lkojhz by mel.zecevic

W K! Fly zippers made easy Get perfect pleats every time E N O LO

Back to school satchel

ISSUE 24

STEP-BY-STEP PROJECTS

In UK sizes 6-20

Easy-sew wrap skirt Stylish kitchen set Retro appliqué cushion Flattering trousers

Quick-make baby rattle Make a top tonight ISSUE 24 UK £9.99 www.sewnowmag.co.uk

Your 4-in-1 pattern

WELCOME

Hello

ake a peek into your wardrobe – trousers probably make up a large part of your go-to garments, so this month’s McCall’s 7726 (page 10) 4 -in-1 trouser pattern will become a �rm favourite. With high-waist detail and optional sash belt, it’s a great pattern to learn to sew accurate pleats – follow our tips on page 11. If you’re looking for easy summer style, the Simple Sew Utility dress (page 20) is a �attering pull-over dress that’s great for the beach or bar, with no tricky closures and a part elasticated, part pull-tie waist. With summer in full swing we’re ready for lazy weekends and well-deserved sewing time. Go retro with our 60s-inspired kitchen set (page 33) and pick up some basic patchwork and quilting skills along the way. Or why not try appliqué and make the Perfectly Planted cushion (page 50)? It would make a gorgeous gift!

42 50

We've a fabulous bonus sewing pattern as well as lots of new fabric, sewing news and tips to improve your sewing. Don’t forget we’ve got lots of fantastic prizes up for grabs, so head on over to www.ppjump.com/sewnow24 to enter. Happy sewing!

Sam

Editor sam.sterken@practicalpublishing.co.uk

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Inside this issue of 30

3 ISSUES FOR £12 when you subscribe

Turn to page 24 for details

52 REGULARS

6 52

DISCOUNTS AND GIVEAWAYS Sewing goodies and exclusive discounts just for you!

61 64 66

SEWING WORKSHOPS Learn new skills and make new friends

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GO RETRO Brighten up breakfast time with this collection of kitchen projects

5 MINUTES WITH… We speak to the creative duo behind the newly launched Maternity Sewing

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STELLA BIAS-TRIM TOP Create striking colour combinations using bias binding

BEHIND THE SEAMS Our handy guide to seam �nishes

TUTORIALS

20 30

UTILITY DRESS Sew an easy-to-wear pull-over dress

NEWS What’s new in sewing

VERA WRAP SKIRT Stretch your skills by creating this pretty wrap skirt with topstitch detailing HAPPY HEXIE We show you how to create a shoulder tote bag using paper piecing

ON THE FLY Wendy’s step-by-step guide to inserting �y front zips

PROJECTS

WALK THIS WAY Our top tips for using your exclusive McCall’s pattern

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PERFECTLY PLANTED CUSHION Use your precious fabric scraps to create this simple cushion ELEPHANT SCHOOL BAG This oilcloth bag is sturdy and easy to clean, making it perfect for kids

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CONTENTS

MEET THE TEAM:

Editor

54 62

TINY TURTLE RATTLE This soft baby rattle is the ideal gift for a little one

Sam

Editorial Assistant

INSPIRATION

15 19

SKIP TO THE PLEAT Our fabric picks for fun and �oaty trousers

CHERRY-PICKED FABRIC Fabric inspiration from some of our favourite suppliers

Lorna

WEAR IT WITH Fashion inspiration to help you style your exclusive pattern

Seamstress

HARDWARE STORE HABERDASHERY Find ingenious sewing tools at your local hardware store

MEET YOUR MATCH Pick your perfect fabric and enjoy an exclusive 20% discount from Dragon�y Fabrics

Jeanette

Photographer

28 40

FALL FILLERS Our pattern picks for the season ahead

TRÈS CHIC! DEER&DOE We speak to the creative duo behind French brand, Deer&Doe

Renata

GET A HANDLE ON IT Our top tips for choosing a stylish �tted handle for your bag projects

58 59

SKILLS AND THRILLS Swat up with a favourite skill-building �nds

SIMPLE SEW PATTERNS DISCOUNT Boost your home-sewn wardrobe with this exclusive Simple Sew discount

Exclusive prizes!

52 Your chance to win lovely sewing goodies including a Tilly and the Buttons online class and fabric from the new Gütermann Blooms collection

SKILL LEVEL GUIDE Beginner Adventurous beginner Intermediate Advanced

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What’s new?

The patterns, events and sewing goodies on our radar this month

Pattern picks McCall’s 7801 With four di�erent garment options to choose from, the McCall’s 7801 dress pattern is really versatile and could be adapted to suit any season. There are plenty of features to help you stretch your skills; each garment has a partially �tted bodice atop a �oaty skirt with di�erent length and sleeve variations and the option of a tie belt or snap closure. You can also choose a pretty �ouncy neckline or a minimalist collar or collarless version. The printed pattern is $19.95 (approximately £15) from mccallpattern.mccall.com

Clare, Closet Case Patterns As we head into autumn, coat making is sure to be on our ‘to make’ list. This A-line raglan sleeved coat is the perfect layering staple; it o�ers two �attering options allowing you to choose your preferred length, collar style and sleeve. Opt for version A with a pretty faceframing neckline and princess sleeve, or if you like a more relaxed look, version B features full-length sleeves and a large funnel collar. This pattern is really adaptable and one you will reach for year after year. The PDF pattern is $14 (approximately £10.67) from www.store. closetcasepatterns.com

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THROW A POUCH

Keep your precious sewing notions stored safely with this happy duo of zippered eco pouches designed by Christina Cameli. Composed of recycled plastic these sturdy organisers can store all types of sewing tools and they’re waterproof too! The set of two pouches is priced at $9.95 (approximately £7.58) from www.ctpub.com/totes-pouches

Button up

Personalise your home-sewn style with these versatile ceramic buttons from Beyond Measure. Handmade in the UK by Caroline Barnes, these porcelain clay buttons have a lovely glazed �nish and take inspiration from Caroline’s vintage, seaside and botanical illustrations and photographs. Each set is priced at £10. Visit www.shopbeyondmeasure. co.uk to �nd out more

NEWS

Readers’ makes We love to see what you’ve been working on. Each month’s star maker will receive a voucher from Mark at Girl Charlee Adèle We love Adèle’s version of the Anneka tunic, which was an exclusive pattern with issue 19. With its clean Scandi-inspired lines, this pattern is really ﬂattering and a great seasonspanning garment. Adèle used Mustard Yellow fabric from Dashwood Studio.

£25 WIN A

VOUCHER FROM

STAR MAKE

FLOWER CHILD

Celebrate the cosmic powers of Mother Earth with this whimsical collection of prints from Art Gallery Fabrics. Flower Child brings together an eclectic mix of colours and shapes from enchanted meadows in teal, vibrant fuchsia pixie dust and empowering cosmic sister imprints. The collection features 100% cottons, knits and rayons and is perfect for adding some pretty boho prints to your next make. To see the full collection, visit www.liveartgalleryfabrics.com

In a bind

Add a bit of sparkle to your garments with this shimmery collection of bias binding from Cloth and Candy. Available in a vibrant array of neons and metallics, these cool tapes could be used on the outside of your garments as a fun contrast. Or why not use the tape to line seam �nishes or create bold stripes? Each pack is £4.75 for 2cm x 3m at www.clothand candy.co.uk

Great for the Stella top on page 30! WWW.S EWNOWMAG.CO.U K

CHRISTIAN DIOR: DESIGNER OF DREAMS Laura Every month, Laura Victoria shares what’s been going on with the #SewMyStyle project This month is all about trousers with two patterns on the #sewmstyle2018 schedule; The True Bias Lander Pants and the Blank Slate Patterns Forsythe Trousers. The True Bias Landers already have a substantial Catherine in the True following, having onBias Lander shorts trend features such as the button �y, high waist and straight leg. Given the current heatwave it’s no surprise that lots of short and cropped versions have popped up recently! An added bene�t of making the shorts version is that it’s an excellent way of assessing �t ahead of sewing full-length versions. Catherine from Threadsnips was leading this month and altered her shorts to include a contoured waistband for a better �t, as well as making a feature out of the topstitching (she’s much braver than I am!). Lauren Guthrie also posted a YouTube video all about this pattern at the beginning of the month which is really worth checking out before you get started. I went with the Forsythe trousers (which I would say could be the easier of the two patterns) and have basically made secret pyjamas! I actually used pyjama elastic at the waist so they are super comfortable and I don’t think you can even tell that there is an elasticated waist in there as it is quite subtle. I eliminated a few steps and left o� the mock front �y after seeing Ruthsews’s tips on our Facebook group. You Laura in her could make these trousers Forsythe Trousers even easier by leaving o� the welt pockets too, but I kept them because they help to camou�age the secret pyjamas a little more, and it was the �rst opportunity I had to try out this new technique – I love it when you get to learn something new as you are making. I’m expecting new learning with next month’s Hey June Halifax hoodie too!

Christian Dior with model Sylvie, circa 1948. Courtesy of Christian Dior

From beautifully elaborate couture gowns to the recognised cosmetic slogan ‘J’adore Dior’, there are few fashion facets left uncovered by the iconic fashion brand Dior. To recount the fashion house’s enduring success, the V&A will host the UK’s largest exhibition in February next year to enable visitors to discover the historical impact and in�uences of revolutionary designer Christian Dior and his successors at the House of Dior. Starting from the late 1940s to the present day, Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams will shine a spotlight on rare couture garments, alongside a collection of artefacts including illustrations, fashion photography and Dior’s personal possessions. Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams opens on Saturday 2nd February 2019. For more information and tickets, visit www.vam.ac.uk

Écarlate afternoon dress, autumn/winter 1955 Haute Couture collection, Y line. Victoria and Albert Museum, London

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Christian Dior with model Lucky, circa 1955. Courtesy of Christian Dior

NEWS

Sew Sew Fabrics This month, we spoke to Claire who owns Sew Sew Fabrics in Bexleyheath. This lovely independent shop stocks a fantastic range of fabric and haberdashery and runs regular workshops Hi Claire! What are you up to at the shop today? We have been really busy setting up our brand-new classroom area and expanding our dressmaking ranges in to the old sewing room, whilst also getting website orders posted out and serving customers in the shop! Next, we have to get all of the new fabric scanned and on to the website so it’s a very busy time!

