htfss

W K! E N O LO

Buttonholes made easy Debbie Shore baby project

Quickmake party accessory

ISSUE 26

FESTIVE SPECIAL!

16

CHRISTMAS PROJECTS

Your 6-in-1 pattern

Classic godet skirt Quick-make coasters Easy festive table mats

Learn to sew sequins

In sizes 8-20

The ultimate party dress

ISSUE 26 UK £7.99 www.sewnowmag.co.uk

Personalise your own toy sack!

WELCOME

58

Hello Making the switch to sewing for a new season, I find is always helped by a stash re-organisation and mini audit of my notions and threads – I love bringing my festive prints to the top of the pile, ready for Christmas projects.

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Looking ahead to all those fun meet ups with friends and festive celebrations, this month’s versatile patterns tick lots of boxes. Turn your McCall’s Jersey Dress M7432 (page 10) into a party stunner using pretty fabric that is sure to stand out. You can also add skills to your sewing arsenal using our helpful tutorial on Beautiful buttonholes (page 16), for use on your Simple Sew Babydoll dress (page 20). Just add a sparkly button or two to show off your design!

Home is definitely at the heart of Christmas, and this issue is packed with festive home projects using a range of skills, from free-machine embroidery to appliqué. Turn to page 33 to see our Cosy Christmas collection or sew up some Christmas coasters (page 58) for a spot of simple, but creative patchworking.

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Full of the latest news on patterns, fabrics, tips and tricks, this issue is sure to help your sewing skills grow, to make sure your Christmas is a homemade one.

Happy sewing!

Sam

Editor sam.sterken@practicalpublishing.co.uk

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40

62 Receive a Prym mini steam iron

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when you subscribe

REGULARS

Turn to page 24 for details of how to subscribe!

6 52

NEWS What’s new in sewing

DISCOUNTS AND GIVEAWAYS Sewing goodies and exclusive discounts just for you!

20

61 64 66

28

SEWING WORKSHOPS Learn new skills and make new friends BEHIND THE SEAMS Our handy guide to seam finishes

5 MINUTES WITH… We speak to Josie about her fabulous fabric store, Fabric Godmother

COSY CHRISTMAS Add some festive cheer with these jolly makes for your home

BEAUTIFUL BUTTONHOLES Wendy Gardiner helps you master buttonholes

44

10

STRETCH YOUR STYLE Our top tips for creating your exclusive McCall’s M7432 dress

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33

TUTORIALS

PROJECTS

4

BORN TO SPARKLE Create a stylish cami top and learn how to sew sequins

40

16

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BE MY BABY Whip up the perfect party dress using your exclusive Simple Sew pattern

www.twitter.com/sewnowmag

SLEEPING STROLLER BAG Keep your little one cosy with this fleece-lined sleeping bag

CAMILLE CREPE SKIRT Floaty and flattering, this Simple Sew skirt is a wardrobe staple

54

GLITTERATI CLUTCH BAG Add some sparkle to your outfit with this chic clutch bag

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CONTENTS

MEET THE TEAM:

Editor

54 58

CHRISTMAS COASTERS Dress your table with these classy coasters or give them as a gift

62

FULL OF CHARM BAG Use small pieces of fabric and create this vibrant patchwork bag

INSPIRATION

15

WEAR IT WITH High-street finds to complement your home-sewn garment

Sam

28

Editorial Assistant

Lorna Seamstress

19

CHERRY-PICKED FABRIC Fabric inspiration from some of our favourite suppliers

23

COTTON ON Find the perfect fabric for your exclusive Simple Sew dress

26

4 JUMPERS YOU CAN SEW AT HOME! Layer up with our top pattern and fabric picks for a classic jumper

Jeanette

Photographer

27

PRINTS CHARMING Save 20% on Dashwood Studio fabric at Fabric HQ!

31

MAKE MY PATTERN We chat to Joost De Cock, the creative force behind Freesewing.org

51 57

HOME COMFORTS Save 20% on fabric at Prints and Plains!

GET YOUR FREAK ON We round up some spooky treats to help you celebrate Halloween

Exclusive prizes!

52 Your chance to win lovely sewing goodies including a fabric bundle from The Crafty Mastermind, sewing books and an Advent Calendar from Hemline

Renata SKILL LEVEL GUIDE Beginner Adventurous beginner Intermediate Advanced

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What’s new?

The patterns, events and sewing goodies on our radar this month

Pattern picks Chiltern Trench Coat This classic Chiltern Trench Coat marks the launch of Cashmerette’s outerwear patterns and is a great option for sophisticated autumn/winter layering.

The coat is fully lined and features flattering princess seams, epaulettes and two length options making this a season-spanning pattern that you can adapt accordingly. The pattern comes in sizes 12 - 28, and cup size C - H. The PDF pattern is $20 (approximately £15.26) from www.cashmerette.com

CELEBRATING THE UNDERDOGS

Belgian fabric company Chat Chocolat has launched a new fabric collection with a twist! The All Animals are Equal range will be available from October this year and aims to shine a spotlight on those critters that are underrepresented or not popularised. Expect to find brushed sweat fabric and organic cottons featuring sparrows, foxes, poodles and mackerels against a backdrop of warm autumnal colours. To find out more, visit www.chatchocolat.com

Tilly and the Buttons Pinafore dress

We love the autumnal colours Sophie has chosen for her version of the Pinafore dress that is featured in Tilly and the Buttons Stretch! (Quadrille, £22.50). This pattern is a great option if you want to get to grips with stretch fabrics and is great for all seasons. You can pair with a sweater in winter and T-shirt in the summer. To see more of Sophie’s makes, visit www.sopbac.com

Flower power

Needle threaders are an essential tool for every sewist and we love these flower-top threaders from Cloud Craft. Take your pick from a variety of colours, each priced a 60p. To see more products, visit www. cloudcraft.co.uk 6

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NEWS

In the bag

Readers’ makes £25 WIN A

We love to see what you’ve been working on. Each month’s star maker will receive a voucher from Mark at Girl Charlee

VOUCHER FROM

Linda We’re already planning our Christmas makes here at Sew Now HQ and this zipped make-up bag kit from Crafty Sew and So will certainly instil some festive cheer. The kit includes everything you need for a stylish cotton pouch including easy-to-follow instructions and a pattern template, making this a great gift option that you can whip up in an afternoon. There are three lovely fabrics to choose from and each kit is priced at £14. Find out more at www.craftysewandso.com

STAR MAKE

We love Linda’s version of the Kwik Sew K4206 dress that was an exclusive pattern with issue 22 of Sew Now. This dress looks great made up in floaty fabric such as crepe or rayon challis.

Winter warmers CALENDAR WITH A TWIST

Make the countdown to Christmas all the more memorable with this DIY Advent Calendar kit from Cotton Twist. The kit includes everything you need for an inspiring and fun countdown to the big day; write personal messages on the cards provided or choose the pre-existing text which includes seaonal ideas such as ‘We’re going ice skating today’ or ‘Let’s make some gingerbread men today.’ Once you’ve written your message, enclose it in the mini envelope provided and peg it to the twine. There are two themed kits to choose from – Kitschmas and Northern Lights – each priced at £16.95 from www.cottontwist. co.uk. All Cotton Twist products are suitable for children aged three and up.

If you’re already planning your winter makes, then this new collection of wool mix Herringbone fabric from Fabric Godmother would be a great choice to add to your stash.

There is a variety of colours available including purple, burgundy, black and chocolate, all of which would be a great choice for a cosy winter coat or a chic winter suit. Find out more at www.fabricgodmother.co.uk

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TAKE NOTE Laura Every month, Laura Victoria shares what’s been going on with the #SewMyStyle project I have been looking forward to the September #sewmystyle2018 since the line-up was announced; the soft lines and curved hem of the Fringe pattern from Chalk and Notch are right up my street. What I especially love is that the use of waist ties means that fitting is easy too (and you can avoid zips or buttons entirely if you want to). There are different bodices and sleeves which can be combined to suit your personal style and it also features the everpopular pockets! If you are toying with the idea of a maxi length version, Catherine from Threadsnips has posted an awesome boho hack on the Chalk and Notch blog. This site is awash with styling ideas and hacks so I thoroughly recommend checking it out if you need a bit more inspiration or want to create something a little different.

Laura

Sarah of Like Sew Amazing

Catherine of Threadsnips

I was in that situation where I had so many ideas with this pattern that I couldn’t get started and flirted with the idea of the blouse variation instead of a dress, like the ones from Maddie Made This. Eventually, it was my fabric stash that saved me as I discovered a long-forgotten rayon that had been tucked away for the ‘right’ project. A good drapey rayon lends itself well to the flow of the Fringe dress, and it was particularly forgiving in the hot weather this summer.

Having seen how Sarah from Like Sew Amazing used some gorgeous cotton and Steel rayon, I’m going to have to make another one just to have an excuse to use their beautiful prints.

Next month’s project is something a little different – a choice of Klum House tote bags. I’m looking forward to researching and shopping for that one.

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Keep track of your sewing journey with this newlylaunched sewing journal.

Gorgeous as a gift for a crafty friend or as a pretty and practical treat for yourself, The Sewing Journal is the ultimate ‘sewlution’ to help you record all the important elements of your projects and efficiently plan your future makes. Inside you’ll find space to record information about the pattern, any amendments you made, as well as sections for fabric swatches and photos of your make. To find out more, visit www.thesewingjournal.com

Shine on

Add some sparkle to your festive makes with these metallic threads from Gütermann. Perfect for embellishing home and fashion accessories, glamorous eveningwear and decorations, or even as a stocking filler.

Each pack is £11.05, for stockist information, email Gütermann@ stockistenquiries.co.uk

NEWS SHOP OF THE MONTH

Sew Over It

Sew Over It is a brand synonymous with flattering patterns, pretty fabric and inspirational sewing classes, we find out more from the founder, Lisa Comfort.

Hi Lisa! How are you and what are you up to?

Hello, I’m very well thanks! I spend most of my week in our office in Hackney knuckling down with emails and planning, but my favourite days are the ones spent in our shop, and excitingly today’s one of those days. I love keeping in touch with our customers, Later I’ll be gathering fabric and patterns

ON SALE NOW!

for our online orders, then I plan to change all the outfits on our mannequins. I rotate them with my own wardrobe of Sew Over It garments so our customers can see something different every time they come in. Ooh and I’ll be watering all our shop plants as there are lots!

