The Brewers Journal January~February 2022, iss 1 vol 8

THE MAGAZINE FOR THE PROFESSIONAL BREWING INDUSTRY

BREWERS

J O U R N A L

JANUARY~FEBRUARY 2022 | VOLUME 8, ISSUE 1 ISSN 2059-6669

DOUBLE-BARRELLED Firing on all cylinders in Reading, Berkshire

22 | GARRETT OLIVER: GET EVERYBODY IN THE ROOM

44 | FERGUS FITZGERALD: THE THINGS I’VE LEARNT IN BEER

58 | TERROIR: ITS ROLE IN YOUR BEVERAGE

ONWARDS AND UPWARDS

H

ello, and welcome to

Had the Brewers Congress and awards

the latest edition of The

been scheduled to take place a

Brewers Journal!

week later, it probably wouldn’t have

I want to start by thanking

happened. I am, of course, incredibly

everyone that took part

grateful we made it over the line. But I

and helped make our Brewers Congress

am also acutely aware of the impact this

and Brewers Choice Awards possible.

variant had on hospitality and consumer confidence during what is obviously an

Held at The Brewery in London last

incredibly-important time for business.

December, I am hugely grateful and thankful for the 400+ people from across

It should go without saying that via our

the world of beer that made it happen.

magazine, podcast and events we will

We started out as a publication that

continue to champion this fantastic

aimed to tell the stories of some of the

industry and the insanely-talented

1,200 UK breweries that existed in 2015.

people that call it home. Whether you’re

LEADER

in the brewhouse, beer sales, ingredients

brewersjournal.info

So to be running events that people

supply, kit manufacturing, distribution,

from across the UK, Europe, US and

branding or anything and every in-

beyond deem worthwhile is both surreal

between, we’ll always do what we can

and rewarding in equal measure. And

to give people a platform to share their

for anyone that has been to our Brewers

views, show how great they are, and to

Congress, you’ll know we have the

make themselves heard. As has been

excellent knack of choosing dates that

the case from our very first edition, if you

coincide with the most inclement of

want to get involved, please contact

weather.

me via email at tim@rebymedia.com, on Twitter @BrewJournal or on Instagram at

With that in mind, it was reassuring to

thebrewersjournal.

see that some things never change with Storm Barra descending on these isles

We start 2022 with our Brewers Lectures

just in time for our two-day event. This

in Leeds at North Brewing’s Springwell

coming hot on the heels of the Omicron

facility on the 23rd February and in

variant, which would swiftly start to take

Edinburgh in late March. Please keep

hold as December progressed.

an eye on lectures.brewersjournal.info for more information. As always, best of

A special thank you to our speakers

luck in everything that you do and I look

such as Charlie Johnson, Garrett Oliver,

forward to working with you in 2022!

Karl Trojan and Greg Zeschuk who went above and beyond with their PCR

Tim Sheahan

testing obligations to ensure they could

Editor

still take part. And also to our sponsors, exhibitors and attendees that travelled from overseas to play their very important roles in the event.

JANUARY~FEBRUARY 2022

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3

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JANUARY~FEBRUARY 2022

CONTENTS

Comments

15

Step change needed to address toxic workplace cultures in the brewing industry.

2022 trends for the cellar and beyond.

Garrett Oliver | In Conversation Speaking at our Brewers Congress, Garrett Oliver told us that you should never assume that you know more than the person sitting in front of you.

22

Trending | Climate Change At the end of 2021, The Midland and Southern Sections of the IBD held an Environmental Workshop at Nottingham University. Here Jennifer Tingay, the head brewer at Southbourne Ales, details her account of the day and why the impact of climate change affects us all.

32

Focus | East Sussex What makes the brewing scene in East Sussex so special? Here, Emma Inch speaks to some of the brewers that make up this rich beer tapestry.

48

Focus | Terroir Jeremy Clarkson’s beer is driving home the idea of terroir by using barley from his farm. While not the only one, few brewers do this with barley arguably often used as a commodity. But one whiskey distiller who wants to bring back terroir for all spirits and what we, as brewers, can learn.

58

Science | Fermentation How yeast pitching rates affect fermentation.

64

Sector | Canning The latest innovations and installations from across the canning sector.

67

53 Focus | Gas safety

The rules, regulations and procedures we can all follow to help create a safer brewhouse environment.

6

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JANUARY~FEBRUARY 2022

BREWERS JOURNAL

44 Fergus Fitzgerald

Adnam’s head of production on a quarter century in brewing and the lessons he’s learned along the way.

CONTACTS Tim Sheahan Editor tim@rebymedia.com +44 (0)1442 780 592 Velo Mitrovich Deputy Editor velo@rebymedia.com +44 (0)1442 780 591 Tim O’Rourke Technical Editor tim.orourke@rebymedia.com Josh Henderson Head of sales josh@rebymedia.com +44 (0)1442 780 594 Jon Young Publisher jon@rebymedia.com Reby Media 42 Crouchfield, Hemel Hempstead, Herts, HP1 1PA, UK

36 Double-Barrelled

A third birthday, capacity expansion, new beers and a growing team. How Reading’s Double-Barrelled march on.

26 Brewers Congress & Brewers Choice Awards 2021

The full lowdown on everything that went down at our flagship event in December 2021.

brewersjournal.info

SUBSCRIPTIONS The Brewers Journal is a published 1six times a year and mailed every January, March, May, July, September and November. Subscriptions can be purchased for six issues. Prices for single issue subscriptions or back issues can be obtained by emailing: subscribe@rebymedia.com

UK & IRELAND £29 INTERNATIONAL £49 The content of The Brewers Journal is subject to copyright. However, if you would like to obtain copies of an article for marketing purposes high-quality reprints can be supplied to your specification.

Please contact the advertising team for full details of this service. The Brewers Journal is printed at Manson Group, St Albans, UK.

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or any information storage or retrieval system, without the express prior written consent of the publisher. The Brewers Journal ISSN 2059-6650 is published bimonthly by Reby Media, 42 Crouchfield, Hemel Hempstead, Hertfordshire, HP1 1PA. Subscription records are maintained at Reby Media, 42 Crouchfield, Hemel Hempstead, Hertfordshire, HP1 1PA. The Brewers Journal accepts no responsibility for the accuracy of statements or opinion given within the Journal that is not the expressly designated opinion of the Journal or its publishers. Those opinions expressed in areas other than editorial comment may not be taken as being the opinion of the Journal or its staff, and the aforementioned accept no responsibility or liability for actions that arise therefrom.

JANUARY~FEBRUARY 2022

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7

NEWS

INDUSTRY RESPONDS TO SMALL BREWERS RELIEF CHANGES

SALT OPENS LONDON BREWERY

C

growth on a national scale, acquiring a

Craft brewery, SALT, is expanding and has extensive plans to continue this

AMRA and SIBA have responded to the publication of the Govern-

brewery in London.

ment’s Technical consultation response to Small Brewers Relief.

Known for its Yorkshire roots and tasty

One of the key changes noted in the response was to increase the

beers, SALT’s plans for expansion follow

50% threshold from the 2,100 hectolitres proposed initially to 2,500hl.

on from three years of unprecedented

However, a raft of small brewers producing between 2,500HL and

success for the brand, leading to SALT

5,000HL will face increased bills.

becoming a household name in the craft

SIBA Chief Executive James Calder and SIBA National Chairman Roy Allkin, said:

beer scene.

“After three years of deliberating, the Treasury has today announced far-reaching

Newly acquired brewery, SALT London,

changes to Small Breweries’ Relief (SBR) – at last providing some certainty for

based on White Hart Avenue in Green-

small brewers so they can plan for the future.

wich, will more than double the produc-

“It is welcome that the Treasury has listened to SIBA’s representations on behalf of

tion capacity of the SALT brand, pre-

small brewers, and the views of MPs from across the political divide, to increase

paring for the next phase of growth and

the 50% threshold from the proposed 2,100 hectolitres to 2,500hl.

rein-forcing their mission statement that

“While it is disappointing that some small brewers between 2,500 to 5,000hl will

the purpose of beer is to create pleasure.

have to contribute more in beer duty under the new system, our worst fears have

Speaking about the significant plans to

been averted and the rate is more manageable than was proposed in the consul-

expand down South, Managing Director

tation.

of SALT, Nadir Zairi, said: “This is a really

“The changes also remove the ‘cliff edges’ that hindered brewers in the past and

exciting move for SALT. We have maxed

sets out a path to growth and a workable framework for the future.”

out our capacity at SALT Beer Facto-

In the statement, Calder and Allkin said that these changes demonstrate the Treas-

ry North so the addition of a Southern

ury has “recog-nised the important role that SBR has served for the past 20 years”

production site will enable us to contin-

in levelling up the brewing sector, investing more in the scheme and expanding it

ue growing the distribution of our core

to include more breweries.

range.

“We must now carefully consider how these new policies sit within the wider

“Not only that, but it gives us the freedom

changes to the alcohol duty announced in the Budget and work through all the

to explore the limits of beer through our

implications to ensure that small brewers can compete against the Global giants

experimental Hexagon Project range.

that dominate the beer and cider sectors,” they added.

We have always had a desire to drive the

In a statement commenting on the Government’s changes, CAMRA Chairman Nik

brand forward, taking it nationally in order

Antona said: “Small brewers across the UK have been waiting months for today’s

to do more of what we do best – bringing

announcement, and now have some more certainty over how their tax bills will

people together through beer”

change in the coming years.

The acquisition includes two tap rooms

“With the bold changes to all alcohol duties proposed in the Budget, there is still

in the capital which will be rebranded

more detail that needs to be worked on.

as Salt craft + Pizza, forming part of their

“We are looking forward to working with the Treasury to ensure that the wider pro-

ongoing commitment to investment in

posals work for small brewers, and especially that the new draught beer duty rate

the area.

applies to containers of 20L and over – allowing for the smaller formats that small

The tap rooms, based at Market Yard and

and independent brewers most frequently supply draught beer in.

Royal Arsenal, will have a specially curat-

“From the announcement today, we are glad that the Treasury has made a conces-

ed menu of wood fired pizzas that visitors

sion on the 50% relief threshold, following representations from small brewers and

can enjoy whilst sipping on SALT’s latest

consumers who were worried about viability of small brewers and knock-on effects

beers, core range and carefully selected

on consumer choice under the previous pro-posals.

guest ales. There will also be cocktails,

“We understand that the changes announced today will protect around 70 of the

wines and spirits available.

smallest brewers from increased tax bills.

James Lawson, Founder of SALT, added:

“Sadly, this will still mean increased bills for those producing between 2,500HL and

“It’s always been an ambition to take our

5,000HL per year, but the additional changes to smooth the ‘cliff edge’ in the relief

beers to London, and what better way

taper should help small brew-ers grow more sustainably in future.

than having our own branded outlets in

“CAMRA will continue to campaign across a range of issues affecting small and

the capital.”

independent brewers.”

brewersjournal.info

JANUARY~FEBRUARY 2022

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9

NEWS

INCREASING NUMBER OF DRINKERS REGULARLY CHOOSE NO AND LOW

U

SIMPSONS MALT CERTIFIED B CORPORATION Simpsons Malt Limited has announced that it has achieved B Corporation® (or B CorpTM) status, joining a growing group of companies reinventing business by pursuing purpose as well as profit.

K drinkers increasingly choose low and no alcohol products all year

The fifth-generation, family-owned com-

round and not just for Dry January, the fourth annual online study

pany, which comprises a malting division

YouGov commissioned by the Portman Group has found.

(Simpsons Malt) and merchanting division

Almost one in three (32%) UK drinkers now ‘semi-regularly’* con-

(McCreath Simpson & Prentice), has been

sume low and no alcohol products compared to one in four (25%)

certified by B Lab®, the not-for- profit

in 2020. Furthermore, a fifth (20%) of those who have tried low and no alcohol say

organisation behind the B Corp move-

they are more likely to drink these products now compared to a year ago, almost

ment, as having met rigorous social and

double the number saying this in last year’s survey (11%).

environmental standards which repre-

Despite COVID-19 restrictions, the most popular reason for consumers who have

sent its commitment to goals outside of

tried low and no alcohol to drink these products continues to be ‘being able to

shareholder profit.

drive home from social events’ (chosen by 33% of respondents). Reducing the

The B Corp certification addresses the

possibility of health concerns or current medical reasons were also cited by 22% of

entirety of a business’ operations and

consumers.

covers five key impact areas of Govern-

The other main reason is to socialise without drinking excessively with 20% of

ance, Workers, Community, Environment

respondents, whilst 12% explicitly stated they currently alternated low and no prod-

and Customers. The certification process

ucts with regular strength alcohol to moderate their overall consumption.

is rigorous, with applicants required to

Furthermore, the survey shows that over a quarter (26%) of those who have tried

reach a benchmark score of more than

low and no alcohol say that their subsequent weekly alcohol has decreased since

80, while providing evidence of socially

they first tried it.

and environmentally responsible prac-

These results indicate that low and no alcohol could be an effective tool for people

tices relating to energy supplies, waste

looking to moderate drinking, often whilst at home with COVID-19 remaining an

and water use, worker compensation,

ongoing concern.

diversity and corporate transparency.

It should be noted that alcohol drinkers are the main buyers of non-alcoholic prod-

To complete the certification, Simpsons

ucts using them as alternatives to alcohol. Well over half (58%) of non-drinkers have

Malt Limited has legally embedded its

never even tried a low/no product and just 14% are semi-regular* consumers.

commitment to purpose beyond profit in

Across the UK there were increases in the number of low and no consumers.

its articles of association.

Welsh drinkers top the chart as most likely to be semi-regular* low/no drinkers,

With a B Impact Score of 89.6, Simpsons

with a large jump to a third (36%) of respondents compared to less than a quarter

Malt Limited is believed to be only the

(22%) in 2020. English consumers come in at 32% up from 25%. 29% of Scottish con-

second malting company in the world –

sumers are semi-regular* drinkers, up from 27%.

and first in Europe – to have achieved B

In response to the figures, Matt Lambert, CEO of the Portman Group – the alcohol

Corp status.

social responsibility body and marketing regulator said: “As these positive findings

Simpsons Malt Limited is now part of a

show, there has been a big increase in drinking low and no during the pandemic,

community of 4,000 businesses globally

indicating that many UK drinkers have looked to moderate their alcohol consump-

who have certified as a B Corp.

tion by swapping with non-alcoholic options.

Richard Simpson, vice chairman of

“These figures show the fruits of large industry innovation and investment into the

Simpsons Malt Limited, said: “Following

sector over the past decade to provide consumers with an array of lower alcohol

a long and rigorous assessment process,

options.”

we’re absolutely thrilled to have received

All figures, unless otherwise stated, are from YouGov Plc. The 2021 survey was

confirmation of our B Corp status.

conducted by YouGov on behalf of the Portman Group. Fieldwork was undertaken

At the heart of our collective ambition is

on 9th-10th December 2021 and involved a total sample size of 2,079 adults. The

to sustainably grow our family business

survey was carried out online. The figures have been weighted and are representa-

for future generations and the five impact

tive of all UK adults (aged 18+).

areas of the B Corp assessment frame-

In the 2020 survey, the total sample size was 2100 adults. Fieldwork was undertak-

work gives us the ideal platform to be

en between 14th – 15th December 2020. The survey was carried out online. The

able to do that.”

figures have been weighted and are representative of all UK adults (aged 18+).

10

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JANUARY~FEBRUARY 2022

BREWERS JOURNAL

NEWS

B

ig Smoke Brew Co. has appointed Jenn Merrick as its managing director.

