Learning journal FT 5003 Identity Mia VickerY
What are my passions? - Sports - Fashion - Writing - Books - Spirituality - Introspection - Photography - Dancing - Filming
Who am i??? Things that i like: - Nature - Cats - Turquoise - Mushrooms - Ocean - Flowers - Space - Science - Documentaries - Tea - Collecting mugs - Techno music
In what way would i like to impact the world? / What motivates me? - Inspiring conďŹ dence to young women - Being the best version of myself - To heal - Spark curiosity - Spread positivity
S W O T Strengths -
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Good at motivating start ups Takes initiative Intuitive Good at visualising Self aware Good at problem solving
Weaknesses Impatient Overthink Easily distracted Self criticise Starting something else before I finish the first Sensitive to my environment
Opportunities -
Get things done quickly Multitask Can work around obstacles Analysing deeper
Threats -
Not getting anything done at all Missing out on progression work and finer details
Fashion Lexicons Things noted: -
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Different culture references as headwear Blackface reference Holding of heads Holding of reptilian animals Monobrows and Egyptian eyeliner Third eye
Quote: Shortly after the show, the brand quoted from technology historian and feminist theorist Donna Haraway's 1984 essay "A Cyborg Manifesto," adding another layer: "The hybrid is metaphorically praised as a ďŹ gure that can overcome the dualism and dichotomy of identity."
GUCCI FALL‘18 Fashion show Designer: Alessandro Michele Setting: Doctors operating theatre Theme: Cyborg and Identities
Alessandro Michele -
Italian fashion designer who was appointed Creative director of Gucci in 2015
“Michele’s clothes are pretty but not overtly sexy. Although they have a youthful verve, he has a preference for long sleeves, high necklines, and below-the-knee skirts of the sort that can also flatter grown women. In the twelve collections that he has presented so far, he has not isolated a single silhouette and made it his signature, nor has he mined a single historical period. Rather, his clothes reflect a broad study of costume and, in particular, of the ways adornment and embellishment have been used over centuries.”
Research
Saint Denis -
He was a cephalophore Found at the Notre Dame in Paris He was a 3rd century bishop who was martyred for his faith The legend says the saint picked up his head and walked away after being decapitated
Interpretation -
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The idea of the cephalophore is very abnormal and unnatural It is turning something (death) uncontrollable and natural into the opposite by walking to the place they want to die. It can be related to the fact that we can now control how others perceive us through using social media, which would typically be an uncontrollable act. It could also refer to the fact that Alessandro is drawn to that era of Renaissance.
Backlash Gucci received a lot of backlash after this fashion show and were accused of using racially charged and religiously insensitive designs. In February it was forced to withdraw an $890 (£689) balaclava knit, part of the autumn/winter 2018 collection, which covered half of the wearer’s face and featured a cutout mouth with large red lips. Critics said that the polo neck, which was released during Black History Month in the US, resembled blackface.
But in May Gucci was again under fire again, this time for a £790 headpiece that resembled a turban, a piece from the same collection as the balaclava. The US-based Sikh Coalition said on Twitter that the turban is “not just a fashion accessory, but … also a sacred religious article of faith”.
Gucci has appointed a diversity chief as part of a drive to restore its battered reputation after it was widely criticised for its use of racially charged and religiously insensitive designs.
My interpretation -
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I think Alessandro’s main message was that in today’s age we are so infused with technology that we use it to control how we portray ourselves and our identities to the world. Hence the name Cyborg. It is through fashion in which we choose to express ourselves by choosing clothes associated with a particular culture, religion or hobby and to create our own identity. References to different cultures is showing the vastness of what set of identities we have to choose from In the age of tech we are more liberated to pick and choose who we are and how we present ourselves to the world through social media.
Usually the use of technology and social media have negative connotations due to the fact it is so consuming and are faces are in front of a screen the majority of the time in our everyday lives. This is a massive change from the past however Michele gives it a positive light by emphasising the fact that we have never had so much freedom to be expressive of ourselves, particularly through fashion than now.
