The Brewers Journal April 2018, iss 3 vol 4

The magazine for the professional brewing industry

Brewers J o u r n a l

April 2018 | Volume 4, issue 3 ISSN 2059-6669

the porterhouse dublin’s craft beer original spreads its wings 21 | low- and no-alcoholbeers: upping the ante

45 | hops: forgotten and future varieties

50 | brewboard: producing great beer in cambridge

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le ad e r

Lasting Impression

T

he Porterhouse in Maiden Lane, part of London’s bustling Covent Garden, played an integral part in the formative years of me drinking “good beer”.

I’m not going to lie, the excellent haven of well-kept cask, The Harp, which is only several hundred metres away on Chandos Place, didn’t become part of my drinking diction until several years later, but The Porterhouse had more than enough to keep someone like me busy.

I was excited and enthralled by the seemingly endless taps and the brilliant white light emanating from the fridges that housed beer after beer I had never heard of, let alone tried.

And that pub was, and remains, busy. Very busy.

Granted, you (in my humble opinion) want a nice space and ideally an ambience to enjoy an exciting foray into new beer. That pub could give you the beer part, and also the ambience too, but not necessarily the space.

Unless you perused the taps at 2pm on a Tuesday, that is. Such is the popularity of what is the largest bar in London, it is a perennially hectic venue. A labyrinth of nooks, crannies, framed odes to beers gone-by and beautiful pipework that would make observing the various reflections bouncing of it over a solitary beer a fascinating affair.

You can imagine my joy then when I stumbled across a beautiful-looking building called The Fraunces Tavern near Manhattan’s Wall St a couple of years ago. Only to find out it was the company’s Porterhouse outpost in the US. Lovingly restored to mimic the finest elements of what made the London and Republic of Ireland pubs a success. All while adding it’s own unique charm and nod to US history.

Returning to New York, and that bar, in 2018, it reminded me of what appealed so much of those initial visits to the London Porterhouse. Except this time, complementing the brewery’s own produce, it was beers from Brooklyn’s Other Half and Interboro on tap, rare vintages from Firestone Walker in the fridge and, as always, Delerium Tremens in large bottles

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that shout “You should know better!” Before you crack open the second. Ok, third….

So with that in mind, it was a genuine pleasure to visit the Irish company’s new brewing facility in Dublin last month and meet those behind the business. Liam LeHart co-founded the Porterhouse in the mid nineties with the late Oliver Hughes, who since sadly passed away in 2016.

And it’s Hughes’ son Elliot, now business development manager at the tender age of 24, that is helping steer the ship alongside LeHart, head brewer Peter Mosley and the rest of the team.

The building itself could easily house several dozen of London’s breweries without breaking a sweat, with a setup that enables the company to triple capacity from its previous 10,000hl limit.

And when 70% of that beer from its old site was being channeled directly into its own bars, you can see why they’re excited about the opportunities this new facility opens to broadening its reach both locally and internationally.

So, thanks again to the team, which are the first brewery from either the Republic of Ireland or Northern Ireland to grace our cover.

Enjoy the rest of the issue. u Tim Sheahan Editor

April 2018

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co ntac t s

contacts Tim Sheahan Editor tim@rebymedia.com +44 (0)1442 780 592 Jim Robertson Head of sales jim@rebymedia.com +44 (0)1442 780 593 Josh Henderson Sales executive josh@rebymedia.com +44 (0)1442 780 594 Jon Young Publisher jon@rebymedia.com Reby Media 42 Crouchfield, Hemel Hempstead, Herts, HP1 1PA, UK

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Johnson Brewing Design has over 20 yrs experience designing, manufacturing, installing and commissioning brewing and beverage systems throughout Europe and the UK • • • •

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Industry Experts Over 20 years experience Over 100 craft breweries installed Quality equipment designed and manufactured in the UK Member of the Institute of Brewing & Distilling 07739 456 655 | 01204 887754 vincent@johnsonbrewing.co.uk

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April 2018

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or any information storage or retrieval system, without the express prior written consent of the publisher. The Brewers Journal ISSN 2059-6650 is published bimonthly by Reby Media, 42 Crouchfield, Hemel Hempstead, Hertfordshire, HP1 1PA. Subscription records are maintained at Reby Media, 42 Crouchfield, Hemel Hempstead, Hertfordshire, HP1 1PA. The Brewers Journal accepts no responsibility for the accuracy of statements or opinion given within the Journal that is not the expressly designated opinion of the Journal or its publishers. Those opinions expressed in areas other than editorial comment may not be taken as being the opinion of the Journal or its staff, and the aforementioned accept no responsibility or liability for actions that arise therefrom.

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co nte nt s

contents 21

44

50

33

12

Cover story 27 - As they bed in at their new Dublin facility, The Porterhouse Brewing Company is looking forward to broadening its reach both locally and beyond

Brewers Lectures 14 - The full lowdown on Brewers Lectures Newcastle, taking place on 13 June, 2018

COMMENTS 16 - Matthew Grant from Garbutt + Elliott on why now is the right time to grow 18 -Rob Lovatt, head brewer at Thornbridge, gives us the lowdown on kettle sours

The big issue | low- and no-alcohol beers 21 - The driving forces behind the growing demand for low-and no-alcohol beers, and insight from those brewing them

brewery tour | brewboard 44 - The team at Brewboard discuss putting Cambridge back on the brewing map

focus | future and forgotten hop varieties 50 - Simply Hops place the spotlight on hop varieties that may have passed you by, and what to look out for in the future

comment | the hop challenge 54 - Charles Faram's Ben Adams looks at the challenges facing the modern brewer

science | Brettanomyces 56-Assessing a Brettanomyces megablend

insight | labelling & branding 33 - How effective labelling and branding can elevate your brewery to the next level

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April 2018

science | using your senses 58- Brewlab talk all things using your nose

Brewers Journal

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Muntons Brewing Seminars 2018 21.02.2018

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Raw Materials: Malt, Hops, Yeast in

18.04.2018

Hop Stuff Taproom, London

collaboration with Simply Hops & Lallemand.

20.06.2018

Drygate Brewery, Glasgow

18.07.2018

Brew York, York

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Simply Hops, Tonbridge

21.11.2018

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Technical insights to ingredients including new varieties, styles, trends and innovation.

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FULLER’S ACQUIRES DARK STAR F

market and expanded bottle and can formats.”

sales. The London business has acquired a 100% stake of

more of a hobby that got out of control than a business,

the West Sussex-based business, which was established

an ethos that will remain at the centre of what we do

in 1994.

and what we’re about, after all, beer should be fun and

uller’s has acquired Dark Star Brewing, a move that will enable the brewery to hit new markets and boost

The move will enable Dark Star to reach new markets for its beers such as Hophead, APA, Dark Star Original and Revelation.

Brewing will continue at Dark Star Brewing’s Partridge

He added: “We’ve always described Dark Star as

accessible.”

Simon Dodd, managing director of The Fuller’s Beer Company, explained: “Following on from the success we have had with our acquisition of Cornish Orchards, we

Green site with managing director James Cuthbertson

have been looking at similar opportunities to invest in and

remaining at the helm and the brewery will continue to

work with young, exciting companies that have a similar

operate as a standalone business.

ethos and commitment to quality as Fuller’s.

James Cuthbertson commented: “Since our inception

“Following discussions with James and the team at

in 1994, we have continuously grown from those early

Dark Star, we could see that we could add real benefit to

days in The Evening Star Pub in Brighton to the current

the Dark Star business and it provides a great new range

brewery in Partridge Green.

of delicious cask beers that will enhance the Fuller’s

“The partnership with Fuller’s, another independent brewery with fantastic heritage and great beer at its very core, will allow us to take the brewery to the next level.

“The deal means we will continue to do what we do,

portfolio.

"Both Fuller’s and Dark Star are brewers with quality and taste at their heart. I just can’t wait to see how Dark Star innovates further with the support of Fuller’s and

but gives us huge opportunities to brew more one-off

access to our expertise in brewing, retailing and business

small batch beers hand-in-hand with exploring the export

elements such as finance, purchasing and IT systems."

Petainer launches hybrid one-way keg

P

cost and sustainability benefits which are so important to our customers’

etainer has introduced a new hybrid variant of its

CSR objectives, such

petainerKeg suitable for packaging beer, wine, cider,

reducing the carbon

as well as coffee and kombucha.

Its latest one-way petainerKeg can be filled by hand or through an automated system.

footprint and water use.”

Nigel Pritchard, chief operating officer at Petainer

The Hybrid can be used with universal coupling

Group, added: “Petainer is

systems, with flat fittings compatible with Micro Matic

the global leader in one-

A and G systems and well-type fittings compatible with

way PET kegs.

Micro Matic S and D systems, so customers know their product can be dispensed anywhere in the world.

Once empty, the keg is easier to depressurise and

“The launch of Hybrid marks another step in our growth plans as we

disassemble than other PET kegs – the chimes simply

continue to invest and

unclip from the keg body so that all parts can be recycled

innovate to ensure that we

as part of the waste stream.

are meeting the needs of

It can withstand an operating pressure of 3.10bar (45psi), with maximum operating pressure of 4.14bar (60 psi).

Erin Corstanje, group director NPD & technical support, explained: “We set out to design and develop a versatile PET keg which provides the best user-experience and

as

our customers across all of our key markets around the world.”industry, and has been a huge asset to Shepherd Neame.

“We would like to thank him for his dedication and

compatibility with existing systems which lowers the

hard work during the past six years. He will be greatly

barrier to entry for draught products.

missed, but he leaves the brewery in excellent shape for

“We have achieved this and maintained the significant

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the exciting times ahead.”

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siba agm vote goes against breweries

F

uller’s Brewery’s John Keeling was awarded the ‘Silver Tankard’ Lifetime Achievement Award by SIBA at its

BeerX event, the same day its members voted against charter changes that would have allowed the West London business to join the trade body.

John Keeling, the former head brewer and now global ambassador, was adorned with the ‘Silver Tankard’ Lifetime Achievement Award by SIBA. Buster Grant, chairman of the Society of Independent Brewers (SIBA), commented: “John Keeling’s commitment and passion for quality beer is evident to anyone that meets him, and his work for one of the UK’s most iconic brewers over the last 40 years has seen him dust off the brewing records and revive historic recipes as well as look to the future, inviting some of Britain’s finest independent brewers to join him at the mash tun.

“A fervent defender of the lunchtime pint, the winner

Commenting on his award, Keeling said: “I’ve dedicated my life to brewing great beer – and I’ve loved

of this year’s lifetime achievement award is not only

every second of it – so being recognised for doing

an extremely worthy recipient, but someone we’d

something you enjoy is a double delight.

recommend you grab a beer with.”

The award could have marked a SIBA doublewhammy for Fuller’s on the Thursday of the Liverpool event (15th March) however members of the body voted against proposed changes to its membership charter.

The motion that which was voted down by three votes

“I’d like to think that in some small way I’ve helped and inspired a number of the craft brewers who are producing such interesting beers today."

“It’s over 40 years since I first set foot in a Brewery and some 37 years since I joined Fuller’s. Reg Drury, the legendary former Fuller’s Head Brewer, was instrumental

(66 to 63) had suggested raising the body’s membership

in my success and I hope, and am confident, that I have

threshold from its current 200,000hl to 437,340hl.

passed the same degree of knowledge and passion on

As a result, breweries such as St Austell and Fuller’s are unable to join the body.

Cask launches “industry changer” canning system

to Georgina Young and the next generation of brewers at Fuller’s.”

as a depalletizer, inline date coder, nitrogen doser, pressure-sensitive labeler, shrink sleever and other components.

C

anadian manufacturer Cask has unveiled its new system, Micro-Automated Canning System (mACS),

Elsewhere, the machine’s CO2 pre-purge component evacuates oxygen prior to can filling, while the three-head

which combines a compact footprint and the ability to fill

filler’s unique technology combines fill-level sensors with

cans of various sizes.

proprietary foam-control valves.

The system can be converted to fill and seam cans of

Those features combine to produce filled cans with

varying heights and diameters — from 5.5 ounces (163

extremely low dissolved oxygen pickup of just 5-20 parts

mL) to 19.2 ounces (568 mL) in volume in less than 30

per billion — better or comparable to large-scale and

minutes.

much more expensive canning and bottling lines.

The mACS also has electric cam-driven seamers,

Cask founder Peter Love explained: The mACS

three CO2 pre-purge heads, three fill heads, and a post-fill

provides the best automated features of our various

rinser and dryer.

machines, along with new package-size flexibility — all in

The new machine measures 7 by 2.5 feet and has a very small footprint of 17.5 square feet.

Its conveyor belt can feeder allows for adding such automated pre- and post-packaging components

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April 2018

one very compact, mobile and affordable machine. It’s an industry changer.

“With this machine our customers get highly efficient filling and the ability to create new revenue streams and

Brewers Journal

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Frost step downs at Shepherd Neame

S

hepherd Neame head brewer Richard Frost retired at the end of March, calling time on 40 years in the

brewing industry.

Mike Unsworth will succeed Frost, joining the business from Carlton & United Breweries in Australia.

Frost joined the Kent-based business in 2012 after being approached for the role following a career that began as a trainee brewer with Wolverhampton and Dudley Breweries in 1978.

He explained: “I studied biology at Nottingham University and went on brewery visits as part of the course which I found really interesting.

"I wanted to do something practical with my degree, so going into the brewing industry after my studies seemed the perfect choice.”