The new appointment is the culmination of the company’s recent expansion and cements a period of rapid growth for Big Smoke, with the brewery doubling in size at the end of 2021, expanding its footprint to 10,000 sq ft, and upping annual brewing capacity to 3.5M pints.

Jenn Merrick is a leading expert in the UK craft brewing industry, with a wealth of experience in brand expansion, brewing, brewery operations, and building outstanding businesses.

BIG SMOKE BREW CO. APPOINT JENN MERRICK AS MANAGING DIRECTOR

Richard Craig, founder and director of Big Smoke Brew Co. said: “We are thrilled that Jenn has joined the Big Smoke family – her experience, expertise and personality are the perfect fit for our company and her appointment represents a huge leap forward for our team, and an epic start to 2022!”

UK HOP OIL FIRM TOASTS 44% INCREASE IN TURNOVER

team to operate from its headquarters in Tonbridge, Kent. The new warehouse has allowed for 500 pallet spaces, supported by investments in stock control systems, and will allow for shorter lead times for its increasing export sales to markets including the USA and Asia.

Alongside the physical space it operates

Totally Natural Solutions, a UK-based

from, Totally Natural Solutions has also

company which creates natural and sus-

significantly expanded its team with the

tainable hop oils for the brewing industry,

appointment of nine new members of

is celebrating a successful year of growth

staff in 2021 and a further two joining

which saw turnover increase 44% from

in January. These roles cover various

£2.7 million in 2020 to £3.9 million in 2021.

aspects of the business including sales,

The increase in turnover comes alongside its work to support brewers through a difficult year, helping them cut trans-

TNS managing director: Colin Wilson

port, storage and raw material costs

sensory, marketing and the warehouse.

Strategic appointments such as Dr Pedro Oliveira, a seasoned brewing and beverage professional with previous experi-

through supply of its efficient hop prod-

gaged in discussions around how to use

ence working at Kerry Foods and Sym-

ucts and investing in the wider education

hop oils to increase their business and

rise, who joined as Technical Director,

of the brewing community.

product offering to overcome ongoing

and Gill Fisher, previously from Campden

The company, which was established in

challenges faced by the industry.

BRi, who strengthens the understanding

2013 by Managing Director Colin Wilson,

Part of Totally Natural Solutions’ overall

of hop applications and sensory within

has seen strong growth in its zero-alco-

investment strategy to grow and develop

the team, will support future growth

hol range, HopZero, which is designed to

its services to further support brewing

aspirations.

help brewers create quality alcohol-free

needs, in July this year the company in-

The hop oil firm has also demonstrated

products in a sustainable way.

vested in a new 6,500 square foot ware-

ongoing commitment to investing in

Across the business sales have grown

house. The new space is supporting the

the future of the wider brewing industry

significantly, as brewers experiment with

growth of its patented natural hop extract

through learning and research develop-

more efficient brewing methods and en-

business and allows for an expanded

ment.

brewersjournal.info

JANUARY~FEBRUARY 2022

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11

NEWS

NEW COLOUR LABEL PRINTER BOASTS ‘BIG INK’

mm (24”) long can be printed. Print speed is up to 114 mm (4.5”) per second.

Each separate CMY tank holds 60 ml of ink. Pre-primed, user-replaceable printheads have another 42 ml of ink, for a total of 222 ml ‘out of the box’ ink. Both

MUNTONS MANAGER ACES INDUSTRY EXAM

DTM Print has introduced the launched

dye and pigment models are available.

of its new LX3000e Colour Label Printer.

Replacement ink tanks are easy to install

LX3000e, manufactured by Primera

without further priming for uninterrupted

A Sales Manager from Muntons, the

Technology, Inc., is the latest addition

printing. The Big Ink system on LX3000e

global manufacturer and supplier of

to the well-known LX-Series of desktop

uses latest technology dye and pigment

brewing and distilling malts and malt-

full-colour label printers and uses the

inks optimised for brightness, durability,

ed ingredients, has been recognised

same proven and reliable platform as

and optical density. The latter is particu-

for achieving the country’s highest

the popular LX910e Colour Label Printer,

larly high for LX3000e’s process black,

result in his industry exams.

but with the addition of large, individual

resulting in the blackest black ever

Joe Fifield, brewing and distilling malt

ink tanks and a reusable thermal inkjet

released by Primera in a CMY printer.

sales manager, who works for the

printhead.

Process black has many advantages for

Stowmarket based maltster, complet-

The ink system is being called ‘Big Ink’ to

labels over the separate carbon black

ed the General Certificate of Malting

differentiate it from other Primera models.

inks used by other colour label printers,

(GCM) last year and achieved a credit

Print quality is exceptional with native

including better water resistance, com-

grade.

1200 dpi resolution with a maximum print

patibility with a broader range of speci-

The malting industry’s trade asso-

resolution of 1200 dpi x 4800 dpi.

ality label media, and more resistance to

ciation, the Maltsters’ Association of

Labels up to 210 mm (8.25”) wide and 610

smearing on high gloss media.

Great Britain (MAGB), named Joe as its highest-scoring exam candidate

NEW BEER CLARIFICATION SYSTEM AIMS TO IMPROVE QUALITY

for 2020. This led to The Macpherson John Jepson, commercial director at

Memorial Trust nominating him for

Envirogen explained: “PureSep MF 600

the Association’s prestigious award,

is built on the back of our PureFlow

the Macpherson Quaich.

filtration system and the company’s long

The Macpherson Memorial Trust was

legacy of providing total water treatment

set up in memory of well-loved and

and process filtration solutions to the

respected maltster Tim Macpherson,

food and beverage industry through the

who along with his wife Diedre (also

PureSep MF range.

known as Mouse), and their youngest

Envirogen has launched PureSep MF

“Recently, we have seen a clear need

daughter Iona, was tragically killed

600: a single-step, membrane filtration

for a dedicated clarification system that

during a terrorist attack on board an

solution specifically designed to improve

meets the brewing industry’s unique

Air Lanka aircraft in 1986.

beer quality and consistency while re-

challenges. Years of installing, optimising

The Trust supports those who work

ducing costs and waste streams.

and commissioning filtration systems

in the malt, brewing and distilling in-

Clarification is a critical, latter stage

across a wide range of processes have

dustries to apply for financial awards

of beer, wine, cider and vinegar man-

culminated in the development of the

for personal development, such as

ufacturing processes, it’s here that

PureSep MF 600.

research and travel. Since 2017, the

suspended solids and micro-organisms

“This modular, skid-based system meets

Trust has additionally recognised

are removed to reduce haze, produce a

the flow rates demanded in this fast-

study achievements by awarding the

standardised taste profile and improve

paced industry while delivering higher

Macpherson Quaich to outstand-

shelf life.

quality standards and considerable cost

ing GCM candidates. Ordinarily, the

However, many manufacturers are still

savings.”

Macpherson Memorial Trust presents

relying on traditional two-stage clarifi-

PureSep MF 600 is a single-step beer

the candidate who has achieved the

cation systems, adding diatomaceous

membrane filtration (BMF) system, using

highest GCM result, with the special

earth to the product and removing yeast

unique Envi-BMF hollow-fibre mem-

cup, at the MAGB’s annual luncheons.

and other larger particles through sheet

branes to remove micro-organisms and

However, because of COVID-19 safe-

filtration.

suspended solids, in place of a two-step

ty measures, Joe had to wait a year to

These manual methods can introduce

diatomaceous earth and sheet filtration

receive the accolade.

inconsistencies, create large waste

solution.

Speaking about the award, Joe said:

streams and require labour-intensive

The resulting clarified beer has greater

“I’m honoured to have received the

cleaning protocols, all of which can

stability and a more standardised profile,

Macpherson Quaich; it’s a tremen-

increase operating costs and reduce

helping manufacturers to achieve con-

dous achievement for me and it’s

yields.

sistently high and repeatable quality.

something I’m really proud of.”

12

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JANUARY~FEBRUARY 2022

BREWERS JOURNAL

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05/02/2020 14:16

COMMENT

2022 TRENDS FOR THE CELLAR AND BEYOND

JEFF SINGER FROM BEER PIPER HIGHLIGHTS SOME OF THE INDUSTRY TRENDS HE EXPECTS TO DOMINATE IN 2022.

brewersjournal.info

T

he world has changed since

incredible people have met the year’s

the arrival of Covid 19 and

challenges with tenacity and resilience

many of us are feeling the

yet again. The industry has changed in

effects in our personal lives

many ways, but we have started to look

and our careers.

collectively at 2022 to anticipate and

Thankfully there are organisations to turn

meet the changes coming up that will

to, such as The Licensed Trade Charity.

affect the way we operate.

The Charity has been supporting drinks trade workers and their families for over

Challenges aside, it’s an exciting time

200 years and in the last 18 months has

for the sector in many ways and, being

seen a dramatic increase in the numbers

at the coalface of hospitality, Beer Piper

seeking help.

is looking forward to seeing how the

Established in 1793 by people in the

industry evolves and rises up over the 12

trade for people in the trade, the Charity

months ahead. Here are the trends that

supports anyone who has manufactured,

we have our eye on...

distributed, sold or served alcohol.

It has expanded its services in line with

LOW AND NO BEERS

demand and today offers a range of free practical and emotional support in

Sales of booze free beer have rocketed

areas including finance, housing, health,

over the last year, and the sober

education, mental wellbeing and training.

movement is gaining momentum due to

We’re here to support people in times

an increased focus on health.

of need. In the 1700s that often meant

This year, after figuring out the yeast

helping those in dire situations, but today

conundrum and establishing the best

we really want to encourage people to

temperature to cellar at, we have seen

turn to us when something is niggling

big brands such as Heineken and Stella

them, so we can support them before it

Artois announce moves to producing

escalates.

alcohol free beers on tap and many

2021 has been a year of ups and downs

pubs and chains are clamouring to get

for hospitality, but the industry and its

in on the act. This big move is good

JANUARY~FEBRUARY 2022

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15

COMMENT

BREWERY TAP BARS

news; the quality of lo and no beers has

of single-use plastic across the

increased dramatically in recent years so

establishment.

we believe that these beers should be

Waste management is also a hot topic.

Before the pandemic struck the UK in

looked after in the cellar in the same way

A pre-pandemic study by Beer Piper

2020, SIBA’s Craft Beer report noted

as their alcoholic counterparts.

found that the average pub wastes 20

that there had been an increase in

pints a week with inefficient line cleaning,

independent brewery taprooms across

Cellaring lo and no alcohol beers well

costing them £74 - and 40 million pints

the UK.

will help to preserve the passion that was

are thrown away each year needlessly.

As we slowly emerge into the new age, we foresee an increase in brewery taps

poured into developing the drinks by their producers, and ensuring beer lines

With this in mind, one of the most

as more and more craft beer brands get

are sparkling clean is always critical to

distinctive features of Beer Piper’s

in on the On Trade action. Locally to Beer

keep the quality tip top.

market-leading wet wash beer line

Piper HQ in Greater Manchester, there

We expect to see more craft brewers

cleaning systems is the Dispense Line

is a huge appetite for locally-produced

moving into this arena, and more and

Beer function, which gives landlords and

craft beers and the brands and brewers

more pubs introducing at least one

bar managers the option of saving much

in the city and wider region show huge

alcohol free action on the pumps when

of the valuable beer that - until now -

amounts of innovation, collaboration and

technology enables it. This will present

simply gets poured down the drain when

creativity. All of those things are great

a new challenge for the cellar and

doing manual line cleans.

news for the industry and for punters who

backroom, but it’s one that is crucial for

The actual savings to be made will

are eager to try new experiences.

long term success.

naturally depend on the number of lines

CREATIVE WAYS TO SUSTAINABILITY

and the length of the beer line from

Drinking local ales and beers also taps

cellar to bar. However, if you calculate

into the growing eco awareness in British

how much beer you currently pull-off

consumers too; craft beer brands are

and throw away when cleaning your beer

produced locally and many small brands

The spotlight on sustainability and eco

lines via the traditional manual method,

are well poised to embrace sustainability

issues continues to gain momentum as

Beer Piper systems save landlords and

with reduced packaging, recyclability

people are becoming more and more

bar managers up to at least 75% by

front of mind, solar-powered breweries

conscious of issues such as waste,

selling it rather than throwing it down the

and much more.

carbon footprint and the plastic problem.

drain. Some of Beer Piper’s customers

COP26 shone a harsh spotlight on the

even claim to save 100% of their beer

Although the pandemic has had a huge

issues involved and the subsequent

that would have been wasted otherwise.

impact on customer behaviour in many

media coverage and sustainability moves

Great news for your pocket and the

ways, the increased focus on cleanliness

by big business has inspired people to

environment.

and hygiene is something that simply will not fade.

make changes for the better - building on the resolutions made at the start of

Anecdotally, we have seen huge

Doing the bare minimum or just enough

the year, when a study by EON revealed

amounts of love for great cask ale since

is simply not good enough anymore, and

that 89% of Brits wanted to be more

the summer months. In the midst of

despite being focused on sustainability

environmentally friendly in 2021.

the Covid19 lockdowns, Brits turned to

and great quality serves, customers also

premium serves from the off trade in

need to know that the on trade is doing

With bars, hotels and restaurants all

an attempt to recreate the hospitality

all they can to keep them as safe as

looking for ways to be more sustainable

experience at home. But a great pint

possible.

to meet their own CSR goals as well as

of cask ale simply cannot be recreated

attracting more customers, managers

outside of the pub or taproom.

Rather than using catch-all cleaning

and landlords are giving more head

We have a lot of pride for cask in the

products, we predict a bigger focus

space to recycling, saving waste and

UK, so we predict that the sector will

on venues using bespoke cleaning

opting for more eco-friendly products. It’s

start picking itself up after the decline

products for different jobs both behind

a smart business move, too.

in sales this year. As an industry - and

the bar and front of house. Our sister

At Beer Piper, we work closely with pub

as a country - we need to reignite

firm Chemisphere UK has seen sales

landlords and chain managers, and

the passion for this great traditional

increases in products such as Tap & Keg

green issues are firmly on the agenda in

category. This can only be done if we

Sanitiser Spray, Liquid Renovate which

the regular day-to-day. Those who act

pull together to ensure that cask served

provides a powerful weekly drinking

responsibly towards the environment,

at the bar is always of tip top quality,

glass renovation on top of your usual

in our opinion, will be the longer term

is communicated and marketed to

warewashing products, and also antiviral

winners as customers take note of

customers well at point of purchase, and

and antibacterial foggers which can help

recycled products, clearly signposted

is always presented perfectly.

give staff members and customers peace

green policies, the stocking of planet-

of mind in your venue.

friendly brands and the elimination

16

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JANUARY~FEBRUARY 2022

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COMMENT

CHANGES NEEDED TO ADDRESS TOXIC WORKPLACE CULTURES

THERE ARE SOME KEY ACTIONS EMPLOYERS IN THE BREWING INDUSTRY CAN IMPLEMENT TO CREATE AND EMBED A MORE INCLUSIVE AND DIVERSE CULTURE AND CONSEQUENTLY A HAPPIER, PSYCHOLOGICALLY SAFER AND MORE PRODUCTIVE WORKFORCE, EXPLAINS DANIEL STANDER, AN EMPLOYMENT LAWYER AT VEDDER PRICE LLP. brewersjournal.info

T

he continuing fallout from

the bulwark in achieving this modern

the debacle surrounding

standard.

