The Distillers Journal - Issue 3, Winter 2021

THE MAGAZINE FOR DISTILLERS AND BLENDERS OF SPIRITS

DISTILLERS

J O U R N A L

WINTER 2021 | ISSUE 3 ISSN 2754-0014

ENGLISH SPIRIT The rum giant going from strength to strength

28 | BIMBER DISTILLERY LONDON’S HOT PROPERTY

54| OLD MOTHER HUNT FINDING A CALLING IN SPIRITS

72 | HUMIDITY ITS ROLE IN YOUR DISTILLERY

EADER

LET’S CALL IT WHAT IT IS

L

ast year in the USA, the

let’s add one more, Luxlo, being made by

gin distilleries are also trying versions of a

Brewers Association – which

Steve Adams and his small team.

reduced alcohol drink.

pendent craft brewers – pe-

In a mixer, Luxlo tastes like gin. Drunk

Hayman’s Small Gin falls under EU gin

titioned the federal govern-

neat, it tastes like gin. It has the mouth-

definitions but markets itself as a low

ment to modernise regulations governing

feel of gin. Drink a couple or more, and

alcohol gin. How is this possible? Simple,

non-alcoholic malt beverages in regard

you can get the room-swaying feeling of

each bottle comes with a thimble which

to labelling.

gin. It’s not low-to-no, nor even pretends

is the suggest serving size. Use that in-

to be, it’s 20% ABV, right around the same

stead of a shot glass measure in your gin

While across the Pond you can call a

as Pimm’s or Campari. What is claims to

cocktail and suddenly 40% ABV becomes

product ‘Alcohol-free Gin’ or ‘Alcohol-free

be is an alcohol-reduced beverage for

low alcohol.

Whiskey’, with low-to-no alcohol beer,

those who love gin.

represents small and inde-

you can’t label it beer or a specific cate-

This reminds me of a US bread company

gory like lager – although with categories

When I was a young kid, at stores there

that wanted its product to cash in on the

almost all do so. What is supposed to go

was only one type of milk. At 3.5% fat,

diet market. You can picture the board

on the front label is malt, cereal bever-

it is what we call ‘whole milk’ today.

meeting. The bakery’s lead food engineer

age, or near-beer.

There was 0.5% skimmed milk, but as a

is explaining that it will take a year to

by-product of the dairy industry, it went

develop a low-calorie bread. “Not good

While you might think the Association

to hog farmers or used in the manufac-

enough, I want it now,” says the boss.

wanted to ensure that low-to-no alco-

ture of dried milk. There was very little

“Well, we could then just slice the bread

holic beverages would never be allowed

supermarket sales or demand.

thinner.” And that’s exactly what they did

The BA argues that the ability to refer-

Then the diet craze started, and the

Proper ABV gin goes into a can, mixers

ence beer styles recognised by today’s

dairy folks realised they could make

are added, and suddenly your canned

consumers will strengthen the market

more money selling it to consumers than

gin becomes a drink at 5 to 9% ABV.

for such products. Further, requiring the

pigs. But one day, like the kid pointing

terms “non-alcoholic” or “alcohol free” on

at the king and saying he was wearing

So, if Luxlow starts at 20%, with a bev-

labels and in advertising will dispel any

no clothes, it became obvious what

erage which can be drunk straight, why

potential for consumer confusion arising

everyone knew all along, skim milk tastes

can’t it be called gin as opposed to a

from the use of recognised beer styles.

horrible. However, add a bit of cream

drink for gin lovers? Is reduced-fat milk

How many of these brewers are actually

back into it and at 1.5 to 2%, reduced-fat

still milk?

making low-to-no alcoholic beer – very,

milk tastes almost like whole milk. It’s

very few. NA beer-like beverages are

what most of us today pour on our cereal

Alcohol consumption is down 30% in Ire-

mostly made by big beer or large craft

in the morning.

land. Here, over 25% of young people un-

to be labelled as beer, it is the opposite.

breweries. But the Association feels that putting these beverages into the beer-

Even though skimmed and reduced-fat

fold only strengthens the overall market.

milk did not have all the fat as regular

der 30 are choosing not to drink. People’s relationship with alcohol is changing.

milk, there was never any questioning

Sooner or later, a maker of reduced-alco-

In the UK spirit industry, while London

(except by a very small minority) that this

hol or low-to-no alcohol spirits, with deep

Dry Gin has very specific parameters,

was milk as well. The same cows, eating

pockets and plenty of time, is going to

generic ‘gin’ is what comes closest to the

the same food, being milked in the same

challenge our existing beverage stand-

craft beer industry with small distilleries

manner, will produce milk which can be

ards in court. For our long-term growth,

pushing the envelope of the what the EU

used for all three types. With colour-code

let the changes come from us. Let’s be a

and the Gin Guild consider to be proper

bottle caps and clear labelling, there

bit generous, there is room for us all.

legal gin.

is no consumer confusion as to what is

And, if there weren’t enough distillers

inside.

already willing to disrupt the industry,

In reading the writing on the wall, other

distillersjournal.info

Velo Mitrovich

WINTER 2021

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3

WINTER 2021

CONTENTS

Comment | Why the duty stamps scheme was misconceived How digital print can help you stand out Dos and don’ts on discharging treated effluent

18

Advertorial | Vinolok Meet Vinolok – the unique, exclusive and inspiring closure.

26

Focus | Hard Seltzers Dr Stephanie Brindley from Murphy & Son on why now a great time to tap in on this trend.

36

Sector | Rum UK craft rum producers are creating premium spirits that can rival the Caribbean in quality.

Beating them in volume is a very different story.

41

Meet The Distiller | English Spirit The father of English rum is getting ready to open a second distillery in Cornwall.

44

Meet The Distiller | Old Mother Hunt What do you do when life throws you a curve ball, you make rum. Velo Mitrovich reports.

54

Focus | Brand Finance No matter what your distillery’s size is, it’s valuable finding out what its brand value is in today’s market.

59

Sector | Filling Regardless of size, the financial implications of inaccurate cask filling and disgorging is critical.

66

Sector | Yield Yield calculation on starch-based spirits

70

Sector | Humidity The importance of humidity control

72

13 Trending | CBD

For makers of low-to-no alcohol spirits, CBD might just be what your spirit needs. Velo Mitrovich reports.

4

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WINTER 2021

DISTILLERS JOURNAL

51 Meet the bartender | Rum

In trying to figure out the next big thing, you can talk to distillers or you can talk to those pouring for customers, bartenders

CONTACTS Velo Mitrovich Editor velo@rebymedia.com +44 (0)1442 780 591 Tim Sheahan Managing Editor tim@rebymedia.com +44 (0)1442 780 592 Josh Henderson Head of sales josh@rebymedia.com +44 (0)1442 780 594 Jon Young Publisher jon@rebymedia.com Reby Media 42 Crouchfield, Hemel Hempstead, Herts, HP1 1PA, UK

28 The Big Interview | Bimber

In the two short years since releasing their first expressions, London-based Bimber has become one of the most talked-about names in whisky. We find out why.

62 Meet the Distiller | Luxlo

distillersjournal.info

Another disruptor has entered the gin scene, Steve Adams and his 20% ABV beverage that is made for gin lovers who want to reduce – but not eliminate – alcohol in their drink.

SUBSCRIPTIONS The Distillers Journal is a published four times a year and mailed every January, April, July and October. Subscriptions can be purchased for four issues. Prices for single issue subscriptions or back issues can be obtained by emailing: subscribe@ rebymedia.com

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All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or any information storage or retrieval system, without the express prior written consent of the publisher. The Distillers Journal ISSN 2754-0006 is published quarterly by Reby Media, 42 Crouchfield, Hemel Hempstead, Hertfordshire, HP1 1PA. Subscription records are maintained at Reby Media, 42 Crouchfield, Hemel Hempstead, Hertfordshire, HP1 1PA. The Distillers Journal accepts no responsibility for the accuracy of statements or opinion given within the Journal that is not the expressly designated opinion of the Journal or its publishers. Those opinions expressed in areas other than editorial comment may not be taken as being the opinion of the Journal or its staff, and the aforementioned accept no responsibility or liability for actions that arise therefrom.

WINTER 2021

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5

THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN ORDINARY AND EXTRAORDINARY

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NEWS

EXPORT RECOVERY FOR SCOTCH WHISKY

T

US$1.2 BILLION EXPANSION ON SCHEDULE Kentucky’s Buffalo Trace Distillery quest to meet demand is charging ahead, but the distillery is warning its bourbon fans it will still be a few years before supply catches up with demand.

Despite having around 1 million casks

he Scotch Whisky Association (SWA) has released export figures

currently aging, it is still not enough.

for the first half of 2021, which show signs of recovery following the

Some of the projects of this $1.2 billion

impact of Covid-19 and US tariffs.

(£880 million) include a second still

Data for the first half of 2021 shows that the value of Scotch whisky

house which will double capacity; eight

exports were up 31% compared to the same period last year, with vol-

new fermenters added to the existing

ume up 42%. However, exports remain down 10% by value vs 2019, and the industry

16; a new dry house; a new cooling

still has some way to go to recover lost growth and return to the record export

system including mash coolers, chillers

figures of 2019.

and cooling towers; and a $43 million

Exports of Scotch whisky to the EU fell in the first three months of 2021 compared

wastewater facility, which will allow the

to 2019, as lockdowns on the continent continued and producers adjusted to new

massive facility to be self-sufficient in its

post-Brexit trading arrangements.

treatment of wastewater.

However, EU exports grew at a faster rate between April and June 2021 than in the

Upcoming infrastructure projects for this

same period of 2019. Exports to markets in Asia, which were quick to recover dur-

246-year-old Distillery in the near future

ing the second half of 2020, continued to grow in the first half of 2021. For example,

include a new mill house, which will be

in the first half of this year, China has already surpassed the £89m exported in the

located close to the original location of

whole of 2019 – growing 126% to £91m.

the hammer mill from 80 years ago. The

The United States remains Scotch whisky’s biggest export market by value, worth

mill house will increase the grain grinding

more than £1bn in 2019. But the 25% tariff on single-malt Scotch whisky, which

capacity to match new distillation capaci-

was implemented in October 2019, saw total exports fall to £729m in 2020, a drop

ty by replacing the current hammer mills.

of one third. The tariff was suspended in March 2021, but the industry has warned

Corn, wheat, rye and barley are trucked

that it will take time, investment and support for exports to the US to regain their

into Buffalo Trace from various non-GMO

strength following a devastating 16 months.

farmers in the region, but then must be

Exports of Scotch whisky to the US for the first half of 2021 remain down by 34%

ground on site before the grains can be

when compared to the same period in 2019.

used to make bourbon.

Publishing the figures, the SWA has called on the UK government to fulfil its

More barrel aging warehouses are also

promises to back the industry in the autumn budget, which contributes more than

planned, as well as another craft bottling

£5.5bn to the UK economy and supports 42,000 jobs.

hall which will allow Buffalo Trace to pro-

Karen Betts, Chief Executive of the SWA, said: “The pace of recovery of Scotch

duce more single barrel and small batch

whisky exports is very promising. Last year, the combination of US tariffs and

bourbons.

Covid-19 brought Scotch whisky exports to their lowest level in a decade, so it’s

“We’ve made great strides in our expan-

encouraging to see them start to regain strength.

sion so far, but we still have a long way

“But like many other sectors, Scotch whisky companies are feeling the ongoing im-

to go in order to meet the needs of our

pacts of trade disruption on our supply chain and global distribution, and the cost

fans,” said Master Distiller Harlen Wheat-

of goods and services has risen significantly. In addition, international tourism is yet

ley. “We continue to take all the proper

to recover, and global hospitality is some way from emerging from the impact of

steps to ensure every barrel is of the

the pandemic.

highest quality as we increase supply.”

“Our industry will need support to recover fully from the turbulence and lost ex-

In a project that most distillers can only

ports of the last couple of years. As part of this, the UK government must commit

dream about, Buffalo Trace also has a

to completing the long-awaited review of alcohol duty, and to living up to its

special experimental warehouse where

manifesto commitment to ensure that Scotch whisky is treated fairly against other

30,000 casks can be exposed to different

categories of alcohol.

temperatures, humidity and warehousing

“As we continue to wait for this promise to be delivered, there are other opportuni-

techniques to see what conditions pro-

ties the government can pursue to boost the industry’s recovery in global markets.

duce the best bourbon and other spirits.

Reducing the 150% tariff on Scotch whisky in India must be the UK government’s top priority when trade negotiations begin later this year.”

distillersjournal.info

WINTER 2021

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7

NEWS

GLENMORANGIE HOME OF IMAGINATION

scope of delicious new flavours to Scotch

company’s latest step beyond the beer

whisky.”

aisle, a key part of a strategy to diversify

Thomas Moradpour, president and CEO

and premiumize its portfolio of beverag-

of The Glenmorangie Company, said:

es.

“Global demand for Glenmorangie is

Molson Coors’ decision to begin its spirits

growing significantly. The first of its kind,

journey with a whiskey is premised on

Scottish distillery Glenmorangie has

our Lighthouse experimental distillery is

three factors: the spirit’s unbridled growth

opened its new Lighthouse Distillery,

the keystone of our plans to stay at the

over the past two decades, a built-in

designed from the ground up for whisky

forefront of taste innovation. By giving our

affinity of beer drinkers for a whiskey

experimentation rather than yield.

talented creation team free rein, we will

produced by a brewery, and a desire to

“We have been pushing single malt

welcome even more consumers world-

build more premium offerings within the

boundaries for decades. Our whisky cre-

wide to enjoy delicious whiskies.”

company’s portfolio.

US BEER GIANT TO RELEASE SPIRIT

SKATEBOARDER POWERED BY SAKE

nations run wild,” says the distillery.

Molson Coors Beverage Company has

Japanese teen skateboarder Sakura

Named for its landmark approach to

just released its first full-strength spirit,

Yosozumi’s quest for Olympic gold might

whisky, the Lighthouse distillery is a

a blended American whiskey made with

not have ever happened if it wasn’t for a

“shining beacon on the Highland coast-

Coors malt and Rocky Mountain water

sake brewery in Wakayama, Japan.

line, at the heart of our distillery”, says

called Five Trail.

Brewery Yoshimura Hideo Shoten heard

Glenmorangie.

Under the banner Coors Whiskey Co.,

about how local skater Yosozumi was

Looking out to sea like an actual light-

Five Trail rolled out on 1 September via

faced with a massive commute to reach

house, the towering 20m-high glass

Molson Coors’ distributor network in the

the nearest skateboard park to practise

stillhouse can be seen for miles around.

States. As to its international plans and

her craft.

Its design is dramatically different from

if it’s coming to the UK, the brewery has

Yoshimura Hideo Shoten turned an un-

the traditional stone buildings of the main

not responded.

used rice mill into a massive skateboard

distillery, established more than 175 years

The 95-proof, ultra-premium whiskey,

park for Yosozumi to use as her private

ago.

was distilled, blended and bottled in

practice grounds, turning a three-hour

“Our Lighthouse was inspired by the

partnership with Bardstown Bourbon Co.

commute into a five-minute stroll. Called

“What if...?” approach of Dr Bill Lumsden,

in Kentucky. It’s made from a blend of

‘Sakura Park’, the skateboarder spent

our Director of Whisky Creation. Spurred

Colorado single-malt whiskey and three

around eight to 10 hours a day at the

on by his many whisky world-firsts and

bourbons, cut to proof with Rocky Moun-

park, mastering a reported 540 tricks.

wondrous limited editions, we conceived

tain water. It is packaged in 750-mililiter

In an interview, Gold Medal winner Yoso-

the Lighthouse as a sensory playground.

bottles and will carry a suggested retail

zumi said: “I would not have perfected by

Inside this building, the first of its kind, he

price of $59.99 (£44).

skills without the park, I am so grateful

and his team will seek to redefine every

The whiskey is the first full-strength spirit

the brewery.”

aspect of their craft and bring a kaleido-

from Molson Coors and represents the

ators are endlessly experimental in their quest to dream up delicious whiskies for more people to enjoy. Now, to give them the freedom to bring their most extraordinary ideas to life, we are opening the doors to a ground-breaking innovation distillery, where they can let their imagi-

Glenmorangie’s new Lighthouse Distillery

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WINTER 2021

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NEWS

Irish alcohol consumption fell by nearly 11 percent in the first half of 2021

IRISH ALCOHOL CONSUMPTION FALLS

the first half of 2021 are down by 14.1%

would be put in place to reduce potential

compared with the same period in 2019,

harm.

before the pandemic hit.

However, a spokesperson for the Scotch

Patricia Callan, Director of Drinks Ireland

Whisky Association (SWA) said that some

said: “While the decline in alcohol con-

loss of spirt from casks during maturation

New Revenue Clearance figures show

sumption was accelerated by Covid-19, it

is a natural part of the whisky making

that Irish alcohol consumption fell by

should be noted that it is in line with the

process.

nearly 11 percent in the first half of 2021

trend of consumption falling generally

“Loss of ethanol average around two

(January-June), compared with the same

in Ireland over the past 30 years. The

percent per year and, as the Scottish

period last year. Consumption in Ireland

average alcohol consumption in 2020

Government points out, is neither harmful

is now at the lowest in 30 years, accord-

was 29.8% lower than the peak of 2001.

to the health nor impact on the environ-

ing to Patricia Callan, director of Drinks

Overall, alcohol consumption declined

ment due to its rapid dispersal,” said the

Ireland.

last year by 6.6% to its lowest level in

SWA.

This fall is a result of the closure of the

thirty years.”

In June 2012 Greer was strongly criticised for posting a tweet saying: “I’m not exag-

hospitality industry, but is also in line

gerating when I say nothing would thrill

sales were the hardest hit, down by 15%

GREENS SWEATING ‘ANGEL’S SHARE’

and 13% respectively. Typically, around

Scottish Green MSP Ross Greer has

ill at the time) which contained the words

60% of beer sales and 45% of cider sales

challenged the Scottish Government on

“hope she goes soon!”

are in Ireland’s pubs, restaurants, and

its lack of date surrounding whisky mat-

On 25 January 2019, Greer posted a tweet

hotels.

uration loss after being contacted by an

calling Winston Churchill “a white su-

However, consumption was down across

industrial chemist in regards to ethanol

premacist mass murderer.” He later went

all categories, with wine consumption

evaporation and global warming, accord-

on Good Morning Britain and Politics Live

down by 11.5% and spirits down by 0.3%.

ing to an article in The Courier.

and was challenged on his views. This

The new figures confirm that alcohol

Greer asked the government what date it

was not the first time Greer has been

consumption declined dramatically as

plans on regulating emissions from mat-

criticised for his comments about the

a result of Covid-19. The figures from

uration loss, as well as what mitigations

Second World War; a few years prior he

with the long-term trend of consumption declining in Ireland, according to Drinks Ireland, which represents drinks manufacturers and suppliers.