Self reflexivity Zeitgeist movie notes ● ● ● ●
“We need to live in the now” : Could be a reference The Power of Now by Eckhart Tolle The now is so great we cannot handle it so we borrow from the past or seek to the future” “You have to know the truth, you have to seek the truth and the truth will set you free” “They must find it difficult, those who have taken authority as truth, Rather than truth as authority” - G. Massey Egyptologist
Jesus the greatest story ever told ●
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Story: A virgin gave birth in Bethlehem on the 25th December and 3 Kings followed, He healed people and had 12 disciples, one betrayed him and then he was crucified at age 30 on the cross with a head of thornes. He was there for 3 days and resurrected. He died and resurrected to save us Jesus is the story of the sun and the stars People use to worship the sun and the stars Zodiacs were anthropomorphised, as was the sun ‘God’s sun’ Horus vs Set - Light vs Dark The story of Horus: Born on December 25th by the Virgin isis Mary accompanied by the star of the east adored by 3 kings, teacher by 12, 12 disciples, performed miracles such as walking on water, referred to as ‘The light’, crucified, dead for 3 days and resurrected Similar to Attis (Greece), Krishna (India), Dionysus (Greece), Mithra (Persia)
Meaning translations ● ●
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Star of the East - Sirius, on 25th align with the 3 stars Orion’s belt (also known as The Three Kings) Virgin: Latin for Virgo which is symbolised The house of bread which is a virgin holding wheat represents August and September time of harvest Bethlehem: Translates to the house of bread Crucifiction and Resurrection: Death of the sun the lowest point in the sky on the 22nd, stops moving for 3 days (southern crux), moved north 1 degree (up) on the 25th However they did not celebrate this until Spring equinox because this is when the sun is out longer than the dark 12 disciples: 12 constellations of the zodiac - 12 is a very relevant number Cross of Jesus: The cross of the zodiac - a pagan adaptation, Jesus’ head is always on the cross because Jesus is the sun Crown of thorns: The sun rays Procession of the equinox 2150 years = Age = changes to the next zodiac - We are currently in the age of Pisces symbolised by the two fish, next is Aquarius in 2150 in 130 years Jesus signifies the fish of pisces - there are a lot of fish references in the bible “We only have five loaves of bread and 2 fish” Matt 14:17 Jesus is a plagiarization of the Egyptian sun god Horus who was the anthropomorphised Sun
Astrology sun cross
Pisces symbol
Horus: Egyptian God
Jesus: Christian God
Self reflexivity thoughts ●
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Themes I see; mass manipulation, out of touch with spirituality, why do we no longer praise the sun?, A lot of people are Atheist because of the way we now interpret spirituality - it is so ridiculous (lack of truth and understanding) that people would rather believe in nothing than believe in religion. - Religion has created more wars than peace and enlightenment, isn’t the point of religion to spread peace and love? What is religion nowadays? Why do people follow a belief? - Out of fear, a sense of community and belonging, adds to their ego thinking it makes them look like a good person? I have personally been approached many times by preachers on the street and it infuriates me! My beliefs are very personal and they don’t follow any particular religion, rather a collection of knowledge from all of them since they all seem to possess similarities in that there is something bigger than us which is all knowing and full of love. There are many names God, Allah, the universe, Source. I tend to refer to it as Source, even though that is not massively important. Although I am passionate about my beliefs and my experiences with Spirituality, I don’t feel the need to force them onto people. If they ask and show interest I will share my knowledge and personal experiences, making them decide for themselves if it resonates with them. First of all you can’t convince someone into something if they are not first willing. It also annoys me that these preachers are trying to force a belief onto me that is so full of misunderstanding and they spend so much of their time willingly going along with it without even