Inspiring UK & Ireland Barbering success
Issue 13.
£5 €6.50 $6.50
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News | Products | EVENTS | Features | EDUCATION BarberNV Magazine | 1
Welcome Simon Ritchie
Editor
We’ve decided to do something different in this issue and instead of visiting a different country, we’re going to visit a different time… The young guns are dominating the barbering scene at the moment – deservedly so in many cases – but we’re devoting part of this issue to a few barbers with over a hundred years’ experience between them, and a barbershop that has been going for over 110 years. Sometimes it’s good to listen to our elders! Cover star Garry Jackson is a recognisable face thanks to his modelling career, but as the Lifetime Achievement award he just picked up at BarberCut shows, he’s a highly regarded barber as well. Rob Rix has seen it all in his years and it’s fascinating to hear him talk about how the industry has changed over the last 56 years, and, more importantly, how it has stayed the same. Don’t let him hear you talk about a ‘barbering boom’, for him it’s more than that, the industry has become something entirely different. Phil Jarman is a powerhouse in the industry. As a fellow of the MHFed and a member of the City & Guilds Barbering Industry Board, he’s at the forefront of moves to improve education – something I’m sure we
can all agree needs looked at. Taylor Taylor has survived two World Wars and is thriving more than ever. One of their staff just won the American Crew AllStar Challenge and they are a shining light in how a family business should be run. Away from our Golden Generation section, there’s still mountains of more current content. The International Barber Awards Qualifiers, an Outlaw Barber Collective and American Crew education day, a Nike and Porters secret barbershop for the athletics world championship, and the Scottish Hair and Beauty Awards are just some of the events we’ve visited over the past couple of months. So whether you’re here to learn from the masters or to see what your peers are up to, we like to think there’s plenty to keep you occupied over the next 100 or so pages. Remember if you want to get your own work in the next issue then shoot me an email at contact@salonnv.co.uk. Whether it’s a Showcase collection or just a story you think we need to cover, we love to hear from you.
Simon Ritchie Founder Joanne Reid | Editor Simon Ritchie | Head Graphic Designer Ross Stewart | Assistant Graphic Designer Cara Scott | Sales & Marketing Support Connie Neil Design & Marketing PrintNV | Columnists Alan Findlay, Rob & Dan Rix, Larry the Barber Man, Sid Sottung | Thanks Alison Jameson Consultants, Brian Hays Photography, Essence PR, Seven Publicity, Vivid PR, LWPR, B TheAgency, Fellowship of British Hairdressing, National Hairdressers Federation, Barber Council, British Barbers’ Association, British Master Barbers International Barber Awards, 1o1 Barbers, BarberSociety Live, Jacks Of London, American Crew, The B.O.M.B Squad, Gary Jackson, Lumberjack Inc, Tom Chapman, Liam Kelly, Phil Jarman, Sam Wall, Matakki Scissors, Taylor Taylor, Red Hot Products, Barber Equipment Centre, Fellowship for British Hairdressing, Joseph Lanzante, Nestor Demosthenous, Robert Rix, Larry the Barber Man. Cover Image: Model: Garry Jackson, Photographer: Kenny Gibson Pictures Shutterstock | Published by Gallus Print & Digital Media, 132 West Regent Street, Glasgow G2 2RQ | Email contact@salonnv.co.uk | Tel +44 (0) 141 212 5525 Copyright All work in this publication is copyright BarberNV Magazine and Gallas Print & Digital Media Ltd. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the permission of the publisher. © Information and product prices are correct at time of printing. Some products may not be available in all stores.
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NEWS
04
50 THE GOLDEN GENERATION
SHABA
06
54 GARRY JACKSON
STAG BARBER CO.
10
60 ROB RIX
INTERNATIONAL BARBER
12
AWARDS
65 TAYLOR TAYLOR 68 PHIL JARMAN
GRANITE CITY BEARDFEST
18
THE BARBERELLA
26
78 JAMIE WILSON
NIKE X PORTERS
28
editor’s choice
32
80 REUZEL X WEZ JONES
GROOMING
34
STEP-BY-STEP
FURNITURE & EQUIPMENT 36
74 NEW SHOPS
OF BADGUY BRAND
92 INSTAGRAM SHOWCASE
APPAREL 40
94 DR NESTOR
combs & brushes
42
96 LIAM KENNY
behind the brand
46
98 SAM WALL
takara belmont
100 HAIR TRENDS
Contents Issue 13
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Garry Jackson takes home top honour With hundreds of Irish barbers in attendance at BarberCut in Dublin on October 1st, County Down barber Garry Jackson received one of the biggest honours of his career when he was surprised with the Lifetime Achievement award. On stage with Joth Davies from Savills, Garry was expecting to hand the prize to one of the many experienced barbers in attendance, only to discover that the person to be honoured was him! It’s a well-earned honour for a man with over 30 years of experience in the industry and you can read our exclusive feature with Garry later in the issue.
Sid Sottung joins Andis nation The latest big industry name to join clipper giants Andis is Nottingham based barber and educator Sid Sottung. Sid is joining the Andis education team after a successful career that has seen him teach and inspire barbers all over the globe, from small scale events to on stage at huge trade shows.
“Sid inspires through his natural ability to reach out and engage. His creative work is regarded among the best in the industry and he will quickly become a tremendous asset to our already strong team, as we train hair professionals to master clipper techniques,” says Andis Education Manager Jessica Zeinstra.
Third shop for Joseph Lanzante ??? Internationally renowned barber Joseph Lanzante is opening his third barber shop in Victoria Station in Manchester this October. With more than 30 years in the business, Joseph Lanzante’s credentials are second to none. Trained at the prestigious Alan International Hair Salon in London’s Knightsbridge, he became the international trainer for an American salon franchise, one of the largest in the world, boasting 2,800 establishments.
The Mens Room, Manchester is the next big step for Joseph as he expands his barbering craftsmanship into the North West. The new barbershop has four chairs and will introduce six positions for inspiring barbers and hairdressers who are willing to go through his rigorous training to meet his high standards. Having already made a name as one of the UK’s top trainers, Joseph will be ensuring his employees attain the highest level of skill.
240 YEARS OF Kent Brushes West Indies call on Chris
It was a time for celebration earlier this month, as the world’s oldest brush manufacturer Kent Brushes, commemorated two achievements: their 240th anniversary and the official presentation of the Queen’s Award for Enterprise, by her Majesty’s LordLieutenant of the County of Hertfordshire, Mr Robert Voss CBE DL.
Creative Director at The Refinery in Mayfair, Chris Foster, was called upon by the three of the West Indies cricket team to give them a fresh new look for their tour of England.
The special luncheon, which took place in the grounds of Chairman of Kent Brushes, Alan Cosby’s family home in Hemel Hempstead, saw 70 employees
The owners of Prestie Hair Extensions Connoisseurs called on Chris as they salon is based in the hotel in which the Windies team were staying, and the Foss Academy barber was happy to give his full range of services to the players. Shane Dowrich, Kemar Roach, and Roston Chase all availed themselves of his skills, while captain Jason Holder also quizzed Chris on his skills and promised to check out the barber’s YouTube videos to pick up some education of his own. 4 | BarberNV Magazine
past and present and special guests attend to celebrate receiving the UK’s highest accolade for international business success, as well as the company’s landmark birthday. After a celebratory speech by Alan charting the history of the brand, which produces over 250 different brushes and is the only brush manufacturer to have held the prestigious Royal Warrant for nine consecutive reigns, Lord-Lieutenant of Hertfordshire presented the award and a special scroll signed by Her Majesty the Queen.
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#SHABA17
Can the best barbers in Scotland please stand up? The barbering industry up north came together in Glasgow on September 10th to celebrate the best of the best as part of the Scottish Hair and Beauty Awards. Although primarily geared towards the salon side of things, this year marked the second time that SHABA recognised top barbering talent, and some of the biggest names in the trade where there to celebrate with them. Simon Shaw, Wahl’s European Artistic Director, was on hand to not only hand over the award for Best Barber to Mr. Blonde’s Grant Carr, but also pick up an Industry Icon award himself. Adam Sloan, top dog at the Men’s Hair Federation, returned to his home city to give local barber and BarberNV columnist Alan Findlay the honour of becoming an MHFed Fellow. As owner of iconic Glasgow barbershop Rebel Rebel, Alan had the pleasure of seeing Gemma Willock-Smith bring the Best Female Barber crown back to the shop for the second
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year in a row, while Dionne Brisland won Best Apprentice Stylist. Also winning for the second year in succession was Best Barbershop, Stag Barber Co. of Edinburgh. Owner Murray McRae and his team were “absolutely buzzing” to be honoured yet again for their work. Another winner from Edinburgh was Best Apprentice Barber Charley Thomson of Orbit Smoke Barbers. The Orbit Smoke team are regulars on the Scottish show circuit and this win is proof that owner Angela Dickson’s excellent training methods are paying off in style. BarberNV Editor Simon Ritchie was on stage to hand over the Best Wet Shave award to Phil Simons of Phunk-U in East Kilbride. With decades of experience, Phil is widely regarded as one of the most hard-working guys in the business, and has also recently taken on the responsibility of setting up the Scottish Barber Expo. After the awards were handed out it was time to celebrate, which everyone certainly made the most of! Another great night out in Glasgow for SHABA 2017 and we already can’t wait for next year.
#SHABA17
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#SHABA17
AND THE WINNERS OF ARE...
Shaba 2017
BEST WET SHAVE SPONSORED BY WAHL UK Phil Simons Phunk U, East Kilbride
BEST APPRENTICE BARBER SPONSORED BY BARBERNV Charley Thomson Orbit Smoke Barbers, Edinburgh
BEST MALE BARBER SPONSORED BY BARBERNV Grant Carr Mr Blonde, Glasgow
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#SHABA17
BEST FEMALE BARBER SPONSORED BY WAHL UK Gemma Willock-Smith Rebel Rebel Barbers, Glasgow
BEST APPRENTICE STYLIST SPONSORED BY SALONNV Dionne Brisland Rebel Rebel, Glasgow
BEST BARBER SHOP SPONSORED BY HAIR & BEAUTY WORLD Stag Barber Co, Edinburgh
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Stag Barber Co. If there’s one thing founder Murray McRae of Stag Barber Co. hates it’s the phrase “just the usual” “It’s stagnant”, he explains. “Your hair is a creative outlet. You have control and creativity over it. If you feel like you don’t, your hairdresser isn’t doing their job properly,” he says. If anyone should know, it’s Murray. Stag Barber Co. in Edinburgh’s old town was recently named Scotland’s Best Barbershop at this month’s Scottish Hair and Beauty Awards for the second year running. At only three years old it’s a huge accolade for the small shop comprising of Murray and four staff. “It was really surprising. Although we’d worked really hard on making the shop better than ever - it’s not something you’d expect to win two years in a row,” Murray agrees. “It’s a big deal to put yourself out there to be judged. So when people do judge you and deem you to be the best in your field, it’s just an incredible thing.”
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He believes part of their success comes from the high level of skill on offer at Stag Barber Co. The barbershop aims to set themselves apart by offering a salon standard of haircut in a more relaxed environment, at a fraction of the price. His staff have an average of seven years of experience in high-end salons under their belt and are proficient in both men’s and women’s cuts. “We all cut hair in a more advanced way than what would be from someone who’s just learnt in the last year or so,” he says. Murray himself worked in arguably Edinburgh’s best salon for nine years, before recognising a gap in the market for high quality, affordable haircuts. “There was definitely a lot of barbershops popping up, but a lot of them were following a trend and just weren’t very good,” he says. “I wanted to give the same high quality haircut that i would give in the salon, but without all the stuffiness and unnecessary cost.” He also believes part of the reason clients flock to his salon is the time and effort the team puts in to taking care of the client. “It’s not only that we work really hard; it’s that we work really well.” Murray explains. “We’re very accessible, we’re friendly. We’re open to each individual. “That’s not a tactic. That’s how we are.” The shop only offers appointments, no walk-ins, so they have time to consult with each client and give them exactly what they want. “We ask them how their hair is, how it’s been. What’s bothering them about it. 70% of the haircut is understanding the person. We have a huge range of clients - all ages, all genders, all lengths of hair. We need to try to understand where everyone is coming from. “Just being able to do a good fade or a clipper cut - that doesn’t make you a hairdresser” he says. Murray says it doesn’t matter how long it takes, the consultation process is the most important part of the appointment. “A lot of guys think, if they have short hair or balding, they think having a haircut is just a necessity that keeps them smart. If you give them a consultation and let them have an opinion we can put that opinion into practice. “It’s a self-esteem thing. We give people a voice and have the tools to carry it out,” he says. Stag Barber Co. is definitely on trend. When we stop by there’s a few young bearded men leaning against a recycled timber wall. A light box with a bold motto emblazoned in duct tape glows from above the mirrors. But there’s also an older gentleman sitting on the leather lounge, while a father chats with his young daughter. It’s refreshing to see such a hip shop take a customer oriented approach. “It’s about respect,” Murray says, “we’re looking after people, we’re in their lives.” Murray asserts that every client is making a choice to be at Stag Barber Co. and he takes that decision very seriously. “It doesn’t matter if we’re fully booked, had a bad morning, or our bus was late. “When someone enters the shop and sits down, they’re only having that experience once every month or 8 weeks or so. They’re making a choice to spend that time with us so we need to make sure their time is well spent.” With a client retention rate of almost 100% and a standard wait of two weeks for an appointment, it would appear clients are making the choice to visit Stag Barber Co. again and again. But when asked about expansion plans, Murray is hesitant. “We’re more interested in focussing and making what we have the
best it possibly can be,” he says. “I’ve come to realise by looking at other businesses around that more shops isn’t the answer. You can dilute yourself and your quality suffers. “It’s not about making more money.” Instead, Murray suggests that changing opening hours and rotating staff will allow for the shop to accommodate their fast-growing clientele. “I’d rather have a place that is consistently excellent all the time rather than having lots of places that are sub-standard,” he says. Refusing to compromise on quality seems to be a recurring theme in every aspect of Stag Barber Co.’s work. The staff of Stag Barber Co. spent months trialling different hair products until they found one that they felt they could stand behind. “We want to make our own products, but we don’t just want to slap our name on a private label product that we don’t believe in.” The plan is to work with chemists and hair formulation experts to create their own range of products from scratch. It’s one thing to set your standards so high, but it’s another thing to meet them. But Murray says Stag Barber Co. will always keep competing and trying to prove themselves. “The main motivation is to push us a business and to show ourselves we’re always going to be scrutinised and judged,” he says. “It keeps you sharp all the time and doesn’t let you rest on your local success. Just being busy isn’t enough.” Murray also suggests there’s another key reason why it’s important to enter competitions - once again bringing the focus back to his allimportant clientele. “We want to show our clients that we care. That this is our passion. That we’re more than just a shop that’s riding this wave of hairdressers. “We were there 3 years ago and we’re still pushing it today. Harder than we ever have, more than anyone else.”
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UK Qualifiers
Having been whittled down from hundreds of applicants, seven UK-based barbers were given the chance to seal their place in the grand final in Nuremberg and go for that 10,000 Euro prize. Organised by 1o1 Barbers, it marked the first time the competition has taken place outside of Germany following its change from the German Barber Awards. Now a truly global event, the qualifiers in Scotland and England were the first of a number to take place across Europe. Interest was incredibly high, particularly considering it was the first time attempting such a far-reaching competition, and the seven UK qualifiers can be proud of their achievements in reaching that stage. Jacks of London in Clapham and Rebel Rebel in Glasgow were the venues for the qualifying, with Paul Morgan of Jacks and Alan Findlay of Rebel Rebel joining the judging panel at each event. The standard was high but only two barbers could automatically qualify for the final in Nuremberg, with the potential for a late wildcard depending on how other countries fared.
