Mojeh Issue no15 by MOJEH

Chairman SHAHAB IZADPANAH

EDITORIAL

PUBLISHING

Editor in Chief MOJEH IZADPANAH

Publishing Director RADHIKA NATU

Associate Editor SHERI IZADPANAH

Publishing Assistant DESIREE LABANDA-GAVERIA

Assistant Editor KELLY BALDWIN

Subscription Assistant gracelyn gabriel

Guest Fashion Editors Guillaume Boulez Vittoria Cerciello

Paris Representatives GHISLAIN DE CASTELBAJAC Clémence Leray

Editorial Assistants Emma Bailey Harry McKinley Zoey coombe

Advertisement Manager tala amhaz Advertising Inquiries Tel: +971 4 454 20 50 Tel: +971 4 425 79 79 Email: advertising@mojeh.com

Editorial Contributors Gabriel Corto Moltedo Gillian Brett Giverney Megan Edwards

Subscription Tel: +971 4 454 20 50 Email: subs@mojeh.com

Letters to the Editor Email: editor@mojeh.com

LOUIS FOURTEEN FOR MOJEH

ART

Digital Director AMIR AHMADI KHALILI

Producer LOUIS AGENCY

Digital Analyst Behnam Orang

Art Director AMIRREZA AMIRASLANI

Concierge Service Management ASSMA AHMED

Senior Designer MEHDI GHAREH MOHAMMADI

Head of Lifestyle OLGA KOVALCHUK

Graphic Designer Borna ahadi

Corporate Manager JUBRAN HAMATI

Digital Strategy LOUIS AGENCY

Published under HS Media Group FZ LLC Registered at Dubai Media City Building 10, Office 345 P.O.Box 502333 Dubai, United Arab Emirates

Contributing Photographers Federico De Angelis Gaetan Caputo Riccardo Vimercati

WWW.MOJEH.COM Louis Fourteen for MOJEH Follow us on Twitter @MOJEH_Magazine, www.shopmojeh.com, info@shopmojeh.com MOJEH Swiss Representative Office: Rue de Rive 4, 1204 Geneva, Switzerland Average qualified circulation as issued by BPA Worldwide (July – December 2012): 13,116 copies. For the UAE printed by Emirates Printing Press LLC. Distribution- UAE: Jashanmal National Company LLC. Qatar: Dar Al Sharq. Bahrain: Jashanmal & Sons BSC (C). Oman: United Media Services LLC The publishers regret that they cannot accept liability for error or omissions contained in this publication, however caused. The opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessary those of the publishers. Readers are advised to seek specialist advice before acting on information contained in this publication which is provided for general use and may not be appropriate for the readers particular circumstances. The ownership of trademark is acknowledged, therefore reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. All credits are subjects to change. Copyright HS MEDIA GROUP FZ LLC 2011

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Contents

Mojeh

SOCIETY

20. Made In Paris The son of Bottega Venetaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s founders, Gabriel Corto Moltedo takes us on his journey of self-discovery through the streets of Paris.

26. My Stylish Life

Emirati fashion designer and self-confessed trendsetter Khulood Thani on everything from her most treasured belonging to her signature scent.

FASHION 39. Kors Under the Kaleidoscope

Noted designer and firm favourite Michael Kors talks to us about summer colour and his kaleidoscopic collection.

44. The New Tradition Abaya designer Abeer Al Suwaidi on why her pieces are helping Middle Eastern women combine custom with the contemporary.

48. The Pre-Fall Edit

Our selection of essential styles to take you from summer to winter.

57. The Persistence of Memory An exclusive first look at Raf Simonsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; AW13 collection for the house of Dior.

90. In His Shoes Exploring timelessness, technique and style with Pierre Corthay and his eponymous footwear maison. 10

Contents

Mojeh

ACCESSORIES

100. Most Desired Jewels, bags, shades and the labels we’re lusting after this issue.

103. There’s a Time and a Place

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A fusion of function and fashion, wherever you’re heading this summer, there’s a watch to take you there.

BEAUTY 108. Your Summer Look

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Be sun-kissed and beautiful all summer long with our seasonal selections for skin, hair and face.

117. Beauty and the Beast From snake venom to toxic trees, the lengths we are going to on our quest for eternal beauty.

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CULTURE 128. Looking Back to the Future Saudi artist Maha Malluh on national identity, globalisation and why her homeland will always be her greatest source of inspiration.

136. Twin Travels DSquared2’s Dean and Dan Caten on how their travels influence their designs and the cities you need to visit. 11

Mojeh Izadpanah, Photographed by Borna Ahadi

I write this note as I prepare for a summer of flux, similar I’m sure to most of you. Bigger cases are being purchased; a new summer wardrobe is tried and tested; hair is preened in preparation for hot, humid climates; and iPads, iPhones and Blackberrys are going from 3G to roaming. Because, of course, wherever you are in the world, two things remain, style and business can never take a backseat. Which is why I particularly love putting together our summer issue. With a much more hands on approach we intend for it to be more than an inspiration, but something to help make things effortless as juggling is not easy at the best of times, let alone when you’re trying to do it a thousand miles away from base camp. With that in mind, we hope for this ‘Take Me Away’ issue to, well, take away the pressure. From fashion to travel then beauty to art, even in this conveniently compact issue there are a lot of luxurious things to take in. Gabriel Corto Moltedo, one of my favourite men in the industry and son of the Bottega Veneta founders, takes us on a nostalgic tour around Paris whilst design twins Dan and Dean of DSquared2 share travel tips for our own holidays. Next stop New York to interview industry heavyweight Michael Kors. His spring summer collection offers kaleidoscopes of colour: Which palettes will you choose for your holiday wardrobe? In art, we go across to Saudi Arabia and speak to Maha Malluh about her ideas for a strong cultural identity and why her works are so imperative in tackling this issue. Through our fashion pages you’ll find highlights of the remaining summer collections – it’s all there; pretty prints, sunset shades and fabulous fabrics - along with our edit of what’s to come from the warmth and comfort of pre-fall. Why not flirt with a fur from Fendi thrown nonchalantly across your dusky pink Chloe crepe sundress, only to swap with an Oscar silk cardigan when the temperature falls? It’s a dual season choice that we’re more than grateful for, as both our jobs and families take us from one place to another, and ultimately one climate to the next. For the most part, I especially love this period because of Ramadan and Eid. A testing time though it may be, the journey centres us and more importantly celebrates those moments that mean the most:The times spent with friends and family and for that, I am always grateful.

Mojeh Izadpanah Editor in Chief

Follow me on Twitter @Mojeh_I

The Hideaway, Photographed by Federico De Angelis

Make-up by Yasaman Shoaei. Hair by Luca Comella at Y-12 Salon, Dubai.

Editor’s

Letter

From one Place to the Next

Snapshots

Editorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

A Stylish Transition From the scorching heat of the summer months to the tentatively tepid beginnings of autumn, a dual-purpose wardrobe is on the cards this season, especially when travelling from one climate to the next. Be garden party ready with an abundance of cerise coloured florals and accent accessories whilst ensuring their darker hued counterparts are at the ready come nightfall.

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Mojeh

Goyard case. 70s, MOJEH Issue 2

Ahead of The Pack Globe-Trotter and Goring Hotel collaboration

rom a deserted white beach lapped by limpid turquoise sea to the concrete shopping jungle of a bustling European city, whatever your personal interpretation of a dream destination may be, we’re sure you’re thrilled about jetting off. But it all starts at the same definitive point: packing. And summer after summer, we’re both parts excited and bewildered by the thought of finding that perfect case, that perfect travel partner. With skimpy bikinis, lavish evening gowns and overall versatility all playing a key role in any holiday wardrobe, it can be tricky to make sure that you travel both in style and efficiency. By efficiency however, we don’t necessarily mean tearing yourself away from that stunning Marchesa gown that just won’t squeeze in, or choosing between your Manolos or Louboutins because ‘one pair will have to do’, but instead investing in sturdy and trustworthy luggage that will make that preparation stage easier and, dare we say it, fun. We all adore the classics such as the Louis Vuitton rolling Pegase famous for its Damier print or Fendi’s monogrammed signature case. How about a timeless Goyard (as showcased above), personalised to match your own distinct travel needs? But if this summer you’re on the search for something even more distinctive, Anna Sui’s colourful collaboration with Tumi has caught the attention of many, injecting excitement back into luggage through vibrant designs. Our ultimate favourite however, is the ever dependable and stylish Globe-Trotter, ready to bare the load and stand out from a crowd of generic cases on the baggage belt. Using the brand’s original hand-made manufacturing method established in 1897, the timeless appeal and spacious practicality of their cases has remained popular with jet setters worldwide. Now working in collaboration with the Goring Hotel, London, the new Globe-Trotter collection is the solution to all our monotonous suitcase worries. Between them, the two icons have 220 years of experience in looking after luxury travellers, so pack up your travel troubles and flick through our fashion pages to select your outfits to place inside your new case. Simple.

DUBAI MALL, DUBAI

CENTRIA MALL, RIYADH

OSCARDELARENTA.COM

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Mojeh

From Bed to Beach

inding herself in need of the perfect post-party outfit in which to unwind, British designer Olivia von Halle took inspiration from Coco Chanel and the intoxicating nights of Shanghai to create her own eponymous line of luxe pyjamas. Described by Olivia as ‘glamorous, chic yet modern silk loungewear’, Olivia Von Halle is now coveted by East and West alike, combining the mystique of the Orient with British playfulness for a line that is just as wearable in bed as it is out on the beach this July. Stockists to date include Harrods, Liberty London and Fortnum & Mason as well as a worldwide smattering of prestigious boutiques such as Brown Thomas in Dublin, Lane Crawford in Hong Kong and Deuxieme Classe in Tokyo. As of July, Olivia von Halle will also be available online through Net-a-Porter.com, although the designer has only allowed herself the briefest of celebratory pauses at netting the online retail giant - ‘In fashion you are only as good as your last collection and I could be dropped at any point. It just drives me to work harder.’ For SS13, Olivia has lent a more masculine feel to her collection, again paying tribute to Chanel with the wide-legged, tailored Coco pyjama. Warmer nights are made a little more bearable with the Alba shirt-and-shorts combination, oversized for added comfort but still fresh and feminine in the prettiest of pastels and prints. Each piece is so beautifully cut that worn as separates they make ideal travel-wear or poolside cover-ups, designed as they are for a relaxed fit. Made from pure silk, they are also delightfully lightweight and curl up into even the tiniest of hand luggage, remaining crease-free after hours in transit. From boarding to beach to bedtime – the summer never felt so glamorous.