Mikkeller and its much-

As in every aspect of life, things go

criticized response to

wrong from time to time and for brewers

allegations of gender

who do not match good intent with

bullying and sexual harassment has kept

steadfast commitment to dealing with

the spotlight firmly on toxic workplace

inappropriate conduct or behaviours in

culture in the brewing industry.

their organisations, the reality is that the

Mikkeller may have been in the firing

reckoning in the public square of Twitter

line on this occasion, however, reports of

and other social media can be quick and

bullying, harassment and discrimination

unrelenting.

within the industry at large will come as no surprise to many, following the well-

Whilst in previous years employers may

documented “culture of fear” complained

have sought to handle internal issues

of at BrewDog together with a slew of

with an eye squarely on the potential

personal stories shared by Brienne Allan

risk of claims being brought by the

of Notch Brewery on Instagram.

complainant, in 2021, they need to be

With the advent of various movements

alive to the potential wider scrutiny from

in the culture at large, there has been

stakeholders and the public at an early

a huge shift in how workers, investors

stage, which means the reputational

and the public expect business to be

stakes could not be higher.

conducted.

Going forward, there are some key

Accountability, transparency and

actions employers in the brewing

authentic actions designed to earn

industry can implement to create and

trust, build respect and drive forward

embed a more inclusive and diverse

a welcoming, inclusive culture are

culture and consequently a happier,

JANUARY~FEBRUARY 2022

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19

COMMENT psychologically safer and more productive workforce.

Adopt a Code of Conduct There has been a lot of discussion concerning breweries drawing up codes of conduct which set out a business’s core values and set standards on the type of behaviour it expects within its workplace and the implications for those who breach the code. A suggestion was made prior to Mikkeller’s 2021 beer festival by eight UK-based breweries who joined together seeking to influence a change in the industry’s culture that they should “lay the groundwork to draw up a code of conduct for the industry which sets clear obligations on breweries going forward”.

Although this did not materialise given the octet’s about-face 24 hours later by withdrawing from the festival altogether and apologising after a social media

living, breathing thing, not simply another

whistleblowing disclosures will be made

backlash, it may be that an industry-wide

HR policy which is left to go dusty on the

going forwards, for example, by hotline or

code of conduct which each brewer

bookshelf.

by digital platform.

Businesses who work to embed their

Put wellbeing on company’s risk register

must commit to its aims and standards would be welcome.

values across the employment lifecycle,

It took a global pandemic to do it,

In the meantime, for smaller breweries

starting with recruitment and induction

but mental health and wellbeing has

who might not currently have the means

procedures through to appraisals and

rocketed to the top of employer’s

for a legal/HR function, they may

internal promotion decisions, stand to

agendas. At the same time, a

participate by joining the “Brave Noise”

benefit from a workforce that is engaged

recent study has found that two in

global beer collaboration and drawing

and committed to the success of the

five employees have experienced

from the code of conduct.

organisation as a team.

problematic behaviour, such as bullying,

A key aspect of removing the toxicity

harassment or discrimination at work,

In addition, breweries could adapt

from a workplace culture is to allow

with 42% confirming that ‘toxic workplace

Mikkeller’s recent action plan (freely

individuals to report concerns regarding

culture’ has affected their mental health.

available on their website and well worth

the actions of others within the

a look) for their own business to foster a

brewery, without fear of retaliation. The

The economic impact of presiding over

better workplace culture.

whistleblowing landscape in the UK is

poor mental health has been reported

Temperature test and embed values

developing fast, and many employers are

to cost UK businesses up to £45 billion

Employers should not shy away from

looking for ways to drive more effective

a year – this includes absenteeism and

being open to criticism and acknowledge

reporting, and to signpost this effectively

presenteeism issues which arise through

there will always be ways to improve and

internally.

an unchecked toxic culture.

surveys (or soliciting informal feedback)

A well drafted procedure accompanied

As a result, by any economic

can help a business understand whether

by regular trainings to managers will help

assessment, it literally pays to treat

there are issues within pockets of the

enable employers to investigate and deal

wellbeing as an urgent matter for an

business or if they are more widespread.

properly and sensitively with allegations

employer’s risk register and to work

of wrongdoing.

at embedding a psychologically safer

build a better business. Carrying out staff

working environment from the outset

Welcoming feedback from the workforce and showing willingness to take

With changes to the legal landscape

which builds in preventative measures

meaningful action on problems which

on the horizon, employers should

to help employees build up their mental

arise is an important feature of helping

review and update their whistleblowing

fitness so they can be better prepared

break down any toxicity in the workplace.

compliance to ensure it is fit for

for the long-term, rather than allowing

Equally, the values which a brewery sets

purpose and that the fundamentals

issues to build up until the damage has

out in its code of conduct should be a

are in place, including considering how

been done.

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GARRETT OLIVER

GET EVERYBODY IN THE ROOM

GARRETT OLIVER, THE BREWMASTER AT BROOKLYN BREWERY, HAS SEEN THAT PEOPLE CAN SURPRISE YOU. DURING OUR BREWERS CONGRESS, HELD AT THE BREWERY, LONDON, IN DECEMBER 2021, HE DELIVERED THE CLOSING ADDRESS IN WHICH HE TOLD US THAT YOU SHOULD NEVER ASSUME THAT YOU KNOW MORE THAN THE PERSON SITTING IN FRONT OF YOU. THAT WE ALL SHOULD BE MORE INCLUSIVE, AND TO HAVE THE COURAGE TO PUT OURSELVES IN FRONT OF PEOPLE WHO DON’T LOOK LIKE US AND MAYBE HAVEN’T HEARD ABOUT OUR BEER. WHY? BECAUSE THEY COULD BE YOUR FUTURE FANS.

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JANUARY~FEBRUARY 2022

T

he last time I was next-

‘Well, what beers do you like?’

door in the other room, The Porter Tun room, was

‘Well, we don’t really like beer. We drink

1994. It was for The British

Coors Light when we have to.’

Guild of Beer Writers IPA

conference. All the great and good were

‘But then why are you here?

out there in The Porter Tun room, people from all the great British breweries.

‘We thought we’d meet some guys…’

However I was somewhat timorous, only having been in the business for about five

There’s a lady in the back, she looks

years at that point.

about eighty and she’s got blue hair, you

But I had a keg of IPA that I brought with

know, like that blue rinse and there’s

me. I took it on the plane as my luggage.

another guy he looks even older. And I’m

It was a mini keg, a five US gallon jobbie

wondering what is he doing here?

about 20 litres, and it looked exactly like a bomb. British Airways said, ‘alright, put a tag on it’ and they sent it around the

WHO THE HELL DO YOU THINK YOU ARE?

carousel.

So... things have changed. And when I

Some of these people don’t look like

showed up with a 6.8%, 60 IBU heavily

the people I was expecting. I get to the

dry-hopped IPA everyone in the room

end of this tasting where I think I don’t

said, ‘Well, that’s very cute, but no one’s

know if you guys are really gonna like

ever gonna drink anything like that’.

these beers but I’m going to try to explain them to you. And the thing that I really

But 27 years later, and I’m back.

discovered over time is, first of all, when the four ladies left at the end they said

You know, we’ve seen a great many

‘we liked this one, this one, this one and

changes over these years. Some things

this one’. All of the biggest, boldest, most

have changed and some have very much

interesting things on the menu. The

stayed the same.

lady with the blue rinse told me how much she loves Imperial Stouts, and the

So I want to share a few thoughts that

older guy in the back said ‘I haven’t had

have come to me over 32 years or so

something like this in 30 or 40 years.

of brewing and I’m ashamed to tell you

‘What are you talking about?’, I replied.

how long it took me to learn this next thing.

He said: ‘I was stationed in Belgium after World War Two and we used to drink

I used to give public beer tastings where

all the Trappist beers and I haven’t had

‘Garrett Oliver would teach you ‘Beer

anything like this such a long time. It’s so

101’. I’d look at what I was planning to do,

great for you to bring this back.’

so I thought I’m going to put a smoked beer like Schlenkerla up there and then

And what occurred to me is: ‘Who the hell

serious Lambic like Hanssens Gueze. And

do you think you are?’

then I would look at the crowd who came in. And there’s these four women, maybe

Who the hell do you think you are that

they’re about 20, and I’m asking:

you know more than the person sitting in front of you. That you know that you

BREWERS JOURNAL

INTERVIEW

What people really actually want is for you to have the respect to show them the thing that you love,” Garrett Oliver

have better taste, and that your life

said ‘I didn’t really like this’ and they told

experience is somehow more interesting,

me why didn’t they didn’t like it. But that’s

and relevant.

awesome, because liking everything is called having no taste. You know, you’re

You’re wrong. You’re wrong….

not supposed to like everything. I like these things, and I’m going to show you

You don’t have better taste than the

these things but people enjoy the fact

general public. And you don’t necessarily

that I trusted them to put this ridiculously

know more than anybody else sitting in

smoky beer, or this very complex Gueze

the room with you, because you don’t

in front of them. And that’s what most

know them. What people really actually

people really want. They want your

want is for you to have the respect to

respect, as well as just giving them the

show them the thing that you love.

thing that you know they want, because people don’t know what they want. If I

And then they have an opportunity to

had asked what everybody wanted, for

walk through a little door and on the

the last 30 years, I wouldn’t still be here.

other side of that door, they may find a better life. This is the thing that we do.

I think you need to brew what you want,

Somebody played your a Coaltrane

and then put it in front of people in a

record for the first time and you fell in

respectful fashion. And part of that is that

love with jazz. Somebody took you to a

we all expect the same people to be in

football game and you fell in love with

the room all the time. Well, if you do it

football. It’s just nothing but a chance.

right, you will not see the same people in

But when you don’t give people the

the room all the time.

chance they can’t respect you.

People came up to me at that tasting and

brewersjournal.info

You’ll see people who don’t look like

JANUARY~FEBRUARY 2022

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23

INTERVIEW you. Because, it turns out that everybody

the precalculus course, and the physics

really likes beer. You know, you go to

course, or whatever else’.

China, and you’ll be told that people in China don’t really like bitter beers. And

And sure enough, they’re booked

then you look up what the Chinese craft

into Master Brewer for UC Davis and I

brewers are drinking, and what their

sign that cheque for $24,000 to send

customers are drinking, and you find

somebody to school. Why? Because

that everybody likes the same good

even I’m requiring two to three years of

things; everywhere. I’ve been to African-

experience, or one of these courses.

American beer festivals where you had

Well, guess what, if there’s nobody in

3,000 black people, just as geeky as

the brewhouse of colour, then where are

anybody in this room, crying, they were

you going to get two to three years of

literally crying because they’re happy to

experience? That’s Catch 22. There are no

see each other. Because they were not in

people. Well, you could take this course.

this room, they’re not in that room, they’re not in most of our rooms because they’ve

But, can you?

never been invited. Nobody ever showed up in their neighbourhoods to ask them,

People of colour in the United States

to show them and to talk to them, to

have 10% of the family assets as

invite them anywhere, to anything.

European Americans. There’s almost nobody who can pay that fee for the

In the United States we’d rather sell hard

course. They can pass the prerequisite

seltzer. Stuff that we never want to drink,

for precalculus but they can’t get into

never wanted to make, than talk to the

the room, they can’t get in the room. So

other 50% of Americans who are our

here’s another thing to think about when

neighbours. It never occurred to us, that

you are gentrifying a neighbourhood. You

we’d rather do this and sell it to the same

you don’t have to apologise for starting

people that we already know. Why? So

your brewery where you can start it. But

we don’t have to take a little step to the

you could look harder than we generally

left and do something a little different.

have in the neighbourhood to see who

There are a lot of people in this room

could work there, who could work their

who have had a lot of courage. You’ve

way up. Send people to school, if that’s

had a lot of courage to throw away,

what it takes, as there’s a lot of smart

whatever you thought you’re going do

people everywhere.

I hope we’ll all have the same kind of courage to go out and put ourselves in front of people who don’t look like us and haven’t heard about our beer,” Garrett Oliver

that was going make money.

And there are a lot of people everywhere

YOU FOOLS

who would really like to discover what it is that we do. That’s actually good news

I always like the term ‘You fools’ because

because people you know, right now,

it’s, you know, gender neutral and it

they’re gonna get to my age, and we

applies to everybody and it bounces

don’t drink as much. Well...some of us.

back on me, too. I threw away my film

So you’ve got to bring in new people and

degree and jumped into an abyss. A lot

they are going to hopefully be diverse.

of us in this room have done it, and I

They’re going to hopefully be of all

hope that we’ll all have the same kind of

genders, they’re going to hopefully be of

courage to go out and put ourselves in

all orientations. They’re going to hopefully

front of people who don’t look like us and

be of all colours, if you want to have a

haven’t heard about our beer because,

great business and more importantly, if

it turns out that, they’re your future fans,

you want to have a really good time.

or they could be. Now some of you know that in the United States, we’ve started

If you want to have a really good time,

the Michael James Jackson Foundation

get everybody in the room. Not just some

for Brewing and Distilling. We are sending

of the people, not the same people that

people of colour to brewing school and

you already know, but get everybody in

it turns out, these guys show up, and

the room.

when you go looking for them they’ll tell you ‘No problem, I’m gonna pass

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JANUARY~FEBRUARY 2022

BREWERS JOURNAL

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CONGRESS

A NIGHT TO REMEMBER

THE BREWERS CONGRESS AND BREWERS CHOICE AWARDS TOOK PLACE IN DECEMBER 2021, ATTRACTING MORE THAN 400 FIGURES FROM ACROSS THE WORLD OF BEER. HERE’S THE LOWDOWN ON BOTH EVENTS.

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M

ore than 400 industry

of the Year, New Beer of the Year, Best

professionals

Branding, Beer of the Year, Brewer of the

descended upon The

Year, Brewery of the Year, Young Brewer

Brewery in London last

of the Year, Global Ambassador Award

month for The Brewers

and the Lifetime Achievement Award.

Congress and Brewers Choice Awards.

Tim Sheahan, editor of The Brewers

Held over the 7th and 8th December, the

Journal, commented: “Following a

event commenced with the 2021 Brewers

challenging 18 months, it was incredibly

Choice Awards where Five Points

gratifying to be able to celebrate the

Brewing Company, The Kernel founder

very best in brewing. The standard of

Evin O’Riordain, Duration Brewing, Garrett

entries was predictably very high and

Oliver, Lakes Brew Co, Aaron McClure of

everyone that was shortlisted and won

Sharp’s Brewery, Mondo Brewing, and

should be suitably proud. A big thank you

Vocation’s Matthew Howgate all picked

to everyone for taking part and to our

up accolades.

sponsors in AEB, Lallemand, Rankin, SSV,

The evening kicked off with a cocktail

Totally Natural Solutions, and Thomas

reception before guests settled down

Fawcett for helping make it all possible.”

for dinner where there was a wealth of great beer on offer from Mondo, Five

Taking place the following day was

Points, Northern Monk, Duration Brewing,

the annual Brewers Congress. Hosted

Signature Brew, Sharp’s, Fuller’s and

by Melissa Cole and John Keeling, it

Vocation. And before guests danced the

featured a comprehensive programme

night away, we recognised New Brewery

of talks and panel discussions as well as

BREWERS CHOICE AWARDS WINNERS New Beer of the Year | Turtles All The Way Down by Duration Brewing Supported by Rankin Young Brewer of the Year | Aaron McClure, Sharp’s Brewery Supported by AEB Brewing New Brewery of the Year | Duration Brewing Supported by Totally Natural Solutions Beer of the Year | Machina by Mondo Brewer of the Year | Matthew Howgate, Vocation Brewery Supported by SSV Ltd Best Branding | Lakes Brew Co Brewery of the Year | Five Points Brewing Company Supported by Lallemand Global Ambassador Award | Garrett Oliver Lifetime Achievement Award | Evin O’Riordain Supported by Thomas Fawcett

BREWERS JOURNAL

BREWERS CONGRESS REVIEW a fully-fledged trade hall showcasing 40 industry manufacturers and suppliers.