Since then we’ve moved to a beautiful new space in Islington, north London, and have hired an expert team of dressmaking teachers, so I don’t have to do everything anymore.

Tell us a bit about how you came to own your own shop I opened the first Sew Over It shop in 2011 after realising that not many people my age and younger knew how to sew. I was taught by my childminder and I loved making my own clothes growing up. I wanted to be able to share that skill. Our first shop had a shop space on the ground floor with a classroom downstairs, and when it first opened I was running the whole show. It was crazy but I loved running my own business.

Which sewing machine would you recommend for a beginner, or an experienced sewist?

We use Janome CXL301 machines in our classes, which are great for beginners and advanced sewists alike. They are digital, making them nice and smooth to use, and have a very handy speed setting which I love!

When sewing straight seams, I use mine on full speed, but if I’m stitching a tight curve I’ll turn it down to the slowest setting to give myself lots more control.

Lisa

IN OUR GOOD BOOKS

Diary in Stitches

by Minki Kim Transform everyday items with this inspirational project book from artist, Minki Kim. Diary in Stitches (C&T, approximately £19.57) presents 65 charming motifs which can be used to embellish your makes using embroidery and appliqué. There are six projects for you to try including a sewing machine cover, wall hanging and simple zipper pouch. To see more titles published by C&T visit www.ctpub.com

Sew Cuddly by Judy Gauthier As the colder months creep in, sewing warm and cosy garments and accessories is a ON SALE must. Sew Cuddly NOW!

by Judy Gauthier (C&T, approximately £16.54) presents 12 beginner-friendly projects to help you work effectively with plush and faux-fur fabrics. Create a fashionable hat, a clutch purse or even a sleeping bag and learn some key techniques along the way including appliqué, binding, and how to insert a zipper. To find out more, visit www.ctpub.com

Is there anything new or exciting coming up that you’d like to tell our readers about?

We’ve got lots of classes planned for the rest of the year, including a new one where you can learn to make a gorgeous mac, the Anna Coat, which has epaulettes and beautiful lapels! We’re also working on lots of new patterns and a new online class which is due out in November. It’s all a secret at the moment but watch this space.

Sew Over It 319 Essex Road, London, N1 2BD 0207 354 4120 info@sewoverit.co.uk www.sewoverit.co.uk

ON SALE NOW!

Stitched Memories

by Tilly Rose Give pre-loved items a new lease of life with this new book, Stitched Memories from Tilly Rose (Search Press, £12.99). Inspired by her love of vintage, Rose presents 15 stunning projects which incorporate a plethora of everyday items to create beautifully detailed and practical makes. Create a family memories journal or a patchwork book wrap, whatever your skill level you are bound to find something that will inspire you to put fabric scraps, threads, buttons and more to good use.

To find more about this title and others, visit www.searchpress.com

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YOUR

FAB PATTERN

VIEW C

STRETCH YOUR

STYLE This dress pattern will stand up to every season and is equally stylish enough for a Christmas party!

Don’t forget you can always add length to your pattern by extending it with baking paper

Photography RENATA STONYTE Model SIMONE for NEMISIS Hair and make-up NINA ROCHFORD for CREATIVES

Get the look

Red on White Floral Scuba Knit fabric With a definite nod to Christmas, this soft scuba fabric will bounce back into shape after a night on the dance floor! £14.99 per metre

www.minervacrafts.com

Simone is 5’ 9” and a size 12

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Sara Red Fringe High Sandal £109.00, www.houseoffraser.co.uk

STYLE STYLE

Fit & FINISH

Getting a professional fit and finish on your garment is something that comes with practice and confidence – these elements will make sure it’s something you love to wear and will last for years!

Just follow our helpful tips

DOUBLE DATE

Get the ultimate finish using a twin needle, which is great for finishing hems and necklines.

Normally done by a cover stitch machine, twin stitching is easy to do and the needles come in the same sizes regular needles do. The width measurement is the gap between the needles.

For an easy to follow step-by-step tutorial on how to thread up your machine using a twin needle, go to www.sewessential.co.uk/ blog/sewing-twin-needle

STAY WITH ME

Stay stitching is an important part of any project but particularly when using jersey, which has a natural stretch. Use this technique to reinforce the ‘V’ of the neckline and, for the scoop neck, stay-stitch along the front neckline from front to back.

Shorten

Lengthen

Make sure you stitch through the large circle on your patten

Quick fix elastic tape

An easy way to speed up your make is to use foldover elastic (FOE) or elastic ribbon on your neckline.

Made with a distinct fold down the centre, double and pin so your fabric is sandwiched in between, then sew carefully along the tape edge, sewing through all three layers.

Red/Gold Large Metallic Chevron Fold Over Elastic 15mm wide

0.90 per metre

www.creativecraft supplies.co.uk

THE LONG AND SHORT OF IT When lengthening or shortening a dress, consider what other design details this will affect. A dress with darts in either the bodice or skirt will take more effort as each dart is calculated to fit to your size. Your M7432 simple bodice and skirt makes this easy to complete!

Simply cut along the lengthen/shorten lines and overlap to shorten, or spread the two pattern pieces to lengthen. Remember to use the finished garment measurements to help guide you.

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For work meetings

Navy Midnight Rosette Scuba fabric ÂŁ16.99 per metre

www.remnantkings.co.uk

For weekend nights

Gold Geometric Jersey fabric ÂŁ10.99 per metre

www.remnantkings.co.uk

Choose wintery tones and wear with tights and boots

VIEW E

INSPIRATION

Wear it with...

Complement your free pattern with finds from some of our favourite high-street stores

Hat, £45 Bag, £38 Coat, £69

Coat, £279

DOROTHY PERKINS www.dorothyperkins.com

Bag, £149

HOBBS www.hobbs.co.uk

Shoes, £30 Beret, £10

Shoes, £189

Coat, £140 Turban, £15

Earrings, £38 Scarf, £25

OLIVER BONAS www.oliverbonas.com

MONSOON uk.monsoon.co.uk

Shoes, £25 Bag, £25

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Beautiful

Wendy

Follow Wendy’s simple steps that make sure you achieve perfect results every time

T

he buttonhole strikes fear into the heart of many sewists. With my handy tips you shouldn’t be screaming at your sewing machine but instead will achieve beautifully made buttonholes.

MACHINE BUTTONHOLES Stabilising It is essential to stabilise the buttonhole area to prevent stretchy or baggy buttonholes. With the correct stabiliser, buttonholes can be successfully stitched in any fabric, from lightweight sheers to heavyweight or stretch knits. The aim is to prevent the concentrated stitching of the buttonhole puckering the fabric if it is lightweight, or stretching it out of shape if it is a knit fabric. Most areas that require buttonholes are already interfaced, but if not, add a small square of tear-away stabiliser behind the area to be stitched to provide the stability needed.

1

Needle and thread As the buttonhole is made of dense close stitching, penetrating at least three or more layers of fabric, you need a good sharp needle that can pierce through the layers easily.

A new 80/12 is ideal for most woven fabric. But do remember to use a ballpoint/

2

A beautifully stitched buttonhole can make a garment look so much more professional Vogue pattern 8333

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stretch needle for stretchy fabric and a universal sharps for wovens.

Use the same general-purpose thread in both bobbin and as top thread for most garments. If sewing a heavyweight coat however, you can opt for special-purpose buttonhole thread that will create a very strong buttonhole. Once stitched, feed thread tails back through stitching before cutting off.

Position and size Transfer the buttonhole position from the paper pattern to the fabric. If creating your own positioning, ensure that the start and end will be no closer than 15mm from the fabric edge.

3

You don’t have to determine the size of the buttonhole required if your machine has the automatic buttonhole foot – usually a long white foot with two protruding lugs on the left side. Open out the recess and pop the button in place, then push to hold the button firmly. This sets the size for the buttonhole needed.

If your machine doesn’t have this foot, you can stitch a buttonhole with a tight satin stitch but will need to mark the length on the fabric. To determine buttonhole size measure across the button and add 3mm. Note: unusually shaped or domed buttonholes may require larger buttonholes. Test the size on a scrap of fabric to save heartache.

•• M ark buttonhole placement with chalk lines or basting stitches. For horizontal buttons, draw two parallel lines the buttonhole size apart down the length to be buttoned. For vertical buttons, draw a vertical line from top to bottom of buttonhole placement and then mark buttonhole size with tiny horizontal lines.

I use a different colour to mark the top and bottom of each buttonhole.

•• On average, buttons should be placed approximately 2-3” (5-8 cm) apart on garments and 4-5” (10-13cm) on soft furnishings. On lightweight fabric, position them slightly closer.

•• To open the buttonhole, place a pin at one end, close to inner edge of bar tack and, starting from other end, then push the seam ripper towards then pin, between side stitching.

BOUND BUTTONHOLES Often found on tailored garments, coats or jackets, a bound buttonhole has flaps or lips each side of the opening. They can be fiddly to complete and are best avoided on fabric that frays easily.

1

To make a bound buttonhole, first cut a rectangle of fabric 5cm longer than the buttonhole. Fold it in half to create a crease through the centre. Then centre it over the buttonhole position on the RS of the garment and baste around the edge.

2

Mark buttonhole line along the centre crease, then mark a rectangle about 3mm away from the line all the way around.

3

Starting in the middle of the top line, machine-stitch the rectangle,

TECHNIQUE counting the number of stitches taken on the short ends to ensure both are the same.

4

Using sharp embroidery scissors, snip into the buttonhole line in the centre and then cut along the line and diagonally towards the corners of the rectangle, taking care not to cut the stitching.

McCall’s M7084 Misses Shirtdress and belt Sizes 6-14, 14-22 £9.75, www.sewdirect.com

Always test buttonholes on fabric scraps, with the same fabric layers and interfacing, prior to stitching on the garment

5

Push the patch through buttonhole, rolling the seam so it is on the very edge of the buttonhole. Press (you now have a rectangular hole).

6

Form the buttonhole lips by folding the long edges over the opening with folded edges meeting at the centre of the buttonhole. Check lips are neat and even from the RS and then baste to hold in place.

7

Working from the RS of garment, fold garment back along the side of the buttonhole to expose the ends of the patch. Stitch across the patch, through all layers, close to the garment fold. Repeat at the other end of the buttonhole.

