The Brewers Journal February 2019, iss 1 vol 5

The magazine for the professional brewing industry

Brewers J o u r n a l

February 2019 | Volume 5, issue 1 ISSN 2059-6669

hackney BREWERY

WHY 2019 COULD BE THEIR BIGGEST YEAR YET

29 | FLOORING: BUILD YOUR BREWERY ON SOLID GROUND

37 | BY THE HORNS: EXPANSION AND GROWTH

55 | WHEAT BEER, PHENOLS AND ESTERS

le ad e r

full steam ahead

W

ell, we made it.

I’m not sure about you, but January seemed to be one long month.

Sure, I’ll end up contradicting myself later in 2019 asking “Where has the year gone?” but either way, it’s a relief to see the daylight hours slowly starting to increase.

While many individuals like to partake in Dry January, I’d like to say a big well done to Mike, Daisy and the team behind Tryanuary, the initiative designed to encourage support for the beer industry throughout the first month of the year.

January is clearly a challenging month for business, and detractors often argue that it’s not their responsibility or obligation to support an industry they give ample trade to over the remaining 11 months of the year. But personally, I think campaigns such as Tryanuary are a fantastic idea, and I know a lot of hard work goes into promoting those beers, breweries, bars and bottle shops.

So with the year well underway, attention is firmly turning to beer release schedules, festivals, takeovers and collaborations. Here at the magazine, we kickstarted 2019 by relaunching our website (www. brewersjournal.info) and announcing the lineup of fantastic speakers taking part in the Brewers Lectures in Manchester on the 6th February and Birmingham on the 14th March.

We’re also excited to be hosting the Brewers Lectures in Nottingham and Glasgow for the first time as well as returning to The Institution of Civil Engineers in London for the Brewers Congress on the 28th November.

I’m thrilled that my colleague, and the host of the 2018 Brewers Congress, Velo Mitrovich is the voice of the new Brewers Lectures Podcast. Launched in January, the series is published fortnightly and delves deep into a wealth of industry issues.

brewersjournal.info

editor's choice John Keeling recalls his early experiences at Fuller's, and how these shaped him as a brewer - page 14

Upcoming episodes place the spotlight on topics as diverse as growth, expansion, mental health and barrel-ageing. We’ll also be taking the opportunity to tell the story of the some of the sector’s leading lights.

Point your browser here to subscribe! brewerspodcast. reby.media If that isn’t enough to keep you busy, we have the latest column from brewing legend John Keeling, an in-depth look at Wheat Beer, Esters & Phenols thanks to Lallemand UK, and much more.

We also tell the story of two of London’s modern breweries, Hackney Brewery and By The Horns. There were close to 100 fewer breweries in operation in the capital when those outfits started business and while they brew in different parts of London, they’re bonded by their ability to put out excellent beers in a quiet, diligent manner.

Until next time, enjoy the issue and I hope to see you at some of our upcoming events! u Tim Sheahan Editor

February 2018

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co ntac t s

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SUBscriptions The Brewers Journal is a published 10 times a year and mailed every February, March, April, May, June, July, September, October, November and December. Subscriptions can be purchased for 10 issues. Prices for single issue subscriptions or back issues can be obtained by emailing: subscribe@rebymedia.com

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February 2018

The content of The Brewers Journal is subject to copyright. However, if you would like to obtain copies of an article for marketing purposes high-quality reprints can be supplied to your specification. Please contact the advertising team for full details of this service. The Brewers Journal is printed at Stephens & George Print Group, Merthyr Tydfil, UK.

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or any information storage or retrieval system, without the express prior written consent of the publisher. The Brewers Journal ISSN 2059-6650 is published bimonthly by Reby Media, 42 Crouchfield, Hemel Hempstead, Hertfordshire, HP1 1PA. Subscription records are maintained at Reby Media, 42 Crouchfield, Hemel Hempstead, Hertfordshire, HP1 1PA. The Brewers Journal accepts no responsibility for the accuracy of statements or opinion given within the Journal that is not the expressly designated opinion of the Journal or its publishers. Those opinions expressed in areas other than editorial comment may not be taken as being the opinion of the Journal or its staff, and the aforementioned accept no responsibility or liability for actions that arise therefrom.

Brewers Journal

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co nte nt s

contents 29

37

14

55

46

Cover story 20 - Hackney Brewery could be considered something of a veteran of the modern London brewing scene, quietly and diligently putting out quality, consistent beers

Brewers Lectures

Sector | canning

12 - The full lowdown on Brewers Lectures Birmingham, taking place on 14 March, 2019

34 - A focus on the recent Enterprise Tondelli canning line install at Alloa's Williams Bros

Dear John

Meet The Brewer | by the horns

14 - John Keeling recalls his early experiences at Fuller's, and how these shaped him as a brewer, both in and outside of work

37 - How the Wandsworth outfit has gone on to establish itself as a leading London brewery

Sector | production COMMENTS 16 - Real Ale discuss the qualities demanded by retailers such as M&S 18 - Dr Keith Thomas, founder of Brewlab, looks at the benefits of forcing your beer

Sector | flooring 29 - Why quality flooring,drainage and coatings provide the foundations on which the rest of your brewery is built

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February 2018

43 - How software can elevate your brewery

crossing contients | muskoka 46 - Ontario, Canada's Muskoka don't like to rush things, and their beer is all the better for it

science | yeast 55 - Wheat Beer, Esters and Phenols: How to influence them to your advantage 61 - How foam can make a truly great beer

Brewers Journal

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n e ws

Brewers Journal collaborates on Brewers Congress beer T

he Brewers Journal has collaborated on a one-off

in London last month, was brewed the day before

beer to celebrate the recent Brewers Congress event,

November’s Brewers Congress event, which brought

held in London at the end of last year.

Hosted and brewed at Fuller’s, the Congress Porter

together nearly 300 professionals from across the brewing industry.

was the culmination of a project that also featured Leeds-

Tim Sheahan, editor of The Brewers Journal, who

based Northern Monk, Jenn Merrick’s new brewery Earth

helped organise the collaboration, said it was a genuine

Station, Williamsburg, Brooklyn-based KCBC and also

privilege to work alongside such experienced brewers

The Brewers Journal.

and on the new pilot kit at Fuller’s.

Coming in at 6.4%, the rich, full-bodied Porter, was

He explained: “I’ve grown up drinking Fuller’s beers so

brewed with generous amounts of coffee from North

to be able to take part in a brew day at the brewery was a

Star Coffee Roasters in Leeds and a mix of dark sugars

real thrill. Hayley and George are incredibly talented and

produced by Tate & Lyle, London.

to work with them was very special.

The brew was overseen by Fuller’s Hayley Marlor and

“You then add Jenn, Colin, Pete and Brian to the mix

featured the expertise of Georgina Young, head brewer

and you have a collection of some of the finest brewers

at Fuller’s, Brian Dickson and Colin Stronge, head brewer

around. The beer has a great depth, it is full-bodied and

and production manager of Northern Monk respectively,

the coffee notes are well pronounced.

Jenn Merrick, founder of Earth Station and Pete Lengyel, co-founder of KCBC. The beer, which was launched at Micro Beers

brewersjournal.info

"Even though it comes in at 6.4%, it’s incredibly easy to drink, which is testament to the skills of the brewing team.”

February 2018

9

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Northern Monk revamps branding Russell Bisset, founder of Northern Monk said he wanted the brand revamp to convey his passion for “maximalist” experiences.

“Whether it’s in music, art, or beer, I’ve always been a fan of multi-layered experiences and the depth that comes with that,” he explained. “We want to build on the success of our Patrons Project series and offer something that builds upon the values Northern Monk stand for."

He added: “We also want to challenge the perceived notion of what northern is. The cans don’t solely need to

N

orthern Monk has said it wants to challenge the

be images of rusty steel and the like. It’s about respecting

“perceived notion of what northern is” following

heritage and pushing things forward.”

a total brand refresh that involves rebranded core packaging, an updated logo and a new website.

The brewery, which has updated the packaging of its core beers, has also added two new beers to that family in the form of Origin, a 5.7% gluten-free IPA and Striding

The rebrand comes on the back of a strong 2018 which featured a successful crowdfunding campaign, expansion, new beers and the opening of its second refectory site, in Manchester.

“It was an incredible year, and not without its

Edge a light IPA that was well-received when initially

challenges,” he said. “We took the big step from a small

launched as part of Northern Monk’s Patrons Project

group of friends to a large group of friends, and ones

series.

that needed to increase the organisational aspects of the

Its rebrand has been completed by Leeds-based strategic brand design agency, Robot Food. The

business, and all that comes with it.”

With the opening of its Manchester refectory under its

refreshed logo has been designed to feature a much

belt, attention is also turning to other sites along with new

cleaner, simpler compass design, with the original monk

projects.

icon remaining the same.

On the can designs, Robot Food used illustration and

Bisset said: “We are thrilled to have opened Manchester and its safe to say we are actively looking at

colour to create a world around the beers, capturing the

Liverpool. We’re happy for Bundobust to be the canary

emotion behind each.

when opening in new cities!

Colour is used to evoke the nature of each beer style

“In all seriousness, we both see the value in opening

and flavour, from calming session-able blues to bold, fiery

in the same cities. Going forward, I’m eager to explore

IPAs. Each beer has been given its own personality and

the opportunities in Glasgow and Newcastle, as well as

story that was then used to influence the illustration.

London.”

Brewers encouraged to apply for grant funding

of the BBPA’s original headquarters in Portman Square,

The fund was created through proceeds from the sale central London. The Worshipful Company of Brewers

P

eople working across the brewing industry are being

acts as Trustee and administers the fund, with the BBPA

encouraged to apply for grant funding.

promoting the fund and providing the secretariat.

Through the Brewers’ Research & Education Fund

Brigid Simmonds, chief executive of the BBPA

(BREF), applicants have little three months to submit

explained: “The Brewers’ Research & Education Fund has

their bids, with a deadline for funding applications of 31st

supported many important projects over the years and

March 2019.

is an important legacy from the Brewers’ Society and the

The BREF supports vital research into projects of potential benefit to the brewing industry, such as improving brewery environmental footprint, dispense hygiene surveys and developing new hop varieties, as well as a range of educational activities.

Full details of the applications process can be obtained via the British Beer & Pub Association website.

10

February 2018

Institute of Brewing.

"I’m delighted the fund is open for another year and look forward to receiving applications.”

Michael O’Dwyer, the Clerk to the Brewers’ Company, added: “The Brewers’ Research & Education Fund is a great example of the Brewers’ Company’s focus on investing in the future of the brewing industry."

Brewers Journal

STEINECKER

Brewing technology #GermanBlingBling #Steinecker

We do more.

b r e w e r s

le c tu r e s

b i rm i ngham

Brewers Lectures | birmingham The Brewers Lectures is coming to Birmingham for the first time. Hitting the Midlands on the evening of 14th March, featuring a fantastic lineup of speakers, the Brewers Lectures is an event not to be missed.

W

e are spoilt for choice when it comes to the fantastic beer being made across the UK and Ireland.

KEY INFORMATION

Brewing hotspots such as Leeds, Manchester, London and Bristol

take many of the the plaudits but the Midlands is home to some truly innovative outfits producing superb beer.

The Brewers Lectures takes place in Birmingham on

The Old Library Gibb Street, Birmingham B9 4AT

the 14th March and with it, engaging and entertaining talks from leading industry figures.

Traditionally, the Brewers Lectures have taken place

14 March 2019 15.30pm to 9pm

from lunchtime, concluding late afternoon.

This time out though, we are starting a little later at 15:30pm. So if you’re on an early shift, come on down!

The event will finish early evening with post-event drinks served at the venue, offering the perfect opportunity to catch up with friends old and new.

So if you’re a Wolves fan (boo), West Brom fan (boo),

As we all come to these events from differing backgrounds and differing means, we have made all tickets available for free, we just ask you to make a small donation if you are able so that we can continue to run these events.

Birmingham fan (boo). Coventry fan (boo) or Aston Villa fan (yay!), then come along.