Frost worked in a number of roles for Wolverhampton and Dudley, including shift brewer, packaging manager and technical services manager, before being promoted to site director of Camerons Brewery in Hartlepool in 1998.

He was then appointed head brewer at Banks’s brewery in Wolverhampton in 2003, and remained there for nine years before joining Shepherd Neame.

During his time at Shepherd Neame, Frost oversaw

recent years has prompted consumers to become more knowledgeable and interested in beer.

“After 40 years in brewing, I know that things will go wrong, but the key is to remain calm and deal with it.

Work with your team to sort out the problem and then think about how to stop it happening again.

“I am looking forward to being able to finally switch off and have the opportunity to play golf and see more of the world, though I will miss the variety and challenge of my work, and most of all, the people I work with."

Chief executive Jonathan Neame commented on the departure: “Richard is well-respected throughout the

major expansion of the beer portfolio, including

brewing industry, and has been a huge asset to Shepherd

introducing the Whitstable Bay Collection, extending the

Neame.

Spitfire range and winning a Gold International Brewing Award for the cask variant of the new Bear Island East Coast Pale Ale. He added: “It is a really good time to be a brewer,

“We would like to thank him for his dedication and hard work during the past six years.

"He will be greatly missed, but he leaves the brewery in excellent shape for the exciting times ahead.”

as the surge in microbreweries and craft brewers in

beverages.

“They can quickly shift to new can sizes for current

production smarter, more accessible and more profitable.

BrewBroker launched after successfully raising £390k

products, or jump from beer and cider to soft drinks and

seed investment via crowdfunding platform CrowdCube

uncarbonated beverages such as cold brew coffee, wine

last year.

and energy drinks.”

“Since it can be equipped with an array of automated

Since then, it has signed up more than eighty five industry suppliers, across the UK and Europe,

components, the mACS also enables our customers to

including Brewhouse & Kitchen and Kegstar, alongside

scale up the automation of their canning process as they

over 70 buyers.

grow and diversify.”

Marketplace enables brewers to trade directly with suppliers

The platform is designed to provide a solution for brewery, pub, restaurant, retailer or the aspiring brewer, connecting such businesses with a network of brewing, packaging and logistics partners “at the click of a mouse”.

It can work for breweries that want to scale up, to a

A

n online marketplace has launched, designed

start-up beer brand that is looking for a cost-effective

to bring together those that want to brew beer

route to market.

suppliers on one platform.

looking to source their own brand of beer to a beer lover

and enable them to trade directly with breweries and The platform, BrewBroker, is said to make beer

brewersjournal.info

Equally, it’s designed for bars, restaurants and retailers wishing to create a one-off beer for an event.

April 2018

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SKA LAUNCHES NEW MOBILE DEPALLETIZER

S

ka Fabricating has unveiled a mobile depalletizer designed for mobile canning operations and

breweries operating in tight spaces.

The new system, called Half Pint, is targeted at mobile

heights.

Half Pint incorporates an automatic push bar that loads the containers onto a chute which feeds through a rinser to the filler. The unit is made of stainless steel and

canning businesses and breweries that operate under

lightweight aluminum. It will be available with multiple

both tight space and budgetary restraints.

power configurations.

Half Pint requires little to no installation, which makes

“A true mobile depalletizer proven under mobile

the depalletizer a suitable option for canning lines from

working conditions” said Matt Vincent, President and Co-

15 CPM to 60 CPM, as well as international breweries or

Owner at Ska Fabricating. “The original design for this new

breweries with tight budgets, the manufacturer explained.

depalletizer was purchased from Owen Lingley at Craft

The system itself is also light and considered a perfect match for breweries with multi use spaces or mobile

Canning & Bottling located in Portland, OR. "We really liked some features of the original

canning operations. It is also specifically designed for low

design and we are excited to show it off with our new

clearance applications such as box trucks or low ceiling

modifications.”

Marsden launches waterproof scales

formerly head brewer at Beavertown Brewery and founder of community-based brewery Earth Station.

The collaboration was hosted by Katie McCain, brewer

M

arsden, the UK weighing scales manufacturer, has

at London’s Pressure Drop Brewing and welcomes

launched a new range of scales with IP68-certified

brewers from Truman’s Brewery, Cloudwater, Wiper &

protection from water and is pitching them at breweries.

The range includes waterproof scales suitable for

True, Fuller’s and Burnt Mill among others.

These brewers worked with the next generation of

weighing ingredients and kegs right up to palletised

female brewers from Heriot-Watt University to combine

goods.

the seasonal fruits, herbs and botanicals to produce the

Their IP68 rating means the scales can cope with water, dust and being washed down after use - crucial for keeping everything clean and hygienic.

Each scale features Marsden’s brand new IP68

beer. Those present on the day worked in partnership to decide its flavour profile, final recipe, and name.

Commenting on the collaboration, Heriot-Watt assistant brewing professor Rachel Sutherland said:

indicator. Previously, Marsden-branded IP68-certified

"This is a fantastic opportunity for our female students to

scales only had an IP67-certified indicator.

collaborate with some of the leading female figures within

Richard Black, managing director at Marsen, said: “A huge number of industries depend on waterproof

the craft beer industry.

"Beer has, throughout history, been crafted by women.

equipment. Now, the brewing industry can benefit from

Our students are proudly upholding this tradition, showing

a range of scales that are tough enough for a brewery

the next generation what they can look forward to.

environment, and last year after year.

There’s a real community in craft beer and our kettle sour

“There is very little like it on the market - and even less at this price.”

Operations Director, Mark Coates, added: “We want Marsden scales to be the brewer’s first choice for

collaboration is testament to that – and definitely not one to be missed at any of the craft beer festivals happening across the UK.” Greg Wells, founder of We Are Beer, the company

weighing equipment. We hope this range of stainless

behind the London, Edinburgh and Bristol Craft Beer

steel scales answers a lot of people’s needs”.

Festivals, who commissioned the project, commented:

Leading UK brewers team up with Heriot-Watt for collab

“We identified that 35% of our festival attendees were female and this is growing year on year.

"We believe most people still perceive ‘beer’ as quite masculine, but in actuality, that is changing dramatically,

F

ourteen of the finest female brewers have

which is good for this fast-growing sector and something

collaborated with Heriot-Watt students and lecturers

we’re striving to push forward. “We want to profile the

to brew a kettle sour beer that will showcase the very best

incredible female talent and influence on modern

in brewing. The project is spearheaded by Jenn Merrick,

brewing."

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April 2018

Brewers Journal

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N E WCA STLE

Brewers Lectures | NEWCASTLE The Brewers Lectures is coming to Newcastle this June, and what better venue to host it than The Palace of Arts, home of the mighty Wylam Brewery, So join some of the industry's leading lights for an afternoon of education and entertainment on June 13th, 2018.

S

ure, step into any bar in the US and you're likely to see someone supping a Newcastle

Brown Ale or at the very least, a fridge fully-

KEY INFORMATION

stocked with them. But thankfully, we've moved on from that being the defining

image of brewing in Newcastle-Upon-Tyne. Especially as the beer is now brewed by Heineken in the Netherlands.

Breweries such as Wylam, Almasty Brewing Co and Tyne Back reap the plaudits and rightfully so, while the

Wylam Brewery Palace of Arts Exhibition Park, Claremont Rd, Newcastle upon Tyne NE2 4PZ

number of new breweries opening across the region also continues apace, with the quality and consistency of beer being produced only going one way. And that's up.

13 June 2018 1pm to 5.30pm

So it's with great excitement to be holding our first Brewers Lectures event in Newcastle this June.

With a great lineup of speakers, ample time to network/enjoy some fine, fine beer and a wealth of

Tickets are ÂŁ25 full price and ÂŁ12.50 concesssion.

Go to lectures.brewersjournal.info

interesting and educational talks on offer, it's set to be a great afternoon.

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April 2018

Brewers Journal

N E WCA STLE

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Confirmed speakers

Rich White | London Brewing Co

Sean Knight | Fourpure Sean Knight was called “the world’s most overqualified cask washer” by Sambrook’s owner Duncan Sambrook upon joining the Battersea brewery. Fast-forward several years and as head of operations at London’s rapidlygrowing Fourpure, Sean has led the team on the latest stage of its impressive expansion. The brewery has recently concluded the installation of a 40hL 4 vessel Craft-Star brewing system, the first of its kind to hit the UK.

In 2013 Rich White moved from snowy Syracuse, NY to grey London to be with the love of his life. Rich spent years home brewing and educating himself on brewing but the move to the UK gave him a fresh start. A mixture of the charm associated with the American craft brewing scene and being in the right place at the right time landed him at the helm of London Brewing Co. Between holding it down solo at LBC and furthering his education in brewing Rich enjoys running, munching doughnuts and jumping around at punk rock shows.

Sara Barton | Brewster's Brewery

Sarah John | Boss Brewing

Sara Barton has often been described as not just a great brewer, but as the changing face of the brewing industry. She founded Brewster’s Brewery in Grantham, Lincolnshire in 1998 with the business going from strength-to-strength in the twenty years since.

Sarah John is the co-founder of Swansea-based Boss Brewing. Established in early 2015, the brewery has already scooped a raft of awards including a Great Taste Award in 2017. Sarah has steered the business to see its beers stocked in shops such as Asda, Co-op, Morrisons with distribution in bars and bottle-shops nationwide.

Fabian Clark | Muntons Gino Baart | Fermentis Fabian Clark an Anglo-German Brewer trained in Weihenstephan, near Munich. Prior to making his mark in his role as technical brewer at malt specialists Muntons, Fabian spent a year in macro brewing in Germany at Paulaner in additon to a raft of experience in skilled positions across the brewing spectrum.

brewersjournal.info

Gino Baart is a brewing professional with strong expertise in microbial cell physiology, metabolism and fermentation. He has a background in Food, Nutrition & Biotechnology (PhD), Bioprocess Engineering (MSc) and Chemical Engineering (BSc). Working as Technical Sales Manager for active dry yeast specialist Fermentis to support brewers, distillers, wine and cidermakers with creating the alcoholic beverages they want.

April 2018

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FU N D I N G

It is time to grow your brewery The here and now is one of the best times to start and grow a business within the brewery sector, explains Matthew Grant, partner at York and Leeds-based accountancy firm Garbutt + Elliott.

been earmarked for equipment and facilities to triple its capacity. An interesting aside is the investment coming from other breweries, with Hop Stuff Brewery making a significant contribution. As crowdfunding is clearly here to stay, it is important to choose the correct platform for your goals. Some have an all-or-nothing funding model, which means if you do not reach your funding goal, you

by Matthew Grant

get nothing, while others enable you to keep the funding even if you do not reach your goal – making research vital

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before embarking on a crowdfunding campaign.

the rise of new and innovative breweries is changing

recent years and there’s a plethora of local and national

consumer behaviour. People want unique flavours and

initiatives and schemes developed with the aim of

products that come from a manufacturer with a bit of a

making access to funding easier for businesses. Of

story, or brewers that are pushing the boundaries.

particular interest to small businesses are the government

espite some political upheaval in the UK

Of course, crowdfunding doesn’t necessarily work for

in recent years, the brewing sector is

every brewery looking to attract investment and expand.

one area that has seemed to continue

It could be that a small injection of cash is all that is

full steam ahead, with new operations

required to take a business to the next level. If that’s the

popping up regularly, further enhancing

case then there are a wide range of options available

the UK’s reputation as a maker of world leading beer.

A significant factor in the growth of the sector and

However, growth and success in the sector can also be

through regional grants and investment funds.

The funding landscape has changed significantly in

incentives in operation across the UK, with local

attributed to new ways to access finance to launch a new

authorities operating grants, loans and business support

business, as well as grants and incentives for start-ups

initiatives to encourage the entrepreneurial spirit.

and organisations under three years old. I want to set out

In Yorkshire alone, where the brewery sector is

a few of the most effective ways breweries can access

booming, additional regional funding is available for small

finance and secure growth.

businesses looking to establish themselves, as well as companies aiming to expand in their first three years. In

Crowdfunding is here to stay

Leeds, the Business Growth Fund and Resource Efficiency Fund provide grants of between £10,000 and £250,000 to

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SMEs and recently established companies operating in

nce upon a time crowdfunding was viewed

the Leeds City Region, providing a great opportunity for

with suspicion and there were doubts about its

owners to quickly develop and expand their business.

success. But, within the brewing sector it has

Other options include the Northern Powerhouse

proved extremely successful in raising money time and

Investment Fund, the LEP Loan and the Manufacturing

time again. BrewDog was perhaps the most famous

Growth programme, all of which offer ways for breweries

exponent of the peer-to-peer funding route and it

to reach their goals.

recently returned to the people in a bid to raise £10m.

Due to the popularity of the brewery and the desire

Of course, these kinds of incentives are not limited to Yorkshire. There are regional growth funds in place across

for people to get involved in exciting new projects in

the UK and it is certainly an avenue those in the brewing

the space, the target was smashed, with the Scottish

sector can explore.

brewer raising £11.4m in just 90 days. The cash has been

With the possibilities crowdfunding and the many and

earmarked for a new brewery at its original site in Ellon,

varied regional grants and incentives available, it’s safe to

Aberdeenshire, to help keep up with demand in the UK

say that now is the best time to grow a brewery business

and Europe. It will also be used to develop the company’s

and take it to the next level.

first sour beer facility. Smaller breweries, such as Leeds-

Whether that next level requires £10m of additional

based Northern Monk, have also turned to crowdfunding

funding or if a small business loan will be enough to

to fund their next expansion. In just three hours, the

increase capacity, the current climate means anything is

brewery raised its £500,000 funding target, which has

possible. u

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April 2018

Brewers Journal

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Co m m e nt

S our

B eers

Know the Difference Any brewer who is worth his salt will know that brewing a decent barrel-aged sour is a completely different kettle of fish to brewing a kettle sour. They require experience, time and patience to get them right, says Rob Lovatt, head brewer and production director at Thornbridge.

wort bacteria joining the party. We initially propagated at the brewery using ‘Homebrew’ vials as starter cultures.

