The Distillers Journal - Issue 4, Spring 2022

THE MAGAZINE FOR DISTILLERS AND BLENDERS OF SPIRITS

DISTILLERS

J O U R N A L

SPRING 2022 | ISSUE 4 ISSN 2754-0014

THE MACALLAN’S STUART MACPHERSON The Master of Wood on creating magic 54 | THE NEW WAVE IN CRAFT DISTILLERIES AND DISTILLERS

30 | NORWAY’S OHD IS OUT TO TAKE ON THE WORLD

24 | IGNORE GRAIN TERROIR AT YOUR OWN RISK

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WELCOME TO 2022

W

elcome to the lat-

in-between, we’ll always do what we can

est edition of The

to give people a platform to share their

Distlllers Journal!

views and to make themselves heard.

I want to start by

As has been the case from last year’s

thanking everyone

first edition, if you want to get involved,

who took part and helped with our first

please contact me via email at velo@

Distillers Congress in December. Held at

rebymedia.com or Tim Sheahan at tim@

The Brewery in London, in conjunction

rebymedia.com.

with Brewers Congress, it was the Congress that almost wasn’t.

During 2022, the Distillers Lecture series will begin with the first one scheduled to

In keeping with the tradition of Brew-

be in Edinburgh in March. We’ll post more

ers Congress – which has a knack of

information as it becomes available.

choosing dates that coincide with the worse weather of the year – Storm Barra

In this issue we have a special feature

desended. Along with this was the sud-

on sustainability. From electric power to

den impact of the Omicron virus which

plastics to even whisky, sustainability is

kept visitors’ numbers down. To add insult

the buzz word of the moment. But, when

to injury, a cancer operation the week

listening to politicians speak at the recent

before took away most of my speech,

dog and pony show in Glasgow, it’s hard

leaving me mostly warming a seat.

not agreeing with Greta Thunberg and her “blah-blah-blah” take on it all.

The six speakers, however, went all out and if you weren’t there, you might be

So, as an industry then we do nothing? I

kicking yourself. Craft industry favour-

know you believe otherwise.

LEADER

ite – and one of the most helpful people

distillersjournal.info

in the industry – Dr John Walters of

In thinking big, take a holistic view. There

English Spirit started things off, followed

is so much more to sustainability that us-

by Matt Lambert of the Portman Group

ing glass bottles or eliminating single use

and then Nolan Kane of Allied Glass who

plastics. For example, are you creating

gave a brilliant talk on marketing with

sustainability in your community? In small

bottles. Ben Schroder of Pensador held

villages in Scotland, a whisky distillery

everyone’s attention as he talked about

could be what is keeping that village

bringing mescal to the UK, describing

afloat – every one job in a distillery leads

his journeys in rural southern Mexico –

to around four to eight jobs in the area.

not speaking Spanish – while searching out small, craft mescal producers. Bert

Are you developing careers or a tempo-

Albrecht of Ethimex talked about the

rary workforce? Are you depended on

differences in base spirits for gin and rum,

fossil fuels? Is your spent grain going to

who was followed by Matt Servini of Craft

local farmers? And, are you using recy-

Distilling Business. How do you install a

clable bottles?

distillery on a cruise liner? Use a seesaw first, says Matt, to duplicate the motion of

In talking with Gareth Roberts of Organic

the waves.

Distilleries, he described distilleries as legacy products. “If you can get it to the

Our magazine, podcast, and events

point of sustainability, then there’s every

will continue to champion this fantastic

chance your distillery will be here for

industry and you talented people that

hundreds and hundreds of years.”

call distilling home. Whether you’re in the distillery, spirit sales, ingredients supply,

And that is what it is all about.

kit manufacturing, distribution, hospitality, branding or anything and everything

Velo Mitrovich, Editor

SPRING 2022

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3

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CONTENTS

Comment | Flavouring

14

Comment | Packaging

16

Comment | RTDs

18

Focus | Terroir Craft distilleries in the UK, Ireland and the States are realising that the terroir of the grain can give their spirits an edge.

24

In Profile | The Macallan Stuart MacPherson, master of the wood at The Macallan, gives his views on the importance of casks, sherry, and why being a cooper has been a fantastic career.

40

Focus | New wave distilleries New craft distilleries are showing how combining the old with new in archetural style and purpose are creating a legacy for the future.

54

Focus | Green labels While in the big scheme of sustainability it might seem minor, your label is the first thing your customers see and judge you by.

59

Science | Brandy With English grape production up, so too is the potential for more English brandy. Your work begins with the cask.

63

21 Ask a Bartener | Whiskey Smash

With Jack Daniels producing nearly 150 million bottles of a year there is no surprise to find it on UK pub shelf.

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SPRING 2022

DISTILLERS JOURNAL

CONTACTS Velo Mitrovich Editor velo@rebymedia.com +44 (0)1442 780 591 Tim Sheahan Managing Editor tim@rebymedia.com +44 (0)1442 780 592

30

Josh Henderson Head of sales josh@rebymedia.com +44 (0)1442 780 594 Jon Young Publisher jon@rebymedia.com

Oslo Handverksdestiller

Norwegian distillers OHD talk about getting poisoned with botanicals, potatoes, and taking on the world.

48 Sustainability

Do you go green and sustainable for your customers or your own moral compass? When looking at your daily bottom line, it’s a tough decision.

46 Process Management

Distillery management software can take your distillery operations to the next level without requiring significant investment. distillersjournal.info

Reby Media 42 Crouchfield, Hemel Hempstead, Herts, HP1 1PA, UK

SUBSCRIPTIONS The Distillers Journal is a published four times a year and mailed every January, April, July and October. Subscriptions can be purchased for four issues. Prices for single issue subscriptions or back issues can be obtained by emailing: subscribe@ rebymedia.com

UK & IRELAND £29 INTERNATIONAL £49 The content of The Distillers Journal is subject to copyright. However, if you would like to obtain copies of an article for marketing purposes high-quality reprints can be supplied to your specification.

Please contact the advertising team for full details of this service. The Distillers Journal is printed at Manson Group, St Albans, UK.

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or any information storage or retrieval system, without the express prior written consent of the publisher. The Distillers Journal ISSN 2754-0006 is published quarterly by Reby Media, 42 Crouchfield, Hemel Hempstead, Hertfordshire, HP1 1PA. Subscription records are maintained at Reby Media, 42 Crouchfield, Hemel Hempstead, Hertfordshire, HP1 1PA. The Distillers Journal accepts no responsibility for the accuracy of statements or opinion given within the Journal that is not the expressly designated opinion of the Journal or its publishers. Those opinions expressed in areas other than editorial comment may not be taken as being the opinion of the Journal or its staff, and the aforementioned accept no responsibility or liability for actions that arise therefrom.

SPRING 2022

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NEWS

GIN DISTILLERY NUMBERS SOAR

T

he number of UK gin distilleries grew by more than 100 in the last

INCREASING NUMBER OF DISTILLERIES FOCUSSING ON UK SALES It has been a year since the end of the Brexit transition period. Although the major distilling players have been able to jump the hurdles, it’s been a problem for medium and small size craft distillers who try to ship spirits to the EU. Some small gin distillers have told Distillers Journal that they have given up and will now only concentrate on UK sales.

Others, however, will try to continue.

year. According to figured from The Office for National Statistics, there are now 820 in operation, up from 710 in 2020. For context, there were

In a press release, Flanders Trade & In-

190 in operation as recently as 2015.

vestment (FIT) says that it has been help-

Micro distilleries, categorised as those with less than 10 employees,

ing UK companies navigate the new rules

now make up 730 of all sites, up from 620 in 2020.

and enter the EU. It asks: What have been

Hugh Anderson, who runs the small Downton Distillery near Salisbury said: “It’s

the challenges for UK companies trying

brilliant to see the number of small distilleries growing across the UK. Consumers

to export and invest in the EU? How are

everywhere are enjoying premium, craft products like the ones we produce at

UK companies overcoming them?

Downton Distillery.

The changes introduced a year ago were

“This growth has only been able to happen thanks to a stable excise duty regime

numerous and varied between sectors,

instilled by the Chancellor.

but the key ones were new requirements for customs documentation and declaration, changes to transport, logistics and fulfilment (which have caused the infamous delays), changes to product certification requirements and changes to duty and eligibility for preferential rates.

Flanders Investment & Trade said that it has found that UK companies which have continue to trade with Europe have adapted to the changes in different ways.

Most businesses have found the new customs controls a huge burden when the change first happened but are now adapting. Some are paying experts for help which, due to heavy demand, can be expensive, or they’re just paying the customs duty and increasing prices for customers.

Astrid Geeraerts at FIT advised: “It has

“However, while I was delighted to see the Chancellor freeze spirits duty in the

become clear that each EU member

Budget in October, he now needs to take a serious look at the proposed Alcohol

manages the new rules slightly different-

Duty Review reforms and ensure spirits aren’t unfairly penalised. I would also like

ly. This has made it difficult for a company

to see the introduction of a small distiller’s relief, as is standard in the UK’s beer

to export to different member states. We

brewing industry.”

advise companies to enter the EU only once and then export from that country.”

distillersjournal.info

SPRING 2022

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NEWS

COLLAB BETWEEN CRAFT DISTILLERY AND CRAFT BREWER

authority published new food safety rules

an expert in counterfeit bottles, told the

back in April. However, detailed instruc-

NYT. “Most people I see ending up with

tions on how to get the required registra-

fakes are partly to blame themselves.

tion were only announced in October and

Any good con man knows how to take

the website to do the registration only

advantage of someone’s greed.”

Besides UK/Irish spirt manufactures

of the United States, bourbon scammers

One of the USA’s leading craft breweries,

being affected; US distillers are as well.

are finding fertile ground. Luxury bourbon

Sierra Nevada Brewing Co, has teamed

Some diplomats are saying the regu-

is now the hottest thing in whiskey. Do-

with St George Spirits to release Ruth-

lations and how China is going about

mestic sales of super-premium American

less, a malt whiskey blended with spirits

implementing them amounts to a low-

whiskey — bottles valued over $50 —

distilled from grains and hops.

keyed trade war.

nearly doubled from 2016 to 2020, to four

became recently available.

According to the Distilled Spirits Council

million cases, compared with an average

In 2013 the two came together to distil Sierra Nevada’s Ruthless Rye IPA, which was blended with a portion of St George’s single malt whiskey and then laid down in new American oak and used French port casks.

There are 1,000 bottles available for purchase with a limit on two bottles per person.

FAKE BOURBON SELLERS SCAMMING COLLECTORS

Considering the number of craft brewers

A problem that wine and whisky has had

in the UK along with the number of distill-

for years has finally struck the bourbon

ers, this should be easy to duplicate here

collectors market, reports The New York

with the same fanfare.

Times.

growth of 30 percent for all American whiskeys,

NTS LOOKING FOR SITES OF OLD ILLICIT WHISKY STILLS

The NYT says that bourbon in 2022

The National Trust for Scotland is appeal-

NEW CHINESE IMPORT LAWS TO AFFECT UK IRISH SPIRITS

is a counterfeiter’s dream, shaped by

ing to the public to report any sightings of

enormous demand, limited supply and

mysterious structures hidden in remote

a steady inflow of new and naïve fans all

glens so they can be properly cata-

too willing to part with their money — and

logued, reports iNews. There is a chance

unlikely to go to the authorities when

the site could have been used to house

they realised they’ve been swindled in a

a still.

transaction that is by definition illegal.

Thousands of illicit stills were once in

“Part of the problem is the culture I see

existence in hidden areas of the Scottish

Confusion is still reigning supreme in

around bourbon, where it is about brag-

Highlands, but only around 130 sites have

regard to China’s new import laws which

ging rights and being able to Instagram

been discovered and entered onto Scot-

went into effect on 1 January.

a bottle you just bought,” Adam Herz, a

land’s database of archaeological sites.

According to Reuters, China’s customs

whiskey collector in Los Angeles and

While whisky has been taxed in Scotland in some form since the Excise Act of 1644, small scale private production was exempt. However, within a hundred years these private distillers were producing around 500,000 gallons of whisky a year, depriving the Crown of its duty. In 1781 making whisky for private consumption was banned.

Many of these stills kept producing whisky, only now having to go underground and away from the prying eyes of tax collectors or law enforcement officials – thus the Highlands or Isles. The ban did not affect production too badly, it was estimated in 1787 300,000 gallons of

Bourbon scammers are preying on the US collector market

12

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SPRING 2022

whisky were smuggled across the border into England.

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COMMENT

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F

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They are able to develop or match

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only limit is your imagination! What’s

Are you a brand owner, distiller or

more they work collaboratively with you

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every step of the way from concept to

sales and grow the value of your brand?

finished product.

As the market continues to welcome a plethora of new product launches,

Flavours are supplied as premixed

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liquid compounds, containing all the

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Consumers are becoming more

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They eliminate the need to stock and

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varying MOQs, lead times and expiry

them new ways to enjoy their favourite

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medium to large sized distilleries looking

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The Simpsons’ samples service

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ensures confidence and satisfaction.

DISTILLERS JOURNAL

COMMENT Your feedback enables recipes to be amended, where required, until you are completely happy. What’s more, you are able to present ready to taste samples of concept drinks enabling you to engage with prospects and buyers.

Flavours are supplied as premixed liquid compounds, containing all the ingredients required to manufacture your drink.

Simpsons Beverages is proud to be BRC AA accredited, ensuring consistency in every batch they produce. All flavour compounds are blended using the finest raw materials, from the top BRC accredited flavour houses and suppliers.

With exceptional levels of quality control, every batch is micro-analysed by an independent laboratory and has full traceability, with a certificate of conformity. Even the water used in the manufacturing process is triple filtered to remove all impurities and chlorine.

Simpsons Beverages is a third generation, family business with over 85 years’ experience in drink development.

Their reputation for innovation, quality and exceptional customer service, combined with cost effective pricing, has helped them to build a growing, loyal customer base across the globe.

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SPRING 2022

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COMMENT

UNBOXING THE BENEFITS OF MAKING THE RIGHT PRINT CHOICES ANDY CHRISTIE, SALES DIRECTOR OF PRINTING COMPANY HERBERT WALKERS DRAWS ON THE COMPANY’S EXPERIENCE IN DRINKS PACKAGING AND GIFTING TO DISCUSS THE TRENDS, OPPORTUNITIES AND CHALLENGES DISTILLERS NEED TO CONSIDER WHEN SPECIFYING AND PROCURING PRINTED CARTON PACKAGING.

