THE MAGAZINE FOR THE PROFESSIONAL BREWING INDUSTRY
BREWERS
J O U R N A L
JULY~AUGUST 2022 | VOLUME 8, ISSUE 4 ISSN 2059-6669
WHIPLASH BEER Ripping up the rule book in the Republic of Ireland 32 | JOHN KEELING: WE ALL NEED GOOD FRIENDS
47 | BREWING IN BELGIUM: A BEER ODYSSEY
62 | PHANTOM BREWING: BRILLIANT BEER IN BERKSHIRE
2022: CHAPTER TWO
H
ello and welcome to the
In this edition we feature our profile
latest edition of The Brew-
on Whiplash Beer. It was a pleasure to
ers Journal. If you needed
visit the team in Ballyfermot in April. A
any reminding, it’s now
brewery born in the Republic of Ireland
July. It feels as the year
but very much of international standing,
has just started, but no, we’re halfway
Whiplash has become a byword for qual-
through. Festival season is in full-flow
ity in the world of modern beer. Found-
and schedules and plans are no doubt
ed by Alex Lawes and Alan Wolfe, and
already turning to the autumn and winter
backed by a team from across the globe,
months that lie ahead. I know that’s the
Whiplash has made its name thanks to
case for the team here.
beers of countless styles all underpinned by a meticulous pursuit of quality.
In the first half of 2022 we’ve hosted our Brewers Lectures in Leeds, Edinburgh,
Whiplash is a brewery that is having a
Birmingham and Brighton. A huge thank
stellar 2022 and one that’s only getting
you to the speakers, sponsors and every-
better. But they’ve worked immensely
one that came along. We have another
hard to get there, and it’s great to have a
Brewers Lectures event in Cardiff this
brewery from the Republic of Ireland on
September, but from the start of this year
the cover of this publication for the very
the focus has also well-and-truly been
first time.
LEADER
on the Brewers Congress. Taking place at
brewersjournal.info
The Business Design Centre in London
In addition to a wealth of articles, we also
on the 8th and 9th December, it will be
have the lowdown on Phantom Brew-
the biggest event we’ve ever done.
ing. A brewery founded by two lifelong friends bonded by a love of sport, Blink
This year, The Brewers Congress is big-
182 and brilliant beer, Phantom Brewing
ger than ever, with two days of exhibition
has swiftly become one of the breweries
and talks, and one massive Christmas
putting Reading on the map for fans of
Party where we will crown the winners of
this beautiful beverage. And they’re not
the 2022 Brewers Choice Awards.
stopping there.
In 2022, we have nine categories you can
“Producing many different beers keeps
enter or nominate in. These are, as fol-
things enjoyable for us as a team. We
lows: Brewery of the year, New brewery
are always learning, exploring new
of the year, Brewer of the year, Young
techniques and trying different things. It
brewer of the year, Beer of the year, New
keeps things interesting and keeps things
beer of the year, Branding of the year,
diplomatic. too,” co-founder Dom Gemski
Lifetime achievement and Global ambas-
told us.
sador. Entries for this year’s awards close on the 31st July, with full information
Until next time!
available via this address: www.brewersjournal.info/awards/
Tim Sheahan Editor
JULY~AUGUST 2022
|
3
IT’S MORE THAN A BOX OF HOPS IT’S SUPPORTING FAMILY FARMS
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JULY~AUGUST 2022
CONTENTS
Comment | US beer trends Lotte Peplow, Brewers Association American Craft Beer Ambassador for Europe, shares highlights of the recent Craft Brewers Conference and World Beer Cup in Minneapolis, and what that means for the rest of the world.
27
Dear John John Keeling has brewed many beers and visited countless countries during his career in beer. But for John, the most valuable asset has been the friends he has made in that time.
32
Crossing Continents | Belgium Paul Davies is no stranger to Belgium and the beers, revered around the world, produced across the country. In this article he pays homage to the fine producers of Oud Bruin before making the journey to Dag van de Oude Geuze and the stunning breweries and blenderies he’d visit along the way.
47
Case Study | Finance When a Plymouth-based brewery was targeting expansion, it turned to a local business that provides viable SMEs and start-ups with access to finance through dedicated business loan funds in the South West.
56
Ingredients | Stabilisation Silvateam on what tannins have long been a traditional route for beer stabilization and embraced today by many breweries.
59
Science | Fermentation control In the latest instalment of the series, Tim O’ Rourke, the technical editor of The Brewers Journal places the spotlight on fermentation control.
68
18 Talking Point
Tim O’Rourke, technical editor at The Brewers Journal, shares his experiences on beer judging across the globe, and the knowledge he has gained along the way.
6
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JULY~AUGUST 2022
BREWERS JOURNAL
CONTACTS Tim Sheahan Editor tim@reby.media +44 (0)1442 780 592 Velo Mitrovich Deputy Editor velo@reby.media +44 (0)1442 780 591
34
Tim O’Rourke Technical Editor tim.orourke@reby.media Josh Henderson Head of sales josh@reby.media +44 (0)1442 780 594
Meet The Brewer | Whiplash Beer
A brewery born in the Republic of Ireland but of international standing, Whiplash has become a byword for quality in the world of beer.
Jon Young Publisher jon@reby.media Reby Media 6 Grove Road, Hemel Hempstead, Herts, HP1 1NG
62
Brewery Tour | Phantom Brewing
A brewery founded by two lifelong friends, Phantom Brewing has swiftly become one of the breweries putting Reading on the map for fans of this beautiful beverage. And they’re just getting started.
27
Comment | US beer trends
Lotte Peplow, Brewers Association American Craft Beer Ambassador for Europe, shares highlights of the recent Craft Brewers Conference and what that means for the rest of the world.
brewersjournal.info
SUBSCRIPTIONS The Brewers Journal is a published 1six times a year and mailed every January, March, May, July, September and November. Subscriptions can be purchased for six issues. Prices for single issue subscriptions or back issues can be obtained by emailing: subscribe@reby.media
UK & IRELAND £29 INTERNATIONAL £49 The content of The Brewers Journal is subject to copyright. However, if you would like to obtain copies of an article for marketing purposes high-quality reprints can be supplied to your specification. Please contact the advertising team for full details of this service. The Brewers Journal is printed at Manson Group, St Albans, UK.
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or any information storage or retrieval system, without the express prior written consent of the publisher. The Brewers Journal ISSN 2059-6650 is published bimonthly by Reby Media, 6 Grove Road, Hemel Hempstead, Hertfordshire, HP1 1NG. Subscription records are maintained at Reby Media, 6 Grove Road, Hemel Hempstead, Hertfordshire, HP1 1NG. The Brewers Journal accepts no responsibility for the accuracy of statements or opinion given within the Journal that is not the expressly designated opinion of the Journal or its publishers. Those opinions expressed in areas other than editorial comment may not be taken as being the opinion of the Journal or its staff, and the aforementioned accept no responsibility or liability for actions that arise therefrom.
JULY~AUGUST 2022
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S P E C I A LT Y TA N N I N S
NEWS
NEW BOILER TECHNOLOGY UNVEILED
B
rewers could cut their carbon footprint using a new type of electric
HONESTBREW FALLS INTO ADMINISTRATION Online beer retailer HonestBrew has fallen into administration. Allister Manson and Steven Parker of Opus Restructuring LLP were appointed joint administrators of the company on 17 June, with the company having ceased trading on the 14th June.
storage boiler. The patented technology, developed by British startup Caldera, can generate process heat or steam for brewing without
In a statement, the company said: “Since
the use of carbon-emitting gas or oil.
the beginning, HonestBrew has been on
Caldera storage boilers use a solid material which is heated up using
a mission to get the world to drink better
surplus energy from wind farms and on-site renewables such as solar PV. This
beer. We have brought you styles from
energy is then stored with very high efficiency and released when required as
all over the world, including some that
high-pressure steam.
many of you have never even heard of.
The Southampton firm is already producing a domestic scale heat store, which is
Including some that many of you wish
currently being rolled out in a number of trial homes countrywide. They are now
you’d never heard of.
seeking to scale up their product for industry and have secured a £295,000 grant from the Department of Business Energy & Industrial Strategy (BEIS) to investigate
“It has been our job. It has been our pas-
the design and build of a UK factory capable of rolling out Caldera storage boilers
sion. It has been our lives. Like so many
at scale.
others, we worked hard to overcome the challenges of the last couple of years. We didn’t always get things right, but we tried to approach every problem with honesty and best intentions. However, the current trading environment has proved to be one challenge too far, and on the 14th of June, we made the difficult decision to stop taking new orders. “We are very keen to ensure that all of our customers are looked after, particularly those of you with unused cash deposits. We have been working closely with a fellow craft beer pioneer to work out how best to do this, and you will be contacted in the coming days with more details.
Caldera CEO James Macnaghten, said: “Industrial steam makes up 31 percent of
“It just remains for us to say a big thank
the UK’s total industrial heat requirement and is a major element of the brewing
you to everyone who has supported us
process. This is normally provided by multiple steam boilers and accumulators that
over the last nine years, whether as a
burn gas or oil. Banks of solid-state electric storage boilers can be charged up by
customer, supplier or investor – some-
off-peak renewables and on-site solar PV and can hold this heat for hours, ready
times all three. We hope that we have
to deliver high pressure steam as required at temperatures up to 200C. This will
been able to inspire you to try things that
enable brewers to switch off fossil fuels as their primary fuel source, enabling an
you’d never have imagined you would
easily adopted route to low carbon electrical power.
like, and if we could choose our own leg-
“In addition, industrial steam boilers and steam accumulators store large quantities
acy, it would be for you to continue that
of superheated water, which brings significant cost and safety implications requir-
journey of discovery.
ing continuous manning and detailed annual inspection. The adoption of electric storage boilers avoids these risks due to the low quantity of water used without
“Wishing you all the best, Frank and the
combustion.”
HonestBrew Team.”
brewersjournal.info
JULY~AUGUST 2022
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11
NEWS
OAKHAM’S BYRAN RETIRES
Pure Booch supports the brewers move
pandemic and continue to do to support
away from conventional plastic labels, in
the sector I am so passionate about.”
favour of a new sustainable wood-based alternative.
Oakham Ales’ head brewer John Bryan has retired, after more than 26 years at the pioneering Peterborough-based brewery. An innovative and hugely influential figure in UK brewing, John joined Oakham in October 1995. Within weeks he was promoted to Head Brewer on the retirement of Oakham’s founder John Wood. A 2009 visit to US hop fields was to go down in brewing history. He was intro-
VOCATION BREWERY LAUNCHES DUO OF BEERS INTO SAINSBURY’S
duced to a remarkable new hop varie-
BIG SMOKE BREW CO LAUNCHING TWO NEW LHR SITES Independent Surrey-based brewer, Big Smoke Brew Co, and Airport Retail
ty – Citra. He was so excited by Citra’s
Vocation is launching a duo of new beers
Enterprises (ARE) are launching two new
potential that he sent his share home
into Sainsbury’s stores nationally in time
independent craft beer and food destina-
by air in order to brew with it as soon as
for the summer, called Day Trip and Sun-
tions at Heathrow’s Terminals 3 and 5 this
possible.
set Overdrive.
summer.
Blown away by the variety’s powerful cit-
Day Trip is a new Pale Ale which is
The Oceanic in Terminal 3 and The Globe
rus and tropical fruit aromas and flavours,
brewed using Mosaic and Galaxy hops to
in Terminal 5 will serve Big Smoke’s core
John’s initial idea was to brew a strong,
produce a hop-forward, full-bodied beer
range of beers and gins, accompanied by
single-hop Citra IPA. The legend that is
with a hint of citrus, peach and passion-
seasonal food and friendly service.
Oakham Ales Citra was born.
fruit flavours. At 5% abv it is suitable for
Opening in June 2022, the pubs will fea-
Upon retiring, brewing will be left in the
everyday summer occasions.
ture Big Smoke’s modern design aesthet-
safe hands of newly appointed head
Sunset Overdrive is a Piña Colada sour
ic and warm and welcoming atmosphere.
brewer Mark Tetlow. He has more than
beer which provides the perfect cocktail
As a nod to the past, “The Oceanic”
30 years of experience in the brewing
of bold fruity flavours with its notes of
references the original name of Terminal
industry. He is overseeing the Oakham
pineapple, coconut and tangerine. At
3 which opened as the Oceanic Terminal
team including lead brewer Ed Sharman
5.5% abv, it is a beer to be enjoyed with
in 1961. “The Globe” is an acknowledge-
and quality brewer Stewart Poulter.
friends on warm summer days.
ment of the breadth of international destinations to which Heathrow’s Terminal 5
EMMA MCCLARKIN AWARDED OBE
connects.
Chief Executive of the British Beer & Pub
Leeds-based Amity has appointed three
Association Emma McClarkin has been
new starters and has promoted two team
Purity Brewing Company has launched
awarded an OBE in the Queen’s Birthday
members as it continues its expansion.
Pure Booch, a range of authentically
Honours List, for services to the beer and
The new Head Brewer, Tom Summer-
slow-brewed ‘pure’ kombucha drinks,
pub industry.
scales, was educated in Brewing and
and the brewer’s first foray into a cat-
The award recognises Emma’s service to
Distilling at Heriot Watt university before
egory outside of the beer market in its
the industry since joining the British Beer
gaining experience from well-known
18-year history.
