lokhg

Top Gifts! CANDY CANE BUNTING · EASY STOCKING · 15-MIN TREE DECS PATTERNS INSIDE!

Sizes 6-22*

Christmas

13

Outfïts to WOW!

GLITZY DRESSES · GLAM TOPS

4

XMAS 2018 ISS 116 £7.99

x

SEQUIN SPECIAL!

Sleeve Styles

it’s party season!

Go for Gold Pencil Skirt

SIZES* 6 -22 FAST,FESTIVE & FABULOUS

2-Step Mittens

Hello... Christmas What’s your favourite season? For me, it’s always been winter! With Christmas on the horizon, I love nothing more than an excuse to get glammed up in an outfit I’ve hand-stitched for the occasion. Why not join in the fun with your enclosed patterns? Simplicity 8511 features four statement sleeves to try out. And if you’re hooked on the frills, you’ll love that we’ve paired it with Simplicity 8454, a versatile top that offers four different styles.

Turn to page 10 for our top tips before you get started!

If your diary is already getting booked up with parties, this month’s capsule collection will be just what you need! Try out Julia Claridge’s kimono wrap top (p22), which looks just as chic paired with jeans as it does a glitzy maxi. There’s also plenty of ways to rock metallics, as seen in our pencil skirt tutorial (p24) and statement pleat number on page 42. Finish off with an asymmetric jacket for nippier days (p28).

‘Tis also the season for tricky fabrics but not to worry, we’ve scouted out the best advice for working with luxe materials on page 49. You’ll also find a sequin masterclass with our dressmaker Amanda Walker (p37), plus our SOS experts stopped by to resolve your dress dilemmas on page 30.

Finished stitching your way through our Christmas-themed projects? Don’t forget to join in the countdown to this year’s Sew Saturday on page 58, then try your luck and vote for your sewing favourites in the British Sewing Awards for the chance to win £1,700 prizes (p40)!

f

d

d

f

24

Happy Christmas, stitchers!

Lucy xx

20% off !

7

Make Bobbin the Robin on page 73!

73 f

WOW! Get bargin coating fabrics at Minerva Crafts

sew

free template download

sewmag.co.uk /templates

HAVE YOU GOT YOUR FREE DOWNLOADS? Look out for our FREE templates and patterns, then download and print them at

sewmag.co.uk/templates

editorial@ sewmag.co.uk



Subscriptions

0330 333 0042

TWO PATTERNS INSIDE!

Project exclusive to

sew!

Get in touch! Share your creations, tips and views

@

42

Lucy Jobber, Sew editor

facebook.com/ sewhq

03

d Twitter @sewhq

sewmag.co.uk

Frocks and tops you’ll love!

Instagram @sewhq

Sew Magazine, 1 Phoenix Court, Hawkins Road, Colchester, Essex, CO2 8JY

sew � � � � � � in your Christmas issue...

10

73

77

We love!

IN EVERY ISSUE 03 Welcome

Come and say hello!

06 Who, what, wear

What’s trending in the sewing world

17 Sew social

You’ve been sharing your makes

44 Stitch & learn Our round-up of sewing classes

70 Sew wishlist

The top pick for Christmas is Stoff & Stil’s collection

85 The books we’re loving The latest must-reads

86 Your sewing guide Get to grips with sewing jargon

89 Next month

Our November issue’s out on 18th October

TEA BREAK

40 British Sewing Awards

Cast your vote for the chance to win £1,700 of prizes

58 Sew Saturday

Get the low-down on this exciting stitchy event!

90 Style story: the flapper dress

Delve into the history behind this iconic frock

GIFTS

72 Candy cane bunting

Stitch a festive hanging

72 Bottle labels

A quick and easy make

73 Mug cosy

67 Fabric tubs

Stitchy storage solutions you’ll love

68 Moomin magic

Two projects inspired by loveable characters

HOME

56 Stuart Hillard Our columnist welcomes winter

Keep your hot chocolate nice and toasty

73 Bobbin the Robin

Our mascot was lovingly named by a Sew reader 74 Janome showcase Celebrating its 50th year in the UK with lots of fabulous offers!

76 Cross-stitch napkins Perfect for your Christmas dinner table 77 Patchwork stocking Have you been naughty or nice?

78 Felt mittens Add a bit of razzle dazzle to felt shapes 78 Shaker baubles This DIY make will go down a treat 78 Appliqué cushion Turn your home into a winter wonderland

78

76 04

sewmag.co.uk

79 Confessions of a sewing addict Corinne chats about all things festive

68 72

FREEBIES & OFFERS

81

20% off* COATING FABRICS!

Dressmaking pages of fashion, 30 garments & more!

10 Stunning frocks Use your pattern to make a show-stopping dress 13 Frill blouses Sew versatile ruffle tops with your pattern 20 Festive fabrics It’s sheen and sequins galore this month!

22 Kirsty kimono Stitch an elegant ensemble 24 Layla skirt Wake up your winter workwear

36 Lauren Guthrie’s top tools.. for coat making 28 Laura jacket The capsule wardrobe essential for cooler months 30 Sewing SOS Our experts’ top tips for creating the perfect party outfit 33 Fashion forecast Check out these luscious velvet options 34 Indie pattern news Don’t miss out on these independent brand picks

10

Replenish your Vilene stash this month Get your hands on amazing coating fabrics

80 WIN! Giveaways

Our amazing goodies are worth over £1,200!

82 Reader offer

FREE* Tie Dip Dye book worth £14.99

Subscribe today...

FREE GIFT

Enter online at

SEE PAGE 54 05

sewmag.co.uk

13

FREE NEXT MONTH... 89

FREE*AMAZING FIT DRESS PATTERN IN TWO COLOUR OPTIONS!

STITCHY PRIZES TO WIN!

sewmag.co.uk

28

26 Sewing with Tilly Master sewing on the bias 37 Sasha jacket Get prepped for the season of glitz 42 Skylar skirt Give us a twirl!

46 Debbie Shore’s show and tell Learn how to clip corners and curves 49 The luxe factor If sewing silky fabric makes you fret, read this 52 Love your machine Invest in top-quality Brother machines

6

07 20% OFF* Minerva Crafts

Use your gifts to sew glamorous dresses and eye-catching tops

37

7

06 20% OFF* Lady Sew and Sew

2

PATTERNS INSIDE

MIX ‘N’ MATCH OUTFITS DRESSES & TOPS

&

The sewing world is a hub of excitement – keep up!

We have some exciting fabric news for you! Cath Kidston has teamed up with TV personality Fearne Cotton to bring you the brand-new Fearne Loves collection on 26th October.

The limitededition range will feature motifs of honeybees and T-rexes designed by Fearne, and inspired by her children. cathkidston.com

Write on track

*Discount only available on pre-order.

Discount code valid until 31st October 2018.

Treat yourself to The Sewing Journal and get 10% off using code SEW10OFF*. With this notebook to hand, you can keep track of up to 27 projects, with space for fabric swatches and photos of your creations. You can also record the materials you use, keep details of costs, and make notes on any pattern changes. thesewingjournal.com

d

‘Tis the

Season

Invite the festive spirit into your home with these stitchy Christmas goodies for your loved ones! The West Sussex based store, Hide & Seek Textiles specialises in creating embroidered makes, and is creating a range of personalised stockings, sacks and advent calendars for the holiday season. To find out more, visit hideandseektextiles.com

Material world

f d

into the blue

Stay on-trend this Christmas with the Anni Building Block pattern! You’ll be able to mix and match the blocks to create up to 36 garment variations.

The pattern includes a flattering bodice, giving you the chance to practise princess seams and play with three neckline and sleeve options. Combine this with a knee-length pencil skirt, wide-leg trousers, or shorts with bell-shaped frills. £11.66, namedclothing.com

20% OFF

^

Lady Sew and Sew Before you get started on your party outfit for the upcoming festivities, head over to Lady Sew and Sew with the 20% off^ discount code 20SewMag and stock up your stash with Vilene. With this stitchy essential to hand, you’ll ensure that your next homemade garment has all the shape and support it needs. Visit ladysewandsew.co.uk 06

sewmag.co.uk

^Valid from 20th September until 31st October. Cannot be used in conjunction with any other offer.

Photographer: Arto Markkanen

d f

wear

who what

if you buy one pattern...

want it, need it, BUY IT!

For more on Janome’s new range, see page 74! jdwilliams.com

*The Janome autumn Sewing with Style promotion starts 1st September 2018 and ends 2nd January 2019. (All offers subject to stock availability).

Check out the gorgeous Simplicity 8592 pattern! This vintage dress has a figure-flattering empire waistline and a bodice which will allow you to practise sewing soft pleats at the bust and darts in the back. The frock also gives you the option to add concealed pockets and shoulder bows in design A, or contrasting bias binding for the neckline and armhole edges with style B. £10.50, simplicitynewlook.com

If you’re new to sewing, then this machine is for you! With 14 built-in stitches, a four-step automatic buttonhole and variable stitch length, the 217-S model will have you stitching up a storm in no time. The model also includes an easy-to-use quick-change foot, and a convertible free arm which is ideal for sewing cuffs and sleeves. Special offer: £99*, janome.co.uk

Chic kimono

d

The Nénuphar kimono-style jacket is perfect for layering over a plain or patterned tee and denim jeans for a casual look. Version A will let you practise patch pockets and three-quarter lengths, while option B will enable you to work with long gathered sleeves. Both patterns can be made up in a range of lovely fabrics, including chambray and rayon twill, to name a few. £12.56, deer-and-doe.com

20% off^ coating fabrics!

f

The cooler weather calls for warm coats and thick jumpers – and what better way to fill up your woolly stash than with a fabulous offer from Minerva Crafts? Delve into its extensive range of coating fabrics with the 20% off discount code COATING20^, and start adding some brand-new makes to your winter wardrobe. minervacrafts.com

20% off!^

07

sewmag.co.uk

^Valid from 20th September until 18th October 2018. Cannot be used in conjunction with any other offer.

THE LUXE

H

collection H

Party season calls for ramping up the glam, H and you’ll certainly be spoilt for choice with this month’s stunning patterns! Don’t forget to boost your festive dressmaker’s stash with glitzy metallics, delicate iced pinks and two-tone sequins, too.

PAGE

10

get stitching

your free patterns

ruffle

DRESS Make a statement with sleeves using your Simplicity 8511 pattern

PAGE

13

FANCY frill top From day to night, Simplicity 8454 has your outfit sorted!

H

our pattern PROMISE

All of our patterns are available in sizes 8-20* * Covermounted gifts may vary 08

sewmag.co.uk

H

PAGE

22

KIMONO WRAP top

Pair this wrapand-go number with jeans

NO PATTERN NEEDED

H

PAGE

28

asymmetric

COVER-UP Keep winter chills at bay in a boiled wool beauty

PAGE

37

SEQUIN jacket

Discover our top tips for stitching with two-tone fabric

H

H 09

sewmag.co.uk

PAGE

42

PLEATED skirt

Swish and sway in this pretty midi design

STITCH Stitch ITitWITH with

your free pattern

of your

potential

Discover the

2EASY

patterns

Make the most of your TWO PATTERNS and kit out your closet with eight tops and frocks! Begin with Simplicity 8511, which gives you the opportunity to create FOUR PARTY DRESSES in a variety of lightweight fabrics. With this pattern, you’ll be able to ramp up the frill factor, too, by choosing from four stylish sleeve variations; adapt the raglan with a trumpet, ruffled or pleated style or, for a truly unique look, try option B which combines a flared and cuff design.

You could consider making the ruffles in a different fabric from the main body – try a lightweight silk or chiffon so that the frills drape and flutter.

hemming RUFFLES

pick your NEEDLE

This gorgeous pattern can be made up in a variety of lightweight fabrics, from silky crepes and soft satins, to easy breezy cotton and linen. So it’s best to choose a universal needle in a size 60 or 70 to ensure a professional finish. This type of needle is the best kind for sewing with most natural fibres and woven fabrics, as well as some knits.

One of the most involved parts of this pattern is hemming the ruffles.

To avoid making this unnecessarily difficult, pick a fabric that doesn’t fray too much and one you can hem with one turn, as double turning adds bulk.

To neaten the edges when creating the hem, you’ll also need to allow for some tucks for the additional fabric, as the ruffles are cut on the curve. You can keep the tucks to a minimum by keeping the hem as small as possible.

Prym size 60 or 70 universal sewing machine needles, £2.49 for five, minervacrafts.com

cut the NECKLINE

With this pattern, it’s essential that you cut the neckline with care, paying attention to the seam allowance to ensure that it is kept equal – any discrepancies in this area will be easily visible.

You should also make sure that you pick a suitable interfacing, ideally one which adds support but still retains some flexibility.

choose a THREAD

Our dressmaker, Sarah Oecken, made this garment in a satin crepe fabric. If you’re planning to use a similar material, then opt for a lightweight cotton or polycotton thread. Machine embroidery thread can also be a good alternative, but make sure that no matter which one you choose, you use the same thread for the bobbin.

choose your FABRIC When it comes to creating option D, your fabric choice is crucial to its success. Once the garment is constructed, you may catch a glimpse of the reverse side of the fabric as the ruffles cascade along the arms, so you must ensure that the material you opt for is either reversible or a complementary tone.

We used Prada Self Lined Stretch Crepe Suiting Dress Fabric, £13.99 per metre, minervacrafts.com

behind the SEAMS

With the detailed neckline and sleeves on this pattern, it can be tricky to keep track of the seam allowance. To help, mark it up on your sewing machine plate with a thin line of masking tape. Another top tip for ensuring you have an even seam allowance is by having an iron to hand throughout the project; use it to press the seams on the neck piece before you stitch it into place.

We used Mettler Seralon Polyester General thread in Iced Pink and White for our ruffle dress, £1.59 for 100m, minervacrafts.com 10

sewmag.co.uk

Try Crushed Texture Shimmer Satin Dress Fabric, £10.99 per metre, minervacrafts.com

to find out what your second pattern has to offer, turn to p13

STITCH Stitch it ITwith WITH

4 on-trend party dresses

your free pattern

style selector

style a

FAB RUFFLES Make this garment with a ruffled, three-quarter length sleeve– perfect for dancing the night away at your Christmas party!

style b

MIX & MATCH The sky’s the limit with this statement design! Why opt for one sleeve when you can combine two?

style c

SUPER STYLISH Want to be bold but with a more traditional sleeve?

Choose style C which features the trumpet.

style d

FRILL FACTOR If you’re looking to sport a current ontrend style, then look no further! Option D blends ruffled sleeves with the en vogue cold shoulder.

why we made Style D

This option was chosen by our dressmaker Sarah Oecken, as the gorgeous ruffled cold shoulder is perfect for party season. Try this style yourself to practise stitching French seams and inserting an invisible zip.

11

sewmag.co.uk

Stitch it with

the perfect

size

the right

fit

what’s your size?

Remember to use your body measurements to find your pattern size, NOT the ready-to-wear size that you’d buy in high street shops. Visit simplicitynewlook.com to find out more about taking accurate measurements and getting the right fit for your shape.

STITCHING FRENCH DARTS

This type of dart sits diagonally on the side seam and starts a couple of inches above the waist, close to the apex of the bust. Unlike most darts, they are curved rather than straight, which means they don’t follow the grain lengthwise or crosswise, so take care when sewing and pressing to prevent it from stretching out of shape.

To reinforce the shape, add a piece of lightweight polyester stay-tape to one of the dart stitch lines and sew the dart from the widest point at the side seam towards the end.

STYLISH SLEEVES

Option C gives you the opportunity to add contrasting trumpet sleeves. For this, choose double georgette or lace to create a soft, flowing drape. If you opt for lace, then remember to skip the backstitching stage when starting and stopping seams, as this will cause the material to be pushed into the needle plate. Instead, make sure there’s enough thread at the ends to tie a knot, or use a four-thread overlocker to fasten off.

FASTEN UP

No matter which design you choose, this pattern will need you to insert an invisible zip. If you stitch the zip onto a satin or crepe material, then make sure you keep the fabric taut and the zip tape loose when sewing. By doing so, you’ll be able to avoid the material gathering up along the zip.

12

sewmag.co.uk

es with Style B com flared style sleeves

Stitch it with

with your

get creative

enclosed pattern

Your Simplicity 8454 pattern offers FOUR GORGEOUS TOPS which will allow you to continue stitching ruffles, narrow hems and darts. Take your pick when it comes to sleeve styles, too: pop on capped for a casual tee, three-quarter length frills for a more elegant look, or go all out with long-sleeved ruffles. This stunning pattern is a match made in heaven for lightweight cotton, crepe and satin.

your free pattern

Embroidery frame in beechwood, 8mm x 13cm. £3.49, visit prym.com for stockists

a delicate TOUCH

take the PLUNGE

Our dressmaker made this top in a samba crepe, which is similar to scuba; however, this versatile fabric certainly isn’t limited to underwater activities! It’s great for hemming ruffles because it’s stretchy and doesn’t fray.

button UP

Making this garment can be pretty speedy as you don’t need to attach fiddly zippers; instead, simply fasten the back with a button and elastic loop.

Alternatively, if you’d prefer to colour match the loop to the top, you can use a piece of ribbon rather than elastic. The fact that this make needs one button means that you can pick a precious gem you’ve been saving from your stitchy stash and secure it onto the back of this garment.

If you’ve chosen a fairly plain fabric for the body of your garment, then don’t be afraid to jazz it up a bit with a spot of embroidery. Try adding a stitchy floral decoration to the yoke and sleeves for a personalised look.

Before you sew on your design, practise stem and satin stitch on a piece of scrap fabric first to see if you need to amend it.

Our dressmaker used Lady McElroy Meadow Haven Four-way Stretch Samba Crepe Suiting Dress Fabric in Blush, £20.99 per metre, minervacrafts.com

hem that FLOUNCE

The ruffles on this pattern can be a little bit fiddly as they need to have narrow hems. To make this easier, use a narrow hem foot; this is designed to fold the fabric edge over twice and sew it down flat with a straight stitch, which sits along the inside of the fold.

bind and TRIM

Finish off the neckline with a piece of bias binding which you can create yourself. If the fabric you’re using is quite thick and won’t fray, then there’s no need to enclose the edges inside the neck binding, as this can get a little bulky. If you’d rather opt for a shop- bought piece of bias tape, then why not go bold and choose a contrasting material, while taking advantage of the lightweight tape to keep the neck neat?

staying on STYLE

Try this silky crepe de chine in Floralnova, £26.99 per metre, minervacrafts.com

Go all out with frills and flounce with this on-trend pattern. You can create everything from a cool and casual look with style B which has draped capped sleeves, to a cute chic top with yoke and sleeve ruffles with design A. 13

sewmag.co.uk

Stitch it with

dream

4 chic

machines 3 party£299 ready dresses

ruffle tops

BARGAIN BUY!

INNOV-IS A16

This model has 16 built-in stitches, a one-step auto-size buttonhole function and a handy quick-set bobbin which makes threading speedy and simple. The Innov-is A16 also has a seven-point feed with an extra long J foot to ensure smooth stitching, and an automatic your reverse stitch tofree create a neat, professional finish.

150

STITCHES!

£499

Trousers, £19.50, Marks & Spencer, shoes, £35, Faith at Debenhams, bracelets £8.50 per set, Next

Necklace, £17.50, Marks & Spencer; shoes, £22.99, New Look; bag, £15.99, New Look; bracelet, model’s own

pattern

why we made Style D

INNOV-IS A150

Not only does this machine have a whopping 150 built-in stitches, but it also has a detachable quick reference guide so you can easily find the best stitch for your project. This model includes four styles of lettering for monograms, labels and decorative designs, as well as the ability to create your own sewing patterns by combining up to 70 stitches.

Our dressmaker, Sarah Oecken, shows how to make the most of the frilled sleeves and pretty peplum hem with a structured scuba-style fabric.

Visit brothersewing.co.uk Sizes

10-18 (US)

Sizes 10-22 (US)

Next month’s 2 FREE patterns 14

sewmag.co.uk

CAPSULE COLLECTION

Complete your wardrobe with all the garments you’ll ever need, from party dresses and chic trousers, to stylish tops and on-trend coats.

sew YOU!

We always look forward to receiving pictures of your incredible makes, and this month is no exception!

My Vogue V9253 dress had its first outing to the Birmingham Creative Craft Show! I used jersey from my local market and omitted the zip, I also stitched up the front so I felt more comfortable when wearing it.

Charmaine West

This is the first time I’ve ever used a sewing machine by myself, and to commemorate the occasion, I created The Great British Sewing Bee pin cushion! It’s a little rough around the edges, but I’m proud of it!

Paula Edwardes

Recently, Liberty London has provided me with a lot of inspiration – now I have a flurry of little patterned mice on my sewing desk!

