The magazine for the professional brewing industry
Brewers J o u r n a l
November~December 2017 | Volume 3, issue 6 ISSN 2059-6669
Saltaire Investing in the future
40 | FOUNDERS: BREW, BUT DO IT FOR THE RIGHT REASONS
36 | LUDLOW BREWERY ON THE BEAUTY OF CASK BEER
44 | YEAST: REPITCH AND REAP THE BENEFITS
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le ad e r
improve yourself
T
he subject of quality assurance in brewing is, understandably, nothing new. But in recent weeks and months, it’s something that has come up time, and time, and time again. So it’s an issue that needs to be looked at in more detail, and it's a facet of the industry that needs collective action. This is required to ensure people’s hard work doesn’t go down the drain because some breweries aren’t paying it enough attention and people new to drinking, hopefully, good beer aren’t put off by a negative experience. "As craft brewers become more and more ambitious with their beers, such as using Brettanomyces (a very latent yeast which can chew through almost anything) and adding fruit purees to beers, I believe it is key that they invest as much as possible in their QA system and learn as much as they can about their trade, before risking an idea on the general public, Rob Lovatt, head brewer and production director at Thornbridge tells us on page 21. He stresses: “No-one wants to see more recalls, but let’s get something straight: a product recall is not ‘great QA’ as some devoted beer fans commented on social media, but a necessary procedure for a brewery to carry out when the brewery QA system has failed completely. What we do want to see are educated, skilled brewers creating innovative and exciting beers, brewed using the correct procedures – beers that excite the beer geeks whilst also making beer more accessible and attractive to all drinkers.” His points are echoed in part by Moor Beer owner Justin Hawke, who recently spoke at our Brewers Lectures event in Bristol. "Sure, if I could go back and see what I was doing in the early days and assess some of the assumptions I made with regards to brewing then some beers were probably not near the quality they are now. The same would apply to other breweries, too,” he says. “But people are opening cans and pouring out hop matter.
brewersjournal.info
editor's choice For Saltaire Brewery, it’s time to push on and further cement its positive reputation in the UK- page 30
That is not ok. Look at the whole mobile canning side of things, too. That is an issue for me. We fought, and continue to fight to get cans accepted. And while I appreciate the platform mobile canners give breweries, it also gives you a low quality platform to package beer of unknown quality.” Hawke adds: “For so long we have had an industry where consumers thought that cans were shit. And if they now go to a market to try a canned beer and are let down in a very serious way then they are probably done with that for life. It’s very serious.” And Alec Mull, VP of brewing operations at Founders takes the conversation towards packaging. “Packaging is not sexy, let’s be honest. But when it comes to high-quality packaging lines," he says. "You simply have to invest. Brewers prefer to talk about IBUs and hops but it's critical to pay this area attention." Tim Sheahan Editor
November~December 2017
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Brewers Journal
STEINECKER
Brewing technology #GermanBlingBling #Steinecker
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co nte nt s
contents 30
40
44
21
36
Cover story 30 - Saltaire Brewery is a name synonymous with excellent cask beer. But for MD Ewen Gordon, it’s time for Saltaire to push on and further cement its reputation in the UK.
COMMENTS 21- Rob Lovatt, head brewer and production director at Thornbridge, on why breweries need to invest more in their QA systems 25- What does your quality assurance scheme achieve and what does it tell you? David Gurr from InfinityQS asks the question 28- Un-malted cereal ingredients have been used in brewing for years, and there is renewed interest in them, says Crisp Malt
Meet The Brewer | lUDLOW 36- For somewhere like Ludlow, which has a long tradition and history of brewing, drinkers were bereft of locally, well-produced beer for decades. That was until Ludlow Brewery opened its doors in May 2006. Since then the brewery, owned by Gary Walters, has gone from strength-to-strength.
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November~December 2017
foreign focus | FOUNDERS 40- Founders exports to 25 countries across the globe with the UK its biggest export market. Its charge on these shores is led by All Day IPA, its session IPA that is popping up on an increasing number of keg fonts and in cans, too. We spoke with the team to get their views on exports, the NEIPA trend and the importance of packaging.
science | yeast 40- When most brewers are starting out, they rely on dry yeast cultures for the bulk of production. Dry yeast is very easy to use, and affordable to the point that it does not need to be reused. However, as breweries grow, they often find themselves seeking out the wider range of flavours available through liquid yeast cultures, or the other benefits of liquid yeast slurry reuse. explains Escarpment Laboratories.
Brewers Journal
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n e ws
forge your own path, says MOOR B
reweries should concentrate on their own journeys
then, and that's when there were only 300 of us. My
and spend less time concerned with the wider
advice would be to focus on your own business and
changes in the industry, says Justin Hawke, owner of Moor Beer. Hawke was speaking at the recent Brewers Lectures event, organised by The Brewers Journal, in Bristol. During his motivational talk on leadership, Hawke
concentrate on your own path," he explained. Hawke formed part of a industry-leading lineup of speakers that also included Chorlton Brewing Co founder Mike Marcus and Ernesto Salas, product development manager at Lallemand. The event was also completed
drew leadership principles from his time at West Point.
with compelling talks from Ed Mason, managing director
He offered a retrospect on his first 10 years in the industry
and owner of London's Five Points, Jim Wilson from
and also gave his views of where it's heading next.
Simply Hops, petainerKeg's Brett Lamont and Roger
Hawke gave examples of leadership to adopt both internally and externally, imploring attendees to know yourself and seek self improvement, be technically and
Ryman, master brewer and brewing director at St Austell Brewery & Bath Ales, In his talk, Ryman outlined the reasons behind the
tactically proficient while also taking responsibility for your
company's recent investment in a Lauter Tun for Bath
actions.
Ales.
Externally, he said brewery owners should know
He said: "Among the benefits the new equipment
their team and look out for their well being, to keep your
gives us is that it helps with competitive tendering with
team informed while also aiming to employ a team in
continental suppliers and the capital cost was actually
accordance with its capabilities.
less that the dual mash tun option.
Hawke also said those concerned with the increasingly
"There's also the desire to brew authentic European
competitive UK brewing landscape should look closer to
style lagers and it gives us flexibility to brew other beer
home before worrying about the bigger picture.
styles, alongside our traditional ales. Additionally, there
"So what if there are 1,700 breweries in the UK now? Rewind a few years and people were also complaining
New chair in Brewing Science at University of Nottingham
T
is the opportunity to improve our extract to 98%, which is incredibly beneficial."
made David a well-known and respected face on the international brewing science circuit. Professor Cook explained: ‘I am thrilled to have the
he University of Nottingham has announced the
opportunity to lead the highly talented team we have in
appointment of Professor David Cook to the AB InBev
the ICBS and to continue the excellent work done by my
Chair in Brewing Science, following the departure of Professor Joanne Hort earlier this year. Cook has been an academic in the International Centre for Brewing Science (ICBS) at the University of Nottingham since its inception in 2005, working
predecessors. "I am on record as saying that brewing research is of limited value if it is not both ‘applied’ in nature and responsive to the needs of the industry. "Our work would have limited impact without a vibrant,
alongside former Chair Katherine Smart to help establish
profitable and technologically savvy brewing industry to
Nottingham as a global force in Brewing Science
work alongside; hence our aim is to work for the mutual
Teaching and Research.
good of the sector as a whole.