Photographed by Federico De Angelis

a commitment to taste Subscribe now Tel: +971 (4) 454 2050, E-mail: subs@mojeh.com

Memoir

Mojeh

Made in Paris

Gabriel Corto Moltedo, son of Bottega Veneta founders Laura and Vittorio, takes us on his tale through the streets of Paris. From his journey of self-discovery as a young man, to advice from his personal tour guide, Christian Louboutin, and then back to his routes in leather goods.

was born in 1977, the Chinese Year of the Snake, and raised between Venice, and New York City in the 1980s, a decade noted for its exuberance in fashion, art, the rise of the urban graffiti scene, hip-hop, new wave, and pop music — all of which became major influences in my creative formation. My heritage is Italian; my parents, Laura and Vittorio Moltedo founded Bottega Veneta, a brand known for its soft woven bags, and they often took me along on their travels for business or for inspiration. Throughout my childhood, I spent a considerable amount of time in Italy, where they maintained production of their line, and I spent summers working in the family factory alongside the artisans who had honed their craft for generations. From my parents I acquired my intense work ethic as well as a commitment to learning every aspect of the leather trade, and the love of design and ingenuity that brings the creations to life. I went on to study Art History at the New York University. It was there that I met my best friend, the writer Patricia Engel. During our third year of university Patricia told me she would be moving to Paris for a year and I decided to go with her. At the time, all either of us knew was that we wanted a change of scenery from New York. We were in pursuit of inspiration, anonymity, and new adventures. Patricia’s dream was to write novels and she was looking for her story. My dreams were still taking shape, though I knew they would involve my passions — art, fashion, and design. I had no idea the impact that year in Paris would have on the rest of my life.

Memoir

Mojeh

I arrived in Paris just days after Princess Diana died. It was a sad moment for the city, and there was a sense of a loss of innocence. I should say that this was before social media, and the Internet was not yet the phenomena it has become. Mobile phones were still a relative novelty, email was not yet widely used, and being new arrivals in Paris still gave us a sense of being explorers, wanderers, and often, invisible. After merely a month in Paris, all the French I’d studied since elementary school began to come out more fluidly. I felt at ease on the metro, having conversations with taxi drivers, with strangers. However, finding an apartment to rent in Paris proved challenging. An old friend of my parents named Christian, told us there was a studio apartment available on the ground floor of the courtyard behind his shoe boutique, on Rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau. Christian was always helpful when I had a question about the city or when we simply got together for a few laughs. Who knew his beautiful shoes with their signature red soles would one day become the very definition of style for every single fashion-forward woman on the planet? Of course, I’m talking about Christian Louboutin.

Patricia and I spent our days attending classes at the NYU campus on Rue de Passy in the 16th arrondissement, and our afternoons doing our homework in cafes in Saint Germain and near her home on Rue du Bac. During our free time, we spent hours in different museums — from the Louvre to the Musée d’Orsay, the Rodin Museum, Le Pompidou, the Picasso Museum, and Les Jardins de Bagatelle — simply contemplating paintings, sculptures wondering aloud about the inspiration and genius behind them. We often walked along the river, explored art galleries, and took in countless French films at the movie theatres and on Les Champs-Elysées. We made friends with locals and other foreigners and we’d take trips outside Paris to Chartres, Caen, Mont Saint-Michel. We enjoyed the nightlife, from clubs to bars, to concert halls. We wanted to absorb all we could in our newly adopted home. As I look back, I remember a few distinct impressions that the city made on me. On my walks to class, I discovered the Galerie Vero Dodat, which seemed to me to be a secret garden, though it was actually the Jardin du Palais Royal. It became a favourite place

Memoir

Mojeh

of mine, an oasis, where I would go for a stroll in the morning and again in the evenings, stealing a little quiet time away from the bustle of the City of Lights. I would observe the quaint little shops lining the corridors of the Palais Royal, businesses that had been there for years and years, each with a specific métier. I recall the windows of Didier Ludot, it seemed to be an entire museum of fashion crammed into a few square meters filled with pieces by Hermes and Celine, to name just a few, along with endless couture. I would often go in and explore what masters of fashion had done in the past with their craft, the precision of detail, and compare it to the work my parents were doing at the time. To see such beautiful work thrilled me and I knew that one day I would have to try my own hand at it. Part of the magic of Paris is participating in its spectacular landscape simply by going on long walks. And I went on many! I enjoyed going to the flea markets outside the city gates, and Les Puces de Saint-Ouen is still a place that I always try to visit to this day when I return to Paris. I furnished my home with small treasures I discovered within the flea market stalls, and when searching for new inspiration for my future collections, I always find that Les Puces is a wonderful place to start. It is no surprise then that as in love with the city as I

was, I ended up staying in Paris longer than the year I intended. Although I eventually had to return to New York to finish my studies, I knew that as soon as I was able, I would move back to the city that had first captured my heart. In 2004, I founded my luxury accessories brand, Corto Moltedo, and just a few years later, we opened our first flagship boutique in the Palais Royal, along the very same gardens that I used to love to walk through and where I spent hours daydreaming. For her part, my best friend Patricia eventually became a novelist as she always dreamed and her second novel will be published this August titled It’s Not Love, It’s Just Paris, inspired by the year we spent there together as students. Though our company’s design and production remains firmly in Italy – a tribute to my heritage and the commitment to the tradition of employing the finest leather craftsmanship the world has to offer, as learned from my parents – my creative DNA and my spirit as an artist and designer is a combination of my Italian roots, my upbringing in New York, and perhaps most importantly, my time in Paris; the city that opened my heart and mind to the world of artistic possibilities. Where I found the courage and freedom to dream and to make those dreams a reality. Paris, I can say, is where it all began.

Elias, 9

chronic lung disease, cerebral palsy and epilepsy I wish to have a waterproof wheelchair

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Join the World at worldwish.org SM

Belles

Society

Celebrated Woman in Society

Rohini Gehani E

mbarking on both married life and a business venture at just 23 years old, Rohini Gehani has proved herself an inspirational career and family woman. Founder of the unique Rivaage fashion boutiques, Rohini describes herself as a hands-on multitasker who thrives off her individuality, the desire to experience new things and a want to give back to society. ‘As one of the first young women to start a business in the region it was tough, but I had the confidence to do it and remained involved in every element of my life,’ she says. The fashion concept has maintained its edge within the competitive fashion retail market and after just two years of the first store opening, it’s now expanding out across the region whilst attracting a strong international interest. Here we celebrate Rohini’s accomplishments so far and focus on her standing as a society figure who is committed to giving back. Involved in several charity projects based in Asia and the Middle East, the compelling approach Rohini has taken towards raising awareness for the less fortunate whilst staying connected to her homeland India, is commendable. We talk to the businesswoman about her endless love for fashion, balancing a career with family and her determination when it comes to making the world a better place.

Belles

Society

When did you first get involved with business, fashion and charity work? My mum has always been involved in charity work and also owned her own tailoring shop when I was a young girl, so I was immersed from a very early age. On the other side, my father is a self-made businessman and encouraged me to move to England and study at the London School of Economics. I was actually one of the first girls from the region to be offered a place there, so it was a very big deal at the time. It completely changed my whole life, I was reborn and discovered confidence. It was also a great place for networking and I was exposed to many great businessmen such as Bill Clinton and Bill Gates. Where did the idea for Rivaage start? I looked at what Dubai was missing and realised it was starved of brands - it’s a fashionable culture but we didn’t have enough in terms of variety. I always had to travel to access the different brands, so I wanted to bring more options to society here through the boutiques. I was able to capture the market with the unique brands and through valuing our customer loyalty, the concept was a hit and most of our clients are returning ones. It was tough because I was a young woman who wanted to be involved in every single detail; a lot of things brought me down but I persevered and Dubai now really appreciates women working in business, which is great. It’s the success of the concept that keeps me going. Why is charity work so important to you? I’ve always believed in giving back and I feel it is very important for everyone to give back at some point in his or her life. We are really lucky for what we have, but people are born into a certain lifestyle and some don’t get as much as others. I believe in it so much that even when I was a child I used to help out at the autistic centre to be with the children there. This year we have done five events so far; one in London, one in Doha and three in Dubai. When we arrange the events it isn’t so difficult as people are really giving, you just need to raise awareness, highlight a cause and pair it with something entertaining. You get amazing results. Can you talk us through each of the charities, why these in particular and what your role is in each? I try to support as many as possible and as long as they are registered and genuine, I will participate. Last month we did an event with Harmony House, a charity that supports children in India. We wanted to offer them education and shelter etc. I am a firm believer that education is an asset that no one can take away from you, it can change your life. We then did an event in London with The Angeli Foundation to protect the girl child of India. I don’t have a daughter myself, but when I hear the things that happen to these children I simply cannot turn a blind eye. The event raised around £100,000, which is fantastic for them. We also held a fashion show in Dubai for them and dressed society girls in clothes from Rivaage. It was both successful and enjoyable for everyone. Do you think that as a community we contribute enough to charities? There’s definitely a realisation that people need help and we’re not a selfish generation at all, but there’s still a lot left to do and we’re in a great place to make a huge difference. What can we expect from you in the future? By the end of the year we plan to open a store in Saudi Arabia. When I’m ready to commit myself completely I will set up my own charity, perhaps a shelter for girls in India – I hope the future has that in store for me. You now have two young children, how do you find balancing a family life with a career? Everyone says that when you have your own business it’s flexible and you can work your life around it, but I feel like I’m working 24/7! I’m too hands on to give up something and to do it solely myself would be impossible, so my family supports me completely. My family is definitely the most important thing to me.

Insider

Style

My Stylish Life Khulood Thani, fashion designer

Khulood at the Installation view of Monir Shahroudy Farmanfarmaian’s works at Sharjah Biennial 11 in Sharjah Art Foundation Art Spaces, Al Mureijah.

A UAE national, Khulood is the creative mind behind feminine fashion brand Bint Thani – a venture that was born out of her love of style garnered in two of the fashion capitals of the world. Having studied at both The London College of Fashion and Paris’ ESMOD she has a masters in fashion management and marketing and launched her carefully designed brand during A La Mode London Fashion Week in SS12. A self-confessed trendsetter, she is not afraid to stand out from the crowd.