8

Do the same at top and bottom of buttonhole – fold garment back to expose patch and stitch inside original stitching line. Open out garment and press with press cloth.

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Fabric Patterns Workshops We are suppliers of low cost, high quality materials sourced from all over the world. Competitive prices with fantastic customer service. No minimum order.

www.leicestershirecraftcentre.co.uk

Free UK delivery with code

LSEW59

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Tel: 02476 687776 www.online-fabrics.co.uk

INSPIRATION

Cherry-picked Stock up on lovely new fabric with these invaluable recommendations from some of our favourite fabric suppliers BOB BOB BOBBIN

Kaz

Bob Bob Bobbin is an independent online fabric shop offering a range of beautiful dressmaking and craft fabrics, all available from stock. Fabric collections include linens, novelty and children’s, jerseys, home décor, cottons and fabric bundles. www.bobbobbobbin.co.uk

CRAFTY SEW & SO

Sarah & Freya

Crafty Sew & So is an independent fabric shop with a bricks and mortar store in Leicester city centre and has a beautiful webshop. It offers modern haberdashery, tools to make any job easier and beautiful premium quality dressmaking fabrics. www.craftysewandso.com

Teal canvas Always a bestseller, this fine 100% cotton canvas is popular with both dressmakers and crafters alike. Also available in a range of other colours. £7.95 per metre

Paisley Brocade This beautiful brocade features stunning flame colours and would work particularly well in a structured or pleated gown design. £12 per metre

Pearl Peach Dress fabric A contemporary design with a beautiful softness and drape. Ideal for tops, tunics and dresses. £8.90 per metre

Mandala circles lace We love the modern design of this stunning lace, which is perfect for layering over sumptuous satin for a showstopping look! £7 per metre

Floral Looped Back Jersey fabric This French Terry fabric is lighter and softer than traditional sweatshirt fabric and works well for a variety of garments including dresses, tunics and tops. £12.60 per metre

Forget-me-not viscose twill Viscose twill has a great drape and is a good weight for bottoms and dresses.

This delicate botanical illustration print is right on-trend. £16 per metre

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YOUR

FAB PATTERN

Be my

BABY

Get ready for the party season by adding heaps of sparkle and shine to your Simple Sew Babydoll dress Photography RENATA STONYTE Model SIMONE for NEMISIS Hair and make-up NINA ROCHFORD for CREATIVES

Get the look

Emele jeweled clasp satin box clutch £45.00, www.houseoffraser.co.uk

Turquoise triple polyester crepe dress weight fabric

A medium-weight crepe with a beautiful drape and swing, which has the bonus of being non-crease! £12 per metre

www.bobbinsnbuttons.co.uk

Simone is 5’ 9” and a size 12

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Clarra Dorsay high open court shoes £50, www.houseoffraser.co.uk

SWING

TIME!

Take this easy dress style to new heights with our hacks and tricks

Versatile style

Choose ditsy floral cotton for a more understated style and add pretty wooden buttons to bring out the autumnal tones.

Bling buttons

Make the back of your dress stand out with a bling button, or two! Opt for diamanté, gold, silver or even crystal embellishments to enhance your fabric. Make a statement by opting for sizes of 1.5cm in diameter or larger.

Crystal Golden 3015 Shadow button 16mm diameter £1.41 per button www.crystalparade.co.uk

All change

Blue Diamanté Button 15mm diameter £0.24 per button www.abakhan.co.uk

Reminiscent of 60s style, add a Peter Pan collar to your neckline to make it work-worthy. It’s a great way to learn pattern drafting and easy enough that you’ll gain confidence in no time.

Try either a rounded or pointed collar using Sew It With Love’s step-bystep tutorial, at www. sewitwithlove.com/ draft-peter-pan-collar

Atelier Brunette Garance Cotton Lawn dress fabric £15.99 per metre www.minervacrafts.com

Luxe looks

Satin, viscose, lawn and cotton all have a suitable drape to give your dress a swing. Rich jewel tones are always perfect for Christmas and add a touch of luxury to what is a super-easy style to sew.

Ruby and Emerald ikat satin A polyester and elastane blend satin which is super soft, silky and shiny! Ideal for when you need that little bit of give. £7 per metre www.fabworks.co.uk

Plum Rio crepe backed satin A gorgeous plum dress fabric with a satin finish on one side and a crêpe finish on the other, providing maximum versatility for your dressmaking projects. £4.50 per half metre www.fabricgodmother.co.uk

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COTTON ON We select our favourite cotton prints suited to your exclusive Simple Sew pattern

Abstract floral canvas £18.40 per metre, www.misformake.co.uk

Petal Path by Michael Miller cotton £10 per metre, www.sewscrumptious.co.uk

White Cloud9 Threads Woodland Weaves double gauze £16 per metre, www.bobbinsnbuttons.co.uk

Black Sun, Moon, Stars cotton £15 per metre, www.clothandcandy.co.uk

Navy Metcombe Whitehaven

by Feena Brooks cotton £16 per metre, www.thecraftymastermind.co.uk

Sparkling chambray fabric £12.50 per metre, www.empressmills.co.uk

Plain Green Glitter cotton £7.99 per metre, www.remnantkings.co.uk

Terracotta Bye Bye Birdie cotton £16 per metre, www.fabricgodmother.co.uk

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JUMPERS you can sew at home!

Building a handmade wardrobe doesn’t have to exclude sweaters and cardigans. In this issue we’re sharing patterns and fabrics for four classic styles MODERN SWEATSHIRT The Papercut Patterns Bowline sweater is both comfy and effortlessly cool with its eyecatching draped front.

There are easy-to-fit raglan sleeves and self bands and cuffs.

Available in sizes XXS – XL, for £18.50 at www. guthrie-ghani.co.uk

Pick a bold geo to showcase the design lines of this sweater, so we recommend this soft French Terry in soft tonal blues and greys.

Geo Blue – Organic French Terry £8.25 per half metre www.harveyjacobs.co.uk

BALLET WRAPS Butterick 6285 is from Gertie’s line for the pattern house featuring a classic wrap cardigan.

There is also a flared skirt pattern in the pack to make an instant outfit! The wrap is self-lined and comes with long and short sleeve options.

Find it in sizes 6-22 for £9.50 at www.sewdirect.co.uk

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Beautifully rich autumnal tones sing from this floral jersey.

Smart enough for work and easy to wear with jeans at the weekend, this style is a truly versatile make.

Navy Paradise Birds cotton jersey £7.50 per half metre www.fabricgodmother.co.uk

CLASSIC CARDIGAN

Found inside the Butterick 6319 pattern pack, this close-fitting buttondown cardigan has neckline and front bands, and topstitched hems. We love the princess seam dress also included, as the perfect partner. Available in sizes 8-24 for £9.50 from www.sewdirect.co.uk Try something new and sew this cute cardigan in a sweater knit. Straying away from safe, this bold pattern also comes in orange and aqua.

Pink Mexicana Jacquard knitted fabric £5.99 per metre www.abakhan.co.uk

RETRO TURTLENECK

The batwing dress and jumper from Simple Sew is proving that this silhouette doesn’t go out of style. Designed with a single main body piece for sizes 8-20, this pattern can be whipped up in a short afternoon. Pick up the paper pattern for £11 (or £7 for a PDF download) at www.simplesewpatterns.com Slightly heavier than jersey, ponte is great for garments that need to keep their shape. This faux cable knit fabric will provide a structured turtle neck and well as bright pop of colour on a cold winter day.

Pink cable-knit ponte fabric £11.99 per metre www.remnantkings.co.uk

Prints

charming Grey Dashwood Studio butterfly needlecord, £18 per metre

Purple Dashwood Studio pomegranate needlecord, £18 per metre

Brown Dashwood Studio flowers needlecord, £18 per metre

Teal Dashwood Studio flowers needlecord, £18 per metre

Cool for Cats – House Cats cotton, £13.20 per metre

Cool for Cats – Playful Cats cotton, £13.20 per metre

www.sosandar.com

Boost your fabric stash with these fun and vibrant prints from Fabric HQ!

SAVE 20% on Dashwood Studio fabric at Fabric HQ with the code SEWNOW20.

Visit www.fabrichq.co.uk and enter the code at checkout between 11th October and 15th November to save. Fabric HQ is a veritable treasure trove of crafting goodies stocking an extensive array of fabrics, haberdashery and patterns, it also runs regular workshops.

Snow Forest – Forest cotton, £13.20 per metre

Pink Dovestone – Hares cotton, £13.20 per metre

All fabric available at www.fabrichq.co.uk

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Born to

SPARKLE Simple and stylish, this cami top is great for learning to sew sequins Project LAUREN ELBERT

Lauren

Use your template download

STYLE SKILL LEVEL: MATERIALS: •• 1¼ yards fabric •• 2¼ yards ¾"-wide single-fold bias tape, ideally handmade to match your cami •• loop turner •• co-ordinating thread •• templates downloaded from www.sewnowmag.co.uk FABRIC SUGGESTIONS: This cami can be made from a variety of woven fabric, from lightweight silk chiffon to more stable cotton. If you are making a stripe or plaid cami, you will need an extra 1/2 to 1 yard of fabric CUTTING:

your seam allowance (not on the stitch line). Note: if using sequins skip this step.

2

11

3 4 5

12

With Front and Back pieces WST, sew the side seams using a 3/8” seam allowance.

Trim down the seam allowance to 1/8”.

Turn the cami inside out and press the side seams flat.

Sew 1/4” from the side seam edge, encasing the seam allowance and making a beautiful French seam.

6

Take 3/4 yard of your bias tape – it should be unfolded. Fold the bias tape in half lengthwise, RST.

7

Sew along the length of the folded bias strip, about 1/8” to 1/4” from the folded edge (make sure your tapestry needle can fit through the hole).

8 9

Trim down your seam allowance to be the same width as your seam.

HOW TO MAKE: Start off by stay-stitching the neckline and armholes just inside the seam allowance on Front and Back pieces.

Stay-stitching prevents curves from stretching out, and should be sewn within

1

A

steam setting on your iron to set. DO NOT press with iron, leave overnight if needed.

Insert your tapestry needle into your tube and pull it RS out. The seam allowance acts as a filler for your strap, making it rounded. (See Pic A.)

10

Pull the tube taut on your ironing board by using two pins and use the

Start by unfolding your bias tape and pinning it to the face of the garment around the neckline. Make sure the folded edge of the bias is on the stitching line. Let the bias end at the edge of the neckline.