Delivering the keynote was Greg Zeschuk, the founder of Edmonton, Alberta’s Blind Enthusiasm. Previously the head of a video game developer that employed over 1500 individuals at seven studios across the world, he shared his experiences on building teams.

Derek Bates, co-founder and head brewer of Norfolk’s Duration Brewing delivered a talk on leaving a legacy while leaving no trace before Aaron McClure, the head brewer at Sharp’s Brewery spoke on the idea that growth is more than just volume.

Concluding the session, the trio were joined by Georgina Young, brewing director of St Austell and Danny Tapper, the founder of Beak Brewery for a panel discussion where they shared their expertise on managing growth.

Prior to the start of session two, the trade hall opened for business boasting a wealth of diverse businesses from inand-around the world of beer including the day’s Gold sponsors AEB Brewing, Clearmark, Lallemand, QCL, SSV Limited and Yakima Chief Hops.

The day’s second session was opened

by Charlotte Cook, the head brewer at Coalition Brewing, who leveraged her recent dissertation to talk in detail on sustainability of hop product usage.

Following Charlotte was Charlie Johnson who is founder, co-owner, and brewer of Ronin Fermentation Project based in Northern California. Charlie, who has a raft of experience working with Koji, talked on adjuncts and experimental brewing.

Jason Little of Yakima Chief Hops spoke passionately on hop survivability in brewing while Belinda Jennings and Moyra Williams of Holchem aka The Chemical Sisters, called on their rich pool of knowledge to speak about hygiene in the brewery environment.

The session was closed with a passionate

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BREWERS JOURNAL

BREWERS CONGRESS REVIEW

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BREWERS CONGRESS REVIEW

defence of cask beer in a panel

2010 the brewery celebrated its 600th

He told us that you should never

discussion that featured Alice Batham

anniversary.

assume that you know more than the person sitting in front of you. That we all

of Batham’s, Matt Clarke of Lakes Brew Co, Sharp’s Aaron McClure and Georgina

Ruth Mitchell of Elusive Brewing shared

should be more inclusive, and to have

Young of St Austell.

her experiences on how we can use

the courage to put ourselves in front of

language to sell beer differently before

people who don’t look like us and maybe

Following a lunch break where attendees

being joined by Michelle Gay of Lakes

haven’t heard about our beer.

could imbibe so fewer than 100 different

Brew Co and Katie Arabella of Northern

beers from the great and the good of

Monk who spoke at length about how

A special thanks to everyone that

breweries across Europe and further

you can effectively market and sell your

attended, our speakers and panellists,

afield, the day’s final session kicked off

beer.

the exhibitors, sponsors, Melissa, John and everyone that provided excellent

with a talk from Karl Trojan, the owner of the revered Brauerei Schrems.

Closing The Brewers Congress, Garrett

beer for all to enjoy.

Oliver, the brewmaster at Brooklyn The Schrems brewery is a business

Brewery delivered a passionate address

The Brewers Congress will return this

based in Lower Austria. First mentioned

in which he implored attendees to “get

December in 2022. Stay tuned for more

in 1410, the brewery has been owned

everybody in the room”.

information!

by Karl Theodor Trojan since 1991 and in

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BREWERS JOURNAL

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CLIMATE CHANGE

THE FUTURE IS BRIGHT

AT THE END OF 2021, THE MIDLAND AND SOUTHERN SECTIONS OF THE INSTITUTE OF BREWING AND DISTILLING HELD AN ENVIRONMENTAL WORKSHOP AT NOTTINGHAM UNIVERSITY. HERE JENNIFER TINGAY, THE HEAD BREWER AT SOUTHBOURNE ALES, DETAILS HER ACCOUNT OF THE DAY AND WHY THE IMPACT OF GLOBAL WARMING AFFECTS US ALL.

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I

n the aftermath of the UN’s COP

It was hosted by Roderick White of

26 in Glasgow there was another

Nottingham University School of Brewing

environmental conference which

and Tim O’Rourke of Brilliant Beer, in

saw the meeting of business

association with the Institute of Brewing

leaders and experts from across

and Distilling IBD and the Society of

the brewing industry.

Independent Brewers SIBA. Attendees

BREWERS JOURNAL

THE FUTURE IS GREEN BEER!

included everyone from hop farmers to

work towards achieving net zero carbon

included CO2 calculations business Net

representatives from the British Beer and

emissions for beer. The industry needs

Zero Now’s founder Simon Heppner,

Pub Association BBPA.

a 90% reduction to attain this; reducing

Greg Pilley of Stroud Brewery, Steve

They gathered not for a beer festival or

CO2 from 500g to 50g per litre.

Livens, Policy manager for the BBPA,

posh luncheon but to discuss, debate

After a rapid introduction we were

Roderick White of Nottingham University

and focus on how together they can

straight to work with the first panel which

and Cask Marques CEO Paul Nunny.

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33

The first panel looked at an overview of

such as Charles Faram. Various

a simple tool for obtaining fast often

work already started on CO2 calculators,

arguments were made for and against

low cost results and to be able to plan

brewery and malting environmental

organic products and it was agreed by

ahead when developing a new site. The

practices, the BBPA sited its web

many that whilst CO2 emissions are not

brewing processes account for 10% of

based resource, ‘Brewing Green’ which

always reduced by choosing organic, and

total beer CO2 emissions and includes

highlights many projects already

that agriculture could not meet demand

CO2 release from fermentation.

established in the industry and is a great

whilst we need so much crops for cattle

source of inspiration and we looked at

feed.

Currently carbon capture technologies in the UK are only able to collect at

some of the facts and figures the most However the point was made that

volumes equal or greater than 25kg/hr

organic most definitely has a place in

making this technology limited to large

Beer Emissions by sector of the industry

preserving biodiversity and should still

breweries, however collective pressure

Growing & processing raw materials 25%

be encouraged. Muntons have made big

from the micro brewing industry to

Brewing processes 10%

changes to their facilities using their own

develop micro technology could be

Packaging 35%

renewable energy and water treatment

worth progressing. It was noted that the

Distribution 10%

to make their Malt 100% sustainable and

capture must exceed the CO 2 from

Retail and home cooling 15%

with a target of 45% less emissions than

manufacture and delivery of plant to

Management of Waste 5%

in 2010 by 2025.

operate and that it might be necessary

dramatic listed below:

to form localised collectives to make this possible.

Audience participation through

It was noted that the transportation of

interjections, questions and idea sharing

Barley is still often the greatest source

was encouraged and it was immediately

of emissions although distance is not

I spoke on reducing emissions by

clear that this was going to be a very

always the issue when shipping freight

examining current practices to observe

interesting and progressive day. We

is compared to road transport. The

and implement simple, low cost and

were also enlightened on how CO2

economies of scale were also weighed

effective improvements, such as using

calculations are based on three stages

against the use of a local maltings and a

the hot water from the preheat of the

and do not need to be all calculated

case by case study would be required.

Mash Tun to clean the fermenting vessel, saving water and heat.

straight away.

Barley farming is also evolving its u Phase 1 - Measuring direct emissions

practices and Russell shared with

Also removing hoses from sites to

eg. CO2 from burning fuels, CO2 from

us his experiences of crop rotation

prevent wastage and using heat captured

fermentation, gas release from gas

to successfully reduce green house

from the Wort Kettle condenser to heat

bottles for carbonation.

emissions. Murphy’s explained many

water for cask washing. Green house

u Phase 2 - Requires the input of data

of their products that can help brewers

gas emissions from cooling plant

from electric and water bills to calculate

reduce their carbon foot print in the

refrigerant leaks were cited as an area

CO2 emissions from consumption

brewery including foam inhibitors

often not considered and brewers were

utilities.

(preventing losses during processing

encouraged to use ammonia in bigger

u Phase 3 - Detailed assessment of

and retaining foam properties for the

breweries and investigate alternatives.

purchases, services and customers

final serve), brewers’ enzymes (reducing

carbon contributions.

need for malted barley) and yeast aids

The final panel was made up of

(reducing fermentation time and thus

representatives from the packaging

cooling requirements).

industry, Ashley Parr IBD Midland

The likely prospect of Carbon taxation in

section and representative from

the not so distant future was noted and there was a consensus for there to be

The third panel included Steve Wilkinson,

Carlsberg Marston’s Brewing Company,

guidance on Green claims.

a distinguished brewer representing the

Ed Robinson Wells & Co’s Planet and

The second panel focused on raw

IBD , Will Calvert the CEO Windsor and

Community Impact Lead, Robert Fall

materials and included The Maltsters

Eton Brewery, as well as Net Zero Now

Chief Executive of Metal Packagers

Association CEO Dr Julian South, Dr

representative Johnny McCreesh, Will

Association, Oliver Browne-Wilkinson of

Nigel Davies Director of Technical

Todd CEO of Carbon Architecture and

Staple Barn Ltd and Dr Michael Joyes,

and Sustainability at Munton’s Plc,

myself, Jennifer Tingay CEO Southbourne

the Program Manager at Petainer Hybrid

Warminster Malting’s owner Robin Appel,

Brewing Limited.

Kegs.

McKenzie, Will Kirby Hop Farmer and

This panel saw my favourite fact being

This panel discussed possible methods

Stephanie Brindley from Murphy and Son.

shared which was that cows that

to reduce CO2 emissions which are

consume brewers’ grains as a part of

currently 35% of the make-up of total

In the room there were also

their diet produce 14% less Methane! I

beer CO2 footprint. Conversation started

representatives from other businesses

shared my principles of the 10 R’s being

with the notorious plastic keg, how its

John Sheard Farm’s Manager Russell

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BREWERS JOURNAL

low bulk packaging weight is ideal for

Hydro-electric facilities saving emissions.

What is important now is that this

long distance, one way transportation

We were also told that the modern can

discussion is continued with breweries

but it is currently unrecyclable. Michael

wall is only a hair’s width thickness. It is

and their suppliers and customers

explained Petainer Hybrid Kegs research

also worth noting that the scrap price of

sharing ideas and influencing decisions.

into making a fully dismantleable plastic

aluminium is £1000 per tonne, making

kegs and therefore providing a recyclable

recycling of cans a potentially profitable

This meeting was attended by many

option for the future. Consensus agreed

enterprise.

experienced and professional business

that large pack keg and more so cask

people sharing the same passion for

(not requiring gas for dispense or

The use of stainless caps on the

their respective industries, and all with

charging) were best for the environment

otherwise recyclable bottles was

the desire to make changes to their

being reusable.

discussed and the ease of recycling

businesses in order to reduce the impact

them if they could be collected; it was

of beer on the environment.

However demand for small pack is

suggested that a returns system across

growing and that finding the best option

the nations pubs would be simple to

Motivation is mixed, be it keeping ahead

is important. Harvey’s brewery were

initiate and would be more efficient than

of carbon taxation or a desire to do good;

applauded for still operating returnable

doorstep collection.

both will drive the changes needed in

glass bottles, but for beer not sold

the industry. Beer has been at the front

locally can is definitely “king” with 80%

Last minute ideas included universal

of technological progress probably since

of all metal that has ever been mined

A6 guest pumpclips with landlords just

it was first brewer 13000 years ago and it

still being available for use today. Can

changing the stickers but time ran out

is therefore no surprise that the Brewing

recycling turn around times are 60days

with plenty of ideas still to be shared.

and Associated Industries are now

and that cans in the UK are made from 50% recycled material.

tackling CO2 emissions head on.

Future meetings planned for 2022 aim to include other aspects of the industry

We were informed that nearly all of

such as distribution and equipment,

the Planet’s Aluminium extraction and

continuing the task now started.

processing facilities are situated next to

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brewersjournal.info

05/01/2022 12:14:24

JANUARY~FEBRUARY 2022

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DOUBLE-BARRELLED

WHEN TWO HEADS ARE BETTER THAN ONE

WHAT HAPPENS WHEN YOU COMBINE A COUPLE THAT HAVE A LOVE FOR TRAVEL, A PASSION FOR BREWING EXCELLENT BEERS AND THE DESIRE TO CREATE AN INCLUSIVE BREWERY THAT BOASTS A TAPROOM LOVED BY LOCALS AND VISITORS ALIKE? READING’S OWN DOUBLE-BARRELLED, OF COURSE! HAVING CELEBRATED ITS THIRD BIRTHDAY LAST NOVEMBER, AND WITH A CAPACITY EXPANSION UNDER ITS BELT ALREADY IN 2022, THE BREWERY IS ONLY LOOKING ONE WAY AND THAT’S FORWARD.

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A

delaide? Ok. Wellington?

fermentation capacity giving them the

Why not. Oregon? Of

ability to output up to 5,000hL next year,

course. Buenos Aires? Be

up from 2,500hL in 2021.

rude not to…

When starting a new

And breathe….

business, putting in the groundwork and conducting comprehensive research is

“When you take a step back, you

all-important. In beer, this is no different.

sometimes have no idea how you got to

So when Luci and Mike Clayton-Jones

that point,” says Luci. “But like a lot of our

decided they wanted to open a brewery

peers, we have really fought to get here,

of their own, they knew the best way

which makes it all the more humbling

of gaining inspiration was to see what

and rewarding.”

the world had to offer. And nobody can accuse them of being anything other

TWO HEARTED ALE

than thorough.

The Double-Barrelled story began in In addition to other revered beer

2014. With Mike a passionate home

destinations as diverse as Bamberg and

brewer, the idea of brewing a beer as a

California to Copenhagen and Singapore,

wedding favour for their big day made

the would-be brewery founders took in

complete sense. And with that their first

some 85,000 miles and with it, a plethora

beer ‘Ginger Bearded’ was born.

of unforgettable breweries, distilleries, wineries, vineyards, maltsters and hop

“It was all a bit of a joke. I’m ginger and

farms to name a few. And some five

Mike has a beard so that was that,” Luci

years on, the duo have not only started a

laughs. “It was very, very homebrew!”

brewery of their own in Double-Barrelled but it’s one that has just celebrated its

But their guests responded with

third birthday, too.

unanimous praise, acting as something of a catalyst that this hobby could maybe

“Looking back on three years of what

be taken to the next level. And even

started as an overindulged hobby, it’s

if they didn’t know it would stick, they

really gratifying to have got to this point

already had a brewery name ready to roll.

because a lot of businesses don’t make it this far, especially in this climate,” says

“My parents decided to create the

Mike. “And we have all the people that

Clayton-Jones moniker,” recalls Mike. “But

have supported us along the way to

when I was young they also decided to

thank.” The team marked turning three

separate leaving me as the only person

in November with a party for 350 guests

with that surname in the family. To be

and also a raft of collaborations with

honest, I felt the connotations of having

outfits such as Elusive Brewing, Duration,

a double-barrelled surname was a little

Siren Craft Brew, Amundsen, Vocation

posh, so growing up I didn’t really like it.

and Boxcar.

But here we are, it stuck.”

They were also nominated for ‘Best New

Luci added: “So when we called

Brewery’ at this very publication’s 2021

ourselves Double-Barrelled Brewery

Brewers Choice Awards. And in addition

for our wedding, we never realistically

to launching its debut cask beers,

planned to be where we are today. It was

the brewery has also just completed

all a bit of fun, but it’s here to stay!”

an ambitious expansion boosting

BREWERS JOURNAL

Double-Barrelled founders Mike Clayton-Jones and Luci Clayton-Jones All photos courtesy of Catherine Hadler

DOUBLE-BARRELLED Luci and Mike enjoyed working together

product. Doing that means we can also

and the creativity involved when brewing

translate that knowledge into our one-off

that special beer. Alongside the glowing

releases, too.

reviews from friends and family, it sparked the idea of perhaps not returning from their wedding to “very normal corporate jobs” and instead making brewing something more formal.