The figures show that beer and cider

10

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WINTER 2021

me more than for Buckingham Palace to burn to the ground.” Later the same year, Greer was criticised for tweeting about organising a party to celebrate the death of Margaret Thatcher (who was critically

DISTILLERS JOURNAL

NEWS was accused of historical ignorance after

supermarkets, a rise of £1.9 billion on the

speciality. In 2019, we set a world record

tweeting that “Britain was happy to live

year before. The Government is commit-

when we sold a Macallan 1989 cask for

with Hitler”.

ted to a review of the duty system and

a per-bottle price of HK$17,103. The cask

His self-publicity seems to work,

has launched a call for evidence on how

in this sale has achieved a per-bottle

however. He was elected in 2016 to the

it could be reformed.

price of HK$22,099 – and a new world record – a very strong increase in just

Scottish Parliament, making him at 21, the youngest person ever elected to the Parliament.

SUPERMARKET SPIRITS TAX TO RISE

RECORD FOR CASK

two years. Meanwhile, Japanese whisky

A cask of Macallan 1991 achieved a world

the final editions of Karuizawa whisky will

record price recently at Bonhams auction

be released later this year has fuelled

company when it sold for HK$4,464,000,

demand.”

with Yamazaki and Karuizawa lots 100% sold in our sale. The announcement that

or about £417,505. The cask, which will yield 202 bottles, sold for the highest

For all those drinkers who are enjoying

per-bottle price for any whisky cask of-

paying less to drink at home than in a

fered at auction, equating to HK$22,099,

pub or restaurant, those days might soon

or £2,040.

be over.

Commenting on the result, Daniel Lam,

In an attempt to raise revenue, the Treas-

Bonhams director of Wine and Spirits,

ury is considering a levy on spirits from

Asia, said: “In terms of both buying and

supermarkets or local stores. Some Tory

selling, 2021 has been a strong and resil-

MPs see this ‘levelling of the playing field”

ient market for whisky. Our year-to-date

as a way of helping the ailing hospitality

total has surpassed that for the same

industry.

period before COVID-19 in 2019.

In the 17 weeks of lockdown to 11 July,

“Cask-collecting is fast growing as a trend

Brits spent £7.7 billion on alcohol at

and one which has become a Bonhams

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TRENDING

CANNABIS

CBD INDUSTRY TO GROW LIKE A WEED

FOR MAKERS OF LOWTO-NO ALCOHOL SPIRITS, CBD MIGHT JUST BE WHAT YOUR SPIRIT NEEDS. VELO MITROVICH REPORTS

distillersjournal.info

F

rom the big players such

too, you can find a lot of nonsense

as Diageo to the small

around it as well.

independents, spirit manufacturers are seeing

On the beer side, if you were trying to get

low-to-no alcoholic spirits as

a recommended dose from the skimpy

being here for the long haul. But there is

amount some breweries use, you’d have

a major problem with them. As much as

to drink around 11 cans of their beer.

makers such as Lyres might say it’s like

With that amount of alcohol in you, you’d

drinking the real thing, it’s not.

be flat on your back – well before the

Humans like the relax, mellow feeling

calming effect of CBD kicks in.

that alcohol brings, and we like the

There are cocktail bars in the UK where

social aspect of it all. In a cliff cave,

they are mixing CBD in with alcoholic

located above one of Egypt’s pyramids,

drinks, with one serving the drink in a

archaeologists discovered what appears

glass bong. For these expensive drinks,

to be an early pub. Bowls and containers

however, is it the alcohol you feel?

were found there that were commonly

Considering all the health claims

used for making beer in the ancient time.

currently regarding CBD, you have to wonder if CBD is somehow Latin for

You can easily picture a group of friends

snake oil. But, that said, we think there

climbing up to this cave after hauling

is a real potential with CBD and alcohol-

their last stone of the day. They’d have a

free spirits, you just have to know what

beer, a laugh, and watch the sun set over

you’re doing.

the deserts to the West.

As much effort and work that Spencer

One person who does is Dr Keith Villa.

Matthews has put into his company

Not only does has his own cannabis

CleanCo, even if it was available 3,000

brewery in Colorado, he’s also just written

years ago, our Egyptians would not have

a book available here on Amazon titled

been cracking open a bottle of gin-

‘Brewing with Cannabis: using THC and

alternative Clean G and raise a mug of it

CDB in beer’.

to the end of the workday.

Even for distillery folks, Keith Villa’s name probably sounds familiar. He’s the

But there is something that makers of

man who created Blue Moon in 1995,

low-to-no alcohol spirits could be putting

after getting his PhD in brewing from

in their drinks to bring about a pleasant

the University of Brussels. Bringing the

feeling. That is, cannabidiol, better known

ideas of Belgium beer back to the States,

as CBD.

he helped kick off the US craft beer

Perfectly legal in the UK, it’s the second

movement.

most prevalent of the active ingredients of cannabis with most using CDB oil to

Retiring recently from Molson-Coors,

relieve pain or to relax. Despite all the

which oversaw Blue Moon, he opened

hint-hint, nudge-nudge of how some

CERIA Brewing Company, a real

CBD producers present their product, it

trailblazer in the growing US market of

doesn’t make you high like with THC or

non-alcoholic, cannabis-infused beers.

have you burst into Bob Marley songs.

At this point some of you are shaking your heads at the thought of CBD and

You can find it in health food stores as

this is understandable. While some

oil or tinctures, in gummies – like THC

people believe there is nothing as

edibles – and in drinks. Unfortunately,

effective in reducing pain, anxiety or

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13

CANNABIS helping them to relax without the side

the back of your throat. Having this nerve

affects of medications – or even alcohol

numb can be good thing if you have

In text taken directly from Villa’s book,

– there are just as many who say it’s a

cancer and you’re on chemo,” he says.

‘Brewing with Cannabis’, he states that in layman’s terms, emulsification is

fraud.

A common side effect of the treatment is

simply the forced mixing of two liquids

WHAT IS CBD?

for patients to have a series of dry heaves

that normally do not mix together, such

CBD is just one of the roughly 100

– easily numbering 100 a day. But by

as oil and water. For example, when a

cannabinoids that exist in the cannabis

taking CBD, it makes the vagus nerve no

chef is making a vinaigrette dressing it

plant. For those who have experimented

longer sensitive to the chemo treatment.

is necessary to add an emulsifier so that

with cannabis, you know that the effects

“That’s great for people on chemo.

the oil fraction does not separate from

of THC are real. But with CBD, the effects

However. Let’s say you’re at a university

the vinegar (water-based) fraction.

are not as pronounced, leaving you

party and people are doing shots of

In this case, many chefs will use a small

wondering if the so-called health benefits

tequila or whiskey or whatever. Typically,

amount of egg yolk or honey, or more

are genuine or just a placebo effect?

after five, six or seven shots, most

refined ingredients such as xanthan gum

According to Villa, as CBD is commonly

people will start to feel really upset in the

or soy lecithin, to emulsify or “mix” the

sold, it’s hit or miss whether it works with

stomach. It’s the body’s way of saying I’ve

two immiscible ingredients. The end

people.

got to get rid of all this alcohol, and then

result is a salad dressing that is well

“Some people are very sensitive to it

they’ll run to the toilet and throw up –

blended and pours smoothly without

and a small amount works, while others

well, hopefully they make it,” says Villa.

separating because the oil has been formed into microscopic droplets that

are not sensitive and they need a huge amount of CBD to work,” he tells Distillers.

But with CBD or THC, the body can lose

remain stable in suspension.

According to Eoin Keenan, founder of the

this reflex.

The same can be done with cannabis oils. Although most cannabis

UK’s Goodrays which makes premium non-alcoholic CBD drinks, there are

“So, you keep drinking shots of tequila.

emulsification processes are proprietary,

differences in strengths of CBD in like-

You don’t have to throw up and by the

they can generally be grouped into two

for-like measures. He uses CBD from

time it’s too late, you can be very sick

categories: a conventional emulsification

Colorado which he finds is about three

from alcohol poisoning or potentially

process, and a more complex process

times the strength of UK-produced CBD.

dead because that nerve wasn’t working

that makes CBD water compatible.

While Villa believes a dose of CBD needs

the way it should. That’s one of the more

For further details on both of these

to be 100mg to be effective, depending

serious things that we’re aware of in

techniques, it’s recommended you buy

on the source of the CBD, Keenan

mixing CBD and alcohol.”

his book.

believes a dose of 30mg can be effective.

ADDING TO BEVERAGES

The second issue with using CBD is its

If you have bought CBD products in

Although Villa describes the whole

slightly bitter taste, but Villa thinks this

North America and found them to be

process of putting CDB into a beverage

would work well in low-to-no alcohol

more effective than those bought here,

as something simple that any brewer or

spirits.

according to Villa it’s because of the

distiller should be able to do. If you talk

For a lot of distillers, going into gin or

addition of other cannabinoids such as

to him, however, you’ll be wishing you

rum production is a second career for

CBC, CBN and CBG. Although all three of

had paid more attention in your school

them. While most brewers have quite a

these are non-intoxicating cannabinoid

chemistry class.

bit of experience, many gin distillers do

similar to CBD, they can’t be used in the

In a nutshell there are two challenges.

not. The question was put to Villa if there

UK because of trace amounts of THC. If

The first is, much like liquid hop extract,

would be a gigantic learning curve to

you purchase CBD here from a supplier

CBD and other cannabinoids have an

figure out how to put CBD into a non-

that claims its CBD is broad spectrum

oily, sticky texture when extracted from

alcoholic spirit?

– in other words also containing CBC,

the cannabis plant, and these oils do not

CBN and CBG – be wary. According to

readily mix with water and water-based

“It is something that is a simple process

UK’s PureConnect CBD, most of this is

beverages.

which you can do on your kitchen stove.

You don’t have to be experienced,

marketing and is not transparent.

Therefore, any distiller or brewer who

you don’t have to have a degree in

NO TO ALCOHOL

uses CBD extracts in the distilling

biochemistry, it’s really simple.”

Although it’s popular here, Keith Villa

process must figure out a way to mix

Already there seems to be some winners

never recommends mixing CBD or THC

the oily components into the drink

and losers in the entire CBD category. If

with an alcoholic drink, either in a bottle

successfully. However, Villa says if you

you decide to make CBD infused non-

or cocktail.

can make a salad dressing that is well

alcoholic spirts, how will you prevent it

“CBD is known to affect the vagus nerve,

blended and doesn’t separate into oil and

from being a flash in the pan and being

that’s the nerve that causes the gag

water components, you can make a CBD

here for the long run?

reflex if you stick your fingers down to

beverage.

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DISTILLERS JOURNAL

CANNABIS “I think one thing is education,” says Villa.

suppressants, others to act like a natural

happen and quite possibly before 2025.

“Because most people are familiar with

Viagra and in some studies showing that

If you’re not prepared for this, legalised

cannabis CBD or THC, they believe it

there is the potential for cannabinoids

cannabis could easily take business away

either makes you high or it has effects

to kill off cancer cells. But in the States,

from you if people choose it over alcohol.

such as to make you sleepy or relieve

because cannabis is still seen as illegal

pain.

by the federal government, university

After the efforts of a mother attempting

The problem, he says, is that there are

grants are not given nor asked for to

to get medical cannabis for her son who

over 100 cannabinoids in the plant, each

study the plant’s potential.

was suffering from massive seizures, the

of which does something slightly different

UK government relented and said yes,

than the other. While some have been

LEGALISE IN THE UK

paving the way for cannabis to be used

studies like CBD, THC and a handful

Despite the government saying no way,

legally here for medical use – although

of others, most haven’t been. Some

no how, and not here, there are several

access remains difficult. In the USA, this

cannabinoids have shown to be appetite

reasons why Distillers believes this will

was the first step with the States that now

distillersjournal.info

WINTER 2021

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15

CANNABIS

Keith Villa is a major proponent of adding CBD and THC to nonalcoholic drinks

Affairs (IEA), released a report which

Khan believes there is widespread public

showed that the UK’s cannabis black

support for a more relaxed approach to

market is worth an astonishing £2.6 billion

decriminalisation, citing polls showing

annually, with 225 tonnes of cannabis

more than half of the UK – and nearly

sold to over three million Britons.

two-thirds of those in the capital –

allow it for recreational use as well.

According to the report, licensed sales of

support legalising cannabis for adult

Once the genie was let out of the bottle,

cannabis would result in safer and better-

recreational use.

there was never a chance of putting

regulated cannabis to eliminate the

What you might find surprising is, legal

him back in. Marijuana medical clinics

dangerous strains that currently pollute

cannabis production is already here and

started appearing everywhere in states

the landscape.

in a major way. According to a recent UN report, the UK is the world’s largest

such as California and Colorado with a promise that you would not leave

Assuming licensed marijuana would

export producer of legal cannabis for

without a marijuana medical card in your

then make up 95% of the market, with a

medical and scientific uses.

pocket. Conditions which are next to

VAT of 20% and an excise tax of 30%, it

impossible to disprove, such as back pain

would produce almost £700 million of

The Independent reported that the

and chronic headaches, were the main

revenue. The growth in business and new

budding cannabis industry has been

reasons given. It was just a small jump

employment would add an extra £300

forecast to be on an explosive growth

then to recreational use.

million a year and the UK Government

trajectory, with some reports estimating

would also save around £300 million

that the UK’s market alone will be worth

Despite the government here saying

a year in reduced policing and judicial

up to £952 million by 2024. The tobacco

it will never happen due to health

costs.

industry is already planning on being part

concerns, in looking at nearly 300-years

With a government that is cash-strapped

of this.

of alcohol legislation, health has never

due to the Covid pandemic, the idea

come before tax revenue. Last year the

of taxing cannabis is going to be very

Our craft spirits industry will take

government made £12.12 billion from

tempting. London mayor Sadiq Khan said

advantage of this as well. Keith Villa says

alcohol sales. At the same time, there

he will set up an independent London

that smoking anything is rapidly losing

were nearly 4,000 alcohol-related deaths

drugs commission to examine the

favour and popping an edible seems like

in England and Wales.

potential health, economic and criminal

a solitary activity. But having a cannabis

justice benefits of decriminalising the

drink, it’s a social way to enjoy cannabis

class-B drug.

with friends.

In June 2018, the Institute of Economic

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DISTILLERS JOURNAL

COMMENT COMMENT

REVOKE NOW DUTY STAMPS SCHEME! THE DUTY STAMPS SCHEME WAS MISCONCEIVED AND POINTLESS AND HAS BEEN A BURDEN ON OUR LEGITIMATE DISTILLING INDUSTRY SINCE ITS INCEPTION, WRITES ALAN POWELL, SPECIALIST EXCISE DUTIES CONSULTANT

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T

he spirits duty stamps scheme is reported to be a burden upon the spirits industry and in particular upon the artisan and

smaller spirits producers and packers.

A frequent reference to industry trade bodies is how traders should deal with duty stamps legislation concerning refilled stamped bottles/containers by the producer or where the producer takes a large container of spirits to re-fill bottles at on-trade retail outlets etc.

On behalf of the industry, I have written to HMRC Policy officials several times using official channels to discuss reevaluation of the duty stamps scheme and in particular in the context of re-use

Alan Powell accepting an award in 2019 at the Craft Distilling Expo for outstanding services to craft distilling

of empty bottles that will be re-filled with duty-paid spirits and bearing in mind the

2019 court of appeal case “Seabrook

environmental imperative.

Warehousing Ltd”, in which the following

At the date of writing, no meaningful

extract is highly significant and relevant:

response has been forthcoming. But in any event, we really need to look at the

LORD JUSTICE VOS: What is the evidence?

background to the duty stamps scheme

In a nutshell is it that experience shows

and why it ought never have been

that these things have to be regulated

implemented. It is a monumental cynical

because there are a lot of foreign

deception played upon the industry by

fraudsters around trading in alcohol?

civil servants who miscalculated spirits duty fraud but rather than acknowledge

MR KINNEAR (QC for HMRC): So, very

they had erred, ploughed on with

briefly, the way in which the inward

measures that have placed immense and

diversion fraud works is that if there is

pointless burdens upon the legitimate

a lorry in Calais it has to have an ARC

trade.

document, which is to be logged on to the system. If the lorry gets to Dover and

ALCOHOL DUTY FRAUD

it is not checked by the Customs it drives

Alcohol duty fraud has been primarily

through, it parks up somewhere, it is has

in inward diversion of large volumes

not had to show its ARC document and

of popular (and relatively inexpensive)

what happens is another lorry, carrying

British-produced brands of lager. The

exactly the same load with a copy, or with

fraud was subject to a thorough report by

the same ARC number is sitting in Calais,

the All-Party Parliamentary Beer Group

and it comes across. If it is not stopped

in 2012 and disclosures by HMRC to the

there will be another one and another

National Audit Office and Public Accounts

one. Until a lorry is stopped carrying that

Committee.

particular ARC ‘mirror loads’, as they are

Moreover, as in particular, and in support

described, can continue to come into the

of the analysis above, we refer to a

country.

DISTILLERS JOURNAL

COMMENT LORD JUSTICE VOS: And what is the

HMT to ministers that the duty stamp

THE SPIRITS FRAUDS 1994-98

position in other Member States?

scheme implemented, including the

The full scale of the frauds actually

endorsement by the HMCE Duty Stamps

incited, nurtured and orchestrated by

MR KINNEAR (QC for HMRC) Nothing like

Unit that it was in accordance with the Civil

HMCE’s Investigation Division between

that which it is in the United Kingdom,

Service Code of conduct.”

1994 -98 was not widely known until the events at Liverpool Crown Court

simply because the duty is so high in the United Kingdom it is worth the risk. It

Our response

in November 2002 and HMCE’s case

generally tends to be lower value goods,

As was usual at that time, at least one

collapsing with the disclosures that the

lower value wines and beers that are

policy casework paper file will have been

frauds were in fact entrapment and had

smuggled because the cost of a lorry of

created and used for ongoing policy

been closed by 1998. This debacle was

expensive spirits, for instance, would be

development over the period 2001 (when

the main catalyst (if not to say cause)

so great that the return in relation to the

scheme first considered) to 2006 and

of HMCE being merged with the Inland

duty would not be worth the risk of losing a

maybe beyond.