Also attach bias at the back neckline, which is only a few inches wide. (See Pic B.) Stitch along the bias fold line (closest to the edge) around the neckline.

Trim seam allowance down to 1/8”.

13

Fold the other bias edge over, so it covers the seam allowance. Press flat and pin in place.

14

On the face side, stitch in the ditch along the bias seam catching the folded bias edge below. Make sure the bias ends are flush with the garment. (Stitching in the ditch is merely sewing on a seam line to make the new stitches less obvious.)

15

Start by unfolding the bias tape and pinning it to the face of the garment around the armholes. Make sure the folded edge of the bias is on the stitching line. Let the bias end at the edge of the armholes.

16

Stitch along the bias fold line (closest to the edge) around the armholes.

Trim seam allowance down to 1/8”.

XS

S

M

L

XL

Bust

33-34”

35-36”

37-38"

391⁄2-41"

43-45"

Waist

25-26”

27-28”

29-30"

311⁄2-33”

35-37"

Hips

35-36"

37-38"

39-40"

411⁄2-43

45-47

B

C

D

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Top tips...

for sewing sequins

Cut out your pattern using old scissors as sequins can easily damage the blades

E

Consider cutting linings from your pattern pieces if the reverse of your sequins are rough

17

Fold over the other bias edge, so it covers the seam allowance. Press flat and pin in place.

18

On the face side, stitch in the ditch along the bias seam, catching the folded bias edge below. Make sure the bias ends are flush with the garment.

19 20

23

21

24

22

25

Grab your bias tube and cut two straps.

On the WS of the cami, fold down the triangular points at each edge of the neckline by 1/2”. Pin a strap end in the middle, and stitch down. (See Pic C.) Press the entire bias neckline and armhole edge over to the WS of your cami.

Make small securing stitches every 2-3” along the folded bias edge to keep it from rolling to the face side.

30

(See Pic D.) With your needle you should only have to bite one or two fabric threads on the face side and then use a simple knot to tie off. Make your stitches as small as you can to make them invisible. Start with the armhole edge and do not secure down the back neckline edge.

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Pin the other end of the strap to the back neckline and adjust length as needed. Stitch down.

Press the back bias neckline edge over and using securing stitches, tack down.

Press your hem up 1/4”, then again another 3/8” and pin. Edge-stitch along the folded hem edge to secure.

(See Pic E.)

Check how your sequins have been sewn onto the fabric. Some are sewn on in rows and can easily unravel. If this happens at the seams they’ll need hand stitching into place Look for the nap – the direction in which the sequins lie – and follow this when laying out your pattern Use weights to hold the pieces in place

To sew seams, remove some of the sequins for easier stitching and try a zipper foot rather than a regular foot Always iron sequined fabric using a cool iron and a pressing cloth to prevent the sequins from melting

MAKE MY PATTERN

INTERVIEW

We chatted to Joost De Cock, prolific sewist and creative force behind Freesewing.org, the on-demand design service and sewing community that offers custom tailored patterns free of charge!

Free pattern: Homeboy Hoodie

Joost

Can you tell our readers a bit more about Freesewing and what inspired you to start the site?

As I am tall, standard sizes and envelope patterns don’t fit me well, not without needing serious alterations. Drafting your own patterns is a better option, but I found it to be cumbersome and slow. I’m also kind of lazy, so I wanted to automate the pattern drafting and let a computer do it for me. Can you blame me? I created the first version just to see if I could do it, more than anything else. It worked, and some people showed an interest.

So I rewrote it twice, based on what I had learned. Spoiler alert: I’m currently rewriting the site again, and I am pretty stoked about it!

Enter your measurements, pick a pattern and it gets drafted for you. Some people think that I’m using some sort of scaling to adapt a pre-existing pattern to your size. But no, the website actually does the exact same thing what you would do at home if you drafted your own pattern.

What’s been the most popular pattern available on your site?

By the numbers, my boxer briefs pattern is the most popular so there’s a bunch of men out there wearing underwear of my design!. Although my classic and slimline trousers patterns are essentially two variations on the same theme, and come a close second.

How old were you when you first began sewing and what pushed you to start?

I first sat down behind a sewing machine in my teenage years. But I really fell in love with sewing when I caught mononucleosis (glandular fever) in the autumn of 2010, and was sick at home for several weeks. I decided that I would try to make trousers.

I had never made anything that complex before, and boy did I struggle with the fly. But I also loved it. After I finished the trousers, I swore that from now on, I would make all my own clothes.

What’s currently on your sewing table?

Fingers crossed there are more amazing shoes on the way!

I have actually been thinking about making another pair of shoes, but I’m out of some of the supplies which are harder to come by than fabric. Apart from that, I have bought a bunch of shirting fabric recently, so I should really get around to making some shirts.

How would you describe your style?

I tend to stick to the wardrobe staples of menswear. Prints are a rarity. A certain style is not something I consciously strive for, though I have made a skirt, meshed T-shirts, meggings (leggings for men)

and other more edgy stuff because I’m allergic to boring!

Go on; spill the beans on your favourite sewing sustenance. What’s your creative ritual?

I eat cookies. All... the... time. No chocolate or anything that can stain, but just dry rich tea biscuits. It is rather embarrassing at what an alarming rate I shovel them into my mouth. But it keeps me focused somehow.

Joost De Cock is the creative behind https://freesewing.org, which has just celebrated it’s first year of inspiring sewists. Don’t forget to say hello on Twitter @j__st and on Instagram @joostdecock

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EXCLUSIVE READER OFFER! w

SAVE

20%

Kwik Sew 4215

on Kwik sew patterns

We’ve teamed up with the fantastic team at The McCall Pattern Company to offer Sew Now readers an exclusive 20% discount on all Kwik Sew patterns. Sew yourself a fashionable coat for winter or try the new 4215 dress pattern for a glamorous party dress (right). Whatever your sewing ability, there’s an extensive range of patterns available to suit your skills and style, at www.sewdirect.com To take advantage of this incredible offer, simply quote the code SN26 when calling 0344 880 1263 between 11th October and 1st November 2018. Offer not available online, P&P charges still apply.

SAVE 20%

WITH OUR EXCLUSIVE DISCOUNT! 32

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co Chr lle istm ct as io n Use your template download

Cosy

Christmas

Add a dash of festive cheer to your home this Christmas with these gorgeous projects!

Project DEBBIE VON GRABLER-CROZIER www.sallyandcraftyvamp.blogspot.co.uk

Debbie

co Chr lle istm ct as io n

Holly leaf

table mats Perfect for elevenses or the dinner table, these mats are great for trying out free-machine embroidery

ACCESSORIES Go over the free-motion embroidery twice to emphasise certain places and do not aim to be too neat!

A

B

C

D

SKILL LEVEL: MATERIALS: •• 3 fat quarters of green blender fabric •• 40cm strip backing fabric •• red linen scraps •• 40cm strip Vlieseline H630 fusible wadding •• manual die-cutting machine •• circle die •• glue stick •• green & red thread •• water-erasable marker •• templates downloaded from www.sewnowmag.co.uk NOTES: Seam allowance for all projects is 0.5cm unless otherwise stated HOW TO MAKE: Cut a selection of holly berries from the red linen scraps using the die. As an alternative to a die-cutting machine, find items around the home of differing sizes to draw around.

1

2

Cut out the templates and trace around them. From the green fabric, cut the following: 20cm x 25cm long (small mat/coaster) 30cm wide x 38cm long (large mat) 25cm wide x 35cm long (medium mat)

4

Use the glue stick to glue red holly berries onto each mat, keeping them away from the edges. (See Pic A.)

5

Set up your machine for free-motion embroidery and use red thread to embroider the holly berries. (See Pic B.)

6

Cut out the leaf and lay it right sides together onto the backing fabric. Trim a little, but leave something to hold onto.

(See Pic C.)

7

Sew the perimeter of the mat, leaving a turning gap. Trim the backing and then clip the points and curves. Turn out through the gap and press so that the edges are perfect. Free-motion embroider again using the green thread this time and sew the veins using the lines on the template as a guide. (See Pic D.)

Why not make a set of coasters for a friend using the small holly leaf template

3

Interface the wrong side of each fabric with H630. Draw around the template onto the interfaced green fabric with water-erasable marker.

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co Chr lle istm ct as io n

Festive bow

card hanger

36

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ACCESSORIES

A

B

C

D

E

F

Display your cards in style with our simple-to-sew bow card hanger!

SKILL LEVEL: MATERIALS: •• 110cm red & gold striped Christmas fabric •• fat quarter Vlieseline H630 fusible wadding •• large metal ring •• small wooden pegs NOTES: Seam allowance for all projects is 0.5cm unless otherwise stated HOW TO MAKE: Begin by cutting four 18cm wide x 110cm long pieces for the ‘tails’.

1 2

Sew two of them to make one 220cm-long piece. Repeat for the other two. Pin these right sides together with the join in the middle.

3

Sew them together around the perimeter and measure 20cm from

the bottom on the outer left and the outer right and make a mark. Draw a line from this mark to the bottom opposite corner. (See Pic A.)

Choosing fabric with a hint of metallic immediately says 'Christmas'

4

Cut along this line and repeat for the other end. When the tails are sewn this will give you the point on the bottom of the bow. Sew the ends closed. (See Pic B.)

5

Clip across the corners and tip points.

Turn out through the gap and press.

Close the gap and the tail is ready to use.

(See Pic C.)

6

Make the top of the bow with two pieces of fabric 24cm wide x 45cm long. Fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of each piece. Place them right sides together and sew the perimeter, leaving a turning gap. Clip across the corners and turn out through the gap and close it.

Press the bow.

7

The centre of the bow is one piece of fabric 17cm wide x 20cm long.

Fold this lengthways and sew the centre seam. Flatten it out so that the centre seam is in the middle and sew the end.

Clip across the corners and turn the right way out through the open end.

(See pics D and E.)

Lorna

8

Softly gather the bow with your fingers and place the long tails behind it. Wrap the centre part around everything (this will keep it all together) so that the raw edge of the centre is under the finished one. Note that this is a little longer than you need and you can trim from the raw end to make it perfect.

It needs to be firm.

9

Finish with a neat hand stitch on the back and sew the hanging ring on the back too. (See Pic F.) W WW.S EWNOWMAG.CO.U K

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co Chr lle istm ct as io n

Christmas

toy sack This festive toy sack will look cool next to any hearth!