As Brewing Course Director David co-authored and
“For the University of Nottingham this means delivering
delivered the University of Nottingham’s ground-breaking
cost-effective research which delivers solutions to the
continual professional development courses for brewers,
key challenges faced by our partners in industry, as well
featuring state of the art e-learning, coupled with short
as producing highly skilled graduate brewers with the
intensive courses held at the University. His research
practical and technical knowledge to excel in their chosen
interests focus on the functionality of raw materials in
field.
brewing with particular expertise in their flavour and
"We have achieved much to be proud of in this regard
sensory impacts, as well as related topics such as the
over recent years and will continue to grow our teaching
flavour stability of beers. A successful publication
and research activities to deliver impact for the industry
record and high profile conference presentations have
and, of course, for our university.”
brewersjournal.info
November~December 2017
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Mondo sets sights on the big time with upcoming expansion M
ondo Brewing Company has cited growth from new and existing customers as the reasons behind its
latest expansion. Battersea-based Mondo Brewing Company will boost capacity by 80% following the investment in a new brewhouse setup later this year. The brewery, co-founded by Todd Matteson and Tom Palmer, is replacing its existing Zip Technologies setup with a new system from the Hungarian manufacturer. It is also adding a Gruber kegging system; a two-head cleaner, one-head filler setup with output speeds up to 45 kegs per hour. The move coincides with the addition of a new unit that Mondo will use as its cold store, freeing up significant space in the existing site that is currently used for that purpose. This space will allow Mondo to investigate the
contributed massively to expansion at Mondo. Our Dennis
addition of a canning line to bring the process in-
Hopper IPA has performed really well for us and I’m
house, something that is currently and ably handled by
excited about how consumers will take to it now we are
Bermondsey’s Fourpure.
canning that beer. Alongside that, our All Caps American
Matteson is enthused by the brewery’s growth, which he attributes to a number of factors. He explained: “We have been running at capacity for a while now and had planned to expand. It’s just happening sooner than we initially anticipated. “New accounts and growth with existing clients has
New fungal chitosan aims to replace isinglass
Pilsner and Little Victories beers will follow into can, too.” Matteson added that it has been a year of evolution for Mondo. “We bought out our early investors in February of this year so now this business is family-owned, which we are very proud of,” he added.
been excellent.” Plater Bio manufactures novel biostimulants and micronutrients for the agriculture and horticulture
A
new flocculant, Chitosan, is aiming to revolutionize
industries. All our products are manufactured exclusively
real ale clarification and replace isinglass
on-site in Glossop, North Derbyshire.
It is manufactured by UK-based Plater Bio and is
extracted from specially cultured fungi. Plater Bio the only manufacturer of fungal chitosan
It manufactures natural extracts using a unique manufacturing system without the use of synthetic chemicals, heat or pressure. Unlike the vast majority of
outside of China and aims to have the new material taken
chitosan imported from Asia, Plater Bio said its chitosan is
up by the industry as a replacement for isinglass as it is
not made from prawn heads and crab shells.
more effective and is suitable for vegan and organic uses, they said. Dr Russell Sharp, Plater Bio technical director, explained: “At Plater Bio we are very excited about
This is claimed to make the new material suitable for applications where animal waste is prohibited or where ingredients need to be vegan/halal/kosher. Plater Bio’s Fungal Chitosan is also REACH regulation
the benefits of this revolutionary product. Initial trials
exempt as it is a natural polysaccharide, the company
have shown that fungal chitosan is a far more powerful
said.
flocculant than crab chitosan for clarifying real ale. “We have worked with unclarified samples of beer from Pot Belly Brewery in Kettering and the results have
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November~December 2017
In addition, this substance’s uses include removing humates and other contaminants in water treatment and protecting crops from fungi and bacterial diseases.
Brewers Journal
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Fourpure rebrands can range F
ourpure, the London-based brewery, has said it wants to make craft beer “more accessible to new
audiences” following its new can redesign. The new cans feature extended tasting notes designed to help beer drinkers identify which beer they’d like to try. The range will also features a creative representation of their ‘brewed and canned in London’ proposition. Daniel Lowe, co-founder of Fourpure, explained: “Provenance is increasingly becoming a key factor in the purchasing decision for beer drinkers so we wanted to make it clear that we still brew and can in London, our home. “Beer drinkers are increasingly knowledgeable with regards to the different flavours across beer styles -
upgraded centrifuge, a carbonation module, additional
we wanted to reflect this in our new style descriptors
indoor/outdoor chillers, malt and spent grain silos and 12
and tasting notes, and crucially make craft beer more
x 200hL fermentation tanks. Speaking at the time, Lowe said: “We are funding this
accessible to new audiences.” Earlier this year Fourpure announced it was to follow
most recent expansion of our business in a traditional
2016’s £1.6m investment in a canning and packing line
way through a combination of lending, borrowing and
with a new four vessel Craft-Star brewing system from
reinvestment. We are delighted that so many people
GEA and additional new equipment.
enjoy our beer and this investment will help us to
The Craft-Star brewing system is the first of its kind to hit the UK, while the £2m spend also includes an
continue this exciting path to becoming one the UK’s leading craft brewers.”
Layer Board Now Available! • Strong, durable and weather resistant • Greater safety and efficiency For more information contact Peter Lawley on 07917 305140 or email: pete.lawley@murphyandson.co.uk www.murphyandson.co.uk Layer board design ©2017 Murphy & Son Ltd in partnership with Hallam Plastics
brewersjournal.info
November~December 2017
13
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Murphy & Son unveils new impact resistant layer board M
urphy & Son has launched a new layer board, produced in collaboration with Hallam Plastics, that
is more durable, weather resistant safe and strong than existing products. Layer boards are a staple in every brewery and used throughout the supply line. They’re not, however, without their bugbears; prone to cracking in frosty conditions, warping under heavy use and collecting rain water. Murphy & Son said the new layer board is designed with the brewer and brewery in mind. It is compatible with numerous automated systems and manufactured from High Density Polyethylene (HDPE), a superior non-brittle plastic that won’t crack or split in sub-zero temperatures and is impact resistant. It is manufactured using engineered structural foam
the company added. Murphy & Son added: “The board’s superior manufacture is coupled with business acumen. It’s
(ESF), the board boasts a high strength to weight ratio,
100% recyclable and returnable for supply chain cost
compared to conventional injection moulding techniques.
effectiveness.
“Plus, we’ve even added a simple drainage system so rain water can no longer collect. HDPE is stronger, more durable, more rigid and more resistant to the sunlight’s
"Plus, our boards can be customised; available in a range of colours and with the option to add a logo. “A radio-frequency identification tag facility is also
UV rays than conventional polypropylene, ensuring safer
available upon request, to enable accurate tracking, deter
loading and unloading for draymen and fewer breakages,”
theft and enhance security. We’ve left no stone unturned.”
Magic Rock “fully-committed” to indy retailers, says MD Richard Burhouse
to put out specials, the weird and wonderful beers that seem to resonate with people. It is important to keep that going. “We still really enjoy our core, and it’s necessary to
S
ecuring a major listing at Marks & Spencer gives
keep things ticking over. But in my eyes it’s the special
Magic Rock security while allowing it to stay “fully-
stuff that keeps us relevant. It’s fun for the brewers here
committed” to independent retailers, says managing director Richard Burhouse. Magic Rock has secured a nationwide listing with Marks & Spencer for its High Wire, Salty Kiss and Inhaler beers, a move that has resulted in the brewery significantly increasing production capacity. An additional 500hl has been installed, increasing capacity to 1,200hl. Burhouse expects this to come online this month. “Much of that will be taken up by the beer we will be producing for Marks & Spencer but it also means we can start to supply beers to accounts we’ve previously had to turn down, too,” he said. The brewery’s managing director also added the
as well.” Burhouse said that Magic Rock had been approached by major retailers in the past, but the possibility of that jeopardising existing accounts put paid to the idea. “This new relationship allows us to secure future volume and when you’re asked who you’d like to partner with, Real Ale and M&S would be the ones. It’s a really good fit,” he said. Burhouse was also keen to stress that the new listing would not impact its relationship with independent retailers. He said: “I did think about it a lot. We are committed to them, the M&S listing is limited to those three beers and the opportunity to get those beers to the far flung corners
decision to supply Marks & Spencer would not impact its
to the country was really attractive. It helps our forward
production of other beers.
planning and gives us confidence and security.
He explained: “We don’t want to disrupt our ability
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November~December 2017
“It’s a consequence of us maturing as a business.”
Brewers Journal
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Fuller’s team up with six breweries for 'fuller's and friends' project
W
est London-based Fuller’s has teamed with breweries including Thornbridge, Fourpure and
Cloudwater for a new collaboration project. Fuller’s has also worked with Moor Beer, Marble and Hardknott on the new collaboration six-pack. The beers, which will be available at Waitrose later this year, are the result of six members of the Fuller’s brewing team partnering up with each brewer. Together, they have created new recipes, worked through the whole brewing process from beginning to end, as well as designing the artwork and came up with about agreeing a recipe then brewing a beer, it is a great
a name. The six pack includes a dry-hopped lager with Fourpure, a New Zealand Saison with Marble, a red
way to make friends. “So Georgina and I asked Rob at Thornbridge, Dave
rye ale with Thornbridge, a New England IPA with
at Hardknott, Dan at Fourpure, Justin at Moor, James at
Cloudwater, a smoked Porter with Hardknott and a
Cloudwater and JK at Marble, all of whom I knew, some
homage to Extra Special Bitter with Moor Beer.
I had already brewed with but all were friends, to get
John Keeling, Fuller’s global ambassador, said: “It has
involved. What better way to get the team at Fuller’s to
been a privilege to be able to welcome these six brewers
experience the full meaning of collaboration than for
to Fuller’s home to create these new beers.
them to work with these great brewers?
