The Distillers Journal - Issue 5, Summer 2022

THE MAGAZINE FOR DISTILLERS AND BLENDERS OF SPIRITS

DISTILLERS

J O U R N A L

SUMMER 2022 | ISSUE 5 ISSN 2754-0014

KIRSTY BLACK Scottish renaissance master distiller 44 | SHAKEN AND ALL STIRRED UP IN NYC

36 | THE AMAZING MEZCAL JOURNEY OF PENSADOR

54 | ADDING ROASTED MALT TO WHISKY FOR FLAVOUR

EADER

WHAT IS SUCCESS?

W

hen I was a kid, I

collective group of distillers – not indi-

Back to Shelter Island. A few pre-Covid

used to go fishing

viduals – so in our eyes, our success is

years ago I was showing my wife the

with my dad down

measured the same. But a friend of mine,

fishing pier, sharing memories of my fa-

at the Shelter

Elliot Begoun who works with food en-

ther, and told her about the steak houses.

Island fishing pier

trepreneurs, says that the worst thing you

“One day,” I told her. “One day when I’ve

in San Diego. In hindsight, my family was

can do as a founder is to aim for some-

made it, we’ll eat at one.”

pretty broke, but fishing was one thing

one else’s definition of success.

we could afford.

“I don’t know what you consider ‘making

Elliot says that the pursuit of another’s

it’ but we’re doing okay. Why not now?”

Because of my dad’s work – he was a

goal has been the death of far too many

she said.

fishmonger – about the only time he had

brands. “Your job is not to prove product/

off was in the evenings so that’s when

market fit as defined by an investor, ad-

There was a problem, however. While my

we’d go to Shelter Island. Located close

visor, or anybody else. Instead, your job

measure of success hadn’t changed, San

to where the Pacific entered the harbour,

is to prove it within your available capital

Diego had. The restaurants were all gone

you could smell the sea with highlights of

and bandwidth constraints.”

except for one which was vegetarian.

salt, fish, and kelp in the air.

About five blocks away we finally found a

With San Diego being pretty much

restaurant for the yachting crowd which

Directly across the street from the free

ground zero for the US craft beer indus-

did steaks and we went in. I have to say,

fishing pier were about four or five ex-

try, I follow it during trips back home. A

it was the worst steak in my life, even

pensive hotels with even more expensive

mistake I’ve seen brewery after brewery

worse than what we got in army boot

restaurants. This being the early 1960s,

make is falling into this trap of seeing

camp with the boxes marked “Suitable

you could smell the fat from the steaks

their success defined by someone else’s.

for prisons.”

being grilled and hear laughter as people

For example, Green Flash Brewery had a

would sip their cocktails. Combine the

ton of things going for it in San Diego, but

Let me leave you then with one last

smell of the grilled steaks with that of the

they figured if they were truly successful,

thought about success. When you think

sea and to me at my young age, I figured

they’d be nationwide – just like the big

about YOUR success, remember that as

that was the smell of success.

boys.

you and your business ages and grows, or the area around you does the same,

Someday…yeah someday when I made it,

They expanded like idiots, opening up

your definition of what success is might

I’d experience it all.

a big brewery on the East Coast to help

change. Success isn’t a word carved in

with their projected production figures,

stone, be flexible with it. How you see

In talking with distillers both here and

forgetting their roots in the process, for-

success at 30 might not be how you see

in the States, we all seem to have our

getting what had made them successful

it at 60.

own definition of what success is. Seeing

in the first place. They even forgot that

your bottle on the top shelf of Waitrose,

their name, coming from a very brief flash

And if you find that perfect steak house,

making that first million in sales, or as one

of light when the sun sets in the west,

let me know.

small gin distiller told me, he would know

would mean nothing to east coast folks.

he reached success when he could quit

Of course they went bust.

his second job.

Velo Mitrovich Why did they allow someone else to set

I think a problem many of us fall into,

their goal post of success? It was a bad

however, is that we see all of us as this

call.

distillersjournal.info

Editor

SUMMER 2022

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SUMMER 2022

CONTENTS

News A barrel shortage in the USA could spell trouble for UK whisky distillers

07

Getting your beverage out faster Should you invest in your own filling and packaging equipment or outsource?

15

Non-alcoholic under alcohol regs New regulations under proposal may force nonalcoholic drinks to be marketed as alcoholic

19

Ask a bartender Why vodka distillers have reason to worry about Mexican spirits

32

Shaken and stirred in NYC Two of the Big Apple’s spirit experts might have wrote the best cocktail book – ever!

44

The quirky nature of ethanol Why when it comes to base spirits, adding one plus one, does not equal two.

59

Ceramic bottles A new range of ceramic bottles from Wade will help you get your spirit noticed on the shelf

62

Filling to the level Five key points to consider when buying or upgrading your filler

64

The heat is on How indirect stem can give you a better product and safer distillery

66

Looking for spent grain solutions University of Kentucky’s study into innovated uses for spent distilling grains

68

36 Pensador comes to the UK

No Spanish, no contacts, and no knowledge. How Ben Schroder overcame all in creating his brand of mezcal

4

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SUMMER 2022

DISTILLERS JOURNAL

CONTACTS Velo Mitrovich Editor velo@rebymedia.com +44 (0)1442 780 591 Tim Sheahan Managing Editor tim@rebymedia.com +44 (0)1442 780 592

22

Master distiller Kirsty Black The three Stirling brothers had an estate and a dream – farm to bottle spirits. They just needed a still and a distiller

49

Unsung heros of distilling

Fok Hing Gin is why we need the Portman Group who do much more than you imagine

54 Endless possibilites with roast malt flavour

Whisky flavour scientist Rutele Marciulionyte explains all

distillersjournal.info

Josh Henderson Head of sales josh@rebymedia.com +44 (0)1442 780 594 Jon Young Publisher jon@rebymedia.com Reby Media 42 Crouchfield, Hemel Hempstead, Herts, HP1 1PA, UK

SUBSCRIPTIONS The Distillers Journal is a published four times a year and mailed every January, April, July and October. Subscriptions can be purchased for four issues. Prices for single issue subscriptions or back issues can be obtained by emailing: subscribe@ rebymedia.com

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All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or any information storage or retrieval system, without the express prior written consent of the publisher. The Distillers Journal ISSN 2754-0006 is published quarterly by Reby Media, 42 Crouchfield, Hemel Hempstead, Hertfordshire, HP1 1PA. Subscription records are maintained at Reby Media, 42 Crouchfield, Hemel Hempstead, Hertfordshire, HP1 1PA. The Distillers Journal accepts no responsibility for the accuracy of statements or opinion given within the Journal that is not the expressly designated opinion of the Journal or its publishers. Those opinions expressed in areas other than editorial comment may not be taken as being the opinion of the Journal or its staff, and the aforementioned accept no responsibility or liability for actions that arise therefrom.

SUMMER 2022

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5

A

honeycomb bottle for KEEPR’s Honey Infused Spirits.

A visual celebration of KEEPR’s beekeeping heritage and its hive to bottle story, we have created its new glass bottle incorporating a hexagonal honeycomb pattern along with a unique tapered shape to reflect the tail of a honeybee.

An emphasis on sustainability is woven into the design, with the bottle crafted utilising 50% recycled glass and lighter weight than their previous product.

Looking to create a more eco-conscious bottle?

Get in contact with our team.

Phone: 44 (0)113 245 1568 Website: allied-glass.com

NEWS

WELSH DISTILLERY TO EXPAND OVERSEAS

A

SPIRIT IMPORTS UP IN CHINA Last year saw a significant rise in Chinese imports of whisky, brandy, and surprisingly tequila, according to China’s Chamber of Commerce for Import and Export of Foodstuffs.

While all the volume of imported wine fell, Australian wine was the biggest loser seeing a drop of over 90 percent.

The import volume of whiskey was 30.28 million litres and $464 million, an increase of 43.86 percent and 91.74 percent year-on-year, while the import volume of

ber Falls Whisky Distillery says that it is expanding internationally and

brandy was 48.71 million litres and $1.697

will be taking its award-winning Welsh whisky from Abergwyngregyn

billion, an increase of 27.28 percent and

– a rural village between the foothills of the Snowdonian mountains

70.30 percent year-on-year.

and the Menai Strait – to countries worldwide.

The popularity of whisky continues to

The distillery, which launched its inaugural release last May, has

soar in China with several major players

started a phased expansion plan to make its single malt Welsh whisky available

opening up or building major distilleries

through the on and off-trade in more than 10 countries globally including Australia,

in China.

Germany, Denmark, and Canada.

James Wright, managing director at Aber Falls, said that the expansion is a long-

Pernod Ricard last November said that it

term strategy and as part of the strategy, Aber Falls will be educating importers

has become the first international wines

and retailers in the new markets about the growing Welsh whisky category, the

and spirits group to establish a fully oper-

brand’s history, and its vision for the future. In collaboration with other Welsh distill-

ational malt whisky distillery in China,

eries, it is working towards protecting Welsh whisky with a Protected Geographical

which will cement its “pioneering posi-

Indication (PGI).

tion” in the increasingly valuable Chinese market.

Pernod will invest $150 million over a decade at the distillery, where production is now under way.

Philippe Guettat, chairman and chief executive of Pernod Ricard Asia, said: “ We consider it our mission to bring to life the most iconic malt whisky made in China with pride, leveraging the expertise we have as a market leader.”

The company is expecting its visitor centre in China will draw 2 million visitors a year.

Diageo Plc also announced in November that it is investing $75 million into building

Wright said: “Aber Falls is the first whisky distillery in North Wales for more than 100

its first whisky distillery in China, aiming to

years, and we plan to be here for the next 100 years, too. It’s important to create a

turn more local drinkers into whisky lov-

strong footprint and take people on Aber Falls’ unique journey and as such, we’ll

ers in a spirits market long dominated by

continue to educate the trade and consumers about the Welsh whisky category

baijiu makers like Kweichow Moutai Co.

and how we form part of it. This will be vital in helping drive brand advocacy and

The company has started construction of

repeat purchase – in the UK and beyond.

a 66,000-meter (217,000 foot) facility in

“This expansion is a long-term strategy for years to come – not months – to see in-

Yunnan province, aiming for completion

ternational growth for our brand, as well as an opportunity to promote brand Wales

in 2023. Its distillery will produce Diageo’s

and all it has to offer to key markets around the world.”

first Chinese-origin, single malt whisky.

distillersjournal.info

SUMMER 2022

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NEWS

FEWER ALCOHOL CONTROL MEASURES

In the withdrawal model, policymakers

finding their way into the Scottish and

turn their attention to other problems,

Irish whisky industry, it could ultimately

public health advocates struggle to jus-

affect the industry here as well.

tify proposed interventions and existing policies erode over time as industry

Numerous North American whiskey dis-

actors reassert and strengthen their

tilleries have reported this problem with

Due to a decline in youth (15-25-years-

partnerships with government around

cooperages confirming it.

old) drinking in most high-income

alcohol policy.

The problem is being caused by a

countries over the last 20-years, fewer alcohol control measures seem to be in

The authors argue that disconnects

compound of issues ranging from larger

the cards, according to a new article in

between the tobacco experience and the

distilleries ordering more barrels due to

the International Journal of Drug Policy.

reinforcement model make the withdraw-

market demand for whiskey, to coop-

Youth drinking has declined across most

al model a more plausible scenario. They

erages having a shortage of labour due

high-income countries in the last 20

conclude by suggesting some tentative

to Covid, to shipping issues meaning

years. Although researchers and com-

ways forward for public health working in

cooperages aren’t getting supplies of raw

mentators have explored the nature and

this space.

materials.

USA BARREL SHORTAGE

What is adding to the problem is, just

drivers of decline, they have paid less attention to its implications (Holmes et al 2022).

This matters, cites the authors, because

like the Covid toilet paper buying panic, distilleries are ordering two to three times their normal number of barrels to stock up in case the situation gets worse.

of the potential impact on contemporary and future public health, as well as on

American bourbon and whiskey distillers

alcohol policymaking. This new report

are facing a barrel shortage, with many

For example, Vinepair cites Cardinal

therefore considers how youth drinking

seeing either a lack of availability or a

Spirits, which seeing a fivefold increase in

trends may develop in future, what this

lengthy wait for orders to be filled.

lead times for barrels, is ordering two to three times more to ensure it will not run

would mean for public health, and what it might mean for alcohol policy and

With many of these barrels ultimately

out of supplies.

debate.

The authors argue that the decline in youth drinking is well-established and unlikely to reverse, despite smaller declines and stabilising trends in recent years. Young people also appear to be carrying their lighter drinking into adulthood in at least some countries. This suggests that we should expect large, short- and long-term public health benefits. The latter may however be obscured in population-level data by increased harm arising from earlier, heavier drinking generations moving through the highest risk points in the life course.

The likely impact of the decline in youth drinking on public and policy debate is less clear. Holms explores the possibilities using two model scenarios, the reinforcement and withdrawal models. In the reinforcement model, a ‘virtuous’ circle of falling alcohol consumption, increasing public support for alcohol control policies and apparent policy successes facilitates progressive strengthening of policy, akin to that seen in the tobacco experience.

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DISTILLERS JOURNAL

NEWS

WORLD’S FIRST MOLECULAR BEVERAGE PRINTER

Announcing the renewed focus on single

man’s Small Gin took – and now Inginious

malt and the brand redesign, Walsh

Gin – is to ramp up the flavour and make

Whiskey founder Bernard Walsh said: “As

a concentrated gin spirit. In theory then,

the Irish whiskey category continues to

consumers will require less gin – giving

develop with increasing variety, it is im-

their drinks a lower ABV – while keeping

portant that we are clear in our proposi-

all the flavour.

tion to whiskey consumers. Our message is simple: The Irishman will always be sin-

Inginious Gin says to “think big taste, but

Silicon Valley’s Cana Technology is com-

gle malt focused – whether championed

small measures”. Formulated alongside

ing out with what it says is the world’s first

in pure expressions or blends – and that

spirits experts at Sloemotion Distillery in

countertop molecular beverage printer,

it will always be triple distilled to leave a

North Yorkshire, Inginious is a concentrat-

designed to give people any beverage,

lasting impression.”

ed 43% ABV gin spirit which it said has 10

anytime.

He added: “We respect and honour

times the flavour concentration. Drinkers

Ireland’s great distilling heritage, while

then will need only a small amount then

The result of three years of research and

also exploring exciting new innovations

to create the perfect serve.

development, the beverage printer –

through the use of rare and unusual

about the size of a toaster oven ¬– can

woods and finishes, as well as cereal

Developed to “partner perfectly” with a

produce thousands of beverages, from

varieties, to influence the single malt

non-alcoholic mixer such as tonic, Ingin-

cocktails to hard seltzers to juice, to

spirit. To date this has seen us work with

ious Gin said that this distillate is “packed

coffee. Cana Technology says that sugar,

Florio Marsala, Oloroso Sherry, Caribbe-

full of responsibly sourced botanicals”.

alcohol levels, portion size and vitamins

an Rum and Irish Peated Red Ale. In the

These include the classic gin botanicals

can be customised to customers’ prefer-

generational pursuit of whiskey excel-

juniper and coriander, and a citrus blend

ences.

lence, our quest for the perfect dram, or

of lemongrass, grapefruit, and lime.

taoscán [tay-scawn] of single malt, is just Cana says that its technology can save

beginning.”