& Pub Association in 2019, in particular
Yorkshire breweries Vocation Brewery
Authentically slow brewed Pure Booch
her support and championing of the
and Kirkstall Brewery.
is low in sugar, naturally flavoured and
industry throughout the pandemic.
free from preservatives, and from launch
In response to receiving the award she
Joining Tom are new bar team members
is available in four flavours – Original,
said: “I am delighted and humbled to
Sam Farrer and Malika Dennis-Winfield
Ginger and Lime, Cranberry, and Grape-
receive this honour. It is truly wonderful
along with promotions for current bar
fruit, across three strikingly designed
to receive this recognition on behalf
team members Jake Green moving to
formats – 330ml cans, 250ml bottles and
of the beer and pub sector and for the
assistant brewer and Tina Rimmer as a
1l bottles. In line with the Purity’s strong
incredible work the British Beer and Pub
marketing executive.
environmental ‘Pure ECO’ credentials,
Association have done throughout the
PURITY DIVERSIFY WITH KOMBUCHA OFFERING
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JULY~AUGUST 2022
AMITY BREW CO EXPANDS
BREWERS JOURNAL
Geterbrewed is launching a brand-new range of brewing yeasts. They’ve partnered with AEB as their distributor of brewing yeast for brewers in UK & Ireland. AEB Brewing is a leader in yeast, fermentation, and biotechnologies in brewing and winemaking. Headquartered in Italy, AEB’s heritage dates to 1963 with the founding of the Agency of Enology of Brescia - hence AEB! Today, as an innovator AEB looks to continually develop new applications and enhance sustainable process technologies, bringing their knowhow from oenology to the world of brewing. Geterbrewed was established in 2013 and we’re expanding at an unprecedented rate as the number one choice for brewing ingredients. We’re a true One-Stop Shop for brewers and we boast a diverse portfolio of products, distributing brewing ingredients and equipment for leading global suppliers.
“We are delighted to welcome Geterbrewed as our UK based distribution partner. It makes perfect sense to partner with an established and reputable distributor, one that shares our values when it comes to product quality and customer support.” says Elena Guglierame, Chief Digital & Marketing Officer
Geterbrewed is an independent family business, and we pride ourselves in fulfilling our customers’ expectations, building long-term relationships, and making sure our customers have access to the finest brewing ingredients - backed by a personal service and full technical support.
We supply from two purpose-built distribution centres: from our HQ in Northern Ireland and from our distribution warehouse in Dundalk, Ireland. Our warehouse team pack and dispatch orders 12 hours per day, 7 days per week, so you can expect the fastest dispatch and delivery in the industry.
The AEB - Geterbrewed Partnership means we can offer our customers a unique portfolio of brewing yeast as well as tap into AEB’s vast knowledge of developing aroma and flavour in winemaking so that brewers can create beers with distinct tastes. Winemakers have been light years ahead in terms of expressing aromas and flavours with yeast, and we’re excited to see what delicious beers brewers will create with this new range of AEB Brewing yeast that Geterbrewed will be supplying.
“We are very excited by this new partnership – with this joint commitment we can now offer our brewing customers AEB’s high quality yeast while continuing to provide our customers with exceptional service.” says Jonathan Mitchell, managing director of Geterbrewed. Checkout the new range of AEB Brewing Yeast now available from Geterbrewed at
WWW.GETERBREWED.COM (£) WWW.GETERBREWED.IE (€)
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HK_AZ_A5_quer_BrewersJournal _RZ.indd 1
26.04.21 18:46
BREWERS CONGRESS 2022 TWO DAYS OF LECTURES
TWO DAYS OF EXHIBITS
PLATINIUM SPONSORS
ONE NIGHT OF CELEBRATION
UNLIMITED BEER TASTING
8-9 DECEMBER
AT THE BDC, LONDON, UK GOLD SPONSORS
BREWERS CONGRESS SPEAKERS KEYNOTE | JAMIL ZAINASHEFF
DR DAWN MASKELL, ASSOCIATE PROFESSOR, HERIOTWATT UNIVERSITY
Jamil Zainasheff is an award-winning
acclaimed brewing books, Brewing
brewer, author, beer judge, and
Classic Styles and Yeast: The Practical
podcaster. He is the only person ever to
Guide to Beer Fermentation.
achieve the goal of a first place medal in
In 2011 Jamil and Liz launched Heretic
every recognized beer, wine, and cider
Brewing Company. In 2017, they added
style.
a distillery to the mix, featuring uniquely
Jamil has published more than 90
flavored vodkas, gins, whiskeys, and a
articles and has co-authored two highly
line of ready to drink cocktails.
FERGAL MURRAY, HEAD JENN MERRICK, BREWER, DUBLIN CITY MANAGING DIRECTOR, BREWING CO BIG SMOKE BREW CO
ANDRES FURUKAWA, MATT GIFFEN, BREWING TECHOLOGIST, FOUNDER, BENCH AEB GROUP BREWING COMPANY
JAMIE JURADO, CONSULTANT MASTER BREWER
The Brewers Congress has outgrown its old venues and has found a new home in the heart of central London at the Business Design Centre. Over 2,500 square metres of space to entertain, educate and celebrate the very best of British brewing
Two day congress tickets from £39 inc VAT. Tickets include talks, exhibition and beer. Upgrade to a Full Access pass for the Christmas Party.
FOR TICKETS AND MORE GO TO: BREWERSJOURNAL.INFO/CONGRESS
TALKING POINT
HOW TO JUDGE BEER
WHAT BRINGS US ALL TOGETHER IS A COMMON LOVE OF BEER. HERE TIM O’ROURKE, TECHNICAL EDITOR AT THE BREWERS JOURNAL, SHARES HIS EXPERIENCES ON BEER JUDGING ACROSS THE GLOBE, AND THE KNOWLEDGE HE HAS GAINED ALONG THE WAY.
18
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JULY~AUGUST 2022
W
e use all our
style hoppy lager. Usually this is avoided
senses to evaluate
by grouping similar beers into flights for
and taste beer:
judging. Occasionally experienced beer
Sight, smell, taste.
judges may find themselves required to
Everyone is
decide between a wide range of styles
different, and has different sensitivities
when deciding “Best of Show” or the
to different flavour compounds. Don’t
Champion Beer of Great Britain.
be surprised if some tasters can detect flavours you cannot, they may just
Also, as far as consumers are concerned,
be more sensitive to those specific
grouping beers makes sense. If someone
compounds. Whilst our individual
likes a US style hoppy IPA it is helpful to
ability to detect flavours are based
be able to recommend similar beers to
on our genetics, we can improve our
drink.
ability to recognise and identify unique compounds through training.
Ale styles can be listed in six families including spontaneously fermented
THE LANGUAGE OF FLAVOUR
beers. They have been principally grouped around their heritage and
Having tasted the beer, it is necessary to
history. Probably some of the newer
share the flavours detected with other
styles are under-represented, but many
members of the judging panel. This is
are just variations on styles from the past.
where it is useful to have a common language to describe key beer flavours.
Like all families some are non-
In 1972 the major Beer Associations
conformists or “black sheep” which do
collaborated to develop a Flavour Wheel
not fit neatly into any one category,
which was designed to describe all the
making them difficult to classify and
flavour notes found in beer.
has led to an explosion of beer styles. The most comprehensive style guide
However, for most situations it is over
currently used for competitions is
complicated, and so most companies
published by the BJCP (Beer Judging
use only a small selection of flavours
Certification Programme), the scheme
identified from the beer flavour wheel.
is designed for American Beer Competitions and is an invaluable
DEFINING BEER STYLES
reference but does not always do justice
It is often necessary to organise beers
to UK beers particularly cask conditioned
into similar groups for advertising
& live beers.
descriptions and Beer Judging to
It is important for brewers submitting
compare similar products.
beers for judging to allocate them to the correct style otherwise it will be difficult
It is very difficult to fairly compare the merits of a strong dark beer like an Imperial Stout with a delicate tasting Pils
Figure 1: The biology of taste
BREWERS JOURNAL
TALKING POINT Figure 2: The beer flavour wheel, developed by Dr Morten Meilgaard is an industry standard around the world.
TABLE 1: POSITIVE FLAVOURS Flavour
Description
Malty
Biscuit through top roast from malt grist
Caramel
Toffee, Sweet, Candy
Burnt
Typical of dark malts/Toffee during wort boiling
Spicy
Foind in wheat beers -clove phenolic - 4VG
Hoppy
Hop aromas from late or dry-hop additions
Citrus
Fruity usually from hops or yeast growth
Floral
From hops or esters fiving floral notes
Sweet
Sugary or honey - fault if too high
Bitter
Contribution of iso apha acid to beer
Carbonation
Tingle mouthfeel of carbon dioxide
EVALUATING A BEER Most competitions award beers based on quality (principally absence of flavour faults and presence of positive attributes) and how well they represent the given beer style. In some competitions this is achieved by comparing beers, but increasingly this categorisation has been replaced by the “trueness to type” or comparing the beer with an ideal flavour standard for the particular style under scrutiny. This is done by a points-based system with the combined score of the panel deciding if the beer is worthy of a Gold, Silver or Bronze or no award at all. Not every beer submitted deserves an award.
CHOOSING A WINNER to judge and may not receive the fair
allow sufficient time for cask beer to
recognition that the beer deserves.
fine and drop bright and all containers
Being a Beer judge can be rewarding but
Beers should be received in a timely
to equilibrate. Professional dispense
requires the judge to evaluate the beer
manner and stored appropriately to
systems are essential.
against a standard style profile rather
brewersjournal.info
JULY~AUGUST 2022
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19
TALKING POINT
TABLE 2: NEGATIVE FLAVOURS Flavour
Description
Aldehydic
Raw green apple/varnish by-product of poor yeast growth
Butterscotch
Diacetyl by-product of poor yeast growth
Chloro-Phenolic
Medicinal TCP from water chlorination
Sulphidic
H2S or rotten eggs found as fermentation by-product
Sulphitic
SO2 - burnt matches
Sunstruck
Cooked vegetable from UV light acting on iso alpha acid
Acidic/Sour
Lactic acid - needs balance
Astringent
Harsh aftertaste often confused with bitterness
Stale
Oxidised papery - old beer & poor oxygen control
Beer judging is a team activity and judges should Listen as well as share their opinions. It is based on consensus and conformance to a style, not your personal opinion An appreciation of the main beer styles is necessary, and you should read and consult beer style guides before awarding medals. Remember it is not your preference but how well it matches the style guide. Receiving a medal is important to the Brewers, it gives peer recognition of their “craft” and may help with sales. Make sure every award given is deserved. ➢The Brewer enters the beer competition with expectation of success. If the beer
than whether you like the beer or not.
flavours you cannot recognise and just
does not win it is important to give
Drinkability (how sessionable it is) and
accept the fact. Everyone can taste beer
honest and constructive feedback to
commerciality are really important.
but some people don’t know the typical
the Brewer so he can appreciate the
There are several key factors to consider
terms used to describe the flavours.
judges’ decision. Judging provides an
when judging beer. Human sensitivities
Enthusiastic judges should consider
opportunity to sample and appreciate a
to flavour compounds vary and almost
attending flavour recognition courses to
range of beers. The most important part
everyone is anosmic (blind to certain
improve their skills and become familiar
is to enjoy the experience
flavours), it is helpful to be aware of which
with the beer flavour vocabulary.
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JULY~AUGUST 2022
BREWERS JOURNAL
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COMMENT
POST-PANDEMIC HYGIENE LESSONS
HYGIENE EXPERTISE CAN - AND SHOULD - BE BUILT INTO THE NEW NORMAL. HERE HANCE MCGHIE FROM CHEMISPHERE UK TAKES US THROUGH FIVE LESSONS THAT SHOULD CRAFT NEW PROCEDURES AND OUTLOOKS FOR VENUE OWNERS AND MANAGERS.
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F
irstly - and most importantly cleaning and hygiene should no longer, and never be, an afterthought or something that is taken lightly. Taking a
casual or slapdash approach to cleaning simply isn’t good enough, no matter how relaxed the venue. Taking the time to craft procedures and protocols for staff members to learn and follow is critical to the success of the venue. At a basic level, drawing up a plan and schedule to say how often different surfaces and areas are cleaned - and (importantly) what with - is a good start. Have an opening up routine, clear rules for cleaning during opening hours and a closing/night time plan too.
collateral such as old table menus, but
Print out plans with tick boxes or room for
you can also investigate tech that can
initials, use a wipe clean board to keep
help behind the scenes.
abreast of your schedule, or even use an app and take the time to train staff.
Our sister company, Beer Piper, uses a
Every venue is different, so your schedule
cloud-based mobile app alongside its
and your plan will be unique to you, but
market-leading BP4 beer line cleaning
taking the time to think about it is key.
system. The app logs how often the lines are cleaned ensuring full transparency
If you’re unsure where to start, speak to
and traceability, and the system itself
a cleaning professional for advice or - if
cleans the lines automatically to a very
you’re using Chemisphere’s products
high standard, saving both time and
to ensure your venue is hygienic and
money.
sparkling - we are always on hand to
We have also developed new products
answer any queries and advise as to
that have become critical to venues post-
how best to use each one to get the
pandemic, such as our BlitzAll antiviral
best results and ensure cleanliness at all
and antibacterial fogger, which is a great
times.
solution for venues for both back of house and front of house. The foggers kill
UTILISING NEW CLEANING TECHNOLOGY CAN HELP
99.999% of bacteria, yeast and enveloped
Pandemic restrictions resulted in tech
EMPLOYEE TRAINING IN HYGIENE IS A MUST
being given centre stage in hospitality,
viruses, including COVID19.
and venues have already got to grips with apps and systems for booking,
Investing in staff and their training has
checking in and ordering. These systems
never been more important, and hygiene
all help to minimise the need for too
is absolutely part of this mix. When
much physical contact or tangible
you have developed your cleaning
BREWERS JOURNAL
COMMENT procedures and schedules, take the time
nervous customers, taking the time to
to individually train staff and managers
do this can put their mind at ease and
to complete each task with the correct
ensure they have a pleasant experience.
products and chemicals. Informing and teaching them why different products
EMPLOYEE HEALTH MATTERS
are used for each task is crucial, and will eliminate the possibility of mistakes
The pandemic has taught us that we are
and ensure that they understand the
nothing without our staff members, so
importance of your high standards.
anything that you can do to make sure staff members are healthy and happy
On top of this, investing time and money
is key. Good hygiene practices and
in staff training can only be a good thing
procedures in the venue are important,
when it comes to employee retention,
as they will reduce the risk of any drop in
as it will educate and upskill them and
standards that could result in employee
make them feel like valued and integral
sickness.
members of the team.