Claire

Tell us a bit about how you came to own your own shop I wanted to sew clothes for my children and found it di�cult to �nd designs of fabric that I liked so the business started online, mainly to assist with my hobby. The stock was initially stored in the cupboard under the stairs before taking over the garage. When it outgrew the garage, I decided to get a warehouse so that I would be able to open to the public and run classes as well. Which sewing machine would you recommend for a beginner, or an experienced sewist? We love the basic Janome machines which have been used by various students in our workshops. One of ours

COMING SOON

SHOP OF THE MONTH

is a John Lewis branded one in bright pink! At around £100 they are perfect machines for beginners and nice and light to transport to classes. Have you had any memorable moments with customers? We are privileged to have a large number of regular customers and seeing what they have made and how their skills grow with time is really rewarding. Is there anything new or exciting coming up that you’d like to tell our readers about? The new classroom is now open. There's lots more space and it is the perfect setting for all of

IN OUR GOOD BOOKS

My First Book of Sewing by Catherine Guidicelli If you’re a beginner sewist My First Book of Sewing ($22.95, approximately £17, Dover Publications) is the ideal reference to have. The book addresses many of the common questions posed by beginners such as how to choose patterns and assemble the pieces or start using your sewing machine. There are 22 simple projects and you’ll �nd easy-to-follow instructions with diagrams and projects ranked in terms of di�culty. Find out more at store.doverpublications.com

Wabi-Sabi Sewing: 20 sewing patterns for perfectly imperfect projects by Karen Lewis Discover the rewarding results ON SALE of sewing homeNOW décor makes and accessories wabisabi style with this wonderfully refreshing take on lifestyle sewing. Wabi-Sabi Sewing by Karen Lewis presents 20 sewing projects inspired by the popular Japanese concept of ‘wabi-sabi’ – a philosophy centring on the idea that beauty can be found through the imperfect and ordinary. To �nd out more about this title and others published by F&W Media, visit www.fwcontenthub.com

your sewing projects! We have lots of exciting classes for the autumn term and our fabric range is expanding rapidly too so if you’re local pop in. Sew Sew Fabrics has become a great community sharing skills, assistance and friendship. Our Christmas party was such fun and sta�, students and customers are looking forward to this year's! Sew Sew Fabrics Unit 4, Rear of 39-41 Church Road, Bexleyheath, Kent DA7 4DD 0844 807 3226 info@sewsewfabrics.co.uk www.sewsewfabrics.co.uk

COMING

Sew Perfect Pets SOON by Helen Rhiannon Add some fun and functional animal-themed projects to your ‘to make’ list with this new book from Helen Rhiannon. Sew Perfect Pets (£12.99, Search Press) includes 18 colourful makes – from an owl doorstop to an elephant tea cosy – that o�er a fun interpretation of useful household items. Each project includes easy-to-follow instructions and templates which are suitable for all levels of sewist. To �nd out more, visit www.searchpress.com

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YOUR

FAB PATTERN VIEW D Coast frill top £39, www.houseo�raser.co.uk

Walk this

WAY

McCall’s 7726 with four fabulous trouser options, a stylish high waist and ﬂy-zip closure is a great pattern for improving your skills. From shorts and fashionable wideleg ﬂares to cropped trousers and co-ordinating sash, it has it all! Photography RENATA STONYTE Model SIMONE for NEMISIS Hair and make-up NINA ROCHFORD for CREATIVES

Follow our ﬂy zip tutorial on Page 16

Get the look

£12.95 per metre

www.seasaltcornwall.co.uk

Phase Eight X-front sandals £49, www.houseo�raser.co.uk

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Simone is 5’ 9” and a size 12

Printed viscose twill cotton

This lightweight twill fabric has a slightly textured feel, beautiful drape and soft lustre, which makes the most of this unique Seasalt print

Neat PLEATS

Your 4-in-1 McCall’s 7726 trouser pattern is the ideal way to master sewing the perfect pleat. Use our techniques and top tips to help you on your way

Perfect circles ● MAKING A MARK

Use an air-erasable pen to clearly mark the centre of the circle through the pattern and onto the fabric – add extra pins to secure the two together around the circle. (Always test the marker �rst on scrap of fabric to make sure it will come out of the fabric.) Either mark with a cross or a single, clear dot in the centre. Make sure you check the mark before removing the pattern.

● TOP TAILOR'S TACK

The trick to using tailor’s tack, particularly when marking a larger circle, is to ensure your tack marks the centre of the circle by sewing an X stitch. This online Craftsy tutorial with step-by-step photos will guide your through each stage www.craftsy.com/sewing/ article/tailors-tacks-for-pattern-marking

● HOLE IN ONE!

Blogger Portia Lawrie of Makery has come up with the ingenious idea of marking pattern circles with hole reinforcers. As well as being an easy way to mark everything from darts to pleats, they reduce wear and tear on your pattern. Take a look at Portia’s tutorial at www.makery.co.uk/2013/07/top-tip-alternativeto-tailor-tacks

Topstitch

Commonly used as a decorative touch to �nish a garment or project, the real roots of this stitch lie in reinforcing areas that might come under strain. The pleats on M7726 is a great example of this and, after each pleat is sewn on the wrong side, it is then topstitched in place from the right side. To ensure the pleat lies �at, leave your needle in the fabric, pivot and sew a single stitch across to the edge of the pleat. As you move this prevents strain on thread, stopping the pleat from breaking open. We’ve been blown away by the fabric inspiration and styling ideas on Instagram – simply use #M7726. Jess_sews_clothes has made up two wardrobe staples to mix and match with bright tops www. instagram.com/ jess_sews_clothes

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VIEW B

M7726 is suitable for cotton twill, denim or chino

Why not try?

Mughal cerise and green printed viscose twill ÂŁ13.95 per metre

www.clothspot.co.uk

Woven twill dark powder digital print ÂŁ14.50

www.stoffstil.co.uk

Skip to the

PLEAT

Flaunt your ﬂattering trousers or shorts with our top fabric picks for your exclusive McCall’s pattern

McCall's 7726

Jade bi-stretch crease-resistant fabric £3.25 per metre, www.abakhan.co.uk

Metallic Hummingbird Romance £18 per metre, www.sewisfaction.co.uk

Navy Elder�ower Press £16 per metre, www.remnantkings.co.uk

Blue Moonstone viscose £17 per metre, www.fabricgodmother.co.uk

Turquoise washed stretch denim £12.90 per metre, www.dragon�yfabrics.co.uk

Nani Iro Encounter £28 per metre, www.drapersdaughter.com

‘Élan’ monochrome checked suiting fabric £12.95 per metre, www.clothspot.co.uk

Woven viscose dark red with big �owers £17.75 per metre, www.sto�stil.co.uk

ON THE FLY Wendy Gardiner, Brand Ambassador for The McCall Pattern Company, provides a simple step-by-step guide to inserting a fly front zip, perfect for your free McCalls pattern

A trouser zip is commonly known as a fly front zip or mock-fly zip. These are found on trousers, y d jeans and en W some skirts and are installed slightly differently to other zips but the insertion is easily achievable because much of the actual sewing is done on the underside of the garment. These zips traditionally lap right over left for a woman’s garment or left over right for men’s trousers. There will usually be a zip guard (zip shield) behind the zip to protect your underclothes and skin from the zip teeth and a fly facing. Most commercial patterns will include these as part of the main pattern pieces – shown as extensions at the zip opening part of the pattern. If your pattern doesn’t have one you can create your own shield by cutting a rectangle of fabric 10cm wide by the length of the zip WS opening. This tutorial will help expand on the steps in your pattern envelope and can be applied to different projects. Jut start with a zip that is 2-5cm longer than the zip opening. Follow these simple steps to master fly front zips and you will have professional looking trousers every time.

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Assemble the rest of your garment as you normally would, and set it to one side. Take your pattern piece and trace a copy – you’ll want to keep the original intact for future use.

Clip through both seam allowances to the stitching line at the zip end point. Neaten the raw edges of both fly extensions separately.

3 WS

Arrange so the legs and right extension are folded together, so the left extension is opened out as a single layer. Place zip RS down on the extension, butting the edge of the tape against the basted seam and with the zip end in line with the end stop.

With RST, machine-stitch the crotch curve seam from inseam (leg seam) to the zip end point and back-stitch to secure. Then increase stitch length to longest available and machine baste the centre front from the zip end point to the waistline.

Pin and machine-stitch in place following the line on your zipper tape. Use a zipper foot and sew from the zip stop to the top.

Fold the zip over so RS is upper most and the extension is folded back on itself and stitch again, this time from top to bottom, 3mm from the fold of fabric.

TECHNIQUE

Fold the zip over and let it settle where it falls naturally and then pin and stitch the unsewn side of the zip tape to the right front extension, keeping the garment fronts free. Note the zip is now attached to the extensions.

MASTERCLASS

QUICK ZIP FACTS

● Zips can have plastic, nylon or metal teeth mounted on a tape. They come in a range of colours, lengths and weights to suit di�erent fabric types. Fly-front zips are usually metal.

● Conventional zips have exposed teeth and are used for centred, lapped and �y front zip insertions. Concealed zips have coils that RS roll inwards and are hidden by the zip tape so aren’t suitable for this method. ● Closed-end zips have a bottom stop at one end and are used in dresses, skirts and trousers. Separating (openended) zips are used on front openings of jackets, cardigans and coats as they split open into two separate sections but it is possible to use both for a �y front if you create a new stop.

Flip the trousers over so the right extension is now a single layer.

Now �ip the garment over, RS uppermost and lay so the zip is �at below. Mark the bottom of the zip point from the RS and then draw your topstitching line 3cm from the basted seam, curving down below the zip point towards the seam in a nice smooth curve. Pin through the layers and then machine-stitch from the seam at the bottom, stitching slowly and curving up to the line parallel to the zip.

Unpick the basting stitches holding the zip seam together. Then press �y front zip towards the fold. You can now continue assembling your trousers.

When basting the zip seam, use the longest stitch length. Once sewn, snip into the basting stitches at the end and every 5cm – this will make it easier to remove the temporary stitching after the zip is inserted

RS Practise your skills

on the M7754 with its pretty scalloped waist

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We are suppliers of low cost, high quality materials from all over the world which can be used for a wide range of items such as textile fabrics, curtain linings, designer wear, arts and crafts fabric, and much more.