A 5ml serve, compared to the standard 50ml double serve of gin, diluted with

packaging and water by reducing the number of compounds needed to make

The most striking change in The Irishman

150ml of a non-alcoholic mixer such

a beverage and eliminating shipping.

rebrand is the introduction of a bespoke,

as tonic is the “perfect combination”,

tall, tapered bottle. All expressions in the

resulting in a familiar and fragrant Gin and

“The food and beverage industry needs

range are now sealed with a cork which

Tonic taste experience but resulting in

to be reimagined so that the world can

affirms the super-premium nature of the

only 0.2 units of alcohol per serve. A 5ml

escape carbon-intensive, trash-generat-

whiskeys. The bottle has strong whiskey

measuring spoon has also been de-

ing, 20th century centralized systems of

cues, including broad ‘shoulders’ and a

signed and comes with each purchase to

production,” says Cana CEO Matt Mahar,

tapered base. A significant feature of the

ensure a perfect Inginious serve – similar

who previously led teams for Vivint Smart

bottle is a series of embossed phrases

in concept to Hayman’s thimble. While

Home and Nike. “Our vision at Cana is

around the lower part of the bottle that

not completely alcohol free, Inginious

to make the global beverage industry

capture the essence of The Irishman’s

claimed that it significantly reduced both

sustainable with molecular printers in

focus and purpose, which is ‘to pursue a

alcohol and calorie intake without com-

every home, so people can get any drink

lifelong journey in search of the perfect

promising on taste.

they want, any time they want – without

dram/ taoscán of single malt, while

torching the planet.”

respecting past traditions and with ambi-

Simon Liddle, founder of Inginious said;

tion for future possibilities.

“For the last two years I have been

IRISHMAN WHISKEY REBRANDS

looking to cut down on alcohol for health

SMALL-MEASURE GIN ENTERS MARKET

reasons. After struggling to find a tasty, low-alcohol gin, I set about creating a concentrated gin product like no other.

With an aim of reducing the stigma surrounding lower alcohol drinks, Inginious Gin ensures that foregoing more traditional gins is a surprisingly simple choice.”

Walsh Whiskey is investing €500,000 in the rebranding between research,

A problem gin distillers have in trying to

commissioning a new bottle design,

create a low alcohol gin is keeping ‘gin’

While overall alcohol consumption is

brand redesign, packaging production

in their name. A minimum of 37.5% ABV is

expected to have declined in 2020, the

and a range of marketing initiatives. The

what the Gin Guild requires for gin, which

low- and no-alcohol market is continuing

rebrand will support the whiskey brand’s

is far from being low alcohol.

to expand, with consumption expected to grow 31 percent by 2024, according to

target of doubling sales across its 50+ markets within five years.

distillersjournal.info

An approach, however, that first Hay-

the IWSR.

SUMMER 2022

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NEWS its place at the heart of the UK’s distilling industry with the announcement of two new Italian equipment partners: Frilli and APE Impianti.

Joining AVE UK as part of the wider Della Toffola Group, the two companies represent some of the best in Italian spirit-making equipment. For the first time, “UK spirits producers can benefit from their high-quality, European equipment safe in the knowledge that local, on-theground support and servicing is available 24/7 from AVE’s UK-based team of engineers,” says AVE UK The UK represents a key marketplace for AVE’s parent company Della Toffola as, despite the interruptions that Covid-19 has brought to hospitality, the country’s distilling industry has proved remarkably resilient. Since its resurgence in 2013, gin has remained a firm favourite among British drinkers. According to the Wine and Spirit Trade Association, UK gin sales hit a record high of 80 million bottles in the year ending March 2021, up 30% on

TOBERMORY DISTILLERY’S MOUNTAIN GIN WINS

the previous 12 months. Total gin sales topped £20bn and the number of UK Production of Tobermory Gin is overseen

distilleries has almost tripled since 2016,

by Master Blender, Julieann Fernandez,

standing at 560.

and Cara Gilbert, one of the world’s youngest distillery managers.

Gin is not the UK’s only success story.

Scotch Whisky has long been one of the

In addition to this award, Tobermory’s

country’s leading exports, accounting for

Mountain Gin has previously won World’s

21% of all UK food and drink exports and

Tobermory Distillery’s Hebridean Moun-

Best Classic Gin at last year’s World Gin

generating more revenue than the entire

tain Gin has been awarded best Scottish

Awards.

British shipbuilding industry. According to the Scotch Whisky Association,

Gin at the World Gin Awards.

Competing against some of the biggest

Laura Thomson, global brand manager at

Scotland’s 134 Scotch Whisky distilleries

names in gin, the Mull distillery claimed

Tobermory Distillery said: “It’s incredible

export a total of 1.14bn bottles each year,

the ‘Country Award’ for Scotland for the

to impress the World Gin Award judges

with a value of £3.8bn.

gin which is infused with hand-selected

for a second year in a row. Every bottle

botanicals alongside a splash of new

transports drinkers to our beautiful island

As part of the Della Toffola Group, AVE

make spirit from the distillery’s whisky

where this gin takes its inspiration. From

UK is uniquely placed to leverage the

stills. Wild heather from the island’s

the wild purple heather clad mountains

processing, labelling, packaging and bot-

mountains complements rowan berry,

to the dash of new make spirit from our

tling expertise of its European equipment

rosehip and 10 other botanicals inspired

whisky stills, the smooth and refreshing

partners, which cover all facets of the

by Mull, to create a gin which is smooth

gin represents the very best of Mull.

food and beverage sector. With the introduction of Frilli and APE Impianti, it can

and sweet with a gently warming spice.

The distillery’s small batch gin is wholly inspired by its beautiful island home on the Inner Hebrides and can be enjoyed

AVE UK SIGNS ITALIAN DEAL

now offer complete, full-line processing and packaging systems to the country’s growing number of spirit producers, as well as individual equipment solutions, ensuring that the UK’s distilling industry

as a delicious gin and tonic or used as a base ingredient for an enticing selection

AVE UK, a supplier of bottling and pack-

remains synonymous with quality and

of cocktails.

aging machinery, says it has cemented

craftsmanship for years to come.

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SUMMER 2022

DISTILLERS JOURNAL

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NEWS

SUPERMARKETS SAY ‘NYET’ TO RUSSIAN VODKA Sainsbury’s, Aldi, Asda and Waitrose have all announced they will axe Russian products amid the war in Ukraine. This will include Russian vodka.

According to the BBC, Sainsbury’s will remove Russian Standard vodka and from its shelves. Waitrose, which is part of the John Lewis Partnership, will no longer sell Russian vodka either.

Asda’s announcement will apply to about 100 products – mostly spirits, but also includes fish and some sweets.

The supermarkets follow moves from the

the right person for the right job, driving

a platform for future expansion at the

likes of Morrisons and Co-op, which said

up performance and improving diversity

family run farm which raises sheep and

that they would withdraw Russian-made

and inclusivity.”

poultry.

Pietras Continued: “Since our team is

Like many other new whisky distilleries, a

comprised of both UK, and Polish talent,

gin and vodka distillation still will be run

including engineers, professors, IT pro-

alongside the whisky still to create addi-

fessionals, and recruitment experts, as

tional income and allow those behind the

well as both markets being very similar

project to develop and market the brand

in nature regarding recruitment practices

while the malt matures for a minimum of

and turnover rates, we felt that these

three years.

vodka from sale.

AI RECRUITMENT TOOL TO PLUG DISTILLING SKILLS GAP AI recruitment firm IntRec has launched

were the best markets for us to launch in, with plans to open offices in two addition-

A spokesperson for Knockhill Distillery

al countries by the end of the year. This is

said the business plan submitted

just the very beginning for us, and we see

alongside the application demonstrates

IntRec positioned as a leader in this new,

the business will be both “viable and

AI driven market.”

sustainable”.

into the UK and Polish distilling markets.

They said: “This plan shows that Knock-

Its AI software aims to create a more flexible hiring process, helping tackle the skills shortage in the distilling sector.

“During a time of enormous talent shortage and high turnover, we are excited to offer clients a technology solution that offers Potential Personality Image & Emotion based Recruitment,” says Pawel Pietras, CEO of IntRec. “The IntRec Recruitment Solution moves recruitment away from using the traditional CV and interview-based system of assessment.

SCOTTISH KNOCKHILL SUBMITS PLANS FOR CARBON NEUTRAL DISTILLERY

hill Distillery has the potential to be successful, will immediately provide rural employment opportunities to local fabrication, plumbing and electrical firms, will provide up to 11 staff roles including trainee positions and has the possibility of creating a Fife tourist facility in the future with further employment opportunities.

“We aim to operate as a carbon-neutral business from the outset and will adhere a strong requisite to purchase and support local producers.”

Our AI software introduces a more flexible framework which assesses candi-

If approved, a new distillery will be

dates against a range of elements using

opening up at Din Moss Farm, near

Wood on the farm will be used as fuel for

a variety of selection methods. This will

Dunfermline, with the distillery having the

the distillery.

give the best possible chance of finding

potential to create 11 new jobs and build

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SUMMER 2022

DISTILLERS JOURNAL

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COMMENT

SPEED TO MARKET IN THE BEVERAGE INDUSTRY

SHOULD YOU INVEST IN YOUR OWN FILLING AND PACKAGING EQUIPMENT OR OUTSOURCE? STEVE SENA, VICE PRESIDENT OF BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT AT THE GLOBAL PACKAGING SERVICES COMPANY TRUVANT, TACKLES THIS QUESTION BASED ON HIS 30-YEARS OF INDUSTRY EXPERIENCE

distillersjournal.info

F

or decades I’ve been fascinated by the carbonated soft drink beverage supply chain that has been around for over a century. The brand

owners (i.e., owners of the formulation IP) centrally produced concentrated syrups in mass quantities to be distributed to regional bottling franchisees, who were “licensed” independent business people.

It was the regional bottling companies that diluted, carbonated, and bottled the drink closer to the customer and retail

Steve Stena of Truvant

outlets. This made absolute sense since it seems crazy and expensive to move so much water around the country to meet the demand from their loyal consumers.

inventory turns, and still did not maximise

It also enabled an efficient reverse supply

sales by having the right product in the

chain for bottles to be returned, washed,

right place at the right time. As with many

and re-used again and again. Consumers

of society’s or business challenges, we

were incentivised to return bottles after

can look to the past for some ideas on

consumption for that nominal little fee

how to change paradigms. So that’s what

embossed on the glass. If consumers

my organisation has set out to do.

ignored that opportunity, garbage pickers were happy to collect the bounty!

In my own observation of the brewing and distilling industry I see some

Today, this exact delivery model is called

interesting dynamics. I don’t know about

postponement and we have applied it

you, but in my town, there seems to

from anything from shaving products

be a lot of small, independent brewers

to home improvement products to

and distillers popping up everywhere.

children’s toys. Something had to change

Consumers are lapping up the products

due to the new supply chain challenges

these entrepreneurs produce because

that have emerged over the last couple

they offer variety, innovation, identity, and

decades: far away manufacturing centres

an experience.

and the explosion of retail channels requiring different packaging formats.

Will you pay more than the massproduced alternatives? Of course! I

Forecasting demand months ahead

would argue that you get more too. Mass

of time for manufacturing and storing

production creates so many economies

product in massive warehouses only

of scale that drive the cost down

bloated supply chains, lessened

tremendously, but they will still have to

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COMMENT

cooperatives, etc. to achieve steady

move a lot of water around the country.

growth in your markets.

I doubt that brewers or distillers will be

So where am I going with all of this

able to move “concentrates” around the

history and personal observation? In

country like the soda pop predecessors.

the long term, I really don’t know what

Seek out shared-use partners to

is going to shake out – nobody does. It

outsource these functions (in their real

So how are small-batch brewers and

is safe to say that independent brewers

estate or embedded in yours.) If you take

distillers going to expand their markets

and distillers will continue to innovate

it on within your own company, you’ll

- and therefore distribution - like the big

and grow, with the hope of getting their

be one of many people wasting time by

multi-nationals? The big boys have their

brand, product, or whole company

creating the very same wheel and you

own bottling and packaging facilities,

bought by one of the big boys.

will get bogged down with complexity so profound you will lose your focus on what

their own warehouses, their own trucks, and buy ingredients and packaging on a

There are also ways to generate buzz

YOUR core competency really is – an

massive scale. All that limits flexibility and

about your product, create some scarcity

adult beverage everybody wants.

innovation.

in lockstep with high demand, and grind your way through to more consumers.

The small and mid-size brands will have

What will not change is the complexity

to outsource those functions to 3rd

of predicting what to produce, how to

parties who specialise in each area. It

package it, how to use promotions,

does not make sense to buy all your own

and how to get it to all the possible

equipment and assets only to have them

retail channels. But since you’re selling

sit idle for 80 percent of the time. Being

anti-scale products, you’re going to

flexible is of paramount importance.

have to create your own partnerships,

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DISTILLERS JOURNAL

DistilaBact

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COMMENT

PROPOSED RULES TO TIGHTEN NON-ALCOHOLIC DRINK ADVERTISING IF YOU’RE SELLING YOUR NON-ALCOHOLIC DRINKS LIKE ALCOHOLIC ONES – EVEN THOUGH THERE IS NOT ONE DROP OF ETHANOL IN IT – YOU MIGHT SOON BE FALLING UNDER THE SAME REGULATIONS AS ALCOHOLIC DRINKS

I

t’s hard not seeing this as a nanny-

responsibly and how they intersect with

state out of control.

alcoholic products covered by the Codes.

You make a non-alcoholic drink.

You don’t want it confused with

Low- and no-alcohol products are

a soft drink or a kiddie drink, you

increasing in popularity and are no

want it for the adult market, for those

longer a niche category; this includes

looking to eliminate or cut back on their

alcohol-free products that are specifically

alcohol consumption, but still want a

designed to provide a direct alternative to

drink.

standard alcoholic drinks. The market for

So, you don’t market it with unicorns or

these products has increased markedly

clowns on the bottle, you don’t make it

over the last two years and the amount

looking like a sports drink, you market it

of advertising has, naturally, followed this

as an adult drink. Well, if propose new

pattern.

rules are approved, you might as well put alcohol in it for that’s what marketing

When the alcohol rules in the CAP and

rules you’ll be under.

BCAP Codes were developed, the zeroalcohol market was small and relatively

The Committee of Advertising Practice

niche, with little marketing. As such, it

(CAP), author of the UK Code of Non-

was unnecessary to consider in great

broadcast Advertising and Direct &

detail the way in which such products

Promotional Marketing (CAP Code) and

should be marketed. However, the

the Broadcast Committee of Advertising

increase since then has led to sufficient

Practice (BCAP), author of the UK Code

marketing activity that new rules and

of Broadcast Advertising (BCAP Code)

guidance would clearly be helpful

are now consulting on new rules and

to advertisers and provide suitable

guidance to regulate the advertising of

protection to consumers.

alcohol alternative products.