Revenue in 2005). But other government

lorry, because the (respective rate of) duty

We know these files along with numerous

agencies had been deceived prior to

on a bottle of wine, or a bottle of whisky

others, have been reviewed and many

2002; if we refer to the NAO/A&CG’s

is the same, whether it is a £3 bottle or a

destroyed as we prepare for moves to

Report into duty fraud of 19 July 2001, it

£3,000 bottle (ie excluding the duty).

new regional centres. Further, having also

is stated in the executive summary:

examined residual paper-based records

A key approach of the National

LORD JUSTICE VOS: So, it is cheap

relating to policy work held at a physical

Investigation Service to tackle diversion

alcohol…”

storage facility, we can confirm none relate

frauds was to protect the revenue by

to the information you seek.

identifying the principals behind the fraud

This is exactly what HMRC has been

We therefore believe we no longer hold

and collecting sufficient evidence to

telling the industry, the PAC, the APPBG

the information requested: our standard

secure their conviction. The main method

and the communication media for years

retention period for records we hold is 6

of achieving this was identifying suspect

about the nature of the fraud.

years plus current, otherwise known as 6

consignments and allowing fraudsters

In fact, spirits excise duty fraud dissipated

years + 1. This is defined as 6 years after

to move goods from excise warehouses

after HMCE’s Investigation Division’s own

the last entry in a record followed by first

whilst under observation (known as “letting

orchestration of illegal covert outward

review or destruction to be carried out in

loads run”). Selected consignments would

diversion frauds between 1994-1998 was

the additional current (+ 1) accounting year.

be followed and when enough evidence

stopped but by then had led to revenue

We can only retain records beyond our

was obtained the perpetrators would be

loss of hundreds of millions of pounds.

default retention period if their retention

arrested. An unavoidable consequence

HMCE in Policy had believed the fraud

can be justified for statutory, regulatory,

of this method was that arrears of duty

to be endemic in the then paper-based

legal or security reasons, or for their

would build up during the course of the

control system but was contained to

historic value. We have not been able to

investigation. The National Investigation

a specific operation. After it had been

confirm any such reasons applied to the

Service considered that “letting loads

closed, there was no spirits fraud but by

information you require, which means it’s

run” was justifiable if it led to successful

then HMCE had put in train the WOWGR

likely to have been destroyed.

prosecutions and arrears of duty were recovered through confiscation orders from

registered owners’ provisions (and lobbied the EU Member States for what

So, it is very convenient for HMRC that

would become the EMCS).

there is said to be no available trail of

Even worse, in the knowledge that the

evidence. We can look at the empirical

The truth, when it came out, is that

real estimates for spirits fraud were no

evidence to disprove, as far as anything

loads weren’t just being let to run;

longer the £500 - £600 million per year

can, that the duty stamps scheme was

HMCE’s Investigation Division (ID)

but statistically practically nil, HMCE

ever necessary.

were encouraging more parties to

the Courts.

participate in the fraud (the ID fraud).

continued with the spirits duty stamps scheme which was a cynical deception

BACKGROUND

This was reported mainly at an

upon the industry.

The duty stamps scheme was said by

eponymous warehouse, but the ID were

This year, I requested to be provided with

HMCE/HMRC to be necessary to counter

encouraging other warehousekeepers to

sight of the full sign-off chain from HMRC

spirits duty fraud that was prevalent in

participate in the fraud. Another former

under the Freedom of Information Act. On

2001 and presumably up to 2006. In fact

warehousekeeper has provided evidence

4 August I received the reply below:

(and it is a fact), there was no spirits duty

in an email to me of 12 August 2019

fraud post 1998 that was of any statistical

headed working with HMRC on running

Freedom of Information Act 2000 (FOIA)

significance. Despite this, and HMCE

scams of his being encouraged by HMCE

Thank you for your request, which was

(as was) being aware (or ought to have

to participate in the entrapment and

received on 4 July, for the following

been aware) of this fact, the duty stamps

other criminal activities at his warehouse.

information:

scheme was made law in February 2006.

“The full sign-off chain with HMCE and

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19

COMMENT He says: “I was contacted by a fellow who

with concerns of a fraud that had ceased

(2008-2009). This is barely more than

wanted me to receive similar products

to exist. In fact, the NAO/A&CG report

the revenue per year that was receipted

to export. He said, ‘I don’t want to mess

makes very grim reading with hindsight.

roughly four years before the duty

about with bits and bats, I want to do a

Worse, the report and other government

stamps scheme.

load a day.’ I explained that our movement

publications stated that many extra

The revenue receipts from 2009 then

guarantee was not big enough to which

controls and obligations be brought

increase roughly in line with duty

he said: ‘Sort out getting it increased so we

in because to do nothing was “not an

increases for spirits. In terms of the

can do the business, your cut will come in

option”. These measures included the

rationale for duty stamps, it would appear

brown envelopes!’

implementation of a spirits duty stamps

that either there was no material fraud

scheme and registration of owners

in spirits or the duty stamps scheme

I reported this to HMRC’s Investigation

of goods in warehouse, which would

has had no discernible effect on the

Division. Their response was for me to go

become WOWGR – Warehousekeepers

underlying fraud.

“along with him. We’ll arrest both of you,

and Owners of Warehoused Goods

The truth is, I believe (in fact know/

but you’ll just be let go….”

Regulations. A certificate obtained under

confirmed from discussions with former

these regulations allows a business to

HMRC colleagues working on the duty

move goods without payment of duty

stamps scheme) that there was no fraud

from one bonded warehouse to another.

in spirits of any statistical significance

I… didn’t pursue it any further.

from 1998 and that which had existed

HMCE’s HQ Policy officials at the time did not know this entrapment activity

SCHEME IMPLEMENTATION

was based upon orchestration by

was being carried out by the ID and were

Despite civil servants asserting there was

HMCE’s Investigation Division.

urging outfield officials that any fraud be

still a duty fraud of an astonishing and

disrupted rather than gathering evidence

impossible £600 million, the industry had

TAX GAP

on what was believed to be a loss of

misgivings, especially the Scotch Whisky

There has been minimal spirits duty

control due to post Single market paper-

Association. For example, it is reported

fraud since the cessation of the HMCE

based control weaknesses. This was

in the Treasury select committee of 17

entrapment fraud in 1998 (which was

my direct experience when working in

November 2004 questioning of (then)

almost exclusively in spirits), confirmed

HMCE’s Holding and Movements Policy

HMCE senior staff, Mr John McFall MP

(a) by the statements by HMRC and

branch and elsewhere in the HQ Division.

putting to HMCE

counsel for HMRC in Seabrook that spirits

In their memorandum the Scotch Whisky

is not the focus of fraud and (b) the tax

DATA ON REVENUE RECEIPTS

Association say that there is an urgent

gap estimates that show barely any illicit

By the time the fraud was stopped in

need for a reality check to be introduced

activity.

1998, the revenue receipts that had

to Customs’ methodology and estimates

The latest tax gap (“illicit trade”) figures

“dropped off a cliff” between 1994-1998,

of fraud. You are well aware that the

of £10 million duty per year from revenue

rapidly picked up and then soared

National Audit Office concluded that your

receipts of now over £4 billion a year are

beyond the revenues that had been

estimate for spirits fraud of £600m should

consistent with the “samizdat” knowledge

stable prior to the ID fraud.

be presented as a range between £330m

of level of fraud estimated by HMCE after

The official spirits revenue receipts shows

and £1,080m. They also concluded that

1998 (and during the period leading to

the increase in receipts from a low in

the Scotch Whisky Association estimate

the (unnecessary) spirits duty stamps

1997 of £1556 million recover to exceed

should be presented as a range between

implementation).

slightly where they were before the fraud

£10m and £260m statistically.

As I said in this article’s beginning, the

in 1999 (£1975), to rise to £1919 million

Indeed, there needed to be not just a

duty stamps scheme was misconceived

in 2001-2002 and then surges again in

reality check on HMCE’s figures but an

and pointless and has been a burden on

2002-2003 to £2,273 million, probably

honesty check which sadly did not occur;

our legitimate distilling industry since its

as part of the incremental increases in

despite the true figure of losses passed

inception. It needs to be revoked.

revenue but also because what were

to me by colleagues then still working in

spirits-based RTDs at the “cooler” wine

HMCE of a mere £15 million (close to the

Alan Powell is a specialist excise duties

rates (and very popular at that time)

SWA £10 million lower end estimate), the

consultant, formerly a Policy official within

became dutied as spirits. Thereafter, and

machinery was in motion and the truth

HMCE’s HQ teams. He sits on Indirect

despite the duty rate itself not changing

was suppressed.

Tax Committee the Chartered Institute of

at this time, the revenue take by 2005-6

The duty stamps scheme was made

Taxation, is honorary advisor to the United

was £2309 million.

effective 22 February 2006. If there had

Kingdom Warehousing Association and

It is evident that the revenues on

been significant fraud, one might expect

founded the British Distillers Alliance

spirits were healthy at the time of the

there to be a visible, positive effect.

as a conduit for consultation with, and

NAO/A&CG report of 2001 and from that

Instead, the revenue receipts for 2005-6

representation to, government bodies and

time spirits duty fraud had been of no

of £2309 million reduce to £2,256 million

to assist and advise on technical matters.

statistical significance. Yet government

for 2006-7. The next two years’ receipts

analysis and reports at that time are rife

are £2374 million and £2358 million

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WINTER 2021

DISTILLERS JOURNAL

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COMMENT

MAKE AN IMPRESSION WHEN IT COMES TO STANDING OUT FROM THE COMPETITION, DIGITAL PRINT REMAINS AN EXTREMELY FLEXIBLE AND VERSATILE OPTION FOR BEERS, WINES AND SPIRITS BRANDS TO CAPTURE THE ATTENTION OF THE CONSUMERS, EXPLAINS SPRINGFIELD SOLUTIONS.

P

ackaging is an extremely important tool when it comes to marketing your product in the beers, wines and spirits industry.

Your packaging is often the first point of contact between a consumer and your brand. Therefore, you must create a lasting first impression with eye-catching, high-quality packaging.

Whether showcasing your product on e-commerce sites or in-store, there is an abundance of brands to compete with.

Therefore, beers, wines and spirits brands must utilise their packaging as a marketing asset to evoke emotion within

This includes the use of QR code,

their consumer, drawing them to make a

augmented reality and virtual reality. For

purchase.

example, a consumer may scan a QR code on their phone and be taken to a

This includes creating labels with a

catalogue of other product options from

difference using aesthetically pleasing

the brand. Allowing brands to tell a story

design, eco-friendly materials, interactive

through their packaging and connect to

packaging and premium labels.

their customers digitally.

Our 100% digital print factory allows brands to order the labels that they need,

A premium label solution allows brands

when they need them.

to add embellishments to their labels.

A common issue within the industry

These include foiling, spot varnish and

surrounds warehousing and storage,

embossing/debossing to create a tactile,

however as digital print enables short

decorative label that aims to impress.

leads times and zero MOQs, brands

As this is a digital solution, it is also an

can be much more flexible with their

accessible one. Digitally embellished

packaging without the costly set up of

labels have no minimum order quantities,

traditional print.

no set up costs that come with traditional print, and short lead times. Meaning

These benefits also enable brands

brands can order the labels that they

to create seasonal product launches

need and receive them in a timely

without having to order more than they

manner in order to react to market trends

need or incur high costs for multiple print

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runs. Using variable data, one digital print run has the ability to print multiple label

To conclude, digital print remains an

sorts including personalised labels.

extremely flexible and versatile option for

Labels can also be printed onto

beers, wines and spirits brands to capture

sustainable label materials that enable

the attention of the consumer.

brands to be more eco-conscious.

Not only that, but it also enables a large

These options include wash off

factor of convenience for the brand itself,

adhesives, lower density materials and

enabling them to order the number

recycled fibres. These eco-friendly labels

of labels that they require, when they

allow brands to meet the consumer

require them in order to cut down on

demand for sustainability in every market.

large warehousing costs and enable

Innovative technology enables brands

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their packaging in a unique way.

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DISTILLERS JOURNAL

DISTILLERS L E C T U R E S

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distillersjournal.info/lectures INCLUDES LUNCH AND SPIRITS/BEER TASTING

COMMENT

DON’T FALL FOUL OF DISCHARGE REGULATIONS DISCHARGING YOUR DISTILLERY’S TREATED EFFLUENT INTO A NEARBY RIVER CAN BE COST-SAVING OPTION. BUT IF NOT DONE RIGHT, IT COULD END UP BE A COST-GENERATING OPTION.

T

here are two key factors

however. Some, particularly historic

and polishing may be required to satisfy

when designing appropriate

consents, may be overly generous in

this requirement.

effluent treatment: the

the context of the modern regulatory

u Flood risk. This might be self-

quality of the incoming

framework, while newer ones tend to

explanatory, but it is often overlooked

effluent and the required

have much more stringent conditions.

until an application lands on the regulator’s desk. If the discharge

quality for discharge, says Dr Phil Ham, managing director & principal

River quality continues to hit the

contributes to downstream flood risk,

hydrogeologist, Envireau Water

headlines and it’s fair to say that there

then this is a showstopper. And if you

In considering the latter, consideration

has been, and will continue to be, a

plan to do any engineering works in or

must be given to where the water will

continuous tightening of water quality

near a river, then don’t forget to check

be discharged. The easy option is to

related regulations in every one of our

what other consents, permits or licences

send water to the public sewer and let

devolved nations. This doesn’t just affect

you may need too to authorise the

the local water undertaker sort it out.

new applications. It also means anyone

construction works.

Unfortunately, this is probably the most

intending to make changes to existing

expensive option, and effluent charges

consents, be that in terms of volume,

Checking these points at an early stage

calculated using the Mogden Formula

locations of discharge points, and

will save at least one design iteration to

can be easily in excess of 50p/m3. Ouch!

certainly any significant changes to the

optimise the required treatment plant,

nature of treated effluent quality, is likely

and quite often a lot of time (& money)

Fortunately, or logically rather, most

to find themselves being more tightly

further down the road. Failure to do so

distilleries are located close to rivers.

regulated as a result.

may result in treatment systems being bought ‘off the shelf’, that may treat water

While the primary driver is a good supply of water for cooling, rivers also present

Since there isn’t a one-size-fits-

perfectly adequately, but not to the

an excellent opportunity to discharge

all approach to regulation, anyone

required standard for discharge to the

treated effluent from the distilling

designing, managing or trying to

local water environment.

process at a fraction of the cost. Doing

optimise effluent treatment plants must

so, however, requires a licence or permit

fully understand the criteria required

And lastly, allow plenty of time. There

to be granted from the relevant authority,

to discharge, and back engineer the

are statutory timeframes for determining

which will set out conditions designed

size and type of plant required. The key

discharge applications. I always say

to protect the biological and chemical

considerations to do this are:

allow yourself at least four months and

quality, and ecology of the receiving

u Flow in the river. Put simply, the

in complex cases, you should double it.

watercourse.

bigger the river, the more dilution. If the

This again highlights the importance of

discharge volume is small relative to the

understanding the relevant policies and

I won’t bore you with the vagaries

‘low flow’ condition in the river, then the

regulations to identify the acceptability

between the different regulations for

more acceptable it will be to discharge

of your proposed discharge, early in the

discharging water in Scotland, England

with limited treatment and conditions.

development process.

and Wales. If you are interested, then

u Status of the river. New discharges will

you can give me a call. What the

only be consented if they do not cause a

Envireau Water has 25 years’ experience

regulations have in common is that

deterioration in water quality, as defined

negotiating permits and licences in some

they all stem from the European Water

under the Water Framework Directive.

of the most sensitive catchments in the

Framework Directive and in broad terms

Effluent from distilleries is fairly benign

UK. If you are facing a regulatory hurdle

the objectives are therefore the same.

from a quality perspective, but if the

that you don’t know how to jump, then

I should stress that doesn’t mean that

receiving watercourse is already under

contact us to see how we can help.

all permits and licences are the same,

pressure, then a high level of treatment

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WINTER 2021

DISTILLERS JOURNAL

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WINTER 2021

DISTILLERS JOURNAL

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27

BIMBER DISTILLERY 28

|

I do think that Bimber came onto the market just at the right time” Matt McKay, Bimber Distillery

WINTER 2021

DISTILLERS JOURNAL

THE HOTTEST TICKET IN TOWN

IN THE TWO SHORT YEARS SINCE RELEASING THEIR FIRST EXPRESSIONS, LONDON-BASED BIMBER HAS BECOME ONE OF THE MOST TALKED-ABOUT NAMES IN WHISKY. FROM RELEASES SELLING OUT IN MINUTES TO THE SOUGHT-AFTER SPIRIT OF THE UNDERGROUND COLLABORATION WITH TRANSPORT FOR LONDON, THE DISTILLERY GOES FROM STRENGTH-TO-STRENGTH.

T

ime flies when you’re having

momentum with them as the distillery

with a journey that started in Poland and

fun. Like putting out a

has grown in the years that followed.

one that has seen it embrace and flourish in England’s capital.

top-selling debut album, or making your mark for

But let’s take a step back. The whisky

acting or directing your

world is markedly different than it was

Dariusz Plazewski is both the co-founder

first film. If you’re good enough, you’re

some 20 years ago. You can argue it is

of Bimber and its master distiller. And

good enough. It doesn’t matter how long

more welcoming, more accepting of

owing to his background, you could

you’ve been about.

different ideas, different perspectives

argue that opening a distillery was

and different expressions. And because

his true calling. Both his father and

And this applies to London-based

of this shift, distilleries such as Bimber,

grandfather had a history of moonshining,

distillery Bimber, too. They laid their first

founded by Ewelina Chruszczyk and

with ‘Bimber’ the Polish translation for

casks down on the 26th of May 2016

Dariusz Plazewski, have not only been

moonshine.

and went on to release their inaugural

able to launch onto the market, but thrive

single malt whisky three years later, in

in it as well.

of 1200 numbered bottles sold out in

Matt McKay is the head of marketing and

three hours, and they’ve carried that

communications at Bimber. A distillery

distillersjournal.info

“His father and grandfather were illicit distillers in communist-era Poland,” says

September of 2019. The limited release

McKay. “You’re talking about effectively

WINTER 2021

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29

BIMBER DISTILLERY distilling using very basic equipment.

to be founded at a point when seasoned

underground stops. “The Spirit of the

You’re using your sense of smell, touch

whisky drinkers, veterans or however you

Underground is very much a team effort

and taste. There were no automation or

want to describe them, are of a mindset

from the production team, making that

computers back then in the 1920s!”

that they do want to explore new spirit

amazing liquid of which we’ve selected,

styles. They want to see what’s coming

and we’ll select, what we think are our

It was from these family members

down the pipe, they want to broaden

best and most interesting casks through

Plazewski would learn those fundamental

their palates and broaden their tastes out.

to the design team, and then myself on

skills around distillation, particularly how

And yes, I think we’ve been riding, riding

looking at, what stations are we going to

you can utilise your senses to help make

that wave ever since over the last five

pick,” says McKay.

a quality spirit. And upon moving to

years.”

