The Brewers Journal March 2020, iss 2 vol 6

The magazine for the professional brewing industry

Brewers J o u r n a l

March 2020 | Volume 6, issue 2 ISSN 2059-6669

PARTIZAN BREWING

INNOVATION AND INVENTION IN bermondsey

26 | BREWERS lectures norwich: the lowdown

42 | wales: THE brewers making their mark

63 | beer styles: evolution and transformation

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le ad e r

new beginnings

H

ello and welcome to the latest edition of The Brewers Journal. Ignoring the fact that it's March (already?!) I hope the start of 2020 has been positive for you.

This intro is being written in the company of an excellent pint of Amber ale. It's a shame that an increasing number of breweries, in my experience, have turned their back on this style of beer. I can only assume it doesn't perform on a commercial basis.

Who knows, maybe it needs a brand revamp. Though, to me, an Amber Ale is an attracting-sounding beverage in itself.

One brewery that has refused to be defined by trending styles is London's Partizan Brewing, the cover stars of this issue. As head brewer Dennis Ratliff told us: "sales drives brewing" so it's a testament to the quality of their beers that the diverse nature of the Bermondsey business's output has resonated on both a quality and commercial level.

Turn to p32 to read our full interview with the team.

Elsewhere in this edition, my colleague Velo Mitrovich visits Nethergate Brewery and unpacks the company's rich, and layered, history.

We also have Dr Keith Thomas of Sunderland's Brewlab looking at the evolution of beer styles while Julie Carling of The Carling Partnership shares her expertise in the field of recruiting.

On the events front, I'm proud to share the line-up of incredible brewing talent that will join us in Norwich on the 18th March for the Brewers Lectures. Miranda Hudson of Duration Brewing, Charles O' Reilly from Burnt Mill and Jolly Good Beer's Yvan Seth will deliver talks. They'll be joined by North Brewing's Christian Townsley, Lotte Peplow of the Brewers Association and Simpson Malt's Jamie Ramshaw.

A stellar line-up, I think you'll agree.

We're also thrilled to announce that this year's iteration of The Brewers Congress will return with a more expansive and feature-packed programme than ever before.

brewersjournal.info

editor's choice Velo Mitrovich tells the story of Suffolk's Nethergate Brewery - page 52

Following three sold-out years at The Institution of Civil Engineers, this December The Brewers Congress moves to a new home at The Brewery in the City of London.

Taking place on the 8th and 9th December, The Brewers Congress 2020 kicks off with an industry wide Christmas Party and Brewers Choice Awards celebrations.

Following a hugely popular launch last year, The Brewers Choice Awards are back in 2020. We’re broadening the field this year but the aim remains the same and that’s to showcase the finest in UK brewing and to put the best of the best in the spotlight.

The Brewers Choice Awards are split into seven categories: Brewery Of The Year, New Brewery of The Year, Young Brewer of The Year, Beer of the Year, New Beer of The Year, Best Branding and Lifetime Achievement Award Stay tuned for full details on how to enter. u Tim Sheahan Editor

March 2020

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c o nta c t s

contacts Tim Sheahan Editor tim@rebymedia.com +44 (0)1442 780 592 Velo Mitrovich Deputy Editor velo@rebymedia.com +44 (0)1442 780 591 Josh Henderson Head of sales josh@rebymedia.com +44 (0)1442 780 594

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March 2020

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c o nt e nt s

contents 42

32

52

38

58

Cover story 32 - Partizan Brewing is one of the original members of Bermondsey's beer scene and head brewer Dennis Ratliff is driving the brewery through its latest evolution

comment 21 - The QC components essential to producing good beer consistently

Dear John 24 - John Keeling talks all things travel and his desire for more session-strength beers

brewers lectures | norwich 26 - The full lowdown on the Brewers Lectures Norwich taking place on March 18th

trending | recruitment 29 - Julie Carling of the Carling Partnership shares her expertise on brewery recruitment

Brewery tour | wales 42 - The Welsh brewing wonders that are driving the country's industry forward

focus | microbiology 48 - How a greater understanding of microbiology can aid higher hygiene standards

brewery tour | nethergate 52 - Velo Mitrovich tells the tale of Nethergate's long storied history

Crossing continents | Philadelphia, USA 58 - Yard Brewing Company's expansion project in conjuction with Ziemann Holvrieka

Sector | water 38 - Advice on cost-effective brewery effluent treatment and sustainable water usage

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SCIENCE | BEER STYLES 63 - Brewlab on the evolution of beer styles

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Brewers Congress: Bigger, Better and at the Brewery

T

he Brewers Congress returns for its fourth year in

are increasing the number of exhibitor spots to 40. We

2020 and with it, a more expansive and feature-

are creating four beer tasting spots, all trialling different

packed programme than ever before.

Following three sold-out years at The Institution of Civil

beers, to keep attendees moving around the hall. And for the first time we are live streaming the lectures into the

Engineers, this December The Brewers Congress moves

exhibition space so attendees can spend more time in the

to a new home at The Brewery in the City of London.

trade hall without missing out on the talks.

Taking place on the 8th and 9th December, The

The Brewers Congress 2020 takes place at The

Brewers Congress 2020 kicks off with an industry wide

Brewery, a best-in-class venue that occupies the site of

Christmas Party and Brewers Choice Awards celebrations.

the former Whitbread brewery in East London.

The 1950’s Prom themed evening will see UK brewers

In 1750 Samuel Whitbread, having bought property in

and their partners dress to impress as they indulge in

the area, transplanted his operations to Chiswell Street

a cocktail reception, a lavish three course meal and

from two smaller breweries in Old Street and Brick Lane.

unlimited beer, wine and soft drinks as they dance and celebrate into the early hours.

Following a hugely popular launch last year, The

Within a few years Whitbread’s brewery had become a vast operation, its sheer size making it an attraction worthy of royal visits. George III, Queen Charlotte, Queen

Brewers Choice Awards are back in 2020. We’re

Elizabeth II and Elizabeth the Queen Mother all visited the

broadening the field this year but the aim remains the

site.

same and that’s to showcase the finest in UK brewing and to put the best of the best in the spotlight.

The Brewers Choice Awards are split into seven

Brewing on the site continued until 1976, the last tanker pulling out of the South Yard on April 13, bringing to an end a 225-year era.

categories: Brewery Of The Year, New Brewery of The Year, Young Brewer of The Year, Beer of the Year, New Beer of The Year, Best Branding and Lifetime

KEY INFORMATION

Achievement Award.

Full details of this year’s awards will be published in the next edition of The Brewers Journal.

Education and team development is at the heart of the Brewers Congress mission. Day two is the largest

The Brewery 52 Chiswell Street, London EC1Y 4SD

gathering of breweries in the UK brewing Calendar.

More than 300 breweries come together to share their knowledge of brewing, industry trends, developments in

The time 8-9 December 2020

methodology, technology and ingredients.

The trade hall has been one of the most popular

Tickets at congress.brewersjournal.info

aspects of the event amongst attendees. This year we

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Rooster’s completes brewery investment exciting chapter in a twenty-seven-year history that has seen the company recognised as one of the originators and pioneers of the craft beer movement.

“The new brewery enhances both our brewing capabilities and our competitiveness in the marketplace, and means we’re exceptionally well placed to service the growing demand for our range of award-winning beers, both in the UK and further afield.”

Head brewer Oliver Fozard added: “Our focus has and always will be on brewing consistent, quality, easydrinking and well-balanced beers, so we’re very excited by all the new opportunities this bespoke plant opens up for us.

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ooster’s Brewing Co has completed a £850,000 investment into a new, state-of-the-art brewery and

“Not only does it enable us to significantly increase our production output for our ever expanding range of beers

taproom, three times the size of its previous premises, as

but, with the addition of the smaller plant, we now also

it looks to keep up with surging demand for its award-

have an exciting opportunity to channel the pioneering

winning beers.

creativity we’re known for and create a range of exciting,

It marks the end of an 18 month-long project which has seen the brewery transition from its former home at Grimbald Park near Knaresborough, to a new, purpose-

inspiring, flavour-filled limited edition beers that bring something completely new and different to the market.”

Alongside the brewery, Rooster’s has also invested in a

built 20,000 square feet brewery and taproom at

large onsite taproom to serve as a community hub, where

Hornbeam Park in Harrogate.

members of the local community and beer lovers from

Owned and run since 2011 by Ian Fozard and his two sons, Oliver and Tom, the move sees Rooster’s return to the town where the independent craft beer brewer first started life twenty-seven years ago.

The company’s new home comprises a bespoke brewhouse capable of producing over 30,000 litres of quality craft beer every week, as well as a large taproom,

everywhere can come and enjoy a range of Rooster’s beers and other drinks.

Open five days a week, from Wednesday through to Sunday, the taproom also has a street food kitchen, with a different street food trader joining every weekend to serve up a varied and ever-changing selection of food.

Tom Fozard, commercial director, said: “Harrogate is in

open since May last year, where people can try Rooster’s

Rooster’s DNA, it’s where the brewery first started life, so

world-renowned range of beers.

it’s extra special to be able to bring the company home.

There’s also an upstairs ‘Sample Room’ with a private

“Creating a taproom and upstairs event space where

bar overlooking the brewery, which can be hired for

people can socialise and enjoy themselves was really

parties and functions for up to 120 people.

important to us, as we want to embed ourselves at the

The new brewery, designed by head brewer Oliver Fozard and British-made using equipment sourced from UK manufacturers, will enable Rooster’s to almost double

heart of local community life and be known as more than just a brewery that makes really great beers.

“We regularly host local groups and parties and we’re

its production capacity immediately, with opportunities to

looking forward to welcoming many more through our

expand and increase this further in the long-term.

doors as word gets out about the lively and sociable

It boasts a state-of-the-art brewhouse, capable of producing 5,000 litre brews, which will be used to

community hub we’re creating here.”

The company, which employs 17 people, is planning

produce Rooster’s core range of popular beers. Alongside

on offering regular brewery tours later this year, providing

this main plant, Rooster’s has also invested in a smaller,

visitors with an opportunity to see for themselves just

1,600 litre brewing plant, which will be used to produce

what goes into producing its award-winning, vegan-

an ongoing range of new, flavour-packed limited-edition

friendly range of beers.

beers. These beers will form part an experimental sub-

Its brews, which include its flagship pale ale Yankee,

brand known as the ‘Outlaw Project’, launching in late

Baby-Faced Assassin and 24/7, are available in pubs and

February.

bars across the country and stocked in retailers ranging

Commenting on the company’s expansion, director Ian Fozard, said: “This move marks the start of a new and

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from the likes of Waitrose, Morrisons and Sainsbury’s through to smaller, specialist independent beer sellers.

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Brewgooder Global Gathering Campaign set to reach 250 brewer mark

T

he Scottish craft beer brand on a mission to use craft beer to bring 1,000,000 people clean drinking water,

Brewgooder has attracted more than 240 brewers from around the world to its biggest campaign to date.

The Global Gathering is a collaborative brewing project on a mission to provide clean water for 100,000 people in developing countries.

Launched in November, the campaign aims to partner with hundreds of breweries in the UK and around the world to brew unique, small-batch beers. A coordinated release of the beers will take place over the weekend of World Water Day – March 20-22nd 2020.

The campaign has gained the backing from brewers from California to Hong Kong, with the UK represented by over 145 brewers from Fort William in the Scottish Highlands, to Bodmin in Cornwall.

There will be one-off beers from Northern Monk, Cloudwater, Vocation, Harbour, Beavertown, Tiny Rebel,

discount on any keg used in the Global Gathering by

Curious Brewing – to mention just a few of the many

speaking to their local Kegstar contact.

brilliant contributors.

Each Global Gathering brew will raise upwards of £500

The packaging design for each collaborative beer will be inspired by the theme ‘water’ and designed by each

contributing to a fundraising target of £250,000 for the

individual brewery using two distinct colours – orange

overall campaign. All proceeds will be donated to The

to represent beer and blue to represent water. Once

Brewgooder Foundation and spent on its clean water

brewed, every beer will be released simultaneously at

projects in 2020/21.

participating venues on the weekend of 20-22nd March

Bars and drinks retailers across the UK are being encouraged to support the record-breaking collaboration by stocking Global Gathering beers.

Licensees wanting to be part of this craft beer

2020, which coincides with World Water Day. Brewers are also invited to contribute a song inspired by their local area to a Spotify playlist for the weekend, which will represent the diverse range of

movement should ask suppliers for the Global Gathering

companies involved in the project and show the variety of

Brews from their chosen participating brewers.

communities involved in making a difference.

A full list of participating breweries, bars and stockists

Alan Mahon, founder of Brewgooder, commented:

will be available on Brewgooder’s website in the lead up

“The Global Gathering aims to bring together one of the

to the event.

most vibrant and passionate communities in the world.

To date, Brewgooder has worked with BrewDog (who will also be releasing a special beer for World Water Day) on their flagship clean water lager, with 100% of

It will show what a positive impact craft beer can have when brewers act together.

“The craft beer community is no stranger to

profits going to support over 130 projects in Malawi.

collaboration, but this project takes that to a whole new

These projects include well rehabilitations, new borehole

level. It will help empower 100,000 people by giving them

construction, sanitation systems and water mapping to

something the rest of us take for granted: clean water.

ensure the long-term sustainability of well constructions.

Through the Brewgooder Foundation, the projects have already positively impacted 65,000 lives and counting.

To support brewers of all sizes to get involved,

“To have already received the support of almost 250 brewers in this campaign is incredible.

"Our whole team is humbled by the willingness of so many incredible brewers to adopt our mission as their own. We cannot thank them enough.”

Brewgooder has partnered with Crisp Malt who are kindly donating 20 bags of malt to each participating brewery for their unique brew.

To find out more and join the movement, visit www. brewgooder.com/gathering

In addition to this, breweries can receive a 10%

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Everards appoint new head brewer later this year and Jon is working on delivering a flexible brewery which will brew a wide range of beers of the highest quality.

In the meantime, Everards are working with partner brewers to brew their well-known range and lots of limited-edition beers from IPAs to very special Festive Ales.

Stephen Gould, managing director of Everards said: “We are delighted to welcome Jon to the team. Jon brings the technical expertise to maintain excellent consistency across the brewing of our high-quality beer range, and the passion and flair to continue exploring and introducing new and exciting beer flavours and style to meet and lead on market trends.”

“We recognise that drinkers want to enjoy a great range and are seeing trends around lower strength beers as well as new flavours and beer types. However,

L

eicestershire brewer Everards has appointed

they still want to enjoy traditional styles and have high

Jonathan Elks as its new head brewer.

expectations of quality.. Throughout 2020 we will continue

He joins the Everards team with a wealth of experience

and knowledge, after 18 years with Carlsberg UK. He’s a master brewer and was awarded the prestigious JS Hough Award upon qualifying for achieving the highest overall marks in the five modules of the Master Brewer

to work with partner brewers to deliver a fantastic range and we are excited to have Jon on board with his creative ideas to brew both classic and experimental styles and help us to shape our brewing future.”

