The Distillers Journal - Issue 6, Autumn 2022

THE MAGAZINE FOR DISTILLERS AND BLENDERS OF SPIRITS

DISTILLERS

J O U R N A L

AUTUMN 2022 | ISSUE 6 ISSN 2754-0014

THE HENLEY DISTILLERY Distiller on a mission

36 | MOONSHINE IN THE JAR, MONEY IN THE WALLET

44 | BRIGGS ENG ‘WHAT IF’ APPROACH TO DESIGN

54 | RTD COCKTAILS ARE SHAKING THE INDUSTRY

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1/5/2022 9:41:57 AM

DON’T BE AN ARROGANT BAST**D

S

tone Brewing, a San Diego

said: “This is good. Tell you what, make

craft brewer has been

me a case and I’ll pay you.” Suddenly that

sold to Sapporo USA. Why

degree in accounting seemed a lot less

should you care? Trust me,

fun than making beer.

in your mind, replace ‘beer’

A second wave of craft started with

with ‘gin’ and you’ll have a sudden ‘ah-ha’

Colorado’s Blue Moon in 1995. After a trip

moment

to Belgium, this craft brewery set out to

While few realise this, many of you are

capture the style to a ‘T’. Stone Brewing

in the craft distilling business today all

in San Diego followed in 1996 with found-

because of what happened in San Diego

ers Greg Koch and Steve Wagner, but

with craft beer, not because of inspira-

they were after an original taste. Although

tion from any of Diageo’s massive plants.

Stone’s first beer was a light ale, it was

While you might be making classic Lon-

followed by Arrogant Bastard Ale, a very

don dry gin – not Frosties-flavoured stout

hoppy IPA, which started the whole West

or triple-dry-hopped IPAs – what inspired

Coast beer movement; a full-flavoured

craft distillers here to fight archaic distill-

taste which spread everywhere like a

ing laws was what they saw happening

wildfire as craft brewers discovered the

across the Pond and the true potential of

magical flavour potential of hops.

craft.

Although the craft beer movement exist-

If any single beer represented Stone

ed before it took off in San Diego, there

and Koch, it had to be Arrogant Bastard

have been few areas that have seen

for although Koch liked to come across

so much grow in craft, that have chal-

as the Beer Jesus of America – which is

lenged so many preconceived notions

what the Germans called him – there was

of what beer is, and that have shaped

always something a bit arrogant about

the international craft beer – and craft

Koch and Stone, hidden away. But give

distilling industry. Pretty amazing for a

credit where credit is due because it’s

southern Californian city more famous for

easy to see why.

its beaches.

LEADER

Just north of San Diego proper, Stone

distillersjournal.info

Due to a change in US federal laws under

Brewing built a brewery/taproom/bistro

President Ronald Reagan, it suddenly

centre which was like a work of art. Brew-

became legal for hobbyists to brew

ers would go to Stone, marvel at what

beer at home and made it a lot easier to

Koch and Wagner had done, and leave

license small breweries. For example,

inspired like they had seen the Sistine

Boston Beer – maker of Samuel Adams

Chapel.

beer – started in 1984. About this same

It quickly became San Diego’s third

time, young Americans started travelling

largest tourist draw. This is a city with the

to Europe, thanks to cheaper flights, and

world-famous San Diego Zoo, SeaWorld,

experienced beer that was as far-re-

palm tree lined beaches full of surfers

moved from Budweiser as Earth is to

and girls in bikinis, and near-perfect

Alpha Centauri.

weather. This needs repeating: A craft

Coming back to the States, they tried

brewery became the third biggest tourist

replicating with brew kits in their ga-

draw in a city with a greater-population of

rages or college dorm rooms the same

3.3 million, already inundated with tourist

flavours. In a well-worn path used by

attractions.

both craft brewers and distillers, they first

Sure, many people wanted to copy the

started making beer for themselves, then

success of Stone ¬– today there are

for friends, and then finally somebody

around 165 craft breweries in San Diego

AUTUMN 2022

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3

County alone – but Stone was…well…

spouse going to this who wasn’t into

lagers, 53 stouts, 24 pale ales, 20 wheat

Stone. Everything that Stone did, they did

beer; there wasn’t much else in the im-

beers and about 10 other miscellaneous

better than anyone else, from making

mediate surrounding area.

beers coming from San Diego, the rest

beer exciting to the accompanying atti-

Setting their eyes to the US East Coast,

California, the USA, and the world. Yes, it

tude and swagger. Almost like Millwall’s

in 2015, Virginia’s Richmond City Council

has beer from Stone, but it has beer from

chant of “No one likes us, and we don’t

approved $33 million in bonds — and the

a lot of other breweries as well.

care”, Stone was completely unapologet-

state kicked in an additional $5 million

And so, the brewery, which was NEVER

ic about its strong hoppy beers.

— to secure the city as the East Coast

going to be sold, has just been sold for

production headquarters for Stone.

$165 million to Sapporo which I’m guess-

In 2015, Stone’s San Diego rival Ballast

Stone’s part included lease payments to

ing will assume Stone’s debts which,

Point Brewery sold for US$1 billion –

the city for the 12-acre, city-owned site of

again I’m guessing, must be in the ball-

that’s 1 followed by nine 0s. At that point

its Fulton Hill brewery, its own investment

park of $300 million or more. I’m sure in

in time, Stone could have been sold for

of $74 million to build the brewery and a

Koch’s mind, selling to an Asian brewery

even more, but Koch said no-way and

promise to bring at least 288 jobs to the

is not as bad as selling to someone like

no-how: “I will never sell out.”

city.

Molson Coors. The irony is, by selling to

Of the $33 million, $8 million was ear-

Sapporo – or any other large beer com-

But they already were in other ways.

marked for Stone to open a restaurant

pany – Stone can no longer by definition

and beer garden at Richmond Intermedi-

call itself a craft beer.

When you used to go on the Stone tour,

ate Terminal on the James River.

For Sapporo, which bought San Francis-

it took a good 30 minutes or longer.

Whoever gave it was excited; they were

In 2016 Koch announced the formation of

co’s Anchor Steam brewery in 2017 for

enthused. They had the best job in San

True Craft. This was a $100 million com-

$85 million, this will give it another two

Diego, and they knew it.

pany aimed at investing in craft breweries

breweries, including an all-important East

But the last time I went around about

and allowing them to remain independ-

Coast one, allowing it to make Sapporo

three years ago, it barely lasted 15

ent. “Craft beer needs an alternative

beer without shipping costs for that mar-

minutes, the guide was bored to tears,

model to the one that requires founders

ket. According to some, this was the main

and the second you finished, you were

to sell their company in its entirety. In a

interest Sapporo had in the deal.

deposited in a large gift shop for a free

world in which there are constant forces

The Japanese brewery says it will keep

beer. Open the doors and the first thing

towards homogenisation and fitting in,

existing San Diego staff and will continue

you saw were women’s undies with

I specifically want to foster a world of

to make Stone beer – or so they say.

‘Arrogant Bastard’ written across them. In

uniqueness, depth, and character.”

So, back to you. Why should this matter?

so many ways, this seemed wrong [and is no longer being sold].

It all came crashing down. Stone Berlin

Stone became southern California’s larg-

went bankrupt and was bought by

For someone who is in business for

est brewery by volume, which made you

BrewDog. They lost their Napa location

themselves; for someone who is ventur-

wonder how did they sleep at night on

due to non-payment of rent. The hotel,

ing into a business with around 820 rivals

their craft beer pillows? Then they truly

after nearly 10 years of waiting to be built,

– if you’re gin – you need a bit of arro-

started believing their own hype. The

seems like a project Stone hopes all will

gance because no sane person would do

world was their oyster.

forget. While the brewery was built in

this. If you don’t think your craft gin is the

Richmond, the restaurant never opened.

best out there, you probably shouldn’t be

In a move nobody could figure out, Stone

I strongly suspect there are not 288 peo-

distilling.

opened a brewery in Berlin. Not only

ple working at the site.

I think the key is, however, you have to

did Koch decide that the German’s were

What Stone never seemed to realise was

know yourself and what you’re trying to

lacking a good, hoppy West Coast beer,

that the craft brewing industry – which

achieve. Most of all, never believe your

he was even going to chemically dupli-

they helped to create – was rapidly

own hype. The story is when a Roman

cate San Diego water for the brewery to

changing and was not built on consumer

emperor or general would ride a chariot

keep the exact taste. As a San Diegan

loyalty. While American post WWII fa-

in a triumphal parade with thousands and

native, all I can say is that there is a rea-

thers were either Miller or Bud or Schlitz

thousands of cheering people lining the

son why bottled water has been such a

drinkers – much like a Ford car owner

road, a slave would keep whispering into

huge seller for 60-70 years or longer. San

never bought a Chevrolet – those days

their ear: “Memento mori” ¬ – “remember

Diego tap water is pretty putrid.

were gone. With 165 different brewery

you will die.”

Stone opened taprooms around Cali-

beers to choose from – and that’s just if

fornia including one in super-expensive

you want to stay local – Stone coming

Somewhere along the way, Stone forgot

Napa, home of Californian wine. They

out with a new beer was no longer news.

this. Don’t make the same mistake.

were going to drop close to $25 million

Who cared?

on a hotel complex next to their Escon-

In checking today, San Diego’s Big Time

Velo Mitrovich

dido brewery. Pity the poor partner or

Market has in stock 316 different IPAs, 101

Editor

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AUTUMN 2022

DISTILLERS JOURNAL

AUTUMN 2022

CONTENTS

Toasts, not tariffs The US Embassy in London invites 20 US distillers to celebrate the end of destructive tariffs The good, the bad and the engaging If packaging lacks the quality of the product it contains, it creates a real competitive disadvantage Be a Stan with a plan Opening a distillery business is a dream for many – but comes with challenges. How to make a plan for your business

14

17

20

Greater production from new CIP system A Clean in Place system can ultimately enable you to produce a greater, safer daily yield

23

Cover story – The Henley Distillery If ever there is a young distiller to watch, it’s Jacob Wilson. In one year’s time, he’s won awards and blown his five-year-plan out of the water

26

Briggs of Burton The UK’s oldest distilling engineering company explains the challenges in creating a turn-key facility for future unknowns

44

Marketing for you Author and marketing expert Philip Allott explains why marketing isn’t rocket science

51

RTD and the World of Zing Why RTD cocktails have finally come into their own thanks to superior ingredients

54

An edible QR tag fights fraud Fake spirits might become a thing of the past thanks to new research from Purdue University

65

60

MOTH BREAKS THE RULES

When it comes to RTD canned cocktails, MOTH’s insane philosphy makes perfect sense

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AUTUMN 2022

DISTILLERS JOURNAL

CONTACTS Velo Mitrovich Editor velo@rebymedia.com +44 (0)1442 780 591 Rhian Owen Managing Editor rhian@rebymedia.com +1 778 228 8978

36 Making more of your ‘shine How and why a bit of craziness and attitude separates high earning USA moonshine from UK new spirit

68

Hard seltzer in your distillery

If you can make spirits, you can make hard seltzer, giving you another way to bring in punters

32 Ask a bartender Vodka sales are jumping, is it time to give gin a rest?

distillersjournal.info

Josh Henderson Head of sales josh@rebymedia.com +44 (0)1442 780 594 Jon Young Publisher jon@rebymedia.com Reby Media Portlet House 6 Grove Road, Hemel Hempstead, Herts, HP1 1NG, UK

SUBSCRIPTIONS The Distillers Journal is a published four times a year and mailed every January, April, July and October. Subscriptions can be purchased for four issues. Prices for single issue subscriptions or back issues can be obtained by emailing: subscribe@ rebymedia.com

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All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or any information storage or retrieval system, without the express prior written consent of the publisher. The Distillers Journal ISSN 2754-0006 is published quarterly by Reby Media, Portlet House 6 Grove Road, Hemel Hempstead, Hertfordshire, HP1 1NG. Subscription records are maintained at Reby Media, Portlet House 6 Grove Road, Hemel Hempstead, Hertfordshire, HP1 1NG. The Distillers Journal accepts no responsibility for the accuracy of statements or opinion given within the Journal that is not the expressly designated opinion of the Journal or its publishers. Those opinions expressed in areas other than editorial comment may not be taken as being the opinion of the Journal or its staff, and the aforementioned accept no responsibility or liability for actions that arise therefrom.

AUTUMN 2022

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NEWS

ARDBEG RAISES £1M FOR LOCALS

HALF OF IRISH EXPORTS DESTINED FOR THE US

S

This was driven in large part by Irish whis-

New figures compiled by Drinks Ireland show that drinks exports from Ireland to the US were valued at around €619 million (£525m) in 2021. This is just slightly more than half of all Irish spirit exports.

cotland’s Ardbeg Distillery has donated £1 million pounds to the local

key, but Irish cream liqueur is also hugely

community for their “patience” after the world record sale of a single

popular in the US. Irish gin is also carving

malt cask to a mystery collector.

a niche for itself.

Just days earlier, a new record for the most expensive cask of whiskey

Elsewhere, the US was the second big-

sold had been set when a one-of-a-kind 1975 cask of Ardbeg Islay

gest export destination for Irish beer and

single malt Scotch whisky was sold at £16 million to a private collector in Asia.

cider last year, after the UK.

The cask is one of the oldest ever released by Ardbeg Distillery — ‘Cask No. 3’. As

Vincent McGovern, Director of Drinks

a cask, it survived the Distillery’s two brushes with closure and was created during

Ireland|Spirits said: “Irish drinks produc-

a time when little single malt was being created by Ardbeg in the 1970s with the

ers take great pride in creating quality

Distillery being closed through much of the 1980s and ’90s.

products that are renowned the world

The one-of-a-kind release was separated into two different casks’; one Bourbon,

over, and the US is a key destination for

one Oloroso Sherry, and left to mature for 38 years. They were combined in 2014,

our spirits, beer and cider exports, which

with Ardbeg’s director of whisky creation, Dr Bill Lumsden “marrying” them in a refill

is very positive to see. While heavily

ex-Oloroso Sherry butt.

impacted by Covid-19, and particularly

The unnamed collector will receive a total of 440 bottles of single malt from Cask

the global closure of the on-trade (pubs,

No. 3 presented in a unique format. She will receive 88 bottles per year over the

restaurants, hotel bars), exports remained

course of the next five years, giving her a vertical series of 1975 Ardbegs aged for

resilient, and producers are now focused on recovery and further growth.”

PUB NUMBERS FALLING The number of pubs in England and Wales continues to fall, hitting its lowest level on record, according to new research.

There were 39,970 pubs in June, down by more than 7,000 since 2012, said real estate consultancy Altus Group. After struggling through Covid the industry now faced soaring prices and higher energy costs, it warned.

Although the government claims it had 46, 47, 48, 49 and 50 years by 2026. Based on the auction sale, each bottle will be

slashed taxes to help, industry groups

worth £36,364.

have urged it to do more.

Ardbeg CEO Thomas Moradpour said: “This sale is a source of pride for everyone

For the last decade, thousands of pubs

in the Ardbeg community who has made our journey possible. Just 25 years ago,

have closed as younger people drink less

Ardbeg was on the brink of extinction, but today it is one of the most sought-after

and are less attracted to a pub environ-

whiskies in the world. That is a reflection of generations of hard work: from those

ment, supermarkets sell cheaper alcohol,

in the stillhouse who craft our smoky spirit, to the warehouse staff who care for our

and the industry complains of being too

casks over decades, to teams around the world who build the reputation of our

heavily taxed.

whiskies with fans, bartenders and collectors.”

Although in 2019 figures from the Office for National Statistics suggested that

distillersjournal.info

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NEWS the sector was turning a corner, with

What Castletown Mill Distillery should look like after a £4 million refurbishment

expansion for the first time in 10 years, the Covid pandemic then struck, forcing pubs to shut down. When they did reopen, strict social distancing rules were implemented.

According to Altus, 400 pubs in England and Wales closed last year and some 200 shut in the first half of 2022 as inflation started to eat into their profits. That brought the total number of pubs down to its lowest since Altus’s records began in 2005.

Robert Hayton, head of Altus in the UK, said: “Whilst pubs proved remarkably resilient during the pandemic, they’re now facing new headwinds grappling with the cost of doing business in a crisis through soaring energy costs, inflationary

Director Claire Murray said: “We are de-

FBI ages have arrested Casey Alexander

pressures and tax rises.”

lighted to announce the planning permis-

of the UK who handled the money for

The chief executive of UK Hospitali-

sion has been granted. There is clearly

the London-based scheme. Alexander is

ty, Kate Nicholls, said the pub closure

a long way to go yet, namely the small

being charged with conspiring to commit

figures were “truly shocking but will come

issue of a new roof and few windows, but

wire fraud.

as no surprise to many in the industry”.

it is fantastic to have the official go-ahead.

Alexander worked for three companies

“We need the government to take urgent

“We are excited at the prospect of re-

that authorities said carried out the scam:

steps to remove barriers to growth, help

generating this old building and making

Charles Winn LLC, VWC LLC and Wind-

to tackle the cost crisis we’re facing and

it Caithness landmark once again. The

sor Jones LLC. All are based in England.

support more people into work and train-

building has incredible history which we

The companies obtained phone numbers

ing,” she said.

are keen to share along with its future as

for elderly people throughout the country

a whisky distillery.”

and cold-called them. Using fake names

CASTLETOWN MILL WHISKY DISTILLERY APPROVED

Andrea Wise, director of Organic Archi-

and British accents, the callers used

tects, told Scottish Construction: “This

“aggressive and deceptive tactics” on the

is a rare opportunity for a thriving local

calls and promised huge gains if people

business to regenerate this landmark

invested in a cache of rare wines and

building which has been unable to find a

whiskey, like vintage 2017 Craigellachie

user for decades.

Scotch, according to the charges.

“The distillery will be powered by green

Alexander’s name was on the companies’

electricity, making it one of the most sus-

bank accounts and physically cashed

Organic Architects can chalk another one

tainable distilleries in the UK industry.”

checks at a bank. He also cold-called people and made in-person trips to the

up; its plans to transform a 200-yearold mill in Castletown into a destination whisky distillery have been given the green light.

Dunnet Bay Distillers has submitted an application to Highland Council requesting permission to refurbish Castletown Mill and surrounding land, near the company’s headquarters.