bothering to dig deeper into it. If it gives them peace and makes them a happier and kinder human being I am totally okay with people believing in what they do but do not get to try make me say a prayer that are only regurgitated words from a book and lack true authenticity! The emotion of frustration that comes up for me when thinking about these Preachers is a sign for me to look deeper into why is has such an effect on my mental state. What does is trigger in me? People telling me what to do? Anger with authority? Inauthenticity? - Why do I have a problem with taking advice from other people? Do I think I know better than them? - Maybe that is my problem and it is making me naive. I want to know why it is not common knowledge that Jesus is the anthropomorphised Sun and the bible is full of metaphorical meaning. Why do we have beliefs? I believe it’s because we all inevitably experience suffering and we want to elevate the pain. It does make me wonder why we are put here on earth to experience a human life, is this just another school? - only to experience repeated patterns in our life until we learn the lesson. Why is it people who have gone through the most ‘suffering’ tend to be such believers in spirituality? Maybe that is the ultimate lesson, to remember who we really are. Then we can actually start to enjoy life the way we are meant to. However there is no other time but ‘now’ to realise this. Referencing the book ‘The power of Now’ by Eckhart Tolle mentioned at the beginning of the documentary. There is no waiting for something to happen, we only have this very moment to experience life, to end suffering, everything else (past and future) are just figments of our imagination and aren’t real. The bible is meant to be decoded. The ones who deserve to understand spirituality are the ones who dig deeper within, to read through the metaphors, not those who take it literally. After hearing this interpretation of Jesus’ story i can say I’m more of a believer than I was before. How can I not believe in the Sun which rises everyday (or more so we rise to it) and worship a key element to my survival? It also helps me to understand other belief systems which have multiple Gods such as the Vikings and Greek Mythology, which I never understood before.
Development Thoughts -
Would people feel more allegiance to something they have personally ‘decoded’? Do things feel more worth keeping if it took some effort to get it? In our oversaturated world of Advertisements this could be a new tactic or brand direction It would work with specific target markets With fast fashion items are cheap to buy and cheap in quality, easily bought and easily disregarded. If we start making quality pieces for the price they are worth, we could slow down the fast fashion cycle. If people pay a higher price for an item, they are more likely to keep it or at least recycle meaning less production waste.
Shop front ideas Moonshroom magazine Psychedelia and mental wellbeing Visual Ideas - Circular dark interactive space - Huge moon in a constant glow - Mushroom shaped lights - Dark room lights up when the mushrooms light up - Main colours are Turquoise and Purple - Soothing safe space - Forest floor which has seating space imbedded within in it with magazines next to it to read - Reading area underneath the moon - ‘Moonlight’ allows readers to see - Things light up as you touch them like in the Avatar movie - The moon is in reference to which phase the moon is currently
Other Brand interests: Avatar movie Psychedelic society Rick and morty
Clustered mushrooms shape and positioning
Visual inspiration
Glow in the dark moon
Avatar theme park - theme inspiration
Starlit ceiling effect
Glass like real mushrooms aesthetic
Glowing plants
Flooring inspiration
Interactive space Purpose: -
Promote the magazine To affect people in a positively physiological way Create a calm yet mysterious space Hit the senses to create a feeling of peacefulness Visual: Soft lighting with faded movements, calming colours Touch: Warm room, soft carpet Smell: Essential oils Lemon. This scent promotes concentration and has calming and clarifying properties that are helpful when you're feeling angry, anxious or run down. Sound: 432hz beats music According to musical theory, 432 Hz musical therapy helps ease anxiety, bring down heart rate and blood pressure, and generally has a soothing effect.