Commenting on his role, Elks said: “Brewing beer is my passion and it’s great to have the opportunity to work with

exam.

As head brewer, Elks will oversee all aspects of the brewing and packaging of the Everards beer range, including their iconic ‘Tiger’ ale, as well as leading on the evolution of their innovative limited-edition brews.

Everards open their new state-of-the-art brewery

an independent brewer with an interesting heritage and such an exciting future ahead.

“I’m eager to get stuck in and continue the innovation of the fantastic beer range and add something different to our traditional beer portfolio."

Timothy Taylor’s makes keg debut

T

imothy Taylor’s has launched its first keg ale, Hopical Storm.

Hopical Storm is a 4% ABV aromatic, dry-hopped,

modern pale that initially launched as a well-received cask product in Summer 2019.

However, it also performed “exceptionally well” when we trialled it in keg at high-profile festivals and selected pubs.

The brewery said in a statement: “Our core business remains in cask, but we recognise that there are some

Hopical Storm is brewed using whole leaf hops

quality outlets that either would prefer to offer a keg range

grown entirely in the UK. Citrusy and sessionable, it has

to suit changing customers needs or do not have the

a pleasant fruity body topped with flavours of mandarin,

cellar space throughput or staff expertise to serve cask.

mango and passion fruit and the style of beer particularly

“However, they do want to serve premium, consistent beers from well-respected breweries such as ourselves.”

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suits the keg format and a cooler serve for warmer weather.

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New kit to detect beer-spoiling bacteria is a definite need for quality management and early preventative controls to reduce the risk of product spoilage. A few genera have the ability to generate offflavors, turbidity and acidity, which can often lead to entire beer batches needing to be recalled, high economic loss and in the worst case, the brand being impacted,” said Alois Schneiderbauer, CBO of Biotecon Diagnostics.

They added: ““As a well-established and key player in molecular biological testing for the food and beverage industry, we have long been developing and introducing kits to the market that alleviate the impact of spoilage.

“Our new kit complements the Foodproof Beer Screening 1 LyoKit nicely and also completes our PCR

A

new lyophilized real-time PCR that can test for

diagnostics portfolio for the brewing industry, which

simultaneous detection of 30+ beer spoilage

includes all relevant beer-spoiling bacteria, spoilage

organisms that also differentiates between some of the worst spoilers, has been launched.

The Foodproof Beer Screening 2 LyoKit, from Biotecon

yeasts, Legionella and Alicyclobacillus.”

The new kit is based on real-time PCR technology, which is well-established in the brewing and beverage

Diagnostics, can differentiate between the lactic acid

industry as a highly sensitive and specific detection

bacteria (Lactobacillus and Pediococcus) and the most

method.

troublesome obligate anaerobic spoilage bacteria (Megasphaera and Pectinatus).

As the latest addition to its existing brewing product

It also uses 5’Nuclease probes, resulting in lower production costs and a more favorable retail price. The fact that the kit is lyophilized means it is easy to handle

portfolio designed specifically for breweries, the multiplex

and store, with less shipping costs, reduced cross-

kit can also screen for the hop tolerance genes, horA and

contamination risks and higher sensitivity. Additionally, the

horC.

new kit is compatible with various existing open platform

“With the ever-expanding brewing industry, there

Murphy & Son’s shuttle system speeds up supplies

multi-channel real-time PCR instruments.

more traditional wide aisle or very narrow aisle racking system.

Taking into account the varying factors and

urphy & Son has invested in a new shuttle system to

M

complexities, the resulting solution SEC designed was a

increase the efficiency of its supplies operation.

pallet-shuttle system which would optimise the capacity

of ways, from intermediate bulk container (IBC) and

an efficient operation on a FIFO basis. This pallet-shuttle

individual barrels, through to small boxed items stored on

system is a semi-automated solution that intelligently

traditional pallets, and subsequently required a storage

moves pallets within the racking system, enabling

solution that would maximise the cubic capacity of the

warehouse operatives to carry out other tasks. The shuttle

building.

is loaded onto the desired lane by a forklift truck.

The company’s finished goods are stored in a number

SEC Storage carried out a detailed analysis of their

of the building, similar to a drive-in system, but provide

Once initiated, the shuttle travels down the lane until

finished goods SKU data on a volumetric, cubic and

it reaches the next available pallet position. When it has

quantitative basis, which identified a unique operation and

located the pallet, the hydraulic loading plate activates,

requirement.

securing the pallet on top of the shuttle.

In order to optimise the efficiency of the temperature-

The shuttle takes the pallet from the finished goods

controlled warehouse, which has doors at either end (one

end of the system and delivers it to the dispatch end.The

for incoming finished-goods from production and one for

six-lane wide, thirteen-meter-deep pallet-shuttle system

dispatch), it was identified that separating dispatch and

provides storage for over 450 pallets. Due to the way in

replenishment would be best suited to the space.

which the pallet-shuttle operates, it is able to transport

They also discovered a type of bulk storage system would be best suited to the space as opposed to the

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varying pallet and container types, which is particularly suited to Murphy & Son’s operation.

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Good Things Brewing Co sets sights on future

S

ussex-based Good Things Brewing Co is nearing completion of its latest expansion phase by

revamping a 17th Century barn into a state-of-the art brewing complex, allowing it to produce up to half a million litres of beer per year.

The year-long transformation has seen the opening of an onsite brewery tap, which served its first pint on Friday 7th February.

The occasion was marked by the creation of a limitededition beer in collaboration with Manchester’s Marble Brewery, mashed-in a matter of hours before the doors and we have an unbeatable team in place that will help

opened.

The brewery currently produces a core range of four modern craft beers, a Pilsner, a Pale Ale, an IPA and a low AVB Pale, available in can and keg. In addition, a monthly

crank things up a notch and take our beer – and our vision – to more people.�

This latest move will see Good Things realise its plan

range of experimental and classic-style limited-edition

of becoming a closed loop brewery – meaning it will

brews, plus collaboration projects with some of the most

operate in a fully sustainable manner.

existing breweries in the UK, complete the varied line-up

100% powered by solar panels neatly tucked behind the brew house, the brewing process starts with water

of beer.

Co-founder Chris Drummond said: “It has been an epic journey so far and we’re committed to our vision of brewing the beer we love, that’s better for the world we

bored from a 96 meter well onsite and ends with delivery via a fleet of electric-only vehicles.

The spent grain from the brewing process is put through a dehydrator which dries the grain overnight,

love. “Good Things is now primed and ready for next chapter

using only green energy.

FERMENTATION RANGE 25 to 40°C (77 to 104°F) FLOCCULATION Very high ALCOHOL TOLERANCE 12% ABV ATTENUATION Medium to high

VOSS

LalBrewÂŽ voss

www.lallemandbrewing.com

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Dig Brew Co appoints new head brewer ale, a dark lager and a fruited sour.

Andy was keen to join Dig Brew after the brewery was honoured with the 2019 Raise the Bar Award for winning a competition, run by festival organisers We are Beer, to find the UK’s best up and com-ing craft brewers.

Dig Brew was established at its former factory premises in 2017 by Oliver Webb, a Slade Art School graduate, with the support of Peter Towler of Mad O’Rourke’s Pie Factory in Tipton.

It brews and distributes a rotating line up of repeated beers – including a lager (called Hell), sour fruit smoothie

Dig Brew Co: Andy Whyte with Oliver Webb

D

(California) and a New England pale ale (Optimo) – as well as a constantly changing range of seasonal lagers,

ig Brew Co has appointed a new head brewer.

Andy Whyte, a University of Plymouth Masters

graduate, will lead the brewing team at the brew-ery’s premises on River Street in Digbeth, Birmingham.

The 25-year-old from London previously co-owned ‘cuckoo’ brewery Whyte Bär Brewing, which licensed other breweries to create beers to his own recipes.

Andy also worked in the packaging department for

stouts, sours and pale ales to pubs, bars and off licences nationally.

Dig Brew also runs a pizza restaurant, Dough, and organises a regular programme of food, drink, music and art-based events. Its plans for 2020 include opening an art gallery, coffee bar and a film club on the premises.

Andy Whyte, who lives in Stirchley, said: “I am delighted to have joined such a creative community

Siren Craft Brew in Berkshire while studying for his degree

minded brewery that believes in creating exciting new

in geology.

beers that are aesthetically pleasing as well as complex

His craft beer brewing experience began with home brewing while he was a student in Exeter after being

and varied in their flavours.

“I am particularly excited about using my experience

disappointed by a lack of variety in the beers on offer at

of working with different brewers and my ana-lytical skills

his local bars and pubs at the time.

acquired at university to capitalise on the current interest

One of his first achievements as head brewer has been

in New England styles – and I am already working on my

to source a Dig Brew tap takeover for ‘TRYanuary’ at The

own recipe to create a lower alcohol version of Dig Brew’s

Pursuit of Hoppiness, a renowned ale and wine house in

best-selling Optimo.”

Exeter that serves the best beers from makers nationally.

The range of specially made Dig Brew beers on tap

Oliver Webb added: “Andy’s experience will be invaluable as we look to grow our reputation in the craft

throughout the day included three styles of IPA, a pale

beer market and export our beers worldwide.”

St Austell creates beer and brands role

St Austell Brewery – a wonderful family business which

Turner added: “I am absolutely thrilled to be joining brews fantastic beers and runs great pubs, both of which

S

t Austell Brewery, has announced the appointment of Andrew Turner, to the newly created role of managing

director of Beer and Brands.

Andrew, currently trading director with Heineken UK, will join St Austell to lead the company’s award-winning own beer and wholesale drinks business.

Kevin Georgel, chief executive said: “I am delighted that Andy will be joining St Austell Brewery.

With almost 20 years’ experience and success gained

are very close to my heart.

“It’s a really exciting time to join the business. I believe St Austell Brewery is very well placed to benefit from the resurgence in consumer interest in beer, coupled with the increasing importance of authenticity and community.

“I am very much looking forward to joining Kevin and the team and taking the business on to its next stage of growth.”

This latest high-profile appointment to St Austell

within Heineken UK, he brings the ideal experience,

Brewery comes one month after Kevin Georgel became

talents and personality to compliment the skills of the

chief executive and less than a year after Georgina Young

existing team, and to lead our beer and brands division

joined the company from Fuller’s, as head brewer of Bath

into its next exciting chapter.”

Ales – which St Austell Brewery acquired in 2016.

16

March 2020

Brewers Journal

n e ws

Moorhouse’s in export drive Moorhouse’s is back in profit after reporting a £37,000 pre-tax profit for the last financial year compared to a pre-tax loss of £275,000 in 2018 with annual turnover remaining constant at around £4.5m.

The company is currently in year three of its turnaround plan which has seen a full rebrand of the business as well as a programme of improved efficiency initiatives.

Moorhouse’s has also appointed Bacup-based James Labels & Supplies Ltd to print all its bottle labels moving forward.

Lee Williams, managing director of Moorhouse’s Brewery said: “As a business, we are not just proud of the beer we brew but also working with local businesses,

B

urnley-based Moorhouse’s Brewery has appointed Blackburn’s Sovereign Beverage Company as its new

spending over £600k with Lancashire companies alone.

“Increasing our exports is a key part of our growth

export agents. Sovereign’s remit is to grow Moorhouse’s

strategy and to have the team at Sovereign Beverage,

sales around the world.

who are experts in their field also just down from the

The three-year deal will initially see Sovereign target the key markets of Scandinavia, Canada, South America and the Far East.

It has already secured sales in Finland. Operating in 60 countries, Sovereign Beverage Company is the UK’s largest exporter of premium beverages.

The firm will be marketing Moorhouse’s complete

road from us, gives us confidence we will see growth in overseas markets in the years to come.”

Craig Johnstone, head of sales at Sovereign Beverage Company added: “We are delighted to be working with Moorhouse’s Brewery as it is such an iconic name.

“It has a fantastic product range as well as a pedigree and history that we are sure will resonate with the

range including the newly launched Ice Witch as well as

importers and distributors in our target territories who are

Blonde Witch which is its best-selling bottled beer.

always looking for something new, unique or that has a

The announcement follows the recent news that

Process heating for small breweries

H

real point of difference.”

bore tubular heat exchanger.

“A fan, positioned at the far end of the tube arrangement, then pulls the products of combustion

eating vessels by gas offers clear-cut economies of

through the system to achieve heating that is both evenly

use compared to alternatives such as elec-tricity or

distributed and efficient – in most cas-es in excess of 80%

steam, a manufacturer has claimed.

Lanemark, which offers tank heating small diameter

is achieved.”

Langford adds that, where appropriate, both copper

immersion tube burner systems is, said it has proven

and hot liquor burner systems can be con-nected to a

results for use in vertical cylindrical coppers and hot liquor

common flue while still retaining individual burner control.

tanks.

Adrian Langford, general manager at the Nuneaton-

One of the major considerations for vessel heating in this sector of the brewing industry is the need to ensure

based company said such systems can be readily used

that the capacity of each tank is optimised so this means

with both natural or propane gas supplies and benefit

that the tube system needs to impact as little as possible.

from its dedicated TX Calc design software which

He said: “Where the tank being heating is rectangular,

accurately calculates the heat input requirements to

this is invariably achieved by a multi-pass, parallel

predict immersion tube heat exchanger performance.

tube arrangement “but in this field, many vessels are

He explained: “In all cases, our designs comprise a

cylindrical.

burner, ranging in output from 15 to 730 kW to suit the

“As a result, we have developed a helical coil tube

installation needs, which is mounted on the outside of

design which sits on the base of the tank, fol-lowing the

the vessel, firing through the wall into a submerged, small

curved wall in a circular layout."

brewersjournal.info

March 2020

17

n e ws

WO R LD

AB InBev CFO steps down A

nheuser-Busch InBev HAS announced that Felipe Dutra, its chief financial and technology officer, will

step down from his position.

Fernando Tennenbaum has been appointed the new

deliver best-in-class cash flow and shareholder value.

"Felipe’s contributions to our value creation are significant and wide-ranging. He has been the steward of our financial discipline, which has freed up resources to

chief financial officer (CFO) while David Almeida will

invest behind the organic growth of our business. He has

become chief strategy and technology officer and Nelson

played a key role in the creations of Ambev and InBev,

Jamel appointed chief people officer.

as well as in our landmark combinations with Anheuser-

They will be part of the company’s senior leadership team and report to CEO Carlos Brito.