If your staff members are customer facing, consider the use of face
COMMUNICATION IS KEY
When your plans and schedules are complete, ensure that you communicate them to customers,” Hance McGhie
coverings, and ensure handwashing is kept up at all times so it becomes
When your plans and schedules are
second nature.
complete, ensure that you communicate them to customers. Whether it’s a
Lastly, prioritise staff wellness and
statement on your website or social
wellbeing by ensuring that team
channels or a notice on the bar,
members go home if they feel unwell
communicating your cleaning policies
and stay off until they are better.
to punters lets them know that you’re taking hygiene seriously. For some more
CUSTOM PRINTED MINI KEGS – A WORK OF ART www.europeanmalt.com
brewersjournal.info
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23
COMMENT
WHAT YOU LEGALLY NEED TO KNOW HOW HARD CAN IT BE TO BECOME A PUBLICAN? HERE PIERS WARNE, A LEGAL DIRECTOR SPECIALISING IN LICENSING AT TLT SOLICITORS AND PART OF THEIR SPECIALIST HOSPITALITY TEAM, OUTLINES SOME OF THE QUESTIONS YOU MAY WANT TO ASK YOURSELF.
S
o, you have decided to sell your keg and cask directly to an eager beer-drinking public. The first decision is: Do you take on an existing
pub, or convert something into one? The former may seem simplest. After all, it is all there and ready to go. But consider the following: If you are leasing a pub from a landlord (especially if you are taking an assignment of an existing agreement with a pub company), will you even be allowed to sell your own beer e.g. are you likely to be ‘tied’ into buying the landlord’s products?
to put on door supervisors, or adhere to
What are the terms of the lease? Are
restrictive conditions that require you to
you responsible for repairs as well as
either spend money or change how you
rent? What will be expected of you when
want to operate?
returning the pub to the landlord at the end of the term?
It is worth thinking about whether you are changing the style of operation
Will you have the right to put up your
of the premises, such as taking a pub
own branding and if so, would any rights
known for live music and turning it into
to that branding revert to the landlord at
a craft beer and a pizza place, as this
the end of the lease?
might indicate whether you will want to
Whether you are buying the freehold
change conditions on the licence. If you
or an existing lease, make sure that you
do, early consultation with the police,
do proper due diligence and searches,
environmental protection and licensing
especially around planning, to ensure
authority will give you a good indication
that the permitted use is properly
as to whether they will support such
covered and there are no hidden
changes- which if they are, will make the
conditions restricting use or hours of
whole process much easier.
operation. It is also worth checking whether you will
CURRENT PREMISES LICENCE
hold the premises licence, or whether your landlord will. If it is the landlord, you
When taking on an existing premises,
might be responsible for costs of making
it is essential that you obtain a full copy
changes, such as change of layout or
of the premises licence, including the
changes to the designated premises
plan attached to it. Ensure the plan
supervisor. If you are, make sure you
matches the layout, in particular that
know what you will be charged for.
any external bars or function rooms are properly shown on the plans and
A BLANK SLATE
licensed where necessary. Secondly,
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check the conditions on the licence
There is a lot to be said for putting
are acceptable and you can work with
location at the heart of what you do and
them. In particular, will you be required
if there isn’t an existing pub that you can
BREWERS JOURNAL
COMMENT take on, converting another premises
things like where a cellar would go and
in life (except the quality of what you are
for that purpose. Firstly, there is a much
how will you fit sufficient toilet provision
brewing) there is often a compromise to
larger stock of buildings and sometimes
into the premises. Is the premises is a
make.
more interesting ones than the pubs in
conservation area where there may be
the area. Secondly, if you are renting the
issues in terms of putting up signage
space, landlords may be more willing to
outside the premises?
offer rent-free periods or help with works
SEEK GOOD ADVICE This is one area where trying to limit
if you are re-inventing a space for them.
Just so it is said, none of these things
costs at the start can backfire. Leasing
That being said if you go down this route,
may be insurmountable, and indeed the
or buying buildings for use as hospitality
consider the following:
fact that you are willing to invest in an
premises requires specialist knowledge.
What planning permission does the
area can be a very strong draw for the
Having someone who understands what
building have and will it need changing
local authority and residents. However, it
is needed to protect you from problems
to allow for it to be used as a pub? Is the
is good to go in with eyes open to avoid
further down the line will pay dividends
building listed?
issues in the future.
later. Remember, this is a long-term investment, so the consequences of poor
Are there residential properties in the
TIMING CAN BE KEY
area that might take exception to a new
decisions early on may not be obvious until much later. Likewise, planning (if
pub opening near them?
One of the likely factors, should you find
needed) and licensing advice (essential)
Are you looking in an area where local
yourself in a position to choose between
will help you to ensure that by the time
council policies clearly state that they do
options, is how quickly do I want to be
you pour that first pint of your latest brew
not want any new alcohol led premises in
up and running? Often buying an existing
in your new pub, it tastes all the sweeter.
the area- either in their planning strategy
pub, even if you need to do works to fit
or in their licensing policy?
it out, is much quicker than starting from scratch. However, ask the question: what
Is the building suitable in terms of
is more important? Moving quickly or
structure for what you are looking to
getting the right premises. Sometimes
do? For instance, don’t overlook simple
you can find both; but like with everything
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brewersjournal.info
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COMMENT
THE FUTURE OF US BEER
LOTTE PEPLOW, BREWERS ASSOCIATION AMERICAN CRAFT BEER AMBASSADOR FOR EUROPE, SHARES HIGHLIGHTS OF THE RECENT CRAFT BREWERS CONFERENCE AND WORLD BEER CUP IN MINNEAPOLIS, AND WHAT THAT MEANS FOR THE REST OF THE WORLD.
brewersjournal.info
T
hat are many aspects about
America for concentrated, affordable
the USA that are big – the
brewing education and idea sharing
country itself, the people
to improve brewery quality and
and, of course, the craft
performance, and the largest industry-
beer scene. So when the
only gathering in the States. Attendees
trade association representing small and
can choose from eight educational tracks
independent American craft brewers, the
led by the top minds in the beer and
Brewers Association, puts on the annual
business worlds (all 184 of them!).
brewing industry conference it doesn’t
One of the many highlights is the general
do so by halves! The Craft Brewers
session on the first morning which
Conference® and Brew Expo recently
included a welcome speech from Bob
took place in Minneapolis, Minnesota and
Pease, CEO/President of the Brewers
attracted over 10,000 industry delegates
Association and a State of the Industry
from all over the world.
address by Chief Economist, Bart Watson. Pease kicked off proceedings by
Here at last was a chance for the industry
touching on the disruption caused by
to get back together after two brutal
the pandemic, supply chain issues and
years caused by the pandemic. Many
inflation but stressed that the American
attendees welcomed the chance to
craft brewing industry had improved in
finally network with long lost international
the last year and the BA was in a strong
colleagues, learn from the wealth of
position to represent the 5,600 craft
information on offer and seek out the
brewery members going forwards.
latest and best products and services
There are now 9,247 craft breweries in
among the 637 exhibitors on the Expo
the USA and openings continue, albeit
floor.
at a slower pace than previous years.
Craft Brewers Conference (CBC) is
In 2021 American craft brewers saw 8%
the number one environment in North
growth, increasing craft beer’s overall
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27
COMMENT market share by volume to 13.1%, up from
prestigious international World Beer
12.2% in 2020. Retail dollar value was
Cup was the largest competition to date
estimated at $26.9 million representing
with 10,542 entries from 2,493 breweries,
26.8% market share in 2021, 21% growth
representing 57 countries. Medals
over 2020.
were awarded to 17 different countries
The always insightful chief economist,
and highlights included Ireland with
Bart Watson was up next and suggested
the highest winning rate of 16.67%, who
2022 was going to be a make-or-break
won gold in the American Style Stout
year for many breweries but there was
category, and Colombia who medalled
nothing in the numbers that indicated
for the first time ever in the Speciality
the demand for craft beer was waning.
Saison category.
Instead, he argued that the industry is
Somewhat predictably, but also
reaching a phase when demand for the
reassuringly, California swept the board
segment as a whole does not guarantee
for medals in the American style IPA
demand for individual businesses.
category, while breweries on the East
The craft beer market is maturing and
coast cleaned up in the juicy/hazy IPA
with it new opportunities but also new
style. German brewers won handsomely
challenges. In order to differentiate
in the majority of lager categories.
themselves breweries need to look for
Chris Swersey, Brewers Association
niches to grow that are outside the IPA
competitions director was given a
category.
standing ovation as he took to the stage
There are now 9,247 craft breweries in the USA and openings continue, albeit at a slower pace than previous years,” Lotte Peplow
to helm his very last competition having They need to re-invent and refresh
overseen and managed the last 30 – 20
themselves in order to stay relevant and
Great American Beer Festival and 10
find new people, new preferences and
World Beer Cup - competitions. He
new places for craft beer. He cited the
leaves the Brewers Association to move
small but rapidly growing no and low
to Australia. I’ll wager there was barely
alcohol sector as an example of success
a dry eye in the house in a poignant,
and proposed that the industry will see
and deeply moving tribute to many
growth where brand meets innovation.
outstanding years of service.
Driven by imperial IPA and hazy/juicy
As the winners were read out certain
IPA, the IPA sector continues to grow
sections of the thousands in the audience
because it continues to evolve and take
screamed with delight, hugged one
on new iterations, but IPA on its own is
another and bounded onto the stage to
not enough for the market to thrive, and
collect their medal, their faces beaming
greater innovation is needed in up-and-
with pride and happiness. The unbridled
coming sectors such as fruit beers, sours
passion for the craft beer industry
and lighter/lower ABV lagers and lighter
amongst the audience was palpable and
ales for beer to stay relevant.
I couldn’t help marvelling that American craft beer has come a long way in a short
Demographics are worth paying attention
space of time and continues to lead and
to as there will soon be more legal
navigate the choppy waters of the global
drinking age Gen Z (born 1996-2010)
craft brewing industry with relentless
than baby boomers (born 1945-1965) in
skill, creativity and innovation. Around
America and 15million more millennials
5% of medals were awarded to American
than either of those two generations.
craft breweries in export markets which
In the last 10 years the average age of
means beer lovers around the world
the craft beer drinker has gone up by
will be able to discover and experience
1.5 years and if that trend continues
world-class winning, high quality
we’re going to be drinking what our
examples of their favourite style.
grandparents drank and seeing a very
It was also announced that the WBC
different marketplace to today.
competition will move from a bi-annual to
The culmination of CBC was the World
annual event beginning in 2023. Brewery
Beer Cup® (WBC) awards ceremony
registration opens in October 2022 with
held on Thursday 5th May at the
awards presented on 10 May 2023 during
Minneapolis Convention Centre. Often
the next Craft Brewers Conference in
called the ‘Olympics of Beer’ this year’s
Nashville, Tennessee, 7-10 May 2023.
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BREWERS JOURNAL
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M U N TO N S . C O M
COMMENT
STANDARDISING DATA COLLECTION IN BREWERIES
MARTYN WILLIAMS, MANAGING DIRECTOR AT COPA-DATA UK, ARGUES THE CASE FOR CROSS-FACILITY DIGITALISATION IN THE BREWING INDUSTRY, AND HOW DATA COLLECTION IN BREWERIES IS VITAL FOR THIS PROCESS.
A
ccording to McKinsey &
company’s bottom line. IoT technologies
Company, Industry 4.0 can
will prove crucial as the beer industry
deliver tangible operational
penetrates into new markets. For
benefits for manufacturers,
instance, a large multinational brewer
one example being
might install sensors throughout its
inventory cost savings of 20 to 50
production line to monitor OEE, and
per cent. Meanwhile, the US National
upgrade its manufacturing execution
Institute of Standards and Technology
systems (MES) to analyse the brewery
predicts smart manufacturing could save
data collected by these sensors.
businesses $57.4 billion yearly in energy, materials and labour.
This process is where some larger
Breweries are no exception, and are
breweries are encountering problems.
increasingly turning to automation and
Managing these large reams of data
the Internet of Things (IoT) technologies
consistently across multiple international
to become more efficient, lean and
sites simply isn’t feasible without
scalable in light of increasing production
software.
and energy costs. Fortunately, industrial software, like
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This is more challenging for brewing
our zenon can play a vital role in
companies that operate different sites
supporting larger manufacturers with
worldwide. For breweries, as with any
data management. zenon makes it
type of manufacturer, poor or outdated
possible to analyse data more efficiently
data management can negatively impact
and effectively within individual plants,
overall equipment effectiveness (OEE),
and new and legacy systems can be
cause unplanned downtime, decrease
integrated into the software platform to
throughput and ultimately damage the
allow overall system improvements.
BREWERS JOURNAL
COMMENT Features of zenon, like its Industrial
origin. A brewing company may find that
operators at other international facilities,
Performance Analyzer, can present
production issues are caused by pressure
who can then investigate if they have the
statistical analysis of equipment faults.
and temperature imbalances, and
same problems or opportunities. Don’t
Production issues, like bottlenecks, can
resolve these issues accordingly within a
underestimate the scale of the benefits
be identified and resolved quickly to
predictive maintenance strategy.
manufacturers can achieve with software.
stop them affecting the bottom line. Take
Industrial software can also support
Going forward, there also is potential to
the case of a brewery that, according
massive improvements in production
combine zenon with other management
to a study by the American Council for
output. A brewery might use digital
systems, like control charts, to make data
an Energy-Efficient Economy (ACEEE),
twinning to compare its actual line
management even more integral to the
was losing up to 10 per cent of its overall
capacity, of 100,000 cases of beer a
production process.
product. Even worse, the cause was
week, against a desired capacity of 2,000
unknown.
cases. Once the digital simulation has
Brewing companies should turn to
identified performance improvements
industrial automation software to avoid
To solve the problem, the brewery used
that can be made to the line, the
falling behind in the competitive global
software and installed 40 sensors at key
manufacturer can link its software to an
market. Automated data collection in
points throughout its production line. It
MES and leverage this data to improve its
breweries will be crucial for preventing
was able to spot exactly where on the
production capacity.
downtime and managing data across multiple international sites, helping
production line losses were being made, and address the issue. This put an end to
MULTISITE IMPROVEMENTS
breweries expand globally.
the manufacturer’s 10 per cent loss. Solutions like this rely on better data
Once an individual brewery has
capture. By linking sensors to software
used data capture to spot flaws or
platforms like zenon, it becomes
improvements, this information can
possible to evaluate the frequency and
be shared with other multinational
duration of problems, and source their
sites. Zenon analyzer can relay data to
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brewersjournal.info
JULY~AUGUST 2022
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31
DEAR JOHN
FRIENDS LIKE THESE F
JOHN KEELING HAS BREWED MANY BEERS AND VISITED COUNTLESS COUNTRIES DURING HIS CAREER. BUT FOR JOHN, THE MOST VALUABLE ASSET HAS BEEN THE FRIENDS HE HAS MADE ALONG THE WAY.