WHISKY FRAUDSTERS FLEECE US ELDERLY

United States to make it seem like the businesses were real, according to court records.

When he flew to Cleveland, Ohio, on Tuesday in order to meet with a Cuyahoga County victim, he was arrested.

When some victims wanted to pull their investments, the companies’ representatives either ignored the requests or gave

The restoration and fit-out of the refurbished building could cost up to £4

A rare whisky and wine scheme bilked

excuses, including that the companies

million.

$13 million from elderly across the USA,

were restructuring and they would have

According to Scottish Construction Now,

according to the FBI and reported by

to wait for their money. The representa-

the plans involve a full refurbishment

Cleveland.com.

tives then tried to sell more whiskey and

of the dilapidated listed building, with a

The scheme promised high returns in

wine, promising even higher returns.

view to creating further resources for the

a short of period as three-years and/or

No one who invested ever got money

expanding business, including a visitor

promises of high-end parties for investors

back, the affidavit said.

centre and a whisky distillery.

in Scotland.

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AUTUMN 2022

DISTILLERS JOURNAL

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NEWS

GLEN SCOTIA UNVEILS NEW LOOK Campbeltown distillery, Glen Scotia, has unveiled a series of striking new bottle and packaging designs, as it continues to underline its ambition of being one of the most recognised and sought-after scotch whiskies in the world.

The multi-award-winning brand is renowned for its superior whisky-production capabilities. Earlier this year, it released its oldest and rarest expression to date, an exceptional 46-year-old that spotlighted the outstanding artistry of the distillery team.

Glen Scotia’s 25-year-old was awarded ‘Best in Class’ and therefore the ‘Best

by the coast”.

industrial units in Bayhead, North Uist.

Whisky in The World’ at the San Francis-

According to Tamworth Distilling, the

The redevelopment of Nunton Steadings

co World Spirits Competition 2021, and

whiskey has hints of maple and vanilla

will give the couple the space to build

late last year it was also crowned Scottish

oak and finishes with heavier notes of

on the success of their popular range of

Distillery of the Year at the Scottish Whis-

clove, cinnamon, and allspice.

premium ‘Downpour’ gins. A shop, bar

ky Awards. It is the first time any distillery

Green crabs came on ships from Europe

and tasting room are already set up and

has won both, let alone in the same year.

in the mid-1800s and landed on Cape

operating from Nunton Steadings, which

To celebrate these significant achieve-

Cod. Throughout much of the USA’s east

is proving popular with visitors and local

ments and affirm its ongoing ambitious

coast the saucer-sized crustaceans have

people. Work has begun on lime render-

growth plans, Glen Scotia’s full core

decimated marine ecosystems.

ing on the listed building.

range packaging has been redesigned,

If they are caught when moulting they

Macdonald and Ingledew also intend

as well as the introduction of a new bottle

can be fried whole and eaten like a fa-

on producing a world-class single malt

design for its standard and premium

mous softshell blue crab. Unfortunately,

whisky at the new premises. Using locally

ranges, reinforcing the brand’s premiumi-

it is a bit of a crap-shoot catching them

grown barley, the production and bottling

sation and shelf stand out.

at this stage since they do not seem to

of gin and whisky will be carried out on-

The updated designs represent a sig-

moult all together or during a specific

site. It is expected that six new well-paid

nificant investment for the business as

season. By using the crabs for whiskey,

skilled jobs will be created over the next

it looks to further drive sales and recruit

it’s a way of using hard shell crabs instead

three years.

more consumers from around the world

of dumping them in a landfill.

to experience the exceptional whisky making craftsmanship of Campbeltown.

TEQUILA IN A CARDBOARD BOTTLE

GREEN CRAB WHISKEY

HIE FUNDING FOR NEW DISTILLERY

A US New Hampshire craft distillery,

Highlands and Islands Enterprise (HIE)

cardboard container shaped as a bottle

famed for doing things a bit differently, is

has awarded the owners of North Uist

made from 94 percent recycled material,

using invasive green crabs to flavour its

Distillery £250,000 for the development

has been launched in Europe, starting in

latest creation, reports AP News.

of Nunton Steadings in Benbecula.

the Swedish market. Tequila Buen Vato

In the past, Tamworth Distilling has made

According to the Scottish Construction

said it is on a mission to shake-up the

whiskey with the secretion from beavers’

News, the work will consist of the instal-

drinks industry by investing in sustainable

castor sacs, turkey, and durian.

lation of distilling equipment and building

manufacturing, transportation processes

Despite a pound of crabs being used

adaptation.

and CSR initiatives.

for each bottle of whiskey, the distillery

Owners Jonny Ingledew and Kate Mac-

The bottle is lighter to transport and

claims that the flavour of the crab does

donald have operated the business since

offers major CO2 reduction in comparison

not come through but instead, it tastes

2017 and now employ 10 people. They

to traditional industry methods.

like “the sea breeze on a warm day down

currently produce and bottle gin from

Buen Vato is a product of AliasSmith AB,

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AUTUMN 2022

Buen Vato, the world’s first tequila in a

DISTILLERS JOURNAL

NEWS a company that has invested in and developed Mexican brands in Europe over the last 18 years.

In 2019, it spent almost 1,500 hours reshaping the processes and physical structure of one of its best providers and took part in The Swedish Beverage Industry’s Climate Initiative (DKI) with the goal of reducing the industry’s carbon footprint.

Subsequently, the company decided to invest in projects with the lowest possible negative impact and inspire the industry to do better.

“The drinks industry needs a shake-up, and sustainability needs to be placed at the heart of this transformation. That’s why we’ve launched Buen Vato” said Claes Puebla Smith, AliasSmith CEO. “The cardboard bottle is just the start, Buen Vato will constantly redesign the production, packaging and business model in order to reach perfect sustainability.”

SPIRIT PACKAGING FIRM MAKES MAJOR INVESTMENTS

Part of Herbert Walkers new investment in packaging equipment

EARLIEST BARLEY HARVEST EVER

When you are one of the UK’s premium

experiencing exceptionally high demand

print and packaging companies, you

for our expertise. It’s important to us that

need to stay on top of your game to meet

we maintain high quality standards and

demand. That’s why Herbert Walkers has

a responsive service as we continue to

bought a Signature ELITE 110CS4/6- Au-

grow and this investment is part of that

toSet folding carton gluer, supplied by

commitment.

Lloyds Print Services.

“Our investment in the new Signature

Some farmers in the UK are experiencing

The investment comes as Herbert Walk-

ELITE AutoSet follows the delivery of

their earliest ever barley harvest, with

ers scales up its capabilities in response

our new BOBST foiling machine and two

winter malting barley coming in at what

to a sustained increase in demand from

Xerox Iridesse digital printers last year,

has been budgeted for, according to

across the food and beverage sectors.

reflecting our focus on ensuring we have

Farmers Weekly.

The new machine will operate in addition

the quality machinery required to offer

With the current dry, hot days in July,

to the company’s two existing folding

a rapid turnaround and industry leading

farmers are quickly harvesting as much

and gluing lines and will help to enhance

quality standards across every aspect of

as they can of the Electrum winter barley.

efficiency with much faster make ready

our turnkey print offering.”

Spring barley, however, is not expect-

times and automated saving of complet-

The Signature ELITE AutoSet system is

ed to do as well due to there not being

ed jobs to enable rapid pre-programmed

a market leading folding carton gluer,

enough rain in April. That said, some

re-runs.

which enables set-up of basic cartons in

farmers are reporting that yields should

Herbert Walkers managing director Mike

just two to three minutes. With a speed

be good for Tardis, Planet, Tungsten,

Lammas said: “With so many brands

of 700 metres per minute, it is the fastest

Valerie, Orwell, My Dear, and Laureate

and retailers reshoring their packaging

folding carton gluer on the market and,

varieties. However, in France growers are

requirements to the UK, an increase in

depending on the carton design, it is

experiencing lower yields of barley due

demand for folding box board packag-

capable of producing 225,000 cartons

to heat and a lack of rain. With France

ing across the sector and our enviable

per hour.

supplying 40 percent of Europe’s malted

reputation in the marketplace, we are

distillersjournal.info

barley harvest, prices will rise.

AUTUMN 2022

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13

US TARIFFS

THE YANKS ARE COMING WITH TOASTS, NOT TARIFFS

I

n a celebration held in the US

Secretary of Commerce Gina Raimondo,

Embassy on 5 July, the Distilled

and Ambassador Katherine Tai.

Spirits Council of the US (DISCUS) and the Scotch Whisky Association

The organisation said that American

(SWA) joined together to toast

whiskey and Scotch whisky are deeply

the end of retaliatory tariffs on American

interconnected through bi-lateral

Whiskey and Scotch Whisky in trade

trade, investment flows, and shared

disputes wholly unrelated.

production practices. Important trade

Lifting a glass of spirits were UK spirit and

agreements reached between the US

food writers, along with people involved

and EU in the mid-1990s – which the

in the UK’s pub and restaurant industries.

UK has subsequently carried over – to

To fill those glasses were representatives

eliminate tariffs on most spirits, including

from 20 US distilleries ranging from Jack

Scotch whisky, Bourbon, and Tennessee

Daniels to high-end craft.

whiskey, form the foundation of mutually

Chris Swonger, president and CEO of

beneficial trans-Atlantic trade.

DISCUS, said –while flanked by the UK

Between 1997-2017, when there were

and USA national flags – “Now that the

no tariffs on distilled spirits between the

crippling tariffs have ended, we stand

US and UK, bilateral trade in whiskies

ready to help reset and strengthen the

increased 212 percent (from £380 million

crucial trans-Atlantic trade relationship.

to £1.18 billion). The devastating retaliatory

This enduring partnership is critical

tariffs imposed on single malt Scotch

to accelerating the recovery from the

whisky and the American whiskeys

damaging impact of retaliatory tariffs,

resulted in a 35 percent decrease in

the Covid pandemic, and the increasing

bilateral trade in whisk(e)y between 2018-

pressures on global supply chains.

2021 (from £1.27 billion to £825 million).

“This week we are in London to participate in the Imbibe Live trade show,

“We strongly support efforts by our

and we have a yearlong Cheers! Spirits

governments to further enhance U.S.-

from the USA marketing campaign, under

UK trade through sectoral agreements

which we are hosting The American

and the relaunch of negotiations for a

Whiskey Cocktail Road Trip. Held over the

bilateral U.S.-UK Free Trade Agreement.

next two weeks, this will bring together

We look forward to playing our part in

some of the top bars in London with

growing trade between our two great

special American whiskey cocktails.”

countries and strengthening the special

DISCUS said that securing the return

relationship which exists between the

to zero-for-zero tariffs would not have

US and UK and our world class whiskies,”

been possible without the dedication

says DISCUS.

and strong leadership of UK Secretary

“After four long years, US distillers are

of State for International Trade, Rt. Hon

back to sharing their wonderful whiskeys

Anne-Marie Trevelyan MP and her

with UK consumers without the burden

predecessor Rt. Hon Liz Truss MP, US

of these heavy tariffs,” said Swonger.

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AUTUMN 2022

DISTILLERS JOURNAL

US TARIFFS

distillersjournal.info

AUTUMN 2022

|

15

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COMMENT

PACKAGING

THE GOOD, THE BAD AND THE ENGAGING

FROM HIGH END SPIRITS TO VALUE RANGES AND BEYOND, THEY SAY A PRODUCT IS ONLY AS GOOD AS ITS PACKAGING – SO WHERE DOES THAT LEAVE DISTILLERS AND BRAND OWNERS? IS THIS STILL TRUE TODAY, AND WHAT MESSAGE DOES IT GIVE BRANDS ABOUT THE FUTURE OF LABEL AND PACKAGING DESIGN? CAN BAD PACKAGING MAKE A GOOD PRODUCT… A BAD PRODUCT? STEPHEN SHORTLAND, MANAGING DIRECTOR AT NEW VISION PACKAGING

distillersjournal.info

T

he question of whether spirit packaging can be fully divorced from the product it protects has been a talking point in retail for a long time

and it’s become ever clearer that for consumers, it can’t. The evidence is all around us, we relate a quality packaging experience with a more luxurious spirit product and drinking experience.

In marketing terms, a disconnect between packaging quality and product quality is a big source of cognitive dissonance – a high end, more expensive product with lower quality or more

contents, keeping consumers safe from

mundane packaging can be a big block

spillage and breakage and enhancing

for consumers to overcome.

usability, packaging also has to be e-commerce ready, protect the contents

However, the reverse isn’t necessarily

through many new and varied supply

true – high quality packaging doesn’t

chain routes and back up a brand’s

jar with a more price-point led product.

sustainability strategy.

Instead, it improves the value proposition.

While these factors are all important, we

In short, if packaging lacks the quality of

are at risk of overcomplicating packaging

the product it contains, it creates a real

and its role. Crucially, with so many

competitive disadvantage – at a time

important requirements being placed

where market share has never been

on package design – particularly in the

more important.

high-end beverage sector – we can be

So, can we underpin true, tangible

forgiven if we forget the basics – simply

value through packaging choices? To

standing out from the crowd.

understand the dynamic in today’s retail market and get deeper under the skin,

Sustainability is a great example of this.

we need to look at the trends currently

A responsible supply chain is important

shaping how labels and packaging

for protecting the long-term future of

– both within beverages and within

the environment, and nobody would

the wider food and drink market – are

argue otherwise, but are we going too

designed.

far where packaging is concerned?

Is it pulling focus away from what

Take a look at the landscape of modern

packaging does best? This becomes a

food and drink retailing; there have been

particularly interesting question as the

enormous changes in a very short space

consumer relationship with sustainability

of time. How we choose and purchase

evolves; shoppers are becoming more

products is poles apart from as little

comfortable with environmental terms

as five years ago. As well as protecting

and are also becoming more cynical

AUTUMN 2022

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17

COMMENT

Iconic packaging is all about standout design and making a real impression

about claims. This tends to imply a ‘less is

the Millennial (Gen Y) market is still the

more’ approach could be more effective

predominant spender in the spirit market,

when thinking ‘green’ and developing

closely followed by the maturing Gen

claims on packaging. Iconic packaging

Z market. Every buying generation has

is all about standout design and making

a different relationship to packaging,

an opportunity to support a strong value

a real impression on the consumer in

backing up the assertion that packaging

proposition and enhance consumer

just the blink of an eye. Losing focus

and labels should reflect the needs

perception. Each human finger has

of this important aspect could create a

of their users. Demands and priorities

around 3,000 touch receptors – so why

blander market overall, where creativity

change for consumers as the years pass,

not make the most of them?

is secondary. Ideally, we’d want to see

and so design, functionality, and purpose

a more balanced priority list where

change too.

distillers can make sustainable choices

In summary, packaging isn’t a wholly separate element for consumers – it

without overshadowing aesthetics. We

One of the established trends when

becomes part of the product itself, as

need to pull packaging back to its core

marketing to a Gen Y or Z audience is

important as the beverage inside. This

fundamentals in order to keep pushing

that experience plays an important part

puts a huge emphasis on quality, design

innovation and creativity forwards. To do

of the equation. We are not exclusively

and creativity that cannot be overlooked

this, it’s important that we don’t lose sight

purchasing because of a physiological

or side-lined at the conception stage.

of how and why packaging boosts the

or social need; we are also selecting

Other elements, such as sustainability,

product value proposition and by doing

an experience. Translating this idea to

are of course important, but we cannot

so, protects the long-term future of the

a purchase action, we are buying into

afford to slow on innovation or aesthetics

beverage industry in its own way.

the image of a product as much as

when it’s so fundamental to commercial

the tangible liquid itself. This pulls on

success, and as a result, the growth of

The gin market is a prime example of

many different factors, including brand

the market.

why this approach matters. The market is

iconography and image, alongside price

hyper-competitive and growing at a rapid

point and value and of course, packaging.

We ask a lot of packaging today –

pace. The expanding market is easily

As the first physical touchpoint for a

perhaps too much on occasion. As

accessible for new brands, which gives

consumer, how the product is packed

the saying goes, a ‘jack of all trades’

fantastic opportunity for start-up distillers

and how it feels in the hand provides

becomes a master of none, so why not

but also means consumer choice is

potential customers with immediate

settle back into what packaging does

vast. As a result, gin distillers need to

subliminal information around the brand

best? For distillers, that’s capturing

use every available trick in the book to

narrative and positioning.

attention, securing market share and

stand out and command attention in the

proving that today’s brands are a creative,

market, securing those all-important

The idea of using touch to support brand

innovative and sometimes risk-taking

sales.

messaging isn’t new – in fact it has its

breed.

It’s also important to bear in mind that

own term in ‘haptic marketing’. Again, it’s

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AUTUMN 2022

DISTILLERS JOURNAL

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COMMENT

GROWING YOUR DISTILLING DREAM OPENING A DISTILLERY BUSINESS IS A DREAM FOR MANY – BUT COMES WITH CHALLENGES. ANNE GIGNEY, ONE OF THE FOUNDERS AT THE DISTILLERS INSTITUTE (TDI), WHICH OFFERS THE ONLY DEDICATED DISTILLING BUSINESS COURSE IN AUSTRALIA, EXPLAINS HOW TO MAKE A PLAN FOR YOUR BUSINESS.

W

e get asked a lot

business that people want to create. Any

at The Distillers

of us who have already embarked on the

Institute: “What

vision to create our own distillery know

are the key things

that there is a lot to work through.

I need to think

Once, some time ago, we started to

about when I start my distillery and then

flowchart all the critical decisions needed

again when I am ready to grow?”

to make to start a distillery. When we

It’s a tricky question with an answer

got to decision point 400, we stopped.

that usually comes with a lot of caveats

It’s the complexity of the distilling space

such as, what’s your vision? What size

that makes The Plan so important, and

will you be? What are you planning to

it’s what we focus on in the Planning

make? Where will you be based? What’s

your Successful Distillery course at The

your long-term plan for your distillery

Distillers institute.

business? And when are you planning to grow?

So, to make a Damn Good Plan, you

In short, we usually talk around the hopes

need to know what questions to ask, so

and dreams and come back to a central

that you can pull your plan together. Our

pillar of success for any business and

business guru at TDI, Troy Trewin, says it’s

that’s a ‘Damn Good Plan’. A damn good

critical that you always start with the end

business plan.

in mind – where do you want to end up?

