LoveFlorence: Luglio / Agosto 2013

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l veFlorence tuscan coast inferno’s Florence Events & exhibitions Restaurants, Nightlife & Wellness

july/aug

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welcome Tuscan Coast

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Exhibitions & events

From the Fleur de Lis to the David 10 The Renaissance Dream 14 Various Exhibition 18 Pop Music 36

itinerary

Dan Brown’s infernal tour LoveFlorence Year #11 – Issue #4 July/August 2013 Free magazine for international students also published online at www.loveflorence.it Editorial office: info@megareview.it Advertising inquiries: commerciale@megareview.it Tel. +39.055.412199 The Publisher is pleased to acknowledge the authorship and author’s rights of any photos whose source it has not been possible to trace. While every care has been taken to ensure accuracy, the publisher cannot be held responsible for any errors or changes in the information provided.

Published by MARKED srl Tel +39.055.412199 2

Folklore

Palio di Siena The feast of Saint Lawrence

Shopping

Shop ‘till You Drop

gourmet

Arnold Coffee Gelaterie Reviews Flavours of Tuscany Pizza Pizza Pizza!

nightlife

Nightlife Reviews

Wellness

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48 50 54 56

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Wellness Reviews

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CIty MAP

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welcome

tuscan coast A glorious day at the seaside

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lorence, luckily for those living or staying here, is situated conveniently close to the coast. The nearest beaches are in fact a little over an hour’s drive away and easily reachable for a day trip or a weekend by the sea. There are four main areas of coast, plus of course the Tuscan Archipelago, all of them boasting splendid beaches and unpolluted waters. Here is some advice on how and where to go. • Versilia is the area lying closest to Florence and an excellent choice for a day out at the seaside. It stretches along a strip of about 20 kms of sandy coastline set between the Tyrrhenian Sea and the Apuan Alps, where the splendid white Carrara marble, of Michelangelo fame, is quarried.

The beaches all have plenty of facilities to suit all tastes, varying from exclusive lidos to more lively areas, with sun shades, sunbeds, beach games and entertainment, including plenty of nightspots.

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• Viareggio, famous for its Carnival, boasts a long promenade, elegant and historic cafès and many fine early 20th century buildings in Liberty style. Torre del Lago nearby hosts the celebrated Puccini open-air opera festival in July and August. Pietrasanta, further north, is popular among sculptors, some world famous, many of whom reside here, thanks to the local marble and bronze work. Lido di Camaiore is famous for its nightlife, while elegant Forte dei Marmi offers large beaches, fine shops and art galleries.

• The Pisan coastline offers several beaches and dunes from Marina di Pisa to Tirrenia, much of it backed by splendid pinewoods.

• The Etruscan Coast stretches from Livorno southwards to Piombino and is rich in beautiful scenery and Etruscan remains. Livorno, the main town and one of the most important ports in Italy, also boasts picturesque areas, fine views and the Giovanni Fattori Museum.

Castiglioncello, further south, became fashionable after being discovered by the ‘Macchiaioli’ school in the late 19th century. Apart from its clean sea, fine beaches and pinewoods, the town offers excellent tourist services and plenty of entertainment. The area between Rosignano and Vada is famous for the

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zling white sands, though fewer tourist facilities. Quercianella, Marina di Cecina, Marina di Bibbona, Donoratico, San Vincenzo and Baratti, with its fascinating Etruscan necropolis of Populonia and archaeological park, are all delightful and well organised seaside resorts along this coast. Piombino, like Livorno, is a large port with frequent ferry services to the Tuscan Archipelago. • Further south, the long and multicoloured Maremma coastline is bathed by a transparent sea (among the most unpolluted in Italy), sunny beaches, protected by lush pine forests, isolated coves and rocky cliffs. The main towns include Follonica, Castiglione della Pescaia, Punta Ala and Grosseto, with the nearby Nature Park of the Maremma. It is perfect for people who love the sea and nature but also want the availability of restaurants, bathing establishments and sport. Beautiful Monte Argentario, mystical Orbetello and its lagoon, the golden 8

beaches of the Feniglia, Giannella, Capalbio and Ansedonia, the fishing villages of Talamone, Santo Stefano and Porto Ercole are all delightful.

largest island of the group and the more turistic it can be reached from Piombino or Santo Stefano.

• The Tuscan Archipelago contains the islands of Gorgona, Capraia, Elba, Pianosa, Montecristo, Giglio, and Giannutri; all of which are protected as part of the Tuscan Archipelago National Park. The islands’ proximity to several major cities has made them a favourite tourist location. History and literature has ensured that most people are familiar with the islands of Elba and Montecristo.

The Island of Elba famous for being the first stay in the Napoleonic exhile is the

how to get there

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Florence is connected with Pisa, Livorno and Viareggio with regular train services. www.trenitalia.com Lazzi and Sita run regular coach services to most destinations. www.lazzi.it or www.sitabus.it By car take the A11 (Firenze-Mare) motorway for Versilia, the Florence-Livorno for the Etruscan Coast and then the Maremma or the Florence-Siena-Grosseto for the Maremma.

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Exhibitions

from the fleur de lis to th Civic Art from the Middle Ages to the Renaissance more at: < www.unannoadarte.it >

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From the Fleur da lis to the David Galleria dellâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Accademia Via Ricasoli, 1 055.294883 10

n display, works of art originally commissioned to decorate the public buildings of Florence which housed the powers running the city: the halls of the various Arti, or guilds, Palazzo Vecchio (once Palazzo dei Priori) and the city gates and walls.