Insider

Style 1

Motto to live by: Do what you love | Hidden talent: I have a sense for new trends before they are in fashion | Best childhood memory: London in summer 1986 | One thing I can’t live without: My Chanel J12 watch | One thing that money can’t buy: Creativity | Most treasured belonging: A bracelet that has pictures of London, Paris and New York | Heaven is to me: W Hotel in the Maldives | Early bird or night owl: Early bird | How do I relax: Watching fashion documentaries

Best discovery: Milan’s Museum of Fashion and Costume History. It’s like a hidden gem | Favourite book: Vogue on Designers - Elsa Schiaparelli | Favourite movie: Valentino: The Last Emperor | Favourite meal: Breakfast | Website I couldn’t live without: Net-a-Porter | Favourite restaurant: Ralph’s Paris Restaurant located in the magical Saint Germain. It’s the best place to be with close friends | Favourite place in the world: Les Arts Décoratifs Museum in Paris. I like to visit most of the fashion exhibitions happening there, they’re so inspiring | Favourite city: Paris | Favourite artistic expression: Surrealism, especially Dali

Beauty must haves: Bobbi Brown eye shadows | Signature scent: Hermes Kelly Calèche | Go to beauty brand: Bobbi Brown | Manicure style: Nail Art, especially Art Deco inspired | Favourite hairstyle: Classic 1960’s like Audrey Hepburn | Fresh faced or full glamour: Somewhere in between | Style Icon: Diana Vreeland | Describe your style: Experimental | Best purchase: Bernard Delettrez nail ring | Favourite designers: Alber Elbaz | Ultimate accessory: Bint Thani turbans | Favourite pair of shoes: Maison Martin Margiela high heel sandals | Best fashion moment: A visit to Paris Haute Couture exhibition in Hotel de Ville | Favourite store: The Colette concept store

BanquET

Fashion

City Barbie Stand out in the city this summer with bright pink additions to spruce up generic office wear. A plain black Stella McCartney number or navy peplum dress from CH Carolina Herrera is easily teamed with Christian Louboutinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s oversized handbag. Statement accessories such as this new Dior watch show a bold and brave attitude to time keeping, whilst a Smythson diary will keep you safe and on schedule.

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Clothes for Comfort Travel comfortably to your summer destination without compromising on style. A printed oversized tee by Erdem and this season’s sandals by Prada will ensure ultimate comfort for the frequent jetsetter. Follow a palette inspired by pure white, the clear blue sky and the surface of a crystalline sea. As your flight ascends, Louis Vuitton’s circular sunglasses and Chanel’s tweed clutch will both protect and perfect your style in the sky.

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An Unusual Approach For the audacious woman who enjoys experimenting with vibrant colours and attention grabbing looks, use the Fendi runway as your summer inspiration. Mix Peter Pilotto’s sunset reds with Giles’ jet-blacks for evening sophistication with a twist, or go for a bronzed cocktail dress by Diane von Furstenberg paired with Tory Burch’s bohemian bag for a sartorial twist.

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8. Giles @matches.com | 9. Burberry | 10. Jimmy Choo | 11. Oscar de la Renta | 12. Tory Burch

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Enhance your bambinoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sugary sweetness with the perfect summer shades to travel in - candyfloss pinks and delicate powder blues from Dior and Armani hold their own in an overflowing case. Take note from Moschino for the cutie who knows how to work a bold floral look, or for the boy who oozes sophistication whilst remaining nothing short of adorable look to a bow tie onesie. 1&2. Young Versace | 3. Armani Junior | 4. Moschino | 5. Armani Junior | 6. Junior Gaultier | 7. Moschino | 8. Dior | 9. Young Versace | 10. Armani Junior | 11. Dior | 12. Armani Junior

JUL / AUG

Take Me

Away

SUBSCRIBE MOJEH MAGAZINE BIMONTHLY IN YOUR HANDS 38

Interview

Designer

Kors Under The Kaleidoscope:

Colour, Colour, Colour.

Interview

Designer

Interview

or a designer whose collections pop with a kaleidoscope of colour every season, and whose signature style can be summed up succinctly as ‘all things bright and beautiful’, it might be a surprise to learn that Michael Kors believes ‘seventy percent of a woman’s wardrobe should be meat and potatoes.’ With our basics in hand, (of which Kors counts a classic trench coat, a pair of white jeans and a classic LBD) MOJEH twists the Kors Kaleidoscope to see which colour combinations the designer has conjured up for us this summer to make our meat and potatoes pop.

BACK TO BLACK Every woman knows that black is the ultimate wardrobe hero – safe, slimming and sexy. But in summer, black can seem bland in comparison to the plethora of palettes and prints on offer. The answer according to Kors, is to use black as your ‘base’ when packing for summer, since it ‘travels to any destination and can be dressed up or down easily.’ Kors demonstrated this technique in his next AW collection, punctuated with striking black sunglasses and sheer, sport luxe separates which would work through the seasons to compliment any colour palette. Paired with indulgent canary yellows, tangerines and cobalt blue hues, black added that perfect ‘day through to night’ or ‘summer through to winter’ vibe which we all strive to perfect. Functionality and versatility, after all, are always a key focus for Kors. ‘Comfort, quality and luxury are always the main factors I consider. I’ve got to the point where I have a uniform which works for everywhere I need to go – white jeans, a black shirt and aviators…my collections are designed for speed and versatility, they can be worn in multiple ways, the volume can be turned up or down, but they never compromise on style,’ says the designer. Perhaps it is no surprise then, that black is the colour of the piece which Kors classes among his favourite designs of all time, a black cashmere

‘Paired with indulgent canary yellows, tangerines and cobalt blue hues, black added that perfect ‘day through to night’ or ‘summer through to winter’ vibe which we all strive to perfect.’ turtleneck gown both ‘glamorous and practical all at once.’ Such indeed is the beauty of black, and with some stunning summer pieces such as the ruched-skirt jersey dress and one shoulder asymmetric dress available in the current Kors collection, it is easy to keep your cool in shady black. But for those determined to boycott black this summer, navies and nudes can be a fresh substitute, just as slimming and championing the ever-fashionable nautical theme – the Tiered Ruffled Maillot in Navy is a perfect example of one of Kors’ ‘meat and potato’ staple swimwear pieces, ultra feminine and covered in pretty ruffles. Our pick of the nudes is the effortlessly chic Hamilton tote bag – large size of course, a girl needs her space – in either black or vanilla leather, boxy enough to double as a work holdall whilst housing your summer essentials on the go, since, ‘In a season of serious brights, nothing stands out like a carryall in a polished neutral.’

WOW WITH WHITE Continuing the monochrome theme is white, a personal favourite of Kors himself, and undoubtedly a summer staple. This season Kors uses the colour to seamlessly blend workwear with a casual sports luxe theme, showcasing loose fitting white blazers with matching wide-leg jersey pants and crisp studded ballerina pumps – perfect partners for his signature watches which are, as always, whitewashed with the wow factor. White, this summer, should be used as your alternative blank canvas, allowing your bolder colour choices

Interview

Designer

to shine through even more brightly than with a black counterpart. ‘The beauty of dressing for summer is easy silhouettes,’ he says. So try those crisp white separates, a slim line white jean or light fabrics - crepes and linens both feature generously in the Kors collection this summer.

PRETTY PRINTS And so, on to prints, which Kors refers to as the remaining thirty percent of a woman’s wardrobe – the ‘icing and fluff.’ This summer, he is loving printed kaftans paired with white shorts and clean white tees for an ‘easy yet glamorous’ vibe. Prints are the key to cover-ups this summer for Kors, who understands the concerns many women have about choosing flattering yet fashionable swim wear. ‘It’s all about showing your best and covering your worst,’ he says. ‘A sleek onepiece bathing suit is chic, stylish and sexy…an extra dose of sophistication and polish’. It’s not all about the swimsuit though – cover-ups are key. The house champions the printed kaftan as the go to printed piece, either short or long, worn over your bathing suit or light monochrome separates. The other print du jour being stripes, with knit dresses and shifts amongst his core pieces this season. ‘The striped shift dress is a favourite because it’s chic and versatile –you can just fold it up and fit it in a clutch or a carry on and not have to worry about it. My customers are always jetting from one place to another, and this is the ultimate travelling dress,’ says the designer. The perfect balance of ‘chic, sexy and sporty’, which the Kors woman constantly covets – the combination of a garment that is ‘indulgent and luxurious but also easy.’ The stripe does not date or fall out of favour despite which country you may choose to spend your summer in this year, and the next, and the one after for that matter.

The perfect balance of ‘chic, sexy and sporty’, which the Kors woman constantly covets – the combination of a garment that is ‘indulgent and luxurious but also easy.’

MAKE IT MANDARIN Kors certainly lives a life richly filled with colours and cultures, explaining his love for splashing his collections with diverse and surprising hues. He describes his lifestyle as ‘very engaged,’ full of music, theatre, art and travel. He cannot choose a favourite travel destination, but loves ‘everywhere from Vietnam to St Barths and Barbados’ and counts New York City as ‘the most fabulous city in the world.’ This energy and zest for life is certainly reflected in his favoured summer bright this season– mandarin. ‘Red is glamorous for any season, but mandarin is also a chic choice, and it’s less dramatic than red for people who aren’t used to wearing colour.’ The Kors catwalk exhibits the joy of mandarin dazzlingly, colour blocking the shade with blacks and whites in a chic, sport infused way. The colour pops most when worn casually, mixing easy fabrics with sharp accessories to get that perfect mix of funky flair and classic chic. ‘Liquid shapes with a sporty ease that remind me of Lauren Hutton dancing the night away at Studio 54,’ Kors reminisces. So, the Kors Kaleidoscope will continue to spin, season upon season, settling whimsically upon new hues and never ceasing to dazzle with daring brights and bold prints. But what is the key to the Kaleidoscope? ‘Every designer faces the challenge of continuing to surprise and excite. For me, I’m trying to do that whilst solving the problems women encounter in their wardrobes every day. That’s the key!’ Kors understands the art of combining colour with classics to ensure that whilst a woman’s look is always fashion forward, it is also figure flattering. His savvy knowledge of the jet-setting woman makes him our ultimate summer travel partner, and this season’s hottest colour chameleon. Hands down.