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riends and family are the
was Brendan Bray, Joe Barima and Geoff
most important things about
Warrington who carried me in those days.
life. I was particularly blessed
Then when I became head brewer, my
to work for a company
first decision was to hire Georgina.
like Fuller’s, which really
generated a family-like atmosphere in
Now in many ways she is opposite to me,
the business.
she is hardworking, good on detail, great on the science and controls her temper.
Why did I start the article like this?
An ideal person I thought to carry me in
Because last night there was a Fuller’s
the next stage of my career. Later, I was
reunion party and I was not invited.
fortunate to work with Derek Prentice
In fact, I was told that under no
who is a brewing legend. But it is always
circumstances could I attend. Well, it was
the supervisors and those on shop floor
a Fuller’s ladies reunion night!
who really do the work.
Symone, my partner, was of course
Many people who have worked in
invited. She actually was one of the
other industries have said to me that
main instigators. The event was held at
the brewing industry is the friendliest
the Hydrant, which is located next to
industry. I have never worked anywhere
the Monument in London. Among the
else so who am I to pass judgement on
invitees were Georgina Young, my old
this. However, how many industries have
brewing co-conspirator from Fuller’s
the equivalent of the head brewers group
and now brewing director at St Austell.
where we got together to pass on tips for
Georgina now lives in Bath, so we asked
solving brewing problems and visit each
her to stay in our spare room which she
other’s breweries and socialise?
gratefully accepted. I managed to get all my brewing awards arranged on the
How many would have an organisation
bookcases in the room just before she
like the old Brewers Guild whose
arrived. I thought that was a nice touch.
must important work (in my opinion, of
It was delightful to chew the fat with
course) was to organise social events for
her and hear all the new stuff about the
brewers? I myself was social secretary
industry I love, particularly the part I
for the London Section of the Guild and
worked in - The Family Brewers.
organised many a boat trip upon the Thames. I made many lifelong friends by
I remember reading that Napoleon
being on that committee.
always wanted lucky generals. Well, as a head brewer I always wanted to surround
I now sit on the advisory board for
myself with good brewers and I was
Heriot-Watt University and have made
lucky enough to do this. Starting when I
good friends there, too. There is an
joined Fuller’s to work for the then head
annual reunion dinner for former Heriot-
brewer Reg Drury. At my level though it
Watt brewers held usually every year
BREWERS JOURNAL
DEAR JOHN
in Edinburgh in February or March. Unfortunately, COVID did interfere, and we had no dinner for two years, so the decision was made to hold a dinner in May. I did attend the dinner at the Royal Scots Club, where there was about 40 people in attendance. Usually, we get around 80 but I think it was a good decision to hold an event after such an hiatus. However, there was at least 10 students in attendance all of whom seemed twice as knowledgeable as I was way back in the seventies. So, the industry is still in good hands So, if you can measure your career in terms of the friends you have made, rather than the awards you get, then I have had a truly great career.
brewersjournal.info
“I managed to get all my brewing awards arranged on the bookcases in the room just before she arrived. I thought that was a nice touch,” John Keeling JULY~AUGUST 2022
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WHIPLASH
A FORCE OF NATURE
A BREWERY BORN IN THE REPUBLIC OF IRELAND BUT VERY MUCH OF INTERNATIONAL STANDING, WHIPLASH HAS BECOME A BYWORD FOR QUALITY IN THE WORLD OF MODERN BEER. FOUNDED BY ALEX LAWES AND ALAN WOLFE, AND BACKED BY A TEAM FROM ACROSS THE GLOBE, WHIPLASH HAS MADE ITS NAME THANKS TO ITS METICULOUS PURSUIT OF QUALITY.
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W
hat canapés do
The festival, featuring venerable
you most enjoy
breweries from across the globe such
with your beer
as Barrier, Deya, Finback, Lervig, Lost &
festival pour?
Grounded, Other Half and Stigbergets,
Avocado toast
was the chance for many outfits to
with the Double IPA? Prawn Cocktail to
pour their beers in Ireland for the first
complement that Gose? Or maybe we
time. Not only that, they’d have their
can interest you in a sharp cheddar for
creations imbibed within the resplendent
that viscous Imperial Stout.
surroundings of The Mansion House.
While a world-class beer list was busy
Located on Dawson Street, The Mansion
being curated for the inaugural Fidelity
House, as Lawes explained, has been
festival, held at The Mansion House
the official residence of the Lord Mayor
in Dublin back in early 2019, the team
of Dublin since 1715. Nestled between
behind the event were facing decisions
the picturesque St Stephen’s Green and
of a different kind.
the world-famous Trinity College, Fidelity would take place in the venue’s Round
“The Mansion House is the Mayor of
Room. And it was in these very confines
Dublin’s residence, and as a result they
that in 1919 the first Dáil Éireann was held,
do really great silver service black-tie
making the first definitive parliamentary
events,” recalls Alex Lawes. “We had
move for home rule.
asked what food we could offer from small stands around the venue. We were
Fast-forward a little more than a century,
thinking maybe a burger or hotdog. Stuff
and following a three-year absence,
like that…”
Fidelity returns this month and is, onceagain, a sold-out affair bringing together
Wrong! The only option the fine venue
an acclaimed selection of breweries
could provide were lovely canapés for all
along with an equally-stellar soundtrack
attendees.
to boot.
“They were proposing smoked salmon,
But before then, there are other matters
scallops, mini wellingtons and fine
at hand for team Whiplash. Taking
cheeses…. we did briefly consider it,” he
place at the Glendalough Estate in Co.
laughs. “But it would have more than
Wicklow, Beyond the Pale is a brand new
doubled our ticket price, so we opted
music festival. Not only that, it’s the first
out. Maybe another year we can make
of its size in Ireland to offer patrons local,
Fidelity a black-tie event. That would
independent craft beer exclusively at the
really be a first!”
event’s bars.
Fidelity is the brainchild of Big Romance,
As you’d expect, that has kept the
a self-confessed audiophile pub on
brewery incredibly busy. And Lawes
Dublin’s Parnell Street and Whiplash
couldn’t be happier.
Beer of Ballyfermot, also based in the city. Taking place for the first time in July
“I’ve been smiling from ear-to-ear with
2019, the euphoric sold-out event was an
the amount of Pils coming out of the
opportunity for Lawes, business partner
brewery,” he explains. “It’s been great
Alan Wolfe, and the team to briefly kick-
to have so much of a focus on our core
back following the best part of 18 months
range for a month. It’s the most lager
that “knocked lumps out of us” building
we’ve ever brewed.” Not only that,
their brewery and to formally introduce
attendees can also imbibe the brewery’s
their baby to world.
Body Riddle Pale Ale, the Rollover
BREWERS JOURNAL
Alex Lawes (top left), Alan Wolfe (top right) and members of team Whiplash - April 2022
WHIPLASH it was time for this new outfit to show it
Session IPA or Slow Life, its Nitro Stout.
meant business. And over the course of While 2022 is already panning out to be
some six months Wolfe and then Lawes
a year of progression and celebration for
would depart Rye River to fully focus on
Whiplash, they’ve worked hard to get here. Very hard. Some seven years ago back in 2015, Lawes would be introduced to his now business partner Alan Wolfe. The former, who already briefly had dipped his toes into the world of beer production thanks to a role working at the Guinness Storehouse at St James’s Gate, had gone on to become captivated and enamoured with homebrewing and the community that came with it.
Had we not filled those tanks then we wouldn’t have survived the pandemic” Alex Lawes, Whiplash Beer
their new business. But what could they call it? “Whiplash,” Lawes would tell his business partner. “Sounds deadly, why Whiplash?” he asked. “The pain in me neck with this kip man,” Lawes replied. “You’re such a w*nker. Whiplash it is,” Wolfe muttered. The level of encouragement from fans of great beer is something that gave Lawes and Wolfe confidence in their abilities
Wolfe, also an alumni of Guinness, was a
from an early stage. That support is
manager at Rye River Brewing Company
something that would also eventually go
based in Celbridge, Co. Kildare. As Lawes
on to help ensure Whiplash would make
explains, Wolfe was running operations
Lawes’s response? “F*ck it, go on so,” he
it through those early months in their own
while he was “a jumped-up shift brewer
said.
premises, months that coincided with the onset of the COVID-19 pandemic.
with f*ck-all commercial experience and a reckoning that homebrews would get
Aged 26, Lawes found himself as head
me through.”
brewer at the helm of some of the
But before securing their own site
country’s finest kit with the license to
became a reality, it was down to Wolfe
Lawes wanted to join the business but on
brew what he wanted. In the time under
to help establish commercial channels
his own terms.
his stewardship, Rye River was an award-
for their beers. While during 2018 Lawes
winning outfit, but with annual output
would continue down the path of
Such was his desire to pursue his own
growing nearly eight-fold during that stint
keeping gruelling hours brewing. Just
path in beer, he wanted to make beer
it would take its toll, not only on Alex but
this time out it was at partner breweries
full-time but styles he loved, produced
Alan and the team at large.
across Europe with Whiplash starting out as a nomadic brewing operation.
in the manner he desired. The young brewer would become part of the team
It was time for Lawes to follow his own
at Rye River on the proviso that he would
path once more and this time, he meant
Lawes’ creations would continue to
honour the contract for a year before
it. There were just some hurdles to
garner praise from consumers, retailers
going on his own journey. And along with
overcome along the way and now, it was
and ratings websites alike. But as
that, his contract would outline that there
Wolfe that needed to be the one con-
Whiplash’ reputation grew, so did the
could be no conflict of interest issues to
vinced of a new challenge.
demand for its releases from the ancillary world of beer. “Although we didn’t have
arise with his eventual departure, either. But like many plans in beer, it didn’t quite
Although Lawes had already
our own place, people knew that we
turn out like that.
trademarked the ‘White Label’ moniker
were working with reputable outfits,
for the potential beers he’d make under
and they appreciated the quality of
As the end of that first year drew close,
his own steam, this would swiftly be
the product,” he says. “But negotiating
Rye River found itself needing a new
knocked down by an international
brewing, selling and delivering was
head brewer and Lawes would help
spirits business that made it abundantly
mentally and physically taxing. It became
Wolfe by putting out calls to potential
clear they would fight any attempt by
a battle to have beer at every festival you
applicants for this great role, a great role
the brewer to create beers under this
wanted to be at.”
Lawes knew that he himself couldn’t
designation in the courts. Lawes would
commit to. But that didn’t stop Wolfe
instead set up a new independent
The duo knew they needed premises
asking.
operation in the hope it could become a
of their own which in itself, predictably
reality. And thankfully for drinkers far and
presented a whole new set of challenges.
wide, it would.
Lawes and Wolfe initially approached
“You can pick all your materials and start
Whiplash with the premise of it being
from scratch,” he would tell Lawes at the time. “Beers stay in as long as you like,
Early beers such as Scaldy Porter and
a brewpub operation with the majority
f*ck it brew what you want. Fix the beers
Double IPA Surrender to the Void were a
of beers produced for sale on-site.
as you see fit, make new ones, have fun,
hit with consumers and demand for more
They would also cater for some export
sort the place out.”
frequent releases would grow. By 2017,
and utilise contract brewing at partner
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JULY~AUGUST 2022
BREWERS JOURNAL
Whiplash founders: Alex Lawes and Alan Wolfe
Members of the brew team purging wort with CO2 for their latest kettle sour
WHIPLASH pretty quickly. We’re here now.”
breweries for larger batches. But the form
in Europe, it’s a space that’s hosted live
which Whiplash would take would soon
acts such as U2, Robbie Williams and
start to alter.
Ed Sheeran. It also calls itself the spot
Following conversations with brewery
‘Where Dublin goes to breathe’. Fitting
manufacturers, Lawes said it was quickly
“Dublin is a fast-changing city these
then that down the road would become
apparent that they could offer a 500l kit
days,” muses Lawes. “There are lots of
the new home of where discerning beer
to cater for all of the beers he wanted to
good but also lots of bad things to be
fans go to drink.
produce but it would never be possible for Whiplash to make its money back
said about the development in the city centre. Land is picked up for offices,
Following nearly two years of searching,
from such a system size. “They were
hotels and the like when there is not
the duo would settle on a unit located on
right,” he said. The solution? “DIY – Design
nearly enough housing. And unlike the
the Cherry Orchard Industrial Estate. It’s
It Yourself. A truly terrifying prospect
north of England, we don’t have a lot
an impressive facility where no element
for any brewer – nobody to blame if it
of old industrial spaces that can be
has happened without consideration.
doesn’t work. So what are we building?
repurposed and brought back to life as a
There’s a hugely satisfying flow to the
It’s the most over-engineered pilot kit
brewery or similar.”
premises, premises that were worth
ever imagined,” he said. And that would
waiting for.
manifest itself as a five-vessel and mash filter custom brewhouse.
The closest such option the team could entertain was the Wholesale Fruit and Vegetable Market. Head some 500
The kit would comprise a mash mixer,
metres north from Temple Bar over the
decoction vessel and cereal cooker,
River Liffey and you’ll find the Victorian-
mash filter, wort receiver, boil kettle and
era structure, which was built in 1892 by
whirlpool. Kit that makes Whiplash the
the then Dublin Corporation. The site was built as a dedicated market space for local farmers and traders to sell and buy fresh produce. Constructed from a wealth of materials such as redbrick, steel and wood, the area has been a mainstay in the city for the best part of 150 years. “I love that part of Dublin. I feel connected
Dublin is a fastchanging city these days,” Alex Lawes, Whiplash Beer
smallest brewery, as Lawes explains, capable of producing “the most flexible and fastest high-quality wort in the world”. And its prized mash filter plays a major part in this equation. Having dabbled with such kit while working on the Guinness pilot plant, he had fond memories of wort that presented as the cleanest and most complex he had tasted. Following a
to it there,” Lawes ponders. But
period of research, which included a visit
conversations with the businesses still plying their trade would swiftly put pay to
When it came to shifting their focus for
to Spanish manufacturer Landaluce that
the idea of Whiplash calling it home.
the brewery build, the plan was to build a
could offer such kit for a microbrewery
kit that could produce a few small brews
operation, the team went ahead with the
“They told us that the whole area was as
of around 20-30 cases and a couple of
investment.
good as gone five years before. It had all
kegs every week. This would enable the
been snapped up for redevelopment,”
business to be nimble enough to cater
For Lawes, there are three key benefits
he says. “It stopped us in our tracks.
for everything from tap takeovers to
the mash filter offers their production
We had focused too much energy on a
festivals and more. Speaking at the time
setup, namely in extract, with time and
taproom model and it was time to shift to
Lawes said that from his experience,
ease of use. “On a mash filter you use
a production brewery mindset.