What makes it almost as confusing as

Public health guidance is clear that

their initials, both CAP and BCAP are

reducing alcohol intake is beneficial, and

proposing slightly different rules.

the alcohol alternative market is one of the elements that makes this easier for

BACKGROUND

consumers. As such, CAP and BCAP consider that it is important for the rules

With the increase in popularity of

on alcohol alternatives to recognise the

alcohol-free alternatives to alcoholic

benefits of these products and enable

drinks, CAP and BCAP consider that the

marketers to encourage reducing alcohol

marketing industry and the public would

intake in as many ways as possible,

benefit from new rules and guidance

provided those ways are responsible.

to bring clarity to how these products

distillersjournal.info

should be marketed.

Advertising for alcohol alternatives

Although the products are considered

often includes imagery that resembles

to be non-alcoholic, ads for them often

alcoholic products, references to

use imagery redolent of alcohol and

situations where alcohol is likely to be

often mention drinking occasions. As

consumed, explicit references to reasons

such, CAP and BCAP have considered

not to drink, and mention of their lack of

how these products should be marketed

alcoholic strength.

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COMMENT

Market a non-alcoholic beverage for adults and pay the price

Therefore, CAP and BCAP considered

contexts where they would normally be

is likely to consider it as such, with criteria

that they have sufficient overlap with

consumed, for example non-alcoholic

specified in the guidance.

alcohol marketing to require careful

beer.

analysis of how they can be marketed

You make a non-alcoholic drink, which

responsibly.

In relation to advertising content in

doesn’t pretend to be anything except

Because the extremely low alcoholic

particular, specific drink or range of drinks

what it is and that is how you market

strength of alcohol alternatives means

is an alcohol alternative if the audience is

it. But show it being mixed with tonic

that they are incapable of intoxicating

likely to consider it as such; it will depend

water or say it’s ideal for Dry January

consumers and their risk profile is

on the context and presentation of the

or anything like that – suddenly your

therefore significantly reduced, CAP and

product in the ad.

beverage is going to fall under marketing

BCAP determined that it would be overly

regulations for alcoholic drinks.

restrictive to bring all ads for them under

As many drinks may be considered to

the full scope of the Alcohol sections of

be alcohol free and, thus, a potential

The irony of this, there are no laws

the Codes.

alternative to alcohol, it is insufficiently

forbidding those under 18 from buying

specific to define alcohol alternatives

a beverage considered to be non-

Instead, the proposal is for rules that

simply as ‘drinks at or below 0.5% ABV’.

alcoholic. Forbidding minors from buying

deal with any references to alcohol,

Instead, CAP and BCAP’s proposed

a bottle of Clean G would be like banning

specific alcoholic products, brands and/

definition aims to include only those

them from buying a bottle of Coke.

or behaviours connected to alcohol

drinks that are presented as direct

consumption or the culture surrounding

alternatives to alcohol, largely to be

If CAP and BCAP are seeing these non-

it. CAP and BCAP also considered

consumed in the same or very similar

alcoholic drinks as gateway beverages,

how the ABVs of alcohol alternatives

contexts as alcohol.

that drinking Clean G leads youths to

should be conveyed to consumers, and

drinking Anno’s Extreme 95, by the

the issues surrounding targeting and

This includes criteria such as branding,

same token, does drinking Coke lead to

scheduling ads away from under-18s.

the way a drink is presented (e.g., in beer

drinking Jack & Coke? Does drinking Red

glasses or cocktail shakers) and the way

Bull lead to Red Bull & vodka?

CAP and BCAP understand that there

it is described (such as the difference

is no statutory definition of alcohol

between a ‘pineapple and coconut

The proposed rules have now entered

alternatives but consider that alcohol

juice drink’ and a ‘virgin pina colada’).

the consultation period. For those who

alternatives are non-alcoholic drinks

Therefore, the overall principle is that

wish to make a comment, you have until

(those at or under 0.5% ABV) that are

a specific drink or range of drinks is an

5 May 2022.

intended to replace alcoholic drinks in

alcohol alternative if a reasonable person

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DISTILLERS JOURNAL

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KIRSTY BLACK

PLANT NERD MEDICAL DEVICES BEER SCIENCE AWARDS and GIN

A TRUE DISTILLING MASTER NEEDS TO BE EXPERIENCED IN SCIENCE, TECHNOLOGY, AND MATHEMATICS, WITH A FLAIR FOR CREATIVITY. IT SOUNDS VERY MUCH LIKE A RENAISSANCE PERSON – JUST LIKE KIRSTY BLACK WHO IS CONSIDERED TO BE ONE OF THE WORLD’S TOP 10 FEMALE DISTILLERS. VELO MITROVICH REPORTS

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T

oday when we look back at

nothing quite as dramatic.

Renaissance greats, what seems to have set them

“I lived in Switzerland at that point and

apart from the common

was happily working in the medical

person was their interest in

device industry, but then somehow

a multitude of many things and the ability

stumbled upon Heriot-Watt University,

to connect all the dots together.

their website, and saw their courses,” she tells Distiller Journal.

But back in their time, you have to wonder if da Vinci parents would shake

“It really caught my interest and I thought

their heads and say to each other: “Oh,

I’d apply. Worst case, I’d get accepted,

Leonardo is such a bright boy, too bad he

go, take a year out, and then go back

can’t stick to just one thing.”

to the medical device industry. But best case, it would put me on to the road of

Arbikie Highland Estate’s master distiller,

something entirely new and exciting!”

Kirsty Black, must have been cut from the same Renaissance cloth for you too

BEER NOT SPIRITS

have to wonder if her family and friends think the same about her.

Considering where Black is working today and the awards she has won, you’d

After completing her degree in Plant

assume that it was distilling that brought

Science and a diploma in Forensic

her to Heriot-Watt, but it was beer

Science, the Scottish native moved to

instead.

Switzerland and was a quality engineer in the medical device industry, working

“No, controversially, it was brewing that

with diabetes monitoring and pregnancy

took me there, I’d been doing a bit home

test kits. It was a good job, a good career,

brewing and then when I moved to

but…a change was needed.

Edinburgh, I got myself some part time jobs in two different breweries,” says

However, if you think there must

Black. These were Caledonian Brewery

have been a sudden blinding Road to

along with Barney’s Beer.

Damascus moment and a loud voice saying alcohol was her future, there was

“With Heriot Watt syllabus, the first half of

DISTILLERS JOURNAL

THE BIG INTERVIEW

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DISTILLERS JOURNAL

THE BIG INTERVIEW Arbikie is a true farm to bottle distillery, either growing or collecting nearby the ingredients needed for its spirits

the year you study brewing, so I was fully involved in the intricacies of brewing, and then it’s in the second half of the year that you go into distilling. And for me, that was like: Hold on a minute, what’s going on here? What’s this magic? And that’s when I really got into distilling.”

But unlike some who go into distilling because of a love of alcohol, with Black it was much more than that.

“Absolutely, for me, I think it comes from a love of plants. I originally studied plant science, I’m a bit of a plant nerd. And everything in all alcohol is about the plant and the raw material. So, you really need to know what’s going on inside them and inside each of those little grains,” she says.

“If you’re wanting to make the flavour of spirit like gin, you need to be able to look at all those plants that kind of look the same – they’re just green plants – but realise that some of them are packed full of really varied and interesting flavours.”

And indeed, Black says for her one of the big attractions of distilling is the combination of science, mathematics, food and drink, and creativity, giving what she says is a perfect combination of “all sorts of things that make distilling such an interesting and balanced job”.

But one thing that Black is quick to point out is there is so much more to distilling than what you learn in a university.

Luckily, she says that in the industry people are quick to help each other and pass on knowledge and experience.

“I’m never shy of admitting when I don’t know things and that there’s people out there that have much more experience or knowledge than myself,” she says.

“That’s one of the great things I find about the distilling industry, that is full of people who are willing to share and are excited about what we do and want to help each other. Here in Scotland, we’ve got the Institute of Brewing & Distilling and the Scottish Distillers Association. There are great support networks out there on and are willing to help.”

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Black designed the distillery to be very manual, making it easier to handle all sorts of raw materials

THE BIG INTERVIEW

First, they were planning on distilling gin

work here. I don’t know why they picked

Black finished her studies at Heriot-Watt,

and vodka – using farm potatoes for the

me, and I often joke that I don’t know

graduating in Brewing & Distilling and

spirit base – then as experience grew, to

who was craziest – if it was me for saying

obtaining an MSc with distinction, the

move on to whisky.

that I could do it, or them for thinking that I could. But luckily, it’s all worked

Watt Club Postgraduate Medal for Best in School, and the Brewers Company Prize

However, along with not having a

out. But yeah, until then, I had never built

for Best in Class.

distillery, experience was another thing

a distillery. That’s something you’re not

they lacked. What they did have was

taught at university.”

ARBIKIE HIGHLAND ESTATE

an “ancient barn” to put a distillery – as it’s described on the Arbikie website –

Black was given a blank canvas to create

While Black was still studying, it was

although Black referrers to it as being a

the distillery, the same done with the

through Heriot-Watt University she got

big empty shed.

recipe, except for the key idea being that the farm would be the heart of

her first distilling job with Pickering’s Gin Distillery.

“I think they realised they had all the key

Her good fortune stayed with her. Iain

elements they needed to distil – they

Stirling was visiting Heriot-Watt trying

were fourth generation farmers. They

“Everything that we make has to have

to find a graduate student interested in

owned a farm with a usable building and

the raw materials grown on the farm. And

developing a very specific gin recipe and

site, and they had experience working

if we want to make something new, we

the university recommended that he talk

with drinks brands – they already had a

have to figure out if we can physically

to Black.

marketing company which had worked

grow it here; our first product was the

with a number of spirit brands. So, they

perfect example of this,” says Black.

everything Black would do.

Iain Stirling, who with his two brothers,

had all these elements, the only things

John and David, own the Arbikie

they were missing were the actual

In what is now referred to as a “circular

Highland Estate on the east coast of

distilling equipment and the people to

economy distillery”, John Stirling says

Angus.

work it.

that not only would this philosophy help reduce farm waste, promote cleaner

The brothers, fourth generation farmers, had a dream of building a distillery on

“Iain approached the university and asked

farms, and reduce their environmental

the farm and then using the farm crops

a professor if there was a student who

footprints, but would also help the

for the spirits, a literal farm-to-bottle

could work or do their master’s project on

Scottish gin industry make their spirits

operation.

developing a Scottish gin. That professor

from Scottish-grown crops.

picked me and then that just led on to

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THE BIG INTERVIEW

SPUDS MAKE THE DRINK

and peas as well for a base spirit, but it’s about us being able to trace and control

The first example of this at Arkbikie

all the steps to be a sustainable distillery.

Distillery was with potatoes.

We’ve been able to control all the way

“In the UK, supermarkets demand a certain grade and appearance of potatoes, with those not meeting the cut by being called a ‘wonky potato’, not wanted – there is a huge amount of waste. But, being on a farm, we know that they still take as much effort to produce as those perfectly appearing ones,” says Black.

“The driver of our first product was to make something more out of these wonky potatoes, to show their true

I don’t know who was craziest – if it was me for saying that I could do it, or them for thinking that I could.” Kirsty Black

from where and how we make our spirits to the flavouring that goes into gin, giving us control over all of the process.”

Arkbikie’s second spirit produced is its Kirsty’s Gin, named after the distiller.

It gained immediate recognition for its smooth taste and balanced use of botanicals, winning medals at several international spirits events.

“Not many distillers get the chance to have a drink named after them, so I hope

value. We turned them into vodka

all the gin enthusiasts out there enjoy

and our first product was Tattie Bogle

drinking it as much as I enjoyed making

Vodka, Scotland’s first potato vodka. [A

it,” she says.

‘Tattie Bogle’ was a scarecrow put into a Scottish potato field.]

In creating the flavours for Arkbikie’s gin

“From there, we’ve gone on to use wheat

and vodkas, Black says you don’t have to

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THE BIG INTERVIEW

GARDEN PEA GIN In creating the world’s first climate-positive spirit of any kind, avowed plantnerd and master distiller Kirsty Black has turned to the simple garden pea, a discovery she made while working on her five-year PhD studies.

That’s right, when people drink Arkbikie Distillery’s popular Nàdar gin (Celtic for nature), they’re drinking something Birdseye would approve. Too bad it doesn’t count as one of our five-a-day vegetables.

The problem with all grains is that the way they are usually farmed, they take more from the soil than they give back. Wheat is typically used to make gin’s base spirit but due to industrial farming, it requires large amounts of artificial nitrogen-based fertilizers, which are major contributors to greenhouse emissions.

Indeed, a 2017 study found that 43 percent of a loaf of bread’s carbon footprint came from the ammonium nitrate used to grow the wheat.

In addition, fertilizer run-off from these fields results in high levels of nitrogen entering waterways.

According to US NOAA, the annual Gulf of Mexico dead zone is primarily caused by excess nutrient pollution coming from the Mississippi River watershed.

When the excess nutrients reach the Gulf, they stimulate an overgrowth of algae, which eventually die and decompose, depleting oxygen as they sink to the bottom. The resulting low oxygen levels near the bottom of the Gulf cannot support most marine life. The Gulf of Mexico dead zone – measuring over 5,000 square miles – occurs every summer.

But the humble garden pea and other legumes source their nitrogen from the look any further than out the window at

air, a process known as “biological nitrogen fixation, and require no nitrogen fer-

the distillery. She says that the flavours

tilizers. Not only do legumes not need fertilizing, but they can also be planted

involve capturing the sea, the shore and

alongside other crops, sharing their nitrogen and reducing the need for those

the land that surrounds the farm. These

crops to be fertilized too.

flavours include juniper, kelp, Carline Thistle, Scottish blaeberrys (same genus

The production and distillation process with peas is the same as for any other

family as the blueberry), and other

kind of alcohol, with the starch from the peas removed, broken down, ferment-

botanicals.

ed, and then distilled – there is no pea flavour or colour remaining. The peas used are a British-grown variety from Hodmedod’s, a UK company which works

Of all the botanicals, the three most

with British farmers to grow and provide markets with locally produced beans.

important ones for Arkbikie are: Atlantic Oarweed; Carline Thistle root, and

Black conducted her research at Abertay University and the James Hutton

blaeberrys.

Institute, with her PhD examining the potential of pulses as an environmentally sustainable feedstock to the brewing and distilling industries.

“The seaweed we use grows widely around the coast of Scotland. Oarweed

But the big question is, how does it taste?

brings coastal, salty notes to our gin capturing the sea which we sit and look

The Scottish Gin Society verdict is: “A climate positive gin made from peas,

out onto everyday across Lunan Bay.

but does it deliver on taste? The simple answer is, of course, yes. The team at

The sea is a presence that envelops

Arbikie know how to make a great gin and Nàdar Gin is no exception. Delight-

our distillery, so it is a very important

fully smooth, this spirit is full of zesty citrus flavours. We tried it with tonic and a

botanical in our gin,” she says.

simple slice of lemon on a warm sunny afternoon and it was perfectly refresh-

Carline Thistle root is a shoreline plant

ing, delivering a fantastic fruity punch! And we were helping save the planet!”