Do you want a nice little distillery where

When we embark on our journey with

you make spirits your mates can enjoy,

potential distillers our hope is that the

or is your goal to export big volumes to

‘Damn Good Plan’ or ‘The Plan’ for short,

multiple markets? Is it a restaurant and

will not only get the vision straight but

bar, or is it to be bought out by a ‘big

also get the new business owner to the

fish’? Or maybe it’s a combination of

start line and then on the journey for

these things?

what comes next. And when growth is on

Getting clear on the vision for your

the cards, there should be a plan for that

distillery is no easy thing. We think

too. We call that our Course Two – or the

it’s a little bit of a chicken and egg

Launching Course.

scenario and so one of the things that

In Australia, getting to the start line is

we encourage our students to do when

getting your licence to distil from the

building their plan is The Road Trip.

Australian Tax Office. It’s an important

We like the idea of a road trip because

milestone, not only because it is

it sounds fun. The reality though is we’re

usually the first piece of officialdom that

talking about doing the critical research

says, “you’re on your way”, but more

to nail down exactly what your business

importantly because it’s what gets them

will look like. Equally, when we’re talking

to the start line in The Plan.

about the road trip, we ask students to

Ah, yes, that plan!

write down what they love about the

The Plan is nothing new. Every business,

places they visit and equally what won’t

everywhere in the world would give the

be relevant to their own distillery.

same advice. Make a great plan and keep

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AUTUMN 2022

your eye on the grand vision while you

The aim of the road trip is research. What

execute The Plan.

will you make? What style of distillery

What’s different with our discussions

will you have? Where will you be based?

about The Plan is its 100 percent

Will you have an integrated business or

relevance to the distillery or spirits

distillery only? Will you make your own

DISTILLERS JOURNAL

COMMENT wash or buy that in? How will you store

a great distilled product you need a

sometimes packed before the owner

casks? Where will your cellar door be?

great distiller. Personnel recruitment

thinks about marketing.

How many staff will you need? What style

and management is one of the biggies

We tend to drive our students a bit nuts

of still will be suitable? And so on….

that comes up when planning and

talking about this ALL THE TIME but it’s

Once our students have embarked on

growing distilleries. The needs will also

true. The Plan needs to include deep

that part of The Plan, we then dive into

be different based on the size, scale, and

thinking about marketing and distribution

the nitty gritty of numbers. How much will

diversity of your business but again, this

channels and all the elements of your

it cost to set up? How much will it cost

all needs to be part of The Plan.

brand including your name, designs,

to run? What other considerations do

Our advice here is always to go with

labels, URLs, social media handles and

you need to think about to make a safe,

the experts, which in our case looks like

everything else you can think of need to

compliant, high-quality distillery?

Australian organisations such as the

be planned for well in advance of your

For those of us who have never loved

Institute of Brewing and Distilling (IBD) or

producing spirit.

spreadsheets, we’ve made it easy –

Wine Spirits Education Trust (WSET) and

at least for the markets we service.

includes safety and compliance training.

We model pricing in our financial

But equally so, in our Launching your

Part of your decision making is who is

planning and to do this distillery owners

Successful Distillery course – our Course

going to make the spirit, are they already

need to understand what the marketing

2, we offer a much deeper and complex

qualified, or will you need to train them,

and distribution costs for their business

model for examining aspects like

or even learn yourself? Everyone in your

are likely to be. The other side of this is

multiple SKUs, export products and all

business should be trained and adding

building enough of a story around your

the other cost considerations you need

this to The Plan, and accounting for

brand that you are bringing people on

to make once you’re thinking outside

growth, is critical.

the journey with you and able to build your following as you get closer to

your local area. The Launching course is geared to people who are ready to fly,

Our final part of The Plan is our favourite

launch.

and it’s a different plan, but it’s still part of

to talk about and that’s marketing and

We love what we do and especially love

The Plan.

distribution. It is super surprising, even

our student success. As we like to say…

What about the technical side of the

among established businesses, that

Be successful, be Stan with a plan.

business? It’s fair to say that to make

products are made, bottled, labelled and

distillersjournal.info

AUTUMN 2022

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21

COMMENT

GREATER PRODUCTION FROM NEW CIP SYSTEM CLEAN IN PLACE SHOULD NOT BE SEEN AS SIMPLY MEETING HYGIENIC STANDARDS, BUT WHEN DESIGNED, MANUFACTURED, AND INSTALLED

BY CIP EXPERTS, IT CAN ENABLE YOUR DISTILLERY TO REMAIN HYGIENIC, BE MORE ENVIRONMENTALLY FRIENDLY WITH LESS WASTAGE AND DOWNTIME, AND ULTIMATELY ENABLING YOU TO PRODUCE A GREATER DAILY YIELD. SYCAMORE PROCESS ENGINEERING REPORTS.

S

ycamore Process

able to fully specify the CIP system. The

Engineering has recently

team of designers worked collaboratively

delivered a three-tank, two-

to ensure that the most efficient cleaning

channel, fully automatic

routes for NBDC were delivered.

Clean in Place (CIP) System

for North British Distillery Company

As part of the design stage and in

(NBDC) at their Edinburgh distillery.

collaboration with Syamore’s automation partners Au2mate and NDBC, a full

NBDC – also known as just NB – is one

Hazard & Operation Study (HAZOP) was

of Scotland’s oldest and largest Scotch

undertaken to verify the safe operation

grain whisky producers, specialising in

and running of the plant. This was

the distillation and maturation of grain

conducted over a seven-day period,

spirit. NBDC has been producing its

where members from the Sycamore

grain spirit since 1887 and is used in

team, Au2mate and Lorien, worked

many well-known brands including The

together to ensure the customer was

Famous Grouse.

satisfied.

Lorien Engineering Solutions was

As with all new systems, health and

appointed Engineering, Procurement

safety needs to be at the forefront,

and Construction Management (EPCM)

especially due to the temperatures of

providers. Lorien Engineering has a

the CIP fluid and the strength of the

strong portfolio of CapEx projects they

chemicals used. For additional protection,

have managed across the food, drinks,

the detergent tank was fitted with two

and brewing sectors. After satisfying a

high-level probes while the return lines

vigorous pre-qualification Sycamore was

have dual conductivity sensors, enabling

invited to tender.

a duty/standby safety feature.

“Sycamore shares Lorien’s ethos of

The mechanical design of the project

collaborative working and successfully

proposed a unique challenge due to

delivered the process element of this

only having a 7m² footprint. However,

multi-faceted project. This coupled with

Lorien Engineering’s design team

a safety-first mentality means I would

worked collectively with NBDC and

have no hesitation in inviting Sycamore to

their structural engineers to design

tender future,” says Nick Jones, brewing

a mezzanine floor located on the

and distillery sector manager, Lorien

supporting framework installed by the

Engineering Solutions.

structural engineers, allowing the CIP set to be housed in the compact footprint.

The project was to deliver a new threetank, two-channel CIP system. This

“The design of the system has enabled

system is used to clean the washbacks,

NBDC to undertake segregated cleaning

distillation columns and other ancillary

of equipment, reducing production

equipment within NBDC’s mash house

downtime, offering increased reliability

more efficiently than the previous CIP set,

and safety improvements throughout

allowing for increased production.

the CIP system,” says Paul Donaldson, project manager, North British Distillery

After Sycamore’s technical sales team

Company.

had provided an accurate costing with a

distillersjournal.info

solution that would provide NBDC with

The manufacture was completed by

efficient cleaning, its design team was

Sycamore’s team of skilled engineers

AUTUMN 2022

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23

COMMENT

in its workshop, who benefit from being

with the general day-to-day maintenance

able to work with the design team.

and gain knowledge of how the

Throughout manufacturing, they were

equipment performs.”

able to incorporate any opportunities for improvement which were noticed when

As part of this project, NBDC also worked

manufacturing the CIP system.

with another one of Sycamore’s partners InTank Technologies Ltd. NBDC has

The team of onsite engineers started the

a large number of 200m³ and 400m³

ingress of equipment in December 2021

fermenters which have been using fixed

ahead of returning in January 2022 to

spray balls that have been used for many

complete the installation. “As part of this

years. With the distillery’s CIP project, it

stage, we were able to be flexible and

was decided to see if anything could be

work with NBDC preferred site installation

done to improve the existing cleaning

contractors to ensure the installation was

performance.

completed on time and to the quality required,” says Sycamore.

A study was completed across the two sizes of fermenters to confirm the

“Understanding our customer’s

optimum cleaning head technology and

needs and ensuring all parties are

the minimum CIP flow rate required to

protected is key, therefore, we provide

satisfactorily and repeatably clean these

a detailed project support package,

fermenters.

Understanding our customer’s needs and ensuring all parties are protected is key,” Sycamore Process Engineering

highlighting critical spare parts for both the commissioning phase and the

“NBDC had previously worked with

aftercare once the project goes live into

Intank solutions to assess the feasibility

production.

to upgrade the cleaning heads on site.

New TJ40G Rotajet from Alfa Laval was

“Further support has been offered

identified as the best option. After an

by utilising our partnership with Alfa

initial trial by NBDC, this indeed proved

Laval as an authorised Integrator. We

to be the case. This upgrade was then

facilitated training for NBDC engineers

rolled out to the rest of the plant,” says

for the hygienic fluid handling equipment

Brynjar Olafsson, project engineer, North

supplied, ensuring they are competent

British Distillery Company.

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DISTILLERS JOURNAL

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HENLEY GIN

THE AMAZING JOURNEY OF HENLEY GIN

AT 27, MASTER DISTILLER AND OWNER JACOB WILSON HAS WON AWARDS WITH THE HENLEY DISTILLERY’S GIN, BLOWN HIS FIVEYEAR BUSINESS PLAN OUT OF THE WATER IN SIX MONTHS, AND IS LIVING THE DISTILLING LIFE THE REST OF US CAN ONLY DREAM ABOUT. SO, AT THIS POINT YOU’RE WONDERING THE SAME AS US, HOW DID HE DO THIS? VELO MITROVICH REPORTS

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AUTUMN 2022

T

he majority of craft gin

with Myalgic Encephalomyelitis (ME),

distillers in the UK have

more commonly known as Chronic

treated the journey as a

Fatigue Syndrome (CFS). While Wilson

second career. They wake

doesn’t shy away from speaking about

up one morning, look in the

it, it’s not something he brings up in

mirror, and see a gin distiller staring back

casual conversation and you might be

at them. They ditch the ties or the heels

wondering why it’s being brought up at

and start thinking about botanicals.

all in this profile.

But, because most are in their 30s, 40s,

Because the effects can be severe –

and even 50s, they’ve seen enough

Wilson was bedridden for over a year

of the business world to realise it’s a

– when or if recovery is made, many with

hard slog in the best of times. With

the illness never take for granted again

maybe house payments, a kid or two in

their body’s energy level. It becomes very

university, and outstanding loans, they

much a case of making haste while the

make like an arched bridge and try to

sun shines, because you do not know

keep one foot in their old world and the

what tomorrow will bring.

other foot in their new world of gin, and at

While the rest of us think nothing

times not succeeding in either.

of wasting time and energy, after

While it’s hard thinking of an exception to

experiencing ME, some make very

this, there happens to be someone who’s

careful, thought-out decisions regarding

located just four miles down the A4155

their energy level reserves, with a

from Henley-on-Thames.

focused view on what needs to be done and acting accordingly.

How well is young Jacob Wilson doing?

“I was looking to kind of find my feet,

The Gin Guide awarded the distillery

I was halfway through a mechanical

three medals in its 2022 awards, winning

engineering degree when I decided

in Traditional Gin, Spiced Gin, and New

to drop the course,” says Wilson. “At

Distillery of the Year.

university I had set up my own little pop-

Except for Scottish whisky distillers, few

up cocktail bar, which is when inspiration

start as young as Wilson, especially in

struck me. I realised that with distilling, I’d

the gin game. While a few might say his

be working to create the perfect blend of

success is all down to luck, most of us

cocktails and alcohol flavours, combining

know you make your own luck.

this with engineering, and working with my hands.”

LEARNING PROCESS

While Wilson did not make like Archimedes and run naked through the

In what will seem like a very strange way

streets, it was truly an eureka moment

to lead into the body of this profile of

for him.

Jacob Wilson and The Henley Distillery, this needs to be mentioned early on to

“I emailed three distilleries that weren’t

understand Wilson and his drive.

hiring, but I liked the look of and wanted

In his mid-teens, Wilson came down

to work for. I sent them a CV and a cover

DISTILLERS JOURNAL

When I found distilling, I knew I loved it” Jacob Wilson

HENLEY

1776 BARN

letter and said: ‘Look, I know you’re not at the moment, but if you do start hiring, I’d love to have a job. Could you just keep

In what is one of the most beautiful

me on file’,” he says. “The first one didn’t

sites Distillers Journal has seen for a gin

reply, the second one did. Two weeks later, I moved from Henley to North Yorkshire and got the job. I was made an assistant distiller at Mason’s Yorkshire Gin and worked my way up from there.”

Wilson says that he very quickly realised that he absolutely loved the industry, and this is what he wanted to do long term. A year into the work, he registered

We wouldn’t be where we are today if this hadn’t happened” Jacob Wilson

the name The Henley Distillery Ltd,

distillery, The Henley Distillery is located about a 10-minute drive from Henley-onThames in an area that looks archetypical of England. Green rolling hills surround the distillery grounds, with the River Thames slowly meandering near-by.

The stills themselves are located inside an old threshing barn, built in 1776. The Henley Distillery uses very traditional, old-school copper alembic stills, which

with the plan being that once he got

“I couldn’t think of better investors, and

are 300 litres apiece and open flame

the experience he needed, he’d return

it means there’s no one else influencing

heated. By the time this goes to print, two

eventually to his hometown and start a

our decisions. It’s been the most amazing

more should be installed.

distillery there.

experience ever.”

While most of us would balk at working

According to Wilson, the plan has

“Both my parents are self-employed

with our fathers, it’s been an excellent

always been to expand the number of

artists. I always knew whatever industry I

experience for Wilson – besides gaining

stills rather than the size of those stills

went into, I wanted to do something for

an investor, he also gained someone with

to maintain the quality and the craft

myself, to build something,” he says. “And

a skill set to build almost anything and

element of what they do, believing

then when I fell into distilling – when I

everything that the distillery needs.

that “expansion should come by

found distilling – I knew I loved it. Since then, this is the goal I’ve been working

multiplication, instead of a change of

PANDEMIC

towards.”

method”.

Stainless steel tanks are used to cut

After four months at Mason’s, Wilson

Some of the work that Wilson had been

the gin down over a two-week period.

was offered the role of head distiller

doing was consultancy for companies

Vacuum fillers are used in the bottling

when his predecessor left. This gave

wanting to launch their own gin, mostly

room for a very clean fill. Every single

him experience working with large scale

through use of a contract distillery. This

bottle is hand numbered and initialled by

production and supply chain issues.

proved to be a blessing when the Covid

the person who labels it.

pandemic knocked his business plan A year later he joined Spirit of Masham

back, part of this being an all-important

“High-tech machinery doesn’t really

distillery as the head distiller, working

visitor centre, which Covid made

come in much, but that’s what defines

on smaller scale and fine-tuning flavour

impossible.

us,” he says. “We see there being a real

combinations. His next role saw him

“We got delayed by the pandemic –

passion for this kind of the craft spirit, and

setting up Hensol Castle Distillery in

unfortunately – but weirdly, we’re kind of

the getting of hands metaphorically dirty,

south Wales, a £3 million state-of-art

a success story because of it since we

as much as possible.”

distillery set up in the basement of the

were forced to redo our business plan.

In talking with Wilson in March, at that

beautiful castle. It was there that he took

And, actually, we wouldn’t be where we

time there were only three employees

on the role of master distiller, overseeing

are today if this hadn’t happened,” he

doing all of this: himself, his father Alan,

all aspects of the distillery’s production,

says.

and his mother Terry. Now the distillery

including training new staff.

has seven employees, including one

At this point he had been working on

“Covid force me to go into an extra year

his business plan for five years. He was

of consultancy, during which time I got

feeling confident about his abilities to

some really great clients who all said,

Much of the production – around 85

produce gin, but there was one major

‘When your distillery is set up, we’ll

percent – is for contract production.

thing holding him back, The Henley

get our products produced by you’.

While Distillers Journal has heard some

Distillery existed only on paper.

That changed our business plan into a

gin distillers spew angrily about contract

Wilson says it was beginning to seem

contract production focus which allowed

work, claiming that this isn’t “true” gin and

more and more like the time to launch.

us to go a little bit bigger when we

it fools consumers, this twisted pretzel

“I sat down with my father, and we

started,” he says.

logic always sounds more like a case of

discussed it and we discussed it as a

With the visitors’ centre having opened

pure envy.

family as a whole, with the possibility of

last month, Wilson says that the business

“It’s what makes the business tick,” says

their investing to keep it within the family

plan has gone full circle to what he

Wilson. “We’re self-funded and the

which they decided to do,” says Wilson.

originally intended.

contract production is, essentially, what

distillersjournal.info

fulltime, who is helping with distilling.

AUTUMN 2022

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29

HENLEY allows us to run as a business.

the distillation, to have the big boost of

craft distillery, you don’t necessarily get

“At the same time, it’s a glorious thing for

orange in the in the gin. Then we layer it

the economies of scale, something those

me as a distiller because I get to make

with a rhubarb syrup that we make from

other distilleries might. Simple things like

such a wide range of spirits. It’s great fun,

scratch. This is added post distillation to

corks and bottles can cost a lot more per

and developing new spirits constantly

get the right balance.”

unit so it’s something that’s very carefully managed.

with different product briefs, and different ideas coming from other people is really

A final gin is Oriental Spice which is a

good. If new product development is not

complex blend of rich spices inspired by

“It’s something that we’re constantly

your favourite part of the job as a distiller,

the Silk Road, using long pepper, cubeb,

cautious of, and we absolutely don’t want

I think you’re doing something wrong.”

fiery ginger, and a hit of lemon zest.

to overprice our gin. We feel it is good value for the price that we sell it at. In

From what Distillers Journal has seen, too, contract work can give a distillery a huge

In the pipeline are gins using different

terms of the quality of the spirit, we are

amount of freedom to experiment and try

neutral bases – such as organic, sugar

constantly looking at whether we can do

new things. If you are solely dependent

beet, and molasses – barrel aging gins,

any better, while bringing down that cost

on your core range for survival,

and venturing into vodkas and rums. With

in the future.”

imagination can be the first thing thrown

both of these, Wilson does not plan on

out the window.

making the base spirit.