W

hile some brands

seasonal design and special finishes.

are always

Special edition boxes or sleeves

presented in a

provide an opportunity for both added

box, the addition

premiumisation and limited edition

of a carton to any

flavours or blends.

bottle instantly premiumises it, creating

Another trend we’ve been involved

an opportunity to attract new buyers

with over the past few years at Herbert

and capitalise on seasonal and occasion

Walkers is collections of minis for gifting.

gifting.

Again, there are various ways to create

Consequently, it’s important to begin

stand-out with the packaging, from

any discussion on carton printing for

foiling and embossing through to creative

the distillery sector by highlighting the

shapes, such as the three miniatures in a

fact that this is not simply a topic for

cracker-shaped carton we printed for The

the high-end brands, single malts and

Lakes Distillery.

boutique small batch producers. In fact, any distillery, producing any type of spirit

DESIGN AND SPECIFICATION

can use packaging to help their products stand out on shelf.

Protection for the bottle is a key consideration, but decisions about the

GIFTING AND SEASONALITY

weight and finish of the carton must be aligned to the brand and the level of

According to trend analysts, Neilsen,

premiumisation required. A consumer

sales of spirits accounted for more

may expect to pay a little extra for a

than 30% of beer, wine and spirits sales

beautifully packaged version of their

during the 2020 Christmas peak sales

usual tipple, but over premiumisation

period. The value of those seasonal sales

could be cost prohibitive.

increased by £300 million on the previous year and nine per cent more households

A printing company with experience of

bought spirits than during the 2019

the drinks and gifting sectors should be

festive period.

able to advise on the options available to bring the print project in within budget

It will be interesting to see whether part

while still providing a robust and eye-

of this growth is due to the pandemic

catching result.

but those figures provide a compelling

Ensuring the finishes are aligned

reason for distillers to consider how

to the brand and the required level

packaging can help them take a piece of

of premiumisation is also critical.

the seasonal sales pie.

Embellishments such as foiling,

The printed carton can help in a number

embossing and spot gloss should

of ways. In addition to adding instant

enhance, rather than overwhelm the

premiumisation, a box makes a bottle

design and attract the eye without over-

easier to wrap and the nature of the gift

pricing the pack.

less apparent to the recipient. The carton

16

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SPRING 2022

also provides protection for the bottle.

At Herbert Walkers, our expertise in

The carton also provides an opportunity

finishing and in-house capabilities

to reposition the product as a gift with

mean that we can develop solutions

DISTILLERS JOURNAL

COMMENT for distillers that meet their design

cutter profile so that the finished carton

and cost management goals, with full

delivers the correct fit. We also carry out

accountability for lead times and quality

transit tests to check the performance

assurance. It can be beneficial to take

of the packaging before going into full

a bigger picture view of investment in

production.

design and print. For example, by making

The transit tests also check the

all our dies in-house, we can avoid costly

performance of the inks, and this is

delays, ensure accuracy and consistency,

another important area of specification.

and create an asset that can be re-used

There should be no rub or transfer of

to print additional lines. Delivering all

inks in transit or storage, so getting the

finishes in-house also means that we

right mix of inks for use with the chosen

don’t incur the costs or uncertainty of

substrate is vital to ensure the pack looks

outsourcing foils. It’s important to note,

as good when the consumer gets it

therefore, that choice of print supplier

home as it did when it left the factory.

can be just as integral to cost certainty as

EXPERIENCE MATTERS

design and materials.

Another potential pitfall for boxed bottles of spirits is the fit of the bottle within

Many consumers are brand loyal when

the carton. The carton needs to have

it comes to spirits but there is huge

sufficient space for the bottle to move in

potential to attract new audiences

and out smoothly, but not enough for it to

who are seeking out boutique brands,

rattle around.

new flavours and traditional favourites.

Flavours are supplied as premixed liquid compounds, containing all the ingredients required to manufacture your drink, Andy Christir, Herbert Walkers

Achieving the right balance of To ensure we overcome any issues

premiumisation can be challenging, but

with bottle fitting, we always request

working with a printing company with a

sample of the bottle and use computer

trusted heritage in drinks and gifting can

generated design software to create a

help.

Neutral Grain Spirit Organic Grain Alcohol Fermentation Alcohol

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SPRING 2022

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17

COMMENT

GRASP THE RTD OPPORTUNITY THE POPULARITY OF RTDS CONTINUES TO GROW AND CANS ARE AT THE FOREFRONT OF THIS SURGE. HERE, CORE EQUIPMENT OUTLINE HOW YOU CAN TAKE ADVANTAGE OF THIS BURGEONING SECTOR.

F

rom flavour to function,

the reliance on head pressure and liquid

the ready-to-drink (RTD)

temperature to control fills supplied

category, including hard

directly from the tank.

seltzers, is growing as consumer demand for

This can cause the operator to lose

convenience yet tasteful is growing at an

control over “break outs”, resulting in

ever-increasing pace.

product loss as liquid is exposed to the

Underpinned by social media, the

atmosphere during the entire fill process.

visual nature of RTD’s has undergone a

As foaming becomes difficult to control,

resurgence, driven by factors such as

it causes unnecessary overflow and

wellness, environment, premiumization,

oxygen absorption as liquid is piped into

daytime and outdoor consumption,

cans.

RTDs have evolved to capture key developments within the industry.

Oxidation not only causes adverse effects on the aroma and flavour, but also

Previously marked with controversy, cans

reduces shelf life and nutrient retention

are now becoming just as premium to its

of a beverage to that of a counter

revival. Due to the portable nature of the

pressure fill. Some products are affected

category, canned formats have become

by oxygen as the proteins can become

prevalent in the RTD category, allowing

disturbed. It is crucial to maintain quality

consumers to drink complex cocktails

to mitigate oxygen absorption during the

with easy portability and minimal fuss.

packaging process.

As the growth within the RTD market

By equalizing the pressure from tank to

continues to rise, the debate now

can, cans can be filled faster with little

surrounds the canning line itself.

to no foaming whilst also maintaining

The method previously only used

the carbonation levels. This is done by

by large scale beverage producers,

purging the air from the can whilst filling

counter pressure technology has been

it with CO2. By keeping liquid under

successfully scaled down and made

pressure throughout the fill process,

available for craft beverage producers at

CO2 is kept in a beverage, as the liquid is

an affordable price.

transferred between the two containers, making it taste the way you intended. The

Counter pressure technology gives

CODI can achieve levels of 6.2g per litre

the operator complete control over the

(3 vol of CO2).

conditions inside the can during the fill process. The process allows for faster

Counter pressure canned drinks

filling while simultaneously preventing

eliminate these events, by having an

oxygen absorption and product loss as

airtight seal concealing the liquid from

the liquid travels through a series of valve

the atmosphere and therefore, oxygen

operations and pressurization.

absorption, purging cans with a product stable gas before filling. Oxygen is a

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SPRING 2022

The alternative to counter pressure filling

beverage’s worst enemy. A counter

is gravity filling. A disadvantage with

pressure canning machine keeps the

gravity filling carbonated products, is

oxygen pick up level to a minimum

DISTILLERS JOURNAL

COMMENT

of 10ppb effectively stopping the

packaging solution for beverage

production line, as this is a reflection

consequences of oxidation from the

producers. Furthermore, cans are

on your business. Marketing your brand

beginning.

lightweight, easily stackable, and great

correctly means investing in the whole

Additionally, counter pressure supports

for mail order. The lightweight and

line, including the labelling machine.

beverages such as RTD’s which can

compact nature of cans means shipping

The greater surface area cans allow

contain nitrogen as this process does

requires less fuel, thus fewer CO2

for means there is several options from

not interfere with the widget. Instead,

emissions.

individual only to full wrap around

by retaining the integrity of the scents,

labelling to promote your product to the

flavours and colours, the counter

The need for less space allows more

pressure filled cans, guarantees shelf

deliverables of a product to supermarket

stability both in refrigerated and ambient

shelves and more commercially viable

Packaging in-house also gives you full

temperatures. Nitrogenating beverages

options for those who have a higher

ownership over the final product ensuring

is becoming increasingly popular as it

turnover of product at lower price points.

the quality is never compromised.

can improve flavour, mimic sweetness

consumer.

Alternatively, as a contract packer, it is

without adding sugar, and add a creamy

Versatility and flexibility are key when

important for your customers to trust in

finish to achieve a unique beverage.

purchasing a canning line. Our machine

your company. As you are responsible for

Nitrogenating is supported in counter

is suitable for various can sizes ranging

how your customers product is handled

pressure technology.

from 150ml slim to the 500ml standard

and presented to the end consumer,

The environmental benefits cans

and can be equipped with changeable

investing in the right equipment is critical

endorse, support the new wave of

parts whilst canning at speeds of up to 55

to success.

those “eco-minded” consumers whose

cans per minute. The versatility and ease

awareness on the environmental

of can size changeover gives the ability

We have an experienced team who

impact’s beverage packaging have on

to mix up your packaging according to

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the atmosphere are now consequently

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purchase through to maintenance

opting for more ecological alternatives.

and servicing of your machine. We

In the UK, over 70% of cans are now

While accessibility remains important for

provide comprehensive installations,

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RTDs, visual identity is key. Packaging

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distillersjournal.info

SPRING 2022

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18/01/2022 10:56:50

ASK A BARTENDER

ASK A BARTENDER

ASK A BARTENDER ABOUT:

AMERICAN WHISKEY

IN TRYING TO FIGURE OUT THE NEXT BIG THING, YOU CAN TALK TO DISTILLERS. OR YOU CAN TALK TO THOSE POURING FOR CUSTOMERS, THE BARTENDERS. PICK A QUIET NIGHT, PULL UP A STOOL, AND FIND OUT WHAT PEOPLE ARE DRINKING.

distillersjournal.info

W

ith Jack Daniels producing nearly 150 million bottles

WHISKEY SMASH

of whiskey a year, followed by Jim

A Whiskey Smash is a great drink, and

Beam producing just shy of 130 million

you can chuck some extra fruit in to

bottles, there is no surprise that it’s an

add a twist.

extreme rarity to find a UK pub or bar that

50ml Bourbon

does not have both on its shelf.

25ml Lemon Juice

Kentucky bourbon and Tennessee

15ml Sugar Syrup

whiskey are often mentioned in the

10 mint leaves

same breath and are nearly identical,

Seasonal berries

but as our guest bartender will tell you,

Shake all with ice to ‘SMASH’ it up.

there are some key differences. Both are

Fine strain out over fresh ice

American-made distilled spirits that have regulations regarding production.

While 95 percent of Bourbon is made in Kentucky, it can actually be produced

from the place where they were distilled.

anywhere within the United States, with

This law was more or less forgotten until

states such as New York, Colorado, Texas

2013 when Tennessee whiskey maker

and, surprisingly, Utah getting in on the

George Dickel brought some of its

act with award-winning bourbons.

whiskey to neighbouring Kentucky for

But make Tennessee whiskey outside of

aging and things really got murky.

the Volunteer State and suddenly it’s just

Earlier the companies that own Jack

American whiskey – it needs to be made

Daniels – Brown-Forman – and George

in Tennessee, just like Scotch whisky is

Dickel – Diageo – had a spat over the use

from Scotland, Tequila from Mexico, and

of new oak barrels. Jack Daniels wanted

Cognac is from France. Simple, right?

to keep the law; Diageo argued that it

No, far from it. A 1937 law requires that

made whiskey makers dependent on the

all spirits made in Tennessee be aged in

supply of new barrels. What’s wrong with

Tennessee, no more than a county away

using used barrels?

SPRING 2022

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21

ASK A BARTENDER Tennessee legislature voted in favour

back some of the yeast-growth for the

of Jack Daniels and then the fun really

next loaf, distillers hold back some of the

began.

spent mash to add into the next. By doing

According to US National Public Radio

this, distillers can ensure their mash

(NPR), state attorneys in Nashville

pH remains with acceptable levels and

complained that the George Dickel

there is a consistent flavour from batch

distillery had moved barrels of whiskey

to batch. This method, too, regulates

outside the state, into Kentucky, for aging

bacterial growth.

— which as mentioned would violate the

However, not all American whiskey

1937 law.

distilleries swear by this method, saying

Diageo promptly sued Tennessee,

that it had its day back when sanitation

alleging that the law was unconstitutional.

standards were lax, but now ‘sweet

They also pointed out that this was the

mash’ is more preferable. With sweet

first time the state had actually enforced

mash, instead of using the old mash for

the law — suspiciously soon after

the new, each batch uses fresh yeast.

Dickel protested the state’s newer rules

Proponents say they are able to distil at

regarding new casks.

a lower proof of 130 (65% ABV), requiring

Peace was finally restored when George

then less water to be added to the final

Dickel’s master distiller said that the

product, resulting in a more flavourful,

whiskey hadn’t been brought to Kentucky

smoother whiskey, or at least claims the

for aging, but only for blending. All of

distilleries – mostly small craft – using

its aging took place in Tennessee. This

this more expansive technique.

seemed to appease the whiskey gods.

Despite all the similarities between

What was firmed up through all of this

Tennessee and bourbon, Brown

is both bourbon and Tennessee whisky

doesn’t see the two whiskies being

require the same corn percentage in the

interchangeable when making drinks.

mash ingredients – at least 51% – and

“I construct drinks purely about flavour.

must be aged in new charred oak barrels.

If a recipe called for bourbon, I’d use a

The distilling difference is that Tennessee

bourbon. If I’m constructing a new drink,

whiskey must go through a charcoal

then I lead-in with the flavour of what fits

filtering process called the Lincoln

best for the drink I’m making,” he says. “As

Tea, Whiskey Sour, and Whiskey Smash

County Process, which mellows the

far as being interchangeable with mixed

[see recipe at end] all work well with

whiskey’s character. Don’t use the Lincoln

drinks and cocktails, for me that would

Tennessee whiskey. You need drinks that

County Process and your Tennessee

be the same as making a cocktail with

you can control the sweetness to bring

whiskey is Tennessee bourbon. This is far

Islay instead of Speyside whisky. So, the

out the flavours.”

from being seen as a bad thing. Sweeten

question really is: Are you changing the

While everyone knows Jack Daniels,

Cove Tennessee Bourbon Whiskey was

drink because that’s what’s wanted or are

Brown says that Uncle Nearest, George

just released, and it will set you back

you making it wrong?”

