BarberNV Issue 6 by Gallus Media

INSPIRING UK & IRELAND BARBERING SUCCESS

Issue 6. July/August 2016.

£5 | €6.50

Hail, Cvesar !

HE CAME. HE SAW. HE CONQUERED.

Chris Foster Michael Damiano Guerrilla Barbering @BarberNV_Mag

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E M P E R O R Unconventionally British

The Emperor Barbers Chair is designed and manufactured in Britain by REM. With 3 Year Warranty. Part of the REM Barbers Collection. sales@rem.co.uk

www.rem.co.uk

01282 619977

Catalog Sheet

Welcome

Professional B&B International

ANDREW BREWSTER

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Summer is here and it’s almost as hot as the barbering industry. You guys have smashed it again at Barber Connect, the Great British Barber Bash, and Barber UK, and we were at all of them to get the latest news and try and meet as many of you as possible.

here’s been so much going on it’s been hard to put this issue together without leaving people out – the industry is growing so fast and we’re delighted to be at the heart of it. While it was all going off here in the UK we thought we’d give our top man Larry a vacation and sent him Stateside to track down some of the hottest names over there. He hit the road in his caravan… sorry, RV… and had a whale of a time. But first he was kind enough to interview LA legend Julius Cvesar down at Champs Barbers for us and you can read all about the Grey Matter barber’s latest exploits in this issue. We also have an interview with Wahl Artistic Team member Michael Damiano who took time out from following Italy in the Euros to share his story with us. Speaking of the Euros, Iceland showed the world what they have to offer and Fit for Vikings is a shining example of that, so we went Behind the Brand just for you! Ruger Barber had us

Kit includes: • Clipper • 9 Attachment combs: 1/16", 1/8", 1/4", 3/8", 1/2", 5/8", 3/4", 7/8", 1" • Blade guard and oil

very impressed in this issue. So impressed were we that they’re our Barbershop of the Month, and their barber Danielle Corbett is our rising star. The Beak brothers have put together one hell of a shop there. We have four incredible new shops including offerings from Kieron Price plus Neal Toner and Micky Graham. And if you fancy opening your own shop then our feature on barbershop interiors may be of interest. There’s also features on the difference between men’s hairdressers and barbers (is there one?) and the hottest summer looks. All that alongside our usual fare of top training tips and brilliant business articles to help make your shop a success. Our Showcase section has also had a makeover to show off more of your amazing looks, so keep them coming. Don’t get too sunburnt and we’ll see you in September!

Stay sharp, Andrew Founders Andrew Brewster & Joanne Reid | Editor-in-chief Andrew Brewster | Sub Editor Simon Ritchie | Sales & Marketing Support Connie Neil | Design Support Ross Stewart

93 info@andisco.com www.andis.com 2015-823

Design & Marketing PrintNV | Features Writer Ken Hermes, That Little Barber Shop | Columnists Rob & Dan Rix, Larry the Barber Man, Sid Sottung | Thanks Johnny’s Chop Shop, Dapper Dan, Dear Barber, Neocape, City & Guilds, Su Clark, NHF, MHFed, Fellowship of British Hairdressing, British Master Barbers, Barber Council, British Barbers’ Association, Guerrilla Barbering, Kem Cetinay, The Lions Barber Collective, Autism Barbers Assemble, OSMO, Hairgum, Salon Services, Matakki, Refreshening Wipes, Custom Belmont, Hair & Beauty World, Takara Belmont, Vivid PR, REM-MEN, Andis, Reuzel UK, Tom Chapman Hair Design, Robert Rix, The Master Barber’s Shop, Slicks, Mike Taylor, Sam Wall, Sid Sottung Academy, Slade Edwards, Kevin Hamm, Pall Mall Barbers, Frontline Web Design, Salonized, Barber Genie, Barber Equipment Centre, The Bluebeards Revenge, Wahl Academy, Steven Thomas Green, Lock, Stock & Barrel, Gorgeous PR, SB Academy, The Irish Barber Alliance, Garry Spencer, Barber Cut, Julius Cvesar, WBX Europe, Savills, Smooth Hound, Ruffians, Stylus, Raw: Image Barbershop, Dapper,

JFH, Rockstars, Ruger Barber, Danielle Corbett, Michael Damiano, Fit for Vikings, Patrick Forster, London School of Barbering, Roches Barbershop and Shaving Saloon, Kim Powell, Tony Cairney, Allan Stone, Graeme Milne, Chris Abbott, Tom Baxter, Lesley MacBain, Ryan Forsythe, Marcus King, Jamie Stevens, Chris Foster, Joseph Lanzante | Cover Image Photography: Robert Braid, Hair: Paul Mac Special and Sam Wall, Models: Hugo Hora Santos and Jord Liddell Pictures Shutterstock, Terry Boyd, Mark Shirley, Krijn Van Noordwijk, Iain Crockart, Reuzel | Published by MediaNV Ltd, 132 West Regent Street, Glasgow G2 2RQ | Email contact@salonnv.co.uk | Tel +44 (0) 141 212 5525 Copyright All work in this publication is copyright BarberNV Magazine and MediaNV Ltd. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the permission of the publisher. © Information and product prices are correct at time of printing. Some products may not be available in all stores.

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Issue 1. August/September 2015.

INSPIRING UK & IRELAND BARBERING SUCCESS

aLAN BEAK Rob and Dan Rix Joth Davies Larry the Barber Man

Apothecary87 Sam Martin

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Issue 2. October/November 2015.

Hair For Men Academy

Pat Barry Tom Chapman Darren Jones

David Diggs & Vick the Barber

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AMBASSADORS SPECIAL

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Issue 3. December 2015/January 2016.

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INSPIRING UK & IRELAND BARBERING SUCCESS Issue 5. May/June 2016.

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POP-UP SHOP KINGS

The Blind Barber, Quality Cut

Issue 4. March/April 2016.

Schorem

PAUL HEWITT & BR A DLEY COWEN

BARBERING, BEERS AND BANTER...

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Tattoo Subculture

Toastie Styles

Alcohol in the Barber Shop Donnie Hawley

U NLOCKING THE SECRETS OF INSTAGR A M SUCCESS WITH KIERON THE BARBER

Sid Sottung

Kevin Luchmun

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NEWS | PRODUCTS | BUSINESS | FEATURES | TR AINING

Written by barbers, for barbers. INSPIRING UK AND IRELAND BARBERING SUCCESS

www.salonnv.co.uk/shop

News

Features

INDUSTRY NEWS

18 JULIUS CVESAR

INDUSTRY BODIES

38 BARBERSHOP INTERIORS

EVENTS

CHARITY

Products

42 NEW SHOPS 44 BARBERSHOP OF THE MONTH: RUGER BARBER 46 RISING STAR: DANIELLE CORBETT

EDITOR’S CHOICE

STYLING

ELECTRICAL

52 BEHIND THE BRAND: FIT FOR VIKINGS

SHAVING, BEARD & MOUSTACHE

59 DR NESTOR: FACELIFT?

SCISSORS & THINNERS

62 SUMMER LOOK

COMBS & BRUSHES

64 SHOWCASE

72 MEN’S HAIRDRESSER OR BARBER?

FURNITURE & EQUIPMENT

60 LARRY’S USA ROAD TRIP

Business PALL MALL POP-UP TEAM

48 BARBER OF THE MONTH: MICHAEL DAMIANO

Training 74 ROBERT RIX: WORDS FROM THE WISE

76 EDUCATOR OF THE MONTH: CHRIS FOSTER

BUSINESS SECRETS

CLIENT CONSULTATION

78 ACADEMY OF THE MONTH: LONDON SCHOOL OF BARBERING

INCENTIVISING STAFF

80 SID SOTTUNG

GUERRILLA MARKETING

82 STEP BY STEP

MARKETING BY ASSOCIATION

Contents ISSUE 6 | JULY/AUGUST 2016

BarberNV Magazine | 5

Warner brothers takes film to champs Some top industry names turned up at Champs Barbers in London for an exclusive screening of Barbershop: A Fresh Cut, the fourth film in the Barbershop series which features the likes of Ice Cube.

cuts to the rest of the audience who were lucky

Top flight barbers land new revenue stream for salons

enough to get the double benefit of a great film

Tech-savvy barbers have seen bums on

and some great barbers sorting them out.

seats rates take off since adopting a key strategy borrowed from the airlines. Figures released by Shortcuts Software show that increasing numbers are offering priority booking at a premium, effectively allowing clients to jump to the front of the queue for a small extra payment. The innovation could have repercussions across the whole grooming industry, with key appointments carrying a higher price at successful salons. The stats show that clients are taking up the offer, with online booking rates for two of Shortcuts’ top barbers jumping by more than 30 per cent in 2016. “Instead of making clients wait, the majority of our barbers now offer the option of pre-booking at an additional cost; £2 to secure a slot with your favourite barber,” says Trevor Jennings, managing director of Shortcuts.

Warner Brothers took the film to Champs to showcase it in one of the UK’s top barbershops in front of top barbers like Matt Robinson from Mister Robinsons and Andis Educator Kieron Price, ahead of its release in June. The barbers were kept busy giving out fresh

wet shaving award for indian barber Sadik Khalifa has overcome personal adversity to be crowned Britain’s Best Wet Shaving Barber 2016 at Barber UK. The Nuneaton barber was born and raised in poverty stricken Bhadeli in Gujurat, India, before moving to the UK in search of a better life in 2007. He opened his first barbershop in the region shortly after. Sadik’s history within the barbering trade goes back generations – even his great grandfather was a barber so you could definitely say it’s in his blood! He dedicated his victory to his father Kadirbhai Khalifa who flew over from India especially to watch his son win his title.

New Foss Academy app puts learning at your fingertips One of the UK’s top barbers is offering to help his fellow professionals make the next step on their career journey, all via the medium of a smartphone app. Aimed at learners, barbers and barbershop owners, the new app has been developed by top international stylist Chris Foster and The Foss Academy. The Foss Academy Education app covers all ranges and abilities, and will give both learners and experienced barbers the chance to learn some of the skills and techniques that have taken Chris to the top. And central to the app’s benefit to learners is its video library, containing six of Chris’s inspirational YouTube masterclass series, over 35 free videos in total. Available for smartphones on iOS and Android, the free app also contains direct links to a wealth of innovative learning resources

6 | BarberNV Magazine

including information on training and courses and a gallery of contemporary mens’ styles. Chris said, “The Foss Education app will give barbers at any level the chance to be mentored by me via their smartphones, whether that’s through my YouTube videos, my courses or my workshops and seminars. “With over 35 videos, this app packs one heck of a punch in such a small package, and puts the path to career advancement literally at your fingertips. I wish something like this had been around when I was learning my craft, as it means you can take your learning with you anywhere and access it at any time – even if like most barbers you are always on the go.” The Foss Academy Education app is available free of charge from iTunes and Google Play. For more information, go to www.fossacademy.co.uk

The Bluebeards Revenge is named as Wahl of fame proud partner for Suicide Squad Premium men’s grooming brand The Bluebeards Revenge has been named as the official marketing partner for brand new Warner Bros. film, Suicide Squad. The brand has teamed up with the movie for an advertising campaign in the lead-up to its release in cinemas on August 5, and is running a huge competition to give one lucky person the chance to win an exclusive private screening for themselves and their friends. During the campaign select products from across the brand’s range will bear promotional Suicide Squad stickers, with several adverts due to appear in high-profile men’s magazines Men’s Fitness, Forever Sports and Sport over the coming months. The Bluebeards Revenge website and social media channels will be

Jacks of London does the double The Jacks of London team pulled off a stunning mixed doubles victory this month, opening a swish new store on England’s south-west coast while simultaneously taking on the role of barbers to the world’s tennis elite. A hand-picked team of Jacks barbers spent a week tending to the grooming needs of topseeded competitors at the Aegon men’s tennis championships, which finished with Scot Andy Murray’s victory over Canadian Milos Raonic on Sunday. For the tennis, at London’s Queen’s club, Jacks of London was selected as official barbering and grooming partner, serving up its trademark blend of traditional and contemporary styling, along with its own-brand The True Gent product range, to make sure all the players were kept looking their best, with not a hair out of place, as play hotted up on court.

co-branded during the campaign and the company will also promote the film’s launch via its extensive email database. Nick Gibbens, Marketing Manager for The Bluebeards Revenge, said that the brand was thrilled to be involved. He said: “Suicide Squad is a great fit for us, as it’s quite unconventional in that it centres around unlikely heroes. As a brand, we are also known for being out of the ordinary, with a tongue-in-cheek marketing campaign and an off-the-wall skull and crossbones logo, which is traditionally used as a sign of danger. “We’re really excited to be a part of it all, and we can’t wait to see the film ourselves. It’s all set to be a very successful marketing partnership.”

If you’re interested in finding out more about the distinguished history of clipper giants Wahl, you may want to consider a pilgrimage to their home of Sterling, Illinois, where they’ve just opened a museum full of Wahl mementos. Among the incredible exhibits on show are Leo Wahl, founder of the company’s original barber chair, a set of Wahl clippers that have been to space, and the original patent for Leo’s first set of clippers that would revolutionise the industry. For the Wahl, or simply barbering, enthusiast there’s a plethora of information about the company and their rise to become the biggest in the game. A world map shows how Wahl have gone to all four corners of the globe and you can get up close and personal with some rare, vintage products. If you’ve got a trip planned to America, Illinois might be worth a stop.

elementary, barber pro A firm favourite in the BarberNV offices, BARBER PRO’s Post Shave Cooling Masks are also proving popular across the worlds of entertainment and sport. Packed with collagen to nourish and hydrate after your shaving regime, the casts of BBC’s Sherlock and Amazon Prime’s The Collection have been using them to firm and smooth the skin pre-makeup, while England rugby stars Anthony Watson and Jonathan Joseph have both been pictured with their BARBER PRO mugs. They are quickly becoming the TV industry’s make-up artists must have product.

BarberNV Magazine | 7

Fighting for you The results of the EU referendum are in and the UK voted Leave. The Federation didn’t make a case for voting one way or the other as we believe it’s an individual choice. But we’ll continue fighting for our industry on key issues which affect your business - whether we’re in the EU or not - including tips, business rates, national minimum and national living wage, VAT, and tax. NHF members get regular opportunities to take part in surveys, giving us a louder voice when it comes to campaigning. Britain’s Best Britain’s Best is the NHF’s national competition which will be taking place on 13 November 2016 at the British Motor Museum in Warwickshire. Entries are now open for this year’s competition. With 11 categories to enter there’s something for everyone. For further information, go to www.britainsbest.me Pensions The NHF’s pension scheme was set up to give guaranteed access to hair salons and barbershops, whether they’re members or not. The pension scheme has gained ‘Master Trust Assurance Framework’ accreditation, showing that it has met operating and governance standards set by the Institute of Chartered Accountants in England and Wales. The majority of barbershops will need to offer a pension scheme to their employees during 2016 or 2017. So if you haven’t done so already, make sure you check your staging date and start preparing for auto-enrolment. For further information on the NHF pension scheme visit www.nhfpensions.co.uk. NHF Guides Check out the growing suite of NHF guides on all aspects of running a small business, including: delivering an outstanding client experience, complaints and the new Consumer Rights Act, recruitment, data protection, marketing, employment law as well as the newly updated guide to the National Minimum Wage which now covers the National Living Wage and commonly asked questions on what counts as working hours, what can and can’t be deducted from wages. NHF membership Keep up to date with all the latest news, views, and business information from the NHF by becoming a member. Get in touch and quote ‘BarberNV’ to receive a £25 discount off your first year’s membership fee. Rates available for barbershop owners/managers or chair renters. To find out more visit www.nhf.info

NHF

8 | BarberNV Magazine

It’s been a busy couple of months for the newly formed City & Guilds Barbering Industry Board who have been quick to make their mark on the barber community. As part of their drive towards improving the standards of barbering and leading to state registration they are running a Barbering Apprentice of the Year competition which will see four winners crowned from each region of the UK – Scotland, England, Wales, and Northern Ireland. For more details and to apply you can download an application form at www.mhfed. com and submit it to info@mhed.com along with photos of one style you think will grab the judge’s attention and put you in the running to become Barbering Apprentice of the Year. The deadline for submissions is the 5th September, 2016, with the Scottish winner being announced at the Surgeon’s Halls, Edinburgh on Sunday 11th September, the Welsh winner at the Parkway Hotel and Spa, Cwmbran, on Sunday 2nd October, the English winner at East Durham College, on Monday 3rd October, and the Northern Irish winner at Belfast Metropolitan College on Monday 10th October. More top barbers have signed on to help improve the City & Guilds Barbering Industry Board including Tom Chapman of the Lions Barber Collective and Lynndy Rolfe, and they have just released the new Level 3 textbook to support the new Level 3 Technical and Level 3 NVQ qualifications in Hairdressing and Barbering. A nationwide tour of CPD events will also be undertaken, starting in Belfast and Manchester, with plenty of City and Guilds work going on in colleges across the UK. There’s plenty more in the pipeline but they are already well on their way to achieving their goal of improving the barbering industry in their first year, by driving young barbers into the industry and giving them a sustained platform to build from. The MHFed will be taking part in international work for City & Guild, and have also been asked to do the Fellowship in Manchester for two days and in London. The MHFed are continuing to keep men’s hairdressing at the forefront from a creativity point of view and will be doing the HJI stage at Salon International.

C&G and the MHfed

Half way through the year already and The Fellowship for British Hairdressing has welcomed over 50 events and mentoring days with many more to come. This really is an exciting time for the extraordinary organisation as they go from strength to strength with membership continuing to grow throughout the UK. It is not just hairdressers that are taking up the chance to be part of this but barbers are increasingly becoming members. Over the past year there has been a significant increase in the number of memberships from the male grooming industry and this has been responded to by The Fellowship. Events are continuing to include men’s hair, but there is also the chance for projects and teams to learn from award winning male grooming experts as part of mentoring days. Now is a great time to join and benefit from masterclasses, networking, stage times, and amazing education for both you and your own team. An example of this growth is most recently the ClubStar Art Team day with Chris Foster. This is an annual programme for 16-25 year olds and young talented individuals can audition for the opportunity to benefit from incredible mentoring days and even stage time. It is amazing just how much they excel throughout the 12 months and this year’s team are going from strength to strength. With male grooming getting increasingly popular, their dates now include barbering and this month they were with award winner Chris Foster. Chris introduced them to incredible techniques and showcased just why this aspect is growing. Applications are due to open this month so to find out how you, or someone you know, could benefit from being part of ClubStar Art Team email Freya at freya@fellowshiphair.com To find out more about The Fellowship and their members why not come along to their Members’ Night on Monday 18th July in Stockport. This event allows members to showcase their expertise with the hope of being spotted for future large shows. It is a calendar date not to be missed and nonmembers can come along and be part of the audience to find out more. A great night is always had! If you aren’t a member yet then take advantage of their “no joining fee” and join now. An action packed calendar awaits you and your team, plus a whole host of other benefits. For more details visit www.fellowshiphair.com or contact Carol on carol@fellowshiphair.com

The Fellowship

Since its inception just over eighteen months ago, BMB has grown from a repost site promoting the work of British barbers to the nation’s fastest growing barbering organisation. “Admittedly, the whole process has been very organic”, explains Anthony Copeland. “Initially our intentions were to promote the vast wealth of barbering talent our nation possesses. As it grew it became apparent that we could do more to support the industry.” The Alliance took another large step forward in its efforts this month with their new website. Having listened to feedback from users, the website was redesigned from the ground up. In time, BMB aim for the new website to become the central hub for British barbering, featuring everything from business support to product reviews. Alliance members, along with the host of benefits they already enjoy, will also have access to exclusive content. “It’s hugely important for us to give back to our members. We’re really excited about starting the next chapter for British Master Barbers and hopefully our members are too!” Since the last NV issue, British Master Barbers have been continuing preparations for October’s MB Live event. Excitement is already building for the event and ticket sales are strong considering BMB’s second live event is still just under five months away. Pall Mall Barbers have recently been announced as the shaving room sponsor. “We’re delighted to have Pall Mall on-board. Some suggested they’d like to see more shaving demonstrations at this year’s event and we couldn’t think of anybody better.” The Guerrilla Barbering Team have also recently been revealed as main stage demonstrators and Autism Barbers Assemble will take residence in the charity orientated room. “Our industry as a whole is incredibly generous. It’s a pleasure to help promote these wonderful causes.” Renowned for their pop-up shops, the Guerrilla Barbers are a hugely talented collective that donate their proceeds to charities supporting homeless young adults. Autism Barbers Assemble is the brainchild of James Williams. Propelled into the public eye by moving photos of himself with young clients, he now plans to unite barbers and spread autism awareness.

