THE MAGAZINE FOR DISTILLERS AND BLENDERS OF SPIRITS
DISTILLERS
J O U R N A L
ISSUE 1 | SUMMER 2021 ISSN 2754-0014
DR BILL LUMSDEN The guardian of Glenmorangie looks to the future 32 | SIPSMITH: PERFECTING THEIR ART
70 | ENZYMES: THEIR ROLE IN THE DISTILLING PROCESS
54 | MANCHESTER GIN: WHY AUTHENTICITY IS KEY
T
he other day I received a
economic classes, you might of heard of
wonderful surprise, a gifted
his first big seller, The Black Swan.
bottle of spirit. But, as welcomed as it was, what really
In this he talks about how, as a business,
got me thinking was the
we’re not prepared for a black swan –
LEADER
GROW IN THE TIME OF CHAOS rugged cardboard box it was delivered
something totally unexpected such as
in. Marked in large capital letters was:
Covid-19. In late 2019 I was interviewing a
FRAGILE.
craft brewer outside of Birmingham, Eng-
subjected to stress and tension, many
land, whose taproom brought in at least
things in life benefit from stress, disorder,
Besides the obvious, that word sums up
80 percent of his business – and busi-
volatility, and turmoil. In nature, there are
not only how most of us are looking at
ness was good. It was very, very good.
certain confers and flowering plants that
our distilleries right now as the Covid-19
require the extreme heat of a fire to seed.
pandemic lingers on, but even how we
I asked him what would he do if suddenly
look at our businesses when all is going
the taproom closed, how would he stay
“Some things benefit from shocks; they
well.
in business? Did he have the contact
thrive and grow when exposed to volatil-
details of any of these customers who
ity, randomness, disorder, and stressors
flooded in every weekend?
and love adventure, risk, and uncertainty.
That cardboard box is designed to keep the bottle safe in the worst of times; if
Yet, in spite of the ubiquity of the phe-
it gets dropped, kicked, or whatever. In
“Why would it close and why should I
nomenon, there is no word for the exact
our business, plans are contingencies,
bother?” he asked suspiciously, as if I
opposite of fragile. Let us call it ‘antifrag-
fall-safe measures – if the distillery loses
knew something on the sly.
ile’,” says Taleb.
one breaks in, an alarm message gets
“No reason, no reason at all,” I told him.
He explains that being antifragile is
sent out.
Despite thinking that he had a lot of
different from being resilient. Resilience is
eggs in one basket, I didn’t see any black
the ability to withstand setbacks without
We look at these kicks and punches our
swans circling overhead. Little did any of
being worse off afterwards. Antifragility,
business takes as something that we’ll re-
us know what was in store.
on the other hand, is the ability to not
power at night, a fire breaks out, some-
cover from – even though we lost power,
just withstand challenges, but thrive as a
we’ll survive because we have a back-up
Like with Sun Tzu’s ‘in the midst of chaos
result of them. The resilient resists shocks
generator.
there is also opportunity’, Taleb sees the
and stays the same; the antifragile gets
But what we never think about are what
same. “The same wind that blows out a
better and better.
opportunities we’ll have if the world
candle can get a fire roaring.”
around us goes pear-shaped. In other
Buster Benson, author of Why Are We
words, not looking at just recovery or a
You could shield the candle from the
Yelling?, says: “An antifragile way of life
return to normal, but pushing beyond.
wind, but to Taleb, antifragility is beyond
is all about finding a way to gain from
resilience or robustness – get that fire
the inevitable disorder of life. To not only
There was a book written around
roaring! The resilient resists shocks and
bounce back when things don’t go as
10-years ago by Nassim Nicholas Taleb
stays the same such as my bottle in the
planned, but to get stronger, smarter, and
called Antifragile: Things that Gain from
box. But the antifragile gets better.
better at continuing as a result of running
Disorder that explains this idea. As of
into this disorder.”
yet, I have not met most of you but I still
If you’ve ever had the misfortune to have
would not wish this 500-page ramble on
your knee or hip operated on, you know
None of this will happen, however, unless
anyone.
that instead of lying about in your hospital
you decide to do so, that you’re willing
That said, Taleb has some interesting
bed, the nurses get you walking hours
to reinvent your distillery to keep moving
ideas which I will get on to in a second.
after recovery.
forward, despite the chaos around you.
Just as human bones get stronger when
Velo Mitrovich
While you might not have heard of his Antifragile, if you’ve taken any business or
distillersjournal.info
SUMMER 2021
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3
SUMMER 2021
CONTENTS
Comments Insight in the world of imports/exports Don’t run the risk of HMRC fines on deliveries The dos and don’ts when launching new products Where should you be selling after lockdown?
10 12 13 16
The Big Interview | Dr Bill Lumsden The head of distilling & whisky creation at The Glenmorangie Company on his love of innovation.
18
Trending | No and Low spirits Velo Mitrovich looks at why alcohol-free spirits are more than a passing trend
24
Meet the Distiller | Sipsmith With a nod to the past and a look to the future, Sipsmith continues doing what it does best.
34
Ingredients | Fruit additions The growing demand for natural fruit additions.
38
Meet The Distiller | The Portsmouth Distillery A South Coast trio on a mission for UK rum
41
Case Study | RAER How Scotland’s RAER are realising their vision.
50
Meet the Distiller | Manchester Gin
54
Seb Heeley and Jen Wiggins, the co-founders of Manchester Gin, discuss their passion for authenticity.
Technology | Pumps
60
Why improving plant efficiency can boost profitability
Science | Enzymes
67
Adam Johnson, European technical sales at Murphy & Son, on enzymes and their role in distilling.
Technology | Humidity
73
Effective solutions for controlling humidity
10
Comment | Distribution
Insight into the import and export of premium spirits to and from the EU, US and beyond.
4
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SUMMER 2021
DISTILLERS JOURNAL
CONTACTS Velo Mitrovich Editor velo@rebymedia.com +44 (0)1442 780 591 Tim Sheahan Group Editor tim@rebymedia.com +44 (0)1442 780 592
18
Josh Henderson Head of sales josh@rebymedia.com +44 (0)1442 780 594 Jon Young Publisher jon@rebymedia.com
The Big Interview | Dr Bill Lumsden
The head of distilling & whisky creation at The Glenmorangie Company on his love of innovation.
54
Meer the Distiller | Manchester Gin
Seb Heeley and Jen Wiggins, the co-founders of Manchester Gin, discuss their passion for authenticity.
22
Trending | No and low
Velo Mitrovich analyses why alcohol-free spirits are more than a passing trend.
distillersjournal.info
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All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or any information storage or retrieval system, without the express prior written consent of the publisher. The Distillers Journal ISSN 2754-0006 is published quarterly by Reby Media, 42 Crouchfield, Hemel Hempstead, Hertfordshire, HP1 1PA. Subscription records are maintained at Reby Media, 42 Crouchfield, Hemel Hempstead, Hertfordshire, HP1 1PA. The Distillers Journal accepts no responsibility for the accuracy of statements or opinion given within the Journal that is not the expressly designated opinion of the Journal or its publishers. Those opinions expressed in areas other than editorial comment may not be taken as being the opinion of the Journal or its staff, and the aforementioned accept no responsibility or liability for actions that arise therefrom.
SUMMER 2021
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RECORD NEW DISTILLERIES
W
NEWS IN BRIEF
GRANTS TO DECARBONISE A combination of Scottish and English distilleries are set to receive between £44,000 and £75,000 in the first phase of
hile COVID-19 restrictions have hurt pub and restaurant
a UK government funding project to help
sales of distilled spirits, it hasn’t hurt the number of people
decarbonise distilleries. The scheme will
getting into distilling. According to figures from HMRC, the
aid in the use of hydrogen and biofuel
number of new distilleries being registered in a year sur-
boilers and geothermal energy in spirit
passed 100 for the first time.
production. The government claims that
The figures reveal that UK distillery numbers have doubled in four years, and in
this will help distilleries cut emissions by
England’s case have tripled since 2016. England now has 311 registered distiller-
almost a million tonnes of CO2 a year.
ies, 97 more than Scotland, which has also increased its number to 214. Northern Ireland recorded 10 new registrations, while Wales had four. According to the Wine & Spirit Trade Association (WSTA), bold investors have chosen to take the plunge and launch new spirit businesses across the country, despite the restrictions of the pandemic and closure of the hospitality sector.
LOST DECADE OF GROWTH
Miles Beale, chief executive of WSTA, said: “It’s heart-warming to find a positive story from the gloom of 2020 – and our bold and growing band of distillers have
The double whammy of Covid-19 and
delivered once again. The record number of new distilleries opening across the UK
the 25 percent US tariff have hit Scotch
is great news and helps provide jobs and a real boost to local economies.
whisky distillers hard, according to figures
“With such a difficult 2020 behind us and a daunting challenge to recover in 2021,
released by the Scotch Whisky Associ-
our distillers need the support of the Chancellor at the upcoming Budget. A freeze
ation (SWA), that show global exports of
at the last Budget certainly helped distillers to invest and grow, but we need the
Scotch whisky fell by more than £1.1bn
Chancellor to go further this time, with both a duty cut and an extension of the VAT
during 2020.
reduction in hospitality venues, until at least March 2022 – and including alcoholic
The export figures are the lowest they
drinks.”
have been in a decade. In 2020, the export value of Scotch whisky exports fell 23 percent by value to £3.8bn. The number of 70cl bottles exported fell by 13 percent to the equivalent of 1.14bn.
30 SECOND COCKTAILS Diageo is now selling its draught cocktail system to pubs and bars in anticipation of continued demand for premium drinks once people return to their local pub or bar. Dayalan Nayager, managing director of Diageo’s GB business, said the company launched the technology prior to the WSTA is urging the Government to back the brave army of distillers, who are taking
pandemic, but is already experiencing
a risk and ploughing their cash and efforts into businesses at a time of such uncer-
an influx of requests from pubs and bars
tainty, and to ensure that the UK remains the world’s biggest spirit producer.
which want to expand their menus in
“Distillers across the UK will play a vital role in 2021 and beyond as hospitality be-
time for reopening. A lot of high-footfall
gins to open up again, and by showing his support for distillers at the Budget the
outlets don’t actually serve cocktails
Chancellor can also promote the hospitality industry as it rebounds from Covid-19
because it takes the bartender so long to
restrictions,” said Beale.
make a good cocktail, so it doesn’t make
distillersjournal.info
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RUM FROM ISLAY
financial sense. Whereas, this way you
Lavery more than a decade ago through
can actually add four or five cocktails to
his Belfast Distillery Company, the project
your menu which will take a bartender 30
was later taken over by a group of US
A former lemonade factory on Islay is
seconds to pour,” he said.
investors, who are now the directors of
set to become the island’s first craft rum
the firm. It was originally granted planning
distillery. Described as a “small-scale
approval by BCC back in April 2013,
project”, the Islay Rum project team said
although work on the site later stopped in
it is aimed at creating business oppor-
July 2015.
tunities for a new generation of distillers
Belfast Distillery Company’s recent appli-
on the island, which is more famous for
cation was submitted following meetings
producing whisky and the occasional gin.
with planning officials in 2019.
Ben Inglis of Islay-based The High Road
ALCOHOL COFFERS BURSTING
Rum Company will run the venture.
The Government is £800 million richer than it anticipated in taxes from alcohol
This last year alcohol duties brought
0.0% TANQUERAY ELLC IN SECOND TO LAUNCH CROWDFUND
in £12.7 billion, up from £11.5 billion the
Drinks giant Diageo is launching Tanquer-
previous year. UK consumers – unable
ay 0.0%, a zero-alcohol drink in the style
The East London Liquor Company is
to drink in pubs, restaurants and clubs –
of its gin.
launching a new crowdfunding venture
turned to supermarkets for their daily sip.
This will be crafted from the same dis-
to help the distillery grow “bigger, bolder,
However, the hospitality trade has to be
tilled botanicals as Tanqueray London
and better”. In 2018 nearly 1,000 people
wondering if Britons will prefer drinking at
Dry including juniper, coriander, angelica
invested £1.5 million to own their piece of
home as they have become accustomed
and liquorice. Individually immersed in
the boozy adventure.
to over the last year, or will they return to
water, the botanicals are heated and then
pubs once restrictions are lifted?
distilled to create the distinct flavours
duties, which actually rose during the pandemic, according to data from the Office for Budget Responsibility (OBR).
associated with Tanqueray, said Diageo.
MIXING AT HOME
With Gordon’s launching earlier this year its 0.0% gin-like, this is a sign that the big
MALT PRODUCER ASSISTS FARMER
players see alcohol-free as a market to According to data experts Kantar, 68
be involved in. The Gin Guild has been
Simpsons Malt is assisting all its farming
percent of UK households bought spirits
reminding all that to be labelled as gin, it
partners who currently grow malting
in 2020, a higher proportion than wine
must be at least 37% ABV and juniper-led.
barley on contract in becoming accredit-
for the first time ever. Diageo, the world’s
ed to the Sustainable Agriculture Initiative
largest spirits company, said its premium
(SAI) Platform’s world-renowned Farm
drinks such as scotch whisky and tequila
Sustainability Assessment (FSA).
brands Casamigos and Don Julio have
A total of 422 of the company’s farming
been particularly popular among house-
partners across Scotland and northern
holds during the pandemic.
England achieved Gold performance level through the FSA.
GO-AHEAD FOR GAOL DISTILLERY
BOMBAY BOTANICALS Eight out of 10 botanicals used in Hamp-
A £15m plan to transform Belfast’s historic
shire-based distillery Bombay Sapphire
Crumlin Road Gaol into a whisky distillery
have been certified as sustainable
has been given the green light by Belfast
by Ecocert, who awarded the Bacar-
City Council, announced the Belfast
di-owned distillery a ‘For Life’ certificate.
Distillery Company.
Bombay is hoping that it will soon be able
BCC’s Planning Committee signed off on
to certified its liquorice from China and its
the application, which will also see part
Grains of Paradise from Ghana. Grains of
of the old prison’s vacant ‘A’ wing turned
Paradise are small, red-brown seeds of
into a tourist centre.
a cardamom-like plant belonging to the
First proposed by lottery winner Peter
ginger family.
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SUMMER 2021
DISTILLERS JOURNAL
COMMENT
KNOW WHERE YOU STAND GIVEN ENOUGH TIME AND EFFORT, MOST DISTILLERS CAN ACHIEVE THEIR GOALS BY THEMSELVES, BUT TIME IS VALUABLE, AND EXPERTS CAN SAVE A LOT OF TIME (AND FEES) IN DOING THINGS RIGHT THE FIRST TIME, EXPLAINS BERT ALBRECHT, MANAGER OF MARKET DEVELOPMENT AT ETHIMEX
W
e are involved in
How it all works on the distillery floor and
the international
in the office is not clear from day one.
trade of bulk
Although there is a lot of information
ethanol and
available on the internet when it comes
premium spirits,
to hands-on issues like these you need to
we import and export alcohol to and from
talk to someone with experience.
the EU, US and globally. It can take some time to go through this, In our UK warehouse, we break bulk into
however, if your supplier has a customer-
more manageable volumes like IBCs,
centric attitude, they will make a real
200L drums and even 25L jerry cans
effort to help and guide the distillers
and distribute to UK spirit bottlers, craft
through the process of understanding the
distillers and drink creators.
correct licensing (e.g. AWRS, WOWGR), the implications on transport and storage
Our team deals with ethanol every day,
of hazardous goods, and other intricacies
and we are familiar with the problems
of the industry.
distillers are facing. Newcomers to the trade go through a steep learning curve
Once the still is up and running, we
about licensing and legislation require-
receive many questions related to ABV.
ments, and they frequently come to us
The concept of LPA (Litre Pure Alcohol)
for help when developing their business
is not always well understood, and it is so
plan.
important when blending.
These new distillers often have a
This also goes for the TCF (Temperature
background that is not related to the
Correction Factor) and shrinkage when
beverage business. As a new company,
diluting ethanol. LPA is also used to
where do you find out about the practical
calculate duty.
workings of paying duty versus deliveries under bond?
Here, you don’t want to get in trouble
Or due diligence with HMRC SEED
with the HMRC for underpaying, but you
checks and the first shipment under
don’t want to pay them more than their
EMCS (Electronic Movement Control
fair share either.
System)?
10
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SUMMER 2021
DISTILLERS JOURNAL
We participate in seminars around these
Today, distillers are not merely looking
topics and are happy to share this on-
for the lowest price but also for support,
the-job knowledge and offer customised
guidance, and fast response times. They
support.
want an outstanding supplier service that
It’s not just newer distillers that need
they can pass on to their custom-ers.
assistance, more established distillers reach out to us when venturing outside
Through years of visiting local distilleries
their area of expertise. It could be for the
and close contact with our customers,
development of a new or unique product.
Ethimex has built up a global network and we relish being active members in
That product may require ingredients
the beverage community. We are here
from particular locations which have strict
to help and maybe even inspire British
legislation in place for their spirits, like
Distillers.
