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Benvenuti a Firenze
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itineraries Uffizi Gallery
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LoveFlorence Year #11 – Issue #1 January/February 2013 Free magazine for international students also published online at www.loveflorence.it Editorial office: info@megareview.it Advertising inquiries: commerciale@megareview.it Tel. +39.055.412199 The Publisher is pleased to acknowledge the authorship and author’s rights of any photos whose source it has not been possible to trace. While every care has been taken to ensure accuracy, the publisher cannot be held responsible for any errors or changes in the information provided.
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The Thirties 20 Guy Bourdin 24 The Dalì Universe 26 The Uffizi Foundry 27 Francis Bacon 28 Rembrandt through Morandi’s eyes 30 Rucellai Chapel 32
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benvenuti a Firenze
A Florentine Facebook
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s I stepped out of the Florence Airport it finally hit me. I was no longer in the United States; I was in Italia. I had known I was studying abroad in the fall semester of 2009 eight months prior to my arrival, yet it only hit me when I arrived at night in a country where I knew no one and did not speak the native language. I think I was terrified. However, the moment of panic passed as I realized how lucky I was to be in such a beautiful city; so I took a taxi to my apartment, met my wonderful roommates, and began my amazing time abroad in Florence. Here is my personal Facebook on Florence with some useful hints for just arrived students.
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Firenze a.k.a. Florence
Region: ..................... Tuscany Population: . . Roughly 400.000 Patron Saint: .St. John the Baptist Date of Settlement: ....... 59 BC
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Activities: Explore the birthplace of the Renaissance, Stare at Michelangelo’s David, Gaze upon Botticelli’s masterpieces, See the Medici influence present throughout the city, Be awed by the impressive Duomo, Wander around the city and imagine its Medieval past. Interests: The Renaissance, Providing amazing art and culture to the world, Being beautiful.
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music: Odoardo Spadaro, Riccardo Marasco, Caterina Bueno. Movies: Amici Miei, Tea with Mussolini, Room with a View, Hannibal, Benvenuti in Casa Gori. Books:
Dante’s Divine Comedy, Boccaccio’s Decameron, E.M. Forster’s Room With A View, Vasco Pratolini’s Metello, Carlo Lorenzini’s Pinocchio.
Quotes:
“A Tuscan peasant is born with an embodied sense of beauty which enables him to unconsciously develop from, and also preserve the untouched magnificence surrounding him.” Roberto Benigni
FRIENDS:
Dante, Leon Battista Alberti, Brunelleschi, Michelangelo, Lorenzo Ghiberti, Donatello, Leonardo, Machiavelli, Florence Nightingale, Roberto Benigni, Andrea Bocelli
Museums: Uffizi Gallery, Museo del Bargello, Academy Gallery
Piazzale Michelangelo, Piazza della Signoria, Piazza del Duomo, Piazza Santa Croce
Churches: Il Duomo (also called Santa Maria del Fiore), Santa Maria Novella, Santa Maria del Carmine, Santa Croce, San Lorenzo, San Miniato
Piazzas:
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EVENTS
PItti uomo Pitti Immagine: Fashion in Florence
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Pitti Uomo once again confirms the level of its proposals, thanks to the presence of over 1020 brand names, plus another 70 collections for women presented at Pitti W at the Dogana. The greatest fashion houses choose Pitti Uomo and Florence to present their collections and special projects in order to consolidate worldwide strategies at the beginning of the season. Pitti Uomo is becoming increasingly international, and this is confirmed by the figures, with an important rise in the number and quality of applications received for January – also from strong men’s fashion markets such as Great Britain, France, Germany, Japan and the United States. In fact, foreign vendors, from about 30 different countries, account for nearly 40% of our exhibitors. And then there are the buyers: the last winter edition of Pitti Uomo welcomed more than 30,000 visitors, 21,000 of whom were buyers from the world’s most important large and small retailers. The next edition of Pitti Uomo will stage as usual many special events at the Fortezza, the ideal venue for meeting the world’s top buyers and members of the international press. Scouting, research and keen focus on product quality are what make Pitti Uomo, and Florence, the event and the place that the world’s greatest names in fashion choose to show their new collections and special projects and to lau8
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nch their global strategies at the start of the season. There is also a growing demand among our exhibitors to stage special events at the Fortezza – events that capture the attention of both buyers and the press. Pitti Bookswear is the key theme for the Pitti Immagine winter fairs. “And that’s because reading will always be fashionable”, says Agostino Poletto, Deputy General Manager of Pitti Immagine. “And because the world of fashion does not feed only on magazines, but it presents concepts and images that also have their roots in books (and that are often transposed into books). In January, books with all their physicality will be the leading players at Pitti Uomo and the other Pitti Immagine fairs. Walls of books, cascades of books will be painted here and there, or their spines will become piecemeal puzzle images”. January 8th-11th
PITTI UOMO 83° Fortezza da BAsso Viale Strozzi, 1
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Pitti W More at: < www.pittimmagine.it >
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pitti W 11° DOgana Via Valfonda
itti W no. 11, the Pitti Immagine trade fair-event dedicated to special projects for women’s fashions will be held in Florence concurrently with Pitti Uomo 83. The Dogana, adjacent to the Fortezza da Basso will showcase an exclusive preview of collections for the 2013-14 fall/winter season. The special guest at this edition of Pitti W will be Maison Kitsuné, the eclectic Parisian brand headed by the Franco-Japanese duo Gildas Loaëc and Masaya Kuroki. With the Guest Nation project, Pitti Immagine devotes a special space to the up-and-coming names on the international creative and business scenes. This edition’s Guest Nation will be Denmark which has become one of the most interesting places when it comes to cutting edge fashion. January 8th-11th
Pitti Bimbo More at: < www.pittimmagine.it >
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itti Bimbo rules as the only trade fair in the world that presents a complete overview of children’s fashions combining it with an extraordinary platform for presenting the new lifestyle trends for kids. From the classic-elegant look of the big names at Pitti Bimbo, to the sportswear at Sport Generation, from the creativity of the brands in the New View and EcoEthic sections to urban couture at Super Street, plus design items and textiles for the young set, up to the avant-garde collections at Apartment – it’s all here at Pitti Bimbo and shown via the myriad links connecting contemporary art, food & design and fashion. The core offering of Pitti Bimbo – at the Main Pavilion – is enriched with items that are part of the young set’s lifestyle: jewelry, fragrances, eyewear, furnishing items, bags and travel accessories. January 17th-19th
PITTI BIMBO 76° Fortezza da BAsso Viale Strozzi, 1
Pitti Filati & Vintage Collection More at: < www.pittimmagine.it >
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itti Immagine Filati is the main international event for the knitting yarn industry, it will be held at the Fortezza da Basso in Florence from 23rd to 25th January 2013. A research lab and an observatory on global lifestyle trends, Pitti Filati presents world scale excellence in yarns to an audience of buyers and designers and for the major fashion brands who come to Florence looking for new creative inputs. This edition of Pitti Filati will be featuring previews of knitting yarn collections for the 2013 spring/ summer season. The experimental lab this year will explore the relationship between people and the rural environment through FUTURURAL, the theme-title for this edition. Pitti Filati will also host Vintage Selection inside the Stazione Leopolda a research lab that looks to the past, a huge archive that designers dip into to find inspiration for their new collections. January 23rd-25th
PITTI FILATI 72° Fortezza da BAsso Viale Strozzi, 1 VINTAGE COLLECTION 21° STAZIONE LEOPOLDA Porta a Prato
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itineraries
Uffizi Gallery Florence’s premiere Art Gallery
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UFFIZI GALLERY Loggiato degli Uffizi 055.294883 Open 8,15-18.50 Closed on Mondays.
