The magazine for the professional brewing industry
Brewers J o u r n a l
March 2018 | Volume 4, issue 2 ISSN 2059-6669
Northern monk the new heroes of UK beer
33 | INTELLECTUAL PROPERTY: WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW
40 | aRKELL’S: 175 YEARS YOUNG THIS YEAR
54 | CBC AND BREWEXPO 2018: THE FULL LOWDOWN
ut o h t w i rand !! e l t o t l is a b n t i t y b A be i de a la u t an ho wit
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le ad e r
what makes you special
S
upply and demand is a fundamental principle in economics and it is fundamentally important to all of us involved in brewing. It’s also something Alex Troncoso, co-founder of Bristol’s Lost and Grounded Brewers told us at the first Brewers Congress in London late last year. And it’s something that got me thinking as we developed the theme of this issue. Looking at the wealth of factors that impact a brewery’s plans, both in the short-term and looking further ahead. “It’s key to remember that in recent years there has maybe a scarcity in good beer, which helped drive up price a little,” explains Troncoso. ”But as more players enter the market, it’s possible that prices can be forced down, which can present an issue to brewers. We are unable to control what happens as we don’t have the economies of scale that larger breweries can benefit from so once more, you need to focus on what makes you different, what makes you unique, what makes you special.” Focusing on what makes you special, and playing to your strengths, is one way a business can ensure longevity. And it’s something that Arkell’s Brewery in Wiltshire know all about. It truly is the dichotomy of the beer industry. New breweries are often thought of as exciting, daring and willing to take a risk with taste, while older breweries are seen as flat and stale. But for older breweries to become just that – older – they have proven their consistency year after year, decade after decade, and in the case of Arkell, it’s now close to century after century. And in a year the brewery celebrates its 175th year in business, Alex Arkell is enjoying his own personal milestone. The 32-year old joined the company 10-years ago in 2008, the same time Arkell’s welcomed its first Royal guest with the visit of HRH
brewersjournal.info
editor's choice Northern Monk on why quality and consistency are key in building a brand that can stand the test of time - page 22
The Duke of Kent. Two years later, following the retirement of long-standing head brewer Don Bracher, Arkell took up the role of head brewer in his midtwenties and he continues to make his mark. While Arkell’s has reached such an impressive landmark in 2018, Leeds-based Northern Monk achieved its own personal success last month when it was recognised as one of the ‘Top 100 Breweries in the World’ at the RateBeer Awards. “We’re really happy with the reception that beer received and it performed well on RateBeer, too,” Brian Dickson, the company’s head brewer told us. “Featuring in the Top 100 is a great surprise but it’s also validation of the work and commitment we put in here. It’s a marker to show that what we’re doing is working.” Well done also to all of the UK breweries that had their hard work acknowledged throughout the last year and good luck in the future. u Tim Sheahan Editor
March 2018
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co nte nt s
contents 47
40
54
33
11
Cover story 22 - Northern Monk have hit the ground running in 2018, and they have no plans on slowing down
Comment 19 - There are a number of different technical reasons for choosing cask or kegs for dispense but for many, the choice still often comes down to image
Meet The Brewer | aRKELL'S 40 - If a 10-year-old brewery is considered today an industry veteran, what does this make a brewery celebrating its 175th anniversary?
FOCUS | QUALITY CONTROL THE BIG ISSUE | The ECONOMICS OF BREWING 28 - The beer industry in 2018 is economics playing out in front of our very eyes, explains Alex Troncoso, co-founder and head brewer of Bristol’s Lost and Grounded Brewers
47 - Why it is more imperative than ever to focus on QA and QC at your brewery
SHOW PREVIEW | CBC & BREWEXPO 54 - The full lowdown on the Nashville event
sPOTLIGHT | next top yeast strains INSIGHT | INTELLECTUAL PROPERTY 33 - You work hard to build your brewery. So there’s no point spending months and years creating a vision and a name for yourself if you don’t protect it and prevent others from benefitting from your toil
8
March 2018
60- Escarpment Laboratories on craft beer's next top yeast strains
science 62- Dr Keith Thomas. director at Brewlab discusses dealing with dextrins
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n e ws
UK successes at Ratebeer Awards anchester-based Cloudwater has jumped three
M
but I’ve used Ratebeer since the beginning of this brewery
places in the annual Ratebeer ‘Best Brewers in the
and my views have stayed the same throughout.
the world.
shows what the consumer thinks of us and how they view
“It is a concise distillation of consumer feedback. It
World’ category to be named the second best brewery in Northern Monk, the Leeds-based brewery, made its debut in the Top 100 rankings while Beavertown, Siren,
us. “I’m already seeing how our accolades given to
Tempest, BrewDog, The Kernel, Fuller’s, Magic Rock and
breweries like ours are helping the broader Manchester
Buxton also feature.
and UK beer scene. If anyone else had made that jump
Burnt Mill Brewery, based in Suffolk, was named the ‘Best New Brewer in the UK’. Paul Jones, managing director and co-founder of
last year and then again this time out, I’d be thrilled. “I’d be thrilled to be part of that wider scene. I have nothing but thanks and gratitude for the British brewers
Cloudwater, which also scooped 11 out of the 50 best
that continue to push everyone and make us work even
beers to be released last year, said he expected the
harder.
business to have dropped out of the top ten this time around. “I really thought the top ten would be out of sight this year. We were thrilled with last year’s results but to
Jones added that Cloudwater expects to celebrate its third birthday this summer with an event that will encompass the wider beer and brewing community. “We don’t want to hold a Cloudwater festival. We
be honest, I thought we dropped the ball a little in 2017.
want inclusivity where breweries, bottle shops and other
However that said, our standards are going up and we are
businesses can take part and benefit. We want to broaden
being harder and harder on ourselves,” he said.
out the positive impact good beer can have.”
Jones added: “We work really hard to make beer
Brian Dickson, head brewer at Northern Monk Brew
people are excited by and it’s interesting to see that many
Co, said the reception of its Wylam collaboration I Like To
of the beers that have been recognised this time out were
Moob It Moob It was one of its highlights of 2017. “We’re really happy with the reception that beer received and it performed well on RateBeer, too,” he said. “Featuring in the Top 100 is a great surprise but it’s also validation of the work and commitment we put in here. It’s a marker to show that what we’re doing is working. Dickson added: These accolades help improve our recognition on an international scale and will only push us to do things bigger and better.”
also the ones that scored eight out of eight when it came to our own internal analysis. “It’s rewarding to know that the consumer, and Cloudwater, agrees that those beers were our best work.” Jones added that recognition through Ratebeer continues to be held in very high regard at Cloudwater. He explained: “Criticism of it is short-sighted, in my opinion. Of course people could see that as convenient
Fuller's to host London Brewers' Alliance beer festival
T
that capacity is likely to be capped at around 1,000. He said: “This festival reinforces what a strong and vibrant brewing scene we have in London. Being able
he latest London Brewers’ Alliance festival will take
to get 40 breweries interested over the course of one
place this June, hosted by Fuller’s at its West London
meeting shows that.”
brewery. Around 40 breweries will be taking part in the festival, which takes place on 23rd June. Confirmed names so far include Beavertown, Five Points Brewing Company, Fuller’s, Mondo Brewing Company and Gipsy Hill. Admission is expected to cost around £30 and that includes a glass as well as beer in both thirds and taster measures during the event. John Keeling, brewing ambassador at Fuller’s, told us
brewersjournal.info
Keeling added that the festival, the costs of which are being underwritten by Fuller’s, is expected to become an annual event. More details on tickets and the full brewery lineup will be announced in due course. Recently, Keeling was named the first chairman of The London Brewers’ Alliance. "It was created on a more social level, to bring together those of us with the common purpose of brewing great beer in our capital city," he explained.
March 2018
11
n e ws
London Fields appoints Talfryn Provis-Evans as head brewer L
explore the true meaning of collaboration.”
Provis-Evans, who left the position of head brewer at
revised and revamped, will be contract brewed at
London’s Redchurch, has also worked as technical brewer
Truman’s in Hackney Wick. This leaves the LFB site
at Crate Brewery, as well as at Beavertown and St Peter’s
open for small-batch beer production, something that
Brewery in Suffolk.
will commence once the brewhouse has been installed
ondon Fields Brewery has appointed Talfryn ProvisEvans, formerly of Redchurch, as its head brewer.
The appointment is the first addition to the brewing team since Carlsberg acquired London Fields Brewery
The core range of beers, which are currently being
towards the end of 2018. Provis-Evans added: “We’re going through the process
(LFB) in a joint venture with Brooklyn Brewery in the
as we speak but I want to a brewhouse that will allow me
summer of 2017.
to make any beer out there.
Commenting on his appointment, Provis-Evans said the role was an “exciting opportunity” for any brewer to
"I want this brewery to have a consistent core because that’s such a key part of being successful. "And I want this brewery to become an important part
take on. He told us: “Never before have I been able to have such a level of control, not just over the specification of the brewhouse, but the recipe formulation and the creative future of London Fields Brewery. “Any any brewer and it’s the fluidity of the situation here that really appeals. Away from the core range there is no fixed plan regarding what beers we need to create, and that is really exciting. We want to work with local breweries, other businesses, scientists and others to
Brausol performs strongly in Brewlab test
of the beer culture we have here in London. The potential is exciting.” Dipak Nayar from London Fields Brewery, added: “We’ve taken our time to make the right head brewer appointment, and I am glad we did. "They needed to have the quality we were looking for, along with a creative vision for this brewery. "Talfyrn gives us that and I’m excited for what the future holds.”
clarified beer. Brewlab did note that when the beer was unsettled in cask, traditional finings worked better on the resuspension.
B
rausol, the silica-based clarification aid, has performed strongly against isinglass and auxillary in
a recent Brewlab clarification test. The clarification aid, which is proving increasingly popular with UK breweries, is also said to carry a longer shelf life, more cost-effective that traditional finings, and is also vegetarian/vegan-friendly Brewlab Training and Analysis recently put Brausol to
Charlie Papazian leaves Brewers Association
C
harlie Papazian, the founder and past president of the US Brewers Association, will leave the group in
2019 following 40 years in the industry. Bob Pease, president and CEO, Brewers
the test and Keith Thomas, director of Sunderland-based
Association, said: “We are all here today because of
business, said: “Non-gluten beers were selected for
Charlie Papazian. His influence on the homebrewing
testing after primary fermentation when attenuation was
and craft brewing community is immeasurable."
complete and before primary settlement of yeast.” “Initial settlement after 23 hours indicated a clear
Papazian will spend his final year at the BA completing many projects, including a craft brewing history archive
difference in OD with little difference between isinglass,
project. The archive will house 40 years of craft beer
auxillary and Brausol samples.”
history in the form of more than 100,000 publications,
“Brausol was comparable or better than isinglass or
photographs, audiotapes, films, videos, and documents—
standard auxiliary on the primary settlement at 70μl and
including 140 video interviews of the pioneers of
350μl doses.”
American craft brewing—and will be accessible to
This is perfect for racking, kegging or bottling
12
March 2018
researchers via the BA.
Brewers Journal
n e ws
Bath Ales installs 12 fermenting vessels at new brewery
B
ath Ales has reached the latest milestone with its latest brewery following the installation of 12 new
fermenting vessels. The multi-million pound brewery will undertake its first
to the English premium lager category.” He added added: “We’ve used the opening of the brewery to make sure our core range is as good as it possibly can be. Along with the lager, we’ll also be
brew in the middle of March ahead on an opening in May
launching a west coast IPA into the permanent Bath Ales
of this year. The move doubles the capacity at Bath ales.
range.”
The newly named Hare Brewery is being built at Bath
Alongside the major brewery build, Roger Ryman, who
Ales’ existing headquarters in Warmley, between Bath
oversees brewing and production at Bath Ales and St
and Bristol.
Austell Brewery, has used the project as an opportunity
Fronted by flagship ale Gem, the four-vessel brew house will have the capacity to produce more than 50,000 brewers’ barrels of beer – the equivalent of more than 14.5 million pints. British business Musk Engineering has been tasked with the fitting and installation of the new brewery. In
to grow and strengthen the core brewing and beer quality team. Gerry Condell, who been working with the company for more than 15 years, has been appointed as trade quality brewer. Mick Stawniczy has also been appointed as Bath Ales
addition to the creation of the new brew house, a new
site operations manager and will head up production at
bottling line is also being installed.
the new brewery.
In addition to Bath Ales’ existing range of beers, for
Ryman said: “From the offset, the team had a very clear
the first time, the west country brewer will also be able to
vision for the new brewery, and it’s really exciting to see it
create a lager. An exciting schedule of new beers will also
start to take shape as all the major equipment gets fixed
launch alongside the brewery opening, including an IPA.
into place. Whilst it’s full steam ahead for the project, the
Darren James, a senior brewer with Bath Ales for nearly 15 years, commented: “As we edge ever closer to completion, the brewing team can’t wait to start using the
transition when the new brewery opens will be very much business as usual for our customers.” “We have a highly skilled brewing team in place at Bath Ales. Our people, coupled with the very best
new kit. “The brew house’s versatility means we can
technical equipment and support, along with only
experiment with even more beer styles alongside what
choosing the best ingredients for our beers, means we’ve
Bath Ales drinkers already know and love.
got all the tools we need to take Bath Ales into its exciting
“Thanks to the installation of a lauter tun, for the first
next chapter. We hope opening of the project will put a
time we’ll have the equipment, and capacity, to brew
shining light on the brewery industry in the south west
an English lager. It’ll be brewed to exacting technical
and beyond, and we can’t wait to open the doors to our
standards and we hope it’ll be an anticipated new addition
loyal customers.”