500L of a test brew would be perfect
cereal flour instead of the coarse grist
amount.
you’d need to mill for a lauter or a mash tun. Getting rid of all of that flour during
“We found ourselves asking what’s the best way we can flip a brewery idea we
“It’s a perfect volume to take proper risks
separation allows you to get at 100%
can just about afford to a production
with and experiment with flavours you
of that malt goodness,” he said at the
brewery that will be a much larger
might not even associate with beer. If it
time. “It’s not a huge concern on cost
operation.” And that journey would lead
works there’s just enough to sell cases
when making beer but it really helps
them to the Dublin suburb of Ballyfermot
and not p*ss too many people off, and
when you’re making really big beers like
and kit that Lawes would describe at the
if it’s rubbish then it’s down the drain,”
barleywines and imperial stouts when
time as “the most over-engineered pilot
he said. “It’s R&D and that’s going to be
compared to a mash tun the efficiency
kit ever imagined”.
expected. What I hadn’t planned for, but
can go as low as 60%.” The filter always
Alan could apparently see a mile off, was
works more efficiently than a lauter tun,
Ballyfermot is located south of the
I’d get over-excited by the possibilities,
while Lawes says the kit rarely blocks.
famous Phoenix Park. One of the largest
over-engineer the entire thing and turn
“You can throw what you want at them
enclosed public parks in any capital city
this thing into being the main project
provided you’re operating the thing
brewersjournal.info
JULY~AUGUST 2022
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39
WHIPLASH “Lots of our brewers moved to Ireland to work for us and many of us have lived with each other. We are a very egalitarian unit.” The output produced by team Whiplash spans the broad spectrum that exists in the world of beer. Lawes has a “master list” some 100 beers long and they are slowly and surely working their way producing them. Just don’t expect a red ale anytime soon. “It’s just a cynical style, isn’t it? he asks. “It’s a Pale Ale with 1% of the grain bill roasted barley. It was invented by macros in the 70s and I have a real distrust for it!” Instead, patrons in the summer can expect more Grisettes, Tripels and Wits while decoction lagers will enter the fold correctly. We can brew with as much
of “scrambling in the cellar and turning
come early autumn. Attendees to the
oats, wheat and spelt as we want for our
to some barrel-aged ideas”. But as the
recent Hop City event in Leeds would
New England bangers without worry.”
COVID-19 pandemic took hold, the team
also have been able to imbibe a new
Looking back on the brewery build, while
could take slight solace in the taxing
beer in the form of Emerald Rush, an IPA
it was a challenging and intense time
brew schedule they undertook once the
showcasing Riwaka. “I love that hop,” says
for the team, Lawes said it was a phase
kit had been installed several months
Lawes. “We managed to get our hands
in the story of Whiplash that has been a
prior. “Two days before St Patrick’s Day,
on 10kg and knew we do a could job
positive in the long term.
Ireland shut down,” he sighs. “Our pubs
using it. You can create a supercharged
here were closed for the longest time.
beer with Riwaka, especially when you
“We drew the tanks in CAD, worked with
We had an insane amount of stock,
have some Ekaunot underneath it.”
a Chinese fabricator and they sent us
but it’s beer that wouldn’t have been
While the beers brewed are diverse in
everything to setup. Asking every little
available had we not brewed so much at
their nature they are underpinned by
question about each tank makes you a
Christmas.”
that almost obsessive desire to make the best liquid possible. “We never make
better brewer, he says. “We are a more While they had beer available to sell,
concessions as to what is a saleable
they had vastly reduced avenues through
beer. We make what is interesting to
And the beers the team outputs from
which to sell it. Step up the loyal beer
us,” explains Lawes. But they always
its facility are testament to that. And
fans that helped give Lawes and Wolfe
need to be of high-quality. And quality
following the exhausting brewery fit-out,
that early confidence to make a go of
is repeatability and the reduction of
which needed countless delays around
what would become Whiplash. “We were
variance. We strive for that each and
local installation issues overcome, there
contacted by the National Homebrew
every time.”
were other unprecedented challenges
Club in Ireland that wanted to buy our
on the horizon.
beer,” he says. “They reached out to
If this month’s sold-out Fidelity Festival
“When it came to local fabrication and
independent breweries like ours, which
is anything to go by, then Whiplash is
pipeworks, you could say there were
we truly appreciate. While there is strict
achieving just that. Because attracting
some delays on that front,” Lawes recalls.
legislation in the amount they could buy,
leading lights from the world of beer to
“But we did our first mash on the 1st
they’d get close to a pallet and split it
pour and collaborate with you doesn’t
November 2019 and knew we had to get
among themselves. They knew small
happen by accident.
to work.”
businesses needed support and it kept
qualified outfit as a result.”
us going.”
And if anything, things are more jovial than they were at the end of 2020 when
With 64 brews carried out in the first few days, he says the production rate
And that support was integral in
the team could mark one year since their
probably came as a shock to some of the
ensuring the brewery’s fledgling team
first official brew, when they joked: “This
team. “Had we not filled those tanks then
could remain employed and go on
brewery is now quite the pain in our neck.
we wouldn’t have survived the pandemic
to grow as conditions improved. It’s a
We’ve ruined our lives.” While they’ve
that was to come,” Lawes says. While FVs
team international in its composition
taken their far share of bumps and
were happily filled, a traditionally quiet
and a group that works as one. “It’s a
bruises along the way, those of us that
January would follow a Christmas period
respectable, cohesive team,” says Lawes.
enjoy fantastic beer are glad they did.
40
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JULY~AUGUST 2022
BREWERS JOURNAL
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Brewers Journal June 2022.indd 1
S C I E N C E
www.qclbrewing.com 01342 820820 21/06/2022 08:37:02
WATER: THE CLEAR BUT INVISIBLE RISK
WATER
AS BUSINESSES CONSUME A LARGE PROPORTION OF THE UK’S AVAILABLE WATER, IT IS IMPERATIVE THAT BREWERIES PLAY OUR PART IF WE ARE TO ACHIEVE A SUSTAINABLE FUTURE WATER SUPPLY, EXPLAIN WATERSCAN.
brewersjournal.info
E
veryone needs water. Water
competitiveness in their marketplace.
sustains life. It creates
u Becoming more resilient to the effects
growth and prosperity.
of climate change and water scarcity by
It’s the lifeblood of your
making them less dependent on external
business.
factors.
Think for a second... how long could your
u Building long-term reputational gains
business continue to operate without
by playing an active, collaborative role
it? Give it a day and you’re in crisis
in the communities within which they
management mode. Within a week,
operate.
customer confidence in you and your
u Acting on environmental sustainability.
financial targets are impacted, and the
It’s also worth noting that, while saving
reputation you’ve worked so hard to build
water is a success in itself, this will
is at stake.
also positively impact other goals like
Now think for a minute... when was the
emission reduction and progress towards
last time you analysed your organisation’s
net zero because supplying and treating
water data? Do you know how much
water is carbon intensive.
water you consume and how much it
If you are yet to instigate a water
costs your business? If you’re not sure,
resilience strategy, it may seem daunting
you’re not alone. For most businesses,
at first and perhaps not much of a priority
water plays second fiddle to gas and
right now. Rest assured though, that
electricity. It’s comparatively cheap, it’s
the benefits of doing so are numerous,
apparently readily available and there’s
usually resulting in a swift return on
traditionally been little stakeholder
investment and ongoing benefits to your
pressure to act.
business that will be realised for decades.
So, what’s the big deal?
As with most things, if you can’t measure
The big deal is that, roughly twenty years
it, you can’t manage it. The first step is
from now, water demand (which is rising
to benchmark your operation before
due to population growth and business
deploying the ten steps to water
development) is predicted to exceed
resilience that will help to safeguard your
water availability (which is declining
business.
due to climate change and aging infrastructure). At this tipping point, when water scarcity impacts our daily lives, everyone will sit up and take notice, but that is the point when it will be too late,
UK IN FOCUS
especially for businesses that rely heavily on water to operate.
Businesses consume 30% of our available water.
MAKE WATER WORK FOR YOU
u Amongst Waterscan customers, breweries average 722,000 litres of
As businesses consume a large
water every day.
proportion of the UK’s available water, it
u Leaky taps and pipes waste 2,954
is imperative that we play our part if we
million litres of water each day. That’s
are to achieve a sustainable future water
over 5.9 million bottles of beer.
supply and resilient companies.
u There are over 190,000 water
Businesses that are proactive on water
meters that have not been read in the
will futureproof their operations through:
last year and this means inaccurate
·Lowering their bills and increasing
invoices.
JULY~AUGUST 2022
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43
WATER
DON’T FORGET THE WASTE
clear that in this unforeseen situation,
a nationwide scale required sound data
disposal would be necessary.
and processes as well as multi-layered
Of course, driving water efficiency
The challenges were well documented
collaboration at scale. Starting with
through consumption management is
but, in most cases, the focus was on
risk assessments, verification of stock
only part of the puzzle: a point that was
financial rather than environmental costs.
levels and analysis of environmental
thrown into clear focus during the first
Amid warnings from a myriad of sources
risks on a region-by-region basis, we
Covid-19 pandemic lockdown when
that wildlife would be harmed if large
helped customers to dispose of this
around 87 million pints were rendered
quantities of beer were washed away to
trade effluent safely. While this situation
out-of-date and unsaleable as a result
end up in rivers and waterways, however,
was quite unprecedented, the takeout is
of closures across the hospitality arena.
this waste disposal process needed
that responsible management of water
While waste prevention is always at the
careful consideration.
waste cannot be underestimated in an
top of the waste hierarchy, it became
Dealing with this level of trade effluent on
increasingly regulated environment.
44
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JULY~AUGUST 2022
BREWERS JOURNAL
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The company was purchased by a hop growing family. This same family are still the owners today, and have been growing hops since the early 1800’s.
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To enhance the range of hop varieties available to brewers and to excite beer drinkers with new flavours and aromas.
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To reduce time between the harvest and processing, we installed our own pelleting facility. This added to the freshpak whole leaf packaging we had pioneered in the 1990’s.
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Charles Faram Farms was formed to extend our grower family and share contracts equally and fairly amongst the members.
www.wellhopped.com Hop Factors & Merchants Since 1865
CFAA21UK_190x125_HFAMS1865_Oct21_v7 | 13/10/21 | PDF/X-1a
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BELGIUM TOUR
A BELGIAN BEER ODYSSEY
PAUL DAVIES IS NO STRANGER TO BELGIUM AND THE BEERS - REVERED AROUND THE WORLD - PRODUCED ACROSS THE COUNTRY. IN THIS ARTICLE HE PAYS HOMAGE TO THE FINE PRODUCERS OF OUD BRUIN BEFORE MAKING THE JOURNEY TO DAG VAN DE OUDE GEUZE TRANSLATED TO DAY(S) OF THE OLD GUEUZE - AND THE STUNNING BREWERIES AND BLENDERIES HE’D VISIT ALONG THE WAY.
brewersjournal.info
I
first met Marc Coesens of
popped in to Brouwerij Verhaeghe in
Brouwerij Liefmans about three
Vichte where we met retired teacher
and a half years ago. While
and local historian Pol Ostyn for a history
enjoying his generous hospitality
lesson held in the old horse stables
and in particular the refreshingly
which is now a tasting cafe and tour of
quaffable Oud Bruin, Marc lamented the
this amazing brewery.
decline in popularity of this wonderful beer. Oud Bruin is a blend of old and
Founded in 1885 by Paul Verhaeghe, the
young beer which provide a harmonious
brewery became a popular supplier of
balance of mature malt aromas, sweet
beer to Brussels due to its location next
youthful flavours and a subtle refreshing
to the Vichte train station. The First World
sour backbone which is both thirst-
War ended the brewery’s association
quenching and addictive. He reflected
with Brussels and they focussed
that it was viewed as an old-fashioned
more regionally, producing their first
beer and that younger beer enthusiasts
bottom fermenting beer. Karl and Peter
overlooked it for more exciting modern
Verhaeghe now run the brewery, Karl on
beers.
the management side and Peter in the brewhouse.
A few weeks ago I took some industry colleagues on a tour of mixed
Today, Verhaeghe is better know
fermentation breweries in Flanders –
globally for its rood bruin Duchesse de
rood bruins – and lambic breweries and
Bourgogne, a blend of eight month and
blenderies in Pajottenland. I asked Marc
18th month old beers matured in oak
if he still wanted to update the Oud Bruin
barrels and name after Duchesse Mary
brand by renaming it Odnar which is a
of Burgundy who was born in Brussels.
heritage brand from the brewery’s past.
Locally Vichtenaar, another rood bruin, is
Marc pointed out that Odnar was named
the beer of choice. Of course the Foeder
after previous owners of the brewery and
Hall was the highlight of the brewery tour
was an abbreviation of the brewery name
before we settled back in the old stables
around the turn of the nineteenth century.
where Pol gave us a very generous tasting of Verhaeghe beers. Well,
Marc lamented that the younger beer
generous to the others, I was driving!
market wouldn’t get excited by a beer called ‘old brown’ and was hopeful of
BROUWERIJ RODENBACH
a re-brand in the future. I can see what he means about the name. But the beer
Our next stop just had to be Brouwerij
remains a delight and there is no better
Rodenbach in Roeselare and not just
place to enjoy it than the tasting bar at
because this year they celebrate their
Liefmans while Marc is in full storytelling
200th anniversary! In fact the anniversary
flow.
relates to when the Rodenbach brothers bought an existing brewery on
BROUWERIJ VERHAEGHE
Spanjestraat (one of two located there at the time). The site has been brewing
My colleagues and I were in Belgium
since the 17th century and back in the
for the Dag van de Oude Geuze festival
day they brewed lambic.
which was back after a Covid-enforced hiatus (more about this on a later post).