12

February 2018

Go to lectures.brewersjournal.info

Brewers Journal

b i rm i ngham

speakers Russell Bisset | Northern Monk Russell Bisset is the founder of Leeds-based Northern Monk. In five short years, the business has grown into one of the top 100 breweries in the world according to Ratebeer, and exports to 23 countries worldwide. Northern Monk has recently just revamped its branding, broadened its core range of beers and in 2018, opened its second refectory bar, this time in Manchester.

Jen Ferguson | Hop Burns & Black Jen Ferguson is the co-founder of London’s Hop Burns & Black. Priding itself of being home to “the world's greatest obsessions in one place”, the business specialises in craft beer, hot sauce and records. Operating two shops/ tasting rooms in Peckham and Deptford, the business also sells craft cider, mead, organic and natural wine and small batch spirits. Since opening, it has been awarded Time Out Love London Winner: Peckham's Most Loved Shop 2015/2016 and Celebrate British Beer Awards: London Retailer of the Year 2016 + 17 among others.

brewersjournal.info

b r e w e r s

le c tu r e s

Sam Millard | Beavertown Brewery Sam Millard is the brand and communications manager at Beavertown Brewery. Celebrating his fourth year with the North London business this April, Sam has helped develop Beavertown’s brand identities, as well as establish the brewery’s hugely successful Extravaganza event. Attracting the best part of 20,000 drinkers over the 2017 and 2018 events?

Not bad, not bad at all…

Andy Parker | Elusive Brewing Andy Parker is an award-winning home brewer, author and the owner of Berkshire-based Elusive Brewing. The brewery has made waves across the UK, producing beers that have one eye on tradition and the other on taking things to the next level. He's a bloomin' nice chap, too.

proudly sponsored by

February 2018

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Co m m e nt

dear

john

Give and Take Many brewers have learned from John Keeling, the former head brewer at Fuller’s. Equally, he spent much of his brewing career seeking wisdom from others, too. Here, he touches upon some of the changes to take place during his time at the West London brewery and explains that the power of the team is always greater than the individual. by john keeling

I

and Reg Drury, the newly appointed brewing director. I later found out that Graham had been a brewer for the Army during the war and had served on a ship that was a floating brewery.

Reg, of course, was a great influence on me. He was the person who taught me how to be a head brewer in their brewery, how to plan for the future, how to deal with other departments and how to look after your team.

During my time with the brewery. Fuller’s has always been great investors in the future and new technology.

I worked for Reg on many great projects including Fuller’s first new brewhouse for 125 years. Other projects included a new cask line, kegging line, warehouse, bottling line and numerous tank farms. In fact, we rebuilt

joined Fuller’s in January 1981. At that time, Fuller’s

the brewery under Reg and I saw first hand the pressure

produced about 70,000 barrels per year and it

put on him to succeed.

owned 90 pubs. Around 80% of the brewery’s beer went to their pubs while the rest went to free trade.

Bottling mainly produced bottled Guinness, the

The future of Fuller’s was in his hands.

When Reg decided to retire, he told me that one of the reasons was that the cask line was wearing out and he

kegger mainly handled lager bought in under contract

didn’t want to be the man to replace it. He was tired of the

and the cask line, by far the biggest volume, produced

stress and strain.

London Pride, ESB and Chiswick.

Instead, I would have to do it

Indeed, such was the demand for cask beer that

I remember when we first produced London Porter.

each one of those was produced in barrels (36-gallon

After racking it into cask, it turned out to be very flat and

containers) and firkins were a relatively small volume.

Reg was worried. We stood next to the casks sampling

As an aside, the bottled Guinness from Fuller’s had

them and realising they were all flat. Reg asked what

a very good reputation and at the time, Fuller’s used

should we do?

flash pasteurisation for their beers rather than tunnel pasteurisation. This meant we were very good at sterile filling, something that helped enormously when we went on to produce bottle conditioned Fuller's beers.

Now, Fuller's produces around 205,000 barrels of beer

I answered by saying that the beer had enough fermentable sugar and the yeast was viable.

All it needed was time.

Reg seized on this and told me I was right and that we would give it four days on the floor to make the condition.

per year and own nearly 400 pubs. Nearly 80% of the

Of course, Reg would have realised this but with all the

beer is sold outside of Fuller’s pubs and barrels have long

other pressures on him he hadn’t got the time to think.

since disappeared, while firkins are nearly 100 % of the

I was glad that on this occasion I could do the thinking

racking output. There are very few kilderkins produced.

for him. This made me realise that a problem shared is a

Bottled Guinness has also sadly disappeared, with the

truly a problem halved. The power of the team is always

bottling line running flat out producing Fuller's beers

greater than the individual.

for the export market and supermarkets. Kegging still

Fuller’s were one of the first breweries to use conical

produces lots of keg contracted lager but Fuller’s keg

fermenters for ale and started to use centrifuges in

beers have grown considerably.

1976! At the time they dabbled with becoming an all

The market has changed and Fuller’s have changed with the market.

When I was interviewed for the job of junior brewer,

keg brewery for draught beer. They quickly decided against this when CAMRA arrived on the scene, but quickly adapted new technology for the production of

which carried a starting salary of £5,000, the process was

cask beer, which gave the beer greater consistency and

carried out by Graham Ure the retiring brewing director

quality. Fuller's never won a prize using the old open

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February 2018

Brewers Journal

dear

squares, all their prizes were won with conical brewed and centrifuged beers.

Funny enough it wasn’t Reg’s idea to get centrifuges but Philip Eliot’s. Philip was what everybody called a character. He was, in actual fact, the uncle of Anthony Fuller and the assistant head brewer. He ran brewing, fermentation and maturation. My first job was to work for him. I greatly enjoyed it even though Philip had a bit of a temper, which would blow up quickly but just as quickly disappear. He was a very fair man who after bawling you out would then insist on buying you a pint, although it would be Chiswick Bitter (he never drank or bought

anything else).

When he retired we calculated that he accounted for 0.5% of the total Chiswick sales.

One of the things he did for me was tell me, months before informing the company, that he was to retire. He then told me I had six months to learn his job so that I would be the logical choice to take over from him. He got me my first promotion, although I dare say Reg had me marked out for this also.

Another person who had a great influence on me was Ken Don, the head brewer of Wandsworth-based Young’s.

He really showed me how to be a head brewer outside of your brewery. Ken has always helped young brewers and put plenty back in to the industry he loves.

He was chairman of the Heriot-Watt former brewer’s

brewersjournal.info

john

co m m e nt

“

A problem shared is a truly a problem halved. The power of the team is always greater than the individual.

association, sat on the advisory board and was chairman of the London and South Section of the brewer’s guild.

I too have held all those positions because I also want to put something back in the industry. Finally, Ken loved meeting drinkers and did many meet the brewer events, something I enjoy doing to. This really does keep you in touch with the drinker and enables you to interpret marketing data better

I have tried to take all those influences and use them

as an inspiration for my own work in brewing. Hopefully, in another article, I will write about my years as a brewing director and look at how Fuller’s changed in that period and how I put into practice everything I had been taught. u

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T est i ng

Forcing your beer Few quality tests are as simple to perform and informative to the brewer as that provided by time. Time and a little manipulation of temperature, explains Dr Keith Thomas, founder of Brewlab, a leading provider of brewing courses, training & analysis.

by Dr Keith Thomas

F

ew quality tests are as simple to perform and informative to the brewer as that provided by time. Time and a little manipulation of temperature.

Forcing tests tell you the worst, the

best and the likely condition of your beer at the end of production and in trade. Either cask or bottle. Moreover, they can be an essential part of your due diligence and so provide some legal standing in case of dispute. All they require is a controlled environment, some time and observation.

Firstly, take a simple example where you need to know whether your collected wort before pitch is contaminated with microorganisms. For this you simply collect a sample

indication of consistency.

Forcing tests typically involve accelerating the ageing

in a sterile container and incubate it at a temperature

of your sample and observing changes and problems

between 25 and 30oC. Observation of changes over the

before your customer does. In some cases, such as with

next few days will indicate the presence of spoilage. A

wort samples, the results will be available before your

clear beer without fermentation and with no surface skin

beer leaves the brewery. In others it may be retrospective

or off-flavours suggests a clean collection. The presence

information for suggesting corrective action but also

of these suggests a problem.

predictive against customer complaint. Either way it is

In a more extended example you may wish to provide a shelf life on your bottled beer. For this take a dozen

valuable knowledge.

As suggested in the examples above forcing tests can

samples from the production run and incubate at 28oC

be divided into those relevant to the brewing process

for up to twelve weeks. Observe one bottle each week for

and those applicable to finished product. Wort samples

clarity and contamination. The number of weeks the beer

suitable for forcing are typically those taken as the wort

remains in good condition roughly indicates the number

is collected into the copper. This is a critical point for

of months of shelf life in standard retail conditions.

contamination by microorganisms where even small

Of course, it is impractical to wait 12 weeks before

numbers can rapidly multiply to cause problems, even in

you stamp the shelf life on a batch of bottles but given

the presence of yeast. Similar samples taken at racking

constant production conditions it is reasonable to

can indicate potential spoilage after fermentation.

extrapolate from one batch to another. If differences are evident then comparison of batches will give you an

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February 2018

Standard laboratory tests will be able to detect and identify contaminants and are important on a regular but

Brewers Journal

T est i ng

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intermittent basis. Forcing tests can be conducted on

degree of clarity. Whatever test you devise try to keep

every brew, however, to provide a broader indication of

a consistent approach and record your observations for

consistency. Moreover, failed samples can be forwarded

future comparisons.

to the laboratory for detailed investigations.

It is essential that samples for forcing are collected in

Forcing tests on bottled beer allow you to assess changes in the bottle by swirling the contents and also

sterile containers. For this it is best to obtain disposable 30

by pouring out a glass to see clarity, view head formation

or 60ml plastic bottles rather than chance an incomplete

and check flavour.

sterilisation of glass bottles or, more likely, the caps.

Observations on forcing samples can be simply visual

During incubation remember that contaminated samples

but should also include aroma and taste tests. These

may ferment and produce pressure in the bottles so caps

allow you to compare samples to your expected flavours

should be kept loose. Again, plastic bottles are preferable

as well as using off flavours to identify the causes of faults.

in case an explosion does occur and it is worth using

It’ s a hard job but all part of a brewer’ s lot.

gloves and goggles when you open any bottle.

Whatever your arrangements keep your samples well

More extensive tests can include microscope observations and pH measurements or perhaps haze or

away from the brewhouse so that any contamination does

protein assessments on precipitations. In other cases, a

not transfer to your fermentations.

high temperature accelerated test at 65oC or of a cycle

Keeping your samples at constant temperature will

of high and low temperatures followed by tannin titrations

require an incubator of sorts. Second hand laboratory

can indicate protein stability. However, this level of

equipment may be available at reasonable cost but it

dedication is some distance away from the use of forcing

is possible to construct an insulated box with a small

as a quick and simple indication of performance.

thermostatic heater to provide a similar service. In

For the smaller brewery the ideal is a balance between

addition, a shelf with an illuminated back made of opaque

time, investment and information. A few pots on a shelf

glass will assist in visualizing clarity. Viewing a barcode

provides at least the basis of this and the benefit of

through the sample bottle can help to further define the

keeping one step ahead of your product. u

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D i str i but i on

One size doesn’t fit all There are a number of qualities a business such as Marks & Spencer require from a supplier. These include innovation, provenance and good timing. And you’ll need them all in equal measure, says Jonathan Charlton, business development manager at Real Ale. by jonathan charlton

R

eal Ale is unusual in that we wear two hats, specialist drinks retailer and key supplier to M&S. We have been promoting smaller breweries and wineries through our own stores since 2005. We’ve also worked with

M&S for over ten years and supply them with over 200 different branded and own label products. We’ve been instrumental in the introduction of its craft can ranges

future trends, not just in the UK but also in Europe and

and multipacks and brewers often ask us ‘How do we get

the US. In the four years that I have worked at Real Ale,

listed?’

things have changed quite significantly. M&S has moved

In short, M&S are looking for innovation, quality, point

from traditional 500ml bottles to 330ml bottles and most

of difference and consistency. The product also needs to

recently to cans and multi-packs. There is also now more

fit. I would strongly suggest that any brewery that wants

ciders and low alcohol options included in the ranges and

to be listed should visit M&S stores and look at the kind of

a mixture of traditional and newer brands from which to

beer/cider/lager ranges that they stock. The styles, types

choose.

of hops and ingredients they favour. Think how your brand

One key difference in the US compared to the UK is

would fit within, complement or expand the range and

the availability of higher A.B.V. brands through national

whether it would appeal to their target demographic. M&S

retailers. Because of the duty on high A.B.V. brands in the

is different to other national retailers – one size definitely

UK you are less likely to find them in multiple retailers. You

does not fit all. Probably best to keep those with

can find high A.B.V. products in M&S, but it is not the norm,

controversial names or packaging in your own portfolio.

most sit within the 3 per cent to 5.5 per cent A.B.V. level.