The Celtic Manor Resort in Newport held

For tickets and trade stalls are available for MB Live. Vist www.masterbarberlive.com for more details.

state registered barber, please visit

The British Master Barbers

Barber Connect this weekend. The only exhibition which is purely barbering. The Barber Council had a huge presence here, with our own stand where our top state registered barbers: Gary Machin, Gareth Clarke, Jack Robinson-Pullen, Lynndy Rolfe, and Erik Lander performed demos showing shaving and cutting techniques. Simon Shaw of Wahl, who is also a member of the Barber Council, invited our Chairman, Gary Machin, to his stage to explain the importance of becoming a state registered barber. On the Monday, the Barber Council opened on the Jack Dean stage. After an explanation of who we are we took questions from the audience. The main concern across the audience was that barbering is being taught by hairdressers. Erik Lander said that barbers have the ability to teach, however they don’t have the paper qualification which is needed to go into education. MK explained that the barbering qualification has only been around for 16 years. On average, most barbers won’t feel confident enough to teach until they have approximately 10 years experience. Another concern was how to separate the standards between barbering and hairdressing. Erik explained that a new set of standards have been written for barbering which should help differentiate it from hairdressing, and these should be coming into place later this year. Gary Machin closed the seminar by saying that everyone needs to come together, the colleges need to work as businesses and the businesses need to work as schools in order for the industry to benefit from more good quality barbers. The rest of the day was spent with demos from the likes of Tony Haresign, Alex Smith, Yucel Olmezkaya, and Robert Rix. All in all, Barber Connect was a successful weekend for the Barber Council as we were pleased to welcome a number of barbers on board, thanks to the incredible amount of awareness that was raised throughout the exhibition. For information on how to become a www.haircouncil.org.uk or call the office on 020 8760 7010.

The Barber Council

Wow - what a busy few months it has been for the barbering industry! The BBA has been flat out and we are definitely not complaining. Barber UK in May was fantastic – you can really see that the barbering trade is booming as it grows year on year at this show and it’s great to see so many big barbering brands, products, training providers, and associations as well as some inspirational educators on stage. We were proud to see the return of our industry renowned competition finals at the show and some of the talent was phenomenal. A massive well done to all of our finalists and huge congratulations to the winners. The 2016 BBA competition winners are: Britain’s Best Shave – Sadik Khalifa BBA Barber of the Year – Enver Efe Patterns Master – Kade Kut BBA Student Barber (Classic Category) – Jordon Valentine BBA Student Barber (Creative Category) – Gemma Rawnsley BBA Student Barber (Apprentice Category) – Tom Pipkin As always, we wouldn’t be able to bring you these competitions without the support of our sponsors – the Denman brands (Jack Dean, Pro Edge, and Oster), The Bluebeards Revenge, Andis, and Supermax. Barber UK will return to the NEC Birmingham on Sunday 21st and Monday 22nd May 2017. On to June and the return of Barber Connect. This show was bursting at the seams with the biggest names in barbering and was certainly a show not to be missed. The Barber Awards took place on the Sunday evening and BBA founder, Mike Taylor was nominated for Training Academy of the Year. Unfortunately although Mike didn’t win we had a great evening and would like to take this opportunity to congratulate Sid Sottung Academy who won this award. We were also pleased to see some of the brands we work closely with also nominated for different awards including Denman, Jack Dean, and The Bluebeards Revenge. The search is now on to find Britain’s Best Shave Champion 2017. If you think you’ve got what it takes to knock current champion Sadik Khalifa off the podium, look out for entries to open in August.

The British Barbers’ Association

BarberNV Magazine | 9

Coming to Dublin this October – Andrew Does Hair, Layrite’s Donnie Hawley, Johnny the Ba Ba, Joth Davies, Schorem… and BarberNV. We are proud to announce that we are the UK media partner for Barber Cut, an incredible new show that is set to bring Irish barbering to the forefront of the industry. This is no half-baked exhibition. This is pure barbering rock ‘n’ roll with the biggest, wildest names in the industry descending on Dublin for a day of education and entertainment and a night of networking and socialising in one of the greatest cities in the world. From 12 noon until 2am, Barber Cut is a truly unique event in the barbering world and one that is set to light it up. World class talents doing what they do best in intimate surroundings, with the chance to learn and interact with some of your heroes. Guests are encouraged to soak up the atmosphere

Barber UK It’s getting bigger and bigger each year and 2016 was no exception, with everyone agreeing it was the best event yet. It won’t be long until Barber UK takes over the whole of the NEC! One of the biggest draws of the show was the British Barbers’ Association boxing ring which saw a host of top barbers battle it out in competition in front of a thrilled audience. Among the awards handed out were BBA Barber of the Year to Enver Efe, Patterns Master to Kade Kut, and the three BBA Student Barbers of the Year were Jordan Valentine, Gemma Rawnsley, and Tom Pipkin. Of course, all the big names in barbering were in attendance with a multitude of training providers and educators also there to help guide and inspire the next generation of barbers including Sid Sottung Academy.

10 | BarberNV Magazine

not only of the event but also of Dublin itself, coming and going from the venue Opium Rooms, perfectly located in the hippest part of town. There’ll be plenty of opportunities to enjoy the craic! In the run-up to the event we’ll have interviews and features with some of the stars attending, finding out what they’ll be up to in Dublin and why they’re looking forward to it so much (it’s not just for the Guinness, although that helps!). Tickets are like gold dust, and we’ll be running a series of competitions to give some lucky winners the chance to go, so keep your eyes peeled on our Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram accounts. We’ll see you there! Sláinte!

latest fudge range FUDGE Professional and Mazella&Palmer teamed up for the Core Collective show in the iconic Old Granada Studios in Manchester to showcase the FUDGE Professional range alongside the latest colouring and cutting trends and techniques to over 400 hair professional customers of salon distributor, Alan Howard. The evening’s entertainment showcased the work of the Mazella&Palmer creative team working with the FUDGE Professional range to demonstrate different ways and techniques the products can be used to achieve the hottest looks for salon clients in the coming months. Jean-Baptiste Mazella from Mazella&Palmer led the creative team to share tips and tricks from backstage at Paris Fashion Week.

02 OCTOBER / OPIUM ROOMS / DUBLIN

FEATURING

ANDREW Andrew Does Hair / DONNIE HAWLEY Layrite Pomade JOHNNY THE BA BA BarberBarber UK / JOTH DAVIES Savills Barbers MENSPIRE / MITCHEL WILSON Layrite Director of Education THE MOVEMBER FOUNDATION / THE WALDORF EXHIBITORS & FOUNDERS

BARBER NV MAGAZINE / BARBERS & GROOMERS / IRISH BARBER JOURNAL MENSPIRE SCISSORS / POMP & CO / RESURVA ONLINE BOOKING SYSTEMS REUZEL / TRUE BARBER PRODUCTS presenting ADH & LAYRITE PLUS

LIFE TIME ACHIEVEMENT AWARD PRESENTED BY SCHOREM & THE WALDORF BARBER MUSEUM

BARBER CUT DUBLIN is proud to present Ireland's first Barber Festival & Educational Conference, on 2nd October in the Opium Rooms, Dublin. Featuring the biggest names in the business, you will experience all aspects of traditional and modern barbering and shaving techniques. The whole day will end with a party like no other, live music and Djâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s into the night.

This will be the biggest gathering of barbers in one place in Ireland and the social event of the year. Early bird tickets are available now. For tickets & information visit www.barbercutdublin.com Brought to you in partnership with

Images Dave Brown @ davebphotography.co.uk

gbbb brilliance The Great British Barber Bash returned to Glasgow for another smash hit of a day.

osted in the Old Fruitmarket to almost double the capacity of last year’s event, the hundreds of attendees were treated to a day of top quality barbering entertainment from some of the industry’s biggest names. The sell-out audience watched Alan and Reece Beak, Harry and Rhys Green, Luka Chitty, Slicks, Sid Sottung, Rebel Rebel, Neal Toner, the Guerrilla Barbers, the Lions Collective, and many more all strut their stuff, inspiring and educating. A fantastic opportunity to socialise and network over a few drinks, there was also the opportunity to pick-up the latest barbering goods and supplies from the likes of Reuzel, Neocape, Andis, and even Harley Davidson,

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whose customised Hard Grind motorbike was certainly one of the most eye-catching parts of the show. The BarberNV stall was packed out from the first minute as the feisty crowd lapped up the wide variety of barbering industry stalwarts on offer, with a constant throng of people surrounding the stage to take it all in. After the event, everyone moved on to Distrikt for the after-party but we’re sworn to secrecy about what went on there… You’ll have to find out for yourself when The Great British Barber Bash heads to Manchester on the 4th September. Get your tickets now at www.greatbritishbarbersbash.co.uk

PALL MALL BARBERS POP-UP TEAM

UEFA CHAMPIONS LEAGUE FINAL BARBERS Football and barbering go together like Ant and Dec or pie and mash - they are just meant to be. The Pall Mall Barbers were asked by UEFA and MasterCard to come up with a fantastic concept that would allow their valued customers to have a unique and priceless experience.

fter several meetings, quite a few brainstorms, and lots of ideas, the concept was made and the Pall Mall Barbers popup shop was ready to set sail to Milan for the Champions League final. Now the team at Pall Mall Barbers are used to doing an event or two for some of the biggest industry names like Jack Daniels, Google, and Facebook to name a few, however when you are asked to go abroad to one of the fashion capitals of the world to cut hair for the fans in the MasterCard fans zone the bar gets lifted. For the unique experience we decided to provide the fans of Atletico and Real Madrid the opportunity to have a pattern or hair tattoo that corresponds with their favourite player or team. The joy this created for the fans was something that I will never forget with film crews and journalists from all over the world taking pictures of the artwork that the pop-up team created. This included several of the hair tattoos going viral on Instagram and other social media outlets. For the priceless experience we decided to give the fans of Atletico and Real Madrid along with the good people of Milan a taste of what it would be like to visit our 120-year-old shop. This was done by giving them The Pall Mall Barbers luxury haircut service. All of the services were complimentary thanks to the fantastic people at MasterCard and as you can imagine with the talented team that we took to Milan it did not take long for the bookings to fill up and the queues to get very, very long.

The work conditions in Milan were not something that you get in London every day; there were massive language barriers that were rectified with the help of aid translators as well as the sunshine being blistering and the temperature was soaring. The Pall Mall Barbers events team battled on and produced some fantastic work. One of the most surreal moments came before a set of clippers or a pair of scissors had even been lifted. On the first day, as if by fate, the Champions League choir were singing the Champions League anthem as we were walking up the stairs from the subway - that moment truly inspired the entire team. It will stay with us for a long, long time.

Other highlights included showing football legends such as Edgar Davids how to cut hair and meeting such great people all so grateful to receive such a great haircut. However the biggest highlight for myself and the team was how everybody was working together as one and really showed what British barbering is all about. As you can imagine for an event this big we needed the assistance of some of the best barbers in the UK and also needed some great equipment to use. A special thank you goes to Bernice Fowler for providing the fabulous FAB hair tonics and arranging for the use of the amazing Graff*Etch pencil for the hair tattoos. Also to Andis for providing all of the clippers and trimmers allowing us to provide great fresh haircuts. The amazing team at Neocape for providing their invaluable gowns for us to use. Thank you to Pall Mall Grooming for providing the styling products and the sandalwood and clove shaving range that was used in providing a truly priceless experience. The amazingly talented barbers that joined myself were Michael Barby and Mike Farrell of Pall Mall Barbers, MK of MKHSA Hair Studio & Academy, Stacey Ayles of The Gunz, Weymouth, Damian Owen of Elite Town Barbers, and Pat Barry of The Gentry Barber shop. The Pall Mall Barbers love doing events and travelling to all corners of the globe to showcase our talents. If you are interested in joining The Pall Mall Barbers pop-up team send me an email to dan@pallmallbarbers.com.

The biggest highlight for myself and the team was how everybody was working together as one and really showed what British barbering is all about

BarberNV Magazine | 13

High Quality

NEOCAPE Hair Products

Thousands of barbers flocked to The Celtic Manor in Wales for Barber Connect 2016, the biggest show dedicated solely to barbering in the UK. Across two large exhibitions floors and seminar rooms, the biggest companies in the business showed off their latest wares and gadgets. As always, Wahl had a large presence, with Simon Shaw the highlight for many barbers, and their limited edition Cordless Magic Clip skateboards were quickly sold out. Last issue’s Barber of the Month Baldy was a big attraction on the Andis stand while the crowds were out to see our Educator of the Month Chris Foster dispensing knowledge on stage. All the way from the Netherlands, the Schorem team were ripping it up on the Reuzel stand and the Great British Barber Bash attracted a host of fresh talent. BarberNV were there of course, with some help from our friends! Phil Simons from Phunk-U, Lesley MacBain, Neal Toner from JFH, Myles Lewis from Guerrilla Barbering, Sam Massey from Slicks, and Jim The Trim from Autism Barbers Assemble.

THE BARBER AWARDS 2016 INNOVATION OF THE YEAR Barber Pro Facial Shave Mask GROOMING RANGE OF THE YEAR Apothecary 87 STYLING RANGE OF THE YEAR Dapper Dan SHAVING RANGE OF THE YEAR Proraso BARBER OF THE YEAR Charles Gray STUDENT/APPRENTICE OF THE YEAR Amir Stapleton BARBERSHOP OF THE YEAR Barberology BARBERSHOP BUSINESS LEADER OF THE YEAR Karen Waldron of The Barber Shop Group BARBERSHOP TEAM OF THE YEAR Menspire TRAINING ACADEMY OF THE YEAR Sid Sottung Academy It’s the last time the event will be hosted in Wales as it moves to Telford for 2017, and will be completely free to attend. We’ll see you there.

Last issue’s Educator of the Month Alison Scattergood was proving again how right we were to give her that award as she brought two of her incredibly talented students to Barber Connect to perform on the Wahl stage in the seminar room. Lewis Coils, 20, and Alexandra Smith, 22, from East Durham College showed their skills in front of the audience, after Alison was personally invited by Simon Shaw to the UK’s largest barbering show with the aim of changing the negativity surrounding colleges and training courses. The students were chosen because of the skill and confidence they had shown on Alison’s course, with Lewis having already opened his own business and Alexandra recently started in a barber shop. “The students did fab and they absolutely loved it,” said Alison. “Simon gave them good feedback and the whole of the Wahl team thought they were great.”

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Crowds gathered around the British Master Barbers stand at Barber Connect in anticipation of 2016’s UK Barber Battle finals. The 120 entrants had been whittled down to nine finalists and it was time for battle to commence. Three finalists, three categories, and 45 minutes to impress the judges. Any competition that pits creative talents against one another could easily fall foul of egos but the tone was set very early on. Creative Pompadour finalists Sam Wall, George Knight, and Anil Salhan fed off the energy of the crowd and each other as they recreated their twist on a classic. Paul Mac, Matthew Guerin, and Michael Wood were next to enter the fast paced competition. The Freestyle finalists had booked their place with very different looks. Known for his creative style, Paul Mac begin detailing shapes into his model’s vibrantly coloured hair while Matthew and Michael opted for slightly more conservative styles. Drawing a large crowd throughout the day, the second annual UK Barber Battle

was a success. “I would like to thank the British Master Barbers for their hard work in setting up such a fantastic competition. The competition was fierce though and it was a great battle to be a part of!” said Sam Wall. Sam Wall, James Bradbury, and Paul Mac were crowned on the Wahl Stage. It appeared to mean a little extra to Paul Mac. “After two years of coming home empty handed from competitions and many telling me I’d need to tone down my creative style, I’m glad I didn’t compromise.” It’s no surprise that plans are already underway for next year’s competition following the excitement surrounding this year’s battle. “The competition will return next year” confirmed BMB founder Anthony Copeland. “We’d also to like to thank our sponsors, Wahl, Neocape, Fab Hair Tonics, BarberNV, and Hairbond for all their support.” See the winning looks on page 70.

Barber Book Template CC.indd 1

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The Lions Barber Collective are proud to announce the launch of our new #BarberTalk Look Book 2016 at Barber Connect. It’s been a long project with many man-hours put into it from the likes of Paul Mac, Pat Barry, Alan Beak, Daisy Walker, Harry Green, Rhys Green, Jac Ludlow, and produced by Colum McCormack – some phenomenal talent, all of whom volunteered their skills to help raise money. It’s only £15 and all the proceeds go to Papyrus and Pieta House, two amazing charities that are doing a lot to help prevent suicide. You can purchase your copy at www. barberblades.co.uk. There’s so much more to come as we head over to the B-Groomed Expo in Chicago where we’ll be taking part in barber talks about our cause and showcasing our own collection. Once we get back from that we are pushing forward with our amazing virtual reality training prototype with the NHS – incredible technology that could help save lives in the future. After months of hard work it’s great to say we are finally starting to see the fruits of our labour. We know we’ve helped a lot people but we can actually say we have saved at least four lives. We thought if we saved one then it would have been worth it and our work would be done, but now it’s progressing further and we have more to do.

The Lions Barber Collective BarberNV Magazine | 15

You’ve met Guerrilla Barbering before but now it’s time for us to make everyone fully aware of who we are and what we do.

e are happy to introduce a new platform of the collective, Guerrilla Gang, a cartel of talented people who aim to raise money and awareness for the charity Centrepoint. Centrepoint aim to give homeless youths aged 16-25 a chance to get the future they deserve. By tackling issues such as addiction, mental health problems, and anything else that leads to homelessness, they are a vital support network for over 7,000 youths. Our plan is to give everything we can to this charity, along with creating an atmosphere that they can be part of in the future. The way we plan to do this is by bringing through barbers into our world and improving the image of the less fortunate. Our new Guerrilla Gang already features some talented barbers who are willing to go above and beyond to help others.

• Jake Lansley, owner of Jake’s Barber Shop in Hornchurch, Essex • Kem Cetinay, a young barber who is coming through the ranks and inspiring others with dedication that is second to none

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• Emma Casson, owner of Black Heart Barber Shop, in Basildon, Essex • Holly Regis who has been a hairdresser for nine years and we are now training to be one of the hottest up and coming barbers around • Simon Smithurst has only been barbering for two years but has amazing skill and talent and a real drive to push the industry forward We also have some of the biggest and most well respected barbers in the industry representing the Guerrilla Gang including Alan and Reece Beak of Ruger. They are truly talented individuals who are keen to help out and share their experience. We are currently in the process of recruiting some even more influential names so watch out. As we grow bigger and increase our reach, we plan on bringing you even more incredible events across the UK that will all go to benefit Centrepoint. They are at the heart of everything that we do and whether it’s working with the Street Football Association or helping with education, every penny we raise goes back to Centrepoint to fund more projects and help the less fortunate.

Already in the pipeline we have a style bible presented by BarberNV, more pop-up shops on the way, and we’re preparing for an event at the end of August that will be even bigger than our last one in Shoreditch which raised over £1,000. Keep your eyes peeled on our social media channels for more details as we get closer. We couldn’t do all of this for Centrepoint without the support of not only the barbers who donate their free time but also the sponsors who have been with us throughout our journey including Dapper Dan, Denman, Andis, Neocape, and Italy Hair and Beauty. We are currently in talks with an exclusive presentation sponsor which will be released via social media and BarberNV. The Guerrilla Gang will be out in force at trade shows this year and we invite you all to come along and support us. In September we’ll be at The Great British Barber Bash in Manchester and you can buy tickets from www. greatbritishbarbersbash.co.uk. We’ll also be attending Salon International as we really want to get across the message of Guerrilla Barbering and raise the profile of Centrepoint across the UK. Watch this space for more details on what to expect from the Guerrilla Gang going forward, but you’ll be seeing a lot more of us and we’ll be doing everything we can to make a difference to the less fortunate. Facebook: GuerrillaBarbering, Twitter: @ GuerrillaBarber, Instagram: GuerrillaBarbering

We were lucky enough to be given a stand at Barber Connect for Autism Barbers Assemble to showcase our cause and help people understand what we’re doing. Many barbers don’t realise you can still increase your revenue while working on children, and we’re keen to educate barbers on how to do it. Our non-profit organisation is now up and running and at Barber Connect we managed to sell plenty of tops and window stickers, one of which has already made it down to Seville in Spain! If you’d like to purchase some ABA merchandise, with all the money going to the charity, you can do so at www.aba. nearcut.com, and we’d like to thank Nearcut for hosting our website free of charge and recommend barbers give them a try. We’re now looking forward to our big event in Paisley on Sunday, August 28th. A host of top barbers will be helping myself out, including Davie Walker, Jamie Stuart, Gary Cox, Jack Pullen, Tyra Grundy, Jamie Hill, Martine Van Rijswijk, and Andrea Tierney, and we’re looking at cutting the hair of up to 50 children with autism. It’s a chance for families to feel comfortable and have the acceptance they deserve. We hope to raise a lot of money for the Swansea branch of the National Autistic Society and also a local group in Scotland called Applause for Autism. Meanwhile, I’m off to Chicago for B-Groomed where I’ll be giving a talk to over 100 barbers on how to work around autism if they’re not familiar with it. It should be an exciting adventure.