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THE BIG INTERVIEW

with a distinctive daisy-like flower. It

“The distillery itself and the wash still

try and break down those assumptions

grows close by on the rocky, sandier soils

is 4,000 or 5000 litres, the spirits still

that are made purely on gender.

and Black uses the root to add warm,

2,400. We then also got a rectification

aromatic notes to the gin.

column for making our base spirits and

“I have experienced plenty of people

Scottish blaeberries grow in abundance

a Metalizer column as well. Everything’s

walking in here and asking to speak to

close to the distillery. Black finds that

done on site from mashing, maturation

the man in charge and things like that,

the small purple berries add a warm,

and bottling; all happen within this one

ignoring me and walking right past me.

rounded, middle notes to the gin.

building. And production? There’s just

Luckily, I’ve got the owners support and

“We really want to start using the crops

four of us. I know we’re busy. We’re busy

if anybody does come in here and does

are grown on the farm, and things that

beings.”

that, we just choose not to work with them.

we have an excess of or have a different grade. Right now they are the only

A WOMAN’S WORLD “I realise how lucky I had been prior to

Scottish distiller making a rye whisky and in fact, theirs in the first Scottish rye

Spirits Business Magazine declared Black

here, going through school, university,

whisky that has been released in over

as one of the top 10 female master

and beyond, I’d never have to question

100 years. Because it is not widely grown

distillers in the world. The question is,

whether I was capable of doing

in the Scotland, Arkbikie had to source

does Black see herself as a master

something because of my gender.

the seeds and then grow the rye.

distiller or as a female master distiller?

This is the first time I’ve met that kind

Black designed the distillery to be very

“I’m not really a big fan of titles, yes,

people that are willing to support and

manual. “We can disconnect all the hoses

whatever people want to call me. I

be open and helpful in the industry than

and reconfigure it, making it easier to

prefer not to be defined or prefix with

those that are not so, and they’ve all

handle all sorts of raw materials,” she

my gender. But until it’s understood and

helped me get where I am today. For

says, from peas and potatoes, all the way

normalised that woman can do whatever

any woman thinking about going into

through to different cereals.

job they like, these sorts of things are

distilling, I say just do it.”

of viewpoint, but luckily there’s more

necessary and help raise awareness and

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DISTILLERS JOURNAL

AlcoTest

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Alice Pearson, Lead NPD Distiller, Cotswolds Distillery

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www.qclscientific.com 01342 820820 Distillers Journal January 2022.indd 1

18/01/2022 10:56:50

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W W W . H E R B E R T W A L K E R S . C O . U K

ASK THE BARTENDER

ASK A BARTENDER ABOUT:

TEQUILA & MEZCAL

IN TRYING TO FIGURE OUT THE NEXT BIG THING, YOU CAN TALK TO DISTILLERS, OR YOU CAN TALK TO THOSE POURING FOR CUSTOMERS, BARTENDERS. PICK A QUIET NIGHT, PULL UP A STOOL, AND FIND OUT WHAT PEOPLE ARE DRINKING.

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W

hy are we talking

Mexican, be that food, beer, or mezcal,

about tequila and

along with innovation from tequila

mezcal? The last

producers themselves. These factors are

time you probably

influential, but Hermoso points to the

checked, there

emergence of a cocktail culture in and

were no fields of agave growing near

out of the home as being imperative.

Lincoln, no donkeys in Scotland pulling

What is notable about the rise of the

stone wheels to crush the plant, and

tequila category is the rapid pace of

absolutely zero bottlers coming out with

premiumisation. Hermoso explains

El Cornwall Mezcal.

why the premiumisation process is happening so quickly: “Unlike cognac

So, again, why do tequilas and mezcal

or Scotch, where premium segments

have our interest? If you’re making,

are well established due to ageing

importing, or distributing vodka, you have

legislations and trade bodies’ standards,

seen your sales hit by the two Mexican

tequila is pretty new to offering premium

drinks. With Russia’s invasion of Ukraine,

alternatives.” Consequently, there are

vodka drinking will only become more

gaps in the higher end of the tequila

unpopular – no matter where it’s made.

market to be exploited.

Globally, the tequila market has increased by 22 percent since 2014, with

Hermoso gives credit to the role that

the ‘premium and above’ price segments

Patrón Tequila has played in stimulating

captured by the IWSR showing a volume

the rise of top end tequilas: he believes

sales increase of 64 percent.

that Patrón did for tequila what Grey Goose has done for vodka in the US,

Results from the IWSR show that the

inspiring a wave of higher tier products

global market for tequila remains on a

and raising the profile of the category

strong upward curve. Last year, volumes

in the eyes of consumers. Following

increased by five percent and value by

Patrón’s lead, market leaders in the spirits

as much as 11 percent. The challenge for

sector have shifted their strategies in the

the tequila industry will be to break out of

hope of replicating the same results in

its US and Mexican heartlands, which five

the tequila category.

years ago accounted for 83 percent of consumption and now make up nearly 85

For the tequila category to develop in

percent of worldwide sales.

markets like these and afar, the category needs to shake off the perception that

Of the two main markets, the US is the

its chief consumption occasion is as a

predominant driver with sales volumes

cheap ‘shooter’ on a night out. Changing

having risen by as much as 30 percent

attitudes to alcohol among younger

since 2014. The progress of tequila in the

drinkers are making the concept of ‘shots’

US has even been significant enough

increasingly dated.

to stunt the development of the vodka category.

All is not perfect, however, in the land of the Tequila Sunrise. Success and

Jose Luis Hermoso, IWSR research

demand are driving up the cost of blue

Director for South America, accredits

agave in the regions of Mexico where

part of the rising demand in the USA

tequila can be produced. While fields are

to the expanding Hispanic population

being recklessly planted, agave grows

and growing public interest in all things

slowly in the desert and, indeed, of all

DISTILLERS JOURNAL

ASK A BARTENDER

spirit raw ingredients, it takes the longest to mature.

In the meantime, however, it is the drink

CAMARÁN COCKTAIL

of the moment.

A reimagining of the 1920s unsung hero, that is the Camerons kick which is a blend “I think early in my career there were less

of Scotch and Irish whiskey, orgeat and lemon. This substitutes mezcal and tequila

options besides the standard mix or shot

for the whisky and is delicious:

for drinking tequila, but as we consumers have been more driven by provenance,

30ml Tequila

ingredients, and want quality-driven

30ml Mezcal

spirits, the choice has exploded,” says

22.5ml Lemon

Carl Anthony Brown, award winning

15ml Orgeat Syrup

bartender. “Drinkers in general have become more discerning and engaged

Carl Anthony Brown, is an award-winning bartender, mixologist and TV drink’s

less about the quantity but more focused

expert. Some of Carl’s accolades include winner of ‘The Young British Foodies’,

on quality.”

IMBIBE ‘Drinks List of the Year and many more. He’s worked for 18 years in the bar and drinks industry, including creating the drinks concept across the Dishoom

For making cocktails, there is confusion

group. His latest venture has been launching the alcohol-free spirit, Crossip in

between tequila and mezcal [see

2020.

Pensador in this issue for clarification].

He is best described as a man who is seldom without an opinion.

Many wonder if the two spirits are

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33

ASK A BARTENDER interchangeable in cocktails or are there

involved with tequila such as George

distinct differences?

Clooney and his Casamigos brand.

Overblown hype or a decent tequila?

“They can be interchangeable but will give a different complexity to the drink.

“I think there are two questions here. Of

Because of the production of mezcal

course, any celebrity brand is going to

there is invariably a smoky note and

have the reach of the celeb as well as the

also the base agave can be varied

liquid so is going to be trusted by their

which will present different notes,” says

followers based on them rather than the

Brown. “On the other hand, tequila tends

tequila. But that doesn’t necessarily mean

to be a cleaner flavour because of the

the tequila is bad.

production and then affected by ageing.

“There are many rules and regulations

So, you can make a great margarita with

in tequila’s production also. Trust me, I

both of them, but they will be slightly

doubt you will find George Clooney at

different,” adding that you can split

the coalface. Invariably the celebs will be

the base of a cocktail with mezcal and

working with producers to create their

tequila, which will give you interesting

tequila.”

base flavour profiles and nuances.

Which tequila brands stand out for you?

With tequila, some bars have bottles of Blanco (white), Reposado (rested) and

“Tough question as it’s all about occasion,

Anejo (aged) on the shelf. Is this overkill?

personal taste, and style of drink. Aim

Carl Anthony Brown says when it comes to tequila and mezcal – as with all spirts – you should create your own rules.

for 100 percent agave and producers “I think it depends on what you have on

who are transparent in methods and

your menu. I am a big fan of stocking

provenance. Ocho, Herradura, Casa

what you can sell. Blanco and Reposado

Dragones, Tapatio, Fortaleza, Tiempo –

are great for different styles of drinks

there are too many to count! Stuff like El

and cocktails. But Anejo can be quite

Rayo and Storywood is interesting and

an investment and mainly for sipping –

takes a more contemporary approach,

maybe an agave old fashioned at a push.

concentrating on finishing and mixing.”

So, make sure you have a clientele who is willing to enjoy it before you invest.”

And the same question for mezcal.

Which cocktails worked best with tequila,

“Mezcal is great to explore base

and which work best with mezcal?

ingredients and can be way more varied than tequila so explore different styles

“Certainly, there is no one size fits all rule

of agave and blends – ensambles.

here but if you are making fun, party style

QuiQuiRiQui, Del Maguey, Pensador, Lost

drinks such as Palomas or Margaritas,

Explorer, Boza, but the category is too

then for me tequila is best. There are

varied to have a ‘favourite’.”

many flavour complexities to mezcal so finding recipes that accentuate them are

When created your non-alcoholic Dandy

always great. But I would always promote

Smoke – one of three Crossip flavours

experimentation and self-expression

– were you thinking about the smoky

when making a drink so create your own

flavour of mezcal?

rules.

“Crossip was always about styles of It’s hard thinking of any tequila or mezcal

drink and flavour rather than imitations.

mixer besides citrus, but this means you

Dandys inspirations came from a

are selling the spirits short.

variety of products like whisky, rum as well as mezcal. But ultimately it was

“Citrus is great, obviously but there are

about making drinks like sours, bucks

so many nuances of flavour you can tap

and orchard, cola, or ginger flavours. It

into. Try an Anejo Tequila and Dandelion

probably couldn’t be used measure for

& Burdock…. Amazing!”

measure in replacing mezcal in a cocktail.

All of Crossips drinks are reimaginations

There seems to be quite a few celebrities

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SUMMER 2022

rather than recreations.”

DISTILLERS JOURNAL

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ENSADOR

IT WAS ALWAYS GOING TO BE A CRAZY IDEA

CAN A ONE-MANBAND CHALLENGE THE DRINKING HABITS OF THE BRITISH PUBLIC WHEN IT COMES TO MEXICAN SPIRITS? FORGET CELEBRITY TEQUILA, DOING SHOTS, AND GETTING CONFUSED AS TO WHETHER ITS SALT-TEQUILALIME, LICK-SIP-SUCK, OR SUCK-SIP-LICK, BENJAMIN SCHRODER WILL HAVE US ALL DRINKING MEZCAL, THE REAL THING. VELO MITROVICH REPORTS

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SUMMER 2022

I

s the story here about Ben

beyond belief until back in the UK and

Schroder, mezcal, his mezcal

away from the sea, sun, and surf, crack a

import company Pensador, or

bottle open and find it to be on a par with

the small craft spirit producers of

drinking diesel.

southern Mexico? If Peter Jackson

was producing this, each idea would be

“It was almost the opposite way around

its own feature-length film, ultimately tied

in that my idea to start the brand and my

together in part-six with 18 hours of film.

real passion for the category was really ignited in London following my first trip,”

Jackson, prone to exaggerating

says Schroder. “I went to Mexico in 2015

characters, would probably turn 30-year-

for the first time and that was the first

old Schroder into a Victorian adventurer/

time I’d encountered mezcal. And I drank

hero who sets off into very rural Mexico,

a lot on that trip. And I was really into it.

armed with only confidence; at a level

And I loved it.

that 99 percent of us lack. The thing is, that would actually be pretty close to the

“At the back of my mind I had this feeling

mark, so let’s begin with Ben.

that maybe this would be only a holiday thing, but I filled my bag with bottles and

During the summer of 2015, Schroder

came back to London. There wasn’t a lot

was in Mexico City on holiday when he

of mezcal around, most of my friends had

first tasted mezcal. The attraction was

a taco before they had even heard of it.

instant and overwhelming, he became a believer and disciple of the fermented

“So, I had this thing, which was very

agave spirit.

unusual. It tasted like nothing no one ever tried before. And it was just really

Not knowing Spanish, having no

exciting sharing it with people. And I also

contacts, and being slightly oblivious to

found that far from being away from

the potential dangers in rural Mexico, he

that country and no longer liking the

did the opposite of what any of the rest

taste, what I really had was whenever I

of us would have done. Like a Spanish

drank mezcal, it transported me back to

conquistador searching for the mythical

Mexico. And I loved that those two things

El Dorado, for the next two months he

that were really becoming intrinsic in me,

went around southern Mexico, trying to

so I wanted to start the brand,” he says.

learn all he could about mezcal, always looking ahead to the next turn of the

Like someone flushed with religious

road, looking for that potential greatest

fervour, Schroder introduced family and

mezcal distiller ever.

friends to mezcal and then he made the big decision. He’d go back Oaxaca and

Now the majority of us when we have

become an importer of mezcal. Despite

a spirit on holiday, we think we love it

the lack of Spanish, knowing anything

DISTILLERS JOURNAL

Ben Schroder toasting with Atenógenes and Jose García, father-son grower-producers, masters of their trade and artists in their work

PENSADOR

about distilling, Mexico export laws, etc,

But, with everyone’s plans in life, we have

corks all came from different companies

he bought his plane ticket. How hard

what we want to happen and then the

in different countries. Getting those things

could this be?

reality of what does.

to and in the right place was all very difficult. Yeah…. It wasn’t quick and easy,

FAR FROM EASY

but it was worthwhile,” he says.

of international trade or developing

“I thought it was going to be quick and

And between getting export licenses,

products or any experience in Mexico

easy and it was slow and difficult. That’s

labels, bottles, registering the name

other than just spending some time in

the overriding thing, which is because I

Pensador, he still had to find mezcal

southern Mexico on holiday.

had no experience, I had no experience

distillers which made a drink to his

of how long it would take to set up a

satisfaction, who were willing to ramp

“It was very difficult to convince people

brand. I thought that I could do it in six

up production, who had the equipment

that it was a good idea. But the way I

months; it actually took more like two

to distil for him, and most importantly,

looked at it was, I could give it a go and if

years, but it was important for me to

were willing to work with him. On top of

I needed to, I could pull out at any stage,

think that it was going to be easy,” says

this, there is a Grand Canyon of cultural

and I wouldn’t lose that much,” he says.