Although M&S is primarily an own-label retailer, it

Our aim is to make the journey as painless as possible for

does also list brewery branded products. The popularity

the breweries we work with. Our technical team includes

of individual branded beers, gives the retailer excellent

a master brewer that helps with M&S own-label products.

insight into consumer preferences, which in turn can

We advise on which ingredients M&S are particularly

influence their own-label trends. M&S want products with

interested in and help with tasting notes. We also work

provenance, innovative ingredients, brands that you won’t

with breweries to ensure that all their documentation is

find in every other retailer.

compliant with the conditions set out by M&S own-label

Timing is also crucial, it may sound basic but it’s no good putting forward a brand that if successful, you can’t

products and satisfy the regular audits carried out by them.

We are really proud of the work that we do, not only

fulfil because you don’t have the production capabilities.

because it is recognised by M&S. We recently won their

Currently, M&S own-label products are listed nationally.

2018 Customer Focus Award for bringing more choice to

For brewery branded beers, the listings can range from

the M&S consumer for branded products and growing

a regional to national distribution. So it’s important to

their own-label range. But also because we have helped

balance your own customer demands with that of a listing

many smaller breweries gain national profile through

with M&S. We work collaboratively with the M&S buying,

supplying M&S, making a significant difference to the

technical and product development teams, to identify

success of their company and their brands.

18

February 2018

Brewers Journal

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m e e t

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hackney

B rewery

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Doing things their own way Established in 2011, Hackney Brewery could be considered something of a veteran of the modern London brewing scene. Starting out as a cask outfit, the company has quietly, and diligently, gone about putting out quality, consistent beers. And like any good business, they’ve changed with the times. With that, it looks like 2019 could the brewery’s biggest year yet.

located minutes off the borough’s frenetic Kingsland Road, is that the team forms one cohesive unit. Despite the absence (owing to paternity leave) of head brewer Darren Walker, Swain, Hills and Christiano are joined by brewer Steve Lawler.

This team is completed by Dan Sharp and Kris Kardos in sales, and the brewery’s drivers Reece and Ren. Everyone is playing their role, pulling their weight, and pushing in the same direction. Apart from the dogs, of course. When they’re allowed out, the yard is their stomping ground and who are you to tell them otherwise….

Hackney Brewery is looking to this year with

by tIM sHEAHAN

confidence, and a sense of satisfaction. A major refit completed in 2017 saw them move from a 5bbl

E

brewhouse up to a 15bbl system. Perhaps more

family. There’s Bruce (Health and Safety) who belongs to

The move from having to brew 10 times a week on a 5bbl

the company’s co-founder Jon Swain, while Peter Hills,

kit to five times on a 15bbl setup in the same period was

the brewery’s other co-founder, is proudly accompanied

welcome, too.

very day at Hackney Brewery is a bring your

importantly was the move from open top fermentors

dog to work day. And if that isn’t enough for

to cylindrical vessels. Eight FVs were installed initially

you to want to visit, or perhaps work there,

and another two followed in subsequent months. It

then I’m afraid I can’t help you. You are,

represented a changing of the tides with a move away

perhaps, beyond saving.

from open top vessels and with it, a transition from a

You see, dogs are a big part of the Hackney Brewery

by Gruff (HR) during working hours. You also have Roddy,

business that started out in the production of cask beer.

“We had to pull everything apart,” explains Swain. “The

an eager, bouncy Golden Retriever who’s the newest

original setup served us well, but when you are producing

member of the canine team and an excellent companion

hoppy pales and relying on open-top fermentors, then

to brewer Simone Christiano.

you’re losing all of that aroma right off the bat. The change

Like I said, dogs are an important, nay essential, part of life at Hackney Brewery. And it’s all the better for it.

The first thing that strikes you at Hackney Brewery,

brewersjournal.info

with our new brewhouse and the vessels with it has been all important.”

Swain and Hills designed the brewhouse, equipment

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that was then fabricated in the UK. Pulling apart the existing 5bbl setup to ascertain what worked, and

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months that followed.

“We started somewhat under the radar and you could

what new additions were needed from the proceeding

argue we’ve remained that way,” says Swain. “It is both a

investment, was never likely to phase the duo. Nor

good thing and a bad thing. We’ve always been a lean

was handling the water, electrics and plumbing. Hardly

team, funded by ourselves and without a great deal of

surprising considering they’ve had experience turning a

major investment in heavy equipment. But we’re happy

disused warehouse into a living space and refurbishing a

with the progress we’ve made.”

boat that Hills now calls home.

Swain first met Hills back in 2005 at The Eagle in Farringdon, a resilient and popular spot frequently referred to as the UK’s first Gastropub. What would be

Swain is also amused with talk of how tough the marketplace is in 2019, noting that it was far from a bed of roses in those formative years.

“People talk about how challenging it is now, but it was

Swain’s first shift on the bar was Hills’ last. He wasn’t going

hard then!” he laughs. “The thing is, people didn’t know

to far, though. Just to the kitchen, to be exact, where he’d

what craft beer was, so we’d have to call up mates, and

pursue a career as a chef.

lean on previous relationships. Without that early support,

“Like all good ideas, it happened over a few beers.

We realised we were both interested in beer and the

we wouldn’t have been able to get going.”

And get going, they did. A focus on cask in the early

production of it,” explains Swain. “My dad used to make

years saw a transition to keg in 2014. The sweeping

fruit wines while Peter’s grandad produced those kit

popularity of keg beer, like many breweries, took Hackney

beers you’d buy from the high street. So we delved

with it. Customers were demanding such beer and

straight into making homebrew and in those early days,

the brewery dutifully obliged. Though production on

YouTube was very much our friend.”

a kit designed for cask made such output taxing, and

The duo continued in earnest before Hills departed

exhausting. So when it came to refitting the brewery back

to France to pursue his culinary career. Swain continued

in 2017, the team needed to look inwards and decide

brewing and a role change led him to the historic Charles

what form they wanted the next chapter of Hackney

Lamb pub located in the backstreets of Angel in North

Brewery’s story to take.

Since their introduction, beers such as the Kölsch

London.

Swain and Hills remained in contact and as the latter’s

and Kapow! have proved incredibly popular, while the

sojourn overseas came to an end, Hills took his culinary

brewery’s Golden Ale, Red Ale and Best Bitter have been

skills to the aforementioned Angel hostelry.

phased out.

“We still had that passion for beer so we visited

It’s a move that’s worked for the business, too. Its keg

breweries such as Brodie’s, Greene king, Sambrook’s

output has continued to grow in quality, consistency

and Redemption to get a better idea of the brewing

and visibility. The 4.7% Kölsch and 4.5% Kapow! Lead

landscape,” says Hills. “While we originally had the idea of

the charge, while the imminent launch of its new XPA

finding our own pub, something we could run alongside

builds upon the success of one of 2018’s standout beers,

some ex-colleagues, we simply couldn’t find a suitable

Unicorn Rodeo.

site and we eventually went our separate ways."

Swain adds: “The problem is, one of our old managers

Unicorn Rodeo, a DDH XPA was the perfect tonic to the sweltering heat at the London Brewers Alliance

had explained how he wanted to setup a brewery in

festival, hosted by Fuller’s at its West London brewery

Scotland and retire. We liked that idea. The same day

back in June 2018. The beer was part of a release

Peter saw a brewery van pass by and we took that as a

programme that marked a new dawn at Hackney. Settled

sign. We needed to pursue this. We wanted a brewery!”

on their new kit, and armed with additional capacity, the team were able to engage in collaborations and seasonal

A foot in the door

beers for the first time in their history.

Expansion and experimentation

A

nd by 2011, they had their site, which is located on Laburnum St in E2. Although the Hackney Brewery of 2019 produces hoppy IPAs, Kölsch,

fruited stouts and sours, the original iteration of the business was exclusively cask. Other breweries in the

T

he year kicked off with Sleeping Giants, a 5% New England style produced in collaboration with Brooklyn’s KCBC. Calypso, Huell Melon and

area would also have cask in their armoury, such as

Citra were added to the kettle followed by a dry hop of

Beavertown, which opened one week after Hackney flung

Calypso, Huell Melon, Citra and Mosac.

open its doors. It wasn’t just Beavertown and Hackney, either. At least 18 breweries started business in the

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The company then brought back its popular peach and basil sour in the form of Millions of Peaches, a 4.0%

Brewers Journal

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Team Hackney Brewery: Complete with canines Gruff, Bruce and Roddy. London, December, 2018.

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number that left bars and bottle shops as soon as it was

expertise of industry pros such as renowned coffee expert

delivered. Elsewhere in 2018, the brewery worked with

Freda Yuan.

Finback and Barrier Brewing, both from New York, on IPAs and fruited stouts.

“She guided me through the growing process of the trees and harvesting of the fruit, to the three types of

However, it was Underground, a Passion Fruit Sour

processing. Natural processed coffee, where they leave

produced in collaboration with Ozone Coffee that really

it out in the sun to ferment and dry, washed where they

challenged drinkers’ tastebuds and tasked the brewery

crush the fruit and wash off the fruit flesh before drying

with the idea of how far they could push coffee as an

and Honeyed which is not as vigorously washed,” he says.

ingredient in beer.

“Each containing different flavour profiles form the same

"In the hunt for flavours and quality in every aspect of the brewery, we wanted to dive into the deep dark water

seeds.”

With knowledge of what coffee is and having seen

of our morning ritual and see how far we can go. Coffee

what is on offer. the next phase was working out what

is the fuel of the brewery,” says Swain. “Both the beer and

they can do at the brewery. Swain, and head brewer

coffee industries have progressed further into the science

Darren Walker imbibed a variety of different coffee beers

and understanding of the raw ingredients. Methods of

at last year’s popular Uppers and Downers event in

production have advanced to present the subtle and

London.

nuanced flavours they hold. It seemed a bit crass to just throw some finely roasted coffee into a dark stout.”

With that mission statement in mind, the brewery immersed itself in various events, festivals and the

24

February 2018

Swain says: “From stouts to kvass, everything was on show here from the UK’s finest breweries. If anywhere would layout the possibilities of what could be done, it would be here! This was where we finally pieced together

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some ideas of how we could use coffee as a flavour

poured in with some hot water, then pushed it into the

alongside other ingredients.”

fermenter. It took three full loads to get all the fresh brew

So in stepped the gang at Ozone. The independent company’s roaster is in the basement and stepping in

into the beer, Swain recalls.

The result is a truly unique beer, and one well worth

through the door you are met with waves of fresh roasted

tracking down. Though pretty hard to come by, it will be

and ground coffee aromas. Hackney Brewery met with

worth the effort as it’s a beer that’s unlikely to see the light

the team and were presented with an array of what they

of day again anytime soon.

can do with their coffee creations. A cold brew coffee

“2018 was a year of change for us. For the first time, it

and tonic and coffee served with passion fruit and honey

was possible, and made sense to experiment more and

infused milk were the highlights.

work with other breweries, which was a real privilege,”

Then came the lightbulb moment, something that tied

Swain says. “We spent 2017 getting the grips with the

together Passion Fruit, Coffee and Sour. Using the sour

new setup but with that achieved, we were able to push

base from the aforementioned ‘Millions Of Peaches’, the

ourselves more.”

brewery added 100Kg of passion fruit and then we were faced with the coffee…

Ozone came to the brewery armed with a grinder and

And that will continue this year, with at least 12 specials planned for release over 2019. Those beers, coupled with an established core, will enable the brewery

100Kg of fresh roasted coffee and set to work prepping

to continue growing in its segment, because as Hills

the grounds. A newly acquired hopinator was repurposed

explains, “we’re not looking for world domination”.

as a large coffee percolator. The central post was lined with multiple layers of filter paper, the fresh grinds were

brewersjournal.info

“With the slice of the pie that we operate within, it’s a case of the quality of the outlets. And with that, there’s a

February 2018

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finite amount,” says Swain. “At our core, we are very local.