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Day 1 – Jacks of London, Clapham Junction James Kirton, Shane’s Hair Studio, Scarborough QUALIFIED David Serra, Toni & Guy, London, Ruth Geary, Tip Top Barbershop, Ashby de la Zouch Having opened just a week prior, there could scarcely have been a better setting for which to kick off the International Barber Awards UK qualifying than Jacks of London’s brand new Clapham store. Three finalists from around England made their way to the stunning barbershop on Sunday 20th August with models in toe to show their talent to the judges. Each was tasked with performing a traditional business cut and hot-towel shave on their model in a timeframe of no more than 70 minutes for the judging panel of Jacks of London Master Barber Paul Morgan and 1o1 Lead Educator Salvador Chanza. All three performed admirably, but there could only be one winner on the day and it was James Kirton of Shane’s Hair Studio in Scarborough who automatically qualified for Nuremberg. His bearded model was in for quite a shock when he discovered on the day he would have to shave off his facial hair of 10-years, with James only telling him on the way down, but it paid off! It was an exciting day for all three barbers, but Ruth Geary of Tip Top Barbershop in particular had quite an adventure. Not only was it her first time in the capital, but it was even her first time on a train, overcoming a lot of nerves and culture shock just to attend the qualifier. Although she didn’t make it through, hopefully the experience will have opened her up to a new world of barbering competitions where she can show-off her clear talent.
Day 2 – Rebel Rebel, Glasgow
Davie Walker, Davie the Barber - QUALIFIED Kyle Ross, Huntsman - QUALIFIED Husso, Brush Barbers Marty Walker, Jason Shankey The next day it was straight up north to Scotland to visit the iconic Glasgow barbershop, Rebel Rebel. Owned, of course, by our very own resident barbering expert Alan Findlay who joined the judging panel alongside Salvador. This time the finalists were from not only Scotland but also Northern Ireland, with Marty Walker travelling over from Belfast to take part. The conditions were exactly the same as for the English qualifier, a business style cut and hot-towel shave in 70 minutes. Unfortunately for Marty, he was unable to bring his ideal model over with him so was forced to rely on an unseen one at the last minute which was a far from perfect scenario and meant he wasn’t able to perform to the high standard he wanted. Not that you could tell from the finished cut, with all four pulling out some excellent styles and shaves, giving the judges a tough choice. The winner on the day, and securing his place in Nuremberg, was Davie Walker. Based just 15 minutes down the road from Glasgow in Paisley, it was a home win for Davie who’ll now look to replicate it when he travels to Germany.
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International barber awards
Nuremberg Final What to expect
THE FINALISTS
¼ Final
After numerous qualifiers around Europe, these are the finalists who have been invited to take part in the grand final in Germany. Representing 12 countries from all over the globe, one of them will walk away with the International Barber Awards crown.
Challenge: Medium to high skinfade pomp Time: 45’ + 5’ Participants must perform a medium to high skinfade pompadour hairstyle on their models. The pompadour is a popular men’s haircut that boosts volume on the fringe. Participants must have their model’s hair free of styling products. 45 minutes will be allowed to perform the haircut. The jury will check the work of each barber and then an extra five minutes will be provided to do the final styling. Each participant can do their own interpretation of a pomp. Either shiny or matte finishes are allowed. Each model must come with a haircut of at least 2cm length. Participants bringing prepared models or models with haircuts done some days in advance will be automatically disqualified. Participants performing a totally different haircut than instructed will be automatically disqualified. ½ Final Challenge: Full beard grooming and facial treatment Time: 60’ Participants must perform a full beard grooming including: beard trim, line-up with hot towel using straight razor, and face and beard treatment. With more and more men demanding facial grooming, the industry is providing more and more options for this. We want to see how creative participants are by performing a men’s spa treatment at the barbershop. Massages, masks, scrubs, soaps, steaming etc. are allowed as much as they help to create a relaxing experience for the model. We believe barbering is not only about cutting skills but also about creating a comfortable environment for men. Show us how good you are! Grand Final Challenge: Freestyle men’s total look Time: 90’ And the grand final has arrived! For this occasion, participants are required to perform a complete look on their models. Barbers must make their models shine! Including: Freestyle haircut, freestyle beard trim, styling, and outfit. Modern or classic styles are allowed, but remember you must impress the jury and the audience. Good luck!
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UK UK UK Portugal Spain Bulgaria Bulgaria Austria Austria Switzerland France Belgium Germany Germany Germany Germany Germany Germany Taiwan Chile Czech Republic
James Kirton Davie Walker Kyle Ross Isabel Serra Ayoze Medina Andrei Hincu Tsvetelina Gergova Michael Tews Jürgen Niederl Joel Blattner Geoffrey Kvot Kevin Boon Marina Ulrich Felix Heck Can Misirra Arben Lumi Robin Hörauf Ihab Iskandar Nick Lee Ariel Aguayo Catalan Vlad Lapinskyi
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2016 Winner
Sezer Soylu
The forerunner to the International Barber Awards was the German Barber Awards. While this year the IBA has invited barbers from all over the globe to take part, the spirit remains the same: the best all-round barber wins. Last year that was Sezer Soylu. A traditional Turkish barber who moved to Germany less than a decade ago but has now made his mark on the country’s barbering scene. Winning the German Barber Awards has brought untold joy to Sezer, improving his career and affording him opportunities he could scarcely have dreamed of before. So who better to ask about what this year’s competitors can expect! Discovery
It was actually back in 2015 that Sezer first became aware of the awards when his wife alerted him to them, however he was too late to enter and had to wait for the next year. “In 2016 I did not want to
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miss it,” he tells us.
“I looked intensively at everything at the first Barber Awards in Nuremberg and my hands trembled when I saw my professional colleagues on the stage. I had never seen anything like this before on a stage and I wanted to do it! “I was so impressed with the work of the participants that I also wanted to prove it to myself. Emotionally, my wife supported me. Even my boss encouraged me and said, “You can do it!” Germany’s Best Barber
Sezer’s boss was right to be confident, and after completing three haircuts live on stage, each demonstrating a different barbering skill you’d be expected to perform in the shop, he took the title home to Augsburg. It came as a bit of a shock to Sezer… “When my name was called out as the winner of the German
Barber Awards 2016, I could not believe it. Suddenly, everything went as though in slow motion. So many people came towards me: the cameras, the press, the barbers. I realised that this is one of the golden moments in life.
“On social media, I was overrun with congratulations from all over the world. Since then, I have done many press events. From the organiser, 1o1BARBERS, I am still very well supported today. So I belong today to the technical team of the 1o1BARBERS Academy and I have performed at many events and public fairs. “In October of this year the next milestone follows: the opening of my first own barbershop in my favourite city of Augsburg. The preparations are in full swing.
“But in spite of all this, I have always remained faithful to myself and I continue to do my daily work as a barber in the salon, just as before the Barber Awards. At the end of the day, what counts is the quality of work that you deliver day-by-day to every single customer.” What it takes
It’s that grounded sense of traditional barbering that has helped Sezer reach the heights he has. He puts the secret of his success down to one simple thing: “Learning, learning, and learning again.
“You should never stop learning, even when you are older and retired. My skills have grown over the years and are based on a lot of what I have learned. “For the Barber Awards I prepared myself intensively. If you are badly prepared or take it too easy, it will not work out. Each of my colleagues who took part there will confirm that the jury is demanding of a high degree of professionalism and competence. Every finalist who reaches the final and who stands on the stage is already a winner. No matter if you get the first or the last rank, the
finalists already belong to the elite. On the stage they will realise it is not that easy to compete against the participants and subtle nuances decide.” International Barber Awards 2017
Having been through the process and come out victorious, Sezer has plenty of advice to give to this year’s contestants. He says: “You should act with passion and focus fully on the work on the model on stage. Furthermore, stay calm and simply give your best at every second. The judges pay attention to many details, for example, hygiene, keeping the workplace clean, and how you perform, your stance, and how you interact with your model customer. They look more for precision and accuracy as well as what you made from the original hair condition of the model. “I also advise them to be a fair loser. Sometimes it costs more energy to accept you’ve been beaten and congratulate your colleagues. For me, it is a sign of a good character and strong personality.” Sezer’s future
With the recognition and fame from being crowned Germany’s Best Barber, Sezer set about making his dream of owning his own barbershop come true and is now close to making it happen. As with everything Sezer does, he didn’t rush into it, instead taking his time to find the perfect location inside a very old building which was formerly a bakery. Any International Barber Awards contestants looking for some advice at the final will be delighted to know that he will be making an appearance.
“Of course I will be in Nuremberg this year,” he tells us. “But not as a candidate. I want to shake hands with my successor and hand over ‘the throne.’”
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Photos by Pictures in Blood/Bart Masiukiewicz Dorota Puszkiewicz
Lumberjack Inc. host Beard and Moustache Festival The first ever Granite City Beard and Moustache Festival took place at the Parkway Bar and Lounge in Bridge of Don, Aberdeen. Some of the best facial fuzz that Scotland has to offer made their way north on Sunday 6th, August to enter into five different categories. Hosted by local brand Lumberjack Inc., ‘the manliest’ in the country, almost 200 people packed themselves into the suburban pub to enjoy everything from children’s face painting to locally brewed beers.
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Three barbers were on hand to keep the competitors looking their finest: JR Creations of Aberdeen, and Orbit Smoke and Statement Barbers from Edinburgh, while Scot Thompson of Lumberjack had handcrafted the winning trophies himself. To keep the crowds interested in between categories a host of stalls were on offer with everything from unique jewellery and one-of-a-kind artworks to Jack Daniels infused salmon and microbrews. BarberNV even got involved in the festivities, with our editor Simon coming third in the ‘Shit Beard Category’ – a proud moment. The event was such a success that Scot has already lined up his next celebration of the hirsute in Edinburgh this October. Check out the Auld Reekie Beardfest on Facebook for more details.
WINNERS Short Beard: John Boyle (Sanquhar) Long Beard: Steve Beard (Brechin) Freestyle: John Boyle (Sanquhar) Best Moustache: Richard Conway (Motherwell/Aberdeen) Shit Beard: Michael Farquhar (Aberdeen)
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BARBERING & THE FELLOWSHIP
W
hen you think of the Fellowship for British Hairdressing, you may not immediately think of barbering. But the fact is, barbers can get just as much out of the Fellowship as hairdressers can. Internationally renowned barber Chris Foster is the perfect example of this. He was the first barber to ever join the Fellowship back in 2007 and since then has been a master at Masterclasses, mentored the Fellowship teams, and performed on the Fellowship stage at Salon International and Pro Hair Live. Ultimately, the Fellowship is a platform to surround yourself with likeminded industry professionals, take up opportunities that present themselves and impart your knowledge and skill to others. “Back in 2007 when I was introduced to the Fellowship by Beverly C, you had to apply and put down the names of two people who would nominate you to join,” said Chris when explaining how he first become involved. “One of the names I put down was Beverly C, and the Fellowship were required to call
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Beverly to verify that I was eligible to be accepted. It really was an elite group of industry professionals! Although now it is much easier to join, it certainly remains a network of elite creatives. When I secured my first presentation for the Fellowship, as a sort of barbering Fellowship pioneer, I wanted to make it really interesting and impactful so I decided to dress up as Sweeney Todd and I presented a poem about the infamous man himself along with my models! It went down a storm and the audience loved it.” Now in its 70th year, the Fellowship has plenty to offer men’s hairdressers and barbers, from education to networking events with all the big barbering names storming the lineup; Jonathan Andrews from Jamie Stevens Hair, Ian Rotman from HOB, and Dean Bradwell from Scarlett Moon among many more. Last year’s male hairdressing centric events included two Men’s Hair Workshop and this year has so far seen a Men’s Hair Workshop and a ClubStar men’s hairdressing and business event with Johnny Shanahan from Barber Barber UK.
“In the last 10 years, the growth of the men’s hairdressing industry has been phenomenal,” says Chris. “Hairdressing has taken notice of this growth and we’re definitely keeping up with the women’s side of the industry, meaning we can get just as much out of the Fellowship. It’s a place for the hairdressing industry to all work together and share their skills – why wouldn’t you want to put yourself amongst that? They say you are defined by the company you keep! The Fellowship has allowed me to plug into the movers and shakers within the industry and as the old saying goes – it’s not what you know, it’s who you know! It’s allowed me to platform the art of male grooming and share my knowledge of barbering. Not to mention, it’s taught me so much more about the hairdressing industry which has helped me position my business, the Foss Academy, as an elite barbering education platform.” So how do you go about joining? The Fellowship offer five categories of membership: • ClubStar Membership – designed for any hairdresser aged 16 to 25, perfect for your budding superstars • Individual Membership – designed for one person, regardless of how many salons you have • House Membership – designed for three people from one company, regardless of
how many salons you have, ideal for an art team or hairdressing duo • House Plus Membership – designed for six people from one company, regardless of many how salons or premises you have • Affiliate International Membership – designed for any hairdresser or member of the hairdressing industry who lives and works outside the UK Once you have decided which one is right for you, you can download the relevant application form from the Fellowship’s website (www.fellowshiphair.com), complete and send back via email. “Like any networking group, you must invest time, energy and money into the Fellowship to ensure that you maximise every opportunity that this industry has to offer. This means going to events, spending time being seen and showing off your skills. There is no better platform than the Fellowship for this! Sometimes I have pinched myself at events as I was around some of the biggest names in the industry, and the Fellowship allows you to network with people that maybe you wouldn’t have had access to otherwise, who can help you to push your career in the right direction. This is where the Fellowship can benefit any barber thinking about joining. Do it!” For more information about the Fellowship and how to join, please visit www.fellowshiphair.com
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The Salon Sessions tour The Salon Sessions tour
Images by:
Old J Silver
Tom Chapman
What do you get when you combine a hip barbershop with a limitless supply of Old J Rum and some live local music? One hell of a night.
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Tom Chapman
That’s the concept behind Tom Chapman’s Salon Sessions which have seen numerous completely free parties at his Tom Chapman Hair Design salon. So far, however, these amazing nights have been limited to Torquay, but no longer! With Tom leaving the salon to take his work on the road, Salon Sessions is going with him! Rejoice! We’re looking for barbershops across the UK that want to host a once-in-a-lifetime party with Tom and the Old J team. Think your shop could be up to the task? Get in touch with us through Facebook, Instagram, Twitter, email, or hell, write us a letter if that’s still your thing, and we’ll be in touch. Whether you’re in Inverness or Brighton, we want to hear from anyone who thinks they can put on a night of revelry and rum.
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The Outlaw Barber Collective and American Crew Elite Team came together for a day of education at the Matthew Watt Hair Salon in Edinburgh. Head Outlaw Davie Walker and newest member of the collective Jamie Stuart of Barberdoo teamed up with award-winning stylists, and former BarberNV cover star, Sam Wall to bring an advanced educational course to 12 keen students looking to improve their barbering skills. With six spectators also watching on, the three educators ran through a series of barbering techniques from basic to advanced fade and some long-style scissor work. The trio took questions from the crowd who were keen to soak up the knowledge on show, with Davie, Jamie, and Sam bringing years of experience at the highest level in the industry. Following the morning session, it was time for the students to get down and dirty on their own models, while the experts helped them to master their styles and gave them feedback along the way. Davie said: “Instead of backing of from the challenge, a lot of them
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really pushed the boundaries with their models. They were a great bunch.” All of the participants walked away having learned numerous new skills and techniques that will help them in their career, and several have already signed up the Outlaws to come and give private education to their salons. Whether it’s a blow-drying styling top or a new technique on how to hold your scissors to improve your cutting, everyone who takes part in the sessions will walk away having another piece of knowledge to add to your arsenal. If your salon wants to further their barbering craftsmanship under the expert tutelage of the Outlaw Barber Collective they are available to come to salons around the UK. Other members alongside Davie and Jay include Tom Chapman, founder of the Lions Barber Collective, James Williams, founder of Autism Barbers Assemble, and another former BarberNV cover star, Jay Kizito Byrne. Contact daviethebarber1@gmail. com for more information and let the Outlaws share their wealth of knowledge with you.