Amanda Barnes

I only started sewing six months ago and I’m completely hooked! I have two young kids and there’s nothing I love more than to stitch them clothes. This is a Moana dress and Aristocats skirt, both complete with matching headbands.

Rachel Hutchinson

chosen by you Find Bobbin the Each month on Facebook, we ask you to help us choose Robin on a name for our issue’s mascot.

p73

Say Hello to Bobbin!

“I chose Bobbin the Robin as the name for your mascot not only because it rhymes and is sewing related but because my son calls the robin that sits above our pony’s stable ‘Bobbin’.”

Stephanie Robilliard, Sew reader Help us to choose a name for next month’s mascot at facebook.com/sewhq 17

sewmag.co.uk

This is my first make since moving to Filey. I had to check my machine still works here, so I sewed this chic dress!

Carol Gregory

Stephanie has won a set of Aerofil sew-all threads from madeira.co.uk

Continued overleaf

social

Sponsored by Minerva Crafts

Write in and WIN! I’ve finally finished my son’s advent calendar – it’s only taken me three years!

I now need to stitch one for my daughter in a lot less time.

It was my stepdaughter’s birthday recently, so I made her this yoga and meditation mat. She loved the longer length as I made it to fit her 34” legs!

Paula Edwardes This top from Sew’s August issue was my first attempt at dressmaking in over 30 years – I absolutely loved making it!

Edith Dixon

This is the dress I stitched for myself for my daughter’s Santorini wedding in May. Jane Tighe

Daisy, Twitter

My son dazzled in the costume I made him for his final primary school play.

Ruth Love

These are my Christmas table mats, napkins and napkin holders – all in my favourite fabric!

on the sew blog...

If you have a much-deserved staycation lined up this Christmas and you’re unsure of how to spend it, look no further!

www.minervacrafts.com

The stitchiest day of the year is making a comeback! If you’ve yet to experience the crafty celebration, then check out this post.

Joanne Vernon

The second stage of the British Sewing Awards has begun! Don’t miss out on the chance to vote for your favourites.

Read all of the latest stitchy news and more at sewmag.co.uk/blog 18

sewmag.co.uk

sew YOU!

e r a h s & h c t i st

HHHH HH

This month our Star Letter winner will receive a bumper selection of fabrics from Minerva Crafts, worth £50. minervacrafts.com

! hy triumphs with Sew Share your latest stitc WOODLAND WONDER

sew

H

STAR

My cross-over baby dress.

Audrey

letter

H

WE CAN DO IT

POPPIN’ PLAYSUIT

My most recent make was inspired by Rosie the Riveter.

These vintage-style dungarees are a Simplicity 8447 pattern, and I first wore them at the Processions event to celebrate 100 years of women receiving the vote in the UK.

I recently created Sew Over It’s Poppy playsuit Kelly-Lou Preece

SO THOUGHTFUL A memory dog made from a treasured piece of clothing.

Gail McKnight Anderson

Lee Kneen-Man

PRETTY KITTY I stitched Clementine Cat from your September issue!

Caroline Wiffen

I upcycled an old coat to create this over-the-shoulder bag.

Lucy Picksley

My son requested an Anakin Skywalker Jedi outfit – he was very specific about what he wanted and was pleased with the end result!

Laura Hargreaves

TOTALLY TERRIFIC My handmade pocket cushion.

Camelia

Share your makes via social media @sewhq or email to editorial@sewmag.co.uk 19

sewmag.co.uk

go for glam with

SPARKLE & SHEEN

1

Add a sprinkle of glitter, a dash of sparkle and a pastel colour palette, and what do you have? A selection of fabulous materials to help you stitch the perfect festive outfit! Don’t wait for Santa to leave fabric under the tree – treat yourself to lightweight mesh with hand-stitched details, gorgeous brocade in becoming pink, and ivory lace adorned with feathers to create dreamy garments. We know that sewing with this type of material can be tricky, that’s why Sew have also lined up a sequin masterclass on page 37.

1 2 3 4 5 6

Sequin fabric in blush, £14.75 per metre, abakhan.co.uk Feather lace in ivory, £32.99 per metre, minervacrafts.com Sequin fabric in rose gold, £12 per metre, flo-jofabrics.co.uk Metallic brocade in pink, £17.80 per metre, abakhan.co.uk Rain glitter mesh in silver, £16 per metre, abakhan.co.uk Textured wool blend in pink, £10.99 per metre, minervacrafts.com

2

3

Bargain

FABRIC BUY!

4

5

20

sewmag.co.uk

6

Bargain

FABRIC BUY!

Add some glitz to your wardrobe with

KIRSTY KIMONO

sew

free pattern download sewmag.co.uk /templates

stitch a WRAP TOP Get started

• Main fabric, 1.8m (140cm)

Sizes 8-20

Cutting guide

Left front: cut one in main fabric, and one in interfacing Right front: cut one in main fabric, and one in interfacing Left front facing: cut one Right front facing: cut one Back: cut one on the fold Back neck facing: cut one Sleeve facing: cut one pair in main fabric, and one in interfacing Left belt: cut one Right belt: cut one 1.5cm seam allowance used throughout.

Looking for an easy everyday outfit with just the right amount of glitz?

Search no more – introducing this gorgeous kimono wrap top by Julia Claridge! The project is ideal for practising cutting and attaching facings, hemming and understitching, and can be easily dressed up with heels or made casual with a pair of pumps – either way, this elegant ensemble will have you looking classy this Christmas!

facings onto the sleeve edges.

Neaten the raw edges of the sleeve facings, then understitch.

3

With right sides together and the raw edges and notches matched, pin the left belt to the left front and the right belt to the right front.

Stitch to secure. Join the shoulder seams of the front facing to the back neck facing, right sides together.

4

Neaten the inner edge of the facing, then with right sides together and the seams matched, pin to the neck edge, ensuring the belt is sandwiched in the middle and facing inwards. Stitch, trim and clip where necessary.

Understitch the facing, pivoting where the belt is inserted.

5

Turn the facing back at the lower hem edge with right sides together, then mark a line or pin 2.5cm above the raw edge. Stitch the facing onto the top to create a neat corner, then trim, turn through and press.

1

6

2

7

Download and print the pattern from sewmag.co.uk, then follow the cutting guide.

With right sides facing, stitch the belt pieces together, leaving the short straight edge open, then trim, turn through the opening and press.

Join the shoulder seams with right sides facing, then neaten the raw edges of the shoulder and side seams on the back and front. With right sides together, pin and stitch the sleeve

With right sides together, join the side seams, leaving a gap on the left side, in between the notches.

Reinforce the stitching on both sides of the gap.

Press the neck facing inside the garment, pin and tack in place, then repeat for the sleeve hems.

Press a double turned hem, then stitch in place with the facing, sewing close to the inner edges.

22

sewmag.co.uk

sew DRESSMAKING

Core skill:

UNDERSTITCHING

Projects exclusive to

This machine stitch goes through the facing and seam allowances; it’s invisible from the right side and helps the underside to lie flat. Join the outer and facing pieces as normal, clip any notches or curves, open out the seam and press the allowance towards the facing, then pin. Stitch a line parallel to the seam, sewing the allowance to the facing. Press onto the inside to finish.

sew!

sew

SHOPPER ************************

GLITZ AND GLAM Add a touch of razzle dazzle to your outfit with this Atelier Brunette sparkly cotton lawn fabric. ÂŁ15.99 per metre, minervacrafts.com ************************ thank you for shopping!

23

sewmag.co.uk

sew

free pattern download sewmag.co.uk /templates

stitch a

LEATHER SKIRT Get started

Discover the magic of metallics with the

LAYLA SKIRT It’s time to wake up your winter workwear with this easy number from Amanda Walker. The classic pencil shape is elevated to new heights with a hint of sparkling gold vegan leather on the contrast waistband and pocket flaps, then finished off with figure-hugging darts and a concealed zip.

Vintage va-va-voom at its finest!

• Fabric, 2m (110cm) • Vegan leather, 30cm square • Concealed zip, 30cm

Project exclusive to

Cutting guide

Front skirt: cut one on the fold Back skirt: cut one pair Side panel: cut one pair Pocket flaps: cut two from main fabric and two in vegan leather Waistband: cut one from vegan leather

sew!

1.5cm seam allowance used throughout unless otherwise stated.

3

Position the flaps onto the horizontal edges of the cutout area on the front skirt, match the notches and stitch in place. Clip into the dot marked on the front skirt to release the corner. Lay the side panel over the top of the flaps, then pin and stitch as far as the dots to sandwich the flap in between.

Match the vertical edges of the side panel and skirt, matching the notches and pivoting the piece on the dots below the clipped corners.

The stitching line should join to the end of the horizontal row and run at a right angle from it.

1

4

2

5

Download the template at sewmag.co.uk, print and follow the cutting guide. To make the back skirt, neaten the side and centre-back edges. Fold and stitch the darts in place using the notches on the top of the back skirt pattern, then press the darts towards the centre back. Match the back pieces together, right sides facing, through the centre back. Pin, then stitch from the top of the pleat marked with a dot, as far as the zip notch.

Match the front and back skirt pieces together along the side edges, then pin and stitch in place. Position the waistband along the skirt waistline, matching the raw edges together; you’ll need to make sure the waistband centre-back edges are running in line with the centre edges of the gap left for the zip in the centre-back of the skirt. Pin in place, then stitch together.

Stitch the concealed zip into the centre-back opening and up half of the waistband, using a zipper foot. Fold and press the seam allowance along the two sides of the opening. Open out the seam allowance and with right sides facing, place the opened zip face down. Match the teeth to the crease line in the seam allowance and pin in place.

On the left-hand pleat, press the fold line indicated on the pattern, and on the right-hand side, fold and press a 1.5cm seam allowance. Neaten the side edges of the front skirt, then position the pocket flaps over the face of the leather variations. Stitch the two together around the curved edges, leaving the top straight edges open.

Trim the seam allowance close to the seam line, then turn out the flaps right sides facing. Tease out the curves, then press flat, covering with a cloth to prevent melting.

6

Stitch to the fold line of the waistband. Back-stitch, then sew the other side of the zip in place. Thread the zip pull

24

sewmag.co.uk

sew DRESSMAKING through to the right side and pull up to close. Fold the waistband in half lengthways inside the skirt, folding the centre back seam allowances over the edges of the zip; these sections can then be hand-stitched in place.

TOP TIP!

7

Pin along the waistband on the right side of the skirt, then seal the waistband by stitching in the ditch; this refers to the seam between the top of the skirt and the waistband.

Neaten the base of the skirt, then press the 4cm hem onto the inside. Fold the pleat onto the right side of the skirt and stitch along the folded line of the hem.

Turn the pleat back to the wrong side, tease out the corner and press flat.

Cut on the weft grain to add detail to the finished skirt.

8

Turn the folded hem out onto the right side, towards the under right-hand side of the pleat, and stitch the 4cm hem along the pressed 1.5cm edge. Turn back to the wrong side, tease out the corner and press.

Hand-stitch the pressed hem with hemming stitch. Hold the top of the pleat in place by stitching through all the layers at an angle on the right side of the skirt.

sew

SHOPPER

Top £9.90 Uniqlo. Shoes £35 Faith at Debenhams. Necklace £16.50 Wallis at Debenhams. Bag £15.99 New Look

************************

MATTE GOLD This vegan faux leather offers oodles of potential with its soft matte surface and practical spandex knit backing. £16.96 per metre, girlcharlee.co.uk

SEVENBERRY LINEN You’ll go dotty for this Sevenberry indigo print in a rustic cotton linen. £16 per metre, drapersdaughter.com ************************ thank you for shopping!

25

sewmag.co.uk

Lauren Guthrie’s

I

TOP TOOLS for coat making

’ve enjoyed making several coats over the years. It’s the kind of project you can really get your teeth into and, when you break down each individual stage, often it’s not as complicated as you’d think – so, if you are looking for the next challenge, I can highly recommend it. The other huge benefit is that once the weather has cooled down, you get to wear it all the time!

To make the coat more durable and to prevent it stretching out, interface the outer fabric. Depending on the thickness of the wool, you might consider interfacing the whole coat – not just selected parts. It’s easier to ‘spot fuse’ the interfacing before cutting out the fabric. £7.20 per metre, guthrie-ghani.co.uk

4

1

1 COAT PATTERNS

The Closet Case Patterns Clare Coat version B has a simple construction as the sleeves are raglan and the front just calls for press studs. If you’re looking for a design to stretch your skillset, the Grainline Patterns Cascade Duffle coat is great! From £16 each, guthrie-ghani.co.uk

2

2 STRETCH NEEDLE When sewing through thick fabric or a lot of layers, a stretch needle can help prevent skipped stitches.

The eye of the needle is higher than normal, meaning that a bigger loop is created when the stitch is formed so it can cope with the extra thickness. £2.55 per pack, guthrie-ghani.co.uk 26

3

3 NEEDLE TWISTER

Transferring pattern markings onto woollen fabric is more precise when you use a tailor’s tack rather than chalk. I like to keep my needles handy in this little case: there is a magnet at the bottom that the needles are drawn to, then you twist the holder to raise them up. guthrie-ghani.co.uk

sewmag.co.uk

4 WOODEN CLAPPER

If you’re making a coat from a wool or wool mix fabric, this pressing tool will help you to get the seam allowances laying flat with a much sleeker, professional finish. Use the iron to steam the fabric, then press down hard with the clapper over the seam allowances. £24, sewessential.co.uk

THE SEWING JOURNAL FOR THOSE WHO LOVE TO SEW The perfect place to record each project you make

PRE-ORDER NOW! In stock October 2018

✎ ✎ ✎ ✎

Use code SEW10OFF for 10% off!

Space for fabric swatches Record the size you made Make notes about changes to the pattern Record materials and keep details of costs and resources

With space for 27 projects, it is a great way to keep a record of your makes

www.thesewingjournal.com

@thesewingjournal.com

Get on-the-go hygge with the

LAURA JACKET sew

free pattern download sewmag.co.uk /templates

A gorgeous asymmetrical jacket like this one by Amanda Walker is a staple for every woman’s wardrobe. It can be combined with so many different outfits – pair it with jeans for a casual ‘oh, I just threw this on earlier’ look, or wear it over a high-neck dress to channel office chic style. Working with boiled wool means that there’s no need to hem, so you can hone in on other techniques such as edge stitching – this really is a treat to wear and make!

sew an ASYMMETRIC JACKET Get started

• Boiled wool, 1.6m (150cm) • Bias binding, 2.5cm wide

Sizes 8-20

Cutting guide

Front: cut one pair, then cut along the marked line for the left-hand side Back: cut one on the fold Sleeve: cut one pair 1.5cm seam allowance used throughout unless otherwise stated.

1

Download and print the pattern at sewmag.co.uk, then cut according to the cutting guide. Lay the front jacket pieces on top of one another, wrong sides facing, and match the centre back collar. Stitch the seams together, then press the seam allowance open.

2

Position the back onto the front piece, right sides facing, and match the shoulder seams. Clip up to the dot marked on the front piece to release the neckline – this will enable the back and collar neck to match. Pin across the shoulders and neckline, matching the centre

back neckline to the back collar seam. Stitch the seam together in a continuous line.

3

Open and press the seam allowance across the back neck. Pin bias binding over the seam allowance, then turn in both ends and edgestitch in place.

Match the side seams from the front and back side edges together, stitch, then press the seams open.

4

Adjust the stitch length to five, then use gathering stitch around the sleeve heads, starting from the front notch and finishing at the back notches. Match, pin and sew the underarm sleeve seams together, right sides facing, then press the seams open.

Lightly pull the gathering threads, then place the sleeves, matching the notches, into the armholes.

Pin and stitch in place.

5

Make three buttonholes as marked on the front pattern piece. Hand-stitch the buttons to the adjacent places on the left-hand side of the jacket.

28

sewmag.co.uk

sew DRESSMAKING

Core skill:

EDGESTITCHING

Jeans, £32, next.co.uk

An edgestitch is a straight line of sewing along the edge of the fabric; it is a reinforcing and decorative stitch. You can create it with an all-purpose machine foot – simply align the needle 3mm away from the seam ditch and ensure the distance is kept even at all times.

sew

SHOPPER ************************

PRETTY IN PINK This 100% pure wool from Dragonfly Fabrics is a completely natural product and is fantastic for creating warm clothing – it really is as soft as it looks! £34 per metre, dragonflyfabrics.co.uk ************************ thank you for shopping!

29

sewmag.co.uk

sewing

SoS Create the perfect party outfit, thanks to our posse of experts

Q

I’ve seen people revamp their shoes by covering them in fabric and adding embellishments.

I would love to know how to do this – can you help me?

Pamela Wheatcroft

Pat says

Put your best foot forward with this To revamp any shoe, take two 38cm upcycling project, sewmag.co.uk squares of rayon and pin one on the top bias of the shoe so that the toe is aligned with the square corner. The process begins at the outer sole edge (OSE), then continues along the centre back line (CBL), and ends at the shoe opening (SO). Lay the fabric flat towards the toe and pin, then trim the excess, leaving a 3mm seam allowance. Take a small brush and draw a thin line of glue around the toe above the outer sole without touching the pinned fabric. Fold the 3mm allowance towards the wrong side and finger press the folded edge against the glue. Repeat this for both sides and finish with the back. Lay the second piece of fabric towards the back and pin, then trim one edge following the CBL and glue. Leave a 3mm allowance on the opposite edge, fold it in and glue. Now, remove the pins and trim the fabric 3mm from the SO, then glue along the inside edge of the SO and finger press the allowance towards the inside of the shoe. Repeat with the other shoe.

Q

The perfect party dress has to be one covered in sequins, but I struggle to sew with this type of fabric.

Can you give me any advice?

Dee Wyatt

Tilly says

Frill dress, £75, DEBENHAMS. COM

Find our sequin jacket on p37

Sewing with sequins can be tricky and time-consuming, but your finished garment will turn heads at any soirée you attend! My first tip is to cut the sequinned fabric as a single layer rather than on the fold, making sure the sequins face downwards.

Cutting through sequins can dull the blades of your scissors, so spare your Rainbow sequin dress, £40, tesco.com/clothing favourite shears! Take the time to unpick or snip sequins off of the seam allowances, as this will create smooth finished seams and stop your needles from snapping. If your fabric has a knit base, use a regular sewing machine with a ballpoint or stretch needle, not Dress, £49, an overlocker. Finally, finger press rather than iron debenhams.com your garment.

30

sewmag.co.uk

here to

help

TILLY WALNES

PAT BRAVO

tillyandthebuttons.com

artgalleryfabrics.com

The Creative Director of Art Gallery Fabrics aims to bring a chic and modern perspective to the quilting industry.

Tilly is the founder of Tilly and the Buttons, a store that creates easy-to-use sewing patterns, books and online workshops.

Q

I want to make a party dress which isn’t too fitted at the waist, can be worn with a strapped bra and will suit short women. Any tips to help me create it?

Natalie Murtagh

Lisa says

Party dresses are my favourite garments to plan and sew – I love how much fun you can have with patterns and fabric!

Sew Over It’s Eve dress is floaty and feminine, which works for a wide variety of body shapes. It covers the shoulders, so no bra straps are on show, and thanks to the wrap style, it can be fastened to sit comfortably around the waist – either cinch it in or leave it slightly looser. The dress has two different lengths: a longer, dipped hem and a shorter, straight one which can both be adapted to suit your height.

If you’re looking for something with a little bit more structure, Sew Over It’s Zoe dress will work fantastically. It’s a semi-fitted shift with lovely princess seams that gently sculpt the dress to flatter your shape. The waist isn’t massively form-fitting, meaning it’s still comfortable to wear. The dress can also be shortened but, depending on where you’d like the hem to sit, you might not need to – I’m 5’6” and the garment sits just above my knee.

tip!

Take the time to unpick or snip sequins off of the seam allowances so you don't dull your scissors.

Create Sew Over It’s Doris dress, £8.50-£14.50, sewoverit.co.uk

LISA COMFORT

Lisa set up Sew Over It, an online and London-based sewing community, to encourage everyone to pick up a needle and thread.

top 4 sewoverit.co.uk

PATTERNS

You’ve found the perfect sparkly fabric, the glitzy embellishments and even the ideal dancing shoes – all that’s missing? A party dress pattern!

Floaty & feminine Florence Dress

Belle of the ball Zoe Dress

Iconic frock Joan Dress

Ultimate party girl Elsie Dress

ALL PATTERNS ARE FROM SEW OVER IT – VISIT SEWOVERIT.CO.UK FOR DETAILS.

Got a stitchy question for us? Email us at editorial@sewmag.co.uk or message us at facebook.com/sewhq and we’ll do our best to answer it!

31

sewmag.co.uk

Imagination without limits.