This exhibition offers visitors a new key to understand the works of art themselves, by underscoring the importance of images in the propaganda and communication strategy of the groups which ruled the city in the era of the Commune and the Republic, before the rise of the Medici family changed the city for good from both a political and an aesthetic standpoint.

The dividing line between sacred and secular is often hard to detect. For instance, in the Palazzo dei Priori, one was just as likely to encounter depic-

he david

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tions of the mythological hero Hercules (on the city’s official seal) as one was of the biblical King David, whose statue

by Michelangelo (now in the Galleria dell’Accademia) is recognized to be one of the main symbols of Florence. A selection of rare Renaissance drawings and a fresco showing the Expulsion of the Duke of Athens (from the former Stinche prison, but now in Palazzo Vecchio) illustrate the so-called Pittura Infamante, or Defamatory Painting, which consisted in commissioning murals in public places to depict, often in gruesome detail, either events or individuals viewed with hostility by the city of Florence. Images boding well, on the other hand, were set up in the marketplace, Donatello’s statue of Abundance famously perching atop a column in the Mercato Vecchio. While the original has now been lost, we are familiar with the statue from numerous copies produced over the centuries, the most famous today is probably the one located in Piazza della Repubblica.

Also, the decoration of the city gates and the heraldry adorning the city walls provided the city fathers with another opportunity to celebrate Florence and its allies. The exhibition devotes special attention to the Arti, the driving force behind the economic boom which Florence enjoyed in the era of the Commune and the true political power in the city at the time. Membership of one of the guilds was a precondition for playing an active role in the city’s political life. For the first time in two centuries, visitors will be able to admire in a single venue the entire collection of panels depicting the guilds’ patron saints, originally adorned the pillars of Orsanmichele, in the area of Ponte Vecchio, the “bridge of jewellers.”

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Exhibitions

The Renaissance Dream Rêver à la Renaissance more at: < www.unannoadarte.it >

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he involving and fascinating topic of dreaming is of particular significance both in ancient mythology and in the Renaissance cultural setting, as demonstrated by its widespread occurrence in the visual arts and, in particular, in works of religious nature, or focused in the rediscovery of ancient myths.

The revelation of a wholly interior world governed by different rules - ranging from the eccentric to the unlikely and the unreal - set artists a real challenge, to which they rose in a myriad different yet equally fascinating ways.

The exhibition, soon to be exported to the Musée du Luxembourg of Paris, displays works that reveal the manifestation of Dream’s different worlds, places where daily life is transfigured and its erotic dimension revealed.

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For the very first time Raphael’s Vision of a Knight, from the National Gallery of London, and Correggio’s Venus and Cupid with a Satyr, from the Louvre, are shown in Florence, joined by Heironymus Bosch’s Hermit Saints, from the Doge’s Palace in Venice.

The dream scenes here displayed include nightmares, inhabited by the Devil as Separator, the great Transgressor and bringer of bad dreams.

He appears when day gives up its sovereignty and the darker side of things appear.

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renaissance dream

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FIRENZE: Galleria Palatina Palazzo Pitti - Piazza de’ Pitti, 1 055.294883 May 21 - September 15, 2013

The exhibition is divided into several sections: Night, represented in all its complex symbology and containing many sculptures and paintings based on Michelangelo’s Night, which he sculpted in the New Sacristy for Julius de’ Medici’s funerary monument; The Transmigration of Soul, with works related to sleep; Visions from the Afterlife, a section that looks at dreams in the biblical and Christian tradition, with graphic and pictorial examples from the 15th and 16th centuries; Life Is a Dream, based on the exceptional iconographic success of a drawing by Michelangelo, the Dream or the Vanity of human life, as demonstrated by the large number of versions and copies that it has inspired; The Prince’s dreams, section devoted to Francesco de’ Medici and his special relationship with dreams; Enigmatic Dreams and Night-

Paris: Luxembourg MUSEUM Oct 7, 2013 - Jan 26, 2014

marish Visions, displaying disconcerting works that are difficult to interpret; Dawn, considered during the Renaissance as the space-time of true dreams and - the final section - Awakening, an expression of the paradigmatic and complementary cyclical

nature of time.

Click www.unannoadarte.it/eng to learn more about the Application for Android or Mac that will allow the most curious to get the most of the exhibit.

Until September 15th

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The Grand Prince Ferdinando de’ Medici More at: < www.unannoadarte.it >

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ferdinando de’ medici Uffizi Gallery Piazza degli Uffizi, 6 055.294883

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o mark the 300th anniversary of the death of Grand Prince Ferdinando de’ Medici (1663-1713), the Galleria degli Uffizi is planning to devote a celebratory exhibition to this key figure who was one of the most important collectors and patrons of the arts in the entire history of the Medici Grand Dukes of Tuscany. The son of Cosimo III and of Marguerite-Louise d’Orléans, Ferdinando nurtured two overriding interests, in the theatre and music and in the figurative arts, from a very early age. The exhibition sets out to convey the complexity of his interests and the innovative nature of his approach which drew the leading artists of the era (musicians, instrumentalists, painters and sculptors) to Florence between the end of the 17th century and the first decade of the 18th.