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he Uffizi Gallery covers an area of about 8.000 square meters and contains one of the most important collections of art of all times, including classical sculpture and paintings on canvas and wood by 13th to 18th century Italian and foreign schools. The Gallery of the Uffizi was also the first museum ever to be opened to the public: in fact the Grand Duke granted permission to visit it on request from the year 1591. Its four centuries of history make the Uffizi Gallery the oldest museum in the world. Cosimo I de’ Medici decided to build the Palace, whose construction was started by Giorgio Vasari in 1560
and later completed by Buontalenti, who designed the famous Tribune, to house the administrative offices (or â&#x20AC;&#x153;uffiziâ&#x20AC;?) of the Government because Palazzo Vecchio, which also overlooks Piazza della Signoria, had become too small to hold them all. However it was his son Francesco I who was responsible for starting to turn the palace into a museum in 1581, when he closed the second floor Gallery with huge windows and arranged part of the grand-ducal collection of classical statues, medals, jewellery, weapons, paintings and scientific instruments here. The Medici were untiring collectors and were forever adding to the Gallery: some of the most important elements to be added to the collection came from the inheritance left by Ferdinando
Above: Sandro Botticelli, The Birth of Venus
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Above from the top: Piero della Francesca, the Dukes of Urbino Titian, the Venus of Urbino Paolo Uccello, The Battle of San Romano Next Page from the top: Giotto, Madonna di Ognissanti Caravaggio, Bacchus
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II’s mother, Vittoria della Rovere (1631), together with the many acquisitions made by Cardinal Leopoldo de’ Medici (16171675), which were to create the basis of the Gallery of Prints and Drawings and the collection of Self-portraits, exhibited today in the Vasari Corridor linking the Uffizi to the royal palace of Pitti. When Gian Gastone, the last Medici Grand Duke, died, his sister Anna Maria Ludovica managed to prevent the artistic patrimony from being scattered with the famous “Family Pact” (1737, and reconfirmed in her will of 1743), which, instead of bequeathing everything to the successors of the House of HapsburgLorraines, left the collections to the city of Florence itself “to be an ornament to the Government, useful to the public and to attract the curiosity of foreigners”. This document proved to be vitally important when the time came to retrieve the art works that had been removed and taken to Paris in Napoleonic times. Altered and rearranged several times over the centuries, according to the cultural tastes of the various periods, the exhibition rooms are now composed of over 45 rooms containing about 1.700 paintings, 300 sculptures, 46 tapestries and 14 pieces of furniture and/or ceramics. The main collection includes great works by Giotto, Masaccio, Filippo Lippi, Botticelli, da Vinci, Bellini, Giorgione, Titian, Michelangelo, Raphael, and just
about every great Italian artist through the 18th century. The core of the collection is from the Medici court. The collection has remained remarkably intact with few changes over the centuries. In the early works, you can see the Byzantine influence in the use of line to suggest drapery and the heavy use of gold leaf. The artists of Siena soon begin to change this style by suggesting three-dimensional architecture even before the discovery of formal perspective. Soon the revolutionary Giotto appears on the scene depicting rounded solid figures that seem almost like Doric columns. The international Gothic style soon exerts its influence. The spatial depth is pushed back and the scenes crowded with multitudes of figures in colorful costumes. In spite of this, the overall trend in Italian art is towards the austere. The artists give the human figure a more sculptural appearance and the space is simplified and made more logical. Around 1424, the discovery of mathematical perspective causes yet another revolution in style as artists for more and more realistic representations of figures in space. The 15th century ushers in the early Renaissance. Artists have new theories and improved materials. There is a great deal of experimentation with various stylistic elements. Two of the masterpieces of the Uffizi come from this period. The Birth of Venus and the Primavera by Botticelli make us marvel at the artistic mind that could con17
Below: Sandro Botticelli, Detail from Primavera (Allegory of Spring)
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ceive such fantastic compositions. The paintings are unbelievably rich in detail and must be seen in person to be appreciated. There are many examples of High Renaissance works in the collection. Among them is the Annunciation by Leonardo da VincI and the Holy Family by Michelangelo. These paintings are not only a synthesis of the styles and techniques that came before; they glow with the inspiration of a golden age. There are also excellent examples of Venetian art from the period, including two important paintings by Titian, The Venus of Urbino and Flora. Soon there was a movement towards the elongated figures of the Mannerist style as in the works of Tintoretto. And towards the end of the 16th century Caravaggio had a profound impact on the art world with his realism and intense use of shadow and light. These changes ushered in the Baroque period. The Uffizi collection includes many masters of this period from Northern Europe, including Van Dyck, Rubens and Rembrandt. Finally, the collection contains a number of 18th century works that show the artistic trend towards genre scenes and courtly life.