Unfortunately, we often found the starter cultures to be pre-infected with yeast and the wort would sour but also ferment in the kettle. This reduced the overall ABV in the finished product. I decided to then buy in pitchable volumes from the USA from a reputable company, which we have found to be the best approach to producing a sour wort quickly.

by rob lovatt

The second dilemma we came across was the strain of bacteria to employ. We initially used Lactobacillus Brevis. However, this strain is the predominate strain

C

which infects standard beers! It gave us a good flavour

producing this style, rather than the more complex barrel

flavour profile we were looking for and is very sensitive to

aged sour beers mentioned above. I first tasted a kettle

iso-alpha-acid, so if it was inadvertently introduced to a

sour, or simple sours as I refer to them, when I was in

standard beer it would cause less of an issue.

onversely, kettle sours are much more

profile and an assertive sourness; but I really didn’t feel

straightforward to produce and their

comfortable with having that strain around the brewery,

dwell times are pretty much that of any

despite us having robust QA and procedure to sterilise

standard beer. That’s not to say kettle sours

everything involved with the kettle sour production. We

don’t come without their own particular

trialled various different strains of lactic acid bacteria, but

challenges and this article will discuss my approach to

finally settled on L. Delbrueckii. This strain gave us the

Philadelphia a few years back. The first impressions of the

There was also the problem with the wort residency

kettle sour I tasted were clean, sour and relatively one-

time in the kettle. If this was the last brew of the day, it

dimensional, and I guess this is where the term simple

wouldn’t be sour enough to finish off the brew the next

sour comes from. On my return I did my research and

day and holding up the brewhouse in a production

attempted to brew our own kettle sour.

brewery isn’t really an option! So, we came up with a plan

The basis of a kettle sour is that a standard, unhopped

to send the wort over to a dedicated souring tank and

wort is produced. The reason the wort needs to be

dedicated transport hoses etc. We could then leave the

unhopped is because lactic acid bacteria are sensitive to

wort souring in there; when the pH was in specification,

the iso-alpha-acids in hops, depending on the strain to

then we could fit it back into the brewing plan at our

varying degrees. The wort is then inoculated with lactic

convenience. The other advantage of this method is that

acid bacteria for 24-48 hours, until the desired pH is

we could send the wort through the heat exchanger and

reached. The beer is then boiled to kill off the lactic acid

make sure the temperature of the wort was optimum for

bacteria and is then finished off like a normal beer by the

the lactic acid bacteria.

process of a standard fermentation.

The method of souring the initial wort can be

I have to say the main faults I pick up on kettle sours are due to the infection of the initial wort during souring.

approached from different angles. A common approach

Two of the main off flavours I often detect due to wort

is to hang a bag of malt in the wort which will have natural

infections with sour beers can be described as cheesy

lactic acid bacteria on the husks of the grains. I was very

and ‘vomit-like’. These two flavours can be attributed to

hesitant to employ this method, as I was concerned that

the presence of two short-chain fatty-acids called butyric

the inoculum of lactic acid bacteria would be too low and

and isovaleric acid, which are produced by wort bacteria.

this would enable wort bacteria to join the party. Another

In fact, both of these compounds are present in Parmesan

popular method is to simply pitch in a sizeable quantity

cheese and are the very same ‘sweaty feet’ chemicals

of good quality natural yoghurt! While these methods

contained in our vomit and body odour smell. Preboiling

achieve a degree of success for some brewers, the lack

of the wort prior to souring and a fast drop in pH are key

of control over the process is not ideal in a brewery like

to minimising these off-flavours. The aim of the process is

ours. My preferred method of souring the wort is to pitch

to produce a clean, lemony, crisp sour beer which is most

a decent size pure inoculum of lactic acid bacteria. This

refreshing, so the main advice I can give is don’t scrimp

ensures rapid acidification, greatly reducing the risk of

on your inoculum! u

18

April 2018

Brewers Journal

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L ow

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When Beer is Bigger than Booze wraps of publications like The Metro and Evening

Demand for low- and no-alcohol beer is on an upward trajectory. Tired stereotypes of what constitutes such a beer, or someone that drinks them, are being disregarded and the sector is producing quality beers that cut the alcohol but the the flavour and taste.

Standard newspapers, as well as Time Out magazine in recent months. Sure the timing around ‘Dry January’ was no coincidence but the multinationals are no doubt preparing to double-down on this sector, playing the long-game in the process, to ensure they their piece of the pie.

That shouldn’t come as a surprise when you realise how much room for growth there is in the low- and noalcohol sector within the UK. Sales in the sector account for 0.5% in the UK. That may be a bit more, or a bit less, than expected depending on who you ask. But look to the

by Tim Sheahan

Netherlands (3%), Austria (4%), France (1%) and Spain with an impressive 13% and we are playing catch-up.

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According to Nielsen figures from October 2017, offhichever you paint it, alcohol

trade total sales of low- and no-alcohol drinks in the beer

consumption in the UK is

and wine arena were valued at £73.1m, up from £66.5m

falling. The British Beer and Pub

the year previous. More pertinently, in that time, beer’s

Association placed the drop in

contribution to those figures shot up from £5.6 m to

consumption at 18% since the peak

£35.5m.

of 2004 in its September 2016 numbers. Also in 2016,

“You can’t shy away from the statistics on alcohol

56.9% of respondents surveyed by the Office of National

consumption,” explains Nick Corden, head of retail

Statistics had drank alcohol in the week before being

marketing at Fuller’s. “I look at the data from our pubs and

interviewed for their Opinions and Lifestyle Survey, the

have no doubt that there is a growing appetite for low-

lowest level seen since the organisation’s series began in

and no-alcohol beers. It’s growing from a very low base

2005. And in May 2017, 20.9% of those interviewed by the

but it’s moving on an upward tracectory.”

ONS said that they do not drink alcohol.

More than ever, people are paying more attention to

Corden says Fuller’s dipped its toes into the lower side of ABV last year with the roll-out of its 2.7% Table Beer,

the impact their diet has on their wellbeing. We’re also

and intends to push the beer again more confidently in

seeing people drink less but a better quality product

2018. But it’s the truly low- and no-alcohol range where

when they do. However, it’s hard to recall a time in recent

he expects to see most growth.

memory when beer was more en vogue than it is now.

“We’ve recently listed Heineken 0.0 and want to do

The desire not to consume three, four, five pints at the

more to communicate the availability of such a beer in

local pub or bar doesn’t correlate with wanting to avoid

our pubs. It had a strong trial last year so that’s something

beer full-stop.

we’ll continue to work on. We also partner with BrewDog

And we’re reaching a point where the tired stereotype of those that don’t drink are behind us. Those drinking

Becks Blue, Kaliber or Erdinger Alcohol-Free were previously either assumed to be A) Driving B) Pregnant or C) Emerging from alcohol addiction.

But no longer. People are choosing low- and noalcohol beers by choice.

Drinks such as Budweiser Prohibition Alcohol-Free, San Miguel 0.0% and Heineken 0.0 have adorned cover

brewersjournal.info

to sell its 0.5% Nanny state beer in lots of our pubs, too.” he adds.

Although Fuller’s is working with larger breweries on the latest additions to its beers in this range, Corden stressed that the business would explore stocking beers from the wider brewing landscape, just as they have in recent months and years in an increasing number of its pubs.

“The low- and no-alcohol sector is something that

April 2018

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A

70

50

30 20

Nick Corden, Fuller’s

thing putting out an average beer but it’s a whole different ballgame when it comes to ABV. It’s a specialist industry

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and if it was so straight forward, everyone would be doing it."

2016

2015

2014

2013

2012

2011

2010

2009

2008

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2005

2006

He adds: “For us, if we can make our product taste 99%

like beer you’re used to then we’ve achieved something.

It’s down to using a nice mix of malts and hops but no flavourings, no chemicals and no lactose.

Year

“We’re all vegans here at Nirvana so our recipes tie

in to our idea of a holistic lifestyle approach. People are

2.0

Figure 1: The proportion (%) of respondents who drank alcohol in the week prior to interview, Great Britain, 2005 to 2016 1.7Those who drank at least once A: B: Those who drank on 5 days or more C: Those who do not drink

800

increasingly cautious about what they’re putting in their bodies. It started with food and it’s happening in drink, too.”

700

Dass, however, points out that the “health-conscious”

crowd only accounts for around 20% of its market.

“People want a beer during the day and might not want 600

the higher ABV associated with that. Or they might want

1.4

beers. Some businesses have set out focus exclusively on the field.

Year

“We’ve been trading for Investments eight months it’s a story Foreign Direct inbut Georgia more than two years in the making,” says Steve Dass, founder of Nirvana Brewery in East London.

The brewery, as Dass explains, can’t afford to utilise reverse osmosis or vacuum distillation so instead works with a low grain recipe approach, reducing the amount of fermentables as a result.

“We’re definitely doing it the hard way,” he laughs.

“There was a lot of beer down the drain in the early days, but that’s par for the course when you’re experimenting with a lot of variables. You need to get things right. It’s one

22

April 2018

2015

2014

2016

2015

2014

2013

2012

2011

2010

2009

2008

2007

turning their hand to producing low- and no-alcohol

2017

And in the UK, just as the number of brewery’s opening

0.5

continues to rise, so does the number of breweries

2013

pubs and bars.”

2012

long before those beers become the norm on tap in our

2011

0.8 anyone to take the lead in that space because it won’t be

2010

Nirvana 400Brewery started out with its alcohol-free Kosmic stout and its alcohol-free Tantra pale ale before the addition of its 0.5% Sutra IPA and 0.5% Karma pale ale.

300 Most recently, Nirvana moved up to 1% with its Chakra, the highest strength beer it plans to produce.

Dass agrees with Fuller’s’ Corden, that we’re not too far away200 from seeing pubs and bars move low- and noalcohol beers from the fridges and on to the taps.

“I can see it happening sooner rather than later. A Year lot of it comes down to branding and the perception of those beers and that is changing.

You and can Drink now walk into a Georgia Food exports bottle shop and have a beer of our ilk sit alongside beers with stronger ABVs. That means we’re doing something right because we don’t want to plaster ‘No Alcohol’ as the prominent detail on our labels. We want a broad appeal and like the wider beer community, it’s a case of educating the consumer on the options available to them.”

One such bottle shop that stocks low- and no-alcohol beers alongside its standard range is The Beer Boutique in Putney.

independent breweries have as much of a chance as

2009

with the lower level or absence of alcohol. And smaller,

2008

pregnant,” he adds.

1.1

2007

drinking such beers is the designated driver or if they’re

beer in that space, it needs to have the balance of flavour

2006

moved away 500 from the stereotypes where the only person

attention it deserves,” he explains. “But for a successful

Brewers Journal

2016

a break during a session involving stronger beers. We’ve matters and we would be negligent to not pay it the

2006

‘000,000,000s of USD

beer

You can’t shy away from the statistics on alcohol consumption,

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‘000,000s of USD

% of respondants

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0

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Monique Hinton, manager of the Putney store, explains: “We’ve seen sales of alcohol free or low alcohol beer increase substantially in the last six months. In January especially being a normally quiet month, post Christmas, there was no shortage of people seeking an alcohol-free alternative to their favourite beers.

"We are also seeing many people in the community surrounding our store that are turning to a more healthconscious lifestyle, while still loving their beer, alcohol free beers give them an alternative to abstaining completely.”

She adds: “I would personally love to see alcohol-free beers being canned, there is such a high demand for canned beers in the market, I think if we start to see them in cans, people will be more inclined to purchase, and as always, branding is key!”

Branding will play a big part in the offering from Infinite Session, a new business co-founded by Chris and Tom Hannaway, that launched at Craft Beer Rising in London during February.

The brothers have lived in London for the last five years and become accustomed to the wealth of excellent beer available from breweries, bars and bottle-shops. But their passion for playing Sunday League Football would sometimes mean the two were incompatible if a big Saturday night out was in order.

“We wanted to find ways we could still go out the next day without being hungover, or to be able to enjoy

brewersjournal.info

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Brewers Journal

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Beer is bigger than booze Chris Hannaway, Infinite Session

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and time again throughout the evening.”

For Steve Dass at Nirvana, which is the only bricks and mortar business brewery producing low- and no-alcohol beers, increased competition is an inevitability but one he welcomes.

“There is something like 130 breweries in London in 2018. If they can all successfully trade together then why can’t a few breweries produce beers like we are?” he asks.

It’s a sentiment shared by Rob Fink, who established Big Drop, a brewing business that solely produces beers at 0.5% or below, in April 2016.