Carlos Brito, CEO, stated: “Felipe’s departure is

Busch, Grupo Modelo and SAB. “In the last few years, he has also driven the creation of our leading Technology function. Perhaps most

bittersweet. For nearly 30 years, he has been a champion

importantly, he developed a strong bench of internal

of our company and a fantastic partner to me and the

talent for both Finance and Technology as part of his

members of our Senior Leadership Team as we grew the

legacy. We are very grateful to Felipe and wish him the

company.

best of luck in his future endeavours.”

“Felipe feels that now is the right time to embark on new projects, and we are respectful of his decision.

“Felipe’s contributions to AB InBev are hard to

The company’s incoming CFO Tennenbaum is a 15year veteran of the company and presently serves as vice president of finance for the company’s South America

overstate. Since becoming CFO in 1999 of what was then

Zone, as well as chief financial and investor relations

Brahma, he has embodied the spirit of true ownership

officer of its Brazilian subsidiary Ambev S.A., a publicly

and has been the architect of our company’s financial

traded company listed on the Brazilian Stock Exchange

strategy, our risk management policy and our drive to

and NYSE.

sourced from a farm just a few minutes from the brewery.

Unique to this one-time brew, the same farm provided the Cascade hops that lends Triple Hop’d Lager its desirable floral and citrus/grapefruit profile. Jointly, the American and German hops shape the unique and exciting profile of a very enjoyable 5.8% ABV beer.

This one-time limited offering, in addition to the “perfect pilsner”, Bitburger Premium Pils, will be available in selected global markets, including the United States.

“It was a privilege for us to work with the Bitburger brewers on the Festbier collaboration, and to be able to

Sierra Nevada collabs with Germany's Bitburger

work out a second project with the Triple Hop’d Lager is the icing on the cake. We’re proud to have the opportunity to brew together in the beautiful Bitburger brewery and meet the team there, and we’re very excited about the

S

ierra Nevada has collaborated with Bitburger to

project and the beer itself,” said Scott Jennings, Sierra

produce Triple Hop’d Lager.

Nevada brewmaster.

The beer is the second time the breweries have

Dr. Stefan Meyna, brewmaster at Bitburger, added:

partnered, following on from the release of an

“After our successful collaboration last year, we knew that

Oktoberfest style beer last year.

we wanted to partner again with Sierra Nevada.

This time out, Sierra Nevada’s Brian Grossman and

“Our brewing philosophies, commitment to using

Scott Jennings traveled to Bitburg, Germany, to brew the

quality materials and keeping our loyal customers at

next collaboration beer at the Bitburger brewery.

the forefront are completely in sync. After our wonderful

Triple Hop’d Lager, available next month, is highlighted

experience at Sierra Nevada in Mills River, North Carolina,

by a combination of American hops, Cascade, Centennial,

it was only natural that we returned the hospitality

and Chinook, paired together with ‘Siegelhopfen’ –

and welcomed them to brew our next beer in Bitburg,

Bitburger’s proprietary and unique hop blend that’s

Germany.”

18

March 2020

Brewers Journal

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quality

control

c o m m e nt

Deliver Quality, consistently Producing and distributing beer you’re proud of is imperative as a brewer. Here, Mike Tysarczyk from First Key Consulting outlines some QC components she sees as essential to producing good beer on a consistent basis

by Mike Tysarczyk

I

GMPs should also include proper health and sanitation requirements for the brewery team as well as cleaning and upkeep for equipment and tools, such as written CIP (clean in place) procedures for each piece of equipment in the brewhouse. Other GMPs should cover the use and placement of chemicals, product date coding and proper pest control.

“There are so many different aspects to running a brewery,” said Corbett, who served as a microbiologist with Labatt and set up a QC program at Mill St. Brewery in

t’s packaging day. The canning line is powered up.

Ontario, Canada. “Even small locations can have multiple

The team is busy monitoring the flow and packing

team members performing similar routines.

out cases of a beer that has been nearly three weeks in the making.

One problem: No one has yet tasted the new

IPA that’s due to be sold in the taproom later that day and released for small-scale distribution in the area. There is

It’s important to have everyone following the same proper steps – as well as ongoing internal auditing of those steps – to ensure rigor around these processes.

That drives consistency.”

GMPs come into play even before opening a brewery

no guarantee the packaged beer is ready for customers

as everyone should follow appropriate design and

to drink.

construction protocols. Wood and fabric that cannot be

It’s a scenario that plays out more often than many would think in today’s beer industry. Increased

easily cleaned or kept free of bacteria should not be used, for example.

competition, changing consumer demands and streamlined staffs push many breweries to bring beers

2. Yeast cell counts and viability testing

to market without a system in place to help deliver consistent, high-quality products.

It doesn’t have to be that way. With training, targeted investments and time-tested techniques, breweries can implement a quality control program that covers all of the basics.

Y

east, the only living organism in beer, requires careful usage and monitoring.

“When underpitched, fermentations can slow

or not come to a complete finish,” said Corbett. “It can

Oralee Corbett, of brewery consulting firm First Key,

also lead to diacetyl in the finished product, leaving

lays out the five QC components she sees as essential to

off flavours akin to butterscotch or buttered popcorn.

producing good beer consistently.

Overpitching simply wastes valuable yeast and can lead to other issues.”

1. Good Manufacturing Practices (GMPs)

Stressed yeast, which results from low cell counts or inadequate yeast storage practices can result in undesirable characteristics, such as beer with meaty,

G

MPs equate to good housekeeping in production

green apple or rotten egg flavours.

To guard against stressed yeast Corbett suggests each

facilities. Though GMPs can vary from brewery to

brewery perform yeast cell counts and viability testing.

brewery, these practices serve as the foundation

Testing the yeast regularly requires widely available

for producing good beer and creating a safe and clean

lab equipment, including a microscope and a

workspace.

hemocytometer.

For example, typical brewery GMPs cover the steps

The full cell count procedure can be found on the

needed to meet all government regulations, such as food

websites of many yeast providers and through other

handling and equipment safety practices.

industry sources.

brewersjournal.info

March 2020

21

C o m m e nt

Q uality

control

3. Simple microbiological testing

contain higher oxygen levels.

Measure DO and TPO. Many brewers use tools such as the Anton Paar CBoxQC or the Haffman’s Portable Optical CO2/O2/TPO Meter c-DGM to measure DO and total

T

hough brewers yeast is wanted and needed in the brewhouse, other microorganisms are not, generally speaking. Bacteria, such as

Lactobacillus and Pediococcus, and wild yeast, including Brettanomyces, can easily pervade the brewing environment.

packaged oxygen (TPO) during each run.

When the measured values run high, which is bad, steps such as adjusting fill levels or seamer settings can be taken to avoid oxidized beer.

5. Bright beer sensory analysis

These organisms, which can be found on people, in ingredients or in the air, among other places, can lead to spoiled batches, unsavory off flavours, unwanted haze and excessive carbonation.

Those breweries that rigorously follow brewhouse sanitation GMPs can help prevent beer spoilage caused by unwanted microbes. Their presence, though, can only be determined through proper testing.

Corbett recommends using HLP tubes (Hsu’s Lactobacillus-Pediococcus) to test for those beer-spoilage

T

he scenario painted at the beginning of this story – where beer was packaged without being tasted – simply doesn’t happen at breweries that have

instituted a disciplined sensory analysis program.

“This is your most important quality check,” said Corbett. “Does the beer taste the way you want it to taste?

Is it ready for your customers to purchase?”

Sensory analysis programs can be simple and

bacteria in the finished product. Brewers can also use

fun. The key is to have select members of your staff

outside labs for testing or send samples to another

(including non-brewers) trained to pick up off-flavors and

brewery with the required capabilities.

understand the proper characteristics of key beer styles.

“These are not very expensive or time-consuming

This group, known as a sensory panel, should taste

practices,” said Corbett. “Particularly when factoring

beer from the brite tank one to two days before it’s

in potential revenue lost from a spoiled batch or the

scheduled to be packaged.

reputational risk created by a product recall.” When

The packaging team should also make a practice of

possible, microbiological testing should also occur

setting aside cans or bottles from select packaging runs

upstream to help prevent potential issues.

to taste at a later date.

This will provide the team with a good sense of each

4. Oxidation prevention

P

eople need oxygen; beer does not. Oxidized beer creates a papery or cardboard taste and masks the brewer’s intended aromas and flavours. Just

style’s shelf life and offer insights into how flavor profiles change over time.

In conclusion: Rigor and discipline

100 parts per billion of dissolved oxygen (DO) in a finished package can reduce the shelf life of a beer by up to several weeks.

Oxidation can occur several ways, but the most common are aerated water, poor equipment operation and maintenance and improper packaging.

Breweries that consistently follow standard

P

utting best practices related to these five key elements of quality control can serve as an invaluable tool for breweries.

Though Corbett notes leaders and team members

must follow each of the five programs with rigor and with

maintenance and packaging GMPs will generally avoid

a continuous improvement mindset for the QC program

oxidized beer, but here are a few specific practices to

to be as effective as possible.

keep in mind.

Clean your parts. Improperly cleaned or maintained

This implies collecting the right data, and regularly reviewing it, to take preventive and corrective actions. u

pumps, valves and gaskets can create air pockets or carbon dioxide (CO2) leaks in tanks containing beer that is being packaged or about to be packaged.

About First Key

Package properly. Ensure beer is being filled and

At First Key, we understand that a brewery is more than

capped properly to avoid capturing air in the packaged

just a building where beer is brewed. A brewery is also

product.

a tight-knit group of people with a common purpose.

For example, cans should be filled until a mushroom

Whether you are building a new brewery business,

cap of foam rises just above the rim before the lid is set

or expanding we are able to provide the necessary

in place and seamed. Low-filled cans will undoubtedly

services to get the job done.

22

March 2020

Brewers Journal

Whitby Tanks BREWERY TANKS BOUGHT AND SOLD

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sales@whitbytanks.co.uk | 01947 606 237

d e a r

J o hn

Session Beers and United States Seeing what the world has to offer, especially when it comes to beer, is one of John Keeling’s great passions. And who can blame him? But in doing so, he's seeing a lack of quality session-strength brews in the world of modern, craft beer and thinks that needs to change.

and also his last decision when promoting me to be Brewing Director. Obviously in between those two rubbish decisions, he had made lots of good ones, including the idea brew the first Vintage Ale. The evening was a great success, how could it fail giving free 8.5% ABV beer to beer journalists! At the end Michael came up to me with Mark Dorber and asked if I was attending the Beer World Cup in San Diego. I said I wasn’t going, and I didn’t think it would be possible.

by JOHN KEELING

I

He then immediately collared Michael Turner and Anthony Fuller, MD and Chairman of Fuller’s respectively

am a very lucky man. My beer connections have

and told them it was a disgrace that British brewers, and

given me the opportunity to travel around the world

in particular, the Fuller’s Brewing Director, was not at the

and it’s something I have continued to do in my

Beer World Cup.

retirement.

My first major overseas trip was just after I had

been promoted to Brewing Director at Fuller’s in 1999. It

They immediately agreed with him, called me over and told me in no uncertain terms to go.

Michael then told me that he and Mark were going to

had been decided that we were to have a major push in

get me invited as a judge and they would propose and

the United States and that required the Brewing Director

second me for that job.

to be present at a number of events in New York and

So not only was I flying to San Diego, but I was going to be a judge at the Beer World Cup. All thanks to Michael

Boston.

So off I went on my first trip to America and you could

Jackson and Mark Dorber. In San Diego I met several

say that it kind of whetted my appetite. I also found out

brewers and writers who remain friends to this day. The

that Fuller’s directors always flew business class. A fact

Beer World Cup is still the best beer event I know but now

that I used for every trip after.

it is several degrees of magnitude bigger.

My next trip was entirely the work of Michael Jackson,

I am actually writing this in San Diego enjoying a little

the much-loved and much-missed beer writer. Michael,

beery holiday. San Diego is a great place to visit and one

along with several other beer journalists, were invited to

of the best places for beer in the world.

the first ever vertical Vintage Ale tasting in the Hock Cellar at the Fuller’s Griffin Brewery in London.

I, of course, had to lead the tasting and in the audience

I’ve met up with Bill Vanderburgh whose twitter handle is @CraftBeerInSanDiego. We went to Second Chance in North Park and then onto Mike Hess for a couple more. I

was Reg Drury, my old boss, so I had the opportunity to

will also be taking in San Francisco during my trip where

thank him for the wise decision to hire me.

I will be visiting Heretic Brewery. I hope Symone has her

In fact, I was Reg’s first decision upon becoming brewing director when he hired me as junior brewer

24

March 2020

drinking boots on.

Whilst in California I still keep a close eye on things in

Brewers Journal

d e a r

the UK and notice that Pete Brown has become a legend but more importantly he wrote some very kind words about Fuller’s ESB in a blog entitled Flagship February for which I thank him.

One of the points he made was that brewing has been under the control of Asahi for nearly a year now and the beer has definitely not changed.

Indeed, I can confirm that and also know that my old team are very happy with the investment coming into the brewery and at Dark Star too. Long may it continue.

There are not many ESB’s in San Diego and it seems to be a bit of a forgotten style. I think this is a great shame because it has something a lot of craft beers lack which is great drinkability.

I know in the UK it is regarded as a strong beer but in the USA, it is seen to be on the weaker side. It is overdue a revival I think because the craft beer sector lacks a wealth of session beers, at least great ones like ESB. I now have to plan a spring trip to the states because I will be attending the next Beer World Cup in San Antonio.

I think I will tag on visits to Houston (well that’s where NASA is), Charleston and New Orleans.

Looks like this year will be a busy one. u

brewersjournal.info

“

j o hn

I can confirm that and also know that my old team are very happy with the investment coming into Fuller’s and at Dark Star too. Long may it continue John Keeling

March 2020

25

B r e w e r s

Le c tu r e s

norw i ch

Brewers Lectures | NORWICH We’re thrilled to be hosting our first Brewers Lectures in Norwich. Taking place on the 18th March at Dragon Hall, it’ll be an afternoon of thought-provoking, engaging discussion, an opportunity to catch up with friends old and new and the chance to enjoy some excellent beer.

N

orwich.

The City of Ale. The Brewers Lectures come to Norwich for the first time this March and we couldn't be happier. Join

us for an afternoon of thought-provoking talks, engaging discussion and of course, excellent beer.

In 2020, the Norwich City of Ale celebrates its 10th year. So there was no better time for the Brewers Lectures to host its first event in this fine city.

Miranda Hudson | Duration Brewing Miranda Hudson is co-founder of Duration Brewing, a progressive farmhouse brewery built to make ‘Beers That Belong’ in Norfolk.

Miranda’s deft project management skills have raised Duration’s profile ahead of its imminent opening later this year. Miranda and Derek Bates (co-founder and brewer) have released high profile collaborative and own beers while planning and building Duration from the ground up to deliver wild ales and fresh beers with purpose.

