The Brewers Journal November 2018, iss 9 vol 4

The magazine for the professional brewing industry

Brewers J o u r n a l

November 2018 | Volume 4, issue 9 ISSN 2059-6669

burnt mill

hOW A BADLEY BUSINESS BECAME THE BEST NEW BREWERY IN ENGLAND 42 | ram brewery: keeping brewing in wandsworth

51 | collective arts: EYEING GROWH IN THE UK MARKET

58 | The brewing and best practice behind brut ipa

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le ad e r

The old and the new

Y

ou are not going mad, and we haven't made an abstract design decision with this issue.

Instead, we have two covers for this edition as it's nearly that time of year again, Brewers Congress time!

There's a whole lowdown on this year's event to be found at the back (front?) of this issue. I'm thrilled with the incredibly talented brewers, teachers, trainers, manufacturers, suppliers, and everyone in-between that has signed up for Brewers Congress.

It's all set to be a great day jam-packed full of excellent talks, engaging panel discussions and industry dialogue. That's before we've even mentioned the great food and drink, too.

So if you're reading this issue at the Brewers Congress, welcome! Otherwise, what are you waiting for? Wield the power of the World Wide Web and navigate your browsers to the following address: congress.brewersjournal.info and get your tickets there.

Away from the wealth of planning ahead of the Brewers Congress on the 28th November, it has been incredibly rewarding to visit some fantastic breweries during these last few weeks.

Hawkshead Brewery opened the doors of its new Flookburgh site, trebling its annual production capacity as the craft brewer drives UK and international growth.

The brewery will initially produce up to 240 beer barrels (8,640 gallons or 69,000 pints) of premium beer each week, with this set to increase as it gears up to export its Hawkshead Lager and Hawkshead Windermere Pale across Eastern and Western Europe, the Americas and Asia.

“Hawkshead’s core range has always had a really strong regional following and to be able to further expand its reach throughout the remainder of the UK and overseas is exciting," the company told us.

“We're bringing strong competition to the craft beer

brewersjournal.info

editor's choice Andrew Paterson, technical sales and support for Lallemand UK, deconstructs Brut IPA, and best practices behind brewing one yourself- page 58

category globally, backed by ethical marketing activity and a reputable global infrastructure."

Thanks to head brewer Matt Clarke and the team for an incredibly informative day.

I regrettably never got to see Young's in Wandsworth, London in its full glory. Visiting the area now, it can be difficult to imagine the days where 300 were employed on site. But thanks to John Hatch, a brewer at Young's, brewing has remained on site, and will continue to do so. I endeavour to tell his fascinating story from page 42 onwards.

Thanks also to the team at Burnt Mill Brewery. The Suffolk outfit is producing some excellent beers and already has industry recognition on their side. It won't go to their heads, though. And I look forward to seeing what they produce next.

Until next time!

Tim Sheahan Editor

November 2018

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contents 17

37

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29

42

Cover story 29 - Burnt Mill has quietly gone about establishing itself as one of the most promising breweries in England. They're now looking at the next stage of their evolution.

dear john 17 - Large established brewers and smaller businesses have much to learn from each other.

And by doing so, everyone benefits, explains John Keeling, former head brewer of Fuller’s

COMMENTS 20 - Resdev on choosing the right flooring 22 - Premier Leasing & Finance on leasing 24 - Brewlab on the industry pitfalls to avoid 26 - Catax look at R&D tax credits

meet the brewer | ram brewery 42 - It has been 12 years since Young's and its brewery left London. But thanks to brewer John Hatch, brewing has never stopped in Wandsworth

crossing continents | collective arts 51 - For Matt Johnston, co-founder of Collective Arts Brewing, beer should be both an art and a science. And that's the approach he takes to business in Hamilton, Ontario.

sector | brewhouses 37- Investing in a brewhouse is one of biggest decisions you'll make for your brewery. So therefore it’s key to know the specification that works for you, and the beer you will be producing on your prized new kit

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November 2018

science | brut ipa 58- Lallemand UK give us the lowdown on Brut IPA, the science behind them and the best practices to follow if you plan to brew one at your own brewery

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SIGNATURE BREW eyes expansion with NEW BREWERY S

ignature Brew is in the process of raising £400,000 via crowdfunding to help fund a new brewery.

The move, which will triple the brewery’s capacity from

day one, also enables the business to further invest in the East London community it calls home.

A new brewery will help Signature Brew meet the ever-increasing demand for its beers and according to co-founder Tom Bott, such kit will “future-proof” the business, too.

The new brewhouse will also complement the imminent addition of a new canning line to its current Leyton home.

Bott and the team had initially planned to install the new brewhouse within the units in Leyton but after investigating every avenue, the business made the decision to consolidate all of its operations in a new facility.

“We want to remain a brewery, not a factory. That’s not what we’re about,” says Bott. “We had planned to remain here but it simply wasn’t feasible and extremely complicated.”

He added: “But the site we’ve found offers up so many opportunities. It was also essential that the new facility allowed us to remain in the local area.

“We have a great team and we didn’t want to put them through a major upheaval. It would result in a disconnect

Investment in the company’s brewing operations follow on from the successful September opening of its maiden taproom in Haggerston, London.

And with that under their belts, Bott says Signature Brew plan other openings, too.

“I think the Haggerston taproom is a great

from this community and that’s not something any of us

advertisement for what we’re about. We’re already looking

wanted.”

at taproom number two and along with the brewery,

Signature Brew is offering equity in the business in return for investment from £10 up to £250,000.

New kits aims to change face of homebrewing

A

reinforce our commitment to the community we call home,” he added.”

new exciting technology you only really understand what is possible when you release it to the world.

“Breweries have already come back with multiple uses

new system is aiming to "change the face” of

for the Minibrew machinery outside its obvious use as a

homebrewing while also offering R&D opportunities

test batch brewery – things like deliberately creating off

to breweries.

Minibrew is an all-in-one 5l system operated via the

flavours for training and process refinement.

“I’m sure there are many more uses we haven’t thought

cloud that can be used to brew styles such as lagers and

of on the horizon, and that’s what’s so exciting about

IPAs to imperial stouts and kettle sours.

putting this state-of-the-art brew tech in the hands of the

The system, which is now it its final testing phase, is currently being tested by breweries such as Brew by

experts.”

Other UK breweries are also being invited onto the

Numbers, Gipsy Hill, Northern Monk, Pressure Drop, Siren

Minibrew platform while it crowdfunds on Crowdcube.

and Verdant.

That deal gets you equity, a machine with three kegs and

Ben Rymer, Minibrew UK lead, explained: “As with all

brewersjournal.info

exclusive access to the beta cloud platform.

November 2018

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Magic Rock in UK canning first M

agic Rock has installed the UK’s first Innofill CAN compact line from KHS.

The new line represents an £850,000 investment and

has been facilitated with the help of HSBC and HSBC Asset Finance.

The line will deliver industry-leading speed and pack quality to the craft beer sector and the flexibility to pack in two different can sizes as well as label smaller runs of special beers in-line.

Canned beer sales continue on an upward trajectory at the brewery. 53000 cases were sold in 2016, 79000 in 2017 and 2018’s sales already matching 2017 by the middle of October.

The new filling line will enable further sales growth in the can sector by allowing Magic Rock to fill more cans

a completely new filling system with our Innofill Can

faster and more efficiently with improved stability and

DVD series. Developed for larger capacities, we’ve now

shelf life.

scaled down this technology to meet the stringent quality

Richard Burhouse, managing director at Magic Rock, explained: “We had a number of priorities when choosing

demands of respected craft brewers like Magic Rock.

“With its efficient CO2 purging system the machine

our new canning facility, the first was quality closely

ensures extremely low oxygen pickup. Thanks to its

followed by footprint and then price. KHS delivered on all

patented purging process it also consumes about 30%

three fronts, with industry leading quality standards, the

less carbon dioxide than conventional systems.

smallest footprint of any comparable line and competitive

"One of the innovative features of the Innofill CAN Compact is its extremely hygienic design. This has

pricing.

"The delivery and installation was completed in

eliminated the need for water lubrication, simplified

a professional and efficient manner and the line has

cleaning and dramatically improved service life. KHS uses

performed impeccably. If you’re looking for an integrated

PTFE materials in the filling valve, for example to seal the

packaging solution I’d have no hesitation recommending

filling valve piston and in the gas membranes.

KHS for your project.”

Andy Carter, general sales manager for KHS in the UK & Ireland, added: “Four years ago, at KHS, we launched

Brixton Brewery calls on Kemtile for flooring install

“Flavour carryover when changing the product to be filled is eliminated, a feature of special interest to Magic Rock who brew a large number of different beers.”

aesthetic and hygienic floor surface. The company complemented Kagetec BS with Wiedemann-Technik heavy duty stainless-steel drainage gullies and stainless-

B

rixton Brewery has tasked Kemtile with the design

steel kerbs – further strengthening the flooring system as

and installation of its new hygienic flooring system.

well as proving greater impact resistance.

Brixton Brewery, which employs 15 staff, has recently

Jez Galaun, co-founder of Brixton Brewery, said:

moved into a new 1,400m2 site around the corner from

“Opening a second, larger premises was at the heart of

its original railway arch brewery. The move enabled the

our ambitious expansion plan. We’d outgrown our original

brewery to increase brewing capacity from 12,000 pints to

brewery and our new site has enabled us to significantly

60,000 per week.

increase our capacity whilst gaining even greater control

In response to Brixton Brewery’s brief, Kemtile specified the Kagetec BS system - installing 600m2 of 18mm thick Argelith MV Tech ceramic hexagonal floor tiles.

Ultrasonically vibrated into position, this technique

over the brewing process."

Kemtile’s Richard Kay added: “In recent years we’ve earned ourselves an enviable reputation amongst the nation’s brewers and I’m very happy to say that we’re

eliminates air voids underneath and compacts the

increasingly becoming the ‘go-to’ partner when it comes

bedding screed to provide an extremely even, robust,

to brewery flooring design and installation."

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November 2018

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Fuller’s task Gravity Systems for new pilot brewery

F

uller’s has opened the doors to its new brewery store, which houses a brewhouse supplied and installed by

Gravity Systems.

The Beers

The system, which was installed earlier this year, features an infusion mash tun, a copper/whirlpool with an external wort boiler, four fermentation tanks and two bright beer tanks.

The new plant produces around 10 barrels (40 firkins) of beer per brew which can then be packaged in bottle (by hand), cask or keg.

Brewing commenced in August and offers its brewers the opportunity to create some more experimental beers in small quantities.

Hayley Marlor, one of Fuller’s shift brewers, has been managing the installation and the first brews in the pilot brewery.

She said: “This has been a really exciting project

The first five beers to be brewed and packaged in the plant are: u Beer One (7.0% ABV)- a strong ale based on the Golden Pride recipe u Galaxy Pale (4.0%ABV)- a pale ale made with Galaxy hops u Grapefruit IPA (5.7% ABV)- made with real grapefruit peel and juice u Thai Stout (4.8% ABV)- made with Thai spices u New England IPA (5.5% ABV)- which consisted of experimenting with the use of Cryo Hops for the first time

to work on. From the moment the guys from Gravity Systems arrived with the first delivery of parts and being involved in the install, to bottling the first brew – Beer One – this has been a fascinating learning curve as a brewer.

the smallest batch we could brew was 160 barrels (625

“Fuller’s has been calling out for a pilot brewery for

firkins), so we tended always to play safe with flavours.

years and with the new shop creating suitable space, we

"We will be using the new brewery for trial-testing

finally have one. I feel so lucky to be able to work on this

different raw materials such as new malts, hops, herbs,

and I can’t wait to see what my brewing colleagues and I

spices and fruits. We can test out new equipment and

create in this fantastic new plant.”

procedures before scaling up and we can attempt beer

Fuller’s head brewer, Georgina Young, added: “This pilot brewery is a fantastic addition to Fuller’s. Prior to this,

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November 2018

styles that have never been brewed here at Chiswick before. It will also play a role in training future brewers.”