“So one thing led to another and we started brewing in our garage, launching commercially from there and somehow we’re now operating a 6,800sq ft site with a brewery, warehouse, offices and taproom ,” says Luci. “It’s all very surreal, and looking back we came into this with a huge degree of naivety for all the aspects to be involved.”

“Looking back on three years of what started as an overindulged hobby, it’s

Looking back on three years of what started as an overindulged hobby, it’s really gratifying to have got to this point.”

Mike ClaytonJones, DoubleBarrelled

we brew our core beers, we can make slightly bigger changes to our one-offs.

If it works really well then we obviously utilise that knowledge for the better. This state of continuous improvement is so fundamental to us; we never want to stop learning and progressing.

“Not long ago we started to pick up some issues in house with head retention on ‘Ding’, that we then confirmed at a local pub. We began implementing some recipe and process changes and we’re now at the point we’re much happier but that doesn’t mean we’ll suddenly stop there. It’s key to keep going and improve each and every time.”

really gratifying to have got to this point.”

Mike Clayton-Jones, Double-Barrelled

“Because we’re learning every time

such as prepping for HMRC approvals,” says Luci. “And we also knew we wanted

Those core beers help pay the bills but

Returning from their honeymoon, the

to launch properly at a fair-sized event.

also enable the brew team to regularly

duo registered the brewery’s name on

Craft Beer Rising in London is welcoming

create one-off seasonal and limited

Companies House. But realising they

to new breweries so that’s the route we

brews. With a team of 12, both Mike and

were lacking any real industry experience

took. Being in front of 12,000 people as a

Luci are also clear that the quality of

they set off travelling to learn from the

new brewery was very special.”

their beers have benefited immeasurably from the skillset and knowledge of their

great and the good of breweries and other drinks producers across the globe.

Luci and Mike pitched up at the 2018

colleagues.

event with four beers, brews a long time “Collectively we had come through some

in the making. “Even though the event

“As we’ve grown, our team has grown as

difficult life experiences which changes

was in February, the size of our kit meant

well,” says Luci. “We brought on people

your perspective on things and that live-

we had to start brewing the previous

that have got great expertise in brewing

to-work vs work-to-live mentality that

August,” laughs Mike.

pales, IPAs and lagers, and they’ve really helped us to develop to where we are

comes with the corporate side of life,” says Mike. “So we used that as the basis

Those early beers took the form of a

today. People trust us with these beers

for justifying this trip as a way to get that

raspberry and beetroot gose, a milk

and with that, it gives us the freedom to

much-needed knowledge. And I would

stout, an imperial stout and an India pale

explore brewing more experimental and

wholeheartedly recommend it if you can.

lager. “We wanted to avoid going down

boundary pushing recipes”

It was life-altering.”

the route of IPAs and try and stand out a little and showcase some of the styles

The duo visited no less than 29 countries

we were passionate about,” he says,

during their travels, taking in breweries as

“Thankfully, I think it worked.”

varied as Pirate Life and Three Floyds to

EARLY ADOPTERS Events such as Craft Beer Rising played an important role in the formative stages

Stone Brewing, Toppling Goliath, and Nya

In the three years that have followed,

of Double-Barrelled. So has the support

Carnegiebryggeriet. And when they were

the brewery has produced countless

from pubs and bars that put faith in those

due to return home in July 2017, they

beers across the style gamut, frequently

beers early on. The Hop Locker, located

were already well and truly bitten by the

leaning on sours, pales and stouts. Core

on London’s South Bank, was a spot that

brewing bug.

beers such as its pale ale Parka and

Luci and Mike would frequent as beer

keller lager Ding are house favourites

fans but its founders, Joel and Laura,

“Our plans had crystalised in our minds

both to drink and produce.

have stocked the brewery’s beers from

and we were very clear that we wanted

Mike says: “The beauty of running core

early on, as have The Fox and Hounds in

to open a brewery on our return so we

beers is having the ability to make

Caversham.

ordered our 100 litre kit a month before

small changes to each brew and really

heading home and started on admin

understand how that impacts the end

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“Their support is what makes your

BREWERS JOURNAL

DOUBLE-BARRELLED business and it’s what keeps you going.

To this day, both of those places are some of our biggest customers,” says Luci. “And that’s amazing, especially when our beers were probably not where we wanted them to be early on.

“Hopefully one day we can repay them for their leap of faith. I’m not sure how, but it’s a nice idea.” While venues such as The Hop Locker and The Fox and Hounds have been invaluable allies since the early days, Double-Barrelled’s beers can now be enjoyed far and wide. But, unsurprisingly, there’s few better spots to imbibe than their taproom. A facet of the brewery’s identity that is a particular point of pride for the duo.

“We were heavily-influenced by the US taproom model,” says Luci. “Living in Reading in our 20’s meant we had to go into London to experience the type of beer environments that resonated with us.

“So when it came to doing something ourselves, we wanted to create somewhere that we enjoyed and hoped others would, too. Simple things, like having seats with backs on!”

Located some 10 mins out of Reading town centre, Luci says they’re fullyaware Double-Barrelled is not part of something like the famed Bermondsey Beer Mile but that doesn’t mean it can’t be a destination venue, either.

“We are fortunate to attract a wide range of people from our local community.

They bring their children down, their dogs, even their grandmas,” she smiles.

“For me, that’s an environment I can be proud we’ve created.”

And that sense of inclusivity is of utmost important to Double-Barrelled. Having experienced a wealth of drinking establishments across the globe, they knew creating somewhere that people felt welcomed was imperative. Luci explains: “There are many people who are immediately put off by the concept of beer because they tried something that they didn’t enjoy previously. But we want to change opinions, having something for

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BREWERS JOURNAL

DOUBLE-BARRELLED

everyone, and creating an environment

certain beers,” she says. “As we grow

for all. Starting conversations with

we’ll develop our beer range to reflect

customers about what flavours they like

our customers purchasing habits, as well

rather than what beer they drink makes

as the beers we are passionate about.

that a more approachable topic.

“We’ve all been guilty of being part of a beer bubble at times, so it’s so important to recognise that we involve everyone and exclude no-one. In her talk at The Brewers Congress, Ruth (Mitchell of Elusive Brewing) talked on using language to attract people to the category overall. You need to connect with consumers with terms they can relate to, and I couldn’t agree more.”

We are fortunate to attract a wide range of people from our local community,” Luci Clayton-Jones, Double-Barrelled

Keeping the mix of both is key to keeping our customers happy, and brew team engaged!”

The demand for the Reading brewery’s beers led it to undertake a fermentation expansion programme at the start of this year. It now brews into six 50 HL FVs and four 24HL FVs, which also gives the team room to grow further when, not if, needed. So if you can’t make it to their taproom, expect to see beers such as Parka, Ding and others in more

And thanks to the taproom, Luci, Mike

pubs, bars and bottle shops in 2022 and

and the team have been able to do just

beyond. “You need to take a leap of faith

that. While some visitors will stick to core

at every stage of the brewery’s life. When

beers such as Parka and Ding, many

it comes to starting out, and when it

others will take that journey trying the

comes to growing. But we are optimistic

myriad of other releases on offer.

about the future, and passionate about everything we do,” says Luci.

“We’ll be asked about a beer that was only a one-off or seasonal release but

Mike adds: “Passionate, and determined

you find that people really start to love

to keep making positive changes.”.

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BREWERS JOURNAL

NEW SIZE! SAME GREAT YEASTS. We’re launching our popular, high quality beer yeast in 100 g pouches (so packs, under inert atmosphere), bridging the gap between our 11.5 g sachets (so packs under inert atmosphere) and 500 g bricks (hard packs, under vacuum). So now, whatever your brewer’s profile, you get extra convenience and flexibility.

100g

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Launch_Pub_Range_100G_Beer_190x125mm_RS.indd 1

07/01/2022 10:30:35

FERGUS FITZGERALD

MY QUARTER CENTURY AND THE THINGS I’VE LEARNT

DURING A BREWING CAREER THAT HAS SPANNED 26 YEARS TO DATE, FERGUS FITZGERALD HAS LEARNED A GREAT DEAL. IN THAT TIME, THE HEAD OF PRODUCTION AT ADNAMS SAYS IT’S IMPORTANT TO SAY ‘YES’ MORE THAN YOU SAY ‘NO, AND TO NEVER LOSE YOUR DESIRE TO LEARN.

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B

ack in 2020, Tim Sheahan

route, but then neither did staying in rural

asked me if I’d do a talk on

Ireland where the most likely path was

dealcoholisation at one of

getting a job in the local dairy laboratory

the Brewers Lectures in

and putting cheese through a stomacher

Norwich, which I happily

that had been stored at 50oC.

agreed to do. We are really proud of what we’ve done with Ghost Ship 0.5 since we

If you neither know what a stomacher is,

started in mid 2018.

or what cheese smells like that has been

Obviously that event was cancelled but

stored at 50oC and then put through a

when it was rearranged for 2021 Tim

stomacher, then you may not appreciate

asked again, and again I agreed, but as

how easy a decision it was to head to

Adnams had talked quite a bit about Low

London.

and No over the past 12 months that it didn’t feel like the right topic.

That probably brings me to the first thing

After a bit of email back and forth, he

I think I’ve learnt, and that’s to say yes,

suggested that I talk a bit about what I’d

more than you say no.

learnt as a brewer. It turns out I’ve been in the brewing industry for 26 years so

To regularly try things that scare you, to

it was probable that I will have learnt

do things that make you uncomfortable

something in that time.

and challenge you. I was shy, introverted,

So here we are.

not confident so it would have been easier for me to stay in Ireland but I left. I

My starting point in brewing was a

know our HR director will tell me that I’m

temporary lab tech at Fuller’s, way

wrong and that I need to say no much

back in 1995. I’d just finished studying

more than I do, but the things I’ve said

Biotechnology in Waterford in Ireland

yes to have brought me joy.

and due to a historical relationship with

My interest in beer at this point was

Fuller’s I was offered the chance to head

largely in its consumption and my

across the water to London.

knowledge of styles was limited to the

I grew up on a small farm in Limerick,

holy trinity of Lager, Guinness and the

Terry Wogan country for those unfamiliar

brown one that no one really drank,

with the Counties of Ireland. As an

Smithwick’s.

aside I found out years later that the

That changed quite quickly as my

father of Evin O’Riordain, founder of The

primary job was running the tasting room

Kernel, actually taught me when I was in

at Fuller’s, otherwise known as the Cage.

Waterford.

Reg Drury was still Head Brewer then.

I had never been out of Ireland and as a raging Introvert from a family of introverts

John Keeling and Reg would come to the

it didn’t immediately feel like the obvious

tasting room every day to taste the beers.

BREWERS JOURNAL

INTERVIEW

I think it was through this, listening to

Gradually I made my way through the

them passionately discuss the beers and

laboratory roles, into some quality

the subtlety of the changes that really

management work, which I couldn’t really

sparked my interest in beer.

get excited about. John Keeling had

After six months I returned to Ireland, having first suggested they recruit a friend of mine from Waterford, while I took a temporary Lab job in Murphy’s Brewery in Cork. I think at that stage I had decided breweries were the place for me.

When that came to an end another job had come up in Fuller’s so I returned to London in January 1997. As it happened

Regularly try things that scare you, and do things that challenge you”

taken over as head brewer by then and Georgina Young had come in as brewing manger.

George asked if anyone was interested in doing the IBD exams and she even volunteered to help people study. At that point I knew I wanted to be in production making the beer so along with four or five

during the year I’d been back in Ireland,

others I signed up.

Fuller’s had recruited a number of friends

I progressed through the levels to get

that I’d studied Biotechnology with from

my Master Brewer in 2008. I might be the

Waterford, so it was like a home from

only person to have been presented with

home.

my Master Brewer twice, as a year earlier

brewersjournal.info

JANUARY~FEBRUARY 2022

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45

INTERVIEW at the brewing dinner Tim O’Rourke

idea now that having role models is so

called me up to accept my Master

important, I think it’s also important to

Brewer award, despite the fact I hadn’t

realise that people aren’t always how you

sat the final exam.

perceive them.

So the next thing I’ve learnt is really

There is still a prevalence of belief that

around learning. In whatever way that

people in positions of authority are there

suits you, keep learning, as there is

because they know more than you, that

always more to know, Never believe

they are cleverer, that they see things

you have all the answers and keep

that you don’t, but the truth in most cases

challenging what you think you know.

is that we all make decisions based on

Don’t rely on inherited wisdom as there

the balance of what we know, what we’ve

are many reasons an idea fails, only

experienced, that most decisions live in

one of them is that the idea was wrong.

the grey.

Sometimes things fail because we didn’t

There are no definite outcomes but we

know enough to know that we don’t know

expect our leaders to be confident in

enough. So make your own mistakes and

what they ask us to do, we don’t want

keep learning.

probabilities, we want certainty, so they show that back to us. For a long time

I left Fuller’s in 2004, having finished my

I thought I had to find a way of being

diploma in brewing through the IBD, and

more confident but actually I’ve learnt is

despite initially wanting to move closer

that leadership is about accepting the

to my partner’s family in Liverpool, the

uncertainties and, when you need to,

temptation of an assistant brewers job at

making a decision anyway.

Sometimes things fail because we didn’t know enough to know that we don’t know enough. So make your own mistakes and keep learning.”

Adnams proved too great.

It was an amazing time to be joining

When I took over as head brewer

Adnams as unlike many established

Adnams was part of a head brewers

breweries, they had decided to reinvest

group called the International Wine

into brewing, into actually making beer.

Buyers Consortium. I won’t explain why

While lots of breweries were considering

it was called that in the hope that some

pulling out or downsizing, Adnams

sense of mystery transfers to me through

was rebuilding, replacing Victorian era

my membership.

equipment with state-of-the-art kit.

The name changed a few years ago to the much more descriptive ‘Head

The first stage, installing new fermenters,

Brewers Group’ but the function stays

was mostly completed when I joined. The

the same, to allows head brewers to

next stage was only just starting, which

complain about malsters.

involved designing a new brewhouse,

No, not really.

which was installed in 2007. Mike Powell Evans was head brewer at the time, and

It allows brewers to exchange ideas

seeing in the new brewhouse was his

about the issues of the day, whether

final gift to the brewery as he retired in

it was technical brewing issues, raw

2008.

materials, legislation, or whatever else comes across the head brewer’s desk.

I knew Mike would be retiring when I

It’s of the most use for breweries where

joined four years previously but I didn’t

often the only technical brewers are the

see myself as head brewer material.

head brewers themselves.

Head brewers were people like Reg Drury, or John Keeling or Mike, people

In those early few years having the ability

of stature, people who were definite in

to call up people like Roger Ryman and

what the right course of action was. You

ask for his opinion was a huge comfort to

needed gravitas to be a head brewer and

me, and I would encourage any brewer

that wasn’t me.

to find something similar. Just a group of

Except that I was asked to take over

people that share the same issues that

as head brewer so unexpectedly I was

can help, or just empathise, and ideally

the thing that I didn’t think I could be. I

call it something more mysterious than

think everyone is now familiar with the

the ‘Head Brewers Group’.