14
March 2018
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Fourpure opens doors on new £2.5m brewery
F
ourpure has increased its capacity by 400% following the installation of its new £2.5m brewouse.
The company has invested in a four vessel Craft-
Star brewing system from GEA in addition to 12 new 200-hectrelitre fermentation tanks, two grain silos and automated malt handling system. The latter enables Fourpure to crush its own grain on site, giving greater control over production. The Bermondsey business can now brew up to eight times a day, which will increase output to over 14 million pints per year. The GEA system, incorporates a mash tun, lauter tun, brew kettle and a whirlpool, facilitating the production of exceptional quality beer. Co-founder of Fourpure, Daniel Lowe, commented: “Coming from a technology background, I have always wanted to invest in this element of the business as much as we can, to keep innovating and to ensure we are best in class. This new brewing system is one of the best in the world and the first of its kind in the UK.” To celebrate the launch of the new brewhouse, Fourpure unveiled six new beers for the occasion, which included Deep South, a Peach Sour and Easy Peeler, a Citrus IPA.
London Craft Beer Festival moves to Tobacco Dock in 2018
Greg Wells, co-founder of We Are Beer, explained: “The festivals are an opportunity to celebrate brewers and modern brewing culture from across the globe and
L
ondon Craft Beer Festival will host its largest event to
have been designed to be great value for money, giving
date at Tobacco Dock, Docklands this August.
all ticket holders the opportunity to explore all of the
The festival, which features breweries such as
Mikkeller, Duggess, Stillwater Artisnal, Verdant,
hundreds of beers – a real festival of flavour. “In our continued quest to champion the incredible
Beavertown and Oskar Blues, complements events in
upcoming talent we are excited about the potential
Bristol and Edinburgh.
for our ‘Raise the Bar’ competition to give young, new
New to the 2018 events is the ‘Raise the Bar’ initiative, which will enable consumers to sample winning beers from new-to-market brewers. The organisers are encouraging submissions from upcoming brewers, which will independently blind tasted
brewer’s a platform to showcase their beer on a UK stage.” Jenn Merrick, founder of community-based brewery, Earth Station, added: “I am delighted to be asked by Dan and Greg to be a judge for Raise the Bar. “I am a great believer in opening up the industry to a
before the top four brewers are invited to attend all three
more diverse group of people – so it’s good to see an
festivals, providing them with a platform to showcase their
initiative like this which supports new talent.”
beer to around 17,000 people across the country. The Raise the Bar panel includes: Jenn Merrick,
Potential brewers (under 2 years in commercial production) are asked to enter online at https://
former Beavertown head brewer and founder of a new
raisethebar.wearebeer.com/ before submitting some
community based brewery, Earth Station, Ben Freeman,
samples of their beer for panel review.
co-founder and brewer at Pressure Drop and Jonny Garrett from Craft Beer Channel, alongside Greg and Dan
Entry deadline for Raise the Bar is Monday 12th March 2018.
from We Are Beer.
16
March 2018
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Style and Substance There are a number of different technical reasons for choosing cask or kegs for dispense but for many, the choice still often comes down to image, argues Dr Keith Thomas from Brewlab.
a blind tasting of the same beer dispensed from the two containers. Moreover, what of new and novel beers which may have advantages from keg technology? Do kegs intrinsically degenerate beers or could some be suited to their form? The interest of some brewers in adopting keg technology suggests that they may have advantages. If so then what? To objectively compare cask and keg it is necessary
by Dr Keith Thomas
to separate the processing which is commonly but not essentially associated with keg – filtration and
W
pasteurisation. Big brewery production uses kegs as a hat image does your brewery
convenient vessel to hold filtered or pasteurised beer
choose to illustrate its beer? For
because they can be filled easily without contact with air
many this will be a pint of ale on
and don’t have unhygienic closures of wood and plastic.
a bar, in a drinkers hand or pulling frothily from a beer engine.
In others it may be beer exiting from the brewery or
As a result sterile, bright and brewery carbonated beer can remain sterile for weeks and be easily connected in the pub without the need for yeast settling. As such
delivering to the pub. If the latter what vessel is shown,
they are ideally suited to mass production and rapid
cask or keg? For 100% of UK breweries I would bet casks
processing.
are well to the foreground, even in larger SIBA producers. In this view cask is the epitome of craft brewing.
They are also suited to small brewery beers which are also filtered if the brewery wishes to produce specialist
Traditional, solid and reliably historic the image of a cask
styles such as continental lagers, stouts and a wide
says: “This is beer as perfected over centuries, no high
variety of international beers traditionally served in such a
tech input, just skilled down to earth goodness. Drink me
manner. Keeping such beers sterile and away from air is
now to share in the delight”. The message is even better
essential and difficult to achieve in a cask. More complex
if the casks are wooden but stainless steel still carries the
filling, and cleaning, systems will be needed with kegs
impression and generates the salivation.
but are not impossible.
Kegs, in contrast proclaim the intrusive finger of
However, this doesn’t mean that kegs can’t be used
technology, of high pressure fizz and, due in no small part
for beer containing yeast. Kegs contain two openings
to high pressure consumer campaigning, vile flavours and
within their central boss. The inner draw tube allows
evil intentions.
beer to be pushed out of the cask while the surrounding
The truth of all this depends on your preconceptions and doesn’t always hold up in the clinical conditions of
brewersjournal.info
sleeve is connected to a gas inlet. This typically receives CO2 under high pressure to push the beer out. However,
March 2018
19
Co m m e nt
k eg
vs
ca s k
it can just as easily be left open to allow air into the keg
for resuspension if the cask is disturbed. In a keg the
while the beer is pulled out by a beer engine in the same
sediment will be spread across the base of the vessel and
was as from a cask. Despite their different connections
be more easily drawn into the outflowing beer.
casks and kegs are just vessels. A more pertinent issue is whether kegs would allow
While this is a reasonable hypothesis it is also subject to a number of influences which may overlap cask and
cask ale to undergo secondary conditioning. Again being
keg effectiveness. Yeast sediment volume depends
just a vessel there is no reason why it shouldn’t. Kegs can
not only on cask geometry but yeast strain, yeast
be filled through the central spear and sealed before
concentration, fining dosing and effectiveness, age and
dispense. Carbonation can develop during storage and
character of the beer and possibly another dozen other
be released from the gas inlet by venting. They do in fact
features we fight to control from gyle to gyle.
have a major advantage in being easy to flush with CO2 or
Cask geometry is no guarantee of clarity. Beer is
mixed gas before filling so minimising the potential for
commonly dispensed from upended casks via siphons
oxidation and staling.
and numerous experiments show kegs to be equally
Filling against a gas blanket shouldn’t be an
effective in delivering clear cask conditioned beer. In fact
infringement on cask ale. Most large breweries and many
a coarse filter on the outlet sleeve can reduce the yeast
others do this with casks anyway. A more protective
removed.
procedure would be to couple the gas input line to a
As long as external pressure is not applied to keg
demand valve in the cellar. This device allows CO2 or
beer there is no reason it cannot perform as well as cask
mixed gas into the keg (or cask) as a strict replacement
dispense. Add pressure, however, and there will inevitably
for beer removed and so again limits oxidation and
be differences – although not necessarily negative.
staling. Although contentious to purists the carbonation
Carbonation is accepted as a major factor in beer quality
in the beer still results from yeast activity and doesn’t
and a lightly carbonated keg beer is likely to be better
compromise the purity of cask ale being beer containing
received than a flat cask pint. However, we are straying
active live yeast.
out of the accepted criteria for cask ale and a more highly
So far kegs can be regarded as simply different shaped vessels for cask ale to conduct its traditional action of
carbonated keg beer will alter character considerably. Whatever the technical reasoning for choosing cask or
secondary fermentation. Perhaps the major difference in
kegs for dispense the choice for many of us is often still
effect on cask beer is a result of their shape rather than
due to image. The cask at rack or the cask on dispense
their dispense system.
capturing far more of brewing romance than a keg and
Casks are cask shaped to allow yeast to settle in their
flowjet valve. That said it hasn’t taken long for plastic
belly and not in the tap. This maximises the volume of
casks to be accepted as another feature of technical
clear dispensed beer. With a small area for settlement
progress so perhaps the keg does have a future, if only in
this compresses the sediment so minimising the potential
the background of your deliveries. u
20
March 2018
Brewers Journal
Petainer, the global leader in one-way kegs The petainerKeg™ range is tailored to the exacting needs of our customers, whilst protecting their brand and product integrity, and providing superior ECOnomic benefits. www.petainer.com
MEET
THE
B REWER
N O RTH ER N
M O N K
Leap of Faith Significant expansion, producing excellent beers, hiring best-in-class brewers and then recognised as one the best breweries in the world. It’s been a pretty decent few months for Leeds-based Northern Monk and now they’re at that point, they’re in no mood to look back.
Dickson, so is his commitment and passion for making the best beer he possibly can. “Being recognised by RateBeer was a huge delight and a shock. It matters a lot because we’ve put our heart and soul into this, but I don’t want it to stop there,” he explains. “We are in great company with UK breweries like Beavertown and Magic Rock in that Top 100 list. But sustained success would mean seeing Northern Monk beers in as many fridges and on as many taps as something like Gamma Ray or Highwire is on such a
by tim sheahan
regular basis. He adds: I’m under no illusions either, though. It’s up to
A
us to ensure our beers have the quality and consistency
lex Smithies is a name that will long
to deserve those taps and shelf spaces. And I think we’re
resonate with fans of Huddersfield Town
there, or at least very, very close to it.”
A.F.C. The goalkeeper’s heroics ensured
Dickson and the 30-strong team at Northern Monk
The Terriers were promoted to the second
are suitably proud of their output but despite the diverse
tier of English football in the play-off final of
range the brewery puts out, its with numbers like the 4.1%
2012.
However it was scoring them, rather than attempting
Session IPA Eternal and its 5.4% American Pale Ale, Faith, that you sense they are truly at ease.
to prevent them, that carried Huddersfield past the finish
“We are happy and proud with those beers. They’re
line when they defeated Sheffield United 8-7 in a penalty
the house beers on the brewery floor and they’re helping
shoot-out thanks to Smithies’ winning strike. It was the
drive our canned growth, too,” he says.
longest shoot-out ever to be contested in the League One play-offs.
Dickson glows when he explains that distributors such as James Clay and Cave Direct are bringing them into
The following July, Huddersfield were one month
their core offering, while Eternal continues to enjoy great
away from kicking off their second term in the Football
success through its sales in supermarkets such as Marks
League Championship under the guidance of manager
& Spencer and Morrisons.
Mark Robins. The same month, Russell Bisset launched a business he called Northern Monk. Fast-forward four and half years and Northern
“Working with supermarkets is a welcome part of what we do,” explains Russell Bisset. “Those accounts make up around 10-15% of what we do and we’ve turned down
Monk is one of the UK’s most respected breweries. It’s
opportunities to work with others because we want to
also making serious impressions on the global stage,
ensure we’ve putting out the best beer we can, and we
becoming one of the Top 100 best new breweries in the
have room to grow within those arrangements, too.”
world at the prestigious RateBeer Awards. And for Brian Dickson, head brewer at the Leedsbased business, his beloved Huddersfield Town are doing pretty damn well, too. The team he is so passionate about
Bisset states that Morrisons is the cheapest place to buy Northern Monk beer. And it’s something he holds as a badge of honour. “We want our beer to be available. We want people
are holding their own in The Premier League, the top tier
to enjoy it and not find it prohibitive. If you can find it in a
of the English game
supermarket then that’s surely a good thing,” he adds. And
“I’d love to speak at your event, I just need to think
there’s something to be said for a beer like Eternal being
of something to discuss other than football!” he replied
available in a four-pack, too. It is something you can enjoy
when asked if he’d deliver a talk at the recent Brewers
several of. That’s not something you could say about our
Lectures event held in Leeds at Northern Monk’s very
Strannik or Death stouts.” Upcoming expansion is also on the cards for Northern Monk.
own venue, The Old Flax Store. His love for the beautiful game is real, very real. But for
22
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Brewers Journal
Colin Stronge (l) and Brian Dickson (r): Northern Monk, February 2018
The brewery's main facility, located on the same estate
it. I don’t think we’ll fill the capacity off the cuff but we’re
bang opposite Leeds Brewery, houses four 50hl and two
presently in a position where we are selling everything we
100hl fermenting vessels. Its 50hl brewhouse takes two
make so the opportunity is obviously there.”
turns to fill up one of the larger tanks but come October,
Dickson attributes the consistency Northern Monk has
that will responsible for double turns at least four days a
achieved with beers like Eternal, Heathen, New World IPA
week.
and Faith for the constant increase in demand. But he also
The brewery has lined up eight additional 100hl tanks, investment that will enable the brewery to output 12 double brews a week, producing four times the amount of beer in the process. “We started by looking at the addition of two more
pinpoints the feverish reaction for its Patrons Project line of beers as a key catalyst, too. “They’ve gone off the scale. More than we expected they would and I feel we have a strong record on those, now. We still experiment, we play around and have lots
tanks, then four more tanks, but we took a step back.
of opportunities to try things out. And we’ll continue to do
We’ve been through it at the Old Flax Store and each
that, but we won’t compromise on quality when we do,
time you make that decision, you have to break into your
either,” he adds.
pipes again and also the drain the system, then its the
65% of Northern Monk’s output is now in canned
flooring issue and more utilities,” says Dickson. “Instead,
format. Something that will no doubt increase once a
we’ve taken the step to expand in a big way and grow into
new canning line arrives later this year. While they can
24
March 2018
Brewers Journal
currently output 2,000 cans per hour on a good day, that’ll
Expansion with the addition of the new FVs will free
go to anywhere between 6,000 and 12,000 when the new
up some tank space at The Old Flax Store, which means
kit is up and running.
more Lagers and greater experimentation within its
The aforementioned Patrons Project beers primarily
Imperial Stout offering. Consumer reaction to its latest
reach their adoring fans in this format, with most
release, the 12% Death, will see variants released in the
produced at the smaller brewing facility on the ground
future.
floor at The Old Flax Store. Some IPAs in this series,
“We want to sit this beer on coffee beans, sour
warrant housing in one of the 100hl tanks at the main site
cherries, cacao nibs. I think it’ll give it an extra dimension
though, such is the demand.
and something different to the addition of, say, cold brew
“That’s the beauty of having two sites,” says Dickson. “We’re in a position where we can offer a core and offer specials, too. Hopefully we’ll always be in a position
coffee in the tank or fruit puree,” says Dickson. “Not like there’s anything wrong with those, of course” Dickson would know. It’s 10% Strannik Imperial Stout
where we can offer both and I think you need to. You can’t
has taken on a life of its own at Northern Monk. Sticky
guarantee the success of specials forever, so you need a
Toffee, Black Forest and Campfire Marshmallow are also
consistent core. And equally, tastes towards your core can
versions that have gone down well with the paying public
change so you need to be able to offer something new
and, according to Dickson, cater for the demand for the
and fresh.”
on-trend ‘pastry stouts’.
brewersjournal.info
March 2018
25
MEET
THE
B REWER
N O RTH ER N
And it’s from speaking to Bisset, you get the impression that he’s happy with the variety of beers Northern Monk put out, but its nailing quality that it his
M O N K
replicate their taprooms on a regional basis. So if you can do it, do it.” And in recent years Northern Monk have adopted
ultimate goal, and one he has for the collective industry
that can-do attitude. Last year saw the addition of Colin
at large.