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Just what is the relationship between big established brewers and craft brewers?

Large established brewers and smaller businesses have much to learn from each other. And by doing so, everyone benefits, explains John Keeling, former head brewer of Fuller’s.

I think big brewers concentrate on quality and consistency but tend to ignore flavour and character.

Indeed, they remove them in order to control consistency.

This beer might be refreshing but it is not interesting and therefore cannot be a great beer. On the other hand craft brewers are really interested in flavour and character and some ignore quality and consistency. This means that

by john keeling

B

sometimes you fail to recognise the beer you have just bought, clearly a disappointment when it happens.

So I have at my first point (at last).

efore I start, I want to clarify one thing. I

Craft brewers like Fuller’s can learn consistency from

shall refrain from commenting on brewers

big brewers. Indeed I have always told my brewers to

as a business but brewers as people who

visit breweries like Budweiser and Carlsberg to learn their

make beer.

approach to quality but I add a caveat, which is don’t

I would also like to assume that all

throw the baby out with the bathwater in the pursuit of

brewers want to make great beer. This might not be true,

consistency, which means don’t change the character of

but I believe all brewers have this desire.

the beer.

The next thing is to define great beer. Lucky that I have already done this….

I have defined great beer thus: GREAT BEER (notice

So let us look at some areas where a craft brewer can learn from the big brewer.

I have mentioned quality and consistency above but

in capitals therefore assume I think it is important), is

just to emphasise its importance. One of the reasons for

the perfect balance between quality & consistency, and

Fuller’s success was the Fuller’s laboratory team. Without

flavour & character. Quality is the specification of the beer

them and their contribution Fuller’s would not exist today.

and consistency is how often you achieve it. Flavour is the

I recommend all brewers, no matter how small, carry out

choice of the brewer and can be simple or complex. If it’s

routine testing of their beer.

more complex then the greater the difficulty in achieving consistency.

Character is the natural variation that you find in a

There are so many rules and regulations controlling the production of beer. Whether it’s Customs & Excise, export regulations, food safety regulations or just health

biological process. Why does one field of hops grow the

and safety, big brewers have been there and got the

same as a field next to it? Why does a field of barley grow

T-shirt. Ask them for help because most won’t bite.

the same way every year and why does yeast ferment the

There is nothing like experience, especially if you

same way every time? The answer is that they don’t and

haven’t got any. I remember my first product recall and

this all adds up to the character of the beer.

how helpful Guinness were to me, not just with advice but

Just to explain further I want the first three sips of London Pride to tell you that it is London Pride. After that I

they actually carried out an investigation for us.

Then you can look at raw material and utilities. Big

would like it to tell you something that it does not always

brewers get the best prices, chat to them they might

tell you in every pint, and that I believe is the character of

advise you. They will also know how to deal with the water

the drink.

authorities better than you.

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November 2018

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Big brewers also have better engineers than craft

In the craft world, brewers are seen to be the leaders.

brewers. Most engineers I know are very helpful

They are the experts in flavour and make the new

especially to people they like. Have a beer with them and

interesting beers, therefore it is the beer that informs

chat through your problems.

the marketing. In the world of the big brewer, it is the

When it comes to training, Fuller’s have tried to help

marketeer who decides what to make. The finance team

other brewers with their training even to the extent of

decide the cost, then they instruct the brewer to make the

opening our doors and allowing other brewers to work in

beer. Consequently the brewer has a disconnect with the

brewery and learn how we make beer and package beer.

beer they are making

It is not in Fuller’s interest for other brewers to make awful

Finally, the value of the brewery site. All of a sudden

beer, one bad pint can put people off for years. I believe

brewery sites are sexy, especially taprooms, and event

that brewers should help each other.

spaces. The public are welcomed in with open arms. Big

Now let us look at areas that the big brewer can learn from craft brewers.

Firstly, innovation and new product development. Well would any big brewer have come up with IPA as the next big thing?

No. Most new product development was an extension or repackaging of an existing beer. Now that has changed big breweries want to develop beers such IPAs. But in the main they struggle to get it, both from a beer point of view and from a marketing point of view.

Then there's ocial media and excitement. Marketing spend in big brewers is hugely biased towards traditional media. They struggle to use the new media.

Consequently it lacks excitement.

They can also learn from the balance between brewers, marketeers and finance.

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November 2018

Breweries by and large got rid of their interesting sites and turned them into soulless factories. Who got that one right?

So where do Fuller's fit into this?

We brew around 200,000 barrels of beer per year.

Many American craft brewers are bigger than this. I maintain that we are closer in size and philosophy to the craft beer movement than we are to the big international brewers. We feel comfortable in craft beer and that is why we want to belong.

I would like to look at some examples of how we participate in craft brewing.

New breweries can innovate faster than larger established brewers. They can get those beers to market much quicker. However established brewers have a history, something the new craft brewers do not have.

The Past Masters is the way Fuller's makes that history

Brewers Journal

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Whitby Tanks

Craft Brewer Needs - Brewing standard values - Consistency - Quality - Experience

BREWERY TANKS BOUGHT AND SOLD

Big Brewer Needs - Innovation - Challenge - New standards - Excitement

count. The first beer we made was an 1891 XX strong Ale.

Contact Toby Taylor

The next one was an 1893 Porter. Through our search for

sales@whitbytanks.co.uk | 01947 606 237

historical barley varieties we helped generate interest in these, which continues to this day. Does this count as innovation? We could go beyond this though, and brew and taste these beers at the same locations they were brewed and tasted in the past. This brings a tremendous emotional attachment to these beers and I hope that the drinkers can participate in this too.

While I don’t claim that Fuller's and Friends was original or groundbreaking, it was and still is a bringing together of friends. I also don’t see it as a Master/pupil

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relationship much more a meeting of equals. What ever it was or is, the first one was huge fun and I hope they

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continue for long time.

Fuller’s were a founder member of the LBA and have been active members ever since. Indeed I am now Chairman and Fuller's ran the most successful LBA festival in June this year where we had 45 LBA brewers on-site. We all had a great time. I have great hopes for the LBA and hope to make London one of the greatest beer cities in the world. In addition to this, the LBA wants to drive training for brewers and again Fuller’s will play their role in this. Indeed Fuller’s as I mentioned above have taken other brewers into our laboratory, bottling and other areas of the brewery and enabled them to learn how we

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do things. I hope that this has been of benefit to them.

Finally, many Fuller’s pubs now sell a wide range of craft beer. We try to support brewers from the London Brewers Alliance and from Fuller’s and Friends. I hope

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that this exposure is helpful to the brewers that appear. u

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November 2018

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F loor i ng

Find the right formulation Flooring is an important part of your brewing business. So knowing what works best for you is imperative, explains Mark Spindley from Resdev. by mark spindley

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he continuing craft beer boom has now pushed the number of UK breweries to its highest total since the 1930s, helped by growing sales of craft beers in supermarkets as well as pubs and other leisure outlets.

However, even smaller producers need to attain the

highest standards of hygiene and cleanliness across their brewing facilities, a demand which places very specific requirements upon the type of flooring selected to achieve optimum results in terms of performance, longevity and cost effectiveness.

These are challenging and often aggressive environments, where flooring must not only be resistant to the processes and chemicals utilised but must also match stringent hygiene and cleanliness specifications.

Pumadur polyurethane resin flooring systems offer tried and tested solutions. Quick and convenient to

Polyurethane resin flooring systems – the benefits u High levels of chemical resistance: polyurethane systems are capable of withstanding attack from chemicals used in the brewing process. u Impervious finish: these systems create a clean and seamless hygienic finish that will not support microbial growth. u Good impact and abrasion resistance: they are resistant to dynamic loading and can withstand abrasion and impact damage caused by forklifts, pallet trucks and trolleys. u Stable to steam cleaning: when installed at the correct thickness, they can withstand the rigours of steam cleaning processes. u Resistant to thermal cycling: capable of handling hot/cold processes including boiling water and steam followed by washing down with cold water.

install, these cost effective and aesthetically pleasing finishes can, when correctly specified, offer a lifespan in excess of two decades capable of meeting all application requirements.

Qualified installers will look closely at individual

Correct installation is key

environments and applications when specifying flooring systems to ensure that the finished product meets the required standards of hygiene and cleanliness as well

I

t’s not just a question of selecting the right products;

as health and safety requirements. This can also call for

installation is key to optimising performance and

the installation of suitable drainage systems and creating

achieving a long lasting and durable solution.

‘falls’ to floors to improve drainage capacity.

There are many qualified installers in the UK capable

Today’s polyurethane resin flooring screeds provide

of specifying and installing a bespoke floor to match

ideal solutions for micro-breweries, breweries and

individual requirements; a good starting point is to

distilleries. They are available in a range of attractive

select a company which is a member of FeRFA, the

colours to create the right aesthetic finish, require

Resin Flooring Association, representing the leading

very little routine maintenance, are not susceptible to

manufacturers, contractors and associated companies

temperature fluctuations and provide a safe and hygienic

involved in resin flooring, screeding and surface

non-slip finish.

preparation.

FeRFA members are committed to moving the industry

From heavy duty screeds, floor coatings and self smoothing systems through to products for coving and

forward, to investment in training and development and

wall renders, polyurethane flooring combines advanced

to promoting a strong and positive image for the industry

levels of performance with a decorative finish to achieve

through professionalism and performance.

functionality, practicality and a long service life. u

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Brewers Journal

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Co m m e nt

F i nance

tap into brewery equipment finance Greg Jones, founder and managing director at Premier Leasing comments.

by GREG JONES

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he brewing industry and the craft brewing sector in particular, has seen enormous growth in the UK and the Republic of Ireland in recent years. All of us at Premier enjoy a tipple and It’s great to see so many new

and exciting beers come to market, as well as meeting new brewers who have taken the leap to start their own brewery. If you’re just setting up a new brewery, or expanding and require new equipment, it can be a costly exercise and a majority of brewers now look to finance

fit-out, through to IT and software, we are totally flexible in

the new equipment that they need to increase production

what we can finance.

and meet demand.

Now in our 27th year, Premier Leasing & Finance

In the past, a lot of businesses went to their bank as a matter of course for assistance. It’s generally accepted

Ltd, are one of the UK’s leading leasing and equipment

that these days, dealing with banks can be time

finance providers.

consuming and long winded as well as being impersonal.

We understand the market and requirements of the

In a majority of cases additional security will also be

Brewing industry and fully appreciate that choosing

required by way of debentures and /or second charges

the right type of financing can be a daunting task, that’s

being applied to client’s property. With Premier, none of

where we will add value! Just let us know what your

this is required apart from the fact that we may need a

requirement is and leave the rest to us.

directors indemnity if a business is a new start.