Until November 23rd

antonio canova beauty & Memory More at: < www.casabuonarroti.it >

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antonio canova beauty & Memory casa buonarroti Via Ghibellina, 70 055.241752

asa Buonarroti, once residence of Michelangelo and today museum, opens an exhibition entirely dedicated to one of the main European neoclassical sculptors: Antonio Canova.His beautiful monochrome temperas and models will be available to the public together with a collection of albums and sketchbooks borrowed from the Museum of Bassano del Grappa (Veneto). ‘Beauty and ‘Memory’: the two cornerstones of the Arts during Italian pre-Romanticism and Purism. Beauty is magnifically conveyed by the plaster of Canova’s Venus Italica, whose final version is in the Palatine Gallery, while Memory is very well signified by the series of sketches that created (1806-10) the funerary monument of Vittorio Alfieri, father of the Italian tragedy, still located in the Basilica of Santa Croce.

From July 3rd

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Paths of Wonder More at: < www.polomuseale.firenze.it >

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ith the opening of Palazzo Strozzi’s exhibit dedicated to the early Renaissance, the Bargello National Museum shows some of its important works, recently restored and all dating around the 14th and 15th centuries. Partners of the initiative, the Opificio delle Pietre Dure, art restoration leader, and “Friends of Florence”, non-profit organization for the enhancement of the local cultural heritage. Panels and videos in the rooms explain to the public all the phases of the restorations and the collection, that includes a French-Flemish tapestry from the Carrand Collection; French ivory Mirror Cases; jewellery and enamels and a high relief in polychrome terracotta by Dello Delli, portraying the Madonna and Child Enthroned with Angels.

Until August 18th

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Restored Works of the Bargello Museum on Display Museo del Bargello Via Proconsolo, 4 - 055.294883

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Springtime of the Renaissance More at: < www.palazzostrozzi.org >

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he exhibition proposes to illustrate, in theme-based sections, the origin of what is still known today as the “miracle” of the Renaissance in Florence, doing so principally through masterpieces of sculpture, the branch of figurative art in which that new season first saw the light of day. Thus, arranged around the city’s absolute symbol – the wooden model of Brunelleschi’s Cupola for Santa Maria del Fiore – the exhibition offers a retrospective of sculpture that was also to have a crucial impact on the development of the other figurative arts.

Until August 18th

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Springtime of the renaissance palazzo strozzi Piazza Strozzi, 1 - 055.2645155

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AN IDEA OF BEAUTY More at: < www.strozzina.org >

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n Idea of Beauty sets out to explore the work of eight contemporary international artists – Vanessa Beecroft, Chiara Camoni, Andreas Gefeller, Alicja Kwade, Jean-Luc Mylayne, Isabel Rocamora, Anri Sala and Wilhelm Sasnal – and will encourage visitors to reconsider the concept of beauty and to question not only the ‘need’ for it but also its function, value and purpose. Visitors to the exhibition will be confronted with works of art soliciting their physical and emotional participation. Through their work the artists seek to highlight the subjectivity with which a person views art, triggering individual responses that can become a tool for forging new connections with other people and with the world at large. On the one hand, they address and revisit such traditional artistic techniques and genres as the themes of landscape and the human figure while, on the other, it is almost as though they are attempting to listen to nature, capturing its moments and its fragments.

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An Idea of Beauty CCCS STROZZINA PALAZZO STROZZI Piazza Strozzi, 1 055.2645155

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Until July 28th

Diaphanous Passions More at: < www.unannoadarte.it >

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rom the mid-16th century the European courts had a great interest in ivory sculptures. Ferdinando I de ‘Medici (1549-1609) started the family collection, enriched in the years to compete only with the courts of Vienna and Dresden. First in the world, Florence opens an exhibition with over one hundred and fifty ivory items coming from the main Florentine and foreign museums, and from private collections, to cover a period that goes ​​from the 15th century to the Baroque. An entire section is for the ivories from Goa (India) and from the Portuguese and Spanish Eastern colonies.

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Diaphanous Passions Baroque Ivories from the Courts of Europe Silver Museum Palazzo Pitti Piazza de’ Pitti, 1 055.2760427

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Samurai! Japanese armor from the Stibbert collection More at: < www.museostibbert.it >

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eventy Japanese masterpieces from the collection of Frederick Stibbert exposed in an exciting exhibition that takes visitors into the exotic world of the samurai, brave warriors but also refined patrons of weapons and armor. Stibbert was among the first collectors to take an interest in the mid-nineteenth century, with works from the land of the rising sun, and his collection is still surprised by the richness and importance of the works which preserves.

Until November 3rd

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Samurai!

Japanese armor from the Stibbert collection Museo Stibbert Via Federigo Stibbert, 26 055.475520

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in the splendor of the Medici More at: < www.polomuseale.firenze.it >

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in the splendor of the Medici medici chapel museum P.zza Madonna Aldobrandini, 1 055.2388651

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his exhibition will follow the life of Giovanni, the second son of Lorenzo the Magnificent, from his birth in Florence in 1475 until March 9th 1513, when he was elected Pope, and then his brief return to the city of his birth in 1515. Works by Botticelli, Andrea Sansovino, Granacci, Ghirlandaio and Perugino will illustrate this part of the route in a section dedicated to the education of the future pope. The years of Leo’s papacy were celebrated as a new “golden age” in which the capital of Christendom could bring the requirements of the classical world back to life again thanks to the work of artists and humanists. These were the years that gave life to the great building works in Rome, among them the Basilica of St. Peters, which Raphael followed up by producing his wonderful paintings.

Until October 6th

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Roberto Benigni reads Dante More at: < www.tuttodante.it >

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benigni reads dante piazza santa croce July 21, 23, 24, 26, 27, 30, 31 August 2, 3, 5, 6 28

talian Academy Award actor/director Roberto Benigni returns to his Florence (he is honorary citizen) to perform Dante Alighieri, the Supreme Poet and Father of the Italian language.