THE GINS

“I have aged gin for a client. We did

local and tourist market, Henley is no

Without a big marketing budget, distilleries often must focus on the

an amazing project where we aged in

exception. At a recent farmers’ market

The Henley Distillery’s core gins are a

some Cabernet Sauvignon barrels that

in Henley-on-Thames, Distillers Journal

classic London Dry; Rhubarb & Orange;

were flown over from Chile. It’s certainly

watched Wilson in action. If he has them

and Oriental Spice.

something I can see in the future for

for a second, he tries giving them a taste.

“With the Classic Dry, which we were

Henley Distillery and rum products,” he

If he has them for a minute, he starts

amazed to win the award for seven

says. “When our mainstage gins were

talking up the Gin Experience.

months after opening, this has been a

launched, a base spirit made from grain

labour of love over several years,” says

was best suited, but for possible future

“With 12 miniature stills, we’re running a

Wilson. “I keep numerous little notebooks

editions, I’d like to play around with

three-hour experience to create and distil

for ideas, but in one of them I’ve been

different bases.”

your very own bottle of gin. This comes with a lesson about gin and a tour of the

storing botanicals that I loved playing around with and thought were just that

With the huge competition between

main production distillery.”

little bit different and a little twist on what

gin distilleries, everyone is looking for

And, if Wilson has them for longer than

you’d expect.

an edge, especially for that first sell to

five minutes, he might start mentioning

a customer. Having a unique bottle is

how the distillery site would be a great

“I’ve had this inspiration list, but I had to

definitely one way to get noticed but with

place to have a wedding.

whittle it down because if it was like an

Henley’s…well…it’s hard getting excited

“We’ve very much focused locally to

orchestra, all the instruments would be

about the bottle.

start with – we didn’t start with a massive

trying to play at full volume at the same

According to Wilson, they were very

marketing budget. This year, we’re

time. From that list we ended up with

much of the mind that everything they do

looking to push the boundaries and push

these: The familiar juniper foundation,

goes into the spirit and the drink inside

further out, especially with the award.

citrusy flavours blossoming from orange

the bottle. With that, no corners are cut,

We’ve got a good split between direct

peel, kaffir lime leaves, and lemon

no expenses spared.

to consumer in our distillery and on our

grass; warmth flickers from Szechuan

“But being a self-funded start-up

website, and trade accounts in the local

peppercorns, before mellowing with the

distillery, we thought our money was

area. Pubs, restaurants, shops in the local

deep rich notes of cardamon and vanilla-

better spent on infrastructure and, and

area have been amazingly supportive

like Tonquin beans to create a smooth,

production to start with. As we grow, it’s

with the first distillery in the area for

refined finish.

certainly something that we’ll look to do

something like 270 years, so I feel it has

“The rhubarb and orange is a nod to

in the future.”

been amazing.”

£40 A BOTTLE

With all distilleries, but in particular gin,

my parents who, ever since I got into distilling, were very much into home

there seems to be a moment when those

infusions. With gin, their absolute favourite was rhubarb and orange. When

A question all distilleries go through is

who go on to grow – leaving their kitchen

it came to creating a pink gin – for lack

this: You set a price too high, and you

stills behind – cease seeing themselves

of a better phrase – and to complement

cheat your customers; you set a price too

as a “small” distillery. What is meant

our classic dry, it was a lovely idea to take

low, you cheat yourself. How does any

by this, there are foibles that a small

their concept of rhubarb and orange.

craft gin distillery decide on a price?

craft distillery can get away with, that a

We use fresh hand-peeled orange in

“It’s a really tricky one, because as a small

medium size craft can’t. One day they

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AUTUMN 2022

DISTILLERS JOURNAL

HENLEY

wake up to this fact.

And then, there are those who do.

For example, when London’s Sipsmith started up, the decision was made that

This isn’t to say that life is perfect in the

the best water for gin came from the

world of The Henley Distillery. Supply

head of the Thames, located in the

chain issues are a genuine problem, with

Cotswolds. Whoever drew the short

no clear resolution on the horizon for

straw, made the long trip with a water

Henley or any craft distillery. If the USA

tank once a week to fill it up. It finally

drives the world into another recession,

dawned on them – after doing taste tests

at what point will people start thinking

– there was no difference in flavour using

that Lidl’s Hortus gin range tastes as

London tap water.

good as the premium stuff?

As Henley’s grows, so too will time

With The Henley Distillery, you have to

demands be placed on Wilson. At what

wonder if Wilson ever saw it as being

point between promoting the business,

“small”, even when it was just a business

going to trade fairs, talking to journalists,

plan? The fact that ‘gin’ is not in its name

and dealing with customers and

says a lot for his ambition and goals.

suppliers, will hand bottling seem like

Expansion should come by multiplication, instead of a change of method” Jacob Wilson

driving to Thames Head for water?

Over the years Distillers Journal has met many people who’ve had CFS, with some

But it is genuine challenge to think of

mentally scarred by the experience. Like

anyone who has done so much in such a

with cancer, like with going bankrupt, or

short period of time as he has done. It is

even getting divorced, some people get

going to be a fantastic journey for Jacob

hit by the events of life and never get

Wilson and The Henley Distillery.

back up again.

distillersjournal.info

AUTUMN 2022

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31

ASK THE BARTENDER

ASK A BARTENDER ABOUT: VODKA

IN TRYING TO FIGURE OUT THE NEXT BIG THING, YOU CAN TALK TO DISTILLERS, OR YOU CAN TALK TO THOSE POURING FOR CUSTOMERS, BARTENDERS. PICK A QUIET NIGHT, PULL UP A STOOL, AND FIND OUT WHAT PEOPLE ARE DRINKING.

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AUTUMN 2022

I

s there about to be a shake-up in

every pound spent on spirits. This has

the UK’s spirits industry? Everyone

come at the expense of whisky and gin

from bloggers to trade pundits

While whisky sales have centred to some

are saying that gin’s bubble is

degree on high end or premium spirits,

about to burst, people have hit

it’s bog-standard vodka brands which

the saturation point with the juniper-

are bringing home the loot, accounting

lead spirit, and vodka will be making a

for over 70 percent of sales. No surprise

comeback.

then, Diageo-owned Smirnoff is the world’s leading brand, which sold 26.5

While at Distillers we think there will

million cases last year, experiencing a

be a gin slow-down and a downturn in

15 percent jump in sales. This is despite

the number of gin distilleries, we see

Smirnoff’s PR department having to do

this more being caused by the huge

a quick dance to convince folks it is not

number of ‘average’ gins out there. With

made in Russia.

820 licenced gin distillers, along with at least 80 contract distilleries, with a total

CGA says that over half of vodka sales

combination of at least 2,700 gins out

come from managed on-premise

there for customers to try – not counting

venues, while over 21 percent comes

international imported gins – there is no

from high street pubs. CGA sees slightly

room anymore for an average gin.

over half of all vodka drinkers being

For craft brewers, if they have an

between 18 to 34, people who are willing

outstanding tap room with community

to pay just under six pounds for a spirit

support, they can get away with an

and mixer when out.

average beer – and some with even less.

In Ireland the vodka market is led by

This, however, is a luxury gin distillers

women and young adults. Two thirds

can’t afford. If you can’t offer your

(65%) of vodka drinkers are female, and

customers something better than what

just over half (52%) are aged 34 or under.

the distiller down the road is bottling, it’s

A third of vodka consumers drink it in

time to have a serious re-think as to what

cocktails, and cola (44%), lemonade (27%)

you’re doing.

and energy drinks (19%) with these being the three most popular mixers.

But what we do see is a growth – and

A third (33%) of consumers now drink

opportunities – in vodka.

flavoured vodka, with raspberry (34%),

In the States, vodka was previously

vanilla (29%) and lemon (26%) the three

defined as “without distinctive character,

top varieties, says Sian Brennan, CGA

aroma, taste, or colour,” by the Alcohol

client director, Ireland.

and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB), but both the attitude towards the

In the States, an ever-increasing push for

spirit and its definition by the TTB have

premiumization has occurred across the

been updated. Like here in the UK, many

spirits industry, but vodka, more than any

bartenders are now rediscovering and

other category. Vodka brands saw a drop

embracing the spirit, as are consumers

off in sales of cheaper price segments in

as they return to pubs and restaurants.

2021 compared to gains in the premium

According to international data and on-

categories, according to the Distilled

premises insight consultancy firm CGA,

Spirits Council of the United States

vodka sales have increased this summer

(DISCUS), losing 1.68 million nine-litre

by nearly 25 percent over pre-Covid-19

cases of sales in the lowest price tiers,

sales and accounts for about £0.30 in

while gaining 3.6 million cases in the

DISTILLERS JOURNAL

ASK THE BARTENDER

COSMOPOLITAN

highest two tiers.

Chile and California Citrus vodkas, for

This is believed to be in part because US

instance, with the former being deployed

consumers are willing to splash out and,

in Mules and Bloody Marys, and the latter

indeed, feel the need to treat themselves

in martinis.

The last customers are gone, you’re

after two long years of Covid.

For those wondering about the impact

cleaning up, and you make yourself a

of the Russian vodka boycott, award-

drink. Carl, what vodka cocktail would

At a recent US spirits evening at London’s

winning bartender, mixologist and TV

you make for yourself?

US Embassy, St George Spirits’ head

drink’s expert Carl Anthony Brown, tells

distiller, Dave Smith, told Distillers

Distillers: “It’s clearly a delicate subject

Cosmopolitan – not the ruby red,

Journal that vodka drinkers tend to have

at the moment, but I’d like to think that it

cranberry heavy, Carrie Bradshaw

their preferred call and are often less

won’t make any difference at all. The best

one!

interested in exploring other brands.

vodkas are Polish anyway!”

50ml Citron Vodka (Finlandia/Wy-

“They need to have a significant reason to go outside of their comfort zone.

brova)

TURN AWAY FROM PREMIUM

Naturally-made, premium flavoured

20ml Cointreau or CROSSIP Fresh 20ml Lime Juice

vodkas are one of the few ways we can

Here in the UK, it’s the opposite from the

15ml Cranberry

connect with that person.” St. George

USA and vodka drinkers are turning away

Shake Strain flash orange

has seen great success with its Green

from premium and ultra-premium vodka

distillersjournal.info

AUTUMN 2022

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33

ASK THE BARTENDER spirits. This is making some consumers

In speaking about flavours, for a while

rethink brands such as Grey Goose,

distillers making flavoured vodkas

wondering if these spirits are average at

seemed to revel in pushing the

best, only exceeding at how they market

boundaries – cotton-candy and bubble

themselves.

gum spring to immediately to mind. Are these days gone for good?

“I wouldn’t want to pass negative judgement on any brands. But yes, some

“We can only hope so.”

have been marketed very, very well,” says

That said, other flavours such as Green

Brown. “People consider them premium,

Chile and Citrus vodkas continue to

etc, but in reality, they are no better – if

do well. We asked Brown if when he is

not worse – than some of the smaller/

behind a bar, what would make him grab

less well-known brands,” adding that his

a flavoured vodka?

go-to vodka is Reyka.

“I’ve always made my own I’m afraid. The classic add-the-flavour-you-want to the

In a rethink of gin, some distillers are

vodka, stick it in the dishwasher to infuse,

now looking at gin as not just something

and ‘hey-presto’, you have a flavour to

to splash into tonic water, but a spirit

use,” he says.

that can be drunk neat. They are seeing if using a different base spirit lead

That said, he sees big changes in how

ingredient – such as sugar beets instead

flavoured vodkas get their flavour.

of grain – can add more flavour to the

“I see a lot more focus on raw ingredients

gin, giving it different opportunities.

and process-tapping into the interest

In talking with some distillers, however,

in sustainability, provenance, and

they question if drinkers will be able to

ingredients. I see more left-field

tell the difference in flavour. Distillers

flavourings – almost becoming botanical

asked Brown if, based on his experience,

vodkas or alternative gins. Focusing on

can drinkers tell the difference if the

real flavours not just essences. Advocacy,

alcohol in vodka comes from grain or

education and breaking classic

potatoes?

perceptions. And, embracing the nuance

Carl Anthony Brown, is an awardwinning bartender, mixologist and TV drink’s expert. Some of Carl’s accolades include winner of ‘The Young British Foodies’, IMBIBE ‘Drinks List of the Year and many more. He’s worked for 18 years in the bar and drinks industry, including creating the drinks concept across the Dishoom group. His latest venture has been launching the alcohol-free spirit, Crossip in 2020.

He is best described as a man who is seldom without an opinion.

and not just the ‘cleanness’.

“Most definitely yes, very much so,” says Brown. “Many moons ago a brand called

With around 900 gin distilleries in the UK,

Vestle actually took ‘vintages’ of potatoes

do you think drinkers will say ‘enough is

and compared them on flavour. It. Was.

enough’ and shift back to vodka?

Amazing. They were totally different!”

“Consumers will be the challengers and

With gin, many drinkers stumble trying

will always explore. A certain amount of

to think of a drink pass gin and tonic.

fatigue has set in, but the growth in gin

However, with vodka, there is an appeal

has also created a thirst – excuse the

because consumers are familiar with

pun – for knowledge. This means the

vodka cocktail names thanks to TV

consumers are open and confident with

shows or movies.

their choices.

“Vodka became the number one

“In general, I think it has helped the way

category in the world in the 1950s,” says

people approach and drink spirits so the

Brown. “This was because of post-war

passive growth will always be there, and

economic depression; vodka was cheap

vodka will benefit. Gin and vodka are very

to make and buy. But it wasn’t a bad or

different beasts and arguably it’s easier

boring tasting drink because you could

to be a great gin producer than great

also manipulate the flavour and it quickly

vodka producer, especially in the ‘craft’

became number one. TV and movies

world,” says Brown. “More of a ‘benefit

will always influence, and this didn’t hurt

from’ rather than ‘enough is enough’. Gin

vodka, like the resurgence of the Old

will eat itself a little bit and the best, most

Fashion when Mad Men came out. James

supported will be left standing. A little

Bond drinks vodka martinis and vodka

bit like vodka in the 90s. Quality always

becomes cool.”

shines through.”

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AUTUMN 2022

DISTILLERS JOURNAL

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TRENDING

PUTTING THE ‘SHINE’ IN BLIGHTY

WORLDWIDE, EVERY SINGLE CULTURE THAT DRINKS ALCOHOL, HAS AN ILLEGAL STREAM OF PRODUCERS MAKING HIGH-PROOF BOOZE THAT IS WAY OFF THE RADAR OF AUTHORITIES – AS IF THEY’RE MAKING IT UNDER THE LIGHT ON THE MOON. HOWEVER, IN THE STATES CRAFT AND BIG WHISKEY DISTILLERS ARE JUMPING ON THE LEGAL MOONSHINE BANDWAGON AND MAKING PROFITS BIG ENOUGH TO HAVE BOOTLEGGERS SPINNING IN THEIR GRAVES. VELO MITROVICH REPORTS

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A

trail that is becoming very

you really want to be surrounded by

well-worn with UK craft

incriminating barrels of your spirit? Aging

whisky distillers is, while

moonshine in an oak cask was about as

the first barrels of whisky

far from a Scottish moonshiner’s mind as

are aging, the distillery

trying to sell it on the high street.

starts making gin to keep the business

According to The Scotsman, by the 1820s,

afloat. But some, along with producing

as many as 14,000 illicit stills were being

gin, are selling new make spirit – whisky

confiscated every year in Scotland. This

that hasn’t been aged.

couldn’t have been making much of a

And, indeed, a few UK distilleries such as

dent, however, for more than half of the

Johnnie Walker, Holyrood, and Cotswold

whisky consumed in Scotland was being

make it as part of the regular line-up. But

enjoyed without the taxman taking his

these are just side project, there doesn’t

cut.

seem to be a huge amount of interest from UK consumers to justify treating

Glenlivet’s founder George Smith was

new make spirits any other way.

among those who start to whisky began with producing illicit whisky at his farm

Across the Pond, however, it’s a different

at Upper Drummin. After the passing of

story. Selling under ‘moonshine’ or white

the Excise Act in 1823, he was the first

whiskey’, it’s huge. How huge? The US

person in Scotland to apply for a licence

distillery which leads all others in visitor

to legally produce spirit. This decision

numbers is one in Tennessee making

was unpopular with other whisky-making

flavoured moonshine.

farmers and Smith was given two pistols

No aging; no storing casks; no worries

to protect his family and his new legal

about greedy angels, it does sound

distillery.

tempting to make. And, if you are already

In Scotland, making illegal whisky gave

making whisky, you already have the

farmers a way of using a surplus grain

equipment and skill. Ingredients? Same

for a product that oftentimes was worth

as whisky; so, what are they doing

much more than they would receive from

different over there to bring in the huge

the actual grain. During periods of major

sales? It boils down to one word: Attitude

Scottish immigration to the American

spelled with a capital ‘A’.

colonies and then to the fledgling United States, these farmers brought with them

So, what exactly is moonshine?

the skill to make whisky along with the tradition of doing it illegally and a distain

Traditionally, moonshine is any spirit

for those who enforce laws against the

made without knowledge of tax

practice.

collectors. In 99 percent of the time, besides being untaxed, it is also unaged.

In looking at ethnic immigration maps

You’re doing something illegal; do

from 1700 to 1800, the Scots mostly

DISTILLERS JOURNAL

Former West Virginia moonshiner John Bowman explains the workings of a still at the American Folklife Center

LEMON LIME­INFUSED MOONSHINE

SPEAKEASY

u 2 small fresh lemons, peeled and cut into wedges (or omit

This lemony moonshine cocktail has all the style and flare

for just Lime-Infused Moonshine)

you’ll need to bring the carefree, party-the-night away attitude

u 2 small fresh limes, peeled and cut into wedges (or omit for

of the speakeasy to your next happy hour.

just Lemon-Infused Moonshine) u 3 cups unflavored moonshine

u 3 cups lemon-infused moonshine u ¾ cup freshly squeezed lemon juice

Using a 1-quart jar, add the lemon and lime wedges and light-

u ¾cup sugar

ly muddle. Pour in the moonshine. Seal the jar with a lid. Shake

u 4 to 6 lemon wedges (for garnishing)

the mixture. Let sit for three days to one week, shaking once or twice a day. Using a sieve or coffee filter, strain the lemon

In a shaker filled with ice, combine all the ingredients, except

lime­infused moonshine into a new 1-quart jar. Serve immedi-

the lemon wedges. Shake well to combine. Strain into Mason

ately or cover and store in freezer for up to one month.

jars and garnish with the lemon wedges.