“It is the way forward now. The more people that talk about it, the better. If it was just me, they’d think I

beer during the week and crack on without feeling

was a nutter and I have no doubt there will be other

horrendous,” explains Chris Hannaway. “And having

breweries that set up with the same focus,” he adds. “And

travelled to other countries, we found some alcohol-free

increasingly the bigger breweries will do that too. There

beers had certain qualities but not others. So German

is a move in that direction and even though we represent

ones would often have a good body while others had a

a small part of the beer market, it’s one that’s growing all

more prominent hop profile. We thought we could learn

the time.”

from this and make one that was the best of both worlds."

2017 involved in-depth research in the US and

Germany pouring over papers and journals in places such as Weihenstephan to refine the type of beer they wanted to create.

The duo are now partnering with London-based

Fink explains he has no problem drinking high ABV beers but that people are becoming more conscious about what they are drinking and eating.

"We’re drinking less but better. A lot of people are saying it but it’s true,” he explains.

Fink, who was previously a lawyer in The City of

Sambrook’s on its contract brewing operation to produce

London, says he’d increasingly see people in pubs and

a 0.5% American Pale Ale. The beer’s body is created with

bars at lunchtime but opting for a soft drink or a tea/

Pale, Caramalt, Munich, Amber, Wheat, Oats. These are

coffee rather an a beer.

complemented by Ekuanot, Citra, Mosaic, Centennial, Galena hops.

"Early on we knew whatever style we went for, we

“People end up being constrained by the choices offered to them. They’d like a quality beer low in alcohol but too often that would not exist and I was certain I

could see wheat playing an important role. In a no-

wasn’t the only one finding that lack of quality on offer,”

alcohol beer, that could add the body many lack while

he adds. “For us, the whole point is to give people an

oats provide creaminess and a head. Aesthetically that

alternative.

gives you that ‘beer experience’ others often don’t,” says Tom Hannaway.

Getting low- and no-alcohol beers on draught in as

Big Drop’s offering comprises four beers: A Stout, Pale Ale, Lager and a Spiced Ale. Like the Hannaway brothers at Infinite Session, Fink says flavour and education are

many pubs as possible is a major goal for the Hannaway

among the biggest challenges when it comes to low- and

brothers but the duo acknowledge it’s a long-term vision.

no-alcohol beers.

“When it comes to a round, opting for a beer on

It’s a case of persuading people that you can produce

draught can often make people feel a greater part of the

beers with flavour, educating them of the options

conversation and we want to champion that,” says Chris.

available,” he says. “You don’t drink our beers and think

“Stocking a bottle or a can, can frequently be a box-

you’re drinking an 8% stout but you can put our pale

ticking exercise. It’s a long-term challenge and it won’t

against ones around 3.5% and there isn’t much in it. We

change overnight but there is an undercurrent and a

have been able to show people that it is possible.”

momentum in this sector.”

He adds: “For me, we will have crossed the rubicon

He adds: “People are becoming more open-minded.

when a decent sized pub co put such beers on a keg

Craft Beer Rising showed us that drinkers want more from

line. Put it on a keg line, shout about it and look every

their beer. Sure, we had people that were welcoming

customer in the eye once they have had one and ask if

to the idea but you also had those that rolled their eyes

they wouldn’t have another.”

when they saw what we were offering. But the most

The Hannaways agree: “We don’t want to be

rewarding thing was seeing their perception change once

apologetic for being alcoholic free. We want to champion

they tasted the beer.

it and it should be a celebration because beer is bigger

“And those people were the ones that came back time

brewersjournal.info

than booze.” u

April 2018

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It moved into its previous Dublin facility in 2000 with a view of moving on within five years. 18 years on and they’ve finally got around to upping sticks, growing significantly as a result. Armed with improved capabilities and increased capacity, the team is now ready to reclaim their throne.

W

hen Oliver Hughes and Liam LaHart founded Ireland’s first brewpub, The Porterhouse in Temple Bar back in 1996, there was around 90 breweries in

operation in the UK. 22 years on and the Dublin institution, now part of a larger family of pubs, is going as strong as ever. And those UK breweries? Things have grown ever so slightly. Well, by about 2,200 going on recent figures.

The opening of The Porterhouse in Dublin back in the mid-nineties gave consumers choice when it came to their beer, something that would have been somewhat alien to many drinkers at the time. In a landscape

by Tim sheahan

brewersjournal.info

dominated by Guinness and Murphy’s, the option to

April 2018

27

“

To still be brewing beer more than two decades on is something of an achievement in my eyes Peter Mosley, Porterhouse Brewing Company

for drinkers elsewhere."

The investment Hughes mentions takes the form of a €6m spend that includes ownership of a facility on Ballyboggan Road in Dublin, a new brewhouse, fermenting vessels, filtration unit, keg filler and much more.

“We have to be honest and say we’ve not realised our potential until now. Whether that’s outside of Dublin or on the export side of things bar markets. There was no point going to bars in Ireland with our beers but not having the confidence to supply accounts on a regular basis,” says Hughes. “It’s one thing reneging on an order you've not been able to fulfil once. But do it two or three times? You can say goodbye to that relationship. And rightfully so."

have a locally-brewed ale, or peruse a beer list featuring

Head brewer and director Peter Mosley has been

offerings from Belgium and further afield was something

with the Porterhouse since 1996, so has seen significant

new.

change at the business and the broader industry it is part

Even though convincing drinkers of this as a positive

was a challenge at first.

But subsequent bar openings followed. These

of. And now with much of the hard work surrounding the expansion over, he’s looking forward to pressing on.

“We moved into the old site back in 2000 with the view

included additions in County Wicklow on the seafront in

of moving on within five years or so. But it so happened

Bray, Nassau Street in Dublin, the Fraunces Tavern in New

that we ended up there a fair bit longer! he explains. “But

York and also on Covent Garden’s Maiden Lane in Central

with this new facility, everything is new and that’s very

London. The latter is the largest bar in the capital. It’s also

exciting as a brewer.”

one that manages to boast standing room only, despite

Mosley and the team commissioned Musk

ample seating, on most evenings thanks to its ongoing

Engineering to design, manufacture and install the new

popularity.

brewhouse. A 100hl system compared to the older 65hl

So, when Hughes sadly passed away in an untimely

brewhouse it was brewing on at the previous site. This

manner in the summer of 2016, it wasn’t surprising to

is complemented by five fermenting vessels that range

see the news greeted in many circles with the same

from 50hl to 200hl in capacity. Other investment includes

regret that followed the passing of esteemed beer writer

a crossflow filtration unit from Pentair and a keg filler from

Michael Jackson in the same month 9 years prior.

Lambrechts. And keg dispense is something that has

Therefore, it seems somewhat curious then that the Porterhouse Brewing Company only launched as a brand

defined The Porterhouse since its infancy.

“When we started in 1996, we were considered

internationally last year. But for head brewer and director

unusual as our focus was on keg rather than cask beer,”

Peter Mosley, and Elliot Hughes, business development

says Hughes. “We didn’t want to sell cask beer into

manager and son of the late Oliver, patience has been

Ireland. We never wanted to do that and lots of breweries

something of a virtue when it came to spreading their

that specialised in cask died out in the late 60s and early

wings.

70s. And at the time we opened, when drinks like stout

“We’ve had absolutely no flexibility, nor ability, to create more seasonal beers until now,” explains Hughes.

“When you’re operating out of a facility than can produce

from the multinationals were incredibly popular, we were something of a departure."

Mosley joined the Irish business after leaving a position

10,000hl of beer and at least 7,000hl of that beer is

at Mitchell’s of Lancaster in the UK. As he describes,

going into your own pubs and bars, there is no room to

his time there was a positive experience but the future

manoeuvre. But that’s changing, thankfully.”

of such breweries seemed uncertain so he took the

There’s something resembling relief in Hughes’ tone.

opportunity to “weather the storm” and spend some

Business development manager of an international

time in Dublin with the “ambitious lads” that were Oliver

business while still in his twenties, he speaks with

Hughes and Liam LeHart. But more than 21 years on,

authority on the plans for the company.

Mosley still feels that there’s much work to be done.

“It was completely necessary to introduce the extra

“To still be brewing beer more than two decades on is

capacity and capabilities that come with this new facility,”

something of an achievement in my eyes. The brewing

he says. “We’re big in Dublin, but outside of it that visibility

business has been a lonely one to be in until recently with

drops dramatically. People don’t know enough about us

companies and friends coming and going,” he explains.

because we’ve not really been able to provide the beers

“We’re now seeing steady growth but it hasn’t always

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April 2018

Brewers Journal

m e e t

th e

b r e w e r

porterhouse

been that way. Go back to the nineties when we were

Mosley adds: “In the early days, Oliver and Liam said

brewing Pale Ales and you couldn’t even give them away.

the pubs and bars should act as a shop window for the

People weren’t interested."

beers we brew. They believed it could act as a means to

He adds: “But things change. Not long ago Chiller (a

get them into the hearts and minds of local drinkers, but

4.3% lager featuring Galena, Nugget, Cascade, Tettnang

also those that can enjoy them to the UK, the US and

hops) represented 50% of our production. It single-

beyond. But because the visibility of those beers was so

handedly paid the bills. But now that accounts for around

strong thanks to our pubs, people probably assume we

5% of what we brew, with most of that going to the

are a bigger outfit than we actually are. We’re just a group

Porterhouse in Covent Garden in London.”

making beer and working hard as everyone else!”

Mosley is also keen to point out that while many

And continuing to work hard is something Mosley and

drinkers will associate The Porterhouse Brewing

the team plan to do. They’ve moved from a capacity of

Company with the production of Stout and Porter, recent

10,000hl to a space that will enable them to produce

numbers ahead of the site move shows that around half

up to 30,000hl. For the company’s head brewer, he’s

of what they were brewing were its Porterhouse Pilsner

personally aiming to hit the 20,000hl mark and then take

and Temple Brau lagers.

it from there.

“We have a large range and, of course, some of those

“It’s one thing brewing lots of beer but it’s another

beers move faster than others. We’ve often had the

making it work on a commercial level, too. The two don’t

conversation about consolidating what we produce but at

always go hand-in-hand," he says. “And the longer we

the same time, beers such as Brain Blasta (a 7% ale that

continue to find our feet in this new facility, the longer the

uses Pale Malt, Roast Barley, Black Malt, Flaked Barley to

shopping list becomes.”

complement the addition Galena, Nugget and East Kent

Mosley explains: “These last months have been a slog

Goldings hops) have a special place for many drinkers,” he

and they’ve had their challenges but make no mistake,

adds. “So it’s a fine balance.”

this is an easy business to enjoy. When it comes to

And going forward, it’ll be pleasing those drinkers, and

brewing, there is always something new to see, to explore

attracting new ones that Mosley expects will drive growth

and to understand. The investment has allowed me to

at the business.

look at things differently. It has been reinvigorating.”

“We really want to see growth in Irish domestic

And for Elliot, he’s hoping that the coming years will

market. When I speak to other brewers, we all agree that

see the Porterhouse name reinvigorated in the eyes of

you need to establish yourself in your locality first. But

drinkers both old and new.

outside our pubs that wasn’t viable before the move.

“In the last five or six years we’ve probably fallen back

It’s great having the outlet in the Porterhouse pubs but

when it comes to the wider craft brewing industry,” he

the additional capacity will mean we can go after new

says. “We’ve had this brand for good 21 years, so it’s time

accounts across Dublin and beyond,” he says. “70% of our

to get out there, show people what we can do and tell our

beer has been going through our bars but we expect to

story all over again.” u

see that move.”

30

April 2018

Brewers Journal

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SET YOURSELF APART

Having fantastic beer is only part of the journey to success. Shelves are increasingly crowded so strong, impactful branding is imperative in helping your beer make the jump from the bar fridge and into the consumer’s.

W

e work a microscopic level on the

industry has never been so exciting, but for breweries,

yeast and bacteria, why wouldn’t

the market has never been so competitive. So striving

you want to represent that sort of

to achieve that business advantage on your small-pack

care in packaging?” Nick Dwyer,

sales is a no-brainer.

creative director at Beavertown

Strong packaging sells a product, so it’s far from

Brewery recently asked. “When you look at a beer

surprising that breweries are placing an increasing

fridge now, it is simply outstanding. It is like looking in a

emphasis on the way their bottles and cans look when

rainbow. Breweries are putting in more time and effort into

they go out into the wild. But there’s no one size fits all

ensuring their beers standout as much as possible.”

approach for the way beer types should, or must, look for

There’s a long-standing consensus that you

consumers, This makes the packaging proposition all the

consume a beer before you actually drink it, or that

more exciting. While design is of course key, the interplay

you drink with your eyes. Sure, this can extend to the

between the design itself and the ways these creations

appearance, and aroma, of the drink itself. At the same

can be realised on the bottle label, can label, or in other

time, though, we have all been guilty or buying that beer

instances, the can itself, continues to diversify and

because of the way the label has jumped out from the

impress. And that’s only a positive for breweries looking at

competition and said “Buy me, buy me!”. The UK brewing

varying ways to help ensure their beer stands out. u

brewersjournal.info

April 2018

33

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Bridging the gap: The six elements that link brewing and branding When it comes to stereotypes, brewing and branding throw up some doozies. Believe everything they say about beardy brewers versus Converse-clad branders and you’d despair of the two tribes ever finding common ground.

But as you might guess from our name, United By Design is all about looking for connections - and our work with breweries has meant we’ve discovered there’s much more to join us than to divide us. If you’re thinking about a branding project, these are our top six areas to look for common ground with your branding agency.

First and foremost is our shared devotion to craft. When we sit down with our brewery clients, we’re invariably inspired by their passion for what they do. Good designers want our craft to do justice to yours and while awards are amazing, it’s how that blend of our respective crafts works on the shelf and over the bar that counts.