In the last year alone, we have provided equipment

A majority of brewers in the UK now look to finance

financing solutions to hundreds of breweries. As well as

their capital equipment. From the largest brewers,

working directly with the brewer we also offer finance

through to small breweries, financing their capital

schemes to recognised suppliers of equipment and

equipment makes sense. It preserves cash flow, offers tax

services into the industry. Whether its asset finance for

advantages and enables them to keep up with the latest

kegs, casks, filtration equipment, bottling lines, tap room

technological advances. u

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f i n f i nance

co m m e nt

Leasing benefits u Flexibility - Leasing offers the flexibility businesses of all sizes need to finance their business requirements. This means that funding growth doesn’t have to come at a cost to other parts of your business and it won't have an adverse effect on your cash flow. u Tax Efficiency - Lease payments may be offset in full against taxable profits, reducing the net cost of leasing the equipment u Working Capital - If businesses buy equipment outright, the capital invested becomes tied up in depreciating assets, precluding investment in other projects.

Leasing, on the other hand, allows you to save resources for other purposes, such as new business opportunities, and business development u Easier Budgeting - Payments are fixed for the full agreement period and are not affected by inflation or changes in interest rates. So businesses can accurately plan for their finance payments in advance, helping simplify the budgeting process. u Maintain credit lines - With leasing, existing credit lines arranged with a bank remain intact. As a result, businesses can acquire the solution they need and have the additional flexibility to still use their bank’s facilities in the future. u No Deposit - A deposit need not be a prerequisite of the leasing agreement.

Businesses simply make regular payments throughout the life of the agreement. u Upgrade opportunities - Leasing allows you to keep up-to-date with advancing technology and to respond to changing needs. Businesses can add to or upgrade their original installation to accommodate unforeseen changes in their requirements. u Convenience - Payments can simply be made by direct debit. Multiple payments can be collected on one single monthly or quarterly direct debit, saving on bank charges and administrative time.

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November 2018

23

Co m m e nt

T r A i n i ng

Understand the industry

Arthur Bryant is the head of training at Brewlab. Here, he shares some of his observations on the industry and some of the common pitfalls you can avoid.

by Arthur Bryant

I

Again, this demonstrates the importance of getting to grips with these parameters and understanding how to use them to your advantage in controlling quality.

As we deal with a lot of people who are just setting up, or who are in the early stages of brewing, we also get a lot of questions related to equipment, such as; where to source equipment, and which type of equipment is required.

n recent years we have noticed an increased

The biggest pitfall we come across at Brewlab is

interest in carbonated craft beer packaged in

neglecting the business side of brewing. We have seen

bottles, cans, or kegs. Traditionally, brewers would

excellent brewers who are capable of producing good

rely on casks as the main package format and this

quality beer fail to succeed because they have not

was relatively simple to deal with in comparison.

developed good quality sales and marketing strategies.

For carbonated beers however, people need to learn the

This is why we now incorporate these essential skills on

theory not just from a technical perspective, but also from

our training programmes.

a health and safety perspective too.

If people want to exploit the opportunities for

On the positive side of things, it is great to see enthusiastic people succeed in producing something of

carbonated craft beer, they need to know how to deal

their own, which other people also enjoy. At Brewlab, we

with pressurised systems and understand how to use gas

hold “open nights” where our students get to showcase

laws such as Henry’s law.

their beers and receive first hand feedback of the beers

In addition to dealing with carbonation, brewers

they have developed, brewed and packaged themselves.

today need to understand how to brew with quality

I am happy to say that most of the time, the feedback is

and consistency. This is partly due to the increased

positive which really delights the student brewers.

competition facing brewers today, but also due to higher

About: Arthur Bryant has worked in the brewing industry since 1986 holding various roles in the laboratory and in production. Before joining Brewlab in 2011, Arthur was employed at Heineken’s Dunston brewery as brewery production and process manager and was also responsible for managing projects at national and international brewing sites as an integral member of the senior brewing best practice team for Heineken. He’s now head of training at Brewlab, which is a leading provider of training, analysis and project support for the international brewing and distilling industry, based in purpose-built premises on the banks of the River Wear in Sunderland. u

expectations from the drinkers themselves.

To brew with high quality and consistency, brewers need to understand the theory behind brewing practices in detail and how to use basic analytical measurements such as; gravity, ABV, yeast count and viability, water chemistry and pH control. Taking the measurements is helpful, but understanding what they mean and how to react to them is now very important.

“The most common questions we get asked are concerning how to correct failures such as; poor pH control, poor microbial control, and inconsistent ABV.

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Brewers Journal

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Co m m e nt

tax

Tackling Tax To understand R&D tax credits, you must first understand the definition for business in the UK. But with that under your belt, you should consider whether you should or could be making an R&D tax credit claim, explains Jon Lee of Pumped Business Solutions (PBS) on behalf of Catax.

Another example from a brewing perspective was a business called Lancaster Brewery. Here the R&D lay in the development of a bespoke food ordering system which had been developed to overcome existing restrictions in ‘off the shelf’ ordering, allowing a brand new system of table service to be delivered. The costs of the project were not insignificant and were not obvious to the brewer. The R&D client benefit was over £15,000.

Westerham Brewery was a small brewery near Kent.

The breweries R&D lay mainly in a bespoke wastewater

by Jon LEE

distribution system which enabled the wastewater

P

from the brewery to be dispersed without causing

Development (R&D) tax credits’ that had been available

in new flavours and via research and development into

via HMRC in the UK since the year 2000. To understand

new ingredients and processes in brewing previously

R&D tax credits, you must first understand the definition

untested in the industry. This process has been ongoing

for business in the UK.

with Northern Monk and other brewers seeking to find

umped Business Solutions (PBS), in

a detrimental effect on the surrounding land. The

partnership with Catax, deliver profit

development of this project was not possible in an ‘off the

building products for brewers, wholesalers,

shelf’ format, our highly trained Specialist Tax Consultants

retailers and manufacturers in the UK and

uncovered the R&D within the process, and our client

beyond. Our business was born after being

received a significant five-figure claim.

introduced to the little-known product ‘Research &

‘Research and Development for tax purposes takes

Northern Monk Brewery represented the advancement

an advance and perhaps a niche market for a specific

place when a business seeks to achieve an advance

product. This advancement did not come without

in science or technology. The activities that directly

significant risk involving failed projects which are also

contribute to achieving this advance in science or

claimable under the same definition.

technology through the resolution of scientific or

Finally, regarding the more significant claims which are

technological uncertainty are R&D. Certain qualifying

possible, I thought I would focus our attention on a drinks

indirect activities relating to the project are also R&D.’

wholesaler whose interest in the Scottish F&B market

After reading this definition of R&D and applying it to my

delivers a turnover of well in excess of £200,000,000

industry, I soon realised that not many businesses had ever

per annum. When we visited this wholesaler, they did

utilised this lucrative tax credit. This financial year I am very

not think they had a case for an R&D claim under the

proud to say we will deliver over £2.5 million in tax credits

SME rules, assuming they fell under the RDEC definition

back into the F&B sector, a specialist subject for PBS.

a UK business. This belief was proved incorrect by our

So where does the R&D lie and what are examples

audit team who went on to identify an IT project within

of R&D in the brewing sector? Here are a range of

the business that had employed the services of most

circumstances where we have uncovered R&D within

of the staff not only for the previous years as a historical

brewers, wholesalers and manufacturers.

project but also as an ongoing development project. We

One of our first introductions to R&D was a leading

delivered a claim for this business in excess of £350,000

manufacturer of wines and spirits based near Liverpool.

for the 15/16 and 16/17 years. The future development

With a turnover of £220 million, they were market leaders

will be of a similar value.

in their speciality but had never once claimed R&D.

The above are just a couple of top-line examples of

Although their manufacturing process had remained

different businesses we have helped. In summary, I would

the same for many years and any spend had been small

encourage anyone who has a Ltd business in the UK

in this area, it had been the IT where at any one time,

and is looking to make changes in systems processes

according to their business Director, there were over 60

products or devices to consider how you are delivering

projects taking place. Some of these were seeking to

these changes and the totals in terms of costs of you and

deliver technological advances to overcome issues within

your employees time as well as the costs of the project

the business. Our total claims were in excess of £100,000

components. Consider whether you should or could be

for the duration of the contract.

making an R&D tax credit claim. u

26

November 2018

Brewers Journal

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18/09/2018 12:01:16

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Forging their own path When you start the year being crowned the best new brewery in the country, it’s always going to put you in good stead for the months ahead. But for Suffolk’s Burnt Mill, such success has far from gone to their heads. Instead, they’ve stuck to their guns, and that means quietly and consistently brewing excellent beers.

many other outfits, there rests a medal. So considerable in weight and embellishment, it could have fallen out of the back pocket of Usain Bolt or Jessica Ennis.

It’s not framed, or underlit, but modestly there in its native glory as a reminder. Because although the team at Burnt Mill have only called this dairy farm home for little more than 18 months, they’ve already worked hard enough to gain recognition. And recognition in the form of being told you are the best new brewer in England via the prestigious RateBeer Awards, so early in your career, is a pretty good way to start.

by tIM SHEAHAN

“It was unusual, and obviously a very big surprise to be honest,” explains Charles O’ Reilly, the brewery’s founder

T

and one third of the team at Burnt Mill. “I only ended up

he bar that lines the outer wooden wall of

finding out when I logged on to the website to see who

the cold store at Burnt Mill’s Suffolk site

else had won! There was no way I thought it would be us.”

comprises six taps. It’s a regular occurrence

O’Reilly, along with head brewer Sophie de Ronde and

in many breweries and a tempting visage,

brewery sales manager Sean, knows such an accolade is

even it has only just hit lunchtime. But unlike

excellent recognition of the beers the brewery has been

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Sophie, Charles, Sean, (Puck and Cocoa): October 2018

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burnt

producing. They’re rightfully proud, but it’s also clear that there was no expectation of acclamation from the team, either.

And with that mindset, they’re not going to deviate from their path, which is to keep your head down and work on brewing the best beers you can. Once you’ve done that, and you’re happy, you can release them into the wild and share them with the world.

O’Reilly knew he wanted to move into the world of the beer back in 2011. He moved from being a consumer of beer to someone that would research and learn about it.

“What began as an interest developed into an idea that in some way I had to work in the industry and in the following years through home brewing, production brewing and near constant research the brewery started to come together,” he explains. “Being in London I’d spend a lot of Saturdays in Bermondsey, drinking the beer at source whilst talking to the people who made it. Their willingness to talk about their methods was much of a draw as the beer itself. It’s an attitude that runs through the industry and it’s a big part of what makes it so great to be involved in, whilst also driving it forward.”

Stints at Canopy and the capital’s London Beer Lab helped refine his focus, and gave him the experience he was striving for. But he knew he wanted to run his own operation, too. And by 2015, he investigated the idea of

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I only ended up finding out when I logged on to the website to see who else had won Charles O’Reilly, Burnt Mill

starting a contract brewing business.

This looked like the route that would give O’Reilly the foray he desired but fate got in the way. A unit located on the farm belonging to the family of his wife Olivia became available. Located in Badley, Suffolk, it offered good links to London and also elsewhere in the UK. There was a site for them, there just needed to be a new business plan.

Six months was spent formulating this, along with the financials a bank could be approached with. Thankfully for O’Reilly, this went to plan, and he could proceed with the new vision of Burnt Mill.

Before the idea of a brewery in Badley came into fruition, O’Reilly was already familiar with nearby maltster Muntons. He knew he wanted to buy from them, regardless of where he would be brewing. And it was during these visits he met the company’s then brewing technologist Sophie de Ronde. Fate would once again be set to play a part in the foundations of Burnt Mill.

“I knew how to brew, but I knew I wanted and needed someone on board with more expertise than me, and someone that could run a production floor,” he explains.