His successful show, called TuttoDante (all about Dante), has already toured the world, from Athens to London, Paris, Madrid and New York.

For the second year in the City, the performance will combine Dante’s Medieval poetry and Benigni’s typical satire about the present situation of Italian politics. Twelve nights, from July 20 to August 6, for twelve cantos, that the actor will recite and comment in front of thousands of people - last season closed with an audience of more than 70,000 listeners.

For ticket sales see www.ticketone.it

itinerary

Dan Brown’s infernal tour A city tour guided by the latest novel of the American writer

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equel to “The Da Vinci Code” and “Angels and Demons,” American writer Dan Brown’s “Inferno” digs into the mysteries of Dante’s Florence. This time the investigations of professor Robert Langdon start after he wakes up in Florence with no memory of the previous days and with the U.S. government close on his heels. Let’s see which are Dan Brown’s novel five ‘hot spots’: The Boboli Gardens Here Robert and his friend doctor Sienna Brooks hide from the U.S. agents.

The royal gardens designed by Tribolo extend over a large stretch of hilly land full of grottos, fountains and statues.

They started a trend that laid the basis for all the royal gardens to come in Europe, including Versailles.

Robert and Sienna run through the stone Amphitheatre, carried out in the Seventeenth century by architects Giulio and Alfonso Parigi, they pass Neptune’s pond and end up in Buontalenti’s Grotto (or Large Grotto), place commissioned by Francesco I de’ Medici, but named after its designer.

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r of Florence

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The Vasari Corridor From Boboli Gardens, the two fugitives cross the Vasari Corridor, which is well worth visiting. It connects the Uffizi Gallery with the Pitti Palace and hosts a rich collection of self-portraits by past and present artists. Built by Vasari in 1565 on commission by Cosimo deâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Medici, it passes above the Ponte Vecchio, the oldest bridge in the city, famous for the many jewelry shops. The same passage served as escape route to the Resistance during World War II! Guided tours through this special path can be booked by small groups through the Uffizi ticket office.

Robert and his friend cross the Uffizi Gallery and reach Palazzo Vecchio, looking for help.

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Palazzo Vecchio The two enter the Salone dei Cinquecento (Hall of the Five Hundred), once seat of the City Council, in Palazzo Vecchio.

Over the centuries the building was remodelled several times, as house of the Priori delle Arti, of the Signoria and also ducal residence, but it is still the most important civil building in the city. Construction, to plans by Arnolfo di Cambio, was begun in 1299. The Salone dei Cinquecento used to be the study of Francesco I, but it is not the only room to visit. Unfortunately, Robert and Sienna have to rush out of the palace to look for a copy of Danteâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Commedia, so they miss the beautiful room of the Elements and the Sala dei Gigli, do not make the same mistake!

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Casa di Dante e Chiesa di Beatrice Looking for the book to solve an enigma, Robert and Sienna arrive to the House and Museum of Dante, unluckily closed.

It is in front of the nearby Church of Beatrice that they can use a tourist’s iPhone to surf the web and search for the poem. What Brown does not tell us is that the House is only a reconstruction. Built in the early 20th century, it contains exhibits illustrating life in Florence at the time of the great poet. The so-called “Church of Beatrice,” is very likely to be the church where Dante married Gemma Donati and also church of Beatrice’s family, whose houses were located in Via del Corso.

The Baptistery Robert and Sienna are led here by the key phrase ‘Paradise 25.’ The green and white marble Baptistery of San Giovanni (1128) is a masterpiece of Florentine architecture, remembered

by Dante in his Commedia as ‘beautiful San Giovanni’. The splendid three bronze doors are only copies of the works by Andrea Pisano and Lorenzo Ghiberti: the originals, recently restored, are preserved in the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo.

After this Florentine tour, you could keep on following Robert and Sienna to Venice, and so the story goes...

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Pop Music Rock Events Florence LUCCA SUMMER FESTIVAL Mark Knopfler, Thirty Seconds to Mars, Bryan Adams, Nick Cave, Neil Young and more July 2013 - Lucca THE EUROPEAN PINK FLOYD SHOW July 4 - Teatro Romano, Fiesole FESTIVAL AU DESERT July 4, 5, 6 - Le Murate, Firenze ROY PACI - The Jungle July 5 - Parco Collodi in S. Benedetto Cascina, Pisa BEADY EYE (LIAM GALLAGHER) July 6 - Piazza Duomo, Pistoia Paul Kalkbrenner July 7, Cittadella del Carnevale, Viareggio (Lucca)

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TOMMY EMMANUEL July 8 - Teatro Romano, Fiesole SKUNK ANANSIE July 16 - Teatro Obihall, Firenze IRENE GRANDI e STEFANO BOLLANI July 19 - Teatro Romano, Fiesole Aug 11 - Teatro Romano, Fiesole ORQUESTA BUENA VISTA SOCIAL CLUB July 19 - Piazza Duomo, Siena Steve Hackett - Genesis Revisited July 23 - Gavorrano (Grosseto) BOBO RONDELLI & Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ORCHESTRINO July 25 - Anfiteatro Le Cascine, Firenze PATTI SMITH July 26 - Prato ANTONY AND THE JOHNSONS FRANCO BATTIATO Aug 31 - Nelson Mandela Forum, Firenze