Schroder.

differences between rural Mexico and

“The first step was going back to Mexico

While Schroder might not have had the

of time. This isn’t in the way Hollywood

to try and find someone to work with on

experience required, he did have the

portrays Mexicans as always saying

this brand. And if I didn’t find anyone to

right attitude that he had to keep in his

“mañana” – tomorrow – when asked to

work with, I’d just had a great time again

mind it was all going to be easy. As any

do anything, but instead seeing time

in Mexico. If I did find someone, I could

entrepreneur will tell you, the second you

as a very finite and limited priceless

then start developing this brand. I would

start caving into your doubts, it’s game

commodity. Why would you take on

try to sink as little money as possible on

over.

more work, for more money, which can’t

“I didn’t come from a drinks industry background. I had no experience

the UK. One of the biggest is the concept

buy you more time?

the fixed costs and I would get a small order initially. I would try and sell it here

“Everything was difficult. The licencing

and if I couldn’t, then I would just have a

and the regulations were a lot more

“It’s interesting that this perspective is

lifetime supply of delicious mezcal. Yeah,

difficult to attain and time consuming.

something I come across. The sort of

it was always a crazy idea.”

And then there was the key element of

classic, economical perspective is that

packaging. Bottles, labels, and bottle

with increasing numbers, you should get

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DISTILLERS JOURNAL

PENSADOR

WHAT IS MEZCAL? If you want to get any mezcal lover up in arms, describe mezcal as being tequila’s smoky cousin. But as long as you promise not to tell where you heard it, that threeword description pretty much sums it up for novice mezcal drinkers.

According to Susan Coss and Max Garrone who founded Mezcalistas, a site dedicated to all things mezcal, colloquially mezcal means anything distilled from the agave plant.

Despite most people thinking otherwise, an agave is not a cactus, but instead is a type of succulent. There are around 200 species of agave with the blue agave being the most important and well known – it’s the only agave used in making tequila.

Mezcal can be made from more than 30 varieties of agave, with the most common varieties being tobalá, tobaziche, tepeztate, arroqueño and espadín, which is the most common agave and accounts for up to 90 percent of mezcal This distillation process has been going on in Mexico since at least the Spanish conquest and many believe to be potentially earlier. In a very general sense, mezcal is like the term “wine,” because anything fermented from grapes is considered wine. In most states in Mexico, when someone is making a spirit from the agave plant, most call it mezcal.

But legally mezcal has a different definition. The Denominacion de Origen (DO) decreasing prices. But I’ve found that’s

defines what regions are included based on the cultural heritage and history of

often not the case with mezcal producers

production within those areas. As currently defined, mezcal can only be made in 10

in that the prices are flat. And, actually,

states in Mexico and has to be certified by semi-governmental organisations that

sometimes the opportunity to create

have been tasked with regulating the category and when it can be used on labels

more doesn’t incentivise them to reduce

and certified as legal mezcal.

the price, but possibly even increase the price.

This leads to then, what is tequila?

Tequila is a type of mezcal with an extremely well-defined sense of itself. It devel-

“Their thinking is: ‘I do this amount of work

oped in the 19th century in western Mexico, in and around Jalisco.

and then I have this amount of free time

If you watch any Mexican classic films from the 1930s to 1940s, when people are

with my family or my friends or whatever.

drinking tequila, it is often seen as a peasant or working class drink and often used

So, if I make more mezcal, the free time

as comic relief – when men drink it they roll their eyes upwards at its strength, It’s

I’m losing would be increasingly more

enough to make you throw your sombrero in the air as in the 1941 classic movie ‘Ay,

valuable. I would need to be paid more

Jalisco, no te rajes!’ (Jalisco, don’t back down).

to make up for that lost time.’ It’s just a different way of looking at time.”

According to Mezcalistas, tequila achieved some international prominence and name recognition by the 20th century but really developed into an economic

JOURNEY TO MIAHUATLÁN

powerhouse in the 1970s¬ to 80s when the legal definition of tequila became even more restrictive. For example, it can only be made from a single type of agave, in

In a field of agave off the Calle

five Mexican states, and according to a certain methodology.

Pensamientos, Schroder met Atenógenes and Jose García, father-son grower-

But sadly, the definition of tequila has also been watered down in recent history so

producers, masters of their trade and

that bottles of so called “gold” tequila really may contain very little agave, lots of

artists in their work. Together they worked

spirit from sugar cane, and even corn syrup to give it that characteristic yellow taint.

on a new recipe and created the first bottle of Pensador.

Like wine, mezcal is the product of terroir – geography and inherited production techniques giving mezcals unique local

distillersjournal.info

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39

Above: Ben Schroder visiting with

Atenógenes García Left: Some ofthe amazing people Schroder has worked with in creating Pensador

PENSADOR Cooking the agave gives mezcal its smoky flavour

This crushing separates the fibres and releases the sugars.

This is transferred to a fermentation wooden barrel where wild yeasts will start the process. When the liquid becomes about 7% ABV, its moved on to distillation, which tend to be copper alembic stills around 200-300 litres, heated on an open fire. The finished product is 55% ABV. “You can drink it straight from the still or often people let it rest for a month. But this process is a bit frowned upon by aficionados since there isn’t any history of ageing mezcal in the producing regions,” identities. Within Oaxaca there are several

through these bottles. Otherwise, what’s

distinct production regions; experiencing

the point of brand, it’s like a complete

the flavours which unite these regions

lucky dip every time.

Back in the UK with bottles in hand, it is

is essential to understanding the wider

“When I was meeting producers initially, it

still an uphill battle for Schroder to find

category. Miahuatlán, having one of the

was always important for me to try a few

customers. It is not an exaggeration to

most idiosyncratic of these identities,

different batches that they had made and

say that Diageo International spends

is the perfect vehicle to display the

see if they had a similar level of quality,

more per minute on marketing than

influence of regionality in mezcal. It

versus one where they had one good

Pensador – or most all UK craft distillers

also happens to be home to some truly

batch and they had one bad batch – that

– do in a year. How can you get the word

phenomenal spirits.

just that just wouldn’t work. So, artisanal

out about Pensador with all this noise in

mezcal is not absolutely consistent, but

the background?

says Schroder.

“A lot of people think that terroir is just

it should be recognisably consistent and

referring to the earth because that’s

consistently good which is what you’re

“That’s not an exaggeration about

where the term comes from. But really,

looking for.”

Diageo, it’s definitely true,” says Schroder.

“Thankfully, we are appealing to different

the concept of terroir includes all regional elements or production. So that is the

MAKING MEZCAL

markets. With Pensador and other boutique spirits, you’re dealing with

earth, the climate, the local endemic species, and also localised production

The normal production process for

people who are interested in origins,

techniques. Those things are all very

artisanal mezcal begins with the harvest.

interested in handmade products and the

relevant to the flavour of mezcal and

In the fields, the producer shave the

people and stories behind their products.

taken together, they account for the vast

leaves off the off the agave plants and

These people will not be taken in by the

majority of the character of any particular

take the core which can weigh up to 500

sort of shallow marketing which is often

mezcal,” says Schroder.

kilos.

characteristic of these larger brands.

When producing artisanal mezcal – and

Starting at 2am due to the heat in Mexico,

“To market on a very small budget, craft

especially with the producers Schroder

in a large pit oven they build a fire, wait

gin, whisky, rum, or vodka needs to have

is working with – the process is far from

for it to burn down to embers, cover it

good quality liquid and you need the

being high-tech. Does each distillation

with rocks, and then cover it with the

story behind your production. Think about

then come out differently?

agave hearts, putting dirt on top.

visual marketing, you need very good images and videos of your production

“Yes, each batch does taste different.

The agave is left to cook for anywhere

process. For example, Pensador has an

There is no consistency, no absolute

from two to seven days to develop its

amazing five-minute video on its website.

consistency in artisanal mezcal. Having

sugar. It is then dug up and crushed,

said that, some producers are more

typically done with a tahona stone which

“If you believe in your liquid, then you

consistent than others. And of course, it is

is a big millstone and is pulled around

should make that the backbone of your

important that there’s a similarity running

in a circle by a donkey, cow, or tractor.

marketing campaign,” says Schroder.

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COCKTAILS

SHAKEN AND STIRRED COCKTAIL WISDOM WHAT HAPPENS WHEN YOU GET TWO OF NEW YORK CITY’S SPIRIT, COCKTAIL AND MIXED DRINKS EXPERTS TOGETHER, YOU GET A REMARKABLE GUIDE INTO THE WORLD OF COCKTAILS. VELO MITROVICH REPORTS

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SUMMER 2022

I

n 2012, New York legendary

later. And that seems to be a little more

cocktail historian David Wondrich

sophisticated,” says Wondrich.

signed on to be the editor of a book on cocktails for Oxford

“A cocktail is a subset of mixed drinks and

University Press. He figured it’d

originally it had a very specific definition.

take him a few years at best.

It was bitters, such as Stoughton bitters,

A few years later and nowhere near

invented in London around 1690,

completion, he brought in his New

mixed with spirits and sugar and water

York buddy, Noah Rothbaum, to help.

for dilution. Eventually, it expanded to

Rothbaum is the editor of The Daily

include any short-mixed drink anything

Beast’s award-winning ‘Half Full ‘section

that could be consumed in a few cold

and hosts the podcast ‘Life Behind Bars’

sips ice became a part of the definition.

with Wondrich.

And now, it’s pretty much synonymous with mixed drink in loose popular usage.

Rothbaum reasoned that he and

But among people who actually mixed

Wondrich have a combined bars,

drinks for a living, it’s a little narrower than

booze, spirits, and cocktail knowledge

that and closer towards that idea of a

of 40 years. Together, along with 150

short iced mixed drink.”

contributors, they’d be able to finish this in less time than to shake a daiquiri. He,

Most of us use the term mixed drink

too, figured wrong.

and cocktail interchangeably, is there an actual difference?

Running nearly 900 pages and including 1,200 entries, The Oxford Companion to

“The first definition that we’ve accepted

Spirits and Cocktails is now finished and

for a cocktail appears in 1806 in upstate

available to you. The New York Times

New York, when in a newspaper a reader

describes it as 900 pages of drinking

writes in asking about the use of the

wisdom. There are books about spirits

word ‘cocktail’. The following week, the

and distilling, there are books about

editor writes back and gives a definition,

cocktails and drinks, but this book

definition is essentially what we know as

combines it all together giving some

today is an Old Fashioned cocktail with

great insight.

spirits, sugar, water and bitters,” says Rothbaum.

You have to suspect that the first cocktail was created about three minutes

“Obviously stirred over ice, it’s how we

after the first alcoholic beverage was

make an Old Fashion today. But really,

made when someone realised that just

that that sort of sets the definition for

squeezing in the juice from ripe fruit

what we what we think of as a cocktail.

suddenly made it palatable.

But Dave is right, some of the more ornery or exacting bartenders and

“Well, I don’t know, these are things that

cocktail experts refuse to call things like

you can’t really prove it. Logic dictates

Highballs a cocktail where it’s just a mix

that that was quite possibly the case.

of club soda and whiskey, but instead

But the first mixed drinks we know with

call it a mixed drink. But in common

spirits were spirits mixed with wine, spirits

parlance, the two have sort of become

distilled from wine that were mixed with

interchangeable, and most people will

wine, or spirits mixed with water. The

sort of use both for the same thing.”

fruit juice seems to have come a little bit

DISTILLERS JOURNAL

COCKTAILS

When making a cookbook, many authors

cocktail making techniques. Do you think

claim to have made and perfected every

this will continue?

recipe in the book. Armed with a cast iron “Right now, in the short term, yes, it

liver, how long would it take for a person to work their way through every cocktail and spirit mentioned in the guide?

“Hopefully people will work their way through all of the recipes over many years – decades – and hopefully it will become a well-worn, resource and companion that people will turn to when they’re looking for a recipe or history or facts. But I would never suggest that somebody drink their way through this book, because it’s just, it’s too big. It’s true,” says Rothbaum “Also,” says Wondrich, “there are some

Some of the more ornery or exacting bartenders and cocktail experts refuse to call things like Highballs a cocktail.” Noah Rothbaum

seems to be continuing. As we slowly stumble our way out of this catastrophe, we can look back on prohibition in America, which after repeal, people still continued making cocktails at home, and having cocktail parties and things that they hadn’t really done much of before Prohibition, and they continue doing that for a generation at least. So, for the for the near term, I would say it’s, it will probably continue,” says Wondrich.

We all have this image of 1950s and 60s home parties. A Stan Getz bossa nova or Dave Brubeck jazz LP record would be

practical issues such as a few recipes call

playing, people would be smoking and

for laudanum, which is made from opium.

someone’s husband, wearing a plastic

That’s a little difficult to source and highly

crown, would be shaking and stirring

illegal. So, in most countries, there are

cocktails until the early hours of the

supply issues for some of these things.”

morning. Do those in the know see this as the golden age of cocktails?

During the Covid lockdown it seemed that people were perfecting their home

distillersjournal.info

“I think it’s more the golden age of the

SUMMER 2022

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45

COCKTAILS

cocktail hour, or the home cocktail hour.

In researching the book, what was the

gotten it wrong every single time. So,

That scene is one that I think a lot of

strangest cocktail the team discover?

probably, I’m just not good at the future.

The future is a closed book to me,” says

people try to achieve in their own homes

Wondrich.

or when they’re invited to somebody

“Some of those we didn’t include

else’s house for a cocktail party, but –

because they were so strange. And we

and I don’t want to burst any bubbles

didn’t see that there would be much

“I’d say only way to predict some of

here – it wasn’t a great time to be a

use for a recipe for them like is like blue

these future trends is what we’ve seen

drinker,” says Rothbaum.

blazer, which is a flaming stream of

over the last couple 100 years – these

whiskey poured back and forth between

things are cyclical. Some drinks become

“It wasn’t the golden age of the cocktail,

mugs. It’s known to bartenders, but not

super popular and then during their life

the golden age of the cocktail is really

too many other people,” says Wondrich.

cycle they fall out of favour, and then they come back right,” says Rothbaum.

almost exactly 100 years ago, right before World War One or around the turn

Future drinks

“Whether it’s rye whiskey, or classic

of the last century when many of the

For those of us in the industry, one thing

cocktails or whatever has been hot

concoctions that we still love and enjoy

we want to know when looking at several

and super popular and then everybody

today were first invented and served. In

hundred years of drinks, can you predict

doesn’t like any more, it will come back in

the 50s and 60s people were obviously

future cocktail or spirit trends.

a good 10 or 20 years.

but the music was probably better than

“I’ve been writing about spirits and

Some cocktails, in particular daiquiris and

the drinks”

cocktails for more than 20 years at this

Margarette, go off on strange tangents

point. And over that time, I have been

but then return to their roots after making

asked to predict future trends, and I’ve

a very wrong term. Do you see some

drinking and listening to wonderful jazz,

We all know some odd drinks out there.