Stronge, formerly of Buxton Brewery to its ranks.
“I do think the UK has ground to make up with
A coup for any brewery and one that Bisset feels
consistency across range of styles. But I will temper that
shows that people of all experiences are buying-in to their
by saying beer is also all about experience, too. So I’ve
vision.
been blown away with something in the US when you’re
“We are passionate about beer but we needed more
in the middle of NYC or in country road in Vermont,” he
experience. He gives us 15 years extra experience," he
explains. “Still, nobody can come close to somewhere like
says. "When we set out in the early days it was Brian and
Hill Farmstead when it comes to consistency of styles.
I. We had little experience but we set out to make some
Here in the UK we tend to be doing certain styles very,
of the best beer in the UK. Call us naive, but that’s been
very well. But not all.”
at the core of what we wanted to do and I think we are
He adds: “I think that has something to do with the maturity, too. The scene is more mature there and
getting recognised now.” Bisset adds: “We don’t want to look back now. We’ve
many breweries stemmed from strong home brewing
talked internally about the pride of growing and each step
backgrounds.
in the business has been met by an increase in quality,
"They often enjoy the best direct sales opportunities, too. Which makes it a lot easier to feed back into QA and QC sooner rather than later.” “We’ve drained five or six beers in the last year, and
which seems quite rare. "We’ve gone through 1000% growth since the early days but the beer has only got better. We will continue as we are. We won’t look down and we won’t look back. We
that has a big impact on the bottom line but you need
set out to be a progressive Northern brewery and want to
to do it. However I truly believe a positive driver for the
ensure we remain that.
bottom line is looking at that US approach to taprooms
"And that means being honest to ourselves and honest
and direct sales. You speak to successful breweries.
to everyone else. Let the beer, and the stories behind
They don’t want to replicate their brewery. They want to
them, do the talking.” u
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March 2018
Brewers Journal
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Th e
B i g
I s s u e
T he
E conomics
of
B rewing
the Economics of Brewing The beer industry in 2018 is economics playing out in front of our very eyes, explains Alex Troncoso, co-founder and head brewer of Bristol’s Lost and Grounded Brewers. And in his recent talk at the inaugural Brewers Congress, which covered industry statistics, economics and brewing, he added that there are a number of key factors and market headwinds to pay attention to in order for your brewery to remain competitive in what is a increasingly crowded sector.
I
want to be different, like everyone I want to be like.” The lyric, found in US band King Missile’s track ‘It’s Saturday’, was written 25 years ago. But for Alex Troncoso co-founder and head brewer of Bristol’s Lost and Grounded Brewers, it also has a particular relevance to the brewing industry of 2018. “I think it must be a really fascinating time to be someone like Bart Watson (chief economist at the Brewers Association) at the moment because the way the brewing industry is going, it is like economics playing out in front of our very eyes,” explains Troncoso. “So I felt it was fitting to start with the quote above. “Wanting to be different, like everyone else, is something of a teenager complex. But when does different stop being truly different?” he asks. “There are thousands of breweries offering a range of similar products so who is different? And are we different because we primarily produce pale lager but then that’s a ridiculous notion because 90-something percent of the beer produced in the world is of that style, so I’m not so sure.” Troncoso co-founded Lost and Grounded Brewers with
28
March 2018
partner Annie Clements in the summer of 2016. Although the Bristol outfit only celebrated its first birthday last year, they have already made their name with excellent beers including their flagship Keller Pils. And head brewer Troncoso’s brewing journey itself is more than 20 years in the making. A home brewer from 1992, he graduated as a Chemical Engineer in 1996 from the Colorado School of Mines, but always dreamed of brewing. Troncoso subsequently completed a graduate degree in brewing as well as a Masters in Business. He played an integral role in the monumental expansion of Little Creatures in Fremantle, Australia, overseeing three production sites, and also served as brewing director at Camden Town Brewery. “We started Lost and Grounded Brewers in mid-2016 following about a year and a half of planning. We have seven employees, paying them the real Living Wage, and we are primarily known for our Keller Pils that accounts for at least of what we produce,” he explains. “I’ve studied, and have brewing experience, in lots of different countries. Having that perspective makes me agree with John Keeling of Fuller’s, who’ says that a great brewery should having a brewing philosophy. I’ve been fortunate enough to experience that at Little Creatures. That set the tone for me and I hope Lost and Grounded Brewers has that, too.”
In statistics
S
o let’s look at the UK briefly….“The UK is the number two producer of beer in the EU, producing 44 million hectolitres (The Brewers of Europe - Beer
Statistics released Nov 2016 using data from 2015). But we’re in a declining beer market with consumption down 4.6%, equal to 2.1HL. That is no small figure, and one that is greater than the output of many small UK producers
Brewers Journal
T he
E conomics
of
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THE
B I G
I SSUE
Number of brewers by country 2015
2010
Increase
% increase
UK
1880
828
1052
127
Germany
1388
1333
55
4
France
793
387
406
105
Italy
688
308
380
123
Switzerland
623
328
295
90
Spain
427
65
362
557
Czech Rep
390
151
239
158
Netherlands
320
125
195
156
Sweden
219
39
180
462
Austria
214
172
42
24
Total
6,942
3,736
3,206
86
The Brewers of Europe - Beer Statistics November 2016
combined,” he explains. “But the number of breweries in the UK are growing too. In the same period, the figure
Alex Troncoso, London, November 2018
He also points out the importance of the quote below. “What the next cycle will bring is anyone’s guess, but
rose from 828 in 2010 to 1880 in 2015. And that’s higher
brewers who proactively recognize that challenge and
still, now bringing it closers to 2000.”
focus on what they can control (quality and consistency,
Troncoso adds: “But we know things aren’t that
for instance) will be better positioned to ride the wave
straightforward, either. Drinking patterns are changing.
rather than watch it crash over them,” Bart Watson, said
People are wanting less, but better. So I think it’s also
in the article ‘Premiumization, pricing and positioning,
interesting to look at the figures for Germany in that
December 2016).
time. While the UK enjoyed a 127% increase in brewery
Troncoso explains that he thinks it’s important that all
numbers, the figure only grew 4%, which is hardly any
of of the breweries operating on a small scale and he
change at all.
even includes someone like Fuller's in that, because
“There are a number of reasons for that. You could
they are all “tiny compared to big internationals” and so
argue that the barriers to entry are far higher in Germany,
to operate on a small scale, you need to give people a
and the investment required to get of the ground are
reason to buy your beer.
more, too.”
So what has happened in the USA? “I find this situation really interesting as it demonstrates the rise and decline of beer categories that have taken place in the US in the last few decades,” he says. Troncoso points out that the market share of old regionals and value brands fell dramatically from 1950 to the modern day. At the same time, the premium brands start with a 19.4% market share in the 50s and enjoy steady growth to a high of 64.3%, concluding at 43.1% at the end of 2016. Elsewhere, segment three, which comprises craft, import, SuperPremium, Flavoured malt beverages start the graph with 6.5% market share, growing to a high of 35.1%.
brewersjournal.info
“Sure, you might nail the consistency side of things as much as you’d like compared to a bigger brewery with the resources they have, but what we have is the benefit of character and there is a certain beauty in not being quite perfect all of the time,” he says. “ There is a beauty and having that element of change.”
The economics of brewing
S
upply and demand is a fundamental principle in economics and it is fundamentally important to all of us involved in brewing. Using the figure overleaf
as a reference, it’s key to remember that in recent years
March 2018
29
Th e
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I s s u e
T he
E conomics
of
B rewing
Competitor Entry Timing
"As more entrants hit the market, it's possible prices will be forced down."
1. Pioneers - Innovative organisations making new markets 2. Early Imitators - Differentiated by marketing 3. Early Differentiators - Improve on a product, offer distinct benefits and features. Entry at growth stage of a market 4. Early Nichers - As markets hit saturation, new entrants look for specific niches. 5. Late Entrants - Must have clear advantage in efficiency, distribution or promotional weight. Can capitalise on existing networks.
there has maybe a scarcity in that space which helped drive up price a little,” explains Troncoso. ”But as more players enter the market, it’s possible that prices can be forced down, which can present an issue to brewers. We
says. Troncoso adds: “If you then look at the ‘Late Entrants’
are unable to control what happens as we don’t have
group. If you’re a brewery that falls into that group, that
the economies of scale that larger breweries can benefit
says to me that you’re likely to be a big brewery. You need
from so once more, you need to focus on what makes
to be efficient, have national access, good distribution,
you different, what makes you unique, what makes you
and economies of scale to be a success in this bracket. If
special.”
you’re a small brewery that’s late to the market, then it’s
He adds: “At the end of the day, the world has enough cover bands, people want some originals. As smaller breweries, we need to be prepared to branch out and
going to be more difficult. You need to have quality, you need to have the lot.” The acceptable price point of a beer may eventually
do what others aren't prepared to do. Let’s be honest,
be dragged down unless it is offset by other forces such
starting a brewery in the first place is a blend of ambition
as an increase in demand or the positioning of the brand.
and stupidity, with maybe a tiny bit of courage thrown in, too.
“A common path to growth, which is pretty common, is seeking out free listings for your beer. These are
“Yes, there are a lot of new players entering the field
commonly found in free of tie lines or those that offer
but I don’t think there is room for more. But the beer
rotational taps,” he says. “There is a lot of us fighting for
has to be good, it has to be considered, it has to be
those so one way of looking at those long term is by
thoughtful. And that can be done in many ways.”
offering discounts to the buyer as, let’s be honest, it’s a
Troncoso explains that we look at how competitors
buyers market. If you need more growth? Then you’re in
in the market (Principles of Marketing, Brassington and
the position where you have to offer additional discounts,
Pettitt, Pearson Education, 2006.) is mirrored in the
or you have to pay for installations at bars and pubs
brewing industry.
that will then pour your beers. Finally, the high profile/
“Even though I think a lot of us would like to think that
high volume accounts will require you to pay for listings,
we’re in the ‘Pioneer’ bracket, the reality is that most of us
provide discounts, and then perhaps offer further volume
are in the group of ‘Early Differentiators’. So if we’re doing
discounts, too.”
our Keller Pils, then it needs to be the best pale lager we can possibly make. The same if we were doing an IPA,” he
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March 2018
So what is happening in the USA? “This is interesting because growth is geared
Brewers Journal
T he
E conomics
towards the higher end of the average case price. That
of
B rewing
THE
B I G
I SSUE
and increased opportunities for small brewers to enter
Industry Constraints to Growth
demonstrates that you can make money from your beer
more into the mainstream as consumers and the trade
if it’s a quality product and grow at a good rate, too,” says
develops. As that happens, however, I think pressure
Troncoso. “But quality extends to the bigger picture as
will increase on pricing as it is really a buyers market,” he
well. Quality is how it looks, the taste and the aroma to
says. “The greatest challenge will be to continue gaining
the way you invoice the customer, how you deal with
distribution to reach our targets - we set up Lost and
them, and how you keep them happy. There are many
Grounded Brewers to become a regional brewer, and that
things you must deal with way before the consumer
takes focus and time. The most exciting opportunity we
tastes your beer. These all tie into what people consider
have now is growing sales: we have a full team, state-of-
quality.”
the-art brewery, excellent wholesalers and quality that is top notch.