And all the necessary threads.

The creative needleworker needs three things: thread, colour and imagination. All three are supplied by Mettler. High-quality threads for every requirement and application. An endless variety of colours for every style. And imagination, brought to life by the endless application possibilities of our threads.

32

sewmag.co.uk

Stitch the Look

WHY NOT TRY?

LUSCIOUS VELVET

1

When thinking of quintessential Christmas materials, there are a few that come to mind: metallics, sequins, tartan and of course, the queen of festive fabric – velvet!

Velvet is made from woven tufted fibres which have a short dense pile and, because of its distinctively soft texture, it’s often associated with nobility – hence why we feel like a princess when wearing it. The material was introduced to Baghdad at the beginning of the 14th century, then exported to Venice where it made it’s way through Europe and into our wardrobes.

2

3

4

“With Christmas slowly starting to creep up on us, it’s time to invite luxurious velvet into our festive creations. Whether you’re making a glamorous dress for a night out or a bolero for a Christmas ball, velvet adds a touch of texture and is one of the easiest fabrics to work with”

5

Matt Strange, Calico Laine

1 Green crushed velvet, £3.99 per metre 2 Light blue crushed velvet, £3.99 per metre 3 Raspberry crushed velvet, £3.99 per metre 4 Royal blue crushed velvet, £3.99 per metre 5 Yellow crushed velvet, £3.99 per metre

Velvet shirt, £130, purecollection. com

All of the featured fabrics are available from calicolaine.co.uk

33

sewmag.co.uk

H

E EB

S T FR O M I N

DE

SI Z

P

ES

16 4-

E

NDIE pattern T

N

DE NT

D E SI G N E R S

SIZE S

Siara dress

by Ralph Pink

16 6-

Difficulty: I really love the femininity brought by the transparency and nod to the 50s. Use metallic-toned fabric for a subtle shimmer for

SIZ

your New Year’s Eve party dress. Adding embroidery and feathers will embed Valentino’s Glamour, too.” £10, ralphpink-patterns.com

E S 8 8-1

Paper

Drawstring dress

Trina dress

by Trend Patterns

Paper

by Victory Patterns

Difficulty:

Difficulty:

The pattern’s body-skimming silhouette is accentuated by threaded drawstring ribbons through the bodice and lower body, while the ruched effect flatters the waist and hips. Make this pattern party-ready by sewing with a stretch-silk. Match it with slingback pumps and prepare to dance all night.”

The wrap silhouette and waterfall kimono sleeves will make this dress the most luxurious and comfortable party outfit you will ever own. After the Christmas season, wear it over a turtleneck and jeans. If you want to avoid the traditional red or green dress, I highly recommend looking for crepe de chine in a pastel grape colour-wave – I’m obsessed!”

From £14, victorypatterns.com

£25, trendpatterns.co.uk 34

sewmag.co.uk

SI Z E S

sew DRESSMAKING 18 8-

Notes from Rachel

Grasshopper dress

This month, I’m inspired by the most recognised fashion house when it comes to evening wear: Valentino.

The gowns are crafted in ultra-feminine fabrics like lace, silk and chiffon, featuring delicate embroidery and the signature colour – red. 2018 Valentino is now in the hands of talented designer Pierpaolo Piccioli. The latest collections combine a strong flag of femininity and assertiveness; nodding to a woman’s spirit of rebellion with a sense of modesty. You’ll find lots of midi lengths, floaty styles and large florals, influenced by the 50s brand history of ‘dream dresses’.”

by Capital Chic Patterns Difficulty:

Valentino defined his clients as beautiful and sexy. If you are looking for a cocktail dress that will highlight, or even create, an hourglass silhouette for the festivities, look no further than this pattern.

The curved optical illusion panels at the sides will draw the eye inward, making your waist appear slimmer. No need to skip on delicious mince pies.” £10, capitalchicpatterns.com

“Valentino’s latest collections combine a strong flag of femininity and assertiveness with midi lengths and floaty styles”

SIZE S

TRIED & TESTED

by Rachel

22 4-

Stella shirt dress

by Named Clothing Difficulty: My midi dress is made from windowpane chiffon I picked up in a fabric sale years ago. The design definitely speaks to a dreamlike femininity, which I’m learning to embrace in my wardrobe. The long ties at the neck can be made into an elegant pussy-bow or left loosely knotted. Equally glamorous, statement shoes will make this an effortless party outfit.” £11.70, namedclothing.com

Follow Rachel on Instagram @houseofpinheiro 35

sewmag.co.uk

Rachel Pinheiro houseofpinheiro.com

Paper

Sewing with Tilly

T

KEEP CALM AND SEW ON THE BIAS

o put it simply, sewing on the bias is when the fabric is cut at a 45-degree angle to the straight grain. It can be a bit fiddly – sometimes we only have to look at our fabric for it to stretch out of shape – but it’s a lovely way to create a flowing garment which has an elegant drape. As always, Tilly is here to make your stitching woes disappear with some quick tips for stabilising, handling and finishing a bias-cut creation!

1

2

3

4

5

6

Once you’ve cut out your pieces, stay stitch the bias cut edges to help prevent the diagonal edge from stretching as you’re handling it.

Start sewing symmetrical pieces from the same end – this is usually from the wider section of the fabric towards the narrower part – so the seams will be equal if they do stretch.

Hang your garment up for a day prior to hemming it – it’s a good idea to let gravity do its job before you finish it.

Many bias-cut garments are made up of panels, so you might notice that one panel is a bit longer than the other.

Avoid handling the fabric pieces before sewing them, don’t dangle the materials by the corners when transporting them, and take care not to let them hang off the sewing table. If you see any diagonal ripples, hold the fabric up slightly, keeping the seams together with your fingers, so that they run under the presser foot evenly.

To fix the length differences, even out the hemline with fabric scissors before machine hemming it. Don’t panic if your bias-sewn seams look a little ripply, you can neaten them up by setting your iron to the highest setting your fabric can take then use the steam to press the seams.

Pins are vital to hold the bias seams together before stitching. Start by matching up the corners and notches, then ease together the rest of the seams to fit. If the seam lines aren’t matching up, measure the raw edges against the pattern pieces to see if they’ve stretched, then you can trim them down if necessary.

It’s a good idea to test pressing on a fabric scrap first if you’re unsure. For those of you who are unsure of what stay stitching entails, it is sewing a line on a single piece of fabric, roughly 10mm from the raw edge and within the seam allowance, so you don’t see it once the seams are sewn.

For patterns, workshops and more from Tilly, pay a visit to tillyandthebuttons.com 36

sewmag.co.uk

sew DRESSMAKING

sew

free pattern download sewmag.co.uk /templates

Project exclusive to

sew!

Complete your Christmas outfit with the dazzling

SASHA JACKET Stitching sequinned fabric can be challenging, but with a bit of patience and a sprinkle of determination, it is easily achievable! Amanda Walker's jacket is certainly a one-of-a-kind make – the fabric we’ve chosen allows you to brush the sequins in opposite directions to reveal different colours: rock a block coloured jacket or give it a brush to transform the garment into a trendy two-tone piece! The next few pages are jam-packed with step-by-step instructions and expert advice to help you whip up this sequin jacket effortlessly!

37

sewmag.co.uk

sew

free pattern download sewmag.co.uk /templates

stitch a SEQUIN JACKET Get started

• Fabric, two-tone sequin mesh, 1.6m • Satin bias binding, 3m

Sizes 8-20

Finished length Small: 59cm

Medium: 60.5cm Large: 62cm

Cutting guide Front: cut one on the fold Back: cut one on the fold Sleeves: cut one pair 1.5cm seam allowance used throughout unless otherwise stated.

1

Download the pattern at sewmag.co.uk, print and follow the cutting guide. Fold the jacket front piece on top of the back, right sides facing. Match the shoulder edges, pin and stitch together, then open the seam allowance. Hand-sew a row of running stitches around the head of the sleeves, starting from the front notch and working towards the back notches.

Match, pin and sew the underarm sleeves together, right sides facing, then open the seam allowance. Pull up the running threads, then place the sleeves, matching the notches, into the jacket armholes. Pair the side and underarm seams of the sleeves together, then pin and stitch in place.

Double fold the mesh selvedge edge at the jacket base inside the garment and pin in place, then hand slip-stitch the mesh hem to secure. Repeat this process around the base of the sleeves.

If you prefer, the sleeves and jacket base can be bound similar to the front edges.

Press the bias binding in half, then slot it over the raw front and neck edges, ensuring you leave extra room at the base to turn in. Edgestitch the binding in place on the face of the jacket, being mindful that you don't stretch the fabric.

If you have a machine binding attachment, use this instead and don't press the binding in half.

2

3

4 38

sewmag.co.uk

sew DRESSMAKING

Amanda Walker’s top tips for SEWING WITH SEQUINS Use extra fine, sharp needles and pins to make sewing with sequins a lot easier! A size 60 or 70 is ideal. l Cut a scrap of sequinned fabric and put it to one side – these spare sequins may come in handy if you notice any 'bald spots' or need to neaten any seam lines. l Make sure you stitch slowly and carefully to avoid breaking the needle.

l

Core skill:

TWO-TONE TIPS “When working with two-toned sequin fabric, make sure you identify the nap (the direction the sequins face) so all of the pattern pieces can be cut with the design going the same way.

Also, when pressing this garment, be mindful that sequins are plastic so are likely to melt. Iron on the wrong side of the fabric and always use a presser cloth.”

Vicki Herron, Minerva Crafts

sew SHOPPER FISHSCALE FABRIC Choose this matte oyster and silver reversible combo material to pull off the two-tone trend.

BLUE HUES Fall head over heels for this glitzy blue and silver sequin fabric.

All fabric is £27.99 per metre from minervacrafts.com 39

sewmag.co.uk

PRETTY IN PINK Opt for silver and a splash of deep pink for a show-stopping sequin outfit – bring on the parties!

HAVE YOUR SAY AT SEWMAG.CO.UK/AWARDS

H VOTE FOR

H

YOUR SEWING FAVOURITES!

H

Y

ou’ve been nominating your go-tos from sewing machines to independent stores, and after totting up the scores, we’re thrilled to reveal the leading lights that you’ve been loving and using. Why not show your support and vote for your winners in each category? You can post the form below or head over to sewmag. co.uk/awards to vote. There’s fantastic prizes worth £1,700 from Create and Craft up for grabs, too!

This year, we’re delighted to welcome a panel of expert judges to the British Sewing Awards. Each personality will be invited to choose a winner in one category, relevant to their individual expertise.

Place your votes...

FAVE SEWING MACHINES

Entry-level sewing machine � Bernina � Brother � Janome � Pfaff � Singer All-round sewing machine � Bernina � Brother � Janome � Pfaff � Singer

Quilting sewing machine � Bernina � Brother � Janome � Pfaff � Singer Embroidery sewing machine � Bernina � Brother � Husqvarna � Janome � Singer Overlocker sewing machine

� Baby Lock � Bernina

WOW £1,700 PRIZES � Brother � Janome � Singer Top-spec sewing machine

� Bernina � Brother � Janome � Pfaff � Singer

BEST INDEPENDENT RETAILERS

Wales � J & B Sewing Machines, Cardiff

� Calico Kate, Lampeter � Lee Mill Fabrics, Swansea � Wheeler Fabrics, Machynlleth � White Gecko Craft Lounge, Dinas Powys

Ireland � CLOTH, Dublin � Sew Unique Fabrics, Bangor � Fiddlesticks Fabrics, Ballymena � Windmill Fabrics, Saintfield Co Down � Love Stitching, Annahilt Scotland

� Buttons and Blethers, Dunfermline � Kaleidoscope, Glasgow

OUR JUDGING PANEL Each judge will pick a winner from the categories, highlighted in yellow

FRANCES TOBIN

Independent pattern designer and founder of The Maker’s Atelier.

HANNAH READ-BALDREY

STUART HILLARD

Stylist, keen Instagrammer and best-selling author of Flowerbomb!

The Great British Sewing Bee star and regular Sew columnist.

40

sewmag.co.uk

WAYNE HEMINGWAY MBE

Award-winning designer and founding member of The Festival of Making.

HAVE YOUR SAY AT SEWMAG.CO.UK/AWARDS � Mandors Fabric Store, Glasgow � No.29, Fochabers � The Peacock and the Tortoise, Perth North of England � BST Fabrics, South Shields � Dolly's Haberdashery & Sewing School, Warrington � Leven Crafts, Guisborough � Oh Sew Sweet Shop @ The Hut, Wombwell � Sewcute Fabrics, Doncaster South of England

� Crafty Baba, Ipswich � Eclectic Maker, Worthing � Fabric HQ, Stoke Mandeville � Lady Sew and Sew, Henley-on-Thames � Sewisfaction, Wokingham Midlands

� The Cotton Patch, Birmingham � Crafty Sew & So, Leicester � Guthrie & Ghani, Birmingham � Hollies Haberdashery, Newcastle under-Lyme � The Sewing Cafe, Hinckley

PRODUCTS

Best new product for 2018 Cricut Easy Press Korbond House of Textures range Vlieseline Stretch Fix Tape Sew Easy Foldable Mat Hantex Organic Sewing Thread Best thread brand � Mettler � Madeira � Gütermann � DMC � Threaders by Crafter's Companion Best fabric brand Lewis & Irene Stoff & Stil Lady McElroy Art Gallery Fabrics Liberty London Best major pattern house � Simplicity � New Look � Butterick � Vogue � McCall's Best independent pattern house � Jennifer Lauren Handmade � Closet Case Patterns � Sew Over It � Tilly and the Buttons � Crafty Sew & So

Sewing with Knitted Fabrics – Wendy Ward Sew Your Own Active Wear – Melissa Fehr

Best sewing software brand � Husqvarna � Fittingly Sew (Soft Byte) � Brother � Bernina � Viking � Pfaff � Singer � Janome

Top sewing workshops/courses � Ministry of Craft � GillyBee Designs � The Sewing Cafe � Crafty Sew and So � Craftsy

Best fabric cutting machine

Best exhibition/event

� AccuQuilt GO! � Gemini by Crafter’s Companion � Brother ScanNcut � Silhouette Cameo � Cricut Maker

� The Knitting and Stitching Show � Festival of Quilts � The Creative Craft Show � Stitching, Sewing and

Best UK chain

� Craft4Crafters

Hobbycrafts, ExCel

� Hobbycraft � The Range � John Lewis � Sew Over It � Abakhan Fabrics

Most outstanding Sew Saturday event 2017 � Calico Kate � Sew Creative � Sew Busy � Gather N Sew � Sewing Room � Sewing Machines Direct

ONLINE

Best online retailer � Minerva Crafts � Create and Craft � Online Fabrics � Girl Charlee � Sew Box

YOUR DETAILS Title................Forename..........................

Surname......................................................

Best sewing blog

In association with

WIN! WIN! WIN!

Once you've voted, you'll be entered to win one of five fabulous prizes, worth £1,700!

H

• A day at Create and Craft with one of its sewing experts • A Butterick EB6100 computerised machine • A sewing bundle worth more than £500 • A computerised Singer model • Plus £100 credited to your Create and Craft account

H

Address........................................................

� The Fold Line � Rachel Pinheiro � Tilly and the Buttons � Mimi G � Lucky Lucille

.........................................................................

Postcode......................................................

Tel number...................................................

Email..............................................................

Best Instagram Rachel Pinheiro @houseofpinheiro Tilly Walnes @tillybuttons Lisa Comfort @sewoveritlondon Art Gallery Fabrics @artgalleryfabrics Portia Lawrie @portialawrie

Signature......................................................

Date...............................................................

� Tick this box to be entered into the prize draw

CLOSING DATE: 15th November 2018 FOR VOTES TERMS & CONDITIONS: All entries will be entered into the prize draw which is open to all UK residents aged 18 or over, excluding employees or agents of the associated companies and their families. Only one entry per person. The prizes are a day at Create & Craft with one of its sewing experts , £100 credited to your account, plus a Butterick and Singer sewing machine and a sewing bundle worth over £500. These cannot be exchanged for cash, or replaced with any other item. Illegible entries and those that do not abide by these terms and conditions will be disqualified. No responsibility will be held for entries lost, delayed or damaged. At Aceville we don’t do spam.

We want to keep in touch, but only if you want to hear from us.

So we can let you know about what’s going, including our great offers and special deals please agree to receiving emails from us by ticking this box � Aceville Publications, in this instance only, would like to share your information with our competition partner (Create & Craft). If you are happy for Create & Craft to contact you about other products or services they provide that maybe of interest, please agree below by ticking this box � We promise we won't share your information with anyone else and you can manage what we send you at any time by following the link to our preference center at the bottom of any of our emails.

Entries will be selected at random within 28 days of the closing date. No correspondence will be entered into. CLOSING DATE: 15th November 2018. Winner will be notified by post, phone or email. The winners’ names will be available on request from Zoe Charge, 21/23 Phoenix Court, Hawkins Road, Colchester, Essex CO2 8JY.

RESOURCES & ACTIVITIES Most inspirational sewing personality � Debbie Shore � Stuart Hillard � Lauren Guthrie � Tilly Walnes � Lisa Comfort

Favourite sewing book 2017-18 Tilda Sunshine Sewing – Tone Finnager Half Yard Bags and Purses – Debbie Shore Stretch – Tilly and the Buttons

!

Please send completed forms to:

H

WOW

1st !

PRIZ

Marketing Dept, British Sewing Awards 2018, Aceville Publications Ltd, 21-23 Phoenix Court, Hawkins Road, Colchester, CO2 8JY 41

sewmag.co.uk

E

Give us a twirl in the

sew

SKYLAR SKIRT

free pattern download sewmag.co.uk /templates

If you’re looking to make an entrance this party season, then be sure to stitch Amanda Walker’s pleat-perfect number in a glitzy grey velour! Based around a simple half-circle diagram, this skirt can easily be started in the morning and wrapped up in time for the evening. So, what are you waiting for?

sew a METALLIC SKIRT Get started

• Fabric, 2m (150cm) • Lightweight fusible interfacing • Concealed zip, 22cm • Hook and eye

Cutting guide

Follow the diagram at sewmag. co.uk to calculate the shape. Fold the fabric, selvedge to selvedge, then cut out one piece on the fold.

Cut a 9cm wide fabric strip the same length as your waist measurement, adding an extra 3.2cm for the seam allowance.

Cut another in fusible interfacing.

1.6cm seam allowance used throughout unless otherwise stated.

1

Download and print the diagram from sewmag.co.uk, then follow the cutting guide.

Fuse interfacing to the waistband, then neaten one long edge of it with zig zag stitch or an overlocker.

Lay the two cut edges of the skirt together, right sides facing, then stitch down the entire length of the seam, leaving a 20cm gap at the top to insert the zip. Press the seams open. Lay the waistband around the edge of the waistline, right side facing, and stitch in place.

2

Sew the concealed zip into the back opening using a zipper foot; the zip top will run into the front half of the waistband. Fold and press the seam allowance along the two sides of the back opening. Open out the seam allowance and, with

right sides facing, place the open zip face down, matching the teeth to the crease line in the seam allowance, and pin in place.

If you are stitching with a normal zipper foot, you will need to uncurl the teeth with your fingertips first.

3

Leave 2.5cm of the zip base un-stitched, back-stitch, then sew the other side of the zip in place. Thread the zip pull through to the right side and pull up to close. Turn in the seam allowance at the ends of the waistband, then turn the neatened edge of the waistband inside the skirt; the folded edges will lay beside the zip, sandwiching it inside the waistband. Hand-stitch it to the inside edge of the zip.

4

Pin the waistband onto the right side of the skirt, then finish by stitching in the ditch; this refers to the seam between the skirt and the waistband. The skirt will need to hang up for at least a day to let the fabric settle; the hem will likely become uneven and will need to be levelled again by trimming away excess length. Sew a rolled hem around the bottom of the skirt, then stitch a hook and eye to the ends of the waistband, above the top of the zip.

42

sewmag.co.uk

sew DRESSMAKING

Project exclusive to

sew!

Core skill:

SEWING CONCEALED ZIPS If using a concealed zipper foot, place the teeth of the zip into the groove before you begin. As you stitch, the foot will uncurl the teeth and the stitching will appear alongside the teeth. If stitching with a normal zipper foot, you will need to uncurl the teeth with your fingertips as you go; sew to the top of the side seam.

sew

SHOPPER ************************

PLEATS PLEASE! This heavyweight crinkle velour is just the ticket for statement occasion-wear. It’s soft to the touch with a gentle wave design. £10 per metre, abakhan.co.uk ************************ thank you for shopping!