The project started with co-founder

London with wife and co-founder Ewelina Chruszczyk, Plazewski would soon make

For many, buying habits have changed

Plazewski looking for a way to celebrate

this passion professional.

over the last 18 months. When it comes

London, an idea McKay carried into a

to beverages such as beer, wine and

dialogue with TFL.

Starting his own carpentry engineering

whisky, people have been buying a

“I reached out to TFL and explained

firm enabled him to develop his love for

better quality product when they’ve not

our idea. To be honest, there wasn’t

building, and taking apart things, skills

been spending their money elsewhere.

much expectation seeing as the links

that would later prove invaluable in a

And McKay says he’s observed that in

between alcohol and transport are a

distillery build. Upon moving to the UK,

the demand for Bimber, with consumers

little bit fraught. But they were actually

Plazewski would soon discover another

continue to desire high quality spirits,

super receptive and it surprised us that

love in the form of Scotch whisky, and

regardless of the age of the distillery.

nobody had done it before,” he says. “It took nearly a year to get to the point of

what better way to combine these passions than to have a go at doing it

“Bimber launched its first whisky in the

releasing those first whiskies and there

yourself? So that’s exactly what they did.

autumn of 2019, so we’re not a distillery

are certain rules to operate under. It’s not

that has hundreds of years of history

like we can do promo shots of someone

The Bimber brand was initially

where we can compare it with the

enjoying a dram on an underground

established in 2015 before those first

pandemic period,” he says. “But during

train!”

casks were laid down in May of the

these last 18 months, we spent more

following year. Being such a young

time bottling during lockdown than not.

The initial releases to emerge from the

distillery, the Bimber team knew that in

Our whiskies invariably sell out in mere

Spirit of The Underground project, each

order to make their name, their whisky

minutes, thanks to strong interest from

aged in American oak ex-Bourbon casks

had to impress. But despite a level of

very passionate fans and that demand

were Waterloo (58.3% abv), Baker Street

trepidation, they had faith in the spirit

continued during lockdown.”

(58.1% abv), Kings Cross St Pancras (58.5% abv) and Oxford Circus (58.8% abv).

they had produced.

“There’s always trepidation from the

What did change over the last year

McKay smiles: “These whiskies reflect

distillery side, because you don’t know

though was the distillery’s production

the history and the significance of those

how any product is going to be received,”

supply line, resulting in some bottling

particular stations. But let’s be clear on

says McKay. “I do think however that

being pushed back due to supply issue.

one thing. There are a lot of stations on

Bimber came onto the market just at the

That, along with Bimber being closed to

the tube line and we have absolutely no

right time. I think if the distillery launched

visitors like all of their peers.

intention of doing them all. At the rate

20 years ago, the whisky market was a

McKay recalls: “The bottom line is we are

we’re producing them, by my calculation,

very different place.

all passionate whisky nerds, and we love

that would take 16 and a half years. That’s

“Then people were a little bit more boxed

sharing our whisky with other people.

a bit much, so for anyone interested in

in with what they wanted to experience.

“So from an emotional standpoint, not

that series, there’s definitely quite a lot

But what we’ve seen across all of whisky,

being able to invite people into the

more to come but it won’t be anywhere

not just scotch, not just English whisky,

distillery to share what we’re doing and

near every single tube station, least of all,

but across the whole world is a real

to show them how our processes are

because while some tube stations are

increased love of the spirit, a love of

different from others, that was pretty

fascinating, some of them aren’t!”

the stories behind it, its development,

tough.”

The expressions created for that project,

its variability, its characteristics and as a

One such project that has been incredibly

like all of which Bimber produce, are the

result, massive growth.”

popular for Bimber is The Spirit of the

result of the distillery’s in-house process.

Underground Collection. A collaboration

And that’s one that focus on quality, and

Whisky, as McKay explains, has grown in

between Transport for London and

to focus on quality takes time.

measurably as an industry over the past

Bimber celebrating one of the great

20 years and a distillery like Bimber is

engineering projects of the past 200

This journey starts in Hampshire at a farm

right at the top of that wave

years. Just don’t expect the distillery to

called Fordham & Allen. Fordham & Allen,

He adds: “I think we were very fortunate

be able to celebrate each of the capital’s

as McKay says, provide all of Bimber’s

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DISTILLERS JOURNAL

BIMBER DISTILLERY barley needs. They’re growing Concerto

that we’re looking from those grains.”

don’t completely clean it down. And

and Laureate, and while Bimber has been

Out of the mash tun, that water is then

because they are open topped, that

distilling using Concerto so far they, like

cooled down because otherwise it would

promotes a secondary malolactic

a lot of distilleries, will shortly be moving

be too hot to apply yeast to inoculate

fermentation from the bacteria and wild

over to Laureate as the Concerto strain

it. Bimber pump it across the distillery

yeast in the air.”

loses its efficacy.

floor of the distillery is really quite small.

And so unlike a lot of Scottish distilleries,

The reason Bimber does this is to further

From there the barley is moved over to

where your tour guide might say hey,

develop esters within that wash. Their

Warminster Maltings. It’s Britain’s oldest

follow this pipe work and you go down a

fundamental belief with distilling is that

maltser, who hold two floors, dedicated

corridor and then round into a room and

the actual distillation is simply reinforcing

to malting all of Bimber’s grains.

then up a ceiling and around.

the flavours that you’ve created in fermentation.

He explains: “The grains are specified to our needs and everything about the

At Bimber if you stand the middle of a

“That’s our belief,” he says. “So it’s not

production process at Bimber really

distillery floor, you can rotate 360 and

something to rush, we could easily do

eschews, and takes a different route to

see everything. There is pipe that they

twice as many ferments if we cut that

a lot of distilleries that you’re going to

bend over the top of the roof and then

down. But then the profile of that wash

see that have been founded a long time

pump that with cooled wash into seven,

would be completely different.”

where yield is their primary concern. A

custom-made fermenters.

lot of our concern, and our focus is on on

He says: “Those were installed a few

The one thing that they are very

quality.

years ago. We were originally using

concerned about and keep a watchful

“And we believe that quality takes time.

eye on though whilst running fermenters

So rather than milling that grain, we don’t

that have a bit dirty and open top is

mill it at all. Instead, the grain is cracked.

temperature. If you let your temperature

And we do that to preserve the husk

variate to wildly, at best, you’re going

of the grain, which brings with it cereal

to end up with inconsistency and at

character.

worst, you’re just going to end up with a

“But then it also ensures that we’re only unlocking as much of the convertible starch as we need, we don’t want our wort to be too floury, we want it to be just right for our production process.”

Fordham & Allen delivers to the distillery once a week. As Bimber don’t have any silos, they can’t store it for any length of time. So that relationship is based around the quality of the grain from that

Bimber really eschews and takes a different route to a lot of distilleries” Matt McKay, Bimber Distillery

massive infection. A temperature control unit for each of those seven washbacks, which runs down a plate on the inside of each of the vessels, and it keeps them to a constant 26 to 28 degrees at all times.

“Whether it’s cold, we need to heat them up, or wherever it’s bloody hot in the summer, we need to cool them down,” says McKay. So that ferment is always kept within those confines to ensure both consistency and that it doesn’t go over the edge.”

particular region of England, but also that relationship that they have, they can keep supplying everything Bimber need, if and

steel as our fermenters. But we’re quite

From there Bimber run two Portuguese

when they grow. Just on a weekly basis.

fortunate that our master distiller owns

Alembic stills at 1000 litres, which were

The next part of the process, is mashing,

a carpentry firm. And so what we did

constructed by Porto-based Hoga.

the Bimber way. Mashing is fairly

was we use the skills those carpenters

McKay explains: “They’re really fantastic,

standard to a lot of distilleries, but they

to build seven, one for each day of the

if you’re making small craft whisky and

have one distinction in that they only

week, American oak, lightly toasted

they’ve been converted to our spec. So

sparge the grain twice. A lot of distilleries

open-topped washbacks. That’s quite a

what we’ve done because effectively,

will do a final particularly hot sparge to

mouthful.

we’re making a slightly dirty wash.

And because we’re using direct fire on

get the last of the locked in convertible sugars out of the grain bed, but Bimber

“But effectively what we’re talking about

those stills, which burns in the heavier

don’t do that.

is we’re running our ferment for 168

compounds into the bottom of the steel

“The reason that we don’t do that is

hours, a seven-day firm. Once the initial

creating texture.

we simply do not need that additional

yeast, which is a combination of distiller’s

“Because that spirit is naturally heavier.

convertible sugar to make the wash that

and baker’s yeast, has died down after

we’ve converted the stills to promote

we require,” says McKay. “And we’re all

four days, because those wash backs are

an even larger volume of copper for

about not pushing yield at the expense of

a little bit dirty frankly.

reflux, which will strip out some of those

flavour. So we only apply as much water

“The oak inside is lightly toasted, so it will

compounds that are not necessarily

as we need to create the flavour base

have bacteria in it and we deliberately

either desirable or tasty in your whisky.

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BIMBER DISTILLERY

“The Bimber spirit is a product of a long,

much of the industry although some,

is working with.

fruity but dirty fermentation, a long but

McKay adds, play with that upwards and

“We are increasingly experimenting with

fairly ferocious, direct fire burn producing

downwards. Something they don’t.

things such as beer casks, working with London-based Brew By Numbers, where

texture, but then some really sharp cut points. We throw away of heads, so you

Bimber fill into a growing variety of cask

we’re doing a cask exchange in which

end up with this juxtaposition spirit that

types, mainly American white oak ex-

we send them whisky casks and they fill

has an awful lot of body, an awful lot of

bourbon casks. A lot of those originally

them with, at the moment, stout and then

fruity character and depth, but is naturally

were first fill but as they’re now growing

they disgorge, send the barrels back,” he

quite clean and sharp.”

and developing, they empty barrels out

says.

And it’s only through the combination

to make whisky and then refill them,

“And then we have some of those barrels

of those processes, McKay explains, on

ending up with barrels that are second

that we filled with new make spirit for

the one side using direct fire, running a

fill, also known as refill, where the level of

a full-term Imperial stout finish and

long ferment firm and but on the other

the activity in the barrel is lower, but that

some that we’re just using for finishing

side, ensuring really tight cuts, all of

means the distiller can leave that whisky

effectively for moving, probably ex-

which are done by hand as there’s no

for longer.

bourbon whisky in and then imparting that imperial stout flavour over four to

computerization in the distillery at all. It’s simply done on taste smell, and they’re

Resulting in a rather different profile

six months to to give that whisky that

measuring the ABV of that spirit to ensure

between the sort of spicy wood-forward

originally had a defined ex-bourbon

that it’s within the confines.

first fill, and then the calmer, longer

profile, some of those more dark malt,

and slower refill, McKay tells us. When

chocolate malt, sweet and heavier

And now, we’re nearly at the point of

it comes to casks, the distillery have a

flavours.”

starting to make the whisky. The spirit

selection of different Sherrys which is

runs off the stills, once it’s been through

growing. Starting initially with Oloroso

Through such partnerships, McKay

the wash and then a second distillation in

and PX but expanded to include Fino,

considers Bimber as something of a

the spirit, which comes off at 72% ABV.

Amontillado and Manzanilla among other

“strange” distillery, one that is fully-

They then rectify it downwards to 63.5%,

more oxidative Sherry such as Moscatel.

focused on traditional methods that take

a fairly standard filling strength for

But it’s not just sherry producers Bimber

a lot of time but also one that isn’t afraid

distillersjournal.info

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BIMBER DISTILLERY

Bimber Distillery in London has made its name early on through a committment to quality, even if that takes longer to acheive it

to experiment both with their casking,

of the grain that we want. And by working

using traditional methods and the team’s

and finishing, but also with their brand

with that farm, and by processing it in

passion for whisky.

propositions and they work with.

the way we do on the malting floor, only

“We want to be seen as an innovative,

crushing it, not milling it, that is what

“So the fact that the distillery does

forward-looking and a fairly-open

defines that early stage of that Bimber

change, and you will see those changes

distillery,” he says. “You know, there’s

process.”

if you try a bottle that’s cask number before 110 that would have been made

no secrets, you can come and visit. I encourage you to do so, and unlike a lot

He adds: “Equally, in addition to that, if we

on the old washbacks if you try them

of distilleries, you can ask us anything,

changed any part of our whisky making

now, the profile similar but the fruitiness

and you can take photos of whatever you

process be that the spec of the grain,

from those wooden washbacks is quite

like.”

how long we sparge for, how long we

different,” he says.

ferment with, the type of yeast, the still Depending on when you visit, there’s a

set up any part if you change any part

“And not only are we okay with that we

good chance Bimber will have upgraded

of your plant, the profile of your whisky

look for that. We feel that we are on a

and updated its kit to further enhance

will change. And we’ve certainly found

journey and we are still learning. Any

production. But the one constant,

that Bimber has not rested on his laurels.

distillery that says ‘we’ve mastered it all’

McKay explains, is the commitment to

The mash tun is not the original mash

then I don’t think so. You know, we’re

utilising the highest quality ingredients.

tun, the fermenters were not the original

always learning, always looking for the

That, and a refusal to compromise on

fermenters, the way the stills have

next thing and asking how can we make

the distillery’s values. “Grain is super

operated has slightly been changed over

this better?”

important. The quality and the properties

the years.

McKay concludes: “That’s not change for

of that grain, and where it’s grown, are all fundamentally going to affect the

And for you know, big distilleries who

change sake, but the more that we can

eventual flavour of that whisky, he says.

are making, and using quite a lot of skill

refine our whisky-making process, the

“It’s really, really important, particularly for

I’ll add, a product that has consistency

more the more we can surprise people

a small distillery, a lot of big distilleries,

across hundreds of thousands of

and say, ‘Wow, I thought I knew Bimber

they’re reliant on the volume of grain, you

bottles, potentially over decades. That’s

but now I’ve just tried this’ is a good thing.

know, how much can you get me, we’re

impressive, but we’re not about that.

“We just love to raise eyebrows and as

not.

That’s not what we’re doing.”

long as the quality is great then yes,

“And so because we’re not, that allows us

Instead Bimber, as McKay explains, is

change is good.”

to be really specific in exactly that spec

about creating the best whisky they can

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DISTILLERS JOURNAL

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Service & Maintenance

HARD SELTZER

THE BEVERAGE TREND WITH A FIZZ

THE RETURN TO NORMALITY POST LOCKDOWN IN THE UK IS BRINGING A NEW TREND IN THE ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGE CATEGORY. AS HARD SELTZER SALES CONTINUE TO CLIMB IN THE UK, YOU MAY HAVE NOTICED THAT THEY ARE EVEN GETTING THEIR OWN SECTION ON SUPERMARKET SHELVES MAKING NOW A GREAT TIME TO TAP IN ON THIS TREND, EXPLAINS DR STEPHANIE BRINDLEY FROM MURPHY & SON.

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T

he benefits of hard seltzer

and invert sugar are some of the sources

are not only restricted to the

of sugar used in hard seltzer production.

low calories option it offers

In contrast to a malt wort fermentation,

to the consumers.

a sugar fermentation lacks the nutrients

The global hard seltzer

(particularly free amino nitrogen), which

sales already valued to be in the region

helps strengthen yeast cell wall and

of US$4.4Bn in 2019 is projected to

prepare them for the fermentation

increase between 2020 to 2027 at a

process.

16.2% compound annual growth rate. This suggests a lucrative option for craft and

The absence of certain vitamins, minerals

large scale brewers looking to capitalise

and amino acids also contribute to

on this demand.

the relatively slow, sluggish or stuck fermentation.

WHAT IS HARD SELTZER?

The occurrence of off flavours and

Hard seltzer also known as alcoholic

sulfuric aromas can also be associated

seltzer or hard sparkling water, is simply

with this process if it were to run into

carbonated water, alcohol and flavouring.

issues associated with nutrient deficiency.

The rapid growth of hard seltzer

Hence, the choice of an external nutrient

emanates from its wide variety of flavours

source is pivotal in the hard seltzer

coupled with the publics’ impression of

fermentation process.

a healthier alcoholic beverage (usually

The choice of yeast also depends on

around 100 calories per can).

the brewer’s preference. EC1118 remains the most preferred due to the fast

The flavouring depends on the seltzer

fermentation rate, high ethanol tolerance

brand and can cater for a wide range

and the clean, clear organoleptic profile

of preferences. Different strategies are

it produces.

adopted during hard seltzer production.

Some distilling yeasts also make for a

This can depend on the manufacturers

good choice if aiming for higher ethanol

preference.

yields. It is worth experimenting with

Some may choose to spike carbonated

other strains, especially when producing

water with a distilled alcohol such as

seltzers around the 4-5% ABV mark, to

vodka, while others are looking to

see what flavours can be achieved.

craft their own from scratch with sugar fermentations.

ENABLING THE TREND

Similar to other alcoholic beverages such

The Murphy and Son Just Add Sugar kit

as beer, wine, cider etc, the fundamental

is a combination of nitrogen, vitamins,

distinguishing property of the latter

amino acids, yeast extract, and trace

version of these hard seltzers is the

elements optimised to aid yeast growth

fermentation process.

during the fermentation of sugar solutions.

Hard seltzer fermentation process

Just Add Sugar is formulated to provide

involves the fermentation of sugar to

the building blocks required for healthy

produce a neutral alcohol base.

yeast. The Just Add Sugar kit also comes

The wide range of sugar available as

with a buffer adapted to maintain a

yeast food in the production of hard

constant intracellular pH in yeast during

seltzer contributes to the differences

sugar fermentation whilst decreasing the

between each hard seltzer variety. Cane

inhibitory effect of organic acids on yeast

sugar, honey, agave, dextrose, sucrose,

growth.

DISTILLERS JOURNAL

HARD SELTZER

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HARD SELTZER Left top and bottom, Lab trial fermentation plot showing pH, ABV and gravity across the five days of fermentation.

range for yeast fermentation but also allows for the addition of acidic flavours further down the process without the final product getting too acidic.

Based on the data from the trials, the fermentations were fully attenuated after five days. The gravity dropped significantly upon the utilisation of sugar by the yeast throughout the fermentation process.

The phases of yeast growth could be spotted on the graph with a lag phase in the first two days and a steady log phase between day 2 and day 4.

The stationary phase of yeast growth, The salt magnesium sulphate (MagSul)

were added (an important step to avoid

as seen, is preceded by attenuation

forms the 3rd component of the Just

the denaturing of the product).

in fermentation resulting in the clean

Add Sugar kit. This provides the essential

The sugar solution was cooled further

alcoholic produce at the target ABV.

cofactor needed for glycolysis.

before transfer to the fermentation vessel

The combination of each Murphy and

(FV). Yeast was added following the

Based on the result, it can be concluded

Son Just Add Sugar kit component in the

transfer of sugar wash to FV.

that the nutrient had good properties for fermenting a nutrient-poor media

advised doses provide all the necessary elements for a successful sugar

PRODUCTION RESULTS

such as that used for the hard seltzer

fermentation.