The road ahead
He adds: “We will press ahead without distraction and get loads of delicious beer into people's hands. We also want to see Bristol continue to develop as a beer
F
or Troncoso, craft is about assembling a team of
destination and look forward to working with our fellow
people that care about the process from the start
brewers to form a united front to put us firmly on the map.
to the finish. To make a good product and have
“We are operating in a very crowded market, and conditions require all of us to be as efficient as possible
everything else flow on from that. “The industry continues to develop at a great pace
while operating on a small scale. Consideration must be
with so many breweries opening, so many new beers,
given to all aspects - making good beer is not enough.
so many events... it is crazy! I think there will be a trend
You need to also focus on culture, marketing, team,
towards good lager (ha, of course I would say that!),
branding, sales, distribution and production.” u
Australian Independent Brewing Industry – Constraints to Growth (All Busin
Australian Independent Brewing Industry – Constraints to Growth (All Businesses) % 60
53% 50
42%
40
32%
30
32%
20
15% 12%
10
0
Exise Rates
Accessing the market
Accessing capital
Managing cashflow
Consumer demand
Other constraints
Source: IBA Annual Survey 2016
Source: IBA Annual Survey 2016
brewersjournal.info
March 2018
31
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I ntellectual
P roperty
I N S I GHT
Protect your brand
You work hard to to build your brewery, the beers and the brand. We’re also in an increasingly competitive market and space on bar fonts and shop shelves remains a premium. So there’s no point spending months and years creating a vision and a name for yourself if you don’t protect it and prevent others from benefitting from your toil. Here, we speak to some of the leading experts in the field of intellectual property to find out what measures you need to adopt in this changing economic landscape. by Tim Sheahan
brewersjournal.info
B
eer is big business and breweries are moving to protect their brands. Research released towards the end of last
year revealed that nearly 2,000 (1,983) new trade mark registrations were made during 2016. It was a considerable 19% increase on the year previous and that figure has no doubt risen since, too. “The craft beer sector has been booming - and now there are not only a number of new entrants, but also more established breweries, larger drinks corporations and supermarkets all wanting to establish a share in the market, said Jeremy Drew, a commercial partner at RPC, which carried out the research. He explained: “With more players in the market, it’s becoming more important that companies protect their intellectual property. This is an innovative area of the market as well as a fast growing one. Craft beer brands
March 2018
33
“ in s i g h t
I ntellectual
P roperty
brands travel well and must also be protected in valuable overseas markets. For a UK brewer, Europe is an obvious target market and, to obtain appropriate protection, many have opted for the extremely good value EU trade mark that applies across all member states.” So what will happen to the UK rights currently provided by EU registrations post-Brexit? While the answer is not yet known, commentators
For a UK brewer, Europe is an obvious target market and, to obtain appropriate protection, many have opted for the extremely good value EU trade mark that applies across all member states Jo Pritchard, TLT
and relevant bodies believe there is likely to be some provision made that would essentially maintain protection in the UK as well as, separately, in the EU. Given these expectations, it seems the question is really one of administration, Pritchard tells us. She says: “The European Commission has indicated that any pre-Brexit rights should be recognised automatically in the UK without incurring any costs for the rights owner. However, the UK Intellectual Property Office (which is tasked with managing UK rights) has been less clear, saying: "the government is looking at various
are often prized by consumers for their unique methods
options and we are discussing the best way forward with
of brewing or the original ingredients used.
users of the system." One of the options under discussion
“However, much of this does not lend itself to
protection by registration and so the brand name and look of the packaging takes on much more significance in terms of protecting advantage at the point of sale.” RPC said that with the number of trade marks rising,
is a requirement to opt in to maintain UK protection (possibly with a cost attached).” Another right caught in the Brexit web is the less common geographical indication (GI) – a sign used to designate a product's specific geographical origin that
copycat/brand conflict disputes are also likely to
often relates to premium products, such as Kentish Ale
increase.
and Rutland Bitter.
“The nature of the craft beer market presents certain IP challenges. Rather than one flagship brand, consumers
GIs, Pritchard says, are currently protected under EU law and the EU Commission has clearly indicated that
seem to be interested in a range of more differentiated products and brands – but this means a greater chance of similar brands clashing, Drew added. “Legal disputes can be costly and disruptive so it is sensible for businesses to
Key considerations
ensure they are protecting themselves from the outset but also being sensible about what fights they choose to take on.” With that in mind, we spoke to some leading experts in the field to ascertain what changes you should be looking out for, and how to act upon them.
Brexit and the brand
H
istorically, brewers have led the way in registering their trade marks to protect their brands. The red Bass triangle was for example
the first mark ever to be registered in the UK, explains Jo Pritchard, a partner TLT Since then, major brewers have maintained significant trade mark portfolios and the craft beer movement has triggered a rapid increase in the number of registered
Despite all of this uncertainty, there are steps that brewers can take now to protect their interests in this changing environment: Ensure they have trade mark registrations to protect their current activities. Check registrations will remain fit for current and future purposes and file additional applications where necessary. Prepare and budget for any changes to their future filing strategy and maintenance program. Take advice to understand the risks given the likely outcomes arising from Brexit. Review any agreements that refer to EU IP rights or list the EU as the relevant territory for enforcement issues i.e. agreements such as licences or co-existence agreements.
beer brands. She explains: “This is not just a UK phenomenon; beer
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the UK government should implement new legislation to ensure their continued protection. This seems highly likely and GIs may simply fall within the Repeal Bill.
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expensive exercise.”
Brewing the perfect craft beer brand
She adds: “There are a number of more technical issues to consider, such as how pending applications will be managed and what will happen to ongoing oppositions – particularly those based on UK unregistered rights. And what happens if a significant part of the "use"
T
he incredible growth in craft beer continues at pace on both sides of the Atlantic. Recent growth in the US has seen more than a 24% increase and
that is required to maintain EU trade marks after the initial
the UK is also playing its part with 65% over the past five
five year period is pre-Brexit use in the UK?”
years. There are, of course, also craft opportunities in new
Exporting your brand
markets and notably China where the wider beer market is stagnating, says Edward Carstairs, senior associate at Gill Jennings & Every LLP.
F
Drinkers are increasingly keen to engage in an
or Ken Sewell, head of business and development
“experiential” relationship with their purchase. That means
at Nucleus IP, Trade Mark Attorneys, many
there is a thirst for artisan products and a willingness
companies are aware of the need to obtain
to pay a premium price, where provenance plays an
protection for their valuable brands, yet still procrastinate.
important part of the story. For example, Carlsberg Export
Trade Mark registration will secure certain rights over the
has undergone a £15m rebrand with a focus on its Danish
competition: allowing uninterrupted use of your brands
heritage in an effort to tap into this
and preventing third parties from registering identical or closely resembling brands in the same business area. He says that trade Mark rights are territorial, therefore
Consequently, he says, there are significant opportunities for brewers so there has never been a better time for start-ups to give up the day job for full time
having obtained UK Trade Mark registration does not
brewing. Existing brewers will also have the opportunity to
guarantee the same brand will qualify for protection in
grow their business, perhaps with a lucrative buy-out later
your overseas target markets. IP firms can investigate this
down the line, whilst the big breweries are also looking to
on your behalf offering identical prior searches through to
take a share of this increasingly profitable sector.
full availability searches. Whilst it makes good economic sense to seek to
All of this does present challenges from a branding perspective but what are those challenges and how can
protect your brands in all jurisdictions where you presently
they be addressed? Is it possible to find a unique space
trade, or at least intend to over the next 3-4 years, it is not
with so many breweries now operating? How do you grow
always a straightforward process.
your brand or achieve a successful exit and how does a
Sewell explains: “As specialist Trade Mark Attorneys,
brand strategy help? What are the risks, opportunities and
we were recently approached by a company to
challenges? This article tries to answer some of these key
investigate protection for one of their brands which they
questions as it looks at some of the growing trends in the
were looking to possibly export to the US. Unfortunately,
sector.
our research revealed an identical existing registration in the same class (category), which generally means there was little or no chance of obtaining Trade Mark protection.
A rose by any other name would smell as sweet... wouldn’t it? Carstairs says: “Of course you need a great product
Moreover, it would, under such circumstances, have been
but the name is equally critical to success. Now that
extremely difficult to even attempt to make use of the
supermarkets are jumping aboard the craft beer train
brand in the States, whilst that earlier registration remains
with the likes of Waitrose introducing 25 new beers
on record.
from names including Redchurch, Five Points Brewing
“Occasionally, ways around a problem of this kind are possible. For instance, the US employs a different law to
Company, Alchemy and Wild Beer Co, it is harder to find a name that is not already taken.
the majority of other countries, a so called ‘first to use’
“Any brewery will of course have given very careful
system rather than a ‘first to register’. On this occasion
thought and will have invested considerable time and
this was irrelevant as the company had yet, thankfully, to
attention to its QA scheme. A similar approach is required
begin go to market in the States.
when it comes to choosing a product name.
“Taking all future associated costs into consideration,
“An enforced name change would be a serious issue
such as lining up distributors, arranging shipping, local
not just financially but also in terms of management time,
labelling requirements etc. it is prudent to consider using
reputation and consumer brand awareness. For example
the investigative services of an expert IP firm before
it could be terminal to a proposed sale of a craft brewery
embarking on what could turn out, otherwise, to be an
if the potential purchaser wants to develop the existing
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An enforced name change would be a serious issue not just financially but also in terms of management time, reputation and consumer brand awareness Edward Carstairs, Gill Jennings & Every LLP
he adds. “Naturally the craft beer industry is a friendly and collaborative place and historically there has been respect for a gentleman’s agreement to settle a dispute without lawyers (and probably over a beer or two). This is changing,” he says. “There is increasing money and power in the industry whether from big breweries taking stakes in, or buying out, smaller businesses or the incredible growth of craft breweries themselves (see for example BrewDog’s launch of a $50m crowd-funding round in the US to “turbo-charge” its US expansion).” Carstairs adds: “Craft beer brands are increasingly valuable commodities worth protecting, as witnessed by SABMiller’s £120m purchase of craft brewer Meantime in 2015. And the beers themselves can also be eye wateringly expensive, with some selling at $50-$100 or more per 750ml (e.g. Samuel Adams' Utopias, Brewdog's Sink The Bismarck beers). All of this means that disputes
successful brand only to find that a competitor has beaten
are not as “friendly” as they were before and are less
them to the name in a key market.
readily resolved (especially if multiple global, wealthy
“You can reduce the risk by running clearance checks
and searches as early as possible and ideally before
stakeholders and not just individual brewers are involved). “It is not just the domestic market that needs to be
you have made the final decision to adopt a new brand
considered. The surge in exports has added a further
name. It is always a good idea to have a few options
level of risk. It may still be possible for a brewer to come
available and to try not to get wedded to a particular one
to an agreement in its home market but that is far less
before you know it is clear. There are checks you can run
likely where that brewer attempts to export to a new
yourself and the obvious places to start are beer rating
territory that is home to a long-standing incumbent.
sites such as www.ratebeer.com, www.untappd.com and www.beeradvocate.com.” However, Carstairs says, these will not give a definitive answer for a number of reasons. Firstly, similar brands will not necessarily be located and these can be as serious a threat as identical ones. Secondly, it is not just earlier beer brands that can pose a risk but also wine and spirit brands and even soft drinks. “For brewers, those items will seem completely
“Brewers need to be aware of the risks abroad whilst also keeping an eye on competitors entering their space. Notably, American craft brewers exports are at an alltime high exceeding US$121m, with the UK seeing a 10% increase in imports. Small and independent craft brewers are now getting in on the international market. “However, any adversarial action needs to be considered carefully particularly bearing in mind how the matter might play out in the press. BrewDog certainly
different but the legal position is that there can still be a
found themselves in the firing line after a cease and desist
risk of confusion because beer can come from the same
letter was sent to a family-run pub regarding their use of
manufacturers (when you think of large companies like
the name “Punk”.”
Diageo or even smaller microbreweries selling both craft beer and craft spirits), with the products being
The game is changing and the stakes will only get higher so craft breweries must adapt, he states.
complementary (like a shandy containing lemonade and
Protect your brand
beer) and sitting together behind a busy and noisy bar,” he explains. On a third point, Carstairs says it’s not just names that are in use that you need to worry about - a name which has been registered as a trade mark (even if there’s no corresponding product on the market yet) can also cause serious problems. “Running the right checks early can be key to ensuring
O
nce the brand name has been cleared for use, the next action is to obtain registered protection in the key markets.
In the UK, you start building up unregistered rights as
soon as you start using a mark, but many other countries
the success or otherwise of a brand and business.
don’t recognise unregistered or “use-based” rights and
Forewarned is forearmed. Making this kind of investment
instead operate a “first to file” policy. That means you
in “clearance” may be painful at the time but it can really
could struggle to take action against someone copying
save you money (and a huge headache) in the long run,”
you or attempting to register a conflicting mark because
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you would only have unregistered rights on which to rely. Even where unregistered rights are recognised,
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lawyer, Moore Blatch. According to Blatch, many businesses are surprised
it’s easier and so cheaper to enforce registered rights
to discover they don’t, in-fact, own their brand. This is
because you simply need to produce a registration
a common mistake made by young businesses. This
certificate rather than evidence the extent of use.
issue invariably arises when a business contracts out the
A registered trade mark is also an asset that can be
production of their sales and marketing to marketing or
of great value to a business when it comes to securing
design agencies or individuals. Just because you may
investment and/or looking for an exit (e.g. purchase by a
have paid a company for the ingenious branding for your
bigger brewery – see SABMiller/Meantime). The absence
latest pale ale or gin, doesn’t necessarily mean you own
of a registered trade mark can lead to problems in due
the copyright.
diligence with your company seeing a lower valuation or even the termination of a potential sale.