Taking place on the 18th March, it promises to be a fantastic afternoon with talks from some of the industry’s leading lights. With this there will be absorbing discussion and a wealth of brilliant beer.

KEY INFORMATION The Venue Dragon Hall, 115-123 King Street, Norwich, NR1 1QE The time 18 March 2019 12.30pm to 5pm

26

March 2020

Jamie Ramshaw | Simpsons Malt Jamie Ramshaw is the UK Technical Sales Manager at Simpsons Malt. Jamie has more than two decades worked closely with most of the UK brewing industry in his previous roles at Murphy and Son and also Wells & Youngs.

Brewers Journal

norw i ch

B r e w e r s

Le c tu r e s

SUPPORTED BY

Yvan Seth | Jolly Good Beer Yvan Seth is the founder of wholesale craft beer distribution and dispense business Jolly Good Beer. Seth says he’s a “beer enthusiast putting his life towards promoting the best beers he can find” but he’s much more than that. An expert and advocate in cold-chain distribution, Seth ensures customers get the beer they want while breweries, pubs and pubs call on him time and time again for his wide-ranging expertise in dispense.

Charles O’Reilly | Burnt Mill Brewery Charles O’Reilly is the founder of Suffolk’s Burnt Mill. The Badley-based brewery has gone from strength-to-strength since starting out back in 2015, including being recognised as the Best New Brewery in England at the prestigious RateBeer Awards. Its beers such as Pintle, Galaxy Fog and Rosetta Cone have resonated with drinkers, just as its collaborations with breweries such as Cloudwater, Fieldwork, Other Half and Finback.

Lotte Peplow | Brewers Association Lotte Peplow is the craft beer ambassador for Europe at the Brewers Association. A Certified Cicerone and beer sommelier, Lotte also writes about beer, judges beer, brews beer, and is a keen beer and food pairing advocate.

Christian Townsley | North Brewing Co Christian Townsley is a pioneer of the modern UK brewing industry. Along with his co-founder John Gyngell, Townsley founded North Bar and North Brewing, picking up a wealth of awards for their beer, branding and business acumen.

brewersjournal.info

March 2020

27

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recruitment

t r e n d ing

Find the perfect fit If we are not creating and working in an environment that we love, one that excites us and challenges us, then we are not at our best. Failing to bring the best version of ourselves to the party everyday hurts our chances of success.

So, what do you do if you’re not? The Brewers Journal talks to brewing recruitment expert Julie Carling of The Carling Partnership to find out more. by velo mitrovich

A

increase in candidates contacting us in mid-January and September,” says Julie Carling. “We put this down to people taking time to assess their careers during holiday times and an element of new year new start and the impetus to do something about it. Activity during 2019 was affected by the uncertainty of Brexit to a certain extent.”

Where to turn

A

nd if I’m looking for work. Why should I go through an employment agency as opposed to just emailing my CV out there?

She says: “How are you going to find a new role? You

ll of us are working for a brand. This could

would expect me to say you should use a professional

be a brand of beer, a brand of brewing

recruiter as this will give you access to a wide selection

equipment, or a brand of supplies and

of active roles. We work directly with the owners’ and HR

raw materials. It’s a brand we care about,

departments of leading brewing/distilling companies

it’s what gets us moving every Monday

both global and craft.

morning, and it’s what pays the bills.

If you’re the founder of that brand, you care about

“We will also have a greater understanding of the culture of the business, whether the fit between

growth, you care about putting value in your brand, and

candidate/client is going to work. As a candidate, we will

you care about success.

be representing you with the client, able to offer insights

But there is another brand that sometimes gets

into the company/people and offer interview advise –

overlooked in all of this and that’s Brand You. What are

basically “hold your hand” through the entire recruitment

you doing to put value in yourself, in creating the best

process.”

brand that you can be?

Some work experts believe that once a year you

Carling adds that there are other avenues open to you such as word of mouth, on-line specialist job boards,

should take the time to evaluate your job – your own

company websites, social media or simply forwarding a

personal brand. Are you doing the work you want to

speculative CV.

be doing? Are you happy with your pay; job location; opportunities for advancement; and career enrichment?

If you’re not, it might be time for a change. But is

“We also have assignments that are not advertised so are able to offer candidates opportunities that they would never know about. By working closely with clients and

there one particular time of year that recruiters see a lot

candidates we excel at matching people and knowing

of movement taking place with people looking for new

what culture they will work best in,” she explains. “Also,

positions?

our knowledge of a role will be greater than what is

“During 2019, movement was spread evenly throughout the year. In past years we have seen an

brewersjournal.info

advertised and often the perfect role for a candidate is not the one they consider themselves suitable for.”

March 2020

29

t r e n d ing

recruitment

ON-BOARDING

DEFINE THE ROLE

OFFER

TIMESCALES

INTERVIEWS

JOB DESCRIPTION

MARKET THE ROLE

Above: The Carling Partnership's recruitment process

Carling says: “A smaller brewery can give you greater exposure to lots of areas of the business and scope to be involved in new product development and recipe

And when it comes to look at a new role, is it that they

development. With a smaller company you will most

want a new challenge, better pay, work in a new location,

likely be closer to the customer and in many cases you’ll

or a combination of the three?

have more of an opportunity to help develop the strategy

“The reasons that people look for new roles are many and varied and often, surprisingly, it is often not driven by

for the business.”

So, you’ve been at the same brewery for years and

money. These can be a new challenge, to gain more and

now you’re thinking about another brewing position. It’s

varied experience, to build their career, or somewhere

been years since you’ve sat in a job interview, what can

they can take on more responsibility,” says Carling. “A

you do to prepare yourself for this?

move to a different brewery can also lead to better

“Do your research into the company. Think about why

training – people will often move to a new brewery often

you want the job and what you can bring to the role.

because they want to work with a particular person.

Look online for interview questions and scenarios,” says

She adds: “If the brewery is expanding, you’ll have

Carling, “Ask what the interview format is going to be so

the opportunity to work on a project. A brewery which

you are prepared on what to expect. If applying through

will support development and training, sponsorship of

a recruitment company, they will talk you through the

examinations, are all important factors in make a decision

process and help you “get your brain into the right gear”!

to change roles. A move driven solely by the quest for

Key qualifications

more money is often short-lived.”

For Carling, what are the advantages of working for a large brewer?

These can vary but often working for a larger company means working in a more structured environment.

This can mean that there will be more training and development opportunities, as well as financial support for training.

In some large breweries there are more opportunities

A

nd for for people trying to break into brewing or distilling, how important is it having university or training course qualifications?

She explains: “The brewing degrees and master

qualifications offered by Heriot Watt and Nottingham in the UK are well respected by brewing companies along

to change roles and/or location, which may mean

with a number of the brewing schools in Europe. Others

international exposure. There will often be more

come into the industry through chemical engineering and

opportunities to work on projects and to be exposed to

other science based courses, often starting working in the

modern manufacturing and management technics. There

laboratory and transferring to the brewing department.

can also be the possibility of a better benefits package, although not in all cases.

And likewise, what are the advantages of working for a small brewery?

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March 2020

“What is important is to try and gain some practical experience of working in a brewery, even if this is in holiday time. Working knowledge of being in a brewery is attractive to clients. For those candidates in work the IBD

Brewers Journal

recruitment

t r e n d ing

COMPANY CULTURE

TRAINING AND

CAREER DEVELOPMENT

DEVELOPMENT

RETENTION

REMUNERATION

COMMUNICATION

Above: Candidates' reasons for moving on

qualifications are well respected and highly sought by the

employees and keep turnover low. Communication,

clients we work with.”

engagement with and development of employees it vital.

From an employer’s perspective hiring new people is

It’s not rocket science and, in the majority of cases, simply

expensive, especially if they don’t work out. How can this

listening to employees and taking the time to engage can

cost and hassle be reduced?

make all the difference.

“Yes!” says Carling. “Employees are the greatest asset

"When an employee is handing in their notice, isn’t the

of any company and recruiting and retaining talent

time to tell them you had great plans for them – by then

should be approached in the same way as selecting a

it’s too late as someone else has great plans for them!”

new brewhouse. A complete article could be written on

Carling says: "Having mentioned the importance of

this subject. No one can guarantee a recruitment will be

retaining your team we have to accept that people will

successful but if carried out professionally the risk can

want to move on – they may wish to relocate, develop

significantly be reduced.

their career in a new direction or simply just want a new

"When planning to recruit a new member of staff a

challenge. Zero turnover is not good for business, new

process should be put in place and we suggest following

employees bring fresh ideas and often new impetuous

our recruiting guide [opposite top page]."

and drive. Looking outside of the brewing sector

Finally, why do you think most people want to move

for people can introduce new dynamics, skills and

on to different breweries and as an employer, what could I

experience that can make everyone think differently and

do to keep them?

this is, more often than not, a good thing.” u

Carling says staff retention is one of the major challenges for brewers today. Having recruited your team, you want a great workplace, to ensure you retain them.

Their knowledge of retention comes from speaking with

The Carling Partnership

thousands of candidates over the years and discussing the reasons why they join a company and why they then decide to move on from their roles and what does and doesn’t attract them to a company.

She says: “The reasons why employees leave organisations are many and varied – and, believe me, we have heard them all! However, bizarrely, it’s not unusual for employers not to know why they are losing their employees, which is surprising given how costly staff turnover can be.

Bill and Julie Carling founded The Carling Partnership in 2001 to address a need made very clear by the volume of calls being made to the International Brewer's Guild asking for suggestions for candidates for vacant posts. The company initially specialised in brewing, which were its roots. Since then, Carling has moved into other sectors.

“Companies should develop a retention plan to retain

brewersjournal.info

March 2020

31

Innovate and Invent Partizan Brewing, founded by Andy Smith, is one of the original members of the famous beer scene in Bermondsey, London. And under the leadership of head brewer Dennis Ratliff and his assistant Tom Mahoney, they’re driving the brewery through the next stage of its evolution. by tim sheahan

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March 2020

L

ondon’s brewing scene is an enthralling tapestry. It’s a hotbed of talent as diverse as the capital itself. The city boasts a rich, layered history but as importantly, a contemporary brewing sector underpinned

by innovation and expression.

Bermondsey in South-East London is arguably the

epicentre of this city's modern, so-called, craft industry.

A cross-section of breweries, along with their burgeoning taproom offerings, have helped transcend this corner of the beer scene beyond craft beer enthusiasts, aficionados

Brewers Journal

and fans, and into the world of the casual drinker.

Like a band getting too popular, some voices will

As avid home-brewer, he sought to make fresh exciting beer that was difficult to find here in the UK. A

despair at the increased popularity of their favourite

move from his home town of Leeds to London soon

haunts. Though whether these are the same as those that

presented the opportunity to work with Andy Moffat at

argue modern beer needs to move beyond the “craft beer

Redemption Brewing in Tottenham.

bubble” is probably a conversation for another day…

Partizan Brewing has been one such part of Bermondsey’s beer scene since 2012. The brewery’s

Here he studied and learned to ply his trade as a professional brewer whilst making many friends and contacts in the fast growing UK beer scene.

journey began when founder and owner Andy Smith left

Come 2012, one of these friends, Evin O'Riordain of

a career in fine dining to follow his pursuits in one of life’s

The Kernel Brewery kindly offered to pass on their original

other great pleasures.

brew kit as the Kernel embarked upon expansion, and it

brewersjournal.info

March 2020

33

m e e t

th e

b r e w e r

part i zan

wasn’t long before the brewery was born. Smith secured

brew i ng

Ratliff had a positive time working at the Bermondsey

some premises secured just down the railway line, and

business and still counts them as friends. He feels that he

Kernel and Partizan were established as neighbours.

brought some of his organisational skills to the brewery,

“We at Partizan relish diversity,” says Smith. “We delight in the cultural richness of our surroundings here in London, with its myriad ethnicities, languages and

something that now dovetails with fellow Partizan brewer Mahoney’s way of working.

“I was in the army so it comes naturally to me. It’s

traditions. A city, fuelled by passionate, creative and

a good thing, but maybe it can be a bad thing too,”

enterprising people, drawing on a wealth of strands of

he smiles. “Tom will attest to that as well. He's a very

history and identity, filled with excitement to create anew.”

deliberate thinker and sees the big picture whereas I sort

He adds: “In so many ways this involved a look to the past, to a time when people invested themselves fully in

of pick a direction and I totally charge towards it.”

Ratliff has been head brewer at Partizan since July of

hand driven pursuits, producing with pride and precision

last year. Mahoney would go on to join the team a month

the consumables that not only nourished physically, but

later.

excited the taste buds.

“The recent food and drink revolution has led to a

The latter’s journey in the world of brewing started in 2016 as an apprentice at Dorking Brewery but the seeds

wonderfully diverse international community of producers

was sown long before. A student of American Studies

who are fiercely dedicated to making things that can offer

at the University of Texas, Mahoney’s palate would

the same to the modern consumer.”

experience the joys of fresh Sierra Nevada Pale Ale

In 2020 one such producer is Dennis Ratliff, the head brewer of Partizan. Along with his assistant Tom

alongside other world-class brews.

Upon returning to the UK to complete his studies, the

Mahoney, the brewing trio, completed by founder Smith,

culinary fan looked lovingly towards the world of cheffing

are ensuring the Raymouth Road operation continues to

before taking a position at a pensions company.

evolve and transform like London itself.

“There is no better time, and no better place, to be a

“I wasn’t totally sold on the idea of pursuing the cheffing route so took the office option. It was fine, but

brewer than London at the point we’re at now,” enthuses

when I saw the Dorking Brewery position I knew I had to

Ratliff. “I truly believe that.”

take a punt,” he recalls.

Ratliff has been involved in beer for nearly 20 years.

Mahoney adds: “There is a definite crossover between

Starting out in 2001, he got a job working at Pennsylvania

being a chef and being a brewer and that very much

Brewing Company on Pittsburgh’s North Side. Roles

appealed to me. You’re working with fantastic ingredients

washing kegs and progressing through apprenticeship

and the ability to create something is incredibly attractive.”

programmes gave him invaluable experience in the trade

Mahoney went on to become senior brewer at

before his wife’s work in the chemicals industry took them

London’s excellent Five Points Brewing Company before

to Chicago and for Ratliff, a position at Emmett’s Brewing.

joining Partizan, where he and Ratliff form the main

Ratliff enjoyed a stint there before relocation was required once more and this time, London was the destination.

“We were both happy to have the opportunity to move

brewing team. Founder Smith still plays an integral role in new recipes.

“Everyone gets a say when it comes to new beers,” explains Ratliff. “Andy is involved, we’re involved, the

here and naturally, I immediately started researching the

taproom is involved and sales are involved. Let’s not

beer scene,” he recalls.

forget, sales drive brewing.”