“I have always enjoyed doing collaborations and to
“The levels of enthusiasm and creativity in our first
extend this to include brewers from other breweries all
meeting was so inspiring and it did not take long for
over the country seemed like it would be such fun for
recipes and trial brews to follow.
everyone. “Collaborating on beers is much more effective when meeting a brewer face to face. Collaboration is not just
New canning facility for BAD Company
“I am looking forward to tasting all the final brews and to continue the legacy of Fuller’s and Friends with other brewers in the future.”
the same design as high speed lines. Additionally an ecologically minded water conservation tank and filtration system was installed. The line was cleverly designed by
Y
orkshire-based BAD Company has invested in a
Enterprise to allow integration of an existing bottling line
new canning facility that will enable the business to
already supplied from Enterprise Tondelli to maximise
can their own beers in-house, as well as offer contract facilities for other breweries. The Dishforth brewery has called on Enterprise
labour utilisation with easy access. The addition of a new BRB Globus Mega ADE rotary bottle labeller means that it can be used for can as well
Tondelli for a canning facility that would enable the
as bottle labelling. With the minimum print run of cans
business to meet the growing demand for its beers from
being around 50,000 and with an economic cut off point
nationwide customers.
of around 150,000 this will allow short runs to be carried
The brewery commissioned Enterprise Tondelli to provide the can filler/seamer along with the canning line ancillaries including all conveyors. The can line starts with a high level all stainless steel can depalletiser that can handle both short and tall stacks of cans for cost saving on bulk can transport costs. This feeds to a gravity can rinser with two channel for future can sizes such as 440 ml or 500ml and using
16
November~December 2017
out for specialist beers or local craft breweries entering the can market but seeking quality production. The labeller can run either wraparound body labels or body and back label for maximum versatility In phase two it will be possible to run the two packaging facilities independently but without moving any of the equipment installed in phase one allowing sustainable and modular growth for the future.
Brewers Journal
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Element equipment brings Premier Stainless Systems to UK market
U
S manufacturer Premier Stainless Systems, which produces brewhouses, tanks and keg washers has
started selling it’s equipment to the UK through Element Equipment and Consultancy. Element, which was established in April 2017 by Jon Clatworthy, will act as Premier’s distributor, providing sales and technical support to UK breweries. California’s Premier Stainless Systems have supplied more than 600 breweries to customers including Mikkeller, Cloudwater, Stone Brewing, Pirate Life, Ballast Point, Garage Project, White Labs and Edge Brewing. Brewing systems are available from 2-10 BBL pilot systems, or 10-40 BBL systems. These are a bespoke design, with 2-4 vessel systems, complete with HLT, CLT,
represents a great option for anybody looking for brewery equipment.” Rob Soltys, president of Premier Stainless Systems,
pumps, heat exchanger, wort aeration, FVs, Brite tanks,
added, “At a time when the UK craft brewing industry
temperature control systems.
is flourishing, it made a lot of sense for us to work with
Jon Clatworthy, director of Element Equipment, explained: “We are naturally delighted to establish
Element to make it easier for brewers to access our range. “We have worked with Cloudwater and Lovibonds
a partnership to supply Premier’s range of brewery
breweries in the UK, and we look forward to the
equipment to craft brewers across the UK.
opportunity of working with more British breweries in the
“The UK craft beer market is in an extremely exciting phase, and I know that brewers will welcome the
future”. Element also offers added distillation systems for
opportunity to consider Premier equipment for their
craft spirits. The business is the European agent for HBS
businesses.
Copper, based in Barlow, Kentucky. They supply stills for
“Premier’s reputation for quality equipment at pricing
commercial and hobbyist distillers, all made from high
which offers real value for money, along with the
grade copper and Element is seeing a lot of breweries
service and backup which can be provided by Element
taking an interest in these systems.
Wimbledon Brewery launches three new beers
The first beer in the Winter Collection, which launched in October, is the XK Autumn Ale 3.5%. Prentice said the XK as the “baby brother” of the XXXK barley wine. Using
W
imbledon Brewery has announced the
the residual weaker sugar wort from the brewing of the
introduction of three beers, inspired by the
high strength barley wine, Wimbledon have brewed this
original Brewery which burned down in 1889. The origin
‘small beer’, adding chocolate and caramel malts to add
of the idea was the discovery of a price list from the old
further body and depth of flavour.
brewery, then based in Wimbledon Village. Master Brewer Derek Prentice explained: "Traditionally,
The XK was followed by a bigger brother in the shape of Wimbledon’s XXK Winter Ale, 4.8%, with a spice and
beer strength was denoted by Xs – so an ‘X’ beer would
dried fruit character. The XXK incorporates malted wheat
be a ‘mild’, ‘XX’ a stronger brew and ‘XXX’ the strongest
to add a silky texture and give a creamy head. In keeping
(often also known as a barley wine) – typically at between
with the Winter theme,
8-13% alcohol. XXXK – the K denotes a ‘keeper’ – could be kept and aged for many months or even years. "Since (Wimbledon Founder) Mark Gordon showed
Finally the big beast itself, the XXXK (circa 10%) Barley Wine, which will be put into bottles and casks in mid-November to mature. Once Prentice and his team
me the old price list, I’ve wanted to make our own
are happy with the results, the finished bottles will be
interpretation of an XXXK. This led us to the beers we’re
released – just in time for Christmas. The remainder of the
releasing this Autumn.”
brew will slumber in cask until 2018.
18
November~December 2017
Brewers Journal
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Q uality
assurance
co m m e nt
A rising tide It is key breweries invest as much as possible in their QA system, and learn as much as they can about their trade, before risking an idea on the general public, explains Rob Lovatt, head brewer and production director at Thornbridge.
five brands of bottle conditioned beers available in the UK. I suspect yet again that the reason to shy away from bottle conditioning was to ‘allow the brewers to sleep at night’. Bottle conditioning certainly brings something to the table, namely improved resilience to oxidation and a softer, more natural form of carbonation. Here is a relatively detailed explanation of bottled conditioning and the various ways to approach it: https:// beerandbrewing.com/dictionary/iKSxvCoDdk/bottle-
by rob lovatt
conditioning/ At Thornbridge, we centrifuge the beer bright, measure the CO2 level, then calculate the correct
A
amount of sugar solution we need to add to obtain the
but the entire UK craft brewing industry. Until I received
bottle conditioning. Namely these are:
few days ago, I was sent an e-mail by a head brewer from a regional brewery
desired level of in-pack carbonation. Finally, we inoculate the beer with 0.75-1.0 million
commenting on the spate of exploding
cells/ml of Champagne yeast. We approach wheat beers
cans and product recalls that has hit the
slightly differently, by ‘krausening’ each batch of wheat
craft brewing industry recently.
beer from a lager fermentation, but again making the
One of his main concerns was that these product
recalls would tarnish not just the breweries involved, this e-mail, I hadn’t really considered it from this angle.
necessary calculation to hit the desired level of CO2. I mentioned earlier about the ‘inherent’ problems of u Introducing an infection into a previously
However, after ‘chewing the cud’, I believe he has a valid
microbiological clean beer. This could be either during
point, particularly if somebody was injured as a result of
the dosing of the yeast or sugar or a very small number of
an exploding vessel.
bacteria which, under bright conditions, wouldn’t cause
One thing I have always advocated and pushed for is
problems, but as soon as there is any form of autolysis
fresh beer. Not only fresh beer, but beer which has had
from the yeast it acts as a food source, reinvigorating the
minimal processing and certainly has not pasteurised. As
latent bacteria.
a brewer once said to me, ‘Pasteurisation allows brewers
u The refermentation of the sugars stalling, resulting
to sleep at night’. What makes pasteurisation so attractive
in an under carbonated beer ( this is one of the reasons
from a QA and safety point of view is that it doesn’t matter
I would suggest always using fresh healthy yeast, rather
what has gone on upstream.
than tired, stressed yeast from the primary fermentation).