Dickel Barrel Select, and Chattanooga

around £150 – if you can find a bottle

If you plant yourself near a bar, one drink

are Tennessee brands that need to be

here.

you’ll hear throughout the night being

discovered. While there are around 30

“Obviously every brand is different, but

ordered is Jack Daniels and Coca-Cola.

distilleries making Tennessee whiskey, in

in general you find Tennessee whiskies

Call it JD & coke, Jack & coke, or Jack-

the USA there are currently 657 bourbon

to be sweeter and fruitier in flavour than

coke, it seems to be a match made in

distilleries – an increase over last year by

a bourbon,” says Carl Anthony Brown,

heaven.

over 16 percent.

award winning bartender and creator of

“Those that love combination must have

“With that many, there’s loads that

Crossip, a ground-breaking non-alcoholic

a sweet tooth!” says Brown. “That’s a

drinkers should head out and explore. My

spirit. “The average drinker can tell the

good starting point for understanding

safety fall back plan is always the lovely

difference between the two.”

taste. I would say a lot of the flavours in

Wild Turkey 151,” he says.

Although neither has to be made with

Jack match with those found in Cola.”

While many people mention rye in the

sour mash, virtually all major bourbon

Or – as some claim – it’s just a drink that’s

same breath as bourbon and Tennessee

and Tennessee whiskey distilleries use

easy to ask for.

whiskey, Brown is asked if it’s a category

the sour mash technique, even though

“Aside from the flavours working yes,

completely by itself? “It’s drier, crisper

only a portion boast about this such as

I’d agree that it’s been a popular drink

and more fiery. I personally think a good

Jack Daniels and probably all wish who

that’s been around for a long time so for

rye is the best American whiskey. Yes,

ever invented the term came up with

drinkers it rolls off the tongue,” he says. “I

I’d treat it as its own category unless you

something more marketing friendly.

found that cocktails such as Lynchburg

were just lumping all American whiskies

Like with sour dough bread and holding

Lemonade, Bloody Mary, Tennessee Iced

together.”

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Carl Anthony Brown, is an award-winning bartender, mixologist and TV drink’s expert. Some of Carl’s accolades include winner of ‘The Young British Foodies’, IMBIBE ‘Drinks List of the Year and many more. He’s worked for 17 years in the bar and drinks industry, including creating the drinks concept across the Dishoom group. His latest venture has been launching the alcohol-free spirit, Crossip in 2020.

He is best described as a man who is seldom without an opinion.

DISTILLERS JOURNAL

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

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TRENDING

TALK OF TERROIR

HARD TO PRONOUNCE AND TRICKY TO SPELL, BUT GRAIN TERROIR IS DEFINITELY SOMETHING YOU SHOULD BE LOOKING INTO TO GIVE YOUR CRAFT WHISKY A UNIQUE LOCAL FLAVOUR WITH A STRONG MARKETING TOOL. VELO MITROVICH REPORTS.

24

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SPRING 2022

N

o doubt you’ve

Master distiller Rob Arnold says yes,

experienced this. You

based on his experience in whiskey

been asked to bring a

distilling in Texas and in whisky/whiskey

bottle of ‘nice wine’ to

research around the world, including

a party. As you stand

Ireland’s Waterford Distillery. In fact, he

there looking at the hundreds of bottles

feels so strong about this subject – and

in the supermarket, arranged by colour,

message – that he’s written the most

age, price, region, grape variety – or a

detailed study of grain terroir that exists

combination of any or all – you’re left

today, ‘The Terroir of Whiskey’. And, it is a

wondering: “How can I ever choose?”

very enjoyable read.

You know that no matter what you pick, somebody at the party will make a face

Besides being a journey of discovery

at your selection and say: “I only drink

of flavour, it is also on the science of

chardonnay from grapes grown from this

flavour and why grain terroir does matter

little west-facing hill near Ardèche.”

in spirits. This, he found out, is being

And you think “Well sacré bleu to you

put into practice by a new generation of

and your terroir,” as you pour yourself a

craft distillers, plant breeders and local

whisky from Islay.

farmers who are bringing back the grain flavours that whisky/whiskey drinkers

With whiskies/whiskeys, while there are

loved 100-years ago.

national and regional styles, the concept of terroir doesn’t exist. The bottle might

WHAT HAPPENED TO GRAIN

say Scotch Whisky or Kentucky Bourbon, but the grain used could come from

According to Arnold, since its beginnings,

anywhere in the world and could have

the whiskey industry has basically been

even been combined with different

tied to the evolution of grain and the rise

varieties of the same grain.

of commodities up until the late 1800s.

With the proof coming from having been

“Before then, there was there was no

involved in numerous taste tests, with

such thing as a seed company so every

100 percent certainty Distillers Journal

variety of grain that existed would have

can say the most people can taste the

been what we call today ‘heirlooms’,”

difference between single estate – terroir

Arnold tells the Distillers Journal.

– wines, coffee, tea, chocolate, and olive oil. Cheese and even some beef show

Those grains would have been selected

the effect of terroir as well.

by farmers for whatever traits they were interested in. That would have obviously

Winemakers universally accept that

been things like yield and how accessible

where a grape is grown influences its

it was from a harvest team standpoint –

chemistry, which in turn changes the

standability, height, things like that – but

flavour of the wine. A detailed system has

also flavour.

codified the idea that place matters to wine.

“Remember, we didn’t used to feed grain to chickens and cows. We cared about

So why don’t we feel the same way about

the flavour of the grain, of the corn, of the

whiskey and the grain used to produce

wheat or rye, it’s what we were feeding

it? Does it seem too impossible for any

our families, not our livestock. There were

terroir taste to be able to come through

only local regional varieties of grain that

the grain after it has been malted,

were adapted to a place and handed

boiled, combined with yeast, fermented,

down from farmer to farmer. And with

distilled, casked in an oak barrel, and

that you had 1,000s of distilleries, dotting

aged?

the landscape here in the United States and elsewhere producing spirits from

DISTILLERS JOURNAL

Below (r): Grace O’Reilly, lead agronomist for Waterford Distillery Bottom page: (r): Seamus Duggan, a well-known grower in Waterford.

TRENDING

local grains. There was no such thing as

expensive and white bread was only for

corn used to make spirits at TX Whiskey

high-yield, modern variety hybrid grains

the wealthy. But with roller mills, it was

where he worked.

that suppressed flavour in favour of yield,”

quick, easy, and cheap to separate out

he says.

the various parts of wheat, leaving white

While watching corn being harvested

flour behind with very little in it. Indeed,

with Sawyer, the two men got into a

Once we got into the 20th century and

so much was removed from the flour that

discussion about this specific corn,

especially after World War Two, some of

by law it ultimately it had to be enriched

what were its uses and the whole

the world’s war industries ‘beat a sword

with nutrients.

idea of flavour – which John Sawyer sidestepped. Arnold didn’t let up,

into a ploughshare’ and turned their focus to agriculture.

The bread industry loved this white

however, and asked him at what point

More efficient farming techniques in the

flour. With the wheat oil and other parts

was grain flavour considered. Sawyer

grain producing areas of North America,

removed, milled flour could be stored

answered: “Us farmers don’t get paid for

the Soviet Union, Brazil, Argentina, and

much longer and white flour was easier

flavour. Grain is a commodity. We get

Australia, along with synthetic fertilisers

to use in automated bakery machines,

paid for yield.”

and hybrid varieties of grain, allowed

allowing for the huge, mega-bread

production to soar like never before,

companies we have today. According

That was the catalyst for Arnolds’ world

especially with wheat.

to Arnold, you were left with two

journey to find out what happened to

“You had this massive grain surplus,

huge markets for grain –animal feed

grain flavour, does it affect whisky/

which was perfect for the commodity

and baking companies – and neither

whiskey taste, and what would it take to

market, and all of a sudden we were

cared about the flavour of grain. Plant

reintroduce terroir into the spirits industry.

shifting this grain to animal feed,

researchers worked on creating high-

producing meat at a level we never had

yield varieties for these markets which is

before,” says Arnold.

where we are today.

WHAT IS TERROIR

None of this really crossed Arnold’s mind

As Arnold says, it is not nearly as

In the 1860s roller mills were introduced

until in 2014 when Arnold was visiting

complicated as some make the concept

first in Europe and then in the United

Sawyer Farmers, a large farm which

out to be. In a nutshell, terroir is how the

States. Before these mills, white flour was

supplied all the barley, rye, wheat, and

variety, the genetics, and the growing

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DISTILLERS JOURNAL

TRENDING

To me, terroir is all about discovering old chemistry that we’ve lost through the modern process of plant breeding and the industrial agriculture,” Rob Arnold

environment impact flavour.

and you can shift that tapestry. So how

to be convinced it’s something real

“To me, terroir is all about discovering

much does terroir matter? This is it’s

and worthwhile and something that

old chemistry that we’ve lost through the

a debate that will never be answered

commodity grain elevators can’t deliver.

modern process of plant breeding and

because it depends on how much you

To be honest, even most small distilleries

the industrial agriculture. This discovery

want to highlight it in your process,” says

would take some convincing. Although

will lead to diversity of flavour, new

Arnold.

grain identity preservation is much easier

flavours and flavours we’ve forgotten. It’s

“If you are segregating grain varieties and

in two-thousand-pound bulk bags, there

connecting to the land and who you’re

the farms where they come from, and

are still the financial and logistical issues

working with; it’s knowing where your

distilling them separately, you’re going

of finding the right farms, harvesting the

grain comes from,” he says.

to find some distinct differences in the

identity-preserved grain separately, and

whiskies that are produced from them.

storing the bulk bags between harvests.

While this might sound very abstract

So, to me It depends on how you pursue

and airy-fairy, Arnold lays down scientific

it.

“In addition to these challenges, most

evidence for this in his work with Ale

“In the end, we’re not bringing in

grain farmers have spent their lives

Ochoa from Texas A&M and with his own

unknown rare flavour compounds,

selling solely to the grain elevators that

doctoral thesis research work.

whether it’s whiskey or wine or beer.

serve the commodity market. For farmers

“Through my PhD studies, we found that

In most cases, we’re talking about the

to grow, harvest, store and sell grain

a lot of the aldehydes which are derived

same set of 50 to 80 compounds that

that maintains the identity of terroir and

from oxidation of lipids in the grain during

are important for flavour across all these

is destined for whiskey as opposed to

mashing and distillation, and during high

beverages. What impacts flavour is

a commodity grain elevator, distillers

temperature processes are impacted

the concentration of those compound.

would have to reward them for their

by terroir.” But, despite all the scientific

Different terroirs will play a role in the

efforts.”

research, Arnold admits it’s not a straight

concentration,” he says.

MORE SALES

line when it comes to whisky flavour.

To quote from the book: “Before “It’s this very complicated tapestry,

making efforts to capture and highlight

So, the question becomes – for both

whiskey flavour, and you pull one thread

terroir, large distilleries would need

small and large distilleries – is it worth

distillersjournal.info

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27

TRENDING

the effort? “It’s a personal decision that

about it, don’t do it, because it’s not worth

connection to your local region, you have

each distillery is going to have to make.

the effort.

the ability to create relationships with

There is a logistical effort when it comes

“But if you’re trying to tap into it, you

farmers and use that in your messaging.

to highlighting terroir and whiskey and

need to look at the new distilleries and

You have the ability to really focus on

there is a financial burden that’s going

especially this whole new movement of

sustainability to your area and also tell

to be there because it’s going to cost

craft distilleries. You have this explosion

that story.”

more than just buying grain from the

of the number of distilleries that exists

commodity market,” says Arnold.

now. If you’re going to succeed you have

In the end, will that lead to more spirit

to first in own your own backyard.

sales? “I don’t know but the whole story together is a powerful, powerful message

“Even if you’re buying from specialty grain brokers that deal with whiskey

“At TX Distillery, we did a great job

and it’s an authentic message,” says

distilleries and breweries – and especially

connecting to the community of Fort

Arnold.

specialised food producers – you’re still

Worth. We could tell them that not

going to pay more than you would with

only are they drinking local because it’s

‘The Terroir of Whisky’ is available in the

any of the more proven systems.

made in this place, but also because the

UK through Amazon. In addition, be sure

“It comes down to a lot of things. Is there

ingredients came from here too.

to listen to Distillers Journal Podcast with

a market? Is this where you’re going to

“It’s a really powerful message and it’s

Rob Arnold.

hang some at your marketing power

obviously a flavour application. But it

because it if you’re not going to talk

also goes beyond that, you have the

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DISTILLERS JOURNAL

BIG INTERVIEW

HYGGE-LED SPIRIT TAKES ON THE WORLD

DON’T THINK OF OHD AS A NORWEGIAN DISTILLERY, THINK OF IT AS A DISTILLERY THAT WANTS TO TAKE ON THE WORLD BY SELLING A SPIRIT FEW KNOW. HOW OHD IS DOING IT – WHILE HAVING FUN– IS A LESSON FOR US ALL. VELO MITROVICH REPORTS

30

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SPRING 2022

O

ver drinks in Trondheim,

in the West and co-founded the Kyoto

a Norwegian friend

Distillery; and Martin Krajewski who came

stares into his beer and

from the wine industry and ran several

says: “You know, there’s

wineries, including two in Bordeaux. With

something wrong with us

such founders, it was always natural for

Norwegians. There’s only about 5 million

the distillery to think internationally.

of us, living in a spread-out country. But ask any Norwegian what they dream of

“If you are going to make it in the alcohol

and that’s to have a cabin in the middle

industry in Norway, you have to really

of nowhere, away from everyone. Hell,

look at export. And of course, there has

we all are already living in the middle of

been now for quite a few years talk about

nowhere!”

how aquavit could be the next big thing

Maybe that’s why Norwegians are always

in in spirits. It hasn’t happened yet but

looking outside of their country for a

there’s a very large interest. So of course,

market. This is true from oil producers

that was always the idea behind the

to salmon farmers to noir authors to

distillery, to bring aquavit to the world.”

distillers. But, instead of shaping their product for outsiders, they want to shape

What is aquavit? Go to the sidebar for

outsiders for their unique product. Case in

more detailed information but the short

point, the spirits being produced by Oslo

answer is – spelled either aquavit, akevitt,

Handverksdestiller – Oslo Handcrafted

or akvavit – it’s the national drink of

Distiller – better known as OHD.

Scandinavia, with each country putting its own spin on it. The production of aquavit

“I think all the time it has been the idea

is very similar to gin but is either carraway

of OHD to bring our [Norwegian] spirits

or dill-led instead of juniper.

to the world. You have to think that Norway’s market is quite a small and

If you’ve ever had it before, you might

with the legal drinking age at 20, you’re

remember gagging or spitting it out. This

not really looking at five million potential

is no fault of the spirit but of production.

customers,” says Frederick Dahl. Like

Compared to the UK and States, Norway

in any craft distillery or brewery, each

has had more than its share of Byzantine

member of the team wears various hats.

distilling laws, brought about in part by a

Today Dahl is wearing his sales and

very religious, conservative portion of the

marketing manager cap.

population. Prohibition might have ended by law in 1927, but not by the spirit of the

Dahl says that OHD was founded by

law.

three experienced members of the beverage industry. Marius Vestnes who

Before Prohibition there were around

established the beer and spirits importer

10,000 registered distilleries in Norway.