Another meeting followed six months and it became clear that de Ronde would be a good fit for Burnt Mill and Burnt Mill a good fit for de Ronde.

Prior to joining Muntons, de Ronde spent seven years commercial brewing at Brentwood Brewing in Essex. Commercial brewing is something she loves, and something she feels she lost when working for the malt

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business.

“I loved my time there but I knew I wanted to get back into the commercial side,” she says. “Working on a pilot kit and helping customers trouble shoot was fun, but it didn’t compare to the idea of doing things commercially.”

But it was at Muntons that health issues nearly threatened to put a stop to her involvement in brewing full stop. These issues led to a period of dietary elimination and it was here, she faced the realisation she was gluten intolerant.

“It certainly made me question whether staying in beer was the right thing for me. It certainly wasn’t ideal,” she smiles. “But I knew I liked my job, and I knew I was good at it, so I wanted to make it work."

So the opportunity to return to commercial brewing, in a locality she was familiar with, ticked every box and de Ronde joined O’Reilly at what would be Burnt Mill.

“She brings a huge amount of technical knowledge and experience from her previous roles in the industry, having worked across cellar management, production brewing and product development,” he says.

In her role, de Ronde runs the day-to-day brewhouse and cellar operations to help get the best out of the equipment and raw materials with the aim of ever increasing the quality of the brewer’s beers.

She also ensures the brewery keep experimenting with

I knew I liked brewing, and I knew I was good at it, so I wanted to make it work Sophie de Ronde, Burnt Mill

“When it came to specifying the type of kit we wanted,

I adopted the mentality that if you’re planning on doing something well, you should plan around that. Otherwise, if demand increases and you’re on a smaller kit, you won’t be able to meet those volumes and you’ll burn yourself out doing it,” he explains.

And starting with distributing kegs from the back of

a car has developed into the need a brace of new tanks that will give the brewery much-needed capacity less than two years into its time at the farm site.

The brewhouse gives the team a single brew length of

between 25 and 50HL and the addition of the tanks will

our output, whether it be on an operational basis or by

provide that desired increase in capacity. But if capacity

utilising different grains, new or underused hop varieties

was to increase again on this plot, it would require the

and multiple yeast strains.

removal of their current coldstore to a nearby spot.

An inability to taste the beers she makes has not been a barrier for the development of the beers produced at Burnt Mill. Instead, it has encouraged and increased the

The popularity of beers such as Pintle and Green Path have led to this early need for more capacity.

Pintle, which accounts for around 30% of their volumes,

level of involvement O’Reilly, and third employee Sean,

is a Pale Ale brewed with wheat, oats and flaked barley

have in the process.

in the grist to smooth out the body. Whirlpooled and dry

“We’ve made it work,” says O’Reilly. “We all have input in creating recipes, but I know I’ve become better at identifying flavours, and explaining what I want

hopped with Australian Cascade and Citra, it boasts a restrained bitterness and dry finish.

Collaborations have also been a major facet of Burnt

from different beers as a result. We are all better at

Mill’s identity and recent collaborations with breweries

communicating that’s for sure.”

such as New York’s Finback have proved a hit.

De Ronde adds: “We understand each other's

Swimming Giants is an 8% Double IPA that comprises

language better when it comes to beer. Most of things

Pils, Super Pale, Flaked Maize and Wheat in the grist. It us

you can taste in beer, you can smell, so we’re making it

then whirlpooled with Citra and Idaho-7, fermented with

work. And making it work well.”

London Fog Yeast and then extensively dry hopped with

She explains that working at Muntons has proved to be a great help in her current position thanks to the number

Denali, Idaho-7 and Nelson Sauvin.

These are just a brief snapshot of the 20-plus beers

and variety of malts she tasted and brewed with in that

the brewery’s had put out to date. They complement

time.

produce as diverse as an Imperial Stout or a Pineapple

“So when it comes to discussing the the malt backbone we want from a beer, I have a good idea of

Gose. The brewery has also started its own barrel-ageing programme, steered by brewery sales manager Sean.

what to pick from what’s out there,” adds de Ronde.

“I suppose you could say my early inspirations brewing

Beers are produced on a 15bbl brewhouse from

at home were from Belgium. I soon realised the limitations

Gravity Systems. Housed in the brewery’s 2400sqft barn,

plastic fermenters would have on my ability to produce

O’Reilly knew he wanted a considerable setup from day

IPA, so it was clear that the esters of Belgian styles was

one, and for good reason.

the way forward,” he laughs.

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Such experiences led him to stints at breweries such

focus that she has at the top of her agenda.

as The Kernel, the venerable London outfit that has

“Quality needs to come first,” she says. “Too many

inspired so many aspiring brewers to start their own

breweries are setup without this as their core focus and

operations.

that needs to change. It’s something of a reality check

“The main thing when it comes to barrels is having faith in your own processes,” he says. “You need to guarantee things won’t go badly, but also to be happy in what you produce because you’ll encounter a lot of deviation.

That’s fine, as long as the quality is there to underpin it all.”

Imperial Stout awash with molasses is currently resting

when you visit the US and regardless of size, every brewery will have some level of laboratory to work with.

And it’s something O’Reilly and the team have adopted from day one.

“Looking at those who have inspired us, the focus was always quietly to get the quality right and to see where

in a raft of Bourbon barrels at the brewery, while barrels

that can take you,” he explains. “We needed to get the

from Italy and France house a Saison base that he pitches

beer right, and get it consistent, before going out into the

with Brettanomyces and bacteria.

wild.

Sean also has grand plans for a coolship that can feed into the brewery’s ever-increasing army of barrels. Though for now, it’s a case of walking before you can run when it comes to the space they have.

But for de Ronde, irrelevant of style, it’s the quality

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November 2018

“It’s fine to have great branding, but you need to have great, consistent beer to back it up.

"The breweries we admire the most put quality first and everything follows on from that. If we can do the same, then we’ll be doing ok." u

Brewers Journal

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brewhouses

s e c to r

Ensure a perfect fit

It goes without saying that investing in a brewhouse is one of biggest decisions you'll make for your brewery. So therefore it’s key to know the specification that works for you, and the beer you will be producing on your prized new kit.

We speak to some leading brewhouse manufacturers and suppliers working in the UK today to get their advice, and observations of how this growing industry is changing.

Bevtech (above and below right) : Brewers need more flexibility from their brewhouse technology

application within GEA’s beverage division tells us.

He adds: “Today’s consumer environment demands adaptive production plants that can react quickly and are able to handle an ever growing number of ingredients and flavours. Plants where traditionally larger batches were produced must now be able to expand their SKU base to include low and alcohol-free; mid-priced and low carb options, as well as craft and sophisticated beer blends. And, it must all be digitally interconnected and ready for specific consumer demands when it comes to

by Tim Sheahan

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choice and speed."

Wort clarification

e believe the brewing industry supply chain is in the early stages of a major change and we’re ready to enable our customers to make this shift as well: e-commerce

provides consumers with a plethora of choices and

H

is colleague, Wolf Herberg, head of sales steering and support for the group’s separation beer and beverages, explains that more and

delivery options which can threaten brand value if the

more centrifuges are used for hot wort clarification which

right product is not available for quick delivery –i.e. now,”

is driven by the craft brewing trend.

Ricardo Davi, head of business development and strategy

brewersjournal.info

“The wort of those beers is very hop-heavy, which can

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brewhouses

overload a normal wort handling system whirlpool which

during green beer transfer, and the beer recovery from

results in either high losses or a poor clarification result

the surplus yeast in one step, the yeast is reinjected by

or worse: both. Craft brewers often produce wort at very

steady dosing into the feed of the centrifuge.

high gravity with whirlpools reaching their limit due to the

“Instead of 50% wet solids consistency, the yeast is

missing gravity difference betweensolids and liquidsm”

ejected with about 90% from the centrifuge leading to

says Herberg.

a significant reduction in beer losses. As the yeast is

“Because a centrifuge works close to 10,000 g

reinjected into the beer where it comes from, a clear

compared to 1 g acceleration in the whirlpool it can

batch to batch recovery is done. This simplifies the

handle this more easily. The solids in a centrifuge are

operation with many beer types on one site and satisfies

compressed to close to 100% wet solids which increases

the demand for 100% traceability.”

the yield of the hop ingredients and reduces wort losses

IPA demand

dramatically. This is even more important when the trub can be recovered during lautering due to a high variation of different beer types.”

He adds: “Here’s an example: GEA offers separators with a capacity of up to 750 hl/h per unit, such as our high-capacity centrifuge GSE 550, the largest beer centrifuge on the market which is available at up to 1,500 hl/h capacity. GEA has recently installed GSE 550 units

A

t Krones, Alexander Hinds, a process specialist engineer, says one of the overriding requests the company is receiving is for PHE in between kettle

and whirlpool.

"Almost all breweries producing IPAs need the ability

in a major Belgian brewery. Most of the units are installed

to reduce wort temperature between the kettle and

to handle a lower capacity, but for extreme high average

whirlpool often to as low as 85c. So for brewers looking

solid load in the feed: For beer clarification, primarily

to produce an IPA with high hop aroma with low IBU, this

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November 2018

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brewhouses

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“This is mainly achieved through temperature control, multi-step mashing and general flexibility of operations that the SK brewhouses offer,” says Hughes.

The SK brewhouses, from Slovenian business SK, were developed over a six month collaboration between brewers and manufacturer to meet the changing needs of todays modern brewer. Their sizes, layout and functionality reflect this, she tells us.

Hughes adds: “Key elements that customers have been looking for, and the reason why they go for an SK brewhouse, are efficiency of operations and cleaning (to allow two brews in one day) and a neat and user friendly layout of both the brewhouse itself and the digital controls.”

Public focus

A

ccording to James Kerr from Advanced Brewing UK, there has been a rise in the number of people wanting to install breweries into pubs or open

new brewpubs where the brewery equipment is on display and in view of the customers.

One such example is kit they're currently installing is Battersea Brewery, which is going into two converted railway arches in Arches Lane; part of the Battersea Power Station development project.

He adds: “As well as brewpub systems, we've seen a increase in demand for small scale brewkits that are able to be used with pelletized hops, with customers stating improved freshness of flavour in the beer as the main reason for this.

Enterprise Tondelli (left): Offers the industry 6HL to 200HL brewhouses

“In response to this we have adapted our ABUK 5 Barrel System to accept either whole hop flowers, pellitized hops or a mixture of both. We've also had strong

additional heat exchanger is essential,” he says. “But the

interest in equipment for dry hopping beer in tank, prior to

disadvantage can be trouble with trub formation at the

packaging.”

reduced temperature and also reduced heat recovery from wort cooler for water plant.”

He also highlights the demands for an internal strainer on its hop doser. An internal sieve is placed inside the hop doser, which enables the ability to infuse solids such as

At Enterprise Tondelli, UK managing director Craig Wilson explains that brewhouses are always top of the list of needs and the business has some further enhancements in this field.

“Our innovative brewhouse manufactured by our

orange peel. These are circulated and infused, while the

partner who has their own brewery has some unique

sieve holds back solids while the aroma percolates.

features that save money whilst being of show case quality and modular for easy expansion,” he says. “We

Brewhouse flexibility

supply from 6 HL to 200 HL brew houses with all services and packaging equipment required for 13 brews per day!.