Autism Barbers Assemble BarberNV Magazine | 17

HAIL, CVESAR! An interview with Larry the Barber Man

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“Kids say ‘I want to be a rapper, I want to be a ball player’, it’s cool to say that barber is now added to that list.”

ulius Cvesar is relaxing in the world famous Champs barbershop in London, at the start of a four-leg tour of Europe that will also see him visit the Brighton Tattoo Convention, Paris, and Prague before he heads even further afield to Jakarta and Bali. It’s the first time he’s been back to Europe in over a year and the incredible growth in the barbering industry, which sees barbers spoken of in the same breath as sports stars and celebrities, means his reputation precedes him. Despite being only 27-years old, Julius has been barbering for more than half his life and his hard work has paid off, with Wahl and Layrite among the barbering giants that have signed him up to promote their products. He owns his own shop in LA, Grey Matter, alongside his friend and business partner Vince Garcia who has made the journey across the pond with him to meet Karel Cavalier. “We originally came out here to teach in

Prague at Cavalier Barbershop,” Julius tells me during a break from cutting on the shop floor. “We’re holding one of the Czech Republic’s first barber battles and being able to showcase and educate some hands-on courses out there as well. “Karel also wanted to see what else is going on in Europe so I said what better way to match it around the Brighton Tattoo Convention and see the guys here at Champs. It’s cool to see where our homies have got to in a year.” It’s the result of a partnership spawned when Karel took a trip to California to check out the American scene. “All the networking I do has to be organic, it has to be genuine,” Julius explains. “He came by the shop, showed us love. Vince and our other barber Daniel showed him around, went to visit a few American barber suppliers, and one conversation led to another. He really liked what was going on at Grey Matter, what

me and Vince portray over there in terms of LA and the barber scene. Next thing you know we ended up setting up Prague’s first barber battle and education course, literally bridging the gap between what we got going on in LA and over there in Prague with the Bridging the Gap course.” Education is Julius’s way of giving back to a community that has given him everything. The day his mum put a pair of clippers in his hand as a teenager and told him to cut his brother’s, his dad’s, and his grandfather’s hair, he could never have imagined those Wahl clippers would have helped him travel the world. Julius laughs. “And now I’m sponsored by them! That’s crazy!” He is indeed, having been appointed an Artistic Educator and Ambassador of the biggest company in barbering, a position coveted by barbers around the globe. u

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“I wanted to tell the world the moment they had interest in me,” he admits. “I was like ‘Ya’ll, look who’s hitting me up!’ but I had to keep it under wraps for the longest time. I’d say it was a good four month process of multiple email interviews and calls, sending people to watch me at different shows and then sending different How Tos – How Tos with no sound, How Tos with talking, all sorts of stuff. “But it all started out from a woman called Christina Goree (Wahl USA Global Educator). She actually contacted me saying they were looking for oriental barbers that could possibly do education but that are bilingual, specifically Chinese, and obviously I don’t speak Chinese but I said I’d help, I’ll look around and see who might be able to do that but in all honest truth I don’t know anybody. But before you hang up this call if you guys are looking for somebody then let me know. “Closed mouths don’t get fed right? I’m a strong believer in manifestation. Then the next thing you know about a month and a half later I get this call like ‘Hey were you serious about what you said about trying to do something with Wahl?’ “I tried to stay as calm as I can on the phone like ‘Yeah’, but really in my mind I was like ‘Fuck Yeah!’. Next thing I know I went through all those processes as they wanted to make sure this was something I really wanted to do. “For me, the way I see it is why not work with a company that I already stand behind? It was my first clippers, was the ones my mom bought me. I could easily express my passion behind it because I already know how to use it.” When it rains it pours, and just as Wahl were making their play to sign up Julius, another of his favourite brands, Layrite, brainchild of last issue’s big interview Donnie Hawley, also snapped him up to help with education. “Layrite was crazy. All of this was coming at the same time and keep in mind for me being able to work with multiple companies is actually an extremely blessed situation because I know companies don’t do that a lot for anybody.” It was another no brainer for the Grey Matter man. Julius says, “They’ve supported me in my barbering career since early on. I mean Layrite’s been around since 1999 so it’s a strong, improving brand and I stand behind it. There’s always been a situation where it’s a family thing with not only Donnie but also Mike Clem over there always showed love for me and the guys. We’ve always had Layrite and the product was something I’ve used and I know about and I can stand behind.

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When you come in this chair we don’t have to be from the same walk of life, we don’t even have to speak the same language but we impact people’s lives because of it. “It worked out and I’ve been able to travel with them to all the biggest hair shows in the States the past year and it’s been an amazing experience. Donnie’s crazy as hell, as most of the world knows, and I like crazy. Crazy matches what I got going on so it works out!” With his rise in prominence coinciding with the ‘barber boom’ of recent years, there’s never been a better time to be in the industry, but for Julius it wasn’t about being trendy. “It’s pure creative freedom. I love cutting hair, I love putting smiles on people’s faces, that’s all amazing but it’s definitely something where you’re able to have the freedom to be my own boss, to build my own world around it. I set up my own schedules, I have as many tattoos as I want, dress however I want. “I have all these young kids contacting me on Instagram saying ‘Hey I want to get into the

I get inspired by other guys here in Europe and I try to inherit some of that knowledge and skillset by just watching guys like Kevin Luchmun, Alan and Reece Beak, and the guys at Menspire

barber world. I’ve never cut hair before but I really look up to you and your lifestyle’ and that’s insane! That’s insane to think about. I mean, I didn’t get into this thinking it was cool. I never seen it as oh wow people would want to follow in my footsteps. “What makes me love it so much is the fact this is a universal language. When you come in this chair we don’t have to be from the same walk of life, we don’t even have to speak the same language but we impact people’s lives because of it. That’s why you’re able to go around the world and share this message. “I’m gonna literally go teach in front of people who barely understand what I’m saying and I know I can let them absorb my message because of the passion.” Although he’s only on a whistle-stop visit to the UK, it won’t be long until Julius is back, with an appearance at the Great British Barber Bash scheduled for September in Manchester. “What am I going to do for the Great British Barber Bash? I’m not too sure yet”, he tells me. “Right now, currently, I get inspired by other guys here in Europe and I try to inherit some of that knowledge and skillset by just watching guys like Kevin Luchmun, Alan and Reece Beak, the guys at Menspire. Although I aspire to be inspired by what they do out here, I know I gotta try to be something different because I don’t want to do what is expected - so that stresses me out and I think stress is good because it shows that I care.” Much like his Roman namesake, we expect him to come, see, and conquer.

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

www.greatbritishbarberbash.com

OSMO® ELITE POMADE™

Get theLook

STEP 1: THE CUT

• Create a low skinfade taking the clippers down to a zero from the nape of the neck down. Do the same on both sides, just above the ear. • Next use balding clippers to take the cut in closer, graduating downwards. • Finish with foil clippers approximately 1cm up from the neck line to create a sharp edge finish. • Trim the hair and chop in to add texture and depth, keeping length towards the front. • Use detailer clippers to create a ‘hard parting’ and finish with an open blade for clean definition. • Add OSMO® Beard Complex™ to the back of the neck to deeply nourish the skin post fade.

STEP 2: CREATE THE POMP • Wet the hair and apply a generous amount of OSMO® Extreme Volume Mega Styling Foam throughout for maximum volume and texture.

•

A modern, super hold, water soluble pomade designed to achieve a variety of styles from skyscraper pomps to slick backs with no sticky residue. With an incredible

Blowdry using a vent or be-bop brush to shape the style and create maximum height working forward from the crown and up and back from the face.

• Once desired shape is achieved, blast with a shot of cool air to help ‘set’ the style.

STEP 3: SETTING THE STYLE •

Once dry, shape the hair with a streaker comb before applying OSMO® Elite Pomade™ to finish. (Applying Elite Pomade™ with a comb will create a sleeker finish while application with the fingers creates more texture).

• Finally, spray a generous amount of OSMO® Extreme Extra Firm Hairspray all over to set firmly in place.

Juicy Fruit fragrance, Elite Pomade™ will have your hair looking and smelling fresh and on point. RRP: 25ml £3.55, 100ml - £8.45

OSMO® BEARD COMPLEX™ An intense conditioning oil with a refreshing grapefruit fragrance infused with Argan Oil, rich in vitamins A & E, to deeply nourish, condition and restore both hair and skin to pristine condition. Applied to tattoos, Beard Complex™ helps bring colours back to life! RRP: 10ml - £7.80, 100ml - £17.80

LOW FADE, HARD PARTED POMP –

Done!

OSMO® EXTREME VOLUME MEGA STYLING FOAM A modern, lightweight styling foam formulated with Soybean Oil and Rice Protein to thicken and strengthen each hair strand for maximum volume with added texture and no sticky residue. Applied pre blow dry, this wonder foam helps achieve skyscraper heights in all modern pomp styles and long-lasting, textured hold in longer lengths. RRP: 245ml £10.50

OSMO® EXTREME EXTRA FIRM HAIRSPRAY 500ml A volumising hairspray for extra firm hold and long-lasting control. With a zesty fresh orange and grapefruit fragrance, this hairspray will hold your style all day with no sticky residue, yet brushes out with ease. Cut and styling by OSMO Brand Ambassador Davie Walker.

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RRP: 500ml £12.35

introducing new â&#x201E;˘

a super hold, water soluble pomade for skyscraper pomps and slick backs with no sticky residue

grooming www.osmo.uk.com Cut & Styling by OSMOÂŽ Brand Ambassador Davie Walker

PRODUC T

Andis USPro Cordless Li With a lightweight casing and sleek, ergonomic style, it’s comfortable and tactile, with all the power, strength, reliability, and high-speed precision blade you’ve come to expect from the corded model. It powers through multiple cuts with ease, guaranteeing barbers and stylists the ultimate manoeuvrability. £69.99 + VAT – www.andis.com

Squire Clay Fab Friction Hair Tonic

Reuzel Beard Balm This mild, woodsy beard balm features shea butter and argan oil, with a light to medium hold. Reuzel designed this balm to tame and soften hair, as well as reduce beard itch and ‘beardruff’. Look for it to repair split ends and promote thicker hair.

Created for those who want to look and feel like a champion, the Fab Friction Hair Tonic’s blend of refined spices will tingle your senses as soon as you massage this tonic into your hair. £9.99 –

New from Squire, this Clay gives a firm hold that remains dry and re-workable, allowing you to effortlessly reshape your hair when you need to. Great for achieving a thicker/fuller appearance for thinner hair. £11.49 – www.squirehair.co.uk

fabhairandbeauty.com

£11.99 – www.reuzel.co.uk

Johnny’s Chop Shop Hell Gell This firm hold styling gel helps to mould firm shapes and adds a light shine and polish with frizz control and humidity resistance. Packed with aloe vera and pro vitamin B to provide long lasting moisture, improve lustre and sheen, and help prevent hair damage. £5.50 – www.boots.com

American Crew Grooming Cream Used to create a straight, sleek look or to soften naturally curly or wavy hair with conditioning elements such as aloe vera. High hold with high shine, American Crew Grooming Cream repels moisture to keep styles intact all day long. £10.60 – www.mankind.co.uk

Editor’s ChoiceENVY 24 | BarberNV Magazine

Fudge Light Hed-ed Hair Oil A lightweight mist created to help you control unruly hair, Fudge Light Hed-ed Hair Oil repairs stubborn split ends and damaged hair to reveal silky, smooth locks. Feeding the hair essential nutrients, the non-greasy oil formula won’t weigh the hair down and makes your hair manageable, allowing you to style it as you desire. £9.71 – www.fudgehair.co.uk

Welcome to the House of Reuzel What Leen, Bertus and The Scumbag Barbers do better than anything else is cut hair. Classic barbering for them, is a profession, beyond a skill, beyond a craft. It’s a mission, a calling – a commitment to provide nothing but the very best pomps, quiffs, flat tops, fades and razor shaves on the planet, as featured on Schorem’s famous barbershop posters. Since its opening, Schorem has been frequented by greasers, rockers, bikers, psychobillys, ruffians and other fine gentleman scumbags from every echelon of society. So when they couldn’t find the right pomades worthy of their exacting standards, they went and formulated their own – and Reuzel was born. More than fifty years of barbering and grooming experience went into creating these products (plus a lot of love), so Leen and Bertus hope you like them as much as they do –

Welcome to the House of Reuzel!

For more info call 01392 365177 or visit www.reuzel.co.uk Reuzel UK

@reuzeluk

@Reuzel

PRODUC T

American Crew Fiber When you’re working with shorter hair, American Crew Fiber helps thicken, texturise, and increase fullness. It provides a strong pliable hold with a matte finish, and a smooth after feel, protecting against moisture loss while giving total control. £11.85 – www.mankind.co.uk

Osmo Extreme Volume Mega Styling Foam The Osmo revolution continues to soar with the launch of another product in the Extreme Volume range. This lightweight styling foam delivers mega volume and textured hold whatever the hair type. This wonder foam is the ultimate primer for long-lasting, frizz free, extreme volume styles.

Man Made No.1 Texture Salt Spray The starting point to a slick hair style, Man Made No.1 Texture Salt Spray adds thickness and definition as a base before you sculpt your desired finish. Leave to dry naturally for that “day after the night before” feel. £15.95 – www.manmadelondon.com

£10.50 – www.osmo.uk.com

Layrite Natural Matte Cream A smooth, lightweight formula that will hold your hair in place all day without weighing it down. Whatever your style may be, from laid back to a more defined texture look, it will leave a natural and healthy finish. $18 – www.layrite.com

Johnny’s Chop Shop Wild Cat Hair Clay A hair sculpting clay with a strong hold, matte finish. Delivers a dishevelled and structured look with some serious muscle for those gravity defying styles.

Uppercut Monster Hold

£7 – www.boots.com

Does exactly what it says on the tin to keep your hair steady and shipshape in any condition – tornadoes, hurricanes, tsunamis – it doesn’t matter, Uppercut Monster Hold can handle it. Probably.

Fudge Professional TRI-BLO

£16 – www.uppercutdeluxe.com

Take on any style with TRI-BLO, a multipurpose blow dry spray designed to prime, protect, and add shine. Provides weightless textures and natural invisible hold to leave cuticles smooth and shiny. Light and non-sticky, it works hard so you don’t have to. £8.96 – www.fudgehair.co.uk

StylingENVY 26 | BarberNV Magazine

PRODUC T

Andis T-Outliner

XTR™ Technology – Cooler, quieter and powerful

Replacement Blade, Item 04521

Andis Pro Alloy

Clipper blade adjusts from size XTR technology provides an extreme 000 toAndis’s 1 temperature reduction while keeping the clipper running efficiently and quietly. The stylish and sleek dual-tone housing contains a high speed, reliable magnetic motor for a powerful and efficient cut. £77+VAT – www.andis.com 9 Attachment combs included: 1/16", 1/8", 1/4", 3/8", 1/2", 5/8", 3/4", 7/8", 1"

Perfect for all-around outlining, dry shaving, and fading, the Andis T-Outliner is equipped with close-cutting, carbon-steel T-blade, specially hardened for long cutting life. It’ll be a must have in any barber’s toolkit. Available soon – www.andis.com

BaByliss PRO ItaliaBRAVA Mrs (or bank balance) won’t let you have a Ferrari? Well now you can with the ItaliaBRAVA, powered by a MaxLife PRO brushless motor designed in collaboration with the Italian supercar manufacturer. With stronger air pressure and faster airflow, advanced professional drying is guaranteed.

£120 – www.babylisspro.co.uk • Perfect for all-around outlining, dry shaving Kit includes: Kit includes: TR™ technologyand provides fading • Trimmer erature reduction while • Clipper • Blade oil • Equipped with close-cutting, carbon-steel per running efficiently • 9 Attachment combs: • Detachable plugs for Europe, T-blade, specially hardened for long cutting life 1/16", 1/8", 1/4", 3/8", 1/2", and Australia (05105 unit only) 35% cooler and 10% quieter 5/8", 3/4", 7/8", 1" • Powerful magnetic motor runs cool and quiet ™ Clipper Corioliss C1 Carbon Fiber•Professional Blade guard and oil • motor Contoured with high-speed able magnetic Among housing the best multi-purpose hair motor straighteners of its size, the Corioliss C1 are ideal for straightening hair or creating gorgeous curls or flicks. Featuring inch wide titanium floating plates using body with ergonomic • Heavy-duty,are 2.5 meter cord with hanger loop ure and comfortablewhich grip all suitable for all hair types and particularly effective on thick/coarse hair. £74 – www.uk.corioliss.com

stable carbon steel blade 0 to 1 duo-tone housings

Panasonic GP80 Clipper

The one you’ve been waiting for, the Cordless Magic Clip feeds hair through faster and visibly improves blending. Utilising high precision blade grinding technology along with the highest quality steel suitable for haircutting, it provides one of the best professional cutting performances on the market.

Released in collaboration with Denman, the Panasonic GP80 Clipper offers unrivalled Japanese tempered blades and patented technology, superior linear motor for constant power, and a hi-tech X-Taper blade that firmly catches and cuts the hair.

£84.99 + VAT – www.coolblades.co.uk

£174 + VAT –

Wahl Cordless Magic Clip

ElectricalENVY 28 | BarberNV Magazine

www.denmanpro.com

The NEW top three from Andis. PRO ALLOY™

ADJUSTABLE BLADE CLIPPER

Catalog Sheet

Professional B&B• Extreme temperature reduction while keeping the clipper running efficiently and quietly International

• High speed, reliable magnetic motor • Stylish and sleek duo-tone housings

Kit includes: • Clipper • 9 Attachment combs: 1/16", 1/8", 1/4", 3/8", 1/2", 5/8", 3/4", 7/8", 1" • Blade guard and oil

TRIMMER

The wait is nearly over - available soon!

04521

800-335-4093

T-OUTLINER® • Perfect for all-around outlining, dry shaving and fading • Powerful magnetic motor runs cool and quiet • Heavy-duty. 2/5 meter cord with hanger loop

Kit includes: • Trimmer • Blade oil • Detachablewww.andis.com plugs for Europe, info@andisco.com 2015-823 and Australia (05105 unit only)

CORDLESS USPRO™ Li ADJUSTABLE BLADE CLIPPER • Rotary motor power with cord/cordless convenience • Slide adjustment lever perfect for cutting tapers and fades • Lightweight for greater comfort - weighs less that 10oz

For your local stockists contact Styling Products UK/Groomers Ltd

01635 581 958 • andis.styling@groomers-online.com

PRODUC T

Fuzz Muzzle Sticky Toffee Beard Balm Inspired by The Boss at Fuzz Muzzle’s sticky toffee mishap, he decided to turn the classic British dessert into his first ever beard product. Balanced by nutty, chocolatey undertones this amazing scent is sure to get you out of any sticky situation. £12.95 – www.fuzzmuzzle.com

Jason Shankey Smooth Shaving Cream

Reuzel Beard Foam This foaming, leave-in beard conditioner deodorises and softens your beard, all while soothing the skin beneath. The patent-pending formula helps reduce itch and ‘beardruff’, promotes thicker hair, tames rogue hairs, and repairs split ends.

A highly effective daily use shaving cream formula that eases the shaving process, smoothing and hydrating the surface of the skin and beard to ensure the closest and cleanest shave. Moisturising and cleansing extracts work during the shave to rehydrate, soothe and condition the beard area. £4.99 – www.salon-services.com

£11.99 – www.reuzel.co.uk

Oak Beard Oil Serious and respectful, Oak takes care of men with beards the way you’ve come to expect from your barber. This oil softens the beard, nourishes and soothes the skin, with all natural ingredients in traditional trappings, this is nononsense quality.