Other Concerts in Italy Rock in Roma 2013 Ramstein, Arctic Monkeys, Bruce Springsteen, Mark Knopfler, The Smashing Pumpkins, Atoms for Peace, Ska-P, Deep Purple, Neil Young, Sigur Ros, Blur and more July 2013 - Rome DEPECHE MODE July 20 - Rome OLODUM July 20 - Senigallia (Ancona, Marche) Alan Parsons Live Project July 20 - Villafranca di Verona (Verona, Veneto) Grupo Compay Segundo July 29 - Pordenone (Pordenone, FriuliVenezia Giulia) Richie Hawtin Aug 4 - Jesolo (Venice)

BLUE Aug 25 - Taormina (Messina, Sicily) Morricone Sordevolo (Bi), Anfiteatro Giovanni Jul 4 July 4 - Paolo II Aug 22 - Verona, Arena Muse July 6 - Rome, Stadio Olimpico Santana July 5 - Hydrogen Festival of Piazzola sul Brenta (Padua), Anfiteatro Camerini July 26 - Milan, City Sound Ippodromo del Galoppo July 27 - Il Centrale Live of Rome, Foro Italico Sting July 8 - Verona, Arena July 9 - Rome, Foro Italico July 29 - Cattolica (Rimini), Arena della Regina hamlet musical drama Aug 3 - Stia (Arezzo) 37

folklore

Palio di Siena A race back in time

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sk anyone from Siena where they come from, and they will surprise you by mentioning not their country or the city, but the name of their Contrada. In fact, each year newborn babies are baptized into their Contrada on the Contrada’s patron Saint feast and from that moment they will be ‘Contradaioli’ for life. A Contrada is one of the seventeen city districts that in the Middle Ages were originally established as rival military companies. In turn, ten out of the seventeen Sienese contrade compete twice yearly in two bareback horse races called Palio. Literally, the ‘palio’ is the standard which is given as a prize to the winning Contrada.

The Palio race has been held since 1701 (except in wartimes) and is run on July 2nd (Palio della Madonna di Provenzano) and on August 16th (Palio

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palio della madonna di provenzano July 2nd

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dell’Assunta) in the beautiful shell-shaped Piazza del Campo, flanked by red brick Medieval palaces including the elegant Palazzo Pubblico (town hall) with its slim ‘Mangia’ belltower.

The race itself takes place in the early evening and consists of three laps of the square and lasts less that 90 seconds, but the whole city is in a turmoil for the whole of the three days preceding

the event, and of course the winning Contrada keeps celebrating for months thereafter.

Although the races are preceded by an elaborate historic pageant with spectacular flag throwing shows and many costumed characters, you will easily sense that this is not yet another folk display put up for the benefit of tourists, but that it is deeply rooted in the heart and soul

of the city instead. If you plan to see the race you should know that standing places in the middle of the square are free, but that it can get very hot in the middle of a thick crowd under the scorching Italian midsummer sun.

On the other hand seats in the bleachers or on the balconies are very expensive and usually require months of advance booking. But in all truth, you can have as much fun by just watching the trials and maybe select a Contrada and join in their street banquets, tickets for which can usually be purchased on the spot.

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palio dellâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;assunta August 16th

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the feast of Saint Lawrence

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feast of st. lawrence august 10th

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lmost all tourists who come to Florence find themselves sooner or later in the area of San Lorenzo.

Some go there to visit the magnificent Medici Chapels, the Laurentian Library and Brunelleschi’s Basilica, while others prefer to browse around the market with its variagated stalls. August 10th is the Feast of St. Lawrence, the quarter’s feast day, also celebrated throughout Italy as the night of shooting stars and often combined with wine tastings. Don’t miss visiting the area, made more colourful with a Procession of the Florentine Republic, when the city authorities, accompanied by colourful flag bearers and pageantry, offer celebrative candles in the Basilica. Initiatives include guided visits and special openings of the Medici Chapels. In the evening the whole neighbourhood participates in the distribution of the traditional lasagna and water melon in the square, reminiscent of the ancient celebrations of the Guild of Bakers.

shopping

Shop ‘till You Drop Freshly milled Sale Season in Italy

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kay, you have arrived. You are now officially a student abroad and you’re starting to settle in and get a feel for the place. Finding your way to school is no longer such a challenge and you’ve stopped getting your fork out every time someone says ciao. So it must be time to shop for souvenirs and presents for family and friends. Yeah, we know you just got here and aren’t planning to go back for a while anyway, but consider this: Saldi. Sales. It is a now or never situation in Italy. Unlike in the States and elsewhere in the world - where stores almost always have a promotion or two going on - Italy has a set sale season when almost everything goes on sale; but when the sale is over, it’s over baby! No more bargains for six more months, till the end of the next season. There are two sales a year, one in January and the other in July. So you are here just in time to take advantage of the winter offerings. This year the winter sales will officially start on January 5th and the season closes on March 5th although many stores finish their sales earlier because they literally run out of merchandise. Whether you want to buy some new threads to try and look like a native or if you want to even out the euro/dollar exchange rate a little, the sales are a great opportunity to save some money. Almost all types of stores have some items on sale and many clothing stores have absolutely everything on sale. Most stores offer 44

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between twenty and fifty percent off regular prices on a lot of their merchandise.

So whether you are looking for designer fashion or simply need a new t-shirt for the gym, now is the time to get it on sale.