We don’t sell into big national operators, so it’s a case of focusing on existing and new relationships to grow.”

Growing as a team

B rewery

brewer is in that job for life.”

He adds: “Who knows where we’re all going? But if we can hold on to these people, and look after them, for as long as possible, then that’s good news for everyone.”

Such a diplomatic, though optimistic, approach is one the duo have taken in 2019.

"We’ve achieved our three year plan, so now we can

F

or Hills and Swain, growing external relationships is

stop and think,” Swain explains. “We need to work out

only part of the picture. They are particularly proud

what’s going on with the future. But for the moment, we

of the working culture that exists at Hackney, and

can be introspective, focus on dialling-in more recipes,

that’s one of self-improvement.

Every brewer is working towards their IBD diploma as part of their employment, a move that benefits both brewer and business.

“We always want to improve, we just want to get better,” says Hills. “If you’re part of the Hackney team, your

specifications, and to make more of the beer we want. We want improved quality and consistency in every beer we make.”

Hills adds: “We just want to get better and better, growing organically and on own terms.

“We are not trying to take over the world. We just want

opinion and your voice is as important as anyone else’s.

to make excellent beer, underpinned with the right ethics,

We attract great people but we also know that not every

the right attitude and the right culture.” u

26

February 2018

Brewers Journal

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27.09.2018 11:16:16

BLEFA STAND 25 WE LOOK FORWARD TO YOUR VISIT!

floor i ng

s e c to r

Build on steady foundations Regardless of the size or age of your brewery the same flooring principal applies to every business. And that’s the flooring you specify will provide the foundations on which the rest of your brewery is built. by tIM sHEAHAN

W

hatever their size or age, the same first flooring principal applies to every brewery.

Flooring really does provide the foundation

on which brewing success is built,” explains David Priest, sales manager at Kemtile. “It’s often so much easier – and more cost effective – to install floors and drains when the premises or brewery is empty.”

Priest says that when you’re considering a new brewery floor, make sure all aspects of the job are

W

considered and tackled at the outset and at the same

e all know, or maybe even own, a brewery where one aspect of the

time.

This includes civils work (usually drainage connections)

physical build isn’t up to the same

and surface drainage - is it big enough to cope with

levels the rest of the operation is.

spillages and clean down?

There’s a lot of reasons for this.

He adds: “For most of our brewery customers the

Breweries grow, often faster than those running it could

flooring and drainage specification is often dictated by

have even hoped for. So planned improvements fall by

where the drainage can be connected - in manholes -

the wayside because you're too busy actually producing,

and even by their lease agreement.

packaging and shipping the beer you set out to make.

Or maybe the funds outlaid during fit out, or expansion, couldn’t stretch all the way from A-Z of that wishlist.

One aspect of a brewery’s setup that is often the very bane of its existence is substandard flooring.

Sure, an aesthetically-pleasing, top-end install isn’t without its cost, but some breweries toil in an environment where the flooring and drainage has already set them back a step.

With that in mind, when you’re in a position to fit out

This usually stipulates that premises must be left exactly as they were upon arrival.

“Most breweries start off with a flat concrete floor, which in itself is far from ideal. Concrete is porous and has no chemical resistance to the sugars in the beer and the caustic solutions used for cleaning, these erode the cement and could undermine the drainage.

“Flat floors suffer the worst as liquids end up pooling on the floor. This this is bad for chemical attack, slips and hygiene. Concrete also wears quickly - especially if it’s

your brewery facility, whether it be on day one or as part

being attacked by chemicals. So, it’s essential to invest

of an expansion, there’s a number of points to keep in

in hygienic flooring and drainage, something that will

mind.

protect that very important concrete floor.”

Firm footing

Another area to look, perhaps unsurprisingly, is reducing potential slips and falls. According to HSE

brewersjournal.info

February 2018

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and its subsequent hygiene, health and safety issues including micro-bacterial growth. We recommend that

Resincoat offer polyurethane and epoxy coatings Polyurethane and Epoxy coatings, offered by Resincoat, regularly find applications in hospitals and highend eating establishments. Its MRSA (superbug) resistant range of coatings have found applications in NHS hospitals but are now finding their way into food preparation and brewing establishments where hygiene control is key and where chemical resistant flooring is essential.

The company says: “Our coatings have been developed so that they are very easy to apply and give our customers 100% quality satisfaction. To this end our products are not ‘cut’ with cheap diluents which reduce the film strength.

We deal with 100% resin systems which competitors claim to offer but in reality, do not. Our success is based upon the quality of our easily applied products and the know-how of our sales team who have decades of experience in production and manufacture of resins.”

hot liquids and chemicals are discharged directly into the drainage system rather than run over the floor finish.”

Desirable drainage

D

rainage and flooring go hand-in-hand, so it’s important to take a holistic approach to drainage specification in a bid to optimise your brewery’s

hygiene.

Drainage has a major impact on the hygienic performance of all food and drink processing facilities including breweries, explains Andy Buchan, divisional managing director of ACO Building Drainage.

He explains: “In food and drink factories, 70 per cent of positive listeria screens are found in the drainage.

The impact on a business and on public health can be significant. In 2017, the world’s largest listeria outbreak, which killed 216 people, was traced back to a food factory.

“Clearly, drainage has an important role to play when it comes to hygiene and ultimately public safety. Drainage cannot, however, be considered in isolation.

“As the European Hygienic Engineering and Design Group (EHEDG) states, it is essential that drainage, cleaning processes and flooring are considered holistically as they all directly impact upon the performance of each other.

Drainage needs to be fit for purpose, hygienically designed and importantly should be designed to be cleanable.”

statistics, slips, trips and falls continue to be a major

According to Buchan, drainage systems should be

cause of injuries in the workplace – resulting in a huge

designed in accordance with the best practice design

rise in personal injury claims over recent years.

principles of EHEDG and should apply the standards

“The correct drainage and floor covering will avoid liquids ponding on the floor and provide appropriate slipresistance to help to reduce such accidents. We always

reserved for food contact surfaces EN1672 and EN ISO 14159.

Specifically, channels should have completely

ensure that for surfaces that are prone to spillages,

drainable sumps and a minimal slope of 1% longitudinal

flooring slip-resistance is higher than on dry areas,” says

and cross all areas; there should be no lap joints or

Priest.

welded butt joints which can harbour bacteria, all corners

Meeting the highest hygiene standards is also

should be rounded with minimum radii of 3mm, welds

imperative when looking at new brewery flooring. As with

should be located on flat areas and not corners, and steel

all food and drink processing facilities, brewers must

drainage should be fully pickle passivated.

adhere to optimum hygiene standards.

This means that brewery floors must be food grade or

“The use of hygienically designed drainage has a major impact on cleanliness - what we call ‘cleanability’.

food safe and able to withstand the high temperatures

For example, if drainage channels do not feature curved

and harsh chemicals used during the everyday cleaning

corners with minimum radii of 3mm, it is impossible for

process.

cleaning brushes to reach every part of the drainage

Priest adds: “Brewery floors must also have excellent

channel’s surface and for corners to be cleaned,” he says.

drainage. We usually recommend long floor gulley drains

Buchan adds: “The impact of hygienic design on

that are installed along the centre with the floor finish laid

cleanability was proven by a recent research study

to ‘falls’. This helps prevent the puddling of waste liquids

undertaken by the internationally renowned research

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Brewers Journal

floor i ng

Case study: BRIXTON BREWERY Brixton Brewery specified hygienic flooring as standard when it fit out its new brewing facility last year.

Brixton Brewery tasked Kemtile with the design and installation of a new hygienic flooring system when it expanded into a second, larger, facility during 2018.

Kemtile specified a Kagetec BS system installing 600m2 of 18mm thick Argelith MV Tech ceramic hexagonal floor tiles.

Ultrasonically vibrated into position, this innovative technique eliminates air voids underneath and compacts the bedding screed to provide an extremely even, robust, aesthetic and hygienic floor surface.

The company complemented Kagetec BS with Wiedemann-Technik heavy duty stainlesssteel drainage gullies and stainless-steel kerbs – further strengthening the flooring system as well as proving greater impact resistance.

Jez Galaun, co-founder of Brixton Brewery, explained that opening a second, larger premises was at the heart of its ambitious

brewersjournal.info

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expansion plans.

"We’d outgrown our original brewery and our new site has enabled us to significantly increase our capacity whilst gaining even greater control over the brewing process.

Needless to say, it was essential that our strategic expansion was undertaken with the support of specialist trusted partners.

“We were impressed by Kemtile’s track record with other UK breweries, so it was an obvious choice when it came to our new flooring and drainage.

“We’d already visited a number of Kemtile’s very satisfied brewery customers and we loved what we saw and heard. We wanted the same at our new site to support our future growth and evolution.”

Kemtile’s Richard Kay, explains: “In recent years we’ve earned ourselves an enviable reputation amongst the nation’s brewers and I’m very happy to say that we’re increasingly becoming the ‘go-to’ partner when it comes to brewery flooring design and installation. We were delighted to support Brixton Brewery at such an exciting time in its strategic expansion.”

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institute, Fraunhofer IVV Dresden.

“Commissioned by ACO, this independent study was designed to fully assess the impact of hygienic design on drainage performance. We wanted to know how

products and equipment hygienically designed, and is your drainage designed to make cleaning quick, easy and effective?

As part of your HACCP process, your protocol should

the application of hygienic design impacted upon the

state what needs to be cleaned, how frequently it will

cleanability of drainage channels and as a consequence,

be cleaned, how it will be conducted and how you will

hygiene and cleaning costs.

measure cleanliness.

“The research compared the performance of the

According to Buchan, what is also important is that the

ACO HygieneFirst channel – which incorporates the best

cleaning equipment you use at your brewery should also

practice design principles of EHEDG, EN1672 and EN

be hygienically designed.

ISO 14159 - with another channel whose design is typical

In doing so, this will help minimise the risk of bacterial

of that currently used by the food, drinks and brewing

contamination and ensure compliance with the relevant

industry.

legislation.

“It found that hygienically engineered and designed

He explains: “Ensure your drainage is designed to

drainage channels can be effectively and completely

make cleaning quick, easy and effective. By doing so,you

cleaned in less than 10 minutes whereas non-hygienic

can ensure cleaning will be completed, not ignored,

channel still has 2 per cent residual soiling after an

cleaning time and operational costs will be reduced, and

extended rinsing time of up to three hours.”

risks to hygiene will be reduced."

Buchan concludes by pointing out that a well-

Drainage & cleaning protocol

designed drainage system gives your brewery solid foundations to build upon.

W

help to ensure that cleaning operatives are not tempted

that your brewery’s cleaning protocol and

to adopt poor cleaning practices such as power-washing

its drainage are compatible. Ask yourself,

– an excellent way to spread the bacteria living in your

how robust is your cleaning protocol; are your cleaning

32

"If your drainage system is easy to clean, it will also

hen it comes to cleanability, it is essential

February 2018

drainage system around your brewing facility,” he adds. u

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i n s i g ht

cann i ng

The canning proposition Alloa, Scotland-based Williams Bros wanted a canning line to handle the packaging of its canned beers, as well as that of other breweries, so they turned to Enterprise Tondelli, which supplied a system capable of filling vessels from 330ml up to 500ml.

touches the product reducing fobbing. The cans are static with no lift cylinders and the movement of the valve is only minimal with very few moving parts due to flow meters being used.

A central filling bowl with a CIP spray ball and the automatic multiple step CIP ensures better hygiene and also lower product wastage at the end of production. Low TIPO was also important.

Part of the project was to increase automation so that

by tIM sHEAHAN

personnel can be better utilised therefore a high level combined bottle and can depalletiser from Enterprise

W

installed. This design allows both bottles and cans to

illiams Bros Brewing Co is based

be automatically depalletised and sent to the can filler

in Alloa, Clackmannanshire.

or existing glass filler via a pad type lowerator from

Producing a eclectic range of

Eurosistemi Srl.

modern beers for the international market, the business is also

To rationalise water consumption ionised air cleaning of the cans is used with a twin lane gravity can rinser

steeped in Scottish tradition and remains the last

suitable for both 330 ml, 440ml and 500 ml cans too. To

bastion of brewing in a town, that was once regarded as

complete the product integrity checks an X Ray level

'Scotland's Beer Capital'.

inspector rejecter was fitted by Enterprise.