Lock, Stock & Barrel Argan Blend Shave Oil It might seem different from your usual form, but his combination of argan and natural oils is a great way to get the ultimate fast dry finish. Harvested from argan trees in Morocco, the oil is a great source of fatty acid, vitamin E, and antioxidants. £14.50 – www.sidsottungacademy.com

£32 – www.oakbeardcare.com

FAWCETT BEARD & MOUSTACHE COMPETITION Proudly Supplying First Class Gentleman’s Grooming Requisites to the best barbers in & around the world.

in association with Captain Fawcett, Sid Sottung & Banks Barbershop Congratulations to @papalazzarou who took home first prize in our #FawcettFaceFur competition with @captainfawcett! Judges @sidsottungacademy @banksbarbershop and @barbernvmagazine were impressed with the facial fuzz on display and the Captain humbly offers @papalazzarou a Leather Washbag/Barbers Tool Bag and a Ricki Hall Booze & Baccy gift set in tribute.

Shaving, Beard & MoustacheENVY 30 | BarberNV Magazine

w w w . c a p ta i n f aw c e t t . c o m

BarberNV Magazine | 31

PRODUC T

Feather Professional Artist Club SS Scotch Wood Razor Beautifully designed with a scotch wood handle, and spring-mounted, one-touch mechanism blade head. The ultimate replaceable blade shaving razor, it’s made with the strictest pursuit of perfection in razor shaving for professional barbers. £? – www.sidsottungacademy.com

Matakki Winner Congratulations to Adam Stephens @AdamGilmor who correctly identified that Blue Oyster Cult sang “Don’t Fear the Reaper” in our Matakki competition on Twitter, and wins himself a pair of Matakki Reaper scissors! Keep your eyes peeled for more chances to win with BarberNV.

M T KKI V V

S e r i o u s

M e t a l

Glamtech Sword Miraki Hybrid X With its distinctive crystal tension wheel designed for ease of adjustment, the Miraki Hybrid X is memorable and stylish with a red crystal and gold finish. Available in four sizes from 4.5” to 6”, all in polished finish.

An update on an old favourite, the Sword has a powerful mountain back blade and even smoother performance than before. Ultra-precise thumb screw enables tension setting without using a separate tool. Supplied with a luxury scissor and tool wallet suitable for two scissors, combs, and accessories. £144 – www.glamtech.co.uk

£245 – www.yoiscissors.co.uk

Matakki Vintage Joewell Cobalt Black Featuring a lightweight and smooth action, the black cobalt alloy really gives these scissors a great feel. The Joewell Cobalt Black feature standard blades which are ideal for everyday use and are the perfect tool for professional hair stylists.

Vintage by name, vintage by design, these are not only a professional tool but also a beautiful piece of art. Manufactured from top quality Japanese cobalt alloy. You’ll fall in love at the very first cut and if you use promo code BARBERNV at the checkout you’ll get them for just £200 £265 without special code – www.matakki.com

£299.95 – www.joewell.co.uk

Scissors & ThinnersENVY 32 | BarberNV Magazine

P RO DU C T

London Beard Company Wooden Folding Comb Handmade from walnut wood, this is a great portable comb for daily use. This beautifully designed comb is suitable for all types of hair. The wooden body also helps eliminate any beard frizz and static. Use on a regular basis before or after applying beard oil to keep a well-groomed and tidy beard. £22 – www.londonbeardcompany.com

Jack Dean Fade Brush With extra soft bristles which gently remove newly trimmed hair, allowing the barber to check for any imperfections during the cut. The tear-drop handle is excellent for comfortable grip and control during styling. £6.25 – www.denmanpro.com

Oak Beard Brush

Matakki MT05c A true professional carbon cutting comb, it’s manufactured with the best carbon resulting in a sleek matt finish. This makes the comb strong, durable, and extremely lightweight so it’s balanced and a dream to work with.

The strong natural bristles are ideal for keeping your beard in shape, no matter how hirsute you are. Massages the skin and shapes the beard to give your face a full cleanse. £21 – www.oakbeardcare.com

£10 – www.matakki.com

Murdock Wood Beard Brush

YS Park Comb

A beard brush is an essential part of a gent’s beard maintenance regime and this is the ideal grooming tool to keep your beard in shape and isolate long hairs for trimming. Best used in conjunction with the rest of the Murdock’s Beard Care Range.

This Japanese comb is made from durable heat resistant, and flexible plastic that’s ergonomically designed for the hand. Ideal for clipper/scissor over comb work.

£12 – www.murdocklondon.com

£14 – www.sidsottungacademy.com

Combs & BrushesENVY BarberNV Magazine | 33

PRODUC T Reuzel Barber Pole This fantastic new barber pole from the guys at Reuzel lights up and is the perfect way to display your Reuzel pomades. You can even get it absolutely gratis with selected offers on their site. £70 – www.reuzel.co.uk

Custom Belmont Chair These unique and fully customisable chairs are sure to be a talking point for your customers. This Custom Belmont Legacy 55 Original has been restored with the inclusion of the Andy’s Barber Shop logo to make it the defining point of the store. £3,500 + logo – www.custombelmont.co.uk

Barber Pro Moustache Lights We moustache you a question, do you like to get your tache on? These fun lights will make your shop the talk of the down, and fully verify your facial hair credentials. Or at the very least they look really cool. £49 + VAT – www.barberpro.com

Paragon Microfibre Hair Drying Towel Lightweight and ultra-soft, these towels are a step above your usual fare and absorb more than four times the moisture and water of a conventional towel. They can be machine washed and tumble dried over 500 times without affecting the unique microfibres so you can guarantee luxury for longer. £1.95 www.paragonmicrofibre.com

WBX Vivaldi Barber Station

Neocape Soft and Supple Collar

Designed in conjunction with Joseph Lanzante for the modern barber, it couples traditional looks with unsurpassed WBX quality. Comes in natural mahogany in standard with white marble tops but a wide range of custom colours are available.

The Soft and Supple Collar provides a comfortable seal on the skin, preventing fluids running down the client’s neck when working with watery lather during a shave.

£2,168 + VAT – www.salonsupplies.co.uk

£14.95 – www.neocape.co.uk

Furniture & EquipmentENVY 34 | BarberNV Magazine

vivaldi barber station

New for 2016 we present our Vivaldi Barber Station Range. Designed for the modern barber, it couples traditional looks with unsurpassed WBX quality. These units are perfect partners for our M-100 and Balmoral barber chairs. Modular in construction, the range is fully customisable and packed with practical features. Units come as standard in natural mahogany with white marble tops but a wide range of custom colours is available at a modest extra charge. Designed in conjunction with renowned teaching barber Joseph Lanzante and beautifully built from solid mahogany. No veneer here !

www.wbxeurope.com

(44) (0) 191 221 2666

at Barber UK

The calm before the storm… the girls ready for the doors to open.

The BEC team recently hit Barber UK in Birmingham on 22nd and 23rd May with some brand new Premier products, exclusively designed for BEC; including the ever so popular Legion barber chair, Tornado barber chair and the vintage green Chester sofa.

e were one of the proud sponsors of the BBA Barbering Ring, where they battled it out to be the Best British Barber,

we supplied them with Kansas barber chairs both for the ring and for the seminar rooms. On the Monday, we had the pleasure of

r Robinson’s The fantastic Matt Robinson of Miste off his skills. Barbershop in Rugby joined us to show

Kansas Barber Chair

36 | BarberNV Magazine

Matt Robinson, from Mister Robinson’s Barbershop located in Rugby, demonstrating his barbering techniques, offering free

haircuts, and creating a general buzz on the stand. “Here’s what Matt had to say “Massive thank

you for letting me come down and mess around. #Keepithandsome” We had a great two days where we got to meet some greet new barbers and also got to say hello to some of our existing customers too. Check out some of our snaps from across the show!

BRONX The LEGION

The

Have you got your free 80 page barber catalogue yet? If not call

01455 660 120

Call 01455 660 120 or visit www.salonequipmentcentre.co.uk We buy and part exchange barber furniture. Nationwide delivery available. Visit our showroom at Leicester Road, Lutterworth, LE17 4HF

BEC A division of SEC

Old School N EW SCH OO L Savills

Savills

The barbershop is a hallowed place. A place for men to be men. A place to feel at ease and at home. A well-designed shop instantly lets your customers know the type of environment they are in and what they can expect from your services. Traditional barbershops have always been popular but there is growing demand for younger, more contemporary stylings. When youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re decorating the interior of your shop youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll obviously want it to reflect your tastes and your personality. That could mean a classic, vintage, old school style, or it could mean a clean, modern look. We spoke with two connoisseurs of the classic and two masters of modernity to see how they put together their unique looks. 38 | BarberNV Magazine

Smooth Hound

CLASSIC The traditional barbershop has never gone out of fashion. Many shops have been virtually unchanged for the best part of a century, and attempting to reimagine those older shops today is still a popular trend. Savills is perhaps the defining image when it comes to vintage. Owner Joth Davies has created a 1920s barbering anachronism in modern day Sheffield thanks to a patient process that’s seen him bring all the pieces together over a quarter of a century. “I had most of it before I started the shop,” Joth explains. “All 10 chairs we use in our shop are Takara Belmont and range in age from 20-50 years. These chairs haven’t changed in style or quality since the company started in 1921 and it fit perfectly with the Savills brand and ethos for delivering a quality product and service. “There’s only one chair in my shop that isn’t Takara Belmont. That’s my Theo Koch. They’re a really famous maker of barber chairs from Chicago in the early 1900s and the one in my shop is over 100-years old; it’s all art nouveau, chrome, and enamel.” It’s that specific look that Joth always had in mind and the 14-chair shop is littered with interesting ornaments and adornments that add to the retro feel. “My other shops were of a similar vein but because I had inherited them I couldn’t do exactly what I wanted. This was a completely free reign. I have a national cash register, antique hot lather machine, Oyster head massager and two hot towel steamers all from the early 1900s, some of which I still use in the shop today. “Everything in the shop has been reclaimed – the cabinets are from an old university science lab, the reception desk is a 1900s roll top desk, the units I got from an old haberdashery.” Joth’s hard work and effort has paid off, with the rustic wood décor and traditional barbershop atmosphere bringing in customers from far and wide.

“It attracts a lot of attention,” he admits. “Not just in Sheffield, we’ve had so many new customers and crowds of people outside saying how nice it looked. It’s been a labour of love. “I always think we could be doing better and the shop is going to look even better in the next 20 to 30 years as it gets older. I’m not going to change it as the fashion changes, but we’ll add more antique furniture and old pictures to the walls. I’m always trawling antique shops looking for the right pieces.” One of the latest shops to open with a traditional barbershop theme is Smooth Hound in Blackpool. Owner Derek Hull had previously looked to open an ultra-modern barber with the latest in treatments before deciding to do a complete turnaround and open this store for the man’s man. “The first one was very clean, very white, and very boxy. This is a total reversal to that,” Derek says. “Dark, early 20th century looking, sits well with the likes of Peaky Blinders and that vintage style. That was the image I wanted to create.” Like Joth, Derek spent his time going around antique shops to pick up the furniture he wanted for a unique and personalised experience. “It took about eight months to get everything together. The wallpaper, plastic mouldings made for the mirror frames, replacing the lighting. The design was all personal taste, I didn’t want to copy what anyone else had done. “Smooth Hound is about making men feel at home and the response from clients is that it’s a very enjoyable experience. With the old sofas, leather chairs and chesterfields, it’s really warm and comfy and a place to relax. We wanted to go back to those traditional values, for both young folk and older blokes.” The cluttered look gives Smooth Hound a very homely vibe, and the introduction of a whiskey club is sure to make it even more of a homeaway-from-home for many of Blackpool’s male population. u

BarberNV Magazine | 39

We take into account each shop’s personal character and try to create a look that’s appealing to everybody

Ruffians

MODERN At the opposite end of the spectrum is the much more modern and fashionable barbershop. It comes with the advantage of not requiring months searching antique shops for specific pieces, although you might find yourself in IKEA instead! As much a lifestyle brand as a barbershop, Ruffians has recently opened a new branch in London’s Marylebone and it’s become the modern man’s sanctuary in the heart of the capital. Fusing traditional barbershop values with the brand’s Scottish heritage and contemporary styling. “I’d like to say it all came together in one big design plan, but it didn’t,” admits Adam Brady, Ruffians PR Manager. “We’ve accumulated certain things since it’s been open, including a massive highland cow head which is a recent purchase to embrace our Scottish roots.” An unusual centrepiece for sure! But not everything in Ruffians is as eccentric with that. They’ve teamed up with Takara Belmont to offer their customers state-of-the-art Apollos, what Adam calls “the Rolls Royce of chairs”. Customised in Ruffians blue, right from the off they let the customer know they are in an upmarket store where they will be treated well.

The modernity of the chairs is offset by vintage pieces including a large dresser from a French farmhouse dating back to the early 1900s, while the walls are currently adorned with a collection of artworks from esteemed illustrator Robin Mackney. Adam says: “We try not to just be a corporate company. We take into account each shop’s personal character and try to create a look that’s appealing to everybody rather than a niche. Our demographic is 15-75 so we try not to be too stylised. Some barbers, like Savills, have it down to a tee and that’s fantastic, but for London this is what we wanted. It represents our ethos, which is less barbershoppy, more lifestyle. By doing that we’re integrating design, lifestyle, drinks, and events along with haircuts.” Focusing on a younger clientele, Stylus in Salisbury is a contemporary barbershop with a unique twist – their feature wall has helped them become the talk of the town and attracted new custom. Co-owner David Campbell spotted the opportunity to take advantage of the large windows covering the front of the shop as soon as they started. “We were aware the whole shop would be on display so we wanted to keep it as bright and inviting as possible,” he tells us. “That

Stylus

40 | BarberNV Magazine

way people could look in and see everything straight away. We wanted to stick with the traditional barbering colours of red, white, and black but in a modern way – modern sofas, all smooth and curved.” It was a calculated effort to offer something different from their competitors, with Stylus specialising in modern hairstyles and fades they wanted to attract the younger crowd and their regularly customised feature wall does just that. “It’s Superman at the moment but we change it every few months, depending on how we feel. We’ve used the company Wallsauce since we opened and have a great working relationship with them now. We email them directly if we need something and they suggest ideas we could use. “People like it because every time it changes it gives the shop a different feel, even though it’s only one small part of a wall. As soon as we put Superman in we got kids stopping in the street with their mums to look at it. Then a few days later they’d be in getting their haircut, probably because they nagged their mum about going back to see Superman!” Whatever style you decide to go for, being unique and standing out from the crowd is always a way to stay memorable and attract new clientele.

is an Apollo 2

R AW:IM AGE BA R BERSHOP, AYLESBURY

aving made a name for himself working alongside last issue’s Barber of the Month Baldy, Kieron Price has taken the next step in his career with the launch of RAW:IMAGE Barbershop. Necessity is the mother of invention, and without the capital to open up his own proper storefront barbershop on the main street, Kieron has teamed up with AnyTime Fitness Gym to offer a shop within the gym. It makes sense. Guys who go to the gym like to look good so having a barber on their doorstep is ideal for the post-workout, finishing touch to look their best. And with the male grooming industry still booming and the modern man not afraid to do what it takes to stay sharp, it seems like a winner, with Kieron saying as many as 40% of his customers are gym goers. Of course you don’t have to use the gym to take Kieron up on his services but with 20% off for members you might want to consider it! Naturally, Kieron’s reputation precedes him. An International

Andis Educator, the British Master Barber of the Year 2015, a regular on stage shows across the UK and beyond, and a massive social media following mean he is in high demand despite only being open a month. To ensure you can get a hold of Kieron when you need him, RAW:IMAGE employs Nearcut technology to arrange bookings online, freeing Kieron to concentrate on cutting hair. Of course you might want to pop down a bit earlier than your appointment time as many customers are enjoying the relaxed atmosphere where they’re invited to relax on the sofa, play a bit of Playstation, and crack open a beer, with RAW:IMAGE also providing the perfect social gathering to watch the European Championships. Having achieved his first ambition of opening his own shop by the time he is 30 – he’s beaten that by two years – we wouldn’t put it past Kieron to push things forward even more in the future. Will we see RAW:IMAGE Barbershops in more gyms in the future? Let’s wait and see.

5 T he E xc h a nge, E xc h a nge St reet, Aylesbu r y 42 | BarberNV Magazine

DA PPER, EALING

or the more refined and distinguished among us, Dapper is a premium male grooming and aesthetics salon that offers more than your typical barbershop. As the market for male grooming has improved and become more acceptable, men are less embarrassed to say they want to look good. For men under 35 there’s no shame whatsoever in going for a treatment or getting a pampering, but for those a bit older the stigma remains. Dapper offers a masculine, professional, and discrete option for the more discerning gentleman who perhaps still feels a touch selfconscious about self-improvement. Upstairs is a classy barbershop, with barbers in ties and waistcoats, offering 45 minute appointments with backwash and head massage – central London fine barbering brought to the suburbs of Ealing and ideally placed to suit the bankers and financiers living nearby. When you’re comfortable in your cubicle, a personal environment that exudes comfort and privacy, your barber will discuss with you not only your haircut but the other

treatments on offer at Dapper. These range from the simple – darkening your hair, getting rid of greys – to the more complex – skin treatments to get rid of acne, laser hair treatments and Botox. With a background in market research, owner Neil Jarvis knew there was significant interest from men in more aesthetic treatments and a will from men to make a change, in particular from those who you’d least suspect. Now Dapper aims to provide the working professional who is keen to look after himself with an upmarket and exclusive way to finally get rid of that back hair or soften those wrinkles. If you think you know someone who may not know where to start when it comes to male aesthetics, Dapper offer gift vouchers on their website to get them started. Get them through the door and Neil’s team of highly trained, ready to listen staff will point them in the right direction. They’re open seven days a week and you can get 20% off your first visit when you book online.

16 T he M all, E al i ng

JFH, NORTHERN IRELAND

reaking away from the traditional barbershop concept, two of Northern Ireland’s top barbers, Neal Toner and Micky Graham have gone for the triple threat with this update to their JFH salon. Previously, Just for Him, they are moving away from the strictly men, old school barbershop to make it all the more inclusive by introducing a coffee shop and clothing line alongside a rebranding. Hipper and cooler than before, JFH are making a play to move into the big leagues after seven years of getting their name out there. Quick to notice that coffee is one of the fastest growing industries in the world, and partial to a cup or two themselves to get them through the day, they’ve hired a full time barista and have a chill-out section with chesterfield sofas and breakfast bar to welcome even those who are just in for a caffeine fix. The JFH team aren’t a halfhearted bunch so they’ve also launched their own clothing line, Own Who You Are, aimed at the

neglected 15-30 market in their area of Northern Ireland, and are hoping to tap in to it with their completely personally designed lifestyle brand. A brand they are proud to wear, as you can see from Neal and Micky sporting it constantly and hope to take it across to the UK shortly, with an online shop coming in the near future. The barber shop is still the main focus for Neal and Micky and their team of six barbers. It’s an urban and industrially designed space, with a relaxed atmosphere and range of hip-hop and disco tunes. Neal and Micky are barbers in demand, working six days a week in the shop and spending their day off travelling across the UK to shows like Barber Connect where they are called upon to display their talents, including an appearance on the BarberNV stand for Neal. JFH is intended to be the start of a much bigger brand for the team, with plans to open more shops in the future, including in Belfast, but they’ll have their hands full of coffee and apparel for now.

18b R a ilw ay St reet, Newc a stle, Nor t he r n I rel a nd

ROCKSTA RS, BIRMINGHAM

here’s nothing more rock ’n’ roll than a coffee and a haircut. At least that’s the opinion of Michael Beasley, owner of Rockstars in Birmingham, and the local population seem to agree, as the combination shop is proving to be a big success with its unique selling point that it offers something completely different for the area. Unlike his other shop in Cradley, Michael’s Barber Shop, which sits alongside his Loco Tattoo Lounge, and is a more traditional shop that offers just haircuts, Rockstars is a full male grooming experience with hot towel shaving and eyebrow threading among the other treatments available. For those who want the full package you can get a Rockstar Special – everything you need to look good plus a coffee on the house. They even offer a full wedding morning service for the groom and his entourage to be looking and feeling at their very best on the big day. It’s still plenty manly, with the rock ‘n’ roll memorabilia adorning the walls a clear indicator that

this is a relaxed and chilled out shop, with no pretension. The original artworks and full surround system add to the enjoyment and atmosphere. A little bit out of the centre of Birmingham, Rockstars is the perfect suburban retreat and the introduction of the coffee shop lends itself well to that experience. By partnering up with Lavazza, one of the UK’s most loved coffee brands, Rockstars offers a fully functional and separate 16-seater coffee shop with an expertly trained barista offering the finest brews, all with a view through the glass into the barbers to give you some inspiration for your next cut. Rockstars is essentially two fully formed shops working in tandem as one. We weren’t kidding when we said it’s proving popular and it’s smart to book in advance via 0121 681 0517, although walk-ins are more than welcome and you can always grab a coffee while you wait. With his second shop proving to be as popular as his first, and Michael’s ambitions showing no signs of slowing down, there could be a Rockstars near you soon.