How it all works on the distillery floor and in the office is not clear from day one.”
tequila, or perhaps help is needed to deal with the complexities of importing So-
Ethimex is a privately-held UK-based
chu from Japan as part of a consolidated
company, headquartered in London, with
container load, or simply purchasing bulk
over two decades of experience in the
rum or sugar-cane alcohol that arrived
industrial ethanol and beverage spirits
in vessel via the ARA (Amsterdam-
markets. We supply a comprehensive
Rotterdam-Antwerp) trading hub in the EU.
range of over 40 grades of ethanol, specialised spirits, as well as botanicals
The truth is that, given enough time
and barrels from our specialised divisions,
and effort, most distillers can achieve
Cask Solutions By Ethimex and Craft
their goals by themselves, but time is
Solutions By Ethimex.
valuable, and experts can save a lot of time (and fees) in doing things right the first time.
Privately owned, established over 40 years. Operating to BRC and retail accreditation.
Specialist manufacturers of self adhesive labels. Digital, conventional and combination print facilities including: • Hot foil • Cold foil • Digital spot colours • High build tactile varnish • Embossing • Debossing • Conventional print up to 17 colours Supplying premium soft drinks, beers, wines, spirits, food, toiletries and any market requiring decorative labels. Wood Street, Earl Shilton, Leicestershire LE9 7NE Tel: 01455 844451 www.bslabels.co.uk distillersjournal.info
Contact: Elaine Swingler - 07867 787320 SUMMER 2021
|
11
DON’T RUN RISK OF HMRC FINES FOR COCKTAIL DELIVERIES AS HOME DELIVERIES BOOM, BUSINESSES NEED SPECIAL PERMISSION FROM HMRC FOR THE OFF-SALE OF PRE-MIXED COCKTAILS. HERE, UK LAW FIRM TLT EXPLAINS ALL
C
alled a compounder’s
sold unmixed for mixing at home, only
licence, HMRC can
pre-mixed cocktails.
impose penalties if operators are engaging
“Operators could be in for a nasty
in these practices without
surprise if they are deemed by HMRC
the necessary paperwork. The licence
to have been too slow to make the
is necessary even if a business is mixing
application. There is no charge for
the cocktails at an on-licensed premises,
applying, so subject to complying with
so long as the sale is for customers
the requirements for producing the
elsewhere.
products in accordance with the law, this
The warning comes as bars, restaurants,
is an administrative process only.
pubs and drink brands are increasingly offering cocktail home deliveries as a
“Cocktail makers looking to offer this
way of continuing to trade during the
service will also need a premises licence
pandemic. A number of new pre-mixed
to sell alcohol. For those who already
cocktail brands have also launched over
have a premises licence, they will need
the last year, to cater for the homebound
to ensure they are permitted to provide
consumer.
off-sales without restrictions that would otherwise prevent this activity.
According to HMRC, you are a
“The current temporary Covid
compounder if you “combine or mix
deregulation of off-sales, along with the
plain spirits or previously compounded
suspension of conditions, will assist the
spirits with any other substance, except
majority of premises licence holders, but
water, so as to distinctly alter the
it is worth seeking advice to ensure that
character or flavour of the plain spirits or
this applies where otherwise your licence
compounded spirits, producing a new
would not allow it.”
compounded spirit.” The compounder’s licence also applies HMRC also says: “If you’ve not applied for
in Scotland.
a licence when you should have done, you must let us know without delay.
Stephen McGowan (pictured right),
You’ve the right to appeal if we impose a
partner and head of licensing (Scotland)
penalty.”
at TLT, says: “In addition to the HMRC
COMMENT
permissions, in Scotland if you are doing
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SUMMER 2021
Piers Warne, legal director at TLT, says: “A
home deliveries of cocktails, or any
lot of operators don’t realise they need a
alcohol, this facility should be clearly
compounder’s licence to legally offer this
stated on your premises or occasional
kind of service.
licence under the Licensing (Scotland)
“It has largely flown under the radar, but
Act 2005 to avoid any issues with the
with the recent rise in home deliveries
licensing board. There are also special
of alcohol and specialist cocktail makers
rules you must observe for home
looking to supply their creations directly
delivery, including keeping records and
to consumers at home, the genie is well
following age verification processes.”
and truly out of the bottle.
Businesses can apply for the licence on
Remember this does not apply to spirits
the gov.uk website.
DISTILLERS JOURNAL
STAY ON TOP OF INTELLECTUAL PROPERTY WHETHER YOU’RE JUST STARTING OUT OR LAUNCHING A NEW PRODUCT, THERE ARE A WEALTH OF INTELLECTUAL PROPERTY ISSUES TO CONSIDER IN THE WORLD OF DISTILLING. HERE, CIARA CULLEN, BEN MARK AND SARAH MOUNTAIN FROM RPC, OUTLINE THOSE DO’S AND DON’TS, THE CHANGING LANDSCAPE AND HOW TO THRIVE IN 2021 AND BEYOND.
T
here are a number of
present on product packaging or in
branding dos and don’ts
marketing materials.
when launching a distillery.
Copyright also protects literary work (i.e.
Do: Consider what
text), as long as it meets the test of being
intellectual property rights
the author’s own intellectual creation.
(IPR) you own or might create and how
Marketing slogans, website content and
those IPR might need to be protected.
even product descriptions may therefore
Companies often create more IP than
be capable of attracting copyright
they expect. The main categories are
protection. Copyright does not need to be
Trade marks: A trade mark can consist of
registered, and generally lasts for 70
any sign that can be represented clearly
years from the end of the year in which
and precisely. Whilst packaging shapes,
its creator dies.
colours and even sounds are capable
The owner can use their copyright to
of protection as trade marks, they are
prevent any unauthorised use or copying
typically comprised of signs and/or
of the works.
symbols. Design rights: Design rights protect the The core function of a trade mark is to
appearance of more functional articles,
allow consumers to identify the origin of
provided they are novel.
a product or service and to differentiate it
This could apply, for example, to the
from those of third parties.
various parts of a spirit bottle, such as
Items commonly protected by trade
its overall shape, or just the shape of a
marks include company and product
particular feature, such as the neck.
names, logos, product packaging
Certain design rights are also capable
(including, for example, the shape of
of protecting two dimensional products
spirit bottles), and slogans.
such as patterns and layouts.
Trade marks are useful as they allow
Design rights can be registered or
their owner to prevent competitors from
unregistered, and allow their owners to
using the same or similar marks which
prevent the manufacture and/or sale of
might confuse consumers or suggest an
lookalike products.
COMMENT
association between the two businesses.
distillersjournal.info
Although trade marks can be registered
Patents: these generally protect
or unregistered, it is desirable to obtain
technical “inventions”, for example a
registration as this provides certainty over
new technology which allows a distillery
when the right came into existence and
to make products faster or using an
avoids disputes regarding who began
improved process.
using an unregistered right first.
The registration of a patent can be a
It is also desirable to obtain trade mark
long and expensive process, but once
protection at an early stage, to avoid a
granted, patents provide inventors with a
situation where time and expense has
20 year monopoly.
been invested in a brand, only for a third
It is therefore worth any new business
party to later dispute its use or to apply
considering what IP it may own or create
for registration itself.
and how best to protect it. This will also be helpful if/when that business wants to
Copyright: Copyright arises automatically
seek further investment or to fundraise,
and protects traditionally ‘creative’ works.
as prospective investors will take comfort
Copyright will therefore usually exist
in knowing that the company’s IP is
in company logos and in any artwork
protected.
SUMMER 2021
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Do: Make sure you have appropriate
protected.
regulatory landscape, we would
contractual arrangements in place
Only recently, an alcohol-free sparkling
recommend that they seek pre-product
to ensure that any IP created for the
wine dubbed ‘Nosecco’ was required
launch legal advice.
company (in particular, by third party
to undergo a rebrand as its name was
contractors) belongs to it, so that you can
deemed too similar to ‘Prosecco’, which is
use it and deal with it as you wish. Again
a protected designation of origin product.
prospective investors will be keen to see
‘Low-alcohol’ or ‘alcohol-free’ claims
One of the most significant changes to
that these types of arrangements are in
must also comply with Regulation (EU)
the IP landscape in recent years has
place, to avoid future disputes regarding
No 1169/2011.
been the broadening of the scope of
ownership.
THE CHANGING LANDSCAPE
copyright protection, through a string of Health claims: When preparing
EU cases.
Do: Make sure, when developing your
marketing materials and advertising
new brand, that its use would not infringe
their products, distilleries should be
Their effect is that even more functional
someone else’s IPR. The main things to
particularly wary of making health related
(as opposed to artistic) designs can now
check, before a brand is selected, are
claims, which are heavily regulated under
benefit from copyright protection.
that the proposed company name and
the CAP Code.
any logo are clear and not in use by a
The threshold for a ‘work’ to benefit from
third party, particularly one that operates
Under section 15.6, claims that either
copyright protection is now relatively low,
in the same sector. This will help to avoid
state or imply that a person’s health
so it is worth being especially cautious
disputes and wasted costs on brands that
could be affected by not consuming a
when copying anything from the internet,
subsequently need to be abandoned.
drink are prohibited, as are claims which
even if it is not obviously an artistic work.
Equally, when producing any marketing
state or imply that a drink prevents, treats
materials, do make sure that you have
or cures human disease.
appropriate permissions to use all
For example, Ts & Cs may appear purely functional but may still constitute literary
content (e.g. stock photos, which can
Green claims: Care should also be
works protected by copyright.
often be licensed online for the payment
taken when making ‘green’ claims about
Similarly, the design of a functional item
of a small fee).
products. The ASA released useful
like a spirit bottle may now be protected
guidance in 2020, which highlighted the
by copyright as well as by design rights.
Don’t: Share information about your
importance of being able to properly
This is significant because copyright
company and/or its IPR with third
substantiate any sustainability claims.
protection lasts for much longer.
parties, unless that information is publicly
The Competition and Markets Authority
Also and although not strictly IP-related,
available or you have appropriate
(CMA) is taking a similarly robust stance,
many businesses will be aware of the
documentation in place to protect
announcing that it will investigate
General Data Protection Regulation or
confidentiality (e.g. a Non-Disclosure
descriptions and labels used to promote
‘GDPR’, which came into force in April
Agreement).
products and services claiming to be
2016.
‘eco-friendly’, and whether they could Don’t: Assume that because materials
mislead consumers.
are available online, they are free to use
Any business that processes customer data (including distilleries) should ensure
or copy! Be careful where you take your
Packaging: Under European law, no
that they understand and comply with
inspiration from.
alcoholic beverage containing more than
the requirements of the GDPR, to avoid
1.2 % ABV may make health claims in the
the sanctions and significant financial
LAUNCHING NEW PRODUCTS
EU.
penalties that data breaches can carry.
When new trends take off, it can
Whilst EU law ceased to apply to the
2021 AND BEYOND
(understandably) be tempting to develop
UK, following the expiry of the Brexit
and launch new products as quickly
transition period, on 1 January 2021, this
2020 was challenging across the board
as possible, to satisfy and capitalise on
continues to be a relevant restriction for
but for businesses operating within,
demand. When it comes to naming and
distilleries wishing to sell and promote
or servicing, the hospitality sector, the
promoting a new product, there are
their products in the Eurozone.
impact of the COVID-19 pandemic was
however various pitfalls that it can be
felt particularly acutely.
easy to fall into. The following are most
Allergens: With any consumable
relevant to distilleries:
products, it is essential that all possible
When bars, restaurants and pubs were
allergens are identified, appropriately
forced to close for the first-time, in March
verified and labelled.
2020, many distilleries saw a significant
Naming: When deciding on the allimportant name of a product, care must
percentage of their business dry up
be taken to ensure that it does not sound
If distilleries are uncertain or have any
too similar to goods that are already
questions regarding the applicable
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SUMMER 2021
overnight.
DISTILLERS JOURNAL
Whilst various relief packages were
embracing no and low products like
In the current climate, distilleries should
offered and emergency legislation
never before.
consider the channels through which
passed, second and third lockdowns at
Of those surveyed, 62.5% reported
their products are sold and any direct to
traditionally busy times of the year dealt a
having sampled a low or no product and
customer routes that are available.
heavy blow to the already strained sector.
a quarter regard themselves as ‘semiregular consumers’.
In the post COVID-19 world, greater
Although certain factors like consumer
Year on year, consumers are also
attention is also being paid to contractual
confidence and the progress of the
becoming increasingly ethically and
provisions that were previously thought
COVID-19 vaccination scheme are
environmentally conscious. To satisfy the
of as largely boilerplate and innocuous.
outside the control of businesses,
growing demand for products that are
innovation and versatility will be key
made in a responsible and sustainable
Where new contractual arrangements
components of future success.
way, distilleries should consider who
are entered into or when new
and where they source their ingredients,
agreements are negotiated with key
services and labour from.
suppliers and customers, it will be
Health and wellbeing has been a huge
important, at the outset, for the parties
trend in recent years and the desire to obtain and maintain a healthy mind and
Cross-sector collaborations between
to consider the risk that some or all of
body has only been exacerbated by the
likeminded businesses are also on
them may be unable to perform their
pandemic.
the increase and distilleries should
obligations, in the event of further
give careful thought to the image and
lockdowns or other force majeure events.
For the food and drink sector, this has
message that both they, and those that
resulted in many alcohol brands creating
they work with, present.
offerings.
Ensuring that this risk is properly and fairly apportioned and that appropriate
or adding to their low and no-alcohol Recent events have also changed
contingency plans are in place will help
(possibly forever) the ways in which many
to ensure (as much as is possible) the
A recent poll, commissioned by The
businesses operate. For the food and
continuance of both the contract and the
Portman Group (the social responsibility
drink sector, this has meant a huge surge
parties’ ability to do business with each
and regulatory body for alcohol in the
in home delivery services (independent
other.
UK), found that UK consumers are
and through platforms like Deliveroo).
distillersjournal.info
SUMMER 2021
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15
WHERE SHOULD I BE SELLING AFTER LOCKDOWN? AS WE EMERGE FROM LOCKDOWN, DRINKS BRAND OWNERS MUST HAVE AN EFFECTIVE SALES STRATEGY IN PLACE THAT WILL DELIVER FOR BOTH THEIR BUSINESS AND FOR THEIR CUSTOMERS, EXPLAINS JOE BROUDER, THE FOUNDER AND MANAGING DIRECTOR OF 2EM
T
he Government has
Begin by segmenting your list of
announced its roadmap out
customers into subcategories that
of lockdown. We’re seeing
work for your business. There must be
a phased reopening of the
sufficient detail for you to be able to carry
economy with hospitality
out meaningful analysis, but not so in
businesses reopening from April. Assuming no further lockdowns or
depth that you only have a handful of customers in each subcategory. Some suggested subcategories are:
challenges from new variants of the virus, this summer is set to be one of the
u Independent Free Trade
busiest on record, with pent-up demand
u Multiple Retail Groups
for human contact never before seen.
u Regional wholesale distributors
For many in the hospitality supply chain,
u National wholesale distributors
whether manufacturer, distributor or
u National retail groups
service provider, the revenue from on
u Managed national
trade customers provides a huge chunk
u Regional brewers
of their profitability.
u Leased & Tenanted u HoReCa
If the previous reopenings are anything
u Prestige
to go by, it will be hectic for both on trade operators and for those in the
THE PERFECT CUSTOMER
supply chain. Minimising time-wasting and having more meaningful sales
You might already have a perfect
conversations with the right customers
customer profile set up. In this exercise
has therefore never been as important.
we are going to further define what this perfect customer looks like from a sales
Drinks brand owners must have an
perspective.
effective sales strategy in place that will deliver for both their business, and for
At 2EM we recommend implementing
their customers.
the following grading system:
COMMENT
Luckily, there are a few steps you can
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take to make sure that you and your sales
#1 Permanent stockists / high volume /
team are committing your time to the
brand advocate
right customers.
u Clarify exactly what high volume looks like in your business
CATEGORISE SALES DATA
#2. Permanent stockist as part of the range / reasonable volume
SUMMER 2021
Digging through data has never been
u Clarify what reasonable volume looks
the most riveting of subjects, but it is
like in your business
by getting into the detail that you will
#3. Rotational or guest stockist
understand where your sales are coming
u The customer has bought in last 12
from, and more importantly where they
months
are not.
#4. None stockist
DISTILLERS JOURNAL
u Prospective account who can (and will)
not in ‘buying mode’ right now, there are
buy in the next 12 months
many that are.
Note – Whilst we are just talking about
Summer 2020 saw a boom in trade for
on trade customers here, this system will
those sites who had either (a) outdoor
transfer across your other sales channels.
areas, (b) a quality food offer, (c) nearby public green space, or (d) a premium
The next step is to establish a process for
offer for an affluent demographic working
recording this data within your Customer
from home.
Relationship Manager (CRM) system. This will likely take the form of an
Overlaying some of these criteria onto
automated update or a manual update
the above customer data will allow you
every time one of your sales team visits
to further target the right sites – those
or calls on the customer.
who are most likely to be booming this
This summer is set to be one of the busiest on record,” Joe Brouder, 2EM
summer – without wasting time on the Then, working through your customer
wrong ones.
list, categorise them into one of the four grades above.