F

or equipment business Bevtech, Alison Hughes

You need never buy another brewhouse again but invest in a brewhouse that can expand as your business grows.”

says when it comes to customer demands, there

He adds: “Another innovation is the Brew One system

is a marked movement away from traditional ales

designed for start-up companies. The entry level systems

and towards a brewhouse that offers greater flexibility of

are packaged with brewhouse, chiller, boiler and tanks for

styles, giving the brewer the capability to brew anything

3hl, 6hl and 12hl to allow new brewers to enter the market

from stouts to sours.

with a reduced budget.” u

brewersjournal.info

November 2018

39

s e c to r

brewhouses

Bath Ales & musk engineering Earlier this year, Musk Engineering completed the installation of a 50 barrel rapid batch lauter tun brewhouse at Bath Ales.

The arrival of the new kit at Hare Brewery followed on from the acquisition of Bath Ales by St Austell in 2016. Below is a snapshot of the specifications Roger Ryman, brewing director at St Austell, required from the new kit.

Brewhouse Design Overview 2 x 40 Tonne Malt Silos Alan Ruddock 4 Roll Mill, 2 Tonne per Hr Grist Transfer from Dry Goods System (BSPS) MCV for Mashing/Conversion.

LAUTER TUN for Mash/Wort Filtration.

KETTLE / EWB for Wort Boiling.

Hop Pellet additions to Kettle WHIRLPOOL for Wort Clarification.

HOP AROMA for Leaf Hop Additions Wort Cooling (Ale = 18° C / Lager = 12° C) Automatic Operation (HMI) Auto Recipe selection Auto Lauter Tun operation Auto liquor blending Auto wort cooling 100 Brl Hot Liquor Tank with Heating 50 Brl Cold Liquor Tank Automatic CIP operation

40

November 2018

Lauter Tun Sidewall mash transfer for low oxidation/shear.

Bespoke design Lautering/Grains removal rig.

Auto Lautering profiles, stepped / wave / Deep Bed Rake Reversible with hydraulic lift.

Fully machined rectangular False Bottom Plates.

Straight Valley Bottom underplate design.

Differential Pressures Cells, monitor bed permeability.

Sealed Wort Collection system with a ‘Loop-Seal’ anti-vacuum protection device.

Auto Grain removal via Progressive Cavity Pump

Mash Conversion Vessel Low shear Vortex Type Pre-Masher to pre-mix the roller milled grist/strike water before entry into the MCV. Large Diameter/low speed off-centre mounted Agitator to promote efficient movement of the mash, but with low shear and low oxidation during the mashing-in and heat-rise stages.

Liquor / grist ratio = 2.7 l/kg Steam jackets for stepped heat-rise Low speed/open impellor Mash Pump and large diameter pipework for low shear mash transfer to the LT.

Brewers Journal

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www.qclscientific.com/beerlab 07/06/2018 16:53:41

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No ordinary brewery When Young’s took the decision to shut its brewing operations in Wandsworth, London back in 2006, it was a major loss for the community, and for a city with only a handful of breweries. But thanks to John Hatch, formerly a brewer at Young’s, brewing has never left the old brewery site and instead, has a very bright future.

university degree at Bangor followed.

“I enjoyed it, but had no idea of the type of career path I wanted. At the same time, I realised I liked beer, and drank a lot of it!” he recalls.

Cask beer and Guinness were his fortes during education and Hatch even proudly held the record for knocking back a yard of famous Irish beverage.

“If you think the cascading effect you get in a pint is memorising, wait until you see it in a yard,” he enthuses. “It was memorising!”

But as his admiration for beer increased, his university

by Tim Sheahan

grant went in the opposite direction, and Hatch realised his couldn’t afford to drink as much anymore. So wide-

I

eyed, he journeyed to high street chain Boots and

am the luckiest brewer in London,” beams John Hatch.

John is the head brewer at Wandsworth’s Ram

procured one of the home brew kits on offer.

“Those early attempts were not good, I’ll be the first to admit. But before long I was producing some quite

Brewery. He’s also the assistant brewer, head

cracking beers, and even some wine, too,” he recalls. “The

cleaner, packaging operative and everything in-

only logical thing to do was throw parties on Sunday night

between.

You see, the Ram Brewery is no normal brewery.

and people would get trollied. I’d enjoy watching people enjoy the drinks I made and one day a friend, Richard,

Instead, it’s a truly unique operation housed on the

told me what I was doing was great and that I should be

grounds of the old Young’s brewery. A passion project

doing it for a living."

that came into being upon the news that Young’s was to

He adds: “What a thought! It was inspirational to hear

shutter it’s London brewing business back in 2006, Hatch

because before that, I had no idea what I was going to

has ensured that although the brewery would be leaving

do for a living. And to work in beer was something I could

the site, brewing wouldn’t.

definitely get on board with.

In doing so, it has guaranteed that Wandsworth would

“So I returned home to Bristol in the summer of 1985

maintain the proud mantle of being home to the longest

and headed straight to the public library to consult the

uninterrupted period of continuous brewing in the UK.

Yellow Pages directory and write down the details of

And for Hatch, who celebrated his 30th anniversary on

every brewery going. There was 423 of them at the time,

site in September, it’s just the latest evolution of his love

I believe.”

affair with Young’s and the brewing industry as a whole.

Something that started many years ago.

“I was an underperforming school boy, to be honest.

Hatch wrote to these businesses to try and get that elusive first position in the industry. He was frank, telling each business that he was a student of Biology and

I was the prankster and trickster that teachers detested,

wanted to brew beer for a living. Whitbread responded in

and I don’t blame them,” he laughs. “Whether it was

kind thanking him for his letter and to get back to them

loosening a teacher’s bike seat, or lining their draw with

the following year upon completion of his studies.

a dozen snaps I removed from crackers, I’d be the one Comprehensive school followed and Hatch says he struggled along to get his A-Levels. The one subject of those that struck a chord, though, was Biology and a

42

“So I did! I wrote back to Alastair Lever at Whitbread in Magor, Wales and he replied to tell me ‘See you Monday’.

doing it.”

November 2018

Simple as that!” he laughs.

Hatch joined Whitbread as a microbiologist on a three month contract in the run up to Christmas, helping

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John Hatch: One of London's finest brewing advocates

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oversea the integrity of a mammoth canning runs of beers

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The quality of Young’s beer rocketed in the space

such as Heineken and Stella Artois. It was during that time

of a few years, Hatch believes, and the addition of the

that he also joined the Brewers Guild. A body that offered

ISO 9002 industry standard for quality assurance only

training, talks and also helped match brewers with jobs in

improved things further.

the industry.

“I was dumped in charge of that but I truly believe

It was a wise move.

that for decade after decade, there was continuous

The role, which was due to become permanent in the

improvement at Young’s,” he states.

new year, never materialised. The closure of Whitbread’s

Hatch enjoyed many years working for Young’s but

Salford brewery resulted in an influx of staff being

during this time, there remained pressure on chairman

relocated in their roles.

John Young to sell the valuable site and move the

“I was the last and the first out,” he says. “But they gave me a glowing reference and a month’s extra pay so off I went. During this time, I had learned about John Young

operations elsewhere. Something he fought against time and time again.

“I have wonderful memories of AGMs where John

and his brewery, Young’s based in London. He was a keen

would turn up with a pair of old dusty boxing gloves,

advocate for cask beer and way before CAMRA existed he

something he’d swing around while shouting that ‘I will

was there on his soapbox declaring the benefits of cask

not be selling this brewery’. Another year he wore a

over ‘fizzy, gassy keg'. I knew I wanted to work for him."

beekeeper’s helmet to keep away the ‘annoying pests’ in

Hatch left Whitbread and worked for six months in the NHS. It was here he received his beer equivalent of a golden ticket from Charlie and The Chocolate Factory.

The request to interview for a job at Young’s.

“They told me they had found my details through

the room. Every year there was a different stunt. Fantastic!” he recalls.

But everything must come to an end, and in 2003, Young’s launched a review of its brewing business.

Something that culminated in the decision to merge

the guild and have space for a microbiologist. I couldn’t

brewing operations with Charles Wells’ brewing

believe it. So my dad zipped me down the M4 from

operations in 2006, closing the Wandsworth brewery in

Bristol to London. I vividly recall him pulling up into the

the process.

chairman’s carpark and was swiftly b*llocked for parking

“They decided to announce the closure on my

there. He didn’t care. He went toe to toe with the person

birthday. That was a very bad day. I had tickets to see

and informed them his son was there for an interview.”

the Queen musical ‘We Will Rock You’ that evening and I

Hatch passed the interview with head brewer Ken Don

remember nothing of it,” says Hatch. “In that summer I've

and laboratory chemist David Neal with flying colours. But

never seen so many grown men be reduced to tears. It

he was barely through the door when an opportunity to

wasn't like losing a family because for many, it was losing

become a junior brewer arose. And he took it with both

a family. Young’s took pride in employing families and

hands, working under brewhouse manager at the time,

when we shut, four generations of one particular family

Barry John. He learned a great deal with John but it was

were employed there. That was tough.”

another figure that Hatch singles out for particular praise.

“It was at a Brewers Guild dinner when I was

Following the announcement, the subsequent months would involve decommissioning the brewery. 300 staff

introduced to a gentleman named Derek Prentice. He

either took early retirement, were relocated or found work

knew I was at Young’s and informed me he’d be joining

elsewhere but regardless, Hatch says the last beer to

me at the business after Christmas,” says Hatch. “We were

come out of the brewery was “as good as any” produced

the new guys together but even then, he was vastly more

during his time there.

experienced than me. Derek taught me a great amount

Once the dust had settled on the company’s

and I’ve forgotten so much more than he ever taught me.

announcement, Hatch and Prentice took things into

He's an amazing brewer and a fantastic person.”

their own hands. They approached the council to inform

Prentice, now head brewer at Wimbledon Brewery, is

them of how much of a loss it would be if brewing was to

celebrating an incredible 50 years in the industry in 2018.

disappear from the area. They understood but informed

Upon joining Young’s, Hatch recalls his skill at identifying

the duo there was little they could do.

problems but also a desire to not tread on anyone’s toes, either.

“Derek recommended that I was given various projects

“We suggested however that if the site was to be redeveloped, the council could force the developer to incorporate a brewing operation into the new setup. This

such as looking as dissolved oxygen between point A

was greeted positively so we were thrilled,” he says. “We

and point B. I was young, and available, so happily took

knew we couldn’t simply open a new brewery the day

these projects on. And each time, I’d find a problem that

after Young’s stopped, so we had to improvise.”

he knew was going to be there. He just wanted someone else to identify it and solve it,” says Hatch.

brewersjournal.info

Yeast was added to bottles of wort before fermenting and the yeast skimmed off. And on they went.

November 2018

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“It was a bit underhand, to be honest,” says Hatch.

him for letting me brew for him and I told him it had been

“We weren’t supposed to be thinking about the future

my honour and privilege. Mr Young was already very

of Britain’s oldest brewery rather focused on shutting it

poorly and I really thought that would be my last chance

down. But that’s that."

to express my feelings.

Hatch and the team had a year’s worth of bottles to

“A few days went by and I had a phone call on site

keep them going once brewing stopped on site. The last

- from John Young! He said he quite understood my

brew was completed on the 18th September. The day

decision. I think his exact words were "marvellous! Well

before, John Young passed away.

done you!". I told him that Derek Prentice and I were

Young’s funeral took place less than two weeks

looking at ways to keep the brewing going and he wished

later and with it, the first beers from the new operation

us the best of luck. I then went on to promise that I would

were somewhat fittingly imbibed. Hatch has many fond

do all I could to keep brewing on site “while there was

memories of his old boss.

breath in my body”.