Yields approximately three cups.

Yields four to six cocktails..

distillersjournal.info

AUTUMN 2022

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37

The start of Prohibition in the USA brought moonshine into a new light

Prohibition ending in 1933 did not end moonshine’s realm

MOONSHINE

COTSWOLDS MAKES ‘SHINE’ In 2020 to mark the 100th anniversary of the start of Prohibition in the United States, Cotswolds Distillery released White Pheasant New Make Spirt, which was awarded Best English New Make at the World Whiskies Awards 2020.

While still commonly marketed as moonshine, whisky pre-maturation has a plethora of nicknames; commonly known as new make spirit in the UK; other names include white whisky, white dog, and white lightning to name but a few.

Made simply by fermenting and distilling grain, water and yeast,

White Pheasant begins its journey the same way as Cotswolds’

each new make spirit is truly unique. The type of grain, fermen-

single malt whiskies – with 100 percent locally grown,

tation process, shape of the still and distillation cut points all

floor-malted barley. After the malted barley has been milled

have an influence on the flavour of the spirit, and while most are

and mixed with hot water in the mash tun, the sugary liquid is

completely clear, some may show slight colour due to a very

fermented with two different strains of dried yeast in steel wash-

short period of maturation.

backs for over 90 hours.

As previously mentioned, unaged whisky has historically been

According to Cotswolds, this unusually long fermentation

regarded as impure and lacking the flavour and complexity of

generates plenty of fruity flavour compounds which brings a

a fully matured whisky. Thanks to the burgeoning craft cocktail

fantastic fruity complexity to its new make spirit. Bottled at 63.5%

scene and curious whisky aficionados, however, new make

ABV, Cotswold says its White Pheasant is remarkably “quaffable”

spirits have become increasingly popular, with distilleries across

when enjoyed neat, delivering a series of flavours including

the world releasing their very own whiskies-in-waiting.

tropical fruit notes of banana and pear drops, toasted oats and

In keeping with the tradition of naming the colourless spir-

barley sugars.

it, Cotswolds named its ‘White Pheasant’ after the beautiful,

The distillery believes that White Pheasant is worth trying if con-

long-tailed gamebirds that roam the fields and roads of the

sumers are keen to sample its whisky before it goes into cask,

Cotswolds. Previously only available to sample on tour and

or if they’re looking for an alternative spirit on which to build

tastings in its cask warehouse, the distillery decided to make it

superior cocktails. It demonstrates just how refined an unaged

available to purchase exclusively in its shops and on its website.

whisky spirit can be.

to levy a tax that would impact citizens in

Although Hollywood and TV might

all states.

portray the making of moonshine in the USA as something only ‘redneck,

Small farmers in the backwoods and hills

good old boys’ do, in reality all poor

of western Pennsylvania distilled and

communities in the States had someone

consumed whiskey which was easier to transport and sell than the grain that was its source. Moonshine became an informal currency, a means of livelihood, and an enlivener of a harsh existence – much like in the Scottish Highlands. The distillers resisted the tax by attacking – often tarring and feathering – federal Author John Schlimm

revenue officers who attempted to collect it.

settled in the Appalachian Mountain

After several years of this unrest, 500

regions of Tennessee, North Carolina,

distillers broke out in an organised

Virginia – especially in regions that

rebellion against the US government –

would later become West Virginia – and

probably fuelled by their own product.

Kentucky. All states which became

The government sent in the army and

famous for moonshine.

the rebellion disappeared away without

The Whiskey Rebellion of 1794 was the

a shot being fired. While the tax was

first test of federal authority in the United

then imposed, the illegal making of

States. This rebellion enforced the idea

moonshine did not end.

that the new government had the right

distillersjournal.info

AUTUMN 2022

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39

MOONSHINE

I think any oldtime moonshineloving drinker would say yes, they love the taste. They love the burn. But ultimately, it’s that amazing feeling you get,” John Schlimm

Left top: Old Smoky’s moonshine shows the potential Left bottom: RTD moonshine. Who would have ever imagined?

making a type of moonshine to supply

do with a bottle – or mason jar – of the

In the long history of distilling, aging

their community with cheap booze.

potent elixir, look no further than John

spirits is a relatively new idea that

Indeed, the author’s grandfather made

Schlimm’s ‘Moonshine: A Celebration of

occurred when people noticed that the

moonshine in a chicken coop in San

America’s Original Rebel Spirit’. Distillers

longer a spirit was stored in an oak cast,

Diego during Prohibition with grapes

Journal recently spoke to the Harvard

the better it tasted. But, with moonshine,

leftover from his illegal wine making. It

graduate from his home in western

there has never been an aging process.

was only until my father – then a young

Pennsylvania.

While leaves you wondering if anyone ever thought it was a fine tasting drink or

boy – failed to keep a check on the still’s pressure and it exploded, that my

“I think American moonshine stands out

was the whole reason behind it was to

grandfather’s side business came to an

because of the incredible history and

just to get drunk?

end. Truth be told, the explosion didn’t do

mythology that has been built up around

“I don’t even know if today someone

the chickens any favours either.

it. Literally, from the beginning of the

would necessarily say it’s a fine tasting

United States – and even before that –

drink in its purest form; it’s all about that

But no matter which community, there

all the way to present day, moonshine

first sip and that amazing burn down

was – and still is – a sense of rebellion

has run parallel to our history,” says

your throat which is so incredible,”

with spirits made by the light of the

Schlimm. “It’s been with us; it’s intimately

says Schlimm. “I think any old-time

moon.

woven throughout our history – more so

moonshine-loving drinker would say yes,

than any other alcoholic beverage, And

they love the taste. They love the burn.

of course, it’s a rebel; it’s the ultimate

But ultimately, it’s that amazing feeling

outlaw. That has certainly helped to

you get.”

If you have ever wondered more about

boost its reputation and really transform it

If you’re wondering if it tastes more

the history of moonshine and what to

into an icon that is unparalleled.”

like vodka than bourbon whiskey, you

HISTORY AND COCKTAILS

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DISTILLERS JOURNAL

MOONSHINE

THE DOWNSIDE OF MOONSHINE

ditions, eat rotten food, and die by drinking poisonous liquor.”

More recently in June, 21 teens were found dead in a tavern in

Illegal moonshine and all its forms around the world have a

South Africa. All were found to have methanol in their bodies.

reputation of being a cheap potent drink and a dangerous one

The teenagers died at the Enyobeni tavern in East London’s

as well which can lead to blindness, liver damage, and death.

Scenery Park township in the early hours of June 26, shocking

While there have been a few cases of illegally made vodka in

the country and resulting in several investigations by the police

the UK causing illness and deaths in eastern European com-

and liquor license authorities.

munities, it remains a large problem in India, Pakistan, South

Many of the teens, ranging in age between 13 and 17, were

Africa, and Indonesia. For example, more than 120 people died

found dead in the tavern, their bodies slumped across tables

in western India in 2009. The victims in Gujarat state were mostly

and couches and collapsed on the dance floor, according to

labourers who had purchased small plastic pouches of illegally

officials.

brewed moonshine for as little as 2p each.

The reason why moonshine has a bigger problem with meth-

Within hours of drinking the brew, the victims began exhibiting

anol than commercial distillers of spirits has nothing to do with

symptoms of poisoning including severe stomach cramps,

the fact that it’s not aged and fresh off the still. But, instead,

vomiting, and blurred vision. Within days 122 people died and

due to greed or lack of knowledge, illegal distillers do not

nearly 200 more were hospitalized.

understand – or care – about how distilling temperature effects

“The drink was pure poison,” says Abhay Chudasama, a senior

alcohol.

police officer in the state capital Ahmedabad.

While methanol is found naturally in certain fruits and vegeta-

According to Indian police and health workers, poisoning arises

bles, it is an unintended by-product during the fermentation

when home brewers try to up the potency by mixing in chem-

process. Spirits distilled from fruits, such as apples, grapes, and

icals like methanol – called commonly wood alcohol – and

oranges are more likely to contain methanol – such as grappa,

in some cases battery acid. Contaminated water and rotting

brandy, and raki – than spirits made from grain.

vegetables – added to speed up fermentation – can result in a

If wine and beer contain methanol, why aren’t they ever consid-

fatal drink.

ered a risk? It is all in the concentration of methanol in distilled

Cases of poisoning are quite common and a real danger. One

spirits.

of the most common places where this happens is at wedding

The boiling point of methanol is 64.7 C – as opposed to 78.37 C

parties. According to Maxwell Pereira, a former joint commis-

for ethanol – so distillers will discard or find another use for the

sioner of the Delhi police, most arrested bootleggers find it easy

first point (the head) of a boil. An unscrupulous or unknowledge-

to get release orders from lower courts and quickly go back to

able distiller won’t and use it in the final product.

making illegal hootch.

This unfortunate history is the biggest obstacle modern day

“It is a shame,” says Pereira. “Poor Indians live in unhygienic con-

producers have in selling legit moonshine.

wouldn’t be too far off.

BOOTLEGGERS

something, it’s the surest way to make sure they’re going to do it. When the

“I would say it stands alone, due to its flavour. But if I had to say which of those

In the USA, while moonshine was

United States government outlawed

is maybe a cousin – a close cousin – it

always there in the background, it went

alcohol, it became a total boom for all the

would be vodka. The beauty of both

to the forefront during US Prohibition

outlaw moonshiners out there to make it,”

vodka and moonshine is they are really

which led to the first golden age of

says Schlimm. “Demand grew even more,

great bases and foundations for cocktails

American moonshiners from 1920 to

because, again, people were told you

from which you can create pure magic,”

1933. While in theory illegal booze could

couldn’t have it. So, for those budding

says Schlimm.

be made pretty much anywhere – and

entrepreneurs out there at the time,

probably was – it was in the Appalachian

who were rebels themselves, it was an

One thing which made US moonshine

Mountains where moonshine really took

amazing time. And it really did become

stand out from others was the use of

off. Cutting through 13 states, parts of the

that first golden age that planted a lot of

Indian maze, corn. The native American

region are dirt poor today and were dirt

the seeds of the mythology around what

grain is high in sugars, making it ideal for

poor back then. Moonshine gave these

we think of moonshine is today.”

fermentation and is used today in sour

rural farmers – many of Scottish heritage

mash bourbons, Tennessee whiskey,

– a way to make money, while being

So, at this point we have moonshine

other US spirits, along with fuel for cars.

relatively close to big markets such as

being made but we need a way to get

According to Schlimm, George Thorpe

Chicago, New York City, Atlantic City, and

it to market. Thus began the hot-rod

in 1620 was the first in the New World

Washington D.C.

bootleggers – or so Hollywood would like us to believe. Did American NASCAR

to make a distilled spirit using just corn, yeast, and water. Amazingly, the recipe

“The ultimate lesson is, when you

racing really come from bootleggers

hasn’t change since then.

tell people they’re not allowed to do

trying to outrun Johnny-Be-Law or is this

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AUTUMN 2022

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41

MOONSHINE just a good story?

making it available in new ways to even

“No, it is the truth. And it’s one of the

more people, which is what moonshine

most incredible parts of moonshine

has always been about.”

story that this icon in the beverage world gave birth to an icon in the sports world being NASCAR,” says Schlimm. “The makers of moonshine needed a way to get their hootch to the speakeasies and other establishments. So, they would use bootleggers in their hot-rod cars, to race through the mountains, often with the authorities in hot pursuit of them.

“They developed a little bit of an ego which tends to happen. They decided to take that ego and take the amazing driving skills they had developed to local

The appeal is the fact that moonshine really is this iconic, fabulous, outlaw rebel that has this great history” John Schlimm

WHAT TO DO WITH ‘SHINE While it is clearly evident that Schlimm thoroughly enjoyed researching the history of moonshine, you have to suspect that it was the second half of the book which he really enjoyed creating.

In this large section are recipes using moonshine as the key ingredient, and all are recipes that Schlimm created.

“I did come up with the recipes. I did try all the recipes, and I had a lot of fun. And I

fields where the first car racetracks were

certainly didn’t have to look far for willing

created. As that went on and it became

volunteers to help taste test. So that was

more sophisticated over time, some

a really great and fun process,” he says.

entrepreneurs came in and realised, ‘Hey,

all of Scotland’s distilleries combined.

“Moonshine becomes the base; it

there is an amazing spark of a business

Besides Old Smoky, there are numerous

becomes the fire of that recipe. And then

here’. And eventually that turned into

craft moonshine distilleries, and all the

it’s really about what you mix and match

what we know as NASCAR.”

big US whiskey distilleries seem to have

in with it. In the first part of the cocktail

at least one – or more – white whiskies.

section, I do a lot of different infusions.

MODERN ‘SHINE’

I really thought outside of the box so “I think the appeal is the fact that

there are infusions using sage and basil

Prohibition ended in 1937 but restricted

moonshine really is this iconic, fabulous,

and cucumbers, but also jellybeans,

laws against moonshine remained on

outlaw rebel that has this great history,

marshmallows, and even gummy

the federal books until 2010 for reasons

both here in the United States, and now

candies.

which are less than clear. But the fact that

elsewhere around the world. In terms

moonshiners were adding everything

of the world of alcohol, it’s one of the

“I wanted this book to be a very definitive

from unadulterated alcohol to battery

ultimate celebrities,” says Schlimm.

book for anyone who loves moonshine,

acid (fact) to ramp-up their spirit’s kick did

While some distilleries bottle their

but anyone who also just loves history as

not help.

moonshine in traditional Mason jars and

well as the history of alcohol. So, I tried to

Those days are over, however, and

really try to play up ‘Made in a holler

create the most beautiful book I could. I

there is truly a renaissance of premium

over yonder’ marketing, Jack Daniels,

knew the first half would be history told

moonshine – or white whisky – being

Jim Beam, and other big players sell it

in a fun way, and in a way that someone

made, leading to another golden age

as white whiskey and there is nothing

could really sit down in an afternoon

of the spirit. What defines this modern

hillbilly about it. Distillers Journal asks

or two and easily read through it with

moonshine is the purity of the drink –

Schlimm if he’s surprised by this?

pictures, because we all love pictures.

flavours which are helping it appeal

“No, not at all. I think that’s good

“But for that second part with the

to new drinkers. For the purist, there

business. I think you’ve got to continually

cocktails and the infusions, I really

remains 50% ABV shots to knockback; for

be taking steps forward and rethinking

wanted there to be something for

others there is a range of flavours from

and reimagining and reinventing. That’s

everyone there. And I wanted people to

apple pie to butterscotch. Regardless

the great entrepreneurial spirit that the

ultimately have fun with those recipes.

of your drinking pleasure, it has turned

moonshiners always have had, those

And you know, there are going to be

into a huge business and there is a

farmers way back when and others in

people who liked some of the recipes

moonshine for you.

the backwoods and hollers, that made

and don’t like other recipes. That’s

the moonshine first and foremost, they

the beauty of sampling and trying all

Tennessee’s Old Smoky Distilleries, the

were smart entrepreneurs. Not only did

the different recipes. So ultimately, I

world’s largest producers of moonshine,

they know what tasted good, but they

wanted to create a party in a book,” says

is the most visited distillery in the world,

knew how to do business in an amazing

Schlimm.

with 5.7 million visitors last year. That’s

way. So, I think the companies you just

more than Jack Daniels, Buffalo Trace,

named, as well as others, they’re just

and is twice the number of visitors to

carrying on that spirit and tradition,

corn, yeast, and water – but along with

42

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AUTUMN 2022

DISTILLERS JOURNAL

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DESIGN & BUILD

DESIGN FOR THE FUTURE T SPIRIT CONSUMPTION AROUND THE WORLD CONTINUES TO GROW, AND AS IT DOES, CUSTOMERS ARE DEMANDING MORE FROM THE SPIRIT INDUSTRY. GREEN CREDENTIALS AND SUSTAINABILITY PLATFORMS HAVE GROWN IN IMPORTANCE AS MUCH AS QUALITY AND FLAVOUR. BRIGGS OF BURTON’S SCOTT DAVIES TALKS TO RHIAN OWEN ABOUT THE MAJOR ISSUES AND CHALLENGES FACING THE INDUSTRY TODAY

44

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AUTUMN 2022

o most consumers and fans,

automation and control and chemical

today’s distilling industry

engineers to design and build systems.

seems like it has changed

Recently the Briggs’ team has been busy

very little in the last three-

working on a major tequila distillery in

hundred years. But, for

Jalisco, Mexico.

one thing, today’s customers and their

choices are certainly keeping the industry

“Our involvement has been the design

on its toes.

and engineering to take the agave, put in

A shift towards a growing interest in

all the steps and processes and control

holistic wellbeing, health, and the

systems to then ensure that agave is

environment, has undoubtedly been

processed, whether it be fermented or

changing the landscape. Now, with the

distilled, and exits that process in a filled

rise in fuel and raw material prices, the

bottle ready for shipment,” says Davies.

industry must wonder, will they be able

“So, we’re not necessarily interfacing

to meet their customers’ demands, while

with the farmers nor with the shippers

maintaining a healthy bottom line?

of those glass bottles, but we really sit in bridging that piece from taking a raw

PARTNERING UP

material and turning it into a spirit, a whole variety of scales and for a range

The world’s oldest and number one

of spirits around the world. And that’s

distilling and brewing design and

definitely the excitement of the team;

engineering company, Briggs of Burton,

working with a variety of spirit types and

has been aiding distillers reach their and

the challenge that different geographies

their customers’ goal since 1732. The

present.”

company has worked with Beam Suntory, Diageo, Pernod Ricard, Jose Cuervo,

THE TEQUILA ASCENSION

Loch Lomond and numerous other spirit and beer companies on every continent

According to Statista, in 2021, Mexico

except for Antarctica. Recent and on-

produced 527 million litres of tequila,

going major turn-key projects have been

the highest volume recorded since

in China, Scotland, England, Mexico, and

1995. Within two and a half decades,

the USA.

production of this tequila increased

Briggs of Burton are referred to as a

by approximately 405 percent, with a

‘process engineering company’. Scott

difference of 153 million litres between

Davies of Briggs says this means they

2020 and 2021.

focus on the end-to-end manufacturing

Made from the blue agave plant, tequila

of a product: “It’s a one stop shop for a

has “denomination of origin” protection

distillery project whether that’s a copper

and can only be legally produced in

pot still, tank farm expansion, or new

certain municipalities in Mexico. The main

greenfield distillery,” says Davies

production centre is the town of Tequila,

.