Tel: 02476 687776 www.online-fabrics.co.uk

Temptations Craft Boutique An Aladdin's cave full of fabrics including Cotton Poplins, Linens, Wool Tweeds & Polyesters 100% Cottons for Patchwork and Quilting Knitting yarn and haberdashery Courses and workshops Agents for Brother Sewing Machines Visit our shop or buy safely online 31 Main Street, Bentham, North Yorkshire, LA2 7HQ Tel: 015242 61868 www.temptationsbentham.co.uk For shop opening times please see our website

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INSPIRATION

Cherry-picked Stock up on lovely new fabric with these invaluable recommendations from some of our favourite fabric suppliers THREADERS

Lizzy

The Threaders brand by Crafter’s Companion includes a beautiful range of fabric made from 100% high-quality cotton ideal for curtain making, quilting, dressmaking and everyday projects. The range also offers tools and hardware. www.crafterscompanion.co.uk

MINERVA CRAFTS

Vicki

Minerva Crafts is your one-stop shop for dressmaking fabric, sewing patterns and haberdashery. It offers free UK delivery and returns so you can shop with confidence, and the website is full of inspiring projects! www.minervacrafts.com

Threaders Pretty Peacocks This peacockpatterned fabric is sure to add a touch of prettiness to all kinds of projects from bags to garments. £11.99 per metre

Floral viscose challis This soft and drapey viscose challis fabric has a delicate floral print and is perfect for sewing tops, blouses, skirts and dresses. £5.99 per metre

Threaders Raspberry Red The warm pink of this cotton fabric adds to the beauty of the intricate all-over patterns in this collection. £11.99 per metre

Jade Oriental Koi Fish cotton poplin Crisp and easy to sew, cotton poplin is such a versatile fabric. Think tops, skirts, dresses, shirts and more! £6.99 per metre

Threaders Pretty Flowers This floral fabric co-ordinates beautifully with the fabric in the range, and is perfect for accessories and home décor. £11.99 per metre

Art Gallery Fabrics Patches jersey knit This cotton spandex knit by Art Gallery Fabrics is fabulous quality! It’s medium weight with just the right amount of stretch and perfect for making tops, dresses and leggings. £22.99 per metre W WW.S EWNOWMAG.CO.U K

YOUR

FAB PATTERN

UTILITY

Use grosgrain ribbon for your tie belt

DRESS The perfect pull-over dress is here! With no closure, a simple elasticated waist and all-essential pockets, it’s easy to whip up in a day Photography RENATA STONYTE Model SIMONE for NEMESIS Hair and make-up NINA ROCHFORD for CREATIVES

Get the look

Floret Iris by Leah Duncan

Floret by Leah Duncan captures the e�ortless beauty of nature and celebrates the �ora found in her hometown of Austin, Texas £25.80 per metre

www.raystitch.co.uk

Simone is 5’9” and a size 12

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Carvela Shadow mid-heel sandals £39, www.houseo�raser.co.uk

Seasonal STYLE

Simple Sew bloggers!

HACK

Your Utility dress is the ideal all-season dress and perfect for sewing in a lightweight fabric as a beach cover-up or in a heavier weight over leggings for the autumn. Try our fabric picks below

On the lawn

Lawn is a super-smooth, lightweight fabric due to its tight weave and high cotton thread count. Ideal for summer, this striking print would make a stunning day to night holiday dress.

Scarlet Brushstroke Lawn, £14.99 per metre www.remnantkings.co.uk

Contrast

Mustard denim, £6 per half metre www.fabricgodmother.co.uk

Use two-tone coloured denim to create a mediumweight autumn style. Try using the reverse of the fabric for the pocket bags or waistband, or make your own bias tape for a soft contrast.

Smooth viscose

Javanaise viscose has a smooth �nish, but is extremely lightweight with a more open weave than cotton lawn. Commonly found on the high street, it’s used mostly for tops, blouses and dresses. As it frays easily, use a French seam for best results.

Bright Red Sailing Boat Javanaise viscose, £5.99 per metre www.abakhan.co.uk

A quick hack can add new life to a simple pattern and Jenny of Wardrobe Architects has created a button-down front for the bodice of the Utility dress to allow her to breastfeed. Her favourite detail was the elasticated back waistband with drawstring at the front that meant getting a great �t on the waistline. www.simplesewblog. com/the-wardrobearchitects-utilitydress

Steal Jenny’s style

Spots On Blue cotton chambray, £7.99 per metre www.doughtysonline.co.uk

This beautiful chambray has a white yarn in the weft and a blue in the warp and is woven in a twill construction

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INSPIRATION

Earrings, £12

Wear it with... Complement this issue’s pattern with ﬁnds from some of our favourite high-street stores

Necklace, £8

Jacket, £45 Bag, £30

Sunglasses, £12

ACCESSORIZE uk.accessorize.com SIMPLY BE www.simplybe.co.uk

Sandals, £25

Bag, £15

Sandals, £25

Earrings, £12.50 Cardigan, £65

WHITE STUFF www.whitestuﬀ.com

Sunglasses, £65

HOBBS www.hobbs.co.uk

Cardigan, £39.95

Shoes, £29.95

Sandals, £139

Bag, £59.95 Bag, £179

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The Brighton Sewing Retreat 19th, 20th & 21st September 2018

Three days of sewing, relaxing & socialising at the fantastic Jurys Inn Waterfront Hotel in Brighton. We will be creating a sewing space in a light & airy room which looks out over the sea, perfect for you to make a project of your choice. Claire Tyler will be on hand to help with lots of tips & techniques as well as giving demonstrations and masterclasses. We are delighted that Frances Tobin of The Maker's Atelier will be joining us as guest speaker. Refreshments & a buffet lunch will be provided each day and if you choose to stay at the Hotel there will be a discount on the room rates.

For more information visit www.claire-tyler.com/the-brighton-sewing-retreat.html

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FEATURE

Hardware store

haberdashery

Ashley

Ashley Cramp, the voice behind colourful and creative blog Lazy Daisy Jones, shares her ingenious hardware ﬁnds for simple sewing room solutions 1

hese are �ve tools you may not know existed, and you will not �nd any of them in your local haberdashery. Oh no, these are real tools from a DIY tradesman’s superstore. How do I know? I recently accompanied my man on a visit to a tool store. He restores engines and metal things as a hobby and needed some bits and pieces. Left alone to amuse myself, I was fascinated to see how many of these tools could actually be used in my sewing room. 1 SET OF THREE MAGNETIC DISHES O�cial use: For collecting nuts and bolts when an engine is stripped down. They are strong with lots of room. Crafty use: In my sewing room they hold pins and needles but also sewing feet! They cling to my ironing board and never fall o�. If you feel the colours are too bright, they're available as a single stainless steel dish but, best of all, a set of three costs under £7! 2 WOODEN ROLLER O�cial use: A wallpaper accessory when decorating. Funnily enough, it’s called a seam roller and would be used to smooth out joins when hanging wallpaper. Crafty use: In my sewing room I use it for pressing seams open when sewing a tailored garment or when working with leather. It’s a lovely quality wooden tool and only costs £3.71. 3 PLASTIC STORAGE BOX O�cial use: Storing screws and nuts and bolts. Crafty use: A perfect portable size for packing up your sewing must haves, perhaps when attending a sewing class or visiting a friend for an afternoon sewing session. It's a bargain at £3.15.

4 FOLDING 1M PLASTIC RULER O�cial use: Standard toolbox-sized ruler. Crafty use: Handy for measuring accurate hems while not taking up too much space, and it only costs £3.25. 5 MY LATEST DISCOVERY Do you �nd you are at one end of the room or your sewing desk and your scissors are at the other? I used to, but now I put them in my tool belt and keep them close and my pencil and fabric marker are usually kept in there too. It’s a handy accessory if you are a sewing teacher; when I teach a class I frequently lose my scissors. Priced from £7.

FOR MORE OF ASHLEY’S CLEVER TIPS, AS WELL AS OODLES OF INSPIRATION, HEAD TO WWW.LAZYDAISYJONES.COM 26

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Meet your match

Find the perfect sewing pattern, fabric and haberdashery using your exclusive 20% discount from Dragonﬂy Fabrics

Waterlilies quilted cotton jersey, £17.80 per metre

Small Flower Indigo Japanese cotton print, £14.50 per metre

Navy and mustard viscose jersey abstract, £9.80 per metre

Lady McElroy Cobra Corsage cotton lawn, £14.90 per metre

Art Gallery Fabrics Nightfall Moon Stories Spark knit, £22.50 per metre

Boiled wool ochre, £34 per metre

SAVE 20% at Dragonﬂy Fabrics

Use the code SEWNOW20. Head to www.dragonﬂyfabrics.co.uk to browse the range* Indigo cotton stretch boucle, £11.80 per metre

Bubbles maroon viscose, £9.80 per metre

*O�er valid between 16th August and 20th September 2018.

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fall fillers As the colder months creep in, we recommend our favourite patterns for the season ahead

Wear the trousers

Classic tailoring just got a lot more achievable thanks to this neatly finished trouser pattern from Closet Case Patterns. The Sasha trousers will give you a figure-hugging finish while remaining comfy to wear thanks to the mid-rise waistband and suitability to stretchy fabric. Choose a sleek cropped version or the fulllength trouser with pockets, both include optional belt loops. Available in UK sizes 4-24, printed pattern $18 (approximately £13.83) www.store.closetcase patterns.com

RETURN OF THE MAC

Come rain or shine, you’ll be reaching for this chic trench coat from Named Patterns year after year. The Isla trench coat has lots of classic features to keep you looking timelessly stylish; it includes a lined cape on the shoulders, belted waist and flattering welt pockets. Available in UK sizes 4-18, PDF pattern priced at €16 (approximately £14.29) from www.namedclothing.com

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DON’T SWEAT IT

Layer up with this pretty Zebre sweatshirt from I Am Patterns. This pattern offers a modern interpretation of the classic sweatshirt with its oversized butterfly sleeves which are enhanced by long, fitted cuffs. Additionally, there are three snap fasteners positioned on the left shoulder which open and close. Available in UK sizes 8-18, PDF pattern is €15 (approximately £13.37) from www.iampatterns.fr

PATTERN PICKS

Jump to it!