Even a beer infected at the last possible moment
u The brewer incorrectly calculating the level of
during packaging would have no issues, as it is heated
fermentable sugars, resulting in over carbonation, and in
sufficiently in its final container to kill any yeast or bacteria
the worst case scenario – exploding bottles or cans.
which may have been inadvertently introduced. I know
Out of the three scenarios, it’s the latter which would
for a fact that some breweries in the past have not really
give most brewers cause for concern. At first glance, it
worried too much about infections upstream, as they are
might seem that the obvious mistake would be to get the
relying on the pasteurisers dealing with bacteria once the
sugar calculation wrong, which of course could happen if
beer is packaged.
a brewer was to get his decimal point in the wrong place
Bottle conditioning used to be fairly common practice, but because of the inherent problems of bottle conditioning, it became a rarity. This blog here:
or the sugar wasn’t weighed out or mixed correctly into the beer. A more latent problem can be when the primary
http://zythophile.co.uk/2010/01/15/a-short-history-of-
fermentation hasn’t reached its limit of attenuation, even
bottled-beer/ quotes that in the 1970’s, there were only
though the brewer thinks the fermentation is complete.
brewersjournal.info
November~December 2017
21
Co m m e nt
Q uality
assurance
So, if for example a fermentation stalled at 3 Plato and
been a huge number of new breweries start up within the
the brewer thought that his fermentation was complete,
last two years and many of them are trying to run before
but for one reason or another the true level of attenuation
they can walk, with no QA system and guided only by
was 2.0 Plato, this could equate to a significant increase in
generic homebrew books and a desire to impress social
carbonation once the beer had fermented out.
media forums with wacky beer ideas and cool branding.
The problem would only rear its head when the fresh,
In addition, I have just heard a story from another
healthy yeast is added to the beer. At Thornbridge, part
country where a brewer added pure fruit puree to a beer
of our QA system involves a limit of attenuation test of
and assumed because the beer had been filtered, there
every batch of beer we produce. Fermentations are a
was nothing to worry about! Can you imagine if Coca-
fairly hostile environment for yeast cells, with high levels
Cola had this attitude? An even worse scenario would
of CO2, alcohol and pressure, and therefore there is
be an exploding keykeg due to refermentation after
always the chance a fermentation won’t reach its true
packaging and this could have disastrous consequences.
level of attenuation. In the limit of attenuation test, we
As craft brewers become more and more ambitious
provide optimal conditions, a high yeast count, constant
with their beers, such as using Brettanomyces (a very
agitation at a steady 20c for between 24 hours and 48
latent yeast which can chew through almost anything)
hours. The result from this test in theory would be the
and adding fruit purees to beers, I believe it is key that
level the fermentation in question should attenuate to, all
they invest as much as possible in their QA system and
being well.
learn as much as they can about their trade, before risking
If we find a fermentation has a level of attenuation which doesn’t match the limit of attenuation test, then we
an idea on the general public. No-one wants to see more recalls, but let’s get
have numerous weapons in our arsenal to complete the
something straight: a product recall is not ‘great QA’ as
fermentation. These include rousing, krausening, or using
some devoted beer fans commented on social media,
a different yeast strain to complete the fermentation.
but a necessary procedure for a brewery to carry out
However, a beer would never be signed off for packaging
when the brewery QA system has failed completely.
without it reaching its limit of attenuation, or as near as
What we do want to see are educated, skilled brewers creating innovative and exciting beers, brewed using the
damn it. Although it appears that the number of product recalls
correct procedures – beers that excite the beer geeks
within the industry have calmed down, I still don’t believe
whilst also making beer more accessible and attractive to
that the problems have been fully solved. There have
all drinkers. A rising tide lifts all boats!
22
November~December 2017
Brewers Journal
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Join us at:
Q uality
C ontrol
co m m e nt
How Brewers can gain QA wins What does your quality assurance scheme achieve? What does it tell you? And what would you like it to tell you? asks David Gurr from quality control software business InfinityQS
process is going wrong – and if so, allow you to dump that batch before it disappoints your hard-won customers. But, crucially, pass/fail checks don’t tell you how right things are going! Pass/fail data don’t show you how close to the limit you are. They don’t show trends. They don’t show you how likely you are to be able to brew a consistent quality product again in the future. You gain these benefits only
by rob lovatt
by recording the actual values (for lab data and sensory) over multiple batches, over time. Once you start doing
A
ny commercial craft brewer would say they
this you can gain some key insights. First up, you can view a histogram distribution of
care about quality (if you’re a craft brewer
data at each stage (see chart below). This tells you how
and disagree with this statement, please let
frequent each value is, where the outliers are and where
me know so that I can stop drinking your
the majority of the values lie.
beer).
But let’s dissect that a little. What does your quality
assurance scheme achieve? What does it tell you? And what would you like it to tell you? Even the simplest QA schemes will cover raw ingredients checks, and process automation for steadystate processes such as mashing, boiling, fermentation and conditioning temperatures. You’ll be adjusting the length of some processes based on measurements, such as extending vorlauf based on wort clarity or extending (or curtailing) fermentation based on gravity. Then, between each stage in the process, you’ll be doing simple pass/fail checks. Is the liquid clear enough
Then, you can start to look at the capability for each
and the correct colour? Does it taste and smell right? Is
check at each step in the process. This allows you to
the gravity good and the pH pukka? In latter stages, does
answer what should be a key question for any brewer:
it have the correct level of dissolved O₂ and CO₂?
“How capable is my production process of producing the
These checks are vital and tell you whether the
brewersjournal.info
right result?”
November~December 2017
25
Co m m e nt
Q uality
C ontrol
You can do this separately for each stage: brewhouse, fermentation, conditioning, and packaging. You can even assign a numeric score to capability. In essence, it’s a score of how easily your histogram fits within your specification limits.
Moving on, you can look at statistically significant trends within your data. If your dissolved O₂ is within acceptable limits but steadily rising over time then you may have an emerging problem in conditioning. Pass/ Fail checks won’t show this. If you have a number of OG values near the lower or upper spec limit it might be time to run your own lab check on the malt you’re buying.
Finally, you could even start to compare quality parameters between different brews. Is the process capability for the ABV of your DIPA a problem, where it’s fine for your Saison? Managing the amount of data required for this type of analysis on paper or spreadsheets is near impossible.
26
November~December 2017
Brewers Journal
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C ereal
I ngredients
Uncovering the Mysteries of Un-Malted Cereal Ingredients Un-malted cereal ingredients have been used in brewing for hundreds, if not thousands, of years, and there is a renewed interest in them, according to Carl Heron of Crisp Malt. by carl heron
T
here is a renewed in interest in un-malted
Torrefied whole or crushed wheat
cereal ingredients, which follows decades
Torrefied wheat improves head retention, especially in
of relative indifference among smaller
wheat beers. It’s great for use as a nitrogen diluent as
brewers This has perhaps been a reaction
it adds very little soluble nitrogen to wort. It also adds
to the way international players have set
subtle depth of flavour and body.
their store by inclusions of maize or rice at the rate of over 20%. However, brewers in the craft sector are increasingly
Torrefied flaked barley
adventurous,They’re experimenting extensively with the
Torrefied flaked barley has similar benefits to torrefied
rich range of malts, but also visiting some of the excellent
wheat, but with a stronger and slightly harsher flavour.
un-malted cereals on offer. Torrefied and micronized wheat, barley, oats, rye,
Micronized flaked maize
maize and rice all offer the opportunity to play tunes on
Micronized flaked maize adds up to 20% of grist to
the flavour notes of beer. They impact on colour, head
the tun with normal malt, and even more with high
retention, body, smoothness and mouthfeel, and can
diastatic power malt. On top of this, it improves body and
therefore offer significant help in orchestrating the overall
mouthfeel, and is gluten and nitrogen free, allowing it to
characters of beers.
be used as a diluent in coeliac-friendly beers.
Clearly brewers can’t use raw grains. In the past, those that weren’t malted might be passed through a stream of
Micronized flaked rice
hot sand by grain merchants or had to be put through a
Micronized flaked rice also adds grist to the tun, and adds
cereal mash by brewers (using up precious space in the
a greater perception of refreshment. It also accentuates
mash tun).
hop aromas, without adding taste.
The processes of torrefication and micronization have provided much more satisfactory answers. They
Micronized flaked oats
involve rapid cooking of cereals at high temperatures to
Micronized flaked oats improves mouthfeel and increased
gelatinise the starchy endosperm.
body, but also imparts a smoothness and a pleasant oaty
Torrefication, rather like the sand-based methods of
flavour on the beer.
the past, involves passing the grains through a fluidised bed of very hot air at 750 - 780°F. The cell walls of the
Both torrefication and micronization can be applied to
grains are disrupted. The grains expand, their density
many cereals, including barley, wheat, rice, maize, oats,
changes, they’re aspirated to remove dust and chaff,
and rye, creating grains ready to be used for brewing,
then sized and cooled in the ambient air. Micronization
providing their own benefits. With these products you
involves using infrared waves to rapidly heat grains until
will be able to develop a brew that consists of your
they ‘pop’. The molecules within the grains vibrate and the
preferred colour, head retention, body, smoothness, and
molecular friction causes the fast increase in temperature
mouthfeel. Of course, experimenting with malts is crucial
and rise in water vapour pressure. Once the cellular
to developing a fantastic brew, but if a beer needs a
structure has been disrupted, the starch gelatinises.
little boost in a certain area, there’s usually an un-malted cereal which can be used to save the day.