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The Barberella Five female barbers face off in LA
Women working in any male dominated industry can find it tough to rise to the top. But not these barbers! Five of the finest barbers working in the USA went head to head in a live cutting contest at the Globe Theatre in LA in the first competition of its kind.
Photos By: Andrew Does Hair, Erik Voake & Steve Kim
H
aving qualified through a photographic competition against barbers from all over the country, the five finalists were flown into California for the final. In front of a packed audience, Claire Ramirez, Keller Leishman, Dayna Gamba, Akira Mink, and Taylor Leven were put through their paces with a group of celebrity barbering judges deciding the victor. Hosted by Stephen Moody, Dean of Education for Wella, and Mitchel Wilson, former Director of Education at Layrite, The Barberella was more than just a barbering competition, however. A number of special educational presentations took place, including Britain’s own Kevin Luchmun vs Mr Brother’s Cut Club vs Mizutani Cut Club in a cross-cultural cut show and a men’s cutting presentation from Sassoon Academy. The main event though was of course the five female barbers and they all heavily impressed the judging panel including Julius Caesar, Staygold31, Nina Koyner, Schorem, Daisuke Komatsu, Matt Beck, and Daniel Alfonso. Ultimately winning the competition was Taylor Leven from Skull & Thrones Hair Society in Addison, Illinois. Her incredible prize includes a $5,000 cash prize and a tour of cites in Asia with the Schorem Barbier team.
Winner: Taylor Leven
Sir Mo farah
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Nike x Porters At the IAAF World Championships London 2017
I
n August, the greatest athletes in the world descended on the greatest city in the world to showcase their superhuman physical abilities.
Records were broken, legends were made. From Justin Gatlin defeating Usain Bolt in the Jamaican hero’s last 100m sprint, to Sir Mo Farah bringing home the gold in the 10,000m, it was a World Championships to remember. Behind the scenes, away from the prying eyes of the global media, sportswear giants Nike were treating their athletes to the very best that Britain has to offer. In a top secret location in London, the Nike sponsored sportsmen and women had access to a private house containing everything they’d need to ensure they were in tiptop shape mentally and physically ahead of the competition. A personal tailor, bar, physio, lounge area, and, to keep their hair pristine, a barber. Running the Nike House Barber Shop for two weeks throughout the Championships were former BarberNV Barbershop of the Month, and prestigious London institution, Porters. Two Porters barbers, including owner Bora Esen, were on hand throughout
the fortnight to take care of the steady stream of top class athletes keen to avail themselves of Porters’ renowned services. With millions watching around the world on television, looking good was of prime consideration for Nike’s team and there was a queue of well-known faces in Bora’s chair. The most successful British track athlete in modern Olympic Games history, Sir Mo Farah, was among those to get involved, entrusting his iconic facial hair to Bora’s steady hand. Growing up just a few miles from the London Stadium where the Championship took place, it was a special occasion for Sir Mo and the Porters team ensured he looked fit for it. Other clients over the course of the competition included American track star Devon Allen, Jamaican hurdler Omar McLeod, and British middle-distance runner Kyle Langford. It was an incredible experience for the Porters barbers who rubbed shoulders with some of the most legendary figures in athletics, and showed the trust placed in them by Nike to look after their sportsmen. The Porters reputation far exceeds their hometown.
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showcase
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Copacetic Hair: Joth Davies Photography: Dominic Gregory
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Editor’s Comment We know many barbers get excited when American Crew release new products so this month will be no different. Their new Tech Series offers something completely different to their previous offerings so it’s definitely worth a try. Meanwhile, it’s not hard to notice that many young barbers like their tattoos these days, so new male grooming brand Skull & Bone have the lotion you’ve been looking for to keep your art looking fresh.
Mister Pompadour Natural Beeswax Paste A thicker hair styling paste that’s infused with purified beeswax and lanolin wax to provide a flexible high hold and natural matte finish that keeps your hairstyle looking sharp all day long. Ideal for all hair lengths, types, and styles - from short to long, thin to thick, and messy to combed. $19.50 –misterpompadour.com
Skull & Bone Tattoo Body Lotion Specially formulated to naturally enhance your tattoo’s ink with the use of natural oils and vitamins. When applied the oils and vitamins soak deep into the skin and draw out the original colour of the ink. As an added benefit the lotion provides long lasting nourishment and keeps your skin hydrated all day without the need to reapply. £9.99 - skullandboneuk.com
Layrite Daily Shampoo Designed to leave your hair clean, soft, and ready to style without stripping away any of its natural moisture. It creates a rich lather which is packed with eucalyptus and hemp oils to dissolve dirt and styling products that can weigh your hair down. Leaves protective natural oils behind that will help soothe dry, itchy scalps and its awakening fragrance will leave you feeling fresh and alert. $18 – layrite.com
American Crew Tech Series The latest range from American Crew introduces three new products, a Texture Foam, Control Foam, and Boost Spray. The latter prepares the hair for styling, adding volume while refreshing the hair and absorbing excess oil. Then depending on the level of hold and shine you are after, the Texture and Control foams offer truly next generation style. £12.90 – americancrew.com
Editor’s ChoiceENVY 32 | BarberNV Magazine
Hanz De Fuko Natural Shampoo and Natural Conditioner Everything you need for healthy hair comes in this kit from Hanz De Fuko, with both their Natural Shampoo and Conditioner. With continued usage hair will become noticeably thicker, stronger, and more manageable. £30.99 – muazo.co.uk
The Bluebeards Revenge Sea Salt Spray Launching at this year’s Salon International trade show, it’s specially designed with sea salt minerals to give men a natural look that boasts all of the volume, texture, and wave seen in hair of coastline junkies the world over. Featuring the brand’s signature fragrance, it can be reworked throughout the day. £9.99 – bluebeards-revenge.co.uk
Baxter of California Clay Effect Style Spray A lightweight hair spray featuring castor and jojoba oil that provides vitamin and nutrients for thinning hair, while still giving you strong hold and a texture-rich finish. Easy to apply and so versatile it can be used in all stages of the grooming routine. £27 – aandbsupply.co.uk
Clubman Pinaud Shave Talc A barbershop classic since 1810. Clubman Pinaud Shave Talc is made from the finest talc which helps to dim face shine as well as hide nicks and blemishes. Its neutral/natural tint will not show on the face. For use either pre or post shave. £5 - Barberblades.co.uk
Editor’s ChoiceENVY BarberNV Magazine | 33
Guardenza Beard Butter Creamy, leave-in conditioner designed to moisturise and soften coarse, dry, and frizzy beads. Made with an extremely rich blend of 13 different oils and butters which add moisture to the skin underneath your beard while conditioning and taming ti. €17.95 – guardenza.com
men-ü Shave Crème For use with or without a shaving brush, it gives a great close shave. A smooth ride for your razor means less resistance, less nicks, and a longer lasting blade. Includes tea tree oil which is ideal for spots and shaving rash. £11.95 – men-u.co.uk
Alter Ego Matte Gum This liquorice scented matte gum is perfect for lived-in and textured looks. With a medium hold factor and high definition, it’s excellent for details. Packed with wheat proteins to protect and strengthen while sunflower oil softens and nourishes. £14.95 – alteregoitaly.com
Sens.ùs Beard Color Gel Available in three colour shades and ammonia and PPD free, the new Beard Color Gel is a permanent oxidation gel cream specifically formulated for beards. It’s an ultra-quick treatment that covers grey hairs, reduces and controls unwanted tones in just a couple of minutes. Colour reduction is gradual and controlled. Passion4hair.com
groomingENVY 34 | BarberNV Magazine
Eufora Black Clay Shampoo Containing five key ingredients to help hydrate hair, soothe scalp irritation, and reduce flaking. With Kaolin Black Clay, Rosebay Extract, Aloe Vera, Liquorice Root Extract, and Coenzyme Q10 all working in tandem, it’s the perfect first step of your moisturising routine. £22.50 – passion4hair.com
Lock Stock and Barrel Pucka Grooming Crème A light styling crème that gives volume and adds life to any style with a medium, no-look hold, and a natural finish. Good for longer hair, it’s highly pliable but light and is a great everyday product. £11.95 – mankind.co.uk
Proraso Moustache Wax Whether you’re going for a more natural style or a full-on handlebar, this soft, pliable wax has been formulated to help you create and re-create any style you like. Scented with cedar wood, eucalyptus, and Mediterranean cistus provides a fresh masculine scent that is very light and never overpowering. £8.40 – thegroomingclinic.com
TIGI Bedhead for Men Pure Texture Molding Paste Enriched with Raspberry Butter for softening and antioxidant action from vitamin E, natural refined beeswax for hold and control as well as carnauba wax to make the hair moldable. This finishing wonder prevents frizz with its Mirustyle complex and adds texture with a matte finish whilst keeping in moisture. £8.05 – mankind.co.uk
groomingENVY BarberNV Magazine | 35
COMPETITION! The Beast Competition Prize RRP £245 REM The Viscount With classic proportions, clean lines and sophisticated design, Viscount’s presence is emphasised by the generous upholstery and its elegant chrome steel outer frame. A modern take on the classic barber’s chair. Available in over 20 different fabric finishes. £840 – rem.co.uk
Menspire Feather Razor Created to help stylists work more ergonomically in the way of creating separation and texture. With its simple to use universal finger sleeve holder, you can control shape form and technique whilst reducing density through the hair. £20 – menspire.co.uk
Matakki Oriba
NT ISCOU D % 0 2 G USIN WHEN KI’ ATAK ‘20M
Hand crafted from cold forged Japanese VG-10 steel from the Hitachi company in Japan, finished with fully convexed edges for a cut so soft you won’t believe it. This scissor is designed for both wet and dry cutting, with the ability to slice cut too, it’s a bit of an all-rounder. £385 – Matakki.com
The Beast from Matakki, not just a scissor but a piece of art. Hand produced with high carbon Japanese steel for added durability making the scissor super smooth, balanced and razor sharp.
Competition Question: Which rap group released Intergalactic in 1998?
Barbicide Large Disinfectant Jar 1 Litre The iconic symbol for safety and cleanliness in the barbershop has always been the faceted glass jar with the silver lid! Still made with the same quality as it was 75 years ago, this Barbicide jar will meet all your needs for disinfecting all sizes of implements. £28.62 - salonsdirect.com
Furniture & equipmentENVY 36 | BarberNV Magazine
Send your answers on Instagram to @BarberNVMagazine The winner will be announced in the next edition.
Takara Belmont Legend The new Legend grooming chair from Takara Belmont represents the pinnacle of equipment innovation. Fully motorised, it guarantees unsurpassed luxury for sublime client comfort and relaxation, and wouldn’t look out of place in any premium salon. Quality and durable, it delivers aesthetically, functionally, and ergonomically. £5,780 – takarahairdressing.co.uk
Jaguar Silver Line The crane style design for ergonomic handle and position and relaxed working aids in those long days in the shop, while 36 thinning teeth with fine v-teeth serration give a pleasantly smooth feeling and precise cut. 5.25 inches. $223 – xtremeshears.com
Wahl Cordless Senior The newest addition to the 5 Star Series, the Cordless Senior has an adjustable thin profile blade for precision fades and closer cutting, while the powerful motor generates a higher blade speed for more cutting power. wahlglobal.com
Premier Madison Barber Unit Sleek, stylish and perfect for the modern barber. Finished in a smart matt black coating, with a hard wearing black glass work surface and two storage drawers. The large work surface allows you to display all your products and have all your tools close to hand. £325 + VAT - Barberequipmentcentreuk.co.uk
Furniture & equipmentENVY BarberNV Magazine | 37
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+44 (0)800 644 0234 38 | BarberNV Magazine
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BarberNV Magazine | 39
London Denim Eden T-Shirt A unique idea from the team at London Denim. You can get this single stitch t-shirt for two different price points depending on how long you’re willing to wait for it. As they are all designed to order, the larger volume they receive the cheaper they are able to produce them, so it’s a rare chance to get a handcrafted t-shirt for as little as £20. £20 – londondenim.co.uk
Reuzel Weapon of Choice T-Shirt We all have our favourite clipper. Whether it’s a certain brand, either corded or cordless, has just the right amount of weight, not too heavy, not too light, or if it just seems to get your fades the way you like ‘em, it’s your weapon of choice. Celebrate it with this t-shirt from the Schorem boys. £20 + VAT – reuzelpomade.com
Hair Tools Charcoal Barber Apron Keep it clean and simple in the shop with the latest addition to Hair Tools apron range with this classy charcoal number. Made from high quality polyester for durability, it has two front pockets to keep your tools, while the adjustable straps means it will fit anyone. Hairtools.co.uk
Suavecito OG T-shirt The classic Suavecito logo is instantly recognisable on this deep dark black t-shirt. This is no-frills, elegant design at its best. Made from 100% cotton it will hold up to all the abuse you can throw at it in shop and at conventions. $17.99 – suavecito.com
Hard Grind Fuck Egos T-Shirt Stick your finger up to the unchecked egos in the industry with this t-shirt from the lads at Hard Grind. The new fit comes with a slightly extended body and classic shape, so bear that in mind if you’ve bought a previous Hard Grind top, but a new printing process means the designs will last longer without fading. £25 – hardgrind.co.uk
ApparelENVY 40 | BarberNV Magazine
BarberNV Magazine | 41
YS Park 201 Carbon Comb Designed to make scissor over comb cutting easier than ever, the handle with two different grip positions for great comfort and leverage. Made with carbon fibre to give it extra strength and has a soft feel which means it will flex to extreme angles without pushing too hard against the head. $22 – ysparkusa.com
Alter Ego Italy Beard Brush The new Grooming for Men range from Alter Ego Italy is packed full of fantastic items. Using the Beard Brush is a crucial first step in the care process and can be used to detangle without scratching, or for applying their great smelling Beard Balm. £12.95 – alteregoitaly.com
Semogue Silvertip Badger Shaving Brush
Matakki MT10c Carbon Cutting Comb A true professional barber comb manufactured from carbon making it heat resistant and anti-static, while remaining strong, durable, and extremely lightweight. A dream to work with, it’s perfectly balanced for everyday use.
A great looking brush with contemporary European styling from Portuguese brand Semogue who have been hand making these since 1954. A subtle convex circular solid acrylic handle with an eyecatching two tone design carries an ‘Excelsior’ badge and is topped with a silver collar.