THE A TEAM

If you’re eager to master sophisticated and elegant style then this stunning A-line dress from The Avid Seamstress warrants a place on your to-make list. With a fitted bodice atop a floaty skirt paired with loose sleeves and a feminine V-neck, this dress is the epitome of timeless style. There are two lengths to choose from and the option of adding inner pockets to give you a flattering silhouette. Available in UK sizes 6-22, printed pattern is £16.50 from www.theavidseam stress.co.uk

Earn your stripes

A classic knit T-shirt is a true wardrobe staple and the Concord T-shirt pattern from Cashmerette is a great fit. There are three variations to choose from, allowing you to pick your preferred sleeve and hem length and neckline style. Add some pretty details with the optional sleeve tabs and pair with your favourite jeans for a top that will take you from day to night! Available in UK sizes 16-32, printed pattern $18 (approximately £13.83) from www.cashmerette.com

This new all-in one Yari jumpsuit from True Bias will keep you looking stylish from head to toe, and with four options to choose from it’s a pattern you can adapt for any season. There are lots of lovely details to flatter your figure and give this jumpsuit a feminine look, including angled patch pockets set into princess seams and a chic V-neckline. You can choose to make yours with or without sleeves and opt for a short or full-length tapered trouser finishing just above the ankle. Available in UK sizes 4-22, the paper pattern is priced at $18 (approximately £13.82) from shop.truebias.com

LOOK SHARP

Boost your office wardrobe with this extra-sharp pencil skirt pattern from Oliver + S. Featuring flattering side panels, back yoke detail and back walk vent, this skirt is designed to be both super stylish and comfortable to move in. There are two styles available, one finishing just above the knee and the other slightly longer with flattering bias-cut side panels. Available in UK sizes 4-24, paper pattern priced at $12.95 (approximately £9.94) from www.oliverands.com

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Use your template download

STELLA

bias-trim

TOP

This pattern is a great introduction into being creative with bias binding and encourages you to practise your technique with homemade or shop-bought bias, as well as select striking colour combinations Project MARILLA WALKER www.marillawalker.com Photography RENATA STONYTE

Marilla

Make it shine

Metallic lurex bias binding 95p per metre

www.ontrendfabrics.co.uk

ACCESSORY SKILL LEVEL: MATERIALS: • 1.1m lightweight fabric – crepe, cotton or linen • 3.5m 20mm-wide bias binding • hook & eye fastening • co-ordinating thread • templates downloaded from www.sewnowmag.co.uk

CUTTING

HOW TO MAKE: Stay-stitch the front and back necklines with a long straight stitch approximately 0.5cm away from the fabric edge to keep it from stretching out of shape.

Cut a small bias strip from the main fabric long enough to bind the keyhole shape on the back neck (you can use shopbought bias tape if you’d rather). The bias strip must be 3.5cm wide. Fold and press your bias strip to make double-fold tape.

Machine top-stitch close to the edge of the bias binding, remove the basting stitches and press.

Cut two bias strips the same length as the centre front strip. Bind the two centre front bodice edges with the bias tape as before and press.

Neaten the edges of the centre front strip with a zigzag stitch and pin to the

Line the second front bodice piece up along the centre front strip so that the bias tape meets in the middle and pin. Top-stitch from the front as before. (See Pic B.)

Cover the raw edge of the keyhole back opening with the bias strip. Ease the strip into place around the curve so that everything lies nice and flat and baste in place with some hand stitching.

WS of one of the top fronts. Line up the fabric edge with the bias tape edge. Topstitch in place from the front and follow the original stitching line. (See Pic A.)

With RST sew the shoulder seams connecting front and back. Press seam and finish the edge with a zigzag.

Bind the neckline. Hand-baste the binding to the neckline as before and neaten the ends of the back opening by tucking the edges under on the inside of the top. (See Pic C.) Top-stitch, remove basting stitches and press.

10 11

Sew the side seams with RST and finish edge with a zigzag stitch.

To prepare the sleeve for setting in, sew a line of long straight stitches along the sleeve cap between the notches. These stitches should be approximately 0.75cm away from the fabric edge and will help you to ease the sleeve into position.

SIZING 10

Bust

31-32”

33-35”

36-37”

38-39”

40-42”

43-44”

45-46”

47-49”

Waist

24-25”

26-28”

29-30”

31-32”

33-35”

36-37”

38-39”

40-42”

Hips

34-35”

36-37”

38-39”

40-42”

43-44”

45-46”

47-49”

49-51”

Height

66”

Next sew the sleeve seams and finish with a zigzag stitch. Bind the bottom edges of the sleeves as you have done before. Where the binding meets at the seam fold the edge under neatly and overlap the start of the binding slightly. (See Pic D.) Hand-baste in place before top-stitching.

Pin the sleeve in matching the notches and pull the ease stitch lightly until the sleeve head fits nicely. Smooth it out and pin and wrap the loose threads of the ease stitch around a pin to secure it in place. Hand-baste (if you prefer) and sew.

Finish the bottom hem of the top. Fold a double 1cm hem. Pin, press and then machine-stitch close to the pressed edge.

Make a bow to cover the closure on the back neck opening. Cut two bias strips approximately 22cm and 7cm long. Fold the strips in half lengthways so that all raw edges are enclosed and sew shut close to the pressed edge.

Take the longer strip and cross the two ends over one another to make a bow shape. Secure with a few small stitches. Wrap the smaller strip around the bow and trim excess of the back leaving a small amount to fold under and stitch down neatly with some small hand stitches. Trim the tails of the bow to your preferred length.

Hand-sew a hook and eye fastening onto the back neck of the top and sew the bow onto the RS to hide the fastening. W WW.S EWNOWMAG.CO.U K

GO RETRO

ch HAL al F-YA le RD ng e

Start your day with a smile by mixing and matching fun retro fabric prints that are sure to bring your breakfast table to life Project DEBBIE VON GRABLER-CROZIER Photography RENATA STONYTE

Debbie

ch HAL al F-YA le RD ng e

Reversible bento

bread basket

This makes a small container perfect for morning rolls. To make a larger one, increase the starting square to 60cm

Lorna

ACCESSORY

SKILL LEVEL: MATERIALS • fat quarter outer fabric • fat quarter lining fabric NOTES: Seam allowance is 0.5cm for all projects unless otherwise stated HOW TO MAKE : Cut four triangles, two from outer fabric and two from lining. These need to be right-angle triangles – the adjacent is 50cm and the opposite is 50cm and the hypotenuse 70cm. The easiest way to cut the triangles is to square the fat quarter o� at 50cm and divide it in half diagonally.

Take an outer and a lining triangle and place right sides together. Sew around the outside, leaving a turning gap.

Clip across the corners and turn out through the gap. Press so that the edges are perfect. Repeat for the other two pieces. Poke out the corner points.

4 5

Next lay your two triangles on top of one another. (See Pic A.)

Sew from the point of the top triangle across to the point of the

bottom triangle, which sits underneath. This vertical seam forms the base. (See Pic B.) (see print out – just add line to image A)

6 7

Top-stitch around of both triangles to close the gaps, and decorate.

With the bag right side out, sew up the side seams from the bottom edge to the tip on both sides. (See Pic C.)

Measure 4cm in from the corner on two sides and draw a line. (See Pic D.) Sew along this line and trim – this will a French seam, so trim back to about half a normal seam allowance. (See Pic E.)

Repeat for the other side and turn the bag inside out. Finger-press to crease and sew a normal seam across. (See Pic F.) Repeat for the other side to enclose seam. W WW.S EWNOWMAG.CO.U K

ch HAL al F-YA le RD ng e

Patchwork

table runner

Use your template download

SKILL LEVEL: MATERIALS: • 35cm strip retro kitchen-print fabric (Fabric A) • 35cm strip Steel Blue fabric (Fabric B) • 80cm strip retro kitchen-print fabric (Fabric C) • 35cm strip cream fabric (Fabric D) • fat quarter light purple binding fabric (Fabric E) • 1.65x45cm Vlieseline #279 80/20 cotton-mix wadding NOTES: Seam allowance is 0.5cm for all projects

WWW.SEWNOWMAG.CO.UK

unless otherwise stated. There are two quilting blocks to this runner – a three-bar block and drunkard’s path corner block

From Fabric C, cut: 8 5x14cm rectangles 45x1.65m for backing

CUTTING: From Fabric A, cut: 8 curved pieces using Template 1 2 14cm squares for the middle sections 39cm square for runner centre block 2 8x39cm rectangles for the ends

From Fabric D, cut: 8 4.5x14cm rectangles 2 10x39cm rectangles for the ends

From Fabric B, cut: 8 15.5cm squares for the drunkard’s path corners 8 6.5x14cm rectangles 2 8x39cm rectangles for the ends

HOW TO MAKE: Begin with the four curved corners. Trace Template 2 onto a piece of thin card, like a cereal packet, to make it easier to trace around.

From Fabric E, cut: 4.3m for binding

ACCESSORY

When you pin, crease the centre of the curved ‘pie’ piece and the ‘L’ piece and match those two creases, pin the two ends perfectly and then gently fit the curves

Take a square of Fabric B and trace around Template 2 onto the square. (See Pic A.) Cut out. (See Pic B.) Use the piece that you cut from Fabric A to fill the space. Pin well along the curve. (See Pic C.) Sew the curve pulling the pins out as you go.

3 4

Flatten the pieces out and press. (See Pic D.) Trim.

Repeat for the other seven pieces. Trim to 14cm square. Although it may seem like you’re trimming a lot from the edges, this will give a nice neat finish.

Assemble the three-bar block with Fabric B on top, Fabric C in the middle and Fabric D on the bottom.

Assemble the rows as follows: Row 1 – 1 drunkard’s corner, 1 three bar, 1 drunkard’s corner (See Pic E.) Row 2 - 1 three bar, 1 plain centre, 1 three bar (See Pic F.) Row 3 – Repeat Row 1 (See Pic G.)

Note: The fabric in the pieces may not all be aligned the same way.

7 8

Make another of these blocks and join together with the plain piece in the centre.

The two ends are simple the three strips joined together starting with Fabric D, the Fabric A and finally Fabric B. Join to the ends of the three centre blocks.

Lay the backing face down and the wadding on top. Put the pressed, pieced panel on the next (face up) and pin.

Quilt with your favourite design. I like a random wavy design worked on the diagonal. It is super easy to do on your machine at home too.

11 12

Using an object such as a teacup and round the corners of the runner.

Making the bias binding by cutting 3.5cm-wide strips on the bias and then join them together to form a long strip. Fold in half lengthways and press and then fold the raw edges in and press them too. A bias tape maker will make this easier.