SKILL LEVEL: MATERIALS: •• 60cm red, white & turquoise Christmas fabric •• 110cm x 55cm red solid with metallic thread •• 51cm x 23cm white solid with metallic thread •• 75cm H630 fusible wadding •• 1m light blue Prym mini pompom trim

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•• fabric glue •• Sizzix Sassy Serif Large letter dies #654729, #654730, #654720 & #654727 •• manual die-cutting machine

From the White Glimmer cut: 1 21cm x 51cm for the centre panel From the patterned cut: 2 51cm x 63cm for the lining The letters to spell the word ‘Noel’

CUTTING: From the Red Glimmer cut: 1 51cm x 63cm for the back panel 2 23cm x 51cm for the front top and bottom panels

NOTES: Seam allowance for all projects is 0.5cm unless otherwise stated.

ACCESSORIES

We used

A

B

Green Tea, Moss and Pistachio Nature Elements collection by Art Gallery Fabrics

C

HOW TO MAKE: For the front take two red panels and sew the white one into the centre.

Press the seams open. Press and fuse a piece of H630 the same size as the whole panel to the wrong side.

1

2

Find the centre of the white panel and glue the word 'Noel' onto it (See Pic A.)

3

Set your machine up for free-motion embroidery and embroider the letters on with white thread. Snip the loose threads away (See Pic B.)

D

5

For the back fuse a piece of H630 to the back and trim. With the RST, attach the back to the front sewing around the sides and base and leaving no gaps. Clip across the corners to remove bulk there (See Pic C.)

8

Stuff the lining down into the sack and make the corners nice and sharp. A wooden chopstick works well for this job.

9

Press the top edge and take the pompom trim and attach it to the top.

This is best done with the sack inside out so that the trim is hanging down from the edge of the lining. Then when the top is folded over, it will be the right way up.

To finish fold the top edge over by about 5cm (See Pic D.)

Gathered Collection

by Bonnie Christine for Art Gallery Fabrics

Aerial Clay

Noel Gift Geometry

Gathered collection by Bonnie Christine for AGF

Garnet

Change the lettering to initials or a little one's name for a thoughtful gift

6

Take the two pieces of lining fabric and with the RST, sew the sides and back leaving a turning gap in the base.

Glimmer Solids Garnet by Cloud 9

Noel collection

by Swaying lily for Cloud 9

Frost

Glimmer Solids Frost

by Cloud 9

For details and stockist information visit www.hantex.co.uk/find-a-stockist.html

All Wrapped Up Christmas Metallic Stripe cotton

7

With the outer the right way out and the lining inside out and slide the lining on over the outer so that the RST. Line up the side seams and sew around

Verdure Field

The Denim Studios

by Art Gallery Fabrics

the top leaving no gaps. Turn out through the gap in the lining and close the gap.

4

Go over some areas twice to emphasise them and don’t be too neat, use the needle as if you are drawing with a pencil.

Cherry Crimson

City Sounds

Raise The Volume Capsule collection

by Art Gallery Fabrics

ÂŁ11.99 per metre

www.remnanthousefabric.co.uk

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Stroller

SLEEPING BAG Keep little ones cosy and warm in this fleece-lined sleeping bag with belt holes to keep baby safe!

Project DEBBIE SHORE

Debbie

KIDS

A

B

C

D

E

F

G

H

I

SKILL LEVEL:

out to the right-hand edge through the top layer of fabric only. You will now have a large ‘L’ shape of fabric. Repeat for the lining fabric. (See Pic B.)

MATERIALS: •• 102x96.5cm outer fleece •• 102x96.5cm lining fleece •• 112x96.5cm wadding •• 51x84cm scrap fabric or paper for template •• 76.25cm zip •• repositionable spray adhesive

3

FINISHED SIZE: 53.5x91.5cm

4

NOTES: Seam allowance for all projects is ¼” unless otherwise stated. The measurements below should fit a baby up to approximately one year; for a toddler add 20.5cm to the length HOW TO MAKE: Push the piece of scrap fabric or paper into the back of the stroller and mark the position of the seatbelt straps. (See Pic A.)

Transfer the seatbelt markings from your template to the centre back of the lining fleece, starting with the shoulder straps, 30.5cm from the top. (See Pic C.) Attach the outer fleece WST with the wadding with a little repositionable spray adhesive, then trim the wadding to shape. Fold the top part of the fleece in half with RST and sew to form a hood. Fold the top part of the blanket lining in half RST and sew in the same way to form a hood. Then sew the zip to the open side of the outer sleeping bag.

(See Pic D.)

1

5

2

6

Fold the outer piece of fabric in half widthways. At the centre fold, cut down 30.5cm from the top, then cut

Sew the lining fleece to the opposite side of the zip tape, so that the zip is sandwiched in between the two layers of fleece. (See Pic E.) Sew the hood lining and outer sections with RST. When you come

to sew the end of the zip, tuck the end of the tape into the seam. (See Pic F.)

7

Sew straight across the bottom of the sleeping bag, leaving a turning gap in the lining fleece of about 15.25cm. Push the zip towards the lining side as you sew. Make sure the zip is open. (See Pic G.)

8

Turn the whole bag RS out then sew the opening closed. Push the lining inside the bag. Make a few hand stitches in the point of the hood to hold the lining and outer fleece layers together.

(See Pic H.)

9

Use a long or endless buttonhole stitch on your machine to sew through both layers of fleece over your original seatbelt marks. If you don’t have a buttonhole.

Stitch on your machine, sew two rows of satin stitch. Cut along the marks.

(See Pic I.)

10

Thread the seatbelt straps through the slits and you’re ready to go!

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SHOP LOCAL DIRECTORY BEVERLEY

BEXLEY HEATH

BUCKINGHAMSHIRE

Sewing supplies & fabrics all under one roof! North Bar Fabrics in Cherry Burton is one of the leading fabric stockists in the area. Visit our store today and you will find exactly what you are looking for.

Bernina and Janome stockists

BlueButtonDesigns djpproducts@msn.com Fabric, Wools and Haberdashery 07540 634 351 Buttons, Ribbons and Patterns Blue Make Buttons Designs Weekly Space Group Traders Outlet 39 Parsonage Street 3-7 Tatton Road, Dursley, Glos, GL11Sale, 5RG Cheshire, M33 7EB www.inchesfabrics.co.uk

The Courtyard, Burton Mount, Off Malton Road, Cherry Burton, Beverley, HU17 7RA info@northbarfabrics.co.uk Call: 01964 551 955

CLITHEROE

CHESHIRE

DUMFRIES

GLOUCESTERSHIRE

GRIMSBY

Romy's Sewing Rooms For all your haberdashery needs.

Sewing classes for all ages and abilities.

From Fabrics and Haberdashery, to Wool, Knitting and Crochet Accessories, we have it all here at Friary Stitch.

180 Irish Street, Dumfries, DG1 2NJ 01387250867

romyssewingrooms@gmail.com www.facebook.com/Romyssewingrooms

GRIMSBY

HALIFAX

DABhandLaserCraft Fun & Cute Wood Buttons, more available from www.dabhandlaser.co.uk

Check out our other engraved craft supplies and gifts!

Unit 10 Waltham Windmill Brigsley Road Grimsby N.E. Lincs DN37 0JZ

HAMPSHIRE

Fabric, Wools and Haberdashery Buttons, Ribbons and Patterns Weekly Make Space Group 39 Parsonage Street Dursley, Glos, GL11 5RG www.inchesfabrics.co.uk

Come on in and take a look around!

HAMPSHIRE

HAMPSHIRE

2-4 Bethlehem Street Grimsby, DN31 1JU 01472 357800 www.friarystitch.co.uk

Reads of Winchester Suppliers of sewing machines.

Janome, Elna, Bernina, Toyota, Jaguar Both new and reconditioned.

The Fabbadashery Fabulous Fabrics, Beautiful Buttons and Truly Scrumptious Trimmings.

Craft Workshops Every Week! hello@thefabbadashery.com www.thefabbadashery.com 01422 647574

Many machines on display demonstrations available.

Sales service repair haberdashery supplies

Tel 01962 850950

10-12 Clare Road, Halifax, HX1 2HX

1st Floor, 62 High Street, Winchester, SO23 9BX Open Monday to Saturday 9am to 5pm

HARROGATE

HEREFORD

SEW BUSY

Stockists of Michael Miller, Riley Blake, Makower, Stof, Tilda, Robert Kaufmann, Dashwood and others. Buttons, haberdashery, patterns, unique gifts and craft workshops.

Branksomewood Road, Fleet, Hampshire GU51 4JS Tel: 01252 444220

www.sew-busy.co.uk LINCOLNSHIRE

Badder Fabrics of Hereford

14 High Street, Alton, Hampshire, GU34 1BN T: 01420 544033 E: hello@stitchedbyyou.co.uk www.stitchedbyyou.co.uk Stocking fabrics, haberdashery, dressmaking patterns, and kits!

We also offer a sewing machine repair service and hold craft workshops.

Do pop in and say hello!

42

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is an independent fabric shop on the outskirts of the beautiful spa town of Harrogate in North Yorkshire.

We specialise in linens, wools, cotton lawns and silks, we like to use local suppliers where possible and are known for our customer service.

We offer weekly sewing classes for all abilities call or check the new website.

www.finefabricsofharrogate.co.uk finefabricsofharrogate@gmail.com

One stop shop for all your dressmaking needs Patterns, fashion and bridal fabrics, dressmakingand alterations service Husqvarna sewing machine sales and repairs on all models Taking part in the Shop local giveaway campaign 36a Aubrey Street, Hereford HR4 0BU Tel 01432 379137 Email: badderfabric@gmail.com

A gathering place for friends, fabric and inspiration Fabrics . Haberdashery . Sewing classes Leanne's new sewing shop Lots of exciting plans Pop in to say 'Hi'!

Unit 8, Crown Walk, Bourne, Lincs PE10 9NE 01778 420464 www.gathernsew.co.uk

support your local sewing shop LONDON

Let us teach you the Art of Sewing.

With a variety of Bespoke Tailoring, Pattern Cutting and Garment Making courses, we can help tailor your sewing future Telephone 07399249471 Facebook SKB Tailoring and Training Centre Email skbtailoring@gmail.com

LONDON

Sewing workshops

We make learning easy

KINGS LYNN

The Fent Shop Everything for dress and curtain making, knitting, needlework, and much more!