She explains: “This normally only becomes an issue when a business owner wants to sell some or all of his or her company. Valuing a business is plainly dependent
Make sure you own your brands
on the assets that it holds. Whilst there may have been significant investment over the years – whether in
N
equipment, buildings, staff or software - the real value
obody likes to discover they don’t own their
lies in non-tangible assets, often referred to as ‘goodwill’.
brands, especially when that brand represents
These assets may include intellectual property, unique
a business borne of years of hard-work,
recipes, customer loyalty and corporate branding. Of
dedication, and experience. And, anybody can buy a
these assets, one of the most important is the branding
brewery, but not anybody can craft drinks that people
on a business’ drinks.
want to buy, says Dorothy Agnew, partner and copyright
How to create the perfect craft brew brand Despite all of this uncertainty, there are steps that brewers can take now to protect their interests in this changing environment: Choose a good name - something catchy and also sufficiently different from any existing registered or unregistered brands (not just for beer but also wider alcoholic and soft drinks). Search thoroughly and early - you can do a certain amount online yourself, but consider also getting professional advice. Investing now could save you a huge rebranding headache down the line. Be pragmatic and creative when it comes to disputes - the B2B approach may well be best initially, but know what your end game is and try to be practical. Know what you are willing to give up and where your red line is. It will rarely be worth going to Court and it helps if the parties are flexible e.g. offering a reasonable run-off period. Register your beer names as trade marks they’ll be easier to enforce if the need ever arises and you’ll be making yourself more attractive to would-be investors and buyers. Think ahead - if foreign markets are key to your future success (especially the US or Far East), get
brewersjournal.info
“By law, copyright is automatically owned by the
professional advice early on about an appropriate clearance and registration strategy, taking in to account budget, priorities, size of market, risk of copycats and squatters etc. Make sure you own the rights to your logos, labels, packaging designs and beer - in the UK, if an agency or someone else has designed these for you, they will own the copyright unless there’s a contract in place that stipulates otherwise or unless they’ve actively assigned the rights to you. Your business partners, including your contract brewer, should sign robust contracts that acknowledge you as the owner of the IP rights and state that they will not apply to register your marks or anything similar themselves. Hopefully you will never need to rely on these agreements but relationships do break down and being smart at the outset will help to protect you. Develop a sensible brand protection strategy (dealing with all of the above) with the help of a brand protection expert - many craft brewers have limited budgets and getting professional advice will help you maximise whatever funds are available. Brand protection doesn’t have to cost the earth and doing something is always better than doing nothing. By Edward Carstairs, senior associate at Gill Jennings & Every LLP
March 2018
37
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developer, be it website or marketing agency, as the creator of the relevant works even though you paid for the creation. Therefore, it is imperative to check that the developer transferred ownership of those rights to you, or you should negotiate for them to do so. This could include your logo, corporate imagery, names of your drinks plus any individual branding of bottles, among others.” Agnew goes on to add that the situation with Intellectual Property (IP) is similar, and is often one of the most disputed issues between competing businesses. So, it is also necessary to consider whether you have signature products for which you are famous. And if you are every looking to sell some or all of your business then buyers will want to ensure that the company they are looking to purchase fully owns the IP to
The General Data Protection Regulation and why brewers need to take note Despite all of this uncertainty, there are steps that brewers can take now to protect their interests in this changi There are very few industries that will be unaffected by the new General Data Protection Regulation (GDPR) that comes into force in May 2018, and the brewing industry is no exception, says Dorothy Agnew, partner and copyright lawyer, Moore Blatch. If you have a database of customers, former customers, mailing lists, information on current or former employees; or indeed another database with information on individuals, then you will need to adhere to GDPR.
The regulations in brief The General Data Protection Regulation (GDPR) is an EU wide regulation that extends the scope of the UK's Data Protection rules. Becoming law on 25th May 2018, failure to comply with the regulation could incur hefty fines of up to EUR 20 million, or 4% of a company’s turnover, whichever is higher. Greater rights of anyone that's on any of your databases or computer systems Individuals, such as your customers, prospective customers, former employees, interviewees etc., will have many more rights, including: the right to have data held on them erased, if it’s no longer relevant to the purpose it was originally collected;
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to be able to access and correct data; to be informed if there is an issue (for example the loss of data); the right to restrict processing (for example not to receive direct marketing); and to have compensation if they have suffered damage due to an infringement of the GDPR. Legal perspective: be prepared for individuals to exercise their rights; only hold data on individuals that you really need to.
Consent to be on your databases After the introduction of the GDPR, where data is processed on the basis of consent, consent must be freely given, specific, informed and unambiguous. It requires a statement or clear affirmative action. Effectively, consent requires ‘opt-in’ rather than ‘optout’. If you have already obtained consent to certain types of processing from your employees or current customers, then this may not be an issue. But, this could prove to be a thorny issue for any brewer that has an active marketing campaign that relies on “opt-out” consent as a basis for processing, as both former customers and prospects, including any databases that you buy-in, must now ‘opt-in’ to receiving communication from you. Legal perspective: start changing your documentation on sales and marketing material now to opt in. Take appropriate advice on the wording. Instead of relying on consent to process personal data, review whether another basis for processing is appropriate.
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any trademarks or corporate branding. Also, she says, securing a trademark(s) helps protect a business’ name or product names from use by similar businesses. “Failure to register also leaves a business vulnerable
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guide and checklist to intellectual property valuations at www.ipo.gov.uk She adds: “Another consideration relating to ownership is when you have databases of customers because these, too, could add significant value to your business.
to actions, such as ‘Passing Off’, where a competing
Here, the key legal issue is the Data Protection Act, and
business takes advantage of the reputation of another’s
the GDPR (General Data Protection Rules) which come
goods or services. Or, trademark infringement, where
into effect next year. In short, every business that holds
a company uses a name which is the same or similar
personal data electronically for the provision of services
to a registered trade or service mark already owned by
to register with the Information Commissioners website.
another business,” says Agnew. “While there are legal
“Building up a business takes an enormous amount of
remedies for both scenarios, including court injunction
dedication and hard work, so it is a shame when business
and damages, the reality is that rectifying the issue can be
don’t realise their full value because they don’t fully own
costly and may also affect the reputation of your business
the copyright or IP to a brand that has become an integral
in the meantime.”
part of their success. So our advice is consider these
For more information there is a good government
Keeping the data safe - governance and accountability Businesses are responsible for how they collect, store and use personal data and must demonstrate that they are complying with the data processing principles. Larger companies must keep detailed records of their processing activities. You must give more information to individuals about how you will handle their data and must also carry out impact assessments when using new technology or high risk processing. Staff training is essential to ensure businesses comply with their governance and accountability obligations under GDPR. Legal perspective: pay special attention to sales and marketing department, HR and anyone that interviews staff and may receive CVs and the like – ensure that they are appropriately trained in the new requirements of GDPR.
issues and take advice if appropriate.” u
Data management You now need to document what personal data you hold, including the source of data, who has access to it, and where it has been shared. This could, for example, include marketing agencies employed to direct mail customers on your behalf. Legal perspective: carry out a data audit
Your employees and HR The same issues apply to your employees. Whilst most records, such as payroll will be centralised, a lot of other data is decentralised, and often unstructured such as recruitment records, recruitment consultant resumes, appraisals and disciplinary reviews. Legal perspective: look at the data held and possibly centralise it and consider deleting old records that are no longer required.
Data breaches and mismanagement
Conclusion
The new regulation is particularly stringent around loss of data, unauthorised disclosure or access to data. You should therefore review the way in which you handle data to ensure there is no possibility of data being mishandled, misused or lost. Any cases of breach of data where a breach is likely to “result in a risk for the rights and freedoms of individuals” must be reported to the Information Commissioner. Legal perspective: check where personal data is held and the risks e.g. make sure your sales staff don’t keep unencrypted databases on their laptops.
With data breaches set to become increasingly costly, both in terms of financial penalties and reputational damage, creating a culture of taking data protection compliance seriously could go a long way to minimising the risks of falling foul of the regulations. Our recommendation is to get ahead of the game now by carrying out an audit on the data you hold, and the way that data is stored and managed. Rectifying any issues now before the regulation comes into force could pay dividends down the line. By Dorothy Agnew, partner, Moore Blatch
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Standing the test of time If a 10-year-old brewery is considered today an industry veteran, what does this make a brewery celebrating its 175th anniversary this year? TBJ talks to Alex Arrkell, head brewer at Swindon-based Arkell and finds out how the family brewery has stood the test of time.
I
t truly is the dichotomy of the beer industry. New breweries are often thought of as exciting, daring and willing to take a risk with taste, while older breweries can be seen as flat and stale. But for older breweries to become just that – older – they
have proven their consistency year after year, decade after decade, and in the case of Arkell, it’s now close to century after century. “Beer is beer. What is important is that it is well made, with the best quality ingredients possible, and with the
by Tim Sheahan
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March 2018
care and attention it deserves,” explains Alex Arkell, head
Brewers Journal
brewer at Kingsdown, Upper Stratton-based Arkell’s
brewer in his mid-twenties and he continues to make his
Brewery. “We’re probably better known for our cask
mark.
beer but let’s be honest, historically some drinkers have
Since coming on board, Arkell has introduced four keg
been quite stubborn when it comes to keg. Especially if
beers, the most popular of which is its 1843 craft house
those beers are coming from a brewery they commonly
‘lager’. ThIs was first brewed to mark the year John Arkell
associate with cask.”
started brewing beer on the site in Swindon.
But for Arkell, trained at the Siebel Institute of
“This is a classic 'craft' lager brewed using pale malt
Technology, he just wants drinkers to enjoy good beer
with some wheat added for extra body and mouth feel
and be open the opportunities in front of them.
and traditional lager hops,” he explains. “It is gradually
“My beer knowledge is rooted in keg and I make no
fermented at a much lower temperature and matured
apologies for that. Cask continues to perform well for us,
for three weeks in tank at an even lower temperature to
accounting for around 70% of what we do, but I’m also
produce a pleasant, light, refreshing beer.”
very focused on increasing our keg output and the type of
More recently, the brewery launched the 4.2% Mustang
beers we offer through that,” he says. “I want to challenge
Black, a full-bodied stout, where the brewery blended six
people’s perceptions of what Arkell’s beer means to them
different malt varieties to create the grist for a moreish,
and for our offering to be as varied as possible. And that
smooth, creamy taste.
involves me deliberately pushing the growth of keg.” In a year the brewery celebrates its 175th year in
“Keg and cask go hand-in-hand. We’ve seen an impressive level of growth with beers such as the lager
business, Alex Arkell is enjoying his own personal
and the great thing is that we are attracting drinkers to
milestone. The 32-year old joined the company 10-years
our beers that may not have been ours in the first place.
ago in 2008, the same time Arkell’s welcomed its first
It’s not like we are suddenly converting people from long
Royal guest with the visit of HRH The Duke of Kent. Two
term cask drinkers to keg, but instead we’re migrating
years later, following the retirement of long-standing
drinkers from macro lagers to our lager. And that’s a good
head brewer Don Bracher, Arkell took up the role of head
thing,” explains Arkell.
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Members of the Arkell brewing family with head brewer Alex (top left), 2017
“
ar K E L L ' S
MEET
THE
B REWER
Arkell’s Brewery Beers
I want to challenge people’s perceptions of what Arkell’s beer means to them. Alex Arkell, Head Brewer
At its milestone of 175-years, Arkell’s Brewery is
Swindon’s oldest business and one of just 29 old family breweries left in the UK.
3B Originally known as Arkell’s Best Bitter Beer. First brewed in 1910 and affectionately known as BBB or 3B by customers ever since. A copper coloured Ale with a pleasant fruity and malty nose. It has a lingering bittersweet flavour of balanced Maris Otter malt and traditional Fuggles and Golding hops. Wiltshire Gold A light golden coloured Ale brewed using English Maris Otter malt, which creates a satisfyingly sweet malty flavour. The use of traditional hops give the beer a mellow floral hop aroma followed by a distinctive hoppy taste. Serve slightly chilled.
The brewery was established by John Arkell in 1843
as an offshoot to the family farm near Swindon. It was considered something of a natural step to turn to brewing beer, which at that time was commonly produced by many pubs and in many more private homes. But, it took the foresight of Arkell to realize the potential market for supplying beer to a string of other pubs as well as his own Kingsdown Inn, which he had just bought. “His timing was perfect,” says Alex Arkell.
Hurricane Ale So popular, they made it one of Arkell's house beers, now straight from the keg. Naturally, Arkell's Hurricane Ale (4% ABV) uses the lemony Pilot hops which, when combined with Maris Otter Malt, give the beer a delicious, well-rounded finish - like a Hurricane coming into land.
Isambard Kingdom Brunel had just chosen Swindon as the site of his works on the Great Western Railway and the once sleepy market town was already developing into a bustling – and thirsty – industrial centre. A major expansion into Swindon would come some years later as the town continued to grow, but to begin with he contented himself with leasing just one Swindon pub, the Carriers Arms, (later the Lord Raglan) in Old Town. So successful was John's makeshift brewery that he was inviting friends to dine inside his new 3,000-gallon barrel. In the subsequent years, Arkell's bought The Fox Inn in Highworth in 1862, The Golden Cross at Cirencester
1843 Arkell’s award-winnings craft house 'lager' was first brewed to mark the year John Arkell started brewing beer on the site here in Swindon and 2013 being our 170th anniversary. This is a classic 'craft' lager brewed using pale malt with some wheat added for extra body and mouth feel and traditional lager hops. It is gradually fermented at a much lower temperature and matured for three weeks in tank at an even lower temperature to produce a pleasant, light, refreshing beer. 4.2% ABV.
in 1864, The Tavern at Greatfield (later renamed The Butchers Arms) in 1866 and supplied The Harrow, Wanborough on a 10-year lease. Soon, John opened his second Swindon pub, The Artillery Arms in Regent Street, which survived until 1936 when it was demolished to make way for a new Woolworth's store. By 1867 the business had outgrown the new brewery and John was forced to convert the old Kingsdown Inn into offices and build a new pub across the road.
Mustang Black Its brand-new house keg beer for 2017 is a full-bodied stout, where they've blended six different malt varieties to create the grist for a moreish, smooth, creamy taste. Nurtured during a slow gentle maturation period, the balance of flavour from the selection of malts creates the perfect drinkable stout.