In a crowded market, you know your products need shelf appeal but the vital part of the jigsaw is to match your branding and packaging to your audience. You need to delve into clients’ businesses and extract their unique DNA, understanding their personality and their soul. We then immerse ourselves in the lifestyle, loves and leisure of your customer and create branding that connects your story to that ideal customer.

A good design agency may steer you away from an idea that you like, advising that it won’t appeal to your all-important customer. But if they’re imposing something on you that bears no relation to your own journey, they’re not the right agency for you.

Typically our clients create a core range, with seasonal or special ales to spice things up a bit - and it’s an experimental attitude that creative agencies should be happy to embrace. Our favourite example is Brew York’s Tonkoko (see previous page), described as ‘A Bounty bar in a glass’. This award-winning milk stout is infused with coconut, tonka beans, cacao nibs and vanilla for an astonishingly

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April 2018

creamy flavour.

Today’s brewing industry lives and dies on its authenticity. Craft beer customers care about provenance and heritage and if your branding doesn’t get that link right, we’re not doing the product justice. Back to that incredible Tonkoko by Brew York. They didn’t buy fake coconut flavour. Instead they toasted loads and loads of fresh coconut, to create a beer that genuinely deserves that title of Festival Beer at CAMRA’s York Beer Festival.

It’s an approach we try to live by. Today’s craft brewers delight in drawing inspiration from a world of beer and a global marketplace in quality ingredients. And it’s the same in design.

A great example of cultural fusion is the Bone Machine Brew Company. Finnish cofounder Marko Karjalainen has spent the past few years immersing himself in the UK brewing industry and is now ready to launch his own business. Watch this space for news of this unusual blend of British and Scandinavian knowhow - all mixed up with a touch of psychotropic kosmopunk, of course.

Brewing has always been an artisanal pursuit but the modern craft beer revival has truly reconnected with communities. This is about real people who love what they do and the ripples of pride flow outwards. Being based in York has given us unrivalled access to a burgeoning craft ale scene. We’ve got clients throughout the country - we’re by no means a Yorkshire-only business. However, our county is at the heart of the craft beer trend and it’s been wonderful to discover such passion on our doorstep.

But while hyper-local is vital, the perfect storm of tradition and technology means brewers are able to find their ‘tribe’ beyond their location like never before - and export easily on a global scale.

And it’s a combination that’s revolutionised the branding and packaging industry too.

Digital technology means we can achieve full colour and high quality results for even small budgets and limited runs. With our domestic brewing trade still on the up, bigger brands trying to get a piece of the pie and a thirsty customer base actively looking for what we’ve got to offer, the future for our collaborative efforts is surely bright.

Owen Turner, United by Design.

Brewers Journal

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Meet the suppliers B S Labels

digital HP Indigo operations in the UK.This is further complemented by our silk screen, emboss and got foil capabilities. This strategy perfectly positions Berkshire

B

S Labels is a privately owned company,

Labels to provide optimum quality, consistency and

established for over 40 years and operating to

cost effective solutions for short to medium print

BRC Global standard Grade A. We supply quality,

runs, personalisation right through to longer run label

decorative self-adhesive labels for the food, drinks,

requirements.

toiletries and personal care market, as well as any other

CS Labels

industrial market requirements.Small enough to care but large enough to meet any volume needs on any paper or synthetic materials for your application. We offer cost, quality and service second to none.

Berkshire Labels

C

S Labels Ltd started life as a family screen printer in 1976. We’re proud to say that we’re still family owned and run, with the same caring ethics, but

we’ve now grown in to one of the largest digital label

B

printers in Europe. We’re proud of our staff, and we are

erkshire Labels has continually grown over

lucky to have relationships with amazing customers who

35 years to earn its position at the forefront of

use our award winning labels to make their brand really

manufacturing high quality and innovative self

stand out. Constant expansion and progression of our skill

adhesive products, shrink sleeves and wraparound

set, technologies and products means we’re constantly

reel fed labels. Our Head Office, manufacturing and

improving our service to ensure our customers, both old

warehouse sites in Hungerford, Berkshire house

and new, are enjoying up to date expertise and a great

a combination of the very latest conventional UV

service. This ensures they continue to purchase some of

flexo presses and one of the most comprehensive

the best digital labels in Europe.

brewersjournal.info

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Citrus Print Solutions

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itrus Print Solutions Ltd. are rapidly becoming the South West’s experts in Labels and Labelling.

This has been built on providing reliable and

Label.co.uk

W

e understand that brewing beer is a craft.

It takes a lot of passion and precision to get the result that you are looking for. It’s

trustworthy advice on the most suitable label types for

therefore only right that you don’t have just any old bottle

your requirement. We work with you every step of the way

labels representing your time, effort and money. With

to ensure your label works just the way you intended it to.

increasing competition an awesome brew, great label

Choosing the correct label for your application can be a

design, premium material and upholding functionality are

minefield.

surely now a must. Whether you are brewing Ale, Porter, Lager or Stout we are your label printing company. Your

Dataproof

L

et us take care of your print so you can concentrate

packaging and it’s design are the first step to tell your potential customers what to expect from your products.

on what you do best. Innprint provide bespoke

Labelnet

labels, font lenses and pump clips to producers of

craft beers, ciders and wines. We can help differentiate your brand with special foiling, metallic and varnish effects on a wide range of materials. Our in-house design studio, technical advice and stock monitoring are offered as standard. We also produce marketing media and

T

he drinks industry is big business here in the UK – and with so many breweries and wineries vying for the attention of our adult population, how can you

business stationery – in fact we can put ink on pretty

make sure that your bottled beer or wine stands out at

much anything.

the bar or on the supermarket shelf? Custom bottle labels

Fast Labels

allow you to channel your creativity into a bold, distinctive design that will sell your brand’s story. Boasting state of

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the art printing facilities, Labelnet is perfectly positioned hether you’re putting a new brand of beer

to deliver professional-standard custom bottle labels for

out to the mass market, or want to make your

all manner of branding projects.

craft-brewed ale look highly professional,

The Label Makers

our beer labels will tick every box for some of the UK’s lowest prices. Your custom beer bottle labels will be printed on matt or gloss material using our class-leading 1200dpi Xeikon printers and FDA-approved toner (with more finishes available upon request). The result is a label with razor sharp detail and vibrant colour for a

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ased in West Yorkshire we are a private, family owned business which places customer service at the heart of everything we do, and are proud

true ‘supermarket shelf-quality’ look. With Fast Labels,

to be suppliers to some of the UK’s leading brands,

there are two materials available to choose from. There’s

covering many market sectors including food, beverages,

polypropylene, which is waterproof and tear-resistant for

personal care, petro chemical and decorative coatings.

any use.

From design concept through to finished labels - we offer a tailor made, personal service dedicated to

Label Express

communicating the strongest on-pack message to your customers. We have a great team here just waiting to help with any queries or information you may need.

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abel Apeel are an award-winning printer offering

Mercian Labels

flexo and digital print and design of self-adhesive labels. We have an unrivalled reputation for

working within the FMCG, retail and beers, wines and spirits sectors and making our clients smile. Our experience and knowledge of what gives labels great shelf appeal is encyclopaedia sized. Our team has many

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ercian Labels is a multi-award winning manufacturer of custom printed self adhesive labels, cartons and security

years of experience of high quality label production and

seals. Businesses choose us because we consistently

label applications.

deliver short lead times and superb service. For 48 years we have been trusted by business of all sizes, from UK wide entrepreneurial business start-ups placing

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Reflex Label Plus

their first label order, to global ‘blue chip‘ companies and ‘trade‘ buyers seeking strategic partners to help them grow their businesses. We operate from 2 manufacturing sites in the UK with 55 employees and benefit from over 9,000 business customers, exporting to over 20 countries across 6 continents.

Packaging for Retail

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e aim to be the UK’s leading supplier and manufacturer of value added, quality assured printed labels and printed laminates. We

have comprehensive certification. Our journey toward achieving this aim is supported by investment in our people and technology. Working from its multi site locations across the UK; Reflex Label Plus is delivering

C

hoose from the wide range of Plain Craft

difference daily to major brands within the Beers, Wines

Packaging in our shop and take advantage of

and Spirits sectors through its innovative techniques and

our great prices and low MOQ’s. We can also

manufacturing processes.

design and manufacture bespoke packaging to your

Royston Labels

specification. Alternatively send us your artwork or use the Cutter Key facility on the site to create your own design – we can help with that! 50% of our customers are first time buyers. We are experienced in guiding customers through the packaging process systems in order to arrive at the best product packaging result for them.

PeterLynn Labels

T

he Royston brand is defined by a commitment to innovation and a culture of continuous improvement. We are constantly investing in

new technologies which aid the development of our processes and allow us to pioneer new standards, keeping us in a leading position within our industry.

O

United By Design

ur range of presses allows us to offer both flexographic printed labels, and digitally printed labels, and we stock an extensive range of label

materials. We offer a consistently high level of service and customer care regardless of whether small or large quantities of labels are required, which is borne out by our annual customer survey results. We are an approved

U

nited by Design is a branding and graphic design agency. We work with drink and food brands creatively and strategically to transform business

and deliver results. Extensive experience working with

supplier to many companies in various industries. Our

breweries of different sizes to create branding, pump

labels can be found in Boots, Next and other leading

clips, bottle labels, marketing materials, merchandise,

retailers, demonstrating our quality and service.From 1

websites and exhibition design. A passion for beer, lager

colour to 8 colour custom printed labels, security labels,

and cider, raising awareness of the industry and bringing

asset labels, barcode and serial numbered labels. We

return on investment to companies drives what we do.

have the facilities to cater for your requirements from

We BrandHappy

small to multi million print runs.

Vista Labels

Quicklabel Systems

P

Printing your own custom beer labels is a match for the craft beer tradition of small batch production. With their own QuickLabel printer,

A

s one of the UK's foremost label printers Vista has achieved many accreditations and accolades including internationally recognised print

awards, whilst continuing to advance the boundaries

brewers can instantly make short runs of beer labels

of excellence. Constantly seeking new and improved

without the “minimum purchase” of labels required by

manufacturing processes, Vista has made substantial

commercial printers. They can also offer private label

investments in state of the art digital technology and

and personalised beer labels. QuickLabel introduced the

developed innovative production techniques to raise

first tabletop digital colour label printer and continues to

quality and drive down costs, whilst actively pursuing a

innovate labelling solutions specifically for manufacturers

policy of waste management and ethical trading. Vistas

and processors who want to print product labels in-

tireless approach has made them leaders in food and

house.

beverage industry, supplying to many internationally recognised brands from bakeries to breweries.

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The digital advantage The craft beer market is rapidly changing, and now is definitely not the time to hide one’s light under a bushel when it comes to branding and packaging, explains Simon Smith, managing director of award winning digital label manufacturer CS Labels.

unique codes and even AR (Augmented reality) is easily incorporated with digital print, as there are no printing plates to manufacture.

Print runs can be very short (although we also print long runs with millions of labels!). If you have a limited edition or want to market test, or for a special event, digital is worth exploring as it could be your very best option.

In addition, lead times are fast and roduct launches can be executed in a matter of days while waste is

by Simon Smith

minimal – order only what you need – no high minimum order quantities.

I

Digital label printing is overall much greener than

t’s disheartening to see so many good beers

traditional methods. It uses less raw materials, energy

overlooked because of dull branding or cheap

and water. Our xeikon digital printing presses produce

labelling. We speak with brewers every week

no hazardous emissions of VOCs (Volatile organic

and whether they are new to digital print or even

compounds), they don’t use any process water, so don’t

new to the brewing market, our mantra is always

cause any water pollution.

to encourage them to really showcase their beer with

So get creative, don’t be afraid to ask for advice; and,

excellent packaging. If you are not giving as much energy

most importantly, make your beer truly stand out on the

to your packaging as you do your beer, maybe now is the

shelf! u

time to rethink, even if it means spending just a little more than you normally would on your labelling.

We advise those in brewing to use their labelling as advertising, and genuinely don’t be afraid to experiment

Choosing your provider

with embellishments such as embossing, spot varnishing or foil if it’s appropriate for that product. All of these special effects are now available digitally from certain

When choosing a digital label printer, it’s worth bearing the following in mind:

printers. Incorporating them means you are able to add a genuinely justified premium on to your beer – adding value to your brand, and to the customer experience.

Design and structure can also be crucial. Our client Northern Monk has seen major success in recent times with its bold, vibrant take on labelling. Most recently we won several print and graphic design awards for an information rich ‘peel and reveal’ label that opens out like a leaflet. The team at NMBCo created the beer and concept with Lonely Planet and Fieldwork Brewing and really made the most of digital print. We helped to optimise the artwork (a service we offer all customers) and have worked with them over the years on several successful product lines including the ongoing Patrons Project.

If you choose a digital print house for your labels, as opposed to a traditional flexographic or lithographic company, you are able to enjoy many extra benefits.

• Do they understand your market – have they had success previously?

• Are they able to offer useful branding advice on your labels if you need it?

• Will they send you different label samples that are appropriate to your product?

• Do they see you as a partner and the project as a collaboration, rather than you being just a number?

• Can they offer you different options to suit your budget?

• Are you able to visit their premises and see digital printing in action?

• Will they do what they say they will when it comes to delivery and deadlines?