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BREWERS JOURNAL

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THE GROWTH OF BREWING IN EAST SUSSEX

WHAT MAKES THE BREWING SCENE IN EAST SUSSEX SO SPECIAL? HERE, EMMA INCH SPEAKS TO SOME OF THE BREWERS THAT MAKE UP THIS RICH BEER TAPESTRY. 48

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JANUARY~FEBRUARY 2022

P

ay a visit to Bedlam Brewery

with the farm’s cows.

and you might just come

Bedlam began life in 2011 just across

away with mud on your

the border in West Sussex, moving east

boots. Despite its modern

seven years later. In doing so, it joined

approach to brewing, its

a county where the interplay between

appeal to urban drinkers, the solar panels

metropolitan and rural, heritage and

that gleam across its roof, and its recently

revolution, respect for regional produce,

delivered state-of-the-art brew kit, the

and a strong sense of community

folks at Bedlam never forget their roots.

connection, characterizes an exciting,

Located on a farm in Plumpton Green,

expanding, and welcoming brewing

north of Lewes, they’re as familiar with

scene.

the local pigs as they are with the local

Three Legs Brewery in Broad Oak, north

pubs; they even share their spent grain

of Hastings, has been around since 2015.

BREWERS JOURNAL

According to co-founder, Ben Murray,

Sussex and beyond are pretty friendly

cider and gin makers – have also cho-

East Sussex is a great place to have

and cooperative. The only enemy of a

sen to make the county their home.

established a brewery. “A massive range

brewery like ours is bad beer. All the time

of the beer spectrum is produced in the

the brewing is quality-led and diverse,

This thriving artisanal drinks scene has

county and is increasing all the time,” he

that can only increase demand. Not only

resulted in some interesting cross-

explains.

that, if you’re ever a bag of malt or some

pollination. For example, Bedlam

Many brewers like Murray perceive

hops short, it’s nice to have neighbours,”

Brewery’s Porter Noir is a warm,

the growth in breweries not only in

he adds.

dark ale flavoured with pinot noir grapes from the Ridgeview Estate in

terms of healthy competition, but also as beneficial due to the amount of

Prior to setting up Three Legs, Ben was

Ditchling, and Burning Sky Brewery’s

innovation, support and cooperation that

a wine maker. East Sussex is one of the

Cider Apple Saison showcases

comes along with it.

UK’s leading wine-producing counties,

Dabinett and Harry Masters Jersey

“I think the brewing population in East

and other drinks producers – including

apple varieties together with the skills

brewersjournal.info

JANUARY~FEBRUARY 2022

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49

EAST SUSSEX of local cider maker, Ascension.

Of course, part of the reason East Sussex has such great drinks producers is the synergy they have with the county’s rich agriculture. Beak is one of the area’s newest breweries. It put down roots in the county town of Lewes in spring 2020 and within months was listed as one of the top UK mi-crobreweries by ratings

The heritage, the hops, the hope, and the dogged determination of the county,” Miles Jenner, Harvey’s.

site Untappd. Founder, Daniel Tapper, is very keen to draw on hyper-local ingredients. ‘Currently we are growing

Local sentiment has created a sense of

something for everyone,” he says. “I’ve

eight acres of mixed heritage grain just

public ownership of the brewery and its

been particularly excited to see this

outside Lewes. The beer brewed using

beers – and we take tremendous pride

scene continue to develop recently too,

this grain will be hopped with locally

in this.’

with the addition of breweries like Abyss and Beak proving that there’s still plenty

grown hops before being fermented in a 5000-litre oak barrel using native wild

Tapper also recognizes the special

of untapped potential, and will mean I’ll

yeast strains. What’s more, portions of the

support the people of East Sussex

be making many more visits in the future

beer will then be conditioned over local

extend to their local brew-ers “People like

to sample all these wonderful new beers.’

fruit. It’s our ode to this county’s amazing

to drink beer here and they appreciate

produce.’

both heritage and progression, which is

The future for the county’s brewing

great for a brewery like ours,” he explains.

scene certainly looks bright. With

Just down the road from Beak is ‘Lewes

The unique position of East Sussex and

business support from initiatives such

Cathedral’, otherwise known as Harvey’s,

its county town also plays its part. As

as Locate East Sussex, the unique

the oldest brew-ery in East Sussex.

Tapper says: ’The location of Lewes is

combination of tradition and innovation,

Established in 1790, it remains in the

ideal for us. We get to live and work in

and what Miles Jenner refers to as: “the

hands of the same family to this day.

a truly unique rural town in the heart

heritage, the hops, the hope, [and] the

Miles Jenner has been head brewer for

of the South Downs National Park and

dogged determination of the county.”

the past thirty-five years and agrees that

yet we are ten minutes by train from

It looks set to grow and thrive. Back

local ingredients are best. “It is simple

Brighton and sixty minutes from London.

on the farm, Bedlam Brewery is ready

environmental sense. Why import foreign

I think over time this will help the town to

to embrace that growth. Director, Rob

hops when you have the finest hop

become a genuine craft beer destination.’

Shepherd says: “At the end of the day, the

growers in the world on your doorstep?”

Arguably, the county already has a wider

point is not to fight over the pie as is; it’s

A brewery is nothing, of course, without

reputation as a place to drink quality

to make a bigger pie.”

people to drink the beer. Harvey’s

beer. Matthew Curtis, author of the

branding carries the unofficial motto of

recently published book ‘Modern British

And this pie has to be one of the tastiest

Sussex: ‘we wunt be druv’, in reference

Beer’, is a big fan.

around. Business Support Organisation Locate East Sussex is here to support

to the independent mindedness of the locals, and represents the symbiotic

‘I’m always excited to visit East Sussex

all growing businesses in East Sussex to

relationship between brewer and drinker.

and experience its beer scene, from

achieve their goals. If you are looking to

‘We feel we are a truly local brew, tailored

traditional breweries such as Harvey’s

setup a brewery in East Sussex or grow

to the local palate, ‘explains Miles, ‘Many

through to modern trailblazers like

an existing one, then do Get in touch –

of our brands…reflect our local heritage.

Burning Sky, it really does have

enquiries@locateeastsussex.org.uk

50

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BREWERS JOURNAL

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GAS SAFETY

GAS SAFETY IN THE BREWING INDUSTRY

WE’VE COME A LONG WAY SINCE JOHANN DRÄGER FILED FOR HIS FIRST PATENT BUT, AS JAMES HARMER, ACCOUNT MANAGER AT DRAEGER SAFETY UK EXPLAINS, GAS SAFETY IN THE BREWING INDUSTRY CONTINUES TO RISE UP THE AGENDA OF THE HEALTH AND SAFETY EXECUTIVE (HSE) AND IT IS EXPECTED THAT REGULATIONS IN THIS AREA WILL BE TIGHTENED.

brewersjournal.info

G

as safety in the brewing

is the gas which poses the greatest risk

industry is not new and

to the safety of both employees, and

indeed it was at the heart

equipment. Carbon dioxide created as

of the launch of Dräger

a by-product during the fermentation

as a business. When

process will usually be diverted to the

Johann Heinrich Dräger founded the

exterior of the building where it can be

company in 1889, he developed a new

safety released.

valve, the Lubeca valve, to safety control

However, it is important to consider the

the flow of gas in beer tap systems at a

possibility of gas escaping inside the

low pressure. This was the first time that

building, either during fermentation

the removal of carbon dioxide (CO2) from

or when used later in the process to

a high-pressure tank could be precisely

carbonate bottled and kegged beer. As a

controlled.

colourless and odourless gas, an escape

We’ve come a long way since Johann

is hard to detect without the appropriate

Dräger filed for his first patent, but gas

technology, and can form potentially

safety in the brewing industry, and

lethal pockets of gas, even where there is

indeed in broader industry, continues

ventilation in place.

to rise up the agenda of the Health and Safety Executive (HSE) and it is expected

The risk of not having a suitable gas

that regulations in this area will be

detection system in place is that if there

tightened.

is a build-up of higher concentrations – the HSE states this applies to levels

In the brewing industry, carbon dioxide

above 5000 PPM LTEL and 15000 PPM

JANUARY~FEBRUARY 2022

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53

GAS SAFETY

The first line of defence in combatting gas safety risks is prevention

CASE STUDY | EVERARDS

STEL - there is a risk of employees

Everards is an independent family brewery based in Leicestershire. It recently

experiencing increased respiratory

opened its new headquarters at Everards Meadows, a 70 acre site just outside of

rate, tachycardia, cardiac arrhythmias,

Leicester which is home to the company’s new state-of-the-art brewery.

and impaired consciousness. While

Draeger worked with Jon Elks, the Head Brewer who is responsible for safety at

concentrations above this may cause

the new site, in order to understand and address the brewery’s gas safety require-

convulsions, coma and may even prove

ments during the construction and installation process.

fatal.

The first line of defence in combatting

Following a pre-construction risk assessment using the footprint and plans of the

gas safety risks is prevention, and a

new building, 15 explosion-proof infrared gas detectors were installed to provide

professional hazard study identifies risks

continuous monitoring to safeguard against possible carbon dioxide leaks.

of these types of situations, and this will provide guidance on gas detection

In addition, the brewery has six portable gas detections which are used by staff

monitoring requirements to keep

give an extra layer of personal protection to employees in areas of higher risk, and

employees safe.

to provide peace of mind.

For example, these devices are worn by staff who work in the bar if they need to go

Clearly, unexpected incidents and

into the brewery, to alert them if there is a leak, and as a result all staff on site are

accidents caused by mechanical failure

trained in the use of carbon dioxide monitors.

and human error still occur, so it is essential to create an early warning

The brewing facility has a state-of-the-art protective wall of gas sensors, installed

system to detect these situations as they

in optimum locations and which provide continuous monitoring to safeguard

happen and to allow mitigating actions

against possible carbon dioxide gas leaks, An alarm is automatically sounded if

to be taken. This is where gas detection

there is any leakage and the CO2 sensors are set at 1.5% (15000 PPM STEL) but the

comes in and where a suitably designed

system has been structured so that if there is any elevation in levels across any

gas detection system can alert staff to

three devices, an alarm will also go off. This protects against any slow gas leaks

any potential build-up of harmful gases,

which can be rectified before they become a major problem.

whilst automatically triggering mitigating actions such as pre-programmed

The fixed detection system is also connected to Everards’ ventilation system so

ventilation.

that ventilation is automatically increased if leak is detected, in order to reduce the

This is a critical area of safety area that is

risk.

not always given due prominence. Gas detection is often the last consideration

Gas safety is often part of a wide-ranging portfolio of safety issues at the forefront

in the development and planning of a

for responsible brewing.

brewing facility and by this stage, money

However, when it comes to employee safety, as Everards Brewery demonstrates,

is often tight. However, the effectiveness

there are no shortcuts and making a comparatively small investment in a well-de-

of prioritising this key area of safety is

signed and reliable gas detection system helps to protect not only employees’

exemplified by Everards Brewery.

health but ultimately protects against the loss of assets and lives, often both.

54

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JANUARY~FEBRUARY 2022

BREWERS JOURNAL

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PakTech has Repurposed over a Half Billion Containers into Packaging Handles

GAS SAFETY

GAS SAFETY IN THE BOTTLING PROCESS ATI’S DIRECTOR OF BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT, TRISTEN PREGER, DISCUSSES THE DANGERS OF

C

CO₂ is an essential

monitoring is vital to ensure safety.

additive used in beverage

ATi are one of the world’s only specialist

production today,

gas sensor manufacturers that

adding the sparkling

makes accurate and dedicated H₂O₂

effect and conserving

and PAA sensors. Used

drinks. However, despite its process benefits, CO₂ can prove

within ATi’s fixed and portable gas monitoring range, they

HARMFUL GASES USED WITHIN BOTTLING PROCESSES AND THE PROCEDURES WE CAN PUT IN PLACE TO CONTROL THEM.

extremely hazardous for

provide immediate decontamination

employees. Monitoring this gas is a

validation throughout the sterilisation

legal requirement within breweries

process, giving instant peace of mind for

and beverage dispensing industries to

the efficacy of the deep-clean.

protect customers and staff.

SELF-TESTING MONITORING As the gas moves around the site in different ways, depending on air

Traditional gas detection systems are

turbulence, moving parts, doors,

generally no longer fit for purpose when

machinery and extraction, staff

working alongside newer, more modern

can become exposed above the

manufacturing processes. However,

recommended limits. CO₂ gas is 1.5

ATi’s gas detector range with the unique

times heavier than air, which means it

AutoTest feature has transformed toxic

can accumulate at ground level. Any

gas monitoring. AutoTest was developed

leaks or overflows can lead to the build-

specifically to ensure ATi’s range of gas

up of ‘pools’, with dangerously high

detectors provided peace of mind and

concentrations that are not visible to the

complete protection for staff.

human eye. Fortunately, this risk can be controlled by the continuous monitoring

The pioneering AutoTest feature is the

within the production process utilising

only gold standard in gas detection

ATi’s range of intelligent gas detection

available that checks itself daily

systems.

with self-generated gas. This unique feature is designed to detect and

PAA & H₂O₂ MONITORING

monitor potentially hazardous toxic and flammable gas leaks, ensuring the safest

H₂O₂ and peracetic acid (PAA) are strong

possible working environment. It provides

oxidisers, widely used for cleaning

an early warning alarm if a sensor fails to

and decontamination processes in the

respond, allowing for timely remedial or

food, beverage and industrial sectors.

protective actions to be undertaken.

However, these high strength oxidants

56

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JANUARY~FEBRUARY 2022

are extremely dangerous to staff if

Conventional gas detection systems

exposed over time as background levels

require costly manual ‘bump tests’ and

or through leaks, meaning continuous

annual service contracts to ensure health

BREWERS JOURNAL

GAS SAFETY and safety compliance, which are only

Larger systems offering up to 1,024

measures when toxic chemicals and/

carried out on average 1.5 times a year. In

sensors can also be achieved using

or gases are present on site, allowing

contrast, AutoTest checks gas detection

multiple Midi units.

employees to monitor the safety of working practices.

systems daily, guaranteeing staff safety This flexible controller enables alerts

and proving efficacy.

to be sent to the operator when pre-

These gases can quickly become

For ease of monitoring and control

determined levels are exceeded, while

debilitating, critically effecting breathing

on larger scales, ATi’s GasSens Midi

safely shutting down the system and

and vision in a matter of seconds.

addressable, multi-functional controller

locking doors to prevent unauthorised

However, the

allows manufacturers to offer advanced

access, preventing harmful exposure.

health and safety monitoring for a wider area. By creating a daisy-chain network of

versatility of ATi UK’s gas detection range provides industry-leading systems that exceed

CONCLUSION

health and safety requirements, prove efficacy, offer peace of mind and fulfil

Auto-Test enabled gas detectors, GasSens Midi provides

For many staff, the risk of toxic gases has

all legal requirements, making ATi’s gas

complete control and compliance.

become part and parcel of their working

detection range amongst the safest in

The ATi system has the capacity to

environment, not knowing if the levels

the world.

monitor and control up to 64 of ATi’s gas

being inhaled are a major health concern

detectors, allowing operators to have

for both employer and employee.

full control of the networked system,

COSHH regulations require employers

with automatic safety check diagnostics.

to protect staff through rigorous safety

Brewers Halfpage - 190x125mm.indd 1

brewersjournal.info

11/01/2022 15:19

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57

TRENDING

TALK OF TERROIR

LOVE HIM OR HATE HIM, BUT JEREMY CLARKSON’S BESTSELLING HAWKSTONE BEER IS DRIVING HOME THE IDEA OF TERROIR

BY USING HIS BARLEY FROM HIS FARM FOR THE BREW. WHILE NOT THE ONLY ONE, FEW BREWERS DO THIS WITH BARLEY ARGUABLY OFTEN USED AS A COMMODITY. VELO MITROVICH REPORTS ON A US WHISKEY DISTILLER WHO WANTS TO BRING BACK TERROIR FOR ALL SPIRITS AND WHAT WE, AS BREWERS, CAN LEARN.