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DISTILLERS JOURNAL

COCKTAILS cocktails, such as the daiquiri, going back

ordered the same cocktail twice. At the

and appreciate a cocktail and we just

to its roots after taking a very wrong turn?

end of the day, is the most important

encourage you to explore and learn. If

thing with any spirit or cocktail the

you don’t like what you’re drinking, find

pleasure it gives you?

something else. If you love what you’re

“This happens very much. During the last

drinking, well keep drinking it or try other

two decades or so in the cocktail culture there has been this friendly argument

“Absolutely and I think to be honest,

stuff, and then come back to it. But it

between people who want to push the

sometimes Dave and I disappoint

should be enjoyment.”

boundaries of mixology as far as they

people, because they expect us to

possibly can, using science, creativity,

either condemn what they’re drinking

There are all thoughts that Wondrich

and tricks, and people who just want to

or praise their esoteric tastes,” says

echo as well. “I think one of the things

strip off all the gunk that’s been attached

Rothbaum. “And you know, we truly don’t

that we’re definitely opposed to is

to these drinks and get back to their

care as long as it makes you happy. We

anything that takes drink out of the

original impulse,” says Wondrich.

want you to make it the best drink that

column of life’s pleasures and puts it

you possibly can. And I think hopefully

into the column of life’s challenges and

“Sometimes these schools don’t agree

reading about the history of cocktails,

difficulties and pains. So, as long as you’re

very well and sometimes they do, but

about the bartender who created it and

happy, drink what you like>”

that traditional traditionalist wing has

some of the amazing ingredients, I think,

been very important. They remind people

only enhances the enjoyment because

The Oxford Companion to Spirits and

that these drinks originally were very

then it puts the drink into context, you

Cocktails is out now at Amazon or

focused and had really clean strong

understand, you don’t just experience it

wherever good books are sold. You will

flavours. The traditionalists strip off all

as a drink, but also the whole story and

not be disappointed by it.

the gunk and reveal the Shaker furniture

you can share that.

underneath.”

“Some of the drinks that are the most We all know people who order exactly

common have some of the most

the same drink, just like we know some

fascinating, interesting stories. There

people who never seem to have ever

are different ways that you can enjoy

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MARKETING

RULES TO SELL BY

‘FIND A WAY TO REGULATE YOUR MARKETING OR WE’LL REGULATE YOU’ WAS THE THREAT MADE BY THE GOVERNMENT TO THE UK ALCOHOL INDUSTRY. THUS, PORTMAN GROUP WAS BORN. IT HASN’T ALWAYS BEEN THOUGH AN EASY RIDE. VELO MITROVICH REPORTS

distillersjournal.info

E

xpats and visitors alike have

“Our name sounds like a popular western

been amused for years over

profanity, you say? Whilst that is a

some of the street names

remarkable coincidence, we are actually

in Hong Kong, including

named after a street in our Hong Kong

Wan King Path, Man Fuk

hometown; a name the locals have long

Road, and Fuk Hing Lane. One British

since stopped guffawing at. But many

expat decided that Fuk Hing Lane would

visitors to our fine city still see the funny

make a great name for a gin, but even he

side and we are OK with that. We laugh at

realised he would be pushing the limits

ourselves, so why not let visitors in on it?

with that name. So, Paul Harper-Cox

So happy are we, in fact, that we adopted

decided on Fok Hing Gin.

the street name for our gin,” says the gin’s website.

Distilled and bottled in East Midlands

by InCognito Group – using Hong Kong

Who could be offended by this

botanicals – there was never any doubt

adolescent play on words – although the

as to what its name sounded like –

better question might be: What were they

despite the company claiming it was an

thinking?

English romanisation of Cantonese, which meant fortune and prosper.

A complaint was made to the UK’s

SUMMER 2022

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49

MARKETING REGULATION

alcohol trade body Portman Group, in

adults, and distillers and brewers on

by politicians due to alco-pops, and in

which the complainant said: “It’s obvious

the other side who want to push the

particular one called Hooch.

the intention is to shock and offend those

marketing creativity envelope in regards

who find swearing undesirable and

to beverage names, labelling, and

“Politicians were sabre rattling about

unacceptable.”

packaging.

creating a regulatory body to manage the

There are 12 marketing codes and

Craft brewers in particular see Portman

Lambert. “You may recall the phrase ‘the

Portman Group agreed under Code

Group as killjoys and part of the ‘Nanny

last chance saloon’, which occasionally

paragraph 3.3: “A drink’s name, its

State’. Some craft distillers and brewers

gets thrown around by politicians when

packaging and any promotional material

look at how big alcohol finances Portman

they say we’re going to have to regulate

or activity should not cause serious or

Group and believe that it exists to only

now.”

widespread offence.” The result was

promote their own agenda. However,

if Fok Hing Gin wants to sell in the

from what Distillers Journal can see,

alcohol sector, to bring it into line,” says

Lambert says that the then prime

UK, it needed to make changes in its

minister, Margert Thatcher, was not keen

marketing.

on having a government regulatory committee for the alcohol industry –

Needless to say, the gin creators and

being paid for by the taxpayers – and

its fans were not amused by this lack of

instead supported fully the idea that

amusement.

the industry itself should fund an

Fok Hing Gin fired back and published a post on its Facebook on 12 November.

It read, “A letter to the Karen that tried to cancel us because she got offended by a few romanised Chinese words and a street name…and then took time out of

The better question might be: What were they thinking?”

independent complaints panel manned by laypeople. It was officially set up in 1989, taking its name from Portman Square, next to the London head office of Guinness, which was one its original funders.

her day to file a report. Here’s a discount

Although one of the complaints levelled

code for your efforts: “FOKHINGKARENS”

against the Group is that it is the case

for 25% off – UK store only, until this

of the foxes being tasked with guarding

Sunday. PS: Thank you, you’ve helped

the henhouse, it works in complete

us go viral and generated more press

independence from its funders and

and traffic we could ever imagine – more

with complete transparency. While Big

effective than a PR agency! Might we

Alcohol remains it funding body, medium

suggest a new hobby?”

these views seemed based on a lack of

to small distillers and brewers can get

knowledge about the Group.

involved with funding, paying in with a sliding fee.

You can just imagine the new Portman Group’s chief executive, Matt Lambert,

If you go its website and see the number

shaking his head at all of this.

of times each year Portman Group

“We act as two things: we stand up for

challenges the media and NGOs who

responsible players in the industry and

If ever there was an organisation stuck

cherry-pick data or statistics against the

make the case for the alcohol sector on

between a rock and a hard place, it

industry, you’ll see that there is more to

its positive side,” says Lambert. “We also

is Portman Group. A body created

the Group than just making sure clowns

are the secretary for an independent

and funded by the alcohol industry to

don’t go on your distilling bottles.

complaints panel, and this is my case for the value of regulation.”

regulate its own marketing, it walks a balancing act between the government

30-year journey

on one side threatening to become the

According to Lambert, around 30-years-

Some of the products that the

regulator if the industry doesn’t act like

ago the industry was under attacked

independent complaints panel has taken

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DISTILLERS JOURNAL

MARKETING REGULATION

views on in those 30-years include Red

voluntarily and cooperatively with the

alcohol damaging one’s heart, can be a

Army, a vodka in a glass AK-47 with bullet

industry, trying to resolve cases by

cause of cancer, and to have calorie and

shot glasses, and recently Quickie Wine,

informal resolution. We issue guidance

nutritional information.

which had a 1950s woman undressing

based on our understanding of where the

with a man in the background.

independent complaints panel generally

“I think it’s important that the Portman

lands on decisions to help the industry

Group should be supported widely

Lambert says that there are 12 rules

stay within the code,” he says. We provide

across the industry. As well as the 14

in the Portman Group code which try

free advice to all of the industry, anybody

members who currently funders, we

to avoid irresponsible, unacceptable

can call our helpline or contact us by

have about 160 code signatories, that’s

marketing of alcohol products.

email, – you can find that on our website.

producers, importers, retailers, pub

“They are broadly common sense; are

“You can ask for advice about marketing

of the industry infrastructure – who

they are about making it clear this is

or a new product or an existing product.

have signed up to our code of practice

an alcoholic product, not encouraging

And we also provide training at relatively

and agreed to respect it. Widespread

minors to drink a product, or indicating

low cost. I’ve got a team of regulatory

compliance for the code is essential to

that if you drink this product, you’ll have

experts who know what the code is

the health of the self-regulatory model

greater social sexual success. Those are

inside out and where the panel normally

and resisting calls to have Whitehall

just a few of the parts of the code,” he

decides.”

bureaucrats deciding what goes on in

landlords, trade associations – all parts

the labelling and the marketing and

says.

Lambert is quick to point out though

sponsorship of alcohol products.

The independent review board is made

that the guidance of Portman Group

up of nine lay people led by a high

doesn’t bind the panel. “A complaint can

“So, if you’re not a cosignatory and you’re

court judge – currently Nikola Williams

be brought, and the panel could take a

producing alcoholic products, I’d really

– and they broadly come up with very

different view from my secretary, they are

urge you to get in touch with us, come

common-sense views on complaints,

completely independent, I can’t tell them

and find us on the website. There’s no

says Lambert.

what to do.”

cost to that at present, it’s just a question

“There are are brought in generally by

That said, Portman Group does more

the public, while only occasionally by the

than regulate alcohol marketing.

of just adhering to the code,” says Matt Lambert.

Return to Fok Hing Gin

industry. If the industry wants to complain about another industry product, they

“We also talk about alcohol policy, and

In response to the complaint, the

have to do so in an open way, whereas

we try to have on behalf of the industry

company stated that the name paid

the public can bring an anonymous

a fact-based evidence-led approach to

tribute to its brand heritage and culture.

complaint,” says Lambert. “We

alcohol policy. There’s a kind of drumbeat

Incognito Group sought to pay homage

assess them to check that they’re not

in the mainstream media that says

to ‘Fuk Hing Lane’, a street located in

troublemaking complaints but are true

people were drinking too much in the

Causeway Bay Hong Kong and explained

genuine complaints. Sometimes we get

lockdown, people are generally drinking

that the name had been changed from

them from alcohol charities or recently

too much, we’re damaging our health,

‘Fuk’ to ‘Fok’ to differentiate it from

we had them from the Metropolitan

drinking is going up and so on. Actually,

offensive language used in western

Police.”

the stats don’t really bear that out and

culture.

most people who drink alcohol drink in In 2021 there were 45 complaints: the

moderation.”

The Portman Group panel considered the packaging in the context of its wider

independent complaints panel had 16 rulings, 11 of those were upheld

Concerns that Portman Group has for

marketing activity that appeared on

complaints, and five were not upheld.

the coming year include an increase on

the brand website. The Panel noted

pressure to have more warnings and

that the brand story was unclear on the

information on alcohol labels, such as

packaging which made little reference to

“One of the things we try to do is work

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51

MARKETING REGULATION

the street that was its namesake.

gin collection, and we are delighted to continue serving the market.

It was also noted that some of its marketing was inconsistent with the

Through consultation with the Portman

company’s explanation that the name

Group, we have agreed to update the

was not intended to be used as a play on

reverse label to be more descriptive of

words for swearing. The Panel concluded

the details that inspired our brand and

that the phonetic pronunciation of ‘Fok

look forward to introducing our UK fans

Hing’ sounded like profanity and clearly

to a little bit of Hong Kong history whilst

alluded to profanity in the accompanying

they enjoy FOK HING GIN during the

marketing. Subsequently, it had the same

forthcoming festive season and beyond.

potential to cause serious or widespread offence as the word ‘fuck’. As this is listed

The complainant was invited to

by Ofcom in the category of strongest

comment and said: “I would like to thank

offensive language and seen as ‘strong,

the Portman Group for investigating

aggressive and vulgar’, it was decided

this matter and taking the complaint

that the product did breach the Code.

seriously. I believe the finding is

We stand up for responsible players in the industry and make the case for the alcohol sector” Matt Lambert

absolutely correct – it was clear to the Commenting on the decision, the Chair

ordinary observer that in particular

of the Independent Complaints Panel,

the online promotional campaign was

Nicola Williams, said:

intended as a play of words and an

“This is the first time since the addition

attempt to create offensive humour.

of the rule on serious or widespread offence, that a product’s name and

I welcome the fact that Incognito Group

packaging was considered under the rule

participated and co-operated with the

in terms of offensive language. It is not

enquiry, however, I am in no doubt that

appropriate for marketing materials to

their explanation of both the product

purposefully link a name to profanity and

name and promotional activity was

no responsible marketing should cause

to an extent fabricated and a cynical

serious or widespread offence.”

cover story prepared in the event of a complaint – they knew exactly what they

Incognito Group Limited was invited

were doing in naming and promoting the

to comment and said “We strive to be

product in the way they did.”

a brand that celebrates the language, culture and heritage of Hong Kong. We are grateful by our UK consumers who have warmly welcomed us into their

52

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DISTILLERS JOURNAL

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ROASTED MALT

E N D L E S S

POSSIBILITIES WITH ROASTED MALT FLAVOURS

W

ith whisky being

In science, when we discuss perfection

As a whisky fan yourself, do you think

so firmly based in

in terms of quality, it doesn’t satisfy the

slight imperfections or slight differences

tradition, we often

requirements.

in yearly consistency adds to whisky

think of its flavour

In whisky, we can measure quality,

flavour?

being unchanging.

or quantify things like alcohol yield,

I think whiskey is more forgiving than

However, in looking at whisky over the

fermentable, sugars, yeast health, but

wine in this case. Casks from different

last 150 years, nothing could be further

in terms of flavour, people’s flavour

years are blended together to get the

from the truth. One person working on

preferences are very subjective. Some

desired consistent flavours in in whiskey.

improving – and challenging – the flavour

of us like spicy food, some of us don’t.

We can select and bottle whiskey from

of whisky is Heriot-Watt PhD student,

It’s the same with things like coriander,

a single cask from a very good year if

Rutele Marciulionyte.

chocolate, oysters, ice cream, and

it has the perfect flavours already. But

whisky. We’re all different so there’s no

the majority of whiskey – at least in the

Distillers Journal: What is the role of a

single recipe that would satisfy all the

Scottish malt whisky industry – goes into

whisky flavour scientist?

people in the world. So, I don’t think

blends and that is all up to the master

Rutele Marciulionyte: I think a scientist

there’s a perfect whiskey for everyone.

blender and their skills and experiences.

is a very curious person who observes

The closest we could get to it is to

I don’t think that yearly consistency or

some small area of interest and gathers

analyse people’s palates and make it,

inconsistency is that important in whiskey

data in it. Then with acquired knowledge

let’s say a crowd pleaser whiskey, which

as it is in wine.

in that area, she does experiments to test

would tick the most boxes for most

that hypothesis, processes the results,

people.

You grew up in Lithuania, why Scotland

and share the results with the world.

and why whisky?

I call myself a whiskey flavour scientist,

I came to Scotland more than 10 years

but my official title is a just a PhD student

ago with the primary goal to get my

so far, but my area in that PhD concerns

bachelor’s degree. Lithuania is a very

the very, very specific flavours of whiskey.

tiny country of just 3 million people, and

And on my daily basis, I do my best in

I wanted to get a degree in an English-

expanding human knowledge in just that

speaking country, which would be more

tiny area of flavours in whiskey in terms of chemistry and biology.