43

sewmag.co.uk

Backstitch, Cambridge Visit backstitch.co.uk NOV

20

Christmas Sack

&learn

Stitch

TUE

Personalise a gift for a loved one this festive season! In this class, you’ll be taught how to use Bondaweb to appliqué letters or a design of your choice onto a Christmas sack. You’ll also learn how to create a simple, reversible drawstring fastening: a skill which you’ll be able to take away and apply to a multitude of homemade projects.

Price: £30

OCT

Tote Bag

Want to make a quick and easy Christmas present? Head along to this tutorial which will enable you to practise sewing with a FRI variety of stitches to create a lined, boxy style tote. This class is great for beginners, too, as it teaches you how to thread a machine and change the needle, stitch and speed settings.

Price: £40

12

Expand your skills with our selection of winter workshops

Escape & Create, Cambridge

Visit escapeandcreate.co.uk NOV

8

OCT

5

FRI

Quilt Basics: Half Square Triangles

Advent Calendar Bunting

Get ready for the Christmas with this festive THUR countdown tutorial! You’ll use material from Makower UK and bias binding to create 24 bunting flags, which you can take home and give as a cute gift for a little one, or indulge your inner child and fill it with sweet treats for yourself!

Price: £25

OCT

Master the art of the half square triangle quilt block so you can cosy up with a blanket this winter! The workshop will teach you how to use a rotary cutter and ruler to make several half square triangles, after which you’ll be able to get creative and piece together a myriad of patterns.

Price: £30

13

SAT

Learn to Sew in a Day

This workshop is a great place to begin for newbie stitchers!

The class will teach you how to thread a machine, wind a bobbin and sew basic stitches, as well as providing troubleshooting advice.

These skills will then be put to the test with a beautiful cushion cover and lined bag.

Price: £70

44

sewmag.co.uk

sew PROMOTION

Annies Attic, Kent

OCT

Visit anniesattic.co.uk NOV

Fabric Toy

Make a cute snuggly gift for a little one with this handy workshop. In the lesson, SAT you will be able to create a machine-sewn bunny or teddy bear, then add decorative details by hand. You’ll even be provided with full instructions and a template so you can go home and carry on crafting!

Price: £65

13

Christmas Tilda Angel

Get your Christmas craft on and head over to Annies Attic to whip up one of these SAT delightful angels in time for the festivities! Learn how to machine-sew and stuff your very own fabric fairy, then create some decorative clothing for it using techniques such as needle-felting.

Price: £65

17

NOV

Christmas Table Runner

Why not go all out for Crimbo and create a patchwork runner for your dinner table? This class SAT is great for newbie stitchers as it’s a brilliant introduction to patchwork, quilting, machine piecing and binding, and it teaches you how to use a rotary cutter and cutting mat, too.

Price: £65

10

Leicestershire Craft Centre

OCT

Visit leicestershirecraftcentre.co.uk

4

Gift Bags and Envelopes

Want to do your bit for the environment and use something other than wrapping paper for your presents? Then attend this workshop and have a go at making fabric envelopes for cards and Japanese bento bags for gifts. This quick and easy project is great for using up fabric scraps, and can easily be recreated at home, too!

Price: £20

THUR

Tweed Bag Put a smile on a loved one’s face this festive season and make them a gorgeous tweed bag. In this class, you’ll discover how to construct the MON bag, add a lining, and finish it off with leather handles – with these skills to hand, you’ll be able to whip up this timeless classic in no time!

Price: £80

OCT

22

NOV

Invisible Zips

Boost your confidence when it comes to working with THUR fastenings and perfect the art of sewing with an invisible zip.

Not only will this class teach you how to add zips onto clothing, but you’ll also discover how to attach them to a range of accessories and homewares including bags and cushions.

Price: £18

29

45

sewmag.co.uk

From cushion covers and bags, to ties, belts and bunting, it’s a fact that your project will look neater if the corners and points are perfectly crisp and flat. Bunching and bubbling can occur because the length of your stitch line measures differently from your fabric edge. However, by simply cutting across the seam allowance before turning, you’ll reduce the amount of fabric in the point or corner, which will allow you to carefully push it out to give a good shape. But, you may wonder, when should you clip and when should you notch? Keep on reading!

Debbie Shore’s SHOW & TELL

CLIPPING CORNERS & CURVES

TOOLS OF THE TRADE

smooth it out

ahead of the curve

There are many tools designed to help push out points; you can also use a blunt pencil or knitting needle, but never use scissors!

Use the curved side of a bamboo creaser to smooth out the seam before pressing – it’s a dressmaker’s essential.

If you are creating a convex curved seam, the project – as it is turned – will create more fabric in the seam allowance than in the actual seam.

take it up a notch

go full circle

the final touch

To prevent it bunching up, cut little ‘V’ shaped notches across the seam allowance with small, sharp scissors. Pinking shears will work, too.

The fabric in a concave seam opens out when turned, so this time, you’ll need to make little snips into the seam allowance.

Avoid cutting through the stitches to allow the seam allowance to stretch open. Press gently for a professional finish.

For more great tips from Debbie, visit halfyardsewingclub.com 46

sewmag.co.uk

www.gillybee.co.uk • Gorgeous fabrics and sewing supplies for quilters, dressmakers and crafters.

• Great customer service with buckets of inspiration & advice.

• Stylecraft yarns and patterns. Toft Amigurumi kits and workshops.

• Sewing workshops, GillyBee Absolute Beginners Dressmaking course & Sewing Café.

Use code SEWXMAS for a 10% discount online and in the shop with this advert.

Sign up to our newsletter for latest news & offers. Visit our shop to join our loyalty scheme.

Suppliers of mail order fabrics for over 40 years we source beautiful fabrics from Britain, Europe and rest of the world.

Shop open Tues-Sat 9.00-5.30 2 Cucumber Lane, Brundall, Norwich NR13 5QY Tel: 01603 716140 Located just outside Norwich a stone’s throw from the A47/Broadland Northway junction. We offer free parking next to the shop.

48

sewmag.co.uk

Luxe THE

FA C T O R

If sewing silky fabric makes you fret, fear not as we explain how easily luxe can thrill WORDS BY JANEY GOULDING

Whoever coined the phrase ‘smooth as silk’ certainly had a sense of humour, or so it seems as you face a familiar creative quandary: you’ve seen (and stroked) a silky fabric and it’s undeniably lush, but who needs the hassle of it slip-sliding away, right? Look, we’re with you; we know how it feels to caress an impulse charmeuse treat with girlish Carrie Bradshaw glee and imagine your own slinky homage to Valentino... only to stare blankly at pattern tissue or machine settings as panic sets in. We can’t bear the thought of destroying something so lovely with the wrong pins or distressed seams, and if it all results in a badly fitting, unsightly sheen drawing attention to the wrong places, forget about it. Still, before you retreat back to the comfortable confines of cotton, let our industry experts smooth things over with their silky secrets to mastering those slippery slopes with grace. As Armani declared, true elegance is not about being noticed but being remembered. A little luxury is a terrible thing to waste, so let’s boss the gloss, because it’s time to shine!

THANK YOU TO OUR CONTRIBUTORS...

HAYLEY HOWELLS, SEWHAYLEYJANE.COM KATIE MARCUS, WHATKATIESEWS.NET JEN WALKER, GINGERTHREADGIRL.CO.UK ANEKA TRUMAN, MADETOSEW.COM

49

sewmag.co.uk

Sheen

FA B R I C

SAVVY

NAMED CLOTHING’S LAURA HUHTA ON SMART SILKY STARTERS VISCOSE is an easy, inexpensive introduction to slippery fabric and is ideal for everyday garments. Both this and rayon provide beautiful drape for slip dresses and blouses. Just bear in mind that it is prone to wrinkling and shrinks a lot, so pre-washing is key!

CRÊPE DE CHINE has a lovely light texture, which makes it easy for newbies to manipulate.

It has great durability and excellent wrinkle resistance. Mid-weight silk variants offer a slinky drape and subtle pebbled sheen which creates exquisite movement for smart tops and dresses.

RiseA N D

TAFFETA is a stiff, stable plain weave which is relatively simple to handle. As it is firm and crisp, it is excellent for evening gowns, which generally require a little more weight as well as lustre. Its structure works well with any project where big skirts are a feature. namedclothing.com

SHINE

STAY SMOOTH, AS WE PRESENT YOUR GUIDE TO A LUXURY GLIDE…

Making a Splash...

Perhaps you’ve been told about the perils of introducing water to luxe fabrics? Yet the best way to prevent marks or distortion from errant splashes is to wash before you cut anything.

As Hayley Howells, creator of Sew Hayley Jane points out, plenty of silks are fine in the washing machine (the same goes for polyester satin and nylon taffeta), so you can confidently run them through a gentle cycle in cold water.

Just use common sense, adds Aneka Truman of Made to Sew, who points out some fabrics still require hand-washing.

Furthermore, you’ll find a timely spritz can reap dividends when getting your pattern pieces in hand, as Katie Marcus, owner of What Katie Sews, points out: “It’s a good idea to pretreat fabric with a starch spray, so it’s less susceptible to distortion and easier to handle while sewing.”

You’ll find the extra stability helps to simplify the process of cutting, as Gingerthread Girl founder Jen Walker notes: “The most helpful tip I had with sheer slippery fabric like chiffon is to temporarily stiffen it with starch spray. Best advice ever!”

Are You Cutting It?

Possibly the biggest challenge you’ll face will be the few seconds before you make that first incision. “Take your time at the cutting stage,” says Katie. “If you cut wonky pieces, there isn’t really any going back.” As pattern designer Jennifer Lauren notes, the major issue with slippery material is that it tends to move off grain

during cutting so the garment doesn’t fit right.

“You might find it easier to re-trace any fold pattern pieces so they are one whole, and cut from that,” she suggests. If you do cut on the fold, says Aneka, you can stabilise the material by layering it between two sheets of tissue or calico. Place the folded fabric, right sides together, on paper. Rest a second layer of paper above it, pin your pattern on top, then cut. “This creates a safe fabric sandwich, protected between stable elements, which helps prevent slips,” says Aneka. She also advises a nap layout, with all pieces facing in the same direction, so you don’t get light inconsistencies.

Opinion is divided on whether to use scissors or a rotary blade. Unless you’re stabilising, a rotary is best to keep emerging pattern pieces flat and snag-free. “Even slipping a scissor blade under a lightweight fabric can distort things,” says Hayley. Where you do use scissors, make sure they are as sharp as possible, preferably with a micro-serrated edge. Dull scissors always make cutting tricky, but it’s especially true with slippery fabric, says Victory Patterns creator Kristiann Boos, adding, “It should feel like a hot knife cutting through butter!”

Power of the Pins

One thing all our silky stitchers agree on is the importance of pinning to secure the layers and details. “Pins are your friends so use plenty,” declares Jen Walker. Extra-fine or ultra-fine glass head and silk options are less

50

sewmag.co.uk

Blossoms and Botanicals From sun-kissed petals to moodier blooms, Beckford Silk’s selection of satin, crêpe de chine, georgette and dupion shot present a symphony of variations for luxury stitching, from Deco-inspired Country Garden Peony to the watercolour swirls of Meadow Sweet Cherry Blossom and the liquid mallow of Botanical Misty. From £30.50 per metre, beckfordsilk.co.uk

likely to leave a noticeable puncture and will glide beautifully through the fabric, lessening the heartbreak of unsightly snags. When it comes to attaching the pins, Aneka highlights a few points that are especially effective with light and diaphanous textures: pin in the selvedge to prevent puckering, and stick within the seam allowances where possible. “It’s also beneficial to pin parallel to the seam line when you’re working with silk,” she explains. “Pinning horizontally to the seam may cause the point to catch and tear the closely woven fibres.”

Even allowing for this, says Kristiann, slippery fabric can distort along its edge in ways that might surprise you if you are used to more sturdy woven styles. Being less stable, one side may stretch more than the other as you work so, when pinning, take time to align and realign the edges carefully. And once your fabric is secured, says Hayley, find a scrap piece of tissue paper and pin it under the first couple of inches; this helps protect the fabric when you make those first stitches.

Swimming with Sharps

If all that talk of pins didn’t have you eyeballing the carpet for errant silver, there’s also the matter of needles. For delicate projects, the preferred types are slim-size 60-70 sharps, advises Hayley, but test on a scrap of similar fabric to make sure you’re happy. It’s incredible how quickly needles go blunt, says Kristiann, so always start a fresh garment with a new needle. You may need to adapt the size, as Aneka points out. “Fine silk, georgette or chiffon is better with a smaller needle such as a 60/8, but for a medium weight silk, go for a 80/12,” she says.

“With certain densely woven fabrics, use a Microtex needle to pierce the weave effectively.”

Hand sewing also requires fine sharps, not to mention a well-lit workspace. In her blogpost Did You Make That? Karen Ball describes the process with amusement: “You’ll want a teeny sharp, and a thimble. Possibly a magnifying glass... definitely a head torch!”

Curiously, silky stitchers have mixed preferences when selecting thread. While cotton options blend remarkably well with silk fabric, Kristiann and Aneka recommend a fine embroidery silk thread, which slides easily without leaving holes. “As a rule, the thread should be weaker than the fabric,” says Aneka. “So cotton is ideal for 100% silk fabric, while polyester thread is fine for man-made fibres.” However, Laura and Saara of Named Clothing advise against polyester thread for silk; because it is stronger, it will eventually cut into the fibres. Silk thread is also useful for tacking, where darts, pleats or curved seams are required.

Setting the Sheen

Something seems to happen to sewing machines around silky fabric: your trusty friend might start to act like it’s feeding time! Given the flimsy and reactive nature of slippery and lightweight materials, you’re urged to test-sew on scraps to gauge proper feed, says Jen Walker: “Best to let the

Shape up W I TH SI LK...

KRISTIANN BOOS ON FLATTERING CONTOURS WITH LUXE FABS My work as designer of Victory Patterns is informed by a love of fabrics that move with the body. Since silky material falls closer to the skin, I lean towards this for designs with more drape; I love the shaping with a slinky rayon challis or crêpe de chine. My Trina dress, with its full sleeves and skirts, has gorgeous movement with luxe; the properties of texture and light interact in an elegant yet easy way.

Trina combines a traditional kimono sleeve with a wrap dress, romantic yet contemporary, for which silky texture is well suited. Art Deco is a key influence,

FOR MORE STYLE ADVICE ON THE TRINA DRESS GO TO PAGE 34

adding a touch of drama, but also poise: think of the Hollywood starlet in her silk robe. A slinky wrap flatters all shapes, and a silky drape only enhances that. Trina looks great with all kinds of luxe fabs – my grandma had a version made from georgette in her collection for decades, and it’s one of my favourites.

Fine fabric such as chiffon, georgette, charmeuse, crêpe de chine or rayon challis catapults this style into something enigmatic yet unforgettable. victorypatterns.com

51

sewmag.co.uk

scraps be scoffed, rather than your garment pieces!” Try a throat plate with a tiny hole for straight stitch, as this will prevent finer, silky textures getting sucked through the gap. “If your machine begins to nibble, place a small strip of tissue paper under the material at the start to reduce the chance of chewing,” suggests Hayley. “Once you’ve finished, you can just rip the tissue paper away.”

Stabilising fabric is important, notes Aneka, and you may require this on the whole seam, or just to help you get started.

Aneka advises sewing with a smaller stitch length; delicate fabrics work best at the 1.5mm2mm setting. As a general rule, the lighter the fabric, the smaller the stitch length required.

Again, test a sample first, and don’t be afraid to adjust both tension and stitch length. For fine textures, a three-step zig zag doesn’t tend to pucker like regular zig zag. Katie also suggests using a walking foot for even feeding. This will all help pull the fabric through the machine, as it can be difficult to get a rhythm going at first. You may find it helps to pull gently on the needle thread and bobbin thread until the fabric moves smoothly.

Just take care not to stretch it. “Your hands will serve as a wonderful tool for getting the fabric to behave,” Kristiann says. “They just need time to get used to it.”

!

E N I g n i w H e s r C u o y A m r o f M Trans

r u o y e v o L

INNOV-IS A16

Make sewing speedy and simple with this latest SMOOTH model which has 16 builtSTITCHING in stitches, a one-step auto-size buttonhole, and a handy quick-set bobbin.

The Innov-is A16 also has a seven-point feed with an extra long J foot to ensure smooth stitching, and an automatic reverse stitch to create a neat, professional finish.

Price £299

INNOV-IS A150

Not only does this new machine have a whopping 150 builtBUILT-IN in stitches, but it also STITCHES has a detachable quick reference guide so you can easily find the best stitch for your project. This model includes four styles of lettering, as well as the option to create sewing patterns by combining up to 70 stitches.

150

Treat yourself to a machine!

Price: £499

INNOV-IS A80

With 80 built-in stitches, eight different buttonhole styles and a quick-cut bobbin winding system, you’ll be stitching a multitude of projects in no time! The brand-new Innov-is A80 also has a free arm which makes it easier to sew around curves such as cuffs and sleeves.

With this machine to hand, you’ll be able to stitch with all kinds of fabric, from sheers and cottons, to stretch knits and denim effortlessly.

EASY-SEW CURVES

Price: £449

52

sewmag.co.uk

sew PROMOTION

INDULGE THIS XMAS!

KEY FEATURES:

3 272mm x 408mm embroidery area 3 1,100+ built-in patterns 3 HD tablet-style touchscreen 3 34 tutorial videos 3 Electronic needle threading 3 Dual drive foot Add the Luminaire Innov-is XP1 to your craft room – it’s perfect for all kinds of projects, including sewing, quilting and embroidery. This brand-new model is jam-packed with a whole host of new features, such as a DC brushless motor to provide quicker and more precise stitches, and an interactive projector which displays stitches, designs and guidelines onto the fabric in actual size. The machine also includes a camera scan function which automatically transforms clip art and images into an embroidery pattern, providing endless creative possibilities.

Luminaire Innov-is XP1, £10,999. Find your local stockist at brothersewing.co.uk

“Add the Luminaire Innov-is XP1 to your craft room – it’s perfect for all kinds of projects, including sewing, quilting and embroidery”

OUR EDITOR’S PICK!

SHOP of the

MONTH

Couling Sewing Machines

INNOV-IS A50

As well as having an LED light and a presser foot levelling button to ensure smooth stitching, the newly-released Innov-is A50 also has a large, clear display screen and a one-step needle threader. This is great for newbie sewers as it shows information such as stitch width and length, as well as the type of presser foot needed for each project. With multiple stitches to choose from and a quick-set bobbin for easy threading, this machine is perfect for all your stitchy creations.

Price: £399

has over 50 years’ experience in the industry. The shop is supplied with products from top manufacturers, where engineers specialise in servicing and repairs and are always on hand to restore your much-loved machines.

The store also has over 60 new models on display which are used for free demonstrations; these include Brother sewing, embroidery and overlocker machines. But this family-run business doesn’t stop there, it supplies an array of software, dress forms, horn cabinets, ironing presses and haberdashery for you to stock up your stitchy stash.

53

sewmag.co.uk

WHAT’S ON OFFER? 3B rother sewing, embroidery and overlocker machines 3 S ervicing and repairs 3E xtensive range of accessories and haberdashery 3F ree demonstrations and tuitions on machines purchased 3 PE Design Embroidery software 3 Horn cabinets and dress forms available

Visit Couling Sewing Machines, 53 High Street, Lincoln, LN5 8AN. Alternatively, visit coulingsewingmachines. co.uk or call 0152 2521841.

Subscribe today & get ready for Christmas d Subscribe today & get ready for Christma

YES! Please start my subscription to SEW Please choose a fabric:

Black

Royal

1 DIRECT DEBIT 2 UK CHEQUE/CREDIT CARD

2 OVERSEAS

£19.99 every 3 issues* £84.00 for 13 issues (1 year) Eur/Eire £106.00 ROW £116.00 (1 year)

RETURN TO: FREEPOST, RTXY-TZXZ-CGCG, SEW, ROCKWOOD HOUSE, PERRYMOUNT ROAD, HAYWARDS HEATH, WEST SUSSEX, RH16 3TW

FREE

POSTAGE

SUBSCRIBER DETAILS; please complete in BLOCK CAPITALS Title Forename Surname

So Many Great Reasons to Subscribe...

• Be the FIRST to receive every new issue • 2 SIMPLICITY patterns every issue worth more than £180 across the year • CELEBRITY sewing features, tips and tricks in every issue

Address

Postcode Daytime No.

• SEWING SOS – the experts answer your questions • SAVE over £13 on the cover price • DELIVERED straight to your door at NO EXTRA COST

Mobile No.

Email I enclose a cheque made payable to Sew

2

SEW1318F

I would like to renew my subscription with this offer (cheque/credit card)

Please debit my account by

Visa Amex

Mastercard

Switch/Maestro (issue No.)