Sewing a table runner is a great way to gain confidence before tackling a larger project. For the curves on the drunkard’s path, pin well and take your time when stitching

Sew on the bias by opening the fold and aligning the raw edges of the tape and runner edge. Stitch in the ditch, fold the tape over and either top-stitch neatly through both layers or sew by hand on the opposite side of the tape.

Debbie W WW.S EWNOWMAG.CO.U K

ch HAL al F-YA le RD ng e

Potholders

Mix things up by swapping the front and back fabric and bind in co-ordinating binding

Sam 38

WWW.SEWNOWMAG.CO.UK

SKILL LEVEL: MATERIALS: • fat quarter for front of potholder • fat quarter for reverse of potholder • fat quarter co-ordinating fabric for binding • fat quarter co-ordinating fabric for second binding • fat quarter Vlieseline #279 80/20 cotton-mix wadding • small piece of tan leather • leather hole punch • 2 brass Chicago screws • stamp • Jet Black Ranger Archival Ink

• Sizzix Originals Ovals #3 dies • Sizzix Big Shot manual die-cutting machine NOTES: Seam allowance is 0.5cm for all projects unless otherwise stated CUTTING: From the first (eggcup) print, cut: 14cm high x 17cm wide piece for the front 17cm wide x 20cm high piece for back (this is the section you will see) 17cm high x 20cm wide piece for lining of the front of the second one* 20cm wide x 23cm high piece for lining of the back of the second one*

ACCESSORY

From the second (fried egg) print, cut: Exactly as above From the co-ordinating fabric, cut: 17cm 4cm-wide straight binding from each 80cm bias binding from each From the wadding, cut: 2 17cm high x 20cm pieces for the fronts* 2 20cm wide x 23cm high pieces for the backs* *these values are approximate and as long as they are about 2cm larger all around than the fronts, they will work. HOW TO MAKE: Make the straight binding and follow 12 of the table runner to make the bias binding.

Use your walking foot for the quilting and note that when the layers (top, wadding and lining (backing) are put together, the lining and the wadding are larger than the top. The top is the actual size needed and the other two will be trimmed back

To make the label, die-cut two of the largest ovals. If you do not have a diecutting machine you can trace around something oval or choose any shape.

3 4

Get the look

Stamp with your chosen motif. (See Pic A.)

Cut 2x12cm hanging tabs from the leather. Measure the width of the shank on the Chicago screws and then punch a hole in each end to match.

Florametry

Flock in Poppy

Kitsch Kitchen in Orange

Chicken Wire in Poppy

Egg Cups in Peachy

Fried Eggs Sweet Orange

Take the front of one potholder, the piece of wadding cut for that part and the lining piece. Make a quilt sandwich and then quilt with a straight grid pattern with lines about 2.5cm apart. (See Pic B.)

Trim the front and round the bottom corners with a glass or similar object. Bind the top edge. (See pics B and C.)

7 8

Sew the label onto the front. (See Pic D.)

Make the back the same as the front then round all four corners this time. Lay the bound front onto the back and baste together on the sides and bottom.

Bind the whole edge by following Step 13 of the table runner project. Attach the leather hanging loop using the Chicago screw. (See Pic E.) Repeat for the other potholder.

All fabric is from the Welsummer collection by Kimberly Kight for Cotton + Steel From ÂŁ3.75 per FQ

www.thecraftymastermind.co.uk

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Très chic!

DEER&DOE We chatted to Éléonore and Camille, the duo behind the French pattern house, about their creative process

here's no denying the appeal of chic French fashion, and Deer&Doe is helping deliver this to sewing enthusiasts with its line of gorgeous patterns. Éléonore, I’m sure our readers would love to know what inspired you to create and sell patterns. How did it all start? E French sewists mostly used patterns from Burda magazines, with their cryptic instructions and hit-or-miss styling. After I started my first job as a computer engineer, I discovered the world of US independent sewing patterns, and it was a revelation. It turned my view of sewing upside down, and I felt the need to share this with others, especially in France where indie patterns didn’t really exist at the time. So I left my programming job, I taught myself pattern making, and I created Deer&Doe!

Éléonore My favourite is the Brume skirt. I like its modern style and interesting details, plus there’s nothing like knits in terms of comfort!

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Camille, you’re an avid blogger. How would you describe the sewing scene in France compared to America where you now live? C What surprised me the most when I moved to the US is how common sewing is here, and how experienced most sewists are. While it’s more of a niche hobby in France, in the US highschoolers still have sewing classes, and these skills are passed on from one generation to the next. As a result, US sewists are much more demanding when it comes to fit adjustments and construction techniques. On the other hand, French sewists tend to be more fashion-forward. And even the average height and body

types are different! This makes our work at Deer&Doe very interesting: we have to outdo ourselves continuously to create patterns that meet sewists’ demands all over the world.

"Nothing can replace the energy boost we get when we plan our next projects together!" Logistically how does it work with you both being so far apart? Do you both work from home and use Skype a lot? E We both work from home, but Camille comes to France for a couple months about twice a year so we can work face-to-face. No amount of Skype can replace the energy boost we get when we plan our next projects together over lunch! Otherwise we have video calls several times a week, and we use Slack (a chat system) to communicate between us and with our pattern testers who are also in different time zones. C The time difference also has its advantages. We only have a few hours of overlap, so we have to be super efficient when we need to work together on something, but at the same time it ensures that there’s almost always one of us available if there’s a problem to deal with.

INTERVIEW

Say hello on Instagram deer_and_doe_ patterns and visit www.deer-anddoe.com to ﬁnd out more!

Deer&Doe patterns feature French & English instructions

Camille

The pattern we’re the most proud of is de�nitely the Luzerne trench coat! This is the most advanced pattern we’ve released and we’ve spent hours perfecting the �t and the construction. It’s our masterpiece!

What’s your favourite part of your day-to-day business? C Our tasks can change a lot from one day to the next, but the best moments are when we can let our imaginations run wild and brainstorm about the next patterns or large scale projects for the year. On a more daily basis, Éléonore loves anything that is creative: selecting fabric for blog posts, picking out outfits for the photoshoots... And I’m a real project management nerd, so my favourite part of the day is organising all our tasks in Trello (a task management application)! How does your design process work, from inspiration to pattern? E At the start of each season, I spend some time thinking about our needs and studying the trends for the following season. I find a few leads, sketch some silhouettes, then I keep these ideas in the back of my mind for a while, until inspiration strikes. It’s important to give yourself enough room to be able to be creative. I don’t like to have too many constraints! After I decide on a sketch, I draft the pattern and Camille and I start

Camille likes to plan her projects using charming sketches

making muslins, tweaking the pattern and improving the fit until we validate it. We write a basic list of sewing instructions that we send to our pattern testers along with the pattern, then we repeat the same process, taking into account their feedback to improve the instructions and the construction of the garment. Once the pattern is finalised, we write the final instructions and create all the technical illustrations. Adding PDF patterns in your shop in a wide range of sizes has been a huge success! Did you imagine your patterns would reach such an international audience? E I had planned Deer&Doe as an international brand from the start, for instance using standard seam allowances and translating the patterns to English early on. However there were a lot of cultural specificities I wasn’t aware of when I started: differences in size ranges between countries, precision expectations for instruction booklets, or communication styles. Camille coming on board has been a great help with this, as she is immersed in US culture. WW WW.S W.S EWNOWMAG.CO.U K

Vera WRAP SKIRT

This easy-to-wear wrap skirt has topstitch detailing and curved border hem. An optional bound pocket adds a professional finishing touch Project FIONA HESFORD Sewgirl Photography DAN WALMSLEY

Fiona

Why not try

Emerald 7.5oz premium slub stretch denim

This woven, mid-weight denim available in 10 colours has a slight stretch slight, making it comfortable for all seasons ÂŁ9.90 per metre

www.empressmills.co.uk

Use your template download

ACCESSORY

SKILL LEVEL: MATERIALS: • 1.3m 150cm-wide fabric (non-stretch) • 30cm ultrasoft interfacing • stitch & tear stabiliser (optional) • 2 2cm buttons • contrast topstitching thread • co-ordinating thread • spray starch (optional) • denim needle CUTTING: Cut 3m of bias binding (or use shop bought) Cut one of each for pocket templates A and B

With the RST join the interfaced waistband pieces at short sides with a 1cm seam so you have one long strip. With WST press exactly in half lengthways, then fold and press over 1cm along one long edge. TOP-STITCHING THE SKIRT AND WAISTBAND Sew a line of stitching in the co-ordinating thread 1cm from the raw edge all around the lower curved edge of the skirt fronts and back pieces and along one unfolded long edge of the waistband.

4 5

Thread your needle with your chosen topstitching thread, without adjusting your bobbin. Adjust your tension to 5 and stitch length to 2.8. If possible adjust your needle position to the far right of the foot.

6 HOW TO MAKE: SKIRT ASSEMBLY With skirt fronts and back RST, join at side seams with 1cm seam allowance. Finish raw edges and press open. (See Pic A.)

Create a welt pocket on the RS (as it faces you) skirt front using this easyto-follow tutorial at www.craftsy.com/ sewing/article/how-to-sew-doublewelt-pockets. (See Pic B.)

Using the co-ordinating line of stitching as a guide, sew four lines of topstitching 6mm apart from each other around the lower edge of the skirt piece. (See Pic C.) Sew four lines on the waistband piece. (See Pic D.) If used, remove any tearaway stabiliser. ATTACHING THE SKIRT BINDING Spray with starch if preferred and press over 1cm along one edge.

7 8

With RST pin the unfolded edge of the binding to the lower edge of the skirt. Sew a 1cm seam so it sits on top of the guide you used for topstitching and lightly stretch the binding as you go.

Notch the curved edge of the seam allowance with small triangular cuts and fold the binding to the reverse. Press so the seam line is hidden at the outer edge.

Pin all around then machine-stitch on the reverse, matching the fold to the previous line of stitching, or handstitch all around with a slip stitch. ATTACHING THE WAISTBAND With RST pin the raw edge of the topstitched side of the waistband to the skirt upper edge, matching side seams. There should be a small overhang at each far end. Stitch a 1cm seam all around. Press the seam allowance upwards, ditch stitch on the RS along the seam line. (See Pic E.)

Fold the waistband in half lengthways RST and sew down each short end in line with the finished skirt edge. (See Pic F.) Trim excess seam allowance and clip the top corners. Turn the waistband to the RS, push out the corners and press.