The year was 2015 and in the height of summer. Visits

He adds: “Working with a small team is fantastic

to the Great British Beer Festival and the various events

because you get to have most impact, no matter what

organised as part of London Beer Week gave Ratliff a

your position is. You can take ownership of things and

varied insight into the wonders London had to offer for a

everybody feels like they're part of everything. Why?

fan of the aforementioned beverage.

Because they really are.”

“I had been in the world of beer for nearly 20 years and

The brewery mades its foray into canning its beers

I had never taken a note in my life!” he laughs. “But here I

in the second half of 2019. Popular new releases such

was, writing down as much as I could to help me process

as New England Pale and New England Saison have

everything. It was overwhelming, but in a good way.”

resonated with drinkers, complementing bottled releases

At that point he wasn’t looking for a job but instead, he was an American brewer fresh to London and just wanted to get the lay of the land.

“Any brewery’s beers I enjoyed I’d go on to email and ask for a chat, and that’s how I ended up at Brew By Numbers,” he says.

34

March 2020

that include Lemon and Thyme Saison, beers that helped establish Partizan in the London brewing landscape.

And its beer like this that continue to prove a hit with punters that frequent Bermondsey’s popular ‘Beer Mile’, something that continues to enamour Ratliff.

“You know, I think we're so lucky to have this. You

Brewers Journal

There is no better time, and no better place, to be a brewer than London at the point we’re at now Dennis Ratliff, Partizan Brewing

m e e t

th e

b r e w e r

part i zan

know, as much as people don't seem to like the beer mile

brew i ng

Ratliff is proud of.

term, I think it's fantastic. I love having this opportunity

“There’s no harm in going steady, he says. “I know

to try so many different beers from so many different

people talk about a bubble, and they talk about a ceiling

breweries all in one go,” he says.

but as I said there's still room for growth if we continue to

Part of its appeal, to Ratliff, remains the sense of community he feels part of.

“We're always over at Brew By Numbers borrowing

make good beer and get it into people's hands.”

Founder Smith adds: “To truly move forward and progress, it is important to be mindful of the past; this

stuff or they’re here doing the same,” he says. It’s that or

has always formed part of the Partizan ethos. We want to

we’re hanging out with the team at Affinity Brew Co and

continue to learn from our predecessors and give life and

elsewhere. It’s great and we're very, very fortunate.”

longevity to the beer they made.

Along with this idea of community, Ratliff is confident in the room for growth that exists in the craft beer sector.

“Learning is so important for development, and we believe that this comes not only through education, but

He explains: “There are challenges, of course, but

also in seeing things from another angle or through a

look to the US and see how it keeps growing. There’s no

different prism of thought. This is why we love to work

reason why we can’t continue to do that here.

with new people, to share, to guide and to be guided into

“But to achieve that, you certainly don't do it by chasing trends. That approach will only sustain you for a little

new avenues of exploration.

“Our association with other unique and spirited

while. I believe you need to stay true to who you are and

producers, artists and collaborators of all kinds has

do the best you can.”

always been fruitful and we hope to continue to grow and

Such an approach at Partizan has resulted in the

develop relationships within the industry and beyond,

brewery recently investing in a new FV to help increase

refining our process and continue to brew and share beer

capacity by around 15%, a steady increase in growth that

we love." u

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March 2020

Brewers Journal

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www.qclscientific.com/brewing

s e c to r

water

Sustainable water use in breweries Brewers are aware of the environmental challenges they face in certain areas where their operations are based and are investing in key initiatives to improve sustainability. Therefore, the time is now to start saving water and optimize your brewery, says Heleen Nieuwenhuis, marketing director for Ecolab Global Platforms Industrial Sector Europe.

Hygiene programs have been very successful at optimizing cleaning and disinfection, leveraging products that are efficacious at lower temperatures, while being biodegradable, thus having a positive impact on the wastewater. Additionally, having the best hygiene routine can save energy, water, and time, as production capacity can continue to grow, and processes are automated for increased productivity.

All water used in brewing operations, from cleaning and utilities such as boiler, cooling pasteurization, to transportation systems, is typically collected in a central wastewater treatment plant. This treatment process is essential to degrade dissolved organic material and

by HELEEN NIEUWENHUIS

I

separate the solids from the water, before discharging the cleaned water. By having lower contribution to salt levels

t is common knowledge that water is the main

and better biodegradability, less solid waste is generated

ingredient in beer, but fewer people know the key

and better wastewater quality, that eventually can be

role water plays behind the scenes in the brewing

further reused.

process. From cleaning to cooling to pasteurizing to transportation, water is found at every step of

Our mission is to ensure our customers take a holistic approach to how they use and manage water in their

the process. When the industry pledges to achieve more

operations, understanding the importance of hygienic

sustainable and environmentally friendly operations,

operations and costeffective water management.

water is one of the first resources that brewers should

We strive to increase the performance of the

learn to better manage, given the positive impact it can

manufacturing sites where we implement our solutions,

have on energy consumption and waste generation.

combining chemical services, water technology, and

Beer is composed of around 95 percent water.

digital tools to help breweries reach their ambitious water

On average, more than three hectoliters of water are

reduction targets. The key is to have a clear overview of

used to produce one hectoliter of beer. Water is used

the whole water cycle of breweries, finding innovative

in the malting process as a starting point for the beer

ways to save, recycle and reuse water, while ensuring

production; to clean the production and storage vessels,

fresh water can be shared with neighboring users in the

transportation systems, and return bottles and kegs; and

same water shed.

to increase beer shelf life through pasteurization and refrigeration.

Over the past few years, brewers have increasingly

Digital is a game changer for smarter water management in manufacturing operations. Ecolab’s 3D Trasar™, an advanced and comprehensive water

been looking for ways to reduce their average water

performance technology, combines chemistry, remote

consumption to three or less hectoliters of water per

services and sophisticated monitoring and control to

hectoliter of beer.

optimize the running and efficiency of boiler, cooling,

Water and hygiene are inextricably linked in a

membrane, pasteurizer, wastewater and cleaninginplace

brewery’s operations. With the right cleaning practices in

(CIP) applications. The result is a balanced, efficient, and

place, a brewer can control the level of microorganisms

safe utility system that saves fresh water and energy

and ensure the safety and consistent taste of the final

consumption. The result also requires less maintenance,

products for consumers.

eliminates the over or underdosing of chemicals, and

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March 2020

Brewers Journal

water

provides maximum asset protection at lower operating

s e c to r

Brewers are aware of the environmental challenges

costs. With tools like 3D Trasar™, water management

they face in certain areas where their operations are

cannot stay optional. Access to data and digital water

based and are investing in key initiatives to improve

management are key differentiators that make water

sustainability. Due to population growth, increasing global

savings targets easily and quickly achievable.

welfare, and climate change, the demand for clean water

Better water management cannot be dismissed. Water is a crucial ingredient to beer and its brewing process,

will be 40 percent higher than available supply by 2030.

In this nearfuture reality, streamlining water

and a manufacturer cannot take the risk of running out

consumption will be a must, not just to ensure sufficient

of water and threatening the production site. Historically,

water availability to carry forward their operations

breweries have been built close to their customers’

ambitions, but to have sufficient water for the needs of

residential areas, in densely populated areas like cities.

the surrounding communities. In brewer’s sustainability

This is posing strains on available resources, such

programs, water stewardship plays a central role,

as fresh water, required for the general population,

complementing action to reduce CO2 emissions, enable

agriculture and various industries. In these areas, where

smart agriculture, circular packaging, responsible

water is scarce due to climate conditions, lack of water

consumption, and waste disposal.

availability is a concern that brewers need to address.

Strong partnership and smart investment are

Water withdrawn from wells and groundwater reservoirs

key to prepare for the future needs of the brewing

may suffer from salt ingress in coastal areas, or aging

manufacturing setting. The time is now to start saving

infrastructure; water prepared from river water may suffer

water and optimize your brewery’s performance. u

from upstream pollution.

brewersjournal.info

March 2020

39

water

s e c to r

Six steps to cost-effective brewery effluent treatment There’s a number of key steps to follow if you want to achieve cost-effective brewery effluent treatment, Richard Manning, UK managing director of ENEXIO 2H Water Technologies explains.

seen enough customers react to the “customisation” words to know that it’s often equated, in some cases based on past experience, with complexity and escalating expense.

It all depends on how you, and your supplier, manage and monitor the customisation process.

Note that I use “supplier” singular and not the plural.

by RICHARD MANNING

I

In my opinion, it’s virtually impossible for a customer to stay in control, and keep costs down, while dealing with multiple suppliers.

n September 2019, The Brewers Journal published an article ‘What do Tougher Trade Effluent

2H Water Technologies operates a step-by-step process to ensure a successful project.

Consents Mean for the UK’s Brewing Industry?’ in

Obviously, our approach reflects the products and

which I discussed the implications for the brewing

services but, at its core, it reflects the standards of best

industry of the tougher trade effluent discharge

practice we believe customers should expect from any

regulations we can expect to see coming into force over the coming years.

The response from our own customers to the

effluent treatment supplier.

The approach can be condensed into six steps which, depending how, and by whom, they’re conducted

challenge of meeting tougher regulation has been

can streamline and simplify the process of achieving

interesting – and reflects what we see in the wider

an effective effluent treatment system that delivers

industry. There’s no doubt that the majority of brewers

maximum return on investment.

are committed to meeting trade effluent consents and

Analysis

fulfil their wider social and environmental responsibilities.

Despite the good intentions, they’re apprehensive because, well, it’s all so complicated and potentially expensive. And, if upgrading on-site effluent treatment facilities can be regarded as a challenge, spare a thought for breweries that have, or will be, “re-banded”.

We’re going to see a lot of smaller breweries compelled to bring effluent treatment in-house. Starting from scratch – i.e. from finding a supplier to footing the

B

efore we propose any sort of solution, we need to know more about composition of the effluent – for example, the volume and “levels” of Suspended

Solids and other contaminants plus COD (Chemical Oxygen Demand) and BOD (Biological Oxygen Demand).

I don’t want to go into too much technical detail in this

bill for plant to be designed, built, installed and, possibly,

article so suffice to say that brewing effluent responds

managed. It’s a major undertaking which, if handled

well to biological treatment. This is largely due to the

badly, could be an expensive waste of time and money.

proliferation in the effluent of biodegradable organic

I have a lot of sympathy for our brewing industry

compounds such as sugars, ethanol and soluble starch.

customers. When budget is limited and maintaining

Approach and design

productivity is of paramount importance, it’s easy to see why brewers would want a fast, easy and guaranteed solution.

The problem for brewers – in fact, for any company in any process industry – is that an effective off-the-shelf or one-size-fits all trade effluent system does not exist – and for good reason. Every brewery, every bottling plant

A

t this point, we’re ready to assess what needs to be treated, and the specific treatment targets, against the available options in our product and

service portfolio. We start with the basics, such as is

or production facility has its own unique combination of

a new build required or would an upgrade deliver the

factors which, ultimately, results in effluent that is, well,

required results? We also factor operational objectives

unique.

into our thinking – e.g. does the customer want to

The bottom line is to get the results you want, a customised effluent treatment solution is essential. I’ve

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March 2020

increase the load or want to improve the treatment process/quality to meet tighter discharge consents?

Brewers Journal

water

Then we calculate the mix, function size and weight

s e c to r

that our proposed solution will deliver the results they

of products including media needed to deliver optimum

want, we’re ready to tell them what it will cost. We

performance at every stage of the process, and meet

always provide a fully costed specification detailing the

effluent compliance standards

equipment we provide and how and why it is essential

Then, there are the practical considerations to take into

to the final application. We don’t believe suppliers

account, such as space and construction requirements.

should hide any justifiable costs, nor should they spring

And, finally, the design has to minimise energy

additional expense on our customers. So, we don’t….

requirements both in the supply, the operation and the

Design, install, monitor

maintenance.

We will also produce supporting materials including a detailed installation plan and guidelines on managing and maintaining the solution.

Pilot-test and trial

B

y now, we’ve finalised the design and know that the solution we’ve proposed will deliver on every requirement. We’re ready to install – and then

manage and monitor the solution.

T

I want to make it clear that for the approach to work, it

here’s no point in a recommending a solution

has to be cohesive with each of the fully integrated steps

that we can’t prove will work. A scaled-down

shaped with, and informed by, insights gained from an

pilot plant in which the solution is tested

investigation and analysis of the client’s current situation,

under conditions that mirror real world conditions and challenges, allows every aspect of our recommendations to be tested, and the potential results verified.

One of the many benefits of a pilot is that it’s

challenges and requirements.

So, that’s the six, simple steps. Constant evaluation is essential throughout the six step process. We believe it’s important to review performance - of our people and

conducted in isolation so doesn’t have to be

our solution –during every stage of the process. That’s no

accommodated by, or impede, day-to-day operations.

more than you should expect from any supplier.

We draw on the results of the pilot trials to

And, finally, there’s the question of budget. We’re

demonstrate the way in which the system will operate

careful to monitor and assess costs throughout a project,

and provide evidence that it will deliver the level of

not least because we know that, in the end, a truly

treatment required.

successful installation is defined by maximum return on

Once we’ve proved to the customer’s satisfaction

brewersjournal.info

investment. u

March 2020

41

b r e w e ry

to u r

wales

Welsh wonders

Beer is no-longer for ‘beer drinkers’, with customers becoming as diverse as the breweries themselves, explains Clodagh Sherrard on behalf of the Welsh Drinks Cluster’s Beer and Cider Group

by Clodagh Sherrard

S

etting aside the blatant sexism, the concept

discover a love for ales and beers of every description, does the concept of a female brewer seem less likely?

Many in the industry might say that industry stereotypes bear no relations to the reality of the modern brewing industry. To explore this issue, we talk to four leading female experts from the growing Welsh beer industry, to see how common perceptions compare the real-world experiences.

For Pam Honeyman, founder, director and head

that “beer is a man’s drink” is factually

brewer at Monty’s Brewery in Montgomery, gender

incorrect. The fact is that women have not

is irrelevant when it comes to keeping ahead of the

only been enjoying beer for as long as men,

competition.

originally brewing was a female driven

occupation.

So, the question today is why, in a time where the

42

recent craft beer renaissance has seen new generations

March 2020

“When we started out in 2009, we were the 27th brewery in Wales, fast forward to 2020 and now there’s well over 100 breweries offering so many different beers,

Brewers Journal

wales

b r e w e ry

to u r

“

It’s a lot of fun to challenge the stereotypes and break them down Pam Honeyman, Monty’s Brewery

she says. “And that’s just in Wales, let alone the rest of the

for trends, and our gluten free range was part of that

UK.

process, I always aim to brew beers you’ll want another

“The competition is fiercer than it ever has been, meaning you’ve got to make a premium product that packs a punch and leaves people wanting more. I feel like that is what we’ve got here at Monty’s.”