Shopping here is a cultural experience in and of itself. Yes, money still exchanges hands but that is pretty much where the resemblance wears off. If you have had enough culture shock for the moment and want “simple” shopping, then go to a big department store and you will feel pretty much at home. They are open all day long and close around eight. Otherwise, there are a few good rules of thumb to remember if you are going shopping elsewhere. For instance, most smaller stores close for lunch; generally they are open from 9 or 10am to 1pm and then again from 4pm to 7 or 7:30pm. And, no, shopkeepers are not happy to stay if they see you rushing in at 12:59. In most cases they are hungry and want to go home to their pasta. So if they see you eying out their window at 12:56 and you look like an indecisive type they may very well close just a few minutes early because they figure that if you are serious about buying something you’ll come back later, and if not they still had their nice lunch for good measure.The most important thing to remember when you go shopping in Italy is buyer beware. If it’s clothes and shoes you’re looking at, be careful to try them on because sizing can be tricky and 46

often varies from store to store. Also, most stores won’t take sale items back under any circumstances, so make sure that it’s exactly what you want before you fork over the cash. Read the tags carefully because they are loaded with relevant information and you can make sure that you are really buying something on sale.

If the item is more than 30 percent off the original marked price, you may want to double check that it’s something the store normally sells and not some merchandise they have brought in just for the sale, or else something left over from years past.

And while your grandmother may not realize that your brand new Gucci jacket is from 1992, almost everyone else will.

Some stores even raise their prices right before the sale so the reduction looks larger than it actually is, so beware if the original price is not clearly visible.The last thing to remember is that most Italian stores are smaller than their American counterparts and as a result they don’t keep as much merchandise on hand. If you have a common size or want the hottest pair of shoes on the market it is probably a good idea to shop early. If you have an unusual size or you like taking risks you may want to wait a little longer because some stores lower their prices even further as the sale goes on. But if you can’t live without that pair of lime green shoes you might want to snatch them up as soon as you see them. Happy Hunting!

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gourmet

Arnold Coffee The American Coffee Experience

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arnold coffee Via degli Avelli, 8 055.9060399 arnoldcoffee.it 48

he coffeehouse chain Arnold Coffee was born in 2009, and it is the first real American coffee shop opened in Italy, inspired by Starbucks.

The brand mission, The American Coffee Experience means the commitment to offering to everyone the opportunity to taste top quality products in a welcoming and comfortable environment where everyone can relax, chat and surf the Internet, away from the bustle of daily life. Everything is improved by a constant and careful attention to detail and to the guests. Here you will find a wide range of pastries and snacks suitable for every moment of your day, from breakfast, to lunch, or any light meal. You will not resist the temptation of Arnold Coffeeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cup cakes, muffins, donuts and apple pies, a unique taste from the best American tradition; and do not forget the organic beverages or the 100% pure fruit smoothies, or the great choice of tasty, delicious and special drinks with or without coffee, all in large cups starting from 12oz. Arnold opened its first store in Milan in the University area, with the specific aim of offering to young students the possibility to study with their laptops in front of a hot mug. The company has now reached cities such as Genoa, Verona and Florence, Via degli Avelli, while expanding its target from University students to a wider group that daily rewards the coffee shops with the same - if not greater - appreciation and presence. And the firm is still developing...

gelaterie gelateria della passera This delightful gelateria in tiny and characteristic Piazza della Passera serves delicious handmade ice creams that are made only with the freshest ingredients coming directly from local producers. The gelateria offers a select number of flavours, all freshly made every day. Try fior di panna with mint, served with fresh sprigs of mint, the mouth-watering sorbets, the innovative Mojito Ices or the Tine or Mango Ices: are all delicious. The pleasant lady owner takes pride in her ice cream, while offering a friendly service. From November 22nd Gelateria della Passera reopens with new delicious proposals, on a weekly basis you will be able to find flavors that recall the scent of tea and spices. Try the new “Profumi d’oriente” (scent of the East) with fresh ginger, cinnamon, cardamom, saffron and a splash of lemon, which has digestive and antiseptic properties or “Carezze” (caresses) with almond milk, chamomile and honey sweet and velvety just enough to cherish you like a warm blanket in winter. You can enjoy this sumemr’s seasonal tastes: “Strawberry” and the refreshing “Mojito”.

Piazza della Passera Via Toscanella,15r - 055.291882 Open 12pm-12am 50

LA STREGA NOCCIOLA Have you ever felt like Alice in Wonderland? That’s the Strega Nocciola effect! Close to Ponte vecchio, Strega Nocciola Artisan Gelateria it’s a kind of magic: let the taste of Cremarancio-a traditional cream variegated with orange jam-charm you, or let yourself be enchanted by the luxurious scent of the Bergamot gelato. Not mentioning the organic Lavender gelato, a fresh, relaxing experience for all your five senses, or the classic and elegant taste of the Pistachio gelato: it’s the taste of a new, recovered time from the everyday hurry, the fresh taste of a renewed gelato tradition which Strega Nocciola brings every day in to the City’s beating heart. Strega Nocciola turns a premium selection of the finest seasonal ingredients into a unique, handmade ice cream. It’s all about the proper time that delicious ingredients need and the attention to excellence that make a bewitching experience out of a genuine ice cream. That’s the point: it always takes some magic to create good things, especially when it’s about gelato: Strega Nocciola’s gelato is a mix of artisan wisdom and passion for excellence, which will bring you back to the authentic,genuine taste of life’s pleasures.