Card Number

Valid from

Expiry date

SIGNED:

CVV code

TODAY’S DATE:

“The little black dress is a staple piece in every woman’s wardrobe and for obvious reasons! Stitch Simplicity’s Amazing Fit frock in Duchess satin and gorgeous lace to be the belle of the ball at any soiree!”

Lucy Jobber, Sew editor

Your order details will be processed by Aceville Publications Ltd (publishers of Sew magazine). We will use your information to fulfill your subscription and communicate other information deemed relevant in connection with this service Aceville Publications Ltd would like to contact you with information about other services and publications we provide which may be of interest. Please tick the relevant box below if you ARE HAPPY to receive such information by post [ ] phone [ ] email [ ] Aceville Publications Ltd will NOT share your personal details with anyone else.

1 INSTRUCTION TO YOUR BANK OR BUILDING SOCIETY TO PAY DIRECT DEBIT

RENEW USING CODE

SEW1318A Black or SEW1318B Royal

To renew visit sewmag.co.uk/subscribe Have your subscriber details to hand

Originator’s ID No.

6 7 7 1 8 6

Name and full postal address of your Bank or Building Society

To: The Manager

bank/building society

Postcode Name(s) of account holders(s) Branch sort code

Bank/Building Society Account Number

Instruction to your Bank or Building Society: Please pay Aceville Publications Ltd, Direct Debit from the account detailed in this instruction subject to the safeguards assured by the Direct Debit Guarantee. I understand that this instruction may remain with Aceville Publications Ltd and, if so, details may be passed electronically to my Bank/Building Society. Data Banks and Building Societies may not accept Direct Debit instructions for some types of accounts

Signature(s) Date

The direct debit guarantee

Your Direct Debit Guarantee will be found on your confirmation letter.

H

Address

H

A littl e extr from u a something FREE * s to you.

Chocol Decadent ate fro m Div ine

R! FFE DO ITE LIM

as d Subscribe today & get ready for Christmas d Subscribe today & get ready for Christma

Look incredible this Christmas with your

H AMAZING FIT SPECIAL HH OCCASION DRESS KIT H FREE* WHEN YOU SUBSCRIBE TO sew!

H

H

Both satin & lace included!

Choose your colour...

PETIT & PLUSE SIZES ALSO!

Black

Royal

Make me!

This special occasion Amazing Fit dress has individual H pattern pieces for B, C, D, DD cup sizes, and cutting lines

H

for slim, average and curvy fit. Your kit includes Simplicity pattern, Duchess satin and beautiful harmonising lace – enough to make up to dress size 18! The pattern also has special instructions for petite sizes.

£18rt0h +of

sewmag.co.uk/subscribe

0330 333 0042

Quote: SEW1318A Black or SEW1318B Royal ­­Lines are open Monday-Friday 9am-5:30pm, Saturday and Bank Holidays 10am-3pm *Terms and conditions apply, see online for further details.

This offer is subject to availability, alternative gift may be supplied to the same or greater value.

wo y Simplicit ver o s n r e tt pa the year!

3

Issues FOR JUST

£19.99!*

DOWNLOAD AT SEWMAG. CO.UK

Find out how to make these turtle doves at sewmag.co.uk

Christmas will be spent at home with my loved ones as always this year – I can’t wait!

© Photographed by Rachel Whiting.

At home with...

johnlewis.com

A few evenings spent sewing will pay dividends in the coming months

STUART HILLARD

Delicious food, cosy evenings and hand-sewn decs - Christmas is officially on the way!

After a remarkably hot summer, I am to scupper plans or tempt fate, but Charlie and embracing winter with open arms – I don’t I have found what we hope will be our new home even care that it started a little early! and everything is progressing well. Whatever

I had a stack of logs left over from last year and the very first chilly night we had in August, I made hot chocolate, gathered my sock knitting supplies together, struck a match and lit my burner. Admittedly, it was self indulgent – I could easily have put a sweater on – but for me, the most wonderful thing about this time of year is pretending it’s winter and enjoying all of the benefits without any of the drawbacks!

I know I’m not alone in enjoying these home comforts; friends on social media joined me in lighting that first fire or switching on the central heating and enjoying an evening feeling cosy!

Candles were lit, quilts were brought out of storage and coats have been dry cleaned. I even got my recipe folders out and started thumbing through casserole dishes... I just need to find one that will help me use up my glut of tomatoes!

While I’m feeling so homey and work has calmed down a little, I’m also going to make a start on handmade Christmas presents and a few decorations for the house – wherever that might be!

happens, we both thought it would be a good idea to sort through our boxes and cupboards, thin out our possessions a little, and generally consolidate the last 15 years. The process started slowly: it’s tough going through packed wardrobes and admitting that those skinny jeans and tiny T-shirts are never, ever going to fit you again! I believe letting go is also about leaving behind old dreams in favour of new ones.

“I’m going to make a start on handmade Christmas presents and a few decorations for the new house – wherever that may be!”

Knowing where I want to be in the next phase of my life certainly helps. It’s the same process I go through when I clear out my craft stash, too.

The fabrics I once couldn’t live without sometimes have to leave home and join a new OUT WITH THE OLD family to make way for something else. To It’s been a month of de-stashing and render the process easier, I packed up a box decluttering here. I mentioned last month of crafty supplies and sent them to a friend that I’ve been house hunting; I don’t want – who wouldn’t like that sort of mail?

I’ve been looking for casserole dishes to use up my home-grown tomatoes

DECK THE HALLS While sorting out the attic, we inevitably got to the boxes of Christmas decorations and finding those really made me sigh. There’s an old saying that ‘home is where the heart is’ and I don’t think I could ever spend Christmas away from my pad and my loved ones. They are central to my life... and food of course, there’s always food! I love the tradition and the ritual of Christmas: the same songs get played, the decades-old decorations are dusted off like precious relics, and there is a whole calendar of preparations which are always done in order. September and October are about making chutneys and pickles, preserving branches of bright red berries in glycerine and collecting fallen pine cones to pile up in bowls and baskets. I love making gifts for Christmas, but I make sure they are always small and fast to finish: a quickly sewn toiletry bag filled with goodies or a pair of wrist warmers knitted in chunky yarn, a bright floral infinity scarf or maybe some simple socks. A few hours or evenings spent now pay dividends in the coming months and help me avoid the crowds and the queues and certainly the last minute stress of who gets what. This time of year is all about preparation and getting ready for harsher weather, for celebrations and for pastures new... maybe!

Stuart x

You can check in with Stuart on createandcraft.com, channels Virgin 748, Freeview 23, Freesat 813 and Sky 683, or visit @stuarthillardsews on Instagram 56

sewmag.co.uk

57

sewmag.co.uk

A trip down memory lane

Press rewind! It’s time to revisit our favourite event in years gones past...

S

ew Saturday is just around the corner and we can barely contain our excitement!

This month, we chatted to local shop owners, Sew readers and our 2018 ambassador, Stuart Hillard to share a glimpse into the community spirit behind the occasion.

Sew Saturday 2017, Little House of Patchwork

ROOM FOR ALL Tanya Bashford, owner of Little House of Patchwork in West Sussex, lets us know what she got up to for last year’s event: “I love taking part in Sew Saturday! Last year was our first event in our new premises, so we were able to accommodate more people for our classes. We ran two workshops and offered a simple project to encourage newbie stitchers to come along, and a more complex make for experienced sewers.

“This year, we’ll be doing a gorgeous gift bag project, which we’re sure our customers will love to create for friends and family this Christmas.” littlehouseofpatchwork.co.uk

FEELING INSPIRED? Creative director, Deborah Shepherd gives us an insight into Janome’s Sew Saturday: “For us, the occasion is a fantastic way to connect with both retailers and customers. We love seeing people from all walks of life at the event; it’s a great way to express creativity and inspire new crafters.

“Last year, we enjoyed meeting customers both old and new, and helped them make the most of their sewing machines; it was fulfilling to hear stories

Creations from Sew Saturday 2017 at Newark Craft Hub 58

sewmag.co.uk

about how a more up-to-date model has reignited people’s creativity.

“On 6th October, we hope to spur on stitchers of all abilities by offering in-store machine demonstrations, together with discounts on the day. ” janome.co.uk

COMMUNITY HUB Former textiles teacher Michelle Baker, also known as Crafty Betty, shares the Newark Craft Hub space with Sally Harrison, a.k.a The Fabric Daisy. Crafty Betty lets us know all about their Sew Saturday highlights: “It’s an important date for us; we treat it as an opportunity to get people of all sewing abilities through the door.

“Last year was one of our busiest events yet! My favourite part was the atmosphere in the studio; there was a real buzz in the air and it was lovely to see people making new friends and learning at the same time.

“All of our customers are memorable, but what was really special was the mixture of age groups; we had young children up to ladies in their seventies taking part.

Most people stayed all day and many have returned for workshops over the last year, which is fantastic!” newarkcrafthub.co.uk

Proudly sponsored by

Leanne, owner of Gather ‘N’ Sew

Maggie’s Sew Saturday 2017 embroidery

Stuart with owner of Ready Thready Sew, Ingrid Smith

Volunteers from Three Counties Dog Rescue with cute pooches, Jenni and Jack

CHARITABLE CAUSE Every year, Leanne de Lima Araujo, owner of Gather ‘N’ Sew in Lincolnshire, looks forward to the event: “Last year was so much fun! Leading up to it we ran a competition to make Daisy Dachshund and prizes were given out for Most Original, Best Stitched and Best Children’s Entry – the judging was so difficult as they were all brilliant!

“We also launched our Community Quilt project where customers purchased and made the Daisy Dachshund block pattern.

The completed blocks were sewn together to make a quilt which was raffled, with all of the proceeds going to our local Three Counties Dog Rescue charity – we raised £250!

A message from Stuart Hillard

“I have so many favourite memories from last year, but I loved seeing the unique Daisy Dachshund entries; the winner of the Most Original category was a brilliant punk-style design, complete with spiky hair and a nose ring!” gathernsew.co.uk

Sew Saturday 2018 ambassador, Stuart Hillard tells Sew what the event means to him: “I’ll never forget the feeling I got when I walked into my first fabric shop… the explosion of colour, patterns and quilts, the kind greetings, the friendships made and the problems solved – it was full of inspiration at every turn. I can’t imagine a world without my favourite kind of retail experience, so I’ll always champion the message behind Sew Saturday.

“This year I’m teaching a class on the day at Needle & Thread Workshops in Lincolnshire; these tutorials are, for me, the greatest pleasure and another brilliant reason to stand by our local craft shops.”

MY SEW SATURDAY

2018 mascots, Spirit and Unity

“Last year, I spent the day at Tudor Rose Patchwork in Bedfordshire with my mum and daughter. We enjoyed a lovely girly morning looking around the shop, as well as a sewing lucky dip and a delicious scone in the café.”

Winning entry for Best Stitched

Charmaine West, Sew reader 59

sewmag.co.uk

“For the 2017 event, I went along to the Bolton branch of Abakhan Fabrics where I demonstrated how to make a dachshund toy and showed the customers how to do basic handembroidery. I’m so excited to be involved again this year with the Spirit and Unity unicorn mascots!”

Maggie Thomson Jones, Sew reader

Sew Saturday 6th October, 2018

Proudly sponsored by:

BEDFORDSHIRE

BRISTOL

CAMBRIDGESHIRE

CAMBRIDGESHIRE

Be Creative ...

Learn to make beautiful, original clothes Tulsa House, Station Road, Wisbech St. Mary, Cambridgeshire PE13 4RY 07584 341160 www.stitchstudio.co.uk jayne@stitchstudio.co.uk

BEDFORDSHIRE

BRISTOL

CAMBRIDGESHIRE

CAMBRIDGESHIRE

www.evieandlola.co.uk

MACARON WORKSHOPS Join us at our Kitchen

Opening hours:

Table for all kinds of creative inspiration

Tuesday: 10.00 - 18.30 Wednesday, Thursday & Friday: 10.00 - 17.30 Saturday: 12.00 - 16.30 7 Steel Close, Eaton Socon, St Neots PE19 8TT

NEW WORKSHOP OPEN Unit 1 St Cuthberts Arcade, Bedford, Bedfordshire, MK40 3JG Email: anwyn@evieandlola.co.uk

www.habbydays.co.uk

evieandlola

BERKSHIRE

BUCKINGHAMSHIRE

CAMBRIDGESHIRE

40a The Broadway, St Ives, Cambridgeshire PE27 5BN

01480 300092 CARDIFF

13 Camms Corner Dinas Powys CF64 4QY Tel: 029 2115 2628 email: shop@whitegeckoevents.co.uk web: www.whitegeckocraftlounge.co.uk

BRISTOL

46 Sandy Park Rd, Brislington BS4 3PF Mon - Fri 9.30am - 5.30pm Sat 9am - 5pm

0117 977 8216 www.direct-sewingmachines.co.uk

BUCKINGHAMSHIRE

Visit our store on Sew Saturday 1D Well Street, Buckingham MK18 1EW • Patchwork Kits and Fabric • Workshops • Haberdashery • Yarns

01280 822236 www.nimble-thimble.co.uk

CAMBRIDGESHIRE

FABRICS, YARNS, SEWING MACHINES and much more !

58 King Street, Cambridge CB1 1LN info@sewknitcraft.co.uk 01223 350691

CARDIFF

Sew Saturday 6th October, 2018

Proudly sponsored by:

CARDIFF

FRANKLINS Curlew Close, Queensway Meadows, Newport NP19 4SY 01633 284646

Gripoly Mills, Sloper Road, Cardiff CF11 8AA 02922 402418

CHESHIRE

Janome •Juki • Brother • Pfaff • Bernina • Alfa Britannia • RMF sewing tables & cabinets CHELMSFORD COLCHESTER 13-15 St Botolphs Street 201 Moulsham Street CO2 7DU CM2 0LG 01206 563955 01245 346300 SALISBURY IPSWICH 41 Fisherton Street 1-3 St Matthews Street SP2 7RB IP1 3EL 01722 554466 01473 221188 PRICES BETTER THAN SHOPPING ONLINE!!

Jaycotts Ltd, Unit D2, Chester Trade Park, Bumpers Lane, Chester CH1 4LT

01244 394 099

www.jaycotts.co.uk CORNWALL

CORNWALL

The Sewing Studio 10-12 Chapel Street Redruth, Cornwall TR15 2DB “Come & join us and Jayne from Janome for Sew Saturday”!

Phone: 01209 216942 sales@thesewingstudio.co.uk www.thesewingstudio.co.uk

CORNWALL

1 Biddicks Court, St. Austell, Cornwall PL25 5PY

01726 75385 Patchwork, Quilting, Craft and Dressmaking fabrics and classes, sewing and knitting patterns, wool, haberdashery and Toyota and Pfaff Sewing Machines.

CORNWALL

.PAINTERS. a Cornish treasure trove of art & craft materials

patchwork fabric, textile art, fine art, workshops and more painters@craft-box.com 7 Fore Street Liskeard Cornwall PL14 3JA

www.craft-box.com 01579 347237

Cornish Garden Nurseries, Barras Moor, Perranarworthal, Truro

www.coastandcountrycrafts.co.uk sally@coastandcountrycrafts.co.uk Tel: 01872 870478

Largest |Europes needlecraft store CO. ARMAGH, IRELAND

3 Cloughlan Rd Armagh BT61 8RF 028 3887 1637 info@elizabethroseni.com www.elizabethroseni.com COUNTY DURHAM

DERBYSHIRE

8 Church Street, Ripley, Derbyshire DE5 3BU

thefabriccabin@gmail.com

07713848334 facebook.com/thefabriccabin www.thefabriccabin.co.uk

DEVON

Sew Saturday 6th October, 2018

Proudly sponsored by:

DEVON

EAST YORKSHIRE

FIFE

GREATER MANCHESTER

Patchwork Parade

HORNSEA SEWING CENTRE

“Q” House, Russell Street, Chadderton, Oldham OL9 9LF

31 Mill Street, Sidmouth, EX10 8DF

01395 513209 www.sidmouthfabrics.com

DORSET

53 Newbegin, Hornsea, HU18 1AB Tel: 01964 535 599

ESSEX

55 High Street, Dunfermline, Fife KY12 7DL

www.thesewstudio.co.uk

01383 621894 FIFE * Workshops & classes for adults & children * Retail sale of fabric, patterns, wool & haberdashery * Craft classes * Sewing machine hire, sales & repairs * Social cafe space

ESSEX

T: 0161 633 5900 W: www.patchworkparade.com E: patchworkparade@gmail.com

ROUGE FABRICS Join us for

SEW SATURDAY on 6th October

Jardines Fabrics EAST SUSSEX

OPEN TUESDAY-SATURDAY 10AM-4PM

GREATER MANCHESTER

There is something for everyone at Buttons & Blethers:

29 Jackson Road, Clacton On Sea, Essex CO15 1JA. Tel: 01255 427400 jardinesfabrics Monday-Saturday 9am-5pm

Quality cotton fabrics, threads and haberdashery, kits and patterns.

Classes for all skill levels.

www.buttonsandblethers.co.uk cs i br 01383 747884 fa day

L r Maggie@buttonsandblethers.co.uk AL atu ber Unit 15a Elgin Industrial Estate, off ew S cto % O Dunfermline, Fife KY12 7SN 10 on S th 6

GLOUCESTERSHIRE

84 Penny Meadows Ashton-Under-Lyme OL6 6EP

0161 330 9171 GREATER MANCHESTER

Purrfect Crafting Unleash your inner creativity

Little Sew and Sew 11b Bexhill Road St. Leonards-on-Sea East Sussex TN38 0AH info@littlesewandsewsussex.co.uk 01424 423375 www.littlesewandsewsussex.com

EAST SUSSEX

Fabrics, Haberdashery, Wool, Ribbons, Patterns; New fabrics every week Workshops • Materials • Equipment

6 Rayne Road, Braintree, CM7 2QH

www.lingardfabrics.co.uk ESSEX

Fabrics, Wools and Haberdashery Buttons, Ribbons and Patterns Knitting and Sewing Lessons 39 Parsonage Street, Dursley, Glos, GL11 4BP www.inchesfabrics.co.uk

GLOUCESTERSHIRE

11 Henrietta Street, Cheltenham GL50 4AA

Fabrics & Trimmings Open: Monday-Saturday 9am-5pm

Tel: 07413 413 775 80d Rosemary Road, Clacton-on-Sea, CO15 1ND

Visit us for local service with internet prices tel: 01242 244025 www.westendsewing.co.uk

We are your local independent Craft Store, stocking a wide range of craft materials, haberdashery, yarns, kids crafting, modelling, paints and much more.

We hold regular workshops & events.

Why not pop in and unleash your inner creativity, you are sure of a warm welcome.

139, Elliott Street, Tyldesley Manchester, M29 8FL

07718 770174 www.purrfectcrafting.co.uk @tyldesleycrafts

HAMPSHIRE

●

Haberdashery Workshops

●

Bobbin Sewing School The Stables, The Vine, High Street, Stockbridge, Hampshire SO20 6HF E: hello@bobbinsewingschool.com

www.bobbinsewingschool.co.uk

Sew Saturday 6th October, 2018

Proudly sponsored by:

HAMPSHIRE

HAMPSHIRE

HERTFORDSHIRE

Haberdashery, Yarns and Craft!