Think about what your brand could offer
Compare each sales territory and
to these customers and how you might
complete a smoothing exercise to ensure
support them.
each region is of a similar size, as well as level of responsibility and opportunity.
For example, even if restrictions are lifted consumers are likely to still be wary of
POST LOCKDOWN CUSTOMER
indoor drinking. How could you assist your customer
Now that you have categorised your
in providing something extra for those
customers by channel and by value, you
consumers who wish to take away drinks
have a baseline to work from.
and sit in the nearby park?
Take a look at the distribution of accounts
The future is extremely uncertain at the
across each territory. Using a mapping
moment, with a lot of noise and worry
tool such as BatchGeo can help to
swirling around. But as ever over the
visualise this data.
last year, the most important thing you can do is keep a cool head, think about
Some things to think about:
where the opportunities will lie, and plan,
u Where are you over-indexing? How
plan, plan.
might this affect the salesperson covering this area?
Good luck, and see you on the other side.
u Where are you under-indexing? This might be fertile territory for new business.
Joe Brouder is the founder and Managing
u What routes to market are you showing
Director of 2EM. 2EM works with drinks
as strongest in? Are these the most
brands to accelerate their growth through
profitable RTMs for your brand?
strategy, recruitment and training. Joe’s
u Where are your prestige and top-tier
first book, How to Grow Your Drinks
accounts?
Business, will be published in 2021.
It is imperative you understand where your existing sales come from, in order to see where the opportunity may lie after lockdown. Although many on trade customers are
distillersjournal.info
SUMMER 2021
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17
THE BIG INTERVIEW
DR BILL LUMSDEN
IN MORE THAN 25 YEARS AT THE GLENMORANGIE COMPANY, DR BILL LUMSDEN HAS CREATED A WEALTH OF SEMINAL WHISKIES. AND WHILE THE LAST 12 MONTHS HAVE PRESENTED CHALLENGES TO OVERCOME, HIS MAIN FOCUS REMAINS THE SAME AND THAT’S TO PRODUCE DRINKS THAT PEOPLE ENJOY AND CHERISH THE WORLD OVER.
W
e’ve all been there,
in the Scotch whisky industry stopped
I’m sure.
production for a while, including
Your taxi turned
ourselves,” he recalls. “But we swiftly
up on time, or
realised that as long as we stuck to the
public transport
protocols, and put the relevant safety
ran without a hitch. You’ve navigated through security with a breeze.
|
SUMMER 2021
Within approximately six weeks, the business was up and running once
And be it a holiday, weekend break or
more. While a number of initiatives were
even a work trip, you’re then greeted with
put on hold, the team focused on what
the comforting, warming glow of Airport
they knew best and that was producing,
Duty Free.
bottling and distributing great whisky.
A sensory overload owing to the
“Travel retail was all but wiped out, like
aroma of exotic fragrances, the sight of
it was for the rest of the industry, but
oversized Toblerone chocolate bars and
thankfully our brands are very strong
the chitter chatter from the weary and the
and when you look at off-trade sales, we
wise who are either slowly waking up for
turned in a good performance and ended
their early flight, or fighting off tiredness
up beating our original budget for the
from a long day in transit.
year,” says Dr Lumsden.
And like any good Duty Free concession, there is a beautiful visage. A myriad of
He adds: “I’d like to think we were quite
fine spirits from across the globe and, if
agile at adapting to the circumstances,
you’re lucky, the chance to sample one.
and we made it work for us. Yes, we had some exciting plans we had to delay but
So what if it’s 8am? You’re in the airport
if that’s all we’re complaining about then,
and timezones don’t exist like they do in
guess what, it was not a bad year.
the outside world. “I think we learned a lot about ourselves For many, this particular highlight of air
and as a director of the company, I’m
travel has been consigned to recent
very proud how well we all adapted to
memory. However, that time will arrive
working in these situations.”
once more, that’s for certain. Adapting to testing circumstances is one It comes as no surprise that for many
thing, but refusing to rest on your laurels
businesses in the world of spirits, travel
is something different altogether. And
retail plays an important role in their value
in his decorated career in distilling, Dr
proposition. And losing that sales channel
Lumsden has become synonymous with
is far from an ideal situation.
pushing the boundaries.
For Dr Bill Lumsden, the head of distilling
There’s a saying that goes along the lines
and whisky creation at The Glenmorangie
of “There’s no point having a mind if you’re
Company, the last 12 months in this
not prepared to change it.”
pandemic have presented a number of challenges but he’s proud how his team
The best artists, creators and producers
have not only met them head-on but
have a way of challenging our
overcome them, too.
preconceptions and in doing so, make us look at things in a different way.
“It was obviously a bit of a shock to start off with. Most of the companies
18
measures in place, then we’d be ok.”
passport control expertly then passed
And in creating Glenmorangie Signet, the
DISTILLERS JOURNAL
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SUMMER 2021
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19
distillery’s ground-breaking whisky, Dr Bill
now more commonly known as the
“For me, the biggest surprise of the year
Lumsden did just that.
International Centre for Brewing and
was Wee Beastie. It’s a five year old
Distilling.
whisky, which could be seen as a risk but
Originally launched back in 2008,
of course, I would never in my wildest
Glenmorangie Signet was the first single
In the years that would follow, Dr
imagination allow a product to be bottled
malt to use high roast ‘chocolate malt’
Lumsden held roles as a research
if I didn’t think it was good enough,” he
barley in its production and includes
scientist and also trainee malt distillery
says. “That said, I simply cannot keep
some of the distillery’s rarest whiskies
manager. Joining the Glenmorangie
up with demand for that product. It has
matured in bespoke designer casks.
Distillery in 1995, it wasn’t long before
delighted me, but it also surprised me a
he took up the position of director of
little bit.”
Glenmorangie Signet has gone on to win
distilling, whisky creation and whisky
accolades such as Double Gold in the
stocks at The Glenmorangie Company.
Bottling a whisky that’s five years old, as
San Francisco World Spirits Competition
In doing so, he would head up the
Dr Lumsden says, could be seen as a
in 2018 and remains one of Dr Lumsden’s
production and evolution of whiskies
bold move. But there’s no denying the
proudest creations.
from Glenmorangie and Ardbeg
quality of such a release.
distilleries. A role he has both relished Such success is only fitting then, when
and thrived in during the decades that
He’s more than aware, however, that
you consider for one week each year,
have passed since.
certain decisions in the world of whisky
the stills at Glenmorangie’s distillery are
After all, you don’t take home accolades
can be made without truly considering
dedicated to the creation of this beloved
such as Scottish Distiller of the Year,
the end product. And in doing so, asks
beverage.
Industry Leader of the Year, and Global
if there can be experimentation for
Ambassador of the Year by pot luck.
experimentation’s sake?
But before going on to create these
He explains: “To a certain extent, yes.
disruptive and pioneering whiskies at
And looking back in the past year Dr
But we have very severe restrictions and
Glenmorangie, Dr Lumsden achieved
Lumsden is gratified by the performance
regulations placed on us by the Scotch
a BSc in Biochemistry and Cell Biology
of established products such as
Whisky Association. These are great,
from Glasgow University.
Glenmorangie Original. However a much
don’t get me wrong. They protect the
newer release that is also performing
integrity, quality and reputation of our
He would then start a PhD in
well is Ardbeg Wee Beastie. A 47.4%
brands and our industry.
Fermentation Science at Heriot-Watt
expression matured in ex-bourbon and
University’s Department of Brewing
Oloroso sherry casks, Wee Beastie
“But it does mean some of the wackier
and Biological Sciences, a department
launched in 2020.
things are simply not possible. And you
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SUMMER 2021
DISTILLERS JOURNAL
Glenmorange, based in Tain, Rossshire, produces whiskies enjoyed across the globe
know, the other side of the coin is that
However, in more than 25 years at The
sometimes you see people trying to do
Glenmorangie Company, Dr Lumsden is
things just for the sake of it. And at the
no stranger to genuine innovation.
end of the day my mantra has always been ‘Does the product actually taste good at the end of it?’ And if the answer is no, then what’s the point?” And it’s a particular point of contention, especially when brands are boasting so-called innovations that are, ironically, quite the opposite. “I think there’s an element of that, and previously I’ve actually generated a response from one particular company,” he says. “When I had read how they were going to rule innovation in the world of Scotch whisky, they published a long
We turned in a good performance and ended up beating our original budget for the year,” Dr Bill Lumsden, Glenmorangie
list of things, which in itself was quite
In addition to the aforementioned Signet, you have Quinta Ruban and Allta. The former is matured is a single malt whisky matured in Bourbon Casks then ‘finished’ in ruby port casks. Quinta Ruban is full-bodied and velvety rich in texture, with a long and smooth finish. A more recent expression, Allta, was launched to mark the tenth anniversary of the company’s Private Edition series, It’s also the first Glenmorangie expression created from the yeast which grows wild on the distillery’s Cadboll barley.
unusual, because normally you like to matured in the barrel for a minimum of
And it’s the creation, and production, of
three years before it can be bottled. But
these whiskies that keeps Dr Lumsden
Dr Lumsden adds: “But I read down the
in reality, in my opinion, for good single
ticking.
list and I thought ‘Yes we did that 20 years
malt Scotch, it generally needs a bit more
ago, yes we did that 15 years ago’. So
than that.
keep your powder dry.”
there’s not really anything particularly
“We’ve got a set up in our company where the main focus of the work of
new out there. And the other thing that I
“On top of that, I see people offering their
myself and my team is to ensure the
find intriguing is that, obviously, a lot of
first release at three years old for like
on-going high quality of our core range
these new startup companies are having
£120 pounds a bottle and I think you’re
of whiskies, whether it’s Ardbeg 10 year
to sell their product very young.
having a giraffe here, guys. But if people
old, Glenmorangie Original, or perhaps
feel they want to pay that, then good luck
Glenmorangie Quinta Ruban,” he explains.
“And by law your Scotch whisky has to be
distillersjournal.info
to them.”
SUMMER 2021
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21
“But we also have extensions to the range where we showcase our experimentation and innovation. And,
Does the product actually taste good at the end of it? And if the answer is no, then what’s the point?” Dr Bill Lumsden, The Glenmorangie Company
you know, I genuinely believe we were the first to do many of these sorts of things such as using chocolate malt for Glenmorangie Signet. I’ve also got a couple of really wacky products for Glenmorangie coming out over the next couple of years. So I’d like that we can satisfy the more inquisitive adventurous drinker as well with these ranges.” But for a company has established and proven as Glenmorangie, does Dr Lumsden feel that it always get the credit it deserves? “No, I think I think we don’t get as much as we should get for things like that. And you know, maybe we’re a little bit, not quite shy, but a bit too modest about what we do,” he says. “But you know, there’s so many things we’ve done over the years that are still rolled out now as recent innovations. “That’s why I’m such a great supporter of long established brands. And in the eyes of some people they’re not viewed as sexy brands, but that’s ok, I prefer to let the quality of my whiskies do the talking.” And with the company’s new experimental distillery, Dr Lumsden will be able to let even more of his creations have that particular conversation. The new experimental distillery boasts two full size pot stills which are the same as the other 12 in the main distillery. If Dr Lumsden was so inclined, they can make classic Glenmorangie spirit in them. But that’s not the plan at all. Instead, he is enthused by the ability to create a wealth of different spirit characters. But just how do the stills in the new distillery differ to the main distilleries flagship stills? “With this new setup, we can vary the way we apply the heat to them and therefore can run them at a different rate,” he says. “We also have different condensation mechanisms, and one of the keys to giving your whisky spirit its unique character is the way in which it’s condensed.”
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SUMMER 2021
DISTILLERS JOURNAL
Dr Lumsden adds: “And the two main
warm spice. As its name suggests, this
Lumsden, was delighted by the way his
techniques in the industry are what
whisky’s taste deliciously reflects the
team worked closely with the brand team
we call a shell and tube condenser. So
natural influences of the new wood.
to position ‘A Tale of Cake’ in the market’.
there’s about 200 copper pipes, which
“And when I got the sample in from the
“I recall telling them ‘Look, I can bore the
you pump cold water in. Your spirit very
distillery, the casks had been selected
pants off you’ with complex biochemistry
quickly comes into contact with a large
according to my approved recipe. The
for hours on end, if that’s what you really
surface area of copper, which cleans the
sample comes down to me and various
want. But at the end of the day, all you
spirit up, removes sulphur compounds
other members of my core tasting team
need to know about it is it’s just simply
and condenses it.
to taste.
delicious to taste.
“Or you can have a worm tub, which is a
“And when I did, I thought, “WTF What is
“Thankfully, that’s exactly the approach
huge vat of cold water and your neck of
this?’. I looked at the label and thought,
they took.”
the still goes into that and coils around,
Ah, okay, I know what this is now!”
it’s a large copper column and inside
And going forward, the head of distilling
like a worm or a snake. You’re exposing your vapours to a much smaller surface
An unwavering commitment to quality
and whisky creation is excited about the
area of copper. So consequently you
is one invaluable trait but from speaking
opportunities that await.
make a much more full-bodied spirit.
to Dr Lumsden, another he has in abundance is that he never wants to lose
“We’re rolling out the new brand
“However, the worm tubs take up too
sight of the joy achieved from creating
positioning for Glenmorangie. And as
much space but we have the technology
new whiskies.
always, I have quite a few new products in the pipeline. Building on the success
to mimic that with stainless steel condensers. So I’ve got various ways of
One such example is ‘A Tale of Cake’,
of releases like ‘A Tale of Cake’, we
working on the neck of the still to allow
it’s an expression initially matured in
are working on something similar,” he
me to vary the reflux rate and therefore
bourbon casks before being finished in
explains.
create different spirit characters.”
Hungarian Tokaji dessert wine casks. “Using Tokaji wine casks, I wanted to
“And, you know, it reminds me of a silly
For Dr Lumsden, the absolute sign of
recreate something I had tried more than
comparison. You look at the amazing
success will be discovering something
20 years ago because back, then it didn’t
success Queen had with ‘Bohemian
on the small pilot scale that he can then
work. Back then I left the 10 year old
Rhapsody’. I remember reading an
scale up in the main distillery. He doesn’t
Glenmorangie in the Tokaji casks for too
interview with Freddie Mercury, where he
yet know what that will be. But he knows
long and the tannins from the Hungarian
said they are working on the follow up,
that’s a big personal goal with this new
oak killed the product,” he recalls.
but it took years to come out.
“It rankled with me for quite a while.
“Eventually they released ‘Somebody to
Another such goal is seeing the
So I thought I’m going to repeat this
Love’, which was a homage to that. And
distillery’s travel retail jump back into life
experiment. And I’m going to plan every
for me, that’s what I’m always trying to
once more.
bit of it.”
do. Something similar, a little different,
facility.
but always delicious.”
“It’s a great shop window for your products. And that’s why a lot of
And this time, it turned out just right.
the companies in the industry have developed their own unique travel retail
He says: “Like so many of us, some of
range,” he says. “In fact, we had just
my favourite memories come from cake,
introduced a new range before the world
whether it be helping my granny in her
went into lockdown. We have a 12, 14 and
kitchen, or the pineapple birthday cake
16 year old expressions, all with a slightly
my daughter surprised me with one year.
different cask selection but we haven’t
By finishing whisky in Tokaji wine casks,
quite seen the full success of these yet.”
I’ve captured the joy of those indulgent
Dr Lumsden adds: “But they are in the
cake moments.
LISTEN TO THE FULL INTERVIEW:
marketplace now and we continuing to produce them. In fact I recently approved
“The liquid is a rich copper, but the taste
a bottling of one product, The Elementa.
is pure technicolour – luscious, sweet and complex with multi-layered bursts of
“It had been a while since I had tasted
honey, white chocolate and fruits with a
that release. Taking whisky aged in
hint of mint.”
bourbon casks, we finished it in new charred oak casks for woody depth and
distillersjournal.info
And for that project in particular, Dr
SUMMER 2021
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23
NO AND LOW IS HERE TO STAY
TRENDING
ALCOHOL-FREE SPIRITS ARE MORE THAN A PASSING TREND, WITH THE UK BEING THE WORLD’S LEADING PRODUCER. HOWEVER, IF YOU’RE THINKING OF JUMPING ON THE BANDWAGON, DON’T QUIT THE DAY JOB YET. IT IS ONE TOUGH MARKET OUT THERE AND THINGS HAVE JUST GOT TOUGHER. VELO MITROVICH REPORTS
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SUMMER 2021
J
ust 10-years ago – no, make
On the beer front, the German malt
that five – the vast, vast
brigade has been pushed to the back
majority of those who drank
and now you can find anything from
alcohol-free were recovering
hoppy IPAs to pastry stouts, most of
alcoholics, pregnant women,
which taste shockingly and surprisingly
and designated drivers. Indeed, a
good. Big beer and craft brewers alike
German alcohol-free beer was being
have heard the cash registers jingling
marketed as far back in 1973 as “The car
and are making products with the drinker
driver’s beer”.
in mind who chooses to occasionally drink dry, as opposed to those practicing
Why so few takers? To be brutally honest,
complete abstinence.
they tasted pretty horrible. Barely anyone drank them as a first choice.