Locations that fit my Target target audience: Shoreditch Notting hill Southbank (Artsy, eco conscious, Space Spacious enough alternative, fashionable, to walk around younger, open minded) Story and explore The installation is there to Square room evoke a sense of serenity and 15mx15m peacefulness Lighting I want people to physically feel No windows, it has to be like change in their mental dark for the lights to state once they step in and glow hope to leave a lasting There will be uv lights to impression charge the glow on the It gives them a glimpse as to ground when the what effects I promote in the exhibition is closed magazine Style of presentation Creating a whole experience will fire more neurons in the brain meaning they will most likely remember it I want people wanting more of that feeling, making them want to come back or buy the magazine -
Competition Audience Location Space / Size Lighting Story Style of presentation
Audience characteristics Curious Truth Seekers Psychedelia Wellbeing Spirituality 70’s style Fashion Colourful Connecting Good vibes Dancing festivals Expressive Yoga Non comfortists to traditional ways Alternative/ natural Lovers of nature and living beings Don’t take life too seriously Artistic
Typography: my interests
Sketch 1 of shopfront
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One huge glowing plastic moon in the centre hanging from the ceiling Sitting area underneath Floor made from fabrics, replicating a grass like feel Stones made from fabric are also sitting areas Ceiling looks like it has stars above you Larger mushroom lamps made from plastic placed in corners Walls are made from fabric It has a safe and calming effect Interactive space Magazines placed around the room
Sketch 2 of shopfront
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3 upside down mushrooms that act like buckets Have a glowing effect, similar to the moon White and glass like in texture, appealing to the eyes Inside are miniature ďŹ gures like elves Magazine copies placed on the oor
Sketch 3 of shopfront -
One massive mushroom made out of smaller mushrooms Made out of fabric and knitted pieces from recycled fabrics. LED lights that change colour inside mushroom Glows and changed colour at night Magazine is hidden on different parts of the mushroom
Typography inspiration Bold Colourful Creating shapes Layers Trippy Techno underground aesthetic
Typography Sketches
Mushroom exhibition
Seana Gavin -
British artist Collage artist Photographer Ex techno raver Inspired by the natural world
I can deďŹ nitely relate to Seana and her perspective of the world. I am personally inspired by anything related to aliens, space, psychedelia, escapism and utopian ways of living.
Mushroom material research “Recent research has shown that mushroom spores also have the potential to clean up acidic radioactive waste as one of the most radiation-resistant organisms on Earth.” In addition, a recent study showed that a fungus known as Aspergillus tubingensis is capable of breaking down plastics such as polyester polyurethane in weeks rather than years. https://materialdistrict.com/article/mustmushrooms-material-design/ Mycelium is made from the root system of fungi and can be grown in all forms imaginable. When dried, the material has similar properties to polystyrene and is therefore a suitable replacement in for instance packaging material.
Amadou - Is the type of mushroom they use and when boiled
MycoTEX NEFFA produces MycoTEX a textile made from mushroom mycelium. Mycelium, the spores of mushrooms, is an incredible material, since it only needs little water to grow, and has the potential to be, for instance, antibacterial. The fabric is 100 percent biodegradable and acts as nutritious feed for other plants at the end of its life as a garment. MycoTEX eliminates the steps of spinning yarns, weaving cloth, and sewing garments, thus taking out the costs, time, and energy this takes. Instead, the fabric is stuck into a mould and shaped. Founder of NEFFA Aniela Hoitink already used the mycelium modules to create a dress.
Benefits of mushroom fabric -
Environmentally friendly Biodegradable Uses less water to create Sustainably sourced Suitable for sensitive skin Softer than leather weather repellant
Challenges -
Production is time consuming Acceptance by consumers could be hard as it is a fungus
Mycelium Enter mycelium. Mycelium is kind of like yeast (both are fungi), but unlike most yeast cells, which grow as a single cell, mycelium is multicellular and can grow into macro-size structures—which we most often recognize as mushrooms. Not only does mycelium produce small molecules, but it gently and with supreme precision assembles them into complex structures so small that they are invisible to the human eye. Working much like single-celled yeast, mycelium takes in small molecules of food—typically sugar but often from sources such as wood or plant waste—by excreting enzymes that break these materials down into digestible morsels. As the mycelium grows it assembles a dense network of long, microscopic fibers that grow through the substrate like a superhighway system.
Mycelium is not only growing and consuming for the survival of its own species but also for the benefit of the entire ecosystem. How? Fungi are important in systems because of their innate ability to recycle nutrients which allows the nutrients to become available to other organisms in the environment.
Mushroom leather -
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Made from the Amadou species - also known as tinder fungi The mushrooms would be about 2-3 years old when cut from a birch tree Boiled to soften and the outer crusty layer is cut off Layer by layer the mushroom is cut and stretched It can then be ironed, dyed and designed accordingly
Mushroom medicine 1.