£10 – Matakki.com
£60.95 – shavelounge.co.uk
The Bluebeards Revenge Vent Brush To aid in the longer, more flowing looks currently in vogue, the Bluebeards have designed this Vent Brush specifically with barbers in mind. The carefully sculpted vents in the brush help to increase the airflow that hair receives during heated styling. It stands out from the crowd with its beech wood handle and laser etched Bluebeards logo. £14.99 – bluebeards-revenge.co.uk
Guardenza Beard Comb Not only does this beard comb have an aesthetic appeal and compact size, but consists of fine and wide teeth that will work great on your beard. The comb is gentle to your beard, and it will not snag hairs or static like cheap plastic combs. € 10.95 – guardenza.com
combs & brushesENVY 42 | BarberNV Magazine
skull & bone TATTOO BODY LOTION The Skull and Bone Tattoo Body Lotion is specially formulated to naturally enhance your tattoo’s ink with the use of natural oils and vitamins. When applied the oils and vitamins soak deep into the skin and draw out the original colour of the ink. As an added benefit the lotion provides long lasting nourishment and keeps your skin hydrated all day without the need to re apply. Available exclusively online at www.skullandboneuk.com
About Skull & Bone
Skull and Bone is a male grooming brand hailing from the North East of Scotland. Designed around the modern day man, the brand endeavours to keep mens health a priority whilst providing a nautical, manly image. All the products are strictly natural and each product is specifically researched, tested and manufactured to ensure that both the body and hair are kept in the best condition. Hitting the market with its first six products and making a statement instantly in the barbering community the brand intends on releasing a further four products before the end of the year.
shop online at skullandboneuk.com
/skullandboneuk
@skullandbone_official
“I’VE GOT 99 PROBLEMS BUT MY BEARD AIN’T ONE” For the discerning beardsman, Guardenza grooming products are made from the finest ingredients and are ideal for daily use. Your beard deserves the best and the Guardenza Beard & Face Wash is specially designed to cleanse, soften and hydrate your skin and facial hair. No beardsman wants a coarse and frizzy beard. Guardenza Beard Butter moisturises and conditions the wildest of manes, leaving your beard fresh and clean with a tropical scent of pineapple, coconut, and sweet orange.
Shop online at guardenza.com
BarberNV Magazine | 43
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showcase
BONS BARBERS Photography: Gerardo Rainone
BarberNV Magazine | 45
TAKARA BELMONT
T
he evolution of barbering, as a defined genre within the hairdressing and beauty industry, has found many forms - from traditional barbershops to themed vintage and contemporary spaces to luxurious male grooming boutiques, all of which have elevated the quality and range of grooming treatments, and the service experience for male clients. This expansion has also been met with an elevation in the image, technical capability and mindset of barbers and business owners, resulting in an artistic and commercial explosion. A growing number of dedicated exhibitions and events, barber awards and competitions, media outlets, and associations championing the barbering sector provide further evidence of this phenomenon. No longer viewed as the ‘poor relation’ of a thriving hairdressing and beauty industry,
it’s a pulsating, energising, and vibrant scene that professionals and consumers are gravitating towards. The bar has been raised high. Innovation in hair cutting and styling techniques, haircare products, tools, and training are all driving standards, producing evocative photo collections, and creating new icons in the world of barbering. One such icon on the furniture and equipment front is Takara Belmont, for whom the current state of barbering comes as no great surprise. In 1921, the company started manufacturing barber chairs and ignited a passion for barbering that remains as steadfast today. It’s not wide of the mark to suggest that Takara Belmont takes a share of the credit for shaping this great industry. While many of its product designs have become legendary in their own right, to become symbols of international barbering, Takara Belmont’s influence reaches beyond furniture and equipment design.
At the heart of its original philosophy was a dedication to the customer and service. Their aim was, and indeed remains, to create furniture and equipment classics that accrue more appeal with age, and to develop products that stand the test of time in more than just design terms. As a result, the Takara Belmont name has become synonymous with quality and durability. It has set the benchmark for timeless design, build quality, and matchless endurance to ensure each product delivers decades of dependable service, comfort, and style. And these are not words, promises, or aims; they are factual realisations that are embodied in the experiences of their customers, and in their global reputation.
BarberNV Magazine | 47
Takara Belmont’s influence reaches beyond furniture and equipment design. Rising to become a world-class barber equipment company, Takara Belmont quickly became a major exporter of its product and expertise. This added a global perspective from which the company gained influence throughout every aspect of salon and barbershop life. By absorbing different trends, cultures, languages, and by understanding the varying expectations of business owners and consumers, Takara Belmont not only brought ground-breaking ideas and equipment innovations to reinvent services and customer experiences, it shaped interior planning and design to create some of the most aweinspiring interiors the industry has seen. To this day, a salon owner can share their ideas, vision and concept with Takara Belmont and they will create 2D and 3D designs and floor plans to bring their vision to life and make it a reality. On every level, as Takara Belmont’s Katie Wrighton explains, the company has succeeded in defying fashion to create a product and service offering that has endured throughout the decades. “It’s ingenious and very indicative of Takara Belmont,” she says. “Despite changing interior fashion and equipment designs, we have products that span every era, interior design and any colour scheme.” The Apollo 2 barber chair makes the point for her. “This chair was designed over five decades ago, yet its popularity has simply increased every year. It never ages. For modern interiors, vintage and retro, and for luxury men’s grooming salons it just works and can be customised to slip seamlessly into every space.” It doesn’t end there, as the same can be said for chairs across its ‘traditional’ collection: “The GT Sportsman, Dainty and Legacy 95 all share this trait. They are ageless, timeless designs that have enduring appeal,” says Katie.
That said, Takara has perfected a way of evolving each product to extend their appeal and open up new possibilities. The Apollo 2, for example, has seen two new iterations in recent times. In 2014, The Apollo 2 ‘Elite’ brought two stunning variations with the Apollo’s traditional steelwork transformed to a new glossy white or black finish, as part of a makeover that has seen demand rise in high-end establishments across barbering, hairdressing and even beauty and spa. The ‘Bentley’ inspired Apollo 2 Icon, launched earlier this year, added a classy diamondstitched upholstery approach that now graces the floors of upmarket grooming destinations. Meanwhile, the Legacy 95 looked back to the 1940s for retro inspiration fit for the modern age. Launched to mark the company’s 95th anniversary in 2016, this chair demonstrated yet again that great style never goes out of fashion. “The Legacy dynasty has remained constant throughout our history,” says Katie. “The new ’95’ was of course upgraded to reflect the latest in material technology, but it has a vintage appeal that still excites barbershops of all styles.” And then of course we pass through the gender-neutral. The Cadilla styling chair along with its backwash version and the British vintage inspired Halo collection present styling chairs that feel equally at home in a hairdressing or barbering environment. Away from the everyday, Takara Belmont packs a punch when it comes to grandeur and motorisation. The Japanese penchant for gadgetry has not been wasted on Takara Belmont, and their application of it has yielded the industry’s most luxurious chairs. Plush in every detail and driven by leading-edge technology, the Maxim has found favour in prestigious, no-expense-spared grooming emporiums, as well as VIP lounges at airports, on luxury yachts and even in the homes of
a very discerning clientele. Technology has yielded a range of fully motorised products, most recently with the Inova EX and the new Legend. “We lead the world in the application of technology to equipment and this has redefined style, comfort and precision ergonomics for both customers and stylists,” states Katie. But these ‘heroes’ among Takara Belmont’s repertoire are only parts of a much bigger equipment picture. Their Salon Console brought an innovative space saving integrated backwash and styling station concept forward, and more recent evolutions include the stylish Aubrey barber station, which proved an immediate hit. Katie Wrighton: “Salon Console demonstrates the application of technology as an integral part of our offering. This system delivers thermostatically controlled water flow, regulated pressure and builds on a revolutionary idea that has delivered a real solution in spatially-challenged settings. “The Aubrey is traditional to the core, and it is a firm favourite. It also features our Majolica Porto ceramic basin which, with gel-filled neck pillows, ensures total comfort for the client. These can also be accessorised with our Hot Cabi towel cabinet and trolleys to coordinate your look and support your service provision.” Browsing through Takara Belmont’s range is like walking through a century of barbering pedigree and prestige, whilst at the same time peeking into the future and seeing what lies ahead. It’s quite a story and it’s easy to appreciate why this company is the gold standard in global furniture and equipment; the benchmark brand by which all others are measured. But what makes this all the more exciting is its accessibility. Quality endures and investing in Takara Belmont equipment makes sense visually, functionally, and economically. With leasing packages available on every piece, considering Takara Belmont when you next buy equipment will be among the best business decisions you’re ever likely to make. Discover more at www.takarahairdressing.co.uk call: 020 7515 0333
or email: hairdressing@takara.co.uk
The golden Generation
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Contrary to the current popular opinion, barbering didn’t begin when Instagram did. Children growing up today may picture a barber as a young 20/30-year old man or woman, covered in tattoos, wearing skinny jeans, and a snapback. They’ll take a picture of the cut when they’re finished and post it on Instagram in the hope of receiving comments such as “FLAMES” and “tight fade”, but this is a world away from what the industry has been like for the past century. The last decade has changed everything.
Don’t think we’re insulting the way things are – without it BarberNV wouldn’t exist. But we thought it was time to pay homage to barbers and barbershops who found their place in a much less sexy time for the trade. From barbershops that have existed for over a century to barbers with decades and decades of experience, and even the story of a barber who fought in World War II, hopefully the younger generation can learn a thing or two. BarberNV Magazine | 51
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The barbering trade has a long history of fantastic adverts, so as we take a look at some of the elder statesman of the industry, enjoy some classic male grooming ads from years gone by
THE GOLDEN GENERATION
MODEL
Having run Garry’s Barber Shop for over 30 years, keeping standards high and having pride of place in the Holywood community, Garry Jackson is truly a model barber. And having fronted advertising campaigns for everyone from TK Maxx to Victoria Square Shopping Centre to Bushmills Whiskey, Garry is literally a model barber. Garry’s Barber Shop On the outskirts of capital city Belfast, Holywood is a small place that has made a big impression on the world, with both golfing superstar Rory McIlroy and Hollywood A-lister Jamie Dornan hailing from the town. When you walk into Garry’s Barber Shop though, every client is a celebrity. Garry says: “I probably know ¾ of my customers by their first name. We have five full-time and two part-time barbers, plus my wife does all the hot towel shaves so on a Saturday there could be eight of us all working and we’re maxed out.” It’s no surprise that Garry is one of Ireland’s most recognisable barbers, but for him it’s all about being recognised in his community
BARBER
GARRY JACKSON
and he has worked hard to establish Garry’s Barber Shop as more than just a place to get your hair cut. It’s a shop where three generations of a family have been known to come. He says: “The guy that came to me 30 years ago bringing his children. They’re grown up now and bringing their own children. It’s all about community, it’s all about people. If you don’t like people, don’t become a barber.” With the success he’s had, the opportunity to expand Garry’s Barber Shop across the country is always there, but it’s not something Garry has considered. “People have always said ‘Why haven’t you opened a load more shops?’ But I always think it says Garry’s above my shop. If it says my name above the shop then I should be here and I never wanted the logistical headache - you can only be one place at a time. I never wanted an empire.” Different times It’s a refreshing attitude to hear from a barber who could have had it all, but is happy with what he’s got. Compare it to today’s ‘Instagram generation’ who want to run before they can walk. Having left Northern Ireland for London during the height of The Troubles in 1980, before returning six years later, Garry has seen the change barbering has gone through first hand. “There’s a lot more choices for young barbers these days,” he tells us. “When I became a barber it wasn’t cool. The 1980s was the decade that good taste forgot and that’s when I learned my trade, learned my craft. Barbering was coming back, but you had a lot of shit haircuts.” Now it’s a different story, he says. “The last five or six years it has exploded. Social media changed everything.
“Barbering has had its golden ages. Probably the biggest golden age was the 1920s, the jazz age. When you think of your favourite gangster films, the prohibition days, there’s always a really cool barbershop. Then the 1950s, just after the war. Men had rock ’n’ roll and kids could express themselves, you didn’t have to get a regulation haircut. Now we’re bang into a new era.” Bringing them up Garry served his apprenticeship under the best possible influence: Ted Johnston, a second generation barber whose shop, The Continental Barbers, is still going strong in Belfast today, more than 50 years after he opened it – with Ted still putting in a shift. That type of ethic has become rare but it’s something Garry embodies, along with a strong demand for excellent customer service. It’s what he instils in his apprentices, as well as something simple that many may overlook… He explains: “The first thing I teach any barber is how to stand, your posture. Rule number one is look after yourself physically or you’re going to have a bad back or a sore neck. Then it’s how to speak to people. To look people in the eye when they come into your shop. Give them positive body language, say ‘how are you?’ It’s not exactly rocket science but so many people get it wrong. Not just barbers but any service. If you go into a barbers how often do you get good service? It’s sadly lacking. I want people to feel welcome, I want them to feel like they’re with their friends.” Garry believes young barbers these days need to leave their egos at the door, saying: “It’s not about him or her. It’s about the customer. You know what young men are like, it’s all about the size of their dick, all this alpha male bullshit. The customer is king, they’re the one that pays your wages, pays your mortgage, and puts food on your table.” Life’s a stage While many younger barbers dream of being invited to cut hair at a huge barbering event, wowing their audience, and proving their skill, Garry takes such invitations in his stride. “I don’t think I’ve got anything to prove by getting on stage and cutting hair,” he says. “I don’t feel the need to do that.” But as a highly respected barber, the companies keep asking and he does accept some of the offers. As well as attending Salon International as the guest of Takara Belmont, he’ll be taking up the role of MC at the second edition of BarberCut in Dublin. A more relaxed barbering experience, it’s a whole different vibe from the likes of Salon International and alongside his friends from the industry like Johnny BaBa and Joth Davies, Garry says he’ll “be having a bit of fun on stage.”
THE GOLDEN GENERATION The Swag Collective and local connections If you head to Dublin, you’ll witness Garry in his latest striking suit from friend and regular collaborator Dee Graham. Dee, who has made suits for the likes of Conor McGregor, is one of a number of artists from the area who Garry has teamed with to promote one another’s work. Having been involved with our workshop set up by Garry Spencer of The Great British Barber Bash with Neal Toner and Micky Graham a few years back, Garry and Dee worked together on a promotional video which signalled the start of a long term working relationship. “Ever since then we’ve networked with each other. Say, for example, I’m going to Barber Connect. Dee will make me a one-off suit for the event and when I someone asks me about it I’ll give them one of Dee’s cards. Now we have this pool of creativity with photographers, videographers, singers and songwriters that come into the shop. We all network with each other, promote each other. When one gets a leg up the others do. It spreads the love.” As well as Garry and Dee, the collective’s third member is Adam Lightbody of Urban Tonic. Their excellent personal and working relationships means they are happy to come together as a trio and team up.