This is extremely similar to the plantbased meat market which is not targeting
The offerings were mostly centred on low-to-no-alcohol malty German beers and ‘mocktails’ which in the States had names such as the ‘Shirley Temple’. Orders were whispered to bar tenders
SWOT FOR NONALCOHOLIC SPIRITS
with more embarrassment than being 16 and buying condoms for the first time.
STRENGTHS u Growing market
Non-alcoholic drinks were traditionally
u UK seen as world leader/export
made by taking advantage of alcohol’s
potential
lower boiling point than water. Beer or
u Very few regulations
other alcoholic drinks were brewed in a normal manner, and then boiled until the
WEAKNESSES
alcohol evaporated off. Unfortunately,
u Supermarkets not promoting
the flavour broke down and little of it
u Expensive – little impulse buying
could make it through the process, giving
of bottles
drinks a lop-sided taste with only one or
u Difficult to market without pubs
two strong elements. OPPORTUNITIES However, thanks to modern alcohol-
u Consumers drinking more and
removing technologies which has been
want better choices
improving each year since 2015, those
u 30 percent of 16-26-years-old do
days are gone. And in fact, many makers
not drink
of zero-alcohol spirits no longer use any
u At home experience not being
production steps which produce alcohol.
touched
If you look at any of the growing number of UK online bottle shops specialising
THREATS
in low-to-no such as Dry Drinker, Sober
u Crowded marketplace
Sauce or Wise Bartender, you will see
u Shelf space taken by big players
that choices now number in the hundreds
u Low-no beer more popular
of low-to-no beers, spirits, wines, ciders and kombucha.
DISTILLERS JOURNAL
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SUMMER 2021
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vegans but instead ‘flexitarians.’ These
alcohol than the UK, they’ve found that
make a spirit with rattlesnake poison and
are consumers who sometimes eat meat,
Americans are drinking less during the
the first year you sell no bottles and the
and sometimes choose to not. Why go
current pandemic, increasing the sales of
second year one, you didn’t have a sales
after three percent of the UK population,
low-to-no.
increase of one percent, you had a sales increase of 100 percent. Can you imagine
when there is another 97 percent to Unlike former US President Donald
tempt.
the headlines!
Trump who had a massive red button In the States – the world’s largest market
on his desk to instantly order a Diet
Considering that alcohol-free spirits are
for of low-to-no – they’re finding that the
Coke, many of those choosing to drink
a very recent development, the slightest
major alcohol-free beverage consumers
less alcohol still want to have a drink
number of sales leads to percentages
are those under 30 and those over 65.
that tastes like it’s been made for an
being driven through the roof. What are
It cuts evenly across the sexes, with no
adult. Alcohol-free spirit producers are
the real figures? That can be a challenge
research group finding 0% ABV drinks
responding in kind.
to find due to non-alcoholic beverages not falling under the same regulations
being the domain of one sex. “It’s similar in the UK,” says Crossip’s
While the alcohol-free spirit front has
and data collection as alcoholic drinks.
been lagging well behind the low-to-
But, based on data from CGA, it appears
founder Carl Anthony Brown. “Sixty-five
that for every single nine-litre case of
percent of Millennials are reducing their
non-alcoholic spirits sold, 2,132 cases of
alcohol intake with 23 percent of under
regular spirts are sold.
25s being teetotal. We find that our most popular age group is around 25 to
Second, many of the headlines are
50-year-olds. I can’t say we specifically
generated by commercial companies
target one group of people…our goal is to give anyone cutting back drinking or stopping an amazing option.” Andrew Stacey of Herbarium says that the demographics of their consumers is something they need to continue to review from a marketing point of view. “The challenge we have is that from feedback so far, a broad age range really like Herbarium Distillation 29 – we have people in their early twenties right up to 80 enjoying the product,” says Stacey. “There is a lot of data out
Sixty-five percent of Millennials are reducing their alcohol intake with 23 percent of under 25s being teetotal,” Carl Anthony Brown, Crossip
that sell industry reports costing anywhere from £500 to £2,500. All tend to make five-year predictions – all positive spins to sell reports – which are all impossible to prove. Despite the hype, alcohol-free spirits distillers are finding it a tough market for various reasons. A study by the Diageobacked Distill Ventures found there are three huge challenges the no-ABV category faces: “Liquid excellence, education and the drinking experience.” With these three, cost has to be added.
there to suggest a particular age group/
Abbie Lysaght-Mason of Crossip say that
demographic etc, but for now we simply
it is always a difficult nut to crack with any
want everybody to enjoy the product.”
no beer market, big leaguer Gordon’s
new product.
has released an alcohol-free version You might think going by the media and
of its gin, with Tanqueray close on its
“Engaging with new consumers and
commercial reports that if low-to-no
heels. The UK is the world leader in the
getting impartial feedback to pass on
beer is doing well, alcohol-free spirts
production of alcohol-free spirits, with
to perspective buyers is important. We
are coming on strong like gangbusters.
42 in the market as of January 2021, as
have also tried to showcase drinks and
Statistics being thrown about show an
opposed to 29 in the States. Since that
recipes to illustrate the uses that can be
increase of a whopping 400 percent
magic year of 2015 when Seedlip hit the
achieved.
in alcohol-free spirits since 2019, with
market, overall the low-to-no market has
predictions stating this rise will continue
grown by over 500 percent. Is this it then for the alcohol industry?
type of consumer, which means they are more likely to ‘take the plunge’.”
In 2019, Nielsen reported that two-thirds of all Millennials want to reduce their
“We’ve found that the general consumer for non-alcoholic drinks is an ‘explorer’
for at least the next five years.
No, not even close. With low-to-no beer, wine and cider,
alcohol consumption and Berenberg Investment called Gen Z the Generation
First things first. Percentages are useful
there is no one trying to reinvent the
of Sobriety. In the States, which has
to fool reporters and make headlines, but
wheel. Open a can of any low-to-no
always had a different attitude towards
not to base business decisions on. If you
beer and guess what, it tastes like beer.
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DISTILLERS JOURNAL
There are a wealth of choices on the market for drinkers that want spirits without the alcohol
Herbarium’s Steve Brown (L) and Andrew Stacey (R)
which does not have at least 37.5% ABV
of Gordon’s in a delicious alcohol-free
in it. However, there are no standards
alternative.
forbidding Gordon’s from taking a bottle and label, which look like its regular gin,
“This special distillation process is a
and using it for Gordon’s 0.0 ABV.
closely guarded secret, known only to a handful of people and we are incredibly
The world’s best-selling London dry gin
proud to be bringing gin drinkers that
It might not taste exactly what you were
producer can afford to produce and sell
juniper led taste they’re expecting from
expecting, the mouthfeel is different but
its no-alcohol version at only £12 per 70cl
Gordon’s when they choose not to drink
it looks, smells and tastes like beer. With
bottle, two pounds cheaper than regular
alcohol.”
beer, no one is trying to create a totally
Gordon’s. In taste tests, most agree there
new and different taste that doesn’t taste
are similar tastes to regular Gordon’s and
With Gordon’s being part of Diageo – as
like anything comparable on the market.
the majority liked it.
is Tanqueray – who’s stable of drinks
With alcohol-free spirits, you’re entering
Anita Robinson, marketing director
it’s hard seeing any other no-alcohol
a totally different world. There are some
Diageo GB tells us: “Our expert innovation
spirit having the same possible impact as
like the forementioned Gordon’s and
team at Gordon’s has combined years
Gordon’s 0.0.
Tanqueray which are trying to duplicate
of expertise and historic gin distilling
Without being able to squeeze onto
exactly the taste of an existing product of
knowledge to create a credible alcohol-
those hard-contested supermarket
theirs – like Heineken’s 0.0% beer – and
free experience.
shelves and along with current COVID-19
have a firm hold on supermarket shelves,
cannibalise their existing customers.
restrictions not allowing pubs or “Gordon’s 0.0% is created by distilling
restaurants to open, for perspective
One massive advantage the big players
the same botanicals used in Gordon’s
drinkers to try 0% ABV spirits, marketing
have is that they have established
London Dry Gin. These botanicals are
has been a huge challenge.
alcohol versions already on the market.
individually immersed in water, heated
For example, it is against UK and EU
and then distilled before being expertly
Many are utilising Facebook but, as
trading standards to call something gin
blended together to capture the essence
Crossip’s Brown says, Facebook doesn’t
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DISTILLERS JOURNAL
always work. “They keep blocking us
alcohol spirits. Lyre’s has been extremely
in place of gin, whisky, rum or mescal.
because they think we are alcohol, they
successful in carving an international
While the distillers are not trying to
can’t seem to pick up the word ‘No’.
market with this method, producing
duplicate 100 percent an existing spirit’s
Social media on the whole is our most
drinks with very similar taste to spiced
flavour, they are trying to duplicate 100
important way to spread the word.”
rums, gins, whiskies and others.
percent an existing spirit’s usage. For
Herbarium says that Facebook is
“The whole basis of Lyre’s was an ode
is they know what to do with them. “I
definitely a platform that they are utilising
to the original products,” says CEO
know I’m not buying gin, but I can use
and will be exploring other advertising
Mark Livings. “We really want to make
this exactly like gin.”
opportunities.
our spirits as close as possible to the
consumers, the beauty of these products
originals, re-creating their true flavour
An example of this is Crossip which was
From observation, Distillers Journal
so they can be easily substituted in their
created by Carl Brown, an award winning
notices that Facebook by using its
favourite mixed drinks.
cocktail expert.
analytics, knows when a user expresses the slightest interest in anything and
“We wanted to establish what categories
sells the person’s name on to as many
are out there in the no-alcohol spirit
like-companies as possible. A customer
world currently and how we can
you helped develop on Facebook,
define ourselves. We felt there’s the
suddenly becomes available to all your
‘Replacement’ who are copying individual
competitors as well. “COVID-19 has definitely had a marketing impact, preventing us from getting out and promoting the product, but we have social media which is even more effective in these challenging times. Online sales are definitely going to play a key part until restrictions start to relax,” says Stacey. “For a customer to purchase to get that initial sip, we have to encourage recommendations, reviews and word of mouth to give customers the confidence that they’re buying a quality flavoursome drink that will meet and hopefully exceed their expectations.”
WATCH THAT NAME
People might want to change their own drinking styles or preferences in regard to alcohol, but they won’t need to in relation to flavour,” Mark Livings, Clean Co
alcohols such as rum, whisky etc. The ‘Clear Botanical’ are those that are targeting gin lovers – this is the largest, most popular group. And there are the ‘Euphorics’ who are going for the health benefit approach,” says Brown. “We felt that we stood apart, so love us or hate us, we are ‘Unapologetically bold’ and are flavour lead. This encompasses, flavour, taste and texture, thinking about the quality of your finished drink.” Then there are those distillers who have gone completely out of the box and are creating completely new tastes. In Facebook ads, photos of the founders seem to favour them holding a glass of their creation and then looking off to a distant horizon. Feragaia says that it is a
The Gin Guild claims it has secured the
“life changing drink”.
withdrawal or re-marketing of several low ABV drinks incorrectly described
“When people are having a gin and tonic
as gin, and has now established a
or a Negroni, or whatever it may be, it
Because the taste are so different,
partnership with Buckinghamshire &
should still taste the same as it would
the first sip is similar to most people’s
Surrey Trading Standards to clamp down
have if it was an alcoholic version. People
first unsure taste of Campari. It’s only
further. One that it went after was ‘Clean
might want to change their own drinking
going back for a second sip or through
Gin’, produced by Made in Chelsea’s star
styles or preferences in regard to alcohol,
experimenting with different mixes do
Spencer Matthews company Clean Co.
but they won’t need to in relation to
you come to appreciate what the distiller
flavour,” he says.
was hoping to achieve. But, are most consumers willing to have that second
Although on its bottles Clean Co call its
sip?
1.2% ABV drinks ‘CleanG’ or similar, on
While some no-alcohol spirits provide
Clean Co’s website they’re still referred
cocktail recipes, Lyre’s goes one further
to as CleanGin, CleanRum, etc, as they
and better. Buy a bottle for £24 and you
Without the mouthfeel of a drink with
try to match the flavour of the alcoholic
get a free 15-minute, one-on-one session
alcohol, they can be too similar to
drink.
with a mixologist.
drinking water with flavouring. While the makers of Herbarium come out and say
Much like Clean Co, others are choosing
There are alcohol-free distilleries who
that their product is not meant to drink
this approach of copying existing
are making products meant to be used
straight, it is a guarantee that most will
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SUMMER 2021
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29
try it this way for only then will they know
huge whack of tax on a standard bottle of
flavour comes from distillation? As Mark
how to use it in a mock-cocktail.
spirits. So the £25 price of a bottle of no/
Livings of Lyre’s points out, it’s been a
low spirit is very largely made up of profit,
long, long time since an actual carriage
With those breaking new ground in
distilled and then conjured by clever
was driven on our carriageways.
tastes, what Distillers Journal sees as
marketing mixology,” he says.
Although the EU has recently backed the dairy industry in its quest to not allow
vitally important is including with each bottle recipes for at least three perfect
With the current lockdown restrictions
the term ‘milk’ to apply to soya, almond,
drinks.
and not being able to sample a non-
oat, or rice-based beverages, it’s how
alcoholic spirt at a pub, restaurant, or
consumers refer to – and use them.
For example with Herbarium, by itself it
store display, distillers are asking for a
tastes just short of horrible. With tonic
huge leap of faith with customers parting
It’s hard to believe now but just 12-years
water it’s good, but with tonic, grapefruit
with £25 for something completely
ago the only non-dairy milk-like
juice and tonic, it is truly outstanding
different than anything they have
beverage in the UK was Alpro made from
and could be the drink of the summer.
experienced.
soya. Today Sainsbury stocks around
However, not all drinkers have the
If this was a perfect non-pandemic
70 different options. In the meantime,
same assortment of fruit juices, tonics
world with pubs, bars and restaurants
reduced demand for cow’s milk and
and the like, as The Distillers Journal to
opened, bartenders would be operating
falling prices led to the closure of 1,000
experiment with. This work should be
as ambassadors to these new spirits,
dairy farms in the UK between 2013-2016.
done for them before the first bottle is
showcasing to the curious their potential
Despite the massive difference in units
sold.
well beyond events like Dry January. As
sold between alcoholic and alcohol-
it is, there is no drink education taking
free beverages, after 4,000 years our
place.
relationship with alcohol is beginning
If the taste isn’t a bit off-putting, then
changing. Much like how plant-based
there is the cost, which averages around £25 a bottle. You pay anywhere from £2
The lack of education is also affecting
burgers, chicken, and fish are challenging
to £4 for a low-to-no beer, you might
supermarkets. While Tesco’s online
how we view animal protein, low-to-no
not care for it, but it doesn’t stop you
shows numerous alcohol-free products,
will ultimately do the same with alcohol.
from trying others. Companies have their
it’s a challenge finding them at even
reasons for their high costs, however,
Tesco’s Superstores. When a store
The question is, with global liquor
some disagree and question whether the
employee, who was stocking the drinks
behemoths such as Diageo, Pernod
public is just being had.
section, was asked where to find the
Richard and William Grant moving into
alcohol-free drinks, the question drew a
the sector, will there be room for anyone
blank look.
else? Last August, Diageo acquired a
In 2015 Ben Branson launched Seedlip,
majority stake in non-alcoholic spirits
which was the world’s first non-alcoholic spirit and which has changed forever
THE FUTURE
brand Seedlip, while Pernod Ricard has a partnership with non-alcoholic gin maker
the low-to-no market. Branson set many standards with Seedlip, including its
Brown of Crossip sees the low-to-no
price, which all others seem to use as a
spirit industry as still being in its infancy
benchmark.
stage.
Ceder’s. Mark Livings of Lyre’s sees an advantage in being small, which allows Lyre’s to
Branson told The Grocer that he knows it
“We are only just starting to see
move quickly to take advantage of a
is expensive, but feels justified in its price
subcategories appearing and the
market. In about the same time it took
due to the costs incurred in making a
consumer needs time to establish what
Gordon’s to produce its one alcohol-free
bottle, which takes six-weeks. Between
they like,” he says. There is so much room
drink, Lyre’s has come out with 13.
sourcing single-origin ingredients,
for growth and the category/subcategory
distilling each one separately, and then
to evolve. We are already lined up to
“We always intended to run this business
removing the alcohol needed in the
be in a number of bars, we believe the
as an explosive Silicon Valley tech-style
process to capture and concentrate the
;mixology and pub’ community could
company where we move incredibly
flavour, it all adds up.
really create some amazing drinks with
quickly, we run the business prioritising
Crossip.”
speed over efficiency, and then we look to optimise the business down the track,”
However, the BBC’s Scotland Business/
he told the Australian Financial Review.
economy editor, Douglas Fraser,
In talking with some of the modern
disagrees completely in regards to
creators of low-to-know, there are
Seedlip and William Grant & Sons ‘Atopia’.
questions as to how consumers will view
As we all know, however, the race doesn’t
the term ‘spirit’ in the near-future as low-
always go to the fastest, but to the one
“Both are audaciously trying the trick of
to-no makes more of an impact.
with the greatest staying power. The
setting a price point comparable with
Will ‘spirits’ mean only a distilled drink
Distillers Journal will continue to examine
spirits, even though they don’t carry the
with alcohol, or any drink that part of its
this changing market.