28
November~December 2017
Brewers Journal
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B r e w e ry
To u r
S altaire
Staying true to yourself Saltaire Brewery is a name synonymous with excellent cask beer, whether that’s the flagship Saltaire Blonde, its Cascade Pale or the rich Cascadian Black. But for Ewen Gordon, managing director at Shipley business, it’s time for Saltaire to push on and further cement its strong reputation in the UK brewing industry.
transformed in the years since I joined. Saltaire was something resembling a hobby that got out of hand in the early days but it was underpinned by a passion for making really, really good beers,” he says. “As the years have passed, the industry has gone off in all directions and grown exponentially but we’ve somewhat restricted ourselves, until now." To cater for demand, the business was required to frequently add new tanks to their portfolio. But they had barely been installed when capacity limits were hit once again. So recently, Saltaire Brewery invested more than
by tim sheahan
£1m in new kit following ongoing growing demand for its beers. The new equipment more than doubles the
I
company’s brewing capacity to more than 100,000 pints
in new kit. But he is also realistic about the challenges
business was founded 12 years ago and the rise in the
they need to overcome to get the Saltaire name where he
popularity of craft beer has almost certainly played a
wants it to be.
significant part of that," says Gordon.
t’s time to breath more life into our creativity, to produce even more beers that we want to drink
per week. The spend follows continued and growing demand
and draw further inspiration from the myriad
for its beer, especially from ASDA, Morrisons, Sainsburys
of styles we all enjoy,” explains Ewen Gordon,
and Co-op, companies that have significantly increased
managing director at Saltaire Brewery.
distribution both in terms of new lines listed and
Gordon is excited about the journey ahead for Saltaire,
and he has every right to be thanks to a £1m investment
Saltaire Brewery was established in 2005 and is
increased store availability. “We’ve enjoyed year-on-year growth since the
"The new brew kit will be instrumental in allowing us to
dedicated to the production of high quality ales with a
grow more ambitiously over the next year, we’ve got our
contemporary twist. The Brewery is close to the UNESCO
sites set on a number of other significant developments
World Heritage site of Saltaire Village, famous for its
and additions to the business which will also support our
Victorian industrial heritage. Gordon joined the business
growth plans and enable us to get our beer out there
back in 2011 then later, taking on the role of managing
to more and more people. It’s a really exciting period of
director when Tony Gartland, owner and previously head
growth for the business, and the investments we’ve made
brewer of Saltaire, took a step back.
so far will only go to support the demand for our products
“The business and industry as a whole has truly
30
November~December 2017
on a national level.”
Brewers Journal
saltaire
brewersjournal.info
b r e w e ry
to u r
November~December 2017
31
Saltaire has returned to equipment manufacturer Moeschle for its new kit, a 40bbl setup on which the team
for at least the next five to 10 years. “We have worked with Moeschle for many years so
are currently outputting 320 brewers barrels a week but
when it came to investing, we wanted to return to them.
have the ability to move up to 1,000. Gordon is confident
We like longterm relationships with businesses and with
the new setup that comprises a 40-barrel infusion mash
people. Working with Moeschle has shown that,” says
tun, Copper with unique pillow-plate steam jacket and
Gordon. “With their know-how they have managed to link
also a combined whirlpool and hopback, allowing use of
the new bespoke kit into the old setup and we can also
both pellets and whole hops, will keep the brewery going
pipe beer from the new unit to the existing site. It’s a great
32
November~December 2017
Brewers Journal
relationship and the equipment is of the highest quality.” The manufacturer added: “Moeschle UK Ltd. is honoured to have worked in close partnership with
Gordon is enthused that the new equipment setup will open new doors for the business. “This new investment will breath life into our creativity,
Saltaire to create a state-of-the-art brewery, which we are
allow our five-strong brewing team to create new beers
sure will contribute hugely to the expansion of the Saltaire
we want to drink and draw from our inspiration. The new
brand. We look forward to supporting Saltaire in getting
kit is fantastic, it’s an exciting place to be and it will allow
the very most from their investment, and to playing a part
us to experiment,” he explains.
in their continued success.”
brewersjournal.info
Gordon wants Saltaire to experiment, and also sees
November~December 2017
33
B r e w e ry
To u r
S altaire
“
We have faith in what we do, and in this industry Ewen Gordon, Saltaire Brewery
a subtle rebrand as a possibility in the future, but not if it comprises the brewery’s reputation in the market. “We want to rebrand and we will do it for the right reasons. I’m not interested in imposing ourselves into a new market. It would be more to freshen ourselves up. The core of the business is changing, but it’s priorities and ethics have not. However, we are probably a much younger set of people here now, so the opportunity is there to inspire and refresh but while staying true to ourselves," he says. Saltaire’s permanent range is based around its bestselling Saltaire Blonde and the Cascade Pale Ale. Blonde is a soft, creamy, continental style ale with a gentle hop spiciness. Cascade is an American pale ale packed with resinous, piney, grapefruit flavoured Cascade hops. The brewery splits some of the brews into blending tanks and add essences, syrups and a “bit of magic” to create flavoured fruit brews such as Raspberry Blonde and the popular black IPA, Cascadian Black. For Gordon, he is satisfied, but not unsurprised by the ongoing success of the brewery’s core. He says: “In Yorkshire, Blonde established itself as one of those beers that hit the nail on the head for the time. We appreciate that and built on it, and now it’s a permanent in 120 pubs in Yorkshire, sitting along as a mainstay with Timothy Taylor’s Landlord pale ale. We are in good company!” Elsewhere, Saltaire recently celebrated the success of its Kala Black IPA 6.2%, which was awarded the Championship Trophy in the International Dark Beer competition at the 2017 International Brewing Awards.
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November~December 2017
Brewers Journal
saltaire
b r e w e ry
to u r
“We were immensely proud to have received this amazing accolade. It recognises the creativity, skill and commitment of our brewing team to produce world-class
Core Beers
beers for drinkers to enjoy. It also pays tribute to all those that have inspired, challenged and supported Saltaire to become an international award-winning brewery – our colleagues, customers, fans, suppliers and competitors make this a tremendous global industry to be part of,” he said at the time.
Cascade Pale Ale American style pale ale with the floral aromas and strong bitterness of Cascade and Centennial hops. (4.8 % ABV)
But now, Gordon is only looking forward and he’s excited about the new beers Saltaire can produce, and the new drinkers it can attract. “We’ve produced many, many different beers. More than people would expect. We’ve produced 9.5% Double IPAs to Belgian Reds but each time, it has to be for the right reasons. Sometimes I feel that we’re not that far from
Cascadian Black A black IPA with the roast malt flavours of a stout and the bitterness and fresh pine and citrus grapefruit flavours of the Cascade hop. Currently unavailable. (4.8 % ABV)
someone throwing an old shoe or sock into the beer and at that point, things will have to get back to basics,” he says. “But we’ll never be part of that conversation. Fair enough, others do what they want and they can do it well but it’s not for us. I’m more interested in the finer details, quality and consistency. You can push the envelope, sure.
Saltaire Blonde A straw coloured light ale with soft malt flavours, delicately hopped with Czech and German hop varities. (4.0 % ABV)
Just make sure the beer is still good with it." He adds: “The brewing industry had developed into this fantastic thing. People are pushing boundaries and there is a real enthusiasm for beer. We want to help add to that because we can sit within a number of camps. We don’t need a sub-brand, to sit in with newer breweries. “We’ve had an intense period of investment and it is
Saltaire Pride A classic English pale bitter, with light malt base and spicy fruitiness from the Challenger, Bramling Cross and Cascade hops. (3.9 % ABV)
going to be a nice place to be in 18 months time. We’ve done this because we have such faith in the industry and what we do. That will lead us forward.” u
brewersjournal.info
November~December 2017
35
M e e t
th e
B r e w e r
L udlow
B rewery
Going for Gold For somewhere like Ludlow, which has a long tradition and history of brewing, drinkers were bereft of locally, wellproduced beer for decades. That was until Ludlow Brewery opened its doors in May 2006. Since then the brewery, owned by Gary Walters, has gone from strength-to-strength but Walters’ views, and approach to brewing, have remained constant. And that's to produce a wellmade range of core beers that people can rely on each and every time.
