Mojeh Magazine Issue no 17 by MOJEH

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Editor in Chief MOJEH IZADPANAH

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Cover shot by Alice Rosati | Styled by Sofia Odero | Model: Andy Nagy at Marilyn Agency wears CHANEL and CHANEL HIGH JEWELLERY

WWW.MOJEH.COM Louis Fourteen for MOJEH Follow us on Twitter @MOJEH_Magazine, www.shopmojeh.com, info@shopmojeh.com MOJEH Swiss Representative Office: Rue de Rive 4, 1204 Geneva, Switzerland Average qualified circulation (January â&#x20AC;&#x201C; June 2013): 13,144 copies. For the UAE printed by Emirates Printing Press LLC. Distribution- UAE: Jashanmal National Company LLC. Qatar: Dar Al Sharq. Bahrain: Jashanmal & Sons BSC (C). Oman: United Media Services LLC The publishers regret that they cannot accept liability for error or omissions contained in this publication, however caused. The opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessary those of the publishers. Readers are advised to seek specialist advice before acting on information contained in this publication which is provided for general use and may not be appropriate for the readers particular circumstances. The ownership of trademark is acknowledged, therefore reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. All credits are subjects to change. Copyright HS MEDIA GROUP FZ LLC 2011

Mojeh

Contents

SOCIETY

MOJEH Snapshots

Dive head first into our festive issue with everything from the perfect winter escape to the must visit jewellery hotspots of the world.

My Stylish Life

Alia Korayem of West L.A Boutique and jewellery aficionados Sabry Marouf divulge their style, travel and grooming must haves.

Woman In Society We chat to Freida Pinto and discover her talents reach far beyond that of acting as she discusses philanthropic endeavour after philanthropic endeavour.

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Hashtag FOMO Discover a modern day epidemic where a Fear Of Missing Out is taking over our social sphere.

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FASHION

64 Mr Happy

MOJEH sits down with fashion’s darling, Alber Elbaz for an exclusive interview and discovers why it’s so important not to take everything so seriously.

The Eternal Hourglass The real woman is back this season as we tell you how to make the most of those feminine curves.

Pure Intentions

Mum, model and muse Doutzen Kroes reveals the secret to her enviable body as we discuss how she juggles a soaring career with a hectic family life.

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The Year That was Take a look back at 2013 with a selection of the year’s most memorable moments.

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ACCESSORIES

152 Most Desired

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Keep up to date with the seasonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most covetable items as we reveal the accessories making waves.

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Eveningwear Edit

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Accessorising your eveningwear has never been easier with a handpicked selection of our favourite things for the season.

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The new gliterrati

The Middle East is fast becoming a contender in the world of Fine Jewellery. We take a look at the heavyweights.

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Seasonal Delights Wear it, gift it, love it. The finest jewels to give to your loved ones this festive season.

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BEAUTY

198

The Coldest Place On Earth

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Testing the waters of the latest craze to hit Dubai; Cryotherapy goes under the microscope.

200 Working It

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The Scent Of Success

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Dior’s J’adore l’Or fragrance comes into its own this season as we chat to the woman behind the perfume’s flowers.

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Gwyneth Paltrow presents the new BOSS Jour fragrance by revealing the secrets behind her revered beauty regime.

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Tame Those Tresses Whether you want your hair up, down, twisted or pinned we tell you how to achieve some truly lust-worthy locks.

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CULTURE

216

Dates For The Diary: Books

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Our list of the only tomes to be adding to your fashion library this winter.

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Dates For The Diary: The Lure Of Beauty

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Dates For The Diary: Through The Lens

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Discover the viewing delights of Dubaiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s upcoming International Film Festival.

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Get lost in 100 years of stunning fashion illustration and photography with the The Lure Of Beauty exhibition in Sharjah. We chat to the showâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s curator.

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Something To Say Emirati artist Karima Al-Shomely on an art form intended to break the mould of misconception.