41 Broad Street, Kings Lynn, Norfolk, PE30 1DP 01553 768613 www.thefentshopkingslynn.co.uk

SCOTLAND

NORTHALLERTON

Our family business offers a warm welcome, great quality fabrics, haberdashery and patterns for dressmakers, quilters, and crafters.

Workshops and lessons for all abilities.

Singer dealer and machine servicing and repairs.

1 The Fairway, Northallerton, North Yorkshire, DL7 8AY 01609 531 399 info@sewnew.co.uk www.sewnew.co.uk

SOMERSET

• Sewing classes • Sewing patterns • Large range of fabrics • Machine sales • Machine service/repairs • Haberdashery 01225 482413 27 Charles Street, Bath, BA1 1HU www.sewingstudiobath.com m.pickles1@btintetrnet.com www.facebook.com/ sewingstudiobath/

TAMWORTH 80 Watling St, Wilnecote Tamworth, Staffs, B77 5BJ

Offering a warm friendly welcome, supplying quality fabrics for dressmaking and quilting.

Weekly sewing sessions Weekend workshops Elna/Janome stockist Machine servicing and repairs Bespoke commissions undertaken

thesewcialstudio.co.uk

TEWKESBURY

MERSEYSIDE

NEWPORT

Stockist of Brother, Janome & Toyota FULL SERVICE NOW £40 (NORMAL PRICE £60) We have a range of haberdashery, yarns, patterns and spare parts available in store. We specialise in repair and service of machines, with free local pick-up and delivery.

185 Hoylake Road, Moreton, Wirral, Merseyside CH46 9QA Tel: 0151 677 7755

NORTHAMPTONSHIRE

PRESTON

Official Silver Sewing Machine stockist

Full range of accessories, needles, pins, scissors, name tape/pens, fabrics, elastics, ribbons, buttons etc Sewing Workshops, popular with all ages from 9 years old upwards.

Alterations Service for Clothing and Soft Furnishings.

Welcome to my lovely craft emporium!

We have lots of crafty goodies for sale however support, inspiration and the service with a smile are free!

Open 9.00am - 5.30pm Monday to Saturday

01280 308721 maryclarestaples@hotmail.co.uk

68 Berry Lane, Longridge, Preston, PR3 3WH 01772 780 883 www.itsofsewcrafty.com

SOMERSET

SOUTHAMPTON

Stockists of: • Gorgeous dressmaking fabrics & accessories • Fabulous yarns • Knit & crochet patterns • Knitpro and Brittany accessories • DMC threads • Classes for beginners Tuesday - Friday 10 - 5, Saturday 10 - 2

thesewingcorner26@gmail.com 18b Silver Street, Ilminster TA19 0DJ 01460 391803

YORKSHIRE

Sheffield’s newest independent sewing store. We stock a wide range of fabrics, including Michael Miller, Riley Blake and Tula Pink. We also offer classes in a variety of crafts.

1a Arundel Road Sheffield S35 2RB 0114 2455996 handmadehappyhare @yahoo.co.uk

Fabulous fabrics for patchwork, dressmaking & crafts.

2 Purlieu Court, Beaulieu Road Dibden Purlieu, Southampton Hampshire SO45 4PX Tel; 02381 783386 Monday – Friday 9-5pm Saturday 9-4pm www.newforestfabrics.co.uk

To advertise in

please call Jane on 0161 474 6997

www.handmadehappyhare.com

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Camille

CREPE SKIRT Use your template download

Sew yourself a chic swingy skirt with inserted godet panels. This skirt is perfect in lovely crĂŞpe and other fabric with fabulous drape Project FIONA HESFORD Sewgirl Photographer ALEX WRIGHT teneight

Fiona

Use your template download

STYLE

A

B

C

D

E

F

SKILL LEVEL: MATERIALS: •• 1.2m 150cm-wide medium-weight crepe or viscose fabric •• 10cm fusible lightweight interfacing •• 2.2m 2.5cm-wide bias binding •• 18cm concealed zip •• waistband hook and bar (or one 2cm button) •• template download from www.sewnowmag.co.uk CUTTING: Fabric150cm 150cmwide wide Fabric wide Fabric 150cm

Waistbandon onsingle singlelayer layer Waistband fold fold

Small (8-10)

Med (12-14)

Large (16-18)

Waist

65-69cm

74-79cm

84-89cm

Hips

90-94cm

99-104cm

109-114cm

HOW TO MAKE: Zigzag or overlock the side seam raw edges on each side. With a 1.5cm seam allowance, insert the concealed zip and sew up the lower part of the seam below the zip. (See Pic A.)

1

2 3

With RST, sew together the opposite side seam, press seam open.

Cut a 4mm notch on your skirt piece only (not the insert) at the top of the curved section of insert. (See Pic B.) Place a pin to mark the top centre point of the insert piece.

4 selvedges selvedges

fold

fold

NOTES: Skirt finished length is approximately 58cm from the top of the waistband As crepe frays, finish all raw edges with an overlocker or zigzag stitch

Always use the tips of your scissors when notching. This gives control and prevents slipping

Matching up the small nick with the pin and with the RST, pin the insert to the curved section of the skirt.

(See Pic C.)

5

Sew on the machine with a 1cm seam allowance, gently stretch out the skirt fabric as you go to ease in the panel.

Finish the raw edge then press the seam allowance flat and inwards. Repeat for the other three inserts. Do not be tempted to baste in the panel as it doesn’t allow you to ease as you sew.

6

Fuse the interfacing to the WS of the waistband. Fold over 1cm on one long side and press.

7

Pin then tack the unfolded edge of the waistband with RST all around, aligning the side seam as indicated on the template. leave a 1cm overhang on one side and 4cm on the opposite side. (See Pic D.) Stitch on the machine with a 1cm seam allowance.

Remove the tacking. Clip the waistband with small triangles in the seam allowance at the curved edges, taking care not to snip into the stitching line. (See Pic E.) Press W WW.S EWNOWMAG.CO.U K

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G

H

the seam allowance upwards towards the waistband.

8

Fold the waistband over so RS are facing and so the folded edge aligns with the waistband seam and pin together. Open out the folded edge and sew the short sides with a 1cm seam allowance and trim the excess seam allowance to reduce the bulk.

(See Pic F.) Fold back through so RS is out, pushing out the corners at each end of the waistband.

9

Pin the folded edge of the waistband, enclosing all the raw edges and line up to the previous line of stitching. Sew by hand with a small slipstitch all around.

10

Sew a hook and bar at the waistband crossover section or stitch a buttonhole and button if preferred.

11

Unfold one side of the bias binding and press with your fingertips. Pin to the lower edge of the skirt with RST. (See Pic G.) Sew along the inner fold. Press seam upwards towards binding. Fold the binding over the raw edge and press. Stitch by hand with a small overstitch or slipstitch. Press to complete.

(See Pic H.)

Get the look

John Kaldor – Fondly £14 per metre

www.croftmill.co.uk

‘Arizona’ black & turquoise mosaic printed viscose fabric £8.95 per metre

www.clothspot.co.uk

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Pink Rosette Crepe

by John Kaldor

Liberty Mary Jean B Tana Crepe Fabric

www.bloomsbury squarefabrics.com

www.guthrie-ghani.co.uk

£16 per metre

£18 per metre

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Home

comforts Take refuge from the cold weather and sew up some cosy pyjamas for the little ones with these fun novelty prints

Bikes print cotton poplin, £7 per metre

Yellow diggers print cotton poplin, £7 per metre

Horses and dressage-themed print cotton, £7 per metre

Zebra print cotton, £7 per metre

Art Gallery chevrons jersey, £11.50 per metre

www.mandco.com

Lilac mermaid cotton print, £7 per metre

Flamingo print cotton jersey, £11.50 per metre

Lilac unicorns print cotton mix, £11.50 per metre

SAVE 20% on all fabrics at Prints and Plains using the code SEWNOW20.

Visit www.printsandplains. co.uk between 11th October and 15th November and enter the code at the checkout to save.

Hurry, this offer is limited to the first 100 customers!

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Discounts giveaways Lovely sewing goodies and patterns to win, plus generous discounts to help fill your fabric stash

WORTH

£100!

WIN A HABERDASHERY BUNDLE

WIN AN ADVENT CALENDAR FROM HEMLINE

Two lucky readers will win an Advent Calendar from Hemline. Recapture that magical spirit and get in the mood for festive fun with goodies for your sewing stash!

To name just a few of the 24 treats hidden behind each door, you’ll find 34mm berry head pins, a retractable tape measure, 3.5” rose gold stork scissors, 1000m white polyester thread, a butterfly yarn threader, hummingbird needle threader, seam ripper, metal thimble and universal sewing needles. Hemline products are available nationwide from haberdashery, knitting and craft stockists. For stockist information, email groves@stockistenquiries.co.uk

Boost your stash by entering this competition to win a bundle of new sparkly sewing items! One lucky reader will win a glitzy metallic Gütermman thread pack, perfect for embellishing home and fashion accessories; a selection of retro Christmas ribbons from Berisfords; festive fat quarter bundles; Klasse dressmaker scissors and more! This bundle of goodies is ideal to help you get your Christmas crafting off to a flying start. For stockist information, contact Gütermann, at gütermann@ stockistenquiries.co.uk

WIN A BUNDLE OF TILDA PRODUCTS

WORTH OVER

£100!

If you’re a fan of Tilda products, then you will not want to miss this competition to win a bundle of items worth over £100!

One lucky reader will win a fabulous selection of products, including a range of buttons, ribbons, a Tilda Circus Friend Elephant Doll, a selection of books and a fat quarter bundle!