Garry says: “We do pop-up events where we go to fashion events or barbering events and set up our own wee ‘man cave’. Dee will have his suits, we’ll have two or three barber chairs set up, and Adam will have all his beard stuff out. It’s a one-stop shop for guys who want to hang out, have a beer with us, find out everything they ever wanted to know about beards, or get measured up for a bespoke suit.” Staying local is important for Garry with his barbershop as well. He likes being able to tell his customers that “everything I sell in my shop is locally made in North Down.” Whether that’s from Urban Tonic or global brand Denman who are from Bangor just five miles down the road, it’s a policy he sticks with, and once more highlights the importance of community in Garry’s life. The face that launched a thousand brands While Garry’s emphasis is on the nearby, his influence is global. His image has been seen around the world, but it wasn’t something that Garry went looking for. It stemmed from an innocuous decision. “I grew a beard,” he laughs. “It’s as simple as that. I was approached by CMPR, a PR company and modelling agency. Like any other 51, 52 year old Northern Irish bloke you go ‘What? Modelling? What you talking about?’ But she said I was the type of guy her client was looking for.” Discarding his reservations, while ensuring he didn’t take any modelling jobs that would give his friends any ammunition down the pub, Garry dove in. It proved to be the right decision. “I’ve done loads of stuff of for the likes of TK Maxx and Bushmills Whiskey and long may it continue. Every billboard in Greater Belfast has had my face on it! How much would I have to pay for that sort of publicity? I’ve just done a big one for Victoria Square in Belfast which is where all the nice shops are – they’ve just done a big event in the month of August and it was my mug all over the shopping centre!” Becoming a hot-shot model hasn’t led to any massive lifestyle change for devoted family man Garry, but his family certainly get a kick out of it. “My wife and my daughter just think it’s hilarious. I get a buzz off it, I’m not going to lie to you.” It’s also led a to recent film role, with Garry putting on the dog collar to play a priest. “A friend of mine was in the film,” he explains. “She was playing the main part and the director was saying they needed a priest so my friend showed a photo of me to her and she said ‘we need to get him.’” Although it hasn’t led to a move from Holywood to Hollywood just yet, Garry is having fun with his life outside of barbering. “I’m 54 years old. I’ve paid my dues for the last 30 years, feeding my family, getting my daughter through uni. I’m a grandfather now and I’m having a ball – I don’t do anything I don’t enjoy.” It’s been a life well lived for Garry and hopefully many up and coming barbers can learn from the lessons he’s imparted.
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Robert Rix Words f rom the Wise
The Company of Master Barbers Ltd
Wayfarer’s Arcade, 315 - 317 Lord Street, Southport, PR8 1NH, Telephone 01704 807176 Robert Rix, SHR SRSB MCH MCB
H
ow time flies these days, no sooner has one edition been put to print than the next one is being compiled. I have been fortunate in being granted Carte Blanche by the editor to write about anything that takes my fancy and so when we were discussing this issue of BarberNV the general consensus was that the main topic should be The Golden Generation. Far too often these days I am hearing both from media sources and from clients that, over the past few years, there has been a renaissance in barbering. To my understanding of things, nothing could be further from the truth. To suggest that a renaissance has taken place would by default put forward a proposition that barbering had existed at something like its current level at some time in the past. That is a false premise and founded on a misconception. Barbering as it is now has never existed before, we are witnessing a completely new phenomenon. Barbering in the UK and even around the globe is going through the best time it has ever had; it has never been so popular or been so much in demand. Barbering and by extension the whole concept of male grooming is riding on the crest of the biggest wave of popularity that has ever come our way. I know that there will be someone out there who says “he’s talking bol***ks,” but hear me out on this one before you condemn my words to being the ramblings of an old man. Consider first the socio-economic factors; in the past there was a huge wealth gulf between rich and poor. Of course the growth of hair has no social boundaries or limitations, the pauper can grow hair just as well as the prince and vice versa. How the resultant hair is dealt with on either side of the economic divide is indeed the crux of the matter. Hair growth for the poor would have been a hindrance, something to
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be got rid of as easily and cheaply as possible. To the poor, too much hair may have burdened them during their daily toil. Whereas for the rich, tending to their luxurious locks may have been a source of infinite pleasure and self gratification, the cost of which may have seemed to be money well spent. Yes there would have been establishment such a Geo Trumpers and Truefitt & Hill in London’s St James’s but apart from these top notch establishments barber shops were well and truly small fry, often just simple one man businesses where the sole proprietor would eke out his humble living. While on the subject of the social divide consider also the need of the working man to rid oneself of head lice; something that would have been all to prevalent in the working classes, whilst their richer counterparts on the other side of the wealth divide would have been totally blinded to such things as infestations. In essence the shorter the hair could be kept the less likely it would be that pediculosis capitis would find a home in his barnet.
of £100 to cover my tuition. Mr Russell’s business was a well-run, smalltime barbershop located in a secondary trading position in a reasonable suburban area of an industrial city. His clients were a mix of all walks of life, working class to upper middle class; not the lowest of the low nor the aristocracy, in short a good middle of the road type of client base. The work we carried out there was to say the least utilitarian, most definitely not high fashion nor avant-garde, just work a day hair cutting for the general populous. What that did for me was give me good solid grounding in the craft that would stand me in good stead for the remainder of my days. Yes, I learned to make tea and to sweep up but that is all part of doing a proper apprenticeship; you don’t have to be taught some of the tricks of the trade you just soak it up through your skin simply by being in that environment.
So in this argument let’s move on to some other features; consider now my 56-years in the craft. When I first started out as an apprentice I worked in a three-chair shop on the outskirts of Sheffield, at 391 Walkley Road to be exact, just off Malin Bridge to anyone who knows the area.
An important part of any barbershop’s revenue was derived from the sale of contraceptives. In those days the term condom hadn’t come into common use and these things were referred to under a number of different titles:- French Letters, A Packet of 3, Jonnies, and so on. The chief manufacture was then as is now the Durex company, and most barbershops sported the familiar pale yellow wall clock with the slogan DUREX emblazoned across its dial in dark red.
The cost of a haircut then was three shillings and nine pence (3/9d) that’s 19.5p in the money of today. My pay was £1.50 a week for a five-day week and my train and bus fares to work amount to £1.55 so at the end of the week I was a whole shilling out of pocket for working. My day off was Thursday and on that day I also travelled into the city to attend Pond Street Technical College to do what would now be called my NVQ Level 2. My parents had paid a bond to my employer – Mr Harold Henry Russell, the staggering amount
Sales of contraceptives were dealt with in Mr Russell’s establishment in a very polite and discreet manner. Prior to entering the main body of the shop there was a screened of entrance vestibule within which was a service hatch located at about chest height. There was electric buzzer that would summon attention when pressed by a client waiting in the outer vestibule. The service hatch would be raised and three shillings and nine pence (3/9) [yes the same price as a haircut] was placed on the
service shelf and the client would state his preference; the contraceptives in their grey and maroon packet would be passed to the waiting client and the service hatch would be closed. Neither the client nor the person serving had seen each other’s face. Perfect anonymity for both parties. Oh how things have changed! Within five-years I had become a ladies hairdresser and was working on London’s Bond Street. Dylan was singing ‘the times they are a changing,’ I’m going back now to 1965-6 and the emergence of the freedom that the swinging 60s brought. In London everything was happening – women’s lib, the pill, psychedelics, free love, flower power, and, most importantly of all, SASSOON. Vidal Sassoon broke the mould; he took what the rest of us were doing with hair and literally turned it on its head. I’m so glad I lived when I did and so glad that I was there in London when all this was happening. Believe me it was a revolution. Vidal’s work was a real game changer, this guy re-wrote the rule book (not to mention the huge part that was played in these revolutionary times by such greats of the hairdressing craft as Roger Thompson, Josh Galvin, and Christopher Brooker). I stayed in the ladies side of the game for quite a while but eventually I returned to the more comfortable, and for me, more profitable occupation of barber. But, I’m getting off the main focus of this piece, and that is what barbering was like in times gone by, so let me whisk you off to the days of my childhood and how I remember what it was like in those dim, dark and distant days. My first real recollection of going for a haircut must have been at about the age of three or four years old. I was a skinny little brat and I can distinctly recall sitting on a padded board that spanned the arms of a wooden chair. The upholstering on the board was held in place with big brass studs that I rubbed my fingers against under the cutting gown. The barber was called Bob Hulse and he had a one-man shop located on a bridge in Swinton – South Yorkshire. Back in those days Bob used hand clippers rather than the electric type, other than that I don’t remember much about my visits to his shop. Move on a few years and by this time my jet black tresses were being tended to by Mr Alexander – a stocky sort of a chap with black wavy hair, who must have hailed from London judging by his accent. We schoolkids used to refer to his establishment as Alexander’s Rag Time Barbers – Lord knows why. Alexander used to have tatty and very well read copies of the Dandy and Beano for the kids to scan over as they waited patiently in line on the padded bench for their turn to come round. Alexander was a competent mimic and much to the delight of the waiting line of schoolboys he would do cat and dog impressions as he did the haircuts. The arch rival in town to Alexander was a fellow called Vin Grant, who had a huge stuffed pike in a glass case featured in his shop window. The shop had a bus stop straight outside and we would stand and stare at this denizen of the deep after we had had our haircut and waited for the bus
home. Vin was lightning fast and no sooner had you been seated in the chair than you were being dusted off and you money being rung into the till. In those days being a fast barber was seen as being a very positive thing. It was quite common to be the eleventh or twelfth in line in a one-man shop and still be back on the street with your hair cut within the hour. Having survived the trials and tribulations of early childhood by the time I had hit 11-years old I was going further afield to get my hair cut. I frequented the premises of Mr Fredrick Coles who had a shop at No:3 West Street Mexborough, I know that address well because I bought his business from his widow after his death. Fred Coles was something different, he would shampoo your hair and make it stand up with a hairdryer. This technique that can only be described as the forerunner to blow waving was revolutionary in a small northern town. As a consequence he cornered the market in discerning clients and everyone who thought they were someone used Fred. Fred’s West Street shop featured a pink and black vitrolite workstation and rudimentary hydraulic chair upholstered in dark green vinyl.
Robert Through the Years
Age 5
Just around the corner from Fred’s shop was the high street establishment of Mr Wilfred Lyons. Wilfred catered for the older end of the trade and did not have the same degree of flare that Fred displayed. I also bought Wilf’s shop from his widow when he died. In fact when I opened up in that town there were 13 barber shops, when I left some years later there were five and I owned three of them. All of the above mentioned barber shops were one man affairs, all good profitable little businesses that gave their respective owners a reasonable living for doing a good day’s work and catering for the hairdressing needs of their locale.
Age 13
If you wanted to visit a real top class establishment you had to go to a larger town or a city. Austin Read, Derry & Tom, Horne Brothers, Watson & Prickard all sported barbershops, usually in the basement area of their stores. These establishments would have three to five chairs in them and they were usually staffed by barbers who could not afford or did not want to go it alone, preferring to work for wages rather than risking all for profit. And so back to the main thrust of this piece ‘The Golden Generation’. In my opinion what is being touted today as traditional is largely false in that, in time gone by the majority of working barbers ran small shops that provided for the needs of their immediate community. Yes there were bigger and far more posh establishments in the cities but they were run for profit and not presented as some sort of showpiece, they were functional. An element that is somewhat overlooked with some of today’s high-end establishments where style seriously outweighs substance. In conclusion when you next hear someone say barbering is going through a renaissance just whisper in his ear “bol**cks”.
Age 16
Until next time, keep snipping and clipping Robert Rix SHR SRSB MCH MCB
Age 20
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THE GOLDEN GENERATION
American barber during Korean war First World War
American soldier uses Japanese flag as an apron
RAF pilot Francis Mellersh getting a haircut and reading Greenmantle by John Buchan. Essex, England, 1942
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Bill Stafford joined the R.A.F. during World War II as U.T. Air Crew. Due to injury he was forced to change position, and having just completed an apprenticeship in barbering prior to volunteering he became the first official barber of the R.A.F.. He spoke to the BBC for their WWII People’s War archive about his time in the service, which saw him posted in France, Belgium, and Germany itself. Here are his recollections of running a barbershop in the town of Bad Eilsen in occupied Germany as the war was coming to a close.
customers, send the staff home, lock up, and, after making sure that the place was spotless, I would sit and wait. I was not frequently kept waiting long. There would be a knock at the famous “Back Door”, which I would unlock, allowing the officer to enter (if the door had been unlocked when they arrived, I would have got a rollicking for neglecting security). Almost without exception the first thing that they did was to take off collar and tie, take off jacket, undo top button of their pants and exclaim, “Ha that’s better!” By this time the service that I was able to offer was as wide ranging as any civilian salon. This meant that more often than not we had quite a session and of course as happens in all barber’s shops, we talked. This made life very, very interesting, and the atmosphere was very relaxed. This was the main reason why the Barber’s Back Door became so well known. Even Monty [Field Marshall Bernard Montgomery, commander of all Allied ground forces during the Normandy landings] passed through on one occasion (secretly of course). Not only V.I.P s used the door, but lots of other people and many objects, of which I must not say anymore. To fully understand the relationships which developed and for me to avoid sounding big headed and so that it won’t seem as if I am romancing, I must explain a little about the nature of hairdressing. In order to be any good as a hairdresser, anyone taking up the profession must learn the skills of conversation, and also work very hard in order to make themselves liked and trusted. Coming from a family of hairdressers these qualities were instilled into me long before I acquired my craftsmanship skills. It makes no difference how good a craftsman you become, if your customers do not like you they will not come back to you. Having worked hard to make themselves popular a hairdresser becomes everything from a father confessor to being the centre of their own little community. This was no less so in the R.A.F. than it was in Civvy Street and also applied no matter what a person’s rank was. I like to think therefore that most of the personnel (including the W.A.A.F) thought of me as a friend. As things got more settled everyone gave most of their efforts towards making a better social life. We started to get both local and U.K leave. We had sports, entertainment, weekly dances, ice skating when the weather was cold enough (we flooded the tennis courts). We even had a Brass Band playing in the band stand in the park across from the entrance to my salon. Life became very pleasant again.”
“Haircuts, as per King’s regulations, were 0000 clippers to the crown of the head, and no longer than 2.5 inches in any other part. It hurts to see tough servicemen cry over such a small thing.”
Bill was in France just four days after the Normandy landings, the only military barber in France. Evidence of the “hellish time” British forces had experience littered Juno beach. They set up camp just a few miles from the front line.
“
We had to ‘dig in’ once again and we had to live in our ‘holes in the ground’, for half of the time that we were there. This was the first time since landing that I was able to practice any hairdressing. Because the tools etc. which by now I had with me, were too much to carry in my kitbag, the joiners had made me a large wooden box which was marked ‘Barber’s Tools’ and it was transported as part of the unit’s equipment. This box became my hairdressing salon, I would set it up under the nearest free apple tree. The box becoming my customers’ chair, with my tools on a towel, on the ground. The officers had a large tent as their ‘Mess’ and I attended to them there, when the light got too bad for me to see to the other ranks outside. The very senior officers usually had mobile trailers as their offices, and I would attend to them in their trailers, when I was sent for. More often than not they were so much in demand that I had to cut their hair as they were on the telephone communicating at top level. The secrets and plans which I overheard whilst doing this were unbelievable, and more than one of these officers threatened to ‘kill me personally’ if I ever breathed a word of what I had heard. Inside a week it became known to other units in the area (including the army), some much closer to the front line than we were. They would send a signal to my C.O. ‘could they borrow the barber for a day?’ At that time I was the only military barber in France. Sometimes they would send their transport for me, but later I was given the use of a liberated jeep and travelled under my own steam. Again I would set up shop under a tree and do as many haircuts as I could before the light failed.