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SUMMER 2021
DISTILLERS JOURNAL
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MAKE GIN NOT COMPROMISES WITH A NOD TO THE PAST AND A LOOK TO THE FUTURE, SIPSMITH CONTINUES DOING WHAT IT DOES BEST. VELO MITROVICH REPORTS
I
In the world of beer, some
with anyone who asked.
breweries seem to have adopted the idea that if you want to get
So, the last thing Brown wants to do is to
noticed, you brew to shock, not
knock any other gin distillery – it is not in
to drink. There is an almost-black
his blood to do so.
blueberry IPA so thick, you can pour it on
But cotton candy flavoured gin? While
pancakes.
his words say one thing, his eyes tell you
A sour, so tart and vinegary tasting, that
something entirely different. “WHAT ARE
the kid tending bar warns you that he has
THEY THINKING?” they seem to shout.
never seen anyone finish taster, let alone a pint.
Sipsmith – a play on the word
And in the States, one brewery is trying
‘silversmith’ – is wrapped in a bundle of
to get its Carolina Reaper infused beer
contradictions. As traditional as its views
declared the world’s hottest.
of flavour are, it has also changed gin
MEET THE DISTILLER
from being something associated with
32
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SUMMER 2021
Until recently with gin, for a distillery to
the late Queen Mum, to being the drink
add much more than standard botanicals
of those under 30.
for flavouring it was considered a walk on the wild side.
It was bought out in 2016 by Beam
However, this is no longer the case with
Suntory with the main changes to
gins being flavoured with cotton candy,
business being distribution suddenly a lot
strawberry & cream and even violets –
easier for the team.
which leaves you wondering if the legal
And, from being once the only craft gin
age for alcohol has suddenly dropped
distillery to now being surrounding by
to 14.
hundreds of competitors, it still marches to the beat of its own drummer, like no
You ask Jared Brown, one of the three-
one else is around. It will be 12-years
founders of Sipsmith and the force
this May that Sipsmith became the first
behind the Sipsmith taste, about this
cooper pot distillery to open in London
trend. There is a slight hesitation before
since 1820.
he answers. As with all things, Sipsmith started with Sipsmith’s distillery was ground zero
an idea. Cornwall childhood friends
for the UK’s craft gin industry. It was
Fairfax Hall and Sam Galsworthy were
Sipsmith that successfully challenged
working separately in the States in the
the law regarding still size that had been
drinks industry.
in the books for nearly 200 years. It was
Meeting up, they reaffirmed their love for
Sipsmith that created the whole idea of
a good G&Ts, made an observation of the
modern craft gin.
rise of craft distilleries and breweries in the USA, and wondered how this could
It was Sipsmith that went back to gin’s
play out in London.
roots and re-established its potential. This list can go on and on and on.
In dictionaries the word ‘optimist’ must be illustrated with a drawing of Hall and
In everything they did, they never
Galsworthy. They had no distillery site, no
patented any processes and in fact did
master distiller – no distiller at all for that
the opposite, sharing their knowledge
matter – no still, and the biggest obstacle
DISTILLERS JOURNAL
of all, they didn’t have a license to distil.
What had been holding everyone else
You have to wonder, at any one point did
back was the Excise Act of 1825, which
they realise why there hadn’t been a craft
stated no person shall keep a still of less
gin distillery in London for over 200 years.
than 400 gallons. Although there are numerous amusing
No worries. In 2007 they sold their flats
stories out there as to why this figure was
and went for it.
decided on, it had to do with tax. A still smaller than 400 gallons was portable,
They commissioned a small, family-
making it more difficult for the taxman to
owned still firm in Germany to construct
get his due.
‘Prudence’ and, through purely a serendipitous event, found their distiller.
A year before Sipsmith, Chase Distillery had been after a similar licence, which
Making gin is like conducting an orchestra of botanicals,” Jared Brown, Sipsmith
At a Negroni Club party at the Beefeater
had been denied, forcing them to buy a
distillery, they were introduced to the
much larger still.
husband and wife team of Jared Brown
For other want-to-be distillers, this
managed to get a provision license, the
and Anistatia Miller who were not only
pushed the dream financially out of
first in nearly 200 years.
drinks writers and historians, they also
reach.
“And it was that that opened the
had experience in running a small
“If you were trying to get a license for a
floodgates for others to get provisional
distillery.
still under 1800 litres, if your application
licenses. And it exploded. Early on, the
was denied – which every application
phone was ringing off the hook from
The couple had just relocated from the
was denied on first round for misplaced
people who wanted to do it, and we
States and they were living close to
commas and apostrophes – you had no
helped more of them to start up than I
Hammersmith where Prudence had just
recourse to appeal because of the still
can count,” he says.
found a home. Brown was brought on as
size,” says Brown.
master distiller. The team now complete, the rest fell into place – eventually.
distillersjournal.info
This means that while with Scottish or “Sam and Fairfax and lawyers and family
Irish whisky distilleries, 12-years is the
and friends and MPs took that on and
age of their whisky in a barrel – not their
SUMMER 2021
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33
Jared Brown: Sipsmith’s master distiller
relatively easy to make, requires no longterm barrel aging and – depending on one’s ambitions – investment is generally lower for gin. Outside of the big players and a small number of craft distilleries, the base alcohol or ‘neutral spirit’ is made elsewhere. In theory then, gin makers are more ‘redistillers’ than distillers. You can take a gin distillery class in the morning and literally be drinking your gin by the evening. But, while making gin is a breeze, making good gin is anything but. Which then begs the question: What makes a good gin? distillery – the rebirth of craft gin is a
says Brown. “If you look at the enduring
recent development.
dominance of whisky, gin at one time was
This is almost hard to believe considering
up there and then gin fell out of favour.
the hundreds of craft gin distilleries today
LEAD FLAVOUR “Ah…first it has to lead with juniper, but
in the UK – or the hundreds that used to
“Today, gin is simply returning. When we
that’s a bit like saying wine is made with
exist in the 19th century.
started, there were 12 distilleries making
grapes,” says Brown.
20 brands of gin in Britain. New HMRC figures show a record
“This is the spirit of England – born
According to the master distiller, gin has
number of distilleries were registered
in London – and there were only 12
to be made with juniper from the north
in the UK in 2020 – growing by over 124
distilleries making it! Think of that in
Mediterranean. While the juniper plant
in 12 months – for the first time, with
IPA terms. Imagine a time in the history
grows sub-Arctic to sub-tropic all the way
Covid-19 failing to put the brakes on
of IPA, when there were only a dozen
around the northern hemisphere, only
the distillery boom. This figure is up 28
breweries making it.”
in the north Mediterranean do you have
percent on 2019, doubling the number
the terroir that produces that particular
of UK distilleries in four years, for a total
Doug Hunter, Sipsmith’s head of
flavour of soft pine, sweet citrus that
number of over 560.
operations in London and formerly of
comes up in good gin.
Fuller’s, agrees with Brown. Remarkably, the number of distilleries in
“Sipsmith is now becoming a much
“I’ve worked with juniper from Britain, it
England has almost tripled since 2016,
more established brand, but I think what
tastes like moss. I’ve worked with juniper
which was the same year that the gin
Sipsmith captured when they started was
from the American Rockies. It’s intensely
boom helped the number of English
the reintroduction of gin as our national
sweet, almost a bubble gum, with that
distilleries overtake Scotland for the first
drink. That had been lost somewhere,”
particular flavour underlying. So for me, I
time, according to the Wine & Spirit Trade
says Hunter.
will only work with juniper from the north
Association.
Mediterranean. “Gin was incredibly unfashionable; that
In another first, England’s distillery
was simply because people weren’t
“But what more broadly makes a good
numbers have now passed 300, with 311
drinking very good gins at the time. That’s
gin, the satiation point in the glass?” says
registered distilleries in 2020.
where Sipsmith can take a great level of
Brown. “I can make a product that will
Scotland has increased its number
credit, in that they captured the essence
blow you away on first sip.
of distilleries to 214, and Wales and
of making the best gin that you could in a
“But you can’t get through a glass of it.
Northern Ireland saw distillery numbers
traditional method.”
And so, I always want the satiation point
grow too.
to be somewhere just below the stem of One of the reasons for the higher
that glass, or just below the bowl, just at
“Personally, I think that gin is simply
proportion of new gin distilleries opening,
the stem.
recovering its own position in the market,”
compared to other spirits, is that gin is
“So when you finish that, it seems like it
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DISTILLERS JOURNAL
limited release.
because the outfit had gone “corporate”.
overloaded and washed out and blown
“One of the rules that I’ve had both in
Indeed, in looking at buy-outs around
away.”
the distillery and as judge of countless
the world, there seems to be a fine
cocktail competitions around the world
line as to whether selling part or all of
is, when you feel like you’ve nailed it,
a craft company to a major player is
“What makes a great gin is a gin built on
schedule an evening, sit down with a
the kiss of death in quality, or simply
the classic structure of gin. You can make
friend and have three,” says Brown.
makes a product more available to more
might be a good idea to just have one more, that your taste buds haven’t been
customers.
amazing spirits, the sky’s the limit in creative combination of botanicals.
“Have a good beer. People who go to a
“But if you want to call it a gin, then
pub, they’ll have three of them. A cocktail,
With Sipsmith, as they drove around the
there is structure to that. A bit like the
people will go to a bar, they’ll have three.
streets of London making gin deliveries
difference between modern interpretive
If you can’t drink three of what you’ve
off the back of a scooter, they must have
dance and classical ballet. And when you
created.
thought there had to be a better way.
want ballet, you don’t want them busting
“What was the point in creating it? If you
out with garbage can lids and doing
can’t get past that first sip and that first
The dream the founders had was fairly
Stomp.
sip is truly amazing, find me a success
simple: To be available in a meaningful
where it will only ever be that one sip.”
way throughout the gin-loving world, and
“So that’s really what I personally strive
to be around in 200-years’ time.
for, is to build on the wisdom of the
By 2016, Sipsmith had 35 staff and was
collective generations of the master
growing at 60 to 70 percent a year,
distillers who came before me,” says
with exports at 30 percent, but the
Brown.
perception was Sipsmith was failing at
“What I quickly found out that making
the international market, having had
gin is like conducting an orchestra of
difficulties with three distributors.
botanicals. Brass, woodwinds, percussion and violins, and getting them in harmony. This is the toughest thing I’ve ever done in distillation.” To accomplish this, Brown and his wife Anistatia Miller poured over gin recipes from the 19th century and earlier, to define in taste what exactly is gin. Recipes that Brown and his wife found in the Distiller of London, (published in
When you feel like you’ve nailed it, schedule an evening, sit down with a friend and have three,” Jared Brown, Sipsmith
To get to where they thought Sipsmith should be, in 2016 they sold a majority stake for a reported £50 million to Beam Suntory. At the time of the sale, Jonny Forsyth, global drinks analyst at the market analysts Mintel, said it was no surprise that Beam Suntory had bought Sipsmith as the major spirits producers recognised they faced a challenge from fast-growing
1639), were written in two different codes.
craft brands.
Even with her Masters in History at
“Millennial consumers, in particular, really
Oxford and a second in paleography
SELLING-UP OR SELLING-OUT
value small-batch heritage spirit brands rather than big brands with a more
and cryptography, it took Miller a year to decipher, thanks in no part to someone
In talking with Logan Plant, founder
mainstream audience.
translating it in 1667 and getting it wrong.
of Beavertown Brewery in London, he
“It is a lot like the craft beer where we’ve
explains it as simply of this. Beavertown
seen big brands say ‘it’s time we bought
One of the recipes has juniper berries,
could continue on as it was and in a good
these brands before they become big
lemon peels, orange peels, and spice
few years, he’d have enough revenue to
competition’.”
supported. As Brown says, it’s practically
finally do with it what he always dreamed
The outcome? In an informal survey,
modern London Dry Gin except after
– creating a new brewery and visitor
Distillers Journal could find no long-time
distillation, it was rested on raspberries
centre in the form of Beaverworld. Or,
fans of Sipsmith who noticed anything
and strawberries and sweeten a touch.
he could bring in Heineken as a minority
different over the years except that it
partner and the dream could happen
maybe got better. And, it’s a lot easier to
now.
find Sipsmith elsewhere in the world.
gin came to England via English sailors
As logical as that decision was, some
“I think a lot of credit goes down to the
serving on Dutch ships during the Thirty
beer fans called the brewery a sell-
founders of the business,” says Hunter.
Years War. Sipsmith has followed this
out and some bottle shops made the
“There were a lot of people interested in
recipe and created a pink gin that had a
decision to not stock Beavertown beer
buying Sipsmith at the time I think every
What Brown finds exciting about this recipe is that it predates the idea that
distillersjournal.info
SUMMER 2021
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35
major spirits company was interested in
Sipsmith could have making 9,000 liter
“They’re looking for different things,
or they expressed an interest at some
batches but they choose to make only
but what they’re looking for more than
point or another.
300 liters.
anything else is the quality of the spirit
In the 1870s, Brown says that distillers
that they’re drinking to be as good as it
“But what the guys did was that they
worked out how they could be making
possibly can be and they’re prepared to
picked a partner [Beam Suntory] that
more money, cranking out the 9,000 liter
pay a premium for that.
they felt would allow them to have a level
batches at the expense of quality.
of autonomy. And the important thing
“If you’d have told me, as someone who
about Sipsmith is, Sipsmith is run as an
“But we stuck with what they had settled
worked at brewery 15 years ago, that
autonomous business unit. It has its own
into in the 1850s, which to me is when gin
someone will walk into a pub in London
board.
was perfected, when gin hit that pinnacle
and pay 10 pounds for a pint, I would
“The reporting structure is still the
of quality that we aspire to,” he says.
have laughed at you.
the managing director or CEO, and Sam
Although Prudence has been joined
“But the reality is, that is the case. And
is the chairman. Jared is still very, very
by two other ‘sister’ stills to increase
gin is no different. People will pay an
much on board from a liquid perspective
production, there has still been days
appropriate price for a very, very good
and being really one of the major faces of
where they can’t produce enough gin to
liquid.”
the brand.”
meet demand.
founders. One of our founders, Fairfax, is
Considering that you find Sipsmith on “They allow us to run the model as we
the top row of shops, with a price tag to
wish to…if anything, they encouraged us
match, this says a lot to how gin drinkers
to keep doing what we’re doing,” he says.
perceive Sipsmith.
CRAFT OR MAINSTAY
According to Hunter, spirit consumers are
LISTEN TO THE FULL INTERVIEW:
much more discernible today. Looking If you ask Jared Brown if Sipsmith is still a
back at the gin range from 20-years-ago,
craft gin or become mainstay, you should
gin was pretty bland, the same as with
go to the toilet first, pour yourself a coffee
beer.
– or gin – and get comfortable because you’re in for a long answer.
“What we’ve seen now is that [the industry] has exploded, and that’s a good
However, it can be summed up in this.
thing because consumers have choice,”
From the beginning with Prudence,
says Hunter.
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DISTILLERS JOURNAL
THE NATURAL CHOICE
CONSUMERS ARE MAKING CRITICAL CHOICES IN GOING TOWARDS “NATURAL INGREDIENTS” IN THE FOOD & DRINK THEY CONSUME. WITH THAT, THERE HAS BEEN A HUGE RISE IN NEW PRODUCTS BEING INTRODUCED TO THE MARKET, EXPLAINS NATURAL INGREDIENTS SUPPLIER KANEGRADE.
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Factors such as pH, heat and light
Typically these are vegetable and fruit-
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Each colour is matched with an
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Pigments are extracted and standardised
38
|
SUMMER 2021
alternative to titanium dioxide.
DISTILLERS JOURNAL
FLAVOURS: LIQUID OR POWDER Almond
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FLAVOURS
team who work closely with clients to create innovative bespoke ranges
Flavours on offer can boost existing
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unique flavour to your finished product. The company works with its customers They are available as liquid or powder,
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SUMMER 2021
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MEET THE DISTILLER
BUILT ON SOLID FOUNDATIONS
S
ome things are just meant
Attempts to procure more of the
to be.
spirit online failed so, in a throwaway
For some of us, our journey
comment to his friend and former
in rum starts and ends with
colleague, Noyce suggested the duo
something like Barcadi. Or
started a rum club for fellow fans.
maybe we’ve dabbled with the beverage known as Navy rum, the blend that
“We started it as a hobby back in 2015
traditionally features rums from places
but it gave us a real insight into the rum
such as Jamaica, Barbados and Trinidad.
scene, both here and overseas,” Noyce says. “It was never going to set the world
What we drink is our prerogative, of
alight but the knowledge we absorbed
course. But it also makes complete
by doing it was invaluable.”
sense that two former members of the navy, boasting more than 60 years’
Talk of selling other people’s rums,
experience between them, would end
eventually, turned to the faint possibility
up starting their own distillery.
of giving it a go themselves.