Ludlow Gold is the brewery’s biggest selling beer, accounting for 65 per cent of its sales. Walters heads up the 20-barrel plant, which produces 3,200 litres per brew. Of the five times it brews, ably assisted by brewers Chris Davies, and Joe Jacks, three of those are Gold. Gary, who designed Gold, believes the beer’s popularity lies in it being a classic British ale. “It’s a very traditional pale gold recipe made with old Noble Variety Hops, Goldings and Fuggles, which are grown locally at Little Lambswick Farm, Tenbury Wells. The Gold’s popularity shows there’s still a strong call for a really good traditional golden ale. It’s well-balanced with subtle aromas,” he explains. Walters adds: “I designed all the beers, using a tasting panel. I can’t pick a favourite beer as they are all so
by tim sheahan
different, sometimes I want to drink a pale hoppy beer, other times I might feel like a nice dark malty stout so
W
it changes from week to week! I think the beauty of our e don’t normally bother with
range of six ales is that they are varied enough to suit all
awards, to be fair. I’m too busy
tastes; we offer a couple of pale modern ales, which are
brewing beer, pottering away
more citrussy, and also the more traditional style.”
doing my own thing. That’s where I’m more comfortable if I’m honest,”
explains Ludlow Brewery owner Gary Walters. With that in mind, you have to assume Walters has
Ludlow Brewery has come a long way since Gold marked the team’s first brew back in May 2006. Started by Gary and Alison Walters, it only took until September of that year for the brewery to pick up its first awards at
been feeling a little uncomfortable of late. Gold, which
the CAMRA Severn Valley Railway beer festival. Walters
is brewed by the south Shropshire-based brewery, took
followed on the release of Gold with beers that included
bronze in the prestigious Golden Ale category of the
The Boiling Well, Best and a Black Knight that also
Champion Beer of Britain 2017 awards.
scooped accolades across the country.
These awards took place at the Campaign for Real
But after having successfully established the brewery
Ale (CAMRA’s) Great British Beer Festival in London and
in an old malting building on Corve Street, it became
Ludlow’s success was the latest accolade it has picked
apparent during 2008 that capacity and space were
up for its beers in recent years.
becoming issues. However, an abandoned railway shed
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November~December 2017
Brewers Journal
Gary Walters: "I'm most comfortable brewing beer"
ludlow
on the same site as the current building presented an opportunity that was too good to ignore. A planning application swiftly followed and work on creating the new brewery began during the summer of that year. The project was supported with assistance from The
brewery
M e e t
th e
b r e w e r
And in bottle is where Walters wants his small-pack sales to stay. “I’m not convinced by cans, if I am honest. I have had too many cans that I haven't finished and it just seems that many of them are generally poor quality. My feeling
Rural Development Programme for England and the
is that a lot of the beers haven’t got the specification to
EU and a Shropshire Tourism Business Grant (funded
be canned, which is a mistake. But when you couple
by Shropshire Council) and brewing started at the new
that with a canning process that isn't up to scratch, then
brewery in December 2010.
something is going to give. Of course, there are some
Walters is a carpenter by trade. He had spent 20 or so years in the building trade and, in his own words, “always loved a good beer with my wife”. Time spent at pubs and beer festivals drove him on to start brewing in his garage where he developed his passion for beer. “Like many people I took that route and went on
amazing looking cans on the shelves these days, but it’s whats inside that counts,” he stresses. Walters’ uncertainty over cans also extends to keg beers, too. He explains: “Too many people drink a so-called craft beer in keg and just because it is chilled, they can’t pass
from there. But it didn’t take long for me to get fed up
a negative comment on it. Like in can, there is a lot of
of brewing every Saturday to only end up with 44 pints
poor quality beer around but people are simply afraid to
though to be honest, I think I only did that five times or so
be critical of it. To put it bluntly, too many recipes haven’t
before deciding enough was enough!” he proclaims
been developed properly but they are still sent out to
By his own admission, Walters said the first day after
market regardless. It’s not on. When you are producing
deciding upon his new career, things seemed “bloody
beer, regardless of its intended vessel, you shouldn’t
crazy”.
mess around. Simply as that.”
He explains: “For a whole day, it seemed bloody crazy.
It’s that no-nonsense approach that applies to how
I was looking at converting a old immersion tank but it
Ludlow sells its beers, too. Opting to market the bulk of its
was such a palaver that we went for a 6bbl plant instead.
beers in a roughly 50-mile radius.
That was the best move we probably made early on. We
“It’s something I am very passionate about as I am anti
were very lucky finding that original maltings and all we
beer miles. That’s why we’ve never done anything on the
had to do was to persuade the site owner that a brewing
export side of things, either. It’s crazy, I don’t want to go
operation was a good use for it. It was a beautiful old
abroad and drink UK beers. I want to go and enjoy what it
place but after four years we simply ran out of space. I
is produced there,” he says.
found myself making little box rooms within other little
“There is enough diversity in global brewing not to
box rooms and there were barrels all over the yard. It was
require me to drink UK beers when I am on holiday. Look,
craft as well as graft! So the time came that we had to
I haven’t even enjoyed everything from this country yet,
move on.”
I don’t see the point of going to another place and not
The current Ludlow site is an aesthetically-pleasing facility characterised by high-arched ceilings, wooden beams and a setup that gives visitors an in-depth insight
wanting to sample the diverse numbers of beers they are likely to have on offer.” You’d be hard-pushed though to work out when
into the brewing operation. The building houses a
Walters will next find the time to enjoy a trip overseas
20-barrel Moeschle brewhouse while bottling is handled
though, with him and the team working as hard as the day
by Edwin Holdens Bottling.
the brewery opened.
“We used to do our own bottle conditioning but it was
“We want to continue going steady while taking deep
very difficult because you could go to a local cafe and see
breathes. We’re doing 75 barrels a week and we continue
the beer wasn’t being poured right. That really jarred with
to grow. The business is profitable but we all work really
me so we decided to down the pasteurised route with
hard. I was here at 6am last Saturday, and the same on
Holdens, which is a great family run business,” he says.
Sunday. We are all hands-on but that’s the way we like it.” u
brewersjournal.info
November~December 2017
39
Fo r e i g n
Fo cu s
founders
Brew for the right reasons Founders has quietly and confidently become the 10th largest craft brewery in the US. On course to output 445,000 US brewers barrels in 2017, it exports to 25 countries. We caught up them in the biggest of these export markets, the UK, to hear about the road ahead.
much bigger celebration. Mull was debating the issue with Dave Engbers, who co-founded the Michigan brewery with Mike Stevens some 20 years ago. A brewery that is now the 10th largest craft brewery in the US, on course to output around 445,000 US brewers barrels in 2017. However, as Founders continues to enjoy great success in the US, the duo have made a brief visit to the UK to catch up with some key accounts, meet some new faces and to simply enjoy some new beer while at the
by tim sheahan
same time, introduce more people to their own brews. Founders exports to 25 countries across the globe with the UK its biggest export market. Its charge on these
"Did you get that email this morning?”
shores is led by All Day IPA, its session IPA that is popping up on an increasing number of keg fonts and in cans, too.
“The one about the Harvest Ale on tap? Yeah, I did. I didn’t know it was due on just yet!”
But it’s not just the UK that has taken to the beer, which joined the brewery’s year-round lineup in 2012. Only this summer, the beer was the most ‘checked-in’ beer of
“Yeah, me neither. But I suppose we’d normally tap it for the
the summer on popular beer info sharing app Untappd,
Harvest party but we’re not having that this year.”
notching an impressive 64,795 check ins.
“True, but I want to try it. I’m p*ssed!”
growing presence in the UK, to drinkers relating to styles
D
that have resonated with UK tastebuds for many years.
Mull attributes the beer’s popularity, especially its
ave Engbers and Alec Mull are in London
“The UK has been responsible for inspiring a lot of US
but at that moment, the only place they
breweries. All we’ve done is Chuck Norris the s**t out of
want to be is back home at their brewery
them and made them our own,” he says wryly.
sampling the anticipated annual release of Harvest Ale, its 7.6% wet-hopped beer.
See, as Alec Mull, vice president of brewery operations
at Founders points out, the special beer would normally be poured for the first time at the annual harvest party.