Interview

Designer

Interview

Mojeh

The New

Tradition

Like her abayas, designer Abeer Al Suwaidi is cut from a different cloth. A firm believer that style should be an expression, she is part of a new breed of creative, taking a garment grounded in tradition and reimagining it with a focus on fashion.

emaking tradition with her own distinctive vision, Emirati designer Abeer Al Suwaidi is challenging our perceptions and offering a take on the abaya that is pioneering in its originality. Her dramatic embellishments and unusual cuts – Abeer is credited with inventing the ‘skinny abaya’ – have seen her garner widespread attention and gain a devoted following of Middle Eastern women hungry for pieces that combine custom with the contemporary. ‘If you’re Emirati you could be wearing anything underneath your abaya, but feel that people don’t know who you are because it’s all underneath,’ says Abeer. ‘With my abayas, it’s like, ‘this is who I am. You see me’.’ Warm, witty and with a creative fire that manifests itself in her work, Abeer is every inch the fashionista, not just under her abaya, but through it. Studs, feathers and bold metallic bands have all been employed in her pieces, which shirk the idea that modesty has to be mundane. ‘Whoever wears my abaya knows that when she’s walking in, she’s making a statement,’ explains Abeer. ‘She’s strong, she’s sassy and she’s not afraid to say who she is.’ Of course, as with all endeavours that break the mould, her efforts haven’t been without criticism. ‘Some people think that I’ve changed it too much, that I’m not following ‘the system’ and that what I’ve created isn’t an abaya,’ she says. But far from rile against the detractors, Abeer is measured, even accepting in how she processes it. ‘The thing is, truly I understand. Anything new or anything we are not used to, it’s normal to feel strongly about. But I’m very proud of my heritage and trying to accomplish something positive. I hope they can appreciate that.’ With both of her parents artists, Abeer is no stranger to creativity. It’s perhaps for this reason that she is so judicious in accepting the fact that the best work will always be divisive - pouring her energy into pieces she coins ‘wearable art’. ‘My abaya is my canvas. I never studied design, but I took this seriously as a creative outlet,’ she says. ‘Instead of drawing or painting, this is really my platform.’ Through her boutique USH, Abeer is also cultivating a platform that extends beyond her own designs. An environment where the new breed of abaya designer can display their work, it is already firmly on the style map as the go-to destination for abayas with a forward thinking edge. ‘The idea was to bring us all together so we can express what we want to express in one place,’ she explains. ‘Now there is a young crowd that are so into it - the kind of women you will see at fashion shows or on the creative scene. Finally there is somewhere where they can find the styles that really reflect their love of fashion.’ And in the end fashion isn’t merely about trends but conveying your character through dress. For Abeer this is the lesson she most wants to impart, ‘I want to say come forward and express yourself. Don’t let anything stand in your way. Don’t just think, ‘this is how we were taught to wear it’, allow it to be an expression of yourself.’

Interview

Mojeh

BanquET

Fashion

When Night Falls Follow Gucciâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s lead and dare to be dark for Ramadan with decadent designs by Malaak and HF Boutique, perfect for keeping things classic during this sacred period. Marc Jacobs is ideal for the woman who wants to break the mould with her dress cut whilst staying close to monochrome. Complete the look with statement high-jewellery pieces from Boghart, and seasonal bags from Michael Kors and Dior.

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7. Malaak | 8. Michael Kors | 9. Jimmy Choo | 10. Manolo Blahnik | 11. Paule Ka

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The PreFall Edit Look to our pick of essential trends to transition you out of summer and into winter, this year pre-fall is all about prints, a feminine touch and your essential work wear. Michael Kors

Stella McCartney

Louis Vuitton Proenza Schouler

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Proenza Schouler experiments with a bold metallic print as a profusion of pattern burst to lifeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; 48

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Patterns and Prints

Lanvin

Givenchy

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â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Embrace your inner animal with a leopard clutch at Gucci or a rework of the classic trench at Burberryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;

Burberry

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The Cool Cover Up Bottega Veneta

Alexander McQueen

dior

‘Modesty has never been so chic. Opt for a floor-length and full-sleeved Emilio Pucci or Alexander McQueen gown’ 50 Emilio Pucci

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New

A Feminine Touch Chloe

Moschino

Valentino Alexander McQueen

‘Delicate ruffles and soft shades highlight the ongoing importance of femininity in fashion’

Season

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The Business Woman Oscar de la Renta

Gucci

Louis Vuitton

‘Designers showcase a diverse set of strong silhouettes for the working wardrobe’ 52 Chloe

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â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Look to Dior for precise tailoring and practical accessories, both key this seasonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;

Moschino

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celine

Jean Paul Gaultier

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Laid Back Luxe

Burberry Prorsum

Stella McCartney

DSquared2

Issey Miyake

‘Balance comfort with style to achieve that desired nonchalant look ’

New

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The Winter Warmer Fendi

Celine

Chloe

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Fur remains as popular as ever for both investment and seasonal buyingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;

55 Alexander McQueen

MOJEH Louis Fourteen

www.shopmojeh.com 56

Exclusive

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The Persistence of Memory A splash of history, an artistic nudge, the makings of a great; this is Dior for AW13, join us for an exclusive first look.

All images photographed by Sophie Carre.

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Intricate hand drawn motifs were embroidered and embossed onto both garments and accessories from start to finish.

hristian Dior used to be a gallerist with a penchant for Salvador Dali. This is the nugget of information we took away with us from the Dior AW13 runway show back in March. A little known fact that Raf Simons, in his quest to bring the house into the 21st century whilst staying true to its roots, hitched his wagon to in an artful display resulting in his first fall collection for the brand. Tapping into a close affiliation that he shares with the founder – Simons boasts a keen interest in contemporary art whilst Dior’s affection extended beyond the surrealist to the likes of Alberto Giacometti – the collection is an ode to the artistic pedigree of the label. From the off, the muse of the moment was clear to see. In the silvered spheres hanging above the runway to the soundtrack from Laurie Anderson, Andy Warhol was who Simons looked to for inspiration but, as with many things this designer does, it was not what you’d expect. Forget the cans of Campbell’s soup, the Pop art and the Factory – this collection presented a sensitive side to the New York institution rarely seen before and it penetrated deep into its heart. Collaborating with The Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts, intricate hand drawn motifs were embroidered and embossed onto both garments and accessories from start to finish. Spidery looking shoes and portraits of forlorn women were most prevalent, the latter appearing on the peplums of skirts and swathed across bustiers. The reigning champions of the day were what Simons coined his ‘memory dresses’ – delicate shifts that emulated the scrapbook nature of the collection, smattered with whimsical Warholian designs. And it was in these staple pieces that the true message of the

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Simply cut yet still oozing with femininity, his artistic influences are prevalent but, as intended, do nothing to overwhelm the form.

day sang true. This was a dialogue between Simons and Dior. The old and the new. The legacy and his protégé. And it was a lesson in how to take the foundations of an esteemed house and make it your own. From Simons’ classic new look shape in jet-black leather to the re-worked houndstooth print and the famous Bar jacket - this season paired with loose fitting, oversized trousers, for an ironically androgynous feel – the creations of a master were made for the woman of today. Outwardly in control of his vision Simons isn’t afraid to add his own essentials to the mix. From the muted colour palette that has become synonymous with the Belgian designer through to his utilitarian style that sees eveningwear pushed to one side in favour of everyday, practical pieces – case in point one simple, navy column dress made just special enough for any occasion with its graphic use of Warhol ingenuity. And so we were left with the taste of things to come set firmly in place. Simons isn’t about to throw caution to the wind and upend a firm fashion favourite anytime soon but he isn’t one to rest on his laurels either. Finding new, innovative ways to connect the past to the zeitgeist of today is the mission of the moment and his scrapbook of inspiration will only aid him well in the creation of this new Dior. A MOJEH favourite, this chosen look from the collection is emblematic of Simons’ message as a whole. Simply cut yet still oozing with femininity (such is the Dior way) his artistic influences are prevalent but, as intended, do nothing to overwhelm the form. With just enough personality to stand you apart from the crowd – it is Parisian chic with a Belgian twist.

Contact SIAFIMMO.

The Hideaway Photographed by Federico De Angelis Styled by Guillaume Boulez All makeup by Dior

Coat, ROCHAS | Shirt, JUST CAVALLI | Hat, GALERIES LAFAYETTE Makeup Face: Diorskin Nude Tan BB 001 Cream and Diorskin Nude Tan Paradise Duo 001| Eyes: Diorshow Mono Eyeshadow 506 Nude, Diorshow Iconic Overcurl Mascara 090 and Diorshow Art Pen | Lips: Dior Jelly Lip Pen 656 Gaia 154

Jacket, JUST CAVALLI | Turtleneck, STELLA MCCARTNEY | Hat, MAISON MICHEL Make up Face: Diorskin Nude Tan BB 001 Cream and Diorskin Nude Tan Paradise Duo 001| Eyes: Diorshow Mono Eyeshadow in 506, Nude Diorshow Iconic Overcurl Mascara in 090 and Diorshow Art Pen | Lips: Dior Addict Lip Glow

Jacket, EMILIO PUCCI | Turtleneck, JUST CAVALLI | Trousers, STELLA MCCARTNEY | Scarf, FORGET-MENOT | Shoes, ELIE SAAB

Jacket, 3.1 PHILLIP LIM | Shirt, MOSCHINO | Skirt, JEAN PAUL GAULTIER Make up Face: Diorskin Fluid Foundation 001 and Diorskin Nude Tan Paradise Duo 002 | Eyes: Diorshow Mono Eyeshadow 506, Nude Diorshow Iconic Overcurl Mascara and 090 Diorshow Art Pen | Lips: Rouge Dior Nude 169

Turtleneck, CARVEN | Skirt, ROBERTO CAVALLI | Turban, FORGET-ME-NOT | Sunglasses, WONDERLAND | Belt, CHLOE

OF THE Photographed by Riccardo Vimercati Styled by Vittoria Cerciello

Coat and dress, SAINT LAURENT BY HEDI SLIMANE | Hat, HEATHER HUEY | Gloves, COSTUME NATIONAL | Tights, 73 CALZEDONIA | Shoes, PIERRE HARDY

Coat, SONIA RYKIEL | Hat, EUGENIA KIM | 74 Earrings, BEN AMUN | Ring, ASOS

Shirt and Skirt, BOTTEGA VENETA | Hat, 75 JENNIFER BEHR | Gloves, LA CRASIA

NEW YORK NEW YOR

Jacket, shirt, skirt and shoes, HACHE | Gloves, LA CRASIA | Bag, BOTTEGA 80 VENETA | Socks, CALZEDONIA

Jacket, MARNI | Hat, STUSSY | Earrings, PAMELA LOVE

Models: Sofia and Henna at Ford Models and Vivien Ong at Next Models | Make-up artist: Carolina Dali | Hair stylist: Marco Santini for ION Studio at The Wall Group | Stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Assistant: Luca Galasso | Prop stylist: Reynaldo Davis Carter | Local production and casting: Roger Inniss at Boom Productions | Production: Louis Agency

Special Thanks to Greg and his cat Lucifer

Organise Your Life in Style. louisfourteen.com

Photo and design by the house of Bijan

Hunter

Fashion

Sand Castles Beach brights and pieces that combine buttonedup with a flamboyant flourish are essentials as the temperature soars. Searing yellows and lush greens are offset with deep blues and navy whilst orange, an adventurous choice, completes the cocktail of bold mix-and-match tropicana. With a holdall on your arm and a checkered wallet for alternating currencies, the final accessory for a truly rounded ensemble is a tepid ocean and a stretch of shoreline.