As an independent brewery, and also a business that

The complete conveyor circuit and controls was

acts as a central hub for the bottling and packaging, its

designed and supplied by Enterprise with the facility

commercial brews started out at a 5-barrel brewery in

to add additional phased modules to increase the

Taynult near Oban on the West Coast.

throughput and also to add further process and

Here, they were able to brew just enough to supply cask conditioned Fraoch to five premises, including the Clachaig in Glencoe, which to this day remains its most loyal and enduring customer.

packaging plant as the demand continues to increase for canned product.

Scott Williams, co-founder of Williams Bros, explained: “It has taken us some time to add this new facility to our

As the brewery has grown and developed, so has

plant as we decided to dramatically upgrade the line

the type of beers it offers customers. And the way those

environment by adding a completely new building to

beers reach the eager drinker.

house the line.

With that in mind, the brewery made the decision to

“This new building makes for a fantastic area for the

invest in a canning facility and they turned to Enterprise

line with purpose built drains, specialist flooring, wall

Tondelli, which supplied a can filler and seamer

finishes and lighting.

manufactured by Matrix srl in Parma, Italy.

This machine uses electro-pneumatically controlled

“This is the fourth project we have worked with Enterprise and we are very pleased with the final result.

valves for control of the CO2 purging, snifting etc all of

We have really appreciated the support given by

which can be controlled and preset from the operator

Enterprise in the planning and execution of the plant.”

panel and for the differing fill characteristics of the various beer types.

Additionally each filling valve has a flow meter so that beer volumes are measured and the vent tube no longer

34

February 2018

Craig Wilson, managing director at Enterprise Tondelli UK added: “It has been a real pleasure working with Williams Bros. and compliment them on the building provided and look forwards to continuing collaboration.” u

Brewers Journal

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By

T he

H orns

m e e t

th e

b r e w e r

Taking beer head on

By The Horns were one of the so-called second wave of breweries to open in London when Alex Bull and Chris Mills started brewing professionally back in 2011. In the years since, the Wandsworth brewery has produced more than 250 different beers, secured prestigious listings and opened a taproom that’s a local community hub. And with new kit bedded-in, they’re just getting started.

Pale Ale for the first time, you truly realise how crap the lager you were dealing with at university was,” laughs Alex Bull, co-founder of London’s By The Horns Brewing Co. Friends through university, Bull and Mills studied different degrees during their time at Bath but both followed the path to North America following their studies. While Bull departed for North California to teach football, Mills’ travels would take him to famed skiing destination Whistler, north of Vancouver.

While the modern UK beer scene was very much in its infancy back in 2008, Bull was having his beer epiphany thanks to Sierra Nevada’s Pale Ale. One of hundreds, thousands and more, that said beer has lit a fire under.

by Tim sheahan

“Being so close to Chico meant great beer from the brewery was everywhere. It really made me look at things

W

in a different way,” says Bull. “It put things in perspective.”

exciting existence just around the corner. You might also

you had then taken those beers for granted and easy

want to be your own boss, managing your own time. Most

access to the beers we now loved was not so easy!” says

of us do, after all.

Bull.

e’ve all been there. You’re sat

While Bull was imbibing fresh Pale Ale, Mills was going

around, or maybe standing. Who

on his beer journey in British Columbia. Establishments

knows. But you’re daydreaming

such as the Whistler Brewhouse would broaden his

about doing something different

palate, beers Bull would also enjoy after making his own

for a living, certain that the grass

trip to Whistler and the North West the year following.

is greener on the other side and there’s a much more

“The problem is, when you return home, you realised

So when Alex Bull and Chris Mills, university friends

Thankfully for them, some supermarkets were

whose collective eyes had been broadened by travel and

starting to bring over some US staples, while CAMRA

working abroad, started new jobs back in London nearly

beer festivals helped scratch that particular itch. Just not

10 years ago, it didn’t take long for the duo to get itchy

enough, evidently.

feet and long for something new. And didn’t help their

“We drank some great beer at those festivals. But we

cause that they had also been bitten by the beer bug, too.

drank some bad beer, too,” says Bull. “So after a couple

At that point, there was no going back.

of pints, you’re full of confidence you can do things better

“It’s only when you are drinking fresh Sierra Nevada

brewersjournal.info

yourself. Obviously.”

February 2018

37

m e e t

th e

b r e w e r

By

T he

A homebrew kit was ordered, as were various books to

H orns

with Heineken and Amstel sticks adorning their exterior.

complement their learning. These volumes were read and

Kit that was sent to Oban Ales which fabricated the tanks

absorbed in swift fashion so other titles followed in what

to their specification. Though those tanks have long since

Bull recalls an important time of learning for the duo.

been sold, Bull is certain those well-known logos are still

It should come as no surprise that clones of Sierra Nevada’s Pale Ale were the brewers’ foray into the world

present under the cladding their retrofitted.

“We started out with a 5.5 bbl kit, brewing once or

of beer production. Beers that went down well, especially

twice a week. Beers like Stiff Upper Lip we still brew now,

at the house parties hosted as their shared house. Nearly

but others like an American-style wheat beer have fallen

a year passed and by the middle of 2010, Mills and Bull

by the wayside,” he says. “Maybe those types of hazy

spotted an opportunity and sensed the timing was right

beers, especially on cask, weren’t right for the time. The

to take it.

amount of times that beer would be returned because of

“We would attend all of these festivals but be surprised at how comparatively few breweries actually operated out

its appearance was unreal.”

Bull was able to convince his employers to change

of London,” says Bull. “We both loved the idea of doing

his hours to part-time, while Mills continued in full-time

something for ourselves so at that point, the seeds for

employment. While Bull would carry out day-to-day

sown for us to pursue our own brewery.”

duties at the brewery, Mills would head there after work

In the world of work. Mills was handling offshore purchasing for a marketing business, while Bull was on

before brewing, cleaning and planning into the evening.

He says: “We were living in a shared house at the time

a graduate scheme at an oil company. They used their

so while it was hard work, it was both fun and exciting,

spare time to locate a site that could enable the would-be

too. We had a passion to get our beers on hand pumps

brewers to start a small brewery that could be run as both

in pubs we love and bottles in the off licences. That vision

a hobby, and a part-time profession.

drives you during those cold late nights."

This site would end up being in Summerstown in

Recipes such as the 5.1% Lambeth Porter would go

SW17, a little-known area between Wimbledon, Tooting

on to win awards across the UK and the brewery’s beers

and Clapham. Investment from the duo, friends and

would find a home on the guest taps of the prestigious

family would secure the site and also the necessary kit

pubs Bull and Mills had hoped.

required to get going.

Tanks that were bought from Holland arrived complete

38

February 2018

“We knew most of the independent real ale pubs across London because we drank in them,” says Bull.

Brewers Journal

By

“So we’d approach places we respected such as The Bricklayers Arms in Putney and The Bree Louise in

T he

H orns

m e e t

th e

b r e w e r

We've learnt a a lot,” says Bull.

He explains: “Learning is so important at a brewery.

Euston, anywhere that was well regarded and sold guest

If you don't learn then you don't grow. After the first two

beers.”

years we had brewed 80 beers. We’re now up to 250. It’s

Such beers ended up on rotation at 10 or so pubs so extra capacity was added early on, all at a time where Bull and Mills were endeavouring to teach themselves everything and anything about running the brewery.

He recalls: “I feel like we were a part of the second

a leaning process and a valuable one. But the beers have never been better."

Bull has never been happier with the brewery’s beers and processes. A core can and keg range comprises beers such as Hopadelic Session IPA, Cosmic Warrior

wave of London breweries. Before us you had

Pale Ale and a 4.0% Lager. While core cask bees include

Sambrook’s, Redemption, Windsor & Eton and The Kernel.

Giggle Mug Amber Bitter, Lambeth Walk and Stiff Upper

Then it was us and outfits such as ELB, Moncada and

Lip. These are complemented by seasonal and special

Hackney Brewery.

numbers such as Dead Man’s Chest Oyster Oatmeal Rum

“We look back at how we've developed, the

Stout, a Brut IPA called Spark Dust, Dusk till Dawn Old

investment in kit such conditioning tanks back in 2013 and

Amber Ale and Chateau Rouge, a wine barrel-aged Red

there was no manual for small breweries making beers

Farmhouse Saison.

like we wanted. The only advice available was on big

The company’s equipment setup is at its most modern,

scale for bigger breweries. It was challenging, but it was

too. A recent investment in a Framax canning line has

an opportunity, too.”

given the brewery the ability to fill 250ml, 330ml, 440ml

So when it came to moving into kegged beers, By The Horns sat down and assessed their options. This would

and 500ml vessels at upwards of 1,000 cans per hour.

“I did my research and the gravity fill technology

result in the decision to invest in conditioning tanks, run

featured in a lot of American systems seemed ok,

it through a carbonation stone, drop bright in the tank

and clearly do well for many breweries, but I wasn't

before carbonating and keg on site.

convinced,” says Bull. “Working with Framax, they

“We like to do everything on site because it allows

supplied us a counter pressure filler with the same

us to control everything, manage our expectations, and

technology in their rotary lines. It was expensive but in

teach ourselves the best process. I'm proud of how

terms of quality and what we perceive was right for us it

quality procedures continue to improve over the years.

made sense.”

brewersjournal.info

February 2018

39

m e e t

th e

b r e w e r

By

T he

It’s no coincidence that investment in in-house canning

H orns

brewery’s canned output grow even further. So much

has timed perfectly with a rebrand that adorns marketing

so, that the arrival of two new 4,000l vessels is imminent

material and vessels such as cans.

and for the first time, canned produce will become the

“We were improving as a brewery, improving as a team

majority package for By The Horns.

so we felt it was time to pause and refresh. We wanted to

Bull explains: “At the moment we are 65% cask,

take the brewery forward and impactful, strong branding

20% keg and 15% can. By the end of this year, that will

is key to that,” he says. “A lot had changed in the years we

swing to 80% can. We never wanted to commit to major

had been brewing so a rebrand was timely."

contracts without the ability to cater for them. But the new

Bull and Mills were impressed with the work Nebojsa Matkovic put into a mock up brewery, work designed to showcase his wares to potential brewery clients. Those designs adorn the blank canvas labels are then applied to, creating a complex and strong juxtaposition of artwork.

capacity and with canning technology in-house, we can confidently fulfil these obligations.”

Not bad progress for a team that fell into the world of quality modern beer.

“We want to push on, make new beers and never lose

Working on the brewery’s canned output has been

sight of that desire to experiment,” says Bull. “If we can do

part of the bigger picture, but a new contract with online

that, improve all the time, grow this time and brew beers

drinks membership business Flavourly will see the

people enjoy then it’s job done.” u

40

February 2018

Brewers Journal

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product i on

s e c to r

The Digital Advantage

Investment in software is a key way to take your brewery to the next level.

Through management, compliance and quality control software you can keep track of your production, processes and analyse what approach works best for you and your team.

He adds: “This helps them further understand their customers to help communicate with greater relevance.

The biggest impact this can have is keeping their customers engaged with their brand.

“Our clients are also looking to us to create dashboards with the ability to really interrogate their data, to help them, relatively easily, spot crucial trends in their data to help them act on key changes in purchase trends, quicker. People also appreciate proactivity. Giving them

by Tim sHEAHAN

crucial information that they were previously unaware of.”

One offering Performalytics has for breweries is a sales

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analytics platform where by, via an array of dashboards

hile it may not always seem it,

accessed online, they can monitor their latest business

investing hard-earned cash in your

performance and interrogate their sales trends, both

brewery need not be focused

consumer and trade, instantaneously.

exclusively on the procurement of heavy capital equipment.

“These dashboards cover performance from top line performance to specific customer, product and

There is a wealth of software out there designed to

geographical trends, enabling your key decision makers

help boost productivity, improve efficiency and open-up

to make the more informed decisions, sooner,” explains

new markets for your beer.