One can never get tired of visiting
On our way to our base in Halle we
Rodenbach, especially the majestic
JULY~AUGUST 2022
|
47
Bottles of beers from Brouwerij Liefmans
Brouwerij Liefmans
Rodenbach’s modern brewhouse
Today, Verhaeghe is better know globally for its rood bruin Duchesse de Bourgogne
Rodenbach’s Rudi Ghequire
Quality control at Brouwerij ‘t Verzet
Rodenbach in Roeselare celebrates its 200th anniversary this year.
BELGIUM Foeder Halls but this visit was to be extra
oud bruin, Koen and Alex also produce
1972. Madame Rosa still lives next door to
special as Rudi Ghequire was to give
a range of blonds, porters, IPAs and
the brewery and regularly pops in to pick
us a private tour, including the original
anything they find interesting. Their thirst
up a bottle or 2. A true beer legend.
brewhouse which was closed in 2002.
for experimentation has also taken the
It was quite an honour to walk in Rudi’s
oud bruin style to another level. Each
steps and experience the old brewhouse
year sees the release of their celebrated
– the mash tuns, kettles, lauter vessels,
range of oud bruin infusions, using
When you walk into De Cam
and possibly the largest koelship I’ve
additions of different fruits and even oak
Geuzestekerij in Gooik, the first thing
ever seen. And he’s been treading these
leaves.
that you see is a well-worn print of
steps for almost 40 years. The whole experience was a privilege.
WHO LOVES SOME LAMBIC?
The Peasant Wedding, a 16th Century And it doesn’t end there. Kameradski
painting by Pieter Bruegel the Elder,
Balsamico is a Russian Imperial Stout/
painted just before his death. The
Of course, no visit to Rodenbach is
Oud Bruin hybrid at 13.5%, while Super
painting depicts a party with revellers
complete without a walk through the
Boil extends the time in the kettle from
eating and drinking along tables and
breathtaking Foeder Halls. Nearly 300
1.5 hours to 16 hours, producing a much
bowls of food being distributed. On the
of these magnificent wooden structures
richer and caramel-forward beer - a
bottom left of the painting, a man is
exist, some of which are 150 years old.
method that is rumoured to have taken
pouring beer into jugs. Karel Godeau is
It is from these foeders that beers are
place in the distant past. For their 10th
certain that this would have been lambic
matured to create Rodenbach Classic,
anniversary the team will also be hosting
beer, common around the Brussels
Grand Cru, Vintage, Charactere Rouge,
their first Oud Bruin Festival in Kortrijk
area where Bruegel moved to five years
Alexander and Rosso.
held over 2 days Friday and Saturday
previously. Karel is fiercely proud of his
10th/11th December. The event will
lambic and the style in general. And he
Rudi shared another special treat – his
feature 33 breweries and includes a
is committed to retaining its provenance
new beer which has been produced
number of masterclasses presented by
and isn’t too impressed with some
especially for the 200 year anniversary
the visiting breweries. Not to be missed!
producers’ more modern takes on the
Rodenbach Red Tripel is an 8.2% ABV tripel blended with a two year old beer.
beer style.
BROUWERIJ LIEFMANS DE CAM GEUZESTEKERIJ
Its an extremely clean beer and drinks way below 8.2%. Refreshing, malty, fruity
Brouwerij Liefmans was the last mixed
and lots of complex malt and wood
fermentation brewery of our trip.
A group of us had travelled across to
character. A little know fact is that Eugene
Experiencing Marc Coesens’ hospitality,
Pajottenland to attend the 15th edition
Rodenbach carried out some brewing
driven by his infectious personality is
of the Dag van de Oude Geuze and
training in England prior to taking over
a real delight. Marc clearly loves to
take in a number of lambic breweries
the brewery as manager in 1878. It is here
entertain guests with stories regarding
and geuze blenderies along the
where he learned the art of maturing
the brewery and his life in beer. After over
way. We also managed to fit in visits
beer in wooden casks and blending
21 years at Duvel in Moortgat, where he
to a number of mixed fermentation
young and old beers. You can learn
ran the brewery lab he moved close to
breweries which you can read about
all about it from the anniversary book
home to take over Brouwerij Liefmans in
here. The festival is organised by De
‘Rodenbach 200 years: History Poured in
July 2008 when Duvel bought the then
Lambikstoempers and takes place at the
a Bottle, History Written in a Bottle’
bankrupt brewery and brought it back to
Streekproductencentrum in Halle across
life. The history of the brewery began in
both days of the weekend.
BROUWERIJ VERHAEGHE
1679 in the centre of Oudenaarde. Beers from 18 producers were featured
So Marc at Liefmans was lamenting
In 1750 Jacobus Liefmans relocated the
and being run by a not-for-profit
the decline of his beloved Oud Bruin
brewery to its current site on the banks of
organisation, prices are decent to say the
and reflecting that younger consumers
the river Scheldt and it took until the 20th
least. A must-have is the tasting flight
struggle to get excited by a beer called
Century before Liefmans began adding
of five Oude Geuze, a snip at 6.5 euros.
‘old brown’. This could be true but
cherries to their tanks and launched their
Producers in attendance were Angerik,
seems to have been lost on the team at
kriek beers. Things took off under the eye
Boerenerf Eylenbosch, Boon, Cantillon,
Brouwerij ‘t Verzet in Anzegem. This outfit
of Rosa Merckx who joined the brewery
De Cam, Den Herberg, De Troch,
first appeared on the scene as gypsy
in 1946. It was Rosa who recognised that
Eylenbosch, Drie Fonteinen, Girardin,
brewers 10 years ago – they were known
to increase their popularity, the mixed
Hanssens, Lambiek Fabriek, Lindemans,
as Brouwers Verzet back then as they
fermentation beers needed to be less tart
Mort Subite, Oude Beersel, Sako, Tilquin,
didn’t have a brewhouse of their own.
and she reworked many of the breweries
Timmermans and the Horal Megablends
That all changed in March 2016 when
recipes. She became the first recognised
from 2013, 2017, 2019 and 2021. Plus
their brewery produced its first beer.
female brewmaster in Belgium and took
further treats were to be found in the
Known foremost for their devotion to
over the management of the brewery in
Streekproductcentrum.
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BREWERS JOURNAL
The Peasant Wedding, a 16th Century painting by Pieter Bruegel the Elder, painted just before his death.
Five Oude Geuze for an agreeable 6.5 euro.
Oude Geuze in the garden was the perfect way to end a morning at the brewery.
Investigating the options at Dag van de Oude Geuze
BELGIUM
Ending the day in the only way possible.
weeks, a date that I couldn’t make, due
also picked up some five-year lambic
to judging commitments.
that was bottled in 2019. One of the beers of the year for me. Karel even arranged
It was also great to catch up with
for a friend to collect us and take us to
Frank Boon and take a look around his
Eizeringen and In de Verzekering tegen
workshop where he is busy as a cooper
de Grote Dorst.
these days repairing foeders. Frank even gave us some staves from a 115 year
Regularly voted the best beer cafe
old barrel, made from wood that was
in Belgium and worldwide In de
200 years old at the time. Some glasses
Verzekering tegen de Grote Dorst
of Oude Geuze in the garden was the
dates from the mid nineteenth century.
perfect way to end a morning at the
For more than 51 years it was run by
brewery.
Marguerite who at 85 years old poured her last bottle of lambic at Christmas
So it was off to Den Herberg for lunch
1999. The Paneels brothers took over the
and after a few beers and a tasty meat
pub and after a 5 year restoration the bar
and cheese platter it was onwards to
re-opened.
Lambik-o-Droom. We were a very lucky group to visit the tasting room when a
It is an essential visit. Not only is it a
batch of Jerez y Frontera was launched,
perfect representation of a traditional
both the Oloroso and PX versions. And
Pajottenland cafe, it also boasts one
they didn’t disappoint. Midway through
of the best lambic cellars in the world.
tasting these delights we were also
Apart from certain events and church
offered a tour of the barrel store. One of
holidays, the pub is open only on
the highlights was the foeder featuring a
Sundays between 10am and 8pm. If you
hand-carved relief of Armand and Gaston
in the area this place is unmissable. If you
I’d wholeheartedly recommend this
on the wood. It is difficult to comprehend
are not, make the effort to visit. Bus 128
lovely little festival. You will bump into old
that Armand de Belder would tragicaly
between Brussels and Ninove will drop
friends and undoubtedly make new ones.
pass away less than five months later.
you/pick you up 200 metres away. With
Halle is also a great base with a number
The world of beer is diminished by his
our newly befriended driver we enjoyed
of high end B&Bs in the town such as
absence.
some delicious lambic from De Troch
DAG VAN DE OUDE GEUZE
and a couple of bottles of Bokkereyder. A
Kaai 16 where I have stayed before and the impressive Flemish Home five
Sunday saw us make our way to Gooik
perfect end to one of the perfect of days.
bedroom house. We stayed at the always
and a visit to Karel Godeau’s De Cam
Ever.
classy Les Eleveurs with its comfortable
Geuzestekerij. Founded in 1997 by
rooms, hearty breakfast and fantastic
Willem van Herreweghen, Karel took
restaurant where we enjoyed an historic
over in 2000 combining his day job at
beer tasting menu hosted by Andy De
Brouwerij Slaghmuylder in Ninove. He
Brouwer on the Saturday evening.
devoted himself full time to De Cam in 2019. I’d won a tour of De Cam at the
We also had a full day visiting Brouwerij
virtual Toer de Geuze earlier in the year.
Boon, Den Herberg for lunch and
After a detour to the excellent Cafe
Lambrikdroom at Drie Fonteinen. Boon
Den Haas, Karel welcomed us into his
had organised a schedule of brewery and
blendery. Immediately we were tasting a
foeder tours to launch their new shop at
fresh jug of his lambic straight from the
the brewery. While I always love to visit
foeder.
A hand-carved relief of Armand and Gaston
a brewery, the treat here is the barrel room where drinking fresh lambic from a
Karel was so generous and took us
foeder is a delight.
around the blendery, answered our questions and gave his honest opinions
Our guide joined us in a toast of lambic
on the lambic world in Pajottenland. More
from Vat 83 and I was delighted to locate
lambic followed, some Framboise, a new
Vat 31, winner of World’s Best Geuze at
unnamed and young fruit blend and his
World Beer Awards that year when I was
delicious Oude Geuze. Supplemented
on the judging panel for that category. I
with local cheeses and warm weather
had a peak at the new tasting room that
this made for a wonderful afternoon in
was due to be launched in a couple of
the company of Karel and his friends. I
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JULY~AUGUST 2022
BREWERS JOURNAL
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LABELLING
“The Vulcan on cue printing is great for us and reduces our wastage,” Kurt Fletcher, Fourpure
LABELS IN LONDON L
FOLLOWING ITS RECENT INVESTMENT DRIVE, LONDON-BASED FOURPURE NEEDED TO UPGRADE ITS LABELLING FACILITIES. THIS IS HOW THEY DID IT.
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JULY~AUGUST 2022
ocated on London’s famous
eight years previously, reported double
Bermondsey Beer Mile, the
demand for their canned beer. This
Fourpure Brewing Company
prompted the popular brand to invest
recently installed a flexible
£2.5 million in upgrading its SE16 canning
and moveable case coding
line. Fulfilling this swell in sales, Fourpure
system from Clearmark Solutions to
needed an ultra-reliable and fast print
complement its £2.5million expansion
and apply machine for its new purpose-
investment, which now comprises a fully
built packaging facility.
automated canning line. Replacing a legacy ink coder on the
Three times faster than conventional
case packing line, the ICE Vulcan print
print & apply labellers, Fourpure’s ICE
and apply labelling system now fully
Vulcan was innovatively customised to
satisfies supermarket GS1 barcoding
streamline the labelling of packaged
requirements by ensuring every single
cans destined for British supermarkets.
SKU contains a clearly legible Grade A
Located on the outfeed of the case–
barcode and is positioned in a uniform
packer conveyor, Clearmark’s unique
way.
Direct Apply non-pneumatic application
Supplied with a modular conveyor,
ensures the ultra-reliable print and apply
engineered to address several specific
labelling system never misses a pack,
automation challenges, Clearmark
no matter how close together they arrive
designed, built and delivered the
and pass in front of the Vulcan. Even
print and apply labelling system to
when cases aren’t evenly spaced or
accommodate multiple pack formats, in
when the gap between two packs is as
less than 10 weeks.
little as 10mm.
In 2021, the Bermondsey business,
Kurt Fletcher, packaging manager at the
established by two brothers inspired by
Bermondsey brewery comments: “Before
the US West Coast brewing scene just
the Vulcan we were hand labelling boxes
BREWERS JOURNAL
LABELLING for a good percentage of our production
brewery intentionally selected a labelling
costs,” explains Clearmark’s Steve
runs. It was hard. Either we printed too
system that could clearly present all the
Hancock.
many labels which meant lots of excess,
traceability and GS1 information without
Clearmark’s ability to adjust the
or too few labels and were running
compromising the craft brewer’s modest
configuration of the packing line sealed
around to source more. The Vulcan on
case designs.
the deal for Fourpure. Supplying the
cue printing is great for us and reduces
Kurt explains: “For our products to be
labelling solution conveyor on high
our wastage. The physical application
heading to large retailers the labels
quality castors, the packaging team can
is seamless and places the label in the
need to be clear and legible. The Vulcan
easily manoeuvre the ICE Vulcan to print
same spot every time, keeping up with
prints perfectly every time ensuring a
and apply labels on both the smaller
our 30 packs per minute. This would
uniform presentation and label integrity.
pack configurations upstream, in addition
be a tiring and repetitive job for staff to
For all team members it’s so easy to use.
to the larger cases sealed for transit at
perform.”
Simple, yet brilliant. The team really likes
the downstream outfeed.