USE CODE: SEWSAT10 FOR 10% OFF

01252 444220

Purlieu Court, Beaulieu Road, Dibden Purlieu SO45 4PX

www.sew‐busy.co.uk

www.newforestfabrics.co.uk

Unit 18C • Hart Shopping Centre • Fleet • Hampshire GU51 3LA

HAMPSHIRE

JERSEY

Heavenly Arts & Crafts Cafe SEW SATURDAY OPEN DAY

Bernina Elna Janome Toyota

~~~~ 10AM-3PM FREE ENTRY

Get in touch today!

• Sewing Machine Sales • Servicing • Repairs • Haberdashery Supplies • Clothing Repairs and Alterations

www.reads-of-winchester.co.uk

01962 850 950 HAMPSHIRE

Our warm and friendly charity runs a sewing cafe four times a month, as well as courses taught by a qualified teacher.

CLP Sewing Cafe

07900 828431 hello@purple-stitches.com www.purple-stitches.com

Capitol Centre, Preston, Lancashire, PR5 4AW (behind Dunelm Mill) OPEN: MONDAY - SATURDAY; 10AM - 5.30PM SUNDAY; 11AM - 4PM

LEICESTERSHIRE RACHEL’S TEXTILES STUDIO

Exciting Fabrics • Haberdashery Sewing essentials • Janome Machines Gift vouchers Sewing & creative classes Genuine Jersey handmade gifts 47 La Colomberie, St. Helier, Jersey JE2 4QA

01534 878877

rachel@rachelstextilestudio.com

www.rachelstextilestudio.com

Tel: 07771 99 28 95 HERTFORDSHIRE 142 Cotterells Hemel Hempstead Herts, HP1 1JQ 01442 245383

Unit 14, Hassock Wood Business Centre, Stroudley Road, Basingstoke RG24 8UQ

Your award-winning craft superstore!

Papercraft, Knit & Stitch, Classes & Demonstrations!

Tel: 01772 880852 www.inspirationscraft.co.uk

02381 783386 HERTFORDSHIRE

LANCASHIRE

LEICESTERSHIRE

KENT Courses, workshops, parties for adults and children

One of Hertfordshire’s largest stockists for wools, fabrics, haberdashery and crafts www.needlecraftstore.co.uk contact@needlecraftstore.co.uk

HAMPSHIRE

Ann Louise and Thistle Wool Shops Traditional style wool shops with an extensive range of yarns, patchwork fabrics, buttons, haberdashery and more.

We host a range of classes starting from beginners.

Sew Saturday Sale starts at 9am on 6th October Huge fabric clearance. Free goody bags for the first 50 customers to spend over £25!

53 London Road, Cowplain PO8 8UJ Tel: 02392 253972

FABRIC PATTERNS SEWING WORKSHOPS

www.thesewingclub.co.uk Beach Creative, Beach Street, Herne Bay, Kent CT6 5PT

LEICESTERSHIRE

www.leicestershirecraftcentre.co.uk

Sew Saturday 6th October, 2018

Proudly sponsored by:

LEICESTERSHIRE

MORAY

NORTHAMPTONSHIRE

NORTHUMBERLAND

www.mooloos.co.uk • Sewing workshops from ages 9+ • Silver Sewing Machine Stockists • Fabrics, Haberdashery & Alterations

The home of Modern Couture, Fitting, Tailoring, the Sewing Retreat and so much more

5 MARKET PLACE, BRACKLEY, NN13 7AB

71 Market Street, Ashby de la Zouch, Leicestershire LE65 1AH

Phone: 01280 308 721

Tel: 01530 416300 /schoolofsewing @sewalison

Opening times: Mon, Tue, Thurs & Fri 9.30am - 4pm Saturday 9.30am - 2pm Closed Wednesday & Sunday

@sewwardrobe Sew Wardrobe

www.schoolofsewing.co.uk & www.sewwardrobe.co.uk

LINCOLNSHIRE

NORFOLK

NORTHAMPTONSHIRE

UNIT 3, WARKWORTH DRIVE, ELLINGTON, NE61 5HL

“Fun for all the family plus tea and cake!”

Fabrics, Haberdashery & Wool!

Stockists of Tilda Fabrics, Gutterman Fabrics & Threads, Butterick, McCalls and Kwik Sew patterns.

Tel: 01472 357800 www.friarystitch.co.uk

LINCOLNSHIRE

01670 457150

Broadly Patchwork Wroxham Barns, Tunstead Road Hoveton, NR12 8QU 01603 781665 www.broadlypatchwork.co.uk info@broadlypatchwork.co.uk

FABRICS AND HABERDASHERY SEWING MACHINES AND SERVICE SEWING LESSONS ALTERATIONS AND DRESSMAKING www.thesewingmachineguy.co.uk

NORFOLK

NORTHAMPTONSHIRE

A new shop for modern and beautiful fabrics and haberdashery for Patchwork and Quilting

“Dressmaking fabrics, quilting cottons, haberdashery and sewing classes” Unit 8, Crown Walk, Bourne, Lincs PE10 9PB

NORTH YORKSHIRE

Fabrics, haberdashery, patterns, sewing lessons, sewing machines and spares.

USE CODE: SEWSAT10 FOR 10% OFF INSTORE & ONLINE 1, The Fairway, Northallerton DL7 8AY

01778 420464 www.gathernsew.co.uk LINCOLNSHIRE

NORTHUMBERLAND

www.thetartanreel.co.uk NORFOLK

NORTH LINCOLNSHIRE

01609 531399 info@sewnew.co.uk

NORTH YORKSHIRE

“Your one stop sewing shop” Dressmaking, Pattern Cutting and Jane White Couture Tuition Award, Certificate & Diploma Programme

Enjoy professional tuition – where you’ll sew amongst enthusiasts!

Join our fun ‘Sewing Bee’ workshops and short courses for garment technique specific projects.

We can arrange one to one tuition to suit you.

Official supplier of Elna and Baby Lock sewing machines and overlockers

Tel: 01482 840712 www.janewhitetuition.co.uk The Ropewalk, Barton upon Humber, North Lincolnshire DN18 5JT

Sewing workshops and courses for all abilities Gorgeous fabrics, haberdashery and essentials for dressmakers and quilters Sewing patterns, Stylecraft yarn, Craft kits 2 Cucumber Lane, Brundall, Norwich NR13 5QY

Fabrics & Haberdashery E-mail: Jaylaurs54@gmail.com Join us on facebook at ‘Jaylaurs Sewing Studios’

Bugweed’s Ltd is dedicated to sewing and crafts. We teach adults and children, make bespoke items, host birthday parties, hen parties and baby showers and sell a wide range of fabric and haberdashery.

Customer Loyalty Scheme

Tel: 07495 012546

01603 716140 www.gillybee.co.uk

Email: info@bugweeds.co.uk

Tel. 01652 650047

www.bugweeds.co.uk

54 Wrawby Street, Brigg, DN20 8JE

Follow us on Facebook: @bugweeds

Sew Saturday 6th October, 2018

Proudly sponsored by:

NORTH YORKSHIRE

NOTTINGHAMSHIRE

SOUTH YORKSHIRE

STAFFORDSHIRE

Newark Craft Hub London Road Carpark Newark on Trent Nottinghamshire NG24 1TN 01636 705909 www.newarkcrafthub.co.uk

NORTH YORKSHIRE

NOTTINGHAMSHIRE

630 Abbeydale Road, Sheffield S7 2BA Tel: 0114 258 3763 Email: patchworkgarden@hotmail.com www.thepatchworkgarden.co.uk

SOUTH YORKSHIRE

STAFFORDSHIRE

Utterly Delightful Fabric Emporium

• fabric • haberdashery • yarn workshops • classes • parties

Weekly Sewing classes and Workshops

36 gillygate, york www.theyorkmakery.co.uk

NOTTINGHAMSHIRE

131 Outram Street, Sutton-in-Ashfield, NG17 4BG 07738 359960 www.sewiliciousfabrics.co.uk

01709 814 444

www.fromragstostitches.co.uk hello@fromragstostitches.co.uk

OXFORDSHIRE

STAFFORDSHIRE

FOLLOW US ON:

SUFFOLK

The Corner Patch a little corner of patchwork heaven

NOTTINGHAMSHIRE

Please contact us on: 01827 288344 thesewcialstudio@gmail.com www.thesewcialstudio.co.uk 80-82 Watling Street, Wilnecote,Tamworth B77 5BJ

85 High Street, Maltby, Rotherham S66 7BL

LADYBROOK LIBRARY

Ladybrook Lane, Mansfield, Nottinghamshire NG18 5JH Join us for the national SEW SATURDAY event and make Spirit The Unicorn from material or felt.

Suitable for all. FREE! From 10:30am - 11:30am.

No booking necessary, just turn up and take part!

Tel: 01623 677200 Email: ask@inspireculture.org.uk

❖ Extensive dressmaking and quilting fabrics ❖ Haberdashery ❖ Friendly Sewing Classes ❖ Elna and Jaguar machine dealership

Witney Sewing and Knitting Centre, 52 High Street, Witney, Oxon, OX28 6HQ Telephone: 01993 702772/704535

Beautiful Fabrics and Haberdashery for all your Sewing needs.

Sales service and Sewing machine repairs.

Opening Hours: Tues - Sat 10 - 5 Late Night Wednesday until 8 Fabric, Wadding, Threads and Haberdashery Workshop & Classes for all Abilities

Telephone: 01785 859360 e-mail: jane@thecornerpatch.co.uk 12 High Street, Eccleshall, Stafford ST21 6BZ

❅❆❅❅❋❅❅❋❅❆❅❅❆❅❆

www.thecornerpatch.co.uk

SOMERSET

STAFFORDSHIRE

SEWING MACHINES & SERVICING - SEWING CLASSES - FABRICS & HABERDASHERY “WE’RE ALL THINGS SEWING” • Brother, Husqvarna & Pfaff sewing machines and overlockers.

• Sole UK stockist of “Screw B Do” screwdrivers.

• Fun sewing classes for all abilities.

• Fabulous fabrics for quilting, dressmaking, sewing & crafts.

24 BURY STREET, STOWMARKET, IP14 1HH 01449 257070 www.stitchxstitch.co.uk @stitchxstitchstowmarket

SUFFOLK

Somerset Sewing Machines Unit D, Cartwright Mill Business Centre, Brue Ave, Colley Lane, Bridgwater, Somerset TA6 5LT Stockist of: Happy Embroidery, Juki, Singer Sewing, Britannia Sewing & Embroidery machines.

WORKSHOPS AVAILABLE www.somersetsewingmachines.com

01278 453502 info@somersetsewingmachines.co.uk

Fabrics, Haberdashery, Wool, Ribbons, Patterns; New fabrics every week Designer Fabrics • Materials • Equipment

33 King Street, Sudbury, CO10 2EQ

www.lingardfabrics.co.uk

Sew Saturday 6th October, 2018

Proudly sponsored by:

SUFFOLK

WARWICKSHIRE

WILTSHIRE

YORKSHIRE

THE CRAFTY

07946 659942

www.kwilterskorner.com Extensive range of designer, quality quilting cottons and craft fabrics with supplies for home decor, bag making, dressmaking and general sewing. We stock quilting threads, including YLI, Mettler and Gütermann plus notions and books.

01926 408247 www.thequiltersden.co.uk 9 SMITH STREET, WARWICK CV34 4JA

SURREY

WEST SUSSEX

Over 1200 bolts of fabric from leading manufacturers including: Riley Blake, Lewis & Irene, Makower, Moda, and Dashwood.

Wharfside, Couch Lane, Devizes, Wiltshire SN10 1EB

WILTSHIRE

EWES CABIN

Our inspirational fabrics and yarns will feed your creativity for years to come

Find us at Smith’s Nurseries Villa Lane Thorngumbald HU12 8BA Call 01482 898501

@thecraftyewescabin

YORKSHIRE

30 Church Road Great Bookham, Surrey KT23 3PW 01372 459908 info@patchworkcabin.co.uk www.patchworkcabin.co.uk

Haberdashery & Workshops, Clothing Alterations & Soft Furnishings 6 Green Dragon Yard, Knaresborough, North Yorkshire HG5 8AU info@zipinn.co.uk

Specialist for all things Patchwork and Quilting Lots of beautiful quality designer fabrics as well as sewing notions, patterns, kits and Blocks of the Month.

Introducing our New Mystery Quilt programme, full details of which can be found on our website.

Classes catering for all abilities as well as weekly club days, all in a friendly and relaxed environment with knowledgeable staff.

TYNE & WEAR

01423 869934 WILTSHIRE

WEST SUSSEX

YORKSHIRE

The Little House of Patchwork Fabrics - Threads - Quilting Supplies

JOIN US ON THE 13TH OCTOBER

64 Saville Street, North Shields NE30 1AZ Tel: 0191 258 2380

New Range of Batik Fabrics

Email: info@readythreadysew.co.uk

Order online: www.thelittlehouseofpatchwork.co.uk

www.readythreadysew.co.uk

The Grange, Palmer Place, North Mundham, Chichester, West Sussex PO20 1JW · 01243 696670 · Open Monday-Friday 9.30am-4.00pm

WARWICKSHIRE

Workshops

Retreat Weekends

Craft & Sewing Workshops for toddlers through to adults in Pewsey, Wiltshire

07469 175195 www.thecraftstudioinpewsey.co.uk

WEST YORKSHIRE

164A Roberttown Lane Liversedge, WF15 7LT 01924 676 329 info@fabricateshop.co.uk Designer Dressmaking & Quilting Fabrics, Sewing Patterns, Haberdashery and Sewing Workshops

Follow us on:

5a York Buildings, Edlington Lane, Edlington, Doncaster DN12 1BU

01709 860881 www.sewcutefabrics.co.uk

sew gifts

TRANSFORM YOUR SEWING SPACE WITH OUR

fabric tubs

Hands up if you only need to blink and your craft room ends up in a pickle! While us creatives have the right to be a little messy, there’s no harm in having a tidy every now and again – plus, it’s the perfect excuse to get stitchy! These fabrics tubs from Corinne Bradd are so easy to make; simply adjust the measurements to make a bigger or smaller pot to suit your desk.

Get started • Cotton outer fabric, 25cm x 55cm • Cotton lining, 25cm x 55cm • Medium-weight iron-on interfacing, two, 25cm x 55cm 1cm seam allowance used throughout unless otherwise stated.

Stitch a fabric tub

1

Iron the interfacing to the reverse of both fabric lengths. On each piece, mark and cut out a 20cm x 38cm rectangle and a 13cm diameter circle. Take the outer fabric and, with right sides facing, bring the two shortest edges together.

Stitch down this edge using a 1cm seam allowance and press the seams open.

2

Gently fold this tube in half lengthways, then in half again, taking care not to make a crease, but add a small pencil mark at the quarter points.

Open out and fold the circle in the same way marking the quarter points. Place the circle, with right side facing inwards, at the bottom of the tube. Line up the pencil marks on the circle with the marks on the tube and pin at each mark and again in between. Stitch around the diameter using a

67

sewmag.co.uk

0.5cm seam allowance.

Take care to smooth out any folds or creases as you sew.

Turn inside out.

Repeat the same process with the lining pieces but don’t turn inside out, instead slot the lining inside the outer piece. Stitch together around the circumference, 1cm from the top edges. Fold down outwards 1cm, then again 5cm to conceal the stitches but expose the lining. Press with an iron.

3

HEAD ON A STITCHING ADVENTURE WITH

Get started • Fabric, white cotton, 50cm • Embroidery thread, various colours • Hook and eye fastening

The Moomins Nestled in the heart of the Finnish woodland, you’ll find the setting of one of our favourite fairytale families: The Moomins. Inspired by these loveable characters, here you’ll find two unique gifts to stitch: a delicately embroidered collar and a pair of felt booties – perfect for adding a touch of nostalgia to your Christmas.

Make a sweet Snufkin collar

sew

1

Download the template at sewmag.co.uk, print and copy onto tracing paper.

Cut two identical fabric pieces for one collar. Fold the fabric in half and place the marked edge of the template along the folded edge. Pin the template in place and draw around it with tailor’s chalk, then move along and repeat. Pin through both layers of fabric, then cut out.

Trace the image of Snufkin or Little My onto tracing paper, or find an image of another Moomin character you’d like to embroider. Colour the reverse side of the tracing paper with a pencil, ensuring you cover all the lines of the character. Place the tracing paper right side up on the collar, then draw over the tracing to transfer the image to the fabric.

Embroider the character onto both corners of one collar piece, being careful not to pull the thread too tight.

Place the two fabric pieces together with the embroidery on the inside. Stitch around the edge of the collar, leaving a 1cm seam. Do not sew the area marked as the fold line.

To ensure your collar sits flat, carefully snip away triangles from the seam. Turn the collar right side out, then use a pencil to sharpen the corners, gently pushing it into shape. Handsew the remaining opening on the back of the collar as neatly as possible. Press the collar and attach the hook and eye fastening to the front top corner.

free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates

2

3

© Moomin Characters™

4

Sew Tip! Turn to p46 for a photo-guide on clipping curves!

68

sewmag.co.uk

sew gifts

Get started

Sew Tip!

• Pure wool felt sheet, 30cm square • Contrasting embroidery thread • Assorted buttons • Hat elastic

You can use felt to create soft buttons by simply cutting out shapes and sewing them together

Sew booties for Little My

1

Download the template at sewmag.co.uk, print and trace onto gridded tracing paper. Cut out each piece from felt and label. Fold the sole in half lengthways and repeat for the upper piece. Fold the small tab in half, and in half again lengthways; this will give you a central point to work with.

Position the tab in the centre of the upper, so that the tab loops from front to back.

Sew with running stitch to secure into position; knot the loose end of the thread between the layers so that it’s hidden from view. Find the centre of the upper and place the sole into position, with the heel sitting on the bottom edge and positioned in the centre. Bring the upper and the sole together, then using embroidery thread, blanket stitch the two pieces together, starting from the heel and working along the outside of the foot first. Stitch towards the toe and stop three-quarters of the way up.

Return to the centre of the heel and blanket stitch around the outside of the foot until you reach the same point on the opposite side – this will leave the toe section open.

Overlap the fabric at the toe and blanket stitch all three layers together. If you need to, pin the curved edges together at the toe to hold it in position while you continue to blanket stitch around the front of the shoe.

Repeat to make the other foot; when sewing the upper onto the second bootie, it should be a mirror image of the first. Take a length of hat elastic, loop around the felt button design and secure

2

3

on the opposite side. Measure and cut the elastic to length.

Cut an additional felt circle and position as shown in the photo, then pin in place.

Make a small hole in the felt circle centre with the point of the scissors.

Push the elastic through and knot it, ensuring the loop is the

right length to pull over the button. Sew the felt button on securely, taking care to hide the knot under the circle so it is not visible inside the bootie. Position the button detail on the opposite side, and sew on securely. Loop the elastic around the button.

5

© Moomin Characters™

4

get the

69

sewmag.co.uk

book

Bring a touch of magic into your home this Christmas with The Moomin Craft Book. It features 26 beautiful projects inspired by author Tove Jansson, £25, amazon.co.uk

sew PROMOTION

The team’s top picks for Christmas

Wish Lis t

Organising Christmas outfits and gifts before the festive period begins is what us stitchers do best! That’s why the Sew HQ elves present to you Stoff & Stil’s exciting new collection of fabrics, accessories and more to help inspire your winter wonderland projects!

Tweet tweet

You can always count on Stoff & Stil to find fabrics and colours which match seasonal trends – just take a look at this stretch jersey material! Create jumpers and leggings for little ones using this lovely lightweight material which has a cute robin design. Stretch jersey grey melange with flower, £14.50 per metre

Razzle dazzle With over 38 years’ experience in fashion and interior design, it comes as no surprise that Stoff & Stil’s haberdashery is super on-trend. These gorgeous gold tassels are ideal for attaching onto cushion covers to create a cosy oasis at home – we can’t think of anything better than snuggling up in a sea of comfy pillows, can you? £3.50 per bag

Modern twist

Stoff and Stil’s new collection is characterised by luxurious fabrics in eye-catching colours and golden tones, so naturally, we can’t get enough of it!

This soft material in shades of pink can be made into stylish curtains or a comfy cushion. Voile redbrown with bordeaux leaves, £8.89 per metre

Let’s go shopping Will polka dots ever stop being the most adorable go-to design for children? We wouldn’t count on it! This French Terry material can be whipped up into a cute jumper, toddler’s romper or lovely two piece; simply grab Stoff & Stil’s matching rose thread and you’ll be ready to start sewing!

French Terry powder melange with lurex/ dot, £14.50 per metre

Field of flowers

This stunning floral fabric screams ‘bedroom chic’! The 100% cotton material is incredibly lightweight, making it easy to work with when turning it into gorgeous pillow and quilt covers. The understated design is the perfect canvas to decorate with cosy throws and cushions, too. Jacquard nature with multicoloured flowers, £18.95 per metre

Party ready

Say ‘hello’ to your new favourite LBD! This woven black viscose with a cute bird design can easily be transformed into a stunning wrap-around or tie dress for upcoming Christmas parties, and the material drapes oh-so elegantly, accentuating your silhouette. Woven viscose black with white birds, £6.75 per metre

All products are available from stoffstil.co.uk 70

sewmag.co.uk

sew sewhome gifts

FOUR WAYS WITH

makower uk

Joyeux Collection Get started • Fabric, Makower UK Joyeux

Projects exclusive to

• Chenille stems • Fibre filling

sew!

• Cotton quilt wadding • Bakers twine • Coloured felt • Bias binding • Narrow ribbon • Small buttons • Coloured card • Ric rac braid • Rice • Embroidery thread • Pom-pom

Get your creative caps on stitchers, its time to get started on your Christmas crafting!

This month, Sew designer Corinne Bradd has been busy creating four festive makes from Makower UK’s vibrant Joyeux fabric collection, which features a range of merry prints including presents, reindeers and snowflakes. Read on for step-by-step instructions on how to create your very own candy cane bunting, gift labels, mug cosy, and of course, the latest mascot – Bobbin the Robin!

To find your nearest Makower UK stockist, visit makoweruk.com 71

sewmag.co.uk

✽✸

Make in 30 minutes!

Create candy cane bunting

Stitch bottle labels

1

3

1

2

4

Cut two strips of fabric, 5cm x 25cm, and fold each in half lengthways, right sides together. Stitch down the long edge with a 5mm seam allowance, and gather one end of the tube tightly before turning right sides out with a loop turner.

Firmly stuff the first 8cm of the tube using small pieces of fibre filling, and push it down with a knitting needle to avoid any lumps. Take a chenille stem and fold it in half, then push this into the unstuffed part of the tube, folding down the top of the fabric so that you can hold the stem.

❉

H

Cut four 5cm fabric squares and sew into pairs, right sides together, on one edge. Sew the pairs into a block, matching up the centre seam on each piece. Press the block and stitch to a plain 9cm square, leaving a 3cm gap in the middle of the top edge.

Turn out and fold in the raw edges of the gap.

Cut a fabric strip, 3cm x 12cm, then fold in half right sides together and sew down the long edge. Turn

Continue stuffing the tube around the chenille stem until you reach the top.