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“
“I was given possession of this salon that had been commandeered from its German owner. I was delighted with the salon. It was fully equipped down to the last detail, both for ladies and gents hairdressing. I would have been proud to have owned it in Civvy Street. This salon was to be mine to occupy for the rest of my time in the R.A.F. and it has many stories to tell. I settled into working in the salon and grew steadily busier, for as in the past whenever I came to a halt for any length of time, other units nearby heard that I was in action and visitors from all around started to come by. This pattern continued along the same lines until V.E. day. Next we had to employ many of the local people in all sorts of mundane jobs (for which they got paid in a small way). They even took on the hairdresser whose salon it was prior to it being commandeered and we also took on a ladies hairdresser to look after the W.A.A.F. personnel. There was not enough accommodation to cope with everyone, so the local people were forced to take many of us into their homes and I was placed with the Superintendant of the local Parks and Gardens. We got on fine after the initial tension was overcome. Herr Voight whose salon it had previously been, seemed to bear no ill will towards me and we were to become very dear friends before very long. As I said earlier the salon was located to the rear and was part of the lower floor of the Furstenhoff Hotel, which was built on a slope. This meant that the ground floor and the front entrance of the hotel were one floor higher, and that the salon’s rear door opened into the hotel basement. The front entrance had a continuous guard on duty and all persons entering or leaving were searched and also booked in and out. These circumstances could only lead to one thing! The salon’s rear door became famously known as “The Barber’s Back Door”. All of the senior officers visited the salon on a regular basis, usually at intervals of about two weeks and expected to have my personal attention. They were the bosses, so there was no alternative. If they came to the salon and left from the front entrance of the H.Q. for security and formality reasons they would have had to come the short distance round the end of the building, by car, with a guard and escort and in full dress. Needless to say they all considered this to be unacceptable. The solution was to use the famous Back Door. Their P.A. usually an officer with the rank of no less than that of flight lieutenant would be sent round to the salon to make an appointment with me. Just before the agreed time I would clear the salon of all other
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THE GOLDEN GENERATION
TAYLOR TAYLOR: A SHEFFIELD INSTITUTION SINCE 1907 Hitler tried to stop them but couldn’t. When the Grand Hotel with their barbershop in it closed, they kept going. After 110 years in the business, we’re asking: Can anything stop the continued success of Taylor Taylor?
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Albert and John Taylor
Cutting hair outside Surrey Street during a powercut in the 70s
TAYLOR TAYLOR TIMELINE 1907 First branch opens on George Street. 1910s – 1940s Hairdressing salon opens in the basement of the Grand Hotel. The Surrey Street barbershop opens and remains active to this very day. George Street salon bombed and completely destroyed during World War II. First suburban salon opens. 1970s The Grand Hotel shuts down and the salon with it. First city centre ladies salon opens and is still running today. 1990s – 2000s The Men’s Room salon opens on Division Street. Taylor Taylor Hairdressing Glossop Road opens. We celebrate 100 years of Taylor Taylor. 2010s The Dronfield Barbershop opens Taylor Taylor Surrey Street has a refit and adds a beauty salon upstairs. The Glossop Road salon is relocated to the city centre and renamed the Division Street Salon. Taylor Taylor Training School is launched. The Men’s Room is renamed Taylor Taylor Barbershop to tie in with the brand. 66 | BarberNV Magazine
Heritage
The story began in 1907. A barbershop operated by A J Taylor opened just across from where the famous Crucible Theatre now stands in Sheffield, but what the shop started would go on to eclipse anything the Crucible has produced in terms of drama. Four generations of Taylor have plied their trade on the shop floor across a number of shops around the city. Nick Taylor is one of the current custodians of what remains a proud family business. Speaking about the original store he says: “I’ve got a lovely picture of the shop on George Street, it was a really nice barbershop. They got a bit of everybody in there – from city gents to people around town. In the shop we’d make our own products and potions, made a lot of wigs, did shaving, everything like that, there were bottles everywhere. The place was full of bits and bobs for the business.” Sadly, the original Taylor Taylor shop is no longer there, after an unfortunate encounter with some German bombs. Nick says: “George Street was hurt badly when Sheffield was hit in The Blitz. That was all demolished, but we got a fantastic letter from the landlord which we have framed in our shop dated 1941 saying they’ll not be charging us anymore rent due to Mr Hitler!” It wasn’t the only bit of bad luck that has befallen the company in the past. Their hairdressing salon in the basement of the Grand Hotel became a magnet for celebrities staying in the city and theatre goers, but the hotel was shut in the late 60s and the salon went with it. Modern Day
Despite these trials and tribulations, Taylor Taylor endured. Today they have four shops across Sheffield, including the Surrey Street salon which has been there since 1927. It’s where Nick’s granddad forged his career with the company, with his great uncle taking care of the ladies side of things. Now it’s the turn of Nick, his brother Paul, and their two cousins, Josh and Dan, to steer
the ship. “The four of us have been able to expand the business quite a bit,” Nick explains. “We’ve done it carefully, very calculated. We’ve not just opened shops for the sake of it. “I think we’ve been… not lucky, we’ve worked extremely hard through the years. From my granddad and my dad we’ve never been afraid to change if we had to. If we didn’t we wouldn’t have lasted. We get competitors opening up every so often, but we’re still here. If they have a new idea we need to adapt to keep ourselves at the forefront. We also have to do that to keep attracting staff and customers as well.” While it’s obvious why staff would be attracted to a historic company like Taylor Taylor, Nick and his family have ensured the survival of the company remains in their own hands by opening a bespoke training school where they can groom their own staff. Nick says: “We’ve been big on training in the last 15 years and bring a lot of our own team through the ranks. A lot of them have moved on to other areas of the business, with quite a few moving into management. We like to think we offer a long-term career for our staff and we’ve got a fantastic record of keeping our team – we have staff who have worked here 15-20 years.” A Link to the Past
Incredibly, one person who they can count among the staff is Nick’s father. The elder statesman of the Taylor clan and still chipping in with his fair share. “He’s 73 now and he still comes down on a Thursday morning and tells a few jokes, messes about and does a few haircuts. He’s met so many characters that have walked through that shop on Surrey Street over the years. “But that generation is gone now and it’s a whole new generation of clients. In a way I miss it a lot. You look back and you could smoke in the shop; you’d be cutting someone’s hair and they’d be smoking a pipe in front of you!
THE GOLDEN GENERATION “Speaking to my dad and the different types of people, different types of personalities he’s dealt with over the years – I’ve learned a lot off him. We like to call people ‘sir’, help them with their coats, have someone at the front meeting people. That’s all come from my dad and granddad.” Recent Success
What makes Taylor Taylor a truly special company isn’t just that they’ve been around for over a century. It’s that a hundred years later they are still at the top of their game. Nick puts it down to one simple thing. “It’s all about education,” he says matter of factly. “American Crew has taught me everything. I remember going down to London for an American Crew course with a guy from Denver as they were looking at starting up a team in the UK. I’m an experienced barber, I’m good with clippers, I was wondering what they could teach me. “It blew me away. I became far more technical, looking at sectioning etc., and how to get across what we want to teach to our staff.” The awards speak for themselves. Nick remains involved with American Crew as an educator to this very day, and he encourages his staff to enter the world renowned American Crew All Star Challenge – this year won by Taylor Taylor’s very own Adam Mir. But Nick and the team haven’t been ones to brag about their success. He says: “I think we’ve probably kept quiet on a lot of stuff like that. I’m not allowed to enter as I’m part of the team, but I knew Adam was capable and he went and did it! As soon as I knew he was going to Brussels for the final I knew he had a very good chance as he’s an excellent hairdresser. It’s important
for the business and keeping our profile at a high level.” The Next 100 Years?
Having survived just about everything that could possibly be thrown at them over the past century. It’s exciting to look at what the future may hold for Taylor Taylor. Will there always be a Taylor safeguarding the company name? Nick laughs: “I have two children, my brother has two children, my cousin has two children, so you never know! It must be in our blood, it’s got to be! “We all get on really well; me and my brothers are best friends, my dad is such a character and the staff love having him around. We try to follow what he’s started. “It’s taken dedication and extreme passion, and we’ve not been afraid to change and adapt anything that needs adapting. We don’t want to get stuck in our ways as as soon as we do that we’ll be down and out. We’ll just keep looking at different areas where we could improve to keep going for the next 15-20 years. “Refitting Surrey Street was a massive decision to make as we didn’t do it to make any more money – we already had a busy barbershop – we did it to keep the business going for the next 20 years.” Clearly Nick still has the passion to take Taylor Taylor to the next level and there’s no chance he’ll be moving on. “I can’t imagine doing anything else,” he says. “I’ve had a fantastic career out of it, I’ve travelled the world with barbering.” But he always returns to Sheffield, and Taylor Taylor. To the next 100 years!
Nick & Paul ’s cutting ha great grandfather ir during a Bl by candlelight itz blacko ut
stating back to 1941, A letter datingshop had been destroyed that the barber WWII bombing in a BarberNV Magazine | 67
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Adam Mir American Crew All-Star Challenge Winner Taylor Taylor Barbershop
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Phil Jarman Few people escape Port Glasgow. Even fewer escape Port Glasgow and prosper. A small town known for its declining shipbuilding trade and little else. Phil Jarman, however, went from growing up in the Port to watching a football team he owned run out at Old Trafford in the FA Cup. And it was all thanks to barbering. Trading up
Like most boys growing up in a deprived area, Phil’s first ambition in life was to become one of the footballers he spent much of his time idolising. It wasn’t to be, but his passion for success and to be the best remained. Visiting his local barbershop he was struck by the sheer number of trophies in the window. “Scottish Champion, British Champion, everything” Phil tells us. “I thought to myself, ‘these guys definitely know what they are doing.’ The main guy said to me ‘If you want to be the best barber, let us train you. We’ve won everything.’ And it was true.” After a few years in his hometown, Phil made the move south. But he never forgot his roots and the people who laid the foundations for his career. He says: “I only made a name for myself because of the training I had – I can’t thank the guys enough. I’m a big believer in getting trained by the right people. “Then I travelled. I picked up my scissors and clippers, took my skills and went on a fact finding tour of the world: Canada, America, south of France, Bermuda. Wherever I went I worked with some amazing people and learned some amazing stuff. “It’s so important to go and learn but it’s a massive learning curve. You learn off some great people and off some bad people, but either way you learn just as much. I’m still learning – I’m in the 30th year of my apprenticeship!” Passion
Phil may have been doing it for three decades now, but the flame inside him burns as brightly now for barbering as it did the first time he
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picked up his scissors. “I love cutting hair,” he says, “and there’s no better buzz than making a person look a million dollars. It’s all about the people. I love the customer service, I love the camaraderie, I love the banter.” Phil doesn’t just help his customers look good, he donates his time once a week to helping other salon owners, giving them pointers on how they can improve their business. “I’d rather put my hand out and help someone up,” he says. “If you’ve got the knowledge to do it, you should help.” While Phil admires some of the creativity being pushed by young barbers on the scene, he implores them not to forget the classic traditional barbering techniques that have been around for decades and will continue to be the trade’s bread and butter. He’s therefore not been one to embrace the social media craze that has enveloped the industry. He says: “A lot of barbers want to become Facebook famous. If you strive to be the very best in your town you will become a local celebrity. You will literally be more popular than the mayor or local football stars. You won’t be able to go anywhere without people being more than glad to see you. “I said to someone the other week that I’d rather have thousands of pounds than thousands of followers. I’ve got two boys that are a big part of my life. I might not be as big a name as I could be because I’m not sticking pictures of my cuts online, I’m sticking pictures of my kids up there instead – I don’t need to prove anything.” Jarmans and Carlo & Co.
Phil’s career speaks for itself. While he spent
his 20s travelling the world, honing his skills, his 30s and 40s have been about building his personal brands. First was his shop Jarmans back in 2003. “Jarmans was way ahead of its time,” he says. “We served beer, we had an Xbox and flat screen TVs. It was all a new concept and I picked up a load of ideas from all the places I’d been. “It went down really well and we opened a second on the high street.” Following on from Jarmans, Phil’s now a partner at Carlo & Co., in Hertfordshire. His success has continued, but it’s no act of fortune. “It’s all about the staff. We aim to have continuous improvement and keep the education up with training nights. We have some really talented guys here. “Our apprentices are second to none. There’s a young guy who’s just turned 17 and he’s cutting in the shop today. You get a lot of pride in seeing people who you’ve taught go on to do great things. The buzz of barbering is to bring someone up to be a bit of a clone of yourself when it comes to cutting hair.” While Phil is effusive in his praise of the staff under him, there’s no doubt that some of his shop’s success comes down to their bold marketing campaigns. A recent one sees Carlo & Co. cars emblazoned with images of barbers, but with the driver’s head fitting perfectly onto the body. After going viral it even gained the attention of business guru Lord Sugar who called it genius. Phil says: “If you can go about marketing with a wee smile on your face and if you can be a bit cheeky it’s great. Everything we do is fun
and quirky. Back in the Jarmans days we used to have a sign saying ‘accident repair specialist’ and that ‘we fix £5 haircuts.’” More than just a few laughs though, at Carlo & Co. they have raised over £40,000 for charity in the past three years through three days of golf. Just another way that barbershops can become part of the local community. Crawley Football Club
The fun and games of his barbering success led to Phil becoming quite the local celeb and it was through his connections that he ended up involved with Crawley Football Club, as Director and Co-Owner, but it was his business acumen that made it a success. A simple Google search still shows the affinity the fans held him in, and Phil enjoyed the experience. He says: “I was meeting millionaire businessmen who would say to me ‘You can’t be a barber and own a football club!’ Well, watch this space! No matter what kind of business you’re in, as long as you have the fundamentals right and have a good team behind you, you can be successful.” 30 years later
Getting the fundamentals right. The basic rule that ensures you have a solid barbering career. But it’s something that Phil feels is fading as the years go by. Working alongside the likes of Adam Sloan at the MHFed and the City & Guilds Barbering Industry Board, Phil is at the forefront of the battle to improve standards across the industry. But while progress has been in certain areas, there’s no doubt it’s proving difficult in others. He explains: “In my humble opinion I do think the industry has changed quite a bit in the last 30 years. For one, apprenticeships are few and
far between and secondly there are so many barbershops opening up in every corner of every town. “I think it’s great that so many people want to get into our industry, but without apprentices going through the right sort of training it is massively diluting our industry skill set.” The training Phil went through in Port Glasgow held him in good stead and he believes every up and coming barber needs the same. “You need to learn from a barber or hairdresser who teaches barbering techniques. There are too many newcomers who are simply not shop ready but hold certificates to say otherwise. “Sadly, there are barber schools and academies who are not even teaching the fundamentals of scissor over comb, clipper over comb, razor cutting, tapering… “This will seriously have a negative knock-on effect for the next 30 years if it’s not addressed properly by the governing bodies.” Phil’s certainly giving his own apprentices the best start possible in the industry and hopefully more people will follow suit. On a personal level for Phil as well, building on his own success is all about expanding on the fundamentals. And he’s in no rush to move forward unless it’s the right opportunity. He says: “A reputation is hard to build and easy to lose. We have two cracking shops and we’d like to open a training academy one day, but we only want to do it if it’s going to be perfect.” We think when the time comes, Phil will get it right.
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MODS VS ROCKERS Hair: John Mulholland @mulhollandbarbering Photography:
Rian McMahon Make-up:
Sarah Jane Johnson Product:
American Crew
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NEW SHOPS
Gentleman Jack’s Barber Shop If you’re expecting a pristine, immaculate, ‘don’t touch the furniture’ style barbershop then Gentleman Jack’s isn’t for you. This is rugged, this is rustic, this is reclaimed furnishings and good times with the lads. In an area populated with your small, traditional barbershops that litter every town centre, Gentleman Jack’s stands out from the crowd in the best way possible. Making it a haven for men was clearly the design brief when Craig McKenna set out to build his dream shop and judging by the pool table, bar area, and motorbike in the corner, it’s safe to say he succeeded. Fans of drink will recognise the name Gentleman Jack as the upmarket version of classic bourbon brand Jack Daniel’s and with six different types of whiskey behind the bar, it’s clear where Gentleman Jack’s got their influence.
Having been opened just two months, they’ve been an instant success. A fourth barber is about to join the team and they have still more room to expand in the spacious shop. Gentleman Jack’s offers a full range of services from hot towel shaves to nose waxes, while the barbers are trained in everything from modern looks to the old school, with one of the barbers having just returned from a course at Schorem.