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Editor’s

Letter

Beautiful Times

Autumn’s Second Skin, Photographed by Riccardo Vimercati

Hands up who feels exhausted (a good kind of exhausted) from the past few months? Everyone? I thought so. 2013 has been a whirlwind of excitement and fashion has had one of its most active years yet. The news just last month that Marc Jacobs is leaving Louis Vuitton topped off a time of musical chairs between the houses, while regionally the announcement of the Dubai Design District and two very successful seasons of Fashion Forward suggest a promising time ahead. And that’s just societal, - I’m confident your own personal and professional endeavours have kept you well and truly on your toes. Time to wipe away the sweat, kick back and relax? Not quite ladies! Instead we’re about to embark on the busiest (and the best) two months yet. This is a time for you to revel in the success of the year gone by and whether it be in celebration of personal achievements or the ones of those around you, enjoy. Don’t shy away from the copious event invites, instead rise to the occasion, be playful with your fashion choices, catch up with old friends and be sure to make many new ones. With that in mind, this issue acts as both applause for the year gone by and preparation for the events to come. Turn to ‘The Year that Was’ for a roundup of all our favourite fashion things or check out ‘Men in MOJEH’, which highlights some of the region’s key players all of whom are on the cusp of international success. Next up, some on-trend style choices ready for those eveningwear purchases you’re about to make - from the perfect dress in which to play hostess to a million ways to embrace this season’s silhouette, choose your style then get lost in our edits of hair and beauty options, ready to covet and complement. We’ve also set aside our winter issue to celebrate all things accessories. What better time could there be than the Christmas period to immerse yourself in an exclusive world of precious things? Wonderful for gifting to your loved ones and even better for adding to your own wish lists, nothing sets off that perfect party gown quite like an heirloom adornment, dazzling and divine against your skin. Whether you indulge in statement pieces from heritage brands or expand your choices with Middle Eastern designers (each undoubtedly adding an air of flamboyance to your look), use our gift guides and accessory edits to see you through the season. This is a time for you. A time to reward yourself and play out the year with the things you find most beautiful – whether that be friends, family, fashion, fine jewellery or, like me, a bit of everything. As Alber Elbaz told us when we met him last month, ‘Beautiful is the only thing that doesn’t go out of fashion.’ Follow me on Twitter and Instagram @Mojeh_I and write to me at editor@mojeh.com

Mojeh Izadpanah Editor in Chief

Mojeh Izadpanah

DUBAI MALL, DUBAI

CENTRIA MALL, RIYADH

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Snapshots

Editor’s

On The As winter encroaches be inspired by the animal kingdom and adopt a ferociously flamboyant attitude to combat the season’s blues. In a palette of misty midnight hues – from blackberry to brilliant azure – animal accents are the key to staying on trend. Whether it’s a plumed clutch, birds of a feather inspired hem or a brooch paying homage to our insect friends, be inspired by Mother Nature and let her inherent beauty do all the talking. 1. Boucheron | 2,3. chanel | 4. vera wang @netaporter. com | 5. louis vuitton | 6. jimmy choo | 7. elie saab | 8. loewe, Aura Loewe | 9. Tiffany&Co | 10. CH CAROLINA HERRERA | 11. MARY Katrantzou @MATCHESFASHION. com | 12. Mulberry | 13. Tory Burch

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All from the Gilded New York exhibition at the Museum of the City of New York.

Bejewelled Happenings There is no better season in which to indulge in the exquisite grandeur of jewellery than the festive season and the coming months see a host of events ideally suited to the occasion. In the Big Apple, the Gilded New York exhibition opens Nov 13 at the Museum of the City of New York. Taking visitors on a visual journey through the wealth of culture experienced at the end of the 19th century, the exhibition marks the inauguration of the museum’s Tiffany & Co. Foundation Gallery and is set to be laden with ornate jewels, lavish costumes and aristocratic portraits. Meanwhile, a few blocks over at Sotheby’s of New York, The Extraordinary Jewellery of Alexandre Reza will be on display from Nov 2-14 as part of the auctioneer’s autumn collections. The show will then travel across to London and Doha in 2014, and will present some of the world’s rarest gemstones set in unique designs alongside new pieces from Alexandre’s son, Olivier. A true example of jewellery legacy. For an experience closer to home, Dubai International Jewellery Week (Dec 4-7) at the Dubai World Trade Centre will offer an insight into the vast and eclectic history of Middle Eastern jewellery. From emerging designers to investment pieces destined to become family heirlooms, the fair is certain to satisfy every haute joaillerie craving and will provide endless opportunity to add to a private collection. 1. Tiffany & Co., Brooch, ca. 1900. 22k gold, sapphires, zircons, enamel. Tiffany & Co. Archives, A2001.09 | 2. Tiffany & Co., Brooch, ca. 1900. Platinum, gold, diamonds, pearls, Burmese ruby, demantoid garnets, sapphires. Tiffany & Co. Archives, A2000.16 | 3. Tiffany & Co., Dog collar necklace, 1904. 20k gold, diamonds, pearls, turquoise, enamel. Tiffany & Co. Archives, A1999.51