You can print multiple designs of the same size on the same print run! Creative campaigns, various label designs,

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Start at the Beginning Bernadette Walsh from Packaging for Retail provides some useful tips to anyone in the brewing community who is thinking about packaging for the first time.

In particular perhaps, smaller brewers that make great beer but need that helping hand on packaging decisions.

to a 125gsm. This makes a world of difference in terms of strength and finished ‘feel’. If it’s a solid board, it needs to be at least 600 microns in thickness to take the weight of full bottles of beer.

What about design? Packaging ends up in the recycling bin. Before that it has an important job to do.

How good is the cardboard engineering? Clever design makes a difference to you and the consumer. To you it’s about ease of construction and looking great: is it robust and so holds its quality and shape? Does it mark easily?

by Bernadette Walsh

Does it have integral dividers? Do you need it to hold different sized bottles (perhaps with the addition of a

L

fitment)?

et me start, if you know your onions when it

What about your bottom! There a few types of bottom

comes to packaging – this short article isn’t

closure, including crash lock, envelope base, tuck-in or

for you!

just plain taped over. Crash lock is used for longer runs as

The benefits of great packaging and

it’s an automated gluing process. They’re quick to make

the value it adds to your product is well

up. An envelope base is ideal for shorter runs but take a

documented. I remember reading an article by Richard

few more seconds to make up. However, the envelope

Reed, the co-founder of Innocent Drinks. In it he suggests

base has to be made up properly, or the product will fall

that packaging is so important that it’s almost more

through. Make sure your supplier gives you guidance or a

important than the product! ‘It’s crazy how important

diagram.Another cost related factor is the quantity – most

packaging is!.....it’s how you get noticed and create desire

suppliers have a minimum order quantity. Negotiate –

and impute what it is you are and stand for."

smaller suppliers in particular will be open to selling in

As we all know packaging fulfils a range of functions

smaller numbers to niche producers. There might be a

– security of the product; it provides information to

slightly higher unit cost, but this can be outweighed by

consumers; it can control the size and quantity of the

advantages in cash flow and storage space.

product; it provides containment to more than one item –

What about storage? Lack of space is often an issue

imagine buying a packet of spaghetti without packaging.

for micro- producers. Ask your supplier – another option

In addition, packaging is about branding. As Richard Reed

might be that you order in higher numbers but take them

suggests ‘What does your brand say about you and your

when you need them.

product? What do you want it to say?’

So, what might you need to consider when it comes to your packaging?

So, you’ve bought some good quality packaging – how will you brand it? There are lots of choices: labels, tags, rubber stamps & attachments, as well as printing. There

Firstly, brewers are so busy making great beer that

are many printing options - and degrees of quality. Don’t

the task of packaging it slips further and further down

think that printing is automatically the best way to brand

the to-do list. We’re all guilty of doing the things we love

your product. Digital printing has become very common

because it’s what we’re good at. These same people are

– but the quality is variable. Is it possible to see samples

usually all over social media and at every food fair and

of the work? Options for printing include screen printing,

market trying to get noticed and drive sales. At some

digital, flexo, and litho-laminate. Any good supplier will

point though we all have to step back and plan ahead.

talk you through each of the options and the pros and

Investing in some quality, attractive packaging is a really

cons of each. Litho-laminate provides the best quality but

great way to create desire for the product and increase

is typically done in high numbers to be cost effective.

the units sold. The cost of packaging is of course an

In summary then, we know that packaging adds value,

important concern. To get value for money what should

but it’s important to choose the option that tells the story

you be looking for? Check the type of board specified: is

you want to tell and creates interest and desire for your

it a solid board or a corrugated board? If it’s corrugated it

product. Establish a relationship built on trust with your

has a cushioning effect, and in a good quality board the

supplier - they can work within your constraints and help

outside liner (top-liner) would be a 150gsm as opposed

to add real value to your business. u

40

April 2018

Brewers Journal

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Fo cu s

L abell i ng

and

B rand i ng

Keep up with a changing game Brewing has always been about more than just the beer, with sales and marketing skills highly prized and critical to sustainability for any brewing business.

But the game keeps changing and todays brewer now must wear another hat, as they get to grips with sophisticated and expensive in house canning, bottling and labelling lines, explains Vicky Waine, labelling expert and marketing and sales manager at PeterLynn.

by Vicky Waine

O

you need them. It’s also really important that your label supplier understands the specific requirements for machine applied labels.

There are many Label Companies out there, but they are not all created equal so choose carefully and ask for recommendations from successful breweries whose work you like and have a similar setup to you. Make sure you are working directly with a label manufacturer too, not just a broker or you will end up paying too much for your labels. u

Important points to check: • When labelling at high speed insist

ur clients tell us that in-house canning and labelling allows them to take control of deadlines and be more innovative and responsive to consumer demand.

•

Pre-printed cans are great, but in todays

digital age the ability to make changes or add new products to the range without high minimum orders and long lead times is invaluable and separate, digitally printed labels give you that flexibility.

Taking canning and label application in house and partnering with a responsive and reliable labelling Company means you can bring newly brewed beers to

•

market in mere days (of course, once you have done the hard work of brewing them in the first place!)

We are just label experts, so we won’t offer you advice on what line to choose, our client Cloudwater get on very well with their ABE Lincan 60 canning line, but there is no one size fits all solution so seek advice and recommendations from other breweries and research all the options well.

Considerations to make when making the jump to a high-speed labelling line.

First of all, it’s absolutely critical your label supplier is fast and reliable because once you start canning and

•

on a high-slip varnish finish to your label as this avoids scuffing your precious design!

Label liners / backing papers must be suitable for high speed labelling.

You need a strong backing paper or plastic liner, with a minimum cut on your label, as it will be put under significant tension and if the backing snaps in the middle of a run it can cause chaos. sk for big rolls to the maximum roll diameter your machine can accommodate. The last thing you need is lots of small rolls. Big rolls reduce stopping and starting and therefore the risk of anything going wrong!

Any good labelling Company should provide you with a free sample roll for testing on your applicator line. This is so helpful during the installation process. Make sure you get it all right before you hit production!

labelling in house your pace is going to pick up quickly and it will be essential you get your supplies in when

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Brewers Journal

m e e t

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brewboard

The new kid in town

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brewboard

Drawing upon their respect for the very best in modern UK brewing, Stuart Chambers, Paul Archer, Oliver Pugh and Nick Davis, threw open the doors to BrewBoard late last year. And having hit the ground running, the team now want to put Cambridge back on the brewing map.

m e e t

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charter transferred the supervision of baking, forestalling, regrating, selling food, and weights and measures from the city to the university. Brewing was also part of this group, with the revenues made from such practices taken from the city and redirected to the university. Baking? Ok. the sale of food? Fine. But brewing?

That was surely a low blow….

But a mere 636 years on, brewing is thankfully alive and well in Cambridge and its environs with brewers free to make an honest living from the practice. And a short 15 minute drive from the famous university, the team at

by Tim Sheahan

BrewBoard are doing just that.

BrewBoard officially launched last September and the

Y

team behind the brewery is determined to make its mark

as The Peasants' Revolt.

what drives him as a brewer. He pinpoints outfits such as

ou wouldn’t have wanted be a royal official or justice of the peace around Cambridge

in Cambridge, and beyond.

“Modern UK brewing is my passion," explains

in the heady summer days of 1381. High

production director Stuart Chambers. “I have a great deal

taxation levels, political instability and a raft

of appreciation and respect for well-made cask beer, but

of socio-economic tensions that were still

my real enthusiasm is for the modern keg-driven craft

being felt following the devastating Black Death from 40 years prior, led to the major uprising that became known Having spread across large parts of the UK, the rebels

scene.”

Chambers doesn’t mince his words when it comes to Siren, Brew By Numbers, Beavertown, Buxton, Fourpure,

took out their frustrations on those above them, exacting

Marble and Magic Rock as great modern UK breweries

rough justice on many high-up figures in places such as

and companies he, and the team, have a great deal of

the University of Cambridge and in Bury St Edmunds. At

respect for.

least 1,500 people met an untimely end at the hands of

“I like the impact of hops and the exquisite affect they

the repressed in that six month period but the following

have on the beers,” he says, “Then you have the clever

year, the university got its own back.

use of adjuncts and incredible barrel-ageing projects

A new town charter was swiftly drawn up to punish

from breweries such as Wild Beer Co. Combine that with

Cambridge’s involvement in the revolt. In doing so, the

the collaboration and community we have here in the UK

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April 2018

45

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“

brewboard

and it’s really special.”

As with many that enter the brewing industry, Chambers had a realisation that brewing was his calling and once that devil was on his shoulder, there was no shaking it off.

“I’ve been involved in brewing for many years, and in this time I have had the opportunity to meet and become friends with brewers who are recognised as some of the best in the country. In doing so, it made me reconsider what I was doing for a living and become a brewer,” he says. “It’s inspired me with the drive to get out there and develop our beers to make the best ones we possibly can.”

Over time, Chambers built up a pretty comprehensive pilot kit, something he still uses today for testing out

You need excellent beer and strong branding in this day-and-age Paul Archer, BrewBoard

the bedrock of our offering is a session pale, an American style Pale, a modern stout and a heavyweight IPA.”

recipes.

"Our good friend Joe Ince at Marble, who brewed with me on that kit, taught me a lot of the tricks of the trade along with the guys at Beavertown who have also been very helpful to us. They have all been great and you can learn such a lot with these guys,” he explains.

And Chambers and the team have used that knowledge well in the formative months BrewBoard has been in business. Based in Harston, Cambridge, BrewBoard operates from a facility that originally housed a 2-barrel brewery that has since vacated.

“We stripped it all out and the whole building was

These come in the form of Ripchord, a 4.3% sessions

pale ale featuring US Cascade, Chinook and Falconer’s

Flight to impart a citrussy, spicy and grapefruity flavour. In addition Mosaic produces a tropical tang while Cara Gold and Cara Ruby malt offer up a rich caramel-sweet aroma and toffee-like flavour.

The 5.1% Lakota is an American pale ale utilising

Amarillo and Citra alongside Chinook, Mosaic and Ekuanot. Cara Gold once again a toffee flavour and sweet caramel scent. Other core beers include the 6.5% IPA Turmoil while its 5.3% stout Fathergrime showcases

modified to our plans. The brewhouse was commissioned

Munich and Roasted Barley before Cara Clair lends its

in March 2017, manufactured in Burton upon Trent and

weight for both body and biscuity aroma. The addition

delivered in June. Once the install was completed we ran

of Magnum, Mosaic and Falconer’s Flight hops present

our first two brew lengths - an American Pale Ale and a

orange and herbal flavours and fruity and floral finish.

Session Pale. Joe Ince, as mentioned earlier, helped out immeasurably during that crazy week,” he explains.

BrewBoard operates an 18bbl single infusion brew kit.

The team at BrewBoard have confidence in their beers but are also under no illusions of the increasingly competitive market they are now part of.

They currently have three 30HL cylindro conical jacketed

“Of course it will be challenging. But we’ve been

FV’s with plans in place for further fermenters to increase

working on this project for almost two years and spent

its capacity. Elsewhere an electrically heated 40hl HLT

a great deal of time researching it,” says Archer “There

and a 40hl CLT forms part of the setup.

are a lot of breweries out there and clearly we want to

The grist case is loaded from the malt store which

distribute our beer nationally. But looking more locally at

is on the first floor above the Mash tun, something that

Cambridge as a first move, we felt there was room in the

makes loading “nice and easy”.

market for a craft brewery like ours. And that has been

“We use a single infusion mash tun with a wedge wire

validated by the reception the beer has received. It’s given

base. Our kettle has a gas fired blast tube with a 30HL

us confidence that there is the scope to complement the

capacity and is fitted with a recirculation / whirlpool inlet

bigger, established, brands with newer, locally-produced

and we are considering installing an external hop dosing

beer.”

system to help with extraction,” says Chambers.

BrewBoard launched with a number of beers, recipes

The brewery is working with some local wholesalers on the off-trade front. Businesses that have come from

that were tested, mulled over and discussed for many

a wine background who are getting in to the craft beer

months before they went live.

scene and able to distribute in and around Cambridge.

“The decision on core beer styles came about after a huge number of tasting sessions of beers from far and wide, many late into the night!” explains Chambers. “We have made decisions based on what tastes good to us and that we think like minded beer drinkers will like. So

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April 2018

The team, as Archer explains, are knocking on doors, too.

BrewBoard has opted for keg and cans to distribute their beers.

“You need excellent beer and strong branding in this day-and-age. I think the combination of can and keg

Brewers Journal

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brewboard

Oliver Pugh, Stuart Chambers and Paul Archer

has worked well alongside that. Sure, some pubs further

will play an even bigger part of the business as we enter

afield are still unsure on the can proposition but it’s been

the Spring and Summer months.

a positive experience on the whole,” says Archer.

Creative director Oliver Pugh, who was intergral on the

“We’re currently opening the taproom a few times a month. It’s a great way to sell beer and get the name out

branding front, believes that it was key for BrewBoard to

there, explains finance director Paul Archer. “It houses a

forge its own path from the off.

10-tap wall and the healthier margin that direct sales to

He explains: “As far as we’re concerned, we’re trying to do our own thing but also something that people are

the public brings has really helped with our cashflow.”