Hunter

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Hunter

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Paradise City As the sun beats down on a sizzling Upper East Side or Salamanca, defy the wilting heat and cut a path through the metropolis with clean lines and muted colours for a genre we’ve coined ‘summer sharps’. When the thermometer goes up, still be down with structure by opting for light fabrics that transition easily from open air to air con, and colours that channel a semi-formal Scandi cool.

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In His Shoes For the modern gent Corthay defines, and frequently redefines, how we think about the meeting of luxury and style. We spoke to Pierre Corthay and the maison’s CEO Xavier de Royere, to explore timelessness, technique and why a tennis star gave up his shoes.

ast open the wardrobe doors of the average woman and you will find enough shoes to outfit an army – if stilettos were standard issue of course. But us? Well our compendia of footwear may be smaller in number, but no less considered. From the glossy, hand crafted patina of a pair of classic wingtips to the soft, crinkled leather of a duo of well-worn brogues, our shoes travel from continent to continent to be slipped on year after year with an obliging familiarity. For a purveyor of fine footwear such as Corthay, the relationship between a chap and his shoes is sacrosanct. ‘If you want something on-piste there are more established brands that you could go to,’ says Xavier de Royere, ‘but we like to think that the Corthay customer is intelligent, he is curious about the world around him and he wants to make an educated choice.’ For the Corthay man, or frankly any man, choosing a pair from what is still a relatively boutique label could be a sign of connoisseurship, a recognition that an investment in quality is always a wise one, or a combination of both – after all some shoes are designed to be loved for a season, others a lifetime. ‘They’re like a fabulous piece of furniture that eventually becomes timeless,’ says Pierre. ‘Because of course good quality design is timeless,’ continues Xavier. ‘I think it’s incredible that sometimes we pick up shoes we created 15 years ago and they look a million dollars.’ With a refreshing approach that knowingly eschews the obsolescence that can walk hand-in-hand with more seasonal labels, Corthay places excellence, durability and style at the forefront of its endeavours. As Pierre says, ‘It’s this unique alchemy that gives the

Pierre Corthay and Xavier de Royere

Interview

Mojeh

modernity to our product.’ ‘We’re not going to sell you your grandfather’s shoes because design has evolved,’ explains Xavier. ‘But buy a pair today and they will never look last season.’ Yet this is a label that knows how to take its time; to savour the process and concentrate on technique over trend. In Corthay’s Paris atelier, ‘there is no sound of machinery, just the sepulchral silence of concentration, punctuated only by the regular tap of the cobbler’s hammer.’ Whether St. Barths in the summer or St. Anton in winter, we live lives that take us from sun to snow and back to the sands and, as a principle of design, we continue to look to pieces that transition easily but also endure. The distinctive patina on a pair of Corthay shoes – applied by hand at the Paris atelier – affords an aged look, whilst for those who prefer a dash of pizzazz, brightly coloured laces and reflective glosses carry a subtle eccentricity. For Pierre, character plays a significant role, ‘My obsession is to offer quality and durability but always with a dash of creativity and - as a chunk of our shoes are bespoke – it’s about shoes that are a reflection of the man wearing them.’ ‘Take the Bel Air for example,’ says Xavier when probed on Corthay’s latest design, ‘When we created this shoe, we had in mind that you are having a martini by the pool of the Beverly Hills Hotel at 5pm and five hours later you are holding the Oscar, but you’re still wearing the same shoe.’ Of course timelessness doesn’t mean a lack of innovation, and Corthay are perennially seeking to combine the classic with the contemporary in a way that takes its designs forward whilst keeping its toe dipped firmly in archetypal ideas of artisanship. The notion of camel leather shoes may raise eyebrows but run your hand over the undulating material - supple but resilient - and it’s apparent that the spark of genius has made itself very much at home in this flourishing maison. These are worldly shoes for worldly men – or simply the men of the world. ‘There’s a customer who comes once a year, every year to order a new pair of shoes,’ says Pierre. ‘He says to me, ‘I’m a school bus driver. I’m in love with your shoes and I save money for the pleasure of coming to Paris once a year to collect the special pair you have made for me.’ I was really touched and it gives an authentic value to what we do.’ Similarly Xavier recounts the story of Rafael Nadal who, ‘came to us after winning Roland Garros and donated us the clay covered shoes he had worn in the winning match.’ Our relationship with our shoes goes deeper than the caress of a cashmere sock on leather. It’s why we want something lasting. Ultimately they say you never really know a man until you’ve walked a mile in his shoes. If they’re Corthay, all it will take is a few steps.

Bespoke Arca Crocodile

Bespoke Simple Japan Derby

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The Heat is On For the woman who wants to radiate the rays of a beautiful sunset, richness arrives in a multitude of textures and accessorised in a variety of copper and burnt hues. A jeweled Oscar necklace is a statement piece to be worn with either a plain or printed bikini, (the latter for maximum impact), and woven Tory Burch heels will ensure you stand tall under the sizzling summer sun.

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Sink or Swim Nothing says holiday quite like khaki colours and Marianna G one-piece swimsuits, ideal for lounging around the pool or soaking up the beaming rays on the beach. Lime green Jimmy Choos and a printed swimsuit by We Are Handsome radiate glamour. Polish off with shimmering gold accessories to add a little luxury to minimal attire.

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She

Knowles

Best

Solange Knowles may be Beyonce’s younger sister but she’s not to be overlooked when it comes to fierce fashion choices. Equipped with confidence, Solange turns heads with a strong presence and constantly proves that she is certainly not afraid of colour. Whether it’s tangerine orange, canary yellow or bubblegum pink, the bronzed beauty justifies her decisions by wearing them – at times all at once – with an air of nonchalance and perfection. The songwriter, DJ, model and mother mixes up her style as much as she does her career, by balancing the eccentric with the glamorous in an array of sweeping gowns teamed with exotic prints and voluptuous accessories. Not one for the minimal, she instead adorns herself with several rings and chunky bangles that suit her experimental attire. Always one of the first to adopt latest trends - case in point a perspex heel and boxy clutch - Solange has fast become a style leader for the young and the beautiful.

From top to bottom and left to right courtesy of: John Shearer, Jason Merritt, Theo Wargo, Ilya S. Savenok, Larry Busacca, Mike Coppola, Jason Meritt, Jason Merritt, Ilya S. Savenok, Dimitrios Kambouris, Jason Merritt, Jamie McCarthy / All Getty Images

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Celine

Cutting Edge Phoebe Philo delivers the latest ‘it’ bag from the Celine Fall collection, the Edge. A simple yet sophisticated offering, the luxe detailing and the minimal design are both fitting attributes for the brand built on simplicity and class. Cool and casual redefined, the Edge is lined with leather, features an interior zip pouch and is available in pebbled or palmellato leather, soft pony and exotic python skin. The handbag resonates primarily with the Celine woman, all parts confident in her appearance and undoubtedly coveting a polished sense of style. The alternative

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colour options only enhance the collection’s endearment, with brave oranges and trusty blacks offering both conventional and statement aspects to the striking appeal of the bag. The practicality of the ‘it’ also deserves recognition. Firm structuring keeps it in a defined trapezoid shape, whilst its size provides plenty of room for everything and anything a woman needs. Successfully continuing to bring London flair to this distinctly chic French fashion house, Philo’s newest innovation promises to transform any accessory collection from uncool to city chic.

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Zaveri Prive For Old Time’s Sake

As a young child, Bijoy Zaveri grew up admiring his grandfather’s extensive collection of vintage frames, and as his love for eyewear continued to grow he wished that one day he would have a magnificent assortment of his own. Travelling the world to attend auctions in search of rare pieces, he sourced frames that were either eyecatching, timeless in nature, or had a story to tell. Several years later, Bijoy announces the launch of Zaveri Prive with a prestigious range of eyewear all of which had been

carefully handcrafted between 1930 and 1990. Boasting such brands as Dior, Chloe and YSL, the ongoing collection consists of vintage round-windsor, cat-eye and oversized styles, amongst any others Bijoy and his team have sourced that month. Today the collection consists of over 25,000 unworn models, each selected for their exclusiveness and enduring appeal. Zaveri Prive’s sunglasses have been spotted on celebrities such as Brad Pitt, Beyonce and Kanye West, proving that vintage is still well and truly at the top of its game.

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Most

Carrera y Carrera The Golden Age

Inspired by the lavish 16th Century Spanish Empire, the latest and most ornate collection Tesoros del Imperio from Milan based jewellers Carrera y Carrera is nothing short of exceptional. The splendour of the decadent era is reflected through the incomparable craftsmanship of the collection, which pays homage to the Museo del Prado and its prevalence in European art history. From the Reina set, influenced by the deep and wide-set collars worn by royalty, to the Cervantes, where gold and diamonds are moulded to match the movement of lace cuffs and neck ruffs from the period, the collection is a genuine embodiment of the lavish and luxurious spirit of the time. As a tribute to the leading portrait artist for the

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court of King Philip IV, the Velazquez pieces are a particular highlight, stimulated by fashion, embroideries, fabrics and colours and flaunted through the use of Carrera y Carreraâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s matt gloss technique. The addition of amethyst stones (as showcased in the above pieces), rich blue topaz and diamonds set within the yellow gold options make for exceptional choices. With generous volumes, the Velazquez rings are worn best, layered to create a dramatic and regal effect. Carrera y Carrera crafts their collections by combining long-standing and meaningful moments in history, with modern day panache and a very distinct design technique â&#x20AC;&#x201C; all elements beautifully summed up by their campaign girl Olivia Palermo.

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There’s A Time and A Place As the season for jetsetters gets well underway, enjoy the MOJEH edit of the best new watch releases to take you from place to place. When you set sail aboard a Caribbean cruise ship, will Breguet’s water resistant timepiece prove a good cause for splashing out, or will you opt for Harry Winston’s 45 hour power reserve to keep you in tune across the vast desert dunes? Considering everything from functionality and design to durability, wherever you’re heading this summer, there’s a watch to get you there.