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A Swiss Jewel We all love a little bit of bling and so, to open our special jewellery issue, we’ve discovered the type of gem that only comes around every so often. The latest phone from Savelli, a Geneva based brand creating objects of desire for the international woman, combines the notions of Haute Joaillerie and Couture with the technological advancements of the 21st century, resulting in a gadget unlike any seen before. Fusing precious stones with 18-carat gold and exotic skins, the Savelli phone not only helps with day to day communications but also adds an eyecatching element to a winter ensemble. Inspired by the Line of Grace, this piece of art comes with state of the art features including specially commissioned ringtones and a concierge service tailored specifically to its owner - so it’s not just a pretty face.

Colour Me In Landing in everyone’s wardrobe this season is a piece of clothing that will not only keep us warm as we brave the winter chill but will also help turn any look into a sure fire winner. Perhaps not entirely suited to a desert clime, a coloured fur – whether it be a jacket, a full-on coat or simply a shrug – is the perfect accoutrement when travelling the globe in search of authentic festive spirit. A favourite among fashion editors, the choices are endless. Opt for a shot of pink on the collar of a similarly hued leather jacket or go all the way with a brightly toned coat. For those looking for less impact, a mere trim should suffice, adding just the right amount of attitude without venturing into the wilderness.

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Grind It Every season the fragrance industry champions one particular note over the rest and this winter we think we’ve found the best yet. Hailing from the world of sugar and spice, pepper can be found littering its way through this season’s most covetable fragrances. From Byredo’s 1996 Inez and Vinoodh, which sees the seasoning mingle with loaded notes of leather and toffee, through to Givenchy’s Dahlia Noir Le Bal, where a more feminine route can be found with the lingering musk of vanilla and rose. Loewe’s Aura offering sees a spicy pink pepper take the lead over redcurrant and white jasmine, and we simply can’t help but love it. There is nothing better than a perfume that is intriguing to passers by and a hint of peppery spice is sure to do it with scented style.

Once, Twice, Three Times a Lady Despite its rebellious streak, a distinctly ladylike undercurrent can be found wending its way through AW13. As street style often says more about the real trends than those we pluck from the catwalks it would seem that a sophisticated, feminine and ultimately dainty silhouette is back in full force for the winter months. Tutu-esque, a-line skirts are a must, cut just below the knee for a respectful yet secretly seductive feel, with cashmere jumpers and long-sleeved satin crops making for the perfect accompaniments. For a personal twist, look to accessories, where a playful statement necklace or a bright pop of colour brings the look up to date. Hair and makeup should be kept sleek and simple and a swipe of baby pink blush will make it look as though you’ve just been swept off your feet – which, in this look, is more than likely.

From top to bottom, left to right images courtesy of : © Puksic, Janez/The Food Passionates/Corbis

Photograph courtesy of Kaitlin Rebesco at www.kaitlinrebesco.com

Big Bang Jeans. Chronograph in steel adorned with 114 diamonds totalling 1.22 carats. Dial in genuine blue jean material set with 8 diamonds. Strap in blue jean material fused with rubber. Limited edition of 250 pieces. www.hublot.com â&#x20AC;˘

twitter.com/hublot â&#x20AC;˘

facebook.com/hublot

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Noël Noël Like a duvet for the daytime, festive inspired knitwear will keep you on-trend and free from any winter woes this season. 1. MARKUS LUPFER @matchesfashion.com | 2. MULBERRY | 3. J.CREW @net-a-porter.com

A Chill in the Air See something you like? So do we and we intend to while away as many hours as we can during the forthcoming winter months residing within the walls of The Alpina hotel in Gstaad. Set upon a hill top area in Oberbort the five star resort boasts not only a hotel but also 14 apartments and two private chalets for those that really want to bed down for the winter. Offering magnificent views of the snow-covered Bernese Alps, this prestigious palace is sure to leave guests feeling rested, fulfilled and yearning for the next hibernation season to return. With fabulously authentic décor - including wood-burning fires, ski-chalet inspired eaves and beds that make you certain you’ll never be seen on two feet again – the hotel is a cosy mountainside bolthole filled with gastronomic delights that are renowned throughout the region. For an even deeper sense of relaxation make sure you pay a visit to their spa, where a day can easily be lost to lingering massages, mountain-fresh facials and detox wraps that will see you return home with an even bigger spring in your step. As the first to be built in the region for over 100 years, this hotel is paradise in the making.