Looking at it from a pure scientific point of view, is there such a thing as a perfect whisky?

So, from a scientific point of view, I don’t think there’s such thing as ‘perfect’ because if we say this is a perfect chair, what is a perfect chair? What were the expectations for a chair? What I see as being the requirements of a perfect chair would they differ from yours?

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SUMMER 2022

I do my best in expanding human knowledge in just that tiny area of flavours in whisky,” Rutele Marciulionyte

competitive, so my skills would be more versatile and applicable. Also, at that time that education in Scotland was free for European Union citizens. So that’s what brought me to Scotland and England. I liked being here very much and came back for my PhD How has your experience been at HeriotWatt University?

I only had a half-year of the real university experience before the pandemic and the lockdowns hit, and I don’t think it has

DISTILLERS JOURNAL

ROASTED MALT

recovered since. But as far as I’ve seen,

characteristics like sugars and amino

commercial malts and I also have

it’s a very nice multicultural university

acids, and how the yeast changes with

distilled spirits made from different types

on a very beautiful campus surrounded

different malts. In addition, I am looking

of malts that I roasted myself in the lab

by woods, locks, canals, and meadows.

at how distilling changes with different

because it allows me a better control of

And, most importantly it has a very strong

malts and maturing that spirit could differ.

the temperature of the colour flavours. I

brewing and distilling department – this is

It’s a very, very deep research interest in a

actually know what roasting conditions

why Heriot Watt University is sometimes

very tiny area.

produce what malts and how they smell.

We’re producing spirit and our plans in

called the Harvard of distilling. We get students from all over the world, a lot

Would big whisky or craft whisky be

the lab is to put it into casks and mature it

of very interesting and very motivated

more interested in using speciality malts?

so then we can call it whiskey after three

people, and a unique chance to make

Why specialty malts aren’t used that

years and one day. But so far, most of it is

international connections which can

widely within big distilleries is because

just theory.

possibly lead to collaborations in the

with malt roasting, we lose alcohol

future. I feel very lucky to study here

yield – caramelization reactions during

If tasting is part of your research but you

because everyone is so into what they’re

roasting use up sugars. Normally sugars

don’t have the luxury of time to age, are

doing and so passionate.

are required to produce alcohol, so if

you tasting some pretty raw spirits?

we burn the sugars, we don’t produce

From scientific point of view, tasting is a

Could you explain your PhD thesis?

alcohol.

bit subjective, because every person’s

I’m trying to improve the flavour of

Big distilleries normally use the most

palate is very different. What we use

whiskey by using roasted malt. Lager

efficient methods in terms of producing

instead in our lab is gas chromatography,

beers are made from pale malts and

product yield or alcohol. But the

mass spectrometry, or high-performance

styles like Guinness are made from

smaller distilleries have more room for

liquid chromatography. With these

roasted malts, that’s why styles are so

experiments and they can allow it. So,

techniques, we can measure spirit

creamy and they taste like coffee or

I think it’s more of a craft whiskey thing

contents very precisely and very

chocolate. In my project I work with

using special laws

accurately. For example, we know that isoamyl acetate smells like banana and

barley roasted in various conditions, I’m checking which temperature and roasting

With your PhD, are you distilling whiskies

pear so we can measure it, quantify it,

duration provides me the best flavours,

using different malts?

and we know what quantity is needed for

I test the yield and other important

Yes, I have distilled spirits using different

it to be detected by a human nose.

distillersjournal.info

SUMMER 2022

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55

ROASTED MALT and I was never told I cannot do something just because I’m a girl – I don’t see myself any different just because I’m a female and I think I can move as high as I want. I’ve met a lot of amazing women in the whiskey industry. But I think for me, it’s more about do I really want to move up in the industry? Or do I want to like stay at the same level or sideways or another industry.

I don’t think that a career is always about moving up, sometimes it’s a bit more complicated journey. For me, a job has to be interesting, and I would love it to be useful for society. I don’t think that that being a distiller at a large company would suit me because I think the daily manufacturing of the same liquid is a bit monotonous. I love teaching and spreading knowledge so I would love to inspire people in whisky or chemistry or This already allows us to do a lot of

allows them to do, such as ensuring their

both. In the whisky industry, maybe being

research and draw conclusions. But at

whisky is aged only in sherry casks, from

a whiskey educator or consultant would

the end of my project, we’ll go to the

a flavour point of view are there things

be a good job for me.

still in a variable big scale, using the

that only large distilleries can do.?

best recipes. In three more years, we’ll

I have not worked in a large distillery yet,

Do you see yourself staying in Scotland

have plenty of whiskey to be tasted and

but I would not think that the difference

or moving back to Lithuania and making

evaluated.

is in the size of distillery but is more

whisky there?

about the materials you’re using and the

To be completely honest, Scotland is a

You have a background with craft beer,

knowledge you have. But sure, large

bit too cold for me, I don’t think I would

how would you describe craft whisky?

distilleries they have more money to play

live here forever. Lithuania is a great

That is a bit of a tricky question, because

with, they can get taller, bigger distilling

country and I would love to go back, but

I think term ‘craft’ is very different

equipment, they pay probably less for

alcohol making and advertising laws are

everywhere. And so, what is craft? Is it

goods because they buy it in bulk, and

a bit difficult there at the moment, so I

small? Is it independent? Is it relying on

probably get better goods because

don’t see it as my first choice either. I’ll

manual labour rather than automatic

they have strict agreements with a

probably be looking for a new country

systems or that is uses local ingredients?

procurement.

that is relatively warm, the food is good

What you would call craft in USA would

But, on the downside there is less room

and people appreciate a good drink or

be a massive commercial brewery

for them to experiment and innovate.

whiskey or another spirit yet to be found.

in Lithuania in size scale. Because of

Also mistakes for them cost much more;

all of this, I don’t like to define what’s

if you make a mistake on a large scale,

For anyone wanting to go into the

craft and what’s not craft. But for my

you have to dump it all. Small distilleries

industry, is having a degree in chemistry

personal opinion, craft whiskey would

can make very palatable whiskey as well,

a huge advantage?

be from relatively a small distillery with

but they can also innovate more easily. It

There are so many jobs in the whiskey

independent thinking. If somebody

is a trade-off.

industry, and you can literally have any degree because not everyone has to

turned up one day and said, ‘Hey, guys, let’s try this wine yeast or let’s try

How open do you think the industry is to

understand whiskey at the molecular

fermentation three times as long as our

women?

level. When I taste whiskey because I’m

normal’, that would be craft thinking. A

I think the doors are wide open.

a chemist I think of what’s in it giving the

distillery that would let you try this, that

Regarding this, we’re living in a in the

flavours. But for most people, passion is

would be open to new ideas, and would

best time in the history.

more important, and we all have different passions. So no, a chemistry degree

be small and manoeuvrable enough to make these different spirits, that would

Do you think you will ultimate face a

is not necessary if you want to make

be craft whiskey for me.

glass ceiling because you are female,

whiskey

or could you move up in the industry as When you look at large distilleries such

high as you want?

With lab-based meat, you can create

as The Macallan and what being large

I was raised with no gender stereotypes,

something in a bioreactor such as a

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DISTILLERS JOURNAL

ROASTED MALT chicken breast in days as opposed to

to do. You want to do something different

months with natural chicken. Do you ever

at your craft distillery, you make a small

see the day when whisky will be created

batch and see what happens.

in a lab instead of a distillery?

This is why so I’m doing roasted malts.

I do think that it’s possible and there’s in

We’re trying to get these chocolate

fact already a company who are doing a

coffee aromas into whiskey. But we asked

whisky flavoured drink. Well, I can’t call it

ourselves, why is nobody doing this in

whisky because whisky has to be made

bigger scale? Why do we not already

under certain regulations, but they’re

have chocolate malt whisky on our

calling it a whisky drink and they make it

shelves in in the shops? Then we realised

in a lab just in one day. I have not tasted it

it is just because the tradition in Scotland

yet but I’m very curious to try it.

is so deep and people are not doing it just because of that tradition.

Your thoughts on how your research

They’re afraid either afraid to change

might be used?

their traditional ways or that it’s because

If you’re a large company – and this

yields might change if different malts are

applies to any industry – you naturally

used. So, they just keep making the same

invest part of your profits into R&D, you

product over and over again and they

try to keep up with the times, and make

don’t try to innovate.

new products or try to make what you

My research will show people how to

have better. So, they have great labs and

get different flavours from whisky. The

do try to innovate, but it has to be put into

options are limitless.

I was never told I cannot do something just because I’m a girl – I don’t see myself any different just because I’m a female,” Rutele Marciulionyte

a plan which means it won’t get looked for another year or so.

However, if you’re smaller scale and just trying to experiment spontaneously, that’s much easier and more interesting

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BASE ALCOHOL

THE QUIRKY BEHAVIOUR OF ETHANOL

YOU WOULD THINK THAT ADDING ONE LITRE OF ETHANOL TO ONE LITRE OF WATER WOULD MEAN YOU HAVE TWO LITRES OF LIQUID. THIS ISN’T ALWAYS THE CASE AS BERT ALBRECHT OF ETHIMEX EXPLAINS FOR DISTILLERS JOURNAL

distillersjournal.info

T

he ethanol used to make

small volumes. However, once the scale

white spirits like gin, vodka

increases, the detail of physics can no

and also RTDs, has some

longer be ignored and the answer that

quirky behaviours and

one might expect may not be in line with

there is one in particular

our expectations.

that some may not be aware of, one that has confounded distillers and can affect

Here is a prime example: One day at

production if not taken into consideration.

our Ethimex warehouse, when reducing 17,000L of ethanol from 96% ABV to 40%

On several occasions, during the

ABV with demineralised water, about

blending process, distillers have been

350L in volume went missing. This was

puzzled by the mysterious case of

without any spillage or evaporation.

disappearing ethanol. A disappearance

Logically, one will expect that if you

that isn’t caused by spilt product or

add 1L of water to 1L of ethanol you

thievery, and while it might make for a

would end up with 2L of liquid. However,

more dramatic reading to suggest that

if measured accurately the resulting

the industry has its own version of the

mixture will be less than the expected 2L.

mysterious Bermuda Triangle, the answer

What takes place is known as shrinkage.

is more logical and is found in physics.

Water and ethanol like each other very much and form bonds – hydrogen bonds.

Like many laws in physics, they apply to

This is not a chemical process; it is a

our environment all the time, but many

physical process. Ethanol (C2H5OH) has

effects might go unnoticed at a low scale,

an OH group called a hydroxyl group,

speed, short distances and in our case:

which allows a molecule of ethanol to

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59

BASE ALCOHOL pharmaceutical, cosmetic, and industrial applications but is now also available for beverages development.

But let’s go back to our story about shrinkage. Shrinkage is most prominent between 20% and 70% ABV which is exactly where distillers like to position their liqueurs and spirits. However, as the graph below shows, the amount of shrinkage varies with ABV and is not linear as one might expect, and the highest percentage of shrinkage value occurs at about 50% ABV with an increase of density of 2.2 percent.

If we put the science of bonding to the side for one moment, the effect of shrinkage could be compared to adding half a bucket of water to half a bucket of sand, the result is more than half a bucket but not quite a full one. However, the weight of the sand-water mixture will be exactly that of the weight of the sand plus that of the water. The same is true for the ethanol-water blend, so when working in mass there is no discrepancy.

This makes sense under the Law of Conservation of Mass. However, historically distillers prefer to work in volume and ABV (or proof) but because there is no Law of Conservation of Volume, the relationship between density, temperature and ABV must be considered carefully when handling alcohol. Notice that the first graph illustrates the density curve at 20°C. First graph shows the density curve at 20°C. The second shows that each temperature

The second graph illustrates that each

has its own graph with a more pronounced shrinkage at lower temperatures

temperature has its own graph with a more pronounced shrinkage at lower temperatures.

form a hydrogen bond (H-bond) with

boils at 100 °C, but the azeotrope mixture

water. This bond is one of the strongest

boils at 78.2 °C, which is lower than either

Another ethanol disappearing trick

intermolecular forces however, this

of its components.

of a different kind demonstrates the importance of this triangular relationship.

causes the density to increase and the volume decreases, which is why we get

After fermentation, the last percentage

This time it is the physical shrinkage

shrinkage.

of water cannot be extracted from

under influence of a change of

the ethanol by simple distillation, it

temperature. An obvious occurrence

Thankfully, one of the great advantages

would require a third agent or the use

but again not really noticeable for small

is that water and ethanol dissolve in each

of molecular sieves to achieve this.

volumes.

other perfectly, which is great when

Ethanol at 99.9% is known as anhydrous

making spirits at different alcohol ratios or

ethanol or absolute ethanol. It is most

Here’s a real-life example that illustrates

ABV. On the flip side, water and ethanol

hygroscopic and it must be stored and

what can happen if this is ignored: a

also form a positive azeotrope (also

handled carefully, or it will absorb water

tank truck of ethanol was shipped from

known as a constant boiling mixture)

vapour from the air until it reaches

the south of France to the UK, when

at 95.63% ethanol and 4.37% water (by

the 95.6% azeotropic concentration.

unloading the receptor noticed that a

mass). Ethanol boils at 78.4 °C and water

This type of ethanol is mainly used for

significant volume of ethanol was missing

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DISTILLERS JOURNAL

BASE ALCOHOL even though the paperwork was crystal

a standard IBC with a physical volume

clear about the loaded volume. The tank

of 1000L of ethanol will contain more

truck remained sealed throughout the

LPA in the winter than in the summer.

whole journey so there was no possibility

Regardless of this actual volume, all

of tampering. What happened here is that

documentation will show the volume of

the truck was loaded at 19⁰C, travelled

LPA adjusted to 20⁰C.

to Calais, waited overnight at the harbour and was delivered early the following

As you might have guessed, there is

morning at 7⁰C.

no linear relation between density and temperature and ABV, you would need

What the receiver did not consider

a three-dimensional graph to have an

is that the volume is irrelevant if it is

accurate view. Instead, there are the

disconnected from the temperature. Like

Practical Alcohol Tables published by the

many substances, alcohol expands and

EU in 1978 or if you want a shortcut, you

shrinks with temperature variation. So,

could use a manual or electronic alcohol

what was the right way to verify the load

meter. One thing is for sure, measuring

of ethanol? For any calculation, whether

the alcohol level by tasting will not work.

partners can be quite important. As a

that would be for blending, invoicing or

It is important to recognise the

supplier of ethanol and bulk spirits, and

taxation, ethanol is always considered in

occurrence of shrinkage and appreciate

with two decades working in the global

its state at 20⁰ C.

the concept of LPA as it will help with

ethanol trade, we are extremely well

If the actual alcohol is not at this

calculations for reducing high strength

versed and familiar with the intricacies

temperature, a temperature correction

alcohol, correct duty calculations

of alcohol tables and LPA conversions

factor is applied. Most commonly a load

especially when blending several spirits

and use our expertise to make sure our

of ethanol will be expressed in LPA (Litres

at different ABVs.

customers get exactly what they desire

of Pure Alcohol) at 20⁰C. Consider that

This is where working with the right

distillersjournal.info

Bert Albrecht of ETHIMEX

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61

BOTTLING

THE NEW TREND IN CERAMIC BOTTLES

IF YOU WANT YOUR PRODUCT TO STAND OUT ON A SHELF, FEW THINGS HAVE THE SAME IMPACT AS A CERAMIC BOTTLE. ERIN HILL OF WADE CERAMICS EXPLAINS

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W

ade Ceramics is

range, the smaller distilleries looking to

launching a new

make their mark with a standout bottle

range of stock

now can do so.”

ceramic bottles,

Based in Stoke-on-Trent, internationally

designed to be

recognised as the heart of ‘The Potteries’,

an affordable and creative alternative

Wade has been a ceramics producer

to glass that will appeal to smaller,

since 1810. Committed to being a

independent distillers across the world.

sustainable manufacturer, they aim to

Recognising the unprecedented growth

source all materials locally, recycle all

in the craft-drinks market in recent years,

waste, and are ISO9001 certified.