58

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N

o doubt you’ve

consequently, on the resulting beer

experienced this. You

flavour profile.

been asked to bring a bottle of ‘nice wine’ to

Published in March 2021 in the Journal of

a party. As you stand

the Institute of Brewing, they noted that,

there looking at the hundreds of bottles

to date, in contrast to variety-specific

in the supermarket, arranged by colour,

effects, comprehensive research data

age, price, region, grape variety – or a

on the impact of terroir on hop brewing

combination of any or all – you’re left

characteristics are limited.

wondering: “How can I ever choose?”

Therefore, through the production of

You know that no matter what you pick,

single-hop beers produced with T90 hop

somebody at the party will make a face

pellets from distinct cultivation regions

at your selection and say: “I only drink

worldwide, they confirmed that terroir-

chardonnay from grapes grown from this

related characteristics of hop batches

little west-facing hill near Ardèche.”

affect the sensory attributes of beer and that the effects are variety dependent.

And you think “Well sacré bleu to you and your terroir,” as you pour yourself a

“These insights may allow brewers to

whisky from Islay. With whiskies, while

account for the impact of hop terroir on

there are national and regional styles, it

the consistency and the quality of their

has been long-argued that the concept

beers, while it may open perspectives

of terroir doesn’t exist. But where does

for subtle diversification in beer flavour

beer stand in this equation?

profiles,” they added. And from another angle, can an element of terroir come

The bottle in your hand might say Scotch

through the grain after it has been

Whisky or Kentucky Bourbon, but the

malted, boiled, combined with yeast,

grain used could come from anywhere

fermented, distilled, casked in an oak

in the world and could have even been

barrel, and aged?

combined with different varieties of the same grain.

Many brewers could learn a thing or two from Rob Arnold, who says ‘yes’. A

Most people can taste the difference

master distiller who believes as much,

between single estate – terroir – wines,

based on his experience in whiskey

coffee, tea, chocolate, and olive oil.

distilling in Texas and in whisky/whiskey

Cheese and even some beef show the

research around the world, including

effect of terroir as well. Winemakers

Ireland’s Waterford Distillery. In fact, he

universally accept that where a grape

feels so strong about this subject – and

is grown influences its chemistry, which

message – that he’s written the most

in turn changes the flavour of the wine.

detailed study of grain terroir that exists

A detailed system has codified the idea

today, ‘The Terroir of Whiskey’. And, it is

that place matters to wine. So why don’t

a very enjoyable read. Besides being a

we feel the same way about beer and

journey of discovery of flavour, it is also

whiskey, and the ingredients used to

on the science of flavour and why grain

produce it?

terroir does matter in beverages. And that includes beer. This, he found out, is being

In a paper on the ‘Relevance of hop

put into practice by a new generation of

terroir for beer flavour’ by Ann Van Holle,

craft producers, plant breeders and local

Hilde Muylle and Geert Haesaert et

farmers who are bringing back the grain

al, they observed that not only variety

flavours that drinkers loved 100-years

but also terroir may have a significant

ago.

impact on the biochemical and brewing characteristics of hops and,

BREWERS JOURNAL

TRENDING

WHAT HAPPENED TO GRAIN

only local regional varieties of grain that

shifting this grain to animal feed,

were adapted to a place and handed

producing meat at a level we never had

According to Arnold, since its beginnings,

down from farmer to farmer. And with

before,” says Arnold. In the 1860s roller

the whiskey industry – and breweries –

that you had 1,000s of distilleries, dotting

mills were introduced first in Europe and

have basically been tied to the evolution

the landscape here in the United States

then in the United States. Before these

of grain and the rise of commodities up

and elsewhere producing spirits from

mills, white flour was expensive and

until the late 1800s.

local grains. There was no such thing as

white bread was only for the wealthy.

high-yield, modern variety hybrid grains

But with roller mills, it was quick, easy,

“Before then, there was there was no

that suppressed flavour in favour of yield,”

and cheap to separate out the various

such thing as a seed company so every

he says.

parts of wheat, leaving white flour behind with very little in it. Indeed, so much

variety of grain that existed would have been what we call today ‘heirlooms’,”

Once we got into the 20th century and

was removed from the flour that by law

Arnold tells us. Those grains would have

especially after World War Two, some of

it ultimately it had to be enriched with

been selected by farmers for whatever

the world’s war industries ‘beat a sword

nutrients.

traits they were interested in. That would

into a ploughshare’ and turned their focus

have obviously been things like yield

to agriculture. More efficient farming

The bread industry loved this white

and how accessible it was from a harvest

techniques in the grain producing areas

flour. With the wheat oil and other parts

team standpoint – standability, height,

of North America, the Soviet Union,

removed, milled flour could be stored

things like that – but also flavour.

Brazil, Argentina, and Australia, along with

much longer and white flour was easier

synthetic fertilisers and hybrid varieties

to use in automated bakery machines,

“Remember, we didn’t used to feed grain

of grain, allowed production to soar like

allowing for the huge, mega-bread

to chickens and cows. We cared about

never before, especially with wheat.

companies we have today.

the flavour of the grain, of the corn, of the

“You had this massive grain surplus,

According to Arnold, you were left with

wheat or rye, it’s what we were feeding

which was perfect for the commodity

two huge markets for grain – animal feed

our families, not our livestock. There were

market, and all of a sudden we were

and baking companies – and neither

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BREWERS JOURNAL

TRENDING

To me, terroir is all about discovering old chemistry that we’ve lost through the modern process of plant breeding and the industrial agri-culture,” Rob Arnold

cared about the flavour of grain. Plant

WHAT IS TERROIR?

a lot of the aldehydes which are derived from oxidation of lipids in the grain during

researchers worked on creating highyield varieties for these markets which is

As Arnold says, it is not nearly as

mashing and distillation, and during high

where we are today. None of this really

complicated as some make the concept

temperature processes are impacted by

crossed Arnold’s mind until in 2014 when

out to be. In a nutshell, terroir is how the

terroir.”

Arnold was visiting Sawyer Farmers, a

variety, the genetics, and the growing

large farm which supplied all the barley,

environment impact flavour.

But, despite all the scientific research, Arnold admits it’s not a straight line when

rye, wheat, and corn used to make spirits “To me, terroir is all about discovering

it comes to whisky flavour. “It’s this very

old chemistry that we’ve lost through the

complicated tapestry, whiskey flavour,

While watching corn being harvested

modern process of plant breeding and

and you pull one thread and you can shift

with Sawyer, the two men got into a

the industrial agriculture. This discovery

that tapestry. So how much does terroir

discussion about this specific corn,

will lead to diversity of flavour, new fla-

matter? This is it’s a debate that will never

what were its uses and the whole

vours and flavours we’ve forgotten. It’s

be answered because it depends on

idea of flavour – which John Sawyer

connecting to the land and who you’re

how much you want to highlight it in your

sidestepped. Arnold didn’t let up,

working with; it’s knowing where your

process,” says Arnold.

however, and asked him at what point

grain comes from,” he says.

at TX Whiskey where he worked.

“If you are segregating grain varieties

was grain flavour considered. Sawyer answered: “Us farmers don’t get paid for

While this might sound very abstract

and the farms where they come from,

flavour. Grain is a commodity. We get

and airy-fairy, Arnold lays down scientific

and distilling them separately, you’re

paid for yield.” That was the catalyst for

evidence for this in his work with Ale

going to find some distinct differences

Arnolds’ world journey to find out what

Ochoa from Texas A&M and with his own

in the whiskies that are produced from

happened to grain flavour, does it affect

doctoral thesis research work.

them. So, to me It depends on how you pursue it. In the end, we’re not bringing

a drink’s taste, and what would it take to reintroduce terroir into the spirits industry.

brewersjournal.info

“Through my PhD studies, we found that

in unknown rare flavour compounds,

JANUARY~FEBRUARY 2022

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61

TRENDING

MORE SALES? So, the question becomes – for both small and large distilleries and breweries – is it worth the effort? “It’s a personal decision that each distillery and brewery is going to have to make.

There is a logistical effort when it comes to highlighting terroir and whiskey and there is a financial burden that’s going to be there because it’s going to cost more than just buying grain from the commodity market,” says Arnold.

“Even if you’re buying from specialty grain brokers that deal with whiskey distilleries and breweries – and especially specialised food producers – you’re still going to pay more than you would with any of the more proven systems.

“It comes down to a lot of things. Is there a market? Is this where you’re going to hang some at your marketing power because it if you’re not going to talk about it, don’t do it, because it’s not worth the effort.

“But if you’re trying to tap into it, you need to look at the new distilleries and especially this whole new movement of craft distilleries. You have this explosion of the number of distilleries that exists now. If you’re going to succeed you have to first in own your own backyard.

“At TX Distillery, we did a great job connecting to the community of Fort Worth. We could tell them that not whether it’s whiskey or wine or beer.

in two-thousand-pound bulk bags, there

only are they drinking local because it’s

In most cases, we’re talking about the

are still the financial and logistical issues

made in this place, but also because

same set of 50 to 80 compounds that

of finding the right farms, harvesting the

the ingredients came from here too.

are important for flavour across all these

identity-preserved grain separately, and

It’s a really powerful message and it’s

beverages. What impacts flavour is

storing the bulk bags between harvests.

obviously a flavour application. But it also goes beyond that, you have the

the concentration of those compound.

Different terroirs will play a role in the

“In addition to these challenges, most

connection to your local region, you have

concentration,” he says.

grain farmers have spent their lives

the ability to create relationships with

selling solely to the grain elevators that

farmers and use that in your messaging.

serve the commodity market.

You have the ability to really focus on

To quote from the book: “Before

sustainability to your area and also tell

making efforts to capture and highlight

that story.”

terroir, large distilleries would need

“For farmers to grow, harvest, store and

to be convinced it’s something real

sell grain that maintains the identity of

and worthwhile and something that

terroir and is destined for whiskey as

In the end, will that lead to more sales

commodity grain elevators can’t deliver.

opposed to a commodity grain elevator,

for your brewery or distillery? “I don’t

To be honest, even most small distilleries

distillers would have to reward them for

know but the whole story together is a

would take some convincing. Although

their efforts.”

powerful, powerful message and it’s an

grain identity preservation is much easier

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JANUARY~FEBRUARY 2022

authentic message,” says Arnold.

BREWERS JOURNAL

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FERMENTATION

PITCHING RATES AND FERMENTATION

HOW MUCH DOES PITCH RATE REALLY MATTER? HERE, PRECISION FERMENTATION LOOK AT THE NUMEROUS FACTORS REQUIRED TO CALCULATE A TARGET PITCH RATE AND SUGGEST SOME EASY WAYS TO DO IT.

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D

oes pitch rate matter?

individual yeast cells may struggle to do

Though not everyone

more work than they can handle. They

agrees, prevailing wisdom

can reproduce too many times in order

strongly suggests that

to compensate, which increases the

brewers who prioritize

chances of off-flavours.

accurate flavours and/or consistency

Low pitch rates raise the odds that

should absolutely pay attention to their

fermentation characteristics like esters

yeast counts.

will develop. This may or may not be a

But how does a brewer calculate what

good thing, depending on your intended

their target pitch rate should be? And

style and flavour profile.

what happens if they over-pitch or under-pitch their yeast? The various

If you over-pitch, or dump in too much

factors required to calculate a target

yeast, your squadron of cells might

pitch rate for beer can make figuring out

over-accomplish its mission, thereby

the formula quite complicated. So let’s

fermenting too fast and stripping the beer

deconstruct the topic and find some easy

of much of its desired character. If you’re

ways to do it.

aiming for esters and other complexities that arise during fermentation, you might

The Oxford Companion to Beer defines

not get them.

pitching as “the process of adding yeast to wort to start fermentation and produce

DETERMINING PITCH RATES

beer.” The brewing dictionary advises: “The term ‘pitching’ may seem to have

Pitch rate depends on original

connotations of a baseball throw, but it

gravity, yeast strain and fermentation

should actually be done gently so as to

temperature. The cooler the

minimize stress on the yeast and ensure

fermentation, the slower the yeast activity

rapid growth.”

to start and the more you need to pitch to get the job done. Lagers fall into this

A pitch rate is simply the number of yeast

category.

cells added to the fermentation tank per volume of wort. Yeast can be added

Because ales ferment warmer they

directly to the wort in dry form or via a

naturally ferment faster, meaning they

wet slurry of propagated yeast. Pitch rate

don’t require as much yeast to jump

calculations vary based on which method

start the process. However, higher

is used.

concentrations of alcohol — in both ales and lagers — can create greater barriers

IMPORTANCE OF PITCH RATE

for the yeast to overcome. Brewers can adjust for this by pitching at a higher rate.

If you want to brew consistent beers, it’s critical to maintain a standard pitch rate

STANDARD PITCH RATES

each time you make the same beer. And as we know, yeast is temperamental. It

Pitch rates are usually expressed as cells

needs just the right conditions to do its

per milliliter. A very broad guideline for

work.

pitching yeast is a generally agreed upon 1 million cells per milliliter per degrees

If you under-pitch, meaning you don’t

Plato. But like almost everything in

add enough yeast to the cooled wort

brewing, the agreement doesn’t extend

waiting inside your fermenter, the

much further than that.

BREWERS JOURNAL

FERMENTATION

In their book, Yeast, for example, Chris

own yeast, frequently pitches cone-to-

lagers and high-gravity beers do best

White and Jamil Zainasheff say they

cone or from a yeast brink, it’s advisable

with double that.

prefer 0.75 million c/ml for many styles

to invest in a 40x microscope and a

of ales and 1.5 million c/ml for a range

hemocytometer in order to count cells in

of lagers but that each brewer should

house.

determine ideal pitch rates for each

For those worried about how granular

Because a low pitch rate creates a higher

unique beer they make. They also note

to get when counting, don’t self-apply

rate of cell growth, under-pitched beer

that when pitching a fresh, lab-grown

too much pressure. The key, according

can develop a host of problems, the

culture, brewers can typically expect to

to White and Zainasheff, is less about

worst of which are infections and off-

be able to cut these pitch rates in half.

focusing on exact counts of cells and

flavors like diacetyl, sulfur, fusel alcohol

more about being consistent with the

and unwanted esters. Gravities may get

overall pitch quantity each time you pitch.

too high and a brewer may end up with a

For more precision, most brewers plug their numbers into a free online pitch rate

THE WRONG PITCH RATE

stuck fermentation.

calculator. Because yeast brands perform

Brewers who choose to save money by

differently from one another, it’s best to

buying relatively small amounts of yeast

Over-pitches are much more forgiving,

use the pitch rate calculator provided

and propagating (AKA “growing”) it into

although they can lead to uber-fast

by your yeast vendor. If you’re relying

larger quantities need to factor in the

fermentations, low ester production, thin

on a chart or your own calculations,

volume of slurry instead of merely the

body, and autolysis, which gives the beer

remember that high-alcohol beers and

total volume of wort.

an unpleasant yeasty flavour.