Cask in the Nordic market; Marcin

After the 10-years of Prohibition ended,

Miller who built up Japanese whisky

the state took over control of distilling

DISTILLERS JOURNAL

If you are going to make it in the alcohol industry in Norway, you have to really look at export,” Frederick Dahl, OHD

Team Oslo Handverksdestille: 2021

OSLO HANDCRAFTED DISTILLER production and the sale of all alcoholic

decided to go out into the countryside

products. Until 2005, all Norwegian spirits

and look for the oldest person around

were produced by just six distilleries

who might remember what local

and sold in only 95 state-run shops

botanicals were used.

throughout the country. Despite alcohol costing a small fortune in Norway, with

“It might have been quite naïve for us

such a monopoly, production wasn’t

to do that. But yeah, we went out to the

always a labour of love. Indeed, there

forests in the greater Oslo area, basically

were – and are – liquor and butcher

looking for the the oldest guy we could

shops in the Danish port town of

find, and we’d ask: ‘What did your

Hirtshals which do nothing but cater to

granddad put in his herbal schnapps?’

Norwegians who run off the ferry, shop,

They’d think about it and say: ‘Yeah, I

and run back before the ferry departs.

remember it was this thing at the end of the field there. Something behind the old

“The state’s monopoly might have ended

outhouse.’ So, we’d ask if we could pick

in 2005 but it wasn’t like you could flip

some and they’d say ‘sure’.”

a switch and start producing spirits. A few distilleries opened around 2009, we

They would then distil the sample to see

started in 2015 and then moved to these

what it tasted it. It was about this time

premises in 2017,” says Dahl.

they discovered that people’s memories

We just went through the garden, saw what was growing there and started distilling these herbs for flavour,” Frederick Dahl, OHD

couldn’t be relied on and after a few With large-scale aquavit production, the

times of distilling what were poisonous

idea of producing the best spirit wasn’t

plants, they decided to have a re-think of

so much the idea as was using what was

their approach to the problem.

on hand. What few people today seem to realise is just how poor of country

What struck them was that the western

Norway was until oil production started in

distilling tradition came from the Arabs

the late 1960s. Until then one of its main

who weren’t trying to make booze,

exports was salted cod, sold to primarily

but instead to make medicine. Just

Spain, Italy, and Greece. Spain, in turn,

outside of Oslo is a museum with a

sold fortified wine to Norway. With empty

garden containing traditional Norwegian

casks cluttering up the landscape, all

medicinal plants. If those plants were

aged spirits in Norway went in sherry

used also for aquavit, at least they

casks.

wouldn’t have to worry about being killed by their concoctions.

The team at OHD suspected that once upon a time aquavit was a superior

“At the Natural History Museum, they

drink, but how it was made before the

have an herb garden. So, we knew that

government took control, they didn’t

everything that grows there also grows in

know. To be made in Norway and be

Norway, and it’s been used in traditional

called aquavit, the base neutral spirit had

medicines and most likely used in spirits

to come from potatoes and the flavour

as well. And there is a good chance it

had to be carraway led, but outside that,

won’t hurt us,” says Dahl.

it was up to the distiller. The state-run distillers used a considerable number of

“So, we just went through the garden,

imported herbs such as star anise, but

saw what was growing there and

what did it taste like before that? There

started distilling these herbs for flavour.

must have been more a focus on local

That’s what became the flavour palette

botanicals.

we used when we made our spirits.”

Although it might sound like the distillery

NORWEGIAN TERROIR

was mothballed while the great aquavit ingredient search was taking place, this

From the beginning, OHD’s founders

was far from the case.

decided that they wanted all of their spirits to reflect the terroir of Norway and

A digestif-style bitter Marka came first

to made with Norwegian botanicals. For

from OHD, named after the protected

this more natural tasting aquavit, they

forest around Oslo from which its

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NORWEGIAN AQUAVIT

way. But conservative Norwegians were

discovered all the time in a cask did won-

sceptical – the potato was not mentioned

ders for the drink and cask aging began.

in the Bible. However, once it discovered

In 1833, there were 10,000 distilleries in

that potatoes could be used to make

Norway. New distillation technology and

Aquavit, akevitt, akvavit are all different

spirits and precious grain could then be

focus on innovation provided great varie-

way of writing aquae vitae, meaning the

kept for bread, potatoes took off. What

ty and higher quality of the liquor. At this

water of life. First mentioned in 1531, it is

helped too was that in Norway’s cold

point aquavit was also an important ex-

a botanical spirit a lot like gin, but instead

climate, potatoes did better than grain on

port item. Many Norwegians believe that

of being juniper-led, it must be led by

farms.

aquavit could have been a world-leading spirit category if this positive develop-

distilled carraway or dill.

After the Danish ruler of Norway prohib-

ment had been allowed to continue.

It is the native spirit of all of Scandinavia,

ited small scale distilling, a union with

However, it did not.

but each country makes it slightly differ-

Sweden in 1816 brought this back. In or-

A gradual tightening of the Alcohol Act

ent, ranging from being dill or carraway

der to hide the taste of bad spirits, strong

culminated in a prohibition period in Nor-

led, barrel aged, or what type of base

flavoured carraway was added. About

way from 1916 to 1926 and then a state

spirit is used. In Norway aquavit must be

this time a Norwegian trader decided

monopoly on distillation from 1927. This

based on a potato neutral spirit, flavoured

he’d sell aquavit to the Batavians (today’s

meant the end of innovation, diversity,

with carraway, and usually put in a sherry

Indonesians). They, however, already had

and exports. This changed in 2015 when

cask for minimum of six months. The type

arak and saw no need for potato spirits

a few enthusiasts built a small distillery

of cask, however, can vary.

so the trader brought his casks of aquavit

with big ambitions and called it Oslo

In the 1700s the potato reached Nor-

back to Norway. Once back home, it was

Håndverksdistilleri, OHD.

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33

OSLO HANDCRAFTED DISTILLER

botanicals are sourced. Norway has a

wort, wormwood, rowanberry, and three

The next spirit produced was Vidda Tørr,

‘right to roam’ law which allows people to

others.

OHD’s answer to a traditional British dry

hike, camp and forge – within limits – on

“If you go back a few hundred years, all

gin, inspired by a winter hike to Vestnes’

privately owned land. This bitter, created

beers in Norway were made with bog

cabin in the mountains which is depicted

by founding distiller Dave Gardonio,

myrtle,” says Dahl. “After it has macerated

on the label. The deep blue hue of the

contains 16 botanicals in total: Bog myrtle

to the desired result, it gets to rest in 200

bottle was inspired by the colour of

– the most prominent –yarrow, juniper

litre oak barrels. We have reused the

native bilberries.

berries, meadowsweet, heather flowers,

same barrels for every batch of Marka

chamomile flowers, elderflowers, rose

made. Before bottling we sweetened it a

“When you taste Vidda Tørr gin you are

hips, gentian, rhubarb root, St John’s

little bit with Norwegian honey.”

getting the true smell and taste of the

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OSLO HANDCRAFTED DISTILLER

When you taste Vidda Tørr gin you are getting the true smell and taste of the Norwegian mountains,” Frederick Dahl, OHD

Norwegian mountains. That’s why we

“Making a London dry gin with only

Other drinks include Fjæra Rosé Gin

couldn’t bring our self to put the name of

ingredients that grow naturally in the

which gets it colour from being aged in

a foreign city on the label – Tørr means

Norwegian climate has not been the

St Emilion red wine casks; Norwegian

dry in Norwegian,” says Dahl.

easiest thing we have done, and we

Birch Wood Vodka, and OHD’s two

“To best capture and preserve the

have learned a lot on the way,” says Dahl.

signature aquavits, cask-aged OHD

aromas of the botanical we combine two

“But we have received recognition for

Akevitt and Akevitt Blank.

techniques in the same distillation. Some

our efforts. In 2020 we won a Gin Master

of the botanicals we place directly into

award, with Vidda Tørr recognised as

OHD Norweigan Akevitt, 41% ABV, is a

the pot. Others, like the lighter floral and

being one of the best super premium

lighter take on traditional aquavits. It’s

herbal plants, we have in a vapour basket.

gins in the world.”

barrelled age for at least 18 months in

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35

OSLO HANDCRAFTED DISTILLER bourbon casks which Dahl says works better with the spirit’s lighter style.

Because Akevitt Blank is not aged, it cannot be labelled as Norwegian akevitt.

Blank allows for a stronger role of juniper in its flavour – along with carraway – which makes this ideal for cocktails.

The distilling of all of OHD’s spirits takes place in its distillery in Oslo with a Carl still and its hybrid pan that can hold up to 650 litres. Cask-aged spirits find their way to a storage unit about 5km away.

All spirits are bottled either on site or at a nearby second bottling line.

Although due to Covid it has not been used as much as in previous years, the site has a beautiful tasting room which can also be booked for private events.

Besides Norway, other markets include the rest of the Nordic countries, the UK, Germany, France, and Italy. There were more markets OHD was going to go into but, again, with Covid, expansion plans have slowed down for the movement.

THE IMAGE OF HYGGE For many years the logo of the Norwegian farmed salmon industry was a drawing of a rugged, bearded man, wearing a heavy rolled-neck sweater, with ‘Norges salmon’ written underneath him. That was it.

In asking a Norwegian consulate in Hong Kong about it during a food promotion, she said what else do you need? She said that when looking at that simple design and two words, most people were flooded with images ranging from fjords to snowy mountains, to beautiful blondes, to rugged men. “Just think,” she said, “if we tried to write all of that out in an ad. It would take people a day just to read it.”

You have to wonder if OHD is hoping to do something similar with its Norwegian terroir spirits. You can smell and taste the botanicals, giving you this image of Norway, but Dahl – very surprisingly – says no. It is something else they are after.

“Of course, there is this interest,

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OSLO HANDCRAFTED DISTILLER

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37

OSLO HANDCRAFTED DISTILLER

especially since we have done so much

things such as creating well-being and

the world. It has this aura of gathering

in trying to make this sense of place

taking care of each other. We have that

people around because you sit down at a

of Norwegian nature in our spirits. But

word ‘hygge’ that conveys this, this

table with your small group of friends and

we also see it as a keen interest in the

feeling of closeness, those things that

family, and you share a meal and your

Scandinavian way of living.

make life worthwhile.

share a bottle of aquavit. It’s not about the drinking, it’s about the hygge. And I

“We think that especially now, after the pandemic, people are even more keen

“And we have aquavit, which is quite

think that this way of life is going to be

about the Nordic way of life, those small

unique, there is no other spirit like it in

more important to people now than ever.”

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DISTILLERS JOURNAL

hoga stills & FLUID HEATER SYSTEMS

www.hogastills.com

www.hogacompany.com Courtesy of RICHLAND RUM The Spirit of Georgia

THE MACALLAN 40

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DISTILLERS JOURNAL

THE COOPER THAT MAKES THE CASK

WITHOUT THE MIGHTY OAK, WHISKY WOULD NOT HAVE THE FLAVOURS THAT BRINGS OUT THE BEST IN POETS. AND, KEEPING TRACK OF ALL THE OAK CASK RHYMES, SONNETS, AND ALLITERATIONS AT THE MACALLAN IS STUART MACPHERSON, MASTER OF THE WOOD. WORDS BY VELO MITROVICH, PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEVE MCCURRY

I

t’s hard not becoming a bit of

aging time of the spirit to the age of the

it can be bent into curved barrel staves,

romantic when surrounded by

oak used to make casks, it’s a journey

and can withstand impacts without

aging oak casks at a whisky

that easily started 100 to 200 years

breaking. It’s got a tight grain, so it will

distillery – especially if you’re not

ago when an acorn gave birth to a tiny

hold liquid without leaking. It’s got anti-

the person moving them. Perhaps

sapling.

fungal and anti-microbial properties

it’s the alcohol fumes seeping minutely

But then, why oak? Why not ash, or elm,

which means it can store food and drink

from the porous casks that bring this on,

or pine?

for long periods without spoiling. Finally,

but you start thinking that if you add the

Oak is naturally strong and flexible, so

the natural sugars and other flavours

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41

THE MACALLAN

locked up in the wood add all sorts of

whiskey or American bourbon taste the

more so is that whisky drinkers are now

complexities to wine, beer, and spirits.

same without newly charred American

understanding the importance of the

oak casks? France’s famous cognacs

cask that the raw whisky goes into for the

When the Romans encountered the

would remain fiery without the addition

majority of the drink’s flavour.

Gauls, they found a people who were

of state-run old growth oak forests, and

transporting beer, other liquids –

The Macallan’s unique whisky flavour

“Over the last 10 years people’s

pretty much everything – in oak casks

wouldn’t exist without being aged in oak

appreciation, people’s knowledge, has

bound together with metal hoops. The

casks that first housed sherry.

increased,” says MacPherson. “I think

Romans, quick to adapt, noticed that

The person who today understands

consumers are beginning to understand

wine transported in oak barrels took

better than anyone else the magic

– as well as the industry – about the

on more pleasant qualities than in their

that goes in The Macallan’s casks is

impact and influence casks have and the

traditional clay amphorae. Over time, it

the brand’s master of the wood, Stuart

necessity to have good quality casks –

was discovered that the longer the wine

MacPherson, who took on the role in

casks are the biggest single influence in

remained inside the barrels, the more

2012.

the development of any spirit.”

qualities the oak would impart to the

At that time in speaking about his new

What sets The Macallan apart from

wine.

role MacPherson said: “Taking on the role

the majority of whisky distillers is its

For spirits, however, until the advent of

of master of wood for The Macallan feels

insistence on using white oak sherry

toasted and charred barrels, they were

like a natural progression for me. Having

casks. According to whisky tasters, this

considered little more than holding tanks.

worked as a cooper since 1979, this feels

gives The Macallan 18-year Sherry Oak “a

Eventually fire entered into the mix and

like the ultimate job where I can bring

full bodied palate of mature oak, ginger

the oak barrel became part of the recipe,

together all my practical experience

and raisin flavours that is complimented

an important ingredient which forever

of wood and casks to assist in driving

by a light mahogany natural colour”.

altered for the better the spirits we drink

forward our rigorous wood policy for the

today.

coming years.”