The New Uffizi In 2012 the Uffizi Gallery and its artistic itineraries have been extended to offer its visitors 17 new rooms located on the first floor and painted on either intense blue or red. This first step of the “New Uffizi” project expanded the visible collections and gave a better distribution of the museum’s spaces. The eight new Blue rooms are dedicated to foreign painters from Flanders, Holland, France and Spain from the sixteenth to the eighteenth centuries. The nine Red ones to Italian High Renaissance paintings by masters such as del Sarto, Fiorentino, Pontormo and Bronzino. In addition, the beautiful octagonal Tribune in the West wing was finally reopened after two years of restoration and rearrangement. The Tribuna was built in 1581 by Bernardo Buontalenti, as a place for Grand Duke Francesco I to display his treasures. Octagonal in shape, it has a dome crowned with a lantern and is lit by windows on the upper walls. Its chief glory is the precious mother-of-pearl decoration against a bright blue ground on the drum of the dome, and the dome itself covered with 6000 shells against a crimson background, all of which have been spectacularly restored on this occasion. The adjoining Stanzino delle Matematiche has now been opened and renovated with its emerald green walls and “grotteschi” on the ceiling.
Above: The main corridor of the Uffizi
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Exhibitions
The Thirties The Arts in Italy beyond Fascism more at: < www.palazzostrozzi.org >
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n 1930s Italy, during the Fascist era, a very vigorous artistic battle was waged, involving every style and trend, from Classicism to Futurism, from Expressionism to Abstraction, and from monumental art to salon painting. The scene was enriched and complicated by the emergence of design and mass communication—posters, wireless, films—which espoused many ideas from the “fine” arts and conveyed them to a broad public. It was a complex and vital time of experimentation, open to the outside world, the prelude to our modern era. The exhibition will present this decade through a selection of high-quality works, which at the same time offer a historically informed narrative of the time, fully conveying its aesthetic, cul-
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tural and ideological atmosphere. The exhibited materials will include art works, photographs, models. The exhibition opens with a focus on the influential artistic centres, each characterised by a particular style or taste: the Milan group with Sironi and Carrà; Florence, with Soffici, Rosai, Lega and Viani; Bologna, Roma, Turin and Trieste. A whole section is dedicated to the Futurists and abstract avant garde younger painters and sculptors, open to European and international influences. A section focuses on manifestations of public art in its plastic and painterly (muralism) forms, presenting sketches for murals and sculptures intended for public places, reliefs, glass panels and posters. The Contrasts section reflects the clash between modernity
and tradition, culminating in the critical issue of “degenerate art” in Germany, which was reflected in some respects in Italy. Section V is dedicated Design and applied arts, the multiplication of art, mass reproduction, a variety of different household items against a backdrop of modern environments. In the final section, the opening group refers to Florence’s role as the city of the most important and dynamic cultural journals, forming connections between poetry, painting, writing, sculpture and music. On the other hand there is the contrasting, albeit complementary, theme of The Strength of the Province and its Origins, featuring works by Soffici, Rosai, Viani, Romanelli, Marini, Quinto Martini and Manzù. The Modernity Myth relates
The Thirties: The Arts in Italy beyond Fascism palazzo strozzi - Piazza Strozzi 1 055.2645155
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the developments of such an atypical Futurist as Thayaht, and his brother Ram, to ideas for the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s renewal as embodied in the two architectural masterpieces
of the new Santa Maria Novella station and the Giovanni Berta stadium. Until January 27th.
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guy bourdin a message for you More at: < www.mnaf.it >
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uy Bourdin is considered one of the most interesting authors of artistic photos of the twentieth century. At the end of the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;70s with his shots Bourdin was the promoter and supporter of a radical change in the fashion world. And forty years ago, in 1972, he published his first photo shoot for Vogue Italy. The exhibition A MESSAGE FOR YOU includes the production of Bourdin in the late 70s when, at the height of his artistic maturity, his watchful eye keeps track of the social changes of the period: sexual freedom, capitalism, the excesses of consumerism and the growing presence of the media. Influenced by Man Ray and Edward Weston, by RenĂŠ Magritte and in general by the whole Surrealist movement He has passionately explored the theme of life and death, and sexuality,
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which he considered the key moments of every life. Visionary imaginative, fervent in his photographs, He has often used the metaphor to investigate contradictory realities enhancing the most sublime and irrational qualities. All themes find their perfect place on the pages of glossy fashion magazines. The exhibition captures the most important period of his career focusing on a unique body of work that Guy Bourdin produced in collaboration with Nicolle Meyer, his muse and model. The 75 prints on display are a collection of some of the photoshoots published on Vogue France, various advertising campaigns such as Charles Jourdan, Pentax calendar and Versace, and a collection of never-published before from the archives of Guy Bourdin. The Exhibition is completed by a projection that collects more images presenting a kind of visual journey through the landscapes of Guy Bourdin. From January 10th.
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Guy Bourdin A message for you MNAF- Museo Nazionale Alinari per la Fotografia Piazza S. M. Novella, 14ar 055.216310 25
The Uffizi Foundry - Alchemy and Art More at: < www.polomuseale.firenze.it >
da fattori al novecento reali poste Uffizi Gallery Piazzale degli Uffizi, 1 055.2388651
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ack to the Reali Poste’s the twelfth edition of “I Mai Visti” (never been seen) exhibition with free admission. This year’s theme is “Alchemy and the Uffizi Foundry from laboratory to room of wonders.” This exhibition aims to illustrate the history and works of the Foundry, at the intersection of art and science, magic and technology. Paintings, sculptures, engravings, manuscripts, ancient remedies and pharmaceutical printed texts, tell the passion of the Medici family for the chemistry between the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. More than 60 works, rarities and valuable pieces, capable of bringing public attention to the lesser-known aspects of the Florentine collection. The Medici sovereign had an uncontrollable passion for the alchemical art, as attested by many surprised visitors and as reflected in some of the paintings in his famous Study of Palazzo Vecchio. Until February 3rd.
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The Dalì Universe More at: < www.palazzo-medici.it >
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n exhibition entirely dedicated to Salvador Dalì with more than 100 works by the Master of Surrealism, a unique opportunity that allows the public to approach the lesser-known aspects of the work of the great spanish artist. The visitor has the pleasure of admiring lesser known collections related to different aspects of the artistic production of Salvador Dalì such as bronze sculptures, including two monumental statues placed in two of the main squares of the city, the illustrations on the great themes of literature, glass objects and sets in gold. In addition to the great sculptures “The Dalì Universe Firenze” presents to the public the wide yet little-known works of Dalì as an illustrator: infact the Master spent a long time reinterpretating in surrealistic key many famous literary texts, both contemporary and classic.