On the inside tuck under the raw edges, pin and secure the waistband with hand stitching.

Sew a buttonhole at each end of the waistband. Try the skirt on and mark the position of the buttons. Place one on the WS of the waistband at the right-hand side when worn and one on the RS at the left-hand side. W WW.S EWNOWMAG.CO.U K

N Th m o.1 e U ag se K a z w i ’s in ng e

BECOME A

wardrobe winner The UK's No.1 sewing mag

Simply

FAB GIFTS

Incedible

SIZE RANGE Make a classic button down shirt in your fave prints

£18 ISSUE 57

ARTICLES, PROJECTS & GUIDES:

Contents and gift subject to change *Template sheet features magazine project patterns

WORTH OVER *

8-24

Inspiring Behind the scenes at the Stitcher's Brew podcast Sew a pretty polka dot handbag Kerry Green's fun patchwork tote

Don’t miss!

ON SALE

23RD AUG

Why not make Kerry Green’s sunny patchwork tote!

Order your copy today at www.moremags.com/ls57

Request your free fabric catalogue today!

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Visit wildolive. blogspot.com to download the happy hexie templates

Happy

HEXIE BAG Mollie

This quilted shoulder tote combines a little bit of hand and machine sewing. Its long strap allows you to wear it across your body so you can carry your love of English paper piecing with you! Project MOLLIE JOHANSON

SKILL LEVEL: MATERIALS: • fabric scraps (enough to make 32 1” hexagons) • 50cm linen • 50cm quilting cotton • 50cm wadding • 1.3m medium-weight fusible interfacing • 1.3m Perle cotton • freezer paper • 2 D-rings • 2 swivel clasps • magnetic snap • rotary cutter/mat/ruler (optional) pins • disappearing ink marker • sewing machine NOTES: A ¼” seam allowance has been used throughout, unless otherwise stated

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CUTTING: From freezer paper, cut: 32 1” hexagons From scrap fabrics, cut: 32 1” hexagons From linen, cut: 13x4¾” rectangle 13x8½” rectangle 13x18” rectangle From quilting cotton, cut: 2 13x18” rectangles 2 2½x4” rectangles 2½x40” rectangle From wadding, cut: 2 13x18” rectangles From interfacing, cut: 2 2x4” rectangles 2x40” rectangle HOW TO MAKE: Baste the 32 English paper-pieced hexagons. Arrange the hexagons with flat edges pointing up, forming nine columns that alternate with four hexagons, then three hexagons, and so

on, ending with a column of four. Join all of the pieces with tiny whipstitches or running stitch.

Press the hexagon panel, then remove the paper pieces. Trim the panel to a form a 13x5¼” rectangle. Sew the two smaller linen pieces onto the hexagon panel. Press the seams towards the linen.

Quilt the sides. Pin the large linen rectangle and the pieced front onto the wadding pieces. Using a disappearing ink marker, trace around 1” hexagon templates to make groupings of one to three hexagons spaced throughout the linen sides of the bag. Use running stitch with Perle cotton to hand-quilt the hexagons. Sew a line of running stitch along the top and bottom of the pieced hexagon panel.

Make the tabs. Iron the small interfacing pieces to the

For an in-depth tutorial on creating adjustable shoulder straps, check out www.thepurseworks.co.uk

ACCESSORY

Easy as...

EPP

Iron a hexie onto the WS of the fabric patches in the centre. Trim around the hexagon, leaving approximately ¼” seam allowance.

Fold the fabric over the hexagon paper, one edge at a time, tacking in place as you go.

Once all the hexagons are tacked, slip-stitch them together to form a line. Press. centre of the small quilting cotton pieces. Press the long edges in by ¼”, then fold and press the edges in to meet in the middle. Sew along the centre about 1⁄8” from the middle.

Working through the opening in the lining and following the manufacturer’s instructions, attach the two snap sides at the centre of the bag. Sew the opening in the lining closed using ladder stitch. Top-stitch the top of the bag using running stitch and Perle cotton.

Fold each tab in half and slide on a D-ring. Pin and sew a tab along the top right edge of each of the bag outside pieces, with the raw edges matching and using a 1⁄8” seam allowance. With right sides facing, pin and sew each quiltingcotton lining piece to the top of each outside piece. Join the bag sides. Pin outside to outside and lining to lining, then sew around the large rectangle, leaving a 4” opening for turning.

Iron the long interfacing strip to the centre of the long quilting cotton strip. Press the long edges in by ¼”, then fold and press the edges in to meet in the middle. Sew along the centre about 1⁄8” from the middle. Slide a swivel clip onto one end, then fold the end over ¼” and fold it over again 1”. Sew the folded piece down securely. Repeat with the other end. Clip the strap onto the D-rings. W WW.S EWNOWMAG.CO.U K

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Sheffield’s newest independent sewing •S ervicing and repairs on all makes and store. We stock a wide range of fabrics, models of sewing machines from £40 QN34.P40.indd 42 Michael Miller, Riley Blake and including • Local agent for Brother and Juki machines Tula Pink. We also offer classes in a • Fabrics library and sewing accessories variety of crafts. • Friendly, knowledgeable service 1a Arundel Road Sheffield 1 The Broadway, S35 2RB Brighton Road 0114 2455996 Worthing, handmadehappyhare BN11 3EG @yahoo.co.uk

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Perfectly planted

CUSHION

Use your template download

This cushion would make a blooming lovely addition to any household. Personalise your cushion with your fabric choices Project FIONA HESFORD Sewgirl Photography TYM LECKEY

SKILL LEVEL:

Great scrapbusting project

MATERIALS: • 2 50cm-square pieces canvas/heavy weight cotton or linen (background) • 50cm continuous zipping and one pull, in matching colour to background • 50x10cm floral cotton fabric (shelf) • 2 12cm-square pieces of different grey sketch fabric (vases) • 2 20x10cm pieces green cotton spot fabric (cactus & plant) • 15cm-square piece red stripe cotton fabric (tulip vase) • 5x20cm piece red cotton fabric (tulips) • 30cm red & white trimming or rickrack • 25cm bonding web • darning foot attachment (if using free-motion embroidery) • templates downloaded from www.sewnowmag.co.uk NOTES: This tutorial makes a 45cm-square cushion If you prefer not to use continuous zipping use a 40cm zipper HOW TO MAKE: Place the long floral fabric strip at the lower edge of one of the cushion pieces. Pin then stitch all around close to the outer edges. (See Pic A.)

Trace the outline of the vases, plant, cactus, tulip and stems on to the paper side of the bonding web with a pencil.

Bond each shape with a hot iron to the reverse side of their respective fabric colour. Trim around each shape, following the pencil line. (See Pic B.)

4 Fiona

Peel off the paper backing. Place in positon on the cushion front piece, using the picture as a guide. Press carefully to fix in position using an iron, ready for top-stitching. (See Pic C.)

HOME

Attach a darning foot to the sewing machine and thread up with dark grey or black thread. With the feed dog on the machine lowered, use freemotion embroidery stitch technique to emphasise each shape with a line of stitching close to the edge. (See Pic D.)

the top raw edge of the cushion with the zip pull positioned away from the cushion.

Alternatively stitch around each shape with hand embroidery using small running stitches or sew on your machine.

Stitch or glue ribbon trimming to the centre vase in three small strips. (See Pic E.)

Using a double-threaded needle, hand-sew the cactus spikes in black thread. Mimic the little v shapes in places as shown on our example. (See Pic F.)

Place the front cushion piece on a table RS facing up. Pin the zip RS down on to

Tack-stitch then machine-sew using the zip foot attachment. Repeat for back piece with other edge of zip. Press zip flat on WS. Top-stitch on RS close to edge. (See Pic G.) Slide the zip pull into the cushion about halfway across.

Fold the cushion pieces with RST then pin the three unsewn sides. (See Pic H.) Sew a 1.5cm seam all around. Go carefully when you stitch across the zip at each far end as the bulk could damage your needle. Finish the raw edges. Trim across the corners. (See Pic I.)

Turn the cushion to the RS through the zip opening. Push out the corners and press. Fill with a 45cmsquare cushion pad to complete. W WW.S EWNOWMAG.CO.U K

Discounts giveaways Lovely sewing goodies and patterns to win, plus generous discounts to help fill your fabric stash WIN A COPY OF YOU AND YOUR SEWING MACHINE

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Elephant

SCHOOL SATCHEL Perfect for kids, this oilcloth bag keeps the contents dry in wet weather, is wipe clean and durable for everyday use Project LOUISE AMBROSI Sew Sofia Photography AMY WORRALL

Louise

SKILL LEVEL:

WORKING WITH LAMINATED COTTON:

l Pins will leave holes, so either pin in the seam allowance or use wonder clips l Do not iron the coated side! Finger-press any seams before top-stitching. You can iron the back of laminated cotton on a low setting to remove any creases l A walking foot or Teflon foot can help with topstitching l A size 14-16 denim needle is recommended l Sew using a longer stitch and go slow on the pedal!

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MATERIALS: 0.5m laminated cotton • 0.75m co-ordinating cotton for lining • 0.5m cotton for straps • 0.5m sew-in fleece (eg Thermolam Compressed Fleece Vlieseline 272) • 1m medium standard iron-on interfacing (eg Vlieseline 304) • 0.25m Peltex Pellon 71F Single Sided Fusible Stabilizer (optional, for short handle & bag base) • 1” D-ring • 2 1” triangular rings (or D-rings) • 2 1” swivel snap hooks • 2 1” sliders • 18mm magnetic snap NOTES: Finished measurements are 14” (w) x 10” (h) x 2” (d) (35cm x 25cm x 5cm)

CUTTING: Cut 3 15x11” rectangles in main fabric, lining, fleece and interfacing (body and flap pieces) Cut 2 15x9” rectangles in main fabric and lining (pockets) Cut 1 16x3” strip and 2 12x3” rectangles in main fabric (if using directional print) or 1 36.5x3” strip; and 1 36.5x3” strip in lining fabric, interfacing and fleece (gusset) Cut 1 44x4” rectangle in contrasting cotton and interfacing (shoulder strap) Cut 1 13x4” rectangle in contrasting cotton and interfacing (optional) (flap handle) Cut 1 7x4” rectangle in contrasting cotton and interfacing (keyring loop) Cut 1 9x1” Peltex Pellon (optional) (flap handle stabiliser) Cut 1 13x2” Peltex Pellon (optional) (base stabiliser)

ACCESSORY HOW TO MAKE: Iron interfacing onto all lining and strap pieces.