Unit 51, 4 Balloo Drive Bangor, County Down BT19 7QY
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NEW SHOPS
Guy & Beard And now for something completely different… After watching Grand Designs, Usman Mohammed and Arti Poddar had a light bulb moment. Rather than pay expensive rent for a city centre location, they recycled an old shipping container into a fully functional three chair barbershop.
Taking pride of place at one of Scotland’s busiest shopping centres, intu Braehead, Guy & Beard can count on the huge footfall it provides without having to pay the sky-high cost of a shop front actually in the centre. Walking into Guy & Beard, the first thing that catches your attention is how spacious it is. Despite the limited size of a shipping container, three barbers are able to work with ease – including doing hot towel shaves – while there’s even a small waiting area for the next customers.
The Guy & Beard team have big plans to expand further into other shopping centres around Scotland, and they aren’t stopping there. With 24 hour supermarkets one of their prime targets for expansion. Anywhere with lots of people and the space for a container could soon see a Guy & Beard barbershop popping up. intu Braehead (West Mall Entrance), King’s Inch Road, Glasgow, G51 4BN.
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AT T H E J U N C T I O N Jacks of London celebrated the launch of their brand new Clapham Junction store with a weekend-long party. Located on the bustling St John’s Road, the latest shop in the continually growing Jacks brand was a hive of activity from the Thursday evening right through to Sunday as the team invited the local community to join the festivities with them. Local bands and businesses were involved throughout, as Jacks marked the momentous moment in the only way they know how! An exclusive VIP party on the Thursday set the tone, with live music from duo Just Tom and Pete entertaining the crowd of invited guests, and curious onlookers, with indie versions of everything from the Backstreet Boys to Beyoncé. A free gin bar from The Little Gin Company certainly put everyone in the right spirit, while the beer and champagne flowed liberally. For those looking for a more relaxing evening, The Pamper Company were on hand with free massages to relieve the stress. It was still a working night for the Jacks team however, as they showed their skills with free haircuts and treatments for all in attendance. BarberNV were on hand to test them for ourselves and can attest to their talents! The party continued over the next couple of
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days as the Jacks team continued to open the store for cut-price haircuts and entertainment. It was hard to avoid the yellow-clad Jacks PR team around South London handing out goodie bags and flyers with £5-off your first haircut – a sure fire way to curry favour with your future customers and ensure a steady flow of clientele for any new shop. With more live music from teenage singing star Liberty Grant and DJ Neil Neale, the entertainment never stopped. For those able to get inside the store over the weekend – it was literally queued out of the door for much of the time – they were treated to a stunning, modern barbershop. Deceptively large, it has a comfortable seating area where patrons can wait for their haircut with a complimentary beer or have a shot on the PlayStation. You can even choose your own music! Customers can also pick from a variety of top products including Jacks’ own The True Gent range, plus American Crew and Fudge Professional. Master Barber Paul Morgan leads a stellar line-up of barbers in the shop, with Paul recently participating in the shop’s first big event when it hosted the International Barber Awards UK qualifier with Paul judging. As the Jacks brand continues to grow, we’re set to see another two shops open shortly.
NEW SHOPS
South Central Barbers Catering for the everyman, South Central keeps it simple. Great cuts at a reasonable price, all welcome.
Going for an industrial look but with a touch of 80s and 90s Miami style such as palm trees and neon lights, owner Robin Maksimcyz spent three months preparing his shop in Bristol to the standard he wanted. With the touches of his own personal style bringing it all together, the outcome is an unpretentious and inviting barbershop. South Central isn’t a place to bring the kids, it’s a place where men can be men. Whether it’s the vintage Playboy magazines or the full DJ setup and Playstation, guys are encouraged to come in and hang out – there’s no appointments here because frankly why would you want to be in and out when you can relax with a beer and shoot the shit with the lads? You can even have a pint on draught! A simple menu tells customer what they can get and it’s all about the haircuts, beard trims, and shaves. What South Central do, they do well, so there’s no mucking about with treatments and the like.
They’ve brought the same attitude to the products they use. Rather than have one brand they’re forced to use for everything, Robin and the team pick and choose from the likes of Uppercut and Reuzel depending on what they feel is best for the situation. They are also one of the few British shops to champion Byrd Products from California so they offer their clients something a little bit different. 16 Nelson Street, Bristol, BS1 2LE
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Fighting Your Way To The Top WITH JAMIE WILSON OF BADGUY BRAND Start an apprenticeship. Become a qualified barber. Build-up your reputation. Open your own shop. Hire apprentices. They become qualified barbers. They build-up their reputation. They open their own shop. They hire apprentices… It’s the barbering circle of life. For many barbers it’s the only route through the industry they’ll ever take, the only route they’ll ever even know about. But one barber is doing things a different way, and wants the next generation of the trade to consider their options. Jamie Wilson, a barber with over a decade of experience, has done the traditional route. An established member of popular Glasgow barbershop Urban Funk, he decided that he had more to offer to the industry than just standing behind a chair, and now has his own grooming brand and is a regular behind the scenes at Insane Championship Wrestling events where he ensures the performers are looking slick before entering the ring.
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Badguy Brand Having become bored of the stale and unoriginal men’s products available, Jamie looked into creating his own. It’s something many barbers consider but few take the leap. “First I looked into being a rep for another company,” Jamie explained to us, “but it just didn’t seem cost effective and felt like I’d be making profit for someone else rather than me. Instead I started researching how to make recipes myself.” A few months of experimentation later and Jamie was on his way to creating the Badguy Brand range of everything from beard and post-shave oils to shower gels and moisturising balms. It’s easier than ever now to market your products to potential customers online, and with a steady supply of clients at Urban Funk trusting their barber’s opinion, Jamie was able to steadily grow Badguy Brand. However, he found another unique method of promotion. ICW A fan of wrestling his whole life, with the Badguy name coming from a quote from a legendary wrestler, becoming the backstage barber for ICW events was a perfect fit for Jamie. He said: “A few of the lads would come in and get their hair cut prior to shows and just as a joke between
me and one of the boys because they were always rushing to get seen at the last minute I said, ‘it’s a shame I just don’t go to the show do it there.’ There was a pause and he said, ‘Why don’t you?’” The owner of ICW, Mark Dallas, was keen to bring him in. “He knows what it’s like backstage,” said Jamie. “Everyone is wanting to look good on stage.” What that means for their resident barber is arriving a few hours before doors open, working through as many of the performers as he can before it starts, and then checking the running order to make sure each wrestler is done before their turn in the ring. A high pressure environment but it has its benefits for Jamie and for Badguy. Each of the wrestlers will post on social media about Jamie doing their hair and telling their many thousands of followers to check out his brand. It’s been a helpful boost to sales, as well as getting the Badguy name out there. Forging your own path It’s an unorthodox route through the barbering world, and while he supplements it with his regular work at Urban Funk, Jamie is getting his name out there and increasing his chances of getting more exciting work, whether it’s through taking Badguy mainstream or even moving up to working at WWE events! So take a chance, ask for opportunities to take your barbering to the next level, and maybe you could turn it into your true dream job.
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Step-by-step guide 80 | BarberNV Magazine
Reuzel have teamed Barber Club Owner to give you a step create a long
up with The Heartbreak and Barber, Wez Jones, by step guide on how to trim pomp with taper.
Grooming Tonic Creates a long-lasting but natural feeling hold. Perfect for blow-drying and all types of thermal styling, grooming tonic is ideal when volume or texture is desired. • formulated for thermal styling • ideal for volume and lift • wet look, or brushed through for a natural appearance • for all hair types Dispense Reuzel Grooming Tonic into the palm of the hand, rub hands together and apply to damp hair. Comb through for even distribution and proceed to style. Reactivate by wetting hair with our hair tonic or water. AVAILABLE FORMATS: 350ML RSP: £14.99
Hair Tonic An oil free formula that keeps hair in place all day. Unlike heavier formulas REUZEL HAIR TONIC won’t weigh the hair down and restores a healthy natural looking shine. Our tonic instantly creates a manageable well-groomed appearance. • for all hair types • non-greasy formula • weightless but keeps hair in place all day • excellent for scalp and neck massages • perfect for wetting the hair during a haircut service Apply Reuzel Hair Tonic and massage vigorously to stimulate and cleanse the scalp (in the summer we like to use it cool from the refrigerator). Use between work and play to revitalize your hairstyle and freshen your appearance. AVAILABLE FORMATS: 350ML RSP: £14.99
Reuzel Pink Pomade Reuzel Grease Pomade in the pink can is perfect for the man who carries a comb and knows how to use it. • Heavy/Strong Hold and as strong as a gel • Medium shine • Wax and oil based formula • Controls even the thickest most unruly hair • Keeps hair in place all day • Traditional pomme fragrance with a hint of salsa AVAILABLE FORMATS: 1.3oz, 4oz, 12oz RSP: £8.49, £14.99, £35.99
Step One Use the Reuzel Hair Tonic to cleanse the hair. This will allow the hair to move freely to find how the hair sits best. This will also break down previous applications of pomade, making it easier to manage. If the hair is clean and limp, use the Reuzel Grooming Tonic for added grit and texture, making it easier to section and cut.
Step Two Squeeze some of the Hair Tonic into a water bottle with a spray nozzle. This will keep your client’s hair fresh and clean throughout the cut. It also provides a fragrance which customers love.
Step Three Once you are happy with the basic shape you have created, use the Reuzel Grooming Tonic to create your blow dry. Pour a small amount into your palm and apply through the roots, working to the ends. This will allow you to gain grit and foundation throughout the blow dry.
Step Four
Once you have blow-dried to the required shape, you will be able to see how the cut will look with product. This is the time to finish the edges and last stage of the cut. For this style, I enjoy using Reuzel Pink as this is the strongest of the oil based pomades and it allows me to have shape and height whilst taking care of wispy and loose hairs. I work from sides to back to front, working the product to the root. I then use my pick comb to work the shape. Once you are happy with the shape and style, you can use other tools such as fine-tooth brushes to create added texture. This is how I use Reuzel on a daily basis.
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showcase
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CONNOR EVANS Styling & Photography: Lucie Johnson
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DAVIE WALKER Photography: Thomas Graham @ Digitalpict Photography
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@spukthebarber
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NATALIA MOLENDA Photography: Blythe Majors Make-up:
Claire Tough
MICHAEL HOLM Photography: Blythe Majors Make-up:
Claire Tough
James Beaumont
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Photography Felix Northover
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Tag @Barbe rNVmag to featur azine e your wo rk! @barber.josh.o.p
@nathbradburyhair @manuel_the_barber77
@pmorganhair
@jarredsbarbers
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@patman_barber @tylacutshair
Showcase @zana_thebarber @acutabovesparta @nickleehair
@corneliucrihan @corneliucrihan
@jamesjay_hair
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Aesthetics
Dr Nestor Demosthenous Secrets of good skin
As more and more men are increasingly looking for better skincare options, ZO Skin Health offers a tailored package with clinically proven results Long seen as a female-dominated environment, male attitudes to skin health and bodycare have undergone a seismic shift in recent years. So much so, that the demand for men’s grooming products is now a growth industry.
Words: Dr Nestor
The times they are a changin’ It may once have been that all blokes required was a shower gel and deodorant (the shower gel doubling as shampoo), but that is a thing of the past. It was 2013 - the first year that men spent more money on male-specific toiletries than on shaving products - that is now recognised as a turning point. The rise of metrosexual man, combined with the development of good-quality, high-functioning products, an awareness of the need for sun protection, and a wider understanding that looking after yourself and fighting the ageing process is just as acceptable for men as it is for women, have all contributed to the growth industry of men’s grooming products. You may not be the kind of bloke who enjoys a trip to a spa, but that doesn’t mean you don’t appreciate the benefits of anti-ageing skincare and good-quality sun protection. Feeling good about the way you look is as much about selfconfidence as anything else, it is about making the most of yourself and getting the most out of life. Making it personal Although men and women have certain differences when it comes to skin - the most obvious being male facial hair - the basic approach to caring for skin is the same, while both sexes are equally likely to come up against skin concerns and issues at some point in their lives. These days, there are any number of products aimed at men, but understanding what works and why is key to finding a routine that suits your skin, allowing it to look as healthy as it possibly can. As a member of the ZO Skin Health Academy and a UK trainer for this institution, the way skin looks and functions is a key part of the work my colleague, Dr Lauren Jamieson-Smylie, and I undertake in my Dundas Street Clinic in Edinburgh. Dr Zein Obagi is the physician behind the comprehensive range of ZO Skin Health products that support and maintain healthy skin, bridging the gap between therapeutic treatments and daily skincare. The products are only available from an accredited and approved professional clinic, where staff have completed the ZO training course, and comprise skincare programmes that are created for each individual. What is healthy skin? Healthy skin should be smooth, with good
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elasticity, and an even colour and tone. It should also be well hydrated and free of problems, such as acne and rosacea. The starting point to getting your best-ever skin is a consultation and assessment with a trained ZO Skin Health doctor or therapist. This entails a private, oneto-one consultation, which allow you to discuss any concerns you have in confidence. The ZO Skin Health products use the most advanced technology to transfer highly active ingredients which reawaken skin cells deep in the dermis, the layer of skin which sits beneath the protective outer epidermis. It is one of the most technically advanced professional skincare ranges currently available to assist in treating skin disease and helping you look younger than your years. ZO Skin Health is used to address the main areas of anti-ageing and to treat a range of worrying skin conditions including: • Acne • Inflammation • Pigmentation • Rosacea • Sun Damage It is clear that men are growing increasingly discerning when it comes to looking after their skin and are looking for effective products. But it is important to look past the claims of skincare brands that treat only the surface of the skin.
The difference with the ZO Skin Health system is that it works logically with the natural physiology of the skin. Back to basics If you are looking to make the most of your skin, the ZO system will take you through all of the relevant steps including cleansing, exfoliating, controlling oil, preventing signs of ageing, and protecting in the sun. Starting with the basics, ZO Skin Health offers a choice of three cleansers that have been created to suit specific skin types. The Ossential Instant Pore Refiner is a lightweight serum that is clinically proven to minimise the appearance of pores, which can be an issue on male skin that has a tendency to have a rougher texture with larger, more visible pores. The Offects Exfoliating Cleanser is well suited for normal to oily skin, a unique cleanser and exfoliant combination that targets excess oil without drying skin out, while the dual-action Offects Hydrating Cleanser acts both as a cleanser and moisturiser for normal to dry skin. Cleansing skin at the end of the day removes dirt, oil, and skin cells, as well as ridding your skin of the bacteria and pollutants that it has been exposed to and prepares it to better absorb any further treatments, including moisturisers to hydrate and renew skin. Using a cleanser is the most important first step in our skincare regime as it
Aesthetics helps to open the skin channels, allowing the other products to get to where they are meant to be. Benefits of a good routine Getting into a good skincare routine will carry benefits down the years. ZO offers Daily Skincare Programmes, starting with Phase I, which is generally for the 17-25-year-old age range to help strengthen and maintain healthy looking skin. Phase II is an anti-ageing programme, generally for ages 26-44, which is designed to help reduce the appearance of the early signs of ageing, to improve and strengthen the skin’s appearance and protect against future damage. Phase III is the most aggressive anti-ageing programme, generally for ages 45 plus, and targets deeper wrinkles, age spots, sun damage, and thinning skin. Products contain potent formulas including enzymes, hydrator, and antioxidants, plus a high concentration of retinol, which works to mitigate the effects of environmental and chronological skin ageing.