Honeyman’s decision to found Monty’s came after she completed a brewing course in 2008. She knew that there was a growing demand in the area for local real ales and wondered if her love of cooking would be transferable.

Fast forward a decade and Monty’s have created a

pint of. I would describe our beer as traditional, but with a modern twist.

“Our multi-award-winning golden ale, Sunshine, is packed with floral and citrus aromas and is our most popular signature brew and was a Finalist Champion Beer of Britain in 2019.

“I get quite frustrated around these supposed gender roles within the industry, I would say it’s less about gender now and more about the quality of your product – that is

range of beers that has seen Monty’s become an integral

what’s important. If you haven’t got a premium product

part of its community. And, when it comes to making

then it’s a tough market to stay in.

beer, it’s the quality of the product, not the gender of the brewer that customers care about.

She continues: “I do experiment with our beers looking

brewersjournal.info

"Yes, of course I am in the minority as a woman and also a head brewer, there are just more men in this industry, but if anything it’s a lot of fun to challenge the

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At the end of the day, we’re brewers and enjoying our high-quality beers is what our customers care about Becky Morrison, Tomos Watkin Brewery

stereotypes and break them down.”

Brewing has been part of Wales’ rich history and

culture since the time of the druids where breweries were founded to meet the demands of the industrial revolution,

to share their ideas, talk about beer and respond to the industry.”

Balancing innovation, while staying true to the products your customers love, is a fine line to tread. At Tomos Watkin the key is listening to customers, however they wish to be heard.

She continues: “Tomos Watkin is a traditional brand with a loyal customer base, but we’re not afraid to collaborate and develop new beers that keep us relevant.

We have new and seasonal cask beers released each month.

“One of our most recent collaborations is with Afan Coffee, a local speciality roaster, where we produced a vegan-friendly Espresso Stout. None of our beers are developed specifically with men or women in mind, instead we focus on developing high-quality products for those who appreciate good beer.”

It’s easy to think that the task of making an exceptional

when beer was cleaner than water. The rise of modern

ale is the sole responsibility of the brewer, but the fact is

Welsh brewing can be seen across the nation, with new

that it’s a team effort to keep a brewery’s lights on and the

craft breweries joining already established producers

barrels moving. At Grey Trees Brewery in Aberdare, much

all over the Principality. However, many established

of that work falls to co-director, Tracey Kerslake-Davies.

breweries are finding new audiences through social

“Grey Trees Brewery was created from the passion my

media by allowing them to hear what customers are

husband had for brewing, but with my help we’ve turned

asking for and provide new products to that meet the

a start-up micro-brewery into a credible and sustainable

demand.

business. So, while I may not brew the product, I ensure

Becky Morrison grew up in the beer industry. Today, she works alongside her family as the marketing and

that we still have a brewery to run,” she says.

Like all passionate craftspeople, Tracey’s team say

e-commerce manager at Swansea-based Tomos Watkin

they focus on making good products that speak for

Brewery.

themselves and should be enjoyed by all.

Morrison says: “There is always some surprise by men

Kerslake-Davies adds: “As independent craft brewers,

and women alike that Tomos Watkin is run by a mother,

I’d say we like to challenge ourselves to make new

daughter and auntie team. While I would say it is a

exciting beers and ales but ensuring that we stick to

pleasant surprise, you can’t deny the general assumption

the traditions of brewing. I’ve never really felt like we’ve

that the chief executive of a brewery is going to be male.

needed to market our beer specifically to women – we

I don’t think that’s specifically because we make beer, it is

always made the assumption that our beer would be

the same across many industries.

enjoyed by both genders. One of our favoured ales is the

“We’ve just got to be part of the driving force to change the stereotypes and push the boundaries. At the end of the day, we’re brewers and enjoying our highquality beers is what our customers care about.”

As the brewery’s marketing manager, Becky says that

Afghan Pale Ale which has a sort of tropical aroma, and it won Silver Supreme Champion of Britain 2019.

“Our focus was more about distinguishing our beer apart from the other products on the market rather than appealing to one gender or another. Our packaging

her job is about listening to her customers as much as it is

reflects that, being black and white, it’s quite neutral in

to tell them about Tomos Watkin’s products. She believes

colour as well as design.”

that social media is allowing more people to voice their

Emma Lockett, brewery manager at Porthmadog’s

opinions on the products available and crucially, what

Purple Moose Brewery is part of a team that has been

they want from brands.

securing regional, national and international awards for

“Women have always drunk beer. It would be terribly

over a decade. In her opinion, consistent quality products

narrow-minded to think or say that women didn’t, don’t or

are driving the rise of the beer industry in Wales industry

won’t drink beer,” says Morrison. “I think what has changed

above anything else.

is the way women engage with beer – from a social

“There’s no denying that the industry is still male

media point of view, I see and engage with so many more

orientated, but there are many more women involved in

women who are reviewing or reacting to our beers. Social

brewing and the industry as a whole than many would

media has given a solid platform for women (and men)

assume,” says Lockett. “Personally, I’d still like to see a

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Below left: Team Tomos Watkin, from left to right Connie Parry, Becky Morrison, Clare Parry

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The true catalyst for change is the younger generation Emma Lockett, Purple Moose Brewery

shift to a better gendered balance, but our sector is not exclusive by any means. Opportunities exist whatever your gender. At the end of the day, if you have the interest and the passion, then you need to just go for it.”

According to Lockett the changes that have led to the

growth of Welsh brewing and brewing across the UK in general are the result of people becoming aware and interested in exploring quality beers.

Lockett explains: “I don’t think an increase in female

drinkers has much do to with the changes we’re seeing in Wales and across the UK. In fact, there has always been

Emma Lockett of Purple Moose Brewery

a high level of interest in beer from women. The true catalyst for change is the younger generation.

“Across the board, people have changed their drinking habits, they are more aware of what they are consuming, so they choose higher quality beers over mass produced products that were the only option not so long ago.

“We have a beer for whatever kind of drinker you are.

Our signature brew is our Snowdonia Ale, it’s a fine golden ale that is refreshing and full flavour making it wonderfully drinkable and popular with traditionalists. But, for those looking for a more adventurous craft beer, we launched options like Chocolate Moose, Mwsh (a Kolsch-style lager) and Antlered IPA. It’s unlikely we’d ever create a beer with either men or women in mind, they’re just made for people who like good beer.”

If one thing is clear, it’s that quality beer speaks for itself. Sometimes stereotypes exist in the minds of those outside an industry simply because customers focus on beer that they like, at most they register the name of the brewery itself. But, we live in a time where perceptions of beer are changing at large.

Beer is no-longer for ‘beer drinkers’, with customers becoming as diverse as the breweries themselves.

Nowhere is this truer than Wales, where concerted effort is being made to promote Welsh breweries to customers and on-trade alike. Welsh Beer Week runs from Sunday 8th March to Saturday 14th March and will see pubs across the country prominently featuring ales and beer made by Welsh brewers. u

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Hit high standards in hygiene Meeting the highest standards of hygiene in brewing is essential and a greater understanding of microbiology aids this relationship for all concerned, explains Chris Bayliss, national sales manager at Christeyns Food Hygiene, and Northern & Scottish Section chairman of the Brewing, Food & Beverage Industry Suppliers' Association (BFBi)

In 2018, consumers spent ÂŁ5.6 billion on beer in the United Kingdom and beer remains the most popular choice when drinking alcohol in the UK, accounting for over a third of all alcohol being consumed. All this points to the fact that beer plays a major part in the lives of many of us, be that as a consumer or as an industry employee, or both.

Due to the surge in the number of breweries and the amount of beer being consumed, increased legislation has been put in place in the UK to maintain consumer confidence in the industry. In June 2015 SALSA (Safe

by Chris Bayliss

and Local Supplier Approval) launched its plus Beer Audit which provides small breweries and bottlers

T

across the UK with a dedicated standard to follow that

and other ingredients that lead to a great drink, but also

Firms are audited annually to ensure continued

the production process and faultless hygiene routine that

compliance. In all situations, prevention is always better

impacts on the final taste.

than cure.

he increase in craft brewing and the interest

gives confidence to customers and retailers, and more

this has generated for beer in general, has

importantly, keeps quality standards high.

put pressure on breweries to go the extra

Certification is only granted to suppliers who are

mile to create products that incorporate

able to demonstrate to an auditor that they are able to

unique flavours as they strive to produce

produce safe and legal beverages and are committed

the perfect brew. It is not, however, just the hops, yeast

to continually meeting the requirements of the standard.

Hygiene is fundamental to the brewing process, get

There are also HACCP, (Hazard Analysis and Critical

this wrong and you’re on the road to ruin. It pays for

Control Points), requirements for beer production

craft brewers to invest time learning the key aspects of

whereby the Environmental Health Department requires

cleaning before they even think of producing a drop of

that brewers have a plan that covers microbiological,

product. In all breweries, hygiene training should form a

physical and chemical food hazards throughout the

major element of any induction.

brewing process.

Statista, a leading provider of market and consumer

We should not forget that the brewing process

data, published data in November 2019 stating that in

involves microbiological activity at every stage, from

2017, the average person in the UK consumed 122 pints

raw material production and malting to stability in the

of beer per year, with approximately 40 million hectolitres

package, live organisms are present. Although most

of beer produced in the UK that year. Between 2000-2017

of this activity is arrested by boiling during the brewing

the total number of breweries in UK rose to almost 2,500.

process, any contaminants introduced after boiling can

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Magic Rock prides itself on its excellence and consistency

pose a threat in terms of aroma, flavour and consistency

to tackle individual issues, this additional microbiological

so hygiene of the production plant and packaging

background information will help add depth and

areas must be carefully and consistently controlled and

understanding to the hygiene systems and protocols we

managed.

recommend.

Adopting the correct hygiene methods at every stage

“We have to understand that many brewers are dealing

of the process is therefore crucial to prevent unwanted

with ‘live’ beers which need to be properly managed,”

contamination. We can only effectively disinfect a clean

remarks Marilyn. “As an example, in canned craft beers,

smooth surface, so we need to use the correct product

where there is no pasteurisation, the wrong yeast or

formulation to make sure there is no build-up of scale. If

bacteria being present and growing, can cause the

any scale is allowed to develop, this provides safe havens

beer in the can to spoil or even explode. Where beers

for microorganisms to reside and go on to contaminate

are packaged bright and pasteurised, the packaging

the next brew. Deposition of scale also provides areas

process must be very clean and hygienically maintained,

where other forms of soiling may start to deposit.

otherwise spoilage can occur over time, damaging a

In order to ensure our staff are fully up to date on all the issues regarding potential threats in the brewing sector, we have recently teamed up with microbiologist

brand reputation. As with all products, customers will always be lost when they have a bad experience.”

Marilyn continues: “Using the wrong chemicals in the

Marilyn Seedhouse who specialises in the brewing

wrong place in the cleaning process can be extremely

industry and currently carries out SALSA audits.

dangerous. If this occurs, heat exchanger plates and

Marilyn is providing formal training for our team

the fabric of delicate brewing plant can be damaged.

so that we can better inform our customers on the

For example, Ethylene glycol, which is used in a lot of

dangers. As we work on a personal, face to face basis

breweries as a coolant for chilling parts of the process,

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M i crob i ology

could contaminate the beer if heat exchangers are

have a bad pint! With all the diversity in today’s brewing

damaged by the use of the wrong detergents. As

industry, it is even more important to make sure the

ethylene glycol is a substance that is deleterious to

hygiene is right.”

health, it is very important that everyone understands

The brewing industry in the UK is currently in a great

just how crucial a part of the brewing process cleaning

place. New and exciting flavours are being developed

actually is.”

and the market has become much more sophisticated. It

Microbiological control is bound by set rules

is not only beer and cider that is seeing growth but new

and regulations, in place to prevent and eliminate

brews such as the health drink kombucha and other non-

contaminating microorganisms so that the quality of the

alcoholic brews are growing in interest.

beer can be protected. Constant hygiene control will

CFH work with a range of breweries across the UK and

detect spoilage microorganisms as soon as possible, and

Ireland, both large and small, one of which is the Magic

by using optimised and efficient cleaning procedures this

Rock Brewery. Based in Huddersfield, West Yorkshire,

process can be made as economic as possible.

Magic Rock was set up in 2011 by Richard Burhouse and

Beer spoilage microorganisms such as lactic acid and

after a fantastic first six months went on to being voted

acetic acid bacteria, enterobacteriaceae and wild yeasts

2nd best new brewery in the world 2012 and 5 times a

can be present on all types of surfaces in the brewing

top 100 world brewer since, on the independent ratings

process and microbiological analysis will highlight any

site RateBeer.com. Since then production has more than

contamination. The correct steps can then be taken to

tripled to 2.7 million pints that are sold in 25 countries

eradicate any issues.

worldwide.

If the hygiene regimes employed are below standard,

“Magic Rock prides itself on its excellence and

then this will have bearing on product quality as well

consistency and we needed a chemical supplier to equal

as on the bottom line. Methodology is crucial here

our own high standards – CFH are that company’ states

and that affects both time taken to clean, amount of

head brewer Stuart Ross. “From the very start of our

water and energy used, as well as the quantity and

journey they have provided us with the right products

type of chemicals and detergents. A combination of

to aid the commissioning process right through to our

methodology and chemistry is required to best tackle

daily cleans. Their work has been a major factor in

these issues and brewers need to understand how

the continuous improvements during our expansion

the chemistry works and the methods to use that will

development as cleaning and disinfection are a

generate optimum results.

fundamental part of our process.”

Passionate about her work, Marilyn notes: “it is

In conclusion, whatever the brew and on whatever

important to get through to people and make the industry

scale it is produced, consistently high standards of

a better place. I have made a living out of the beer

hygiene are crucial to keeping not only individual

industry for over 50 years and I wouldn’t want anyone to

breweries on top form, but the industry as a whole.

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Brewers Journal

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Keeping risks down in village breweries Balanced. Just like nobody goes into Space for the food, nobody goes into the beer industry with the idea of creating a balanced business as your goal. You do it for the love of beer, for the adventure, the fun – but balanced? That said, when your brewery has been around for 34-years and has seen some real highs and some real lows, being balanced like a Zen master is something good to have achieved. Velo Mitrovich reports from Nethergate Brewery

In looking at the numerous strengths of award-winning Nethergate Brewery in Rodbridge Corner, giving its customers exactly what they want is exactly why the brewery is thriving today after several very rocky periods involving everything from changing owners, names, moving locations, to going into receivership.