379 H agley Road West, Bi r m i ngh a m BarberNV Magazine | 43

BARBERSHOP

Ruger Ba rber

ACO R N S T R E E T, L E E S , TA M E S I DE , O L 4 3P D

Ruger is a young brand with bold ambitions. And now they have the residence to match their aspirations as they open their new barbershop in Lees.

t’s run by brothers-in-shears Alan and Reece Beak, both of whom are no strangers to BarberNV, with Alan being our first ever Barber of the Month. Illustrious. They haven’t rested on their laurels since then and Ruger has quickly grown to become not only a top barbershop but a top brand, and the Beak brothers are always in demand for their skills in education and on stage. Their new shop was built to reflect their growing ambitions. “Our first shop was amazing, very urban, the way we always wanted it,” Alan tells us. “Me, Reece, and some very generous and helpful friends built it up from nothing… Unfortunately we outgrew it in about two hours! “Sometimes we’d have people queuing outside but it was our baby and we loved it so we made it work. It was after 19 months we decided to make a move five minutes down the road to a bigger and more permanent premises.” That’s where they’ve landed now. In a location that’s more fitting their stature and with plenty of space for both their expanding team and their expanding customer base, in an unused space above Wilson & Rogers salon. Once again they called on their contacts to help them turn it into Ruger. Alan says: “The second floor wasn’t doing much so with the help of some loyal clients who are tradesmen we emptied the floor and began work to create phase two! Shop number one was the warm up shop, number two was the real deal. “We’ve gone more professional, more surgically clean. White, bright, with features you wouldn’t normally find in a barbershop: raw walnut, neon, concrete, and more open to create a different and more visual vibe.” Very visual, with vintage cinema seating located at one end so that

44 | BarberNV Magazine

waiting customers can see everything that’s happening. “Barbering is very theatrical,” Alan explains. “It’s nice to watch what’s going on and for everyone to be involved. It’s all about inclusion.” Alan knows all about that, having first become interested in barbering due to the atmosphere at his local shop when he was just nine-years old. An influence that has clearly influenced where the Ruger brand has gone since. He says: “The two guys that worked there were funny, charismatic, and brilliant at what they did. When I was 12 they opened their own shop, Steven Caine Hairdressing, in our local town. Reece randomly mentioned that I wanted a job and fortunately they were looking for a junior. I started working Fridays after school and all-day Saturday. Working for people with such high standards is where it began – the client comes first and the service was the best around. “After several years of devoting myself to their brand and ways of cutting I decided to broaden my knowledge of the trade, obtaining every qualification I could and studying every possible technique, style, and aspect of cutting hair. From then I decided to create an amalgamation of techniques derived from traditional Italian barbering, ladies hairdressing, and US inspired afro-Caribbean barbering. “Not fitting the style of their brand I became a little rogue and knew that to follow a path that suited me I had to do my own thing. At this point my younger brother joined our team in the shop. He was very much like me; young and very keen to learn everything. It was then we put our heads together as brothers to create our own brand. After months of planning and deliberation, Ruger was born.” It’s taken years of hard work from Alan and Reece but they’ve made a massive success of Ruger and are now beginning to expand it even further than their new shop.

“Like I said earlier, our last shop was very urban, very nitty-gritty,” says Alan. “We wanted to up our game and become more of a brand rather than just a barber shop. Ruger Barber will always stand but under the umbrella of Ruger. “It’s simple, almost clinical. Pure. Like the service we provide; clean to the highest standard and with huge positivity. We work alongside so many big figures in the industry, not to make sure we get lots of coverage but only to show the ethic of our brand. Reece and I are huge believers of ‘treat people how you would like to be treated’. There’s no attitude and no ego. Negativity has no place in our shop or in anything we do. “Barbering is not just a job but a lifestyle. It’s evident why so many people want to join and learn the trade, it’s never been as big as it is right now. Some people still struggle to see how important or how influential a barbershop is; it caters for all walks of life – old, young, gay, straight, male, female. It’s a place to relax, connect, network, and it’s a release. It’s therapy to some people so to have this ethos that anything goes in a room where looking and feeling good is the main priority bodes amazingly well within a community. “Our shop is nothing more than welcoming, where you can come and share your ups and down, have an amazing service, even better haircut, and coffee better than anywhere else and leave happy. Your community is everything. They’re your clients and happy clients are the key to success.” It might have started with just Alan and Reece, but since then Ruger has expanded and it’s now a truly team effort, including our Female Barber of the Month Danielle Corbett. “Our team is very unique. Danielle is undoubtedly one of the best female barbers in the UK. I started training her six years ago in college. Our relationship continued and it was always the plan to have her be a part of the team. Then we have young Ellie Rogers. At 18 she’s already producing work that’s so good; she’s going to be incredible. Our latest addition is Aiden Smith. We put him through a trade test and he smashed it, adjusting himself to the standard and work ethic of the shop so he’s great addition to the family. “Someone who helped us get to where we are today is Jay Murray. A 19-year old lad from Dublin who made the brave and spent seven months with us. One of the most talented guys in the industry right now, he’s starting up his own venture in which we wish him the best of luck. Jay will always be family.” While the Ruger family continues to expand, so does the brand, and the only question is how long will it be until they outgrow this shop?

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Danielle Corbett leaves an impression. Just ask Alan Beak. Four years after showing Danielle the barbering ropes at college, he handpicked her to improve his team at Ruger alongside his brother Reece.

he’s been at Ruger for almost two years now, making the move with them to new, bigger premises as their reputation continues to skyrocket and demand has seen them taking part in The Great British Barber Bash, Salon International, and Pro Hair Live – something Danielle has started to get more involved with. “It was really scary! Alan has to literally force me up!” Danielle half jokes when asked about doing the big shows. “Last year and this year I did stage work at Pro Hair Live in Manchester and London and I was really nervous, but then when I do it I’m fine; I’m buzzing when I’m there and when I come off I’m happy but I just need to get a bit more confident in the future. “Alan absolutely loves it. If it wasn’t for him I don’t think I could do it. He’s always making jokes which means it’s not too serious and him and Reece just bounce off each other, singing and dancing.” It’s that camaraderie and togetherness that has helped Danielle settle in so well at Ruger and allowed her to flourish, and she says the new shop is helping bring them even closer together. “It’s much bigger and a lot better. It’s more spacious and we’re all back-to-back so we can talk to each other. I’ve learned so much since I started working here with Alan and Reece and they’ve helped me out a lot definitely. I wasn’t that confident but I feel my standards are a lot higher now and there’s been a lot of improvement.

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“Everyone helps each other out. If I’m doing a cut and it’s someone Alan or Reece normally do they’re not bothered about me asking them for advice and if someone’s doing a cut that someone else usually does they’ll tell you what they normally do. “You’re not scared to ask. Some of us are better at different things so we’re all still learning from each other and as the months go by you just get even better and better. “I have customers where I finish their haircut and say ‘this is the definitely the best I’ve done’ and they’re like ‘You said that last time!’ But it is! I can see myself improving.” Danielle’s rise couldn’t have come at a better time with the popularity of barbering at record levels, something she sees continuing. “I do, yeah,” she explains. “Everyone’s really into it and I think that’s just the way it is for men now. The same way as women are always thinking about the way they look it’s now a proper thing for men. “Even for the kids now. All the kids’ hair is completely immaculate. It’s completely different to when I was at school and you got what you were given!” Yes, thanks very much Danielle for the reminder of that bowl cut from ages 4-10… Like a lot of female barbers, Danielle tells us she started off as a hairdresser aged 16 but didn’t really begin to enjoy cutting hair until a co-worker’s husband came in for a trim and Danielle instantly fell in love with barbering. “When I started I didn’t know any girls that

BARBER

Da n iel le Corbet t

Now I think a lot of women hairdressers are getting into barbering and they just need to try it and they’ll enjoy it

did it. When I told people I was a barber they thought I meant I was a hairdresser, but now everyone’s getting into it and it’s really popular. “Now I think a lot of women hairdressers are getting into barbering and they just need to try it and they’ll enjoy it. “Like young Ellie at Ruger. She started at our place just as a Saturday job and wasn’t that into it, but the longer she’s worked here she’s loved it and she’s an apprentice now. I think there’s a lot of girls out there like that. While the barbering trade still has a bit of a reputation as a boy’s club, even though it’s definitely improving, has Danielle had to face any old fashioned attitudes? “Not really. You get some men that just don’t trust a woman to cut their hair, and I think lads underestimate girls and think we can’t do it. But we definitely can.” Oh, we believe you Danielle! As you can see from Danielle’s work there’s no doubting her

ability and talent. The only question is where it is going to take her in the future? She says: “I’ve done my teaching so I can teach barbering and I’ve done a couple of days in the shop with people who’ve paid to go on the course. I’ve done some demonstrations and go around helping which I really like. “Hopefully I’d like to get more into what Alan and Reece are doing with the Barber Bash and stuff like that, some more teaching and educating. I also went down and did a photo shoot with Andis and I really enjoyed it. Alan and I did that together with a few barbers from down south – we did a full shoot with the clothes, and the make-up, and everything. It was really good so I’d definitely like to look into doing more of that in the future.” Whatever she does, BarberNV will be keeping an eye out for this rising star.

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BARBER

M ichael Da m ia no

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The awards have piled up for our Barber of the Month Michael Damiano: two-time UK Afro Barber of the Year, NHF Men’s Fashion Collection winner, two-time Barber of the Year, Hairdresser of the Year…

Keeping the success is all down to having a great team of course. Without a loyal, supportive, hardworking team, it’s hard to do it alone. Look after your staff and then they will look after the clients.

or this humble and grounded barber from Bedford, some things mean more than awards. “One of my proudest moments was recently when I took a step back and saw all eight of my barbers with a client in every chair and a lot of people waiting. That was a great feeling, seeing as it all started with just myself as one barber and realising how successful it has become. “Keeping the success is all down to having a great team of course. Without a loyal, supportive, hardworking team, it’s hard to do it alone. Look after your staff and then they will look after the clients.” The team he puts his faith in are his colleagues at Image Barber, Michael’s baby that he created to go alongside his dad’s salon. But despite the family link and the success that has followed, Michael wasn’t always set on becoming a barber. “Nope, I didn’t always know where I was destined to be,” he tells us. “Barbering found me I guess. When I left school I wanted to get involved

with art and drama. But after failing to get into a drama school, I needed to earn some money at 16-years old so I followed my father’s footsteps and took on hairdressing at college. “A few months in and I wasn’t enjoying it as the passion wasn’t there… Until I soon found it walking past a barbering class! I switched from hairdressing to barbering and since then I haven’t put my clippers down.” Walking past that classroom may have been Michael’s “Sliding Doors” moment as it also offered him a way to bring his love for art and combine it with barbering. “I loved drawing and sketching and seeing a teacher demonstrate a cartoon character pattern design in someone’s hair immediately got my attention and I was eager to do it myself. So I taught myself how to pattern and draw in hair before knowing how to cut it!” u

I switched from hairdressing to barbering and since then I haven’t put my clippers down.” BarberNV Magazine | 49

Images: Dan Davies Two-D Photography

It’s worked out in ways Michael couldn’t have imagined not least of which becoming a member of the exclusive Wahl Artistic Team, the clipper company’s educational group who travel around the world teaching and inspiring. Michael acknowledges his good fortune in that also. “It was about being in the right place at the right time. I went on one of the Wahl Academy courses to pick up more skills from Simon Shaw he was a massive inspiration to me.” “At the end of the two-day course Simon told three of us he wanted to expand the Wahl

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Artistic Team and asked if we were interested. He invited us on stage at Salon International 2010 and just before we went out he added ‘I only want one of you’… and I’m still here!” There are few, if any, companies more vaunted in the barbering industry than Wahl with their impressive history, and now Michael is an integral part of their brand, but what is his favourite aspect of the Wahl experience? “To say ‘I work for the biggest clipper company in the world’ is the best part of it!” He laughs. “Of course I enjoy everything I do for Wahl.

Travelling around the world is great. “My favourite show till this day is when I was with Wahl in India in front of a few hundred people. I don’t know what was in the water that day but the audience gave me so much enthusiasm – it gave me so much energy to perform to my greatest. “Being with Wahl, Simon Shaw has taught me to be a performer plus an educator, which makes it fun! So I get a great buzz performing for people who share the same trade on stage, but being in a barber shop brings me back down to earth and keeps me humble.” It’s hard to imagine that modesty is a problem for Michael, considering he has constantly adapted his skills to make sure he offers his clients what they need. “Being in the town of Bedford, there is a big black community and no barbers around to cater for their hair types. So I learnt the art of fading and shaping afro hair and felt a love for it too. “The word got around and more and more afro hair clientele felt trusted and respected with myself. We are now a very popular multicultural barbershop and specialise in all types.” Michael’s work with afro hair has been noticed by many and he has cemented his expert status by winning the Afro Barber of the Year for a second time this past year. It’s one of many awards for Michael and he’s a firm believer in the benefits of competing. “Competitions are a great way of showing your skills that you can’t do in an everyday barbershop as you’re following the needs of your clients. So most of the time we are hiding our true potential in our skills as we don’t get a chance to achieve them. We spend so much time and money educating ourselves, so let’s show off what we can do! Also everyone wants a haircut from a winner; so more trophies, more clients!” Speaking of winning, Michael is just back from France where he has been watching his beloved Italy in the European Championships. Is football a big part of his life and did he enjoy it? “Yes and yes!” He replies enthusiastically. “Due to my Italian heritage I’ve grown up supporting Italy, so I’m very passionate about it. I believe every barber needs another passion to take their mind out of work mode for just a little bit.” You don’t get much more passionate than Michael Damiano.

We spend so much time and money educating ourselves, so letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s show off what we can do! Also everyone wants a haircut from a winner; so more trophies, more clients!

I think itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s important to personalise the brand. Maybe it sounds egotistical but I plaster my face all over it: itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s my face the logo is built on .

Behind The brand 52 | BarberNV Magazine

Leif Erikson. Eric the Red. King Canute. The history books are littered with famous Vikings who made an impact worldwide, discovering new lands and exploring possibilities. Step forward Hjörtur Scheving.

ike intrepid explorer Leif Erikson, Hjörtur has taken a step into the unknown, slowly abandoning his previous life in software design to build his beard care brand Fit for Vikings from the ground up. It seems to be working, with FFV stocked and sold in 15 countries around the globe within 18 months of starting – meaning Hjörtur made it to America even quicker than Leif. “It’s been almost overwhelmingly positive,” says Hjörtur when we ask him about the incredible reception his products have received. “Straight from launch we got a lot of praise for the design, the packaging, for the voice we use with our products, the tone of communication, and as the products got out there more and more we got great feedback on the products themselves. “People love our beard balms and oils. The scent’s a bit different from what you find in many beard care products – it’s fresher, lighter smells. We hear it’s very Scandinavian.” That’s no accident. Everything about FFV embraces Hjörtur’s heritage. Iceland is hipper and trendier than ever with a booming tourist trade and famous sporting exploits, while Norse gods like Thor and Loki make billions starring in the Avengers, so naturally Hjörtur takes every opportunity to play up his Viking roots. “I think it’s important to personalise the brand. Maybe it sounds egotistical but I plaster my face all over it: it’s my face the logo is built on, I use images of myself in promotion, and I do state anywhere I can that I am Icelandic, and that I have Viking heritage. It’s mainly because Iceland has a positive image in the media, we get a lot of attention – especially now with kicking England’s ass in the Euros,” he laughs. You can’t blame Hjörtur for wanting to put his name and face on everything he can, after all FFV is virtually a one man operation that combines his skills from his previous professional career with his passion for beard care. “I saw there was a market for something Scandinavian, something well designed, and I saw that I could enter that market and test out my ideas without a great deal of investment.” So did it help Hjörtur that he was already skilled in many aspects of computing and design? “Massively,” he tells us. “My background in design was essential to what I’m doing now with FFV. I designed all the packaging and all the labels long before I did any of the scents, the ingredients, any of that. It all

started with design, so yes it helped me tremendously! “Web wise I’ve set up my own shop. With the help of some consultants for some of the programming part but most of it I’ve done myself so I saved a lot of money on that.” Being able to take care of much of the backend may have helped Hjörtur financially but it’s been a long road to get to the stage he’s at now – being almost able to focus solely on FFV, rather than juggling it with his consultancy firm. “I can see the potential I have here with FFV and I’m saying no more and more to other web projects,” he says. “My whole family is involved. My wife comes after her job to help me pack together orders and manufacture. I have a son, 17-years old, who comes in and helps out when needed so it’s a real family effort.” Another family that FFV has been well and truly welcomed into is the beard community. And Hjörtur has done more than his share to earn their trust and admiration, including a link-up with Tom Chapman’s Lions Barber Collective. “I thought that was a great cause that doesn’t get enough attention – suicide awareness and suicide in young men – so me and Tom got chatting and thought what can we do? Maybe we can create a scent specifically for the Lions where part of the proceeds goes directly to the Lions. This is a cause I really believe in and FFV is fully behind it.” Tom is a brand ambassador for FFV and one of its earliest adopters after being recommended it by one of Hjörtur’s clients who was getting it imported. Now, FFV has been sold to over 60 countries around the globe through their website as well as maintaining an online and brick and mortar presence with 50 different retailers in 15 countries, but Hjörtur isn’t stopping there. “We have retailers in Australia, USA, Hong Kong, Switzerland is a strong market for us. We’re in France, Iceland, Norway, we’re all over the place. We love this part of it. When I go to sleep I’m thinking there’s people in Japan using my product that I handmade; they’re loving and I’m loving it, so it’s great fun! “I’m always looking for new barbers to stock it, and I’m looking to be more accessible in high end clothing shops, things like that. We’re flexible so send us an email and get in touch.” With more products on the horizon, including a new beard wash and a range of shaving oils and soap, King Canute couldn’t hold back the waves and no one can hold back Fit for Vikings.

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ALL IN A NAME

MARKETING BY ASSOCIATION I have many reasons to thank my dad, but one of the best must be for his name. It’s a strong, masculine name; the name for someone who likes to live life to the full, just like my dad. You can’t dislike someone called Jack.

o when I closed my hair salon and focused all my energy on the male market, it was the obvious name to put above the door. This year we celebrate 21 years in business and I have never, not for one moment, regretted naming it after my dad. But beside those associations, Jack has proved a handy name when linking up with other brands, allowing us to use the reflected glory of others. It’s uncommon enough that people remember us, yet it’s not so rare that there is no one and nothing for us to link with. Over recent years we have increasingly used tie-ins with other Jacks, a technique known as association marketing. Each brand involved benefits from the value of the other. The most common and easiest type of association marketing in our industry is charity fundraising, but you can also link with local bars or sports clubs. Done carefully and strategically, tieins can have an incredibly positive impact. But it has to be strategic and you must protect your brand at all costs.

1. Get the right fit Everyone at Jacks, barbers through to admin, is mad about sport, plus it suits our male-oriented business, which is crucial, so we looked to that sector for a tie-in. We found a gem in the England and Stoke City goalie Jack Butland, who is now the face of our brand. As second to Joe Hart on the English squad, he might not be hugely famous yet, but with a name like Jack, he’s memorable. It also helps that he’s well-liked. Our sporting credentials helped bring us to the attention of London’s Queen’s Club, which selected Jacks

By Sue Whitehead, MD of Jacks of London

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of London as official barbering and grooming partner, to make sure all the players were kept looking their best on court and in front of the camera.