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Style

My Stylish Life

Alia Korayem, owner of West L.A. boutique.

Alia at her home in Downtown Dubai.

Egyptian by birth, with family in Saudi Arabia and an adolescence spent in the hubbub of Los Angeles, Alia Korayemâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s affiliation with the world of fashion started at a mere three years of age. Moving to Dubai, she sought to bring the carefree attitude of California to the UAE, opening her now famed boutique, West L.A, in 2012. Celebrating her first year behind the wheel, Alia has recently launched a couture collection inspired by her late grandmother, which is certain to take her and the brand to the next level.

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From top to bottom, left to right, images courtesy of: Gareth Copley/Staff. All Getty Images.

Motto to live by: Just go for it | One piece of advice I would give to anyone: Being you is as normal as you can ever be and it’s the only way to be happy on a daily basis | Hidden Talent: Skate boarding | Lifelong ambition: WEST L.A. taking over the world | Best childhood memory: Afternoon walks with my Mum | One thing I can’t live without: My family | Most loved fairytale character: The Little Mermaid | Biggest vice: I’m too compulsive | Person I’d like to be: My mother | One thing that money can’t buy: Great friends, happiness and an amazing family | Most treasured belonging: My grandmother’s wedding earrings given to her by my grandfather | Heaven is to me: Late-night movies at home with family and friends | Early Bird or Night Owl: Early bird | Person I look up to: My mother | How do I relax: A long warm shower and Pilates every morning

Beauty/Make-up must haves: Eye liner and mascara | Signature scent: Dior Addict | Go to beauty brand: SKII | Top moisturiser: La Mer | Manicure style: Short French tip | Favourite hairstyle: Super straight with a little volume at the top | Fresh Faced or Full Glamour: Fresh faced | Bad hair day product: Loads of hair spray | Style Icon: Katherine Hepburn | My style: A mix of tomboy grunge infused with 50’s glamour | Best purchase: My very own customised WEST L.A. couture gown | Favourite designers: UNIF | Wardrobe staples: Oversized knitted sweaters and denim shorts | Ultimate accessory: Stack on tennis bracelets | Most treasured wardrobe item: My great grandmother’s dress that inspired the WEST L.A. couture collection | Heels or flats: Neither – wedge sneakers | Favourite pair of shoes: Jeffrey Campbell high tops | Best fashion moment: Debuting the WEST L.A. couture collection on our one year anniversary

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Style

My Stylish Life

Daki Marouf and Ahmed Sabry, Founders of Sabry Marouf.

Daki and Ahmed in their home in Cairo, Egypt.

Based in Cairo, designer Ahmed Sabry joined forces with managing partner Daki Marouf back in 2009 to launch their progressive, high fashion jewellery brand. Known for taking inspiration from Egyptâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s rich heritage, their designs are both elegant yet trend setting, eye-catching while remaining beautiful. As the attention of the world comes knocking, we find out what makes this stylish duo tick.

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AHMED One piece of advice I would give to anyone: Nothing is ever what it seems | Hidden talent: Impersonations | One thing I can’t live without: Love | Biggest vice: Gossip | One thing that money can’t buy: Health | Most desired belonging: A beach house in Santorini | Early Bird or Night Owl: Vampire | I relax by: Watching vintage Egyptian movies | Favourite movie: Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom | Favourite meal: Spaghetti Bolognaise | Favourite place in the world: Our studio | Grooming must haves: Philips’ Multi Groom Kit | Signature scent: Chanel’s Egoist Platinum | Top moisturiser: Anthony Logistic’s Moisturiser | Bad hair day product: Toni & Guy Sea Salt Spray | Style Icon: Jude Law | My style: Sexy sleek, sometimes hipster chic | Best purchase: Burberry Prorsum cotton-sateen trench coat | Favourite designer: Alexander McQueen | Ultimate accessory: My solid titanium Sabry Marouf ring | Best fashion moment: The successful launch of Armure at Cairo’s Fashion Night | Favourite store: Liberty London

From top to bottom, left to right, images courtesy of: Pascal Le Segretain/Staff, Rob Loud/Stringer. All Getty Images.