Unfold the fabric, turn in 5mm along the top edge, and sew small gathers along the fold line.

Add the last bit of stuffing, gather up the top and fasten off.

Make a second cane in this way, then tie the two unwired ends together with bakers twine, 2cm from the ends.

Bend the tops of the canes and bring the dipped ends together, tying with bakers twine to create a heart shape. Hang several hearts from a length of twine.

2

out with a loop turner and fold the strip in half. Pin the raw ends of the loops inside the turning gap on the block.

Hand-stitch around the edge of the block, securing the loop as you do so, using two strands of embroidery thread and a neat backstitch. Tie a length of ribbon into a neat bow and stitch onto the centre of the label. Cut card, 7.5cm square, and glue it onto the back of the tag so you can write on it.

3

Tie your label with twine and wrap around presents, too!

“‘Hang these candy cane hearts over a fireplace or living room door to add a cute festive touch to your home décor” Corinne Bradd, sew designer

72

sewmag.co.uk

sew home

❋ H

ing us name our mascot!

Thanks to Stephanie Robilliard for help ira threads! Help us with We hope you enjoy your prize – a set of Made ook.com/sewhq faceb suggestions for next month’s toy at

sew

free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates

✸

Make a mug cosy

1

Cut 32, 3.5cm squares, from fabric scraps. Arrange in a four by eight grid on a flat surface.

Sew pairs of squares right sides together with a 5mm seam allowance. Stitch together into blocks of four, then sew the blocks into pairs.

Continue stitching the pieces together in this way, matching up the existing seams. Press the patchwork and pin onto wadding, 11cm x 22cm.

Topstitch along all the seam lines and trim the wadding to the same size as the patchwork.

Bind the edges of the patchwork with co-ordinating bias binding and mitring the corners as you do so. Cut two 12cm binding strips, fold in one raw end, then fold in half

2 3

lengthways. Slip-stitch the folded edges together to make ties.

Fold under the raw ends of each tie and hand-stitch to the ends of the patchwork panel.

Add a colourful button over the join and tie the wrap around the mug, fastening it inside the handle.

Bobbin the Robin

1

Download and print the template at sewmag.co.uk.

Cut two pairs of wing shapes from different fabrics.

Pin right sides together onto wadding and sew around the curved edges, leaving the flat end open. Clip curves, turn out and press. Cut two tail pieces and sew together in the same way. Fold the flat end of the tail in half and tack.

Cut two body pieces from dark-coloured fabric and one from a magenta shade. Pin the dark pieces right sides together on one half, inserting the tail where marked, then stitch.

Tack one wing onto the unsewn edge of each dark body piece. Sew this onto the edge of the magenta body piece, leaving a 4cm gap below one wing for turning.

Turn out the body so that the wings and tail extend.

Stuff firmly with filling, fold in the raw edges and slipstitch closed. Cut two strips of light-coloured fabric, 6cm x 17cm, fold in half and sew down the long edge to make tubes. Flatten the tubes so that the seam lays in the middle

4

““Everyone knows that the best way to keep out the cold is with a hot cuppa! So stitch this mug cosy and snuggle up with your favourite blanket this winter”

2

Corinne Bradd, sew designer

Why not whip up a coffee cup for when you’re on the go? For Corinne’s tutorial, head over to youtube.com/userTheCraftsChannel

3 73

sewmag.co.uk

before sewing across one end and turning out.

Fill the bottom third of each tube with dry rice, then add fibre filling to the rest of the tube before folding in 5mm along the top and tacking closed. Neatly hand-stitch the tops of each leg to the base of the seam on either side of the body front, then remove the tacking.

Cut four feet from orange felt, sew together with a small running stitch, and lightly stuff before closing the seam. Stitch the feet onto the bottom of each leg. Make and attach a beak in the same way, adding two small black buttons above it for eyes. Cut a red felt hat, sew up the back seam and stitch to the top of the head.

Add a ric rac braid trim to the brim and a small white pom-pom to the tip.

4 5

H

❋

sew PROMOTION

Spotlight on...

� £299*

The company celebrates its 50th year in the UK with some fabulous winter offers!

�

£449*

�

£899*

�

IN THE UK

Bargain buy

Top-notch model

Boost your skills

The Janome GD8100 includes features which both beginners and advanced sewers will love.

It has 100 built-in stitches, plus a one-step buttonhole in three styles, making it ideal for all types of fabric. With an easy-to-use needle threader, a speed control slider, and a dropfeed for free motion embroidery, you’ll be well on your way to whipping up homemade creations!

With 40 stitches, an automatic one-step buttonhole with three styles, and 20 pattern selection keys, the Janome Sewist 740DC model is a reliable machine for sewers of all abilities. This version also features an easy-set bobbin, built-in stitch reference charts, and an LED light so you won’t strain your eyes when working with dark fabrics.

The award-winning Atelier 5 machine will take your stitchy skills to the next level! This highly commended model has 210mm of arm space and includes 170 built-in stitches, as well as an automatic one-step buttonhole in ten styles and a remote thread cutter port. On top of this, it also has 91 needle positions, an easy-change needle plate to enhance straight stitch performance and a knee lift to help pivot on corners.

CHECK OUT THE WHOLE COLLECTION AT JANOME.CO.UK 74

sewmag.co.uk

*The Janome Sewing with Style promotion starts 1st September 2018 and ends 2nd January 2019. (All offers subject to stock availability).

IN THE UK

• CHRISTMAS SPECIAL • CHRISTMAS SPECIAL • CHRISTMAS SPECIAL • CHRISTMAS SPECIAL •

your essential guide to

A COSY CHRISTMAS Project exclusive to

sew!

Christmas is the only time of the year where you can go all out with decorations! So we've cherry-picked four projects for you to sink your pins into, including sequin baubles, easysew mittens and gift tags to give your home some razzle dazzle. You'll also find simple steps to create seasonal stockings and cross-stitch napkins, and you can turn over the page to get started on these comfy cushions!

Share your makes with us on social media @sewHQ

!

75

sewmag.co.uk

• CHRISTMAS SPECIAL • CHRISTMAS SPECIAL • CHRISTMAS SPECIAL • CHRISTMAS SPECIAL •

Get started • Fabric, various prints • Cushion pad • Zip fitting

Stitch an appliqué cushion

1

Cut a rectangle from the main fabric, 30cm x 74cm. Fold each 30cm end over by 1cm and another 1cm to catch the raw edge

inside the fold, then sew along each end. Trim a different fabric to a 26cm square, and another fabric to a 24cm square.

Press each edge to the back by 1cm. Pin and sew the 26cm square of fabric centrally to the main fabric, and repeat with the

2

24cm square. With wrong sides facing, fold each hemmed edge towards the middle, overlapping them by 10cm.

Sew all edges with a 1cm seam allowance. Turn the cushion cover through the fold, straighten, press and insert a cushion pad.

3

76

sewmag.co.uk

!

Find the other cushion projects at sewmag.co.uk

• CHRISTMAS SPECIAL • CHRISTMAS SPECIAL • CHRISTMAS SPECIAL • CHRISTMAS SPECIAL •

Get started • Fat quarters, Gütermann Long Island • Lining cotton, 45cm x 60cm

Assemble a stocking

1

Download and print the template from sewmag.co.uk. Cut two stockings from lining fabric, two rectangles from printed cotton, 17cm x 24cm, and a strip, 4cm x 20cm. Cut the remaining printed cottons into random straight-edged pieces, and place two similar sized pieces together, right sides facing, then stitch down one edge. Continue doing this, adding more pieces until there are two 45cm x 30cm fabric pieces.

Press the seams to the back of the fabric, either to the left or right side depending on the stitching. Cut the outer stocking pieces from this patchwork. Mark and cut one piece of patchwork with the right side of the template facing up and the second piece facing down. Don't disrupt the open stitches.

Pin the shorter side of the cuff to the top of a stocking lining

piece, leaving a 1cm seam allowance. Take a corresponding patchwork stocking and pin it to the other short side of the same cuff. Pair with right sides facing up so the stocking lining and patchwork are positioned in a mirror image. Stitch where pinned and repeat with the other stocking pieces.

With right sides facing, patchwork on top of patchwork and lining on top of lining, pin together around the whole perimeter leaving a 13cm gap at the bottom of the lining foot pieces. Fold the 4cm x 20cm strip in half lengthways and stitch down the length, leaving a 1cm seam. Trim excess fabric and turn inside out.

Move the seam to the middle, press and fold in half to create a loop, keeping the seam hidden on the inside of the fold. Pin this with the loop facing inwards in between the cuff pieces (where the cuff meets the patchwork and to the back of the stocking, the same side as the heel sits).

Stitch from the bottom of the lining up and around the cuff, patchwork, cuff again

and back down to the lining, leaving a 13cm gap. Pull the patchwork through this gap and press. Sew in the hole and tuck the lining inside the patchwork.

4

2

5

3

6

!

77

sewmag.co.uk

sew

free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates

• CHRISTMAS SPECIAL • CHRISTMAS SPECIAL • CHRISTMAS SPECIAL • CHRISTMAS SPECIAL •

• Sequins • Coloured felt • Twine • Cardstock • Fine Posca pen, white

Create felt mittens

1

Download and print the template from sewmag. co.uk. Trace the template onto the felt and cut out. Use

STITCH IN A DAY!

sew

free template download

2

sewmag.co.uk /templates

Get started • Plain linen fabric, 1m • Embroidery thread

Sew cross-stitch napkins

1

Download and print the template from sewmag.co.uk.

Cut four pieces of fabric, 50cm square. Measure 50cm along the visible weave of the linen and mark the size by snipping at the edge.

Next to the snip, pick out the first thread of linen. Keep hold of this thread and cut next to it along the fabric grain, using the loose thread as a guide. If you cut all of the fabric in this way, each piece will be perfectly square.

Cross-stitch the first napkin starting from the centre of the snowflake design. To find the centre, take the fabric and fold it into square quarters and lightly press. Unfold and choose one quarter to cross-stitch onto.

Repeat to find the centre point of that quarter.

Hold the fabric with your thumb and forefinger, then use your little finger to anchor it and keep your hand

2 3 78

sewmag.co.uk

relaxed. Begin with a knotless waste knot: pass a needle from front to back, leaving the tail of the thread up and out of the way.

Work it into the stitches on the back when the thread is finished.

Pass the original tail through the needle and weave it through to the back in the same way.

This make has four threads for each 'square' – you can alter this as long as the size remains consistent. The design is transferred onto the fabric by counting the squares on the chart and matching them to the threads of the fabric.

Once you've finished crossstitching the design, hem the edges by folding and pressing 1cm on each edge of the napkin. Repeat this until all edges have been folded and pressed twice. Unfold and use the fold lines to trim a little off of each corner.

Fold each side in along the previous fold lines, the corners should be neatly mitred with the raw edges hidden inside the folds. Press and pin in place. Machine-stitch around all four sides of the hem, sewing close to the folded edge. Pivot and continue sewing at each corner. Repeat for the outermost edge of the napkin to create a twin-stitched look.

4 5

6

!

Get started

Find this project online

a single strand of coloured embroidery thread to stitch sequins to one side of the mitten, threading in the hole and out towards the edge.

Snip felt, 1cm x 8cm, and fold in half to make a loop. Pin to the top side of the glove and affix the shape to darker felt. Sew a running stitch around the outline, 1cm from the edge.

Don't stitch across the top of the glove, but ensure the hanging loop is secured. Trim the fabric to create a 1mm border around the mitten.

Confessions of a sewing addict Corinne reminisces over Christmas dinners past and plans her next festive makes!

“This year’s festivities will be different – I’m determined to refresh, reuse or replace all of my stitched Yuletide makes by the end of October” I confess, working in the magazine business means that planning for Christmas began about four months ago for me! My friend

who works in a card shop always moans when the first boxes of festive greetings go onto the shelves in August, but as far as I’m concerned, that’s leaving it pretty late! Don’t get me wrong, I’m not a super organised homemaker who plans every second of the Christmas celebrations; I’m more of a slap-dash sloven who knows everything will be fine as long as the turkey is cooked through and the cat hasn’t licked the pigs in blankets. My elderly dad, bless him, starts worrying about buying festive food in the last week of November (he’s the host, I cook, my sister’s family eat), because he thinks all of the good stuff will sell out.

Whereas I tend to live by the motto of ‘let’s just eat what’s already filling up the freezer’...

Although the fare on the table might be a mismatch of everyone’s favourite treats, the setting itself is a carefully curated arrangement of cloth, napkins and quilted table runners, with the food being transported from the kitchen using seasonal oven gloves – all of which have appeared in print at some point.

This year will be different though – I’m determined to refresh, reuse or replace all of my stitched Yuletide makes by the end of October, then put them all in one safe place so they can (or maybe cannot) be found easily. The first thing on my to-do list will be to re-cover my burnt oven gloves in the darkest Crimbo fabric I can find, so that when I inevitably singe them again, it won’t be so noticeable! Next up are the hot mats which double up as absorbent drying mats when the draining board is full. They’re made from layers of old towels topped with

CHECK OUT OUR BLOG TO CREATE YOUR VERY OWN TEAM OF STITCHY REINDEERS! SEWMAG.CO.UK/BLOG

Corinne chats all things festive this mon

th!

a beautiful new patchwork panel – they’re so handy, I don’t know how I ever lived without them! I’ve already made my wintery fabric bowl covers which look like tiny shower caps, but I need a few larger ones to cater for Christmas; I always cook for 14 when there’s actually only seven of us, so we’re eating leftovers until the New Year.

I’m sure there will be other things I’ll think of as the weather turns. I know I’ll succumb to the temptation of making at least two more quilts just for the fun of it, and the other day I caught myself cutting a thick cotton pillowcase into four and binding the edges to make super absorbent tea towels. I’m sure I can also disguise some more stitched items as Christmas gifts by filling them with cosmetics or baked goodies and calling them a hamper.

Let the festivities begin!

INVITE THE FESTIVE SPIRIT INTO YOUR HOME WITH THIS FLORAL EMBROIDERED STOCKING! SEWMAG.CO.UK

BE PREPARED FOR THE HOLIDAY SEASON WITH CORINNE’S HANDY TEA TOWELS ON YOUTUBE. COM/USER/ THECRAFTSCHANNEL

FINISH OFF YOUR CHRISTMAS DINNER TABLE DÉCOR WITH THIS SCANDI-INSPIRED CENTREPIECE. SEWMAG.CO.UK

SEE CORINNE IN ACTION AT YOUTUBE.COM/THECRAFTSCHANNEL 79

sewmag.co.uk

Worth over

£160!

BACK TO NATURE

�

Crafter's Companion have teamed up with renowned artist Sheena Douglass, to bring you stunning stencils and masks. Each set is inspired

by British woodlands, and includes an outer stencil and inner mask, complete with a co-ordinating stencil to create beautiful silhouettes on fabric, paper and mixedmedia projects. Available at crafterscompanion.co.uk We have two sets to give away. To enter, tick WOODLAND

� �

Worth over

£160!

LOOKING SHARP

�

Win with

Dressmaking has never been easier thanks to Needle Sharp! Its monthly subscription box lets you pick a pattern and fabric, then it does all the hard work for you – the company find the buttons, fastening, interfacing and even the needle and thread you need to complete your chosen garment! Available at needle-sharp.com We have one three-month subscription to give away.

To enter, tick SUBSCRIPTION

�

�

TREAT YOURSELF TO OVER £1,200 OF GOODIES THIS CHRISTMAS!

�

�

FABRIC FEVER

Sink your needles into £150 of beautiful dressmaking fabrics from Minerva Crafts! Enter today to win a bundle of hand-picked materials from the latest collections – will you be surprised with luscious crepe, gorgeous gingham, or maybe seasonal velvet? No matter what you win, it's bound to bring your dressmaking projects to life! Available at minervacrafts.com We have one bundle to give away. To enter, tick BUNDLE

Worth

£150!

� BRILLIANT BOOKS

�

8

to win!

Win not one but two lovely keepsakes from Chronicle Books! The first is a ceramic bibliophile vase, which can be used to hold flowers or filled with haberdashery bits and bobs. The second is the eye-catching, One Line a Day memory book, which features brushstrokes accented in glimmering gold foil.

Available at chroniclebooks.com We have four pairs to give away. To enter, tick BOOKS 80

sewmag.co.uk

Fill out the form or visit sewmag.co.uk/giveaways to win big today!

5

A GIFT FOR EWE

FINISHING TOUCH

Do you want to give your garments a polished finish? Then search no further than these high-quality Italian leather tags! Not only will they make your products look professional, but they add an artisan charm, especially on leather bags and homemade garments. Custom leather tags

by JS Leather Craft, available at jslasercraft.co.uk We have seven packs of 25 labels to give away.

To enter, tick LEATHER

Enter today to get your hands on this adorable Dear Ewe bundle! In the set you'll find four contemporary greeting cards, one craftinginspired print which is sure to compliment your sewing space, a must-have photo card for any creator wanting to show off their makes, and one fine bone china mug.

Available at dearewe.com We have three bundles to give away.

To enter, tick DEAREWE

to win!

7

to win!

MAKE YOUR MARK

It's impossible to keep track of a lifetime of holidays, right? Wrong! Record cherished memories in each stitch with this world map keepsake: add names, dates, routes taken and souvenirs collected onto the canvas, and complete the memento with four vibrant skeins of embroidery thread. Available at bnifty.co.uk We have five to give away.

To enter, tick MAP

£170!

10 to win!

Just tick the boxes!

�

To enter our giveaways via post, tick the box that corresponds with the prizes you want to win and send your entry in by 01.11.18.

Mark your envelope: Sew Christmas Giveaways, PO Box 443, Ipswich, Suffolk, IP2 8WG.

MAKE A SPLASH

Hawthorn Handmade's kits are ideal for anyone who wants to try a new craft. Once you've finished stitching up a storm, wind down with this whale needle felting kit, complete with British wool in a variety of colours, felting needles and detailed photo instructions – simply add a foam block work surface and you're ready to begin! Available at hawthornhandmade.com We have ten kits to give away. To enter, tick WHALE

WOODLAND

BUNDLE

SUBSCRIPTION

LEATHER

BOOKS

MAP

DEAREWE WHALE

�

� �

� Mr/Mrs/Miss/Ms/Other..............................................................................

!

Worth over

Name......................................................................................................................

Address.................................................................................................................. ...................................................................................................................................

What made you buy this month’s Sew? FREE Simplicity pattern

Postcode................................................................................................................

I Subscribe

Other

Daytime phone...................................................................................................

(please specify).................................................................................................

Mobile....................................................................................................................

............................................................................................................................

Email......................................................................................................................

What are your favourite projects this issue?

Date of birth.......................................................................................................

8383 ............................................................................................................................

sewmag.co.uk sewmag.co.uk 81

sewmag.co.uk

Only one entry per household. Terms and conditions can be found online at sewmag.co.uk

dd F R E E T I E D I P Craft D Y E B O O K F O R Store E V E RY R E A D E R ! *