2. Aspiration not agitation Association doesn’t always have to be with a celebrity. Linking with a charity or another brand can bring rewards. We’ve partnered with other Jacks such as Lazy Jacks, a cool American brand, which supplied stock in our stores. More recently, we’ve collaborated with the new music system SoundJack. We look to continuity with our name, but we don’t link with any old Jack; only the cool, aspirational ones. SoundJack, besides being useful, has a reputation for tech-cool innovation, while Lazy Jacks has overtones of tradition and reliability. All good fits with our brand. 3. It’s nice to be nice Likeability is hugely important for association marketing. You don’t want your tie-in on the front pages for the wrong reasons and you want your target audience to like them. Everyone likes Jack Butland. He’s the guynext-door-done-good. It also helps that he likes us. He comes to our stores when he can to get his hair done and he loves our The True Gent range of products, (we keep him well supplied) so he is more willing to go that extra mile in this relationship. If the tie-in is with a charity, it will be more successful – in profile and well as fundraising – if it’s one local people care about and which matters to them.

SIX BUSINESS SECRETS THE BIG PLAYERS DON’T WANT YOU TO KNOW There is a myth out there that the traditional drop-in format means barbershops don’t need software, but it suits the big stores for the little guys to believe that. It stops them competing on a level playing field. So what do the big guys know that the solo barbershops could use to their advantage? 1. As it APPens: Are you still expecting your clients to walk in or phone when they’ve got the option of being in constant contact with your competitor via their smartphone? App technology has overtaken every other form of contact, so it’s no surprise that barbers who have embraced this technology are leaping over their competitors in the client stakes.

5. Be all-seeing: Ever wondered if you’ve got it right? Shortcuts Software has a specific function that allows you to anonymously benchmark how you are doing compared to similar barbershops in similar areas across the UK. You might think that is a bit of a vanity project – to see you are doing okay compared to the next guy. But what if you aren’t? Anonymous benchmarking will show you where you are getting it right and where you are getting it wrong.

2. Always open: Opting for online booking on a customisable app or Facebook can create tensions when meshed with the traditional drop-in approach, but technology helps smooth those tensions. A Shortcuts Wait Board display shows which barbers are free, letting drop-in clients know exactly how long they have to wait. And along with a Wait Board, you can introduce Online Check-In so clients can check in using your app and grab an appointment for later that day when it suits them.

push, or your software can email, news updates and special offers to clients to ensure they feel they are part of the community you are constructing around your brand.

3. Spot-on marketing: The cost of advertising can be high, and have poor returns, putting it beyond the reach of must barbershops, but there are ways to market to your clientele and beyond that don’t come with huge bills. Facebook is good for profile-building, and with an online booking function, can drive sales, while your customisable Shortcuts app can

4. Rock stars in the making: Tracking your team’s performance on your software by looking at rebookings/revisits, client retention, retail and upselling doesn’t just help you see how good, or not, they are at their job. It shows clearly where they need a little bit more help with training.

6. Keep ’em coming: Every time your client walks out of your salon, you risk losing him to a competitor, but with software you can build a culture where he rebooks before he leaves. It’s what the major players are doing. Your client knows he’ll need a hair cut in four weeks, so why not secure his slot in advance? It’s better for him and your business. And with SMS appointment reminders, he won’t forget and simply not turn up. By Trevor Jennings, general manager of Shortcuts Software www.shortcuts.co.uk

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BOOSTING YOUR MALE CLIENTELE AND GETTING THE BEST FROM A MALE CLIENT CONSULTATION

By Steven Gunnip, Director, Salon Evolution

For any hair salon, the consultation is perhaps the most crucial part of the entire client journey and one of the best marketing tools, however this process is not a common feature in most highstreet barbershops.

apitalise on this by taking the time to find out your client’s wants and needs; it’s this that will make all the difference to the overall service you provide and how the client feels about their visit. Every barber has a wealth of knowledge under their belt, so making sure that you can communicate this knowledge to the people that will be most receptive to it – your clients – is crucial. Many clients won’t know the precise terms for what they want, so it’s your job to ask the right questions to determine what exactly it is they would like and regularly check back in for their opinion to ensure that they are happy throughout. The consultation is also a prime opportunity to use your expertise to recommend products and additional services that will be of benefit; your clients will appreciate receiving specialist, tailored knowledge, allowing them to recreate their hairstyle easily at home. One of the main things to ensure is that the client goes away with much more knowledge about their hair than before their appointment. In a world with so much choice, it’s important to place a firm emphasis on the little details that will really make your business stand out from the rest. The market is there for male salons that provide a different experience and atmosphere. Think about each stage of the client journey and the ways in which you can create more of a memorable experience. Instead of the standard water or juice, why not offer clients a drink from a menu of craft beers or speciality coffees? You could even consider setting up a mini bar with gin cocktails on a Friday night, or a coffee bar over the weekend, to create a real buzz during your busiest time. How about including a hand or head massage when clients are at the backwash, introducing a selection of luxury

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Think about your unique selling point (USP), that is, what do you do differently to any other barbershop in town? What do you want to be known for? men’s magazines to read or setting up a widescreen TV showing sports matches for entertainment? This will not only delight the clients already being seen but, as much of your custom is likely to be walk-in, will also keep potential clients happy while they are waiting, preventing them from walking out the door to a competing barber down the street. Think about your unique selling point (USP), that is, what do you do differently to any other barbershop in town? What do you want to be known for? It’s these key things that you should be aiming to promote and deliver to each client that walks through the door, ensuring a cohesive service every time. Make sure that your client base knows about the things you offer that no other barbershop in the region does, as well as your specialist areas. Put these things at the forefront of your business and promotions, as they will really set you apart over the competition. Once you have an established service menu, and know what your specialist areas are, be sure to shout about them at every opportunity. Maximise

all avenues that are available to you; use key social media sites to engage with your clients, clearly detail the complete service list on your website so that potential clients can easily find what they are looking for, use local and industry listings to promote your business, and ensure that all of your offerings are detailed on price lists, leaflets and promotional material. If people don’t know about a particular service they can’t book an appointment for it. Be sure to mention any business achievements too – do you offer something different to other barbers in the vicinity, or have you won a local award for your services? If so, let your target market know. Get involved in activities within the local community. People talk, and word-of-mouth advertising is one of the strongest and most powerful ways of exposing and promoting your barbershop. Male clients rely on the recommendation of others above all else when choosing which establishment to visit. Social media has taken this and magnified it, meaning that word-of-mouth extends beyond a conversation between friends, but gives people the power to reach thousands with their views. With this in mind, incentivise satisfied clients to go online and write a review about their experience by offering them a discount on their next appointment if they share their views online or if you receive a booking based on their recommendation. Whether you’re in the planning stages of a new barber shop venture, or have been trading for years, the key to reaching your target market and increasing footfall to your establishment is in creating your own unique selling point and salon identity, and capitalising on this at every opportunity, so you reap the rewards from your offerings.

INCENTIVISING STAFF

Like any part of running a successful business you need to do a bit of homework to focus on what you want to achieve before setting up an incentive, as incentives can not only motivate staff but can demotivate too, if you get it wrong!

ome salon owners would argue that why should they set up a staff incentive? When staff should be talking about other services and retail products as part of their job and, to a degree, I see where they are coming from, however we come back to the whole philosophy of the carrot and the stick. Figures show that running staff incentives can be both rewarding and motivating for staff, and have a financial benefit for the business. In order to achieve this, there are some important rules to bear in mind when planning and running an incentive.

PLANNING: Q: What do I want to achieve? This can be increasing retail sales or add-on services to getting new customers into the shop. You can also use incentives for staff issues within the shop. Q: What type of incentive? Winner takes all or set each member of staff an achievable target and if they hit it they win a prize. E.g. a retail incentive: Winner takes all: The problem with this type of incentive is that you tend

to find that the same person wins every time, and that person is usually the busiest person in the shop, so not necessarily the best retailer, but may have had more opportunities to retail. If you are looking to run a “winner takes all” incentive I would always recommend running it on the basis of pence per customer (PPC). E.g. John takes £48.50 and does 65 Clients by dividing the amount by the number of customers you get a PPC £0.75 if the average retail product in the shop is £8.50 we know that 1 in 11 customers are purchasing a retail product. Jane takes £36.25 and does 32 customers the PPC is £1.14 and that 1 in 7.5 clients are purchasing a product. So in fact Jane is the better retailer. It also puts all the staff on the same playing field, full time, part time, staff on holiday, or sick as it is calculated on number of customers. Setting staff targets: This way all the staff can win if they hit their target. I would still use the PPC technique to monitor before setting up the incentive, but then set the target based on that. If you are running the incentive for more than a day, it is very important that you update the figures

on a daily or weekly basis, in order that they can see how they are performing. John £48.50 65 £0.75 1 in 11 Clients purchasing Jane £36.25 32 £1.14

1 in 7.5 Clients purchasing

Q: How long do I run the incentive for? This can be as little as a day or up to four weeks. My experience has shown that staff begin to lose interest if it continues for longer periods. Prizes: A regular mistake would be: when business owners come up with a prize that only appeals to some of the staff e.g. Red Letter track day, when half the staff cannot or are not old enough to drive or a hot air balloon flight when most of the staff may be scared of heights. Before setting up an incentive I would always recommend asking staff “if you were to win a gift to the value of say £10, £20, or even £50 (set whatever budget is feasible), what would you like it to be?” thus, whoever wins will get what they want. Budget: Remember this is a business; it’s no good putting up an all expenses holiday for 2 in Barbados as a prize for the person who retails the most in a week - it must be cost effective, otherwise why do it! Also, when budgeting, consider approaching your supplier for help, they may have off the shelf incentives and may even help towards contributing towards the prizes, if it’s going to help with their sales. The multi-incentive: Get some different coloured poker chips. Each chip can have a different value e.g. a customer comes in for a cut but is upgraded to a cut and shave, the staff member gets a blue chip worth 3 points, purchases a retail product gets a red chip worth 2 points and say books an appointment for their next visit gets a green chip worth 1 point, at the end of the incentive collect the chips. You can also use this for staff issues: black chip - 6 points for time keeping, white chip – 5 points for appearance. Make it work for you and it can be as flexible as you want it to be. A quickie: A great, quick, one day incentive is to put £10 in an envelope, get a friend to write a time on a piece of paper and place it in the envelope with the £10 - tell the staff. Each time a member of staff does the service or retails a product, write down the time. At the end of the day open the envelope and whoever is the closest to the time, wins the £10.

For more information on courses contact Kevin Hamm SD Training on tel:07533004956 or email:kevinhamm00@gmail.com

Lastly: Launch the incentive to the staff at a meeting, and lay out the rules and how it works - try and make it fun by using a current theme.

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Geordies are up for a laugh. It’s why everyone loves them and why shows like Geordie Shore are so popular. But one Newcastle barber has turned his cheeky personality into a winning marketing strategy.

GEORDIE MARKETING...

atrick Forster, owner of Patrick Forster Barber & Shop, has hit the headlines on numerous occasions over the past couple of years with his stunts drawing attention (not always good, but we’ll get to that) to his shop. With a series of gimmicks, a good social media presence, and by injecting his own humour into his brand, Patrick has received advertising that money couldn’t buy. He didn’t even wait for his shop to open before getting started. “This is my first shop after I spent time working in Dubai. It’s on a quiet, little back street in the city centre. We get passing trade but it’s not on the main street so that’s why I thought the marketing had to be something brilliant. “So for six months while the shop was being built I put different quotes on the window that had nothing to do with barbering like “If you build it, they will come” just to get people speak about what was going on and guessing about what the shop was going to be. “With it being Newcastle people just assume it’s a new bar but it caught people’s eye. I put completely stupid posters on the door like ‘Lost badgers’ or ‘dry paint’, anything that made me smile.” Instantly showcasing his shop as something a bit different from usual and with a clear sense of humour, it got people talking. But it didn’t make the mainstream media sit up in the way his next idea did. Patrick placed three signs on drains around Newcastle city centre saying “Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles Now Hiring – Inquire Within”. A harmless prank? Not in the view of the local council who issued Patrick with £240 in fixed penalty notices, £80 for each bit of paper. “I’m glad I only did three,” laughs Patrick. “They

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were so serious about it and didn’t have any fun with it.” Fortunately, plenty of other people did find it funny, with it making national news after Patrick tagged ITV News in a Twitter post about the fine he’d received. He says: “They couldn’t believe the story of me getting fined for this little stunt. It was massive, I had people calling me from America and everywhere I went I was asked about it.” The story moved faster than your typical turtle and Patrick was even inundated with business men who’d enjoyed the joke coming in to offer money for his fine. Ever the opportunist, Patrick took the opportunity to keep the ball rolling and put the money raised towards a foundation in London that takes care of abandoned turtles. He put on a ‘Turtle Thursday’ event at his shop with the help of some of his footballer clients and a couple of guys dressed in full Ninja Turtle costumes, “It’s the best bit of advertising we’ve ever done,” says Patrick. “It went on for about a year, I was sick of turtles by the end of it!” While it attracted the wrong sort of attention from

the council, incredibly it also attracted the attention of famed ad agency Saatchi & Saatchi who wanted to know who was in charge of their marketing. High praise! On a number of occasions, Patrick’s links with the footballing world have gained him media exposure, and although he doesn’t enjoy asking famous friends for favours, there’s no doubt it can pay off. His latest football related stunt involved offering Newcastle manager Rafa Benitez free haircuts for life if he stayed on following their relegation from the Premiership. He did indeed decide to stay but is yet to take up Patrick on his offer, however an appearance on ITV and across the papers has already made it worthwhile for Patrick. So how does Patrick keep finding the mark so consistently and so impressively? “I always say to people, just start it in your shop. If your shop shows personality then people like that. If you want to be very serious then you’ll get that kind of clientele but if you show a funny side then it shows your shop is welcoming and a fun place to be.”

Men…. do you lift?

Words Dr Nestor

It’s not a facelift, it’s the road to natural, manly facial lines, and contours.

ncreasingly more men are opting for medical aesthetic procedures to achieve, and hold onto, natural manly cheeks and chiselled jaw lines. Why? The most resounding answers were to look more youthful in the work place for career progression and to attract a partner. Both very strong reasons. What else is there? The most important contribution to nonsurgical facial contouring in the last 6 years… Silhouette Soft Thread Lift (aka ‘puppet lift’, aka ‘one stitch lift’). It might sound feminine, but its lift is strong and the results bold. This minimally invasive product and procedure of lifting facial tissue is gaining increasing popularity and for good reason. It compliments Botox and dermal fillers. Silhouette Soft threads do what the two heavyweights of non-surgical facial aesthetics can’t. These three treatments together, perfectly carried out in experienced hands, give natural, tailored results and achieve the ultimate, non-surgical, minimal downtime facial lift, where we can contour a strong, masculine jaw line, and restore volume to the mid face. So what is a ‘thread lift’? In the search for less invasive procedures to treat the signs of facial ageing, thread lifting/ tightening has become increasingly popular. The idea is to place threads of one sort or another under the skin and either physically ‘pull back’ to achieve a lift, or let the thread cause a response in the body which would lead to skin tightening. The aim has always been the same, to find a material strong enough to lift sagging facial tissue, non-surgically, with minimal to no irritation to the body. Thread lift materials and techniques are far more sophisticated today and far more successful. I think it’s worth stressing that thread lift procedures do not, or at least should not, aim to replace a face lift. The theory of thread lift however is rooted in the initial pioneering face lifts… not so much face lift, but skin lift. Lifting

skin to where it once sat proud, higher in the face, restores a natural youthfulness. The results from thread lifts do not last as long as surgical facelifts. However, the procedure doesn’t carry the same downtime or complications that surgery does. Not everyone needs a facelift, and not everyone can benefit from a thread lift. Broadly speaking, there are two kinds of threads which can be placed under the skin to lift sagging tissue. The kind that are placed under the skin and give an instant mechanical lift. Let’s call these ‘mechanical lift threads’. Pro: Instant result, minimally invasive. Then there are the smaller, multiple threads which are placed under facial skin and neck which breakdown with time and in doing so, stimulate the production of tightening factors such as collagen and elastin (PDO threads). These are biological lift threads. Pros: Minimally invasive and helps to tighten skin. Both have their place. Both have their limitations. Let’s take the ‘cons’ from each kind of thread. ‘Mechanical lift’ threads lose their hold. Game over. Procedure needs repeated. ’Biological lift’ threads don’t lift as much and take time to yield results. So what if there was a thread that gave us an instant mechanical lift, and then went on to stimulate production of collagen (our skin’s tightening factor)? That would be great wouldn’t it? Insert all-knowing “but there is” smile. Read on. Two words… Silhouette Soft. Silhouette Soft Thread Lift is a unique non-surgical procedure where threads with tiny cones are placed under the skin. Threads are made of poly-lactic acid (PLLA for short) and the cones of PLLA and glycolic polymer. This is relevant because these materials have been used in surgery for years, and are well tolerated by the body. Silhouette Soft threads were developed approximately six years ago. It was a great product from the start, but long lasting results were questionable due to poor techniques.

Quite honestly, we didn’t understand how to use them. It took time to appreciate how best to get the most from them. Over the last six years they have been used extensively and in several different ways. Today, from my experience, we can achieve a lift lasting 12-18 months. For a 60 minute, non-surgical procedure, take it from me, that is incredible. I have used Silhouette Soft threads a lot, both for facial contouring in men and women, restoring youthful features, and medically to treat facial asymmetry in Bell’s palsy patients. The results which can be achieved with these threads, the safety and efficacy they offer cosmetic doctors is a game changer in nonsurgically rejuvenating the face.

In the search for less invasive procedures to treat the signs of facial ageing, thread lifting/ tightening has become increasingly popular.

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With a vision of well-groomed hair styles and a ready-to-go RV, I made my way from Britain across to Los Angeles and Las Vegas, sharing some of my expertise along the way.