Where else? In a fort surrounded by the
“We both had a few drinks and I think we
sea and centuries of naval history, of
were maybe semi-serious at best,” he
course. And as seasoned advocates of
recalls. “But then I was made redundant
great rum, they want to show consumers
in August 2017. I told Giles that if we
just how good UK-made rum can be.
were going to do it, now was the time. Otherwise I’d get another job and we’d
“Both Giles and I coincidentally left the
WHAT DO YOU GET IF YOU COMBINE TWO FORMER MEMBERS OF THE ROYAL NAVY AND A SEASONED PRO FROM THE WORLD OF WINE AND SPIRITS? THE PORTSMOUTH DISTILLERY, THAT’S WHAT. AND ALTHOUGH RUM IS THEIR CORE PASSION, THAT HASN’T STOPPED THEM BECOMING AN AWARD-WINNING GIN PRODUCER, TOO distillersjournal.info
never do it. This was our chance.”
Navy back in 2012. He would set up his own business and I went off to work for
So they took a deep breath and one year
the Geest Line,” recalls Vince Noyce,
later, The Portsmouth Distillery was born.
operations director at The Portsmouth Distillery.
While Noyce had remained in the maritime world after leaving the Navy,
As the premier shipping line to the East
Collighan entered the business world.
Caribbean, Noyce would frequently find
A slight change from the years spent
himself back in the Caribbean handling
together serving on Type 42 destroyer
the import of bananas.
vessels.
“I was already a big fan of rum but
“It’s interesting because both Vince
spending regular time in the Caribbean
and I had the same experiences during
allowed me to reimmerse myself in it,”
our time in the Navy. But when that
Vince Noyce, The Portsmouth Distillery
came to an end, I took out a franchise with a finance company where I spent
“Literally!” smiles Giles Collighan, the
time speaking to the financial directors
distillery’s finance director.
at businesses, discussing how they could save money, effectively, he says.
With a working pattern of eight weeks
“It allowed me to grow my financial
on, eight weeks off, Noyce found himself
background quite quickly and when it
back in the UK and regrettably, at the
came to starting a distillery, dovetailed
bottom of one of his favourite rums -
nicely with Vince’s knowledge of rum.
English Harbour from Antigua Distillery.
We’re a good fit.”
SUMMER 2021
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41
When it came to opening a distillery,
William Augustus, the 2nd son of George
Collighan and Noyce had two factors
II and Duke of Cumberland.
Above: Giles Collighan, finance director and far right, operations director Vince Noyce
that were non-negotiable. The distillery had to be located on Portsea Island and
He, therefore, undertook a review of the
secondly, it was to be housed in a historic
nation’s defences and the first proper fort
building.
was built on Eastney Point.
however work was very slow and costly
Construction began in 1747 under the
with the fort taking some 29 years to
“We started our search and were put in
watchful eye of Ordnance Engineer
complete in 1812.
touch with the City Council,” says Noyce.
and designer John Desmaretz. The first
“Mark Pembleton, their economic growth
fort was star-shaped in plan and was
The second Fort, and the one which
manager, had been in dialogue with
constructed with rubble stone revetting.
remains on the site to this very day, was
Historic England about the ways Fort
Gun embrasures for the larger guns were
a pentagonal fort in plan with projecting
Cumberland could be redeveloped with
concentrated to the south and south-
defensive earthworks (bastions) at the
local companies.”
east on the seaward side of the fort.
end of each length of curtain wall, and
Fort Cumberland is located on the
Each point of the five-pointed star
southeastern corner of Portsea Island on
allowed defensive fire in all directions,
the shingle spit known as Eastney Point.
leaving no blind spots where attackers
Construction of the new fort was
It was built to control the entrance to
could hide.
hampered by shortages of raw materials
Langstone Harbour to the east, and to
Following the War of American
and the lack of labour. The labour used
improve the defences of Portsmouth
Independence and the deteriorating
was a mixture of contract and convict.
Dockyard to the west.
political relations in England, a review
These convicts were housed in prison
of Portsmouth’s defences was carried
hulks which were moored in Langstone
The significance of Eastney Point as a
out by Charles Lennox, the Duke of
Harbour.
defensive outpost was well recognised as
Richmond.
early as 1716 when an earthwork battery
In this review he recommended that Fort
The fort has vaulted casemates within
was built on the site to defend Langstone
Cumberland should be rebuilt.
the curtain wall; these were incorporated
was built mainly of brick and Portland limestone.
to counter the advances in artillery which
Harbour. In the mid 1740s, following the Jacobite rebellion, the threat of a French
Plans for the new fort were submitted
meant these buildings were vulnerable
invasion was very much in the mind of
in 1782, and works commenced in 1783,
to shelling.
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These casemates housed the men,
running, which is handy because when
stores and powder magazines in the
the distillery’s Fort Gin launched in
relative safety of the curtain wall.
November 2018, the only way was up.
Life in these brick barrel-vaulted rooms
Formulating the recipe for the
would have been very unpleasant and
Portsmouth dry gin, three ingredients
crowded, with as many as 30 men to a
that would play a key role grew at the fort
casemate.
itself. These locally-foraged botanicals
It is in two such casemates that the
include Elderflower, Gorse Flowers and
Portsmouth Distillery made its home, a
Sea Radish.
number that has grown to seven since starting out.
“I hadn’t made gin before so I just started
Dich Oatley is the distillery’s sales
to play around with the process,” says
director. Having spent many years in
Noyce. “But one thing was certain, and
the wine and spirits industry working for
that is I wanted to create a spirit that
specialist importers and in interactive
could be enjoyed neat.”
corporate events, Oatley bumped into
He adds: “My view about spirits is very
Collingham and Noyce by chance at the
simple and that is you need to try it neat
Portsmouth Seafood Festival in 2017.
the first time you drink it.
“Rum is our reason for being,” Vince Noyce, The Portsmouth Distillery
“If it’s not palatable neat then you have “It was chance meeting, but it was clear
to ask yourself the very basic question of
early on that we were all on the same
what the bloody hell you are doing in the
page,” he says. “I had been thinking of
first place. You shouldn’t have to disguise
maybe starting something on Hayling
the flavour with something sticky.”
Island, where I live, but it’s not quite as interesting as Portsea Island. So I think it
After months of research, Noyce felt that
worked out really well.”
he had achieved his eureka moment and was eager to share it with others.
Oatley would formally come on board the following year and hit the ground
distillersjournal.info
“Everyone in the office tried the gin and
SUMMER 2021
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43
we all thought it was fantastic. But we
“The reason that we make the gin is
“I opted for Jim Beam because I wanted
would, because it was our baby, and
because we’d be foolish not to. It’s a
to impart that lighter bourbon flavour.
everybody loves their own baby, don’t
way of creating revenue while we’re
Not something that would smack the
they?” he explains.
letting our rum age. But we approach
rum in the face. I wanted something to
the production of each with the same
complement the spirit where they would
The team would undertake broader
mentality. You will never see any old spirit
grow together as they age.”
market research to validate their views on
coming out of this distillery.” And be it gin or rum, the distillery
the inaugural spirit. He adds: “We like to try and do things as
is proud to call Portsmouth home.
“We ended up with around 38 people
they should be done, or at least the way
Something they’ve actively conveyed
taking part in a blind tasting,” he says.
we understand they should be done.”
through their branding since day one.
palates and from sampling nine gins, Fort
The team are particularly proud of
“When we first started looking at our
came top. Not just top, but by 98 points
1968, their unaged white rum made
business plan, it was to start organically
clear. I couldn’t believe it.”
from sugar cane . It’s a deliberate mix of
within Portsmouth and to really try and
different types and styles of rum, using
get local consumers to buy into us, and
Further research was carried out and
fine sugar cane from Central America,
what we’re doing,” says Collighan. “If
more positive feedback was received.
instead of molasses, to produce a sweet,
we could become sustainable thanks
“Pretty much all of these were industry
flavoursome spirit.
to local support, we would then have a
“So we decided to quit while we’re ahead
But they’re even more enthused by
platform to build on.”
and stick with the recipe,” says Noyce.
release of their three-year-old rum,
“With that, Fort Gin was born.”
which they anticipate should be ready
He adds: “We want people to know who
in approximately 12 months time. Until
we are, what we’re producing and where
One year later, Fort Gin was awarded
then, its ageing in 200 litre ex-Jim Beam
we’re making it. We are proud of our story
a IWSC Bronze Medal for Gin in the
bourbon barrels. And it’s a process Noyce
and want to share it with others.”
contemporary styles category. But
has enjoyed being part of. For Noyce, it’s a pertinent point,
despite being a dab hand in gin production, the distillery’s operations
“The classic ageing process for rum takes
especially when other companies can
director’s passion remains firmly in rum.
place in ex-bourbon barrels. And there’s a
opt to be “liberal” with the truth.
plethora of them available because in the “Rum is our reason for being,” Noyce
US, you can only use each barrel once
“Let’s be honest, there’s a lot of
exclaims.
when producing bourbon,” he says.
deception in the distilling world,” he says.
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DISTILLERS JOURNAL
“If we could become sustainable thanks to local support, we would then have a platform to build on,” Giles Collighan The Portsmouth Distillery”
Right: Dich Oatley, sales director at The Portsmouth Distillery
“You can call yourself after a location and have production take place hundreds of miles away. I think it’s important to be honest and genuine when dealing with others. “I think we all get a little miffed on occasion when we see others being economic with the truth, because people can get sucked in by it.” But going forward, the team are confident in their approach. While online sales have helped counter the drop-off in custom elsewhere, a promising new listing at a major supermarket promises to be a highlight in the early part of 2021. “We’ve seen sales from Portsmouth right up to the Highlands of Scotland, which is very rewarding,” says Oatley. “The key going forward is to retain and build upon that loyal business we’ve received in the last year.” Collighan adds: “Pre-pandemic we were welcoming more than 120 people on distillery tours. It’s not just the revenue
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SUMMER 2021
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45
Fort Cumberland: The home of The Portsmouth Distillery
brought in from tours, but the secondary
But achieving the listing was also the
sales you get with people buying drinks
result of a lot of hard work, and the best
to take away.
part of 18 months in the planning.
“So it’s a case of doing our best to maintain the business we’ve created
“We held a tasting, which went well
during these last months when our
but following that it has been more
normal channels hopefully return. But it’s
than a year and a half banging on the
an exciting time.”
door to get to where we are now,” says Collingham.
Which is especially true with the distillery’s gin being stocked at some
Noyce adds: “It’s funny how these things
local Waitrose stores from April onwards.
work out. We have our gin going on the shelf, which is great. But the real goal
“Our mission in the last 12 months has
is the be the artisan white rum on the
been to ensure we are still on people’s
shelves of places such as Waitrose.
minds. With the new ways pubs and bars operate, customers have been unable to
“It’s the product we want to be
visit the bar and pick out a drink in that
recognised for, and I truly believe there
fashion, especially with the prevalence
is space for a product like ours. We have
of table service,” says Oatley. “So the
a great deal of faith in the quality of what
chance to stock our gin in somewhere
we distil here in Portsmouth and look
like Waitrose is a great opportunity for the
forward to sharing it with others, too.”
business and a positive start to the year.”
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DISTILLERS JOURNAL
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Portuguese ‘Hoga’ copper pot-stills and
shaped corks along with GPI screw caps
exhibits a wide range of flavours from
for maximum flexibility on the different
botanicals sourced from the local area,
product lines.
as well as from around the world.
The unit can also fill miniatures in the future making for a very versatile and
As creators of craft gin, whisky and
flexible unit.
beers, their team of distillers have the
The new bespoke crystal cut Love Gin
opportunity to marry the best practices
bottle has a very distinctive finish with a
from all these disciplines.
precise label panel that required accurate orientation for application.
Few distilleries are as fortunate as them,
Enterprise Tondelli supplied a rotary self-
with the paradise of the Eden Estuary
adhesive labeller capable of accurate
on their doorstep they source botanicals
base notch spotting using servo motors
from the local fields, forests and coasts to
for more flexibility.
represent the best of Scotland. In 2015, the team launched their Golf Gin
The labeller supplied from BRB in Italy
in homage to a taste of St Andrews.
is just one of the wide range of labellers
Eden Mill’s Original Gin is a twist on
that Enterprise supply from BRB Globus
the classic London Dry using Fife’s sea
based in Mantova. This was the same
buckthorn berries, a superfood which
supplied for the original beer bottling line.
grows within walking distance of the St
To further dress the bottles, and as a
Andrews distillery.
tamper evidence, heat shrink capsules
Their pioneering spirit is evident in
are automatically applied as part of the
the constant range of innovative new
project. The bottle conveyor system
products from the master distillers.
was manufactured by Eurosistemi who are specialist in this field and have been
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From their famous Love Gin, one of the
working with Enterprise Tondelli since the
first ever pink gins to their quality RTD
early 1980’s. Extra stations were included
gin cocktails, single malt scotch whisky,
for hand finish of premium products for
flavoured gins and seasonal expressions,
short batch runs.
their goal is to capture the spirit and
Jason Hill, project manager at Eden Mill,
provenance of St Andrews in every bottle.
said “We have used Enterprise before
Eden Mill already had a craft bottling
and appreciated their support in the past.
line for their range of beers supplied by
“This project had some additional
Enterprise Tondelli a few years ago.
challenges due to the flexibility required
When the decision was made to increase
and bottle decoration but Enterprise have
capacity of their spirit bottling operation
worked tirelessly to follow our needs.”
DISTILLERS JOURNAL
The new bespoke crystal cut Love Gin bottle has a very distinctive finish.
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REALISE A VISION WHEN JACKTON, SCOTLAND-BASED RAER BUILT THEIR IMPRESSIVE DISTILLERY AND BREWHOUSE, THEY INVESTED IN EQUIPMENT ACROSS THE BOARD TO MEET THEIR AMBITIOUS EXPANSION PLANS.
R
aer Scotch Whisky Limited
sophisticated solutions for their business
is an independent family-
needs.
owned distillery and
This incorporates bulk malt handling, a
brewhouse in the small
fully functional brewhouse, two (5000L
village of Jackton, near
& 2000L) stills along with a 10L R&D
Glasgow.
While the family dream was always to
still, CIP tank system, chiller, spent grain removal system and all the required finishing and holding tanks.
set up a distillery and produce whisky, support for the community and its
Ryebeck’s in-depth knowledge and
resources remains central to their vision.
experience of brewing and distilling have
They are committed to using local
provided Raer with a unique operation.
ingredients where possible, including
The malt handling system delivers the
having their own water source at the
benefits of higher extract and enhanced
distillery and growing their own grain.
control achieved from milling their own malt.
Also, during the pandemic, Raer has worked with local businesses and
The brewery has brought together some
charities to distribute free hand sanitiser
of the highest levels of automation
to some of the most vulnerable people
installed in the UK. Similarly, the distillery
within their community.
set-up enables a near continuous operation of the wash and spirit stills.
Operations Director Max McAneny explains: “Using the highest quality raw
Commenting on Ryebeck’s involvement,
ingredients and having sustainable
McAneny adds: “After meeting Tim Prime
production is key to success.
[managing director], we felt that his
“We currently use Scottish barley which
attitude and responses to our questions
is malted locally. We also grow barley
were excellent and that we could de-
ourselves in the neighbouring field and
velop a good relationship.
the traceability that this will afford us is
“Their lead-in times for equipment
fantastic.”
were much better than others and communication between us has been
A maltings facility is currently being built
great. Even when we have technical
and they are now bringing production
questions, they are able to supply the
of neutral grain spirit in-house too. Once
answers within a reasonable response
complete, Raer will have a true grain-to-
time.”
glass operation with full traceability. The company launched Raer Blended Additionally, Raer’s spent barley is used
Scotch Whisky at the end of 2020. This
to feed the cows on the neighbouring
expert blend of malt and grain whiskies
farm. They have recyclable packaging
offers new and experienced whisky fans
for their products and an application has
a smoother, naturally sweeter, entry-level
been made for wind turbines on the farm
whisky for sipping over ice or in a whisky
where the distillery is located. This will
cocktail.
add to their already impressive green credentials.
Additionally, last year on 12th February, Raer Whisky filled its first cask and has
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Ryebeck has been Raer’s equipment
since laid down a stunning selection of
supplier of choice, providing
what will become their malt whiskies.
DISTILLERS JOURNAL
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51
Our spirit, which is currently maturing, will become the start of a continuous supply of new and exciting malt whiskies.”