Graphs of fermentation 1 and 2 above

fermentation.

Following laboratory trials, Just Add

show the pH, ABV and Gravity readings

Sugar formulation was prepared for a

for the completed 5.12 and 5.25 %

Murphy and Son Just Add Sugar

commercial production trial at a brewery.

ABV hard seltzers, respectively. Both

nutrient can also successfully achieve a

The initial sugar wash was carried out

fermentations attenuated with a pH

fermented sugar base for higher %ABV

using granulated cane sugar (50kg) and

above 4.0. (Fermentation 1 ended at 4.23,

targets so that a more concentrated

water (600litre).

and Fermentation 2 ended at 4.23).

version can be made and liquored back

Gravity of sugar wash was constantly

The final gravity was 0.995 and

This ability to successfully ferment high

monitored to ensure target OG was met

0.994, respectively. The fermentation

gravity sugar washes will also appeal

(1.30-1.35). The sugar solution was boiled

progressed well and created a base with

to sugar-based spirits and other sugar-

for ≈15 minutes and allowed to cool

the required properties.

based alcoholic beverages.

slightly before Just Add Sugar nutrients

This pH allows for both an optimum

later.

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DISTILLERS JOURNAL

bring forth the

flavour hard seltzers y made eas

Just Add Sugar - Yeast Nutrient Yeah, you heard that right! Alcoholic sparkling water made in your brewery. Murphy & Son’s NEW yeast nutrient ‘Just Add Sugar’ can be used to take your sugar wash from basic to bursting with flavour, achieving up to 12% abv in just 5 days.

Want to know more? Call our team on 01159 785 494 or visit murphyandson.co.uk

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M U N T O N S P L C C E D A R S M A LT I N G S S T O W M A R K E T I P 1 4 2 A G

UK

I

M A LT E X T R A C T S

RUM IS NOT THE NEW GIN

UM

UK CRAFT RUM PRODUCERS FROM JERSEY TO SCOTLAND ARE CREATING PREMIUM SPIRITS THAT CAN RIVAL THE BEST OF THE CARIBBEAN IN TASTE AND QUALITY. BEATING THEM IN VOLUME, HOWEVER, IS A VERY DIFFERENT STORY. VELO MITROVICH REPORTS

distillersjournal.info

I

n looking back over the past

growth across all spirits during lockdown.

two years, if you were holding

In the three months from April to June

your breath waiting for all rum

2020, 38% more rum was sold than in the

predictions to come true, you’d be

same period in 2019, equating to an extra

long dead.

1.3 million bottles sold. Total rum sales

Forget gin, they said, everyone was

were worth £119 million in the quarter

going to be drinking rum. All those 400+

alone.

gin distilleries in the UK? Craft gin folks would be switching over to rum if they

Over the last 12 months rum has enjoyed

were smart.

8% volume gains and is now worth £430

It was going to be a rum-rum world with

million, placing it behind only whiskies,

the only question being: Is it going to be

vodkas and gins in value terms.

white, gold, dark, aged, or spiced rum

And rising upwards with this trend are

the world is drinking?

UK rum distillers – oh…if only it was that

According to a 2020 report by

simple.

Sainsbury’s, rum was pegged to take

When comparing rum to gin, it’s like

over gin as the UK’s new spirits favourite,

comparing chalk to cheese, apples

based on the supermarket seeing

to oranges, or to any other similar

an impressive 39% increase in sales

expressions out there. They’re not the

compared to all other spirits sales.

same spirit; they’re not even close to

Sainsbury’s external Spirits expert, Tom

being the same spirit.

Sandham, said: “Gin lured countless drinkers away from vodka, with notorious

With UK gin, there has never been

classics like the Negroni flourishing as

serious competition from imports. UK

drinkers craved punchy new botanical

drinkers drink UK-produced gin, be it

flavours. Now gin drinkers are turning

made-to-the-standards London Dry Gin

towards rum for the same reason, as it’s

or cotton candy flavoured gin liquor. As

the ideal stepping-stone drink into aged

frustrating as some find the UK’s Gin

spirits: not too bitter, and lovely mixed or

Guild, its demand for exact standards

neat.”

have helped make British gin a world

Miles Beale, CEO of the Wine & Spirit

export leader.

Trade Association (WSTA), crowned rum

With rum, there are more competitors

the “drink of lockdown”, as WSTA’s figures

than you might imagine. Worldwide

showed that rum enjoyed the biggest

there are at least 62 countries with rum

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RUM

Rum has always been an imported spirit and will continue to be so for the conceivable future

production and in the USA, 25 states

whey. And almost every gin distiller –

that could be an extra chapter in Joseph

make rum. While you would think that a

including most medium-sized players

Heller’s ‘Catch-22’.

rum from the Caribbean region – such

and above – buy in their base spirit.

And, perhaps one of the biggest hurdles

as Bacardi – would be the world’s leader

rum production has to contend with in

in far as volume, it’s actually Tanduay

Rum has always been an imported

the UK, there is not a tradition of making

rum made in the Philippines. In 2017 it

spirit and will continue to be so for the

rum here. In fact, it’s only been about

knocked Bacardi off its top-dog spot

conceivable future. On this grey, cold,

10-years since the first bottle of 100%

and hasn’t looked back. In examining

wet island we call home, rum sings to us

UK-produced rum was bottled by English

the world’s top 12 rum producers and

of warm seas, palm trees, and tropical

Spirit in the north Essex countryside.

growth from over the last five years, by

nights. The second you put ‘Made in the

far this brand has shown the strongest,

UK’ on your bottle of rum, you’re starting

Dr John Walters got a crazy idea in

consistent growth.

to fight an uphill battle.

2009 when looking at some grapes on

And the fight begins within the ranks

his property, he thought: “I bet I could

Where can you buy this orangish

of UK rum distillers. While some bring

distil these.” After two years of climbing

coloured rum? Tanduay says that it is the

in basic white rum from the Caribbean,

a Mt Everest of HMRC regulations, he

best kept secret in Asia. That might be

redistill it with their own flavourings and

launched English Spirit in 2011. It was

true. You actually have a better chance

call it British rum, this is not a popular

the first-time rum was distilled here

finding it in North Korea than in the UK.

decision with those British rum distillers

completely from scratch.

However, the company says that starting

who do all the steps starting with either

this year it will be starting an aggressive

molasses or cane sugar.

expansion campaign. Currently in Europe,

Today, English Spirit is the UK’s largest craft rum distiller and getting ready to

Tanduay can only be found in Belgium,

There have been several attempts by

become ever larger with a new distillery

the Netherlands and Luxembourg. This

regional rum distillers to have standards

and visitors’ centre opening in Cornwall.

will soon be changing.

associated with the name. For example,

Besides looking at English Spirit’s new

if you call your rum ‘Scottish rum’, you

developments, we’ll also be looking

For craft distillers, gin was always going

will have to distil it in Scotland from

at Scotland’s Old Mother Hunt Rum

to be easier to make than rum. While

molasses. Creating these standards,

distillery, which is at the opposite end of

pubs, hotels and even cruise liners now

however, have yet to pan out.

the spectrum when it comes to physical

have their own gin distilleries, that will

As far as HMRC regulations go, as long

size. How small is this commercial rum

never happen with rum. Gin drinkers don’t

as you don’t make your base spirit,

distillery? Rebecca Hunt tells Distillers

bat an eye at the idea that the base spirit

getting a gin re-distillers license is fairly

that she is looking into getting official

was not only bought from someone else,

easy as is the same for rum. If, however,

Guinness Records recognition as the

but that it could be made of anything

you do all the distilling processes in rum

smallest UK rum distiller.

from grains to potatoes to even dairy

production, get ready for requirements

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NGLISH SPIRIT

GROWING A RUM DISTILLERY

THE FATHER OF ENGLISH RUM IS GETTING READY TO OPEN A SECOND DISTILLERY IN CORNWALL. FASTEN YOUR SEAT BELT CAUSE THINGS ARE GOING TO GET A BIT CRAZY. VELO MITROVICH REPORTS

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I

t was a different world when we

offerings were bland, at least they were

last talked to Dr John Walters at

consistently bland.

the UK’s first and largest rum craft

If your niche was craft and quality with

distillery, English Spirit. It was 2019

the accompanying expense, you were

– just a month before Christmas

about to face a tough time. For most,

– and the distillery was going full speed –

growth and expansion plans were put on

like a Santa’s workshop for adults.

hold or discarded completely. For English

A long row of 20 200-litre copper alembic

Spirit, however, it was like those words

stills – all designed by biochemist and

didn’t exist.

master distiller Walters – were bubbling and gurgling away inside a 200-year-old

In 2011, English Spirit was desperately

structure called the Black Barn. Despite it

trying to produce 120 bottles of spirits

being a cold day outside and there were

a week. In January 2020, the team was

holes everywhere in the barn’s roof and

producing just shy of 2 million bottles

sides, inside the Black Barn it was warm,

annually – with about 65% of that going to

and the air was filled with the smell of

contract distilling for a variety of clients.

molasses and spiced rum. If you could

It had around 14 core lines – such as gin,

say that Christmas was in the air, it was

vodka, rum, brandy, eau-de-vie, single

there at Great Yeldham Hall in the north

malt spirit, liqueurs, English sambuca

Essex countryside.

and cucumber spirit – and was doing 10

Walters was leaving later that day to drive

to 20 special editions a year, such as the

to Cornwall to check specifics for the new

popular Strawberry Rum Liqueur.

distillery that was being built at historic

But, English Spirit figured it could move

Treguddick Manor, near Launceston.

double the amount of spirits, if there was

At that stage there was a considerable

only a way to produce it. It was decided

amount of work remaining and final

that the existing distillery would be kept

permits had not yet been approved. Still,

in Essex, while a new distillery would be

how could anything derail this state-of-

built somewhere in England. In scouting

art distillery. In fact, according to one

out locations, Treguddick Manor ticked all

local press, there was even talk of a very

the boxes.

optimistic opening of Spring 2020, just four months away.

Although it sits in the heart of the rolling Cornish countryside, it is less than a

WHAT COULD GO WRONG?

minute’s drive from the A30. In a normal

For many UK distilleries, breweries and

year, more than 15 million visitors pass

those working in the hospitality industry,

this way going into North Cornwall.

it’s now almost hard remembering

There was room for a 2,500-litre copper

what pre-pandemic days were like.

still – that was to be engineered by

While before punters were willing to

Walters – proper aging warehouses, a

experiment with different brands in a pub,

restaurant, a visitors’ centre, geodesic

now faced with spending £30 or more

domes to grow botanicals for gin and

for an unknown bottle at a supermarket

other spirits – everything.

or online, they went with much cheaper

For Walters, there was a manor house

major players who, even if their

dating back to around 1500, with part of

DISTILLERS JOURNAL

RUM

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46

it going back to 1250. This made the

the base liquid used for hand sanitiser,

lights on at numerous distilleries and

16th century manor house at Great

making around 120,000 litres of it, which

breweries, it was more work than many

Yeldham Hall seem like a new-build.

was a rapid – but good shift – for the

imagine. If before you had one individual

Then in March, all things changed.

distillery, says Walters, who adds that it

buying thousands of litres from you, you

“Even though we didn’t have

was this time that internet sales shot up

now had to sell to a lot of individuals to

complete exposure to the license,

as people were remaining indoors.

get anywhere near the same volumes.

trade and hospitality industries, we

“We found previously, we’d done okay

Each of those individual orders, too, takes

had significant contract customers

online, but it was not great asset. Then it

time from the second they arrive online,

who did. As a result of that, things

developed into a totally different world

to packaging and shipping as the product

went on pause,” says Walters.

for us,” he says.

leaves.

English Spirt started producing

While going online helped to keep the

Online sales helped English Spirit stay

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DISTILLERS JOURNAL

profitable and keep staff on a minimum

turned into an ‘if’ situation. Even at the

go for a gentle opening in October,

furlough. But, according to Walters, there

height of the pandemic, there was never

one where we still got quite a vibrant

was a side benefit as well. At Yeldham

any question about it not opening, the

tourist trade down in Cornwall.”

– and what is expected at Treguddick

project just slowed down.

But suddenly there was a threat to

– it is planned that the distilleries will

“We managed to keep the whole

that date and indeed, a threat to the

have much more direct contact with

development of the project at Treguddick

distillery ever opening. With what had

the end consumer and direct sales. The

going forward, which was quite taxing,

seemed like a done-deal, there were

pandemic forced the distillery to take

it took a lot of resources and a lot of

now problems with the last planning

steps that it wanted to take all along.

focus,” says Walters. “We intended to

stage, leaving Walters wondering

In speaking with Walters, you soon

open in July of this year, but because

if final approval was really going

realise that opening up Treguddick never

it was so uncertain, that we decided to

through.

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RUM

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RUM Walters says it became very apparent that there was local opposition, based not on the idea of a distillery opening, but because “you’re not from around these parts”.

“There is a lot of that here, a hell of a lot of that. There’s no thought for jobs, for the local economy, and what you’re going to be contributing. It’s just that you’re not from around here,” says Walters. He had no idea what the outcome would be until the planning officer got up to address the crowd.

“I just like to tell y’all, you don’t have a legal position to object to this application.

And if you turn it down, he’ll take it to court, we will pay the costs, and it’ll still go through.” The application passed.

BECOMING A CONTRACTOR Because English Spirit is not a big

between each of those storage units.

where its coming from, there are just so many questions you don’t know the

distillery, Walters says they couldn’t afford large contractors; it would have

“It’s going to mean some amazing things.

answer to,” says Walters. “There may be a

come in twice or even two-and-a-

The first is that we’re going to have more

really strong rationale for it because you

half-times the total amount of money

capacity, which is great. One of the

love those flavours and there is nothing

planned.

reasons why we need to overproduce is,

wrong with that. But don’t say what it

“We had to take it over, manage it, and

in thinking long term business growth,

isn’t.”

we’ve built every piece of woodwork

we are going into the maturation of dark

in the building, it’s all been done by us.

spirits – because we are the father of

Back in the 1950s through 1980s in the

It’s been quite exciting, we’ve been a

British rum.” With that thought in mind,

States, big department stores that no

commercial developer for 18 months, as

English Spirit will start laying down

longer exist would put out Christmas

well as radically growing and changing

significant stocks of cask rum to start

catalogues, some like from Sears could

the way that we approach our delivery

its aging programme. While Walters

easily be 150-200 pages. Kids would

business. Yes, it’s been very exciting.”

believes he is too far south to say the ‘W’

stare endlessly at them, writing down

word, aged English whisky is also in the

Santa lists, crossing things out, and

Would he do it again?

works.

adding others.

“It was quite a fascinating experience,

UK RUM STANDARDS

Spirit and in particular what the new

but no, I wouldn’t want to be doing that

Walters believes at the end of the day if a

distillery will bring, John Waters eyes light

again,” he says.

consumer is going to spend 30,40 or 50

up the same as these kids thinking about

What gets Walters excited is the potential

pounds on a bottle of your rum, it should

Christmas.

of what the space of Treguddick will bring

stand for something. One of those is, if

The bar at Treguddick Manor will have

to English Spirit.

it says UK, British, Scottish, English or

over 40 spirits for people to try, spirits

“At Yeldham we had very, very tight

Welsh rum on the bottle, it needs to be

not available online or in shops. This will

space constraints. So, the idea of ‘where

actually made here, just not blended.

include aperitifs, different fruit brandies,

do we put 5,000 barrels’ wasn’t going

“If it’s British or it claims to be coming

whiskies, gins, and a course, rums, all

to happen. On one side we’ve got the

from somewhere in the in the UK Isles,

experiments that the biochemist is just

village, the other side we’ve got the

can we please do the whole job. Let’s

dying to experiment with and try. “If you

church, we’ve got the lake, and then

ferment; let’s distil; let’s mature; and let’s

use this sort of wine cask to age the rum

we’ve got a farmer,” he says.

bottle here.” Bringing in someone else’s

in and them move it into this one, while

“Here at Treguddick, we’ve got two

rum, blending it here and adding some

all the while changing the warehouse

separate titles. The manor house has its

local botanicals does not make it British

temperature….” As you say goodbye, you

own ground and then we have a separate

rum, he says.

don’t have the heart to tell Dr John that a

three-and-a-half-acre distillery site.

“I don’t think it does anybody any good

day only has 24 hours.

We can happily put maturation units at

because, come on guys, you’d get a lot

different temperatures, different humidity,

more satisfaction out of fermenting it. You

For more on English Spirit, be sure to listen

and start storing spirits and moving them

don’t know how that rum’s been made,

to Distillers Journal podcast.

When asked about the future of English

distillersjournal.info

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Give your brand a label identity that matches its great taste www.opmgroup.co.uk

OPM (Labels & Packaging) Group Limited The Colour Box, Gelderd Road, Leeds, LS12 6TG

ASK A BARTENDER

ASK A BARTENDER ABOUT: RUM

IN TRYING TO FIGURE OUT THE NEXT BIG THING, YOU CAN TALK TO DISTILLERS OR YOU CAN TALK TO THOSE POURING FOR CUSTOMERS, BARTENDERS. PICK A QUIET NIGHT, PULL UP A STOOL, AND FIND OUT WHAT PEOPLE ARE DRINKING. THIS ROUND, WE ASK AWARD-WINNING BARTENDER CARL ANTHONY BROWN ABOUT RUM

distillersjournal.info

W

e talk about

and pick up a cheap, poor quality rum –

different drinks

people are so much more aware. People

having their

are starting to care more and are taking

moment and being

more time to pick something special.

on trend, but in my

“It’s funny, we assume we have become

opinion, rum isn’t going to be the next big

more sophisticated with our drink

thing for this reason,” says Carl Anthony

choices. But, if we go back to the 1930s,

Brown, award winning bartender. “Rum

people were a lot savvier with spirits.

is simply not a fad that will fade in

People understand where drinks came

popularity, it’s something that is a staple

from, but this education has been lost.

and it’s a staple for a reason.

There is the classic Burke’s cocktail

“Compared to other spirits such as vodka

book from 1936 that features rums from

or gin, rum has a depth of flavour and

specific regions.

intensity, which means it’s not going to be

“Rum can taste very different depending

suitable for all palates.

on where it is made, a Barbados rum will

“If I was pushed towards a rum trend, I

be different to a Cuban rum,” he says.

would say that perhaps a derivative could

As many bartenders say, their choice

break away and become a stand-alone

for a rum drink is a daiquiri cocktail. Not

drink – for example, botanical rums. But I

what a daiquiri has become in the eyes of

can’t see this being long term.

most, but what a daiquiri used to be.