Dickens.

“People are increasingly looking for customer

He says: “Our products are focussed to support sales,

segmentation,” explains James Dickens, managing

marketing, finance and then the senior management

director of Performalytics. “This is when we put

team in making the most informed day to day decisions

their customers into different categories based on a

possible. In order to be able to provide this service to

combination of their historical purchase trends along

brewers of all sizes, we have created a tired pricing

with lifestyle data to understand more about what their

structure so that those who need it most, don’t miss out.”

customers look like.”

brewersjournal.info

Dickens also acknowledges that investments into

February 2018

43

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product i on

Compliance and auditing

W

hile data analytics play a key role in helping boost sales and identifying your customers buying trends, software can also help

increase and improve other parts of your brewery, such as compliance.

BrewMan, from Premier Systems, features a production module that has been designed to aid SALSA accreditation. The brewery management software, which has been installed at more than 200 breweries, has helped many of these achieve such accreditation.

The SALSA plus Beer Audit has been developed to offer small and micro-sized brewers a standard tailored to their particular operation and to allow approved members to approach buyers with their craft ales and beers with reinforced confidence. Additional criteria contained in the SALSA plus Beer Standard were developed to encourage excellence in the brewing & bottling industry, raise the profile of processors within the brewing industry, provide a forum for exchange of ideas, and give clear guidelines for approval to brewers and bottlers “In recent years it has become more important for breweries to prove their compliance to rigorous food safety standards, particularly when selling to supermarket chains,” the company said. “There are a number of accreditations that are applicable to breweries, including HACCP (Hazard analysis and critical control points) and SALSA (Safe and Local Supplier Approval) and the SALSA plus Beer Audit.”

According to Premier Systems, the software’s production module addresses requirements to help brewers achieve accreditation. These include cleaning:

software and systems can have as a dramatic impact on

BrewMan monitors the usage of brewing vessels and

business performance as investment in bricks and mortar

tanks and, once a vessel has been emptied, flags the

and heavy-duty equipment.

vessel as requiring a clean.

“One of the core benefits of this type of investment

Brewers can then record the single or multi-stage

can have a massive impact on the day to day operations

clean that they have performed to release the vessel

of non-brewing areas of the business. In turn, this

back to production. The cleaning processes themselves

investment can save the business £000’s, offering strong

are defined within the system, thus giving you your

return on the investment,” says Dickens.

procedures.

He adds: “All small/medium sized businesses

When it comes to the control of raw materials,

experience pressures on resource, these types of

BrewMan keeps records of all of your brewery’s raw

investment can reduce admin levels, enabling them to

material stock. The stock control records each batch of

spend more time on the day job that helps drive business

materials received by date and batch number.

revenues. This is why we have created a multi-tiered pricing structure.

"Whilst we offer bespoke analytics solution to the

The system then manages stock and suggest the raw materials that should be used in the brewing process on a first-in, first-out basis, ensuring that your stock is

larger brewers, we have also invested in creating a

rotated correctly. Elsewhere, the software produces a

solution that enables smaller brewers to benefit these

brew control sheet for every batch you brew and within

services as well. After all, the benefits of these services

the brew sheet you may define any quality control checks

can have a far more dramatic impact on the smaller

that are required. u

businesses.”

44

February 2018

Brewers Journal

product i on

s e c to r

Five ways you can break into more outlets with better quality controls, by Vision33

S

ecuring a sale with a new distributor or retailer,

3. Tangible targets

or getting that coveted tap spot takes a lot of hard work - right? Here, Vision33, which supplies

Consistency is king, especially for retailers. Illustrating

brewery management software OrchestratedBeer in the

how your brewery sets targets and reports against them

UK, aims to help you understand how the seemingly

for each process of making your beer is key. It’s your

mundane task of capturing quality and batch data on

guarantee that the product you’re shipping will taste the

your brews can give you an edge when convincing a new

same, time and time again.

customer to take on your beer and give you that opening.

What are you already tracking to manage consistency?

In making wort, you typically have four cycles: mash,

1. Compliance can be convincing

lauter, kettle, and whirlpool. During each of these stages you are likely to record gravity, pH, times, temps,

Walking a customer through your entire health and safety

volumes, start of boil, salt, yeast information to pitch, and

procedures might send them to sleep and may not

more. When you turn the wort into green or rough beer

close the deal. But proving how obsessed you are with

(fermentation), you’re likely already recording the periodic

perfecting that brew just might.

measurements in the tank. Elements such as: °P, pH, temp

Key information about the latest batch of the brew you are pitching is necessary.

Knowing how you monitored the gravity, times, temps and yeast information – or even the batches of hops and

when chilled, yeast info, original gravity, quality, and taste are recorded even if the lab has approved it. Attentionally, you could be measuring gases, volumes, start/end times, quality checks, weight, and density.

grains that went into your brew and the suppliers they came from is powerful stuff.

Demonstrating that you can easily track this info gives

4. Real time reporting

confidence that you could handle a product recall with ease and are in control of the supply chain - all pretty

Proving that you’re monitoring this data and that you’re

convincing stuff, especially when dealing with a big

equipped to present the information when requested,

retailer.

shows that even the youngest brewery can be compliant with the demands that chains and ‘big retail’ require from

2. Better beer recalls

their suppliers.

Beer recalls; they’re one of those things that brewers

make adjustments to either lower cost or increase

hope never to happen to them.

efficiency. When all data is then reported against the

The trick is to watch your processes over time and

Unfortunately, they are something brewers will likely

targets you have set for each brand or brew, you can then

be forced to deal with at some point. So, it’s important

track variances by batch to ensure you’re shipping the

for breweries to prove they can stay ahead of the recall

most consistent brews to your most stringent retailers.

game - traceability and quality control are both key ways to prevent and manage beer recalls.

5. Single source of data

Recalls can be often be caused by safety issues. For example; bottle defects have been a common theme

You have the processes in place. You’re capturing the

in recent years, with two large breweries issuing major

data and pulling together reports. But you’re probably

voluntary recalls due to concerns around glass shards.

using Excel and/or bits of paper to do it right? Using

Providing traceability for packaged beer down to a batch

a brewery management system which is designed to

number as part of your sales cycle allows customers

capture and report on batch and quality control data can

to feel confident in your ability to easily recall affected

be a real time saver, not to mention a game changer.

products.

brewersjournal.info

February 2018

45

c ro s s i n g

co nti n e nt s

M uskoka

B rewery

Patience is a virtue In an age of frenetic beer release schedules, launching the first addition to your core range in more than four years is something of a lesser seen approach to business. But playing the long game in only releasing a new beer when it’s been dialled-in, and when the time is right, is the Muskoka Brewery way. And the beer is all the better for it.

by Tim Sheahan

T

Government of Ontario in collaboration with the Ontario Craft Brewers (OCB), proposed changes to the Small Beer Manufacturer’s Tax credit, which when passed, will positively impact Ontario craft breweries, empowering them to grow their operations, create more jobs and expand to new markets – both domestically and internationally.

For Muskoka Brewery, the improved tax credit, as well as a substantial grant awarded by the Ministry of Economic Development, presented the opportunity to invest in its growth and expansion.

“The renewed tax credit wasn’t just good for Muskoka Brewery, it’s good for Ontario craft beer. As a pioneer in the industry, we know there are significant hurdles to

odd Lewin, president of Ontario, Canada's

reach profitability,” says Lewin. “This improved tax credit

Muskoka Brewery, doesn’t do things by

will remove a major barrier to growth and help small

halves. But when you see what you’re doing

breweries get over significant hurdles.”

is working, and working well, then why would you look to do things otherwise?

Year-on-year growth, a team that’s swelled from 30 to

130 in seven years, and an established core range of beer are all pointers that signify success. But as Lewin enters

With this longer runway to grow and succeed, the company has invested $5 million in the brewery’s operations, the largest capital expansion in its near 22year history.

These funds were earmarked to help the business

the 8th year of his tenure at the Bracebridge brewery,

increase the brewery’s capacity and continuously

he’s as eager as ever for Muskoka to make its mark on

improve the quality of its beer through new, cutting-edge

the Canadian brewing landscape. And he knows that the

technology and equipment.

team behind the Muskoka name is integral, no essential, to that success.

“Call it a cliché, but we work hard and we play hard,” explains Lewin.

He’s happy to roll out such effective platitudes

It also supports an expanded and enhanced retail store and taproom experience to solidify Muskoka as a destination brewery for locals, cottagers, day-trippers and tourists.

The multi-million dollar spend allowed the brewery

because as the brewery shuts for Christmas, the team has

to invest in a new canning line, catering for the shift from

planned its workload so inventory levels are as expected

bottling to canning its produce. Such an investment was

and his colleagues can enjoy some well-earned time off.

a no-brainer when you crunch the figures. Five years

“I’m a firm believer that you benefit from the culture

ago, 50% of Muskoka’s beers were bottled and 50% were

you help create. And when you’re surrounded by such

canned. Now that’s 90/10 in favour of cans, so a new

hard-working, talented individuals, immersing yourself in

machine, supplied by Krones, was a necessity.

a positive, productive environment like we have here is very easy indeed,” he says.

Lewin is modest, yet determined. Muskoka enters 2019 off the back of productive, successful 12 months both for the business, and the beers that business makes.

Since 2016, the brewery has worked in partnership

Two older machines could can at a rate of 30cpm and 60cpm respectively, but the Krones model offers output speeds up to 240cpm. A true step change.

“We are very happy with it,” says Lewin. “We conducted a great deal of research on the options available to us, but we wanted to make a statement and opt for a system

with the Ontario Craft Brewers Association to advocate for

that would do well for Muskoka. Lots of breweries are

changes to the Small Beer Manufacturer’s Tax Credit and

putting a pause on such investments, but we wanted to

help craft breweries, like itself, grow.

move on, put our foot back out there and show people

With the introduction of last year’s budget, the

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February 2018

we believe in the beer we are making, and we believe in

Brewers Journal

c ro s s i n g

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M uskoka

B rewery

this business” The investment in machinery is a big step for any brewery, especially when it’s carried out during the hectic summer months. In Lewin’s own words, summer was a “tough” time to undertake such a move, and it inevitably disrupted the business. But the long-term benefits are far greater as a result.

“It was a big moment for Muskoka Brewery, small businesses and for Ontario beer drinkers. It means better beer, more choice and that Canadians’s favourite breweries will be able to stick around,” says Lewin. “As a proudly independent brewery, we feel a tremendous amount of pride that our investment will stay in Ontario and support our local economy and community.”

Lewin’s pride in the Ontario community has only grown since joining the business back in 2011. He came on board with a business run by Gary McMullen, who founded Muskoka back in 1996 and Bob MacDonald, the majority partner who joined the Muskoka cause 12 years later in 2008.

As vice-president of sales and marketing, Lewin was part of a team that knew it needed to update its approach to business, broaden its sales team and ensure its beer could be enjoyed further across Ontario and Canada as a whole.

Lewin, who has spent 13 years within sales and marketing at Molson Coors, knew he could apply his experience to Muskoka and grow the business by grabbing “low-hanging fruit” and build its client and customer base as a result.

Growth of close to 25% year-on-year growth has been achieved in the eight years since Lewin joined the business. He’s acutely aware of the team effort involved, especially with the brewery’s founder McMullen departing in early 2017. That move paved the way for Lewin to become the brewery’s president, a role he continues to relish.

“The timing of moving to Muskoka was good for me and the business, and we’ve thankfully grown in these recent years,” says Lewin. “But as you continue to grow and scale up, it’s important to acknowledge that delivering that percentage growth each year becomes harder. You just need to concentrate on what you’re doing, and try and do it well."

Lewin admits that growth in the last eight years correlated with a period in which 30 or so breweries operated in Ontario. Now that number is closer to 300.

But just as the number of breweries has grown so has Muskoka, its team, and its brand.

"Our culture and team has allowed us to build, improve and maintain our vision,” he tells us. “It’s hard when you feel like a tight-knit group of 20-30 people, and then over the years, that becomes 130 people. It’s important to make sure that everyone feels welcome, and that they

50

February 2018

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M uskoka

B rewery

are part of the team.”