Tropical Paradise • The first grand complication watch from the house. • Self-winding tourbillon visible through the glass opening. • 50-piece limited edition. • 18k pink gold, sapphire crystal and ivory lacquered gold. Bvlgari, Il Giardino Tropicale Di Bulgari.

Beach Break • One-of-a-kind piece. • 100 hours of research to get the Grand Feu enamel technique. • Red gold case set with 144 diamonds and 4 diamond cabochons. • Design influenced by the Impressionist art movement. DeLaneau, Atame Poppy Field.

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Desert Explorer • • • •

Silver white metallic slate dial impression. 18k rose gold with 91 brilliant-cut diamonds. Each quarter mark indicated with 3 diamonds. 45 hour power reserve.

Harry Winston, Midnight Monochrome.

Adventure Spree • • • •

10-piece limited edition. White gold, 323 diamonds and black rubber strap. Automatic movement and 40 hour power reserve. Water-resistant.

Audemars Piguet, Ladycat Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph.

Culture City • 10-piece limited edition. • 18k white gold case with brilliant cut diamonds. • Dial in onyx set with brilliant-cut sapphires, diamonds and one ruby. • Self-winding mechanical movement. Chanel, Mademoiselle Prive Camelia Origami.

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A Business Affair • • • •

Includes 100 Top Wesselton diamonds. Re-imagining of the original 1992 collection. Ultra-slim 4.6mm case and quartz movement. Black alligator skin strap.

Longines, Le Grande Classique de Longines 100 Diamonds.

At Sea Level • Re-imagining of the original women’s 8827 model. • White mother of pearl dial. • Turquoise leather strap can be interchanged with steel bracelet. • Self-winding with seconds, minutes, hours and dates. Breguet, Marine Chronograph Dame 8827.

Miami Glam • Based on Italian cinematic neo-realism of the 1950s. • Diamond setting. • White, rose or yellow gold, gem-set or polished and available in full pave versions. • Quartz or mechanical movement. Chopard, La Strada.

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Your Summer

Look As the sun continues to beat down and swimsuit season creeps ever closer, it’s essential to equip yourself with an arsenal of products to help you both combat and make the most of the powerful rays. To aide you in this task, we’ve put together our top choices for the skin, hair and face, ensuring that you’ll be sun-kissed and beautiful all summer long. Arm yourself with these and you’ll tackle all those niggling problems - from cellulite to dry skin, a pallid complexion to frazzled hair – whose prevalence is all the more apparent when the mercury hits that all important high.

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Smooth, even looking skin in a jiffy. CLINIQUE, Moisture Surge Tinted Moisturiser SPF 15

Say hello to natural looking, sun-kissed skin. ESTEE LAUDER, Pure Colour Palette in Batik Sun

7 A zesty punch of colour to kick your lashes up a notch. CHANEL, Inimitable waterproof mascara in Lime Light

3 For the

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Sun infused smackers with a sequin glow. LAURA MERCIER, Lip Glacé in Amber Rose

Get that beautiful bronzed and burnished hue.

Just the right amount of bashfulness.

GUERLAIN, Terracotta Signature Bronzing Powder

DIOR, SummerMix Blush Crème in Bikini

Nails burst to life with this gorgeous, girly shade. ILLAMASQUA, Nail Varnish in Stance

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Minimise persistent cellulite, boost hydration and make your skin tighter, plumper, and smell gorgeous to boot. CLARINS, Body Lift Cellulite Control

A cream that needs commitment. Apply using the special Dior massage technique and see skin bounce back. DIOR, Dior Svelte Body Desire

For the

Body

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When the inevitable over exposure hits, be armed and ready with the best mist to lift out the burn. LA PRAIRIE, Soothing After Sun Mist

Shield your skin from the sunâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s rays with a protective sensation.

Cocoon yourself and watch those fine lines evaporate.

CHANEL, Daily UV Care Multi-Protection

SISLEY, Sisleya Anti-Ageing Firming Body Care

Vision

Beauty

A healing cream that over time adds everything the sun has taken away. PHILIP B, Detangling Toning Mist

For the

Say goodbye to dry, brittle tresses. BUMBLE & BUMBLE, Quenching Masque

Hair

Shine bright like a diamond. PERCY & REED, No Oil Oil for Thick Hair

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Evolution

The Beauty

A Feline Presence

Accustomed to a 1920s style this uber- short bob skims just below Erin’s cheekbones, highlighting her strong features and enviable bone structure. A rounded fringe softens the impact of the full-bodied bangs.

1. KEVYN AUCOIN, Brow pencil in Brunette | 2. ORIBE, Superfine Hairspray | 3. SHIRO SHEARS, Professional Hair Shears Gr-60 | 4. GUERLAIN, Terracotta Loose Powder Kohl Liner in Noir | 5. ILLAMASQUA, Powder Eyeshadow in Human Fundamentalism | 6. TOM FORD, Shade and Illuminate Intense | 7. CLE DE PEAU, Silky Cream Foundation

Not one to shy away from a stand out look, heavily smoked eye-shadow in the blackest of black is a staple of Erin’s wardrobe. Juxtaposed with light, barely there lips she ensures her eyes are the centre of attention.

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A fun, carefree look, this is off-duty attire. Pushing her hair away from the face, her façade is lightened and appears fresh and glowing. A smattering of mascara and minimal foundation is key here.

From top to bottom, left to right images courtesy of: Stuart Wilson/Stringer, Chris Jackson/Staff, Gareth Cattermole/Staff, Jo Hale/Stringer, Chris Jackson/Staff, Chris Jackson/Staff, Ian Gavan/Stringer. All Getty.

As one of the biggest supermodels of all time, Erin O’Connor is no stranger to the avantgarde world of beauty, so it is of no surprise that her personal choices edge on the side of daring. With a repertoire veering from the severe to the feminine, the traditional to the experimental, her strong, androgynous features perfectly compliment the styles that she opts for. Take a trip through her beauty back-catalogue and if you’re teetering on the edge of a pixie crop, we’re sure her sophisticated style will be the decider.

Evolution

The Beauty 5

A rare change of course, this fifties style up-do is far less harsh than her usual choice of cut. Bringing youth and light to her face â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a punch of clementine-hued lip colour is a perfect antidote to the ultra-feminine bouffant.

Glamorous, dramatic and truly alluring this feathered hairstyle combined with an elongated bronze sparkle on the eyes is a standout look for Erin. Sleek and sophisticated, try adding a touch of shimmer on the forehead and cheekbones for a dewy finish.

Creating a dramatic contrast between a dewy, doll-like complexion and a strong, structured cut, Erin enjoys playing with juxtapositions.

High impact, high glamour â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Erin pulls off the weird and the wonderful with ease. Dramatically contoured eyebrows are given maximum exposure with a slicked back version of her legendary bob. Proceed with caution.

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The

The Beauty

Column

Butterfly

Effect

We’ve all heard the saying that the eyes are the windows to the soul. Well the perfect set of lashes only makes gazing through that window all the more enticing this summer.

Lashings 3 of mascara, umpteen layers of solid kohl eyeliner and copious amounts of eye-shadow in various hues is the everyday ritual we undertake in an effort to make our eyes look as hypnotising as possible. Do you waste those precious minutes however, teasing out the lash clumps, dabbing away the smudges and genuinely getting dissatisfied with your own haphazard mascara application? Well waste no further; instead commit to a studious set of false lashes, or rather a range, enabling you to walk into any room on any occasion and bat those lashes with ease of mind. From the individual lash to the full-bodied bushy variety, not to mention the more extravagant coloured, gilded, diamante versions, the lashes available to us are numerous. Do we want to look glamorous or girly? Catlike or birdlike? Perhaps even jetting back to the 60s, the era of long, thick, jet black and ‘wow’? Who knows, but in our experience the best place to start is deciding on the event and the impact you plan on making. For those of us who are happy with what our mothers gave us we recommend you only look towards the individual offerings that add a little volume to your existing lashes without screaming imposter. These minimal additions - that can be placed between your current bristles - are perfect for creating a wide-eyed look, eluding to the idea that you’re bright eyed and bushy tailed every day. For a more knockout effect, a pair of tantalisingly full lashes will do the trick such as those on offer at Shu Uemura. With strands that criss-cross back and forth, creating a black wall of glamour and seductiveness, they will make your eyes look like a raven taking flight. When walking into a room, however, make sure to flutter them only slightly, as the weight of one of these is hard to judge. And now we move onto the star of the evening, the type of eyelash that has been designed with the ultimate icon in mind. Never meant to be hidden away and always intended for the spotlight. Whether it be dipped in 24 karat gold, adorned in a delicate string of pearls or dressed up to the nines in diamonds these lashes, with their gusto, spirit and element of surprise, are the go-to design for that ultimate evening of decadence. Only on those nights when you stride with confidence and certainty will you pull these beauties off. If a venture towards the imitation is on the cards there is just one golden rule: if you can see a rim of white glue above your lash line, those falsies will be 1.ARDELL, Individual falling off before you’ve even made Lashes in Medium | it out the door. 2. KRE-AT, Diamond Half-Lash | 3. SHU UEMURA, Black Velvet Lashes | 4. SHAVATA, York Lashes

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It seems the beauty war against premature ageing has taken on some rather wild new regimes. By borrowing innovative and naturally derived ingredients from the animal world, needles have been rendered needless. But can a bee sting secretion really be as effective as Botox?

otox has long been condemned as the equivalent of injecting poison into your face. In truth, it is a mild form of a very potent toxin. But, if you thought that was extreme, imagine slathering snake venom across your precious visage, all in the name of eternal youth. Adding to our bathroom cabinet of anti-aging arsenal are viper venom induced moisturisers that claim to ‘stun’ the skin in the same way a real snake bite would, offering similar results to the world-renowned wrinkle-retarder. Now the scientific part: the key ingredient in these creams is a synthetic version of the poison of the Temple Viper (a snake commonly found in Thailand) that contains certain amino acids that block nerve signals, forcing the facial muscles to contract, which can in turn prevent wrinkles from forming. Cult beauty brand, Rodial, were quick off the mark on this one releasing their Glamoxy Snake Serum way back in February 2010. Dubbed ‘Botox in a Bottle’, the highly anticipated cream was linked to the peachy complexions of Victoria Beckham, Yasmin le Bon, Bella Freud and Gwyneth Paltrow, thus becoming an instant sell-out. In fact, advance orders topped 100,000 and once it eventually hit the shelves in Selfridge’s department store in London, it sold at a rate of 50 pots per day. The cream was thought to be an affordable and less invasive miracle cure for the pesky lines caused by premature ageing. Indeed, trials showed that after just 90 seconds wrinkles were less noticeable, with an impressive 52% reduction within 28 days. Other brands have been fast to hop on board, with Hollywood facialist, Sonya Dakar, even offering a special snake venom treatment. Kumaara Overnight Repair Complex includes the same imitation venom as Rodial’s serum, as does Planet Skincare’s antiageing daily moisturiser. While there are obvious advantages to a topical treatment over Botox—such as the power to impede wrinkles while allowing the face full movement and emotion—snake serum does have its drawbacks. Firstly, the effects will never be as dramatic as actual Botox injections; externally applied formulations cannot penetrate deeply