He adds: “We came in here in Jan 2017 and spent first

engaged with and can get behind. If we can’t do that then

six months building and cleaning. In that time, we were

we will fall at the first hurdle. We’re entering a crowded

selling other people’s beer from the taproom in addition

market and so we are not in a position to be arrogant. The

to small quantities of our own. We got that going and had

polar opposite, in fact. That said, if we want to tread our

an immediate flow of cash for the business. Having the

own path, it’s imperative that we’re all happy with it, and

taproom is a big positive and one that makes complete

consequently comfortable selling it.”

sense.”

Pugh acknowledged that beer branding clearly can range from the quiet to the noisy and there’s no doubt that both have their place.

“Nail the quiet stuff successfully and it’ll end up louder

With everything in its right place, Archer says now is the time to look ahead and grasp the opportunity..

“We are at the stage where we want to spread our wings and that involves expanding our reach in the UK to

than the noisy stuff,” he explains. “Anyway, there are

include places such as London, Manchester and Leeds,

numerous great examples throughout the spectrum already

as well as looking into export markets,” he says. “We’re

out there and hopefully by doing our own thing, albeit in a

looking for partners and looking to expand. If those

busy arena, we’ll find our place. Time will tell, I suppose but

opportunities come off then we can utilise spare capacity

one thing is for sure, we’ll be trying our asses off.”

and expand from 3 FVs to 7 FVs . The brewhouse is set up

And working their assess off is something Pugh and the team aren’t afraid of doing. Future expansion is already being eyed and the growing taproom proposition

48

April 2018

for all of that so it’s down to getting those conversations moving."

“We have products we believe in.” u

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fo cu s

future

and

forgotten

hops

Future and Forgotten Hop Varieties There is more to life outside the ‘Big seven’ hops, explains Phil Lowry, who handles Europe and Africa sales for Simply Hops. And if you take the time to investigate so-called forgotten hop varieties, while keeping an eye on excellent new ones that are just asking to be brewed with, you could soon have the key ingredient for your new signature beer.

I then want to focus on some exciting hops that are will become available in the future. They just need people to be brave enough to give them ago.

Forgotten varieties

E

ndeavour is a forgotten variety. It's very ‘English’ but spicy and green. Its English Cascade in its heritage and offers up lots of limey and lemon

flavours. Simply put, it is fantastic and there good volumes available but it's not getting a lot of traction as people come in wanting Challenger and East Kent

by Phil Lowry

Golding. I’ve used it in my own brewery so much it has become our stock English hop. Frankly, I can’t believe

I

nobody is talking about it. Give it a go!

n my years as a beer buyer, I would be looking

Brewers Gold is a variety that is grown in both

for a beer with purpose. I’d be on the lookout for

Germany the US and some in Belgium, too. In the US, it

a beer that had a sense of application in mind. So

was the Pale Ale hop while the crops grown in Germany

now, working in and around hops, I’m maddeningly

were used in lots of Belgian Pale Ales as well as in

curious when I receive an email from a customer

Saisons thanks to its spicy and herb-like qualities. For me,

looking for hops that follows the frustrating familiar path

the US hops shows like a light version of Chinook. It’s all

of:

pineapple, grapefruit with pine and resin coming through.

“Hi, I’m looking for Citra, Galaxy, Simcoe, and Nelson

I’m fortunate getting to travel to Europe, Africa and the US. And a trend I see is the continued growth of session-

Sauvin”.

From that point, I know how the rest of the message is

strength beers, something I expect to stick around for a

going to go and that’s the type of email I get all day, every

long time to come. Mount Hood was previously popular in

day, without fail.

English Pales and now it’s finding favour in Session IPAs.

And as a hop vendor, and having seen the full portfolio

It’s amazing in light sessions styles with lots of grapefruit

of hops a company like ours can offer, I can’t help but feel

and peach. Everyone loves a pint of Oakham JHB, right?

that many breweries are missing a trick and missing the

So if you do, you’ll enjoy this hop. At less than 20 Euro a

opportunities these hops can present to them.

kilo, it’s affordable but once again, when do you last hear

So here, I want to draw your attention to some of the hop varieties that have passed people by, those that

someone celebrating it?

Summit was the hop of choice for our Underdog

haven’t found a home, and the ones that may have been

Brewing Competition in 2016. Each year we invite craft

succeeded by higher alpha varieties.

brewers across Europe to take part in a battle of the

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Brewers Journal

future

beers to show us their skill, creativity and dedication to

and

forgotten

hops

fo cu s

Citra (left) and Mount Hood hop varieties

flavour. The competition bans the use of the most popular hop varieties in craft brewing and instead gives you one under-used, full-of-potential hop, to show what you can do. By showing a true understanding of the hop itself

guys to use them. The opportunity is there for you to take

and skill when combining different ingredients, the victor

and when you have such great yeast on offer from places

brews a beer that delivers big balanced flavours in the

such as Lallemand, the interplay potential between the

true craft style.

hops and yeast is very exciting.

We chose Summit that year because of its sold very

Future varieties

much as an Alpha bittering hop. It has high dry hopping potential but shows pure pink grapefruit. Some of the results were incredibly impressive with lots of rich orange coming through. Again, you’re not talking crazy money either.

I’m sure at some point you’ve all had an Anchor Liberty Ale from Anchor Brewery. So hear we are. It’s a versatile

I

get a real kick seeing what is coming out and we’re lucky at Barth Haas as we have a 50% shareholding in the HBC (Hop Breeding Company). One hop that

has emerged from that is HBC 472 and it is bizarre, in

US hop that can be used in many pale ales. It shows up

the best way possible. It shows up as pineapple, cedar

with low pine and low resin and frankly, it’s a solid quality

and coconut. I used it recently in the Mexican lager we

hop. I think of it as an engine room hop with old-school

brewed as part of the 3/9 Project at Harbour Brewing,

aroma and some sherbet, too. Think fruit sweets and

and it showed up really well in the dry-hop. It combines

you’re getting there.

good alpha qualities and crazy oils. Bonkers!

There are many varieties sitting there waiting for you

brewersjournal.info

HBC 431 is a personal favourite of mine. It’s not a big

April 2018

51

fo cu s

future

and

forgotten

gun like some of the newer American hops but it shows strawberry jam and soft red fruits. It’s a hop that plays

hops

Ella: Works incredibly well in lagers and has amazing availability

really well with Ekuanot and one where you can use a lot, or use a little, and get different results. It’ll work well in the hazy IPAs, too.

Ella is not in the same vein as Galaxy, Vic Secret or

the match up take so if you like get on it and contracted out of going to have regular discussions not just on the

Topaz but I adore the hop. It’s used in lots of blends in

contracts but importantly on what is coming out what is

Australia and works incredibly well in lagers. You can

the reliability and what is coming down the pipe. that is

expect beautiful rich Seville oranges and tangerine from

how we can go back to the Farmers an offer distance c

this solid crop that has amazing availability.

the persistence of life is what you need to keep the prices

The first commercial hop of BRU-1 was in 2016 where

not going batshit crazy my behalf of Mandarin a few years

it was showcased on an experimental level at the Craft

ago when I went sky High and then it came crashing back

Brewers Conference. Grown by Brulotte Farms, a small

down volatility drives me up the wall.

family setup in Yakima, the hops is pure pineapple sweets

New styles are coming down the line all of the time.

and the beer produced with it for that event were by far

Different hops work in different ways with different yeasts.

the most exciting.

Biotransformation is a hot topic and it’s fascinating

This a new Australian experimental hop that is a peach

how the volumes you dry hop with, what you were dry

and passion fruit bomb. To my mind, it’s an Amarillo killer

hopping, the ratios, temperatures and with what yeasts.

and its stunning. But for hops like this, and when looking

So do engage with new hops and be analytical and ask

at the bigger picture, you need to stay in touch with your

yourself, how can this sit within your portfolio and if you

hop vendor. Regular discussions are so integral and if

can grow a brand around it. Who knows, one of these

you like a hop, get it contracted so we can go back to the

hops could end up being central to your future signature

farmers with the all-important numbers.

beer.

Try and garner a very good relationship which your

But do stay in touch with your hop dealer. Have regular

favourite hop supplier. AU35 and to my mind it's an

conversations, maintain that dialogue and utilise social

Amarillo killer is stunning. there's anything 3 harvests of it

media because that’s what it’s there for! u

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Brewers Journal

join the debate

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Brewers c o n g r e s s

hops

Co m m e nt

Hops: Use your palette Hops have become perhaps the defining characteristic of beer in recent times and the aromas and flavours that hops impart are central to many, if not most, of today's best selling beers. The supply of hops, specifically sought after proprietary varieties has been one of the biggest challenges facing the modern brewer, explains Ben Adams, technical sales manager at Charles Faram.

by Ben Adams

H

ops, like any other crop, take time to grow and the industry has been racing to catch up with the demand of the craft breweries. The extremely rapid growth over the last ten years or so has been

responded to by growers, with acreage in the US alone doubling since 2011. The biggest growth in acreage has been in the aroma market – those varieties which impart the intense fruit characters so much in demand for todays hop-forward beers.

A large surplus from the 2017 crop of those types has been eaten up in some part by global brewers, hungry for alpha not supplied by difficult recent harvests in Germany.

Taking the caveat that each variety has its own particular issues, with the slowing in growth of the craft beer market an equilibrium of sorts has been reached. Ready supply of most varieties is less of a challenge for brewers than it has been for many years.

One thing I am most often asked by brewers looking

released). Third are the varieties grown in a different

for a unique angle to set their beers apart in a crowded

country than their origin exploiting the nuance of terroir

marketplace is ‘What is new?’ - a difficult question which

such as UK Chinook or Taiheke from New Zealand.

I try and split down to three categories. Firstly brand new

It should also be noted that newness doesn’t equal

crosses – this is an expensive and very time-consuming

character – I am certain if Comet with its clean citrus and

process which is high risk but can produce some of the

mango or Summit with its intense pink grapefruit aromas

most exciting varieties such as Mosaic, Nelson Sauvin,

were released today as ‘new’ they would be feted. Try

Huell Melon and Jester.

them!

Growers and merchants in every hop growing area in

Commercial variety

the world have breeding programs which are working hard to feed this desire for ‘new’, delicately balancing the need of the farmers for stable investment and growth

A

hop that becomes a successful commercial

with the demand from brewers.

variety will have seen hundreds of thousands of

It should be remembered that whereas a brewer

its stablemates rejected. Secondly there are the

may desire a hop for a seasonal or even one-off brew,

‘rediscovered’ varieties from seedbank archives which

the farmer is planting a hop that will hopefully yield for

may have been rejected or overlooked in the past getting

up to 20 years. What is certain is that the brewer today

a second chance (do not forget both Cascade and Citra

has a wider palette of hops available to them than ever

languished for decades before being commercially

before.u

54

April 2018

Brewers Journal

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S c i e n c e

B rettanomyces

Brettanomyces Megablend Last year, attendees of Brew Con 2017 were encouraged to bring their favourite yeast, bottle sediment, wild capture or cultures to the event so Brewlab could combine them to make a ‘super’ culture.

The company’s lab manager Alison Hedley collected, streaked and mixed the samples that were propagated in one of their culture tanks at Brewlab to be distributed to any brewer wanting to brew with the the megablend. Here is the project’s interim report.

Figure 1, Microbial morphologies of initial MegaBlend.

X200

I

n the first of two interim reports on the MegaBlend project, Brewlab’s Dr Keith Thomas aims to assess the characteristics of the MegaBlend generated in December last year. The protocol for this involved samples of the MegaBlend being observed in

standard light microscopy to determine the morphology of cells.

The observations indicated the presence of a range of yeast and bacteria morphologies as shown in Fig 1 above.

Preliminary interpretations are the blend contains yeast (A) and (B), possible lacticobacilli (C) and streptococci bacteria. Other rod and cocci bacteria are also evident

Figure 2 (left), MegaBlend yeast with coagulated internal contents. X600 Figure 3 (rigth), MegaBlend yeast with opaque contents and budding. X400

along with amorphous deposits (E) which may represent microbes within biofilm materials.

Viability analysis was not conducted but the condition

fermented by yeast and bacteria.

The protocol here saw DNA from samples of the

of many yeasts indicated coagulated contents suggesting

MegaBlend extracted using proprietary systems to obtain

poor viability Fig 2. However, some yeasts had more

purified extracts for molecular biology analysis. Three

opaque internal contents with indications of budding

different extract systems were conducted on the initial

indicating growth and potential fermentative activity (Fig

November MegaBlend for comparison analysis and one

3)

extract conducted on the MegaBlend in December.

A wide range of microorganisms was evident in the

DNA samples were assessed for the STA1 gene coding

MegaBlend mixture with a roughly equal proportion of

for glucoamylase using real time PCR and subsequent

yeast and bacteria. More detailed analysis will, hopefully,

observation of the amplified DNA on agarose gels.

provide specific identifications, Thomas noted in

Control samples of a standard Saccharomyces culture

December.

yeast, three cultures with glucoamylase activity and a

In the second interim report, the company focuses on the characterisation of the MegaBlend microbial mixture. The aims were to assess the characteristics of

kombucha extract were included for comparison along with a negative control to ensure validity of the analysis.

Observations indicated the clear presence of the

the MegaBlend generated specifically to assess samples

glucoamylase gene in the Megablend extracts as shown

for the presence of glucoamylase enzyme. This enzyme

in Fig 1 below where a rise in the fluorescence indicates

is specifically present and active in Saccharomyces

amplification of the specific gene.

cerevisiae var diastaticus strains of yeast and has the potential to digest residual dextrins which can be further

56

April 2018

Agarose gel separation of the PCR products confirmed the consistency of the analysis with clear bands of DNA

Brewers Journal

B rettanomyces

S c i e n c e

product being resolved from all the MegaBlend extracts (Fig 5). The kombucha extract and the negative control produced no product (the small amplification of the negative control seen in the fluorescence profile being a result of non-specific primer dimer interactions). The amplification products from the culture yeast most likely indicates an interaction with a different gene sequence but requires further assessment.