To see more of the vibrant Tilda products stocked by Sew and So visit www.sewandso.co.uk

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DISCOUNTS & GIVEAWAYS WIN A COPY OF A YEAR OF EMBROIDERY

BY YUMIKO HIGUCHI

WIN A FABRIC BUNDLE FROM THE CRAFTY MASTERMIND

2

Celebrate the beauty TO WIN! of the seasons with this colourful title from Yumiko Higuchi. We have two copies of A Year of Embroidery (Roost Books, £19.49) which presents 38 seasonal motifs from snow flowers in January to seashells in July, allowing you to stitch a handful of seasonal designs for every month of the year. Each project includes beautiful photography and easy-tofollow instructions, there’s also an embroidery basics and techniques section, making this title suitable for all levels. To see more titles from Roost Books, please visit www.roostbooks.com

WIN A ROLL OF VLIESELINE SEAM TAPE FLEXIBLE

Top up your fabric stash with this lovely collection of prints from the Loved to Pieces range by Mathew Boudreaux for AGF. One lucky reader will win a bundle of fabric from the Loved to Pieces collection which features a glorious melange of florals and geometric shapes against a backdrop of vibrant blues, greens and pinks. To browse the collection, visit www.thecraftymastermind.co.uk

Five lucky readers will win a roll of Seam Tape Flexible from Vlieseline. This new bi-elastic, lightweight fusible woven tape is cut on the bias and is therefore perfect for use on jersey and other stretchy fabric. Seam Tape Flexible prevents warping and fraying and can be applied to curved shapes to provide the necessary support and stability.

To find out more about Vlieseline products, visit www.vlieseline.com and for stockist information, contact Lady Sew and Sew 01491 572 528, www.ladysewandsew.co.uk or Six Penny Memories 01207 565728, www.six-penny.com

WIN A COPY OF FAT QUARTER: ONE PIECE PROJECTS

Expand your craft library by entering this competition to win this fabulous stashbusting sewing book, TO WIN! Fat Quarter: One Piece Projects by Tina Barrett (GMC, £12.99). This book is perfect to help you put those fabrics scraps and fat quarters to good use with the inclusion of 25 useful projects, including a door stop, magazine holder, pencil case, eye mask and bedside lampshade. You’ll find easy-to-follow photo instructions for each make as well as a handy tools and techniques section. To see more titles from GMC, visit www.gmcbooks.com

3

Exclusive discounts!

SAVE 20% on Kwik Sew patterns with the code SN26. Simply quote the code when calling 0344 880 1263 between 11th October – 1st November 2018. Offer not available online, P&P charges still apply. Browse the collection of patterns at www.sewdirect.com

SAVE 20% on Dashwood Studio fabric at Fabric HQ with the code SEWNOW20.

Offer valid from 11th October – 15th November. Visit www.fabrichq.co.uk

SAVE 20% on fabric at Prints and Plains with the code SEWNOW20. Offer valid between 11th October – 15th November 2018.

Visit www.printsandplains.co.uk to take advantage of this amazing offer. Hurry, offer valid to the first 100 customers only.

To enter, go to www.ppjump.com/sewnow26

Closing date: 15th November 2018. Only one entry per person. Open to UK residents only. We promise we’ll always keep your data safe and will never share it with or sell it to other companies for marketing purposes. Our full privacy policy is available at www.practicalpublishing.co.uk/privacy W W W.S EWNOWMAG.CO.U K

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Glitterati

CLUTCH BAG Add a touch of twinkle to your favourite party outfit with this easy glitter clutch bag Project DEBBIE VON GRABBLER-CROZIER

Use your template download

Debbie

ACCESSORY

A

B

C

D

E

F

SKILL LEVEL: MATERIALS: •• 1 packet gold Threaders glitter fabric •• 35cm grey Christmas-print fabric for lining •• fat eighth Vlieseline S320 interfacing •• 35cm Vlieseline H630 fusible wadding •• magnetic clip •• 5 white wooden snowflake buttons •• black & white ribbon scrap •• black & white baker’s twine •• 18cm light mustard zipper •• co-ordinating thread for topstitching •• Gütermann HT2 fabric glue templates •• free templates downloaded from www.sewnowmag.co.uk NOTES: All seams are 0.5cm unless otherwise stated CUTTING: From gold glitter fabric, cut: 1 flap piece 2 22x30cm pieces

HOW TO MAKE: Fuse the gold glitter fabric flap piece to the H630 flap piece. Trace the flap shape onto the 33x25cm lining piece. Fuse the 6cm square piece to the pointed tip of flap lining on the wrong side. (See Pic A.) Do not cut out yet.

1

2

Place the cut out flap RST onto the lining and align the drawn edge of the lining so that it all matches. Sew around the flap, leaving the back open.

Trim the lining and clip the point and corners of the flap. (See Pic B.)

Mark another line with two angles at each end. (See Pic F) This is the cutting line.

8

Place the pocket lining right sides together onto the back panel right in the centre and pin. The top of the pocket lining should be 3cm down from the top edge of the glitter panel.

Very fine pins work best on this sort of fabric.

Clips usually don’t work because the pocket is not near enough to the edge.

Some low-tack tape will also work if your pins are too coarse

3

Turn the flap right way out and press carefully using a cloth. Top-stitch very narrowly along the sides and point of the flap using a co-ordinating thread.

(See Pic C.) Keep the back open.

4

Attach the male half of the magnetic clip to the peak of the flap (See Pic D.)

From lining fabric, cut: 25x33cm piece 23x30cm piece 2 22x30cm pieces

5 6

9

From H630 interfacing, cut: 1 flap piece 22x30cm piece

7

10

From S320 interfacing, cut: 2 6cm squares 10x15cm piece

Baste the back closed and very lightly trim if required.

Fuse a 22x30cm piece of gold glitter fabric to a piece of H630 interfacing of the same size.

Make a zipper box pocket 2.5cm down from one top edge. Crease the 23x30cm lining piece to find the vertical centre, measure down 3.5cm from one short end and mark a 1x18cm box. (See Pic E.) This is the sewing line.

Sew around the sewing line and cut along the cutting line. ‘Post’ the lining through the hole and press carefully using a cloth. Top-stitch the zipper in place.

(See Pic G.) Bring the other short end of the lining up to meet the first and sew the sides and top to complete the pocket.

Attach a piece of baker’s twine through the zipper pull.

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G

H

11

13

12

14

Fuse a 6cm S320 square to the wrong side of a 22x30cm gold glitter fabric piece about 10cm down from the top and in the middle.

Attach the female half of the magnetic clip 14cm down from the top on the centre line. Fuse a piece of H630 to the front panel (on the wrong side).

Accessorising with a monochrome ribbon makes your clutch match any outfit

On the right-hand side, attach a folded scrap of ribbon.

(See Pic H.) Choose two 22x30cm lining fabric pieces for each fabric and fuse the 10x15cm S320 interfacing to the wrong side of what will become the pocket outer.

15

With right sides together, pin the interfaced outer to the lining and sew around the very edge of the interfacing leaving a gap on the bottom (one of the long sides).

16

Trim the seam allowance back to 0.5cm, clip the corners across. (See Pic I.) Turn out through the gap. Press the pocket carefully

I

and top-stitch the top edge only then site on the lining 5cm down from the top on the vertical centre. With a co-ordinating thread, top-stitch into place with a narrow seam.

17

Consider segmenting the pocket with a vertical seam, depending on what you need it for – think pens and phone – this stops sagging too.

18

With right sides together, sew the lining, leaving a turning gap in the bottom.

19

To assemble, place the front and back right sides together and sew the side and bottom seams.

Clip the corners and turn the right way out. Make the corners nice and sharp.

Attach the flap to the back panel.

20

With the bag outer the right way out and the lining inside out, pull the lining on over the outer and align everything. Sew right around the top edge leaving no gaps. Pull the whole bag out the right way through the gap in the lining and close the gap.

Stuff the lining down into the bag and top-stitch the top edge.

Get the look

Threaders Glitter

30x69cm fabric sheet £6.99

www.crafterscompanion.co.uk

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INSPIRATION

Halloween cat cross-stitch chart £11.20, www.sewandso.co.uk

Wreath £18, www.johnlewis.com

Halloween nail transfers £3.85, www.notonthehighstreet.com

Sugar skull lapel pin £14 each, www.notonthehighstreet.com

Emma Bridgewater mug £19.95, www.emmabridgewater.co.uk Halloween snow globe £1.50, www.primark.com

Get your

Halloween glitter tubes 6 pack £1, www.hobbycraft.co.uk

FREAK ON Play trick or treat with these frightening and fabulous Halloween items

Black star longline shirt £29.99, www.yoursclothing.co.uk

Beaded clutch bag £50, www.anthropologie.com

Tula Pink De La Luna fabric £15 per metre, www.thecraftymastermind.co.uk

Six pack place set £5, www.sainsburys.co.uk

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Naomi

Christmas coasters Hand-piece this gorgeous gift for a Christmas project that is sure to bring many years of joy!

Project NAOMI CLARKE

SKILL LEVEL: MATERIALS: •• 12x8¾” Dash Cream Makower Christmas 2017 Traditional collection •• 12x8¾” Dash Green Makower Christmas 2017 Traditional collection •• 12x15½” Dash Red Makower Christmas 2017 Traditional collection (this is enough for the coaster backing and to self-bind

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the coaster, extra fabric may be needed if another binding method is used) •• 12” square Insul-Fleece •• basting thread or glue •• templates downloaded from www.sewnowmag.co.uk (or Clover patchwork templates (494/S square/octagon) FINISHED SIZE: 4¼” square (each coaster)

and baste four triangles (shape B) using template 2.

3 4 5

From the Dash Cream cut and baste 12 triangles (shape C) using template 2.

From the Dash Green cut and baste 12 triangles (shape D) using template 2.

Cut a 6” square from the Insul-Fleece.

NOTES: Cut the fabric with a minimum of 0.5cm seam allowance throughout

6

PREPARING: From the Trees Cream cut and baste one square (shape A) using template 1.

7

1 2

From the Dash Red cut one 6” square and place to one side for later. Cut

HOW TO MAKE: Join the long edge of shape B to the edge of shape A (See Pic A.) Repeat for all four edges of shape A. Join the long edge of shape C to the long edge of shape D. (See Pic B.) Repeat until all Shape Cs and Ds are used. This will give you a total of 12 squares.

HOME

A

B

C

D

E

8 9

Join two squares together.

(See Pic C.) Repeat.

Join the square pair from Step 9 to one side of the central square. Repeat for the other side. (See Pic D.)

10 11

Join four squares together.

(See Pic E.) Repeat.

Join this row of four to the top of the central square. Repeat for the bottom. (See Pic F.)

12

Press the coaster top and remove the tacking stitches (if used) before removing the paper pieces.

13

Make a quilt sandwich using the paper-pieced coaster top, 6” square of Insul-Fleece and 6” square of Dash Red. Baste and quilt using your preferred method.