The Macallan Sherry Oak range, matured

Rough and raw white spirits are

To say that MacPherson has found

in sherry-seasoned oak barrels, is a

transformed through the various

this work satisfying would be the

result of a closely managed “tree to

chemical and physical reactions between

understatement of the year. What has

cask” system, which starts by identifying

cask and spirits. Would Tennessee

helped this feeling manifested even

suitable tight-grained Quercus robur and

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DISTILLERS JOURNAL

THE MACALLAN

Quercus petraea, two distinct species of

“It’s these controls that we have; we are

relatively cheap commodity and used

European oak trees, cutting them, and

aware of where the trees are harvested

them to store their whiskies.

air-drying the trees in place for a short

from, we work with specific lumber yards

time to reduce some of the moisture of

and sawmills, and we have specific sets

The longer the whisky spent in these

the green wood and thus the weight.

of specifications for manufacturing. So, in

barrels – either through aging or time

terms of tree to cask systems, yes, that’s

spent in transport – the better the whisky

very much what we do.”

tasted. Scottish distillers connected the

Afterwards, The Macallan transports

dots and by the late 1800s, whisky aged

the sectioned oak to the coopers it has partnered with in Jerez, southern Spain –

WHY SHERRY

in sherry barrels slowly began to edge out sherry itself as the drink of choice for

just north of Gibraltar. There, it leaves the

the well-to-do of Europe.

wood to dry in the open for an additional

Up until the early 1800s, almost all

18 months to reduce even more moisture

Scottish whisky wasn’t aged. Although

and leach undesirable tannins and toxins,

oak barrels were being specifically used

However, this was a double-edged

without the use of kiln-drying. “You want

in France to age Cognac and wines, oak

sword. As whisky became more popular,

to give the oak a couple of winters to

barrels that found their way to Scotland

people drank less sherry so fewer sherry

allow the rain and wind to dry the wood

could have been used to hold anything

casks found their way to the UK. Once

naturally,” says MacPherson.

from kippers to gunpowder. This explains

US Prohibition ended and with it the rise

a lot why people preferred their whisky

of American bourbon – along with the

straight off the still.

law requiring bourbon to be aged in new

“In terms of our European oak, we will

oak casks – there became a glut of oak

generally source in northern Spain and southern France – we are quite specific

However, France’s wine blight in the mid-

bourbon casks which found their way into

with the regions where we source our

to-late 1800s wiped out Cognac supplies

the hands of Scottish whisky distillers.

European oak. For American oak, it is

throughout Europe. Once the middle to

generally sourced from the east coast

upper-class lost their spirit of choice, they

To add the final nail to sherry casks, in

of America in Ohio, Kentucky, and

searched for a substitute with Spanish

1981 Spanish sherry regulations banned

Pennsylvania going right along the

sherries becoming popular. As these

casks being exported and required

Appalachian Mountains,” he says.

now empty barrels started to stack up in

sherry to be bottle in Spain. Almost

the UK, Scottish distillers seized on this

overnight the supply of sherry casks

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43

THE MACALLAN Stuart MacPherson Macallan’s Master of Wood

Some in the industry claim that when a cask ‘breaths’, it brings in the flavours of the area. Others say that this is just romantic fiction.

MacPherson explains that due to the porous nature of the wooden cask, ethanol vapour will be expelled as could water vapour, both depending on the environment. So, if you have gases going out, in a more humid environment you can have water vapour penetrate the cask, which in essence is breathing. But as far as flavours – such as the sea or other environments where the distillery is based – being breathed back in as well?

“I would say no to be honest with you.

Maybe it’s a bit more romanticism in looking at these chemical reactions.”

dried up and cheap, plentiful American

aromas and flavours of The Macallan,

While in places like Kentucky which can

oak used-bourbon casks became the

along with 100 percent of the natural

have hot summers and cold summers or

cask of choice by the majority of Scottish

colour. “Because of this, we invest more

Taiwan where it is almost year around hot

distillers.

per cask than any other single malt brand

and humid, there isn’t a huge difference

in sourcing, crafting, seasoning, and

in Scotland between summer and winter.

caring for its casks.”

If initially you are laying down casks in

While long-time whisky fans would have

the winter, there is going to be a slower

instantly noticed the change in favour when these 10-year-old whiskies started

After the casks pass through the hands

maturation than if they were laid down in

hitting the market in the early 1990s,

of the Spanish coopers, sherry is poured

the summer.

there was a there was a whole new

inside, and they make their way to

generation discovering whisky for the first

bodegas.

“But with whisky, we’re talking about longer periods of time so in Scotland,

time.

AGING BELIEFS VS FACTS

temperature increases and reductions average out. You’ll also have slight

Whisky sales had dropped considerably in the US during the 1970-80s as many

One thing the world whisky/whiskey

differentials as well between the tops

people switched from whisky to vodka,

industry is debating is the issue of aging.

of warehouses and the bottoms of

bourbon and rums. During this 20-year

Most drinkers believe that the longer

warehouses, but then again, it’s not all

period, around 30 Scottish distilleries

the whisky ages, the better it is. Many

that much over a longer period of time,”

closed, with many of these ‘lost’

professional whisky tasters and critics

says MacPherson. “We carefully manage

distilleries dating back to the early 19th

would say that this isn’t always the case

our casks and work hand in hand with

century.

and indeed, some US distillers believe

the whisky mastery team to monitor the

that with proper cask management and

whisky through maturation.”

Many of the drinkers in the 1990s were

warehouse control, a young whisky/

new to whisky, attracted by the rise of

whiskey can be just as remarkable.

While other parts of the world have seen a more definite change in the

quality single malts. Having not been exposed to the flavours of whisky aged

“This happened with us as well, so it’s

temperature during the last 40 years, in

in sherry casks or blends, they obviously

not just an international thing,” says

Scotland any changes that have taken

didn’t notice the change as distilleries

MacPherson laughing. “We have to

place have been subtle. MacPherson

switched to bourbon casks.

consider a number of factors like the

thinks the impact on cast maturation is

cask quality, the character, and flavour

likely to be minimal at best.

If you were – and are – a Scottish distiller

development. And I think these are

who continues to age in sherry casks, it is

the key drivers in creating exceptional

While MacPherson doesn’t see it so

because you want a very specific flavour.

whiskies. When you talk about creating

much as a mistake made by other

The Macallan says that its oak casks

a younger whiskey that is just as

distilleries, he does believe distillers have

are crafted to its own specifications and

remarkable as an older, it does very

to really understand the impact a cask

account for up to 80 percent of the final

much depend on that initial cask quality.”

has on the finished spirit.

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THE MACALLAN “The vast majority of the industry

“The tutoring industry in Scotland has

“I can remember my first day at the

buys casks which are available in the

taken on a really a positive approach in

cooperate which was over 40 years

open market. It’s really just about

offering apprenticeships to the various

ago. It was quite a daunting experience,

understanding the potential impacts and

cooperages and distilleries in the last 10

certainly one that I’ll never forget.

influences that these casks are going to

years. This has been very helpful at The

have in bringing your spirit going forward.

Macallan.

“My advice to anybody starting in the industry is never give up on your

“That’s where distilleries have to be

“We have our own cooperages, and they

goals and aspirations. Learn as much

aware – I’m sure they are as to what kind

supply our own casks for fillings. But

as you possibly can. Don’t be afraid to

of quality casks are going to bring. But

like others, we’ve recently offered the

ask questions. Just enjoy that journey.

remember, if we’re talking about ex-

apprenticeship programme to guarantee

Because you never know where it’s really

bourbon barrels, then these barrels have

that we have the skills and competent

going to take you.

been initially constructed specifically

people require for future years. This is

for the bourbon industry. The same is

something that we’ll continue to do going

“For me, I began as a cooper 42-years

with the wine industry where we see a

forward.

ago, and it wasn’t a career I ever thought I would do – or wanted to do – to start off

lot of people buying casks or even from tequila distilleries. They have been built

“I would say is probably in the last 10

with. But it’s such a fascinating industry

specifically for that initial product, not

years, the numbers between tradesmen

and there are so many diversifications

whisky.”

and apprentices have probably risen by

to it. It’s very much an industry where I

50 percent. I think in 2010 we were just

honestly believe that you can be in it for

under 200, now we’re probably just under

your career and not know everything.

about 300 coopers and apprentices.”

Look, it’s a great industry to join.”

WORKING IN A COOPERAGE While many UK industries are suffering from a lack of workers, MacPherson

As mentioned in the beginning of this

says that hasn’t been the case with the

article, Stuart MacPherson has enjoyed

distilling industry in Scotland.

tremendously his time at The Macallan.

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PROCESS

TAKE YOUR OPERATIONS TO THE NEXT LEVEL

FROM GRAIN TO GLASS OR BULK TO BOTTLE, HAVING THE ABILITY TO MONITOR WHAT’S HAPPENING IN YOUR DISTILLERY NO MATTER WHERE YOU ARE IS INVALUABLE. AND EFFECTIVE DISTILLERY PROCESS MANAGEMENT SOFTWARE CAN DO THAT, BUT ALSO MUCH MORE - FROM INVENTORY TO REPORTING AND ACCOUNTING EXPLAIN FIVE X 5 SOLUTIONS.

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M

ost distillers don’t

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DISTILLERS JOURNAL

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setup and implementation assistance via

with your distillery’s demand – instead

a well-respected support or onboarding

of being contained by your operations,

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SUSTAINABILITY

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DISTILLERS JOURNAL

SUSTAINABILITY

THE SUSTAINABILITY CONUNDRUM YOUR CUSTOMERS SAY THEY WANT A GREENER, MORE ECO-FRIENDLY WORLD AND THEY WANT YOUR SPIRITS TO REFLECT THIS. BUT YOU HAVE TO WONDER: ARE THEY WILLING TO MEET YOUR COSTS FOR THIS? WILL GOING GREEN MAKE A DIFFERENCE IN YOUR BOTTOM LINE – OR IS THIS A CASE WHERE THE PROFIT MARGIN NEEDS TO TAKE A BACKSEAT TO YOUR OWN MORAL COMPASS? VELO MITROVICH REPORTS.

I

t is harder to think of any place in

Review entitled ‘Leadership in the age of

the UK where the environment

transparency’, the author wrote: “The key

seems so fresh and clean than the

to becoming a contemporary corporate

Scottish Isles, thus it’s no wonder

leader is to take on responsibility for

that Islay’s nine distilleries promote

externalities – what economists call the

this idea with their whisky. But, like most

impacts you have on the world – like

of the other 134 whisky distilleries in

pollution – for which you are not called to

Scotland, the island’s distilleries rely

account.”

on fuel oil to fire their boilers, in this

There is currently no law taking you

case brought in by diesel-powered

into account if your operation is not

ferries. According to The Guardian,

sustainable and actually defining what is

Islay’s distilleries burn 15 million litres of

and isn’t sustainable is a challenge. It all

fuel each, giving this area perhaps the

seems an impossible task and, if judging

highest per capita CO emissions of any

by the amount of ‘greenwash’ that goes

community in Scotland.

on in advertisements and corporate

Throw into this mix the obvious

releases, it seems like a hopeless cause

wastewater, packaging, and shipping

to make a real difference.

issues that all distilleries face, along with the ubiquitous labour, equity, and supply-

But, on-the-other-hand, if you come

chain challenges. From the biggest to the

out and say that you can see no merit in

smallest producer, we have some real

your distillery becoming sustainable, it

challenges to overcome if we want to

would be like saying you enjoy a grilled

become sustainable just within the four

whale steak every Saturday night. Even if

walls of our distilleries, let alone the big

it’s true, there is no way you would ever

world beyond our front door.

admit to this.

In a 2010 essay in the Harvard Business

It truly is a conundrum.

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SUSTAINABILITY

THE ISSUE

However, California chemical engineer

out with just one recycling bin, with the

Jan Dell, was – and is – suspicious of

councils do the sorting; all citizens had to

While the Earth’s climate has always

all claims regarding the practicality of

do would be to put everything recyclable

been in a state of flux, the speed in

recycling plastic due to its nature to

into it. What could be easier, yet this is

which change is happening is alarming

degrade every time it is processed into

what people are making a New Year’s

and most scientists and researchers

another plastic product – unlike glass or

resolution to do better.

see humans as the root cause of the

metals. In addition, with packages made

problem.

from multilayer plastics – such as most

It’s hard enough to convince people to

The recently passed New Year’s

snack packages – while in theory the

do new things, establish new patterns,

weekend was the warmest on record in

item could be recycled, it wouldn’t be

and buy environmentally and sustainable

the UK, with even Cambridge boaters

cost affected to do so. She founded a

products. Convince them to do all that

punting in short sleeves. Opening up the

group called Last Beach Clean-up and

and pay more for the privilege? No

window on 1 January, cheery trees were

took TerraCycle to court on charges of

thanks, it won’t happen.

blossoming, optimistic spiders were

unlawful and deceptive recycling claims.

For example, electric vehicle sales in

building webs, and the birds’ morning chorus sounded more like what you hear

Indeed, in a recently released

the US are growing, but just under 2

in May as opposed to January.

documentary “The Recycling Myth” it

percent of the vehicles sold in 2019 were

shows images of plastic packaging,

electric, and they were overwhelmingly

While on the surface this all seems great

collected by volunteers through

sold in California. Surveys of pickup truck

– no need to leave the UK for a winter

Terracycle’s UK programme, directed to

owners analysed by NPR found that

break – it is like seeing a prehistoric

a waste handler in Bulgaria, from where

just 7 percent would pay significantly

T-Rex suddenly crash through your

it was allegedly going to be sent on to

more money for a truck just for the

garden fence. It might be interesting for

a cement kiln to be burned. [For more

environment’s sake.

the moment, but you know deep down

information on this, go to vox.com].

WHAT CUSTOMERS WANT

inside nothing good is going to come out of this.

According to Dell, shareholders

We put our trust in the national and local

and consumers must demand that

In adult TV cartoons such as ‘The

governments to think green. But those

companies report on the credibility

Simpsons’ and ‘Family Guy’, consumer

day-to-day parts of the sustainability

of their recycling claims – “truth and

survey forums are made fun of, with

movement – which we believe we have

transparency” – and adopt real solutions

the end result always being the same:

some control over such as recycling –

to stop the global plastic waste and

Customers themselves have no idea

get lost in a shell game with no winner.

pollution crisis.

what they want.