Where is Rodbridge Corner? Trust TBJ on this, Rodbridge Corner is not the sort of place that your car’s satnav jumps right on. Located in East Anglia’s Long Melford – just a rooster step north of Sudbury – if you draw a line on a map between Ipswich and Cambridge, it is close to the middle. Even in the dead of winter, the afternoon sun makes this area look stunning and you can see the reason for all the hiking paths, one which goes right past Nethergate.

by velo mitrovich

If you listen into pub conversations –tourists get a short mention more than once – and talk to pub staff, it

F

takes about one second to realise this is a conservative

rom the Escondido hills of San Diego, to

part of the UK and is reflected in the beer and spirits that

outback Broome, Australia, when brewers get

locals drink. What flies as an interesting sour in London,

together and ask each other what they brew,

Somerset and the Republic of Brighton, would be poured

they all take a quick look at the tattoo on their

down the drain in Rodbridge Corner as beer gone bad.

left forearm for a reminder in black ink and

Even though the area’s economy is very much boosted

reply: “I brew only what I like to drink.” High fives are then

by tourism, even though Nethergate has a long history in

given, soul handshakes exchanged, and maybe even a

the greater area, and even though most villages would

couple of “Right on brother/sister.”

sell the mayor’s gold chain to get a modern craft brewery

And while this exchange is going on, a couple of quick nervous glances are given to that other group of brewers on the other side of the room. You know, the brewers

in their patch, there was still some opposition when Nethergate moved to its current location (a former car lot).

Despite the current brewery being located well before

that have gone out of business. Why did they go bust?

you enter Rodbridge-proper and its antique centre and

Because these are the brewers who actually lived up to

half-dozen tea and cake shops, and despite having

that motto.

wide, wide open farmers’ fields running parallel along

Somewhere in the middle of the room are the brewers

the brewery’s entire west and south sides, there were

from Nethergate. Having been on both sides of that room,

questions regarding traffic and potential noise from music

the biggest lesson they’ve learned in those 34-years is

during planning meetings in October 2016.

you have to rethink the philosophy of “I know best” and

In defence, however, of the majority of the community,

instead take on “I know best because I listen.” If you’re in

local government officials from Long Melford and

a small village or town, or in a city with competition out

Sudbury listened to the community and latched onto the

the ying-yang, or have the worse distributor known to

idea, throwing their support behind the brewery’s new

mankind, you cannot afford to make creative beers for the

location – which is actually close to its original location

few, but need to think of the majority of your customers

in Clare. (If you’ve been around for the length of time as

and how you’re going to keep them.

Nethergate has, your history gets a bit complicated).

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Above: The famous Nethergate dog, Old Growler. Right: General manager Robert Crawford (L) and head brewer Ian Carson.

History 101

A

ccording to head brewer Ian Carson, the brewery originally started with Ian Hornsey and Dick Burge drinking in a local pub, who figured they could

make a better beer. With Burge being involved in finance and Hornsey a microbiologist, they were more than capable of making this idea come alive. The name came the road the brewery was first located on in the small village of Clare.

“They started making what we have now call Suffolk County ale – called Nethergate Best Bitter back then.

They brewed for a couple of years, added a couple

including London.

JDO Brand Design’s rebrand paper is still online for Nethergate/Growler and makes for interesting reading.

The new team was much more ambitious and driven

more beers to the to the range, and just kept growing,”

than the Burge and Hornsey and wanted to drive the

says Carson. “The two decided in 2005 to move to new

brand nationally. With JDO, they laid out very clear goals.

premises in Pentlow, which is about three miles away

These included:

where we are now.”

Keeping the range of beers low, Nethergate grew from

u Winning 10% new customers within six months; u Securing a prestigious retail account – for the

strength to strength. But, with Burge wanting to retire,

business impact as well as the kudos

Nethergate was sold in 2010 to a consortium, including

u Increasing market share in established territories by

three ex-Adnams employees, who moved the brewery

at least 15%

across the border from Suffolk into north Essex.

u Increasing core portfolio beer sales by 20%

For the first two years the brewery did extremely well,

The brewery either met or exceeded all the goals

winning the Good Pub Guide ‘Brewery of the Year’ title in

that the rebranding plan laid out. Profitability rose by 32

2012 and other awards.

percent, turnover saw a 37 percent increase, and they

In 2012 the brewery underwent a major rebrand and changed the name of the brewery to ‘Growler’ after one of its beers, several core beers were dropped, others added, and it was decided to expand into other markets,

brewersjournal.info

brought in four new retail customers; Tesco, Waitrose, Sainsbury’s, and Co-op.

And then…and then…and then in 2014, Growler Brewery went into receivership.

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viable business, rather than just trying to sell it

What happened?

O

everywhere and anywhere.”

Nethergate trio

ne London bottle shop owner, who used to stock Nethergate/Growler beers, tells TBJ that the brewery was trying to expand into already

saturated markets. They were also a brand of beer that you did not noticed was no longer being distributed until years after the fact.

Another view is that the new management team was so concerned about gaining new markets, that they ignored the old, which is where the brewery had its strength and traditions.

From a practical viewpoint, an advantage all London craft breweries had over Nethergate/Growler was not

W

ith a staff of 15, plus part-time taproom help, you hate to single out anyone for kudos, but it is hard to see Nethergate being in the

position it is today without general manager Crawford, head brewer Carson, and, most importantly, its investor team that brought it back from near-death.

What is interesting that in the big scheme of things, the first two at initial glance are not who you picture in their positions at Nethergate.

Carson, former assistant brewer at Hogs Back Brewery,

having to drive anywhere from two to three hours to make

has spent the majority of his career at Nethergate/

deliveries. Considering the vast amount of craft breweries

Growler, working up to head brewer. His training has

in London, all doing something similar, all with very tight

consisted solely of on-the-job, and you have to think

margins, not having shipping costs is enough to make a

he’s had a brilliant mentor or two, such as former head

difference in surviving.

brewers Tom Knox and Paul Gower.

At a fire-sale price of £60,000, the brewery was

In addition, for a six-month period at Nethergate, the

sold to a consortium, led by founder Dick Burge, which

soft-spoken Carson was with beer sales. In dealing with

purchased the brewery in April 2014. One of the first

customers, listening to what they want in a beer and what

acts was to restore the name back to Nethergate and to

actually sells was just as important in his overall beer

refocus selling beer to local free houses. Burge told a

brewing training.

local paper at the time: “It feels like a homecoming, in a

Crawford is an accountant and spent his first eight

way. I’ve always felt emotionally involved in Nethergate as

years in public practice, far away from beer except what

a brand, and I did not want to see it die.”

he was served at a pub. He started during the waning

As general manager Robert (Rob) Crawford says: “Today we're trying to make our business a financially

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days of Growler and has been with Nethergate ever since, working his way up to his current position.

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In looking at various companies ranking from breweries to beef jerky, putting an accountant in charge has often been the kiss of death, with too much emphasis

The Beer

on bottom-line and not on quality.

This is far from the case at Nethergate, according to Carson, and he is at a loss trying to remember anytime that Crawford shot down at idea for new equipment and beer launches.

“We have shareholders who I have to report to. And

As mentioned in the beginning of this article, Nethergate is located in a traditional area and this is reflected in the beers it produces. American-style sours and milk shake stouts would never work.

these guys are good businessman, and then they want a good business,” says Crawford. “We have the creativity of a decent head brewer, who has some lovely creative ideas. And I think you need that creativity within brewing because not all businesses run by accountants are the most creative – we're known for being a bit more prudent in our approach. So the balance of a creative mind and someone keeping close watch on the purse strings means that we've got a really nice balanced business.”

Nethergate would have not come back from the dead

Generally, almost all of Nethergate beers are less than 5% ABV, with most in the standard session range of 3.5 to 4% ABV. Head brewer Ian Carson creates flavours pretty much strictly with hop and barely combinations. Perhaps Carson’s wildest beer is Umbel Magna, a 5% ABV porter that is a recreation of a 1750s porter with coriander.

with a core group of investors, but alongside them are also small investors who helped to fund the move to Nethergate’s current site.

These investors came from Nethergate’s membership

Four core beers are always available, along with three regulars. Each month has its own seasonal creations.

scheme for £40, gives you a membership card entitling you to 10 percent off all products in the shop and tap room, a branded polo shirt, a brewery tour for you and a friend, and exclusive members’ nights.

“When we were we're funding the purchase of this site,

Carson brews on average three times a week throughout the year, with Nethergate at its capacity limit of 5,000 hectolitres a year.

we offered out to these members to see if they wants to become smaller investors, a bit like the bigger guys of Brewdog did to try and gain finance,” says Crawford. “So

For the time being, bottling and canning are done off-premises.

we have in the region of 200 smaller shareholders who helped support us.”

While Crawford has a different relationship with the investors that with the shareholders, the two groups have

between two little villages, Long Melford and Rodbridge

something very much in common.

Corner, where we figured we get lots of people driving

“They love being part of the brewery; they love this

pass the brewery. So we wanted easy parking so people

little brewery. It's one of those industries, which has a

could come, stop, and take beer away with them or come

passion around it, which is beyond the actual business

in, have a pint, and take some way when they go.”

itself – there's a lot of people that just love being part of a brewery.”

A problem, too, the brewery was seeing – and still sees – is the varying serving quality of its beer. Indeed, in looking at reviews of Nethergate’s beer, the only negative

Creating a destination

ones regarding beer quality come from pubs, not from the brewery’s taproom or bottled beer.

W

“It's quite frustrating as a brewer that you can't always

hen Nethergate moved into its new facilities

control the quality cask ale is, relying on the landlord to

in 2017, it just didn’t want to have a brewery,

look after it and serve it in the best way possible,” says

but it also wanted to have a place that people

Carson. “The pressures on landlords to supply a wider

would use for a destination.

“When we were down tucked away in Pentlow, we

range of ales means they sometimes keep their product on far too long, which means that the quality suffers over

really didn't have many people knowing where we

time. We have the luxury that we produce our beer here,

were – you could get a mile down the road and no one

we can control that quality, which means that there's no

really knew how to navigate where we were located,”

variables.”

says Crawford. “With this location, we situated ourselves

brewersjournal.info

By putting in a taproom in the new facility, Nethergate

March 2020

55

B r e w e ry

To u r

N ethergate

Above left: Like all breweries, cleaning in non-stop Above right: AR Engineering mill and blower. Both Carson and Crawford say it makes work much easier.

B rewery

normally only comes on Friday evenings.

“It’s quite popular. People come down and have a have a beer and mac an' cheese and stay and have an enjoyable evening. As it is, the mac-truck is a low

could control the quality of the beer served and people

hassle way for us to provide food,” says Crawford. “We

would get to know what fresh Nethergate beer should

do struggle at the weekends to find a food truck that will

taste like.

come at the weekends because generally the weekends

“To be honest, the tap room has been fundamental to what we've done over the last five years. We were never sure quite how people were going to use it when we set this tap room up, but it's exceeded our expectations.”

they go to larger events where they can guarantee trade and things like that.”

“Providing people with food on weekends is something we'd like to do and we may look to be doing it ourselves

When you enter the shop/tap room, you first pass

in the in the next couple of years. We have a bit of food

bottled beer for sale, some merchandise, and some local

like scotch eggs, pork pies, and sausage rolls but that

bottled gins and wines. There are then some small tables,

doesn't always cut it on a Saturday afternoon. So, we are

along with typical pub stools, next to the taps. There is

looking at other options.”

then a large covered heated area with comfortable, dog-

When asked about the brewery having its own

friendly couches. Going outside are picnic benches and a

restaurant, Crawford gives a look which says a lot and

view of a big sky over farmers’ fields.

says: “We’re brewers, we brew beer.”

“We wanted to create a place where people can come and enjoy beer. We only have our beers on tap, but we

In other words, no.

Three 'experiences' for beer fans can be purchased

have like a range of six or seven beers – sometimes eight

at the brewery. The first is a brewery tour, which includes

or nine depending on the time of year – and the beers

samples. The second it a beer day in which you spend the

we've got available,” says Crawford. “We're not like a pub,

entire day with the brewer, in which you help make beer.

we don't sell a vast array of gins, wines, and all that. We

Included with the price are 18 pints of beer which you

can offer a glass of wine or a gin and tonic, but it's mainly

have brewed – to be collected later. The last is a Brew

focuses about the beer.”

Your Own Beer experience where you design and create

There is no much on offer when it comes to food. A gourmet macaroni cheese food truck is a draw, but it

56

March 2020

a recipe with Nethergate. The end result is 144 pints of finished beer.

Brewers Journal

N ethergate

B rewery

B r e w e ry

To u r

According to Crawford, all are popular, especially the day spent shadowing the brewer.

While the area where Nethergate is located is lovely, being in a fairly rural location comes with its own challenges, with the biggest one being there are few people within an easy walk. With drink laws getting tougher and putting more pressure on people not to drink and drive, village pubs and breweries are suffering.

“All we can do is just be the best that can be and to try to be better than the others,” says Crawford.

The balanced plan

I

f you’ve ever been with a company that’s gone into receivership, it’s not a pleasant experience, and it stays with you for a long time.

Due to many factors, ranging from not enough hours in

a day with too small of staff, to just general incompetence, many craft breweries seem to fly by the seat of their pants. It’s no surprise that a number close every year.

With Nethergate/Growler, they’ve experienced the full gambit from a phoenix’s view: Birth, growth, death, ashes, and rebirth.

“Of course, we always have a plan of where we want to drive the business. If you don't have focus and a plan, you're taking a scattergun approach and you can't focus on the running an effective business. You've got to have an idea of where you want to sell your beer, what you want to be, and who you want to be before you can create a business,” says Crawford.

“It was a number of years ago, but we, we've changed this business from where it was to where it is now. But we've gone back to our roots because when we started out in Claire, we were a little brewery in a little village where everyone knew the beer.

“Everyone came in on an evening and had a drink with the brewer. You can do that now. Last night I came down and in sitting there with a number of regulars having a drink and having a chat over one of our beers, and you can still do that now. So while the business has changed, we're still back to our roots of where we started out back in Claire, where everyone loved us.

“We're going to continue progressing what we're doing, where we've got a solid stable base of what we're doing now. We're creating some really good beers. Our Venture was created just over a year ago; it’s a 3.7% ABV amber and that's sailing away. It's one of our bestselling beers now.

“So we're creating some good products. We're driving our online presence and our physical destination here.

We've got the tap room, and we're focusing on our local trade, supporting our local pubs, and trying to give them the best quality product we can do,” says Crawford.

brewersjournal.info

March 2020

57

c r o s s ing

c o ntin e nt s

ph i ladelph i a

Go big or go home When Philadelphia’s Yard Brewing Company took the decision to undertake the most significant expansion in its twenty-plus years in business, it had a number of goalposts it wanted to move.

So it turned to Germany’s Ziemann Holvrieka and partnered on the project of a lifetime.

One giant leap

T

his level of impressive growth signalled the need for yet another move, one that would enable the business to invest in a canning line and also boost

capacity.