Sales and marketing director, Katie
which a selection will be made for future
O’Brien comments: “Raer cask finishes
production. The distillery also intends
include port, sherry, rum, Madeira,
to open a shop on-site and extend its
Sauternes, Rioja, Bourbon and more.
branded merchandise.
“Our spirit, which is currently maturing, will become the start of a continuous
The success of Raer’s ambitious
supply of new and exciting malt whiskies
projects has been possible through an
from Valentine’s Day 2023.”
innovative business model incorporating high quality, bespoke, technologically
Raer has just released Jackton Gin,
advanced machinery.
working with Craig Law, Ryebeck’s Master Distiller. Initially using a small
Ryebeck’s expertise has been essential in
test still, Law helped with perfecting the
scoping the project, sourcing, supplying
recipe, fine-tuning the mix of botanicals,
and fitting the equipment and providing
before upscaling production to a much
technical advice.
larger 2000L spirit still. As a result, the Scottish distillery has The result is a juniper-led gin offering
already established an important
the perfect balance of classic and exotic
presence in its local area with a vision
botanicals.
to become known and renowned throughout the country and beyond.
Raer has exciting plans to grow the business further. The team is already working on a vodka and pink gin and has developed 11 different beers from
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DISTILLERS JOURNAL
024 76 581197
info@staegerclear.co.uk
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Bruni Erben is a leading supplier of glass, closures and machinery for the spirits, beverage, wine, food and home fragrance markets. Founded in 1951, the company has developed & diversified and today offers an extensive catalogue of stock items, a design team which delivers extraordinary results on bespoke products, and industry leading technical support. www.BruniErben.co.uk • +44 (0)1473 823011
MEET THE DISTILLER
NO STANDING STILL YOU CAN MAKE YOUR WAY IN THIS INDUSTRY WITH GREAT SPIRITS BUT WITH THAT, YOU NEED TO BE GENUINE IN YOUR APPROACH. CREATE THE DRINKS YOU TRULY WANT TO MAKE AND PEOPLE WILL REACT IN KIND. AND THAT’S EXACTLY THE ATTITUDE SEB HEELEY AND JEN WIGGINS INSTIL IN EVERYTHING THEY PRODUCE AT THE SPIRIT OF MANCHESTER DISTILLERY 54
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C
racking open a beer, or pouring yourself a drink while chatting on Zoom, it’s just not the same is it?” Seb Heeley is, it’s safe to
say, ready for hospitality to reopen. After all, if it wasn’t for pubs, bars and restaurants, and the joy that they bring, he wouldn’t have met his partner Jen Wiggins. And for fans of great gin and
DISTILLERS JOURNAL
The great thing about gin is that you can actually taste what’s in the glass,” Seb Heeley, Manchester Gin other fine spirits then that would have
Fast forward and the couple ended up
look at reviews that mention all manner
been a travesty on a whole different level
producing 25,000 bottles from home,
of flavour and aromas that are difficult to
because there would be no Manchester
winning a raft of awards along the way.
pick up. But with gin, you can pick out
Gin, either.
And with their new impressive Spirit of
the citrus, the fennel, for instance. You
Manchester distillery, which opened in
understand what you’re drinking.”
For back in February 2013, Heeley and
2019, things have moved up a whole
Wiggins would meet and bond over a
other level.
Wiggins adds: “Whether you have some nice gins at home, or you’re drinking in
passion for a great G&T. And while they enjoy creating a myriad
a bar, it’s easier to pick out flavour notes
Several years later, they took this love of
of different spirits, gin remains that core
and because of that, you can feel that
this spirit into their own hands. Starting
passion for Heeley and Wiggins. They still
you have a real level of understanding of
production from their Chorlton dining
enjoy drinking it just as they do making it.
what’s in the glass.
would go on to grow wildly beyond their
“The great thing about gin is that you can
“I feel that you are empowered to try
expectations, with the duo selling close
actually taste what’s in the glass,” says
different types of gin because there’s less
to 700 bottles a week by the end of 2016.
Heeley. “When it comes to wine, you
uncertainty about what you’re drinking,
room, an initial run of just 100 bottles
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55
and I think that’s a great thing.”
can always sit back and say we’re proud
Manchester; the team took out the citrus
of it regardless.
and sweeter notes from their Signature
In addition to gin, the company has
gin and instead used sage, thyme, orris,
produced vodka and absinthe, among
“And I think that’s got to be the starting
others. For Heeley, whose second
point for us. We would never release
favourite spirit is rum, the last year
something just because we think
Elsewhere there is Overboard, the team’s
presented a great opportunity to innovate
there’s a gap in the market. Instead,
take on Navy Strength Gin which is a
in this space.
it’s something we’ve always wanted to
more intense version of the Signature
do and I look forward to sharing it with
blend. Cut at an impressive 57%, this is a
everyone.”
delicious and vibrant gin, full of flavour
“We knew there was space in our portfolio so we took the decision to
lemon balm and silver birch.
and character. The higher ABV amplifies
produce a botanical rum, which we’ll
While rum represents a new product line
the citrus and intensifies the aromatic
launch soon,” he explains. “There is
for the Spirit of Manchester team, the
juniper.
obviously a purist route where the liquid
approach to drinks development remains
has been stilled and put into barrels, but I
constant. And that’s to make something
“Gin is the first thing Jen and I ever spoke
feel that there is a new wave, too.”
the team enjoy.
about. It’s the thing we fell in love with and the first product we ever made,”
Heeley adds: “We’re on a constant
says Heeley. “And we’re making a rum
journey learning which flavours work
because we want to make a rum. Yes
best together, and it’s a reason why gin is
there’s talk of rum being the next big
so hugely popular because people love
thing but it’s not going to be, it’s going to
distilling with these combinations and
be nowhere as big as gin.”
people enjoy drinking them. “By adopting this approach to rum, we’ve taken everything we’ve learned about dealing with different botanicals and used that to enhance the the natural flavours of rum.” So the consumer can soon enjoy a beautiful rum boasting flavours of fresh
There’s great joy to be had from experimentation,” Jen Wiggins, Manchester Gin
vanilla and fresh cacao.
Wiggins adds: “Gin will always be at the forefront of our business, but there’s no point having these lovely shiny stills, these fantastic botanicals and this wealth of knowledge if you’re not going to do different things with it. There’s great joy to be had from experimentation.” And that experimentation extends further than the upcoming foray into rum. The team previously produced a very small
“It’ll almost be a new type of category
batch of Scandinavian spirit aquavit to
for rum but at the same time, we’re not
“What we always say is to make
be used as an in-house component for
going to be selling these for hundreds
something we love, and that’s ultimately
cocktails served at the distillery bar and
of pounds because they’ve not spent 20
how we started with gin,” explains
restaurant, Three Little Words.
years in a barrel. They’ve had barrel time
Wiggins. “Our first product, Signature,
but we’d be looking at retailing these
was born out of the gins Seb and I love.
Sticking on the cocktail front, Heeley’s
more in the range of £26 or so,” he says.
So we spent three months creating
personal favourite is Corpse Reviver.
“Caribbean rum will always be the most
a recipe, tasting all of the products
Created with gin, absinthe, vermouth and
prestigious because they have the right
we enjoyed. In doing so, we could
lemon juice, the drink also requires the
climate for its production. But in the UK,
understand the type of flavour profile
addition of triple sec. Considering they’ve
we have a huge distilling background to
behind our perfect gin.”
already produced most of those, what
bring to the table, too”.
better reason to produce your own Triple Signature Gin has become one of the
Sec?
Heeley explains: “So we’re focusing on
most awarded gins in the country;
what the UK does well. We have no
made with local dandelion and burdock
“You just need to start growing your own
qualms about not being a Caribbean
root and ten other specially sourced
lemons, now!” laughs Wiggins.
rum, so instead we are calling this a
botanicals including orange, lemon,
British botanical rum.
liquorice and ground almond.
“It’s a case of being honest with ourselves
It complements other releases such as
Heeley and Wiggins are looking forward
and producing a spirit that we’re proud of.
Wild Spirit, a creamy, savoury gin with
to welcoming visitors back to their
If it flies and succeeds then we’ll be really
complex herbaceous notes. Inspired
Manchester distillery once more.
pleased. But at the end of the day, you
by walks through the woodlands of
And calling the city home is an important
While the global pandemic has impacted the business, like so many others,
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Jen Wiggins and Seb Heeley: “We would never release something just because we think there’s a gap in the market.”
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57
part of their identity. “I think people in Manchester aren’t afraid to experiment,” says Heeley. “Look at the music scene, and as the birthplace of the Industrial Revolution, you always think you can go out there and do something. “We both like to eat and drink, and because the weather is often so bad, it makes sense to be creative indoors! There is a willingness and a passion from the people of Manchester to embrace the local. And that’s a great thing.” But just because a product is local, doesn’t mean it suddenly flies off the shelves, either. Heeley explains: “I think you get stocked the first time because you’re local, but you don’t get a second chance unless the flavour and quality is there. “Our policy is promoting ‘Liquid to lips’ and we can only hope to achieve that if the drinks we are making are good enough for people to want them more than once.” “A couple of years ago there was a huge uprising in gin where it was almost novel to have people making it in their bedroom or dining room,” adds Wiggins. “I feel that this has almost faded away a little and now quality is the overriding expectation from the consumer and that’s only right. And it’s our responsibility to meet those expectations.”
Manchester Gin Signature has become of the most awarded gins in the country
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Humidity Control for Distilleries, Breweries & Maltsters
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OVERCOME THE CHALLENGE
D
espite the unprecedented
a vessel known as a mash or lauter tun,
impact on the UK’s
where the starch is converted into sugar.
hospitality sector as a
Traditionally, the grain is cracked and
result of the COVID-19
stored in a grist case and then gravity-fed
pandemic, our appetite
into a ‘masher’, where it is mixed with hot
for beer and spirits remains strong.
water prior to entering the mash tun.
For breweries, this has been driven in
However, in newer or smaller breweries,
part by consumer taste for craft beers;
the grist case often sits below the mash
while in the distilling sector, there has
tun, with a conveyor system transferring
been an increased demand for authentic
the grist to the masher.
and flavoured products such as artisan
This not only involves high incremental
gin.
costs but can also add complexity to
But while brewing and distilling
the conveying system, leading to mixing
operations of all sizes – from artisan
problems; water is often added unevenly,
craft to large and highly automated –
resulting in a mix that is not homogenous
remain popular, ring fencing already tight
and reduces the yield.
profit margins is critical if producers are to shoulder the economic burdens of
An ideal alternative to complex conveyor
COVID-19.
systems are PC pumps in Seepex’s BT range. These offer installation and
BY OPTIMISING THEIR ENTIRE OPERATION AND INCREASING THEIR PLANT’S OVERALL EFFICIENCY, PC PUMPS ARE HELPING BREWERS AND DISTILLERS TO REMAIN PROFITABLE DESPITE THE PANDEMIC PRESSURES, EXPLAINS PETER MCGARIAN, MANAGING DIRECTOR AT SEEPEX UK
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The many challenges faced throughout
mashing-in flexibility, allowing the grist
the brewing or distilling process can
to be mixed with hot water and then
be divided into three major areas: raw
pumped into the mash tun.
materials handling, production, and waste handling.
Comprising a feed hopper and an auger
In each of these, accurate control of
feed screw, the pitch and diameter of
product flow is essential to ensure the
the auger can be adjusted for optimal
final product quality is consistently high.
product feed, ensuring a homogenous mix and a stable yield.
Pumps are therefore integral to brewing and distilling operations. However, not all
One producer who is already enjoying
pumps are created equal.
the benefits is Ringwood Brewery in Dorset. Thanks to the installation of a
Here, we demonstrate how switching to a
Seepex BT pump underneath the grist
progressive cavity (PC) pump can deliver
case, its grist is now carried safely,
efficiency, productivity and energy gains
effectively and consistently to the mash
to help brewers and distillers thrive, not
tun.
just survive, throughout the pandemic and beyond.
The time taken for transfer has been cut in half, improving production and
GRIST MIXING & TRANSFER
almost doubling mashing capacity. In addition, the pump system has been
The brewing or distilling process starts
fitted with Smart Conveying Technology
by mixing milled grain (grist) with water in
(SCT); an innovation from Seepex that
DISTILLERS JOURNAL
FLAVOUR & COLOUR DOSING
enables rapid dismantling and cleaning,
This is because PC pumps move the
increasing pump stator life by up to 200%
product through the pump in a series
and reducing maintenance time by up to
of cavities, which prevents slip from the
The addition of flavours and colours
85%.
discharge back through the pump.
into beers and spirits must be done
Slip creates shear, so compared to other
accurately and constantly to ensure
pump designs which have clearances
even distribution and a consistent final
between the lobes, screws or gears, PC
product, with any additives metered in a
pumps have a very low shear action.
non-pulsating manner.
yeast is added to the wort to convert
They are also good at handling entrained
sometimes used but their pulsating
simple sugars into alcohol.
air and foam; important for brewers and
action means that once they have
Yeast is shear-sensitive so requires very
distillers as the yeast can gain a foamy
dispensed a product, there is a pause
gentle and hygienic handling to avoid
consistency at this stage.
before they can dispense again. This
YEAST HANDLING A critical process for any brewery or
Positive displacement pumps are
distillery is the fermentation stage; when
results in a gap in the process, which can
damaging it, which would ultimately have a detrimental effect on the taste of the
At the end of the fermentation process,
beer or spirit. Choosing the right yeast
yeast can also be recovered for re-use
pump is therefore crucial.
(known as harvesting) by discharging
In contrast, Seepex’s PC dosing pumps
from the conical base of closed vessels
(D range) are virtually pulsation-free
Peristaltic pumps are sometimes used at
(bottom cropping) or skimming from the
and their output is directly proportional
this stage, but their pulsating action can
surface of open vessels (top cropping). In
to the rotational speed of the pumping
have a negative effect on the quality of
either case, the low shear characteristics
elements. This linear accuracy, varied
shear-sensitive products like yeast.
of the BCF range offer advantages
using the pump speed, enables easy
By contrast, Seepex’s BCF range of PC
over alternative pumped methods or
calibration and control.
pumps offers more gentle and hygienic
inefficient manual procedures.
cause uneven distribution of ingredients.
handling, better preserving the yeast
Their ability to meter very low flow rates
quality for fermentation.
means that colours, flavours and portions
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A flexible alternative to expeller units, Seepex open hopper pumps are used for spent grain handling as well as grist mixing and transfer
are all consistent, and they can also
technology is also ideal for this
reduce air consumption by ~90% for the
accurately meter a wide range of product
application. SAI can efficiently convey
mash tun discharge of spent grain into
consistencies – from thin to highly
15-40% dry solids (ds) spent grains, draff
the bulk storage, and by ~80% for the
viscous, abrasive to sticky.
and hops in plugs of 20-30m length,
hops discharge.
over distances of up to several hundred
SPENT GRAINS, DRAFF, HOPS
metres using controlled air pulses.
By-products of beer and spirit production
SAI combines progressive cavity
handling methods towards innovative,
include spent grains, draff and hops. At
pumping with pneumatic dense-phase
problem-solving PC pump solutions,
the end of the mashing process, they
conveying to increase process efficiency
brewers and distillers can maintain
need to be transferred rapidly to storage
and productivity, as well as reducing
their product quality, reduce their
tanks or silos to enable production to
energy consumption.
energy consumption and increase their
In conclusion, by moving away from traditional and inefficient product
production capacity.
continue. They are then further transported for use
In a spent grain handling test at a UK
By optimising their entire operation and
as animal feed, as additives in bakery
brewery, conveying efficiency using
increasing their plant’s overall efficiency,
products, for energy generation in biogas
SAI was evaluated to assess the air
PC pumps are helping brewers and
plants or to produce biofuel.
consumption savings compared to the
distillers to remain profitable despite the
existing pneumatic expeller.
pandemic pressures.