According to the BBC, only 16 percent

We think our old computers and phones

want organic, free-range chicken, or

of plastic waste is recycled in the UK to

are being sent to developing world

at least they do until they reach the

make new plastics, while 40 percent is

countries to be used in their schools.

supermarket till.

sent to landfill, 25 percent to incineration

But, according to Al Jazeera, the vast

Going by its own market research,

and 19 percent is dumped – meaning it

majority ends up in west African burning

Monterey Bay Seafood Watch decided

can end up anywhere such as the ocean.

pits, picked over by young children who

that what consumers wanted was an app

With plastic waste that is supposedly

breath in toxic fumes while scrounging

for their smart phones to use when at the

being recycled, if it is being sent out of

for valuable metals.

supermarket. Before buying any seafood

For an example, consumers say they

the UK for this process, there is only a lottery-chance this is actually happening.

they could check with the app to see if How can this be? We think folks in the UK

they are making a sustainable choice.

care about the environment, but do they?

Private company TerraCycle saw an

A recent poll by British Gas found that

With one screaming toddler in the

opportunity here in 2001, calling itself a

four in 10 say their New Year’s resolutions

shopping trolley and a five-year-old

“social enterprise eliminating the idea of

involve being greener.

running amuck in the candy isle, can you

waste,” recycling all the things that can’t –

picture a consumer calmly taking their

or shouldn’t go – into your curb-side bin.

While this sounds commendable, the top

phone out and seeing what the status

How it works is the company, now in 20

green resolution is to “recycle better”. A

is on cod caught in the Barents Sea? Fat

countries including the UK, will sell you a

few years back most councils provided

chance of this ever happening.

cardboard box for your kitchen for around

around two to three recycling containers

So, what do consumers expect when it

£120. Once you fill the box, measuring 25

to separate glass from plastic, from

comes to sustainability?

x 25 x 46 cm (11 x 11 x 18 in) with things

cardboard and so on.

such as chips and snacks in multilayer

The Healthy & Sustainable Living Global

plastic packs, you send it back to them

However, the councils discovered people

Consumer Insights conducted its latest

and they claim to recycle the items.

couldn’t be bothered with this and came

poll during the summer of 2021, with a

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DISTILLERS JOURNAL

SUSTAINABILITY total of more than 30,000 people in 31 markets surveyed about their attitudes, opinions, and behaviours linked to more sustainable and healthier lifestyles.

The study shows that the public cares more than ever about a range of environmental issues – water pollution, natural resource depletion, climate change, air pollution, and loss of biodiversity. Individuals around the world also feel personally affected by climate change. In addition, people express a strong desire to make changes to the way they live, especially those under age 30, yet there remains a large aspirationaction gap when it comes to sustainable living.

The research indicates that brands can play an important role inspiring action and people are calling for systemic change from a host of stakeholders including governments and companies to make healthy and sustainable living easy. Some of the survey’s key findings include the following: u Globally, 63 percent of people say that climate change is a “very serious” issue while the depletion of natural resources (64%) and water pollution (65%) are the top two “very serious” issues across 17 tracking markets surveyed. u People continue to say that they would like to make significant changes to become healthier and more sustainable, but the gap between aspirations and action persists. Forty-seven percent of people say that they want to change their lifestyle “a great deal” to be more environmentally friendly, but only 23 percent of them say they have made major changes to be more environmentally friendly in the past year. Sixty percent of people say the same about being healthier, with only 28 percent of them saying that they have made major changes. u People want to change their behaviours but many feel that governments and companies are not doing their part to make it happen. Thirtyfour percent of people claim a lack of support from business as a key barrier and 46 percent of people say that a lack of affordability is also a barrier. u People under the age of 30 are more open to making major changes ‒ 55

distillersjournal.info

Large-scale producers Absolut, Bacardi and Diageo with more funds for research and testing, have all launched innovative plans for packaging in the near future. Bacardi recently announced its plans

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51

SUSTAINABILITY percent of those under 30 say they want

and ‘organic’ can have zero meaning.

to change “a great deal” compared to

Even something like olive oil being

H&M introduced a recycling scheme

44 percent of those over 30 ‒ yet their

described at ‘Italian’ or ‘extra-virgin’

where you can take back your old textiles

behaviour often does not reflect their

means nothing.

in exchange for a coupon - to buy more

heightened aspirations (only 28% of

In the UK, though, we can’t hold our

clothes. Not only would it take H&M up to

those under 30 say they have made

heads much higher. Here terms on

12 years to use just 1,000 tons of clothing

major changes in the past year). This gap

a package such as ‘animal-friendly’,

waste; the majority of unwanted clothes

between desires and actual behaviour –

‘happy’, ‘healthy’, ‘green’, eco-friendly’,

are sent to developing countries where

the aspiration-action gap – is larger for

‘free-range’, ‘recyclable’, ‘plant-based’,

they’re unable to be processed.

younger people than for those aged 30

and ‘extract-free’, mean only something

However, while enforcement agencies

and up.

to the eyes of the beholder.

seeing willing to overlock dubious claims such as “organic salt”, Distillers Journal

Consumers want changes, but they don’t want to make them themselves.

SPIRIT ISSUES

Last March Yale School for the

believes that it won’t be the same with

Environment – a professional college part

sustainability claims. Companies will be

of Yale University – did a small study of

named, shamed, and penalised for lying.

46 food companies. The study showed The process of making alcohol, just like

that in regard to sustainability, there is

One problem that Distillers see our

other part of our food system, is one that

“a lot of effort going into appearing to

industry having is that many of the

has environmental, social, and economic

be a good actor, but these efforts were

products, such as glass bottles, do not

implications. While it varies from spirit to

rarely externally verified”. In other words,

originate with us, we buy them from a

spirit, production methods, distillation

greenwash.

vendor.

shipping, energy consumption and

According to UK blog ‘A Considered

If Bob’s Bottles assures us that the

labour standards all influence the

Life’, greenwashing is a deceptive

bottles we buy from him are made with

footprint of your bottle of liquor. While

marketing tactic used by brands to

100 percent post production recycled

“drink responsibly” is a common phrase,

mislead or deceive its customers on how

glass, does our responsibility to ensure

you rarely if ever are told to “drink eco-

its business, products, and/or services

the truthfulness of this statement end

responsibly,” says Katherine Sacks of the

affect the environment. Greenwashing is

with that?

blog Foodprint.

used to appeal to consumers’ who care

Bob buys his bottles from a series of

about the environment, by trying to make

third-party vendors in Italy. Does he have

But, she says, there is certainly a reason

themselves or their goods sound more

to provide proof to us that these vendors

to sound the call for eco-responsible

eco-friendly or environmentally-safe

have been vetted as to their green

alcohol. Research done by the Beverage

than they actually are so that consumers

standards before we can declare our

Industry Environmental Roundtable

believe they are ethical and sustainable.

bottles sustainable? If Bob is shading the

techniques, raw ingredients, packaging,

truth, can our distillery be penalised?

(BIER) on the carbon footprint of spirits found that, on average, a 750-milliliter

Greenwashing involves unsubstantiated

“There is no legal obligation under

bottle of liquor produces 6.5 pounds of

claims and the use of misleading green

consumer protection law to carry out a

carbon dioxide, the majority of which

images or terms to suggest a product is

full lifecycle assessment of a product.

comes from the distillation process and

all-natural, eco-friendly, and safe. They

However, a business should consider the

glass packaging.

run advertisements and campaigns to

life cycle of a product before making a

show how their company is committed

claim,” the CMA tells Distillers. “Whether a

Distilleries are highly water-intensive – 12

to caring for the environment or appear

claim is misleading, in the context of the

times as much wastewater is produced

to be making changes to their practices

life cycle of the product, will depend on

as the amount of alcohol produced —

which will protect the planet. These

the type of claim being made and what

which can include an estimated eight

claims are false and are used to appeal

the customer is likely to take away from

to 15 litres of waste materials per litre of

to consumers’ beliefs and emotions in

it.”

alcohol. “In a world rife with escalating

order to be perceived as good so that

environmental concerns, allocating

they maintain or increase their sales.

agricultural resources to $15 craft

For example, McDonald’s switched

cocktails is hard to justify from any ethical

to paper straws, but the straws can’t

While water and by-product waste are

perspective,” writes mixologist Bobby

be recycled due to the UK’s recycling

the top contributors when it comes to

Heugel in an article for Punch, imploring

infrastructure. But even if they could

greenhouse gas emissions in liquor

his industry to consider sustainability.

be recycled, the cups they serve their

production, but most would agree that

drinks in are plastic-lined. So, switching

one of the first things you can do –which

If any of you have been to a US

to paper straws without changing the

will get noticed immediately by your

supermarket, you will know that in the

cups themselves didn’t really solve the

customers – is making your packaging

States such terms as ‘natural’, ‘lite’, ‘green’

problem of single-use plastic.

more sustainable. But this isn’t as straight

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PACKAGING MATERIAL

DISTILLERS JOURNAL

SUSTAINABILITY

CMA GUIDANCE

forward as you might imagine.

that, 24 percent, when calculating for the

International plant-based meat producer

recyclable PET plastic bottle.

Heura Foods – headquartered in Spain– decided early on that plastics were

Lessons learned from both Heura

bad and cardboard was good when it

and Koskenkorva is that in trying to be

The Competition and Markets Author-

came to the packaging of their products.

sustainable, you need to constantly

ity (CMA) is the competition regulator

However, then they took a closer look at

evaluate your practices, to be flexible,

in UK, responsible for strengthening

the two materials.

and most importantly, to educate your

business competition and prevent-

Heura Foods’ main goal in packaging is to

customers as to why you are making

ing and reducing anti-competitive

protect and keep their product safe in a

certain choices.

activities. The CMA began operating

refrigerated format which entails being in

fully on 1 April 2014, when it assumed

a container which allowed for a protective

Large-scale producers Absolut, Bacardi

many of the functions of the previous-

atmosphere and a cool refrigeration

and Diageo with more funds for research

ly existing Competition Commission

temperature. If its products aren’t

and testing, have all launched innovative

and Office of Fair Trading, which were

reaching customers in a safe, pathogen-

plans for packaging in the near future.

abolished.

free manner, then it didn’t matter how

Bacardi recently announced its plans

In regard to investigating sustainability

eco-friendly its packaging was.

for a biodegradable bottle, planned for release in 2023, while Absolut has already

claims by manufacturers, the CMA tells Distillers that it is still at a rela-

In taking a ‘big picture’ view, Heura

launched a trial of recycled paper-plastic

tively early stage of investigation into

discovered that R-PET plastic was more

hybrid bottles for its vodka in the UK and

sustainability claims and haven’t yet

sustainable to produce and easier to

Sweden. And Diageo is primed to start

looked into specific sectors.

recycle that its cardboard + double film

using 100 percent plastic-free bottles,

“We can’t comment specifically on

packaging.

made from sustainably sourced wood pulp, starting with Johnnie Walker in early

the distilling industry but, in general, misleading green claims can take the

“We have learned a lot about materials,

2021, according to blogger Katherine

form of:

recycling lines and the difference

Sacks.

u Vague claims about being ‘eco’ or

between newly produced plastic,”

‘sustainable’ which aren’t backed up

says Heura. “The data is clear, when

by the evidence.

comparing the 2.0 packaging to the

u Claims which focus on one compo-

new R-PET packaging, it generates 47

Douglas Taylor, Bruichladdich’s chief

nent of a product, without disclosing

percent less emissions, uses 15 percent

executive, told The Guardian: “We have

the truth about the rest of the product.

less water and uses 50 percent less fossil

this view of ‘think big, start small, but

For example, saying “made with

resources.”

start today’. That’s one of the things you

recyclable materials”, but hiding the

MOVING FORWARD

need in the industry; to take a brave

fact that this only applies to a small

With its customers, it was far from being

and courageous step to represent what

percentage of the content.

a popular decision. Going from plastic,

change could look like. What you have to

u Making unfair comparisons – for

to cardboard, to back to plastic, seemed

do is start with what you can control.”

example, suggesting that a new

like the company was backtracking on all

And, as Jan Dell says, practicing truth and

product or new version of a product is

its values in producing a vegan, meat-

transparency in dealing with sustainability

somehow better for the environment,

free product.

issues.

without taking into account the big

“Today we are committed to a circular

At this point if you are still reading this

picture. This could include stating that

plastic economy, using R-PET recycled

and hoping for answers, I don’t have

a new product uses less energy to

plastic and promoting its recycling. We

them, but I suspect some of you readers

manufacture, while failing to mention

know it is not the perfect solution, but it is

do.

that transport costs make the new

the best solution we have found so far.”

product the same or worse in terms of

American storyteller Garrison Keillor says:

energy usage.

A 2019 life cycle assessment of the

“Writers can revel in despair, but other

u A lack of consistency in the use of

Finnish brand Koskenkorva Vodka,

people are intent on solving problems

certain terms when making environ-

comparing the greenhouse gas

and that’s where you should put your

mental claims, with ‘compostable’,

emissions of vodka packaged in glass

money.” I’m putting my money in you.

‘biodegradable’ and ‘recyclable’ being

and recyclable PET plastic bottles,

identified as particularly problematic.”

found the carbon footprint of the glass

I hope this is just the beginning of this

vodka bottles to be roughly 27 percent

discussion on sustainability. If you think

more than the PET bottles. Additionally,

others can benefit from what you’re

when using the glass bottle, packaging

doing, please contact me and I will pass

accounts for 43 percent of the product’s

it on in podcasts and further articles.

entire carbon footprint, and nearly half

Email me at velo@rebymedia.com.

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SUSTAINABILITY

A NEW WAVE OF DISTILLERS

THE SCOTTISH WHISKY INDUSTRY IS UNDERGOING A HUGE CULTURAL SHIFT. NO LONGER A DRINK TO ONLY BE SIPPED NEAT BY OLDER MEN, TODAY’S WHISKY DISTILLERS ARE CREATING A DRINK FOR A YOUNGER AUDIENCE AND FEMALE. PART OF THIS SHIFT IS ALSO A MOVE TOWARDS A SUSTAINABLE AND GREEN INDUSTRY. GARETH ROBERTS, AN ARCHITECT DEVELOPER SPECIALISING IN DISTILLERIES FOR ORGANIC ARCHITECTS, REPORTS FOR DISTILLERS JOURNAL

O

ver the past ten years a

picturesque. A traditional distillery,

new wave of distillers has

perhaps located in the wooded rolling

come into the industry,

hills of Speyside or on a wild coastal

creating products which

location, is a collection of large farm-

are imaginative and more

style buildings, constructed from

conscious of the environment, proud of

traditional materials and often topped

their location and keen to attract visitors.

with the Chinese-style pagoda which

These new entrants are also keen to

has come to signify Scotch Whisky

show the world how they do it.

production.