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Chaga (Inonotus obliquus) - Anti ageing, lowers cholesterol, supports immune system, prevents and fights cancer Cordyceps (Ophiocordyceps sinensis) boosts exercise performance Lion's Mane (Hericium erinaceus) - reduce heart disease, speeds recovery, prevents dementia Maitake (Grifola frondosa) - helps fight tumours, weight loss, lower blood sugar levels, stimulates immune system Oyster (Pleurotus) - high in trace minerals Reishi (Ganoderma lingzhi) - Improve sleep, reduce fatigue, reduce stress Shiitake (Lentinula edodes) - boosts immune system for colds, flu, HIV, Aids, hepatitis B, herpes, eczema, treats prostate and breast cancer Turkey Tail (Coriolus versicolor) - strong antioxidants which help fight cancer, boost immune system, improves gut bacteria health
Paul Stamets
Paul Edward Stamets is an American mycologist and entrepreneur who sells various mushroom products through his company. He is an author and advocate of medicinal fungi and mycoremediation.
Polysaccharide-K (PSK) -Polysaccharide K (PSK) is the best known active compound in turkey tail mushrooms. In Japan, PSK is an approved mushroom product used to treat cancer.
Magic mushrooms -
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Mushrooms which have psychedelic effects caused by psilocybin and psilocin present in the fungi. Effects include nausea, yawning, feeling relaxed or drowsy, introspective experience, nervousness, paranoia, panic, hallucinations, and psychosis. Native American cultures like the Mayas and Aztecs had symbols, statues and paintings which indicate that they consumed psilocybin mushrooms, especially during religious rituals, as a way to communicate with deities. The “flesh of the gods” or “ teonanácat,” as the Aztecs called them, is believed to be a type of magic mushroom. An 1,800-year-old statuette was found in a west Mexican shaft and chamber tomb in the state of Colima, which depicts a mushroom closely resembling the hallucinogenic Psilocybe Mexicana .
Case studies Psilocybin and spirituality They either received a substantial dose – about 30 milligrams – of psilocybin or a similar dose of an “active” placebo, Ritalin. The researchers used psychological questionnaires and found that 22 of the 36 volunteers had a “complete” mystical experience after taking psilocybin More than one-third of the volunteers said that their encounter with psilocybin was the single most spiritually significant experience in their lifetimes – no person given Ritalin said the same. Treating depression Robin Carhart-Harris of Imperial College London and his colleagues conducted the first clinical trial of using psilocybin to treat depression, and got some encouraging results. Each volunteer was given a 10 mg and 25 mg dose of psilocybin, seven days apart. Brain scans showed that, after taking the drug, activity in some regions of the brain reduced. These areas included the amygdala, which plays a role in processing stress and fear. The participants reported an immediate improvement in mood that lasted for up to five weeks.
Mushroom related media
Market demographic research on video streaming
Streaming demographics, Netflix being the dominant streaming platform -
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Released May 11th 2020 on Netflix
Released April 21st 2019 in USA cinemas
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42% of streamers are Gen X (35-54 years old), with 39% Millennials (between 18-34 years old) The majority are single (58%) and 78% live in urban or suburban areas. 50% have kids 50% have at least some college (the U.S. average is 39%)
As expected, it is the younger generations (aged 18 - 34) who are watching Netflix and are being influenced by shows featuring mushrooms and psychedelics. This will open up a whole new interest and anyone in the mushroom consumable market will likely have a surge of interest in the coming years, assuming that these shows paint a positive picture.
What i’ve learnt about Mushrooms and my opinion -
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Mushrooms are greatly underappreciated considering the amount of beneficial effects they have on our environment and our health. They deserve a higher level of respect and recognition than we give them in the Western world. My theory is that mushrooms can help elevate our level of awareness leading to a better and more conscious society on earth. They hold so much wisdom being the first species to inhabit earth, long before trees and plants. That is why they are used in sacred rituals such as Ayahuasca which are used to overcome past traumas by delving yourself deep into your subconscious. There is a great opportunity in the market as Eastern practices are becoming more Westernised. People are waking up and are more conscious of what they consume, with the rise of ‘fake news’ and more documentaries widely available to open people’s minds up, it is less easy for people to be manipulated and they will search for more authentic products. People believe it when they see it - documentaries are very influential, especially if shown on trusted platforms such as Netflix.