1 2

Cut ½” off the top long edge of the three 15x11” fleece rectangles (this will reduce bulky seams at the end). Pin the fleece to the back of the main body and flap pieces. Set your machine to its longest stitch and baste around the side and bottom edges only (it may be easier to do this on the fleece side). Leave the gusset piece for now. PREPARE THE STRAP Fold the shoulder strap piece in half lengthwise and press to make a centre crease. Open out, then fold each long raw edge in towards the centre and press. Fold again in half and press to make a 1x44” strap. Cut two 5” pieces from this strap for the strap tabs and topstitch along both long edges. Repeat this step with the keyring loop piece.

Open out the shoulder strap piece and fold under the short ends by ½”, press to enclose raw edges and topstitch all around. Repeat these steps with the flap handle piece, but fuse the 9x1” Peltex piece centred and above the central crease before folding and topstitching the handle. (See Pic A.). You will have a 13x1” handle. Set straps aside for now.

PREPARE THE FLAP Fold the main flap and flap lining in half RST to match the short edges and cut a small curve on the bottom corners (use a cup).

Measure and mark 1½” up from the bottom centre of the lining piece. Fuse a couple of squares of interfacing behind your marking on the WS of the lining for reinforcement. Carefully cut two tiny slits for the snap prongs and install the male part of the magnetic snap, bending the prongs inwards. If the magnetic snap is very strong, add a scrap of laminate over the prongs to prevent too much pulling. (See Pic B.)

Place main flap piece and lining flap RST matching curves and stitch around the side and bottom edges using a 5/8” seam allowance leaving the top edge open. Trim down seam allowance to ¼” and turn RS out. Finger-press to flatten the edges, use wonder clips to keep the edges flat, then top-stitch in by ¼” on the

lining side using a longer stitch setting. Baste-stitch the top raw edge to close the flap.

the fleece to the back of the main gusset. Top-stitch on either side of the seams at ¼” for added reinforcement.

GUSSET PIECE If using directional fabric like the elephants, lay out the three gusset pieces with the longest piece at the bottom. You want to make sure that your side pieces don’t show the elephants upside down! (See Pic C.) Place one short edge of a side piece RST with the bottom piece and stitch. Repeat with the other side piece and the other short edge of the bottom piece. You will have a longer piece measuring about 36½x3”. Fingerpress the seams open and baste stitch

POCKETS Place a pocket lining piece and main pocket piece RST and pin along the top edge only. Stitch along this edge, then flip RSO matching all raw edges, finger-press the seam and top-stitch (remember it is easier to do this on the lining side). Baste around the three raw edges to close.

Pin the finished pocket onto a lining piece with raw bottom and side edges matching and stitch. Fold the lining W WW.S EWNOWMAG.CO.U K

in half to mark a central crease. Starting from the base of the pocket, stitch along crease to create two slip pockets and back-stitch to secure. (See Pic D.) Repeat to attach the other pocket piece to a main body piece to create a back pocket. You can divide this as well or leave as one pocket. MAIN BAG CONSTRUCTION Fold the main body piece without pocket in half short sides together and mark a central crease on the WS in the seam allowance. Do the same with the gusset piece. With RST, match the central points of the gusset and main body piece and pin every inch or so around the sides and base, easing the fabric round at the corners. It is fine if the gusset is slightly longer than the main body – just make sure that the seams where you joined the gusset pieces are parallel on both sides.

With the gusset piece facing up, stitch the first short side stopping ½” before the corner with needle still in fabric. Raise the foot, pivot the fabric and lower the foot to continue sewing the next side. If the gusset is longer than the main body piece, trim to match the edges. You may need to secure the seams afterwards with a few stitches. (See Pic E.)

Attach the gusset in the same way to the other main body piece with pocket, matching central crease and corner points, but stitch with the main body piece facing up. Trim seam allowance to ¼” to reduce bulky seams. Fuse the 13x2” Peltex stabilizer to the base between the seams. Turn the bag RSO, finger press the seams and ease out the corners. (See Pic F.) STRAP TABS Fold the keyring loop in half with short edges matching. Loop a D-ring up to the fold, then stitch as close a possible to the ring, backstitching a few times to secure. Repeat this step with the two strap tabs and triangular rings or D-rings.

14 15

Stitch the keyring loop to one side of the lining piece with pocket, about 4” down and with ¼” seam allowance.

ATTACH FLAP Pin flap RST to the back of the bag. The flap lining will be facing up. Stitch with a ¼” seam allowance.

17 18

Close the flap over the front of the bag to gauge where to position the other side of the magnetic snap.

Repeat steps 11-13 to construct the lining but leave an 8” gap in the base to turn the bag out later. Switch to a ¾” seam allowance on the bottom to avoid a baggy lining. Trim seam allowance to ¼” apart from the gap which you will need to fold under later. FINAL BAG ASSEMBLY With flap open and strap tabs tucked down, place the bag exterior RSO into the lining WSO. The pockets will be at the back with the flap. Match the four corner seams first, then clip every 1” or so around the top of the bag. Sew with a ½” seam allowance.

20 21

Gently pull the bag through the gap. Press the gap seam in by ½” and stitch to close from corner to corner.

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SHOULDER STRAP Thread one end of the shoulder strap through a swivel snap hook and fold under about 1”, clip and stitch close to the ring. With the folded end facing down, loop the strap up and over the slider bar loosely, then loop it through the other swivel snap hook. Now loop the strap back under the slider bar beneath the first loop and pull through by 1”. Pin the strap down on the snap hook side and test that you can adjust your strap before stitching in place. You can then clip the shoulder strap onto the bag and you’re done!

We used

Push the lining into the bag. Use clips to keep the front of the bag flat. Use a few pins to keep the lining flat inside on the flap side of the bag if needed. (See Pic G.) Switch to a walking foot or Teflon coated foot if you have one.

Cloud9 Elephants laminated cotton, £20 per metre

All metal hardware and interfacings

Stitch the strap tabs centred on the Set your machine to a longer short sides of the main bag with length stitch and top-stitch raw edges matching. around the bag at a ½” seam allowance.

FLAP HANDLE (OPTIONAL) Open out the flap with the RS up. Position one handle end 2” in from the side of the flap, pin and stitch a neat box about 1½x1” (up to the Peltex piece), back-stitching as you go to secure. Repeat with the other side of the handle and it should bow in the middle. (See Pic H.)

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Kale Robert Kaufman Kona cotton, £2.25 per FQ www.plushaddict.co.uk www.bobbingirl.co.uk

Get a handle on it

FEATURE

A well-chosen and ﬁtted handle can be the diﬀerence between a good bag and a brilliant one – but what are your options?

Prym silver 25mm D-rings £2.40 for a pack of four, www.weaverdee.com

HANDMADE FABRIC STRAPS

The most a�ordable type of bag handle is always going to be a handmade fabric strap! You can co-ordinate these with your bag fabric or choose a contrasting colour to match the bag piping or binding for a really professional �nish. The simplest way to make fabric straps stand out is to use metal accessories. Add an extra 10cm to your bag strap to account for seam allowance and folding over the metal D-rings. Thread the ends through the ring to create a loop and then attach to the main bag body in a box formation for added strength. You can use snap hooks to create a detachable strap or bag sliders to help you to adjust the length of your strap.

CHAIN HANDLES

For an evening bag or purse, a thick fabric strap probably won’t cut it. Metallic chain is an easy way to add a luxurious �nish to partywear or simply to glam up your everyday purse. While a chain isn’t suitable for larger bags, there are lots of di�erent thicknesses you can play around with. For a detachable chain handle, sew in ribbon strips when stitching your bag outer and lining fabric and either use a snap hook or thread the chain through to secure.

PRE-MADE HANDLES

These style of wider handles come in all shapes and sizes and feature holes, metal handle hooks or �xed metallic rings at the end to help you to attach them to your bag. To join these handles to your bag you’ll need to either stitch them straight onto the bag, as seen with the mustard bag straps above or attached using rivets like the quilted bag to the left. Instead, you can make a fabric loop for each ring to secure them to your bag. We recommend interfacing the fabric used on your loop so your bag can take lots of wear and tear!

Gold metal square-link chain £16.67 per metre, www.wento.etsy.com

Gold bag chain with clasps £2.36 per 1.2 metres, www.handmadesgarden.etsy.com W WW.S EWNOWMAG.CO.U K

Magnetic wrist pin pot, £5.97 www.houseofbath.co.uk

My Crafting Journal, £14 www.paperchase.co.uk

Bernina buttonhole chisel set, £19.50 www.jaycotts.co.uk

Fiskars rotary cutter, £13.94 www.sewessential.co.uk

Threaders stencils, £10.99 www.crafterscompanion.co.uk

Skills

Trimits cutting mat, £18 www.hobbycraft.co.uk

THRILLS Top up your sewing space with our favourite skill-building ﬁnds

Sew your own jeans, £30.43 www.sewisfaction.co.uk

Wooden folding 2m ruler, £24 www.shopbeyondmeasure.co.uk

Canvas storage pots, £22-£50 www.bohemiadesign.co.uk

Sewing gauge, £9.64 www.etsy.com/uk/shop/ArrowMountain

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Threaders stamp set, £9.99 www.crafterscompanion.co.uk

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WORKSHOPS

Sewing

WORKSHOPS Brush up on the basics or learn something new at a workshop near you

The Craft Studio, Nottingham The Craft Studio is a small independent business that has been teaching sewing and craft workshops for over eight years. Its beautiful grade two listed building is also home to a fantastic selection of fabric. www.thecraft-studio.com

SEPTEMBER 13TH SEPTEMBER Five-week beginner’s dressmaking Learn how to make a simple dress. Discover a variety of techniques such as how to measure yourself correctly, how to read a pattern, how to cut and prepare fabric, how to construct and sew the garment, insert a zip and how to create a professional �nish. Cost: £99

10TH SEPTEMBER Five-week sewing for fun During this sewing course you will learn the sewing machine basics such as how to thread your machine, how to sew in a straight line and how to create a seam. You will then complete two simple projects – a cushion and a bag. You will be guided gently into the di�erent stages of each project which will allow you to learn at your own pace. Cost: £125STARTING 26TH

Janome Training School, Stockport Janome has a fantastic range of classes to will enable you to broaden your skills and meet like-minded sewists in a friendly environment. All classes are £70 per day, book direct with tutor unless otherwise stated. See website for tutor details. www.janome.co.uk

16TH SEPTEMBER Get to know your overlocker Do you have an overlocker that is sitting neglected on the shelf? If so, this class is for you. The teacher will explain the mysteries of your machine and how you can use it to create beautiful projects. Cost: £45

26TH SEPTEMBER Sleeve-fitting masterclass with Celia Banks This masterclass aims to solve the most common �tting and sewing issues caused by poorly drafted and designed sleeves. You will be shown how to assess whether or not the commercial pattern has been well drafted and how to improve the �t. You will make several practice sleeves to test the �t and learn how to widen or narrow any type of sleeve. There will also be the opportunity to draft and redesign various types of sleeves once the master shape has been determined. This workshop will use full size paper patterns. All patterns and materials will be provided.

pockets, with rear hemline vent. Using a commercial pattern in your size you will �t the paper pattern and then choose either to make a toile or to go straight to the chosen fashion fabric. Most basic materials such as calico and interfacing will be provided but students will need to bring a piece of material with them for the �nished article. Please contact the tutor in advance for advice on choosing fabric.