However, the expansion was still gathering pace and John was to buy up another 20 pubs in the next 10-years. Acquisitions reached a peak with the addition of three
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pubs in one year (1877) and a further seven by 1881. Now the majority of the expansion was aimed firmly at Swindon. John Arkell passed away in 1881 but the business went
have in the process. “It is something we are proud of. The process is steam and belt driven. Old hoists are used to carry sacks of malt up and that’s how we want to keep it. Yes it’s hard work,
from strength-to-strength and fast-forward to 2018 and
but we’ve been doing it like that for so long now. It would
the company is still family-owned with nearly 100 pubs
be a shame to change it,” he adds.
across Wiltshire, Gloucestershire, Oxfordshire, Berkshire and Hampshire under its stewardship. There are four members of the Arkell’s family currently at the helm: Chairman James Arkell; his cousin Nick Arkell, head of sales, and James’ sons George and Alex Arkell are managing director and head brewer respectively. Alex Arkell, who is part of a family unit at the brewery, has placed a particular emphasis on keg beers during his
And it’s hard to argue with Arkell. The brewery produces around 10,000hl annually, with its most recent figures 3% up year-on-year, with capacity in production to grow further, if required. Such steady growth is not something Arkell takes for granted though, and he is more than aware of the responsibility and privilege such as position holds. “There are an increasing number of breweries and
time as head brewer. But he is also aware of the benefit
a shrinking number of pubs and bars to sell your beers
and security the brewery’s pub estate has given its cask
to, so competition will only increase,” he says. “We are
output, too.
fortunate to have the pub estate but looking at the bigger
“There is no doubting that cask beer can prove to be a challenging model at times, for sure. The pub
picture, the industry needs to do more to ensure the future of good beer.”
estate justifies our brewery, and enables us to continue
Arkell adds: “The days of ‘Booze Britain’ are over, in
operating it in the fashion we do. And having a reliable
my opinion. People are drinking less so let’s encourage
output for our cask beer is reassuring,” he explains. “But
them to drink quality over quantity. We need to do more
I’m not naive to the bigger picture, either. People in the
to show beer isn’t this evil, nasty part of day-to-day life.
industry are pumping it out so cheap but at the same
Other parts of the alcohol industry are shouting louder
time, not reinvesting the tax benefits they claim back into
than us, and we need to change that. We need to fly the
the brewery. And that’s not the point. Relief is there for
flag.
bettering yourself, not for cost-cutting. Otherwise you’re looking at a race to the bottom.” The Arkell’s brewery is a traditional tower brewery.
“At Arkell’s, we are only caretakers, we are lucky to work here and we have a responsibility to ensure we keep the whole thing going. It’s not a short-term gain, as you
Ongoing investment, such as a new racking line, a
can probably tell!. We want family members to be looking
bottling line from Czech manufacturer Cheops, and new
back on this brewery in 100-years time, and planning for
20bbl tanks, has been carried out in the brewery but
the next 100, too. It’s a different attitude and to ensue that
Arkell is also a keen advocate of retaining as many of its
longevity, we need to do what’s best for this brewery and
key features such as the integral role steam and belts
do our best for the industry.” u
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Brewers Journal
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Q uality
C ontrol
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Focus on the finer details Fool me once, shame on you: fool me twice, shame on me. Putting out a bad beer once can be overlooked but doing it again can be considered unforgivable. The brewing industry of 2018 requires each and every outfit to be on the top of their game, and that starts with the team giving the beer they produce the attention it deserves. brewersjournal.info
T
he standard of something as measured against other things of a similar kind; the degree of excellence of something.' The Oxford dictionary definition of quality is particularly pertinent in the brewing industry of 2018. Saturation in the marketplace and increased competition are parts of the industry that are fiercely debated, nearly as frequently as the discussions on how we define a craft beer or what constitutes a craft brewery.
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It’s for good reason, too. The UK brewing landscape
aroma and taste to the branding, packaging and even to
continues to welcome more entrants but this is also
how efficiently and effectively you invoice, communicate
correlating with the regrettable decline of the pub
and liaise with clients.
numbers. Drinking habits are changing and people are
But if you ignore the quality aspect of the beer itself,
drinking less. Yes, you can argue that certain groups
then you’re on a hiding to nothing. This makes quality
are drinking less but spending more on a higher quality
control at your brewery so imperative and soon, the
product when they do. But it’ll require a hell of lot more
absence of lab at your brewery, and an effective sensory
bottle shops to open, along with bar and pub operators
program, will see you falling behind the pack.
buying better beer, to ensure every brewery can get a
“In the world of beer quality, the tangibles really boil
large enough piece of the pie to sustain their business.
down to one critical thing: consistency. While consistency
And as the market continues to mature, supply of
in itself can encompass a broad range of aspects
good beer is stronger than ever. With that, drinkers are
around the entire brewing process from raw materials,
more demanding. They are less forgiving, too. A social
mash schedules, equipment design, fermentation to
media post of a brewery pouring away beer that isn’t up
conditioning, every brewer wants to maintain consistency
to scratch is greeted with a shrug and a retort of ‘So what,
of flavor,” explains Neva Parker, vice president of
as you should’, when previously such an act of disposal
operations at White Labs. “It is this very attribute that
would have been applauded.
has brought us the concepts around quality control: to
Having a great brand and, at times, great beer is
control and maintain the quality and consistency of beer.
no longer enough. You need both in perfect harmony
Because quality control can be such a broad topic, I
and drinkers will come to expect that. Sure, such is the
have addressed three essential quality control measures
insatiable appetite for the ‘new’ that consumers can look
needed for every brewery below.”
past a limited release or a seasonal number that swings and misses. But do that twice or more? You’ve probably lost that consumer for life and what’s worse, brought
High quality basic instrumentation to monitor the brewing process This may seem like a no-brainer, but it all starts at the
down the collective ‘craft’ beer industry with it. Especially
beginning. Have you ever had a temperature probe work
if the consumer was dipping their toes into the world of
incorrectly because it wasn’t calibrated regularly? What
good beer for the first time.
about a broken hydrometer? Or pH meter? Although all
As Alex Troncoso, co-founder of Bristol’s Lost and
of these tools are quite simple, they are essential. Having
Grounded Brewers, explains elsewhere in this issue, the
one that is poor quality or does not work properly will end
idea of quality in beer encompasses everything from the
badly.
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Q uality
Building Your First Brewery laboratory So you want to set up a brewery laboratory? Because there are so many aspects to any brewery laboratory, the biggest uncertainty any brewery, big or small, may have is where to begin. The most important initial decisions you need to address are what the goal is for your laboratory, what kind of staffing you will need to operate the laboratory, and what your budget will be for installing the laboratory. Many breweries will start with basic quality control of their beer as a goal and expand to more analytical goals to maintain product consistency. Whether building your first laboratory or expanding the laboratory you already have, every brewery should plan for a few critical laboratory functions, including microbiological control, yeast management, fermentation tracking, and good record-keeping. For a new brewery not able to implement this entire program right off the bat, here are some ideas to get you started, with some basic recommended equipment. If this is your first laboratory, the best route to take is by starting with simple yeast management, which is essentially just using a microscope and some viability stain to view your yeast, perform cell counts for pitching rate calculations, and obtain viability data. Doing this routinely will help improve the consistency of your fermentations, but will require you to get a good microscope that is comfortable to use. There are many microscopes on the market, and for a simple procedure like this, you will not need anything that is too robust. The key elements you should look for in a microscope are binocular (rather than monocular, to make viewing easier on your eyes), a mechanical stage (so that you can move your viewing slide around), and at least 400x magnification capabilities. 400x is all you will need to view yeast, but if you plan on viewing bacteria in the future, you will want to start with a microscope that can magnify up to 1000x. A good quality 400x microscope is priced £200-£350, while a 1000x microscope will be a couple hundred pounds more.
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In addition, you will need a few other accessories for cell counting, such as a hemacytometer (the counting chamber slide) and your viability stain. You can find a hemacyometer as inexpensive as £12 online, but the counting grids on these are much more difficult to find or see, especially if you are not an expert at using all of the settings on a microscope. The best kind to purchase is what is called a brightline hemacyometer, which will make viewing extremely effective. To implement an effective microbiological laboratory, there are three essential pieces of equipment that you will need: a small scale (+/0.1gram sensitivity) to measure your dry media ingredients, a small autoclave or pressure cooker to sterilize media, and an incubator to incubate sample plates for microorganism growth. Both the scale and autoclave/pressure cooker are fairly easy to find and do not have specific requirements in this case, other than finding one that is properly sized for your needs. The incubator should also be sized for your needs, but should also have good temperature control being able to maintain temperatures up to 35°C, +/- 2°C. Fermentation analysis is another critical piece on any brewery quality control program. Much of this involves simple tracking and record-keeping of fermentation performance for core beers and being able to identify deviations to normal yeast behavior. Although this does not necessarily require specific equipment to properly track fermentation metrics, development of a consistent method of record-keeping is critical. Once you go down the rabbit hole of implementing your own brewery quality control program and building a brewery laboratory, the adventure never ends. The basics are a substantial way to open the path to bigger and better laboratorys, including more precise and technological equipment to perform more precise and technological analysis on your beer. In the end, any level of brewery QC is a step in what every brewer wants, and that is great quality, consistent beer. Neva Parker, VP of operations, White Labs
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company profiles Aber Instruments Aber Instruments Ltd considers customers to be equally important before and after a sale. We take pride in our customer service and aftersales support and differentiate ourselves by being completely customer-focused. We have put together a competent support team with diverse backgrounds to help cater your needs best. In addition, we have developed a plethora of support material that includes training videos, user manuals, excel sheet guides for data analysis, maintenance protocols, troubleshooting guides etc. that will help streamlining knowledge-transfer. Brewlab Brewlab's analysis services provide assurance and development for breweries seeking to manage consistency and evaluate prospects for future products. Quality assurance is provided by our routine analyses of standard brewing parameters – alcohol by volume, specific gravities, colour, pH and bitterness – each of which provides critical data on brewing performance. ABV is essential for regulatory declarations but other data allow for trend analysis and assessment of consistency. Our due diligence packages provide a structured system for regular feedback and early alerts for variations. Camlab Camlab, headquartered in Cambridge, United Kingdom, has been supplying water testing and laboratory equipment globally for over 65 years and has unrivalled experience. Our expertise in the supply of laboratory products, instrumentation and consumables for scientific applications is backed up by our highly qualified and experienced service team providing you with a unique level of support for your purchase for it's entire lifetime. Specialist activities include water analysis and process instruments, life science instrumentation,
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consumables and accessories, and an extensive range of laboratory equipment for pharmaceutical and industrial research. We aim to offer the highest levels of customer service and satisfaction in all we do. CDR BeerLab Are you the owner of a brewery? Are you a master brewer and are looking for an analyzer to perform beer quality control during all brewing phases? Are you a consultant for breweries? We have the most appropriate analysis system for your business. CDR BeerLab : the self-contained analyzer to perform chemical analyses on beer and water for in-house brewing process control. Thanks to CDR BeerLab, you no longer have to send beer or wort samples to dedicated external laboratories. Beer analysis methods are quick and easy to use. The results of the tests are available in real time so as to be able to promptly take key decisions during the brewing process. Cole Palmer Whether it’s online measurements in a brewery or ad hoc measuring during a brew at home, using a good dissolved oxygen meter can eliminate the guesswork in dissolved oxygen control during fermentation. Cole-Parmer offers a wide range of high-accuracy dissolved oxygen meters and fast-responding electrodes that allow brewers to track both dissolved oxygen levels (in ppm, mg/L, or %) and temperature at the same time. Döhler For more than 30 years, Döhler has been offering culture media for the fast and reliable detection of beverage spoiling microorganisms. Further innovative, ready-to-use culture media are constantly being added to this product range. With the Brewers QCheck Kit, Döhler offers a full solution for the direct detection of beverage spoiling microorganisms in all samples arising in breweries. The Brewers QCheck Kit makes it possible to carry out microbiological control
Brewers Journal
Q uality
on all samples in the brewing process – simply, quickly and comprehensively. Different raw materials used in the brewing process, such as water and yeast, can be analysed for microbiological contamination before fermentation. Hach As a brewer, quality, flavour stability and shelf life are critical to brand and business. For continuous and reliable measurement of quality parameters directly in the production process, at line or in the lab, from incoming water through to final package. LaMotte Craft brewing has experienced a renaissance over the last 20 years as old beer styles have been rediscovered and new styles created. Beer and brewing are just like food and cooking—to make a great dish you need to understand your ingredients and seasonings, and brewing a great beer is the same. Beer is 90% water and the quality and mineral content of the water can have a large effect on the beer's flavour. LaMotte now offers a full line of products for the home and the professional brewer and winemaker. Since 1919 we have been helping to solve analytical challenges by providing innovative solutions through knowledgeable technical guidance, prompt service, and quality products. Murphy & Son As consulting brewers and manufacturing chemists here at Murphy & Son, we provide brewers of all shapes and sizes with all the processing aids and ingredients required for beer. This includes liquor treatments, proteolytic and mash enzymes, isinglass, auxiliary and copper finings, hops, malts, nutrients, preservatives, stabilisers, cleaning materials and dry and wet yeasts. We have a fully equipped laboratory here at our head office in Nottingham, where we carry out a variety of tests, analyses and other lab services.