Ponte Vecchio - Via De’ Bardi 51r - Tel. 055.2382150 Open Every Day 11.30am - 11.30pm 51

gelaterie gelatissimo A secret family recipe and a passion for the spirit of ancient Italy is behind the story of Gelatissimo, a retail chain launched in 2002 operating around the world including Australia, Indonesia, Singapore, Malaysia, the Philippines and now Italy with its trademark stores next to the Ponte Vecchio in Florence. Gelato is of course Gelatissimoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s principle product. Freshness and taste exploration are the keys to the customersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; satisfaction. Each store manufactures gelato on site from premium ingredients supplied from the Sydney premises. With an endless number of combinations, there are plenty of reasons for gelato lovers to return for new taste experiences. Delicious new items are constantly being added to our product range, such as Italian coffee, traditional biscotti and snacks. Gelatissimo signature beverage is affogato-espresso served with a scoop of vanilla gelato. Each international Gelatissimo store recaptures the Florence gelato experience, incorporating Italian music and decor and most importantly freshly made artisan gelato, into an authentic Italian experience.

Present the voucher (on the next page) at the Gelatissimo Store to get one free gelato for each one bought!

Lungarno Acciaiuoli, 6r - 055.218671 www.gelatissimo.com.au 52

53

Flavours of Tuscany osteria santo spiritO

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In the heart of the Oltrarno District where you still can breath the ancient Florence of the craftsmen and the thousands workshop, the Florence of the common people and the markets, you can find Osteria Santo Spirito right at the corner of the most famous square of Santo Spirito, a meeting place for all international gourmands, for florentines in love with their city and foreigners discovering the taste of Tuscany possibly in a cosy atmospehere. Take a lunch or dine at the tables overlooking the enchanting Piazza Santo Spirito (the Osteria has a wonderful dehors one of the most fascinating in the city) or in the colourful rooms inside the Osteria. The menu includes typical and traditional Tuscan platters accompanied by some interesting new variations, you can start with land starters such as wildboar sausages and dry tomatoes and go on with rigatoni santo spirito with dry ricotta cheese and maybe close with a mixed meat grill or you can choose the fish menus with sea products always fresh and tasty. The wines and desserts are excellent.

Piazza Santo Spirito 16r - 055.2382383 www.osteriasantospirito.it Open daily 12-23.30

T

Le Antiche Carrozze (2) Try tasting some of the traditional recipes from the Italian cuisine in this ancient trattoria just off Via Tornabuoni and overlooking Piazza Santa Trinita. The warm and welcoming atmosphere in the recently restructured dining rooms still recall the mid 19th century when this venue was a regular stopping place for carriage drivers.

It is the ideal place to discover the real â&#x20AC;&#x153;Florentine Steakâ&#x20AC;? of genuine Chianina meat and perfectly prepared and cooked, as well as taste many other natural and healthy products, like the olive oil, dressed meats, vegetables and cheeses. The menu is based on the simple recipes typical of the local cuisine, but the Chef makes use of his wide experience to fully enhance the freshness and quality of the ingredients. All these traditional flavours in Tuscan cooking are accompanied by excellent pizzas prepared with care and experience. The pizzas boast a truly authentic flavour as they are cooked in a woodburning oven. The best wine to drink with your meal, either selecting it from the important Tuscan labels or from the excellent selection of the best Italian wines.

Piazza Santa Trinita corner with Borgo Santi Apostoli 055.2658156 - www.leantichecarrozze.it Open daily 11.00-23.00.

he legendary and extremely simple food of Tuscany is the result of centuries of poverty and therefore has been based on salads, legumes, cereals and meat since the Middle Ages. Olive oil is almost always used rather than lard, and vegetable soups rather than pasta.

All the food is bread related and of course the main drink is wine that lends colour to every glass. Although the modern trends in food have practically swept away many regional culinary traditions, Tuscany can still boast of an incredible historic continuity in traditional cooking and therefore has managed to preserve dishes that the present research into genuine foods is once more bringing back into the limelight, to the joy of all tastebuds, including those of its foreign visitors.

We should remember that most typical Tuscan dishes are linked to particular areas or the various seasons of the year.

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Pizza Pizza Pizza!

Mr. Pizza

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MR. PIZZA in Florence is a universe of delicious appetizers and offers its customers a wide choice of pizza cut, takeaway or home delivery. It ‘s open from morning until late at night to enjoy at any time of day the taste of true Neapolitan tradition. In the true Neapolitan pizza the cheese is soft and pan is thin but high-sided. The peculiarities of Neapolitan pizza is due largely to its pulp to be produced with a bread dough - that is completely devoid of fat - soft and elastic, stretched by hand in the form of a disc without touching the edges that will form in a typical kitchen “ledge “of 1 or 2 cm while the dough at the center will be high about 3 mm. A fast passage in a very hot oven must leave the pizza moist and soft, not overcooked. But at MR PIZZA, not only you can eat pizza awaits but also a large variety of salads, turnovers, croquettes, pretzels, washed down with a good selection of craft beers and more. EVERYTHING TO GO & DELIVERY Via Pietrapiana 82r - 055.3860311 Piazza del Duomo 5r - 055.213682 www.pizzerianapoletanamrpizza-firenze.com

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ostaria dei centopoveri (2) Ostaria dei Centopoveri is located in the historic centre of Florence, in via del Palazzuolo just steps away from Santa Maria Novella. Take a romantic walk through the ancient streets of the Santa Maria Novella neighborhood to discover this delicious restaurant and pizzeria. Its name is very old and comes from time when the nobility offered one hundred poor people a free meal on the last day of Carnival at the Church of San Francesco. Today the Ostariaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s menu is typically Tuscan, like the interior with its terracotta floors and wood-panelled ceilings, and the white ceramic tiles covering the counter. Ribollita and pappa al pomodoro top the menu, together with ricotta and spinach tortelli with Boletus mushrooms, sliced or grilled steaks or, alternatively, really fresh fish. The Restaurant has doubled itself adding a new area for Pizzeria, a most modern environment where dark wooden panels elegantly counteract to the white and orange elements of the room: from the chairs designed by Philippe Stark to the plain minimal curtains and the informal table clothes and coloured glasses.