Wade has developed and launched a range of six unique stock shapes for

Wade has long been one of the World’s

distillers to choose from, making ceramic

leading producers of bespoke porcelain

bottles more accessible than ever before.

decanters and over the last 40 years has supplied somewhere in the region

Wade managing director Paul Farmer

of one hundred million bottles to

MBE says, “We have been watching the

distilleries worldwide. Working closely

market carefully and have seen a clear

with numerous household name brands,

change over the past few years, with

Wade offers a bespoke, personalised

smaller distilleries preferring ceramic

service to deliver the very best products

over glass.

in the market and is actively developing

“While the environmental benefits are

solutions to allow smaller distilleries to

clear, a ceramic bottle also enables the

design their own ceramic product that

product to truly stand out on the shelf,

creates a real point of difference.

and we decided that, by offering a stock

DISTILLERS JOURNAL

ADVERTORIAL From producing a limited edition 50-year-old Royal Salute whisky bottle, to celebrate the Queen’s Golden Jubilee, and being commissioned to produce the decanter to celebrate the 100th anniversary of The Famous Grouse, to working with craft distilleries like Forest Gin and Norfolk Gin on their full range of batch whiskies and gins, Wade has vast experience in developing and producing world famous vessels that are adored by consumers, connoisseurs, and collectors across the world.

A clear standout from the sea of traditional glass bottles available off the shelf, the new range of bottles designed in-house by Wade will incur no initial modelling or tooling costs but are able to be dipped in a wide range of colours and have logos and other branding printed for no additional cost.

Accessible for even the smallest of distilleries, minimum orders will be 500 for plain white, moving up to 3,000 for an alternative colour.

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+44 (0) 1733 834264 | www.gravity-systems.co.uk distillersjournal.info

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63

BOTTLING

DON’T OVERLOOK FILLERS AS YOUR BRAND GROWS JAY LANGEJANS, FOGG’S SUBJECT MATTER EXPERT IN THE WINE AND SPIRITS INDUSTRY, HAS FIVE TOPICS THAT SHOULD BE DISCUSSED WHILE PURCHASING A NEW SPIRITS FILLER OR UPGRADING YOUR EXISTING ONE

F

ogg has become an industry

pressured air to keep the atmosphere

leader in distilleries over the

free of spirits vapours in the filling

past ten years. Brands like

environment,” says Langejans.

Titos Vodka and Makers Mark have become family and

What features are offered for quality

continue to grow with the help of Fogg.

control of the glass bottles?

The high mirror finish has become

Distillers have to keep in mind other

a signature look over the years. The

safety features such as how the bottle

stainless steel is buffed and polished,

is handled during the filling process.

making the surface hygienic and easy

Running glass bottles at high, and

to keep clean, ideal for the distilling

even low speeds through the filler

industry.

may damage the bottle causing glass fragments in the bottle. Glass package

But, when you are thinking of either

features should be placed on the

buying a new or upgrading your old filler,

machine for handling the bottles to avoid

Jay Langejans of Fogg says there are

damage.

some key points you cannot overlook.

There are a few features that Fogg What are the explosion-proof

offers that ensure these quality controls;

certifications and regulations in your

neck support and spring-loaded lifter

country and region?

pedestals help the bottle to be placed

Ask the filling manufacturer what their

directly under the valve without damage.

standards are and how they will work

Fogg’s fully clutched machines will stop

with local laws to make sure that your

before there are issues with bottle jams

team, product, and equipment are

or causing equipment damage. Fogg

kept safe. “Fogg offers multiple ways of

also offers Tri-line valves with polymer

making the filling equipment explosion-

tips to avoid the risk of chipping the

proof, all fitting within ATEX NEC/CEC,

opening during the filling process.

and UL standards. We also use positively

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DISTILLERS JOURNAL

BOTTLING What are your production and marketing standards with fill height?

For spirits, consistency in the fill level is important, you don’t want to have your consumer thinking they are being shorted with a high-end product. Fogg’s filling specialises in level filling, a simple technology compared to others in the spirits bottling equipment. During Fogg’s level filling process, its Tri-line valves simply use gravity and airlock principles to fill each bottle to the correct height repeatedly. Once the product has reached the correct height, the valve shuts off.

What is the right capper that fits your

application, Fogg’s Articulating Jaw can

contracts, and the ability to grow. At

current needs, and any future caps?

handle all three.

Fogg, Langejans says that it focuses

What will marketing throw at you next?

on both the quality of the filler and

As the brand grows, so does the product

What does the support and service on

the quality of the service and parts.

line with new bottles and new caps as

the machine look like?

Additional features Fogg offers to their

your portfolio expands. The standard

Are there monthly, quarterly, and

customers are service and parts plans

spirit cap in the industry is ROPP (Roll on

annually services? Service and support

with a dedicated customer service

Pilfer Proof) or a non-decorative T-cork. If

are paramount, it should be one of

representative to ensure that our

the cap is more decorative, with a metal

the main discussion points. On the

customers are receiving the best service.

finish, glass, or unique figurine, a capper

production floor, time is money, and

Having a customer service rep. makes a

that can accommodate unique caps,

when a machine is down it can cause

difference with being ahead of the issues

ROPP, and T-corks would be ideal for the

a lot of frustration for the team, lose

to eliminate unnecessary downtime.

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

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INDIRECT STEA

THE HEAT IS ON

INDIRECT STEAM GIVES YOU A BETTER PRODUCT AND A SAFER DISTILLERY. STEVE BRADLEY OF AVE UK REPORTS

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T

he way that distillers heat

for bourbon) settles at the bottom of

their feedstock has evolved

the vessel, where it is liable to burning.

in recent years. Traditionally,

In contrast, indirect steam methods

direct heat, known as the

heat the entire vessel contents gently

alembic still method, was

and evenly, creating a more consistent

the preferred option. Although this is

product.

still employed by some distillers, it is increasingly falling out of favour in place

When considering which indirect steam

of indirect steam methods: namely,

method to choose for your distillation

external steam jackets, internal coils, and

project, it is important to understand the

external heat exchangers.

benefits and limitations of each.

The reason for this shift is two-fold.

Internal coils are particularly suited to

Firstly, indirect steam methods are

a clean wash, for example, single malt

safer; removing the direct heat source

whisky production. This is because the

reduces the inherent health and safety

presence of internal coils means that a

risks associated with a naked flame.

mixer cannot also be located inside the

And secondly, the use of indirect steam

pot still, making this method unsuitable

results in a higher quality end product.

for feedstocks containing suspended

This is because with direct heat, the

solids. Aesthetically, however, this is often

flame is targeted only at the bottom

cited as the most pleasing option, as the

of the pot still. As well as increasing

lack of external covering allows the entire

the likelihood of hot spots and uneven

pot still to be encased entirely in copper,

heating, any feedstock containing

if required.

suspended solids (such as whole grain

DISTILLERS JOURNAL

The most versatile indirect steam

As the UK partner to Italian distillation

method is the external steam jacket.

equipment producer Frilli Srl, AVE UK is

Suitable for feedstocks with suspended

well placed to offer the entire Frilli range

solids, such as whole grain washes and

of copper and stainless-steel distilling

fruit distillation, it is also ideal for heating

solutions to UK producers of whisky, gin,

molasses for rum, and for gin distillation.

brandy, rum, vodka, and other spirits. Pot

Comprising a cylindrical pot still

stills from 50 litres in size are available in

containing a mixer, the outside must be

conjunction with all three indirect heat

coated in stainless steel from the bottom

types.

of the pot to the shoulder, making it a less aesthetically pleasing option than

In addition, as an alternative to gas as a

internal coils.

heat source, there is also the option of an electrical heating system; something

External heat exchangers are renowned

which we expect to see continuing to

for their efficiency and flexibility, lending

grow in popularity as more distillers look

themselves well to all types of alcohol

to generate their own renewable energy

distillation. The fact that all maintenance

via the likes of solar panels and wind

is conducted externally, not requiring any

turbines.

The use of indirect steam results in a higher quality end product,” Steve Bradley, AVE UK

access to the interior of the pot itself, only makes them more attractive to distillers.

However, their relatively high cost in comparison with the other two methods only makes this method viable for pot stills with a working volume of 2-3,000 litres or higher.

distillersjournal.info

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67

SPENT GRAINS

LOOKING FOR SPENT GRAIN SOLUTIONS

DISTILLERS USE MASSIVE AMOUNTS OF GRAINS LIKE CORN, RYE, WHEAT, AND BARLEY TO CREATE BOURBON, KENTUCKY’S SIGNATURE SPIRIT, AND OTHER WHISKEYS. THAT CREATES A LOT OF BY-PRODUCT DISTILLERS REFER TO AS SPENT GRAINS, OR STILLAGE. AIMEE NIELSON REPORTS

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T

he University of Kentucky’s

and solutions from problem solvers,

James B. Beam Institute

inventors, entrepreneurs, and businesses

for Kentucky Spirits

to expand uses of stillage.

is conducting several

Berron says some low-tech solutions are

studies to help figure out

already in play. For many years, livestock

how to use all that spent grain and

producers have been primary users of

institute faculty will serve as judges in

stillage for feeding their herds. Larger

an upcoming contest to find innovative

distilleries have invested in equipment to

solutions.

dry out whole stillage and make it more portable, but smaller craft distillers don’t

“With Kentucky producing 95 percent

always have the funds for that. Either way,

of the world’s bourbon, spent grains

stillage has nutritional value for livestock.

are a significant issue in our state,” says

Bourbon distilleries have provided beef

Brad Berron, director of research for the

producers with valuable feedstuff for

Beam Institute. “Our distilleries want to be

centuries.

responsible stewards of their resources.

They want us to come alongside them

“The most recent ethanol boom in the

and find real solutions.”

Midwest which began in the early 2000s

Distillery numbers are up 250 percent

greatly increased access to spent grains

in the past 10 years according to the

from the production of ethanol changing

Kentucky Distillers’ Association. KDA

feedlot diets,” says Jeff Lehmkuhler. beef

reports that for every gallon of bourbon

specialist in the University of Kentucky

produced, 10 gallons of distilling by-

(UK) College of Agriculture, Food and

product or whole stillage, a mixture

Environment. “The production of fuel

of water and mash that remains after

ethanol and ethanol for bourbon are

ethanol evaporates, is left. That equals

essentially identical.”

a mind-boggling one billion gallons of

UK associate professor Eric Vanzant

whole stillage from Kentucky distilling

conducted research that has shown

operations alone.

similar performance for stocker cattle receiving fuel or bourbon-derived dried

The Beam Institute is partnering with

distillers’ grains. However, Lehmkuhler

the Kentucky Distillers’ Association,

says the drastic expansion of bourbon

Team Kentucky Cabinet for Economic

production has not yet resulted in

Development, Distillers Grain Technology

investment in dewatering technology,

Council, KY INNOVATION, Kentucky

leading to large quantities of whole

Energy and Environment Cabinet and

stillage.

innovation incubated to sponsor the Distillers Grains Reverse Pitch.

Whole stillage is what is left after the

Through this effort, the collaborators are

ethanol evaporates out and only water

seeking new and innovative technologies

and mash remain. Feeding it wet replaces

DISTILLERS JOURNAL

SPENT GRAIN

some of the water cattle would normally

rumen and overall animal health allowing

drink. It’s a great source of protein and

us to refine feeding recommendations

energy for cattle.

to the beef industry in the region,”

“Whole stillage contains nearly 93

Lehmkhuler says.

percent water making it a challenge to transport and feed,” Lehmkhuler says. “It is too costly to haul water down the road and whole stillage is a locally available feed resource. In many instances, this is problematic as distilleries are constructed in urban areas with few cattle nearby to utilise the stillage as feed.”

The fuel ethanol industry and larger bourbon distilleries have invested in driers allowing the dried product to be a marketable feedstuff across the United States and beyond. In the 1940s, UK researchers initially investigated feeding

With Kentucky producing 95 percent of the world’s bourbon, spent grains are a significant issue in our state,” Brad Berron, Beam Institute

Don Colliver is the director of the Kentucky Industrial Assessment Centre, housed at UK. His team has been working to determine how energy flows through distilleries.

“In particular, we are looking at various ways of processing the stillage, or that material that comes out of the bottom of the still,” says Colliver, who is also a professor of biosystems engineering in the UK College of Agriculture, Food and Environment. “We have conducted energy audits at six distilleries and identified ways that they might be able to

stillage to beef cattle, but limited feeding

save energy.”

research has been conducted since.

Rodney Andrews is the director for the

“Additional research is needed to

UK Centre for Applied Research and a

increase our understanding of how

professor of chemical engineering. The

stillage may impact fermentation in the

centre, which has a strong programme

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69

SPENT GRAINS

in carbon materials research, is actively

There is also implication for agriculture

studying stillage solutions.

and building materials. We have so much

“We are looking at converting stillage

to explore.”

through a process called hydrothermal

Berron says he believes the best

conversion,” Andrews says. “Basically, you’re heating the stillage under pressure and it will rearrange itself into what’s called ‘char’. At that point it’s really not stillage anymore. It becomes a very high-carbon product that can be used by itself or further processed into porous or conductive carbons.”

Every spirit has a by-product,” Brad Berron, Beam Institute

solutions will come from collaboration and they will be diverse.

“We will likely end up with many answers and have some kind of interconnected web of stillage solutions,” he says.

“Research within the university is already very multidisciplinary and comes from many colleges across campus. We are

Andrews says the centre is working with

really looking forward to the submissions

Carbon Science Solutions, a company

and we can’t wait to work with these

that has optioned the technology, and

folks and share our work with the state’s

several distillery partners to explore

distilleries. Every spirit has a by-product,

products that can be made from

and this competition will elevate the

hydrothermal conversion.

technology and our capability to solve

“There’s a wide range of products we are

the issue in ways that will fit all kinds of

looking at, including those that would

productions scenarios.”

aid in purification, cleaning up a water stream, product stream,” he says. “Other products could be used for energy storage if they are high-purity carbons.

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DISTILLERS JOURNAL

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