The daiquiri was supposedly invented

“If I was going to see a change in

by an American mining engineer named

direction with rum consumption it would

Jennings Cox, who was in Cuba at the

be in terms of quality. I think gone are the

time of the Spanish–American War in

days when people go to the supermarket

1898.

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RUM

If I was going to see a change in direction with rum consumption it would be in terms of quality.”

Carl Anthony Brown

Originally the drink was served in a

an adult frozen smoothie for those

tall glass packed with cracked ice. A

thinking they are always on holiday. But,

teaspoon of sugar was poured over the

thanks to proper bartenders and fans, the

ice and the juice of one or two limes was

daiquiri is making a strong comeback.

squeezed over the sugar. Two or three ounces of white rum completed the

“If I’m drinking rum, I’m drinking a daiquiri

mixture. The glass was then frosted by

– I like a classic. I’d use El Dorado rum,

stirring with a long-handled spoon. Later

it’s heaven, made on the banks of the

the daiquiri evolved to be mixed in a

Demerara River in Guyana where they’ve

shaker with the same ingredients but with

been making rum for over 300-years. I

shaved ice. After a thorough shaking, it

mix the rum with a little lime juice and

was poured into a chilled coupe glass.

Demerara sugar syrup. Perfect.”

Carl Anthony Brown, is an award-winning

Consumption of the drink remained

bartender, mixologist and TV drink’s

localized until 1909, when a US Navy

expert. Some of Carl’s accolades include

medical officer tried Cox’s drink and

winner of ‘The Young British Foodies’,

introduced it to the States where it

IMBIBE ‘Drinks List of the Year and many

became a favourite over the space of a

more. He’s worked for 17 years in the bar

few decades. It was one of the favourite

and drinks industry, including creating

drinks of writer Ernest Hemingway –

the drinks concept across the Dishoom

who is rumoured to have put away 15 at

group. His latest venture has been

one sitting – and US President John F.

launching the alcohol-free spirit, Crossip

Kennedy.

in 2020.

Somehow in the 1960s and 70s, the

He is best described as a man who is

classic daiquiri lost its way and became

seldom without an opinion.

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DISTILLERS JOURNAL

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OLD MOTHER HUNT

MOTHER

KNOWS BEST

WHAT DO YOU DO WHEN LIFE THROWS YOU A CURVE BALL, YOU MAKE RUM. VELO MITROVICH REPORTS

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P

eople go into making spirits

grab any and all hours offered. And the

for a variety of reasons.

perks? Big airlines might have a crew

For some, especially in

lounge at airports. For the rest, the same

the whisky industry, it is a

uncomfortable terminal seats you sit on

family tradition, or the local

are their lounge as well.

distillery is the largest employer in the

For Rebecca, with two small children,

area. You either work for the distillery, in

Matt’s varying hours made it impossible

a support industry, or you move to where

for her to find work. But she knew how

there are other life opportunities.

much Matt loved to fly, what pinning on

Many, too, in whisky, follow a more

those gold wings meant to him every

traditional path of either learning on the

day. She supported him fully.

job and working their way up the food chain, or starting with a university degree

If only the industry had done the same.

in distilling.

In March 2020 during the beginning However, craft gin and rum are totally

of the Covid pandemic, Matt’s Flybe

different animals. Many times, people

work chat suddenly became filled with

going into either have a ‘regular’ job. But,

messages from worried colleagues

feeling unsatisfied and unfulfilled or just

reporting their aircraft had been

wanting to do something different, they

grounded and impounded, or that

decide to give distilling a try. Most times

airports suddenly refusing to give fuel.

they keep the other job until the distillery

Matt and Rebecca were worried. They

starts to pay its way or they decide this

had just bought a larger house for their

wasn’t for them. You could label this the

growing family. Still, the government

‘safe or hobbyist approach.’

immediately stepped in and promised it

For a much smaller minority, craft gin and

would keep Flybe flying. Things wouldn’t

rum distilling represents a way of putting

be that bad.

food on the table, keeping up with house

It was a pie crust promise – easily made,

payments, and trying to make the best of

easily broken. The next day Matt got the

a bad situation. That is exactly where Matt

official notification that Flybe had folded,

and Rebecca Hunt found themselves at

and he was made redundant. It hit Matt

the very start of the Covid pandemic.

like a ton of bricks. He and Rebecca realised that with so many other pilots

Matt Hunt was a pilot for Flybe; being

around the world suddenly out of work,

a commercial pilot was all that he ever

finding a pilot’s job elsewhere wasn’t an

wanted to be. However, being a pilot is

option.

a lot less glamorous than it sounds. If you’re flying for smaller airline or doing

Matt had always been self-made. Even

local hops for a big one, there is no

with his flight training, he had worked a

schedule or rhythm in your life.

variety of jobs to pay for it. But now like

You’re up at 3.30am for a 5.30 flight.

a trapeze artist, he had just let go of the

The next day you could be starting

bar, realised there were no safe hands

mid-afternoon and be flying late. You

waiting to catch him, and worse of all,

DISTILLERS JOURNAL

RUM

there was no safety net below.

could reach a saturation point. However,

To get a license, Matt and Rebecca

Rebecca and Matt started looking for

with rum there was less competition

would have to show that they had a

work anywhere and would even try for

and in Scotland, there is an on-going

distillery and the expertise to run it. They

the same job. From being seen as a stay-

rum renaissance. The couple bought

had neither. And with rum there is a real

at-home mom, Rebecca would always

plain white rum and then infused it with

Catch-22 situation with HMRC. Before a

be under qualified. As a pilot, Matt would

different ingredients, trying to come up

license can be granted, a distillery must

be overqualified

with a flavour that would be theirs and

be built. But there is zero guarantee that

They were quickly running out of options.

not a copy of someone else’s.

a license will be granted. A want-to-be distiller could be left broke and holding a

“We realised that no one was going to give us a job. No one was going give us

They had some recipes they were happy

huge white elephant.

a future, everyone was struggling. The

with, it all looked promising, and then

The couple, though, refused to be

whole economy was shutting down,” says

reality hit them like a ton of bricks.

discouraged.

With gin, nearly all craft distillers buy

Matt realised that first off, he needed to

their base spirit and then distil into it the

learn as much as he could. There are

THE ALCHOHOL JOURNEY

botanicals. Because they’re not making

short courses and university degrees in

The couple spent nights brainstorming

a highly volatile spirit on their premises,

distilling. Oftentimes involved in the sale

ideas. An idea that Rebecca still feels

getting a license through HMRC is

of a still, besides being trained how to

there is merit is making a portable

relatively painless and straight forward.

use it, help is giving in creating flavours

Rebecca. “We needed to make our own success.”

and styles. At the other end of the

children’s slide that would attach to a house’s stairs. However, they found that

However, Matt believed – as do many in

spectrum are YouTube videos and books

there were already several protypes out

Scotland – that the entire rum making

from Amazon. While this might seem like

there.

process needs to happen at the distillery.

a waste of time, UK bronze medal winner

They then noticed that while sales of

It wasn’t good enough to bring in rum

Sky Brown learned how to skateboard by

alcohol ceased in pubs, restaurants and

from the Caribbean or elsewhere and

watching YouTube videos.

night clubs, breweries and distilleries

then distil flavourings into it like gin.

were still finding creative ways of getting

Scottish rum needs to be made in

We all bring something from a previous

their drink into customers’ hands.

Scotland from sugar cane molasses and

job to the current, but it seems at first

Distilling gin or rum would be something

all-natural flavourings.

glance that it is near to impossible for Matt to have brought with him anything

they could do at home and people in the area were wanting to support locally

But to do this, the hurdles started coming

from a cockpit to a craft distillery. That

made products. In looking at the two

in fast and furiously, with the highest one

said, being a pilot requires a very focused

spirits, it was hard not seeing that gin

to jump coming from HMRC.

approach, being extremely resourceful,

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55

RUM

“We realised that no one was going to give us a job. We needed to make our own success.”

Rebecca Hunt, Old Mother Hunt and with zero cutting of corners,

The search began to find a contract

says Rebecca. Still, HMRC gave it the all-

attributes only the best distillers have.

distiller, but with tough Covid-19

important license to begin distilling.

With becoming a pilot and staying up

lockdown measures in place – especially

to standards, Matt was used to pouring

in Scotland – to pop into a distillery was

While some distillers are small and some

over and absorbing the information in

out of the question. This meant that

are tiny, Old Mother Hunt defines the

technical publications.

samples had to be sent back and forth.

word ‘micro’. Enough so that Rebecca is

What Matt quickly learned that while

Finally, they found one in London they

trying to get it officially acknowledged as

they weren’t over their heads in what they

were happy with. Now came the all-

Scotland’s smallest commercial distillery.

wanted to do, the water level was up to

important name. When Rebecca had

their chins. If the two wanted to make

their first child, her family jokingly called

Despite the still’s small size, they produce

rum, they’d need help.

her ‘Old Mother Hunt’. It seemed like a

five different types of rum: Coffee &

good name for their rum.

Chocolate; Silver Rum; Number Seven

CONTRACT DISTILLERY

Spiced Rum; Smoky Oak Golden Rum;

Celebrities or those with deep pockets

At this point Old Mother Hunt rum was

and Winter Spiced Rum. Most is sold

can come up with a concept, and let

doing what almost all craft gin distillers

through their website, with additional

their wallets bring in the experts to turn

and even some of the major players.

sales though farm shops, other retail

an idea into a saleable spirit, all without

They buy in the base spirit and then

outlets including Master of Malt,

their hands ever getting dirty. Even on

add flavourings. However, for Matt and

Craft56, The Little Whisky Shop and

a much smaller scale, the only action

Rebecca, this wasn’t good enough. As

The Rum Company. Production can be

some gin distilleries do is to put the

hard as it was going to be, they wanted

comfortably run at 600 bottles a month

label on their bottle, contracting out all

full control over their product and their

but can be increased to 1,200 depending

other aspects of the operation. There is

lives. If they failed, it was due to their own

on demand.

absolutely nothing wrong in doing this.

fault, not because a contractor couldn’t

If you have small production, you need

To paraphrase Clint Eastwood in his ‘Dirty

deliver.

to ensure that your spirits will somehow

Harry’ role: “A distiller needs to know their

“We wanted something that we could

stand out in a crowded market and justify

limitations.”

be proud of, not just something to make

what you will have to charge to make a

The process, too, of using contract

money. If our rum was going to be

profit. If you try to duplicate the spirits of

distilleries and outsourcing some or

something honest and authentic, and

major producers, you’ll go bust. There is

all of production allows those new into

also be a future for us, it was something

absolutely no way you can do it cheaper,

the game to create their product with

we’d have to ultimately make for

and why would a customer pay double

significantly lower up-front costs and

ourselves,” says Rebecca.

the price of what a Bacardi knock-off is charging. Your craft spirits need to reflex

greater flexibility. There is a faster time to market and less red tape, and perhaps

BRINGING IT HOME

your story, which is what Old Mother

the most important aspect – depending

With Matt and Rebecca Hunt being Matt

Hunt Rum is doing.

on who you contract with and their

and Rebecca Hunt, a course they would

attitude towards helping – you can have

build their own 200 litre cooper pot still.

THE FUTURE

access to established distilling talent and

Trying to fit it all in the tight space they

Matt and Rebecca have had a huge

mentorship.

had was like playing a game of Tetris,

learning curve with all aspects of the

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DISTILLERS JOURNAL

RUM business. When people first think about

explain that they should have realised

up going bust and those who succeed is

becoming a craft distiller, they seem

that’s when their biggest sales would

how they look at mistakes. For Matt and

to forget that making a spirit is just one

take place and they should have more

Rebecca, they’re not ‘mistakes’, just part

part of the whole, you have bottles to

bottles and been more organised and so

of the learning curve. You treat them as

buy, labels to design a website or blog

and so on.

part of the education process and move

to catch up with, marketing concerns

That really isn’t the answer you were

on, wiser for having made them.

and million other things. Adding to Matt

expecting. The reason why air travel is

and Rebecca’s mixture are two young

so safe is that pilots and crews don’t

After thinking about it longer, Rebecca

children. Has it been worth it for them?

gamble. They check weather conditions

says: “Even with all the problems, it’s

and make sure the plane is 100 percent

been worth it because it’s given us a

At this point you would like to hear that

ready for flight. While most people think

sense of purpose and a hope for the

everything has turned out grand with

the expression ‘winging it’ comes from

future.”

Matt and Rebecca and Old Mother Hunt

the early days of flight, it actually comes

You talk to some companies, and you

Rum. But, as if the gods themselves

from the theatre when actors would

know that despite all the advantages

are seeing how much the duo can take,

hastily learn their lines while waiting in

that they have, they’ll fail. You talk to

both got Covid and are only recently

the wings. Pilots don’t wing it and Matt

others who, as our grandfathers would

recovering from it, with their sense of

doesn’t strike anyone as someone who

say “barely have a pot to piss in” and you

smell and taste not 100 percent by

throws the dice when making a crucial

know they’ll still succeed. Between these

any means. They are still in business,

decision.

two, you know where you see Old Mother

however, and still selling rum.

Hunt Rum. While it sure seems like that is exactly

Rebecca is asked if in hindsight she had

what Matt and Rebecca were doing with

any regrets or would have done things

Old Mother Hunt, they aren’t. The first

differently. She thinks for a moment and

time you go into business for yourself,

says: “We weren’t prepared at all for

you have to expect that you’ll make some

our first Christmas…” and she goes on to

mistakes. What separates those who end

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WINTER 2021

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BRAND VALUE

BRAND VALUE

KNOWING YOUR TANGIBLES FROM YOUR INTANGIBLES NO MATTER WHAT YOUR DISTILLERY’S SIZE IS, IT’S VALUABLE FINDING OUT WHAT ITS BRAND VALUE IS IN TODAY’S MARKET. DISTILLERS JOURNAL REPORTS

distillersjournal.info

W

e have all seen

released a report detailing the brand

lists of brand

value of the top 50 international spirit

ratings and worth.

manufactures which drew Distillers

‘The Top 15 Spirit

Journal interest to it. This company,

Companies’,

which has offices around the world,

Worlds Most Valuable Drink Companies’

evaluates the strength and value of more

and so on. The thought must cross your

than 5,000 global brands a year, in 46

mind, no matter if you are the largest

sectors ranging from engineering to

distiller or the smallest – what is the

pharmaceutical to spirits and beer. Who

value of my brand?

the top five spirit companies are and

Does it matter? In one word – yes. Every

how they reached that position, you will

business has a brand and a brand value.

find surprising in a feature which directly

In fact, even countries – Italy winning

follows.

the Euro 2020 will boost its economy by 4 billion euros in the short term.

According to Richard Hague, managing

Understanding the value of your brand

director of Brand Finance, to put it simply,

can help you invest in it, it will aid you in

the brand value is how much the brand

growth, and will give you something to

is worth.

show your stakeholders.

“From the biggest to the smallest, every business has a brand and a brand value.

And, if an offer is being made on your

What does your brand value do for

company or if you want to attract a buyer

discovery? Understanding the value of

or majority investor, you’ll know what

your brand means you can invest in it

you’re really worth and if you’re getting a

properly, you know what it’s worth, you

good deal.

know how to build it, and you know how

There are many brand evaluation

to build value for your business.”

companies out there, with the three major players being Interbrand, which

A brand valuation is, however, more than

does a ‘Best Global Brands’ list; Millward

just about your distillery, it’s about your

Brown which has a BrandZ Top 100 list;

customers as well. As Shakespeare said

and Brand Finance, with has a ‘Global

how we are all actors on a stage, so too

500’ list.

you can say that we are all brands in our own right. Do the brands that we buy

The three use a similar starting point

from reflect our own personal brand?

– the company’s income. Then, each

A well-done brand valuation will point

tries to estimate something a bit

out who your customers are and how can

intangible – how much future profits can

approach them and their personal brand.

be attributed to the brand itself. How

Probably no other product reflects this

data is collected and evaluated differs

as much as a car. For example, if you see

between all three, which can lead to

your personal brand as somebody who

three different valuations placed on the

cares about the environment, you were

same company. Indeed, Marketing Week

driving a hybrid before anyone else and

brought together representatives of all

now you’re driving a full electric.

three companies to explain this for a feature called ‘Brand valuation: Brilliant or

You see your personal brand as being

Bullshit?

a bit of a maverick. When it comes to spirits, the more obscure the better is

While all three have positives to offer if

your motto. Thus, someone like Diageo

you are considering having your brand

would be wasting their money on trying

evaluated, Brand Finance has recently

to tie your personal brand to theirs.

WINTER 2021

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59

BRAND VALUE

FOR EVERY COMPANY?

that they know, particularly with spirits,”

I own a medium-size, independent

says Hauge. “This is because it’s much

whisky distillery in Scotland. Our sales

more of a gamble buying a full bottle of

team has absolutely no problems

spirit when you don’t know if you like it or

selling our stock, and in fact, we have

not. Whereas in in a bar you can try it for

the opposite problem – we have to limit

the price of a drink, plus it is easier to get

sales. Why would I want to have my

spirit recommendations as well.

brand valued?

“Everyone seems to be saying that gin

“It’s another asset that you have at your

has reached its zenith, it will start tailing

disposal to bring value to your business,”

off, and rum will be next on the agenda.

says Hauge. “You don’t necessarily have

It does seem to be heading this way

to pay quite as close attention to it as

right now. There are a lot of new rums

some other organisations where brand is

appearing and the big companies, like

a large proportion of their business. But

Diageo are all talking about their rums,”

understanding how it’s delivering value to

he says.

you will help you make the most of it and might unlock a new way of creating value

Rum, however, is not just one cohesive

for you and your distillery.”

mass like gin and therefore it’s potentially going to be a bit more difficult to get

With this imagined medium-size Scottish

people drinking rum with categories

distillery, it is easy to see what its tangible

such as spiced, white, dark and golden,

assets would be. These are its property,

according to Hauge. “People are going to

plant and equipment; if you can put

have to see it in a different way and so it’s

your hand on it, it’s a tangible asset. But

going to be slight take slightly longer to

a term which is batted around by brand

take hold.”

valuation companies is ‘intangible assets’.

If you’re taking a more global view as to

“Our Scottish distillery we’re talking

what will be the new growth drivers and

about has a good distribution network.

markets, you have to realise that every

That’s an intangible asset, as are its

market is different. You might see an

customer relationships, goodwill, brand

opportunity in a market that isn’t present

recognition, trademark and all of that,”

in the UK, or vice versa.

says Hauge. While it might not seem it, attaching value to a company’s intangible

“You need to essentially be aware of what

assets is not as difficult as it might seem.

the global trends are particularly focused

A problem Distillers sees, however, is

on and what trends are happening in

when the company itself decides its

large markets, And all of this depends

intangible value. It would be just as

how long term your timelines are,” says

of it, and then approach some of the big

easy to undervalue as it would be to

Hauge. “If you’re looking at the next year,

companies to try to get bought. Or is it

overvalue.

then you probably need to be looking

better to wait for a big company to find

more at what’s happening in the US. If

you?