The wine list Regional and Italian wines.

izzas come in thousands of variations and are certainly not just round pieces of flat dough with a little tomato and cheese slapped on top! If you prefer your pizza simple make sure that the ingredients are really fresh and that the mozzarella cheese is of the buffalo variety, by far the best!

A good pizza should also be baked in a proper wood burning oven to acquire just that perfect aroma and flavour desired by the true connoisseur! Pizzas can come thick and puffy, or thin and crunchy, and should overflow with flavoursome toppings.

Easily digested, they are a complete meal and a popular excuse for a gettogether among friends and, eaten in pleasant surroundings they taste even better.

Via del Palazzuolo corner with Via del Porcellana 055.218846 - www.centopoveri.it Open daily 12.00-15.00 & 19.00-24.00 57

Nightlife pitta m’ingolli

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The colorful and lively scene of Piazza Santo Spirito has just enriched with a new venue: a rustic style, charming bistrot, reminiscent of some French Bar au Vin. Freshly inaugurated, PITTA M’INGOLLI, which is Lucchese dialect for “may devil swallow you”, is just a few steps from the famous Osteria Santo Spirito, also owned by Chiara Tassi.

Open from morning to late night, starts with the breakfast, but stands out for a wide variety of sandwiches with cold cuts (ham, mortadella, finocchiona) cheese (goat cheese and sun-dried tomatoes, gorgonzola, honey and nuts) to fish specialities (butter and anchovies, salmon and arugula) combined with various sauces (tuna, tartare, mushroom sauce, walnuts, truffle) focaccia, baguette, various drinks, milkshakes, centrifugal fresh fruit, coffee for only 80 cents. and appetizers for 5 euro. Interior is coated in warm wood, with high stools and newspapers.

Piazza S. Spirito, 17r 055.264256 Open daily 6.30am - 2.00am

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A

salamanca

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With an entrance sunken in slightly from the street-front windows and doors, Salamanca draws you in almost seductively with its muted and rustic reds, cursive lettering above the door and calm dim lighting. Upon entering, a beautiful and engaging staff allows you to be guided wherever you choose to enjoy this intriguing bar and restaurant. You may enjoy a meal in one of the three dining rooms, including a more intimately themed one in the back. Or for a more casual evening, quaint two seater tables off to the right, a variety of tables in the front room to the left, a tapas bar in the back, or a traditional bar in the very front. With a full menu from tapas to meat meals, wonderful fish dishes to salads, amazingly decadent desserts and delicious drinks, the food alone entices any restaurant goer. With its atmosphere, its upbeat American and Spanish mix of music, wonderful staff, entrancing ambience, leaving Salamanca seems like not an option.

Via Ghibellina, 80r 055.2345452 - www.salamanca.it Open Daily 5.30pm - 2.30am

peritif comes from the Latin word â&#x20AC;&#x153;aperireâ&#x20AC;?, to open. You should remember that traditionally, Italians do not drink in order to get drunk: rather, alcohol fulfils a complementary role in the dining process. An aperitif is meant to cleanse your palate and whet your appetite for the upcoming meal. The typically French and Italian rite of aperitif offers a taste of la bonne vie for those who enjoy nothing more than raising a glass in the company of friends. Many bars in Florence now offer a sophisticated choice of finger foods and snacks to accompany your aperitif.

Arrive between 7pm and 9pm, buy yourself a drink and you can expect to stock up for free on a good spread of complimentary nibbles. Even the music mix is also specially chosen with smooth, soothing sounds providing a suitable backdrop for a relaxed chat among friends.

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Wellness palestra ricciardi (1) Founded 50 years ago, Palestra Ricciardi is the biggest gym in the Florence downtown, known as the coolest gym in town combining experienced staff with the most modern equipment. You can improve your physique in a pleasant and dynamic environment spread over a surface of 1600 sqm surrounding a lovely internal garden.

The space devoted to your training is composed of several areas which include: the cardio fitness area, the free weights area, rooms for isotonic equipment, two rooms for classes and the spinning room. After a hard training session you can choose to relax in a sauna or with a massage session. The gym offers 81 hours of classes weekly: Total Body Workout, Step, Spinning, Easy Dance, Corpo Libero, Yoga, Hip Hop, Power Pump, Body Sculpt, Pilates, Fit Box, Stretching, Gag, Soft Gymnastic, Capoeira. Personalised fitness programmes and fully qualified instructors.

Special membership fees for students.

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Borgo Pinti, 75 055.2478444 www.palestraricciardi.it

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re you a step machine addict or dreaming of perfect muscles?

Or have you just arrived in town and need to find a gym (possibly within walking distance) in the city centre?

There are an infinite number of gymnasiums.

It is worth hunting up one with the facilities you require nearest to your digs. Many also do courses in yoga or the martial arts pilates to FIt box or Capoeria (a brazilian way between a martial art and a dancing) or have a gymnasium attached. And obviously most of these gyms offer special relaxing areas with sauna, massages or spa. Florence also boasts many dance and ballet schools, though of course you have to select the type of dance course you prefer. Start looking for your ideal gym from our tips.

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