Bus man’s I holiday

set out on this American adventure from June 18th until June 25th this summer. Starting in the City of Angels, Los Angeles, I began my mission of tracking down barbers around the town. The work I had planned for this road trip would help to provide an insight into American barbers and the barber life culture happening on this side of the Atlantic. By having a better understanding of what equipment and techniques were being used by barbers in the US, I would then be able to share this with my trusty viewers through my YouTube channel and of course the BarberNV readers. The sponsors who chose to support me on this razor-edge journey across America were really the ones who made this all possible. In return for their support I offered them some pretty cool online exposure. With their logos displayed on my RV, they got instant advertising across American soil. We had some filming done, both on the ground and in the air via a drone, which captured the sponsors’ logos in a great light. Amongst my great sponsors was Reuzel, a pomade company soulfully contributing to the barbering business. Another partner I was lucky to receive sponsorship from was Champs Barbers, a London barbershop which is set to launch the first major barber battle in the UK. Also I had the support of JRL Clippers, who have invested in futuristic styling technology to create the world’s only patented stay cool and smart clipper. This craftsmanship is both functional and

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revolutionary so I was really happy to have these guys on board, and BarberNV of course! Throughout my road trip, I was gaining valuable insight into American barbers. By being on the ground and conducting interviews in their barbershops, I was able to get a real personal understanding of how American barbers were going about running their businesses and shaping their outlooks on barbering. All of this information and insight is then shared through my social media business outlet, providing fellow barbers with conversations about hair clippers and techniques used in the barbering industry. As I racked up many miles on the road from Los Angeles to Las Vegas, I made calculated stops and planned my route so that I could pop in and visit a range of barbers, including notably high profile barbers for well-known celebrities and personalities. Not only this, but I made sure to have a chat to employees of barber shops as well in order to get a real feel for the work being done on the ground. All of this research, conversation, and attention to detail provided me with a comprehensive understanding of the barbering industry across this part of the United States. I made my first stop a surprise visit to Brian Burt at Vinny’s Barber Shop in Los Angeles. This was our second encounter, so the interview was somewhat of a reunion for Brian and me. When we first chatted at the Barberlife Expo at Brighton Tattoo Convention, Brian was really interested in the power of

social media to promote himself and work as many different shops as possible. Times have changed a bit now and Brian is really happy working in just one settled location. Vinny’s, a cool, retro barbershop, is making a name for itself and gaining a positive reputation from the friendliness of owner Omar who genuinely wants his customers and employees to have the best experience possible. The next interview was to take place in Artesia, Orange County. Here I got in touch with Diego, the owner of The House of Fade Barbershop. I was really excited at the chance to chat to someone with such a distinguishable style. Diego is a Hispanic barber who has a certain unique flair to his barbering work. In the past, Diego competed in barbering competitions across the state which really helped amp up his career. Diego’s barbershop speaks volumes of his success as a barber battle champion, with accolades such as cups and belts and shields adorning the space. After winning so many barber battles, Diego

Throughout my road trip, I was gaining valuable insight into American barbers. By being on the ground and conducting interviews in their barbershops, I was able to get a real personal understanding of how American barbers were going about running their businesses and shaping their outlooks on barbering.

now proudly judges other aspiring barbers in these contests. In his cool, urban barbershop, Diego and I chatted about remaining stylish in all elements of his work and personal life, which he clearly wasn’t struggling with as I noted his signature fedora hat and snazzy Tiffany glasses, while staying true to his 100k following on Instagram via his app ‘HOFB’. Continuing on the road with more confidence in driving the 32-foot RV on the wrong side of the road for a Brit, I connected with the guys at the American Barbershop in Santa Ana, a place that had been highly recommended by other barbers around Orange County. Here the atmosphere rapidly changed to organised professional chaos in the huge shop where 13 vintage barber chairs were lined up ready to style the hair of men who walked through the doors. Employees Mick and Roland were happy to share their values and stories on success of the ethos of the American Barbershop and tell me how the team and customers work best while listening to loud house music and enjoying a steady flow of beverages. Amidst more interviews along the way, a chat with Richie the Clown Barber was an absolute must for me. With his permanent clown face tattooed on his own that exposed himself a bit more just the other week during his stint on America’s Got Talent, Richie is a legend in his own right in the barbering industry. With a face that is literally impossible to forget, Richie works at the popular Bolts Barbershop in Downtown Los Angeles and made a name for himself to match his recognisable face through cutting and styling hair in a unique and distinguishable way. Along the way I made a point of chatting with a famed woman in the barbering industry. Jackie Starr, the current personal barber of the former boxing champion Floyd Mayweather, who earns $1,000 a cut several times a week! She runs a shop called Iced Out Barber Shop in Las Vegas. Here Jackie carries on her legendary talent for making great cuts and earning her solid reputation as an incredible woman in the barbering game. Many people working with Jackie say that they have learned exceptional skills and techniques which will help them excel in the barbering industry. While driving across America from one landmark to another, I was achieving more than I could have imagined for the barbering industry. Sharing my knowledge with a range of barbers across the way and gaining insight from them provided me with an invaluable wealth of understanding to continue my business. It was a really exhilarating journey to gain so much more knowledge about barbering techniques and the culture surrounding this business over in the States, and share it all with other barbers around the world. Lucky for you living in this glorious digital age, you can be part of the revolutionary advancement of barbering techniques shared by me and other barbers around the world. Stay in touch with me by following me on Instagram @larrythebarberman, by subscribing to www. barbers.tv, or sending me a friendly email at info@larrythebarberman. I’m always looking for a new adventure so feel free to contact me for information on BarberNV tours as well. My main goal is to share information and knowledge around the barbering community using the awesome media of social media to connect barbers in all corners of the world, and you’re invited to be part of it all.

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Hot to trot New seasons bring new opportunity and none offers more options than summer.

Davines Forming Pomade Provides the perfect blend of medium-to-high hold and shine when applied to damp hair, making it ideal for creating old-school 50s styles. £15.60 – www.davines.com

Matrix Mess Maker A texturising sea salt spray that adds volume and body to the hair. Leaving the hair manageable with a ‘fresh-from-the-beach’ effect, it’s perfect for creating natural waves and promotes a glossy finish. £8.75 – www.lookfantastic.com

Fudge Blow Dry Putty The perfect blow-dry tool, this putty adds volume, body, and bounce while leaving hair feeling smooth and soft. Can be used for styling or finishing. £8.21- www.fudgehair.co.uk

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ith the barbering industry in the middle of a serious boom and men taking more care of their hair than ever, they’re also beginning to experiment with more flamboyant looks that wouldn’t have been on the menu a decade ago. That can be something as simple as a twist on an old classic like a pompadour or side parting, perhaps with a touch of colour or skin fade. Celebrities will always influence what we wear and what styles we go for, and the likes of Kit Harrington from Game of Thrones have helped the resurgence of long hair in recent years. But what are the experts saying will be on trend this summer? Should you be growing it out or cutting it short, keeping it business casual or going more relaxed? “I think we have moved away from the super tight, tailored looks,” says Ryan Forsythe, Head of Education and Salon Director at Trevor Sorbie. “Now we’re starting to see some longer, shaggier 70s influenced hair styles – think Jim Morrison and less beards. The 90s grunge influence is also making a return with greasy, textured centre partings with a Kurt Cobainesque feel.” It’s something that Marcus King of Hooker & Young, and BHA Men’s Hairdresser of the year has also spotted, but with a splash of colour. “Colour wise, balayage on men is becoming bigger. You can do more or less the same thing on a man as you can on a woman in terms of balayage, providing their hair is that little bit longer on top. Lighter on the ends brings a

really interesting effect to a style. “We’re still seeing that long on top, close at the back and side’s style but it’s becoming looser and beachier. Less of the swept back, gelled look, and more of a relaxed, loosely defined style.” This can be seen in Fudge’s latest collections, where effortless elegance is the name of the game. Carefree, bouncy beach curls with a touch of blonde define the Sibling collection, while the Helmet Head collection in association with Belstaff celebrates the carefree attitude of bikers, with windswept hair flowing manfully. But there can be difficulty translating a style you want into a style you wear. It might look good on the catwalk or on Leonardo DiCaprio but will it suit you? That’s where clients need to put their trust in their barber, and where barbers need to have the confidence and ability to know what will suit the client and also to deliver the right cut. “Men have increased confidence when it comes to telling their stylist what look they are going for,” says Pont Smith, Director of Blue Tit Academy. “We encourage men, like women, to bring in photos to get a clear idea of the look they are hoping to achieve; it is often difficult for clients to put into words exactly what they want. “When it comes to the content of the image, men don’t generally want to recreate a celebrity’s style in a copycat fashion, and so don’t tend to bring in celebrity images. They often prefer to recreate a style that they’ve seen

on a guy in the street or on an Instagram image. This doesn’t mean they don’t come to us with a clear idea of that they want, they just tend to lean towards styles that they’ve see work in real life, and that don’t appear to require too much effort or styling.” Repeating the styling you received from your barber is a problem for many men. It looks fantastic when the trained professional does it in the salon, but when you have a bash yourself? Disaster. Fortunately, Jonathan Andrew, celebrity stylist at Jamie Stevens salon, has some simple tips to completely change styling at home. “When using a wax or clay, really make sure you rub the product into the hands thoroughly,” he suggests. “Then, apply to hair starting from the back and work forward rather than the opposite way. Imagine you’re putting the product on the scalp rather than the hair and it will naturally come off your hands, evenly distributed and much easier to style. “Texture is this season’s big trend and expect to see more guys pushing the boundaries here. Try scrunch drying the hair to nail the beachy texture vibe. “I think more men need to get on board with hairspray as only a few seem to adopt this staple into their hair routine. More gents are trying to take more care with their hair and hairspray is an essential for keeping everything in place.” He adds: “If you don’t have the time to blow dry your hair, after washing comb through the hair into the rough position you would blow dry your hair into and cover in hairspray. Let the hair dry naturally. Once dry it will have a wet look finish with a slight crunch feel. Lightly brush out the hair and it will have set in place. Style as normal for a stress-free finish with no heated styling.”

BarberNV Magazine | 63

ROCHES BARBERSHOP & SHAVING SALOON Hair: Kim Powell Photography: Noleen Kavanagh Model: Sean Murphy

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FUDGE X LSB Hair: London School of Barbering Art Team Creative Director: Jeffrey Cameron Make-up: Jo Coletta

SHOWCA SE

Por tfol io

FUDGE BELSTAFF Session stylist: Tina Outen for Fudge Professional Photography: Mark Rabadan

SLICKS

ALLAN STONE

Hair: Greg Forrest Model: Ross Marshall Photography: Nicola Roberts Collection: Slicks New School

Photographer: John Donaghue Make-up: Vicky Johnson Models: Olly and Aktar

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TONY CAIRNEY Photography: Steven Mckenna

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TOM BAXTER Photography: Paul Guilford Make up: Tom Baxter

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LESLEY MACBAIN Photography: Cassie MacBain Model: Ewan McLaughlin

SAM WALL Photography: Ryan Wright Make-up: Bridget Marsh Collection: Urban Sports

CHRIS ABBOTT Photography: Jo Bell Models: Tim Lamb, Richard Lee, Ashley Hampson, Nick Grayson Clothing: Rural Threads Bakewell

GRAEME MILNE Photography: Graeme Milne Make-up: Katy Fraser Shop: Rebel Rebel

BarberNV Magazine | 69

OUR COVER IMAGE FOR THIS ISSUE WAS CHOSEN FROM TWO OF THE WINNERS OF THE UK BARBER BATTLE AT BARBER CONNECT

PAUL MAC claimed the victory in the Freestyle section with his incredibly vibrant and eye-catching pattern

SAM WALL, whose Urban Sports collection also features, took the crown for his Creative Pompadour

SHOWCA SE

Por tfolio

ONCE WE HAD BOTH OF THESE STUNNING STYLES IN ONE PHOTO THERE WAS NO DOUBTING WHAT OUR COVER IMAGE WOULD BE. 70 | BarberNV Magazine

PAUL MAC SPECIAL AND SAM WALL Photography: Robert Braid Models: Hugo Hora Santos, Jord Liddell

Who are you? “If someone called me a barber a couple of years ago I would be massively offended.” It’s fair to say Tom Baxter wasn’t the first person to jump on the barbering bandwagon.

aving trained as hairdresser on predominantly male clients, Tom enjoyed the creativity of his job and didn’t see the same enthusiasm and inventiveness in barbering. “Around where I was, the local barbers was just a five minute, short back and sides, no style, £5 haircut and leave. I always classed myself as someone who would take my time on it and make a style rather than just cutting it short, but then over the last two years the whole industry has changed. It’s exploded and male hairdressers who do styles are happy to be called barbers.” As a proud British Master Barber and winner of multiple barbering awards, Tom has certainly come to embrace the barber life since he began his training 15 years ago, something he believes is due to more men embracing different hairstyles. “I’ve always been trained on men,” says Tom. “But I started looking into women’s hair because the men’s was boring me, there wasn’t much to it. A two at the back and sides and short on the top – I was sick of the same mundane thing. I was trying to be as creative as

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I could but you can only be as creative as your audience and over the last two years men have accepted it a lot more. “It’s been helped by footballers, reality TV, and young, up-and-coming males who are taking care of themselves more and so everyone is seeing on TV and social media. Guys have been projected as more feminine over the past year so we are starting to see more proper haircuts.” That’s not to say there’s no place for the original working man’s barber in the industry. Tom believes there’s a split in the barbering community, with not everyone as quick as him to embrace hairdressing. “When I go to the Great British Barber Bash there’s two types of people there – one with creativity and colour, and guys who look like they want to hurt you,” he jokes. “They look like motorbikers, they do slick back, spit and sawdust cuts. That would be bore me a little bit, I like to add colour and curls and different textures and softer looks. “On stage in Glasgow you had Hard Grind, they are quite traditional. Then you have Rebel Rebel who brought along a big pile of

hairdressing with them. It was barbering but one of the girls put a hair piece on someone which you wouldn’t see in a high street barbers – it was very salon based, very Hooker and Young. You wouldn’t have seen that a few years ago but they did it and it looked fantastic. The audience then get to see all aspects.” Tom believes the current barber boom has seen not only a rise in men embracing alternative looks but also a rise in the quality of barbers. “100% it’s raised its game, it’s raised the standards. I didn’t necessarily fall out of love with it but seeing the rise of barbering and seeing all these guys posting their work, it makes you determined to be better and make your blends better – it’s only a good thing.

The standard of barbering has risen to a point where it can’t get any better. Some of the blends you see I think they can’t be real! If I look at a picture and think it must be fake, that’s the highest compliment I can pay. “In fact the cameras are so good it’s a bit annoying as you can take a picture and it looks shit and you need to do it again,” he laughs. So what should someone interested in joining the men’s hair industry do – barbering or hairdressing? “It depends on the style of stuff you want to do. If you’re into the traditional barber image and the barber life like the Schorem guys, the real traditionalists, then that’s a certain style of barbering. You’ll not get a perm from them or any colour, you’ll just get a rock and roll haircut so if you want to be trained in that it’s different. “I’ve always said that if you want to be more rounded as a stylist and as an individual then you should look to combine the two. If you’re a barber you should spend some time with a hairdresser and vice versa. Not all barber training will cover things like feather cutting and cutting different textures. “I would speak to salons and ask to shadow them and go watch. Tell them you’re new to the trade and spend a couple of hours on a Saturday or whenever you’re free, just to stand and watch and take in as much as you can. I was lucky where I worked I got to see hairdressing being done and I’m part of the artistic team for Matrix so I got to see all different types. There’s also academies and YouTube education.” A good place to start for YouTube education may well be Tom’s own videos. Through his work as brand ambassador for Kamasori, Tom has innovated the way educational videos are made online by attaching a GoPro to his head and giving a true ‘barber’s-eye’ view of his work. “I used to see educational videos where you had a camera filming over the shoulder or in the shop but you don’t get to see what’s actually happening,” he tells us. “So I made a video where the camera is on my forehead so they can see exactly what I see. You can see how high the guard is, how close is the zero.” With over 45,000 views on some of his videos already, Tom’s brand of barbering and hairdressing is making an impression and he’s certainly an advert for being as good an allrounder as you can.

I started looking into women’s hair because the men’s was boring me, there wasn’t much to it. A two at the back and sides and short on the top – I was sick of the same mundane thing

Spot the difference the experts’ opinion Marcus King North East Hairdresser of the Year, from Hooker & Young “I think the main difference is the environment. A salon environment differs so much to a barbershop environment. I feel that clients who want a more bespoke, individual and unique style would visit a men’s hairdresser in a salon. I feel like you get that little bit more of experimentation within a salon, whereas clients who want that classic, skin fade style would visit a barbershop where they do what they do, and they do it well.”

Ryan Forsythe Head of Education at Trevor Sorbie, Covent Garden “I am a hairdresser that cuts men’s hair and roughly 30% of my clientele are male. The prices are the same for men and women and both get the same appointment time of one hour. We do all of our work with scissors and combs, unless a client is opting for zero length. It’s time consuming but it gives a soft finish and grows out very naturally and our clients tend to prefer this. They seem to enjoy the longer appointment! “I think that the main difference would be that barbering is a much quicker and affordable experience. It involves a lot more clipper work which allows you to get much closer to the scalp, as well as creating intricate detailing. It is also much faster, enabling a faster client turnaround.”

Jamie Stevens 3x British Men’s Hairdresser of the Year “Working in a unisex salon, we offer a wide range of services to suit both men and women. I think the difference between hairdressers and barbers is an age old stigma; some people thinks it’s purely about cutting women’s hair or not but I get the impression that people think barbers just cut hair quickly with clippers and hairdressers only use scissors and take much more time. Cutting hair is an art and anyone who does it should be able to use every tool possible to get the best results, regardless of the time you have with your clients – meaning there’s no difference between hairdressing and barbering.”

BarberNV Magazine | 73

Robert Rix Words f rom the Wise I had hoped to bring you news in this edition of the opening of our new training academy. Fate however has played its hand and we have had to postpone the launch of our training courses for a few weeks. Robert Rix, SHR SRSB MCH MCB

74 | BarberNV Magazine

he reason being was that I had a serious chest infection and could not function for several days. Now a simple chest infection may seem pretty tame to some, but boy oh boy this one knocked me for six. I’ve been very fortunate in that I have been self employed for many years and throughout the whole of my adult working life, despite having had some injuries, I have never been ill – not even for a day, so sickness was a complete stranger to me. When illness came, it not only took me by surprise, but also surprised my work colleagues. What I want to achieve with the article is to provoke some though in your heads about dealing with illness, and the impact it can have on your business. I have no intention of supplying a hit list that will provide you with all the answers; I just want you to think what you might do in your business in similar circumstances. So, the one positive thing that we have gleaned from this period of illness is that no one is infallible, not even me. For years I thought that I was made of cast iron. From the top to the bottom any member of the team can be laid low at either short notice or even no notice. So what do we do to cover our respective behinds should illness strike? What can we do to limit the effects of being a team member down? Whether you’re captain of the ship or just a crew member your absence from the shop-floor will have an impact on the rest of the team and the otherwise smooth running of the business. Let’s put things into some sort of perspective. In our case we have a team of nine including Dan Rix (my son and partner in the business) and myself, who we will call working mangers. So the other seven staff members all have an important part to play in the grand scheme of things. OK so maybe we are a bit bigger operation than most barbershops, and I must confess that I do not know what the national average for individual shop workforce might be, but I would hazard a guess at somewhere around three staff including a working owner. We must also remember that there are a great many one man businesses and the effects of a debilitating illness could spell financial disaster for these individuals. If you are really interested in the hard facts and figures behind our industry then you can get all the info you need from The National Hairdressers Federation (NHF); the data is free if you are a NHF member just give them a call on 01234 831965 and ask for the 2015 industry statistics. There is some quite staggering data available and when you start to delve into it you really get to see the broader picture of what the hairdressing industry is all about and how it is structured.

So back to our average three man shop and one of the team goes down ill. What do we do to limit the adverse impact? Unless you are fortune enough to have a bank of willing and competent barber friends who could be called upon at short notice to fill in for a few days while so and so gets back on his or her feet, then you are going to have to do something to keep the money coming in and ensuring the bills get paid on time. By their very nature a working owner tends to work harder, faster, and longer than a wage earner; and I don’t mean to sound biased for there are some wonderful employees who do go that extra mile and when the pressure is on they do show their true colours. But when it comes right down to it, if it’s your baby you do tend to give it all you’ve got, come what may. So if a working owner gets ill, is it worse than if a staff member gets ill? This all depends on the structure of the business and how it normally operates. Are the clients willing to have their hair cut by one of the other team members? A good way to promote this is to ensure that every member of the team works to minimum house standard of proficiency. Have a house standard and try to ensure that

as being well skilled and top flight operators. Would it be worth considering some sort of insurance policy? I fully realise that you can’t get cover for coughs and colds but you can get cover for critical illness, so it may be something well worth considering. There is also a thing call Key Man Insurance that pays out a capital sum if the insured is taken out or seriously incapacitated. In both cases the younger you are the cheaper the premium. We keep a database of all regular client’s contact information. My illness lasted just short of two weeks, but whilst I was out of action all my pre-booked clients were contacted and informed of my absence. They were then offered service by another team member at more or less the same time as their original booking. We also work on walk-ins as well as appointments and that is the hard section to deal with because from day to day you never know what the demand is going to be like. One thing I must do is pay public respect to all members of our team who rallied around and kept the show on the road. Well done everyone and many thanks for your efforts. As I mentioned earlier until now I had never been ill, but I have had some injuries. I can recall one time when following a skiing accident I turned up for work with a plaster cast on each leg and worked for a few weeks rolling round the barber chair on a wheeled stools – the things you do when you’re self-employed! So hopefully now that I am back on my feet, and once more ready to go, next time I’ll be able to bring you some news on the progress of the new academy and the courses being offered. Until next time, keep snipping and clipping.

We keep a database of all regular client’s contact information. My illness lasted just short of two weeks, but whilst I was out of action all my pre-booked clients were contacted and informed of my absence everyone works in a similar fashion. There is nothing worse than having one prima donna like character, who gets the majority of the clients, and the other workers just get the odd customer now and again. If he or she goes down then there is no chance that these lesser mortals could possibly fill the gap. So make sure that the clients realise that in your shop everyone works to a high standard. This can be done by cross referencing each other

BarberNV Magazine | 75

EDUCATOR

Chris Foster

I think the beauty of what I do is I can take someone thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s completed an NVQ and is just about competent and I can develop them .