Dr Nestor Demosthenous is based between his Medical Cosmetic Centre in Edinburgh and the PHI Clinic on Harley Street. To find out more and book a consultation, please visit www.drnestor.co.uk.
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ZO products are only available from an accredited and approved professional clinic, where staff have completed the ZO training course.
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Because these programmes are medical-grade skincare, they are only available following consultation with a trained practitioner. Contact the Medical Cosmetic Centre in Edinburgh for further information on ZO Skin Health and to book a consultation. The result is a tailored skincare package unique to each man’s individual skin requirements.
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BarberNV Magazine | 95
RISING STAR 96 | BarberNV Magazine
Liam kenny The 16-Year-Old is Already a Barbering Force to be Reckoned With
The children of successful people usually split in their reaction to their dad’s professional life: either run as far possible into another line or be inspired by his work and follow in his footsteps. 16-year-old Liam Kenny made the choice much younger than most, and the fact that I met up with him doing platform work at Barber Connect ‘17 tells you which side he’s come down on. Liam is the son of high-profile Andis educator Baldy, the barber, instructor and owner of three Baldy’s barber shops around Buckinghamshire. “I was 12, sweeping up in the shop, things like that, wasn’t the best,” Liam recalls of his first exposure to barbering. “When you’re 12, you don’t really want to watch and learn. You
want to be out doing things.” That all changed one fateful Saturday morning, a day Liam the Sweeper began morphing into Liam the Barber. “I’m just cleaning the shop as usual and we had a staff member said, ‘I need a trim.’ All the staff are busy so they’re like, ‘No, no we can’t do it.’ I just spoke up and said, ‘I’ll give it a go.’ “Obviously, I was expecting them to say no, but soon enough, I was, ‘Yes! I’m actually going to do this.’ He told me what to do and I got on with it. It came out good. It was a skin fade. Two on top.” Oh, it was more than that. 12-year-old Liam had just performed his first haircut with an Andis fade, the UK gold thing, a surgical blade I estimate no more than 25 percent of
barbers can use correctly, that is, without slicing a bit of skin from their customer’s head. But it fit Liam like a kid glove from day one. “Until about a year ago that’s the only clipper I used,” he says matter of factly. “I didn’t even know about the whole bevel blade/ surgical blade thing. I just used it because it was absolutely gold, every time. “Eventually Dad noticed and goes, ‘That’s a flat blade. You need to start using an all-around clipper.’ So I started using the bevel blade and it was different, but it does help.” That first cut was the pivotal moment. “At that point I was like, ‘Yeah, I want to be a barber.’ As soon as I did it, that motivated me. It was, ‘This is what I want to do.’” But at that moment, the now 16-year old with 18,000 Instagram followers and a youth artist team membership with Sid Sottung, was back to sweeping floors. “It’s hard to get models for a 12-year-old kid,” he remembers. Back to the boring stuff. Liam caught a break when school let him have Thursdays off to work at a shop called Illuminate in Milton Keynes. “They let me bring in friends from school to get practice. So one day Dad was like, ‘Let’s do a couple of cuts in the shop,’ and got me on the head, cutting the block.” Liam was surprised shortly thereafter when Baldy announced: ‘We’re gonna put you on the shop floor.’ “At that stage, I’m like ‘Oh, crap! This is the real thing!’ But it was amazing. I loved it.” He got through all the “firsts” unscathed, such as “my first longhaired guy.” “He sat in my chair and he was like, ‘Can you do it?’ I was not comfortable with long hair but obviously I am not going to be, ‘No, man, I can’t do it. “I said, ‘Yeah I’m going to do this,’ but I was thinking, ‘I’ve seen people do it.’ It went well. I was like, ‘All right!’ I’ll just give anything to do it. “Then Jim - I’m his apprentice – he said, ‘Look, they’re good quality haircuts. You can just be, ‘Who’s next?’ From that point, I’ve just carried on cutting every Saturday, saying ‘Who’s next?’” Liam’s refreshingly modest, and I’d caught him being modest again. He brings more to barbering than spending Saturdays saying, “Who’s next?” He’s started reaching out to other young people interested in the craft, and helping them help each other.
“I want to find kids in my situation: young, around my age, 15 to 18, the up-and-coming barbers with good skills,” he says. “I noticed a few on social media. There’s Arichman Perez, who’s Kieron the Barber’s apprentice. There’s Matty O’Brien, Ryan Cullen’s apprentice, and then we got Amir Stapleton . They are all banging barbers so I’m, ‘All right, let’s do something with this.’ “I messaged them about this group. They were like, ‘Yeah, I’m down!’ I set up a page called Next Gen Barbers or N.G.B., started shouting it out, and that’s starting to blow up.” “We’re just showcasing each other’s work at the moment and then, when we meet up at the shows, we’re going to do some work and see where it can take us.” Speaking of shows, as well as cutting at the British Master Barbers event and having an upcomingguest spot for Andis at Salon International, Liam was showcasing his work at Barber Connect 17 in affiliation with Sid Sottung Academy on behalf of Lock, Stock and Barrel. Those are incredible connections for anyone, let alone a teen still in school. I asked him how it came about. “Sid’s youth artistic team are starting to be put together, and so he contacted Baldy, and Dad was like, ‘I can’t do it,’ because he is already in with other companies. So Sid was like, ‘Who else you got?’ He put me and Tom Pipkin forward.” “We tried out at Barber UK, I did my first cut in a show and it went well. He asked me back for Barber Connect so yeah, I love cutting at shows. It’s what I want to do.” To that group of young people who might be feeling the tug of a barbering career, Liam has excellent thoughts: “If you like it, watch videos, go in shops, keep on learning,” he says. “Social media can help you so much! Keep on putting your work out there every time you do something new. My social media’s blown up recently and that’s helped me meet people. At the shows, people go, ‘Yo, Liam!’ I didn’t know who they are, but I’m like, ‘Yo!’ We start talking, and that networking is so good for you. So use social media. That can help your look.” And he remains very open. “Anyone can DM me” through Instagram @TheLiamKenny Still in school and still learning, I was especially curious about what Liam sees ahead. “I’ve got to get my NVQ at college because I am still not qualified,” he said firmly. “In the long run, I’ve always said my dream is to not work in a barber shop. I want to travel, I want to be teaching. I don’t want to be stuck in the same shop. But, I know it is going to take time.” With his talent, his drive and his skill at reaching out and building new relationships, I suspect it won’t take as much time as Liam might think! I valued Liam’s time and thank him for sitting down with me. I love bringing you into the lives of other barbers and I love the feedback I get from you. I’m looking forward to the next edition! Until then, happy barbering!
BarberNV Magazine | 97
Sam Wall
AMERICAN CREW ELITE TEAM
Sam understands the gift that having skill with a pair of scissors or clippers can give you. Having seen how you can travel the world with little more than your tools, Sam has now been published in magazines and journals all across the globe. With front covers of multiple hair publications, including this one, under his belt, Sam has reached the peak of the industry and his work at Hidden Heights Creative Studio, where he works alongside hair and make-up artists, helps to create the photoshoots of clients’ dreams. Working behind the scenes at both London Fashion Week and London Men’s Fashion Week, Sam has acquired a level of talent in both men and women’s hair that makes him the number one port of call for stylists looking to further their skills in either discipline. He’s as at home with a skin fade as he is with a stylish bob, and with a monthly column in a fashion
magazine, he knows how to combine it with the perfect look. Few barbers get invited to join the American Crew Elite Team, but Sam is one of them. Travelling around the country he brings his students out of their comfort zone, teaching them new techniques and fine-tuning their skills. His recent education day alongside the Outlaw Barber Collective at the Matthew Watt Hair Salon was another rousing success, as Sam taught the watching students a range of advanced cutting skills, with the key aspect of how to apply the right technique to the right hair texture to get the correct result. When Hairdressing Meets Barbering Advanced Techniques Combined Sam has an upcoming tour of Scotland that will see him bring his skills to salons around the country. If you wish to get involved and take your abilities to the next level, contact 0141 212 5525 for more information.
working with
TRADIUM DENMARK “As a Barbering Academy Tradium must rate as one of the best in Europe. Their use of natural materials and keen attention to detail has produced a stunning environment for REM’s iconic Emperor Barber Chair to reside in.” Trevor Lingard, Commercial Manager REM
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01282 619977
Hair Trends
He’s a dedicated follower of fashion While women’s hairdressing has always been very fashion led, it could be argued the same hasn’t always been true of barbers. Historically, men haven’t looked to the catwalk to take inspiration for their next haircut, although undoubtedly it did always filter through eventually. Nowadays, however, the huge increase in the male grooming sector has proven that men are more willing to look after themselves, and more likely to take inspiration from previously unorthodox sources. So we asked three of the top salon chains in the UK to tell us their tips for the top men’s hair trends of the next six months.
Chris Merrick, Salon Manager, Blue Tit Clapton BANG BANG
Fringes have been creeping on to our radar for a few seasons, but at the A/W17 London Collection shows we really saw them evolve in to a standout trend. They seemed to come in all variations, but my favourites were those showcased at Barbour, Wooyoungmi, Christopher Shannon and Dries Van Noten: very short, very blunt textured fringes that are surprisingly easy to replicate. If you’re trying this look, ask your barber for a textured scissor cut, with the top front section left longer, so that it can be pulled forward. If you’re going to try out a blunt fringe, a dry texturizing spray and a moulding cream should be in your arsenal of products, for adding texture, movement and definition. This style is great for showing off angular face shapes and model bone structure, but if your face is very rounded and you don’t want to draw attention to it, I’d avoid this style altogether.
BED HEAD
Tousled, just-got-out-of-bed hair was spotted at Yohji Yamamoto, Vivienne Westwood, and Etro. Ideal for the man who likes to washand-go (or avoid washing altogether) this style is relatively easy and works best on second-day hair, but don’t fall in to the trap of thinking this look requires no effort whatsoever: to keep this style looking intentionally messy you’ll need to blow-dry hair in different directions and you’ll have to play around with product to achieve just the right level of texture and dishevelment, without adding too much grease.
Steve Rowbottom, Director, Westrow BANG TIDY
Fringes have been steadily gaining popularity over the last few seasons, but at the A/W17 shows we really saw a true trend emerge, with bangs ranging from short blunt and textured to long and thick. Ultra-thick eyebrow-grazing bangs were sported at Damir Doma, Dries Van Noten and Dior Homme, while blunt-cut fringes dominated at Christopher Shannon and Wooyoungmi. If you want to combine two of the new season’s big trends – fringes and Nineties’ styles – and have the self-confidence to pull it off, then follow Fendi’s lead and opt for a long centre-parted fringe: aka ‘curtain bangs’. Take note: wallflowers, and those who wore this look the first time round should probably approach with caution.
SHAG PILE
Layered, shoulder-skimming, shaggy styles were sported at Acne Studios, Prada and Alexander McQueen this season. Imagine a Seventies’ shag crossed with Game Of Thrones’ Kit Harington and you’re pretty much there. Length is vital, so you’ll need to grow your hair to at least shoulder-length, and ask your hairdresser for internal layers, which add movement and volume, but retain a heavy feel. If your hair is fine and lacks volume, use a texturizing spray or salt spray to give it some oomph, whereas thicker locks can be styled with mousse and scrunch-dried from damp.
Sean J McElhill, Co-Director, S J Forbes THE LAYER CAKE
“If you want to combine two of the new season’s big trends – fringes and Nineties’ styles – and have the selfconfidence to pull it off, then follow Fendi’s lead and opt for a long centreparted fringe: aka ‘curtain bangs’.”
Tousled, just-got-out-of-bed hair was spotted at Yohji Yamamoto, Vivienne Westwood and Etro. The difference between this season’s bedhead style and the mussed up Nineties’ grunge style that will also dominate over the next few months is that this style is full of bodyboosting layers, whereas the Nineties’ look tends to feature one length all over. Once your layers are in place you’ll work this style better on day-old hair, so avoid washing every day. Blast with the hairdryer, tipping the head upside down and pointing the nozzle in different directions to work against the hair’s natural direction and add volume. Be careful not to go overboard with the products – a little mousse on damp hair before styling should add all the body and ‘guts’ this style needs, without adding too much texture or definition. You want the finished look to be on the polished side of messy, rather than on the scruffy side.
PARTING WAYS
Admittedly this isn’t the most wearable of trends, but it was so inescapable at the Men’s Fashion Week A/W17 shows, that it requires a mention. Centre-parted fringes – also known as curtain bangs – were the standout style of the Fendi show, while at Dior Homme and Off White, hair was worn slightly shorter, but with fringes parted distinctively down the middle. Meanwhile, at the Damir Doma, Etro, and N°21 shows, hair was worn longer, and grungier, but parted just as severely down the middle. It’s a look that is very Nineties – an era we saw appearing in many guises, at many of the shows – but it really isn’t for everyone: approach with gusto if you have an angular or oval face shape, but proceed with caution if your face is slightly more rotund.
TrainingNV.
Oct/november 2017 Training Dates 6th August 1 Day
Date
Duration Course
Fundamentals
Menspire Academy
Company/School
St. Albans
£205
017278 35612
22nd Oct
1 Day
Traditional Barbering
GBBA
Hull
£180.00
01752 898191
22nd Oct
1 Day
Shave Day
GBBA
Plymouth/Cardiff £180.00
01752 898191
23rd Oct
9 Weeks
Diploma in Barbering (NVQ2)
London School of Barbering
London
£3,780.00
0207 404 0988
25th Oct
2 Days
Wet Shaving Accredited
London School of Barbering
London
£550.00
0207 404 0988
29th Oct
1 Day
Traditional Barbering
GBBA
Exeter & Edin
£180.00
01752 898191
29th Oct
1 Day
Academics
Menspire Academy
Herforshire
£250.00
017278 35612
30th Oct
1 Week
Clipper Fading Fundamentals London School of Barbering
London
£940.00
0207 404 0988
5th Nov
1 Day
Traditional Barbering
GBBA
Belfast/Liverpool £180.00
01752 898191
6th Nov
1 Day
One Day Shaving Course
Joseph Lanzante Training Acad
Accrington
£195.00
01254 427575
6th Nov
1 Week
Clipper Fading Fundamentals London School of Barbering
London
£940.00
0207 404 0988
12th Nov
1 Day
Shave Day
Manchester
£180
01752 898191
12th Nov
1 Day
Advance Barber - Blades & Fades GBBA
Northampton
£180
01252 898191
12th Nov
1 Day
Traditional Barbering
GBBA
Poole
£180.00
01752 898191
12th Nov
1 Day
Traditional Barbering
GBBA
Webmely
£180.00
01752 898191
13th Nov
9 Weeks
Diploma in Barbering (NVQ2)
London School of Barbering
London
£3,780.00
0207 404 0988
13th Nov
2 Days
Wet Shaving Accredited
London School of Barbering
London
£550.00
0207 404 0988
19th Nov
1 Day
Shave Day
GBBA
Andover
£180.00
01752 898191
19th Nov
1 Day
Advance Barber - Blades & Fades GBBA
Gateshead
£180.00
01752 898191
19th Nov
1 Day
Traditional Barbering
Plymouth
£180.00
01752 898191
26th Nov
1 Day
Advance Barber - Blades & Fades GBBA
Crawley
£180.00
01752 898191
GBBA
GBBA
Learn the true art of maLe grooming Professional barbering and hairdressing courses. By Joseph Lanzante - the leading barbering expert. › Traditional barbering one day clipper cutting course
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PLUS NVQ level 2 & 3 in ladies and mens hairdressing. To Book - Tel: 01254 427575 · 07984 797726 or visit www.josephlanzante.co.uk 102 | BarberNV Magazine
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