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Motto to live by: Everything’s nothing, and nothing is ours | Lifelong ambition: Sky rocketing success | Best childhood memory: Family vacations in Chios | Most loved fairytale character: Alice in Wonderland | Most treasured belonging: My piano | Heaven is to me: Balmy summer nights by the sea | Most desired belonging: A Catamaran yacht | I collect: Seeds and seashells | Best discovery: The deepest depths of my mind | Favourite book: Maurice Merleau-Ponty’s ‘Phenomology of Perception’ | Favourite restaurant: Yauatcha, London | Favourite city: New York, New York! | Favourite artistic expression: Fashion and architecture | Grooming must haves: Braun Trimmer and Shaver | Signature scent: Voyage D’Hermès | Top moisturiser: La Prairie | Style Icon: David Bowie | My style: Hipster high fashion | Best purchase: Christian Audigier overnight bag | Ultimate accessory: Sabry Marouf rose gold cufflinks | Most treasured wardrobe item: Brioni tailored blazer | Favourite pair of shoes: Gucci lace-up military boots | Best fashion moment: Chatting with Nicola Formichetti during PFW SS13

“Sled” by Rodolfo Dordoni and Cassina. Design first. PF Emirates Interiors LLC Downtown Dubai T +971 4 339 7111 – Corniche Abu Dhabi T +971 2 635 9393 A Mubadala Development Company – Poltrona Frau Group Joint Venture

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Celebrated Woman in Society

Freida Pinto

Image courtesy of Pascal Le Segretain, Getty Images.

As the Dubai International Film Festival approaches once again, we sit down with one of its regular patrons, Freida Pinto, to talk about her charitable endeavours, film projects and connection to the Middle East.

Belles

Society Image courtesy of Pascal Le Segretain, Getty Images.

hen it comes to Middle Eastern culture, Freida Pinto is no foreigner. Whether it be through lending her support to the region’s various film festivals, or through her acting as indigenous characters from this region in some of her most highly acclaimed work, Freida has gained significant insights in the history and culture of the region and has visited more times than most actors of her international stature do. When asked if she would ever consider calling the Middle East “home” given how often she is here, she replied, ‘I would love to! Why not? I guess the timing has to be right for that. It’s definitely a very fascinating place.’ We met the actress on one of her recent visits and learned how, through her acting and humanitarian causes, she champions the rights of women and brings social issues, such as violence and injustice, to the foreground. Pinto plays a lead role in the upcoming film, Desert Dancer, a biopic set in Iran and based on the real life of dancer Afshin Ghaffarian. In the film, she plays the part of Elaheh, a dancer who inspires Afshin in his illegal, underground dance company in Tehran, a role for which Freida had to undergo rigorous dance training for 14 weeks. The role adds to the list of dramatic and often intense parts that have been offered to Freida. In 2010, she

played the title character in Miral, another biopic based on the life of Rula Jebreal, a Palestinian who grew up in the West Bank and witnessed injustice and hardships among Palestinian refugee camps. Black Gold, released in 2011 at the Doha Tribeca Film Festival, saw Freida playing the role of Arabian Princess Leyla, caught in the power struggle of rivalling Emirs over oil. Acting the part of a young, ethnic woman amid a setting of conflict is something that Freida knows all too well. What you might not know about her is that beyond the red carpets and brand endorsements, Freida is one of the most active celebrities on the female rights frontier. In 2012, Plan International named her as their global ambassador for the Because I Am A Girl (BIAAG) campaign. Her responsibilities included visiting impoverished children in Ethiopia to encourage them to reach their fullest potential. She has also visited children in Sierra Leone with the Girls Making Media Project, an initiative advocating for children’s rights to an education, as well as slum kids that are part of Plan International’s free education program in her homeland of India. At Oxfam and Dubai Cares’ One Night to Change Lives Charity Gala last year, the actress auctioned off her Valentino gown, which inspired the event’s host Colin Firth to also auction off his tuxedo.