The methods of removing spent grain
The test demonstrated the potential to
or draff vary according to the size of the brewery. Small breweries favour manual removal, whilst larger breweries or distilleries tend to use compressed air units (also known as pneumatic expeller
Seepex BCF progressive cavity pumps are ideal for gentle and hygienic handling of shear sensitive products like yeast
units). However, brewers and distillers can significantly reduce their costs by pumping these residual materials instead. Open hopper PC pumps with auger feed systems can transport the spent grain or draff within a closed pipe system over hundreds of metres. And as expeller units account for one of the highest utility costs in the industry, this has the additional advantage of reducing energy consumption. Seepex’s Smart Air Injection (SAI)
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Variety is the spice of life With so much choice, how do we make consumers into fans, making the decision to buy so much easier? We know it takes building a story to elevate and position you, the craft of design and some strategic thinking! We’re driven by working with brave clients who share our ambitious mindset and hunger to build unstoppable brands. Let’s work together…
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Distillers Journal half page March 2021 AW.indd 1
26/03/2021 08:23
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OPTIMISE THE INLINE BLENDING PROCESS IN THIS PIECE, LEICESTER-BASED OEM AUTOMATIC SHOWCASE THE BENEFITS A IRM-11 REFRACTOMETER CAN PLAY IN THE BLENDING PROCESS
I
n many applications, the inline
samples or a complete filling batch can
Brix analysis of products enables
be affected and must be disposed of.
automated and highly accurate process control and quality
THE SOLUTION
monitoring. The IRM-11 refractometer is integrated
Especially when blending and filling
into the process and continuously
juices, syrups, nectars, soft drinks, and
measures the Brix value, which is the
other beverages, the refractometer IRM-
concentration of dissolved substances
11 from Anderson-Negele can:
in the products such as sugar, with high
u Measure and monitor the quality of the
accuracy.
components with high precision u Control the dosage during the
This allows the user to differentiate each
blending of the products with high
component or product. Three essential
precision
features of the IRM-11 are the basis for its
u Ensure during filling that the correct
highly efficient process analysis:
product with the correct quality is in the
u The measurement is inline,
process
temperature compensated, and continuous (measuring interval
THE APPLICATION
adjustable from 2 s). This saves labor costs for manual sampling and ensures
In beverage production, syrups, juice
correct measurement results in real-time.
concentrates, or other components are
u When measuring manually, the entire
usually blended with water according to
manufactured product between two
specified recipes, then stored in stacking
measurements can be defective. IRM-11
tanks, and finally filled into bottles or
can avoid these product losses due to its
containers, which are often product-
permanent measuring method
specific.
u The compact, all stainless-
If a preliminary component, e.g., a juice
steel design, and the simple, flush
concentrate, does not precisely meet the
installation without bypass ensure
specifications or if the blending process
maximum operation dependability in all
itself is incorrect, e.g., caused by a wrong
applications.
valve switching, the entire product may be defective. It is also possible that the wrong product is bottled due to incorrect phase transition. If this is only detected during the final quality control, a complete production batch may have to be disposed of. The IRM-11 refractometer is integrated into the process
With a refractometer, each process step can be controlled by measuring the dissolved sugar in the liquid. If this Brixcontrol is made with manual samples and hand refractometers, this requires a very high workload for the personnel, e.g., every 20 minutes. In addition, an error can only be detected afterward, so that the production quantity between two
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y b e R
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SCIENCE
IT WILL ALL COME OUT IN THE WASH
IN THIS PIECE ADAM JOHNSON, EUROPEAN TECHNICAL SALES AT MURPHY & SON, LOOKS AT ENZYMES AND THEIR ROLE IN THE DISTILLING PROCESS.
M
alt is a fantastic
of fermentable extract whilst retaining
thing. The maltster
the flavour and aroma characteristics
has prepared for
essential to malt whisk(e)y {1}.
the distiller a self-
This author does not want to get into
disassembling starch
spelling debates, but will use whisky for
package, where the package even
everything for the remainder of this piece.
assists in producing wort for fermentation
Pale ale brewing malt and pot still malt
by forming the filter bed.
may have some nuanced differences, but
The enzymes included in the grain are
they are both essentially well-modified,
capable of completely degrading the
plump & pale malts.
starch at ambient temperatures {1}. This may be the case but in distilling,
For Scottish grain distilling, high Diastatic
a compromise is always found during
Power malts are used. This is because
processing as you are trying to meet
other unmalted grains are used to
various and sometimes conflicting goals.
provide the majority of the starch.
Before looking at exogenous enzymes it is worth looking at what is already
They lack the required enzymatic
available from malted barley.
activities & without external assistance they will not be able to convert this starch
As the barley grain is coaxed into
to fermentable substrate.
germination through the malting process the starchy endosperm degrading
High DP malt enables the distiller to
enzymes are produced: αalpha-
convert this whilst remaining compliant
amylase, endo-betaβ-1,3:1,4 glucanases,
to the Scotch Whisky Act.
limitdextrinases, endoproteases &
One of the key distinguishing features
Xylanases. (F.G Priest, GG Stewart
between wort and wash production vs
Handbook of Brewing). Unmalted barley
wort and beer production is the wort boil
contains βbeta-amylase and peptidase
& lack of it in distilling.
enzymes. From an enzymatic point of view this
distillersjournal.info
Malting barley for distilling is a balancing
has a dramatic effect on the wash
act of trying to achieve maximum levels
composition as enzymes remain active
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throughout fermentation. Although a range of mashing regimes are used, at typical mashing temperatures starch granules gelatinize, dissolve and endogenous enzymes rapidly degrade this starch to glucose, maltose, maltotriose and dextrins ranging in length. Wort boiling fixes this wort composition by denaturing the malt enzymes. Primarily brewers are concerned with αalpha-amylase & βbeta-amylase activity to produce the required liquefaction and saccharification, distillers squeeze extra fermentability out of the wort due to preserved activity of limit dextrinase in combination with the pH drop during fermentation {1}. At Herriot-Watt University malting professor James Bryce named limit dextrinase as his favourite enzyme and from a scotch whisky distillers’ perspective it makes sense. Even with this activity not all limit dextrins are rendered fermentable in scotch whisky production. Some Scotch distillers use commercial enzymes in the lab Scotch whisky producers are much like the brewers in Germany and have gone to some extreme measures to make a great product despite being constrained by legislation
to benchmark against their process, ensuring they are pushing the boundaries of what is possible without exogenous additions. With malt being such an amazing raw material, it does pose the question why would you need to add non-malt
TABLE ONE: RULE OF THUMB GELATINISATION TEMPS Cereal
Typical temperature range for Gelatinisation °C
Maize
62-80
Sorghum
69-75
Barley
Small Granules 51-92 Large Granules 60-65
Barley Malt
64-67
Wheat
52-66
Rye
49-70
Oats
52-64
Rice
61-82
Potato
56-71
(Adapted from Brewing Science and Practice DE Briggs) {2} Due to the cellular structure “Cook temps” for the cereals in bold are higher than the reported gelatinisation temps
enzymes to the distilling process? The simple answer is that a distiller does not need to, but the many benefits mean many want to. Malting is an energy and water intensive industry plus barley is around half the price of malt. When approached like this, the economic, agronomic and sustainability arguments become strong for non-malted adjunct use. It is a mistake to over-engineer just for the sake of it. Simplifying equipment and processing is a rewarding exercise. Exogenous enzymes are very useful tools that can be utilised to fulfil specific tasks or benefits. This is especially relevant when adjuncts
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Water Raw materials Carbohydrates: Ground grain/corn Starch Glucose Sugar
Sterilisation
Seed fermenter
Cooling water
Proteins: Soy bean meal Gluten Corn steep liquor Salts: Phosphates Sulphates Ammonium salts
Mixing of nutrient medium
Inoculation Flask Air Figure one: The enzyme production process
and unmalted cereals are desired for the process. They are also simple to ship, store, dose and use. Dose rates can be incredibly low considering the benefits.
Pump
TABLE TWO: A BRIEF OVERVIEW OF THE DISTILLERS ENZYMATIC TOOLBOX Enzyme Alpha Amylases
Rule of thumb gelatinisation temps (Adapted from Brewing Science and Practice DE Briggs) {2}
Sterile filter
Fermented broth for recovery of enzyme
Exogenous forms have many different temperature and pH optima
Function Starch Liquefaction, viscosity reduction By random hydrolysis of starch
Notes u Allows for use of non-malted adjuncts #* u Better suited to certain adjuncts e.g. higher gelatinisation temps u Potential savings for money, energy and emissions u More Flexibility
Enzymes are biomolecules that catalyse reactions, lowering activation energies and speeding up the rate of reaction.
Beta-Glucanses, Xylanases, Cellulases & Hemi Cellulases
Viscosity reduction
u Allows for use of non-malted adjuncts#* u Potential savings for money, energy and emissions
Glucoamylases
Saccharification
u Higher Fermentability u Higher Alcohol yield u Efficiency savings
Proteases
Readily available nitrogen for the yeast
u Higher alcohol yield u Quality and efficiency benefits
As biomolecules there is nothing “unnatural” about them in fact the opposite is true. Nature has developed them, and they are essential to nature. Mankind simply utilises them as a tool. It is true that modern biotechnology has allowed for genetic manipulation but as the drinks industry has for the most part resisted GMO technologies, we will not go down that rabbit hole in this article. Typically, enzymes will be manufactured in a way that would be very familiar to
# Due to its low levels of essential enzymes (-amylase, proteases and Beta- glucanases) together with a relatively inaccessible starchy endosperm, high inclusions of unmalted barley (>20%) in the mash (without the aid of commercial enzymes) can lead to problems such as low extract yields, high wort viscosities, decreased rate of lautering & fermentation problems {3} * The major difficulties in wort production with high levels of wheat include an increase in viscosity, slower wort separation {3}
brewers & distillers: Utilising raw materials -> →Mixing to an aqueous form -> →Utilizing microorganisms, engineering equipment & heating and cooling functions -> → Packaging Final product
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Figure two: Differences of amylose and amylopectin
R1
R2
R3
R4
NH2 – CH – CO – NH – CH – CO – NH – CH – CO – NH – CH – COOH Amino-acid
Amino-acid
Endoprotease
Aminopeptidase
Carboxypeptidase Exoproteases
Figure three: Proteases enzymes
The distilling process is a great area for
enzymes to improve product and/or
For example, Trizyme is a blend of alpha
the application of accumulated marginal
process.
amylase, Beta-glucanase and protease
gains. In a grain distillery increasing ABV from 9.6% to 11% results in and increase of
activities. Distillers can use this with
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
alcohol yield from 370-385L/t Grain.
significant non malted barley & adjunct usage and measure results compared to
Murphy and Son is not an enzyme
separate additions.
The processing can be broken down and
manufacturer, but we have found
examined and areas can be looked at for
success as an enzyme supplier as
As a single product to purchase, store
improvement. E.g. Is spirit yield & energy
we can partner with a wide range of
and apply to the process there are
consumption good? Can it be better? Are
manufacturers who offer the best
operational benefits. We can even tailor
raw material costs good? Can they be
solutions & as qualified brewers and
formulations for their specific process.
better?
distillers we can work with the customers
Therefore, many distillers use exogenous
to get great results.
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As I mentioned we have a slightly
DISTILLERS JOURNAL
different perspective than many distillers
We would love to work with some
& we have some slightly alternative ideas
distillers with a curious mind in these
we would like to investigate with distillers
projects or others that you think
working from grain to glass.
will spark our curiosity. Connect via
“Burtonised” Ready Hardened Malt-
my Linkedin profile: https://www.
With our expertise in water treatment
linkedin.com/in/adam-johnson-
for the brewing industry spanning over
65827595/?originalSubdomain=de
130 years we are developing malt with
Cheers to all the distillery workers
an increased acidification potential and
keeping our spirits up during a very
higher calcium levels. We believe this will
difficult time!
produce benefits to the mashing process. We would also like to work with some
REFERENCES
distillers to tailor our existing treatments to producers who are not constrained by
1. A review of malting and malt
Scotch whisky.
processing for whisky distillation George N. Bathgate* https://doi.org/10.1002/
We are also fortunate to have access
jib.332
to a wide selection of farmhouse yeast
2. Brewing Science and Practice, DE
strains, if you have come across “Kviek
Briggs, CA Boulton, PA Brookes & R
“strains before you will have noted they
Stevens.
have extremely interesting fermentation
3. Brewing New Technologies CW
profiles as they are much more tolerant
Bamforth
to high temperatures they can therefore
4. 125th Anniversary Review:
ferment even faster than typical wash
Developments in brewing and distilling
fermentations 24 hours is common for
yeast strains Graham G. Stewart Annie E.
farmhouse brewers (Historical brewing
Hill Inge Russell https://doi.org/10.1002/
techniques LM Garshol)
jib.104
distillersjournal.info
Article author Adam Johnson and his sister (left) on their very first visit to a distillery
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THE PAY-OFFS OF HUMIDITY MANAGEMENT CONTROLLING HUMIDITY LEVELS IS ONE OF THE MOST SIGNIFICANTLY OVERLOOKED ISSUES IN MODERN INDUSTRIAL ACTIVITY, BUT HUMIDITY CONTROL TECHNOLOGY IS THE MOST COSTEFFECTIVE AND ENVIRONMENTALLY RESPONSIBLE WAY TO TACKLE MANY PROBLEMS WIDESPREAD THROUGHOUT THE PRODUCTION INDUSTRY, EXPLAINS LINDSEY HENDERSON SALES DIRECTOR AT HUMIDITY SOLUTIONS
T
he ability to control levels of
over years. Controlling variables such as
humidity is one of the most
humidity must be a concern across all
significantly overlooked
steps of the production operation.
issues in modern industrial activity. Most people don’t
A good example of this is how a lack of
notice humidity to anywhere near the
humidity control in a whisky distillery was
same degree that they are aware of other
causing large losses due to evaporation.
equally basic phenomena, such as heat,
In this particular application the whisky
cold and draughts.
was being matured in oak casks over years to get its unique flavour and colour.
Humidity can have a profound influence
These wooden casks equalise with the
on materials, on production costs, on
surrounding air, which means liquid
service and maintenance expenditure
transforms outwards when the air
and on asset durability, as well as
humidity in the storage areas is too low,
energy consumption and the resultant
this means great volumes of loss of
environmental impact. This applies to
whisky and of course loss of income.
virtually all sectors of both manufacturing and service industry.
This ‘angels’ share’ that occurs in the maturing process is now controlled by
Uncontrolled Humidity makes nasty
installing an Adiabatic humidification
things happen:
system which uses a high pressure
Condensation Condensation is the result
pump station and controls several zones
of the fact that the air, which inevitably
independently using nozzles mounted
contains a certain level of moisture, has a
on heads that distribute the moisture in a
different temperature from the surfaces
controlled manner.
with which it comes into contact.
Humidifying to the correct level and
Corrosion & rust The combination of
stabilizing the humidity in the storage
humidity and oxygen makes metals
areas have ensured losses are at an
corrode, significantly affecting both
absolute minimum and profit margins are
strength and durability. Iron and steel rust
no longer affected.
and lose structural integrity, copper is plagued by verdigris, affecting electronics
Similarly, as too little humidity can cause
and electrical equipment.
issues, there are also many problems
Clumping & blockages Powders and
associated with too much humidity as
granulate absorb humidity particularly
stated above, whilst we may know of
easily. They then clump together,
these problems the important thing is
affecting quality and causing blockages
how they are dealt with.
in processing equipment, as well as
The layman’s idea about dealing with
providing a fertile breeding ground for
humidity and condensation problems is
bacteria.
simply to turn up the heating, However,
Inconsistent Product Conditions
turning up the heating has only very
Seasonal fluctuations in humidity result
limited effects on humidity.
in inconsistent production conditions that can affect product quality, energy
Heating does not alter the absolute level
consumption and profit margins.
of humidity present in the air – it only increases the overall temperature.
distillersjournal.info
Today’s operations strive for consistency
The relationship between the heat
and conformity across production and
content and the water vapour content of
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air is relatively complicated and non-
The entire process is cyclic, making the
Humidity control technology is the most
linear, and temperature isn’t as important
system largely self-reliant, with no need
cost-effective and environmentally
as air humidity, because of the dew point.
for manual intervention and very little
responsible way to tackle many problems
This usually results in excessive energy
need for maintenance.
widespread throughout the production
costs to very little effect, because it takes
Controlling humidity is ultimately a
industry. It’s an easy, inexpensive way to
much more energy to heat moisture-
question of establishing – and keeping
implement pro-active measures that help
laden air than to heat dry air.
– control over parameters that can have
make sure you can maintain the value of
And it does not provide a year-round
big effects on efficiency, reliability and
key structures, processes and other high-
solution. In virtually all cases, removing
profitability.
value assets.
moisture from the air using adsorption
Effective humidity management gives
As all buildings are different, and owners
dehumidification technology is
you:
have their own unique requirements, it
significantly more effective, and makes
u Better control of parameters that
is wise to get specialist advice to ensure
it possible to work with consistent levels
affect your raw materials, production
the most appropriate solution.
of effectiveness regardless of season or
processes, manufacturing installations
weather.
and fixed assets
Lindsey Henderson is sales director
u Lower costs for service, maintenance
and Dehumidification Specialist at
The heart of this process is a slowly
and refurbishment
Humidity Solutions, with over thirty
turning rotor coated with silica gel, which
u Lower energy costs and reduced
years’ experience in the humidity control
absorbs the water molecules present in
environmental impact
industry. Humidity Solutions is the
the air passing through it.
u Longer service life for buildings and
UK’s leading independent specialist
In a designated regeneration zone,
equipment
in humidification and dehumidification
the saturated rotor is then dried with a
u A way to actively prevent detrimental
systems for a wide variety of industrial,
separate flow of heated air.
processes such as rust and corrosion,
commercial and residential applications.
mould and rot, condensation, electrical
The team at Humidity Solutions will
faults, and spoilt materials and products.
design, install, service and maintain
The warm, humid regeneration air is then
bespoke systems to suit each unique
led away, and the rotor is once again ready to absorb water.
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SUMMER 2021
And better control is good business.
requirement.
DISTILLERS JOURNAL
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