Caption for Figure 5: Lanes 1, 7, 8 and 14 Hyperladder II for size comparison (50, 100, 200, 300 KD etc): Lane 2 initial November MegaBlend extract: Lane 3 culture yeast extract: Lanes 4, 5 and 6 glucoamylase positive yeast extracts: Lane 9 kombucha extract: Lanes 10, 11 and 12 Megablend December extract; Lane 13 negative control.

Light bands indicate DNA products.

The presence of the STA1 glucoamylase gene is evident from this analysis indicating that some of the microbes in the MegaBlend will be able to ferment dextrins in worts. This has implications for bottle conditioning as there is the potential for over carbonation as secondary fermentation will allow these sugars to be utilized. Over carbonation can be a hazard as bottles may gush on opening and, if excess fermentation occurs, may

Figure 4 (above), Real time PCR profile of extracts using primers for the STA1 glucoamylase gene Figure 5 (below), Lanes 1, 7, 8 and 14 Hyperladder II for size comparison (50, 100, 200, 300 KD etc): Lane 2 initial November MegaBlend extract: Lane 3 culture yeast extract: Lanes 4, 5 and 6 glucoamylase positive yeast extracts: Lane 9 kombucha extract: Lanes 10, 11 and 12 Megablend December extract; Lane 13 negative control.

Light bands indicate DNA products

brewersjournal.info

burst.

Users of the MegaBlend should be aware of this potential and either ensure that specific gravities are low on bottling (eg, below 1.004) and/or that bottles are regularly checked for carbonation and kept cool before opening. It also indicates that beers produced with the MegaBlend will have limited body and sweetness.

Lactose could be added if additional sweetness was required. u

April 2018

57

sense S

s c i e n c e

Up your nose Which part of a brewer’s body is constantly working? Even the brain has a tea break and the eyes automatically close when sleep arrives. The tongue only works when beer is sipped and the ears only respond when pumps whirr or the phone rings. Muscles relax too, both in response to the end of work pint and the end of day pillow, explains Dr Keith Thomas from Brewlab.

and benefits from a separate nasal cavity allowing perception of aroma at a distance. In assessment of a beer this is valuable and not only in keeping your food out of your nostrils. A particular advantage is the sensitivity of the system being enhanced by the large volume of air drawn into the lungs – 23,000 breaths per day containing over 400 cubic meters. Just try swallowing that volume to taste your beer.

What though is in a brewer’s nose? Shining a torch won’t show a great deal but more delicate investigations show that the nasal cavity contains a number of bony ridges to warm incoming air. In the upper part of the cavity are two areas of nerve receptors. One branch in the

by Dr Keith Thomas

bridge of the nose, another at the very top of the cavity.

Those in the bridge of the nose are connected to the

M

trigeminal nerve and respond to a limited number of

when conditions require attention. Few brewers though

other materials active on the trigmenal nerves. While such

have not experienced a moment of anxiety when an

stimulations may have their direct impression a secondary

undesirable aroma is suddenly perceived on a tour of the

result is to reduce the sensitivity of the major aroma

brewery or wafting into the brewery office. Stale malt by

receptors. In effect the body concentrates on a potential

the mill, a phenolic tang in the fermentation room or a

hazard – high CO2, intense cold or chemical dangers.

burning aluminium from an overheated pump.

Meanwhile it forgoes the delights of hop character of

eanwhile the nose continually

chemicals, generally potentially hazardous ones such as

responds to the environment providing

carbon dioxide and to the impact of low temperature. The

information on the brewing process

fizz from a mouthful of lemonade is enough to stimulate

or, hopefully, awakening the sleeping

these and the sharp snap of burping a fizzy drink is a

body if the house fills with smoke.

good example of the effect.

Much of this is unconscious, only alerting the brewer

In performing this function the nose is acting as the most basic animal sense, responding directly to

Capicinoid oils from chillies and mustard oils are two

complex esters.

The fact that many beers are designed to maximise

chemicals constantly flowing into the body. Primitive

the impact of two of these features, CO2 and low

animals such as amphibians and reptiles don’t have noses

temperature, has inevitable implications on overall flavour

separate from their mouths just an oral cavity where taste

character.

and aroma receptors pass information directly to the Fortunately a brewer’s physiology is more advanced

58

Under less challenging conditions the nose uses the main aroma receptors to detect specific chemicals. Four

brain.

April 2018

million of these receptors reside in the nasal cavity. Many

Brewers Journal

senses

s c i e n c e

less than the 200 million in a bloodhound but enough to fire up when exposed to a hoppy pint of beer. Similarly, compared to the tongue the range of responses covers a forest of flavour rather than a handful of tastes. Many thousands of aroma chemicals may produce a response here giving a widely expanded impression of the world.

The process of response may be similar to the tongue with aroma molecules fitting into receptors of specific shapes on the receptor cells. Once an aroma flavour fits into a receptor the cell generates an electrical impulse.

If enough cells do this they may stimulate a nerve cell which will conduct an impulse to the brain. Only eight molecules may be needed to stimulate a cell and although forty cells may be required for the brain to perceive the aroma the total number of molecules is relatively few.

This doesn’t mean that the nose responds to every aroma. Some are much more evident than others. For example we are most sensitive to the smell of burning hair, and rightly so. Our response to ethanol is very much less, requiring a concentration of around 4% before we stand much chance of recognition.

Diacetyl and 2,3 butane diol are two other examples

Above: A breakdown of the human tongue

with very different thresholds. The ease with which one is converted into the other and alters beer flavour during maturation indicates how rapidly a beer may change its character.

Although the nose responds most directly to aromas from a distant source it is equally active during the

of this and can lead to allergic reactions in sensitive individuals if enough gas burps out into the lungs.

Changes in aroma may also occur when some

swallowing of beer. When beer reaches the back of the

compounds are diluted. Mercaptan aromas can be

mouth it is agitated and warmed. Less volatile aromas

examples of a beer flavour showing this feature. Animal

are released and spray up into the back of the nose.

scent glands are others. Many of the latter are repulsive

Perception of certain aromas is best made at this point so

when met raw but revered when diluted in perfume.

concentrate hard as you swallow. The nose responds to

Fortunately these aromas can now be manufactured

such aromas at the same time as the tongue is savouring

synthetically but it does beg the speculation of how

tastes. Interaction of responses between nose and mouth

the attraction of diluted animal excrescence was ever

doubtless occurs in the brain resulting in a synergy of

discovered.

flavour.

This response does not end once the beer is

Keeping a healthy nose is essential to your sensory evaluation programme. This is more than just the use of

swallowed, as flavours will persist in the body for some

a tissue when you sneeze but a conscious awareness

time circulating in the blood stream. Experiments have

of minimising nasal stress. Physiologists are aware that

even measured the release of odour molecules back into

the human nose is poorly designed for air flow. A tight

the nasal cavity from the blood so causing an after drink

hairpin bend at the top of the cavity slows air movements

appreciation. The possibility of this aiding digestion or

and limits the nose’s use during the heavy breathing of

encouraging further intake is an unexplored area.

exercise. As soon as you start running or chasing a squash

A similar effect is possible from tasteless foods and materials. Drug tablets for example, are typically swallowed whole and not tasted. Contamination or

ball the mouth falls open allowing air a direct run into the lungs.

Many other animals have a more direct nasal route.

poor choice of coating materials may lead to flavours

Animals such as snakes, pigs and squirrels, which operate

appearing in the blood and causing nausea when

close to the ground, have the greatest nasal capacity per

released into the nose. The same may be possible of

body size. Our own convolutions seem to have resulted

foods which are swallowed rapidly or which react with

from the expansion of our brain and, possibly, as a means

stomach acids to release flavour active compounds.

of filtering particles from incoming air. The presence of

The production of sulphur dioxide is one example

brewersjournal.info

nasal hairs helps this and soon accumulate a nose full of

April 2018

59

s c i e n c e

senses

dirt and dust. Naturally this can block the perception of

characteristics it is important to refer to underlying

aromas so limiting your response.

chemicals such as trans 2 nonenal rather than the more

For a tasting panel this means that your members may differ according to their environment at home, their

evocative but vague terms “cardboard” or “wet clothes”.

The list of reference terms and compounds detailed

activities at work and any recent exposures to dust and

by the Joint Working Groups of the EBC, ASBC and

particles. Industrial regulations now control and limit

MBAA2 provides the basis for international standardisation

working environments but enthusiastic home renovations

and should be used in training to ensure that comparable

can create equally poor effects. One brewery avoids

impressions are obtained by different panels. Repetitive

critical tasting sessions on a Monday to minimise the

exposure is necessary to develop an appropriate and

effects of weekend activities.

accurate flavour memory – in much the same way as

Occasional exposures to irritants will produce temporary effects. Continual exposure may permanently

regular conversation will improve your French.

Taste memory has a further, less quantifiable,

disable. Staff at a 1960’s tyre factory in the UK were

dimension in the evocation of personal emotions and

continually exposed to solvents for remoulding rubber.

memories. Literature contains numerous instances of

Not did they become addicted to the solvent but lost all

such evocations as a means to recall events. Personal

trace of aroma recognition. Living in urban environments

experiences can often be recalled by a particular smell.

may perform less extreme effects, but could make

Can beer stimulate emotions by recall? Many synthetic

standardisation of taste panels difficult. Regular, chronic

flavours are used to promote sales of specific products.

exposure to solvents, perhaps as encountered in

In fact only 20% of the perfume industry’s output is sold

laboratories may achieve a similar effect.

as personal perfume. 80% is used in providing aromas to

Mucus is the key to nasal regeneration as it flows

variously unpleasant or neutrally smelling materials, from

across the nasal receptors wiping the area for fresh

toilet paper to bin sacks. Magazines may be impregnated

stimulation. As with taste the nose is affected by illness. A

with aromas for particular advertisements while

heavy bout of cold severely reduces aroma perception,

potentially offensive plastic or rubber materials may be

possibly because of the increase in mucus flow but also

infused with more attractive aromas than those naturally

be distracting the brain’s response to the stimulation.

arising from their chemical origin.

More serious diseases can be accompanied by an

Perfumes are also used in targeted sales promotions

odour on the breath, most probably due to metabolic

as aerosols in shopping areas and may be included in

changes in the body. Ketones indicate diabetes. Typhus

CD’s for release on playing. How the underlying aroma of

is associated with the smell of mice, plague with mellow

stale bar carpets affects our drinking associations may be

apples, yellow fever with butchering and nephritis with

a project worth exploring.

ammonia. The effect of these on flavour perception is

Old beer will certainly find difficulties in matching

unknown but the appearance of any in your tasting panel

public aroma expectations. However, freshly pulled beer

would be cause for concern.

does carry a wealth of fruit and hop aromas which tend

That said sensitivity isn’t always the most critical

to have positive associations. Some of this will results

requirement of a tasting panel. In some cases it is the

from appropriate marketing to the beer drinking public

ability to judge the overall character of a beer against

but the association of beer with pleasurable experiences

standards and criteria. Is today’s brew up to scratch?

is continually encouraged and reinforced. In some cases

Which sample is the odd one out? How does a new

this may be neutralised by other associations and the

brew compare to last weeks or with the same beer from

amnesiac effect of drink itself. Perhaps an expansion

a different brewery? Or even more difficult - which is the

of beer flavours into other products would expand this

best beer of the competition?

association and produce a more persistent effect. Beer

Flavour perception is most competently applied in middle age when experience provides the context and

flavoured chocolates, tyres and tissues may be just the stimulus the industry needs. u

comparabilities to judge a complex sample. In contrast

References

sensitivity is most acute in pre pubescent girls – not a group we would use to fill a beer tasting panel.

Maturity and experience are valuable attributes, both of which involve memory of beers, flavours and

Simpson, W. A Rough Guide to Beer Flavour Assessment.

associated features. Developing a flavour memory

Brewers' Guardian. September 1997.

enhances your ability to recognise and identify flavours.

However, for technical work it is important to ensure that

Meilgaard, M.C. Dalgliesh, C. E and Clapperton, J. F. Beer

flavour memory is associated with agreed reference

Flavour Terminology. Journal of the Institute of Brewing. Vol

standards1. For example in the recognition of stale

85. 38-42.

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April 2018

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date s

&

e v e nt s

events

The Brewers Journal , presented by The Brewers Journal, takes place in Newcastle at Wylam's Brewery this June

07/04/18 - 08/04/18

cask beer 2018 Affinity Brew Co, London www.billetto.co.uk 12/04/18 - 14/08/18

hull real ale & cider festival Hull Minster www.hull.camra.org.uk 13/04/18 - 14/04/18

CRAFT THEORY South Street Arts Centre, Reading www.crafttheoryfestival.co.uk/

62

April 2018

03/05/18 - 05/05/18

The Kingdom of fife Rothes Hall, Glenrothes www.kingdomoffife.camra.org.uk 24/05/18 - 03/06/18

City of ale Various venues, Norwich www.cityofale.org.uk 13/06/18

Brewers lectures Wylam Brewery, Newcastle lectures.brewersjournal.info

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