Jalisco, located about 60 kilometres

The team is made up of process

northwest of Guadalajara. Tequila is

engineers, mechanical and industrial

Mexico’s third biggest agri-food export

DISTILLERS JOURNAL

The challenge in designing a new distillery is, you are not just designing it for today, but for a lifespan that might be over 100 years

Briggs of Burton is at the forefront of designing large scale tequila distilleries which will be green and sustainable in a desert enviornment.

DESIGN & BUILD after beer and avocados.

heat from one location, introduce it to

“The scales of these operations are

another, which would save across the

enormous,” says Davies. “Briggs of

plant, and it’s that holistic joining up of

Burton’s project in Jalisco with one of

the dots of all of the unit operations that

the world’s leading tequila distillers has been a great privilege. Working on it, you real the scale of operations that they are fulfilling to satisfy the worldwide demand and thirst for tequila, and the requirement to expand and grow to half a million bottles annually.”

Davies says that to meet these demands a seasoned and experienced team is essential. Traditionally, tequila is associated with painstaking production but as the demand soars, distilleries are

Is the aspiration of the distillery built today to meet their year’s growth, or for five- and 10-years’ time?”

Scott Davies

you might not get if you were a supplier of a specific piece of equipment, where you live in your silo.”

He adds: “But if you stand back as a process engineering company, or process turnkey engineering project company where we’re responsible for the overall site, it does play into your hands that you get the overview of all the operations, and actually probing and putting into the practices of where we know how to take heating, cooling, from

looking at how they can keep up with

one location or energy and redeploy it

demand.

elsewhere across the site, really for the benefit of the customer to meet their

Davies says that lots of questions need to be asked: “Will equipmemt fit in? Is it

been served behind that sometimes.

sustainability objectives.”

a new site? Is it an existing site? Is there

Be aware that it is a visitor centre and

Tequila producers are keenly aware of

going to be sufficient power to power

an experience, which are incredibly

the need for sustainable methods and

these motors and other components? Is

enjoyable in their own right, and quite

are making great strides in ensuring

there room to expand? Is the aspiration

often behind the scenes there can be a

processes are as ecologically friendly as

of the distillery built today to meet their

larger production environment, satisfying

possible. While there is the start-up farm

year’s growth, or for five- and 10-years’

the needs of the market.”

distilleries, craft distilleries, and large preProhibition distilleries traversing Jalisco,

time?”

FUTURE AND TRADITION

While there is a healthy and vibrant craft

when looking through an engineering

market, the popularity of tequila on the

lens – which is around water and energy

world’s stage cannot be serviced with

– size is an advantage.

Distilleries need to be built for tomorrow’s

artisan practices. It’s a difficult balance

world. Yet if you drive through Jalisco and

to strike – one in which distillers want to

Davies says with scale also comes a

past many of the tequila distilleries, to

protect their brand, and the processes

budget for larger capital equipment:

the casual observer, the tourist, it doesn’t

that have gone before, but at the same

“And maybe investments towards more

look like much has changed in hundreds

time leveraging new technology to

premium technologies or technologies

of years.

realise volume.

that have paybacks that are beyond

“Many of these brands thrive on their

“You don’t go to a plant and just duplicate

those smaller scale or a craft scale

history and legacy,” says Davies. “To

their existing operation,” says Davies. “You

where actually their focus is on maybe

shrug that off, well I think that would

modernise, you make it more efficient by

post Covid survival or growth where that

be quite sad, because obviously, the

both minimising losses such as materials

money might be invested elsewhere.”

evolutions and revolutions you may have

and energy, while increasing production.”

He adds: “So just imagine you’re a 24/7 operation, where there’s a whole series

gone through – and the 100-year facade that you may see in the old world – it

SIZE MATTERS

of heating and cooling loops, and water systems that because you’re running

shouldn’t be lost in the audience that to meet some of the scales of operations,

Davies says working with the distiller in all

24/7, and probably with a level of

the efficiencies and technologies of 100

aspects of the plant and its performance

automation, you can have systems that

years ago don’t meet current demand.”

gives Briggs a bird’s eye view of the

are managing and taking those heating

client’s entire operation.

and cooling areas and put them back

Davies adds that when you visit the

“You really do need a holistic view, you

into the right parts of the plant at the right

distilleries in Jalisco – there’s a lot more

need a site-wide perspective, there’s

time.

going on behind the scenes than meets

always heat sources and sinks,” he notes.

the eye. “There’s clearly instances where

“So, at certain points, heating something

“With smaller batch operations, you’ve

some of it is very much for visitor appeal,”

and something needs to be cooled

got this ebb and flow and this start-up

he says. “And I think you just need to

down. So you do have to stand back,

shutdown operation. Here, there may be

be mindful as to what you’ve been

work with the customer to sort of push

instances, if you had the technology and

shown and maybe the volume that’s

on the equipment that could maybe take

you’d invested in some heat recovery,

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47

DESIGN & BUILD you have captured some hot water from

Davies says that one of the most

But one of the things that Briggs is

your condensers, and you stored it – but

important aspects of making sure your

doing to make sure their customers are

when would that be used? If it was in

distillery is ready for the future, is thinking

technology ready is making sure that

a 24/7 operation, there is likely to be

about energy: “All of our customers are

they see their distillery as “modular”.

another user of that hot water, so you’ve

clearly exploring energy, the energy mix,

recovered and used it.

and asking, what’s next? I think part of the

“What we mean by this is, we’ll provision

“But at the craft scale, you might have

challenge you may be seeing here is that

for some capacity for plug-and-play

recovered it, but the frequency of

we’re in a bit of a state of flux in terms

elements whereby there are space

your operations often means that you

of our current infrastructure, with the

provisions for additional technologies

recovered it, but there might not be a

sources of our current supply, and clearly

that might be introduced in the future,

time in which you could reintroduce it

an aspiration from our own organisation,

when their commercial appropriateness

into that system. So that’s one of the

society, and the customers we work with,

or technology readiness changes. And

benefits of scale and larger operations

to change, to decarbonise.”

for things like vapour recompression,

is they can almost flat line all of those

Therefore, when it comes to the design

there’s sometimes space and height

peaks and troughs for turning things on

of the distillery, you have to think of all

constraints that you build in now and

and off, which is much harder to do at a

the factors you can actually plan for such

then you can be in a position to later introduce that technology. If you don’t,

smaller scale,” he says.

we can retrofitted the distillery but it does present some challenges.”

While, from an engineering perspective, larger plants may be more efficient when it comes to their water and energy

Davies says that Briggs is currently

as they aren’t stopping and starting

exploring some of the technologies

operations, size doesn’t mean they don’t

around different fuel types, along with

have to navigate through rough waters.

PREDICTING THE FUTURE Right now, the distilling industry, and indeed, all industries throughout the world, seem to be getting hit by black swan events – situations that you didn’t see coming nor could predict, such as Covid and now the Ukrainian crisis which is driving up the cost of fuel and raw materials.

While you might think of these events as being very unique to us right now, however, when you look at Briggs’ 290-

You don’t go to a plant and just duplicate their existing operation, you modernise, you make it more efficient” Scott Davies

heating mediums and sources. Again, the challenge of this is trying to figure out future space and plug-in requirments for a distillery being designed today.

If a distillery was just being designed for today, none of this would be a factor. But with Briggs’ long history, the company knows the the lifespan of distilleries can easily go into decades and even 100s of years.

“We don’t know all of the things that we might plug-in in the future,” says Davies.

“We know now and several years into the future, but we don’t know into the

year history, there has been a whole flock

longer term. Having that ability to make

of black swan events which have affected

provision for the unknown is something that we’re trying to introduce.”

the distilling industry. Just some of these inclued the American Revolution, the

as the rising cost of energy and that giant

Panic of 1825, the Great Depression,

concern that affects all of us in business,

In Jalisco, the agave landscape and

Prohibition, and two world wars.

which is, how can I ensure I’m ahead of

ancient distilleries have forged a distinct

the curve? That I’m ready for the “next big

identity, and they care about their legacy.

thing”?

They’re looking at their tequila distillery

When it comes to a design perspective –

200 years or so down the road, with their

the team at Briggs always ask, “what if?”

“You ask a whole series of questions

Davies says that it’s important to act on

great grandchildren involved in the craft.

around ‘what if?’ What if that failed? What

those “what ifs” and build flexibility into

If you want to create a legacy, however,

if that was shut off? What if lightning

the design of your distillery. But, this can

you’ll need it in your design and

strikes? What if it flooded? What if the

be a challenging thing to do.

engineering. You’ll need to future proof

weather temperature outside increased?

One of the reasons being is that building

yourself, and with distilling being an

There are some rigorous tools that you

flexibility into the distillery, in terms of

incredible energy intensive process and

can do, and the Briggs team do as part

things going in as a raw material and

with a global rise in energy costs, this

of a design process where it is baked

also fuel types, may be costly. And it isn’t

is the time to make provisions for the

into the design, it’s just good engineering

guaranteed that you’ll use the function

unknown by asking “what if?”

practice,” Davies explains.

you’ve added.

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DISTILLERS JOURNAL

MARKETING

A MARKETING PLAN FOR THE REST OF US

ANYONE CAN MAKE AN AVERAGE TASTING GIN, SPICED RUM, VODKA, OR OTHER SPIRITS, BUT NOT EVERYONE CAN SELL IT. AND THE REAL KICK IN THE PANTS IS THIS: YOU MIGHT BE MAKING A SUPERIOR TASTING SPIRIT, BUT YOUR BOTTLES STILL SIT ON A SHELF GATHERING DUST. BUT DON’T GIVE UP. VELO MITROVICH REPORTS

distillersjournal.info

M

arketing seems to consist of one of these two strategies. The first is to close our eyes, point our shotgun

of ideas into the sky, fire and hope we hit something. Or, we leap from ‘best marketing idea ever’ to ‘best marketing idea ever’ and accomplish nothing but spin our tyres and waste our precious time.

We’re led to believe that if we build a better mouse trap, the world will beat a path to our doors, but nothing could be further from the truth. If you’re not somehow marketing that mouse trap, there won’t be a single soul knocking on your door.

So, how do you promote your spirit,

Author and marketing expert Philip Allott

especially if you’re a small craft distiller?

You can hire a PR/marketing firm to represent you – who may or may not do a good job. But if they’re not, by the time

marketing IT experts – can tie together

you realise this, not only will your wallet

all the zillion e-marketing methods out

be a lot lighter, it could also be too late

there right now to get you sales. The

for your business.

book is divided into 29 chapters with

Or you try to do it inhouse, which is

each one ending with a list of key points

easier said than done. Chances are, you

and actions to take from each chapter.

are probably the one responsible for

The brilliant thing about this approach is,

distilling, bottling, packing, and shipping.

not only does it give you a quick review, it

So why not add marketing to your list,

also allows you to jump around and pick

you no doubt have a bit of free time

the information that you need to know

between three and four in the morning.

NOW.

You turn to Amazon for ideas. Marketing

ALAN SUGAR COMES KNOCKING

book after marketing book promises you the moon but deliver little. Putting a bottle of your spirit into a customer’s

Allott has over 40 years’ experience

hand can’t be that hard, humans have

in sales and marketing and over that

been trading since the beginning of time,

time, he tells Distillers Journal that he’s

but it does seem like rocket science.

learned a few lessons, with one of the

Help could be at hand, however, thanks

first coming from selling a product from

to a newly published book by Philip

Amstrad, a company founded in 1968 by

Allott, entitled Integrated Business

a 21-year-old Alan Sugar.

to Business Marketing: the complete

The company Allott worked for was

blueprint. In a nutshell, Allott explains how

convinced to take 250 units of this new

you – and he means ‘you’, not a team of

thing called a word processing machine,

AUTUMN 2022

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51

o ess d

un lds ns ble r,

d ears the ectly UK. ting .

Philip Allott

Integrated Business to Business Marketing Philip Allott

nt sage ers, e the site ing gital ing ctive s

Integrated Business to Business Marketing

The Complete Blueprint

everything together from trade shows

this sounds good but eliminate those that

to social media to publicity. No matter

are dry or only have a few employees

how technology changes, this strategy is

and it’s now a lot fewer.

going to remain the same.

“If you want pubs and bars, that’s 40,000.

“Nobody’s really talks much about

But if I just want to do where I live, which

integrated marketing. That press release

is in the Harrogate area, there’s only 130.

you wrote becomes the content for

“You really need to define, and this is

Twitter, which becomes the content for a

what the book talks about, define who

newsletter, which becomes the content

your target is, and then put the strategy

you send to prospects, which becomes

around and your marketing plan around

the content you put on your website,”

that,” he says.

says Allott. “The whole idea is that we link things together.”

According to Allott, all too often people

In other words, material you create once,

get an idea in terms of what they want

you can easily repackage it and use it

to do as a business and then they just

again and again, all without having to

plough money in without really taking

reinvent the wheel.

the vision to a level where it becomes a

“What’s happened in the last 20-

strategy and then a plan.

30 years is marketing has become

“And of course, they’ve not done any

more fragmented. And it’s more and

research and they waste a lot of money.

more important that you link all the

Down the line, they’ll complain and

which Sugar assured them that it would

components together. New technologies

say: ‘Oh, we did some advertising and it

revolutionize the entire UK’s typewriter

will come and go. But if you read this

didn’t work.’ “You did some advertising

business.

book, you’ll understand how to put the

but without any research, therefore you

Young Allott told his company he thought

technologies together and make them

were never going to reach your target

it was a foolish idea; in the north of

work,” says Allott, adding that if you are

audience.”

England typical sales were no more than

looking at specific technologies such as

50 typewriters a month. What were they

MailChimp and how to use it, this book is

going to do with 250 of these machines

not for you.

04-779-0

that nobody knew anything about?

Luckily for the company, the head office

WHAT TO DO IF SMALL If you’re a small craft distiller, you’ve

FINDING YOUR TARGET

overruled Allott and bought Sugar’s

probably been advised by many to either put all of marketing efforts into trade

machines. Within two weeks they had

American car manufacturer Henry

shows, or a website, or Facebook, or

sold them all.

Ford liked to say that half his marketing

Twitter, or even Instagram.

“What was different?” says Allott. “First

budget was wasted. But the problem

But with limited time and funds, is there

of all, it was different technology. But

was, he didn’t know which half. If you

just one thing you can do that will make

secondly and most importantly, they

can’t figure out exactly who you’re trying

a difference? Although some marketing

were advertised on television and people

to market your spirt to, you’ll be in the

people equate websites with dinosaurs,

walked in and bought the product. I

same situation.

you really need one and you have to

learned very early on it pays to advertise.”

A question Distillers Journal often asks

keep it up to date.

producers is: “Who and where do you

“The truth of it is due to the fragmentation

FRAGMENTATION OF MARKETING

see your market?” Too often the answer

of marketing, there’s no one thing you

we hear is: “To everyone in the entire UK.”

can do in isolation; what you have to do is

In many of our overflowing bookshelves

According to Allott, at first glance that

“There’s no point in people going to

at home are numerous marketing

seems to be the right approach. You

see you at tradeshow if you haven’t got

books, in each one the author claiming

want maximum number of sales so why

a website. For every one person who

that his/her book will be the last one

not go after the maximum number of

engages with you, four times as many

you ever need. With a good chunk of

customers. Unfortunately, it doesn’t work

people are going to go look you up

them, by the time they made it to print,

that way. If you want to be effective, you

on the website to see if you for them,

whatever marketing technology they’re

need to realise that your target audience

before they even do engage with you.

boosting about has been superseded by

is actually small.

If you have no website, you have no

something else. The question was put to

“The number of wines and spirits shops

real presence, and you’re not seen as

Allott: How will his book be any different?

in the UK are 4,299 – which sounds good

a serious player. The first thing is to get

While Allott’s book covers marketing

– but there’s only 288 that employ more

the website done and have that properly

technologies, more importantly he says

than 10 people,” says Allott. “We can talk

anchored at the centre of your marketing.”

that it covers the strategy of linking

about restaurants, there’s 65,000. Again,

to do things in order,” says Allott.

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DISTILLERS JOURNAL

ANOTHER BOOK? Does the world need another marketing

QUICK TIPS FOR PRESS NOTICE

book, let alone the distilling industry? If

If you have no website, you have no real presence, and you’re not seen as a serious player” Philip Allott

you’re one of the big boys with your own

Why do some press releases get

marketing team, then no, you’re paying

picked up by the media and oth-

someone to come up with these ideas.

ers are ignored? It’s a question that

But, if you’re small to medium, I’d bet you

everyone who sends one off wonders

are your own marketing team, along with

about.

being your own distiller, packer, shipper,

There are some key things you can

and bottle washer.

do to get noticed:

This easy to read, easy to navigate in

1. Have a compelling story. A new

book, will give you solid ideas on how

head of accounts is not compelling;

to get your marketing plan going. In

expanding your distillery is. People

addition, if you’re hiring someone to do

are generally interested in people so

your marketing, it will give you enough

try to work a person into the story.

knowledge to make sure that they’re

2. Don’t worry about word length,

earning the money that you’re paying

three interesting paragraphs work

them.

better than 700 words.

Distillers Journal fully recommends

3. Have contact details of people who

Integrated Business to Business Marketing

will actually respond to enquiries.

to you. Easy to read with no fluff, you’ll

4. For jpegs going to print media, they

find this low-priced book to be one of the

need to be 1MB to 2MB. A size that

most important marketing investments

works online will not work in print.

you’ll ever make.