“Whilst Young's were attempting to relocate all of

The maiden beer produced by Hatch and Prentice

their staff back in 2006, I was offered a job as Health

was a 3.7% number based on the popular Young’s Bitter.

& Safety Advisor for the future Young’s pub company,”

But whatever you do, don’t call it by the name it’s also

recalls Hatch. “Over all my years at Young's I had taken

commonly known as, Young’s Ordinary.

on a whole host of jobs that nobody else wanted (ISO

“I remember when I was a young brewer I went to use

9002, BRC Food accreditation, FeMAS, HACCP, CoSHH

the gents within the director’s block of the brewery. Within

and finally full blown health and safety). I realised that, on

seconds, the door slammed. Good grief, I thought, and

being offered a job in the pub chain, I was going to have

there was John Young standing next to me.

to say 'no' to Young's for the first time!

He adds: I felt bad about it so I wrote a letter to John Young explaining that my heart and soul was at Britain's Oldest Brewery and as such I was sorry but I really could not accept their job. I also took the opportunity to tell "Mr John" what he had meant to me over the years. I thanked

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November 2018

He barked: “What are you brewing today?”

“Erm, Young’s Bitter, sir.”

He went quiet then replied: “Thank God for that. If you had called it Ordinary I would have fired you on the spot."

What Hatch hadn’t realised at the time, was that nearby Fuller’s has launched an advertising campaign on

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double decker London buses with the slogan that read ‘Nothing ordinary about Fuller’s’.

“Poor John saw these adverts pass his office day-in,

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and excited, and rightfully so.

“They wanted to know what we’d use and my smart idea of using the scrap metal that surrounded us was

day-out and after that, we never used the term again!” he

immediately dashed as they reminded me, it simply didn’t

recalls.

belong to us anymore. So I went to Young’s CEO Steve

So despite Young’s ceasing its brewing operations, Hatch and Prentice ensured that beer continued to be fermented on site, and enjoyed on site, too. But plans for

Goodyear, thanked him for seeing me and informed him of my plans.”

Hatch had to come clean about the undercover

another brewery remained unclear. Prentice had been

bottling operation that had been taking place in the year

offered, and accepted, the role of brewhouse manager at

since Young’s closed its brewing operations, and also his

Fuller’s, while Hatch took on the role of site manager by

desires to build a new setup.

the site developers. During this time, the stock of bottles and other supplies began to dwindle.

“I was very worried at that point,” remembers Hatch. "So I took myself to King George's Park in Wandsworth and to an oak tree planted in memory of John Young. There I

“He was surprised and shocked. But he understood.

I had permission to use the scrap metal but one thing was clear, that we could not sell anything we make. Fair enough, I thought."

So once more, Hatch returned to Wandsworth with the

was, in the pouring rain, apologising to John for failing and

good news and was greeted with overjoyed carpenters,

admitting that brewing was going to come to an and.”

welders, electricians, labourers and plumbers.

But it was there and then, that Hatch had his lightbulb

The diligent bunch set about finding what they could

moment. To build a ‘Scrapheap Challenge’ microbrewery

in order to create their new brewery. But when kit such

and brew beer once more. So he scuttled back to the

a £3,000 valve was reported “missing”, it conveniently

brewery site to announce his grand plans.

returned unharmed the following day.

He recalls: “I was greeted by a team of 17 depressed

“The team would tell the decommissioning firm that

staff decommissioning and destroying the brewery. While

any kit moved was the work of the ghost of John Young,

not strictly in charge, I had a white coat and declared: ‘Hey

and that happens all the time. Thankfully everyone saw

guys, we’re going build a brewery!’. They were confused

the funny side,” he remembers.

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Left: John Hatch with his prized nano brewery and invaluable brewing books

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“But soon enough Minerva were approached by a local running group known as the the London Hash House Harriers. They refer to themselves as a drinking club with

The nano brewery that would take the Wandsworth site on the next stage of its brewing journey was constructed in nine days. Many of the former brewing staff returned to christen it, to mixed results.

“You have the phrase too many cooks spoil the broth.

a running problem, and they asked if they could tour the brewery.”

He adds: “They missed the chance when Young’s was in operation but we arranged it for them. I agreed to brew a bespoke beer on the proviso they’d furnish the honesty

Well I can tell you that too many brewers can wreck a

box. Something they did with many notes! And that was

beer,” laughs Hatch. “Although we decided on a 4.6% beer,

it, the way forward was tours, comedy nights and similar

it ended up at half that. It was quite frankly, disgusting. It

events to subsidise my brewing.”

was oily, rubbery and revolting.”

He adds: “We filmed the entire process down to

Although the site was soon liberated of all its existing brewing equipment, it took on yet another purpose. As

pouring the first pint and a gentleman called Terry

a studio for film and television. For eight years, shows

Wilkins, who was a fantastic welder, was the first to the

such as Luther and Silent Witness leaned heavily on the

pumps. He couldn’t wait and there he was, lifting the

site, while feature films also called on the gritty, industrial

glass to his lips. He made eye contact with the camera

environs.

and before Terry even took a sip, he raced off sideways out of shot and threw it all away.”

“I’d often do beers for the crew and they loved the idea.

Then they’d enquire about coming back to use the site

Not one to be defeated, Hatch spent many weeks

and also if I’d do another beer. Gladly!” says Hatch. “We’d

playing around with different recipes and ideas, with the

have anything from a zombie film to a gangster flick. With

question of ‘Well, is it beer-like?’ asked many, many times

buildings as old as 1724 right up to the late eighties, it was

by those involved. But it’s easy to track when the quality

no surprise we became so desirable.”

and consistency of the beer took an upward turn.

More than 120 productions were filmed there over

“I remember being paid a visit by an old colleague.

those eight years. So brewing with the sound of AK47

‘Wow,’ they said. ‘That yucca plant is still doing well.’ I’ll be

guns going off outside, or a building being blown up,

honest, I completely forgot it was there and I sure hadn’t

became the norm. But in 2014, it was announced that

been watering it. But he was right, it was doing great!”

Chinese group Greeland had bought the site.

says Hatch. But as my beers improved, the plant’s health

Its first venture in the UK, Greenland took on a site with

deteriorated. It was soon apparent that many beers has

brewing still very much part of its character. Much of the

been poured into that plant over the months. They kept it

area has changed beyond recognition with more than

going.”

600 homes being built on the old brewery grounds. But

The beers Hatch produced evolved, just as the plans

a working microbrewery and a brewery exhibition are still

for the former brewery site. As potential suitors eyed

very much part of the group’s plans as the housing build

up the land, Hatch was tasked with providing would-be

nears its end.

buyers with tours. On one such occasion, this involved liaising with Mark Cherry, then of UK-based company property developer Minerva.

Not one to ignore such an opportunity, Hatch regaled Cherry with his brewing ideals and the plans he had.

“Of all the interested parties, Mark was the one that

Brewing will be a firm part of central Wandsworth once again, just in a different guise.

“I’ve seen the London brewing sector change. When the London Brewing Alliance was founded there was around six members,” says Hatch. “And one of those was Windsor & Eton, which was outside the M25. And now

showed a real interest in brewing. He found it fascinating

there are more than 100 members. What’s happened is

and was interested in my future,” he says. “I told him

marvellous and staggering.”

I wanted to stay in brewing, that it was in my blood.

The London scene will no doubt grow and develop

Thankfully they won the contract and he knew of my

even further but for Hatch, as long as he’s still brewing

plans to keep brewing on that site.”

then he’s more than happy to play his part.

Before long, they were clubbing together to buy the

“Paddy Johnson, co-founder of Windsor & Eton, came

ingredients and chemicals required for the ongoing

on a tour some years ago. He said I was very fortunate,

operation. Hatch would brew alongside his salaried

so I asked him why. And he simply told me that I’m

activities on site but the costs soon started to add up. It

able to brew what I want, when I want and without the

was time for brewing from the Wandsworth site to play a

commercial pressures that most breweries experience.

role in the community once again.

He told me that so many would want to be in my position.

“We started with an honesty box in the sample room and collected a few coppers. Small steps!” he recalls.

brewersjournal.info

“And you know what? He’s right. I’m the luckiest brewer in London.” u

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collect i ve

arts

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The Art of Brewing For years, people have asked if producing a truly great beer is an art or a science. Many would argue it’s a bit of both and that’s the mentality Matt Johnston, co-founder of Collective Arts Brewing, adopts to the beer his Canadian brewery produces. But for Johnston, putting out great beer is only part of the story. Tim Sheahan reports.

Matt Johnston (front, centre right): " We asked ourselves if we could make a difference." flock to each of the event’s five sessions and who can blame them, when you see the quality of the 100-plus breweries in attendance. US mainstays Sierra Nevada dovetail UK heavyweights Beavertown, BrewDog and Fuller’s, while Mikkeller and Põhjala complement the wealth of quality on offer. For those three sweltering days, Collective Arts represent the sole Canadian contingent.

Ensconced in their own personal event space for

by TIM SHEAHAN

the duration of the festival, the company use the room they’ve hired as a blank canvas to showcase their beers.

T

These beers are enjoyed and experienced alongside art

obacco Dock in London is a vast, sprawling

that both inspires their beers and in turn, is influenced by

space. Spanning 16,000sqm, the building

those pours. The space is a hive of activity throughout

comprises two expansive floors. It’s a Grade

the festival and you get the impression that at that point,

I listed warehouse, built around 1811, and is

Collective Arts has well-and-truly landed in the UK.

constructed primarily from brick and iron. Its

“When we started out, an old friend of mine called Bob

original purpose was to store imported tobacco before it

Russell and I sat down. We pushed ourselves on what

continued its onward journey.

we wanted this idea, this business, to be. And if it could

And for several days in the beginning of August, it’s

make a difference,” says Johnston. “So we started with

where many of the team at Collective Arts Brewing

a sentence, something of a mission statement that we

call home. It’s somewhat fitting then that for a building

could follow.”

steeped in the history of imports, Hamilton’s Collective

After much deliberation, the duo settled on the

Arts are also promoting and showcasing their fine

following…

produce here. But in this instance, it’s London in the UK,

“Fusing the creativity of brewing with the inspired talents of emerging artists and musicians from around the world.”

The company’s name followed shortly after. Starting out just as ‘Collective’, Russell and Johnston knew they wanted to support new artists and musicians. Promoting the local was of major importance but on the flipside, as

and not their native Ontario, that the brewery’s beers are being enjoyed and celebrated in. And Collective Arts’ cofounder Matt Johnston knows it’s an important landmark in the brewery’s journey.

Johnston and his team are in the capital taking part in the London Craft Beer Festival. Several thousand people

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Johnston tells us, so was the passion to travel, meet other creative minds and see what the world has to offer. It’s

arts

hurdle to jump over."

Johnston describes the subsequent period as a "dark

that type of desire that has led the company to invest in

year” spent on his own. Money was tight and the idea of

bringing its philosophy to markets such as the UK.

starting a brewery was still far off, so he opted to gipsy

Before Collective Arts came into being, Johnston worked at Canada's Moosehead. A decade spent running

brew those initial beers at several local breweries.