“But I think drinkers, especially in the Northern hemisphere have often been able to relate what we’ve done in the US and vice versa. That’s one reason while All Day IPA has proved popular and we’re thankful for that.” Other overarching reasons Mull and Engbers agree
But that particular occasion in 2017 is making way for
on us that quality, consistency and reliable packaging
the brewery’s 20th anniversary which will be, arguably, a
that has ensured the beer Founders sells, especially its
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November~December 2017
Brewers Journal
Founders: Mike Stevens & Dave Engbers Photo: Founders brewing Co
brewersjournal.info
November~December 2017
41
Fo r e i g n
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Fo cu s
founders
November~December 2017
Brewers Journal
founders
fo r e i g n
fo cu s
session IPA, reach drinkers in the way they intended, even
before it all got up and running the following year. Since
if consumption is taking place two or three months after it
then, it has introduced the 15-pack to the craft market,
was packaged.
formats that have included its PC Pils, Mosaic Promise
“Packaging is not sexy, let’s be honest. But when it comes to high-quality packaging lines, when and where
and Azacca beers. Engbers says exports, moving into cans has aided
possible, you simply have to invest in them. I know
Founders’ growth further, as has its tie-up with Mahou
brewers prefer to talk about IBUs, hops and other fun
San Miguel, which acquired a 30% stake in the business in
things rather than packaging but it is so critical to pay that
December 2014.
attention if you intend your beer to get to the consumer the way you intended,” explains Mull. He adds: “We need to change the dialogue so that the
He says: “We’ve grown from a Michigan Brewery to a national brewery. We’re still young and we’ve been growing at a pretty aggressive clip. But a few years ago
brewing community focuses on packaging and I admit,
we looked at things and knew maintaining growth in
that is not a simple issue that can be changed overnight
excess of 60% would become a challenge as the growth
for many, many reasons. However if you have the money,
rate in the US was slowing down.
look at that side of things. “I argued many years ago that we needed to invest
“That’s why we started looking more at the export side of things and now we export to around 25 countries. The
in a good packaging line rather than expand on the
partnership with San Miguel made sense for all parties
brewhouse side. And we’ve never looked back.”
because they knew how much expertise we had in the
Mull argues that quality packaging processes are imperative and Engbers adds that the type of beer you package is all-important, too.
US craft beer market while their knowledge in many other fields has been incredibly beneficial.” And although Founders itself is celebrating its 20th
“I was in the UK a few months before this visit and I
anniversary, Engbers says it’s significantly easier to open
simply love the pubs here. The culture is very different
a brewery in 2017 than it was for him and Stevens back in
to what we have in the US. But I also visited a number of
the late nineties.
smaller breweries too and each one was talking about their latest New England-style hazy IPA,” he says. Engbers adds: “Hey, this is great if you’re serving
“Access to market makes it a hell of a lot easier to open a brewery nowadays but unfortunately with that, we’re seeing people open breweries for the wrong reasons.
that beer over the bar from the brewery, or if it’s being
They are just trying to make money as quickly as possible
consumed shortly after. But for a brewery like us,
in case this whole thing could disappear,” he says.
packaging a beer like that makes me really nervous and
However, Mull has more faith in his brewing brethren.
we wouldn’t do it because if you’re packaging beers that
“I’d hope that it’s only a very small percentage that
are going to be good for up to 120 days, that isn’t a style
have that mindset when it comes to opening a brewery.
you should be looking at.
The people I know started brewing because it’s what
“I think the New England phase will be a short-lived
they wanted to do for the rest of their lives. But equally, it
trend, just don’t ask me where the next one is. Pale Ales,
amuses me when people tell me that they are opening
maybe? Either way, we won’t jeopardise quality and
a brewery but only plan to do it part-time. You’re soon
consumer experience either way by putting out beers we
going to realise that that will simply not be the case,” says
shouldn’t.”
Mull with a laugh.
Mull believes Founders are not alone in this approach either, he says. “Working for Founders has made me feel really good that we don’t compromise on what we do. But nobody wants to take the opposite approach to things. The vast
He adds: “It’s a lot of hard work and it’s a labour of love. Some people don’t realise how difficult it will be. But it you really want to do it, go ahead, give it your all and give it your best. “That’s why we spent a massive amount on packaging
majority of brewers are passionate people that want to
because we made the decision to compete with the
make the best beer they can. They may not always have
Sierra Nevadas, New Belgiums and Bell’s. That would
right tools to do so, or even the knowledge at times but
help acheive our goal.
underneath it all, they want to do the best,” he adds. Founders made the decision to move into cans in 2014
brewersjournal.info
“We knew what we had to do and we did it. So have your own goals and go for them.” u
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43
s c i e n c e
yeast
Repitch and Reap the Benefits
When most brewers are starting out, they rely on dry yeast cultures for the bulk of production. Dry yeast is very easy to use, and affordable to the point that it does not need to be reused. However, as breweries and brewers grow, they often find themselves seeking out the wider range of flavours available through liquid yeast cultures, or the other benefits of liquid yeast slurry reuse.
R
eusing yeast presents possible benefits to both the brewer and the owner. The most obvious reason to reuse yeast is to reduce the cost of each brew. There are several other practical benefits to reusing yeast
within the brewer - many yeast strains exhibit increased fermentation performance, flocculation, and enhanced flavour compound production when reused (repitched). This improvement is most often observed in the 2nd to 3rd generation of the yeast. For reference, the 2nd generation of a culture is the batch of beer made with cells harvested from the initial pitch. If performed correctly, there are no downsides.
by Nate Ferguson
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However, poor/incorrect practices in yeast management
Brewers Journal
yeast
brewersjournal.info
s c i e n c e
November~December 2017
45
s c i e n c e
yeast
can cause problems. The most notable issues are
harvested. Tunneling is when the yeast cake does not
contamination and yeast health & pitching
slide into an opening below the cone and instead forms
Contamination: If a beer is contaminated, then the
a passage in which beer begins to travel through causing
yeast culture will also be contaminated. If you harvest
a loss of beer and a reduced yield of yeast. Tunneling is
the contaminated culture and use it to inoculate another
more prominent in some yeast strains and is impacted by
batch, then the contamination will be present in the
tank design and cleaning regime.
repitched beer. Sources of contamination can be from
Collecting the yeast into a brink: Now that you are
process, equipment failure, or contaminated ingredients (fruit, etc). Yeast Health & Pitching: Ensuring healthy yeast is critical for brewers. Without a microscope and viability stain, it is not possible to directly assess the quantity and
yeast cropping
quality of a yeast culture. As a general rule, it is always better to overpitch than underpitch since underpitching is more likely to produce unpleasant flavours than overpitching. Escarpment Laboratories recommends using proper microscope technique to count and analyze your yeast
Method 1: Crop very slowly, allowing for gravity to induce tunnel collapse. This method is slower and does not ensure as complete of a crop, but it is much easier in practice.
culture and can advise where to acquire the equipment to do so.
Three main stages of Yeast Management
S
tage 1: Yeast Cropping. Understanding the Layers: Yeast is often cropped from the bottom of the conical fermentor cone after fermentation
and cooling to ensure that fermentation has come to completion and cells have flocculated out of the beer and sedimented at the bottom. This practices ends up
Method 2: Remove the beer from the top of the cake via a racking arm or standpipe and then remove the yeast cake (this process is often benefited with CO2 agitation after beer has been removed). This ensures near complete removal of the yeast cone however more labour is required. If you have yield problems with method 1, then we recommend method 2.
pro tips
producing “3 layers� within the yeast cone which need to be managed. Layer 1 is the Trub/Dead Yeast at the bottom which contains trub (protein) which precipitates from the wort during fermentation, as well as the earliest flocculating yeast.. This portion of the cone is normally darker brown to beige in colour and must be dumped from the cone before harvesting. Layer 2 is the Ideal & Healthy Yeast which is composed of healthy, fit for fermentation and dense to moderately dense culture. This region will be a light beige to tan in colour in lighter beers and darker in stouts/porters. This is the section of the cone you will harvest. Layer 3, the top layer, is the Poor Flocculating and Thin Yeast which is normally less useful for repitching. Methods for removing the yeast: Removing the yeast
u Yeast slurry contains CO2 which causes the yeast to expand/foam. It is never recommended to fill a brink to the top to account for expansion. u If tunneling occurs, stopping the flow and allowing for settling will mitigate the issue. Make sure while settling occurs that the end of the collection hose is capped or shut and the brink is covered/ free of environmental contamination. u When removing yeast from a tank it is always recommended to ensure 1-4 PSI of CO2 pressure to ensure a vacuum or oxidation of beer does not occur.
from the tank is easy, however there is one variable you must keep in mind to ensure enough cells can be
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yeast
s c i e n c e
ready to harvest you need a device to hold the yeast -
meaning that the longer you store your cells the less
commonly called a brink. A yeast brink is simply an easily
nutrients the cells will have when they are added to
sanitizable container used to contain the cropped yeast
the next fermentation. Cells with low nutrients reserves
under CO2 but not under pressure. This can be as simple
when pitched have a higher risk of producing off flavour
as a clean and unscratched sanitized plastic bucket, a
and/or stuck fermentation and due to this it is always
stainless steel bucket with tight fitting lid, a converted
recommended to use the cells as soon as possible.