GROWTH DRIVERS

you’re thinking five, 10 or 20 years from

“That’s a personal choice. It’s hard for

There are few things which have shook

now, you probably need to be looking

me to say in any specific circumstance,

up the drinks industry in the last 50 years

more with what’s happening in China.”

whether being proactive would be better than being passive. But I’d imagine if

the way Covid-19 did, and the closing of pubs, clubs and restaurants. While spirit

INVESTMENT OR BUYOUTS

you really want this to happen, you’re

sales took a dive, it was temporary as

You have a small distillery and big plans.

probably going to have to get them to

customers found new ways to get their

Unfortunately, when you look at your big

notice you in some way,” says Hauge.

drink, either in supermarkets or online.

plans and the small revenue coming in,

“Which might mean that you will have to

As things, however, slowly get back to

you can see that it will take 10 to 20 years

go and ask them and say, ‘Hey, I’ve got

the new normal, what will be the growth

to accomplish this goal.

this valuable property. I’ve got this great

drivers?

However, if somebody buys you out

brand, and I’ve got this great vision. This

“Over the next year, there’s going to be a

and keeps you on, or at least invests

is what I can do with your help.’ If you just

surge back to bars as they open up. And

in your company, you’re going to have

sit there waiting for them to find you, it

people will want to be trying new things.

the revenue now. If this is your goal,

could be a long wait.”

Over the course of lockdown, people

should you approach Brand Finance

haven’t necessarily been trying new

or other like-company, get you brand

If you are thinking of having your

brands, they’ve been sticking to the ones

evaluated so you can see the real value

distillery evaluated, remember there are

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BRAND VALUE

numerous companies which specialise in

With a brand evaluation, remember there

experience of what they have seen,

this. There are also software programs to

is much more to it than just the cost of

heard, learned, thought, and felt over

enable you to do this yourself, however,

what comes in your door and the profits

time.

at Distillers Journal we believe it is very

that occur when your beverage leaves.

difficult to evaluate yourself when it

There is also the public’s perception of

When looking at Moutai, why are Chinese

comes to something like intangibles.

your brand. Take two bottles of Coca-

customers willing to pay more for this

Cola, keep one in the original bottle and

brand than others? There is the belief that

No matter who does your brand

put the other in a bottle marked “Aldi-

it is a superior baijiu and the prestige that

valuation, you should expect the

Cola”. It’s pretty much a guarantee that

comes in serving it. Good luck trying to

following information:

anyone given the choice between the

use your Excel spreadsheet in calculating

u The strengths and weaknesses of your

two drinks, they will choose Coca-Cola.

the value of that.

brand and barriers to growth

If allowed to sample from both of the

u Who are your customers and is there

identical colas and then asked which one

Everyone agrees that a strong brand

a potential segment which you should

tastes better, the majority will choose

is valuable – this doesn’t matter if

target?

Coca-Cola.

you sell your spirits by the case or by

u It should evaluate your marketing

the containership full. The challenge,

strategy and point out weaknesses

Why? According to marketing author

however, is putting a price on that value.

u And the evaluation should give you

Philip Kotler, brand value is directly

This is a good time to solicit the help of

strategic insights to help move your

related to the perception and mindset

an expert.

brand forward

of potential and current customers. It reflects the direct and indirect brand

distillersjournal.info

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LUXLO GIN

CARVING OUT THEIR OWN CATEGORY

ANOTHER DISRUPTOR HAS ENTERED THE GIN SCENE...

STEVE ADAMS AND HIS 20% ABV BEVERAGE THAT IS MADE FOR GIN LOVERS WHO WANT TO REDUCE – BUT NOT ELIMINATE – ALCOHOL IN THEIR DRINK. CAN ADAMS BE ON TO THE NEXT BIG THING? VELO MITROVICH REPORTS

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O

utside of Johnny Depp’s

After all Generation Z, the latest

character in Roman

generation to be able to legally drink,

Polanski’s ‘The Ninth

aren’t rushing to the pubs, with a strong

Gate’, few people drink

25 percent in the UK choosing not to

gin neat. By EU and Gin

drink at all. That isn’t not drinking in

Guild regulations, gin needs to have a

January, or not drinking on weekdays, or

juniper-led flavour and have a minimum

even just cutting back on units of alcohol.

37.5% ABV. That said, gin mixed with tonic

No, they are flat-out not drinking. At 35 or

water is its most common manifestation

45 will they suddenly get a urge to have a

– a G&T – and gin’s ABV drops to 10% in

martini? Very doubtful.

a pub drink, while in a Fleabag-pleasing

In Ireland, spirit consumption is at a

RTD can, it’s anywhere from five to 10%

30-year low and it’s not Covid driving

ABV.

this figure. Again, it’s younger people

When Steve Adams started looking at

choosing not to drink or to drink

low-to-no alcohol spirits and wondering

considerably less.

where they failed, it struck Adams that

And it’s just not younger people who are

alcohol adds a lot to a drink besides

rethinking their relationship with alcohol,

inebriation. When distilling gin, botanicals

but other age groups as well. They’re

work better with alcohol as opposed to

either preferring to abstain during the

water – giving a better flavour – and there

week or have just one well-crafted drink

is the all-important mouthfeel from the

– and are willing to pay for it.

gin’s alcohol. But did gin actually need

But, as Adams is finding out with his 20%

to be at 37.5% ABV to accomplish this?

ABV Luxlo, in the drinks industry it’s never

Could a reduced-alcohol gin give people

easy to be a pioneer. When you strike out

the same thing they were looking for in a

into the great unknown where no one

full-strength gin?

has been before, you often strike-out as

He’s not the only one with these

well. Think about it. If your average pub or

thoughts.

supermarket is still struggling after seven

Hayman’s Small Gin falls under proper

years with where to place non-alcoholic

EU gin definitions but markets itself as

Seedlip on a shelf, where are they

a low alcohol gin. How is this possible?

going to place a lower alcohol gin-like

Simple, each bottle comes with a thimble

beverage?

which is the suggested serving size. Use that instead of a shot glass measure in

BEGINNINGS

your gin cocktail and suddenly 40% ABV

Although Adams is making something

became low alcohol. With an intense

very untypical, in many ways he is

blast of flavour, it’s not meant to be drunk

following a well-worn path when it

neat.

comes to gin. Most new craft gin distillers

However, for Adams – being a successful

are looking at distilling as a second

businessman who is the CO and founder

career. Distilling is not something they

of Mattress Online and not a distiller with

know so they either take courses, read

a knowledge of labelling and regulations

Amazon’s collection of gin books and

– the answer seemed simpler. Reduce

watch countless YouTube videos on gin.

the alcohol by a half and give customers

Or they bring in a hired gun.

exactly what they want. No wondering

“We came up with the idea and

where you put the thimble, just pour and

registered the company back in January

enjoy.

2018, but it was very much a dormant

In many ways the idea sounds brilliant.

thing,” says Adams.

DISTILLERS JOURNAL

MEET THE DISTILLER

“At that point, we had no concept of how

But with the gin, they wanted it to be a

which have a greater affinity to alcohol

to advance our idea, and we didn’t really

premium drink and a luxury product. Tied

rather than water, Therefore the flavours

know which way to go.”

to that they knew it was going to be low

dissolve in alcohol and not in water.

The idea behind Luxlo, however, started

in calories as well as lower in alcohol. And

Servini says that you need the alcohol

even earlier. From a social aspect, Adams

then, just to make it more of a challenge,

to stabilize the flavour compounds –

has enjoyed going out drinking for years.

in order to stand out on a shelf, they

especially some of the heavier oils.

But, as he got older, he found it harder to

wanted the brand name to be vertical.

Although Adams was hoping to have the

cope with this social life. His life’s voyage,

Lux (luxury) lo (low) was born – LUXLO.

finished product be 17-18% ABV – making

too, began experiencing some heavy

Although the working relationship

it exactly 50 percent lower than regular

rolls such as a divorce, and it was a good

has been superb, Adams is slightly

gin – 20% ABV was the lowest Servini

time to regroup his thoughts and figure

embarrassed to say how he found

felt he could go without compromising

out where he wanted to be with himself.

Matthew Servini who has been the

flavour.

He began to live a healthier lifestyle

creator and distiller of Luxlo.

with exercise and diet and reduced his

“It was a Google search,” Adams admits.

Flavours that were decided on include:

consumption of alcohol, all leading to a

With Vanessa Rapier, Servini founded

Ginny; Blood Orange; Pomegranate &

big drop in weight. Mattress Online was

The Craft Distilling Business in 2017 and

Raspberry; and Passion Fruit. Adams

doing well, he had a strong management

since then the two have set up over 70

says that flavour selection was a very

team in place, and it struck him he’d like

distilleries, mostly gin.

commercial decision.

to do something new, something that

With Servini working on recipe

“We gave Matt a brief saying this is where

would give him back that entrepreneurial

development, he and Adams came up

we think there’s opportunity in the market

flair along with allowing him to create.

with nearly 20 recipes until they found

and these are the flavours,” he says. “I

one that they were happy with.

personally like blood orange so that was

THE NAME

Servini told Distillers that when you look

a personal favourite of mine. With the

With a business partner who has since

at some of the low-to-no alcoholic beers

other flavours we were looking at ones

moved on, the two had a massive

being made in the States or Germany,

that weren’t already saturated out there

brainstorming session to come up with a

there’s no compromise in flavour, but

in the market.”

name. Mattress Online has a very simple

with spirits it’s much more challenging.

name and as he says, simple sometimes

Gin, in particular, has a lot of the flavour

In formal blind taste tests results (which

works best.

compounds coming from the botanicals

Distillers found in informal tests) they

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MEET THE DISTILLER with the only difference being the choice of botanicals used which differ in all gin brands.

The only real difference is the amount of alcohol in Luxlo compared to regular gin.

But Adams says, with the government encouraging people to drink less, they should be supporting those who are trying to create reduced alcohol products and part of that should be allowing him to call Luxlo “gin”, as opposed to “a drink for gin lovers”.

“I find the whole concept to be backwards. To tell the truth, the fact that alcohol defines your beverage I think is totally wrong,” he says.

If Luxlo wasn’t the new kid on the block, if the Luxlo team had more time and the budget to lobby the government, this is something that Adams would fight.

“It’s a very backward and traditional and archaic way of looking at what is essentially exactly what we should be encouraging people to do – drink less. showed that if drinkers do not know

moment, going direct.

And that’s exactly the space I want to be

it’s reduced alcohol before the test, in

“We do a lot on Amazon, we’re on a few

in. Because I do like to drink, and I like

almost all cases this was never picked

websites – the typical ones like Skinny

the feeling of having a drink. So having

up on. Distillers found that when drinkers

Booze, which are now called DrinkWell,

a non-alcoholic beverage was never my

were told beforehand it was a reduced

so they sell it very much as a low-calorie

agenda. I wanted to create something

alcohol gin, female drinkers said they

benefit. We were heading into bars

more mindful – mindful drinking.

could taste no difference, while male

but then lockdown occurred so that is

As always when anyone is creating a new

drinkers said they could.

delaying us.”

spirit, be it full alcohol, reduced or none,

With the label design – which has

Outlets such as Master of the Malt and

the question you are asked is: “Where

butterflies, birds and gin botanical plants

numerous others sell it as well. Reviews

do you see yourself fitting on a Waitrose

on it – to the flavours of the different

in UK newspapers to a one have been

shelf?”

Luxlo beverages, it was decided fairly

very favourable, with the Pomegranate &

“I see us with Campari, we’re not a low-

early on that Luxlo’s marketing angle

Raspberry proving to be a winner.

to-no spirit, we have alcohol, just an amount like in Campari or Primm’s.”

would lean more to female drinkers than male.

One approach to marketing that Adams

At the recent low-to-no exhibit in

“We didn’t design the drink and label

hadn’t thought of in the very beginning

London, Luxlo had a display and was the

to be intentionally female led, but as

was the stressing of Luxlo being vegan,

only reduced-alcohol product there.

it turned out, there’s been no surprise

gluten free and low calorie. Although

when you look at it. Even putting low

most other spirits, too, can be described

“It was interesting,” says Adams. “A lot of

calorie on it was something that would

exactly the same, Adams said that when

people tried it and said it was fantastic.

always resonate more with women then

talking with perspective customers at

They thought it was great you can have

with men,” says Adams, adding that going

shows, they all seemed stunned by these

a product with still some alcohol in it. So,

by names on orders, about 90 percent

three facts. That said, another should be

there we sit between that midpoint in the

are generated by women.

added to this list: Adams says that few

trends at the moment.

gin drinkers he has spoken to are aware

“We are quite unique; I’m just not sure if

SALES

of how high the alcohol content is in gin.

that’s good or bad at the moment. We are

According to Adams, at the moment

Which leads to a sore subject.

carving out our own category.”

most sales are direct to the public.

“We’re at consumer events, we just done

COMING BATTLE

CarFest and that generated £10,000

When Adams compares Luxlo to

worth of sales in a couple of days. So

Gordon’s or other leading gin brands, he

that’s our biggest route to market at the

sees the exact same ingredients used,

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DISTILLERS JOURNAL

ILLING

IT’S TIME TO TALK ABOUT FILLING AND DISGORGING

WHETHER YOU’RE A SMALL CRAFT DISTILLERY OR A GLOBAL GIANT, THE FINANCIAL IMPLICATIONS OF INACCURATE CASK FILLING AND DISGORGING CAN PROVE CRITICAL. COCKAYNE REPORTS

measurement system would also have

investing in R&D to develop long-

the potential to assist blenders and

term inventory technology, with both

wood managers in understanding their

standardised and bespoke solutions.

cask inventory and re-conditioning requirements.”

“Cask-filling machinery over the last 30

At filling, the data captured includes

years has contained the same basic

the make, filling date, cask type, bulk

building blocks: pumps, valves, and

content, alcohol content and the litres of

some form of measuring instrumentation

alcohol at filling (OLA) at cask and parcel

to allow for recording and reporting of

level. “In conjunction with costing and

data,” he says. “And it’s the nature of the

other financial information, this forms

process that these building blocks will

the basis for balance sheet valuations

always be required.

of a company’s liquid assets and has to satisfy HMRC requirements,” says Boyd

“However, as with all industries, the spirits

“It will then be used to analyse scenarios

world is driving a culture of continuous

such as trading margins, product costs

improvement. There is a growing

and trends over time, cost analysis of

demand for the pumps to be more

proposed blend adjustments, and the

efficient, the valves to be more tightly

M

feasibility of product development.

controlled, the flow meters to be more accurate, and for the control system to

atching your inventory to whisky sales

“And, of course, it’s crucial for assessing

forecasts is a complex

your long-term ability to match supply

task, heavily reliant on

while maintaining spirit quality against

Cockayne says that it has met these

robust and accurate

supply more process data.”

sales forecasts for products that can

demands through improvements in drive

data, says David Boyd, former head

range from three to 30 years old,” he

control, proportional control of valves,

of inventory at Campbell Distillers

adds. “Each brand has to be assessed

the integration of Coriolis meters, and

and Chivas Brothers. In his 35 years of

across every year on the journey to its

the use of PLC and SCADA systems to

experience, he has followed millions

release to ensure that the inventory from

monitor the filling machinery. Yet, it says,

of casks from the point of filling to

something produced in the past is in

some distilleries continue to struggle on

disgorging – a journey that, in the case of

place for sale in the future.”

with older equipment that suffers from a

some premium brands, can take 20 to 30

Furthermore, what is derived from this

lack of standardisation.

years or more.

data will drive both future distillation

“Different distilleries are equipped

“Over the years, I realised that the

volumes and purchase requirements,

with different configurations of filling

forecasts I was working to were fun

sometimes leading to capital investment

systems, and the control electronics and

to believe but sales and marketing

projects or expensive long-term supply

reporting software also vary,” says Ross.

people will always tell you that a new

contracts. “The information generated

“This means that the filling machines

product will do amazingly well and that

from disgorging is critical to sense-

become very difficult to support longer

established brands will continue to grow

checking these assumptions,” says

term. Spares holding and software

in volume year on year,” he says. “The

Boyd. “A small variation on the inventory

maintenance become expensive

reality doesn’t always match up. And

demand for a one-million case aged

and time consuming across so many

by the time the product is released to

brand could be highly significant further

variations of systems and, as a result,

the market, the people responsible for

down the line – and very costly.”

service is not offered to the standard that the industry requires or demands.”

those forecasts will more than likely have moved on.

THE PUSH FOR EFFICIENCY Cockayne Systems, now based in

According to Ross, this is why the

“The data captured through filling and

Perthshire, has been a well-known name

company developed its Caskmaster 4.0.

disgorging solutions from specialists

in the field of filling and disgorging for

“It’s a modular system that can easily

such as Cockayne is key,” he says.

more than 50 years. The company was

be scaled to match your production

“Gaining a precise understanding of

taken over in 2019, in a joint venture

demand. The design uses stand building

the volumes of spirit that are actually

between Edwards Engineering and

blocks, utilising the two most common

delivered at disgorging after years

DPS Group, and a new management

control platforms in whisky distilleries.

of maturation are essential to best-

team installed, including Donald Ross,

It also eliminates the need to have two

practice inventory management. Even

operations director.

separate software platforms running

for the same age of spirit, this can vary

“The takeover has brought fresh thinking

on the filling and disgorging line – one

from operation to operation depending

to Cockayne,” says Ross. “We’ve placed

program for the machine control and one

on cask size mix and warehousing

an increased emphasis on customer

program for the reporting.”

configuration. A fully functional tint

service levels and engineering solutions,

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He adds that the Caskmaster 4.0

THE RISE OF SINGLE MALT

estimate required production levels to

integrates all that functionality in one

The balance between technology and

cover you in case your angel’s share

platform, with visualisations and screens

human experience is one that Ross has

predictions are wrong, you could lead

that allow seamless navigation between

followed keenly, while observing that

your organisation into some costly

engineering and process information.

the growth in the popularity of single

decisions such as long-term supplier

Also, the Coriolis meter gives the highest

malts has simultaneously made inventory

deals or even building a new distillery.

possible level of accuracy, as well as

management even more challenging.

Then throw into the mix the fact that the sales forecast may be wildly over-

enhanced levels of reporting (fill volume, ABV%, temperature, density).

“When I first entered the industry, you

ambitious, and you could be storing up a

might have had two iterations of a single

lot of future problems for the business.”