The new wave are building bespoke buildings which represent their brand

They are a complex building type to

from day one. With a fresh start they have

design. Each building within a distillery

no need to shoe-horn a visitor experience

complex needs to give the correct

into existing buildings which were built

environmental conditions for its part of

decades ago as industrial units.

the process, which is in turn dusty, then humid, then dry and hot, then cold and

All new distillers are concerned about

damp. At every stage there is some risk

the environment. Zero carbon is a brand

for the building designers to mitigate

objective from day one in an industry

whether explosive risks from dust and

which uses so much energy. Established

spirit or venting CO2 and ethanol.

distillers may have tradition on their side, but they have substantial sunk costs in

All of these requirements must be proven

equipment, which is entirely designed

to meet stringent building regulations

around fossil fuels, so the new wave have

and operational safety rules. None of

an edge in a market where environmental

these constraints must stand in the way

matters are now one of the key sales

of visitors having a fun and informative

drivers.

tour.

Distillery buildings are more than efficient

Most whisky brands have the character

production buildings, they project a

of their location in their DNA. This

character which matches the character of

needn’t mean a traditional character,

their product.

although if a brand demands heritage then refurbishing existing buildings can

Their appearance can be traditional

provide that time-honoured feeling

or contemporary, but it is always best

through the use of natural materials and

when typical local building styles are

local building features.

respected, the business is then shown to

At Lindores Abbey Distillery farm

be rooted in its place. The buildings have

buildings were refurbished which lay

to be attractive as they are the brand

within the ancient abbey complex.

home. Distilleries are one of the few

They were built from stone which had

remaining beautiful building types.

historically been reused from the abbey when it was sacked, so they were directly

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Fortunately, there are lots of attractive

linked with the famous history of the site.

traditional buildings to hark back to. The

The old stone buildings lent an instant

legacy buildings which house traditional

historic character to the new whisky

distilleries are often tremendously

brand.

DISTILLERS JOURNAL

SUSTAINABILITY These pristine places just demonstrate how the spirit making process has no impact on the local environment.

Organic Architects have designed two biomass-fired distilleries at Ardnmurchan and NcN’ean. Both are close to substantial mature forests which would have otherwise been cut down and exported by road. Although biomass is not a perfectly green solution, these two distilleries illustrate why any lowcarbon process is totally reliant upon the resources of their local site. The high capital cost of a biomass boiler will probably put most new entrants off This isn’t to say that the building is

however. Grants and state aid for biomass

entirely traditional, and it is certainly not

have been gradually removed over the

pastiche, there is a careful blending of

last few years.

the original and the new: Windows at the stills visually link the new production area with the abbey ruins. They are contemporary shopfront glazing, contrasting beautifully with the old stone walls. Three stills (two spirit stills – an idea of Dr Jim Swan to maximise copper contact) sit beneath three gables, yet those three gables were a feature of the original building, we retained the original

All new distillers are concerned about the environment,” Gareth Roberts

we deal with to go electric. Electricity is currently more costly than natural gas, but cost parity is underway, gradually removing the cost advantage that gas currently has – cost parity looms within 10 to 15 years.

An electric steam boiler can take in any form of renewable power, off site or

roof form and raised it to give height for the pot stills.

Now we are encouraging all distillers

in its effects upon its nearby community.

generated on site, or even mixed. Many

The main distillery building is not yet

distilleries are located in very energy

A refurbished old building feels instantly

complete, yet the new café and gift

rich environments with, for example, the

traditional. It does the work in support

shop is already trading and making a

possibility of micro tidal coming online

of the brand. At the McAllister Distillery

difference across the road. The business

in the medium term. Starting now with

in Ahascragh, County Galway, we are

is employing local people in addition

electric steam adds a few pence to

converting a prominent old flour mill

to the investment in local construction.

the production cost of a bottle yet the

into a new whiskey distillery. The entire

Upon completion the business will be

branding benefit of using green power is

village is built focused on this beautiful

a significant local employer and it will

significant.

old factory building which was surely the

attract many whisky tourists who would

Electric distilling may change the way

reason for the growth of the village in the

not otherwise have come to the area. A

that the distilling process is organised.

first place.

distillery is a very powerful draw in terms

Lower cost nighttime power will

The old flour mill, which is being rebuilt

of direct and spin-off jobs.

encourage the storing of heat or power for processes which may need to take

for McAllister Distillery, had failed to find a developer for decades: Housing

REAL WORLD IMPACTS

place during the day. The entire process design is being evolved around this

conversions have failed; plans for a hostel didn’t get funding. And yet a distiller, who

In recent decades almost all distillers

different heat source. As architects we

will benefit from the established historic

have relied on fossil fuels to provide

are always anticipating changes to the

character, saw the advantage in investing

process heat. The switch away from fossil

process and new working methods which

in a refurbishment. And let’s face it, the

fuels to clean distilling is underway, and

the building must facilitate.

local authority would never approve

this will inevitably become an important

a new building of this scale as they

criteria when selecting drinks, as it will be

welcomed the characterful old building

with any purchase.

being saved.

If you look closely into whisky brands that

Distilling was traditionally a way of storing

The McAllister Distillery also

trade on their location, and we are lucky

and adding value to a grain harvest. This

demonstrates another aspect of ESG

that there are so many unspoilt places

is why many long-established distilleries

(Environmental, Social and Governance)

where spirits are made and lain-down.

are extended groups of farm buildings.

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A FARM PROCESS

DISTILLERS JOURNAL

SUSTAINABILITY maltsters can steep and dry unusual

between an Islay malt and a light

The new wave distilleries are smaller,

grain varieties which can give distillers

Speyside. Few products have more local

and they are doing things in new ways,

a point of difference in their spirits. The

difference. Terroir will surely become

so there is communication with barley

future will include a great variety of spirit

prominent as single malts continue to eat

growers who are using micro maltings

characters.

into the market for blends.

supply micro maltsters with their own

These non-standard grains are

Many existing farm buildings are ideal

grains in small batches, restoring the

extremely climate-specific, so terroir is

for conversion to distilling uses. With

link between grower and end-users

certainly built into the product from its

our clear understanding of the distilling

which had been lost through the

base ingredients. And in our view the

process, we can plan the process

industrialization of malting. [See ‘Giving

location of maturation is also critical in

equipment to minimize the construction

your spirits the flavour of terroir’ in this

the character of the spirit. Cold, slow

changes needed, while maintaining the

issue.]

maturation in Speyside gives a noticeable

same output. It may be that a smaller tun

difference to a warm maritime climate.

fits into a certain building more easily, or

Farmers can now get feedback from their

As architects we design dunnage, racked

washbacks can go outside.

end-users and change what they grow,

and palletised stores. We have designed

and how they grow it. Travel to Islay and

insulated and temperature-controlled

Usually a larger space is needed for stills,

you’ll see the blue Bruichladdich signs

warehouses, although such things are

sometimes roofs must be lifted. Existing

on farm gates. Local farmers are now

not possible in Scotland as the SWA

sumps can take effluent, bunds are easily

growing for local distillers.

frowns upon it.

constructed. Massive stone buildings

Organic production starts in the soil,

The story that terroir plays no part

easily secured, and often old farm

although we talk with farmers who are

in whisky must surely have been

buildings are underused, so a distillery is

beyond organic, using biodynamic

propagated by large blenders – how

a much more intense and efficient use of

growing methods which is a really

can a product with up to one hundred

existing space.

exciting point of difference for the distiller

components possibly claim and local

who can handle small batches. Micro

character? And yet taste the difference

rather than industrial maltings. Farms

make great dunnage stores, they are

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distillersjournal.info

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SPRING 2022

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57

MANUFACTUR ER

IPMENT EQU RY LE

C MMER IAL DIS O C TIL OF

Official distributor for DES Commercial Distilling Equiment

Number: 07595760351 Website: www.desstilluk.co.uk Email: sales@desstilluk.co.uk

SUSTAINABILITY

GREEN CREDENTIALS ON THE LABEL WE CHALLENGE LABEL DESIGNERS TO GIVE OUR BOTTLES AN EDGE ON THE SHELF; SOMETHING THAT WILL MAKE THEM STAND OUT THANKS TO A BOLD DESIGN AND MATERIALS USED. BUT LABELS, TOO, SHOULD BE AN INTEGRAL PART OF YOUR SUSTAINABLE PACKAGING DESIGNS. CAN YOU MEET BOTH DEMANDS, SSPECIALLY WHEN IT COMES TO PREMIUM SPIRITS? SUSAN ELLISON, JOINT MD AT OPM, REPORTS

P

remiumisation has become

compromising on taste.”

a key trend governing all

Where sustainability is concerned,

aspects of the beverage

brands are responding with a premium

market, from sustainability

approach to eco-friendly labelling. For

to standing out in the

example, Avallen has introduced waste‐

growing market for luxury drinks.

apple‐pulp labels printed with natural

Consumer spending on premium or

inks for its Calvados, and Beefeater

“super-premium” alcoholic drinks is

Gin uses paper labels. For companies

expected to grow by 13 percent to 2024,

wanting to follow suit, a print labelling

with more than 40 percent of consumers

expert can advise on the substrates that

treating themselves to the occasional

are important when designing for the

luxury tipple and 54 percent of those

circular economy and how they can be

aged 18 to 34 preferring premium drinks.

used for maximum recyclability and print capability.

Glencairn Crystal predicted continuous growth for luxury spirits in 2021, following

Today’s environmentally conscious

an increase in 2020 when customers

consumer wants products in sustainable

are thought to have exchanged their

packaging with instructions for recycling

bar budget for high-end spirits during

and information regarding provenance.

lockdown. Meanwhile it’s estimated the

This requires careful consideration of

global premium spirits market will grow

budget, lead times and material for

by 10.10 percent annually between 2021

labelling. The solution is to choose a

and 2028 due to the growing appetite

printer whose focus is on working lean

for cocktails emerging in developing

with streamlined processes, using

markets such as China and India; and

green materials, with energy and waste

this, coupled with innovative market

management certificates.

campaigns, is driving demand for luxury.

OPM uses suppliers who source label

The fact that spirit sales have continued

materials from PEFC and FSC-certified

to rise despite the pandemic’s

forests to offer eco-friendly facestocks

devastating effect on the hospitality

and films that reduce waste and

industry places even more pressure on

pollution. These include Estate Label

brands to stand out on the supermarket

No.14 facestock made from 100 percent

shelf.

post-consumer-waste paper, and Biobased PE film, made entirely from sugar

However, the thirst for high-end drinks

cane ethanol cultivated in Brazil.

must not come at the expense of the environment or ethics. Holly Inglis,

POWER OF DESIGN

beverages analyst at GlobalData,

distillersjournal.info

revealed that in their Q2-21 survey,

Labelling premiumisation can make

34 percent of global consumers

a great statement and help potential

cited sustainably/ethically sourced

customers decide whether the product

ingredients as appealing, saying: “Health

is right for them through careful use

consciousness and sustainability,

of design features such as colour and

sprinkled with a pinch of indulgence, are

typography. A clear brand image that

set to drive many innovations this year,

can be identified from several feet away

as consumers look for products that

can entice the browsing shopper to look

align with their personal values without

closer.

SPRING 2022

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59

SUSTAINABILITY

For high-end spirits, embellishments

look and feel of the product, it is vital

OPM’s Multi dex multi-ply product can

such as embossing, debossing and foil

that information on the label is clear and

create an eye-catching, decorative, and

stamps are an immediate indicator of

simple, enabling brewers and distillers to

highly functional label, with an index of

traditional luxury, indicating a quality,

quickly tell the brand story and connect

content pages in a range of shapes, sizes

vintage product worth spending extra

with the customer so that they buy. This

and colours which can be peeled back

money on.

is where labelling premiumisation can

and resealed. Dry peel vouchers and

As well as looking good, the tactile finish

really come into its own.

coupons can be enclosed between the layers and QR codes can be included

feels good too, encouraging a customer to keep hold of a product and learn more.

A seemingly simple label change can

for stock scanning as well as customer

A variety of papers, films and specialised

produce powerful results, as illustrated

engagement.

materials can have this effect on both

when Bosscal Mezcal joined the Wolf

bottles and cans, and include clear-on-

Spirit Distillery brand portfolio. This

Labelling premiumisation means

clear films, metallised papers and films,

Mexican beverage, made from hand-

reflecting superiority in terms of

glossy bright white materials, laminated

selected, mountain-grown agave and

provenance, ingredients, green

foils, and traditional uncoated papers,

cooked by the distiller in a volcanic rock-

credentials, and additional smart

in a vast range of colours and textures.

lined oven, was selling only 200 cases a

services, all displayed on an eye-

Some of the most innovative formats

year. Within just one month of launching

catching label featuring an on-trend

include screen printing on glass bottles

the product with an alternative glass

design.

– an effective way of creating a raised

colour and redesigned label featuring a

appearance on the substrate.

new story-led illustration and the phrase

This makes it a complex and integral part

‘Mountain to Market’ the brand sold 2,500

of the product development process

To achieve the level of shelf shout

cases.

which should never be an afterthought.

required to stand out amongst crowds

Premiumisation through smart tactics can

Bringing your printer on board at the

of competitors it is critical to work with a

also encourage brand loyalty by ensuring

concept stage is absolutely vital because

trusted printer who can advise on how to

consumers remain engaged after the

they can encapsulate your brand designs

bring effective design ideas to life.

purchase. Peelable labels can include

into the ideal label solution.

further information about provenance

In such a competitive and mindful

and sustainability and interactive labels

marketplace where consumers do judge

using QR codes can lead to additional

a book by its cover, your print partnership

In terms of ethics and provenance, once

information online, for example cocktail

can be the deciding factor on sales

the consumer has been drawn in by the

recipes.

success or failure.

TELLING THE STORY

60

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SPRING 2022

DISTILLERS JOURNAL

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SCIENCE

GREAT ENGLISH BRANDY STARTS IN THE CASK

WHILE ENGLISH BRANDY IS NOTHING NEW, THE POTENTIAL PRODUCTION SIZE IS, TAKING IT WELL BEYOND THE SCOPE OF A NICHE PRODUCT. IN THIS ARTICLE, WE WILL LOOK AT NEW RESEARCH FROM SPAIN IN GETTING THE MOST FROM YOUR BRANDY CASKS.

distillersjournal.info

F

or those of you who attended

spirits are often used for this purpose.

the recent Distillers Congress

When wooden barrels are used for the

in London, you would have

first time, they release a large number

heard Dr John Walters

of compounds into the liquid contained

of English Spirit Distillery

in them. Such amount decreases over

mention English brandy as a spirit with a

time, but casks life cycle has remained

great potential.

unexplored until now.