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ThermoFisher Scientific Beer is the most widely consumed alcoholic beverage in the world. Beer is typically brewed from three basic ingredients: water, a starch source brewer’s yeast, and a flavouring agent such as hops. Many varieties of beer result from differences in these ingredients, the additives used, and the brewing process. VLB Berlin Our 100 % subsidiary VLB LaboTech GmbH offers experience and assistance in all questions concerning laboratory equipment. Our delivery program encloses new and approved laboratory devices and special products for quality assurance in the brewing, malting, beverage and spirits industries. We also offer consumables in the area of chemical and technical analyses and microbiology. Together with reliable partners we also offer total laboratory solutions for the brewing and beverage industry. Since we are independent from individual suppliers VLB-LaboTech guarantees objective consulting which leads to an optimal solution. White Labs What began as home brewers searching for higher quality yeast, quickly grew into a team of dedicated biochemists exploring new ways to advance brewing altogether. Today, White Labs stands at the intersection of science, education and craft. Constantly striving for perfection, and in the process continually raising the bar in the art of fermentation. Every day, we set out on a single mission: To stretch the limits of science in order to set new standards in purity and freshness. From the industry’s first pitchable liquid yeast, to a complete revolution in the way it’s propagated and packaged, our innovative spirit is tireless. And our belief that creating the most environmentally friendly products goes hand-in-hand with making the best use of them has inspired a culture of education and collaboration with brewers, distillers and winemakers the world over.
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Of these, looking at wort and beer gravity are critical and using instrumentation that is accurate is absolute. Most brewers use simple hydrometers, because they are
glassware, a dedicated room to perform the sensory, and a well-trained team to evaluate your samples. There are several software programs and even phone
fast and easy. I would recommend taking it a step further
apps now, that help you track and trend your sensory
and opting for a handheld digital density meter. These
results. These are amazing tools that will enable you to
are far more accurate, and can correct for temperature
visually analyze any flavor or aroma deviations. One that
and alcohol present in the sample. Density meters take
we use regularly is Gastrograph, and it’s free!
a little more work to maintain, but they will provide you
With anything that is done in the brewery, you can
with more precision when it comes to monitoring gravity
have the highest end equipment but never achieve good
during fermentation. These days, nearly every brewery
results without proper methods. Standard methods are
lab is also using spectrophotometry to analyze various
the backbone of quality control and luckily for us, there
steps in the process. Most spectrophotometers are
are standards out there. The most widely used industry
quite inexpensive and can allow a brewer to perform
methods come from the American Society of Brewing
basic analysis such as wort color and bitterness units to
Chemists (www.asbcnet.org) and the European Brewing
more complex analysis like free amino nitrogen. When
Convention (www.analytica-ebc.com), both of which can
shopping for a spectrophotometer, you will likely find
be accessed online. These are both great resources in
the most use from a benchtop UV/Vis as it combines
instrument usage and standard methods. ASBC also
flexibility of performing a wide variety of methods with
offers a check sample program, which allows breweries
affordability (it does not have all of the bells and whistles,
to perform analysis of varying methods using sample kits
but those are not needed in most cases).
sent to multiple breweries performing the same analysis
You also want to look for one that gives you reliable
to verify the consistency of the procedure as well as
and repeatable data. Some older or cheaper instruments
technical proficiency by the individual brewery. This is a
will cause your readings to “jump around�, resulting in
valuable opportunity for any brewery to evaluate their
results you cannot trust. There are also new models
interpretation and performance of the standard method.
that come with integrated software, which I would only consider if you plan to use the spec on an everyday basis. A good sensory program does not necessarily rely on
Quality is an immense topic that could fill the pages of a book, and others have. Beer quality itself is sometimes intangible, that je ne sais qoi, which makes beer so
specific equipment, but it is very important to evaluate
complex and interesting. But in this universe, there are
your beer in order to identify any quality issues prior to
some things we can and should control and as brewers,
releasing. Here, the focus should be on good and clean
that is exactly what should be done. u
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Brewers Journal
IBU, ABV, EBC & pH In One Analyser
BeerLab
l Quick and easy to use l No calibration needed l Other tests available
for liquor, wort & beer
01342 820820
www.qclscientific.com/beerlab
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NASHVILLE to host cbc The 35th edition of the Craft Brewers Conference & BrewExpo America comes to Nashville, Tennessee from April 30 – May 3. Here is the full lowdown on the event along with some of the key names to look out for during you visit.
N
ashville, Tennessee is home to some 684,000 people. That figure will swell by some 13,000 come April when the Craft Brewers Conference & BrewExpo America comes to town, and the event,
once again, looks like one not to be missed. “As small and independent craft brewers face unique
opportunities and challenges in the marketplace, CBC allows them to connect with their colleagues and comrades to share ideas and learn about relevant topics ranging from brewery operations to sustainability and government affairs,” explains the Brewers Association, which presents the event. More than 13,000 brewing industry professionals are expected to attend, presented with the opportunity to meet with 700 exhibitors and hear from a wide range of speakers during 70 seminars across 12 different educational tracks.
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craft
This year’s educational seminars cover: Brewery Operations, Brewpub Marketing and Management, Export
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leaders in the national and international brewing arena. "The trade show sets the stage for exhibitors and
Development, Government Affairs, Leadership (new in
buyers to develop profitable business relationships and
2018), Packaging Brewery Marketing and Management,
helps brewing and brewery restaurant professionals
Quality, Safety, Selling Craft Beer, Start-ups, Sustainability
encounter the latest and best products and services
and Technical Brewing.
that industry vendors have to offer,” explains the Brewers
Featured speakers include industry keynote address
Association. u
speaker Deb Carey, founder and president of New Glarus Brewery, Paul Saginaw, co-owner and founding partner of Zingermans, Brewers Association Director Paul Gatza and Chief Economist Bart Watson, who will deliver the annual State of the Industry Address.
Essential Info
CBC 2018 also serves as home to the World Beer Cup, often referred to as “the Olympics of Beer.” It was
When
developed in 1996 to celebrate the art and science of brewing, this global competition continues to create greater consumer awareness about different beer styles and flavour profiles while promoting international brewing excellence.
Craft Brewers Conference Monday, April 30 – Thursday, May 3, 2018 Times vary. For a full schedule of events, visit the CBC conference schedule.
In 2016, 6,596 beers entered from 1,907 breweries representing 55 countries were entered in the World Beer
Events of note
Cup and were judged by an elite international panel of 253 judges from 31 countries. This year, the organisers, expect it to be even more competitive, as craft brewing continues to attract an even broader universe around the globe.
Tuesday, May 1 9:15 a.m. – 10:30 a.m. | General Session/ Keynote 1:30 p.m. – 3:40 p.m. | Seminars
Running alongside CBC is BrewExpo America, which is the trade show for craft brewers, providing the opportunity to connect with customers, vendors and
Wednesday, May 2 9:15 a.m. – 10:30 a.m. | General SessionState of the Industry/Keynote 1:30 p.m. – 3:40 p.m. | Seminars Thursday, May 3 9:45 a.m. – 11:00 a.m. | Members Meeting 11:30 a.m. – 3:20 p.m. | Seminars
BrewExpo America Tuesday, May 1: 9:00 a.m. – 5:00 p.m. Wednesday, May 2: 9:00 a.m. – 5:00 p.m. Thursday, May 3: 9:00 a.m. – 3:00 p.m.
Where Music City Center 201 Fifth Avenue South Nashville, TN 27203
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Exhibitors to watch Bairds Malt
BrauKon
F
W
entrusted to work alongside. Following our founding
flexible, economically efficient and profitable without
principles, we have 5 malting locations situated in prime
compromising on beer quality. The process of your entire
barley growing regions of the UK and source the majority
project, from planning to realization, lies with only one
of our barley from a nucleus of the finest growers within a
partner –us. BrauKon turnkey breweries are tailored to
50 mile radius of each of our sites. We are grateful to have
meet your individual requirements. From brewers for
shared our decades of malting craft with the custodians
brewers.What drives us most is our pride when your
of those fields, some of whom are farming families that
passion and our brewery systems come together and
have been growing quality malting barley to supply Bairds
create some thing that is one of a kind.
rom the humble beginnings of the Bairds brothers enterprise back in 1823, the passion and quality in our craft continues to be found today in the
character of our employees and those who we are
e deliver turnkey brewery systems specially to craft breweries worldwide. More than 25 master brewers and engineers plan, design
and build top-quality brewery systems that are highly
across multiple generations.
Charles Faram
Barth-Haas
C
harles Faram has been established as merchants
W
e at the Barth-Haas Group understand that our customers’ success is vital to our own success. Therefore, everything we do is
of hops and hop products for over 150 years. The company, which was originally based in
Worcester, now resides in the small hamlet of Newland
focused on our customers’ needs. By cultivating close
situated at the foot of the picturesque Malvern Hills.
partnerships with our customers, we can offer them the
Charles Faram stocks and sells the largest range of hops
best service, for it is our endeavour to be the supplier
in the UK. With over 100 different varieties of hops to
with the greatest added value. Accordingly, our goal is
choose from, it provides an artist’s palette of flavours to
to extract the maximum potential from the hop as a raw
create every type and style of beer.
material in order to ensure the best possible use and
Cicerone
presentation of the hop components.
BDAS LLC
I
n the wine world, the word "sommelier" designates those with proven expertise in selecting, acquiring
B
DAS, LLC is the premier alcohol product testing laboratory, located in Lexington KY, now proudly serving well over 1000 breweries, distilleries and
and serving fine wine. At one time, some beer
servers adopted the title "beer sommelier" to tie into the credibility of the wine world. But in the years since
wineries.Testing alcoholic beverages and beverage raw
its founding, the Cicerone® Certification Program has
materials (hops, malts, water and more). We also consult
become the industry standard for identifying those with
and provide support to National, International, Regional
significant knowledge and professional skills in beer sales
and Local Craft Brewers, Craft Distillers and other craft
and service. The Cicerone Certification Program offers
product businesses (testing chocolates, ice-creams,
independent assessment and certification so that industry
liquors, cakes and other products made with alcohol as
professionals—as well as consumers—can be sure of the
an ingredient).
knowledge and skills possessed by beer servers.
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CMC-Kuhnke
C
MC-Kuhnke is a progressive company, striving to remain the leading provider of quality double seam inspection equipment. Through customer-
s h ow
KHS
T
hanks to our more than 140 years' experience in the development of filling and packaging systems, we have the expertise to create innovative and
driven improvements, CMC-Kuhnke continues to
sustainable solutions for the future. In particular in the
provide state-of-the-art gauges and software, packaged
area of developing PET containers and perfectly matched
specifically for the craft beverage industry. CMC-Kuhnke
filling lines, KHS is one of the world's leading suppliers.
has worked with the craft market since the beginning
Learn more about our company, our production sites, and
of the can revolution. Based on feedback from our 100+
the people who give their best every day at KHS: their
craft beverage customers we continue to tailor our seam
experience, expertise, commitment and dedication for
package to meet the needs of the industry.
ever-better and more sustainable packaging systems.
Fermentis
F
ermentis is an agile and expanding company, dedicated to fermented beverages industries. It is a business unit of Lesaffre Group, global key player in
Moravek
M
oravek are a Czech based manufacturer and supplier of process equipment, complete integrated process systems, bottling machinery
yeast and all its applications for over 160 years. Our roots
and Keg Systems to the brewing and beverage industries.
are strong while having an audacious spirit. As things
We produce a wide range of machinery suitable for
happen during the fermentation… our goal is to discover
all production and bottling requirements from large
them all for you in terms of taste, flavour and pleasure.
scale production to research and development. All our machines are constructed to the highest standard and
FlavorActiv
only use the best quality components. Our range of products are designed to require minimal operator control and processes are fully automatic wherever possible
W
e started in beer, but today we cover all
saving your company both time and money during the
the main beverage groups and are now
production process.
expanding into food. Our international
Murphy & Son
team has grown from two, to more than 20, most of which are full time staff. They include brew masters, professors, doctorates, sommeliers, MWs, statisticians, psychologists… a range of people and backgrounds, all bringing new ideas and perspectives to the table.
Gernep
W
e at Murphy & Son Ltd. are excited to announce the launch of our sister company and American counterpart; Murphy & Son
Incorporated. Plus, you will be able to find Murphy & Son Inc. at booth 2039 at this year’s Craft Brewers Conference,
I
beside Crisp Malting Group Ltd. and opposite Brewers
f you are looking for traditional front, back and neck
Supply Group (2032)! Our showing will focus on a
labels or body wrap-around labelling for your beer
core range of products which cover wort clarification,
bottles and you are not sure about using cold glue,
beer fining, cleaning enzymes, antifoam and flavour
hot-melt or pressure sensitive labels Gernep flexible
modification. We will be on hand to chat, debate and
rotary labelling machines give the right answers. Which
troubleshoot throughout the event, informed by our
labelling machine can handle everything in an efficient
extensive brewing expertise and grounded in over 130
and economic way – even when you change formats of
years as part of the British industry.
bottles and labels several times? Gernep is a specialist
Newlands
in labelling technology with more than 30 years of experience in designing, manufacturing and servicing of rotary labelling machines we can support your decision to select the right labelling process considering your individual situation!
N
ewlands boasts a long history with every brewing system and has the brewing experience, engineering and technical background, and
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skilled craftsmanship to build your custom stainless steel
varieties within its flagship HopInspiration® Range
brewery. From brewery design, to custom fabrication, to
offer hopping solutions to craft and national brewers to
onsite installation and training; Newlands will be there
meet their individual development needs. Whether its
with you step-by-step, throughout the entire process.
HopBurst® for dry hop aroma, HopShot® for addition of late hop flavours, HopSensation® for multi hop
Petainer
complexity, or HopPlus® for all your speciality beer naturals (such as coffee, vanilla, lime, fruits), there is a product to complement your beer styles.