Through the eyes of a marketer
Market research on Mushroom medicine Fungi Perfecti Trusted source Seems like they genuinely want the best for people
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When did the trend start? Where did the trend origins come from? Who is the leader of the industry in Mushrooms? How big is the industry?
Mushroom powders Felt uneasy on their website Very staged promotional video Limited info on who founded the company Seems more of a money business Mushroom coffee Funny and relatable promotional video In with the times as everyone drinks coffee Speaks well to targeted audience Decent information about the founders
Trend predictions: Stamets, who says Fungi Perfecti has experienced “explosive growth” in the last few years, says mushroom research is picking up and is on the brink of major breakthroughs. “I know of no other science that has been so underfunded and understudied and yet has such a tremendous potential for human health,” he says. “There’s a flood of knowledge coming downstream into the public consciousness. Money is actually optimistic as well. “I think that there is a potentially an exciting future when we do find some very active compounds that are extremely useful in a therapeutic setting,” he says. “We’re just not there yet.” Fungi Perfecti - fungi.com Founded by mycologist and mushroom enthusiast Paul Stamets Industry leader Products: Mushroom extracts, grow your own, books
Industry predictions on mushroom medicine “E-commerce or online stores remain one of the important growth strategies for key players in the medicinal mushroom powder market. With rising number of health conscious population, social media influencers, and celebrities adopting and promoting wellness trends including gut-healthy products, functional foods, and anti-stress adaptogen, the market of medicinal mushroom powder is foreseen to earn significant traction in the years to come.” “Increasing consumer interest in healthy food products is expected to directly influence the growth of medicinal mushroom powder market. Growing health awareness along with consumer inclination toward vegan diet has largely contributed to the demand for medicinal mushrooms in the recent years.”
“US sales of mushrooms accounted for nearly $5bn in revenue in 2017, according to the market research firm Grand View Research, and the market is projected to rise to $7.4bn in the next three years.” - The guardian 16 Jan 2019
Mushroom findings (just for fun)
Reference Links http://www.twinfactory.co.uk/tag/seana-gavin/ https://www.somersethouse.org.uk/whats-on/mushrooms-art-design-and-future-fungi/m ushrooms-events/magic-medicine https://www.wonderlandmagazine.com/2019/10/24/seana-gavin-summer-19/ https://www.transparencymarketresearch.com/medicinal-mushroom-powder-market.ht ml https://www.theguardian.com/society/2019/jan/16/mud-wtr-mushroom-water-coffee-heal th-beneďŹ ts https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK424937/ https://materialdistrict.com/article/must-mushrooms-material-design/ https://www.newscientist.com/article/dn9522-magic-mushrooms-really-cause-spiritual-e xperiences/ https://www.newscientist.com/article/2150305-magic-mushroom-extract-changes-brainsof-people-with-depression/ https://www.ancient-origins.net/history-ancient-traditions/tripping-through-time-fascinat ing-history-magic-mushroom-007474 https://www.forbes.com/sites/jeffewing/2019/02/12/new-research-highlights-streaming-de mographic-trends/#54a1177660b2
https://garage.vice.com/en_us/article/mb5pny/gucci-decapitated-models https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2019/jul/30/gucci-hires-diversity-chief-afte r-criticism-over-insensitive-designs https://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2016/09/19/guccis-renaissance-man
Instagram links Personal account This account is private, all pictures are original, I post every now and again with no schedule.
Fashion account This account is to market my clothing brand, it is made up of original posts and inspiration posts from the internet, to give it the aesthetic and create a picture story.
I think instagram is still so relevant and an essential part of creating a brand image. It is a low budget marketing platform which can and should be utilized by any start up business to create and maintain customer relationships.
App account This account is purely made from inspiration pictures from the internet, to create an aesthetic and brand image of my app. It is unrelated to fashion but is a startup business project of mine I am passionate about.