Supply both vertical and horizontal shots. Think about how the photograph reflects what your brand is.

distillersjournal.info

AUTUMN 2022

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53

TRENDING

THE FUTURE IS READY TO DRINK NEXT TIME YOU’RE DOING YOUR TESCO ORDER ONLINE, TAKE A LOOK AT THE MASSIVE SELECTION OF READY TO DRINK (RTD) COCKTAILS RANGING IN PRICE FROM 70P TO £4.00. IF THERE IS ANY TIME TO BE THINKING ABOUT PUTTING YOUR SPIRIT IN A CAN, IT’S NOW. VELO MITROVICH REPORTS

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I

f you’re like many of us, when you

cocktails, using rum, tequila, vodka, gin,

want to spot a trend, you take a

and whiskey spirits, with the majority of its

quick look at what’s happening

range found in vodka and tequila drinks.

across the Pond for it will soon be here. Does this always work?

This is truly becoming a global trend

As much as we hate to admit it, it does

with producers, for example, going after

seems to for a good portion of the time.

specific ethnic markets.

Craft beer, tap rooms, and food trucks were – and continue to be – big business

Korean American Grace Choi says that

in the States. It took a while here before

she always knew she wanted to start a

brewers caught on, but there is no

brand which celebrated her heritage.

looking back. And indeed, some would

While she had numerous ideas, it struck

say our brewers have yet to realise the

her that what she liked doing most was

full potential of creating a complete craft

to spend time with family and friends,

beer experience for their customers.

and drinking the Korean national spirit, soju. By cold-calling canneries, she finally

That said, other trends such as putting

found one that was ready to take her

pumpkin pie spice (cinnamon, allspice,

canned soju cocktail line, Jumo, from

and ginger) into everything from whisky

concept to reality.

to Starbucks will never have the same

Carol Pak, who has started Sool canned

appeal here as in the States where,

soju cocktails, says that while working

embarrassingly for the human race, the

for ZV Ventures, the innovation arm of

first Starbucks pumpkin pie spice lattes

Anheuser-Busch InBev, she realised that

of the season are reported as news.

there would be a huge global shift in the beverage environment and she wanted

While RTD cocktails have been around

to be part of it.

since the 1960s in the States, they never made much of a dent in sales until 2019

According to NielsenIQ, the RTD

when, thanks to the Covid-19 pandemic,

segment saw a massive 40 percent

people around the world abandoned

increase in sales and its biggest growth

pubs, bars, and restaurants, and instead

in shares of sales year-on-year by a

started mixing and pouring cocktails

staggering 416 percent in 2020. NielsenIQ

at home. Consumers quickly realised

says that this growth continued in 2021 –

that it was a whole lot easier opening a

now past pandemic shut-downs – with

can than creating a home bar, and spirit

continued triple-digit growth. This isn’t

manufacturers were happy to oblige.

happening just in the States but is global,

“Canned cocktails are a convenient and

and it’s only going to get bigger thanks to

quality solution for cocktail lovers,” says

Coca-Cola and Jack Daniels teaming up

Earl Kight, the co-founder and chief sales

to put Jack & Coke into a can.

and marketing officer for San Diego’s Cutwater Spirits. “No ingredients, no prep

While it’s easy to say that Covid brought

or clean-up. They offer controlled ABVs

about this growth, the continued growth

and consistently taste delicious.”

has happened because manufactures

Cutwater first started making spirits in the

have considerably upped their game with

back of its brewery. Now, besides having

natural flavours premium spirits. In talking

a full range of spirits, it has nearly 30 RTD

with some London bartenders, they can

DISTILLERS JOURNAL

Pritesh Mody, founder of World of Zing

READY TO DRINK see the day when RTD cocktails are

within the UK. Consequently, this helped

available in a pub.

inspire us at World of Zing to be creative,

“You don’t expect the person behind

with exciting flavour combinations

the bar to have made the beer they’re

playing a key part.”

pouring. They’ve either popped a bottle, opened a tap, or cracked open a can,” says one bartender speaking off the record. “If the quality continues with RTD, why should it be any different?”

BESPOKE COCKTAILS One London mixologist willing to go on record is Pritesh Mody, resident cocktail expert for Channel 4’s Sunday Brunch and founder of bespoke bottle cocktail company World of Zing. With 20 bottle

RTD cocktails have taken huge chunks of sales away from wine, beer, and classic spirit and mixer style drinks’ Pritesh Mody

Jim Vorel, a US drinks writer and an extreme fan of Tiki cocktails, says that most tiki cocktails are defined by complexity and complexity, which makes them and similar drinks not suitable for RTD. “Well-made tiki cocktails often feature multiple kinds of fresh fruit juice, various syrups being used for sweetness or to add spices, blends of rums/other spirits, and additional liqueurs or mixers. RTD cocktail makers, on the other hand, want

cocktails, last year his business sold a

the production of these products to be as

whopping one million cocktails.

simple as they possibly can be, and that

“RTD cocktails have taken huge chunks

is almost universally going to result in worse cocktails,” says Vorel.

of sales away from wine, beer, and classic spirit and mixer style drinks, and I

as cheap and mass produced. However,

However, Mody believes this doesn’t

can see this trend growing as consumers

pre-batch is a totally different concept,”

have to be the case.

continue to demand more interesting

says Mody. “Pre-batched cocktails should

experiences from food and drink,” says

deliver the same experience as a freshly

“It’s no longer acceptable just to have

Mody.

made cocktail – and at World of Zing,

a standard Mojito or Margarita on the

“Continuing in 2022, the hospitality

we’re positive they do. By handcrafting

menu – there needs to be an added

industry appears to be suffering a

each cocktail from a dedicated mixology

twist to take the drink in a direction that

shortage of skilled bartenders and staff

lab in South London, we can ensure

consumers won’t already be familiar with.

from the ongoing effects of Covid-19.

our bottles and pouches are filled with

“For example, our Persian Lime & Nori

Pre-batch cocktails offer many benefits,

bartender-quality cocktails.

Margarita and Yuzu Whiskey Sour saw

including speed of service and reduced

“The World of Zing team is largely made

huge like-for-like sales increases in

wastage.

up of former bartenders with experience

the on-trade, as we started to exit the

“Covid-19 also saw the on-trade industry

at some incredible venues, such as

pandemic. Citrus forward ingredients

innovate with new revenue streams,

Hawksmoor and Dishoom. As such, we

such as Yuzu and Lemongrass are

such as delivery and meal kits, showing

would argue that our extensive R&D

moving into the mainstream, and

how a great pre-batch solution can

process and experience allows our

seasonal fruits and flavours are also

enhance customer experience. Alongside

customers to benefit from consistently

key to keeping brands engaged with

traditional on-trade, we have been able

brilliant cocktails, rarely seen outside of

consumers throughout the year.

to put RTD cocktails everywhere from

the absolute best cocktail bars.”

“We don’t necessarily develop new cocktails with the intention of being

hotel minibars such as The Langham Hotel and Dark Kitchens, to popular

With Mody being an expert, he was

overtly innovative, but we are also

national groups such as Curzon Cinemas,

asked what would grab his interest in

constantly pushing the boundaries of

Tonkotsu, and Bill’s,” he says.

trying a RTD cocktail?

flavour and styles of cocktails that can be

“In the modern context, pre-batched

bottled. Ultimately, it’s all down to flavour.

A problem RTD cocktails have had from

cocktails have dovetailed with the rapidly

It may sound obvious, but if something

the beginning is that most tasted canned.

increasing demand for cocktails. From a

doesn’t taste incredible and makes the

If you compared the tasted of canned

practical perspective, they are not only

drinker pause the first time they have a

orange juice to fresh, the taste difference

hugely convenient, but can also be more

sip, then we don’t have a business,” he

is extreme. Some manufactures of RTD

environmentally friendly through reduced

says.

drinks tell Distillers Journal that due to

waste, and most importantly – if properly

continued fermentation, bacteria, and

crafted and rested – can taste even

other issues, it isn’t as simple as just

better than a freshly made drink.

putting fresh juice into a can along with

“For me, it is all about the flavour. I was

Data sows shows that RTD product

a spirit.

brought up surrounded by exciting

launches are increasingly leaning into

“To most people, most cans and bottles

flavours and ingredients, growing up in

super-premium pricing, packaging with

found on supermarket shelves are seen

one of the oldest spice merchant families

less plastic, fewer direct health claims,

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GREATER ABV DIVERSITY

DISTILLERS JOURNAL

READY TO DRINK

and greater diversity of alcohol content,

but still have some way to go.

an alcohol content of five percent or higher. This trend has been led by China,

with half of all new RTD products having an ABV of 5% or higher.

IWSR has been tracking an evolution

the US, and Australia, but is not universal.

This is true across the key RTD markets –

in flavour profiles for RTD products,

Other countries such as Germany and

Australia, Brazil, Canada, China, Germany,

especially for spirit-based RTDs in the

Japan are seeing a decrease in new

Japan, Mexico, South Africa, the UK, and

US, with two distinct flavour profiles

innovations with higher ABVs.

the US – which represent 85 percent of

coming to market. IWSR has defined

global consumption of RTDs.

these as “complex” and “simple” flavour

The number of health claims associated

“The ability to respond to consumer

products.

with new RTD products is decreasing.

needs goes some way to explaining the

“Complex flavour” drinks are those that

The share of launches that included

rapid rise of RTDs,” says Brandy Rand,

contain full amounts of sugar, calories,

messages about low calories, sugars,

COO Americas at IWSR which conducted

and ingredients. They provide the

carbs, or gluten dropped from 38 percent

the research.

full-flavour taste profile of an alcohol

in the first half of 2021 to 29% in the

drink and tend not to be carbonated. In

second half of the year.

The number of RTD products using

contrast, “simple flavour” drinks have

“Despite knowing that dietary needs are

plastic-only packaging is reducing.

lower sugar and calorie contents. They

indirect motivators to product selection,

IWSR data shows that just one percent

tend to be lighter and clear, based

producers are opting to highlight natural

of new RTD products used plastic-only

on seltzer or soda, and therefore are

ingredients instead. This movement is

packaging in the second half of 2021,

generally more refreshing in character.

likely linked to premiumisation in the

down from five percent in the first half of

The two groups aren’t completely

category,” says Rand. She adds that, in a

the year.

distinctive, however, and already show

sense, natural ingredients might be seen

Environmentally focused packaging cues

some overlap. For example, Spa Girl

as healthier than substituting certain

are increasingly important to consumers.

cocktails are low in sugar and carbs,

ingredients such as sugar.

In the US, for example, IWSR research

and at 11.5-16.5% ABV, they contain 3.4

With RTDs shifting towards more

shows that 44 percent of alcohol drinkers

times more alcohol per serving than the

premium, sustainable examples with

feel that their purchasing decisions are

average spirit-based RTD.

fewer direct health claims and a greater diversity of alcohol levels, consumers

positively influenced by businesses with an active environmental or sustainability

As an extension of evolving flavours, new

have a broad and varied range of options

agenda. Some markets are moving away

RTD brand owners, as well as established

in this fast-growing category.

from plastic more quickly than others.

producers, are increasingly introducing

In Germany, Japan and South Africa,

products with higher ABV rather than

no new products used plastic alone

focusing on the more traditional 3-5%

last year. On the other hand, Brazil and

ABV range. Around half of all new RTDs

There is nothing new about the drink

Mexico are progressing away from plastic

launched in the second half of 2021 had

Jack Daniels and Coca-Cola. Bartenders

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GAME CHANGER

DISTILLERS JOURNAL

READY TO DRINK have been taking orders for Jack & Cokes

On the negative side, Coke is a giant.

asked just how big this was going to be.

since at least 1907 when an employee

While you might be struggling to get

“We haven’t given any guidance on the

of the US Bureau of Chemistry and Soils

your RTD cocktail into the hands of a

absolute size of the product. It is a little

encountered the drink when visiting the

drinker 10 feet from your distillery, Coke

bit difficult to know. There is a Jack and

US south and the bartender called it a

will be thinking of global domination.

Cola product that’s already quite sizeable

“Coca-Cola high-ball.

You can find Coca-Cola literally on every

for us. It’s a big business for us around

There is nothing new about RTD cans

continent – including Antarctica. No

the world. It’s particularly big in places

with whiskey and cola or Jack Daniels

company in the world has a distribution

like Germany and Australia. But certainly,

and cola, but there has never been an

network like Coca-Cola.

putting the Coke label on the can is a game changer and something that we’re

RTD drink with Jack Daniels and official Coca-Cola.

Each second the world consumes 10,000

really excited about.

Coke soft drinks, with 1.9 billion cans/

“This is a global agreement and it’s

Since 1892, Coca-Cola has taken what it

bottles sold a day. Mexico is the world’s

going to take us a little bit of time to

saw what it saw as the moral high ground

largest consumer of Coke products with

get ourselves organised and get it into

(we won’t mention that formula with

the average person – man, woman, and

distribution. But I do think 2023 will be a

cocaine) and has not associated itself

child – drinking 630 8oz cups a year. It’s

big year. Coke has such a magnificent

with alcoholic spirits, seeing itself as an

no surprise that diabetes is the number

distribution system, obviously, as large as

alternative.

one killer in Mexico. The US is second

they are, so places like Africa, India, we

Those days are over, however, and it

with 403 cups per person, with the UK at

see this as an emerging market play in

will be genuine Coca-Cola – not some

seventh, drinking 210 8oz cups.

places where we’re not as big.

watered-down cola-copy – going into

With Coke being in such huge demand in

“It’s exciting in those markets where

this new RTD cocktail.

Mexico, its Jack & Coke RTD will be first

consumers often can’t afford an entire

On the plus side, for those of you

trialled in Mexico this year and will then

bottle of Jack Daniels, but they can afford

selling RTD cocktails, if this doesn’t

go globally.

a can of Jack and Coke. It’s an entree into some of these markets for us and

make drinkers being willing to try RTD cocktails, nothing will. And once they do,

Brown-Forman – which owns Jack

hopefully they will try yours.

Daniel’s – CEO Lawson Whiting was

distillersjournal.info

another reason why we feel pretty good.”

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READY TO DRINK

UK DRINKERS DRAWN TO THE MOTH’S FLAME AT TIMES, ONE OF THE MOST TIRED EXPRESSIONS YOU HEAR IS SOME COMPANY TELLING YOU THE FIRST THING THEY DID WAS TO TEAR UP THE RULE BOOK. AND, NINE TIMES OUT OF 10, THIS MEANS THAT IN REALITY, THEY’RE FOLLOWING EVERY RULE IN THE BOOK AND THEN SOME. BUT THEN THERE IS MOTH RTD COCKTAILS, FOUNDED

BY SCHOOL FRIENDS ROB WALLIS AND SAM HUNT. DISTILLERS JOURNAL REPORTS

I

n talking with Rob Wallis, you get

cleverer than me, came up with ‘Mix Of

the feeling that he’s never even

Total Happiness – MOTH – which for me

heard of the “rule book” and if he

is the cocktail and the environment that

did, he would have just ignored it.

you’re in. Now, I couldn’t imagine it being

Let’s quickly go over some of

anything else.

the thing’s MOTH is doing differently.

You name your brand after some insect.

How did a couple of lads from the

You don’t under-price your competitors

University of York decide that RTD – ready

but take the opposite tack and have

to drink – cocktails were the way to go?

the most expensive RTD drink on the

That’s a very good question and I’ll let

shelf, and at times in the smallest can.

you know when we decide. We actually

You don’t try to swamp the market with

were friends from school, next door to

various cocktails but instead, take a very

each other. So I’ve known my co-founder

slow approach. Your cans don’t look like

for about 14 years. We both went to

something holding cocktails but more

university where we became foodies

like a craft beer. You genuinely believe

and very competitive in the kitchen. I

that flavour, quality, and product safety,

got my first ever bartending job to pay

will bring you to the winner’s circle. And,

off my student overdraft and I worked

as MOTH’s website proclaims: DON’T BE

in ‘luxury hospitality’ for the world’s best

AN ASSHOLE.

ski company. looking after millionaires

The insane thing is; the MOTH philosophy

and billionaires and they all had amazing

is working. Clients include Selfridges,

chefs. I spent every day working and

Harrods, The Ritz and Hoxton Hotels,

living with these chefs and people

Waitrose, Sainsbury and now Tesco,

making drinks and couldn’t help but fall

going from 250 stores nation-wide to

in love with a world of great service and

over 1,600.

people with incredibly high standards.

[The following interview has been edited

I came back to more bartending and

and shortened for space. For the complete

Sam was off building a career in film and

interview, go to Distillers Journal Podcast

television – he was working with clients

on our webpage]

like Netflix, Disney, and BBC. He likes to say that he had a proper career that I

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Distillers Journal: Let’s get this one out of

ruined. Which is true, because I sent him

the way first, where did the name MOTH

a message one day saying: ‘I want to start

come from?

a company that makes the perfect bottle

Rob Wallis: We had a different name in

of Old Fashioned’. And he sent back a

the beginning, and it was really hard to

Facebook message which verbatim said:

spell – it was a bit French and a bit left of

‘That’s not actually a terrible idea.

centre. So, we started a rebrand with this

”

amazing agency called Pentagram. We

Did quite a bit research go into creating

all sat together in a room and there’s a

the perfect cocktail?

big list of names. We went through them

I made up a litre of Old Fashioned as a

all and ‘moth’ was the last one on the

test. It wasn’t perfect, but it produced a

list, and everyone said: ‘You can’t name a

little germ of an idea saying if cocktails

cocktail brand after an insect.’

were just as easy, you’d always have

We came back two weeks later, and that

them because cocktails are amazing. Not

was only one that we remembered.

everyone’s a bartender and knows how

I asked Pentagram what if moth stood for

to make them, but everyone who’s had

something, what if it was an acronym?

a cocktail wishes they could recreate ibe

They went away and being much

at home. So that’s where we started. We

DISTILLERS JOURNAL

READY TO DRINK MOTH founders, Sam Hunt (L) and Rob Wallis

still holding on 15 months later.

landed Selfridges, and then to Harrods

the big break was Waitrose.

and The Ritz and to Daylesford and two

They were amazing, helping us with our

really high-end clients and sort of got this

branding and gave us expert advice; they

It’s hard not comparing the US to the

little brand that we handmade ourselves;

really became involved. We finally said:

UK market and trying to spot trends.

every bottle was ridiculously expensive.