Here at Sew we have arranged for all readers to receive a FREE* Tie Dip Dye book by Pepa Martin and Karen Davis, worth £14.99. This book shows us how simple it is to create beautiful, bespoke fabric designs with not much more than dye and a few items that most of us already have in our homes. Tie Dip Dye will inspire crafters of all skill levels to try this versatile technique for the first time or expand on their current dyeing knowledge.

25

Worth

£14.99

d

d

INCLUDES FASHION &

LIFESTYLE PROJECTS!

L L I F G N I K C O T GREAT S

ER!

Buy now at CRAFTSTOREUK.COM/SEWXMAS Simply enter discount code DYETIE in your shopping basket or call us at 0800 9233 005 % HOW TO ORDER Simply complete the coupon below and either fill in your credit card details or send a cheque or postal order for the correct amount (made payable to Aceville Publications Ltd) to Aceville Publications Ltd, Office 5 & 6 Amphenol Building, Rutherford Drive, Wellingborough, NN8 3LR.

Title

Tie Dip Dye OFFICE CODE: SEWXMASRO

Price FREE

Quantity

Total

MY DETAILS ARE: please complete in BLOCK CAPITALS Title

Initial

Surname

Address

Postcode

£0.00

Contact tel no.

Postage

*£3.99

Email

TOTAL

£3.99

1

Terms and conditions and your data protection preferences: *UK postage costs £3.99. Orders must be received by 3rd November 2019. Postal orders must be submitted with a completed coupon and a cheque or postal order for the correct amount to cover postage. Not to be used in conjunction with any other offer. Offer subject to availability. While stocks last, we reserve the right to send an alternative book. We can only provide refunds for damaged or faulty goods. Open to UK residents only. Please allow 28 days for delivery. If paying by cheque delivery will be delayed until cheque is cleared.

Aceville Publications Ltd. (publishers of Sew Magazine and Craft Store UK) will use your details to post you a free book and communicate other relevant information regarding your request.

At Aceville we don’t do spam. We want to keep in touch, but only if you want to hear from us. So we can let you know about what’s going, including our great offers and special deals please agree to receiving emails from us by ticking this box £ We promise we won’t share your information with anyone else and you can manage what we send you at any time by following the link to our preference centre at the bottom of any of our emails.

£

I enclose a cheque made payable to ‘Aceville Publications Ltd’

Please charge my

Visa

Mastercard

Switch/Maestro (Issue No.)

CARD NUMBER

EXPIRY DATE

SIGNED :

SECURITY NUMBER (on back of card)

TODAY’S DATE:

On-line stockists of Liberty fabrics - Including Liberty Tana Lawn, Needlecord, Jersey and Lantana.

‘Indie’ dressmaking and crafting patterns - Hot Patterns, Colette, Serendipity Studio, Sewaholic, Gather, By Hand, Papercut Christine Haynes, Cashmerette, Rosie & Me, and more ...

www.sewbox.co.uk

VISIT US ON STAND F2 at KNITTING & STITCHIN G 11-14 OCT 20 18 use CODE TRADE156 for ticket discount

www.online-fabrics.co.uk

388-394 Foleshill Road, Coventry, West Midlands CV6 5AN

Tel: 02476 687776 | Email: info@online-fabrics.co.uk 25% discount for Sew readers

The greatest selection of true vintage sewing patterns, from 1920s flapper dresses, to 1970s jumpsuits.

World Wide Shipping - Credit Cards Welcome

www.sovintagepatterns.com 83

sewmag.co.uk

Download your digital patterns in

4 EASY STEPS! Carry on the festivities with our bumper downloads!

FIRST, LOG IN OR SIGN UP

1

...to the Sew website at sewmag.co.uk for FREE. Find the tab circled at the top.

NEXT, SEARCH FOR A GARMENT

2

...by title, according to the project names opposite. Click on the search tab.

ADVENT CALENDAR Make the countdown to Christmas a truly magical occasion.

CLICK THE DOWNLOAD TEMPLATE BUTTON

3

SCANDI HOUSE

Brush up on machine embroidery with this sweet favour box.

...which you will find under the main image.

SAVE THE PATTERN PDF

4

...by right clicking to save on your computer, then print out (DON’ T fit to the page!)

PRINT OUT & KEEP

Issue 100 Aug issue 2017 Issue 116 Chritsmas 2018

JUST PRINT OUT THE PAGE OR PAGES YOU NEED FROM YOUR PRINT MENU In your print menu, under Size options, be sure to select to print ‘Actual Size’, instead of ‘Fit to Page’

You can also locate the templates for this issue and all of our back issues at sewmag.co.uk/templates Designer: Amanda Walker Magazine page: 18 Total 23 pages to print

1

2

4

3

5

11

12

EL PAN ACK T&B side FRON oth FOR on b PLEAT otch uter n een o r betw Gathe

BACK FACING Cut one pair

6

8

7

9

10

13

14

15

FRONT PANEL Cut one on fold SIDE PANEL Cut two on fold BACK PANEL Cut one pair

FRONT FACING fold Cut one on

Cut one pair for back panels

BACK BODICE Cut one pair

Cut on fold for centre front panel and side panels

FRONT BODICE Cut one on fold

‘TILING’ DIGITAL PATTERNS Note that most digital patterns need to be ‘tiled’. This involves placing the A4 printouts in the correct order to form the pattern, as indicated – so get some sticky tape ready to join the sheets!

20

21

centre front

19

22

16

17

Lorem ipsum

18

WAISTBAND Cut one only

© ACEVILLE PUBLICATIONS LTD | WWW.SEWMAG.CO.UK

All projects, templates and patterns are for personal home use only and cannot be sold or used for commercial purposes.

PUDDING COSY

FESTIVE MOUSE

Move over Christmas dinner, it’s time to brighten up your breakfast.

This friendly chap is the perfect gift for little ones and big kids alike.

84

sewmag.co.uk

the BOOKS we’re loving...

Sleigh ride into a crafty Christmas with these reads

Scandi Christmas

by Christiane Bellstedt Myers

Discover how to turn your hand to a wide range of crafts with four chapters featuring embroidery, collage, sewing and baking – all inspired by Scandinavian traditions. Your friends will be in awe of the sparkling Christmas tree decorations and the scented anise wreath. Don’t forget to indulge in a spot of hygge, too, by creating a cosy atmosphere with twig candle holders.

CICO Books, £12.99, makeetc.com

Embroidered Woodland Creatures

by Aimee Ray

Take a journey through the deep, dark woods and bring enchanting animals to life with over 50 iron-on transfers! This charming book is every embroiderer’s dream: it contains an illustrated stitch library, directions on how to move the patterns and even has a back pocket to store your reusable transfer papers.

Lark Crafts, £11.70, larkcrafts.com

52 Playful Pot Holders to Appliqué

by Kim Schaefer

Delve into a fun design every week of the year! From the bestselling author who brought you Calendar Quilts and Calendar Runners, Kim shares hot-pad designs to appliqué which will ndoubtedly step-up your kitchen decorating game. With seasonal and holiday themed motifs included, this book is perfect for the upcoming festivities.

C&T Publishing, £13.30, ctpub.com

Leather Bags

by Kasia Ehrhardt Here at Sew HQ, we love books that include full-size patterns! If you do too, then you’re in for a treat with this read. Create gorgeous leather bags and

accessories with 14 fashionforward projects. Add a touch of everyday practicality to your look with a tablet sleeve and create the ideal weekend-away tote bag.

Lark Crafts, £19.56, larkcrafts.com

Dogs on Jumpers

by Sally Muir and Joanna Osborne

The dynamic duo who brought you the Best in Show books are back – this time, combining their two loves: dogs and knitting! This edition includes knitwear patterns featuring 18 dog breeds each with a graph for adult jumpers, plus eight additional designs tailored for tots!

You can even adapt the designs to capture the personality of your much-loved pet.

Pavilion, £14.99, pavilionbooks.com

Complete Feltmaking

by Gillian Harris Have you always thought feltmaking was limited to creating corsages? Well, think again! This definitive guide covers everything you need to get started, from making 3D shapes, to felting knits and cobwebs – you’ll be amazed at how many different methods Gillian teaches! With 25 projects, including a polka dot bag, comfortable slippers and snuggly tea cosy, you’ll be able to brighten up your wardrobe and home!

Pavilion, £9.99, pavilionbooks.com

Felting Fashion

by Lizzie Houghton

Acclaimed feltmaking genius, Lizzie Houghton presents inspirational techniques for keen crafters. This practical project book showcases step-by-step instructions for working with nuno felt, and includes detailed patterns and templates to make a range of garments.

Batsford, £14.99, pavilionbooks.com 85

sewmag.co.uk

sew BOOKS

who does what...

Editor, Lucy Jobber lucy.jobber@aceville.co.uk 01206 505420 Deputy Editor, Sophie Demetriades sophie.demetriades@aceville.co.uk Editorial Assistant, Laura Wybrow laura.wybrow@aceville.co.uk Contributor, Janey Goulding Publishing Director, Helen Tudor Group Editor, Lynn Martin Advertisement Sales Hannah Suttling hannah.suttling@aceville.co.uk 01206 505495 Anna Spilsbury anna.spilsbury@aceville.co.uk 01206 505932 Sarah Collins sarah.collins@mspublications.co.uk 01206 506255 Jackie Weddell jackie.weddell@mspublications.co.uk 01206 506221 Jo Bluck jo.bluck@aceville.co.uk 01206 506253 Art Director, Phil Dunham Designers Gemma Eales, Cat Morton & Fiona Palmer Ad Production, Angela Scrivener Photography CliQQ Photography, cliqq.co.uk Models Alex, Nathalie, MOT; Colette, Ianthe, Ariana, Rachel, Nevs Fashion stylist, Boo Hill Hair and Make up, Dottie Monaghan Accounts, Denise Bubb 01206 505958 Subscription Enquiries/Back Issues 0330 333 0042

your

SEWING GUIDE

Get to grips with the dressmaking basics!

THE PERFECT FIT

The key to successful fitting is taking accurate body measurements to ensure you get the right size. Pattern sizes aren’t the same as high street clothing sizes, so don’t be tempted to skip this stage. Once you’ve taken your measurements, compare them to those on the pattern envelope or Size It Up panel over the page, then you can make any necessary alterations.

Cut out the tissue paper according to the size closest to the measurements you have selected, choosing the best fit (for dresses, blouses and jackets) in the bust and shoulder, as this area is harder to adjust. If your waist or hip measurements are out of proportion according to the standard pattern size, then simply graduate in or out to reach the relevant waist or hip lines to your size.

l Measure yourself in your underwear, preferably in the bra you will be wearing. l Use a new tape measure as they can distort out of shape over time. l Ask a friend to help you, especially with tricky measurements such as your back-neck to waist and height. l Be honest with your measurements and remember that pattern sizes are totally different to ready-to-wear high street sizing. l Use your measurements to help you adjust the pattern to fit your shape, not forgetting to take the required amount of ease into account.

Website Enquiries webmaster@sewmag.co.uk Newstrade Sales Marketforce 0203 148 3300

TAKING YOUR MEASUREMENTS

Marketing Manager, Andrea Turner Subscriptions Executive Jo Gould sew@servicehelpline.co.uk

HIGH BUST FULL BUST

Published by Aceville Publications Ltd 21-23 Phoenix Court, Hawkins Road, Colchester, Essex CO2 8JY © Aceville Publications Ltd. 2018 Toy safety: please note that toys with small parts are not suitable for children under three years of age. If making a toy for a very young child omit any buttons and embroider the details instead. Babies should be supervised when playing with toys.

All projects from this issue and the FREE online patterns are for personal home use only and cannot be sold or used for commercial purposes.

All patterns that are featured in Sew are reproduced in good faith that they do not infringe any copyright. The publishers are not responsible for any safety issues arising from any items created from projects contained within Sew magazine. While all possible care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of all projects, we are not responsible for printing errors or the way in which individual work varies. Please read instructions carefully before starting construction.

WAIST HIPS

Measure while wearing the usual underwear you will be wearing and hold the tape measure comfortably snug, but avoid pulling tight.

HEIGHT Standing against a flat wall without wearing shoes, measure from the floor to the top of your head.

HIGH BUST Measure directly under the arms, straight across the back and above the bust.

FULL BUST Take the tape measure around the fullest part of your bust and straight across the back.

WAIST Tie a length of narrow elastic around the waist and let it settle naturally at your waistline, then measure over it. Keep the elastic handy for future garments.

HIPS Measure around the body at the fullest part. This is usually 18-23cm below the waist.

86

sewmag.co.uk

Use our pattern to create this pussybow blouse at sewmag.co.uk!

IN ASSOCIATION WITH “This abstract floral chiffon is super lightweight and has a beautiful floaty drape – it’s great for creating a gorgeous blouse for work or an evening out.”

READING A PATTERN

The basic markings you will find on commercial dressmaking patterns are important to familiarise yourself with. These marks indicate various techniques or steps and are best transferred onto your fabric pieces once you’ve cut them.

CAROLINE BOARDWELL REID, CROFT MILL

SIZE it up

Once you have your body measurements, choose the closest size from the chart below. Remember, there will be variations depending on which fabric and pattern you choose, so always make a toile first.

MULTIPLE SIZE CUTTING LINES These lines indicate dress sizes.

Highlighting yours can help with cutting.

BUST/HIP INDICATORS Located at the bust and hip points on the pattern – make any necessary adjustments if yours don’t fall there.

TUCKS AND GATHERS Bring these lines together before stitching.

GRAINLINE Align this mark with the grain of the fabric i.e. parallel to the warp (see below).

LENGTHEN/SHORTEN HERE This is an opportunity to customise the pattern to your preferences.

BUTTON / BUTTONHOLE PLACEMENTS These indicate where buttonholes should be made on a garment.

FOLD LINE This mark indicates that the pattern piece should be positioned along the fold of the fabric, creating a larger ‘mirrored’ piece.

MISCELLANEOUS MARKINGS These come in a range of sizes and are used as points of reference on a pattern to indicate where pieces should be placed.

NOTCHES Match two pieces of fabric together at these points.

For size 8:

Bust - 78cm Waist - 59cm Hip - 83cm Back neck to waist - 36cm

For size 10:

Bust - 83cm Waist - 64cm Hip - 88cm Back neck to waist - 41cm

For size 12:

Bust - 88cm Waist - 69cm Hip - 93cm Back neck to waist - 46cm

For size 14:

Bust - 93cm Waist - 74cm Hip - 98cm Back neck to waist - 51cm

For size 16:

Bust - 98cm Waist - 79cm Hip - 103cm Back neck to waist - 56cm

MAY MARTIN, SEWING PERSONALITY

PLACING YOUR PIECES

With the paper pattern pieces facing up, place them onto the fabric. Some will need to be placed on the fold of the fabric (where it’s folded in half, giving you a mirrored piece), which will be indicated on the individual pattern pieces. Most patterns offer a layout guide for the placement, according to the width of your fabric.

This helps you get the most from your fabric, and avoids wastage.

Pattern pieces that are not indicated to be placed on the fold need to be put on the material with the grainline arrow running parallel to the selvedge. Measure the distance from one end of the arrow to the selvedge, repeat for the other side of the arrow, and move the pattern piece until both measurements are the same.

Getting to grips with your fabric is a fundamental part of sewing. Before you start, familiarise yourself with:

WARP These are the yarns that run the length of the fabric. They are stronger than weft yarns and less likely to stretch.

WEFT These run over and under the warp threads across the fabric from selvedge to selvedge.

BIAS The bias grain runs 45° to the warp and weft of the fabric. Cutting garments on the bias creates a finished piece that will follow the contours of the body.

SELVEDGE The non-fraying, woven edges that run parallel to the warp grain is the selvedge.

WARP

Red Floral Abstract Polyester Chiffon, £5.50 per metre, croftmill.co.uk

SELVEDGES

For size 20:

Bust - 108cm Waist - 89cm Hip - 113cm Back neck to waist - 66cm

UNDERSTAND YOUR FABRIC

S BIA

For size 18:

Bust - 103cm Waist - 84cm Hip - 108cm Back neck to waist - 61cm

“To create a pussybow neckline, start by carefully positioning the tie pieces on the grain to prevent them from twisting. To ensure the seams on the ties stay straight, use a walking foot; it has a set of teeth which work with the feed dog on the base of the machine, gripping layers of fabric and passing them through evenly. To finish, press the ties by either rolling the seams along the edge of the bow between finger and thumb, or by inserting a wooden ruler.”

WEFT FOLD 87

sewmag.co.uk

GIVE THE GIFT OF A SUBSCRIPTION and win a luxury holiday this Christmas!

BUY A GIFT SUBSCRIPTION FROM JUST £19.99 & INSTANTLY BE ENTERED INTO OUR INCREDIBLE COMPETITION!

WIN ME!

WORTH £2,700!

WINNER ANNOUNCED CHRISTMAS EVE 7 night stay at the luxurious Saadiyat Rotana Resort & Villas, Saadiyat Island, Abu Dhabi.

Includes transfers.

£24.99 FOR 6 ISSUES

A gift for them and a gift for you

£19.99 FOR 7 ISSUES

£24.99 FOR 6 ISSUES

£19.99 FOR 7 ISSUES

2 EASY WAYS TO SUBSCRIBE

VISIT ACEVILLE.COM/XMAS18H OR CALL 0330 333 0041 AND QUOTE XMAS18H ­­Lines are open Monday – Friday 9am-5.30pm, Saturdays & Bank Holidays 10am-3pm *Terms and conditions apply, for further details please refer online or ask our customer service team when calling.

WOW! 2 QUICK

Next month in

&

BACK to BASICS

PATTERNS! Sizes 10-22*

* Features subject to change

DRESS FOR SUCCESS

l Choose from bell and bow

sleeves, or go flared with ties

l Stitch in lightweight cottons,

crepes and chambrays

M AK E A STATEMENT WITH SLEEVES

You’ll love our

NOVEMBER ISSUE! l Feeling lucky? Enter our

best-ever bumper giveaways!

CAPSULE CLASSICS

l Stitch a sweater with a

step-by-step photo guide

l Mix ‘n’ match with

these stylish separates l Learn how to make an unlined coat

l Plus, there’s still time to vote

in the British Sewing Awards!

MAKE A NOTE! OUR NOVEMBER ISSUE IS ON SALE 18th OCTOBER 2018 89

sewmag.co.uk

Photographer: Tessa Hallmann

Beautiful embellishments epitomised the flapper dress. £225, pretty eccentric.co.uk

Bring razzle dazzle to any Christmas party. £165, jdwilliams.co.uk

Now this is a statement dress! £150, jdwilliams.co.uk

STYLE STORY

THE FLAPPER DRESS

A LITTLE PARTY NEVER KILLED NOBODY Words by Laura Wybrow

The Roaring Twenties were all about speakeasies, dancing and, most importantly, dressing! The era saw an

artistic boom; jazz music blossomed, Art Deco peaked and flappers redefined social standards for western women.

Although the origin of the word ‘flapper’ is much disputed, in 1907, actor George Graves coined it as theatrical slang for female performers who flapped their arms like a bird when dancing the Charleston. Martin Pel, curator for the Fashion and Textile Museum’s exhibition, 1920s Jazz Age Fashion and Photographs, says: “The dress represents modernity and freedom; freedom of physical movement and freedom from old modes of behaviour.” Flappers were perceived as reckless, independent and the equivalent of modern-day party girls, but it was their outfit choices which got the world talking and fashion houses watching.

The flapper dress as we know it emerged in 1926. It was straight and loose, leaving the arms bare and dropping the waistline to the hips; garters held up silk stockings and the knee-length fringed hemline exposed the legs if there was so much as a breeze! Because of the elaborate embellishing, the flapper dress was at first restricted to wealthy women – but, thanks to the lack of corset and its simple shape, the dress could easily be

whipped up at home for half the price.

Us stitchers would have been donning the glitzy ensemble in no time!

FILM STAR FASHION

The Wall Street crash of 1929 and the ensuing Great Depression, signalled the downfall of the flapper dress and all that it represented. However, the 1920s look is very much back in fashion! In 2013, director Baz Luhrmann created the visually dazzling The Great Gatsby based on F. Scott Fitzgerald’s novel.

The film’s costume designer, Catherine Martin enlisted the help of Miuccia Prada to create the film’s stunning burnt sienna, muted lilac and dusty rose garments, all of which kept in touch with the era’s aesthetic. Other costumes included an organza frock enriched with scale-like sequin embroidery and a radzmir dress with a pearl embroidered bustier – we’re getting flustered just thinking about how long the embellishment would have taken!

the power of pearls! You could also choose silk chiffons or light voiles to drape over a cocktail dress, but make sure you stitch the overlay with a narrow French seam to avoid bulk, and finish it off with a baby hem.

MAKE YOUR OWN If you’re a lover of classic clothing, check out So Vintage for authentic Art Deco patterns.

Here’s a few to tickle your fancy…

1930s Art Deco dress and jacket ensemble pattern, £73

1930s lovely dress pattern, £50

PARTY PERFECT

Upcoming Christmas parties mean glitzy and glamorous dresses are at the top of everyone’s shopping list! The flapper dress is currently having a big revival in the fashion industry thanks to designer labels such as Balmain’s and Calvin Klein’s contemporary spin on the look. When stitching your own version of this gorgeous garment, embellishment is key, so switch on to 90

sewmag.co.uk

1930s Art Deco dress pattern, £58

ALL PATTERNS ARE FROM SOVINTAGEPATTERNS.COM