The Dalì Universe Limonaia di palazzo medici Via Cavour 1 055.2760340
From January 30th.
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Francis Bacon More at: < www.strozzina.org >
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Francis Bacon and the Existential Condition in Contemporary Art, will be presenting work by contemporary artists who exam today’s existential state of societal mind. Their work explores the kind of questions man asks himself in his relationship with his own interior being, his body and the outside world. At the core of the exhibition are paintings by Francis Bacon (1909-1992), whose work is placed in dialogue with that of five contemporary artists of international renown: Nathalie Djurberg, Adrian Ghenie, Arcangelo Sassolino, Chiharu Shiota and Annegret Soltau. These artists share Bacon’s reflection on man’s existential condition and on the depiction of the human figure. Bacon’s paintings on display are set against a selection of photographic and hardcopy material from the artist’s
Francis Bacon the Existential Condition in Contemporary Art CCCS Strozzina - Palazzo Strozzi Piazza Strozzi 055.2645155
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archive: photo portraits, reproductions of masterpieces of the past, film stills, and pictures from books and magazines. This material, which Bacon used as a working tool when creating his art, is presented in the exhibition thanks to the CCC Strozzinaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cooperation with the Dublin City Gallery The Hugh Lane, which acquired an authentic and perfectly preserved reconstruction of the artistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s last London workshop in 1998. His mingling of the figurative and the abstract, his bodies transfigured, his reference to autobiographical elements, his use of a variety of different iconographic sources and of tension and isolation as metaphors of manâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s life can also be found as crucial aspects of in the work of the five contemporary artists that is arranged in a situation of dialogue with Bacon in an effort to trigger an existential reflection on contemporary living. Until January 27th 29
Rembrandt through Morandi’s eyes More at: < www.polomuseale.firenze.it >
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ookuing at Rembrandt through the eyes of Morandi to understand the secret of their faraway nearby: the intent of the next exhibition at the Prints and Drawings Cabinet of the Uffizi, where the vision of the works will be enhanced by the new lighting system. Morandi early in his self-study training as an engraver became obsessively interested in Rembrandt’s works, in his library there were publications about the Dutch artist, while his collection included at least five of Rembrandt’s engravers. The approach of Giorgio Morandi to Rembrandt follows the hidden and inaccessible roads, of both emulation and imitation never really tryong to reproduce the sign or the style but managing to find the same expressive power. Until March 18th.
Rembrandt through Morandi’s eyes GABINETTO DISEGNI E STAMPE DEGLI UFFIZI P.le Degli Uffizi 1 055.2388624
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rucellai chapel More at: < www.museomarinomarini.it>
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rucellai chapel special opening museo marino marini Piazza S. Pancrazio - 055 219432
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ucellai Chapel the undisputed jewel of the Italian Renaissance will be open as a special event during the whole month of January. The Rucellai Chapel hosted inside the church of S. Pancrazio in Florence, contains the shrine of the Holy Sepulchre designed by Leon Battista Alberti. The small monument was built for the rich merchant Giovanni Rucellai, the shape of the temple is inspired by that of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem, reinterpreted in a strictly classical manner. The external decoration of the marble inlays are based on traditional Florentine Romanesque. Now, after the restoration with the support of the Foundation Marini, this important monument will be visible through the opening of a door in the nave of the Marine Museum.
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Classical Music Richard Wagner - Die Walküre Zubin Mehta (conductor), La Fura dels Baus (Carlus Padrissa)(director); a Teatro del Maggio Musicale Fiorentino staging in coproduction with the “Reina Sofía” Palau de les Arts of Valencia in the original language with subtitles. Exhausted and hounded by his enemies, Siegmund, the Völsung and son of Wälse (in other words Wotan), seeks refuge in the house of Hunding, where Sieglinde, Hunding’s wife, takes him in and invites him to stay, as she instinctively feels sympathetic towards the young man. On his return home, Hunding is suspicious of the strange similarity between the stranger and his wife and begs him to reveal his name... 15, 17, 22 January: 19.00 - 20 January: 15.30 - Teatro Comunale - Corso Italia, 16- Firenze VON STEINAECKER - BLACHER Philipp Von Steinaecker (conductor), Kolja Blacher (violin) with the Orchestra della Toscana. In memory of Luciano Berio: Beethoven: Concert for violin and orchestra 34
op.61; BERIO: Chorale on “Sequenza VIII” for violin, two horns and strings (1981) in memory of Luciano Berio. Andrea Albori and Paolo Faggi (horns); Wagner: Symphony in C major 18 January: 21.00 - Teatro Verdi - Via Ghibellina, 99 - Firenze VENTURA - BLACHER Fabrizio Ventura (conductor), Nemanja Radulovic (violin) with the Orchestra della Toscana. Casella: Paganiniana op.65, divertimento on themes by Paganini; Paganini: Concert n.1 for violin and orchestra op.6; Beethoven: Symphony n.4 op.60. 31 January: 21.00 - Teatro Verdi - Via Ghibellina, 99 - Firenze Mozart - Don Giovanni MaggioDanza and Orchestra of the Maggio Musicale Direttore Zubin Mehta, Regia Lorenzo Marian with Orchestra e Coro del Maggio Musicale Fiorentino. Leporello complains about his master’s (Don Giovanni) wild life when he burst