‘We’ve worked on this together, give us a

In the States, hard seltzers have done

From there was the realisation that we

little 25 store trial.’ They said: ‘No, we’ll put

well; not so much here where few see

were onto something but not how we

you in 200 stores and you’ve got three

the attraction in drinking a mostly

were going about it. Rebranding took

months.’ And so from that moment it was

carbonated water beverage with little

place along with raising money. And then

like getting on a roller coaster, and I’m

alcohol and flavour. In the States, RTD

distillersjournal.info

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READY TO DRINK

cocktails have shown some of the

UK. We have to be absolutely safe and

greatest growth in the spirits industry,

absolutely consistent. So, we work

with some supermarkets seeing up to a

with people who have much more

60 percent increase in sales. Will it be the

experience. We take them the recipe and

same here with continued growth or just another hard seltzer flop?

I think the trend and the growth in RTD in the UK is going to come from premiumization and innovation, not from making it cheaper and in very heavy quotation marks ‘healthy for you’ like hard seltzer is trying to do. There’s a real fallacy in trying to make something that is fundamentally unhealthy and should

As we said from day one, if we can’t say yes to big opportunities, then we’re not ready’ Rob Wallis

explain how to make it and everything, but the knowledge and expertise of putting what we have on a page into a can is something we pay them for.

The spirits used in your drinks aren’t cheap; the mixes used aren’t cheap, and even your design company wasn’t cheap, giving you the most expensive RTD cocktails on a supermarket shelf. For

only be drunk in moderation. I would

example, at Tesco’s, a House of Cocktails

never suggest that you drink either a hard

Mojito costs 0.75p for 250 ml. Your Mojito

seltzer or a MOTH before doing yoga or

at Tesco’s costs £3.90 for a smaller can.

From day one, were you out to create

driving. Right? That is not what it’s for.

So, I really struggle with the hard seltzer

cocktail; the challenge is in making one

a high-end, authentic RTD cocktail

market in the UK. There are really strong

with real ingredients and making an

experience?

trends showing that the UK is going to

authentic cocktail.

First thing, that 75p House of Cocktails

have an enormous RTD market; it’s just

I think it’s very easy to make a cocktail

Mojito is astonishing – it’s not a bad drink.

not going to be hard seltzer.

flavoured thing and an Espresso Martini

I’ve tried to work out how they make

flavoured thing. However, to make an

it at that price and I can’t, it genuinely

People involved in RTD cocktails have

actual Espresso Martini in a can it is a

blows my mind. With us, we’re not trying

told me that it’s far from being as simple

real challenge because how it interacts.

to create a Mojito thing, we’re creating

as mixing a big batch of cocktails and

In a bar, an Espresso Martini has a total

a cocktail, it’s a totally different kettle of

putting it a can. When different liquids

lifespan of 10 minutes; in a can it can

fish. What you can compare us to is that

are mixed, their chemistry changes and,

be sitting somewhere for 10 months,

£12 cocktail you had in the bar last week.

in part due to the lower ABV, the stability

and you still need it tasting as fresh as

We’re incredibly proud of what we put

and shelf-life of the product are reduced.

when it went into the can. So yeah, it’s a

in our drinks; I’ll shout till the cows come

Is this a real challenge in creating a RTB

hell of a challenge to create something

home about the amazing partners we

cocktail?

that’s authentic. But I think we’re showing

have because we’re only as good as what

I think the answer is staring us all in the

people that they don’t have to accept a

we put in our drinks.

face, which is putting more alcohol in it.

subpar experience.

Does your insistence of using high quality

We solved that problem by making it the same strength as a bar, so we don’t have

Do you outsource production or make

ingredients and then the accompanying

to pasteurise it and we don’t have to put

in-house?

price almost doom you to not being a

nasties [preservatives] in it.

It’s all made in the UK, but we outsource

market leader?

it. We could go gung-ho and make it

I figure, lets us be a market leader but in

Following up with that, a US publication

ourselves, but we want to work with

a different market. I think we are creating

says that it is easy to make a RTD

some of the biggest customers in the

a category. And it is no surprise that now

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DISTILLERS JOURNAL

READY TO DRINK lots and lots of other people are following suit. It’s not going to be us forever. But I hope it’s always us leading.

You first went into Waitrose which seems like a good fit, but now you’re also in 450 Sainsbury’s and 900 Tesco’s shops.

With inflation growing and paycheques shrinking, do you think Tesco shoppers in particular will be willing to pay easily double for a MOTH RTD? So we’re finding out the theory is yes and I’d say there’s a few things behind that.

One is, there’s always room for a better product. And it’s still way cheaper than going and buying all the ingredients for a margarita which might set you back 60 quid with three limes thrown away at the end of the week, which isn’t great, right?

The other thing is, if the world goes into recession, you will trade down from your bar experience and there’s only one can on a Tesco shelf that can give you that bar experience. And that’s us. So maybe you won’t go out with 20 friends and rack up a £100 pound bar tab, or maybe you’ll have a few friends over, have a few MOTHs to create that experience, and still have some social time over alcohol.

I think the word I heard once to describe us was ‘reassuringly expensive’. We are also different to other things on that shelf, and it might be immediately first reflected by the price point. But if you take that risk, that little jump, and you taste us, you immediately understand the they’d be anywhere near us. I was as

out in front.

surprised as anyone and more delighted

The other big challenge for us is the

To sell to Sainsbury’s and Tesco’s, did you

than most. But yeah, it was a hell of a

team is really small right now, we’re

have to significantly increase production?

jump. And it’s kept us up at night for a

eight people, and recruiting people who

Yeah, absolutely. We’re still learning what

few sleepless nights. But we were ready

understand what we’re doing, who want

scale means with those guys. We’re

from day one because we built MOTH to

to join the journey and want to grow

very lucky that we have an incredible

say yes.

with us. And who have the energy and

why.

the ambition to keep up. That’s a huge

operations team that really are the core of our business. We’re operationally

We talked about your successes, what

challenge. So far we’ve been incredibly

complex, right? There is loads of stuff to

challenges do you see coming this year?

lucky that all of our hires have fit in so

make a cocktail, so there’s a huge jump

Scale, as you mentioned earlier, is

well and they’re all incredibly ambitious

in scale. But as we said from day one,

obviously a huge challenge. And if this

people. Lucky so far, but that doesn’t

if we can’t say yes to big opportunities,

goes really well, things will move very

mean it’s going to be the same forever

then we’re not ready.

quickly. And we’ve got to be funded for

– we need to put tougher a team of 20

that. And we’ve got to be ready to make

to 30 by the end of the year. And the last

We have to be from day one ready to

the big calls. And, if we do everything

huge challenge, keeping our culture in

say yes, if Tesco and Sainsbury’s come

we say we’re going to do, we won’t be

the MOTH brand and everything that

knocking, and it’s no secret that I thought

the only ones doing it for very long;

makes MOTH a success.

they weren’t coming knocking this year,

competition is obviously going to be a

I thought it wouldn’t be until 2023 that

thing. But I do believe that will we stay

distillersjournal.info

AUTUMN 2022

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63

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SCIENCE

EDIBLE QR CODE TAKES ON FAKES ACCORDING TO THEFT OF INTELLECTUAL PROPERTY EXPERTS PWC, NEARLY ONE IN FIVE UK CONSUMERS HAVE UNWITTINGLY PURCHASED COUNTERFEIT SPIRITS. HOWEVER, THANKS TO RESEARCHERS AT PURDUE UNIVERSITY, A SMALL SILK TAG MIGHT MEAN THE DAYS OF FAKE WHISKEY ARE NUMBERED. MATTHEW OAKS REPORTS FROM PURDUE

distillersjournal.info

I

n the future, when you order a

in Purdue’s Weldon School of Biomedical

shot of whiskey, you might ask

Engineering. “Researchers apply alcohol

the bartender to hold an edible

to silk proteins to make them more

fluorescent silk tag that could

durable. Because they tolerate alcohol,

be found floating inside – even

the shape of the tag can be maintained

though it is safe to consume.

for a long time.”

This little silk tag with a QR code is a security measure that could reveal if the

Kim has worked on anticounterfeit

whiskey you’re wanting to buy is fake.

measures ranging from cyberphysical

Simply using a smartphone to scan the

watermarks to tags made of fluorescent

tag, which was developed by biomedical

silk proteins. The tags have a code that a

engineers from Purdue University and

consumer or patient can activate with a

the National Institute of Agricultural

smartphone to confirm authenticity of a

Sciences in South Korea, could confirm

product.

the drink’s authenticity.

The code on the fluorescent silk tag is

There are, of course, no tags currently

the equivalent of a barcode or QR code

placed in bottles of whiskey. But this new

and is not visible to the naked eye. The

anticounterfeiting technology, published

tags are also edible, causing no issues

in the journal ACS Central Science, could

if a person swallowed it while downing

be a step toward not only finding a

a shot of whiskey. The tags have not

solution for the alcohol industry but also

affected the taste of the whiskey.

addressing fake medications.

Kim and Jungwoo Leem, a postdoctoral

“Some liquid medicines contain alcohol.

research associate, said making the

We wanted to test this first in whiskey

tags involves processing fluorescent

because of whiskey’s higher alcohol

silk cocoons from specialized silkworms

content,” says Young Kim, associate head

to create a biopolymer, which can be

for research and an associate professor

formed into a variety of patterns to

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SCIENCE Jungwoo Leem (l) and Young Kim are part of a global research team that has developed an edible QR code on a tag made of silk which could help consumers detect fake whiskey Photo credit: Purdue University photo/John Underwood

extremely important for patients and buyers in addressing this issue,” Kim said.

“If you have this technology on or in your medicines, you can use your smartphone to authenticate. We want to empower patients to be aware of this issue. We want to work with pharmaceutical companies and alcohol producers to help them address this issue.”

Kim and Leem placed tags in various encode the information.

alcoholic spirits.

brands and price points of whiskey (80

“Alcohol spirts are vulnerable to

“Counterfeit items, such as medicines

proof, 40% alcohol per volume) over

counterfeiting. There are a lot of fake

and alcohol, are big issues around the

a 10-month period and were able to

whiskeys being sold,” said Leem,

world. There are numerous examples of

continually activate the tags and codes

referencing other studies mentioned in

large amounts of fake medications sold

with a smartphone app.

the journal article about the economic

throughout the world, which, in some

One of the ways of bringing this issue

cost and loss of purchasing fake

instances, kill people,” said Kim.

to light is to literally shine a light on the

alcoholic spirits, including how 18

“Online pharmacies sell controlled

tags. The team developed ways and

percent of adults in the United Kingdom

substances to teens. People can buy

methods for the tags to be activated by

experienced purchasing counterfeit

counterfeit opioids easily. This work is

smartphones in a variety of light settings.

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DISTILLERS JOURNAL

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HARD SELTZER OPPORTUNITY

IS IT WORTH ADDING A HARD SELTZER OFFERING TO THE DRINKS YOU PRODUCE, ESPECIALLY IF YOUR DISTILLERY IS ALREADY MAKING RTD COCKTAILS? HERE, DR CHRIS COLBY FROM FIRST KEY CONSULTING, TAKES A CLOSER LOOK AT THE SECTOR’S GROWTH, AND OFFERS A WEALTH OF ADVICE ON THE PRODUCTION OF THIS POPULAR BEVERAGE.

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P

ackaged hard seltzers

Brewpubs have the option of fermenting

continued to show strong

the beverage at working strength. Most

sales through 2020, and

are not set up for high gravity brewing

their sales are predicted

and a working strength fermentation

to continue to grow in

should yield a “blank” seltzer that requires

the next several years. In addition to

less clean-up.

numerous craft production breweries, many establishments are also brewing

A brewer or distiller taking this option

and serving hard seltzers to boost their

could also opt to add the flavours

bottom line.

when the sugar wash is mixed, prior to

Tap accounts are also opening up at

fermentation, saving a step. Depending

bars and restaurants. Venues such as

on the flavouring, this may add nutrients

brewpubs have many options when it

to the sugar wash, and therefore require a

comes to serving hard seltzers. These

smaller yeast nutrient addition. However,

may increase customer satisfaction and

the fermentation would need to yield an

drive return visits.

acceptably clear beverage, as carbon filtration would remove any flavouring

Packaged hard seltzers are brewed by

present during the fermentation.

fermenting a high gravity sugar wash.

Additionally, fermentation may remove

Later, this fermented sugar wash is

or lessen flavours from the beverage.

diluted and cleaned up — most often by

Also complicating matters is the fact that

filtering through activated carbon.

many flavourings contain alcohol, and

Then, the flavouring is added. The

this would have to take into consideration

flavouring may be accompanied by an

— both in terms of how the final alcohol

addition of sugar or acid. The flavouring

content of the beverage is impacted and

may also contain preservatives.

if the brewery can legally do this.

DISTILLERS JOURNAL

Before attempting a full-sized batch

appeal to customers who desire natural

levels of sweetness — to offer. In some

using this method, the brewer should

ingredients. In that case, any slight haze

ways, more are better, but too many

have at least one successful small-scale

in the beverage becomes a feature, not

could slow down the bartenders and

test fermentation.

a bug. Adding juice to the blank seltzer

waitstaff. An excessive number of choices

Another approach would be to brew an

at the bar would likely appeal to many.

may also bewilder customers.

unflavoured base beverage. If the venue

However, because of the sugar content,

makes a “blank” hard seltzer, this will

juice should not be added to kegs,

A venue such as a brewpub could treat

allow the beverage to be cleaned up

growlers, or crowlers. This would also

their seltzer flavours in a similar manner

by fining or filtration. And the flavouring

apply to any flavouring that contained

to the types of beer they offer — offer

could be added at the bar. A single

sugar.

a core number of year-round flavours, perhaps with an option to sweeten each,

serving tank of clear, flavourless hard seltzer could yield a variety of flavours at

Informal studies have shown customers

and a rotating flavour of the month or

the bar.

prefer a sweeter, more flavourful

season. If the region is known for any

beverage in a blind taste test. However,

agricultural product that could be used

The simplest approach would be

when selecting hard seltzers at a store,

to flavour a hard seltzer, that would be a

to concoct one or more mixtures of

the calorie count becomes the major

good option for one of the offerings.

flavouring, sugar, and acid. A measured

determining factor. If a blank seltzer is

amount of the flavouring mix added

flavoured at the bar, the calorie count will

Flavourings in a hard seltzer will taint

to the blank hard seltzer would yield

not appear on the glass.

the serving lines. Another advantage

a flavoured hard seltzer. If fresh fruit

Thus, an establishment could produce a

of pushing a blank hard seltzer is that

juice — as opposed to fruit extract — is

more flavourful (and sweet) version of the

it won’t flavour tap lines, allowing the

used as the basis for the flavouring, the

beverage, if desired. A brewpub would

brewpub to switch from seltzer to beer, if

particulates in the juice could mask small

also have the option of offering sweet

needed.

amounts of haze in the blank hard seltzer.

or “unsweet” versions of the beverage.

Establishments that wish to serve hard

Fresh fruit juice — or any flavouring that

These venues should consider how many

seltzers as similar to canned seltzers

isn’t an artificial flavour — could also

options — different flavours and perhaps

as possible may need to rebalance

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HARD SELTZER one or more lines of their draft system

other combination that makes sense).

CV = CV = 4 (%ABV) X 16 (fl. oz.) = 5.5

to dispense a more highly carbonated

Serving the seltzer over ice will, of

(%ABV) X V (fl. oz.)

beverage. Hard seltzers are generally

course, dilute the alcohol content.

carbonated to around 2.8 volumes of

Depending on how sensitive the

Solving for V yields 11.6 — so the drink

CO2, whereas typical craft beer is served

brewpubs customers are to that, it may

would require 11.6 fl. oz. of the 5.5%

at 2.5–2.6 volumes of CO2.

make sense to dispense a higher alcohol

seltzer and the remaining 4.4 fl. oz. would

version of the beverage that becomes a

be filled by ice and flavouring.

In order to serve seltzer carbonated to

4–5% ABV drink when the ice melts. Ten

a higher degree, the length of the tap

fluid ounces of a 6% ABV seltzer and 2.0

Of course, you wouldn’t want the

line (or vertical distance traversed) will

oz. of ice yields a 12-oz. serving at 5%

bartender to have to do these

have to be increased. Installing a tap line

ABV.

calculations each time a drink is

with smaller interior diameter (ID) tubing

Any flavouring will, of course, also dilute

served. The calculation would be

will also work. Unless the brewpub

the alcoholic content, so — in order to

made beforehand, and a generic mix

has reason to believe sales of their

serve a 5% ABV seltzer — the brewpub

proscribed — i.e., add this amount of

hard seltzer will be strong, dispensing

would need 10 fl. oz. of 6% ABV seltzer

blank seltzer to the glass plus this much

hard seltzer at normal beer levels of

and the total volume of the flavouring

flavouring, then fill with ice (or soft

carbonation would save the hassle.

and ice together would need to total 2

seltzer). And note that the flavouring may

Finally, the glassware used for hard

fl. oz.

also contain alcohol.

shaker pint. Although there is no “official”

For a general solution for any alcohol

If the bartender mixes the drink at the

glassware for a hard seltzer, a straight-

content and drink volume, use the

bar, or adds garnish, a brewery taproom

sided glass is what most hard seltzer

equation CV = CV (concentration times

more closely resembles a traditional bar

advertisements feature.

volume equals concentration times

in this respect — and this is something

seltzer should be something other than a

volume). For example, to produce 16 fl.

that may appeal to some customers.

The brewpub additionally has the option

oz. of 4% ABV seltzer from a 5.5% ABV

Bartenders may also see an increase in

to serve the drink over ice or to garnish it

blank seltzer, you would set up the

their tips if customers perceived they are

with a wedge of citrus fruit or a cocktail

equation like this:

doing more than just pulling a tap.

skewer of cherries and orange (or any

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18/01/2022 10:56:50

DISTILLERS JOURNAL

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The future of glass manufacturing is now, and we are committed to reducing our environmental impact, striving towards a net-zero future.

We are redefining what’s possible in glass manufacturing through innovative technologies, pioneering alternative materials, and establishing a circular economy.

Partnering with leading and emerging spirits brands we have elevated their brand with sustainable packaging and are constantly innovating to develop less resource-intensive glass packaging.

Want to craft an eco-concious bottle?

Speak to our team.

Phone: 01977 627 661

Website: allied-glass.com

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ENIGMA - VETROELITE SELF PROMOTION

VETROelite UK Ltd T: 0141 223 8829 info@vetroelite.com www.vetroelite.com