Muskoka produces its beers on a 70hl brewhouse, focusing on five core brands that comprise 95% of its volume. While Lewin enjoys the experimentation aspect of brewing, he reiterates that the focus from day one has been on developing a “real brand” and ensuring stability and security as a result.

With that in mind, its newest beer, Ebb & Flow, recently became the outfit’s first addition to its core range since 2014. Complementing favourites such as Cream Ale, Detour and Mad Tom IPA, the new beer is a low ABV session number. But instead of being a Session Pale, Muskoka has instead chosen to produce a 2.4% Session Sour.

According to the brewery, you’ll pick up a light tropical aroma with notes of lime and grapefruit on the nose of this effervescent beer. With a pleasantly tart flavour up front, there’s no need to pucker up “It’s all in the name. ‘Ebb & Flow’ calls out balance that’s achieved in motion. It’s well-suited to occasions when you’re craving a full-flavoured beer, but need to stay the course, whether that’s your weekend chores, heading back to work after a lunchtime pint or catching up with friends over the holidays,” says Lewin. “Sours continue to attract new drinkers to the beer category and with the recent legalization of cannabis, we also see occasions where there is crossover with a low alcohol beer option.”

The launch of Ebb & Flow is something of a milestone for Muskoka. Lewin explains that there’s been something of a fragmentation of the market during his time in beer, something that’s only amplified during his years at the Ontario brewery.

“Gone are the days that people would adopt a brand and stick with it for life. There’s a promiscuity centered around drinkers wanting to explore new styles, and that’s understandable,” he says. “It’s a change of culture and for us, when we launched beers like Mad Tom IPA out in to the world, it helped us learn about the types of beers drinkers wanted.”

Lewin adds: “We were banging on doors that would shut on your face, but we remained focused on building these brands because we had faith in them. We wanted to develop real brands with real equity. And we stuck with that.

“You see a lot of breweries chasing short term trends, and I believe that’s an example of short-termism. For us, it’s about having a position and looking to differentiate yourself when it comes to quality and consistency. It’s

nothing else are long gone. It’s ok to be promiscuous now.

your sword to fall on.”

We have a saying that we want to be two of every eight-

For Lewin, quality is all-important. Because if you’re

pack you buy. And with that, our name is a guarantee

not offering a quality, reliable experience then you can’t

of a quality, well-made beer. And yes, you have our

blame the consumer for looking elsewhere.

permission to drink other brewery’s beers too,” he laughs.

“The days of people buying a case of one beer and

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February 2018

Lewin is thrilled to be part of such a hotbed of brewing

Brewers Journal

M uskoka

B rewery

c ro s s i n g

co nti n e nt s

innovation in Ontario, and sees the growth of sour, wild

at Muskoka. What’s been important is that we want to

fermentation beer is a boon for the industry. He’s also

make a difference in the community, through our beer,

thrilled that Muskoka continues to grow with it, especially

employment and the benefits those things bring

after a year of upheaval even if it’s all for the greater good.

“We continue to ask ourselves what is the reason we exist,” he states. “We’ve never had a traditional vision here

brewersjournal.info

“I feel that this brewery has shown resolve in its lifetime, and we never take things for granted. We always want to improve, and to do better.” u

February 2018

53

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E sters

&

P henols

s c i e n c e

Wheat Beer, Esters and Phenols: How to influence them to your advantage Weisse beer has undergone somewhat of a resurgence. Beers produced by traditional brewers of the style are popular not just in the traditional southern German heartlands but also worldwide.

And there are practical steps a brewer can take to influence the yeast derived Esters and Phenols present in Wheat Beer as well as in other beers, explains Andrew Paterson, technical sales and support for the UK at Lallemand Brewing. by aNDREW pATERSON

W

heat beer is a broad style of top fermenting beer traditional to the regions of Southern Germany, including Bavaria and BadenWürttemberg, as well as parts of

Austria. The terms Weissbier (white beer) or Weizenbier (wheat beer) are used synonymously to denote the style.

The first beers brewed and labelled as Weissbier were brewed in the 1500s by the aristocratic Degenberger family, who were awarded the exclusive right to brew the

Schneider brewery in Munich in 1872 the Weisse style

style in the Bavarian forest region, as well as in Bohemia,

might have died out completely [1].

by Duke Wilhelm IV. The brewery itself was established

These days Weisse beer has undergone somewhat of

in the town of Schwarzach and the beers produced were

a resurgence with beers produced by traditional brewers

seen to be the preserve of the gentry [1].

of the style popular not just in the traditional southern

On the subsequent death of the head of the

German heartlands but worldwide. The style, while not

Degenberger family, Baron Hans Sigmund Degenberger,

as frequently reproduced as the now ubiquitous IPA, has

the rights to brew Weissbier passed to Duke Maximilian

also been much imitated by craft brewers across the

I of Bavaria. Seeing the economic potential the Duke

globe

opened several more Weiss breweries including one

Key characteristics

in Munich, now the site of the iconic Hofbräuhaus, and one in Kelheim, which would later become the famous Schneider Weisse brewery [1].

The popularity of the style boomed through the 1700s but the invention of refrigeration and competition from the new bottom fermenting styles (lager) caused sales to decrease to the point of unprofitability. Were it not for the insight of Georg Schneider who opened the original

brewersjournal.info

W

hen we think of Weissbier we think of an almost pearlescent, opaque beer with a large rocky head of foam, usually served in

an oversized glass. Aromas of banana and clove hit the nose, (if the foam doesn’t first) and fruity flavours along

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s c i e n c e

E sters

&

P henols

Left: Iso-amyl acetate, Ester group circled in red.

Right: 4-VG, Phenol group circled in green

Decarboxylation of hydroxycinnamic acids to form vinylphenols. In this case, Ferulic acid reacts to form 4-VG.

with a slight tartness and zing due to very high levels

by active enzymatic decarboxylation by yeast strains

of carbonation fill the mouth. Indeed the theatre and

possessing the Phenolic Off Flavour (POF+) phenotype.

performance associated with drinking Weissbier may

The original wild type ancestor of modern brewing yeast

have much to do with its modern day success; you feel

strains probably possessed this trait. However, genetic

like you’ve won a prize every time you go to the bar.

selection pressures of continuous re-pitching has led to

This is the classic punter’s view of Weiss beer, in fact the style is quite broad and can be divided into

most brewing strains losing this ability.

While no longer present in most brewing yeasts,

Hefeweizen, (containing yeast) and Kristallweizen (filtered

the characteristic prevailed in many strains used for the

and bright). Hefeweizen is by far the more popular of the

production of Belgian Beers, Saisons and German Wheat

two. These two types can be further broken down into

Beers contributing to part of their distinct character.

Weizenbier (Standard Wheat Beer), Dunkelweizen (Dark

Examples of such strains are Lalbrew Abbaye, Lalbrew

Wheat Beer) and Weizenbock (Wheat Beer brewed in the

Munich Classic, Lalbrew Munich Wheat and Lalbrew

Bock style). Alkoholfrei (free from alcohol) beers are also

Belle Saison.

popular in this category.

Origins of key distinguishing characteristics

Controlling Phenol formation

Two of the key distinguishing flavour characteristics of Wheat Beer, Clove and Banana, have their origins in both the raw ingredients used for the grist and in the yeast strain chosen for the fermentation. Chemically the flavours can be broken down into two distinct groups.

Banana or Iso-amyl acetate is an Ester and is produced as

A

s outlined above 4-VG is produced by the enzymatic transformation of Ferulic Acid present in Barley and Wheat. Understanding the role of

yeast in the formation of the chemical is one thing but

a by-product of yeast metabolism, while Clove or 4-vinyl-

what are the practical steps a brewer can take to control

guiacol (4-VG) is a phenol and is produced by the action

the level and formation of 4-VG?

of yeast on chemicals originating from Malted Barley and Wheat.

Mashing - Studies have found that Ferulic acid is most often present in a bound (esterified) form in the cell wall and must be liberated by enzymes named Feruloyl

Phenol formation

Esterases in order to be released into solution. These enzymes are most active at a temperature of 45 degrees and a pH of 5.8 [3]. As such, and if mashing equipment

T

he Phenol character present in Wheat Beer is

allows, it is ideal to mash in at a starting temperature of 45

derived from enzyme catalysed reactions with a

degrees prior to proceeding to the sacchrification step.

series of chemicals called hydroxycinnamic acids.

Choice of grist – While overall, Wheat Malt has a

These chemicals are abundant in plant cell walls and

marginally higher level of Ferulic Acid than Barley, studies

have both a structural role as well as contributing to the

have shown that more Ferulic Acid is released from a

plants defence mechanism against pathogenic micro-

pure Barley Malt mash than one consisting entirely of

organisms [2].

Wheat Malt [3]. To further complicate the picture it would

The two most common Phenols present are the

appear that bound Ferulic acid is also released from

previously mentioned 4-VG (Clove), derived from

Wheat Malt worts during fermentation, indicating some

Ferulic acid, as well as the related 4-VP, derived from

level of Feruloyl Esterase activity in POF+ strains [3].

P-Coumaric acid. 4-VP whilst usually present at low

This does not take place in worts produced from

levels has an unpleasant character, usually described

Malted Barley showing specificity for the bound form

as bandaid or medicinal; its presence at levels above its

of Ferulic Acid found in Wheat. Studies on the subject

flavour threshold is usually considered as a fault.

suggest the ratio of Barley Malt to Wheat Malt required to

Phenols are created from hydroxycinnamic acids

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February 2018

produce the most 4-VG is in the region of 70:30 [3].

Brewers Journal

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s c i e n c e

due to the enzyme catalysed reaction of an alcohol molecule with an Acetyl-CoA molecule.

The enzyme responsible for mediating the reaction is the alcohol acetyl transferase or AATase [6]. As these esters are soluble in the lipid based walls of yeast the smaller chain esters are able to leave the cell and

Ester synthesis: In this case, Acetyl-CoA reacts with Ethanol to form Ethyl Acetate

contribute to the aroma profile of the beer [6].

Yeast metabolism and Ester synthesis is a complex process and certainly too broad a subject to be fully broached within the scope of this article. To simplify, essentially the production of Esters hinges on three

Influence +ve or -ve both +/-ve Phenol Increasing pressure Yeast strain

Ester

-

-

+/-

+/-

Increasing temperature

+

Increasing glucose conc

+

Increasing FAN

+

Increasing O2/ fatty acid

-

variables. The concentration of the substrate Acetyl-CoA and alcohol molecules, and the concentration and activity level of the AATase enzyme, which catalyses the reaction [6]. The brewer can guide this process by manipulating the following variables.

Controlling Ester formation

Mash temperature

+/-

C

Grist choice

+/-

enzymes involved in Ester synthesis is strain dependent

hoice of yeast strain – The degree to which a particular yeast strain produces a specific Ester profile is greatly influenced by its genetic makeup.

The possession and expression of genes encoding and will define the final Ester profile of the beer [7]. As with Phenols the best way forward here is to contact your yeast supplier and to ask for advice.

Temperature – Raising the temperature of

Pressure – It has been shown that using open top

fermentation increases the expression of enzymes related

tanks at atmospheric pressure increases the levels of

to the synthesis of Higher Alcohols in yeast cells as well

4-VG in Wheat Beers. Fortuitously this has also been

as the aforementioned AAtases [7]. The result is increased

shown to decrease the levels of Styrene, another related,

Ester formation with one study noting a 75% increase in

but undesirable, hydroxycinnamic acid derivative in

Ester formation between 10-12 degrees [7].

Hydrostatic pressure – Tall, and or, pressurized

finished beer [4].

Yeast strain – As already mentioned, a yeast strain

fermenters increase the concentration of CO2 dissolved

should be chosen which displays the POF+ phenotype

in solution. High dissolved CO2 inhibits yeast growth

if this character is required. There are many to choose

by slowing decarboxylation reactions involved in the

from and care must be taken when making a choice. Your

synthesis of Acetyl-CoA and Higher Alcohols [8]. The

yeast supplier should be able to help in this regard. Some

consequence is decreased Ester production at high

wheat beer strains are also classified as var. diastaticus

hydrostatic or top pressures [8].