Cornelius or Sanke keg up to expensive custom built
Different cells will be impacted by storage different. Yeast
sanitary brinks.
strains like Saisons can be stored for long periods of time while other strains such as English Ale yeasts cannot.
Yeast storage
Using the yeast sooner is always better. When do I know when the cells are no longer useful?
H
This is very strain-dependent, however there are a few
ow to Store Yeast: Once yeast is collected, the
general rules. We recommend using a microscope and
slurry must be kept cold in a walk in fridge (we
viability stain (either methylene blue or trypan blue) to
recommend between 0ºC and 5ºC) and away
determine viability. If the culture is less than 60-80%
from oxygen and sunlight. While in storage it is important
viable (strain dependent) it is likely time to dump the cells.
to prevent yeast stress: Head Pressure - Yeast should
Pitching yeast
not be stored under excess CO2 pressure. If using a pressurized brink, we recommend 5psi at most. Oxygen contact - Oxygen is a trigger for the cells to reenter respiration and leave dormancy. Exposing cells to oxygen will prime the cells for fermentation before it occurs, reducing the lifespan of the cells. Alcohol - Alcohol
H
ow to Pitch yeast and how much to use: How you pitch yeast is going to be based on what you are storing the yeast in - kegs are great for this
will stress out yeast cells and due to this it is normally
reason as you can push the yeast with CO2; It is important
recommended to harvest yeast from beer in the 4-6%
to depressurize the remaining yeast after use. If using
ABV range; there are some exceptions.
buckets that cannot be pressurized then your options
Can I store yeast in the cone of my fermentor? If your fermentor has glycol jackets on the cone, yes you can. A brink is however usually recommended as the
become limited to pouring yeast into the fermentor via a manway. There are two main ways brewers pitch yeast: Pour
additional head pressure from the liquid above the tank,
yeast into the ferment (before or after wort is present; Or
residual CO2, low nutrients, higher alcohol and IBU
inject yeast into the brew during transfer
content of the cone make it a non-ideal place for yeast
Pouring yeast into the fermentor. This is the most
to remain dormant. Harvesting the cells into a brink is
common method for small breweries as it is simple, does
recommended to reduce these issues.
not require a complex system or stainless and allows
How long can I store my yeast? The main question
for sanitary buckets to be used instead of a costly yeast
everyone has when storing yeast is “how long can I store
brink. There are a few measures that must be taken into
my yeast before it is no good”
account for this method so that you do not harm the cells.
This question is best answered when you relate it to
If adding yeast before knocking out make sure your
food. If you asked “how long is my soup in the fridge good
wort cooling is on max and slowly bring the wort online. If
for” the answer is always “sooner is better”; same goes for
wort cooling is not on or is not sufficient as soon as wort
yeast.
enters a yeasted fermentor the wort will heat and kill
To explain why this is you must realize that yeast is
some or all of the yeast. A way to consistently get around
not frozen or still while dormant - it is still alive and still
this is to add your yeast after the tank has been filled.
consuming its own nutrient reserves. Yeast cells have
However, if the fermentor does not have a top manway
2 main nutrient reserves - glycogen and trehalose.
or your yeast pitch is large, then this becomes infeasible
Glycogen is the main nutrient source, while trehalose
and/or dangerous.
provides rigidity to ensure physical stability. As the yeasts cells are dormant they will consume these nutrients,
brewersjournal.info
Inject yeast in the brew during transfer. This is the most common method for adding yeast to large tanks
November~December 2017
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s c i e n c e
yeast
of wort. To do this you must pressurize the yeast brink, attach a valve to the brink and connect it to the chilled wort entering the fermentor. It is recommended for
about the author
this applications that a pump is not used however if unavoidable a positive displacement or diaphragm pump are appropriate. To ensure flow it is important to pressurize the tank to the proper PSI; if your pump places
Nate Ferguson is the co-founder of Escarpment Laboratories and an instructor at Niagara College, Canada.
10PSI onto the line and your brink is pressurized to 10PSI then no yeast will leave the device. If no yeast is leaving then it is recommended you increase the pressure on the brink. A scale is normally used to measure the amount
what you as a brewer are trying to do and how the strain
of slurry entering the wort - as the slurry is removed the
you are working with operates. In general English and
weight will decrease allowing for controllable pitching.
Belgian strains are comfortable at the lower end of the
How much yeast should I pitch? In order to determine
range, while high gravity beers and Lagers should be
the amount of yeast to add to the tank we need to first
pitched at the high end of the range, especially when
determine a few parameters of the yeast - Its viability and
repitching.
its concentration. Viability is the % of the cells within the
What else can/should I do while pitching yeast? While
population that are alive. For example, if I have 100 cells
repitching yeast it is very important to oxygenate your
however only 90 of them are alive our culture is said to
wort just prior to or during yeast pitching. Oxygenation is
be 90% viable. Concentration is the quantity of cells per
commonly performed with a sintered stone (carbonation
mL of slurry. This is important as different cultures will
stone) in the wort stream between heat exchanger and
flocculate more or less intensely resulting in different
the fermentor. The biggest problem that occurs with this
slurry thicknesses.
process tends to be a lack of a flow meter for oxygen gas
For example, English strains will becomes much more compact and tightly flocced than Lager strains. If we are working with a thin slurry then we will have to add more
volume determination; normally a PSI gauge is all that is present. A common technique in many breweries is
litres of slurry to equal the same cell count of a thick
acid washing for the removal of potential brewery
slurry.
contaminations from the yeast culture. Resources for
The general rule of thumb is 1L of slurry per hL of beer,
yeast washing can be found online, and typically involve
however this is not an accurate measure as it does not
exposure to phosphoric acid or chlorine dioxide to help
take into account viability or cell concentration. For these
reduce bacterial load. In general, if good sanitation
reasons cell counting is highly recommended as part of
practices are followed and yeast reuse is limited to 10-15
the brewery yeast management program.
generations, yeast washing is not necessary. You should only harvest yeast from beers that
How much yeast?
turned out the way you wanted them and are free of fermentation off flavours. If the beer has noticeable off flavours, do not collect yeast from that tank. Additionally,
T
he amount of cells you need to add for a brew is
yeast should not be harvested from sour beers as the low
going to be different for each brew. A formula for
pH environment is non-ideal for yeast health.
the amount of cells needed for a ferment is given
Using the information in this guide, any brewer should be able to familiarize themselves with the best practices
here:
0.5-1.25 million cells/mL/â °P
and practical considerations to yeast repitching. Yeast
With this equation we can see that the larger the
repitching, when implemented properly, can reduce costs
volume of wort (mL) the more cells we are going to need.
if yeast is used for multiple, and significantly reduce tank
As we increase the gravity of the brew we will also need
time, which also creates greater operational efficiency in
more cells. The rule of 0.5-1.25 million cells is based on
the cellar.
48
November~December 2017
Brewers Journal
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ENTER A NEW YEAST ADVENTURE
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date s
&
e v e nt s
events
Brewers C ON G R E S S
The inaugural Brewers Congress, presented by The Brewers Journal, takes place in London this November
3/11/17 - 5/11/17
Celtic Beer Festival
Northern Monk, Leeds www.northernmonkbrewco.com
St Austell Brewery www.staustellbrewery.co.uk
10/11/17 - 11/11/17
Working Beer Festival Woking Leisure Centre www.wokingbeerfestival.co.uk 16/11/17 - 17/11/17
hull real ale festival Hull Minster www.hull.camra.org.uk 24/11/17 - 25/11/17
Bath Beer Festival Widcombe Social Club, Bath www.bathandborderscamra.org.uk
50
25/11/2017
Dark City
November~December 2017
27/11/17
brewers congress One Great George Street, London congress.brewersjournal.info 05/12/17 - 09/12/17
Pig's Ear Beer & Cider Festival The Round Chapel, Hackney www.pigsear.org.uk 16/12/17 - 21/12/17
Essen Christmas Beer Festival Essen, Belgium www.kerstbierfestival.be
Brewers Journal
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The premier gaThering of The professional brewing indusTry
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27 November 2017 - 8am to 5pm oNe great george street, LoNdoN
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