Chris 76 | BarberNV Magazine

He’s gone from charging £8 a cut in Hackney to charging £80 a cut in Harrods. And he wants to show you how you can do the same.

hris Foster has spent two decades rising to the top of the barbering trade, where he is now Creative Director at The Refinery in Mayfair, as well as the Harrods Barbershop in Central London, but our Educator of the Month plans to shorten that journey for the next generation of top barbers through his elite finishing school, The Foss Academy. “There was a gap in the market,” Chris tells us. “Lots of barbers reach a certain level and can’t get any further. So the idea was to provide a way for people in the industry who are really good at cutting hair to take it to the next level. “It’s about capitalising on your skills and maximising the career you have. You have a finite time being a barber, whether it’s 20, 30, or 40 years so you need to maximise your income. That’s what I feel and that’s what I try and do.” Unlike other barbering training courses, and as part of his focus on the top end of the trade, Chris actively gets involved with mentoring clients, using his experience and knowledge to help them take the next step down previously unexplored paths. “Mentoring is a way of extending their influence in the barbering industry via the

Build your Profile into Profit Monday, 26th September London (10mins from Oxford St) Early Bird Discount £75 when mentioning BarberNV when booking. Tickets normally £150. To book call: 0203 770 8643

Foster music industry, film industry, and commercial advertising work. I’ve worked with lots of high profile artists in the music world, Hollywood actors, done massive advertising campaigns, that knowledge helps me to say ‘I’ve done it, and you can do it too.’” With Chris the creative driving force behind campaigns for the likes of Braun and Oscar winning Aardman Animations, the team behind Wallace and Gromit, plus many others, you know you’re being personally tutored by the very best. Although The Foss Academy is looked upon as an elite finishing school, any qualified barber will be able to attend a seminar or course with Chris and come away improved. Chris explains: “I think the beauty of what I do is I can take someone that’s completed an NVQ and is just about competent and I can develop them. “On September 26th in London I have a

seminar that will help coach people to take it to the next level. Some people just don’t know how to talk in front of live groups, how to present their career in the right way, and how to create a brand for people to invest in. If you’re frustrated and can’t get ahead then you’ll learn a great deal. “The big barbering events are great for barbers showing their skills, but there comes a point where you can do a skin fade and don’t need someone showing you another one. The question then is how do you get to Schorem’s level? How do you get to the elite stage where you are booked internationally?” The answer for Chris is to showcase your talents in a way that encourages the work to come to you, while not undervaluing yourself. “A lot of young barbers out there don’t charge as much as they should,” Chris says. “They’re so tied up in the chair, doing cut after cut, they’re stuck in a cycle they can’t get out of

and they don’t have the time or money to invest in themselves, their education, and creating collections so they can be seen. “The very first thing they can do is start looking at their style of barbering and seeing how they can get it out to the masses. Pull marketing rather than push marketing. Bring people to you and your work. A simple thing you can do is tag the right people in your posts, like editors from magazines, so they get to see the work, so they get to know you as a person. “Blog so people can see your thought process as a barber and see where your thinking is coming from. It instantly elevates you on the road to becoming an expert in other people’s eyes. “People need to say ‘Where do I have a problem, where can I find someone who can fix this?’ If my car breaks down I go to a mechanic, they need to view you as the person they need to call. With my gig with Braun they needed someone to do hair pattern work. They needed a solution and I had my work out there so people can see it and be inspired.” Chris has certainly positioned himself as an expert in the field of education, with his unique perspective transcending barbering and bringing something fresh to an industry in danger of stagnating. If you want to learn from Chris you can find more information on his training courses at www.fossacademy.co.uk and you can be inspired by his collections at www. hairbychrisfoster.com.

BarberNV Magazine | 77

ACA DEM Y

London School of Barbering

London School of Barbering. The heart of the capital. The heart of the country. The heart of barbering education.

ince its inception, London School of Barbering has quickly grown to be one of the most highly acclaimed academies for barbers, with a wide variety of courses suitable for those wishing to join the trade or for more experienced cutters looking to take their skills to the next level. Co-founders Michael Kontos and Justis McEvilly are the driving force behind the school’s success, realising their dream to provide a first class standard of education for barbers, with two academies in the centre of London. “It certainly took a lot of courage to sign those leases!” Justis tell us. “However, it’s a move we’ve never regretted: London is one of the most vibrant cities in the world, it’s a fashion capital and is so creatively forward thinking. What better place to cut hair? “We also feel that if you can learn to deliver the hairstyles in demand in London, you’ll be more than prepared for whatever comes next. The diversity of London is reflected in the diversity of skills taught on the course, such as the ethnic diversity which provides the opportunity to learn on afro, Asian, soft, coarse, and curly textures.” The wide range of models available to students is one of the academy’s biggest selling points; students on the nine week course for beginners can expect to train on over 150 models, which, Michael tells us, makes LSB the envy of many other schools. “Without a doubt! I’ve spoken to so many educational providers, so many salon groups, and the first question they ask is ‘How do you get so many models?’ I’m not giving my secret away but I treat my models like paying clients. They get fantastic haircuts, supervised by

78 | BarberNV Magazine

There’s a really high recruitment rate with a large proportion of our graduates going on to work in £50 barbershops in Central London

fantastic teachers and they’re going away happy. Michael and Justis take on completely different roles within the school, their yin and yang partnership working to cover the whole spectrum required to run such a successful school. As the Artistic Director, and a highly respected barber, Michael is the face of LSB while Director of Development Justis is more behind the scenes, working to make sure they have a tightly run ship that allows Michael and LSB to flourish. They both worked together to develop and build the curriculum that readies their students for success with Michael praising the “structure” put in place by Justis. “It’s not just you rock up and cut hair,” he says. “There’s a method, a formula, that’s almost fool proof. On the first week you’ll learn how to cut long hair, second week it’s layering, third week, clippers, slowly upping confidence with more models. That’s one of the reasons we’re special.” Justis agrees, saying “We have really high standards and are constantly striving to create courses that deliver an advanced yet learnable technical approach. Because we run the academy as a real barbershop, students are provided with a limitless supply of models and hands-on experience and are forced to learn at a standard the general public demand! This is fantastic for helping develop students’ confidence too, and helps gets them job-ready.” Job-ready is no idle promise, with the majority of students finding barbershop/salon jobs within a fortnight of graduating from LSB and the school running its own jobs board on its website with over 500 jobs currently being advertised. “There’s a really high recruitment rate with a large proportion of our graduates going on to

work in £50 barbershops in Central London,” says Justis. “Because the academy teaches students to such a high standard, barbershops now recognise us as a great place to source new talent.” More than that, LSB have even hired from within their own talent pool to educate at the school, Michael says that “all of our students come out technically gifted, but to be a teacher you need to have an aura, an attitude, to be patient, to be calm – there’s a lot that goes into it. With the hundreds of students that come through we’ve handpicked three to be teachers.” As its reputation grows, so has its partnerships, with top brands like Fudge and The Bluebeards Revenge providing products and materials to keep LSB students at the top of their game. Justis is quick to sing the praise of their collaborators, saying: “We knew immediately that the Fudge ethos was a perfect match for LSB as like us the brand is daring and creative, but also established and organised. We love that Fudge aren’t afraid of trying new things and have so much energy to develop new products and produce new collections. And the products are amazing. Products are just as important as the tools barbers use and Fudge offers a great range that students can have great fun with.” With barbering in the midst of renaissance that has seen its popularity surge, LSB is at the forefront and Michael believes the future will continue to be bright. “I’m so proud of my team and what Justis and I have achieved in the past three years. It’s testimony to our hard work and we hope it will continue. We don’t just want to make up the numbers, we want to be innovators that push the industry in a new direction.”

BarberNV Magazine | 79

“Whether a first time client or decade long patron, the gent gracing your chair requires a full consultation. Fashion moves quickly, as does personal taste; you can’t assume the ‘same again’ will suffice.” A sentiment expressed by, well, myself back in issue two.

t still bemuses me that the primary reason men change barbershop is a resistance to change - a fact I am assured is true. In fact the topic of consultations has, at least in part, been touched upon in previous musings. In my last article the notion of adhering to a client’s needs and how it stifles creativity was pondered. In the very article from which the previous quote was taken I suggested that tailoring the style, and by extension a good initial discussion, was key to a ‘great cut’. The ability to draw the most from ‘client consultations’ - a term that is far too stern sounding in my opinion - should certainly not be overlooked. The process begins before a seat is taken. First impressions are hugely important and particularly tricky to reverse or undo. To get the most from a consultation the client must immediately feel relaxed and able to talk to you. After all, a consultation or discussion very much

80 | BarberNV Magazine

requires two parties. It sounds simple but always introduce yourself by name and hope to high heaven they reciprocate. Perhaps it’s just me, but I always find it awkward asking for somebody’s name beyond that initial greeting. It’s like being at a party, you’ve been talking to somebody for 10 minutes and have to say “I’m really sorry, what’s your name again?” Of course, if you operate an appointment system you’ll have that safety net. Accompany said introduction with a good handshake. Nothing fancy, nothing ambitious; just a good old-fashioned handshake. These may seem like very simple things, and indeed they are, but it’s important to ensure the client feels welcome. It’s certainly true what they say: you can never judge a book by its cover. It is however your first opportunity to get a sense of your client’s style. Particularly nowadays, deciding a person’s profession - and therefore what styles may

be suitable - is very difficult, but if the gent is sporting a foot tall mohawk it’s fair to assume you can be a little more creative. Unfortunately we all have to adhere to a tight schedule. With appointments only lasting between thirty to forty five minutes - sometimes even less - it’s important to make every second count. Within 30 seconds you can already make the client feel comfortable and begin to visualise ideas. The client has taken a seat. Now is the time for the ‘consult’ part of the consultation. Sometimes this can be a straightforward, particularly if they are a regular client. With new clients the process can be a little more elaborate. Do they have a particular style in mind? What are they trying to achieve in the longer term - grow it out, keep it short? How often do they cut their hair? I think clients really value the fact you’re taking an interest and trying to tailor the cut to them specifically. Not only do we need to evaluate what suits them stylistically but also practically. Really study the face and head shape. Long faces need widening, wide faces need lengthening. The bone structure of the skull determines scalp exposure and growth patterns determine

how the hair can be styled. On many occasions the style they suggest will be perfectly suitable, on other occasions there’s a sort of compromise. Perhaps the client suggested a low fade but has a wide head, creating what would be a quite heavy shape. Or maybe a gent was considering a comb over but has fine hair - a shorter style with the hair facing forward might be a more suitable option. We often see things that look great that don’t quite look how we expected when tried on. ‘Trying on’ is not really applicable with regards to haircuts, or is a much longer, less practical, and perhaps even embarrassing process. You are very much the expert in this dynamic and responsible for suggesting styles that will suit your client. You have to be enthusiastic when suggesting new ideas and not appear dismissive of theirs. ‘Have you ever considered…’ or ‘what would really suit you is…’ Explain and educate the client as to why something will suit them. Ultimately, if the cut looks great and is perfectly tailored the client will be happy, even if it’s slightly different from what they first envisaged. And then it’s just down to the small matter of perfectly executing the cut…

With appointments only lasting between thirty to forty five minutes - sometimes even less - it’s important to make every second count. Within 30 seconds you can already make the client feel comfortable and begin to visualise ideas.

Begin or further your career in barbering at the academy of international educator Sid Sottung. ONLINE

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sidsottungacademy.com

0115 837 2401

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265 Mansfield Road | Nottingham |NG1 3FT BarberNV Magazine | 81

Step-by-step guide

STEP 1 Make sure your equipment is ready and sterilized.

STEP 5 Using your Andis clippers, begin a medium fade. Start with a number 4 guard and then number 3.

STEP 9 Refine the overall shape with a clipper over comb technique.

Training Academy of the Year winners at the Barber Awards, Sid Sottung Academy is back to show you how to create another must-have modern style, in collaboration with Lock Stock & Barrel. 82 | BarberNV Magazine

STEP 11 Use your Andis Foil Shave to remove any stray hairs.

STEP 2

STEP 3

STEP 4

Cut a square layered shape on top.

Continue using vertical sections on the back and sides, always maintaining that strong shape.

Apply LSB Preptonic throughout the hair and blow-dry into shape.

STEP 6

STEP 7

STEP 8

Continue to move down the guards with a number 2.

Use your number 1 guard.

Next use your clipper with an open blade (1/2).

STEP 10 Use your T-Outliner to neaten the shape.

STEP 12

FINAL LOOK

Apply LSB Classic Wax throughout the hair and proceed to style with the Denman Streaker comb.

The finished look is a contemporary remix of a traditional look. Clean, neat and instantly wearable.

BarberNV Magazine | 83

JULY/AUGUST 2016 TRAINING DATES Date

Duration Course

Company/School

Location

Cost

Contact

3rd July

1 Day

1 Day Fade Workshop

SB Barber Academy

Sunderland

£100.00

0191 567 3644

3rd July

1 Day

Affro Dizziac

The Foss Academy

Mayfair

£275.00

0203 770 8643

4th July

2 Days

Wet Shaving Course

London School of Barbering

London

£550.00

0207 404 0998

4th July

1 Day

Alan & Reece Beak

Harry Green Gentlemans Barbers Essex

£150.00

020 3701 1774

4th July

3 Days

Advanced Barbering

Savills Barber Academy

Sheffield

£475.00

0114 276 1011

4th July

1 Day

Classic Men’s Grooming

WAHL Academy

Cheltenham

£149.17

01242 516 350

5th July

5 Days

Intensive Barbering

Sid Sottung Academy

Nottingham

£1,199.00

0115 837 2401

6th July

2 Days

Wet Shaving Course

London School of Barbering

London

£550.00

0207 404 0998

10th July

2 Days

Business Improvement

Mobile Barbering Academy

In Salon

£500.00

07999 642244

11th July

1 Day

Evening with Michael Damiano WAHL Academy

Convetry

£29.17

02476 682489

11th July

9 Weeks

Diploma in Barbering

London School of Barbering

London

£3,780.00

0207 404 0998

11th July

3 Weeks

Masters in Barbering L3

London School of Barbering

London

£1,800.00

0207 404 0998

11th July

2 Days

Creative Adv Ladies & Gents WAHL Academy

Kent

£149.17

01227 744323

11th July

1 Day

One Day Shaving Course

Joseph Lanzante Training

Accrington

£195.00

01254 427 575

11th July

1 Week

Cutting & Fading Course

London School of Barbering

London

£900.00

0207 404 0998

12th July

2 Days

Intermediate Barbering

Sid Sottung Academy

Nottingham

£650.00

0115 837 2401

15th July

2 Days

Wet Shaving Course

Sid Sottung Academy

Nottingham

£399.00

0115 837 2401

17th July

1 Day

Clipper Course

Men U Academy

Southampton

£295.00

01256 766566

17th July

1 Day

Alan & Reece Beak

Skinny Isaacs Barbers

Belfast

£150.00

020 3701 1774

17th July

2 Days

Business Improvement Course Mobile Barbering Academy

In Salon

£500.00

07999 642244

18th July

1 Day

One Day Shaving Course

Savills Barber Academy

Sheffield

£200.00

0114 276 1011

18th July

1 Day

Specialist: The Shave

WAHL Academy

Northampton

£149.17

01604 721472

18th July

2 Weeks

Combo Shaving

London School of Barbering

London

£1,500.00

0207 404 0998

18th July

1 Day

Specialist: The Shave

WAHL Academy

Leeds

£149.17

0113 245 7439

18th July

9 Weeks

9 Week Intense Barber Course Gents of London

Cardiff

£3,899.00

0207 8370171

19th July

5 Days

Advanced Barbering

Sid Sottung Academy

Nottingham

£1,499.00

0115 837 2401

19th July

2 Days

Clipper Confidence Course

Savills Barber Academy

Sheffield

£350.00

0114 276 1011

20th July

1 Day

Classic Men’s Grooming

WAHL Academy

Birmingham

£149.17

0121 331 2000

24th July

1 Day

Clipper Confidence

The Foss Academy

Mayfair

£275.00

0203 770 8643

25th July

1 Day

Classic Men’s Grooming

WAHL Academy

Bristol

£149.17

0117 9517344

25th July

5 Days

Intensive Barbering

Sid Sottung Academy

Nottingham

£1,199.00

0115 837 2401

25th July

1 Day

Creative Advanced Gents

WAHL Academy

Swansea

£149.17

01792 798798

25th July

1 Day

Specialist: The Shave

WAHL Academy

Nottingham

£149.17

0117 9517344

26th July

1 Day

Creative Advanced Gents

WAHL Academy

Cheltenham

£149.17

01242 516 350

84 | BarberNV Magazine

Learn the true art of maLe grooming Professional barbering and hairdressing courses. By Joseph Lanzante - the leading barbering expert. › Traditional barbering

› Hot towel cut throat shaving

one day clipper cutting course

one day course

› Barbering boot camp four day course

PLUS NVQ level 2 & 3 in ladies and mens hairdressing. To Book - Tel: 01254 427575 · 07984 797726 or visit www.josephlanzante.co.uk

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BarberNV Magazine | 85

JULY/AUGUST 2016 TRAINING DATES Date

Duration Course

Company/School

Location

Cost

Contact

30th July

2 Days

Wet Shaving Course

Sid Sottung Academy

Nottingham

£399.00

0115 837 2401

31st July

1 Day

Shave Facial Pracical

Men U Academy

Southampton

£345.00

01256 766566

31st July

1 Day

Darren Jones - Barber Bash

Slicks Barbers

Glasgow

£150.00

020 3701 1774

1st Aug

9 Weeks

Diploma in Barbering

London School of Barbering

London

£3,780.00

0207 404 0998

1st Aug

1 Day

Up Close with Simon Shaw

WAHL Academy

Swansea

£29.17

01792 798798

1st Aug

3 Weeks

Masters in Barbering - Adv

London School of Barbering

London

£1,800.00

0207 404 0998

1st Aug

1 Day

Darren Jones - Barber Bash

Blondeze Hairdressing

Aboyne

£150.00

020 3701 1774

1st Aug

1 Week

Combo Shaving

London School of Barbering

London

£900.00

0207 404 0998

2nd Aug

5 Days

Intensive Barbering

Sid Sottung Academy

Nottingham

£1,199.00

0115 837 2401

7th Aug

1 Day

Mick Graham & Neal Toner

SB Barber Academy

Sunderland

£150.00

020 3701 1774

7th Aug

1 Day

Contemporary Barbering

Outlaw Barber Collective

Paisley

£100.00

0141 887 2161

8th Aug

2 Days

Wet Shaving Course

London School of Barbering

London

£550.00

0207 404 0998

8th Aug

1 Day

Specialist: The Fade

WAHL Academy

Leeds

£149.17

0113 245 7439

9th Aug

2 Days

Intermediate Barbering

Sid Sottung Academy

Nottingham

£650.00

0115 837 3401

9th Aug

9 Weeks

9 Week Intense Barber Course Gents of London

London

£3,899.00

0207 8370171

10th Aug

2 Days

Fudge Styling Course

London School of Barbering

London

£550.00

0207 404 0998

12th Aug

2 Days

Wet Shaving Course

Sid Sottung Academy

Nottingham

£399.00

0115 837 2401

14th Aug

2 Days

NVQ Shaving Unit

SB Barber Academy

Sunderland

£500.00

0191 567 3644

14th Aug

2 Days

Business Improvement Course Mobile Barbering Academy

In Salon

£500.00

07999 642244

14th Aug

1 Day

The Art of Traditional Shaving The Foss Academy

Mayfair

£275.00

0203 770 8643

15th Aug

1 Day

Creative Adv Ladies & Gents WAHL Academy

Liverpool

£149.17

0151 263 8811

16th Aug

5 Days

Advanced Barbering

Nottingham

£1,499.00

0115 837 2401

20th Aug

2 Days

Business Improvement Course Mobile Barbering Academy

In Salon

£500.00

07999 642244

21st Aug

1 Day

Alan & Reece Beak

Barbers of BT45

Magherafelt

£150.00

020 3701 1774

22nd Aug

9 Weeks

Diploma in Barbering

London School of Barbering

London

£3,780.00

0207 404 0998

22nd Aug

1 Day

Specialist: The Shave

WAHL Academy

Cheltenham

£149.17

01242 516 350

22nd Aug

5 Days

Intensive Barbering

Sid Sottung Academy

Nottingham

£1,199.00

0115 837 2401

23rd Aug

1 Day

Creative Advanced Gents

WAHL Academy

Birmingham

£149.17

0121 331 2000

27th Aug

2 Days

Wet Shaving Course

Sid Sottung Academy

Nottingham

£399.00

0115 837 2401

28th Aug

1 Day

Darren Jones - Barber Bash

Copperfields

Perth

£150.00

020 3701 1774

30th Aug

2 Days

Wet Shaving Course

London School of Barbering

London

£550.00

0207 404 0998

30th Aug

2 Days

Clipper Masterclass

Sid Sottung Academy

Nottingham

£175.00

0115 837 2401

Sid Sottung Academy

*Dates and prices are correct at time of going to print and are subject to change.

86 | BarberNV Magazine

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