Wort Composition, Sugars, FAN, Oxygen and Fatty

meaning they possess the STA gene and are able to effectively metabolise dextrins. For a more detailed

Acids – Unsurprisingly the composition of wort greatly

explanation of diastaticus yeasts and the STA gene please

influences the final Ester profile of a beer. Studies have

see the previous issue by Robert Percival [5].

shown that rising levels of Glucose in wort increases the final Ester concentration in a beer; although the

Ester formation

mechanism behind this effect has still to be fully elucidated [9].

T

Increasing Free Amino Nitrogen or FAN increases the

he classic Banana flavour, chemical name Iso-

synthesis of Higher Alcohols leading to greater Ester

amyl acetate, in Wheat Beers comes from a group

formation [7]. Finally, higher levels of Oxygen and Fatty

of chemicals called Esters. Volatile Esters are very

Acid are known to decrease levels of Ester synthesis by

flavour active and often form a significant proportion of

reducing the expression of genes controlling the AATase

the aroma profile in any beer. These volatile esters arise

[7].

brewersjournal.info

February 2018

57

Munich vs Munich classic P henols

Munich was selected in the early 2000’s as our first wheat beer yeast and exhibited mild flavors and aroma.

Good performance and flexibility in terms of style were the key characteristics for choosing that strain. We especially love Munich in Gose, Berliner Weisse, American Wheat and Wit beer styles.

LE

TROPIC

AL

FR

UI

RE

T

FR

UI

T

L RA

L

RA

UT

UT

NE

NE

OHOLIC

CL

CL

R

E

E

ALC

OHOLIC

AL

GREEN APP L

G REEN APP L

ALC

TROPIC

NA

NA

E

O

VE

PE

ACID

PP

E

ACI D

beer styles

LE

NA

NA

R

PP DA

BA

BA

fLAVOR & AROMA

PP DA

PP

RE

Munich Classic was launched in 2015 and selected in collaboration with the Doemens Institute in Germany; specifically for its ability to produce traditional Hefe style beers. The banana and clove flavors and aroma are particularly noticeable without any process modifications.

This yeast makes a beautiful Hefeweizen, Weizenbock or Dunkelweizen.

PE

&

VE

E sters

O

s c i e n c e

Belgian Wit American Style Belgian Triple Belgian blonde Hefeweizen

tEMPERATURE RANGE

Bavarian Weissbier

Weizenbock

Dunkelweizen

Kristalweizen

17 - 22°C (63 - 72°F)

fLOCCULATION

low. Skim-off yeast in open fermenters

aTTENUATION

medium to high

aLCOHOL TOLERANCE

For more information, you can reach us via email at brewing@lallemand.com

Conclusion

T

here are practical steps a brewer can take to influence the yeast derived Esters and Phenols

12 %ABV

www.lallemandbrewing.com

Bibliography 1: ”Schneider Weisse," [Online]. Available: https://schneider-weisse.de/en/node/16.

[Accessed 07 01 2019].

present in Wheat Beer as well as in other beers.

Please see the table below for a summary. To this end, the relationship with your yeast supplier is key. They will know how their strains perform and can make

2: M. Lentz, "The impact of Simple Phenolic Compunds on beer Aroma and Flavor," Fermentation, 2018.

suggestions to brewers for their best use. Included on the following pages are an example recipe for a classic Weisse beer as well as information on our Munich Classic and Munich Wheat beer strains. u

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February 2018

3: I. McMurrough, "Control of Ferulic Acid and 4-Vinyl Guaiacol in Brewing," Jornal. Institute of Brewing, pp. 327-332, 1996.

Brewers Journal

Munich Classic - Munich Hefe 10hl E sters

malt

Liquor Final Kettle Vol

970

Evaporation Rate

Beg Kettle Vol

1000

0.03

L:G

2.5

Mashing in Liquor

460

evaporation amount

0

30

Total Liquor

s c i e n c e

Extract (kg):

122.03 Weight of Malt (kg)

Litres

Sparge Liquor

P henols

Step 2

Step 1

Lauter

&

Original Gravity/Plato BME (premised)

0.860

Colour (Lovibond)

7 to 9

Type of malt

840 1300

1,0484

Munich 1 Wheat Malt Munich 2 TOTAL

12,0

% of Grist

Extract (as-is)

Yield

Colour (L)

Colour contribution

Munich 1

0.400

0.790

0.679

5.0

2.1

Wheat Malt

0.400

0.780

0.671

5.0

2.1

0.2

0.77

0.662

Munich 2

temperature

Font Legend

°F

°C

Conversion Temp

149

65.0

Strike Temp

163

73.0

Sparge acid

Sparge Temp

174

78.9

none

71.85 72.77 36.86 181.47

18

3.8

TOTAL

8.0

Temp Gravity/Brewing parameters Water Malts Hops Yeast

Step 3

hops Type

Kettle Boil Time: 75 Min alpha-acid

IBUs: 15

Hop Additions: 2

Irish Moss @ 30 min before knock-out: (1g per 20 l kettle full volume)

boil time (min)

utilisation %

IBU (%)

IBU contribution

weight of hops (g)

Hersbrucker

0.037

75.00

0.350

0.600

9.00

674

Hersbrucker

0.037

45.00

0.150

0.400

6.00

1049

TOTAL

1723

Step 4

notes

yeast Yeast Type/Number Munich Classic 0.5gm/L max Fermentation Temp

21°C

For more information. you can reach us via email at brewing@lallemand.com

4: R. S. F.-J. M. Katrin J. Schwartz, "Formation of Styrene dependant on fermenation management during wheat beer production," Food Cheistry, vol. 134, no. 4, pp. 2121-2125, 2012.

5: R. Percival, "Diastaticus Yeasts And Their Role In Your Beer," The Brewers Journal, vol. 4, no. 10, pp. 59-63, 2019.

6: G. D. e. a. Kevin J. Verstrepen, "Flavour-Active Esters: Adding Fruitiness to Beer," Journal of Bioscience and Bio Engineering, vol. 96, no. 2, pp. 110-118, 2003.

brewersjournal.info

• Non-filtered • dry hop warm at end of fermentation @ 2gm/L with Herbrucker

www.lallemandbrewing.com

7: E. J. T. J. A. e. a. Pires, "Yeast: The Heart and Soul of Beer's aroma - a review of flavouractive esters and higher alcohols produced by the brewing yeast," Applied Microbiology and Biotechnology, vol. 98, no. 5, pp. 1937-1949, 2014.

8: E. L. G. C. Sophie Landaud, "Top Pressure and Temperature Control the Fusel Alcohol/ Ester Ration Through Yeast Growth in Beer Fermentation," Journal Institute of Brewing, vol.

107, no. 2, pp. 107-117, 2001.

February 2018

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F oam

S c i e n c e

Think Foam Positive Foam is a defining characteristic of beers across the globe, with different cultures embracing different styles of beer foam.

Just think of the dense nitrogen-enriched stout heads, frothy German lager coifs, and Belgian beers poured with foam so ample and meringue-like, it persists until the last drop (we’re looking at you, Orval). However, foam is also an oftenoverlooked property of beer, but foam quality may make the difference between an okay beer experience and a truly great one. explains Richard Preiss co-founder of Escarpment Laboratories brewersjournal.info

by Richard Preiss

T

here is a lot of pretty cool science surrounding beer foam, so we are going to walk through some of the highlights and finish up with some practical tips to enhance beer foam.

Foam is, at its most simple, a mixture of gas and liquid.

In the case of beer foam, we are talking about a mixture of CO2 (or beer gas) inside bubbles of beer. Beer foam has two major properties: foam formation, and foam stability. When carbonated beer is dispensed, foam is produced as a result of CO2 bubbles released by the pressure reduction. The more nucleation points (cracks, imperfections, etchings) in the glass, the more CO2 will

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S c i e n c e

F oam

be released from the beer. Usually, the CO2 will pick up

content. Other wort components can also play a role in

some surface active compounds along the way (such as

foam quality. Polysaccharides have a role in stabilizing

proteins, polysaccharides, etc), which help to stabilize the

bubble size, while melanoidins can also promote foam

foam.

stability.

You can’t make stable foam in a glass of water –

Of relevance to the juicy IPA crowd, there is some

these surface active compounds are required for foam

evidence that polyphenols can negatively impact foam,

stability. Both foam-positive compounds and soluble

since they can bind with proteins that may otherwise be

gas are important for the overall foam quality of a beer.

foam-positive. Recent hop research even shows that

In general, the more CO2 in solution in the beer, the

different hops can have positive or negative effects on

greater the capacity for foam formation. This is why bottle

foam quality! Foam is very complicated, and no single

conditioned Belgian beers with high CO2 pressure tend to

ingredient is a silver bullet for optimal foam.

produce more foam than a standard force carbonated ale.

Foam and our favourite fungus

When foam is formed, the inevitable process of collapse begins. However, the rate of foam collapse is highly dependent on the foam’s stability. When a foam collapses, bubbles within the foam burst and are absorbed back into the liquid phase of the beer. Some beer pouring strategies intended to promote stable form involve pouring beer, then waiting a half minute before

E

ven yeast plays a major role in beer foam quality.

When beer (and the yeast that fermented it) is aged, the yeast can sometimes enzymatically

break down LPT1, which can lead to decrease in foam

pouring more beer, to encourage a thicker foam “cap”

stability. This is especially common with yeast which

with less potential for collapse.

is experiencing poor nutrition and being starved in the

A controlled rate of foam collapse is important. Since foam contains beer, and its associated aroma molecules, a stable foam is capable of releasing the flavour of the

bottom of a big tank. Unhealthy yeast can lead to poor foam!

Beyond unhealthy yeast ruining foam, some yeasts

beer in a more controlled manner, ensuring a better

even have the ability to enhance foam – lager yeasts

drinking experience throughout the whole pint. We’ll often

contain a gene called CFG1 (Carlsbergensis Foaming

see the evidence of a good foam on our glass of beer –

Gene). CFG1 is a mannoprotein (sugar-containing) on

the beer leaves behind traces of foam called lacing on

the surface of the yeast cell, which can “stick” to bubble

the glass with each sip.

surfaces and prevent them from draining, helping to stabilize foam. There are a couple other similar proteins in

The frothy details

ale yeast, but not much is known about them (yet)!

You lost me

T

here are many compounds present in and near beer which can be foam positive or negative to the beer. The main foam-relevant components of

beer are proteins, particularly two proteins called LTP1 and protein Z. This sounds complicated, but essentially LTP helps to form foam in the beer, while protein Z and

I

understand, this stuff gets complicated. Brewing science is a rabbit hole! Ultimately, we can boil all of this down to factors which are foam-negative, and

those which are foam positive, admitting the current

other grain-derived proteins help to stabilize the foam

limitations of science to explain everything that is

once it has been formed. The intricate balance between

happening.

different proteins and other molecules helps explain why

If we want to maximize foam quality in the brewery, we

we see so many different types of beer foam, from lacy

can taking what we’ve learned as an example. We could

and delicate to dense and rocky!

use a small amount of flaked grain in an all-malt grist,

All ingredients impact the quality of foam. For example,

mash using a step mash in short steps (just enough to

hop iso alpha acids have a big influence on foam

achieve conversion). We could also use a good dose of

quality. Hop suppliers have noticed this and have even

hops

developed specialized hop extract products which can

As you can see, this regimen can be quite flexible as to

aid foam stability such as tetra- and hexa-iso hop extract.

the beer style – this would work equally well for a saison

In general, higher foam stability can be achieved from

as it would for a lager! In fact, it might be even better with

beers with a higher wort protein and hop iso alpha acid

a lager yeast, since these yeasts naturally aid foaming. u

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February 2018

Brewers Journal

c l a s s ifi e d

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Norwich will host the Great British Beer Festival Winter at St Andrew's and Blackfriars' stunning medieval friary halls

06/02/19

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Beavertown & The Seven Deadly Sins Beavertown Brewery, London beavertownbrewery.co.uk 19/02/19

Great British Beer Festival Winter The Halls,, Norwich winter.gbbf.org.uk

66

February 2018

21/02/19 - 23/02/19

Craft Beer Rising The Old Truman Brewery, London craftbeerrising.co.uk 01/03/19 - 02/03/19

Friends & Family & Beer festival Upper Campfield Market, Manchester friendsandfamily.beer 14/03/19

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Brewers Journal

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