Irrespective of speed, Clearmark’s
the design ease of the Clarisoft drag and
“Our ability to reconfigure the line not
Intelligent Motion™ technology
drop software. It ensures that everyone
only future proofs the business, they also
automatically adjusts and maintains
is able to create top notch labels for our
have two solutions for the price of one,”
the label reel tension, eliminating label
products.”
exclaims Steve.
slippage. Simultaneously, the solid state printhead delivers the exact pressure
“Labelling on average 30 ppm with the
required for repeatable and high quality
highest precision with no compressed
print resolutions.
air requirements, the ICE Vulcan is capable of four times the current line
REFRESHINGLY SIMPLE
speed, which gives huge future proofing. Additionally its maintenance free design
In keeping with Fourpure’s
reduces the printer’s total cost of
comprehensive but easily understood
ownership, equating to incredibly small
brand appeal, the award-winning
ongoing operation and maintenance
brewersjournal.info
JULY~AUGUST 2022
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55
FUNDING
FINANCING GROWTH
WHEN A PLYMOUTHBASED BREWERY WAS TARGETING EXPANSION, IT TURNED TO A LOCAL BUSINESS THAT PROVIDES VIABLE SMES AND STARTUPS WITH ACCESS TO FINANCE THROUGH DEDICATED BUSINESS LOAN FUNDS IN THE SOUTH WEST.
56
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JULY~AUGUST 2022
N
ick Palfrey started
behind closed doors, Steel Brew Co
brewing in his home
successfully navigated the pandemic by
garage in 2018, and two
adapting to offer takeaway, delivery, and
years later moved into
subscription services.
the Historic Melville
building in Plymouth’s Royal William Yard
The business returned to SWIG Finance
at the start of 2020. He’d commence
for further support in 2021 to help them
brewing large scale at the beginning of
relocate to larger premises and open
the pandemic, doing home deliveries
a vibrant and busy taproom, in which
every week and dropping 1000 free pints
they host successful collaborations and
off to keyworkers around the city before
brewing experiences, at the prestigious
opening its taproom in July 2020.
Royal William Yard development in the heart of Plymouth’s old naval quarters.
Along the way they turned to SWIG Finance, which helped the brewery
The move coincided with another major
through its expansion with a five-figure
announcement for the burgeoning
loan backed by the British Business
business, as its Plymouth Pale Ale was
Bank’s Recovery Loan Scheme.
crowned the title of Taste of the West Champion Beer 2021. Taste of the West
As a business that opened start of the
champions food and drink producers in
first lockdown, with production starting
the West Country, and its awards are a
BREWERS JOURNAL
FUNDING badge of honour for the best brands.
Co team have worked tirelessly to ensure
The entrepreneurial microbrewery has
that the brand continued to grow, even in
come a long way in a relatively short
the harshest business environment, and
time, and now employs a team of 10 with
that is a true testament to their dedication
plans to triple headcount over the next 3
to the business.”
years. The company was established more Nick Palfrey said: “In the craft beer
than 30 years ago to support businesses
industry, it is very difficult to grow without
who are unable to secure funding from
as we grow, we can work to improve our
underserved businesses in the region
operational process, rather than working
to overcome their financial barriers, the
on specific components, which often
firm is working to create a more balanced
results in a disjointed process. We chose
financial eco-system.
fdi funding wallplanner 2021.qxp_Layout 1 20/11/2020 Page 2 working capital. This means that mainstream lenders. By14:00 empowering
to work with SWIG Finance because we knew that they would take the time to understand where our business is now and where we want it to be. Our business manager, Rachael, was so personal and helpful, we were grateful for her assistance throughout the process”.
This funding means that as we grow, we can work to improve our operational process, rather than working on specific components,” Nick Palfrey
SWIG’s Business Manager, Rachael Taylor, added “We were delighted to support Nick in 2019 and we were really pleased that he came back to us for further funding. Nick and the Steel Brew
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JULY~AUGUST 2022
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57
INTRODUCING...
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INGREDIENTS
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THE BREWING INDUSTRY HAS SHOWN WILLING TO REDUCE THE AMOUNT OF INGREDIENTS IT USES FROM SYNTHETIC ORIGIN, SHIFTING TO NATURAL PROCESSING AIDS WHENEVER POSSIBLE. WITH THAT IN MIND, THIS MAKES IT THE PERFECT TIME TO CONSIDER SHIFTING TO SPECIALTY BREWERY TANNINS. BECAUSE AS ITALIAN-BASED SILVATEAM EXPLAIN, THEY HAVE LONG BEEN A TRADITIONAL ROUTE FOR BEER STABILISATION AND ALREADY EMBRACED TODAY BY MANY. BREWERIES.
brewersjournal.info
A
s we all know beer is the
Brewery tannins, which are natural
oldest processed drink to
hydrolysable high molecular, glucose-
mankind, it can be traced
based polyphenols, are offered to the
back to about 13,000 years
market under the trade name Tan’Activ
BC. For many centuries
GT and are produced by Silvateam, a
beer was produced and preserved
global leading manufacturer of plant-
in oak barrels, an environment which
based extracts of different botanical
offered some stabilisation due to the
sources. These natural extracts are
tannins naturally present in the wood.
gaining popularity, becoming the
In fact, these polyphenolic substances
stabilisation processing aid of choice
were released in the alcoholic solution,
of many breweries, thanks to their
stabilising it while slightly modifying its
multifaceted functionality.
taste. The Tan’Activ GT family includes Tan’Activ Beer colloidal stabilisation was not an
GTH and Tan’Activ GTC, offering solutions
issue till 1842, when the first lager was
to brewers to achieve both colloidal as
produced in Plzen, Czech Republic.
well as improved organoleptic stability,
The extremely rapid boom of lager
while increasing the efficiency of the
beer consumption across the globe
process. Tan’Activ GTH is particularly
led to the need for stabilisation, being
suitable for the hot part of brewing, as it
stored in bottles and transported over
can be added during mashing-in and/
long distances. In fact, this refreshing,
or at the end of boiling. Tan’Activ GTC,
enjoyable drink does not stay bright after
the best choice in the cold part, is used
production. It’s important to stabilize
beginning of maturation or before end of
it both from a colloidal as well as an
filtration, this in combination with various
organoleptic point of view, especially for
filter systems such as perlite, membrane,
export beers.
kieselguhr (Diatomaceous Earth - DE)
Several stabilisation processing aids are
and centrifuge filtration.
available in the market. Among these
For breweries wishing to move to perlite
silicagel and PVPP, which are probably
filtration, Tan’Activ GTC offers a unique
perceived as the most widely used, likely
solution to have a sharp filtration. If
due to German influences.
the filtration is done using membrane
Today, the industry is willing to reduce
technology, Tan’Activ GTC dosed at the
the amount of ingredients from synthetic
holding tank, in front of the membrane
origin, shifting to natural processing
filter, offers a good physical stability,
aids whenever possible. This makes it a
enjoying longer filter runs, reducing
perfect time to consider shifting to spe-
cleaning-in-process (CIP) cost and
cialty brewery tannins, for a long time
increasing the lifetime of the membranes.
the traditional way of beer stabilisation
The use of Tan’Activ GTH in the hot part,
and already embraced today by many
e.g. end of boiling, also has a substantial
breweries.
positive effect on membrane filtration.
JULY~AUGUST 2022
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59
INGREDIENTS
Natural extracts are gaining popularity, becoming the stabilisation processing aid of choice.
For breweries using DE, still the majority
from silicagel to Tan’Activ GT. This helps
earlier stages, dosing the product at
achieving substantial savings and leaving
end-of-boiling to enjoy further benefits
more polyphenols in your beer which
such as a more compact cone in the
are antioxidants and provide a more full
whirlpool, less trub carry-over, reduced
bodied beer.
tank bottoms, reduced maturation time, longer filter runs to name just a few
nowadays, using Tan’Activ GTC in the holding tank prior to the filter will prevent
WHAT’S THE MECHANISM?
advantages. Tan’Activ GT has no effect on foam
any pick-up of iron from the DE, offering a good physical stability and an improved
Brewery tannins, dosed in a solution,
stability and is totally removed after
taste stability, as well as the lowest
react within minutes to form a complex,
filtration. Tan’Activ GT is supplied in a
stabilisation cost by far.
selectively, with haze forming proteins
high active powder which is dissolved at
From a dosage point of view, 1 g/hl of
(mainly proline), the complex precipitates
the brewery, depending on the dosage
Tan’Activ GTC can replace around 45 g/hl
and is removed after any filtration step.
point between 1 to 10 % w/w solution.
of silicaxerogel, one of the most common
This complex has the ability to bind to the
Tan’Activ GT solutions provide the most
protein side stabilisation processing aids,
free available Fe3+ ions, which are then
cost efficient stabilisation system for
in case of DE filtration. From a dosage
removed after filtration. Aside from iron,
your beer, both from a physical as well
point of view, at end filtration with DE
some other metals are co-complexed
as an organoleptic point of view. The low
filtration, 1 g/hl of Tan’Activ GTC can
and hence delaying the Fenton reaction
dosage levels of tannins allow to reduce
replace around 45 g/hl of silica xerogel,
and increasing the antioxidant potential
the amount of waste and CO2 impact.
generating less waste and no need for a
of the beer.
Dosed at end-of-filtration, Tan’Activ
silica gel trap filter.
When using Tan’Activ GT tannins early
GT tannins also prevent any possible
When having a combined stabilisation
on in the brewing process (hot part)
lingering aftertaste, thus increasing the
system, typically silicagel and PVPP,
the focus is more on organoleptic
beer drinkability even more.
the latter to reduce haze forming
stabilisation and pre-colloidal
polyphenols, one can reduce the PVPP
stabilisation. Some breweries achieved
dosage level by 30 to 50 % if transitioning
also a good physical stability during
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BREWERS JOURNAL
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PHANTOM 62
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BREWERS JOURNAL
PHANTOM
FEELING GOOD A BREWERY FOUNDED BY TWO LIFELONG FRIENDS BONDED BY A LOVE OF SPORT, BLINK 182 AND BRILLIANT BEER, PHANTOM BREWING HAS SWIFTLY BECOME ONE OF THE BREWERIES PUTTING READING ON THE MAP FOR FANS OF THIS BEAUTIFUL BEVERAGE. AND THEY’RE JUST GETTING STARTED.
W
e’re taking this way
somewhere accessible for people to
too slow (I’m feeling
navigate to from the City Centre.
this).” Next year will
“When you look at Reading
mark 20 years
geographically, it’s pretty hard to get too
since Blink 182, the US punk-rock band
much closer to the centre with a unit
released their latest hit ‘Feeling This’. How
of our size,” he says. “From day one we
it’s nearly two decades makes this writer
wanted the taproom to be a major part of
feel very, very old. But like any great
what we do so when it came to securing
song, it continues to resonate with fans
this place, it was very much a case of
far and wide many years on.
right place and right time.”
And Dane White and Dom Gemski, founders of Phantom Brewing, can count
However, before securing their dream
themselves members of that particular
spot, the hunt would take the duo
fan club. They’ve not only named beers
elsewhere. Other locations in Reading, as
after tracks from the Californian group,
well as Maidenhead, were investigated. A
but those lyrics above also do an apt job
property in Reading was settled on, the
of summing up their approach to opening
lease was negotiated and contractors
their beloved brewery.
were being lined up but then, no. The landlord decided against a brewery
“We’re not the most patient people,”
taking on the facility.
Gemski smiles. “The longer the process went on, the more we wanted to push
“It was a setback, and the type of
the button and get it all started!”
teething problem that countless breweries no doubt encounter. But that
Phantom Brewing officially opened its
period felt like a lifetime,” says Gemski.
doors in November 2019, some two
“We were probably a little wet behind the
years after registering the business on
ears, and just wanted nothing more to
Companies House. “We didn’t have your
just get going.
typical sort of brewery opening but then, who does?” he recalls. “It took us that long to find the right location for what we wanted to do,” Gemski explains. “People familiar with Reading will know that we’re a really large town that’s begrudgingly not called a city by most people. “We have a high street with all of the usual chain shops you’d come to expect. But until the last couple of years, we didn’t have anywhere you could really enjoy good beer. Thankfully that’s changed and hopefully we’re playing our own part in that.” Gemski and White were clear on their objectives. They wanted a production facility but were also minded that, armed with a major warehouse, they still wanted
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We are always learning, exploring new techniques and trying different things,” Dom Gemski, Phantom Brewing JULY~AUGUST 2022
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PHANTOM “When starting out you get excited about
Grainfather and temperature-controlled
“We went with Elite as they had made kit
one thing, and that’s making beer for
FVs. “We wanted better results in what
for breweries we respected and, quite
people. It’s easy to forget about securing
we were making, while those around us
frankly, had a really good price point,”
licensing from HMRC and setting up with
started to accept that Saturday became
says Gemski. The 12BBL kit would go on
the AWRS. Things that can bore you to
the brewday,” says Gemski. “Anyone that
to be backed up by wealth of tanks in
death but they have to be done!”
starts a brewery has probably heard the
the fermentation cellar. “They did a truly
story many times, but you often don’t
great job for us and it has served us really
Up until as late as July 2019, the duo had
realise it’s taking over your free time
well these last few years,” he adds.
planned for Phantom Brewing to start
because of the pure enjoyment you get
And following a successful stint on the
out from the former property. But as one
from it.”
Elite kit, the arrival of a new setup from SSV Ltd is imminent. Machinery that will
door closes, another opens… As their love of brewing grew, they would
enable the brewery to capitalise from a
begin to look at their full-time professions
range of additional benefits.
I was involved in security technology
and question the pleasure they were
From day one, Phantom Brewing has
solutions.
gaining from it. “At one point over a few
made its name from producing a wealth
“We lucked out,” Gemski gleams. “Another property came up and we were in a fortunate position where the landlord wanted to make it work for us. It needed a lot of renovation but they agreed to it. In a few short months we moved in to what felt like a brand new unit.” He adds: “Because of all the work that we had done previously with regards to paperwork and also the facility specifications we wanted, everything moved at a really fast pace. A cold store was built, the brew floor had gone down, tanks were in and the all-important toilets fitted out. We had been contract brewing so all that was left was the brew kit to arrive.” A soft launch for friends and family took place mid November 2019 and Phantom Brewing immediately made an impact with the great and good of Berkshire. But let’s rewind a bit. Gemski has been friends with co-founder Dane White since “forever”. “We started on that typical homebrew journey at a time we were both working corporate jobs,” he recalls. “Dane was working for an automotive engineering company that involved global travel while
beers we found ourselves asking ‘Could
of different beers with some 60 released
“But we stayed friends and our love of
we? Could we do this properly?’. We were
in those earlier, formative months. “That’s
homebrewing reached a point where
egging ourselves on and well…here we
been by design from the very start,” says
we made more and more beer. Our
are.”