into the scene, followed by Donna Anna, who wants to discover who is the unknown seducer from her mistaken darkness for her boyfriend Ottavio. 3,5,7 February: 20.30 - 10 February: 15.30 - Teatro Comunale - Corso Italia, 16- Firenze Carl Orff - Carmina Burana Cantata for soloists, chorus and orchestra. Conductor Zubin Mehta. Equipment La Fura dels Baus, Blue Angel Soprano, Countertenor Nicholas Marchesini, baritone Juha Uusitalo with Orchestra of the Maggio Musicale Fiorentino. 8 February: 20.30 - Mandela Forum Viale Paoli - Firenze Ton Koopman Director Ton Koopman, Johannette Zomer Soprano, Alto Bogna Bartosz, tenor Tilman Lichdi, bass Klaus Mertens, Orchestra and Chorus of the Maggio Musicale Fiorentino, Chorus Master Piero Monti. Franz Joseph Haydn: Missa Sancti
Bernardi von Offida Heiligmesse, in B flat major for soloists, chorus and orchestra, Hob. XXII: 10. Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart: Symphony in E flat major K. 54327. 16 February: 20:30 - 17 February: 16:30 - Teatro Comunale - Corso Italia, 16 - Firenze Short Time II: Piattaforma nuovi coreografi A new, interesting show program shoewcasing young talents, specifically choreographers, who are offered a unique opportunity to introduce their work: the creation of a choreography for the company MaggioDanza, in the season of 2014 ballet of the Teatro del Maggio Musicale Fiorentino, a platform, a contest just for the choreographers of today and tomorrow. 24 December: 17:00 - Teatro Verdi - Via Ghibellina, 99 - Firenze
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Pop Music LOS HERMANOS MACANA The undisputed stars of tango festivals throughout the world, Argentinians Enrique and Guillermo De Fazio are considered the most talented pair of dancers on the international tango scene and their unique interpretations and rapid and flawless steps, together with wonderful entertainment and live music, will surprise and captivate the public. 22 January: 21.00 - Teatro Verdi - Via Ghibellina, 99 - Firenze DUUM I SONICS return to explore the world of acrobatic or aerial theatre with a new adventures inspired by the legend of the world of Agharta and describe various places in this legendary kingdom, situated in the centre of the earth, as well as its colours, rules, equilibrium and rhythm. 1 February: 21.00 - Teatro Verdi - Via Ghibellina, 99 - Firenze
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Ballo in maschera A great party for Carnival where the public can dance on stage with the Orchestra del Maggio conducted by Zubin Mehta and the dancers of Maggiodanza. Afterwards, DJ Set in the Piccolo Teatro until late at night. Conductor Zubin Mehta, the Orchestra del Maggio Musicale Fiorentino & MaggioDanza 9 February: 20:30 - Teatro Comunale Corso Italia, 16 - Firenze ANGIUS - BOLLANI Marco Angius director, Stefano Bollani piano. BOLLANI improvisation piano solo; Ravel Concerto in G, Ma mère lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;oye; Stravinskij The Firebird, Suite (version 1945) 12 February: 21.00 - Teatro Verdi - Via Ghibellina, 99 - Firenze CLANNAD With a career that has now spread across four decades, Clannad over the years found the magic formula to com-
bine traditional and modern music mixing the past with the future. The potion made of heavenly voices and songs that go straight to the soul, led the Irish Band to sell more than fifteen million copies around the world. 18 February- 21.00 - ObiHall - Via Fabrizio Dè Andre GLEN HANSARD Glen Hansard is a gifted, emotive frontman who sings as if he must, with a heart on his sleeve that is constantly throbbing. Frontman of the acclaimed FRAMES and SWELL SEASON published earlier this year Rhythm And Repose critically acclaimed as one of the most romantic and emotional record of 2012 22 February - 21.00 - Viper Theatre Via Pistoiese / Via Lombardia BRAD the Seattle band of the 90s with Stone Gossard of Pearl Jam and Shawn Smith of Pigeonhead / Satchel will be in Florence
on February 24th promoting its latest release, their fifth album entitled “United We Stand”. For fans of grunge rock and 90’s revival! 24 February - 21.00 - Viper Theatre Via Pistoiese / Via Lombardia the jon spencer blues explosion The New York Trio band who has been destroying and rebuilding rock’n roll from the early 90’s until nowday will be playing in Florence on February 15th. A chance to meet one of the most fiery live band of the planet promoting their new and long awauted album “MEAT AND BONE”. New millennium Blues starts here! 15 February - 21.00 - Auditorium FLOG Via Mercati, 24 LUDOVICO EINAUDI Ludovico Einaudi presents live his latest album, In a Time Laps, accompanied by a string ensemble, percussion and electronics. 15 February: 21.00 - Teatro Verdi - Via Ghibellina, 99 - Firenze 37
folklore
let the fun begin There’s more to Carnival than meets the eye...
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riginating from ancient pagan rites, the Carnival tradition has acquired a whole different meaning in Christian times, when it was associated with a spell of marriment preceeding the restrictions and fasting of Lent. Carnival varies in length and dates each year, however, as a rule off thumb the celebrations usually start four Sundays before the Martedì Grasso, and the last couple of weeks are the “hottest”. Martedì Grasso this year is on February 21st. On Berlingaccio (the last carnival Thursday), the last Carnival Sunday and Martedì Grasso many discos, bars and restaurants will hold carnival parties, but if the weather isn’t too bad there will also be much partying going on in the streets. Of course you can dress up as almost anything you fancy or invent your own costume, or even just put on some fancy makeup. But you may also like to know that all the main towns in Italy have their local traditional masks. Here are just a few of the names you may want to get acquainted with: Pulcinella is from Naples, Arlecchino and Colombina are a couple of lovers from Venice, Dottor Balanzone is from Bologna, Rugantino is from Rome, Gianduia is from Turin. In Tuscany, Florence has Stenterello. In Florence children dress up and parade with their parents in the squares, at the Cascine park and along the Lungarno Vespucci, scattering colorful confetti and wielding cans of squirty shaving foam.