P
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58
March 2018
Brewers Journal
S p otli g ht
yeast
Craft Beer’s Next Top Yeast Strains There has never been a more exciting period of time for craft beer innovation, and a major component of this is the development and discovery of yeast strains by scientists and yeast suppliers. It’s hard to say what craft beer’s next top yeast strain will be but, according to Richard Preiss, co-founder of Escarpment Laboratories, it’s certain to be already sitting in a test tube or a farmer’s kitchen.
fermentation profiles of their yeast strains. Yeast suppliers have used yeast’s natural ability to mate to generate hybrid yeasts, for example to combine a reliable Saison strain with a less reliable but more flavourful one, or to eliminate hydrogen sulfide (eggy) flavour from lager yeasts. Lager yeast, specifically, is ripe for innovation: more than 90% of the world’s beer production is light lager, and the potential to create new lager flavours through breeding is immense now that the non-ale yeast parent of the hybrid lager yeast was discovered on a beech fungus in Patagonia (it’s also been found on trees in North America and China). Scientists are now armed with the breeding stock necessary to create brand new lager
by Richard Preiss
hybrids. One of these scientists is Kristoffer Krogerus at VTT in Finland, who has devoted his PhD to creating
M
lager yeasts with unique flavour profiles and enhanced
Indeed, craft beer is increasingly becoming defined by
the enhanced banana flavour of Torulaspora in a German
the necessity of novelty. It is now extremely common to
wheat beer. Many yeast labs and breweries are also
find a brand new beer (or three) at many craft breweries
tinerking with wild yeasts, perhaps isolated from a perfect
every single weekend, and consumers now expect to be
autumn apple, or from a verdant forest.
odern craft beer is faced with a persistent dilemma: the need for
fermentation properties. Other brewers and scientists are turning to yeasts
innovation in flavour, process, and
outside of the Saccharomyces (“normal yeast”) family,
ingredient selection. This is driven
and employing these alternative yeasts to target flavour
by competition within the craft beer
combinations previously unknown to brewing, like the
sector and also by consumer demand for novel beers.
heavy pineapple of a pure Brettanomyces ferment, or
delighted by an unending wave of new beers. This presents a significant challenge for craft
A final option is yeast which was under our noses the whole time: brewing yeasts used in regions with active
breweries: how do they deliver consistently on new
brewing traditions outside of industrial brewing. Such
beers and novel flavours while keeping quality high? One
“farmhouse brewing” cultures still exist in a surprising
solution is to explore the vast landscape of alternative
range of places: the Fjords of Norway, rugged Lithuania,
yeast strains now on the market, in addition to the ever-
a flight and several bus rides deep into Russia, or inside
expanding selection of specialty malts, patented hops,
a Bhutanese farmhouse. Intrepid beer ethnologists such
fruit purées, spices, and so on.
as Lars Marius Garshol from Norway and Canada’s own
Careful selection of yeasts is a way for a brewery to
Martin Thibault are discovering and writing about these
make their fruity New England IPA different from the
traditional beer cultures, many of which still have their
brewery next door, or to create cherry pie flavours to
original yeast cultures.
complement an oak aged dark ale. Yeast labs employ different strategies to address the
At the centre of the rediscovery of traditional brewing cultures and yeasts is the farmhouse brewing Mecca,
demand for new flavours in beer. Some have turned
the Norsk Kornolfestival in Hornindal, Norway. It is a
to yeast cross breeding in order to dial in flavour and
festival established initially to celebrate the farmhouse
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March 2018
Brewers Journal
yeast
brewing traditions of Norway, but growing to attract interest from far-flung brewers, whether they are
S p otli g ht
for fermentation. We think that traditional and underexplored yeasts
traditional, homebrewers, or brewing professionals.
like Norwegian kveik and others are a big part of the
The Kornolfestival is organized by Lars Marius Garshol,
future of brewing. Since traditional, domesticated yeasts
as well as by fjord local William Holden and others. At
exist in Russia and Lithuania, and who knows where
the Kornolfestival, we witnessed techniques as diverse
else, we have started referring to these as ‘landrace
as Lithuanian stone brewing, malt kilning and smoking
yeasts’. A landrace is defined as a domesticated, locally
using alder wood for a powerfully smoky Norwegian beer
adapted, traditional variety of a crop, and we think this
called ‘Stjørdalsøl’, and the local style of (tart, tropical,
term applies to traditional brewing yeasts and helps avoid
woody) ‘raw ale’ brewing where the beer is not boiled at
confusion with the ‘farmhouse yeasts’ typically associated
all, but instead lautered through hops and then chilled. In
with Belgian brewing. Already, brewers are exploring
fact, the only commonality among the diversity of beers
landrace yeasts: several yeast labs have commercialized
presented at the festival is the ever-present use of juniper
Norwegian kveik, and the Lithuanian ‘Simonaitis’ yeast is
branch infusion in the brewing water.
making the rounds among hardcore homebrewers.
Central also to the Kornolfestival is the exchange
Meanwhile, back at the lab, we have been exploring
of kveik: the traditional yeasts of western Norway,
the use of kveik yeasts in beer: samples have been tested
maintained for what is reported to be hundreds of years
by local homebrewers and extensive amounts of data
through drying and reuse. At Escarpment Laboratories,
collection have taken place at the University of Guelph.
we have been working closely with the Norwegians to
We have scaled this up to collaborations with breweries,
isolate and test kveik yeasts. We have found that these
including Guelph’s Royal City Brewing (Pining for the
yeasts are genetically distinct from other brewing strains,
Fjords), Toronto’s Indie Alehouse (Loki’s Garden) and Folly
and have many intriguing brewing-related properties:
Brewpub (Fjord Fiesta). Consumers are intrigued by the
they do not produce phenolic flavours, they can ferment
unique flavour profiles and story of these yeasts, and that
wort rapidly, they produce fruity esters, and they are
is driving interest from other breweries. There is even a
very alcohol tolerant. Overall this points to kveik being
distillery in Ontario making use of the citrusy flavour, fast
as domesticated as a modern California Ale strain, and
fermentation and high alcohol tolerance of a Kveik yeast
that’s an extremely important point: craft brewers expect
for their whiskey fermentation.
new yeasts to perform like the standard workhorses do,
Overall, there has never been a more exciting period
and so kveik present an opportunity for new and exciting
of time for craft beer innovation, and a major component
yeasts which aren’t an extreme challenge to manage.
of this is the development and discovery of yeast strains
Additionally, they can perform at a remarkably wide
by scientists and yeast suppliers. It’s hard to say what craft
temperature range (20-40ºC), certainly an attractive
beer’s next top yeast strain will be, but I guarantee you
feature for homebrewers and for brewers in regions with
that it is already sitting in a test tube or a farmer’s kitchen
hot summers typically requiring excessive glycol cooling
as you read this sentence. u
brewersjournal.info
March 2018
61
s c i e n c e
de x trins
Dealing with Dextrins A beer’s body will be somewhere in the range from watery, through light, solid, grainy and creamy to thick and cloying. Crafting this characteristic can be a challenge and may vary for a number of reasons, not all of which are easy to control such as inconsistency of ingredients, explains Dr Keith Thomas Hunt, director at Brewlab.
to thick and cloying. Crafting this characteristic can be a challenge and may vary for a number of reasons, not all of which are easy to control such as inconsistency of ingredients. Beers with few of the components listed above will have a watery body - limited thickness on the tongue, limited retention in the mouth and low viscosity. Such beers have a refreshing character. They are often of low original gravity generally hoppy and bright, typically lager-like and highly carbonated. Thicker beers differ considerably. These linger longer in the mouth producing a creamy smoothness and solid
by Dr Keith Thomas, Brewlab
mouthfeel. They have a high viscosity, are often stronger and with a high finishing gravity. They are also the more
B
eer is often said to have body but what
challenging beers to brew and control. The body of a beer results particularly from the
makes a beer watery? An obvious answer
presence of proteins and large, unfermentable sugars
is simple H2O. A feature which beer has in
called dextrins released during mashing. Alcohol may
abundance. Generally over 90% of your pint
also contribute. These components produce a viscous
is water with the remainder a mixture of
solution which contributes to the elevated gravity of a
protein, carbohydrate, salts and flavourings including, of
fermented beer. Without them beer would be as dry and
course, ethanol.
as low in gravity as wine.
Perhaps a better question is what features give beer
A simple viscosity effect may be enough to account
body? And - which features can you control to achieve a
for much of the body of a beer. Dextrin levels contribute
specific body to your beer?
significantly to this and their level may be adjusted by
The answer to this is less obvious as all manner of things may contribute to the impression of body: protein,
controlling the temperature of your mash. Low temperatures (below 65oC) and low pH levels
unfermented sugars, hops, alcohol, polysaccharides and,
(pH 5.2) are more conducive to a full starch digestion.
perhaps, tannins. Even colour seems to influence the
Higher temperatures, over 65oC, are more likely to leave
perception of body with dark beers often judged stronger
significant levels of incompletely digested starch. These
and thicker.
dextrin molecules pass through the boil with little further
Body is the characteristic feature resulting from the components listed above and is an additional target on
change. They are too large to be fermented and so become a major component of the final beer.
your recipe listing. A beer’s body will be somewhere in the
Body does not necessarily correlate with bitterness or
range from watery, through light, solid, grainy and creamy
with astringency. Such features contribute independently
62
March 2018
Brewers Journal
de x trins
to mouthfeel and may balance the smoothness of a thick beer. They also persist in the aftertaste after the beer drains down the throat so creating aftertaste. Mouthfeel is certainly not just the body of a beer but a much more variable feature. Thickness contributes strongly to mouthfeel but so can dryness, astringency, metallic character and the tingle of carbonation. Body and thickness are, however, major features of mouthfeel which has been defined as “those textural attributes responsible for producing tactile sensations”. Additional factors may occur in some conditions. High gravity fermentations, for example, produce glycerol which has a significant impact on mouthfeel. Adding sulphite salts, or having high sulphite levels during fermentation will also enhance the level of glycerol. Wine is typically smoothened by glycerol which may give high alcohol beers a vinous character. Proteins and tannins from malt are a further contributor to mouthfeel. Your choice of malt, particularly the extent of its modification, may even be a factor and cause
s c i e n c e
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variability if you change sources regularly. Low tannin malt is sometimes used to limit the level of tannins and so create a less aggressive beer. Finally the degree of sweetness is particularly relevant. Although dextrins aren’t particularly sweet some residual fermentable sugars will be and will provide a changing impression as they ferment in cask. Moreover, other components such as hop bitterness and tannins will act to balance sweetness and neutralise its effect. With all these factors in the running is there a way to anticipate the effect of mouthfeel in your beer? Mashing at a range of temperatures is an unlikely experiment on a commercial level. Adding purified dextrins has been attempted but requires very high levels to really thicken a beer, almost as much as you would need to convert it to gravy. A viscometer may be a useful tool to provide an objective measure of your beer’s thickness but requires
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Yet another feature to include on your growing list of beer analyses. u
brewersjournal.info
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March 2018
07.02.2018 21:02:27
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Brewers Journal
S tu
One for the road...
M c K inlay
On e
fo r
th e
roa d
me to brew our annual WxY collaboration with Wylam. Sadly I was meant to give some beer to Sean Ayling of Pig & Porter, yesterday, but I drove away from the brewery without having handed it over (sorry, Sean!) What beer would you use to introduce to someone that has never tried one? Wow! What an opportunity. Without knowing anything about the person, then I think something like Tripel Karmeliet is a great place to start. Nobody beats the Belgians in regards to the theater of beer and I think something along these lines is a perfect start. A lovely glass, the painted cork and wire bottle, that giant ballooning head and the delicate perfumed nuance of the aroma. And plenty of alcohol to open their palate and
Stu McKinlay is the co-founder of Yeastie Boys. Founded in New Zealand, the business continues to make successful inroads in the UK market, something that will no-doubt only increase in 2018 and beyond. McKinlay, the self-confessed ‘benevolent dictator’ of the business. has lofty goals for the brewing outfit. With a new brewing partner in the shape of West Berkshire Brewery and a soonto-be new head brewer in the form of James Kemp, you’d be a fool to bet against them.
mind for the next beer in the journey... Is it better to be perfect and late, or good but on time? We're not in a hurry, but I also never quite think things are perfect, but I'd definitely lean towards perfection. What will be big in beer in 2018? Yeastie Boys! *laughs* u
What has been your biggest career achievement? Tossing the rule book aside and doing things our own way. Most of the cliches of business are a load of bollocks. What was the last beer you drank? Three pints of Harvey's Old Ale, which is one of my constants in winter (almost always from The Bricklayers Arms - a fantastic Harvey's pub in Chipstead, Kent). What advice do you have for your previous boss? If you want to make any kind of difference then trust your gut and stake your career on it. What was the last present you gave someone? The latest issue of Match magazine, for my middle son, to read on the train to Newcastle when he accompanied
brewersjournal.info
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March 2018
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2018 sees Sheffield Beer Week celebrate its fourth year as a city-wide beer festival and umbrella beer-focused event
09/03/18
Brewers Lectures Dublin The Convention Centre, Dublin lectures.brewersjournal.info 12/03/18 - 18/03/18
Sheffield Beer Week Various venues, Leeds www.sheffieldbeerweek.co.uk 14/03/18 - 16/03/18
London Drinker Beer & Cider Festival Camden Centre, London www.northlondon.camra.org.uk
66
March 2018
16/03/18 - 18/03/18
Winchester Beer and Cider Festival Winchester Beer and Cider Festival www.winchesterbeerfestival.org.uk 29/03/18 - 31/03/18
Hop City 2018 The Northern Monk Refectory, Leeds www.northernmonkbrewco.com 29/03/18 - 01/03/18
Egham Real Ale and Cider Festival Egham, Surrey www.eghambeerfestival.co.uk
Brewers Journal
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