The initial reception to these brews was positive and

sales, marketing and strategies afforded Johnston with

before long, the duo were partnering with Burlington’s

the ability to wield creative license and learn along the

Nickel Brook brewery to produce Johnston’s beers. It

way. But like many professions, there was an itch he

it was here he met brewmaster Ryan Morrow. Morrow

couldn’t scratch, and he knew it was time to move on.

would go on to help scale-up those early Collective

“I didn’t want to become a bad employee and stagnate,” says Johnston. “It was a great experience but

beers and before long, they were working on a more formal basis.

it made sense to look forward. I had worked with Bob

For a few years, that partnership would be known

(Russell) in the past, who is an artist and designer by

as the Arts & Science Brewing. A joint-venture between

trade, and I approached him with this idea I had and if

Collective Arts and Nickel Brook. And although that

he’d be interested. Thankfully, he was."

relationship is no longer formally active, it helped shape

The duo maintained that dialogue for several years.

They both had a passion for craft beer, the arts and above

both businesses as they are today.

Arts & Science Brewing became possible thanks to

all, creativity. The latter underpinning the two strands that

the help of friends, family, HSBC and the Hamilton Port

would define Collective Arts.

Authority. And its home would be the Lakeport Brewing

Come 2012, Johnston knew what he had to do.

plant in Hamilton. Shut by Labatt Breweries back in

He informed Russell on his plans to quit his role at

2010, it would become a brewery once more. And under

Moosehead and press ahead with their new venture.

Collective Arts ownership, it still is today.

And then he told his wife…

“She was fine with it, I think!” laughs Johnston. “She

“It was gratifying and rewarding to be able to bring brewing back to that area,” explains Johnston. “The

knows I like chaos and that this type of decision was

previous owners did what they could to make it difficult

not atypical for me. She’s an amazing individual and I’ve

for brewing to exist there with things like pouring concrete

probably put her through a lot. But this was just another

in drains. But we aren’t afraid of a challenge.”

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Which was good news because although there was a facility, there was no kit. Thankfully for Johnston, Sleeman Breweries had announced that it was closing its Dartmouth, Nova Scotia brewery in November 2013.

Part of a move by Sleeman’s parent company Sapporo International to rejig its North American operations, the company was unable to find a buyer for the facility. As a result, the kit previously housed by the building was put up for auction.

“The support we had was amazing and we’re you are doing things on a shoestring, the opportunity to purchase a brewhouse, fermenters and a bottling line on auction came at the right time. Thankfully for us, we were the only ones crazy enough to bid,” he recalls.

They begged and borrowed to transport the equipment from its old home in Nova Scotia to its rightful new abode in Hamilton. But they got the job done. The setup comprises a modified 60hl five vessel brewhouse from DME. In Johnston’s own words, the kit, originally built to be a lager brewhouse, “turns out great beer, just slowly”.

Arts & Science Brewing was a positive experience for both businesses. They grew and helped each other in different ways but culturally, Johnston says, the facility needed to be part of one company. After making the announcement to go their separate ways in 2017, the

arts

We still ask people if they are motivated by chaos. They need to be as we are a fluid business that refuses to stand still.

Matt Johnston, Collective Arts Brewing

Hamilton facility is now exclusively owned by Collective Arts.

“This site had soul, and it feels like home. Our whole team has roots there and we love the city,” he says. “There is something of a creative renaissance taking place and it’s something you can see in action from the brewery itself. On one side you have the heavy industry and the other, the creative downtown. Being in the middle, I like to think of ourselves as creative manufacturers.”

Ryan Morrow masterminded when and what was brewed during the time Collective Arts and Nickel Brook shared the space. Although they no longer do, Morrow remains as brewmaster for both businesses. A widelyregarded figured in the industry, he has helped scale up those early recipes while making his mark with a wealth of new formulations in the following years.

The first beer to see the light of day was ʻRhyme & Reasonʼ Extra Pale Ale. At 5.7% abv, it boasts the flavour and aroma of Citra, Centennial, Chinook and Simcoe hops that prevail without excessive bitterness for maximum drinkability.

Malt sweetness in the background complements the hops for a crisp finish. Other beers that form part of the brewery’s popular core range include ‘Life in the Clouds’ which is its flagship New England style IPA and the 5.5% 'Stranger Than Fiction’ porter that features plenty of roast flavour and hints of molasses.

‘Rhyme & Reasonʼ was the brewery’s first beer to

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be listed at the LCBO. But making just one beer at that time didn’t sit well with Johnston so he pushed ahead

arts

c ro s s i n g

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For Johnston, he has no desire to slow down any time soon either.

with expediting the portfolio and to offer drinkers a more

He explains: “We’ve been working with others since the

diverse range of beers. Additions such as a citrus blonde

very beginning. But at the start, we had no clue if our idea

ale followed and with it, many hours spent ensuring

would be embraced on a wider basis. A friend from UK at

the resulting beer was just as the team imagined.

time said that this whole idea was my ‘student art project’

Unfortunately for them, that meant the addition of fresh

and that I should let them know 'When I want a job'.

zest in each brew.

Thankfully I didn’t need to take them up on their kind offer.

“We wanted fresh zest so we’d be zesting at work or

“But we honestly didn’t know if the community would

we’d be taking the fruit home along with a zip zester.

embrace the fact that we didn’t put our brand or brewery

Hours would be spent watching TV shows zesting as

name on the front of each label. Instead, we were using

those things are no way as fast as they sound! he laughs.

that canvas to promote other creatives and there was a

Thankfully the brewery now enlists the help of a cold

fear that the arts community doubted the authenticity

press juice company to carry out the arduous deed on

of the approach and that we were truly committed to

their behalf, and prevent the onset on carpal tunnel

supporting them.”

syndrome in doing so.

While the production of quality, flavoursome beer is

Such fears were eased however when the brewery hosted a launch party at the Gladstone Hotel in Toronto

of upmost importance to Collective Arts, so is the desire

resulted in an incredible 600 people pass through the

that set them off on the journey, to promote emerging

doors. Then fast-forward a few years and in 2018, that

artists and musicians. And it’s a mission statement they’ve

brewery employs more than 100 team members across

very much adhered to. As of 2018, more than 750 different

all facets of its business.

creatives have adorned the labels of their beers. With

“As people like to say, craft beer can be relatively

that, Collective Arts has compensated these artists,

inefficient,” he smiles. “But seriously, we have an amazing

musicians and bands to the tune of $250,000.

team of like-minded creatives and seem to appeal to

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arts

certain type of person. One of the first job postings I ever

collaborative beers to sample. It was one of the busiest,

created listed 10 questions. I outlined that this position

if not the busiest space for the duration of the festival.

could be your dream job if you answer 'yes' to the

It offered drinkers the opportunity to interact with the

questions I set out.

brewery on a number of levels.

These included having an affinity for beer, being

Be it in Hamilton, London, Tokyo or Sydney, it was

creative and also, that you were not arrogant, obnoxious

Collective Arts in motion. Those few days celebrated

or a douchey character. And we’re lucky people ticked

existing collaborations and no doubt helped sow the

those boxes. We still ask people if they are motivated by

seeds of numerous ones yet to be realised. If that was

chaos. They need to be as we are a fluid business that

indeed the case, you get the impression Johnston would

refuses to stand still!”

have a big smile on his face.

Standing still is one thing Collective Arts cannot be

With that successful showing in London under its

accused of, and Johnston recalls that nerve-wracking

belt, having its beers sold and enjoyed in places like the

launch party several years ago.

US, UK and Europe more widely remains a major part of

“That night empowered us and made us believe that we were taking the right path,” he says.

That path has led Johnston and the team at Collective

Collective Arts’ plans.

And it's one they are beginning to realise.

“We have seen how challenging it is for artists to

Arts across the globe, including its popular showing at the

be seen and heard. I don’t want to get too deep but I

aforementioned London Craft Beer Festival. You could

think the world is a bit crazy right now and I believe that

argue its presence in London for those few days almost

creativity makes the world a better place and at the

epitomises their philosophy, ethos and proposition.

moment we need more of that, says Johnston.

The room was shared with Illustrate, a creative

He concludes: “If we can garner that amazing creativity

brand founded by James Katz and Tony Brunsdon in

that they are fostering and put it out there, then they

2015. Together, the space featured a barber, DJ, live

benefit and hopefully the drinker gets inspired. If we can

illustrations, apparel to purchase and a raft of special

do that, then we’re doing what we set out to do.” u

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SCIENCE

B R U T

I PA

Brut IPA under the spotlight 2018 has seen a surge of interest in the production and consumption of Brut IPA. Here, Andrew Paterson, techical sales and support for Lallemand UK, gives us the lowdown on the style, the science behind them, and best practices to follow if you're planning to brew one at your own brewery.

Enzymes and just what is AMG?

E

nzymes are complex proteins which act as catalysts to accelerate the speed of a reaction. Put simply, they breakdown biological molecules into

their constituent parts. There are several factors that can affect enzyme activity including temperature and pH. An increase in temperature increases the rate of reaction up to a point but above, and outside of the optimal range can reduce the efficacy and even denature the enzyme. The use of enzymes in brewing is certainly nothing new but is now gaining wider interest and increasing application in

by andrew Paterson

the craft brewing sector to push boundaries and achieve specific sensory profiles. Indeed, AMG has typically been

I

used in brewing for creating low-carb beers and reducing

n recent years the craft beer market has been

sweetness in higher ABV beers. Brut IPA is a good

dominated by waves of interest in particular

example of using an enzyme in a new and different way.

beer styles. We have seen the popularity of IPAs,

In a standard beer, water and malted barley are mixed

Imperial Stouts, New England IPAs, Fruit IPAs

in the brew house to produce a mash. The main purpose

and Kettle Sours ebb and flow, driven by tides of

of this is to create sugar for fermentation. During this

enthusiasm on social media, and by people’s desire to

process enzymes are released from the malted barley

experience the next big thing. To the brewer this brings

which begin to break down the starch present in the

an extra layer of excitement, not just in tasting these

barley endosperm into sugars. The two most significant of

innovative new styles but in learning how to brew them

these enzymes are alpha and beta amylase.

successfully.

In 2018 we have seen a surge in interest in the

Starch, a polymer of glucose, is joined by glycosidic bonds and is present in two forms, an unbranched variety

so called ‘Brut’ IPA, a style very much in its infancy.

known as amylose joined by alpha 1,4 bonds, and a

Originally brewed in San Francisco by Kim Sturdavant

branched variety known as amylopectin joined by alpha

of Social Brewing the style is defined by extremely low

1,4 bonds with alpha 1,6 branch points. (See fig 1)

levels of unfermentable dextrin material at the end of

In the brewing process the glycosidic bonds in

fermentation. This leads to a crisp and extra dry, (but

starch are broken down by enzymes in a process

not drying) mouthfeel. The style is perhaps the perfect

known as hydrolysis. (See fig 2) Alpha amylase acts as

contrast to the trend for New England IPAs which are

an endoenzyme hydrolyzing the 1,4 glycosidic bonds

characterized by their extreme levels of dry hop character

within the starch chain to produce shorter lengths, whilst

and full mouthfeel borne of chloride heavy water. In

beta amylase acts as an exoenzyme hydrolyzing the 1,4

addition to the brut character these beers tend to exhibit

glycosidic bond two glucose units away from the end

very high levels of carbonation and effervescence as

of the chain releasing maltose (see fig 3). Maltose is a

well as a moderate to high hop aroma leading to the

disaccharide made up of two glucose molecules and is

popular comparison with the wines of Champagne. The

the main sugar utilized by yeast in a brewery fermentation.

production of the Brut IPA hinges on the use of a class

Beta amylase activity is critical to the fermentability of a

of exogenous enzyme called an amyloglucosidase

normal wort. Crucially, neither alpha nor beta amylase will

(AMG) in the brewing process. (Lallemand brand name

hydrolyse the alpha 1,6 glycosidic bond at branch points

Glucoamylase 400).

in the amylopectin chain, and it is the consequence of

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SCIENCE

Starch 6 CH2OH

(the source of sugar in brewing)

CH2OH

H

C5

O

OH

C4

H OH

H

C1

HO

C

C

H

3

2

H

CH2OH O

OH Amylase

O

OH

OH O

O

OH CH2OH

OH CH2

CH2OH O

O

OH

OH

O

OH

O OH

CH2OH O OH

O OH

O OH

O

Amylopectin

OH

Starch

Fig 1: Starch, a polymer of glucose, is joined by glycosidic bonds and is present in two forms.