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shopping
Shop ‘till You Drop Freshly milled Sale Season in Italy
winter sale season January 5th - March 6th
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kay, you have arrived. You are now officially a student abroad and you’re starting to settle in and get a feel for the place. Finding your way to school is no longer such a challenge and you’ve stopped getting your fork out every time someone says ciao. So it must be time to shop for souvenirs and presents for family and friends. Yeah, we know you just got here and aren’t planning to go back for a while anyway, but consider this: Saldi. Sales. It is a now or never situation in Italy. Unlike in the States and elsewhere in the world - where stores almost always have a promotion or two going on - Italy has a set sale season when almost everything goes on sale; but when the sale is over, it’s over baby! No more bargains for six more months, till the end of the next season. There are two sales a year, one in January and the other in July. So you are here just in time to take advantage of the winter offerings. This year the winter sales will officially start on January 5th and the season closes on March 5th although many stores finish their sales earlier because they literally run out of merchandise. Whether you want to buy some new threads to try and look like a native or if you want to even out the euro/dollar exchange rate a little, the sales are a great opportunity to save some money. Almost all types of stores have some items on sale and many clothing stores have absolutely everything on sale. Most stores offer
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between twenty and fifty percent off regular prices on a lot of their merchandise. So whether you are looking for designer fashion or simply need a new t-shirt for the gym, now is the time to get it on sale. Shopping here is a cultural experience in and of itself. Yes, money still exchanges hands but that is pretty much where the resemblance wears off. If you have had enough culture shock for the moment and want “simple” shopping, then go to a big department store and you will feel pretty much at home. They are open all day long and close around eight. Otherwise, there are a few good rules of thumb to remember if you are going shopping elsewhere. For instance, most smaller stores close for lunch; generally they are open from 9 or 10am to 1pm and then again from 4pm to 7 or 7:30pm. And, no, shopkeepers are not happy to stay if they see you rushing in at 12:59. In most cases they are hungry and want to go home to their pasta. So if they see you eying out their window at 12:56 and you look like an indecisive type they may very well close just a few minutes early because they figure that if you are serious about buying something you’ll come back later, and if not they still had their nice lunch for good measure.The most important thing to remember when you go shopping in Italy is buyer beware. If it’s clothes and shoes you’re looking at, be careful to try them on because sizing can be tricky and 42
often varies from store to store. Also, most stores won’t take sale items back under any circumstances, so make sure that it’s exactly what you want before you fork over the cash. Read the tags carefully because they are loaded with relevant information and you can make sure that you are really buying something on sale. If the item is more than 30 percent off the original marked price, you may want to double check that it’s something the store normally sells and not some merchandise they have brought in just for the sale, or else something left over from years past. And while your grandmother may not realize that your brand new Gucci jacket is from 1992, almost everyone else will. Some stores even raise their prices right before the sale so the reduction looks larger than it actually is, so beware if the original price is not clearly visible.The last thing to remember is that most Italian stores are smaller than their American counterparts and as a result they don’t keep as much merchandise on hand. If you have a common size or want the hottest pair of shoes on the market it is probably a good idea to shop early. If you have an unusual size or you like taking risks you may want to wait a little longer because some stores lower their prices even further as the sale goes on. But if you can’t live without that pair of lime green shoes you might want to snatch them up as soon as you see them. Happy Hunting! 43
shopping
fashion valley outlet
a Full Shopping Immersion at Outlet Price more at: < www.fashionvalley.it >
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he first thought about Firenze has taken you among gorgeous landscapes of cypresses and villas, marble statues and fascinating art masterpieces? Or have you daydreamed about the rich taste of an ice cream on the Ponte Vecchio, by the river sung by Dante Alighieri and the major world poets? Yes, you were right, perfectly right... but there is much more still to know about Firenze and Tuscany. The creativity, the elegance, the glamour of this blessed territory targeted by the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most important tourism agencies has another gift for
you. The gift of Fashion. Fashion with a capital «L», meaning Luxury (at reasonable prices), with selected goods from the best brands. You came to Florence, so you surely aimed at the Best… and it’s exactly what we offer you. Let us introduce to your kind attention FASHION VALLEY, the new company store gallery of trendy boutiques in Leccio, at only 30 minutes from Firenze (transfer service available: for directions ask the hotel Concierge). Take your time for a lovely shopping experience in the newly built complex, where multilingual personnel will help you in making the best choices. Wrap yourself up in style and beauty, touch and wear glamorous shoes and 45
clothes, try on your person the look of the most recent and trendy bags, eyeglasses and accessories. Fashion Valley offers the luxury products of VERSACE, JOHN RICHMOND, BALLY, RED VALENTINO, VIKTOR & ROLF, ERMANNO SCERVINO, MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA, SANTONI, MARC JACOBS, BLAUER, CALEFFI, CP COMPANY, DSQUARED2, ZAGLIANI, I PINCO PALLINO, FASHION KIDS, CHOPARD, HERMES, BULGARI, CARTIER, POMELLATO, GUZZINI, HUSKY, VICINI, OUTLY, LUXURY ZONE, VIVIENNE WESTWOOD, ZANOTTI DESIGN… and you know you deserve no less than this. Fashion Valley has been ideated and made exactly for a certain class of visitors who can appreciate the Italian Style, to make come true your dreams of Italian luxury clothes and accessories. A visit to Fashion Valley is an opportunity not to be missed. We look forward to your visit in Fashion Valley, the very place to satisfy your sophisticated preferences. Because Firenze is not only cypresses and villas, palaces and churches… but surely you knew it from the beginning of your trip, didn’t you?
fashion valley Leccio, Reggello (Florence) Tel. +39.055.8657798 www.fashionvalley.it
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wellness
Let’s go Skiing Skiing in Tuscany for fun and exercise
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hen we think about the winter, we can’t help conjuring up images of the bad season, when we get cold and wet and windy weather and we are not pleased even to just step out of our warm beds in the morning. But there are places where the winter time is like a second spring, where it triggers a second and different rush of life, and these places are mountains. Here the “bad season” is awaited like an old friend that year after year brings a beautiful, glowing gift: snow. Living in Florence, the handiest skiing destinations are the Appennine mountains in the province of Pistoia. The winter resorts of the area include villages like Pian degli Ontani, Pian di Novello, Doganaccia and Cutigliano, but the most important is certainly Abetone, well-loved and visited by tourists from all over the world. The location is renowned not only for the beauty and variety of its ski-slopes but also for its world-class champions like Zeno Colò, Celina Seghi and Vittorio Chierroni. Abetone is situated on the mountain pass of the same name marking the border between Tuscany and Emilia, on the main Abetone-Brennero road that climbs to an altitude of 1,388 metres on sea level surrounded by a large forest of fir trees. 48
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Abetone is just 85 km from Florence and it is the Florentines’ favourite destination for skiing weekends or even for day trips. Skiers first arrived in the village at the beginning of the 20th century, but nowadays the skiing area extends over four wonderful valleys - Val di Luce, Valle della Scoltella, Sestaione and Lima valleys - with a total 80 kilometres the ski-slopes that reach altitudes of up to 1900 m. The skiing season opens on December 8th, but the best period is between January and March, when the slopes can become very crowded especially during the weekends. Abetone is also popular for weekly packages called settimana bianca (white week), when people take a week off on the slopes. The wide runs are ideal for all skiers, from beginners to experts. The most popular runs are on Mount Gomito, which is reached by the Ovovia lift: they are named Zeno One, Two and Three as a tribute to the local Olympic gold winner Zeno Colò. Another popular feature is the new Abetone terrain park, a state-of-the-art facility boasting half-pipe and 10-foot jumps for the pleasure and thrill of daring snowboarders. If you want to enjoy the fun and exercise of a few days out on the ski slopes, don’t be put off by the fact that you didn’t carry your skiing equipment to Florence with you: Abetone abounds 50
in ski rental stores that will provide all kinds of stuff: skis and poles, boots and boards to match your size and height. At lunch time, you have several options, including eating in the village down at the pass or high up on the slopes at the self-service near the Ovovia or the Rifugi at La Selletta and Val di Luce. Like Italians always do, you also have a great opportunity to take an after-lunch nap on the outdoor chairs, which is an excellent excuse for a suntanning session, great for a little peaceful rest but also a favourite if you want to save your energies for some nightlife, at the local pub or disco on the main square. Overnight accommodation offers a wide selection of lodging including four-star hotels with swimming pool, cheaper hotels, a youth hostel, rooms to let, tourist villages, mountain huts and villas. There are also several Tuscan-style restaurants on all price ranges, pizzerias and snack-bars. Typical food from this area includes mushrooms, cheese, cured meats and frutti di bosco (wild berries). Characteristic is the local pecorino cheese and the excellent local honey.