In the most common type of

However, whereas under-pitching can

propagation, called a “1-Step-10-Fold,” a

be corrected by simply adding a bit more

There are several ways to get an

brewer inoculates a little bit of wort, lets

yeast, over-pitching is impossible to

accurate cell count of your pitch. Many

it attenuate 50-75% then adds ten times

rectify. So if you’re unsure of the correct

yeast providers will include a guaranteed

that amount of oxygenated wort on top.

volume to pitch, it could be beneficial

“live cell per milliliter” with any fresh

According to Wyeast, ales and wheat

to aim slightly lower, then perform a

liquid pitch, or dormant cell per gram for

beers fermented this way call for a pitch

cell count of the fresh wort, and correct

dry yeast. If your brewery propagates its

rate of 1 litre of yeast per barrel, while

accordingly.

those fermented with Brettanomyces carry specific considerations.

brewersjournal.info

JANUARY~FEBRUARY 2022

|

65

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PakTech has Repurposed over a Half Billion Containers into Packaging Handles

CANNING

CANNING

CAMERON’S NEW CANNING CAPABILITIES

BY INVESTING IN A NEW CAN FILLER CAMERONS BREWERY, WHICH OFFERS A RAFT OF SERVICES TO THE BREWING INDUSTRY, IS NOW CAPABLE OF ACHIEVING OUTPUT SPEEDS TWICE IT COULD PREVIOUSLY. THIS IS HOW THEY DID IT.

brewersjournal.info

C

amerons Brewery carries

can be in multiple steps and varying

out a wealth of contract

times – all set from the operator panel.

brewing and kegging services for many

Foam control is set from the panel and

international brewers

can be altered and saved for different

and brands. Six years ago they added a

beers such as nitrogenated releases. As

contract bottling facility with equipment

the filling valves are recipe controlled it

supplied by Enterprise Tondelli which

also means that should the filler bowl

enabled them to offer an integrated

stop with cans on the carousel they will

brewing and bottling service to their

complete their total filling cycle even

customers. In 2019, they added a contract

though the filler is static which stops

canning line also from Enterprise Tondelli.

overfills. The concept is to make the

Now, Camerons Brewery has upgraded

machine as operator friendly as possible

their canning facility with a faster can

so that it can be as flexible as possible

filler so the line output is now double

without incurring costs for specialist

the initial speed. The new filler, supplied

programming engineers.

by Enterprise Tondelli, from their

To reduce wastage and give a much

manufacturing partners in Italy, Matrix

more accurate fill volume, flow meters

Srl has features that make it world class.

are fitted on every filling valve. Typically a

Incidentally the bottle filler was also

fill accuracy of +/- 2ml is achieved. It also

manufactured by Matrix Srl.

means that fill volumes can be adjusted

Typically can fillers have an annular

from the control panel for the different

ring filler bowl which is difficult to clean.

cans sizes being handled.

However, the new Matrix can filler has a central filler bowl with a CIP spray ball

There is a feedback loop to the operator

for enhanced cleaning. The cans are

panel so you can see the filling trend

static so there are no can lifters with can

of each and every filling valve whilst

turbulence and attendant maintenance

running. The flow meters are available

requirements. Filling valves only move

“off the shelf” as a proprietary component

5 mm to seal the can for flushing then

reducing the total cost of ownership.

filling. This means very little mechanical

Using flow meters also gives very very

wear and tear and a much smoother can

low TIPO.

progress.

The constructional style of the machine

The filling system is using a well proven

is focused on hygiene with the filler

electro pneumatic control system that

bowl area exposed or “naked” so that

has been used by Matrix for a number

external cleaning is very easy. Historically,

of years now across both the bottle and

manufacturers have fitted a cover but this

can filler range. It significantly reduces

often ends up hiding an unhygienic area

maintenance, makes the filling operation

so this bold step obviates that problem.

more reliable and also much more

It also means that maintenance is much

controllable.

easier as access is very open.

For instance the flushing cycle of the

A separate valve skid makes connection

machine is recipe driven from the control

to the machine for the services a very

panel along with the snifting cycles.

quick and easy operation. The skid

This can be pre-set by the customer

includes the CIP return pump to ensure

for all the different beers and the filling

that cleaning is fully carried out at the

characteristics they may have. Snifting

correct flow rate. For an effective CIP the

JANUARY~FEBRUARY 2022

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67

CANNING

Cameron’s has significantly boosted its canning capabilities since the investment

Another Matrix can filler recently supplied

degrees C. along with fill hot filled juices

by Enterprise sported a rotary rinser as

with a volumetric filling valve. During the

part of the can filler/seamer bloc. This is

filling of juices at high temperature the

a concept first used by Enterprise in 2001

filler does not recirculate the product.

and it is especially suited where short

However should there be a stoppage

stack cans are used.

then a recycling mini valve actually fitted on the filling valve bloc recirculates the

machine automatically cleans the filler product pathways, snifts etc with a 10

The other advantage is that it guarantees

product back to the flash pasteuriser for

step sequence!

jetting and draining times for greater

processing.

The filler has been in for some months

product security as the rinsing nozzle

now and has exceeded the customer

follows the can on the carousel unlike a

This ensures a temperature always

expectations. Chris Deakin, brewing

gravity can rinser where the rinse nozzle

of +/-1 degrees C. during the filling

operations director at Camerons Brewery

is static. For hygiene the unit is also fitted

operation regardless of filler condition.

said: “ The new can filler has been an

with hepa filtration and will be used for

Historically the recirculation valve on a

excellent upgrade to our canning line.

beer filling on sleek 330 ml cans. Change

carbonated filler would have been on

Both the TIPO and also filling speed has

parts will allow the unit to fill carbonated

the product inlet meaning a bowl full of

exceeded contractual obligations. The

soft drinks in 330 ml standard cans too.

product out of specification. Just another

machine has required very little input

Other new can fillers from Matrix include

example of innovative solutions and

from ourselves and maintenance has

one for 36,000 cans per hour but able

quality available from Enterprise Tondelli

been vastly improved.”

to fill carbonated soft drinks filling at 2-4

and their manufacturing partners.

68

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JANUARY~FEBRUARY 2022

BREWERS JOURNAL

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CANNING

CONTRACT CANNING VS CANNING IN-HOUSE THERE ARE MANY FACTORS TO CONSIDER WHEN WEIGHING UP THE PROS AND CONS OF USING A CONTRACT CANNING SERVICE OR INVESTING IN YOUR OWN CANNING LINE. EQUIPMENT SUPPLIERS, VIGO LTD, TAKE US THROUGH THE KEY CONSIDERATIONS.

U

sing a professional and

some aspects you will need to consider

experienced contract

carefully, however, with contract canning:

canning service is an excellent way of testing

HIGH DEMAND

your market. In terms of

70

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JANUARY~FEBRUARY 2022

outlay and resources, less commitment is

Once your sales of canned product have

required from you. It is possible to work

proved successful, you will inevitably

on a batch-by-batch basis, as opposed to

look to book additional packing dates.

sustaining production targets to maintain

The challenge within the UK, however, is

the maximum efficiency of an in-house

that the number of contract and mobile

line, for example.

canning lines has not grown in line with

You will also have the benefit of

demand, so booking these slots within

acclimatising yourself with the practical

your required timeframes can prove

aspects of canning at a steadier pace.

challenging. If this is the case, you

Like any new production method,

will have to fit in with the production

canning is learning curve which requires

schedules of the contract canners and

an understanding of procedures,

take whichever slot is offered. This

parameters, and the lingo. There are

can mean you are unable to be as

BREWERS JOURNAL

CANNING

production tank into transport tank, to haulier, and again on arrival to packing tank and canning line. This carries an element of risk, which can be removed if the product is kept and packed on the same site, whether via a mobile canning service or your own in-house canning line.

FLEXIBILITY Being able to split your packaging based directly on demand into different formats (can/bottle/keg) means that you are not holding stock in one format which would otherwise have been sold. When sending batches off for contract packaging, you are required to estimate in advance where demand might come from.

This prevents you from being as flexible as you could be if you had packaging equipment in-house. From our experience, flexibility has been one of the key motivations of our customers when purchasing a canning line. Many customers who had purchased canning lines and could also bottle in-house reported that it was this flexibility that enabled them to be spontaneous during spontaneous as you need to be in terms

to protect product integrity. Excellent

the pandemic, meeting both the small

of canning to meet demand. By contrast,

hygiene standards and thorough

pack demand, and the varying ratio

your own (in-house) canning line is ready

record keeping are also of paramount

requirements of cans to bottles from

and available at extremely short (if any)

importance. Quality control, therefore,

week to week.

notice.

is one of the key considerations when choosing a contract canner.

PAYBACK & FINANCE

Most producers looking to purchase a

Budget inevitably needs to be set aside

It goes without saying that quality control

canning line and can in-house want the

for contract canning. Whilst charges

is a critical part of your production. As

ease of mind of taking ownership of the

initially aren’t going to match those

with the service industry in general, some

final product from production through to

of investing in a new canning line, as

providers will be more stringent than

packaging. They want to be in full control

demand increases for your canned

others in terms of their quality assurance

of the whole packaging process, quality

product and you put ever increasing

and quality control measures. When

assurance and quality control.

volumes into cans, it will become more

QUALITY CONTROL

efficient production-wise to invest in your

canning, for example, checking the quality of the can seal and the product’s

When contract canning is carried out off-

own craft canning line. Payback can be

dissolved oxygen levels are two of the

site, there are inevitably costs involved

surprisingly quick and from then on you

many essential safeguards required

in moving product physically from

should be into cost saving (production)

brewersjournal.info

JANUARY~FEBRUARY 2022

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71

CANNING territory. Funding from the EU in terms of grants is of course no longer an option, but it is encouraging that there are capital equipment grants still available on a local authority level which our customers have been exploring, particularly those which link in with tourism and the environment.

There is also the option of equipment finance.

CONSIDERATIONS We’ve heard quite a few accounts from brewers of the pitfalls they have encountered after purchasing a canning line from a supplier or manufacturer they wish they hadn’t bought from. These include: u Poor fabrication quality of machine/ line u Dissolved oxygen levels that don’t match the manufacturer’s specification, leading to quality issues and shelf life problems u Machine/line not supplied within specified timeframe due to overexaggerated lead times u Snagging issues not sorted out after delivery, having paid the full amount u Supplier goes bust and all deposits are lost u Lack of backup - engineers unavailable or based overseas and unable to get over due to travel restrictions u Waiting two or three weeks for spare parts

TOP TIPS FOR BUYING A CANNING LINE

engineering back-up when they have

engineers, workshop facilities, installation

issues?

experience, trouble-shooting, speed of

2. Consider the total cost of ownership:

response, spare parts availability, etc.

It’s tempting to look at the ‘bottom line’

5. Think longer term: Carefully consider

cost of the equipment but there are other

your potential growth. It’s easy to scale

costs to factor in, including maintenance/

yourself back by choosing the smallest,

Assuming you already checked out the

servicing and repairs.

least expensive option to save a few

specification and features of the canning

3. Check out the supplier’s experience

thousand pounds. Those that do so,

equipment on offer, here are our top

& installations: Ask about their recent

however, find that they have outgrown

tips if you are considering purchasing a

installations and where you can see a line

their line in a very short space of time. In-

canning line ...

working

vesting badly can mean investing twice,

4. Research the level of backup the

so think about where you could well be,

1. Speak to other brewers who have

supplier/manufacturer offers: What is

production-wise, in year 2, year 3 or even

invested in a canning line: What was their

their engineering provision? Where is

year 5. It’s worth spending more initially

experience? How does the canning line

the support coming from - within the

to reduce your time canning in future,

work for them? What support do they

UK, on the continent, or the other side

as and when demand increases. Ask,

receive from the supplier/manufacturer

of the world? What does their support

will the line accommodate any future

in terms of maintaining their line and

consist of in terms of the number of

growth?

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BREWERS JOURNAL

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BREWING EQUIPMENT

UALITY M

www.fawcett-maltsters.co.uk +44 (0)1977 552490 sales@fawcett-maltsters.co.uk

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PACKAGING AUTOMATION

RECRUITMENT

www.carlingpartnership.com +44 (0)1483 893 100 Ska Fabricating designs and builds reliable, automated packaging line equipment that is hand-crafted to make craft businesses’ lives easier.

YEAST

skafabricating.com +1 (970) 403-8562

PACKAGING HANDLES

MALT CONT'D PakTech designs and manufactures 100% recycled, recyclable and reusable packaging handles. PakTech is the smart and sustainable packaging solution.

Supported by decades of long-standing industry experience, an extensive support network and strong technical expertise, Lallemand Brewing is positioned to help your brewery achieve its growth and quality goals. www.lallemandbrewing.com +44 (0)7930 451687

www.paktech-opi.com handlesales@paktech-opi.com Phone: +1.541.461.5000 www.simpsonsmalt.co.uk +44 (0)1289 330033

QUALITY ASSURANCE PACKAGING

We supply the finest quality kegs & casks in the world, manufactured to the highest industry specifications. We provide 50 litre kegs, 30 litre kegs, 4.5 gallon Pins & 9 gallon Casks.

Fermentis is an expert in the art of fermentation.

Our active dry yeasts and yeast derivatives cover almost all professional requirements: from safeguarding production to expressing sensory characteristics.

Discover our products on www.fermentis.com Contact us at fermentis@lesaffre.com

Bringing Quality Control To Your Brewery Analytical Products for Beer Chemistry and Microbiology

www.keglogistics.com/united-kingdom

+44 (0)7734 035562 SHorrox@keglogistics.com

01342 820820 www.qclbrewing.com

YOUR ADVERT HERE FOR A WHOLE YEAR josh@rebymedia.com +44 (0)1442 780 594

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BREWERS JOURNAL

NEW! VARIETIES AVAILABLE The brewing industry’s coolest hop product is now available in even more varieties for 2022!

• AZACCA® BRAND • HBC 586

• CRYSTAL • COMET

• IDAHO GEM™ • TRIUMPH

Current varieties available also include: Ahtanum® Brand, Amarillo® Brand, Cascade, Centennial, Chinook, Citra® Brand, Columbus, Ekuanot® Brand, El Dorado® Brand, HBC 472, HBC 630, Idaho 7® Brand, Loral® Brand, Mosaic® Brand, Palisade® Brand, Sabro® Brand, Simcoe® Brand & Talus™ Brand

For more information, or to place a Cryo Hops® order, email EUsales@yakimachief.com.

Great Beers Begin with Muntons’

Brewing Ingredients Muntons is renowned for the manufacture and supply of 100% sustainable, low carbon, premium quality brewing malts. Offering a full portfolio from whole and crushed malt to brewing extracts, Muntons ingredients are the start of great beers. Muntons love to collaborate with customers, giving access to their technical team and nano-brewery to find new and exciting ways to enhance beer recipes, improve efficiencies and create innovative products to take to the market.

MUNTONS. MAKE IT HAPPEN. MUNTONS DIRECT SALES DAVID HANNAH Brewing & Distilling Malt Sales Manager Scotland & Northern England 07525 809093 david.hannah@muntons.com @MuntonsDavid

ADAM DARNES Brewing & Distilling Malt Sales Manager Midlands, Yorkshire & Lancashire 07795 920922 adam.darnes@muntons.com @MuntonsAdam

JOSEPH FIFIELD Brewing & Distilling Malt Sales Manager London, Southern England & Wales 07583 048935 joseph.fifield@muntons.com @MuntonsJoe

DISTRIBUTOR SALES TOTAL BREWING SUPPLIES, offering bespoke services and deliveries for smaller minimum order quantities of Muntons malt in the East Midlands, Lincolnshire, Yorkshire, Bedfordshire and Cambridgeshire area. @totalbrewinguk 01636 823909 | gary@totalbrewingsupplies.co.uk |

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