Gemski.
something we like then we will absolutely
Phantom Brewing opened its doors
These have included Pales and IPAs
saturate ourselves in it. And in this case,
with kit from companies such as Elite
to Blackberry & Pomegranate Sours,
that was brewing!”
Stainless Fabrications, a Swindon-based
Oatmeal Stouts, Helles, and a lot more
firm specialising in the manufacture and
besides. “We meet every Tuesday and
installation of stainless steel equipment
discuss what styles are interesting us.
personalities are similar in that if there’s
Production swiftly moved up to a
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PHANTOM
Only a while back the idea of brewing a
other major passion Dane and I share,”
“It’s not something we can continue
Foeder-aged Red Lager was suggested,
says Gemski. “We played in the same
forever but we think it’s really cool that
so we did one. We also aged it on
bands growing up in the early 2000s, and
there’s probably fans of Blink 182 that
cherries,” smiles Gemski. “I was told, it’s
listened to pop punk bands like Blink 182.”
have been introduced to our brewery, and maybe craft as a whole, through
great we’re making it. Just good luck selling it.”
He adds: “So when it came to Phantom
those releases,” he explains. “And that’s a
Brewing, we reached the fun part of
great feeling.”
He adds: “I think producing many
naming beers. When we started out we
different beers keeps things enjoyable
liked the idea of our first tap pouring
With a burgeoning team, a growing
for us as a team. We are always learning,
‘Feeling This’, which is named after the
production setup and a relationship
exploring new techniques and trying
first track on Blink 182’s self-titled album
that flourishes in Reading and beyond,
different things. It keeps things interesting
released in 2003.”
Gemski is understandably excited about the path ahead.
and keeps things diplomatic. too.” The following year a new IPA, ‘ Online Despite the wealth of releases, one beer
Songs’, track two on the same band’s
“Let’s make no bones about it,” he says.
that continues to resonate on a major
album ‘Take Off Your Pants and Jacket’
“Owning and running a brewery is a
scale is ‘Feeling This’, a 5% Columbus,
would mark the start of year two of the
great job. We’re very fortunate to have
Cascade, Citra & Mosaic Pale Ale. It’s
brewery. And into year three in 2022,
the team we do and we are grateful for
brewed, it comes on sale, it sells out.
‘Dammit’, the third track on the album
the support we continue to get from the
Repeat.
‘Dude Ranch’, would take the form of a 7%
community locally and further afield.”
IPA loaded with Citra, Mosaic Lupomax, “Alongside sport and beer, music is the
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Simcoe and Strata was launched.
BREWERS JOURNAL
BEERTEC SOLUTION-PROVIDER-INTEGRATOR
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BACK TO BASICS
FERMENTATION CONTROL
IN THE LATEST INSTALMENT OF THE SERIES, TIM O’ ROURKE, THE TECHNICAL EDITOR OF THE BREWERS JOURNAL PLACES THE SPOTLIGHT ON FERMENTATION CONTROL.
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D
uring fermentation sugars are consumed and converted to alcohol and carbon dioxide. The rate of fermentation can be followed by the decrease in apparent density (original gravity). Fermentation is an exothermic reaction; yeast generates heat during yeast growth and the rate of fermentation is controlled by temperature.
Figure 1: Typical fermentation chart showing the fall in apparent density and the control of temperature.
Although it is common practice to take daily or twice daily gravity checks to monitor fermentation performance, in the 1980’s & 1990’s inconsistent fermentations were seen as a major quality problem and many Brewers wanted to follow fermentation in real time so they could rapidly respond to any changes in fermentation rate. Methods used included: u In line density monitors based on oscillating tubes where higher energy was necessary to vibrate wort with higher density. u Passing ultrasonic beam through the fermenter to measure the fall in gravity. u Measuring the evolution of carbon dioxide which relates to the rate of fermentation u Measure the amount of heat (through cooling jackets) produced during fermentation. Most methods suggested proved to be difficult to calibrate and unreliable often creating hygiene problems. Even when the process was seen not to be in control few Brewers did anything to rectify the problem, generally keeping “their fingers crossed” hoping it would sort itself out and when that did not work, blending beers to bring it back into specification. Recently is has been accepted that most variations in performance are related to inconsistences in the inputs and that fermentation vessels could be considered as a “Black Box” where if all the inputs were controlled it would deliver the same outcome. Setting tight conditions at the start of fermentation was made easier by modern equipment and instrumentation to ensure repeatable fermentation every time. The starting conditions which must be controlled include: Temperature – modern chillers and cooling jackets make sure the wort is collected at the set temperature and the fermentation follow the required profile.
BREWERS JOURNAL
FERMENTATION
Fall in wort gravity
Fermentation temperature deg C
Fall in wort gravity
Yeast pitching rate g/L
Nutrient status –the consistency and modification of current malt using controlled
Above, left, figure 2: Rate of fermentation
mashing regimes produce a highly fermentable wort with all the necessary nutrients
at different temperatures for an Ale yeast
to support yeast growth. The inclusion of a high ratio of adjuncts may dilute some
straintemperature.
essential nutrients such as soluble nitrogen (FAN) and zinc salts which could limit yeast growth.
Above, right, figure 3 Rate of fermentation
Oxygen is a critical nutrient required by yeast for growth. It is sparingly soluble in
with different yeast pitching rates for an Ale
wort (around 8 to 10 mg/l from air) and difficult to measure and has often become
yeast strain.
the reason for inconsistent fermentation. Improvements with inline additions and gas control injected in line with cool wort and the use of pure oxygen in higher gravity beers has greatly improved fermentation performance. Yeast is the star of the show giving best results from yeast in perfect condition: Yeast count (number) is a pre-requisite for an effective fermentation such that the pitching rate for a typical 5% abv beer is: u Ales pitched at between 18 and 200C will require around 8 million yeast cells per ml u Lagers pitched at between 10 and 120C will require around 12 million yeast cells per ml As well as pitching rate – (number of yeast cells added) the rate of fermentation will be affected by: u Yeast Viability which measures the number of living yeast cells. Dead yeast cells will not grow and represent under pitching. Viability is comparatively easy to measure with dead cells staining blue with methylene blue. u Yeast Vitality is a slightly more abstract concept which is used to assess the vigour or health of the yeast. Although there are a number of laboratory methods developed to measure vitality, few, if any are used in standard production brewing. The most effective way to maintain good yeast vigour is to avoid stress by good yeast handling practices (discussed in a later article). By following yeast growth and metabolism through the various stages it is possible to gain a better understanding of the factors which affect growth and obtain an early indication of any problems.
LAG PHASE Breweries generally use dried yeast or recovered yeast which will have been stored cold (circa 50C) which is pitched into the warmer collected wort. Best results are obtained if the yeast is thoroughly mixed inline when collecting the wort. The yeast prepares itself for growth during the lag phase by taking up nutrients. Both the duration of the lag phase and the fall in pH can be used to follow the successful onset of fermentation.
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FERMENTATION
Time from start of fermentation in hours
Time from start of fermentation in hours
Top left: Uptake of wort oxygen (O2) Top right: Uptake of soluble nitrogen (FAN) Bottom left: Drop in wort pH during fermentation
Time from start of fermentation in hours
LOG OR GROWTH PHASE Below, left, figure 5a: Yeast cell growth during log phase.
The yeast exploits the rich wort nutrients to grow and reproduce. Healthy fermentations are followed by the fall in density as the wort nutrients are used up in cell growth. The success of the fermentation can also be followed by the number of
Below, right, figure 5b: Actively budding & smaller yeast cells
actively budding yeast (around 1/3 of yeast cells) which can be observed under the microscope.
Time from start of fermentation in hours
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FERMENTATION
SETTLEMENT PHASE At a certain point in the fermentation the fermentable sugars are exhausted and waste products (alcohol and carbon dioxide) built up. Yeast metabolism changes from growth to laying down energy storage compounds (glycogen) to withstand a period of starvation. Most brewery strains are able to clump together (flocculate) and settle out no longer taking an active part in fermentation. The rate of settlement depends on temperature and time. A number of cells remain active during this time and reduces some of the unwanted flavour compounds during warm maturation or a secondary fermentation. Left top and bottom,, figure 6: Settlement of yeast at the end of fermentation
Time from start of fermentation in hours
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FERMENTATION
TAKING BACK CONTROL By the time yeast reaches the settlement phase it has completed its growth cycle and attempts to rouse the vessel with inert gas to increase attenuation or remove unwanted fermentation flavours generally meets with limited success. The best plan is to avoid this problem through good control of the wort conditions and healthy yeast, but problems can occur and are best resolved if spotted early. u A slow start to the fermentation should be observed by a longer lag phase and a slower fall in gravity. u Simple checks of wort yeast count, yeast viability and budding index should identify if it is a yeast problem. u A simple check of temperature and pH and possible checks on dissolved oxygen addition and addition of yeast food should ensure sufficient wort nutrients u Having identified the causes of the slow fermentation then early rousing (maybe with air) allowing the temperature to rise or re-pitching can restore the fermentation. u If prompt action has not been taken and there is a “stuck” fermentation, then there is little that can be done apart from splitting and topping the brew with fresh pitched wort or blending to achieve the required specification.
FERMENTATION SUMMARY Yeast does it “own thing”. The only way to achieve a consistent flavour profile for your beer is to create the conditions for yeast to thrive. Fermentation is controlled by: u Nutrient status of wort u Number, type & health of yeast u Temperature - collection & top temperature u Time duration of fermentation The conditions during the fermentation determine many of the flavour characteristics of the final beer.
TABLE 1: BEER PROPERTIES Properties of beer
Low temperatures/ Slower fermentations
High temperatures/ faster fermentations
Fermentation temp
Lower esters, lighter flavours
High ester (fruity) flavours
Acidity or pH
Higher final pH with slower fermentations
Lower more acidic beers with rapid fermentation
Yeast flavour
Risk of yeast death (autolysis) & meaty flavours
Healthy yeast less risk of yeasty off flavours
Usually, higher pitching rate to offset slower yeast growth
Lower pitching rate more rapid yeast growth
Wort dissolved oxygen For a 1048 (12P) wort
Higher rate to stimulate more yeast growth DO = 10 – 12 ppm oxygen
Lower requirement for dissolved oxygen DO = 6 – 8 ppm oxygen
Yeast crop
Longer contact with wort may lead to lower viability Lager – 12 – 14 million cells/ml
Tends to have more viable crop Ale 6 – 9 million cells/ml
Butterscotch VDK notes
Slower uptake of VDK higher risk of off flavour
More rapid breakdown of pre-courser and rapid uptake
Yeast pitch For a 1048 (12P) wort
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TBJ directory.pdf 1 24/11/2020 13:28:48
BREWING AND PACKAGING
FERMENTATION MONITORING
C
M
Y
Bottling | Canning | Kegging Contract Brewing | Blending
CM
MY
CY
CMY
01843 865000 sales@sebpackaging.co.uk www.sebpackaging.co.uk
K
Realtime fermentation gravity and temperature monitoring with graphing, optional remote temperature control and our new CO2 purge device. www.dotmatix.net 020 3475 1420
CONTRACT PACKAGING FOR THE CRAFT DRINKS MARKET
CASK & KEG CLOSURES
HOPS SUPPLIERS
BOTTLING & CANNING
www.enterprisetondelli.co.uk info@enterprisetondelli.co.uk
BREWING DESIGN AND BUILD
Since 1774, Rankin continues to supply reliable closures that help seal, protect and add value to your brands. www.rankincork.co.uk sales@rankincork.co.uk + 44 (0)1844 203100
CONTRACT BREW & PACKAGE
American hops from the Pacific Northwest hops@yakimachief.com +1 509-453-4792 @yakimachief
HUMIDITY CONTROL
6ix Fabdec Ltd offer a full range of high quality brewery products, designed and manufactured right here in the UK. www.6ixfabdec.com sales@6ixfabdec.com +(0)1963 205 001 +(0)7375 448 118
BREWING EQUIPMENT
Whether you are an existing brewery or starting your own brand we have the perfect contract solution for you. Brewing, bottling and kegging services - we are the ‘secret’ behind our customer’s great beer.
INGREDIENTS
ben@hambletonbrewery.co.uk +44 (0)1765 640108
COOLING SOLUTIONS
info@kanegrade.com +44 (0) 1438 742242
Gravity Systems was formed to meet the growing demand in the craft beer market for a single source for all brewhouse, fermentation, services generation and distribution.
www.gravity-systems.co.uk +44 (0)1733 834264 enquiries@gravity-systems.co.uk
brewersjournal.info
www.galxc.co.uk +44 (0)23 8086 7168
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INGREDIENTS CONT’D
MALT CONT'D
Fruits, citrus, heat treated dried spices UK supply year round
FR SAM EE PLE S
Tel. +44 (0) 1200 449833 www.bowlander.co.uk
www.simpsonsmalt.co.uk +44 (0)1289 330033
QUALITY ASSURANCE
Bringing Quality Control To Your Brewery Analytical Products for Beer
PACKAGING
Chemistry and Microbiology 01342 820820 www.qclbrewing.com
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www.keglogistics.com/united-kingdom
+44 (0)7734 035562 SHorrox@keglogistics.com
RECRUITMENT
PACKAGING HANDLES
www.carlingpartnership.com +44 (0)1483 893 100
P
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www.paktech-opi.com handlesales@paktech-opi.com Phone: +1.541.461.5000
www.lallemandbrewing.com +44 (0)7930 451687
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UALITY M
PACKAGING AUTOMATION
www.fawcett-maltsters.co.uk +44 (0)1977 552490 sales@fawcett-maltsters.co.uk
skafabricating.com +1 (970) 403-8562
Fermentis is an expert in the art of fermentation. Our active dry yeasts and yeast derivatives cover almost all professional requirements: from safeguarding production to expressing sensory characteristics. Discover our products on www.fermentis.com Contact us at fermentis@lesaffre.com
www.muntons.com +44 (0)1449 618300
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