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Wellness palestra ricciardi (1) Founded 50 years ago, Palestra Ricciardi is the biggest gym in the Florence downtown, known as the coolest gym in town combining experienced staff with the most modern equipment. You can improve your physique in a pleasant and dynamic environment spread over a surface of 1600 sqm surrounding a lovely internal garden. The space devoted to your training is composed of several areas which include: the cardio fitness area, the free weights area, rooms for isotonic equipment, two rooms for classes and the spinning room. After a hard training session you can choose to relax in a sauna or with a massage session. The gym offers 81 hours of classes weekly: Total Body Workout, Step, Spinning, Easy Dance, Corpo Libero, Yoga, Hip Hop, Power Pump, Body Sculpt, Pilates, Fit Box, Stretching, Gag, Soft Gymnastic, Capoeira. Personalised fitness programmes and fully qualified instructors. Special membership fees for students.
(1)
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Borgo Pinti, 75 055.2478444 www.palestraricciardi.it
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re you a step machine addict or dreaming of perfect muscles? Or have you just arrived in town and need to find a gym (possibly within walking distance) in the city centre? There are an infinite number of gymnasiums. It is worth hunting up one with the facilities you require nearest to your digs. Many also do courses in yoga or the martial arts pilates to FIt box or Capoeria (a brazilian way between a martial art and a dancing) or have a gymnasium attached. And obviously most of these gyms offer special relaxing areas with sauna, massages or spa. Florence also boasts many dance and ballet schools, though of course you have to select the type of dance course you prefer. Start looking for your ideal gym from our tips.
Flavours of Tuscany osteria santo spiritO
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(2)
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(1)
In the heart of the Oltrarno District where you still can breath the ancient Florence of the craftsmen and the thousands workshop, the Florence of the common people and the markets, you can find Osteria Santo Spirito right at the corner of the most famous square of Santo Spirito, a meeting place for all international gourmands, for florentines in love with their city and foreigners discovering the taste of Tuscany possibly in a cosy atmospehere. Take a lunch or dine at the tables overlooking the enchanting Piazza Santo Spirito (the Osteria has a wonderful dehors one of the most fascinating in the city) or in the colourful rooms inside the Osteria. The menu includes typical and traditional Tuscan platters accompanied by some interesting new variations, you can start with land starters such as wildboar sausages and dry tomatoes and go on with rigatoni santo spirito with dry ricotta cheese and maybe close with a mixed meat grill or you can choose the fish menus with sea products always fresh and tasty. The wines and desserts are excellent. Piazza Santo Spirito 16r - 055.2382383 www.osteriasantospirito.it Open daily 12-23.30
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Le Antiche Carrozze (2) Try tasting some of the traditional recipes from the Italian cuisine in this ancient trattoria just off Via Tornabuoni and overlooking Piazza Santa Trinita. The warm and welcoming atmosphere in the recently restructured dining rooms still recall the mid 19th century when this venue was a regular stopping place for carriage drivers. It is the ideal place to discover the real â&#x20AC;&#x153;Florentine Steakâ&#x20AC;? of genuine Chianina meat and perfectly prepared and cooked, as well as taste many other natural and healthy products, like the olive oil, dressed meats, vegetables and cheeses. The menu is based on the simple recipes typical of the local cuisine, but the Chef makes use of his wide experience to fully enhance the freshness and quality of the ingredients. All these traditional flavours in Tuscan cooking are accompanied by excellent pizzas prepared with care and experience. The pizzas boast a truly authentic flavour as they are cooked in a woodburning oven. The best wine to drink with your meal, either selecting it from the important Tuscan labels or from the excellent selection of the best Italian wines. Piazza Santa Trinita corner with Borgo Santi Apostoli 055.2658156 - www.leantichecarrozze.it Open daily 11.00-23.00.