3RD OCTOBER Fit & make a skirt in a day with Celia Banks This is an opportunity to �t and make a classic straight skirt, with or without W W W.S EWNOWMAG.CO.U K

Tiny turtle

RATTLE This cute little turtle softie is a simple sewing project that makes a perfect gift for a newborn. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s filled with craft bells, which produce a nice soft jingle when shaken Project LAURA MINTER & TIA WILLIAMS Little Button Diaries Photography ALEX WRIGHT teneight

Use your template download

Tia & Laura

KID'S

SKILL LEVEL: MATERIALS: • fat quarter pale blue cotton canvas • fat quarter pale pink cotton canvas • grey & pink embroidery thread • toy stuffing • 4 craft bells • air-erasable marker • templates downloaded from www.sewnowmag.co.uk HOW TO MAKE: Use the templates to cut 2 body pieces from blue fabric. From the pink, cut 2 heads, 4 arms, 4 legs and 2 tails. (See Pic A.)

make snips in the excess fabric around the curve and cornered areas to prevent puckering.

Turn each piece RS out, using a point turner, crochet hook or a blunt pencil to gently tease out the corners. Stuff each piece and set aside. (See Pic C.)

Pin the legs, arms, head and tail onto the RS of one of the body pieces, facing inwards, with the fabric edges lined up. Make sure they are evenly placed with the legs and arms lined up with each other, then sew along the edge of the fabric to secure in place. (See Pic D.)

2 3

Pin the arms, legs, head and tail pieces RST and sew with a ¼” seam allowance. Once sewn,

Stuff the body and add the bells, pushing them into the centre so that they are cushioned by the stuffing. (See pics G and H.)

Slip-stitch the hole closed to complete! (See Pic I.)

Use a fabric pen to lightly draw a face onto one of the head pieces – you can use the template for guidance. Note that there will be a ¼” seam allowance when sewn. Back-stitch the face with embroidery thread. (See Pic B.)

Try using a tactile fabric like minky or corduroy

Place the body pieces RST, with the sewn one on top. Pin together, then sew around the body with a ½” seam allowance. Leave a 2½” gap along the side of the body to allow you to turn out. (See Pic E.)

Make snips as before to prevent puckering, then turn RS out. Press the seams lightly if you like though this is not essential. (See Pic F.)

Lorna

W WW.S EWNOWMAG.CO.U K

Behind the SEAMS Whatever your level of expertise, step up your skills with our handy guide to seam ﬁnishes

Simple seam ﬁnishes

FRENCH SEAMS

This construction technique and seam �nish is perfect for lightweight or sheer fabric.

PINKING SHEARS

Simply trim your seam allowance edges with pinking shears after the seam has been sewn. Do not trim before sewing the seam unless you have marked the stitching line. The zigzag edge will prevent fabric from fraying.

(WS)

TOP-STITCHED EDGES

Start with a sewn seam that has been pressed open. Press each seam allowance under by ⅛" to the WS and top-stitch each seam allowance edge to secure the raw edge underneath.

(WS)

How to make:

Place fabrics WST. Sew a ⅜" seam allowance from the raw edge and trim to ⅛".

ZIGZAG FINISH

This can be used before or after a seam has been sewn. Sew through the seam allowance only, close to each raw edge with a zigzag stitch and press to set the stitches. The stitch should neatly fall at or just o� the edge.

(WS)

Press open the seam and press over with RST. Sew a second seam ¼" from the edge. This will trap the seam allowance edges behind the second line of stitching.

HONG KONG SEAMS

Also known as bound seams, these feature the application of double-fold bias tape after every seam is sewn, before moving onto the next construction step.

How to make:

Sew a straight seam and press open. Press one side of the bias tape open and pin it along the edge of one seam allowance with RST. Sew along the crease to attach the seam allowance and bias tape together.

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Wrap the bias tape around the edge of the seam allowance and pin in place so the tape sits just over the sewn stitching line.

Secure by stitching in the ditch or just to the inside of the original stitching to catch the folded bias tape on the back of the seam. Sew

only through the bias tape and seam allowance, not garment. Repeat on remaining seam allowance to �nish.

In the next issue of

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ISSUE 25 ON SALE 13TH SEPTEMBER EDITORIAL Editor Sam Sterken Editorial Assistant Lorna Malkin Senior Art Editor Sher Ree Tai Art Editor Craig Chubb Junior Designer Jennifer Tyers Senior Sub-Editor Justine Moran Sub-Editors Kayleigh Hooton, Vicky Lawrenson, Chantelle Salkeld Senior Product Photographer Tym Leckey Photographers Renata Stonyte, Amy Worrall Contributors Louise Ambrosi, Ashley Cramp, Wendy Gardiner, Debbie von Grabler-Crozier, Fiona Hesford, Mollie Johanson, Laura Minter, Marilla Walker, Tia Williams ADVERTISING Senior Account Manager Noune Sarkissian noune.sarkissian@practicalpublishing.co.uk Advertising Consultant Amanda Paul amanda.paul@practicalpublishing.co.uk Sales & Information Support Executive Stacey Oldman PUBLISHING Group Buying Manager Olivia Foster Buying Assistant Rachael Edmunds Production Executive Anna Olejarz Distribution Manager Lauren Murray Subscriptions Manager Daniel Tutton Head of Design, Photography & Video Jennifer Lamb Managing Editor Kate Heppell Head of Content & Positioning Gavin Burrell Head of Softcrafts Ruth Walker Financial Director Chris Dunbar Strategy & Insights Director Dave Cusick Managing Director Danny Bowler Group Managing Director Robin Wilkinson Subscription enquiries 01858 438899 practicalpublishing@subscription.co.uk Other enquiries 0844 561 1202 customerservice@practicalpublishing.co.uk DISTRIBUTION Seymour Distribution Ltd CONTACT Practical Publishing International Ltd, Suite G2 St Christopher House, 217 Wellington Road South, Stockport SK2 6NG info@practicalpublishing.co.uk www.practicalpublishing.co.uk Tel: 0844 561 1202 Sew Now (ISSN: 2398-9610) is published by Practical Publishing Int Ltd. All material ÂŠ Practical Publishing Int Ltd. The style and mark of Sew Now is used under licence from Practical Publishing International Holdings Ltd. No material in whole or in part may be reproduced without the express consent of Practical Publishing Int Ltd. The publisher welcomes contributions from readers. All such contributions and submissions to the magazine are sent to and accepted by the publisher on the basis of a non-exclusive transferable worldwide licence unless otherwise agreed in writing prior to first publication. Such submissions are also subject to being used, reproduced, modified, published, edited, translated, distributed and displayed in any media or medium, or any form, format or forum now known or hereafter developed, for any purpose, in perpetuity. DISCLAIMER The views expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of the publisher. Every care is taken to ensure that the contents of the magazine are accurate, but the publisher accepts no responsibility for errors. While reasonable care has been taken when accepting advertisements, the publisher cannot accept responsibility for any resulting unsatisfactory transactions, but will investigate any written complaints. Stock images provided by Shutterstock Inc

INTERVIEW

5 minutes with…

Maternity Sewing

Becoming a mum shouldn’t mean great sewing patterns are hard to ﬁnd – that's the philosophy behind Maternity Sewing. We chat to founders Lisa and Erin

Lisa

Erin

Can you tell us a bit more about why you decided to launch Maternity Sewing? We were pregnant at the same time but knew each other for years before. We were sewing bloggers who started our own pattern companies (Erin as Tuesday Stitches and Lisa as Paprika Patterns). We became close friends via email after having our daughters. We launched Maternity Sewing because we had a hard time �nding fashionable patterns while pregnant and wanted to do something to �x that! What can people expect to �nd on www.maternitysewing.com? A curated selection of sewing patterns from a variety of independent designers annotated for suitability for late maternity, nursing and early maternity or postpartum. Postpartum-friendly clothing is anything loose through the waist, so you don’t have

to have been pregnant to appreciate the selection we’ve curated. We have Maternity Sewing Exclusive patterns, with more to come. We want to be a resource for women so we promote body positivity and o�er a place to share experiences. We have plans for our blog where we’ll share tutorials and inspiration for mothers.

"We want to be a resource for women who have been there or are there right now so we promote body positivity" What advice would you give to new or expectant mums looking for patterns? We’ve got everything you need! It can be intimidating (and wasteful) to think you need an entirely new wardrobe during pregnancy, but that’s not necessarily true - we’ve gathered patterns that aren’t speci�cally designed for maternity but will accommodate most of your pregnancy and be great postpartum. Of course, we also have maternity speci�c patterns.

What's on your sewing tables? Lisa is pregnant so she's taking full advantage of the maternity sewing patterns we’ve curated! She’s sewing patterns so we can show people what they look like in di�erent stages of pregnancy. She’s also working on Maternity Sewing Exclusive patterns. Erin is sewing samples of Maternity Sewing Exclusive patterns. Expect to see some unique leggings and maternity friendly underwear coming soon! Do you have any exciting future plans? We want Maternity Sewing to be a resource for any pregnant sewist. We have ideas we’re working on, but we can tell you we’re starting a podcast soon where we’ll get the chance to talk sewing, pregnancy and parenting and to share the stories of other sewists and parents.

Visit www.maternitysewing.com to see more from Erin and Lisa