Trend

Beauty

Beauty and the Beast

enough to effectively inhibit muscle contraction. Plus, the cream needs to be meticulously reapplied on a daily basis as the body metabolises it quickly. Thus, the quest for everlasting youth continues and it seems the beauty world has persisted in exploring the wilderness for answers. Enter Rodial’s latest invention: Dragon’s Blood Sculpting Gel. More likely to feature in the beauty regime of Gaga than Gwynnie, this one is not for the faint hearted. The ‘Liquid Facelift’ forms a skin-like film around the face to protect and preserve a youthful complexion. Meanwhile, potent ingredients plump, sculpt and lift the facial contours. How? Don’t be taken aback, the gel isn’t gleaned from actual dragons, it’s made from the red sap of the South American Sangre de Grado tree. The cream’s biggest selling point is its anti-sagging properties. Touted as an alternative to Restylane fillers—which can result in the dreaded ‘pillow face’ effect—the gel is said to have dual-action, plumping and shaping properties. Again, while the potential results are tempting, a quick Google search on the Sangre de Grado tree uncovers alarming medical uses to cure the likes of diarrhoea and irritable bowel syndrome. Perhaps not something you’d also like to apply to your face each night. On the slightly tamer end of the scale is snail secretion face cream. This slime—or as beauty buffs now call it Helix Aspersa Müller Glycoconjugates (a nice easy one to ask for at the beauty counter)—is lauded for being a completely organic and natural ingredient. There was a time when mud masks were considered a revelation, but digging beneath the soil and adding the insects that dwell there to your beauty regime can apparently relieve even the most severe skin conditions. Snail slime’s powerful biological properties are said to help alleviate acne, fade pigmentation and scarring and brighten dull complexions—as well as reducing those wretched wrinkles. The slime that a snail produces is traditionally used to heal cuts on its soft, squishy foot as it travels over rocks, twigs and other rough surfaces. So does it make sense that the substance would have the same effect on human skin? A complex blend of proteins, glycolic acids and elastin (all recognisable skin-loving ingredients), popular US brands such as Missha, Dr. Jart+ and Labcconte have all infused their lotions and potions with the goo. In fact, Dr. Jart+’s popular Premium Time Returning Serum and Cream contains 77% snail mucus extract. Yet, while historically renowned for its regenerative properties, the concept of rubbing bug gloop into your skin still seems somewhat unpleasant.The animal invasion doesn’t end at anti-ageing and skincare; this trend has infiltrated almost all forms of beautification. Fish pedicures grew prominence over the last couple of years when it was discovered that the tiny Garra Rufa fish that live and breed in the outdoor pools of some Turkish spas enjoy nibbling on dead skin. Psoriasis sufferers discovered they could be treated by the ‘doctor fish’ as they only consume the affected and dead areas of the skin, leaving the healthy skin to grow. The next step was to bring them to beauty salons in lieu of cheesegrater style foot files. Simply dunk your toes into a tank filled with this toothless carp, and behold—callus-free feet can be yours with just a light tickling sensation. So, from snake venom to dragon’s blood, and snail slime to hungry fish, it seems conventional beauty regimes have become savage rituals. Whether you decide to indulge in one of these off-kilter treatments is up to you, just remember, as with all new beauty fads, be sure to research new products thoroughly and check every ingredient is right for you.

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Winged Beauties Photographed by Gaetan Caputo | Make-up Artist Jabe at B Agency

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Eyes: Stylo Eyeshadow in Cool Gold 17, Jade Shore 37 and Blue Bay 47 and Mascara Inimitable Waterproof in Blue Note 57 and Lime Light 37 | Le Rouge Chanel in Liaison 49 | Foundation: Les Beiges Chanel Healthy Glow Sheer Powder n째30, CHANEL BEAUTY

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Eyes: Exclusive Creation Stylo Eyeshadow in Cool Gold 17, Pink Lagoon 27 and Jade Shore 37 and Mascara Inimitable Waterproof in Lime Light 37 | Lips: Rouge Coco Shine in Pygmalion 467 | Foundation: Les Beiges Chanel Healthy Glow Sheer Powder n째20, CHANEL BEAUTY

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Eyes: Exclusive Creation Stylo Eyeshadow in Cool Gold 17 and Pink Lagoon 27 and Mascara Inimitable Waterproof in Lime Light 37| Lips: Rouge Coco in Amant 53, Lèvres scintillantes in Daydream 174 | Nails: Bel-Argus 667 and Taboo 583 | Foundation: Les Beiges Chanel Healthy Glow Sheer Powder n°20, CHANEL BEAUTY

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Eyes: Exclusive Creation Stylo Eyeshadow in Cool Gold 17, Pink Lagoon 27 and Blue Bay 47, Stylo Yeux Waterproof in True Blue 57 and Mascara Inimitable Waterproof in Aqua Blue 47 and Zest 27 | Lips: Rouge Coco Shine in Pygmalion 467 | Foundation: Les Beiges Chanel Healthy Glow Sheer Powder n째30, CHANEL BEAUTY

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Eyes: Exclusive Creation Stylo Eyeshadow in Moon River 07 and Jeux de Regards Le Volume Mascara Bleu n°20 | Lips: Rouge Coco Shine Suspense 80 | Nails: Azuré 657 | Foundation: Les Beiges Healthy Glow Sheer Powder n°30, CHANEL BEAUTY

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Eyes: Stylo Eyeshadow in Cool Gold 17, Jade Shore 37 and Blue Bay 47 and Mascara Inimitable Waterproof in Zest 27, Lime Light 37, Aqua Blue 47 and Blue Note 57 | Nails: Bel-Argus 667, Taboo 583 | Foundation: Chanel Les Beiges Healthy Glow Sheer Powder n째20, CHANEL BEAUTY

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Makeup: L’été Papillon Chanel Summer 2013 Collection | Models: Kate Kukushkina at Oui Management and Leanne Eshuis at Nathalie | Hair stylist: Muriel Vancauwen at B Agency | Manucurist: Philippe Ovak at Marie-France Thavonekham | Production: Louis Agency

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In Residence

Artist

Looking Back to the Future

audi artist Maha Malluh’s work is the progeny of her homeland. A country of contrast, complexity and sometimes contradiction, it informs her creative process. For her, Saudi Arabia is a land in flux, caught between its past and the onslaught of global influences. By exploring issues of heritage and identity and how these evolve in an age of modernity, she manages to touch upon truly collective concerns. Her work - ranging from crisp photograms to physical objects that draw from the past - fundamentally tackles the big questions; in a globalised world, how do we define who we are? How does a nation retain its distinctiveness in an era of corporate homogeny? And how does a country grounded in tradition develop a cultural, social and political dialogue with the wider world without losing touch with its legacy? We spoke to Malluh about her work, her message and why, for Saudi Arabia, developing a strong cultural identity is crucial to finding a lasting place on the global stage.

Maha Malluh, Food For Thought ‘Assabeel’, 2012, Athr Gallery, Jeddah

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In Residence

Artist Maha Malluh, Food For Thought 7000, 2012, Athr Gallery, Jeddah

Your work explores the dialogue between the past and the future and can be seen as a commentary on change. In your own words, what is your overriding message? Since the dawn of the twentieth century, Saudi Arabia has been struggling to find its own voice within modernity. The acceleration of Saudi Arabiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s interaction with the global market forces has meant that many of our traditional values are being sidelined as a result of consumer culture. If I could put it plainly, it is important for Saudi Arabia to cling onto the aspects of our traditions, which give it its unique character rather than dive into the depths of globalisation and sink in the process. Contrast plays an important role in your pieces and you often experiment with mediums whilst portraying traditional motifs. How important are the techniques you employ to what you want to say overall? I enjoy playing with physical objects. The tactility that is allowed through the use of photograms and, more recently, installations is particularly enjoyable to me. Aside from that, the use of physical objects is a testament to the changing cultural landscape in Saudi Arabia. Using objects which are no longer in use, as opposed to images of them, becomes a very striking and much more noticeable construction of a message which may be ignored in a photograph or painting. It is not so much about shock and awe, but about attracting the attention of the local population who are being swept away by the marketing strategies of brand names. What kind of understanding would you like to bring to those outside of Saudi Arabia through your work? Saudi Arabia has and continues to be seen in a very colonial, or should I say, orientalist way. Such a view will undoubtedly offer a very limited understanding of a very rich part of the world. There is much more to Saudi Arabia than headscarves, Mecca and oil. It is through my art that I try to show the complexities of my country.