Why is this? Warmer temperatures

The present work had the aim to study

have led to an increase in production of

the brandies obtained from the same

wine grapes in the English countryside.

wine spirit after two years ageing in

However, production has not necessarily

three differently oak casks: namely new,

been followed by consumption leading

seven years of use (four years containing

to a surplus of white wines. Dr Walters

Oloroso wine and three years containing

believe that this surplus would be idea

wine spirits) and 32 years of use (eight

for creating an expanded English brandy

years containing Oloroso wine and 24

market.

years containing wine spirits).

In the recent article ‘Comparative

Amazingly, according to the results from

Evaluation of Brandy de Jerez Aged in

their experiments, even after 32 years of

American Oak Barrels with Different

use, the wood barrels still contribute to

Times of Use’, published in the research

modify the organoleptic characteristics of

publication Foods 2001, Manuel J.

brandy. Moreover, the brandies aged in

Valcárcel-Muñoz, María Guerrero-

used barrels were judged more balanced

Chanivet, M. Valme García-Moreno,

than those aged in new barrels.

M. Carmen Rodríguez-Dodero, and Dominico A. Guillén-Sánchez at the

Brandy de Jerez is a spirit produced

University of Cadiz in Spain, looked

in the southern Spanish area known

into how casks of various ages affected

as Marco de Jerez, which includes

brandy.

the cities of Jerez de la Frontera, El Puerto de Santa María and Sanlúcar de

Brandy de Jerez is a European

Barrameda. It is a grape-derived spirit

Geographical Indication for grape-

with a minimum alcoholic strength of 36%

derived spirits aged in oak casks that

ABV (normally between 36–45% ABV.),

have previously contained any kind of

obtained from wine spirits and distillates

sherry wine – sherry casks.

aged in under 1000 litre oak barrels which have been previously seasoned

Wood compounds have a substantial

with sherry wine. The production process

influence in the quality of the brandies

follows a traditional dynamic system

that are aged in the barrels. In the cellar,

employed in the sherry area known as

the barrels that have been used for many

Criaderas and Solera.

years to keep sherry wine or other wine

SPRING 2022

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63

SCIENCE Brandy de Jerez exhibits a number of

transferred from the wood into the liquid

specific organoleptic characteristics that

are responsible for the organoleptic

make it different from other spirits and

profile of the resulting brandy.

such characteristics are conferred to brandy by the casks where it is aged. This

Wood is mostly composed of

is because the barrels used to produce

polysaccharides (cellulose and

Brandy de Jerez must have contained

hemicellulose) and lignin. This represents

for a certain length of time some type

around 90 percent of the total wood

of sherry wine, ie, Fino, Amontillado,

matter. The remaining 10 percent is

Oloroso, or Pedro Ximénez.

composed of extractive compounds such as phenolic compounds (polyphenols

Naturally, the characteristics of the final

or simple phenols), fatty acids, alcohols,

product will be influenced by a number

and inorganic substances.

of characteristics related to the wooden cask that have an effect on the ageing

The thermal degradation of lignin

process namely the geographical origin

during the manufacturing of the barrels

and botanical species, the container

or its degradation by ethanolysis

volume and its wood toasting grade, the

and hydrolysis during spirit and wine

temperature and humidity in the cellar,

ageing, together with is acid character,

the ageing time and – only in the case of

make it release certain compounds

Brandy de Jerez – the seasoning of the

such as vanillin, coniferylaldehyde,

barrel.

syringaldehyde, sinapaldehyde, and cinnamic and benzoic acids into the

The organoleptic characteristics of a

distillate.

particular brandy will be different if it has been aged in a cask with one type

The degradation of hemicellulose gives

of sherry wine or another. For these

place to compounds such as furfural and

reasons, the characteristics of each barrel

its derivatives. Hydrolysable tannins, such

represent a crucial element that will

as gallotannins and ellagitannins, are

determine the outcome of the brandy

highly soluble in ethanol-water solutions

ageing process. Traditionally, American

and their transformation into gallic acid

the sherry cask’s first use. Nevertheless,

oak (Quercus alba) is the wood type

or ellagic acid by hydrolysis is very

since new sherry casks contain a huge

that is most often used by cooperage

common.

number of extractable compounds, a study on how the repeated use of the

companies in the sherry area for the manufacturing of barrels.

Brandy de Jerez also contains other

same barrels over the years may affect

compounds that come from sherry wine,

their capacity to enrich the distillates and,

As previously said, casks are active

such as tartaric, lactic, or succinic acid.

therefore, to have an impact on the final

contributors to the organoleptic

In those cases, the barrels act as transfer

product’s organoleptic profile should be

properties of brandy. Wood composition,

vectors between the sherry wine that had

of the utmost interest.

atmospheric conditions as well as the

been previously contained in the cask

type of distillate and its alcoholic strength

and the newly ageing distillate.

Wine makers use the same barrels again and again for many years and only

have an influence on the physicalchemical phenomena in which certain

American oak (Quercus alba) toasted

when they are seriously deteriorated or

compounds from the wood and other

wood contains between 460 and 3620

damaged, they are finally discarded. This

components in the distillate are involved.

µg/g wood of low molecular weight

study confirmed that even after many

phenols. 745.24 ± 51.28 µg/g wood of

years of use, wooden casks can be used

Extraction processes are the most

phenolic acids, such as ellagic acid,

to produce brandy. For that purpose,

common among such phenomena,

gallic acid, vanillic acid, or syringic acid,

the same wine spirit has been aged for

but oxidation, esterification, hydrolysis,

1608.18 ± 346.20 µg/g wood of phenolic

two years in different oak casks: new,

ethanolysis, Maillard reactions,

aldehydes and a certain number of

seven years of use (four years containing

polymerization, and polycondensation

volatile compounds that range between

Oloroso wine and three years containing

reactions also take place during the

1919.13 and 2660.91 µg/g wood.

wine spirits), and 32 years of use (eight years containing Oloroso wine and 24

ageing process Also, some water evaporates and trickles out of the barrel

With repeated use, the amount of these

through its pores.

components extracted from the wood

Most of the compounds that are

64

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SPRING 2022

years containing wine spirits).

and transferred into the ageing spirit

Materials and Methods

becomes gradually smaller compared to

The study was carried out in 500 L

DISTILLERS JOURNAL

SCIENCE

In Spain, sherry casks are used for local brandy production

wooden barrels (Tonelerías Domecq,

years containing Oloroso wine and 24

spirit and the samples after 1 year and

Jerez de la Frontera, Spain) made out of

years containing wine spirits). For the

after 2 years of ageing were tasted. A

American oak (AO) (Quercus alba) staves

experiments 4 + 3 used barrels and 8 + 24

total of seven samples were tasted in

of a medium toasting grade. The toasting

used barrels were emptied and refilled

duplicate in two different sessions.

procedure was carried out according to

with fresh wine spirit.

Total Polyphenol Index

the traditional practices in the sherry area.

Each experimental group comprised 10

A Lambda 25 spectrophotometer (Perkin

The Oloroso wine employed for the

barrels divided in two set of five barrels

Elmer, Boston, MA, USA) was used

seasoning the barrels is a white wine

each. Individual samples were taken

to determine the TPI. This instrument

fortified at 18% ABV. and aged following

from each barrel and were combined

was calibrated based on gallic acid

the traditional oxidation process in the

into a pooled sample of each set of five

aliquots in the range 0–750 mg/L. The

sherry area, Criaderas and Solera system.

barrels in order to reduce the variability

total polyphenolic index was measured

of the barrels Two pooled samples were

following the Folin–Ciocalteau method

obtained (n = 2) in each sampling time.

according to the official method

The wine spirit (grapes of the Airén

established by the International

variety) that was aged in all the

Organization of Vine and Wine (OIV).

experiments was supplied by Bodegas

This sampling procedure were carried

Fundador, S.L.U. It had been obtained

out for two years, at 1, 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12,

by column distillation at 77 % ABV. and it

15, 18, 21, and 24 months, for the three

A sample measuring 0.5 mL, 25 mL

was hydrated with demineralized water at

proposed experiences. The initial wine

of ultrapure water, 2.5 mL of Folin–

65% ABV.

spirit was also analysed. A total of 67

Ciocalteau reagent and 10 mL of 20%

samples were studied. Each sample was

sodium carbonate in strict order were

analysed in duplicate.

introduced in a 50 mL volumetric

The conditions of the three experiments

flask and made up to the mark by

in this study are new barrels, 4 + 3 used barrels with seven years of use (four

For the tasting sessions, the two pooled

adding ultrapure water. The dilutions

years containing Oloroso wine and three

samples of the same experiment were

were carried out in duplicate, and the

years containing wine spirits) and 8 + 24

combined into an individual sample of

absorbance was measured at 750 nm.

used barrels with 32 years of use (eight

each experiment (n = 1). The initial wine

Glass cells with a 1 cm optical path were

distillersjournal.info

SPRING 2022

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65

SCIENCE used. The samples were measured in

The highest intensity of vinous note was

perceived in the oral cavity was higher in

duplicate. The results were expressed in

found in the two-year aged brandies,

brandies aged in 4 + 3 used barrels than

mg gallic acid equivalent (GAE) per 100

while the lowest intensity was attributed

in brandies aged in 8 + 24 used barrels,

mL of 100% vol. alcohol.

to the young wine spirits. Similar scores

followed by the spirits aged in new

were awarded to aromatic complexity,

barrels.

Tasting Sessions

vanilla, toasted/caramel, spicy/aniseed,

The tasting sessions took place in

softness, oxidative sweetness, and oak

When focusing on mean values the

a room adequately furnished with

notes.

differences in the taste profile of the brandies grows wider as wood contact

individual workspaces to facilitate the

time increases.

concentration and isolation of the tasters

On the other hand, in terms of flavour

at a controlled temperature (20 °C). The

balance, 2-year brandies were scored

four tasters were all experts belonging to

higher by the tasters than the other two

Conclusions

the staff of Bodegas Fundador, S.L.U. with

younger samples. As expected, fruity

There is a clear difference between

over 20 years’ experience in the field and

character and alcoholic note decreased

brandies aged in new barrels and those

members of the official tasting panel for

significantly with longer ageing times.

aged in used or seasoned barrels. When

the Denomination of Origin Jerez-Xérès-

The differences between the aromatic

barrels are used for the first time, they

Sherry and the Geographical Indication

notes of wine, vanilla, toasted/caramel

release much larger amounts of wood

Brandy de Jerez.

and spicy/aniseed, as well as for the

compounds into the distillate than in later

woody note and the balance in the

uses of the same barrel. However, once

Seventy-two hours before the tasting

flavour evaluation, were confirmed to be

the barrel has been used, no significant

sessions the samples were hydrated with

associated to wood age and usage.

differences can be observed in relation to the number of years of use.

demineralized water up to 36% ABV of alcoholic strength, which is the standard

Thus, when the brandy was aged in new

alcohol content for the commercial

oak barrels, the samples were less vinous

In fact, although slightly higher levels

product. Fifty mL of each sample was

and balanced and presented higher

of volatile acids, phenolic compounds,

served in black standardized glasses,

notes of vanilla, toasted/caramel and oak

A420, A520, and A620, as well as

which remained covered by a glass for 10

than the other brandies. When wood is

aldehydes, acetal, methanol, esters, and

min in order to stabilize the headspace

used for the first time, a large number of

higher alcohols have been detected in

before the tasting. In each session the

phenolic compounds are transferred into

the brandies aged in 4 + 3 used barrels

set of seven samples was presented in a

the liquid. It should be highlighted that

compared to 8 + 24 used barrels, such

random order to the tasters.

the four tasters associated the highest

differences were irrelevant in most cases.

flavour notes of oak, that had been The selected descriptors of odour

attributed to the brandies aged in new

The tasters described as ‘aggressive’ the

and flavour were chosen following the

barrels, with astringent sensations and

brandies aged in the new barrels, that

indications of the Technical File of the

‘aggressiveness’.

released a high number of compounds.

Moreover, the final product was not

Geographical Indication of Brandy de The tasters related the ‘aggressive’

considered as well balanced as those

term with the gustatory evaluation: high

obtained from used barrels. On the other

Tasting Results

alcoholic character, high bitter oak notes,

hand, in most cases the taster did not

According to the tasting sessions carried

low smoothness, and low oxidative

perceived differences between brandies

out, the best perceived descriptors were

sweetness, which is the opposite of a

aged in 4 + 3 or 8 + 24 used barrels.

fruity and vinous notes with medium-high

balanced product. However, they did

intensity values (between three and five

not establish such association in the

It has been confirmed that even after

in a 5-point scale).

case of the brandies aged in used casks.

32 years of use the barrels’ wood

Regarding these descriptors, no big

still contributes to the organoleptic

The ageing notes (vanilla, toasted/

differences were perceived between

properties of brandy. Obviously, used

caramel, spicy/aniseed, oxidative

aged spirits in 4 + 3 used barrels and 8 +

barrels do not yield the same amount of

sweetness, and oak) were evaluated with

24 used barrels according to the tasters’

wood compounds into the distillates, but,

scores between 1 and 3 points, with the

opinion.

attending to the organoleptic properties

Jerez.

of the final product, this could be

highest values awarded to the brandies that had already been aged for two years

The spicy/aniseed note is the only one

considered a positive factor. According

in new oak barrels. All of them were

that was perceived at different intensity

to the main results of this study, it can

characterized by their complex aromatic

between the three types of casks. Thus,

be concluded that wooden barrels

profile, soft and balanced sensations

the tasters associated the highest values

that have been used for a high number

in the oral cavity, with a remarkable

to the samples aged in new barrels and

of years can still be used for ageing

presence of the alcoholic component.

the lowest for the samples aged in 8 +

distillates, providing them with different

24 used barrels. The softness sensation

characteristics than new barrels.

66

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DISTILLERS JOURNAL

THE THE GREEN GLASS EVOLUTION EVOLUTION

The future of of glass glass manufacturing manufacturingisisnow, now,and andwe weare are committed to to reducing reducingour ourenvironmental environmentalimpact, impact, striving towards towards aa net-zero net-zerofuture. future.

We are We are redefining redefining what’s what’spossible possibleininglass glass manufacturing through innovative technologies, manufacturing through innovative technologies, pioneering alternative pioneering alternativematerials, materials,and andestablishing establishing a circular economy. a circular economy.

Partnering with Partnering with leading leadingand andemerging emergingspirits spiritsbrands brands we have elevated their brand with sustainable we have elevated their brand with sustainable packaging and packaging and are are constantly constantlyinnovating innovatingtotodevelop develop less resource-intensive glass packaging. less resource-intensive glass packaging.

Want to craft an eco-concious bottle?

Want to craft an eco-concious bottle?

Speak to our team.

Speak to our team.

Phone: 01977 627 661 Website: allied-glass.com Phone: 01977 627 661 Website: allied-glass.com