AUTOMATION & ROBOTICS

malt brand – a standard offering plus

Yet, while Cockayne is already at

an aged variant,” he says. “But now,

The need for communication

the forefront of filling and disgorging

when you’re looking to the future, you’re

All of which points to the fact that running

technology, Ross and his team are keen

usually having to lay down volume for

just about any kind of business today

to address further industry issues through

multiple iterations, each with specific

requires a mix of the right technology

their R&D initiatives and understanding

cask finishes and requirements. It’s

and something that only humans can

the longer-term operational challenges

adding even more lines to an inventory

excel at – communication.

of clients. He’s also an enthusiast for

manager’s stock model – a huge

“In big organisations, decisions are

combining the complementary strengths

database that has become a lot more

often made about filling and disgorging

of technology and humans.

complex over the years.”

equipment without consulting the

Technology has made a hugely positive

inventory managers,” says Ross.

“In the UK, automation and robotics have

impact but, as Ross points out, there isn’t

“It’s decided purely on what works

traditionally been viewed as a threat to

a machine or piece of software in the

industrially. But we should all be having

jobs, and that’s possibly even more so

world that can tell you how much of your

wider conversations about what we’re

in an industry steeped in tradition, such

inventory, across numerous brands and

trying to achieve and why we’re trying

as whisky,” says Ross. “However, for us,

styles, you will lose through the ‘angel’s

to achieve it. And the answers to those

automation and robotics are simply tools

share’.

questions should then be built into the design and commissioning.”

to support and enhance the skills of the traditional workforce.”

It’s a widely regarded rule of thumb that Scottish distilleries can expect to

Traditionally, businesses providing filling

He offers colour monitoring systems

write off two percent of their stock per

and disgorging equipment have been

as an example. The sensor, controller

annum through spirit that evaporates or

seen simply as ‘suppliers’, whereas Ross

and interface can monitor the spirit

disappears into the wood. In reality, that

believes that the whisky industry stands

during the disgorge operation and tell

rate varies widely. In warmer climates,

to gain much from building longer-

you what colour it is as it exits the cask.

such as the southern US bourbon trade,

term relationships with those, such as

However, that information is worthless

the angel’s share rate in year one can be

Cockayne, who offer genuine expertise in

without someone who has the skill

as high as 10 percent. On the other hand,

this area.

and experience to be able to say what

the rate drops as the years progress.

“Of course I would say that,” says Ross.

colour range is indicative of good cask

According to Ross, if the rate of loss really

“But the big advantage for the whisky

performance.

was two percent every year, there would

industry is that it could exert a huge

be nothing left of a 50-year-old Scotch

influence on the direction of research and

“The same is true with cask handling,”

by the time it came to be disgorged.

development, so that the design of the

says Ross. “Conveyors and robots can

Calling it right, or as close to right as

equipment is guided first and foremost

be used to bring casks to and from

possible, is an art borne of expertise and

by their needs. It’s in everyone’s best

processing lines which, given that they

experience.

interests to have a bigger conversation.”

can weigh up to 250kg, eliminates a massive health and safety risk. And,

Incidentally, you might think that it would

while further automation such as vision

be wise for a inventory manager to

systems can be used for inspection, a

overstate the likely angel’s share loss to

cooper will always be required to repair

cover any contingency and ensure that

and rejuvenate poorly performing casks.

inventory targets are met. But, as Ross

We feel there can be a balance between

points out, it’s more complicated than

using enough technology to increase

that.

productivity and keeping our whisky

“I tended to be more cautious,” he

industry competitive, but not so much so

confesses, returning to the theme of

that the tradition is lost.”

over-optimistic sales teams. “If you’re dealing in big volumes and you over-

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DISTILLERS JOURNAL

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YIELD CALCULATION ON STARCH-BASED SPIRITS

YIELD

IN PRODUCTION OF SPIRIT FROM ANY TYPE OF GRAIN, GRAIN IS MAJOR PART OF THE COST AND UNDERSTANDING ETHANOL YIELD AND POTENTIAL AREAS FOR IMPROVEMENT IS VERY IMPORTANT, EXPLAINS MARIA NACHETOVA TECHNICAL SUPPORT MANAGER EUROPE – LALLEMAND BIOFUELS & DISTILLED SPIRITS AND MARYSE BOLZON GLOBAL CRAFT DISTILLING MANAGER, LALLEMAND BIOFUELS & DISTILLED SPIRITS.

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W

hen we speak

KEY CONSIDERATIONS

about Yield calculations it

Yeast Choice

can be confusing

On grain such as corn, wheat, rye, etc.,

since we can refer

and also on roots such as potatoes,

to various values and it is important to

starch, through the action of enzymes,

understand what they mean and why we

is converted to fermentable sugars:

need to use them.

glucose, maltose, maltotriose. It is

First step would be to calculate

important to ferment with the yeast

theoretical yield - amount of pure ethanol

dedicated to the type of sugar you have

that you can theoretically produce from

in your process to make sure that you

certain amount of grain. Theoretical yield

get a complete fermentation with low

is calculated based on starch content

residual sugars (<2 g/L) at the end of

in the grain and theoretical yield from

fermentation.

glucose of 0.511g ethanol/g glucose.

It is never possible to reach 100% of

Conversion Factors

theoretical yield. Amid the diverse

Yeast cannot consume starch directly

reasons are the production of daughter

and enzymes are required to convert

yeast cells necessary to complete the

starch into fermentable sugars. The

fermentation, some losses in factory

conversion factor for starch to glucose

operation, the contamination by bacteria

is 1.11; that means that for 100 parts by

and wild yeast and the production of

weight of starch you get 110 parts of

glycerol, organic acids, higher alcohols,

glucose.

esters and other compounds by the

For high ethanol yield it is essential to

yeast.

manage mashing process (temperature, pH, enzymes dosage, etc.) correctly for

Fermentation yield which is calculated

efficient starch hydrolyses to fermentable

as amount of ethanol produced from

sugars.

certain amount of grain in fermentation gives a good understanding of up-front

Starch Content

part of the process efficiency, which will

Starch is what the distiller pays for. The

include grain quality, milling, mashing

starch content of the grain determines

and fermentation itself. The aim for

the potential quantity of fermentable

spirits producers is to reach 84-91% of

sugars and so the yield.

theoretical yield.

u If you have one ton of grains with 60%

Efficiency of distillation can be evaluated

(ww) starch, you will get 600 kg of starch;

by distillation yield which is calculated

if it is 65%, you will get 650 kg of starch.

as final liters of pure ethanol in your

u The difference of 50 kg of starch

distillate produced divided by liters of

represents 55.5 kg of glucose (50x1,11)

ethanol which came into distillation from

which is theoretically 28,36 kg of ethanol

fermentation.

(55,5 x0,511). This is equivalent to 35,94

The most important value for distiller is

liters of ethanol (28,36/0,789 (density of

overall yield as it gives you the cost of the

ethanol)) per ton of grain.

grain to produce spirit. This is a quantity

u With 5% starch difference in grains with

of pure ethanol that you can sell per ton

process efficiency of 85 % you will gain

of grain.

or lose 35,94 liters of ethanol per ton of

DISTILLERS JOURNAL

YIELD

grain.

Getting grains with high starch content and making sure that the enzymes which are used for Moisture Content The moisture content is a good indicator of grain quality: high moisture content means bad quality of grain and limited duration of storage and impact on the yield. u If you have a ton of wheat at 65% (dw) starch with 12% moisture and a ton of wheat at 65% (dw) with 15% moisture, the loss or the gain will be 11.9 liters of ethanol per ton of grain (based on 85% efficiency). Calculations are similar to the calculations for starch content). the fermentation is completed. At the

production is a complex process, and

Monitoring

end of fermentation and distillation, the

every step of the process will have an

Consistency is the key to success,

final ethanol content is measured by

impact on the final yield. Using good

so always working the same way

distillation taking care of the accurate

quality raw materials, efficient and

and recording data is important. It

volumes of sample and distillate.

consistent mashing, fermentation, and distillation are the keys for achieving high

is recommended to keep record of temperatures and specific gravity (SG)

Taking in account all these factors, it

during fermentation to make sure that

is important to remember that spirits

ethanol yields consistently.

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HUMIDITY

OVERLOOK HUMIDITY AT YOUR OWN PERIL WHILE CASK WAREHOUSE MANAGERS WILL OFTEN TALK ABOUT TEMPERATURE, HUMIDITY CONTROL SHOULD ALSO BE PART OF THEIR CASK AGING AGENDA. VELO MITROVICH REPORTS

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D

uring lockdown I have

breathing, this action allows for flavours,

had more opportunities

water and alcohol being exhaled and

to listen to music and to

the aromas and smells of the sounding

read books. One of the

area being drawn inside. You can taste

books I have managed

the sea in some Scottish whiskies aged

to catch up with was Pete Brown’s latest

near the sea; Kavalan says its whisky has

- Craft: An Argument: Why the term ‘Craft

a somewhat tropical taste, again from

Beer’ is completely undefinable, hopelessly

environment.

misunderstood and absolutely essential.

If you have not read this then I suggest

Many of the factors affecting casked

you do as it seeks to answer some

whisky seem to be accepted as just part

important questions.

of the process. Too little humidity and

Reading this book made me think,

your barrel gives up water; too much

it definitely helped me to begin to

humidity and you lose alcohol. There

crystallise my thoughts on the craft beer

have been even a few cases in the

movement.

Scottish whisky industry where casks that sat for decades had alcohol levels which

You have to feel some pity for Kavalan’s

dipped below 40% ABV, which tragically

master distiller in Taiwan. The island, off

meant the long-kept whisky could no

mainland China, is subtropical with high

longer be called Scotch whisky.

temperatures and humidity, occasional typhoons and a cold winter that lasts

But humidity is one part of the process

about four weeks at best.

that you can take control of and relatively

If ever a whisky environment can be far

easily.

from Scotland, this is probably it. Angels just don’t want a sip of the award-winning

The ability to control levels of humidity is

single malt whisky. With loses of up to

one of the most significantly overlooked

15 percent a year, it seems they want to

issues in modern industrial activity such

drink the whole cask!

as distilleries and breweries. Part of the reason for this is, most people don’t

No wonder the majority of Kavalan’s

notice humidity to anywhere near the

whisky is aged seven years or less, with

same degree that they are aware of other

most bottles having NAS on them – No

equally basic phenomena, such as heat,

Age Statement.

cold and draughts. But, as cask expert

Whisky matures in the cask – not in the

and writer Matt Strickland says, “Humidity

bottle – during aging when so much

is just as important a consideration

of the flavour comes from the three

though it’s the one that many distillers

elements that come out to play: the

think about the least.”

actual cask, aging time, and essential chemical reactions that take place

And it’s just not the obvious reasons why

between all these factors.

humidity needs to be factored you’re your cask warehouse management.

Almost like the tides going in and out,

Humidity can have a profound influence

with the wood used in casks being

on materials, on production costs, on

semi-porous, it expands on hot days and

service and maintenance expenditure

contacts during cooler days or at night.

and on asset durability, as well as

Like as if the casks are alive and

energy consumption and the resultant

DISTILLERS JOURNAL

environmental impact, says Lindsey

a concern across all aspects of the

how they are dealt with. The layman’s

Henderson of Humidity Solutions, an

production operation.

idea about dealing with humidity and condensation problems is simply to turn

acknowledged expert with more than 30-years’ experience in the air quality

“A good example of this is how the

up the heating, However, turning up the

industry.

lack of humidity control in a whiskey

heating has only very limited effects on

distillery was causing large losses due

humidity,” she says.

According to Henderson, uncontrolled

to evaporation. And in that particular

humidity in a distillery causes:

application, the whiskey was being

Heating does not alter the absolute level

u Condensation: The result of the fact

matured in oak casks over years to get

of humidity present in the air – it only

that the air, which inevitably contains a

its unique flavour and colour and these

increases the overall temperature. The

certain level of moisture, has a different

wooden casks they equalised with the

relationship between the heat content

temperature from the surfaces with

surrounding air which means that liquid

and the water vapour content of air is

which it comes into contact.

transforms outwards and then the air

relatively complicated and non-linear,

u Corrosion and rust: The combination

humidity in the story to when the air

and temperature isn’t as important as

of humidity and oxygen makes metals

humidity in the storage areas is too low.

air humidity, because of the dew point.

corrode, significantly affecting both

So, when the air around the casks is too

As you might recall, the dew point is the

strength and durability. Iron and steel rust

low, the moisture transforms outwards

temperature to which air must be cooled

and lose structural integrity, copper is

This means a loss of whiskey and of

to become saturated with water vapour,

plagued by verdigris, affecting electronics

course loss of income.”

or in other words, to achieve a relative humidity of 100 percent. At this point the

and electrical equipment. u Clumping and blockages: Powders

Distillers joke – somewhat – about losing

air cannot hold more water in the gas

and granulate absorb humidity

part of product to the angel’s share. But it

form. The higher the dew point rises, the

particularly easily. They then clump

you’re aging whisky for 10, 12 or even 20

greater the amount of moisture in the air.

together, affecting quality and causing

years, a two to three percent loss each

blockages in processing equipment,

year starts adding up to a significant

Heating then usually results in excessive

as well as providing a fertile breeding

amount.

energy costs to very little effect, because it takes much more energy to heat

ground for bacteria.

“This ‘angels’ share’ that occurs in the

moisture-laden air than to heat dry air.

CONSISTENCY RULES

maturing process is now controlled by

Heating, too, does not provide a year-

One problem that all distilleries have to

installing an Adiabatic humidification

round solution. In virtually all cases,

some degree is achieving a high degree

system which uses a high-pressure

removing moisture from the air using

of consistency with product. Every time

pump station and controls several zones

adsorption dehumidification technology

a customer opens up a bottle of your

independently using nozzles mounted

is significantly more effective, and makes

whisky, rum or other aged spirits, they

on heads that distribute the moisture in

it possible to work with consistent levels

want it to taste very similar to the last

a controlled manner,” says Henderson.

of effectiveness regardless of season or

one.

“Humidifying to the correct level and

weather.

stabilizing the humidity in the storage “Seasonal fluctuations in humidity result

areas have ensured losses are at an

“Humidity will always try to equalise;

in inconsistent production conditions.

absolute minimum and profit margins are

it’s always looking for equilibrium,” says

And that can affect product quality,

no longer affected.

Henderson. “When the surrounding area is very dry, then moisture – water – goes

energy consumption, and of course most importantly profit margins,” says

“Similarly, as too little humidity can cause

out from the casks. When the humidity

Henderson. “Today’s operations strive

issues, there are also many problems

is very high, nothing will transform out of

for consistency and conformity across

associated with too much humidity as

the casks. It’s a bit like a full sponge. If it’s

production over many years. Controlling

stated above, while we may know of

full of water, it can’t absorb anymore.”

variables such as humidity must be

these problems the important thing is

distillersjournal.info

WINTER 2021

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73

CONTROL ANGEL SHARE

time was it trying to cut corners when it

“During the summer to ensure a healthy

According to whisky sommelier Joel

came to worker safety.

air low, windows were opened to flush

Hauer, for whisky to properly age, it has

What got them really wondering was, it

out viruses. However, with winter coming

to breathe, and anytime you store a liquid

wasn’t as if workers were shaking hands

that is not a practical approach for visitor

in a non-airtight container, you are going

with each other every two seconds.

centres,” says Henderson.

to lose some of it to evaporation.

Employees were wiping surfaces, keeping approved distances for each

She says that according to studies she

Depending on how long the whisky is

other, washing hands, but still the

has read, humidified air has a huge

aged and the environment, as much as

numbers rose.

number of tiny water droplets. When they collide with a virus, it makes the virus

half of the cask can be consumed by the angel’s share. “Whiskies increase

They decided then to take a different

heavy and drop to a surface which can

in price and rarity as they age, and this

approach. Due to the expense in keeping

be easily cleaned, sterilised and reducing

isn’t just because of the time required to

the workplace cool, plant air once chilled

further transmission.

make them. A distillery still has to pay to

was recirculated with little exchange.

“In looking at getting the humidity to the

produce all the whisky that evaporates,

Although the journey of a virus when

right level for this to occur, 40 to 60%

and these costs usually find their way into

propelled by a sneeze is short, viruses

is your optimum level. This is the level

the remaining whisky’s price,” says Hauer.

are experts on hitching rides on slightly

where viruses, bacteria and mites are at

The dilemma is, you want your whisky to

their least active level,” says Henderson.

age properly and this requires the cask to

“Along with controlling the humidity, it

breath. On the other hand, you don’t want

is also every important that you have a

to see your profits sucked up by greedy

good filtration system.”

angels.

What happens inside a cask to aging According to Henderson, the angel share that occurs in the maturation process can be controlled by installing a humidification system which uses a high-pressure pump station that can control several zones independently, using nozzles mounted on heads that distributes the moisture in a controlled manner.

“If you humidify to the correct level and stabilise the humidity in the storage areas, you make sure that your losses are at an absolute minimum,” she says.

“It’s not big money to install a humidification system and by maintaining a stable humidity, it can have significant benefits on the production,” says

Along with controlling the humidity, it is also every important that you have a good filtration system.” Lindsey Henderson, Humidity Solutions

can only be considered pure magic. A harsh, almost tasteless, high-alcohol spirit goes into a cask, and three to 30 years later, comes out a refined gentleman, with flavours that almost seem impossible to have got simply from what went in.

It’s the oak, the char, what went first into the cask, and warehouse conditions.

While some many cask warehouse managers keep an eye mostly on the temperature gauge, just as important is the humidity.

Humidity control technology is the most cost-effective and environmentally

Henderson, adding that a return on

responsible way to tackle many

investment can be as short as 12 to 18 months.”

whisky, rum, tequila or other aged spirits

larger dry particles which increases the

problems widespread throughout the

distance they can travel.

distilling industry. It’s an easy, inexpensive

COVID 19 AND AIR QUALITY

With all the bone cutting, sawing, and

way to implement pro-active measures

If you talk with those in the industry and

general meat processing happening,

that help make sure you can maintain

doing an internet search will turn up

the air in all processing plants was filled

the value of your spirits, casks, processes

no reports of a distillery anywhere in

with tiny particles. At this German plant,

and other high-value assets. As all

the world having an issue with workers

portable air filters were installed in the

buildings and locations are different and

getting Covid 19. However, with the

workplaces and Covid numbers dropped

have their own unique requirements, it

meat processing industry it has been

considerably in a fast period of time.

is wise to get specialist advice to ensure the most appropriate solution.

completely different.

During the initial Covid pandemic, a

As life normalises in the UK, distillery

meat processing plant in Germany was

visitor centres are being opened for the

dumbfounded by the number of cases in

first time in well over a year. With mask

its work force. The plant followed every

wearing becoming an option, how will

government regulation to the ‘T’, at no

you keep visitors safe?

74

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WINTER 2021

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