In 2017 the duo identified the ideal site, located at on Philadelphia’s Spring Garden St, one that would offer up 70,000 square feet of space. The business plan plotted

by tim sheahan

that the new facility would give them an annual output of

Y

about 100,000bbl and be extended to more 200,000 bbl.

grown to 800bbl and the brewery moved for the first time.

output volume is 100bbl per brew with an original extract

The new facility gave them the opportunity to bottle their

content of 15.5° Plato. The brewhouse was equipped with

beer and until this time, Yards had delivered all the beer

the innovative mash agitator Colibri as well as two Lotus

in barrels.

lauter tuns with diameters of 7.5 feet and 15 feet.

ards Brewing Company has come a

The estimated cost for the completion of the new

long way since starting out back in 1994.

brewery came in at about $24m. Around $8m of this was

Founded by two keen homebrewers, Tom

set aside for building and construction while the other

Kehoe and Jon Bovit, the business began

$16m was required for plant technology and equipment.

its journey with a garage-sized 3.5bbl

brewhouse.

Come the start of 1997, Yards’ output had already

These beers, steeped in English tradition, helped

The order placed with Ziemann Holvrieka included one complete brewing line including malt handling. The brewhouse is designed for twelve brews per day. The

With this dual solution, Yards Brewing Company can

continue to catalyse growth at the business but come

effectively produce brews of less than 20 barrels or can

1999 Bovit departed the company. Since then, Kehoe has

even lauter brews with a high extract content.

been president and brewmaster of the Yards Brewing

For this reason, an external boiler was installed, which

Company as well as the brewery’s face and driving

is ideally suited for small batches. Another specialty of the

force. By 2001, the brewery reached its maximum output

brewhouse is the fully automatic dosing system for cone

capacity with 2,100bbl so a relocation to the old Weisbrod

hops. In addition, Yards ordered six cylindro-conical 650-

& Hess Brewery was in order.

bbl tanks including dome covers and catwalk system.

Fast-forward to 2007 and Yards brewed about 10,000bbl per year. This constant growth resulted in Kehoe bringing on board new partners in the form

“The visit of several reference breweries was very important for the choice of our brewing line”, says Kehoe.

His aim was for a brewery plant that offers the

of Trevor Prichett and Ethos Holdings. A period of

highest possible flexibility in addition to maximum wort

modernisation and expansion followed. In 2016 alone,

quality. This required an individual solution that was best

around 41,300bbl were produced and sold with roughly

implemented by Ziemann Holvrieka.

90 percent of the brewery’s beers distributed in Pennsylvania, New Jersey and Delaware.

58

March 2020

“The solutions of the competitors were much more standardized. Compared to an industrial brewhouse, there

Brewers Journal

c r o s s ing

c o ntin e nt s

ph i ladelph i a

were no compromises regarding the installed functional components such as pumps or valves”, he adds.

The planning and monitoring of the assembly as well

A gastronomic recommendation for all residents and visitors of Philadelphia as well as an architectural highlight and eye-catcher. While sitting in the taproom, the guests

as the automation were handled by Ziemann Holvrieka.

can look through large glass panes on the entire brewing

To simplify the assembly, all brewing vessels were pre-

process, from the brewhouse up to the canning line.

assembled on a base frame in Germany, with integrated

Separated from the main dining room by a roll-up door

internal piping and already mounted valves. On the

is an outdoor area, where guests and visitors can have a

construction site, the individual modules were only

seat below the fermentation and storage tanks. For this

connected with each other.

purpose, the stainless steel tanks were designed with

The Yards team produced the first brew in the new

high skirts.

brewhouse in March 2018 and until June 2018, the existing

Kehoe concludes that his motivation to continue

production facility was still operated for flavour matching.

investing money and passion into Yards was to have a

Since then, Yards has been brewing exclusively at the

business synonymous with the name of Philadelphia.

new location in downtown Philadelphia. Central to the new brewery was the taproom experience.

60

March 2020

“It’s about working hard, having a good time and giving something back to society”, he says. u

Brewers Journal

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beer

styles

s c i e n c e

The Name Game While customers still purchase beers using styles as a guide to their preference, they are also increasingly responsive to ingredients, broad flavour descriptions and brand image. With a wealth of diversification in the UK craft beer sector, perhaps being out of style guidelines is still a style itself, explains Dr Keith Thomas, founder of Brewlab, a leading provider of brewing courses, training & analysis services. by dr keith thomas

One major reason though is acclaim. Acclaim from an industry award in beer judging competitions, CAMRA and SIBA in the UK, the Brewers’ Association in the USA and many others internationally. Sporting a badge of honour has strong sales potential so competitions are rarely short on entries.

Another reason is to guide your drinkers. Stating a style provides recognition in the forest of beers available to drinkers allowing preference to be guided to your brand.

In a more remote sense styles also guide recipes, at least when you start your brewing experience. They at least provide suggestions of the balance of ingredients to produce acceptable beer flavour character.

In 2006, in response to questions on style characteristics at Brewlab we analysed the features of

W

beers submitted for routine analysis to determine the

being out of style is still a style.

conformed to commonly known definitions covering 12

hy do we bother with beer

general features of common styles. In effect to answer

styles? So many beers today

the question “can we specify style characteristics from

are such a mixture of ingredients

the beers in trade?” To do this we collated the analysis

and character they can’t really

of 453 beers and conducted not only a definition of each

fit any style except perhaps

style but an indication of how these styles related to each

miscellaneous. In fact, CAMRA and SIBA recognise speciality categories in their style listings so perhaps

brewersjournal.info

other.

As, perhaps expected, the majority of beers

March 2020

63

s c i e n c e

beer

styles

Above: Figure 1. Cluster analysis of beer styles 2006.

Heat map colour indicates intensity of each parameter.

colour and alcohol strength were most strongly

Below: Figure 2. Colour and bitterness profiles 1995 – 2000.

containing the bitters and IPAs, another the milds, porters

correlated to style.

The beers clustered into three clear groups, one and stouts and a third the Scotch, old and winter ales, brown ales and barley wines as shown in Figure 1.

While this analysis provided some guidance for competition definitions two additional analyses addressed questions regarding segmentation of the industry between traditional and new found breweries and changes over time. A comparison between beer character from traditional and newly established breweries indicated no significant difference suggesting that contemporary breweries were following traditional style directions. Secondly a time profile of colour and bitterness suggested that beers had become lighter and less bitter in the five years between 1995 and 2000, Figure 2, although the differences were not significant.

This analysis is, of course, now historic but the topic is still relevant and in 2018 we revisited it to determine what

styles: mild, bitter, best bitter, strong bitter, brown ales,

changes, if any had occurred as a result of the explosion

scotch ales, India pale ale, porter, stout, old ales, barley

of breweries and beers since. In effect to answer the

wines and winter ales. We were able to provide a basic

questions “are beer styles consistent” and “how do they

fingerprint based on easily measurable parameters – ABV,

reflect the contemporary industry”?

OG, PG, pH, colour and bitterness. Of these parameters

64

March 2020

For this we analysed the data of 1,469 beers from 22

Brewers Journal

beer

Above: Figure 3. Cluster analysis of beer styles 2017. Heat map colour indicates intensity of each parameter.

styles

s c i e n c e

increased by 6%. ABV varied less extensively by only 1.2% but is more constrained by style definitions. One conclusion is that beers today are lighter but more bitter than previously – possibly reflecting the trend of

breweries representing the small scale brewing industry between 2006 and 2017. The range of styles differed with

international beers.

One additional analysis of this data was to compare

the inclusion of lager, blond ales, Saison and strong ales.

the measured ABV against the declared ABV to

Scotch and brown ales were not included as very few

determine the extent of compliance within HMRC

were in the cohort in the period.

requirements. Overall when the positive and negative

The result was quite similar to that for 2006, as shown

differences were considered an average difference of

in Figure 3. The dark beers, milds, porters and stouts

0.17% was noted. While this is less than found in some

group together again along with winter ales. Some

other studies it is greater than that required by HMRC

differences are evident, however, with best bitters

for revenue declarations. Nevertheless, this will not

separating from ordinary and strong bitters and aligning

be a contravention if breweries are assiduous in their

with blond ales, barley wines, golden bitters, dark ales

measurements and report actual levels for specific beers.

and strong ales.

Looking in more detail at the differences allows

One limitation of this analysis is that the beers were from established breweries and do not necessarily reflect

specific style comparisons to be made and also for

the wave of novel and adventurous creations of more

general trends to be identified. Table 1 (overleaf)

recent establishments. To assess this we looked at two

summarises the data from 2006 and 2017.

areas of innovation. One was experimental beers from

Overall analysis indicates that in eight out of ten styles colour has reduced and bitterness increased. In fact colour decreased overall by 22% while bitterness

brewersjournal.info

these breweries and the second using examples of a more recently popular style, sours.

Today breweries are increasingly trialling novel recipes

March 2020

65

s c i e n c e

beer

styles

Table 1. Comparison of style data between 2006 and 2017 Style

N=

Alcohol by volume

Original Gravity

Final Gravity

Bitterness

Colour

Barley Wines 2006

14

8.5

1083

1017

32

70

Barley Wines 2017

9

8.9

1084.6

1017.5

43

34

Best Bitter 2006

106

4.2

1042

1008

29

28

Best Bitter 2017

357

4.3

1041.3

1008.4

32.1

26.6

Bitter 2006

104

3.7

1037

1008

27

25

Bitter 2017

366

3.8

1038.4

1008.6

28.6

20

India Pale Ale 2006

15

3.9

1039

1008

29

24

India Pale Ale 2017

20

4.3

1042.6

1009

30

34.2

Mild 2006

48

3.6

1036

1008

22

86

Mild 2017

23

4.2

1044

1011

27.2

52

Old Ales 2006

22

6.3

1063

1013

29

71

Old Ales 2017

27

6.6

1063.9

1013.6

37.5

101.5

Porter 2006

23

4.9

1049

1013

33

121

Porter 2017

32

5

1051

1012.4

27.9

95.7

Stout 2006

23

4.5

1046

1012

34

142

Stout 2017

55

4.9

1047

1009.5

35

111.5

Strong Bitter 2006

66

5

1050

1010

29

35

Strong Bitter 2017

134

4.6

1045.7

1010.3

34.8

28.5

Winter Ales 2006

13

5.3

1054

1012

29

76

Winter Ales 2017

13

4.17

1040

1007.6

21.6

39.7

Values are averages for each parameter

to anticipate trends. We analysed 81 of these to gain

low (1001, 1003, 1007) or high (1010, 1013), Fig 5. Acidity

an idea of their variability and plotted the results in Fig

was almost exclusively from lactic acid (0.24 to 2.01%) and

4. In summary these trial beers indicate that ABV and

all samples contained yeast or bacteria or both.

bitterness had the greatest range compared to colour.

The data shown here is, of course, only a snapshot

ABV ranged from 0% to 10.3% suggesting beers with both

but does provide some indication of the char-acter of

low and high alcohol are being developed. Bitterness

craft beers in general. Customers do still purchase

was also broad in range and probably reflects interest in

using styles as a guide to their prefer-ence but are

the many hop varieties now available. Colour range was

increasingly responsive to ingredients, broad flavour

more restrained but would be interesting to investigate

descriptions and brand image. Moreover, studies suggest

further with a broader wavelength spectra to indicate the

that diversification of beer character is correlated to the

character of the colours and their ingredients.

development of the microbrewery industry.

To assess the specific style of sour beers we analysed

Styles provide a guide for many, but not all,

six retail samples from cans and bottles. Overall these

brewing competitions and may assist in trading stand-

beers followed the characteristics of the style to enhance

ards disputes. With 152 styles listed by the Brewers

growth of souring microbes with low ABV and low

Association in 2019 there is plenty of oppor-tunity to

bitterness - excepting one beer with a BU of 18. Colour

expand the market and it is likely that many beers will also

was also lower than for most other styles and PG either

be developed as combinations of styles. We look forward

66

March 2020

Brewers Journal

beer

styles

s c i e n c e

Above: Figure 4. Variability of unspecified beers

Above: Figure 5. Variability in retail sour beers

to monitoring the next wave of invention as the industry

British Beer Styles: Where are they heading? British Food

becomes even more sophisticated.

Journal, Vol 122 No. 1, pp, 60-74.

Further reading

u Šušteršič, , and Snežana s. Do Consumer Tastes Evolve with Competition? The Case of the Slovenian Beer Market.

Kyklos 66, No. 2, pp, 306–16. u Thomas, K. (2006), British beers: a survey of cask ale

u Brewers Association. www.brewersassociation.org/

character, British Food Journal, Vol 108 No. 10, pp, 849-

edu/brewers-association-beer-style-guidelines.

858.

u Parker, D, Taylor M, Johnson J R, Thomas, K R, (2019),

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d at e s

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events 17 April 2020 - 18 April 2020

GUisBoroUGh Beer festival Guisborough Parish Hall www.clevelandcamra.org.uk 22 April 2020 - 25 April 2020

Great Welsh Beer Festival, Cardiff Sophia Gardens, Cardiff www.gwbf.org.uk 23 April 2020 - 25 April 2020

Farnham Beerex, Surrey Farnham Maltings www.farnhambeerex.org.uk 30 April 2020 - 3 May 2020

Poppies Beer Festival The Brewers Lectures take place in Norwich for the first time on March 18th. Turn to page 26 for the full preview.

6 March 2020 - 7 March 2020

north sUsseX Beer & cider festival Drill Hall, Horsham northsussex.camra.org.uk 13 March 2020 - 14 March 2020

winchester real ale and cider festival Winchester Guildhall www.winchesterbeerfestival.org.uk 18 March 2020

Brewers Lectures norwich Dragon Hall, Norwich lectures.brewersjournal.info 3 April 2019 - 4 April 2019

north leeds charity Beer festival North Leeds Cricket Club, Leeds www.northleedscharitybeerfestival.co.uk 3 April 2020 - 4 April 2020

caMra MeMBers weeKend and aGM Central Hall, University of Yorkshire www.camra.org.uk 9 April 2020 - 11 April 2020

isle of Man winter Beer festival The Royal Hall, Douglas www.iombeerfestival.com

70

March 2020

Latimer Park, Kettering www.pratsktfc.com 1 May 2020 - 3 May 2020

Kingdom of Fife Real Ale Festival Rothes Halls, Glenrothes www.kingdomoffife.camra.org.uk 7 May 2020 - 10 May 2020

Reading Beer & Cider Festival Christchurch Meadows, Reading www.readingbeerfestival.org.uk May 2020

Brewers Lectures brighton Brighton lectures.brewersjournal.info 11 June 2020

Brewers Lectures nottingham The Canalhouse, Nottingham lectures.brewersjournal.info October 2020

Brewers Lectures Bristol Watershed, Bristol lectures.brewersjournal.info 8 December - 9 December 2020

brewers congress The Brewery, Chiswell Street, London congress.brewersjournal.info

Brewers Journal

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Innovus Engineering

@canseamers