he legendary and extremely simple food of Tuscany is the result of centuries of poverty and therefore has been based on salads, legumes, cereals and meat since the Middle Ages. Olive oil is almost always used rather than lard, and vegetable soups rather than pasta. All the food is bread related and of course the main drink is wine that lends colour to every glass. Although the modern trends in food have practically swept away many regional culinary traditions, Tuscany can still boast of an incredible historic continuity in traditional cooking and therefore has managed to preserve dishes that the present research into genuine foods is once more bringing back into the limelight, to the joy of all tastebuds, including those of its foreign visitors. We should remember that most typical Tuscan dishes are linked to particular areas or the various seasons of the year. 55
Pizza Pizza Pizza! Mr. Pizza
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(1)
MR. PIZZA in Florence is a universe of delicious appetizers and offers its customers a wide choice of pizza cut, takeaway or home delivery. It ‘s open from morning until late at night to enjoy at any time of day the taste of true Neapolitan tradition. In the true Neapolitan pizza the cheese is soft and pan is thin but high-sided. The peculiarities of Neapolitan pizza is due largely to its pulp to be produced with a bread dough - that is completely devoid of fat - soft and elastic, stretched by hand in the form of a disc without touching the edges that will form in a typical kitchen “ledge “of 1 or 2 cm while the dough at the center will be high about 3 mm. A fast passage in a very hot oven must leave the pizza moist and soft, not overcooked. But at MR PIZZA, not only you can eat pizza awaits but also a large variety of salads, turnovers, croquettes, pretzels, washed down with a good selection of craft beers and more. EVERYTHING TO GO & DELIVERY Via Pietrapiana 82r - 055.3860311 www.pizzerianapoletanamrpizza-firenze.com
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ostaria dei centopoveri (2) Ostaria dei Centopoveri is located in the historic centre of Florence, in via del Palazzuolo just steps away from Santa Maria Novella. Take a romantic walk through the ancient streets of the Santa Maria Novella neighborhood to discover this delicious restaurant and pizzeria. Its name is very old and comes from time when the nobility offered one hundred poor people a free meal on the last day of Carnival at the Church of San Francesco. Today the Ostariaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s menu is typically Tuscan, like the interior with its terracotta floors and wood-panelled ceilings, and the white ceramic tiles covering the counter. Ribollita and pappa al pomodoro top the menu, together with ricotta and spinach tortelli with Boletus mushrooms, sliced or grilled steaks or, alternatively, really fresh fish. The Restaurant has doubled itself adding a new area for Pizzeria, a most modern environment where dark wooden panels elegantly counteract to the white and orange elements of the room: from the chairs designed by Philippe Stark to the plain minimal curtains and the informal table clothes and coloured glasses. The wine list Regional and Italian wines.
izzas come in thousands of variations and are certainly not just round pieces of flat dough with a little tomato and cheese slapped on top! If you prefer your pizza simple make sure that the ingredients are really fresh and that the mozzarella cheese is of the buffalo variety, by far the best! A good pizza should also be baked in a proper wood burning oven to acquire just that perfect aroma and flavour desired by the true connoisseur! Pizzas can come thick and puffy, or thin and crunchy, and should overflow with flavoursome toppings. Easily digested, they are a complete meal and a popular excuse for a gettogether among friends and, eaten in pleasant surroundings they taste even better.
Via del Palazzuolo corner with Via del Porcellana 055.218846 - www.centopoveri.it Open daily 12.00-15.00 & 19.00-24.00 57
gelaterie gelateria della passera (1)
(1)
This delightful gelateria in tiny and characteristic Piazza della Passera serves delicious handmade ice creams that are made only with the freshest ingredients coming directly from local producers. The gelateria offers a select number of flavours, all freshly made every day. Try fior di panna with mint, served with fresh sprigs of mint, the mouth-watering sorbets, the innovative Mojito Ices or the Tine or Mango Ices: are all delicious. The pleasant lady owner takes pride in her ice cream, while offering a friendly service. From November 22nd Gelateria della Passera reopens with new delicious proposals, on a weekly basis you will be able to find flavors that recall the scent of tea and spices. Try the new “Profumi d’oriente” (scent of the East) with fresh ginger, cinnamon, cardamom, saffron and a splash of lemon, which has digestive and antiseptic properties or “Carezze” (caresses) with almond milk, chamomile and honey sweet and velvety just enough to cherish you like a warm blanket in winter. You can enjoy “Diospero” (from the greek food of the gods) a seasonal taste made of persimmon with the addition of clementine, mandarin oranges and pomegranate. Piazza della Passera Via Toscanella,15r - 055.291882 Open 12pm-12am
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Nightlife pitta m’ingolli
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The colorful and lively scene of Piazza Santo Spirito has just enriched with a new venue: a rustic style, charming bistrot, reminiscent of some French Bar au Vin. Freshly inaugurated, PITTA M’INGOLLI, which is Lucchese dialect for “may devil swallow you”, is just a few steps from the famous Osteria Santo Spirito, also owned by Chiara Tassi. Open from morning to late night, starts with the breakfast, but stands out for a wide variety of sandwiches with cold cuts (ham, mortadella, finocchiona) cheese (goat cheese and sun-dried tomatoes, gorgonzola, honey and nuts) to fish specialities (butter and anchovies, salmon and arugula) combined with various sauces (tuna, tartare, mushroom sauce, walnuts, truffle) focaccia, baguette, various drinks, milkshakes, centrifugal fresh fruit, coffee for only 80 cents. and appetizers for 5 euro. Interior is coated in warm wood, with high stools and newspapers. Piazza S. Spirito, 17r 055.264256 Open daily 6.30am - 2.00am
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salamanca
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With an entrance sunken in slightly from the street-front windows and doors, Salamanca draws you in almost seductively with its muted and rustic reds, cursive lettering above the door and calm dim lighting. Upon entering, a beautiful and engaging staff allows you to be guided wherever you choose to enjoy this intriguing bar and restaurant. You may enjoy a meal in one of the three dining rooms, including a more intimately themed one in the back. Or for a more casual evening, quaint two seater tables off to the right, a variety of tables in the front room to the left, a tapas bar in the back, or a traditional bar in the very front. With a full menu from tapas to meat meals, wonderful fish dishes to salads, amazingly decadent desserts and delicious drinks, the food alone entices any restaurant goer. With its atmosphere, its upbeat American and Spanish mix of music, wonderful staff, entrancing ambience, leaving Salamanca seems like not an option. Via Ghibellina, 80r 055.2345452 - www.salamanca.it Open Daily 5.30pm - 2.30am
peritif comes from the Latin word â&#x20AC;&#x153;aperireâ&#x20AC;?, to open. You should remember that traditionally, Italians do not drink in order to get drunk: rather, alcohol fulfils a complementary role in the dining process. An aperitif is meant to cleanse your palate and whet your appetite for the upcoming meal. The typically French and Italian rite of aperitif offers a taste of la bonne vie for those who enjoy nothing more than raising a glass in the company of friends. Many bars in Florence now offer a sophisticated choice of finger foods and snacks to accompany your aperitif. Arrive between 7pm and 9pm, buy yourself a drink and you can expect to stock up for free on a good spread of complimentary nibbles. Even the music mix is also specially chosen with smooth, soothing sounds providing a suitable backdrop for a relaxed chat among friends. 61
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