Hydrolysis of Îą 1,4 Linkage CH2OH

CH2OH this which leads to the presence of unfermentable dextrin

O

at the end of fermentation in conventionally produced beers. These unfermentable dextrins are in some

HO O

presence, or absence can produce a beer that is deemed sweet or dry respectively.

OH

In a brut IPA the unfermentable dextrin material is absent. This is due to the addition of an exogenous

CH2OH O

amyloglucosidase enzyme to the mash or fermenter.

Amyloglucosidase is produced from the fungus Aspergillus Niger and works by hydrolysing both alpha

H

HO

part responsible for the mouthfeel of a beer and their

responsible for mouth feel and residual present gravity

O

H

+ H2O

CH2OH O

H

HO

H

HO

1,6 and 1,4 bonds one glucose unit away from the end of

OH

the starch chain releasing free glucose into solution (see

fig 3). This glucose is then utilized by the yeast during

OH

OH

HO OH

fermentation producing alcohol and CO2. In this way all of the available starch from the malted barley is converted into sugar and fermented. The classic use of an enzyme such as AMG is to increase fermentability of worts leading

Fig 2: Glycosidic bonds in starch are broken down by enzymes in a process known as hydrolysis

to greater alcohol yields and a more efficient use of raw materials.

How to produce a Brut IPA

choose from. An addition of AMG enzyme to the mash, an addition of AMG to the fermentation vessel or an addition to both.

W

An addition to the mash tun ensures that there is no

hen considering how best to produce a

active enzyme moving forward to the fermentation vessel

brut IPA one must consider the relative

as it is deactivated in the boil. The disadvantage is that

advantages and disadvantages of the

the rate of addition needs to be high to ensure complete

different methods. There are three main options to

starch breakdown. Lallemand recommend an addition of

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59

SCIENCE

B R U T

I PA

Mechanism of amylase activity α-Amylases Amyloglucosidases

Amyloglucosidases

β-Amylases

Reducing end

Glucose

Maltose

Fig 3: Beta amylase acts as an exoenzyme

2-4 litres per tonne, although this ought to be optimized

of the yeast strain concerned. The two most popular

for individual processes. The enzyme requires thorough

options are a neutral ale strain such as Lallemand BRY97

distribution throughout the mash to ensure uniform

or a Champagne strain such as the Lallemand CBC-1.

breakdown of starch and so it is recommended that the

A Champagne strain will only ferment simple sugars

enzyme is added incrementally throughout the mashing

such as glucose, fructose and maltose, meaning that

process.

starch breakdown needs to be comprehensive to ensure

An enzyme addition to the fermentation vessel has

a completely dry final product. A clean US style ale

the advantage of a much lower dose rate and complete

strain will ferment both maltotriose and maltose so,

breakdown of any remaining dextrin material but has the

if starch breakdown is not complete due to less than

disadvantage of the presence of an active enzyme in the

ideal mashing conditions, or a lack of fermenter enzyme

final beer. The consequence of this is that great care

addition, it may be more forgiving to the brewer. Clearly

must be taken to ensure that fermentation has proceeded

the desired final sensory characteristics of the beer also

to dryness prior to packaging the final product. Failing

need to be considered at this stage.

to ensure starch breakdown and fermentation have

References: Michael J. Lewis, Tom W. Young, Brewing, 2002

completed to satisfactory levels will lead to increasing levels of sweetness in filtered or yeast free beer and

Brut IPA recipe

pressure buildup and potential bottle bombs in bottle conditioned beers. The recommended dose rate is an addition of AMG to the fermentation vessel at the start of fermentation at a level of 10ml/hl.

The Lallemand recommendation is an addition of enzyme to both the mash and the fermenter. This ensures

T

he grist for a Brut IPA should be predominantly pale with some wheat added for head retention if desired. Hop bitterness should be low, in the

fermentation in a good timeframe, especially when

region of 15-25IBU. Alcohol content tends to be between

using a Champagne strain, as well as complete starch

4.5% and 6.5%. Lallemand have created an example

breakdown.

recipe, as well as best practice procedures which can be

The yeast strain chosen for fermentation of Brut IPA is choice for the brewer; however, the choice should be made in full awareness of the physiological properties

60

November 2018

seen on the following pages. (right) We have also put together a ‘best practices’ procedure (overleaf). u

Brewers Journal

Best Practices

Recommended Brut IPA procedure Brut IPA is a beer style honouring characteristics from one of the world’s best-loved sparkling wines, Champagne. “Brut” is one of the driest forms of champagne wine and heavily influences the conventions of this modern IPA; pale in colour, dry finish and highly aromatic. Residual sugars, malt character and complexity are not desired but an extra dry finish is complimented with a highly intense aroma, derived from significant late and dry hop additions whilst minimizing bitterness. The key and defining character of the Brut IPA is full attenuation, which can be achieved with the addition of ABV Glucoamylase 400 (AMG enzyme) throughout the brewing process as per our recommended procedure below.

Mash -

Single infusion mash at recommended 63-70°C (149-158°F).

-

Addition of AB Vickers Glucoamylase 400 (AMG) at rate of 2-4 L/mt during the mash, ensuring effective mixing.

-

Ensure a minimum mash stand time of 60 minutes.

Lauter -

Wort separation into kettle.

Wort Boiling

GLucoamylase 400 (GAG 511) Glucoamylase 400 is a GMO free food grade saccharifying glucoamylase or amyloglucosidase enzyme derived from a selected strain of Aspergillus niger.

It is an exoglucosidase capable of hydrolyzing both the α-1,6 and α-1,4 glucosidic linkages of starch, liberating single glucose units.

-

Standard wort boiling, c.60 minutes.

Benefits

-

No bittering hops added during the boil.

Maximizes the conversion of starch containing substrates to fermentable sugars.

Addition of aroma hops -

Minimizes residual carbohydrates.

Provides a high degree of attenuation.

Addition of aroma hops in kettle or whirlpool post boil.

Dose Rate & Application

Transfer to FV -

Transfer > FV following aroma hop addition and whirlpool stand.

Fermentation -

Addition of ABV Glucoamylase 400 (AMG) at rate of 10 ml/hL added to FV.

-

Recommended yeast strains include BRY-97 West Coast Ale strain and CBC-1 Champagne yeast.

-

At standard primary fermentation pitching rates and temperatures continue to monitor fermentation rate and gravity, 3-5 days being typical fermentation time.

-

Expected terminal gravity using ABV Glucoamylase 400 (AMG) is 0.998 – 1002.0 SG.

-

Addition of dry hops directly to FV nearing terminal gravity or post fermentation.

A typical dosage of: 0.5 – 10 kg/t of grist added in the brew house.

3 – 5 g/hl wort added during fermentation.

Glucoamylase 400 can be used to produce low calorie beers. In this application it can be added directly to the mash vessel at the mashing-in stage. Alternatively, it can be added to cooled worts after yeast pitching.

Physical & Chemical PHYSICAL FORM: COLOR:

Liquid with a SG of 1.0-1.2

Brown (color may vary from batch to

batch) ACTIVITY:

Minimum 475 AMGP/g

One AMG unit is defined as the amount of enzyme which hydrolyses 1 μmol/min of p-nitrophenyl α-glucopyranoside at 37°C and pH 4.4

Conditioning -

Allow sufficient conditioning time to ensure stable gravity and enzymatic activity has ceased.

For more information, you can reach us via email at brewing@lallemand.com

www.lallemandbrewing.com

Recipes

Brut IPA with CBC-1 10hl Step 2

Step 1

malt

Liquor Litres Final Kettle Vol

900

Evaporation Rate

Beg Kettle Vol

1000

0.10

L:G

3.1

Mashing in Liquor

508

evaporation amount

0

100

Lauter

Extract (kg):

Weight of Malt (kg)

Original Gravity/Plato

1.0484

BME (premised)

0.900

Golden Promise Pils Wheat Carahell

Colour (Lovibond)

5 to 8

TOTAL

Type of malt

113.22

12.0

96.77 43.55 16.55 5.03 161.91

% of Grist

Extract (as-is)

Yield

Colour (L)

Colour contribution

Golden Promise

0.600

0.780

0.702

3.1

2.0

Sparge Liquor

792

Pils

0.270

0.780

0.702

3.0

0.9

Total Liquor

1300

Wheat

0.100

0.760

0.684

3.0

0.3

Carahell

0.030

0.78

0.675

5.0

0.2

TOTAL

3.3

temperature

Font Legend

Salts/lactic CaCl2

°F

°C

Conversion Temp

149

65.0

Strike Temp

161

71.5

Sparge acid

Mash Enzymes AMG

Sparge Temp

174

78.9

none

2-4l per ton mash grist

6g per liter

Temp Gravity/Brewing parameters Water Malts Hops Yeast

Step 3

hops Type

Kettle Boil Time: 90 Min alpha-acid

Hop Additions: 3

IBUs: 15

Irish Moss @ 15 min before knock-out: (1g per 20 l kettle full volume)

boil time (min)

utilisation %

IBU (%)

IBU contribution

weight of hops (g)

Pilgrim

0.110

60.00

0.200

0.850

12.75

522

Mosaic

0.120

Whirlpool

0.010

0.100

1.50

1125

Chinook

0.120

Whirlpool

0.010

0.050

0.75

563

TOTAL

2209

Step 4

yeast Yeast Type/Number Fermentation Temp

notes

FV Additions

CBC-1

• Non-filtered

AMG 10ml/hl

20°C

• Dry hop @1kg per 1hl w/ Citra, Amarillo

For more information. you can reach us via email at brewing@lallemand.com

www.lallemandbrewing.com

BrauBeviale 2018 Nuremberg, 13 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 15 November Stand 7A-510

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November 2018

Brewers Journal

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UALITY M

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November 2018

65

date s

&

e v e nt s

events

The Brewers Congress brings together the leading and most influential figures of the industry from the UK and overseas.

08/11/18 - 10/11/18

Belfast Beer Festival

Brewers Congress

Ulster Hall, Belfast www.belfastbeerfestival.co.uk

Institution of Civil Engineers, London congress.brewersjournal.info

14/11/18 - 17/11/18

Cambridge Beer Festival University Social Club www.cambridgebeerfestival.com 16/11/18 - 17/11/18

Dark City 2018 Northern Monk Refectory, Leeds ww.northernmonkbrewco.com

66

November 2018

28/11/18

30/11/18 - 01/12/18

Vessel Beer Festival Guildhall,, Plymouth www.eventbrite.co.uk 04/12/18 - 08/12/18

Pig's Ear Beer & Cider Festival The Round Chapel,, Hackney www.pigsear.org.uk

Brewers Journal

y b e R

Food The

Business

The podcast for the food and drink industry From Reby Media, we bring you The Food Business. If you’re in the industry, or just super interested in all-things foodie, then this is right up your alley. Our informative and entertaining fortnightly episodes will keep you in the know.

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Photograph shows SSV Brewhouse installation at Salt Beer Factory.

#SSVLimited