14

Trim the excess wadding and backing, and bind using your

preferred method. If self-binding, trim the excess wadding and trim the backing so there is ¾” of backing fabric all the way around. Fold over the edges to self-bind the quilt.

F

SHAPE REFERENCE A

15

Repeat earlier steps for cutting, preparing, assembly and finishing a further three times to make a total of four coasters. Make a hot chocolate and enjoy having a festive coaster to rest it on!

B

We used

Makower Christmas 2017 Traditional collection is available from www.cottonpatch.co.uk For details of Gütermann thread, contact gutermann@stockistenquiries.co.uk

C D

For details of Clover products, contact clover@stockistenquiries.co.uk

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’s n g UK i e e ew i n Th .1 s gaz o N ma

MAKE IT A

wonderful winter

Don’t miss!

TWO GIFTS

WORTH OVER

£17

ISSUE 59

ON SALE

NOW Contents and gift subject to change

Order your copy today at www.moremags.com/ls59

WORKSHOPS

Sewing

WORKSHOPS Book yourself into one of this month's top workshops and expand your sewing horizons

Frank Nutt Sewing Machines Birmingham Frank Nutt Sewing Machines was Established in 1985. There is an extensive range of around 100 sewing machines and overlockers on display, ready for demonstration, including the Bernina long-arm machine. It holds various events and service machines.

Shop website: www.franknutt.co.uk Book workshops: www.clairemuir.co.uk

The Sew Studio Fife The Sew Studio is a beautiful new highstreet store in Dunfermline, Scotland. A great range of fabrics for your patchwork, dressmaking and homeware projects are available as well as studio classes in a positive social environment where you can escape from the world and focus on the joy of sewing, knitting, crochet, papercrafting and more!

01383 621894 create@thesewstudio.co.uk www.thesewstudio.co.uk

20TH OCTOBER Embroidered lace bowl Make a beautiful lacy bowl and learn how to free-machine embroider by sewing on Avalon-soluble fabric, adding a battery-operated tea light to make it to twinkle on your table.

Suitable for complete beginners.

20TH OCTOBER Lacy bauble or heart decoration Come and learn how to use Solufleece-soluble fabric to create a gorgeous bauble or heart decoration embellished with beads and sequins.

This class involves free-machine embroidery and is suitable for beginners.

Cost: £25

on soluble fabric, with beautiful crystals and beads that create the flower centre.

Perfect for a Christmas brooch or classy tree decoration. Previous experience is required.

Cost: £65

10TH NOVEMBER Velvet and embroidered lace poinsettia Create a beautiful free-machine embroidered lace and velvet poinsettia

17TH NOVEMBER Thread and texture – free-machine embroidery for complete beginners Learn just how easy it is to free-machine embroider. Whether you have never tried it before or want to learn more about it, this fun and relaxed course is for you.

Cost: £65

27TH OCTOBER Make and take – free-motion embroidery Christmas placemat Learn the fundamentals of free-motion embroidery and get creative by making your own fun and festive table placemat.

All materials for one mat are included in the price, so all you need to bring is yourself and your free-motion spirit!

Cost: £35 (all materials included)

17TH NOVEMBER Needle-felted reindeer & polar bear baubles This is a fun and Christmassy class where you will learn the art of sculpting using wool felt, barbed needles and a mat. You’ll be shown how to mold and model wool fleece to make Christmas baubles to make a reindeer and a polar bear!

Cost: £35 (all materials included)

3RD NOVEMBER Get creative – Christmas party jumpsuit Join in for a fun day in our inspiring studio making a glam jumpsuit for the Christmas party season. Be the envy of your workmates and whip up this stylish jumpsuit by Tilly and the Buttons, then team your finished Marigold with heels and a statement necklace for the perfect party outfit!

Cost: £59 (pattern included) W W W.S EWNOWMAG.CO.U K

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Full of charm

BAG Pick out the best of your stash and piece together this vibrant patchwork bag to beat the winter blues Project KATY JONES

Katy

Great gift make

Spray-basting is ideal for a project this size. You can buy Odif 505 Spray Baste in local quilt shops and online

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ACCESSORY

HANDLES TO TRY

A

MATERIALS: •• 1/2 charm pack (or 18 5” squares) additional materials for bag: •• 14½x21” lining fabric •• 16x24” wadding •• bag handles with pre-punched holes additional materials for cushion: •• 60x2½” binding fabric (pieced is fine) •• 18” square wadding •• 18” square lining fabric (calico is fine) •• FQ for envelope opening FINISHED SIZE: Bag 14x10” (excluding handles), cushion 16” square CUTTING: Cut 18 squares in the charm pack into quarters to form a total of 72 2½” squares Set aside 70 squares for the bag.

B

wadding and even up the edges of each of the panels using a ruler and rotary cuter.

6

Place the patchwork panels right sides together and, using a good ¼” seam allowance, sew down each side and across the bottom edge.

Leave the top open. Clip the corners and turn right way out. Press well.

7

Take the lining fabric and cut into two pieces, each measuring 14½x10½”. Place them right sides together and sew down each of the sides, and across the bottom, leaving a gap in the middle of the bottom edge of 3” or so.

BAG ASSEMBLY: Arrange the squares for the bag into two sets of 35 squares, 5 rows of 7 squares in each set. Make sure the distribution of prints and colours is nice and even and sew the squares together in rows.

2

9

Press the seams open, and sew the rows together, pressing the seams open again. Repeat with the second panel.

3

Cut the wadding into two 16x12” pieces. Centre the panels on top of the wadding pieces, right side facing up.

Baste into place.

4

Once basted, you can quilt each of the panels as you prefer. I chose to quilt in simple vertical lines.

5

Once quilted, press the panels to make them nice and flat.

Once pressed, trim off the excess

BRAID AWAY

Prym navy cotton braided bag handles £11.50 per pair www.jaycotts.co.uk

8

Take the bag handles and position on one side of the bag, at the top, where you want your handle to sit, but making sure you leave a gap of about 1” from the top of the bag and the top of the part of handle that you are stitching on (the bit with pre-punched holes). Use tailor’s chalk or a marking tool to mark the position and tack into place. (See pics A and B.)

1

SWEET CARAMEL

22½” camel faux-leather handles £12.50 per pair www.purple-stitches.com

Using a heavier-weight thread, such as 28wt or a top-stitching thread, doubled over, securely handstitch the handle into place, repeat with the other side of the first handle, and then repeat with the other side of the bag.

10

With the lining still the wrong way out, place the patchwork bag inside the lining, fabrics right sides together. Gently push the handles out of the way (this bit is a bit fiddly) and pin or use clips all the way around the top of the bag to hold the lining and bag outer in place. Stitch around the perimeter with a ¼” seam allowance.

HIGH SHINE

Gold 38cm faux-leather stitch-on ba handles £5.80 per pair www.adamventure-craftshop.co.uk Take this bit slowly, with the needle in the needle down position.

11

Turn through the opening in the bottom of the bag, sew the opening in the lining closed and push into the bag. Give the top a press making sure the lining is completely pushed into the bag and the top edge is neat and tidy. Finally, top-stitch all the way round the top, close to the edge.

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the centre fold of the first seam becomes the outside edge

first seam allowance

Behind the SEAMS Whatever your level of expertise, step up your skills with our handy guide to seam finishes

Simple seam finishes

FRENCH SEAMS

This construction technique and seam finish is perfect for lightweight or sheer fabric.

PINKING SHEARS

Simply trim your seam allowance edges with pinking shears after the seam has been sewn. Do not trim before sewing the seam unless you have marked the stitching line.

The zigzag edge will prevent fabric from fraying.

(WS)

How to make:

pinking shears finish TOP-STITCHED EDGES

Start with a sewn seam that has been pressed open. Press each seam allowance under by 1/8" to the WS and top-stitch each seam allowance edge to secure the raw edge underneath.

(WS)

1

Place fabrics WST. Sew a 3/8" seam allowance from the raw edge and trim to 1/8".

topstitched finish ZIGZAG FINISH

This can be used before or after a seam has been sewn. Sew through the seam allowance only, close to each raw edge with a zigzag stitch and press to set the stitches. The stitch should neatly fall at or just off the edge.

(WS)

2

Press open the seam and press over with RST. Sew a second seam Âź" from the edge. This will trap the seam allowance edges behind the second line of stitching.

zigzag finish HONG KONG SEAMS

Also known as bound seams, these feature the application of double-fold bias tape after every seam is sewn, before moving onto the next construction step.

How to make:

1

Sew a straight seam and press open. Press one side of the bias tape open and pin it along the edge of one seam allowance with RST. Sew along the crease to attach the seam allowance and bias tape together.

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2

Wrap the bias tape around the edge of the seam allowance and pin in place so the tape sits just over the sewn stitching line.

3

Secure by stitching in the ditch or just to the inside of the original stitching to catch the folded bias tape on the back of the seam. Sew

only through the bias tape and seam allowance, not garment.

Repeat on remaining seam allowance to finish.

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INTERVIEW

5 minutes with…

Fabric Godmother This month, Sew Now speaks to Josie, who founded Fabric Godmother, an inspirational online store packed full of gorgeous fabrics, patterns and haberdashery Hi Josie! Can you tell us a bit about your background and how Fabric Godmother began?

I was working as a Buyer on the high street and felt disillusioned by the Josie corporate world. I had always made my own clothes but realised that many fabric shops were closing down and it was difficult to find beautiful dressmaking fabrics online – this was my opportunity to start Fabric Godmother.

How do you select fabrics for the shop?

I always try to picture in my mind what I would make with the fabrics I select. This means the collection we have is very personal to me, which is probably why I am so passionate about our fabrics.

Which fabrics are proving most popular at the moment?

We are selling lots of autumn and winter fabrics at the moment like coating and thick jerseys, we have also just had our first

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delivery of Christmas fabric which is very exciting (and sparkly).

What are the best and the most challenging elements of running your own business?

I never have enough time to do all the things I want so have to be super-efficient and juggle lots of things. My daughter started school this September so I have even more juggling to do. I wouldn’t change it though I love being busy, it keeps me on my toes!

Is there anything new or exciting that you are working on over the next few months?

There are some big projects in the pipeline but I can’t tell you about them at the moment. Let’s just say there are some great things coming to Fabric Godmother.

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To find out more, visit www.fabricgodmother.co.uk