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In Residence

Artist

Saudi Arabia can often be viewed as an inherently traditional country and with tradition can come conservatism. Is the burgeoning spirit of creative openness and acceptance (such as Jeddah Art Week) allowing you greater freedom in how you can tackle issues through your work? The increase in the number of creative events across the Arab world and especially in Saudi Arabia is definitely helping to foster creative freedom on the part of the artist. Prior to such events, artists had to exercise selfcensorship for fear of being misrepresented. This is not the case anymore. As a Saudi artist, I am glad to see that such events have an increasing number of visitors and people are becoming more accepting of art works that could have received unfavourable attention in the past. Of course, not everything artists have to say will be positively accepted, but this is still an emerging market, and the future looks very promising. Do you feel art is now being embraced as a key element to the nation’s cultural identity? I think it is more accurate to say that contemporary art is now being embraced as part of the nation’s cultural identity. Art is always present in our lives as Saudis. The intricate embroidery on the Ka’ba and the calligraphy that is found in every mosque is nothing if not art! But the nation’s cultural identity is moving on from arabesque geometry, Arabic calligraphy and Islamic arts. Saudi Arabian embassies across the world are sponsoring art events relating to Saudi art. The most recent example of this is the Saudi sponsorship of the Hajj exhibition at the British Museum. We spoke before about the burgeoning spirit of creative acceptance. Being able to compete on a global level requires a solid cultural identity, and art is one way of helping to strengthen that identity. Maha Malluh, Head to Head, Shemagh Mirage Series, 2010, Athr Gallery, Jeddah

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In Residence

Artist Maha Malluh, X-Rayed 1, 2011

With change what is there to be gained? With change we have traditional paradigms being deconstructed - attitudes that were based on ignorance rather than informed, reasoned judgments.     You developed a series of photograms exploring the modern, urban Saudi man.When exploring identity I was interested to know why you tackled the modern Saudi man as opposed to the Saudi woman. What did you feel you wanted to say here? The Saudi woman is seen in popular western imagination as a ‘wretched’ figure, oppressed by patriarchal Saudi society. Although not entirely accurate, as well as not being particular to Saudi women, I found this issue of male patriarchy interesting. I was interested in the construction of that model and how it was founded on notions of masculinity. You have said that you are very inspired by the traditional Najd region, where you were born, and then you also studied abroad in the USA. Does this duality ever manifest itself in your work? I feel that this issue of duality has been overdone in cultural discourses. What does it mean? I, for one, have always found it very peculiar. I see East and West as relative constructs, and the boundaries have always been fluid. The ‘Silk Road’ connected much of the ‘East’ and the ‘West’ way before modernity. It is natural that when you travel to another country you will experience new things, and this may help you to question your own perceptions, but I do not believe this is because I am from the ‘East’ and I travelled to the ‘West’. This is something that happens regardless of geopolitical space. Finally, there is a great deal of contemporaneous interest in Saudi Arabian art. What is it about the message, or the pieces, that mean they have appeal on the global stage – in short, why now? I think a lot of what is being produced now resonates with the international contemporary art scene. The liberal, democratic values prevalent in Saudi art have never been present in such a wide scale as they are now. Saudi artists touch upon the common values of protecting human rights, social liberties, and economic freedom, all of which are shared amongst people regardless of where they come from.

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in Exhibition

Artist

James Turrell, Rendering of installation for the Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum, 2012, New York, Rendering created by Andreas Tjeldflaat

The Light of Wordless Thoughts James Turrell’s medium is light. With it he explores our notions of perception and forces us into the cerebral, where the real dalliance with his message happens – his work often towing the line between tangible and intangible. In his first solo exhibit in a New York museum since 1980, light and space are once more his canvas and easel. In addition to examples of his most celebrated installations, and a thread of reference to his Roden Crater Project, Frank Lloyd Wright’s iconic architecture is transformed into a pulsing rotunda of colour that breathes in and out, seeking to rekindle the museum’s identity as a ‘temple of spirit’. In what is a genuine synergy between the artist and venue, Turrell’s work doesn’t simply inhabit the space, it becomes it. 21st June to 25th September, James Turrell, Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum, New York City

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Shirin Neshat,  Divine Rebellion, 2012 ,  Courtesy Faurschou Foundation, © Shirin Neshat  Collection, Faurschou Foundation

Artist

Shirin Neshat is one of Iran’s most notable cultural exports. In her new exhibit, The Book of Kings, she continues her modus operandi of fusing sweeping classicism with the contemporary. Inspired by the 60,000 verse Persian epic Shahnameh, Neshat recontextualises the sometimes-violent history of Persia against the backdrop of today’s Middle East. Taking a multilayered approach, her work combines photography with calligraphy, poetry and saga to create a rich visual language, rife with meaning and infinitely philosophical. Divided into three groups, her pieces tackle the role of individuals - namely Patriots, Villains and Masses and their ambiguous positions in current political events. Like an open question or chess pieces in an unfolding game, Neshat’s subjects represent a snapshot of a history in progress paralleled with a history already past, posing the question – are we destined to repeat the same cycle?

in Exhibition

These Seeds I’ve Sown

13th April to 8th September, Shirin Neshat: The Book of Kings, Faurschou Foundation, Beijing, China

Shilpa Gupta, I Live Under Your Sky Too, 2011, Photo: Nakao Toshiyuki (CACTUS), Courtesy Yvon Lambert, Paris

The Thing About Love When the Roppongi Hills and Mori Art Museum opened its doors in 2003 it presented an exhibition on happiness. Now, for its ten-year anniversary, it tackles another of life’s grand narratives - love. Expansive, topical and deeply emotive, over 200 works chart the complexity of the most potent four letter word, from a broken heart to personal connections in a digital age. Mixing classic masterpieces with inventive and ambitious new works, a sense of scale perfectly echoes the density of the theme itself. Split into five fragments that include ‘What is Love?’ and ‘Love in Losing’, highlights include works by Jeff Koons and Damien Hirst as well as a rousing new installation from Queen-of-Spots Kasama Yayoi and a virtual performance by Hatsune Miku, the social creation that spawned a phenomenon. 26th April to 1st September, All You Need Is Love: From Chagall to Kusama and Hatsune Miku, Roppongi Hills and Mori Art Museum, Tokyo, Japan

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Bookshelf

The

Adventureland The beach holiday may be a classic but what about all of those places in the world that offer a little more than the simple sea and sand combo? We take a look at a selection of titles that will whet your adventure appetite and inspire you to discover the world we have on offer. From the desert plaines of the Sahara and the mountainous cliffs of Everest to the deepest darkest depths of the ocean, these reads are a must for anyone with the traveller’s bug.

The Lost Photographs of Captain Scott Unseen Images from the Legendary Antarctic Expedition By David M. Wilson Commemorating 100 years since the fateful Terra Nova Antarctic expedition undertaken by Captain Scott and his team in 1912, this book brings together long lost photographs captured by Scott during the final months of their intrepid adventure. A testament to the men who lost their lives exploring one of the world’s harshest landscapes, the compilation of breathtaking shots shows the explorers and their animals, polar panoramas and geological phenomenons. Not for the faint hearted, it is a true adventurer that tackles the perils of the South Pole. Little, Brown and Company, Out Now

Alpine Americas

An Odyssey Along the Crest of Two Continents

Photography by Olaf Sööt. Essays by Don Mellor From Alaska’s Brook Range right down to South America’s Andes, Alpine Americas explores the 10,000-mile range of peaks that make up the western edge of the Western Hemisphere. One of the longest features on the planet, explore each chapter as it takes on a new mountainous expanse seen through the lens of Sööt and the words of Mellor. Dissected from numerous perspectives – geological, historical and philosophical – each chapter takes a single element of what that place means to us and portrays it in all its natural glory. A stunning compilation of an area of the world experienced by few.

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Horizon Editions, LLC Out Now.

Bookshelf

The

Everest

Mountain Without Mercy By Broughton Coburn A tragic tale of bravery and defeat is commemorated in this tome that documents the expedition of David Breashear and his film crew as they scaled the dizzying heights of Everest in 1996. Met by tragedy when a blizzard struck on May 10th, author Coburn takes you through the stages of their adventure, incorporating a firstperson account into the midst bringing the events and subsequent disaster to life. A beautifully illustrated story of life and death. National Geographic Society , Out Now.

Desert Air

By George Steinmetz A breath-taking look at the barren landscape of the world’s deserts from above, recorded by renowned artist and photographer George Steinmetz. Including page after page of beautifully constructed photography this book unearths the hidden experiences that he endured over the 15 years it took to make it. From smuggling an aircraft into Libya to crashing into the ocean, every dune has a story to tell and Steinmetz has worked tirelessly to tell them all. Abrams Books, Out Now

Wonders of the Deep

The Astonishing Splendour of the Seven Seas By the Editors of LIFE Taking a trip beneath the rippling surface of the ocean, Wonders of the Deep explores the unknown world that exists beyond our own. Including stunning photography from the world’s most respected nature photographers, get lost in the pages that open your eyes to the creatures of the deep. From the hunters to the prey, the mammals to the plants, even the haunting shipwrecks that make up the underwater landscape, if you can’t discover it yourself then exploring this book is the next best thing. Time Home Entertainment, Inc. Out Now.

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in culture

Life

Twin Travels Design duo Dean and Dan Caten of DSquared2 tell us where their travels and designs meet and the one mustvisit place from their own holiday diary.

What does summer and travel mean to you? Travelling is an important part of our lives and we’re always on the move, mostly for work, but for fun too when we can slot it in. We recently went to Japan and South Korea and hosted a special cocktail event in collaboration with a Japanese photographer, Leslie Kee, who has just published a book called Super DSquared2. In our down time however we love the mountains or the sea, anywhere that there’s sun - we like to be outdoors whenever possible. What inspires you in the summer? The world around us and our travels. Sometimes it can be a city, other times it’s simply a person, maybe a colour, perhaps a typical meal or a local market. We live in London but travel back and forth to Milan for work and the contrast between these two cities and their people is a great and constant source of inspiration. Actually, our SS12 menswear collection was inspired by a variety of places that we’d recently visited, Florence and London for example. The stage set-up was built to depict these different environments. Are there any synergies between your collections and the cultures you visit? Yes, definitely – even if we’re not aware of it at the time, we absorb everything and ideas will often pop into our minds at a later date. We’re constantly looking at how people dress, trying to understand how their outfits work or if they don’t work, then why and how we can improve on that idea. We

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in culture

Life

were in Istanbul recently and noticed that the youth – who have little money – had cobbled together ‘suits’ in mixes of synthetics, such as jackets, that had nothing to do with their pants and scuffed shoes without socks. It was an absurd mix that really got us thinking. What destination do you recall as your most memorable? The Maldives. Everyone thought we’d be bored and would hate it, but it was paradise to us, we felt as if we were on the Gilligan’s Island film set. Which place have you found to be the most thought provoking? Brazil. There is such an amazing energy; it’s sunny and the people are always smiling and positive. It’s contagious. When you’re in a good frame of mind great things happen. And it’s of course an added plus if there’s an interesting cultural backdrop and an evocative history to match. Where should we definitely visit? Belgrade. It’s the most dark and mysterious place and full of secret clubs. It’s intriguing, and we loved that! What’s next on your schedule? We’re off to St Moritz to check out the work on our new store. What would your dream destination entail? It would need to be a far-flung place with loads to cover, maybe Asia or New Zealand. What are your essentials when planning a get-away? We don’t have our travel diary set for the year ahead yet, but first we would definitely need each other and then on back-up a great playlist and plenty of good refreshments. Which one of you calls the shots? Well we never disagree, especially on the important things such as only wanting to go where the sun is shining! We always say ‘follow the sun, that’s where dreams are made and nothing happens under rainy clouds.’ What tip do you have for the holiday season ahead? If possible, make sure someone arrives at the destination before you to make sure things are set-up properly. When you arrive, any potential nasty surprises would have already been smoothed over!

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