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This year has seen the actress-turned-activist co-narrate the documentary, Girl Rising, and even host the pre-Oscars Vanity Fair Campaign event in support of the film and its 10X10 Girl Rising Initiative for the education of girls around the world. She also appeared in Gucci’s Chime for Change, to raise funds and awareness of women’s issues in terms of education, health and justice. When the horrific Delhi gang rape case left the world in shock last year, Freida spoke out publicly on CNN to call for justice, stating that she grew up with the fear that this could happen to her. It is no wonder that Freida was also part of Emma Thompson’s My Safe Place charity that campaigns to end violence against women. As we approach the 10th Dubai International Film Festival, we reflect on the role the festival has played in Freida’s career. She made her international debut in Dubai

back in December of 2008, when Slumdog Millionaire had its gala screening at the Dubai International Film Festival. The film went on to receive tremendous success worldwide, including winning 8 Oscars - Freida and her cast members received a BAFTA award and she was internationally recognized as one of ‘the most beautiful women in the world’ by People magazine. Just four years later, she was invited by the same festival to be a member of the Jury. Since then, Freida has established an international career, having appeared in Hollywood blockbusters including Rise of the Planet of The Apes and Immortals, as well as indie films like Trishna and Woody Allen’s You Will Meet a Tall Dark Stranger. When asked which role taught her the most, Freida states that she has learned something from every role she has played, ‘whether it’s learning

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about a character’s culture or learning technical stuff that happens on a film set.’ She is curious about attempting comedy next and thinks she is ready for it. She also stated that she is open to acting in a Bollywood film. ‘There are some amazing filmmakers in Bollywood. I really liked Kahani actually. I just thought the filmmaking, the direction, the music, the performances - everything was on a whole new level and very, very superior.’ As a Jury member at the Ninth Dubai International Film Festival, Freida joined Screen International’s Mark Adams and Emirati filmmaker Nayla Al Khaja in judging short films from the Arab, Asia-Africa and Emirati categories. ‘I think film festivals are one of those places where you can’t lie about your love for cinema,’ she states. She bonded well with her fellow Jury members, declaring that ‘as a team, we work brilliantly together, and we’ve always all been on the same page throughout, almost all the time. Just the fact that I have a voice and they are listening to me is important.’ ‘I’m actually so fascinated by what Nayla Al Khaja does - she’s a force to reckon with and I just wish her more power. And Mark Adams has the most amazing experience, but at the same time, what I really love about Mark is that he doesn’t feel like his job is to trash a film

just because he’s a critic. He always sees the good in something, even if it isn’t necessarily that good. It’s nice to see that balance in today’s film critics.’ We begin to bid farewell to Freida as she is about to jet off again. With such a busy schedule between her work and charitable causes, where can she now call home? ‘You would think that home would be where you feel absolutely settled, but I don’t feel settled anywhere in the world because I’m constantly traveling. I’m like the nomad that goes from one place to another, wherever the films take me. Because of that situation, I’ve taught myself to make wherever I am for that short period of time, home.’ As we are set to leave, we can’t help but admire how gracious and balanced Freida is. We wonder out loud if she ever wishes that she could have done things differently, and based on her reply, it is easy to understand why she is so actively involved in her role as a humanitarian: ‘I think that if you do have any sort of regrets, it’s ok to have them because you’re not supposed to live a life that is absolutely pleasant from beginning to end. If you don’t have those down moments, you never learn. If you do something wrong, hopefully you have it in you to right it in the future.’

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Hashtag

FOMO Are we all gripped by the fear of missing out? Why four letters are ruling our lives and our diaries.

We may be entering the universally declared Party Season, but for the average girl-abouttown, every season is party season. It should mean glittering nights of fabulous fashion and good company but for many of us it’s a minefield of stress. There’s invariably a double booking for the evening’s festivities, a delayed meeting that means instead of the perfectly coiffed hair planned, it’s a last minute ‘up do’ and, to top it all off, the equally important occasions that your respective friends will kill you for not attending are on polar opposite sides of town. But you must go. Not just to placate those friends, but because not going will certainly mean waking up in that elusive land of tomorrow to thousands of Instagram pictures of fun fun fun, missed scandal (‘She said what?!’ ‘Oh, you had to be there’) and passive aggressive emails about how it’s a ‘shame’ you couldn’t find the time. Or so you think. What you have is FOMO, Fear of Missing Out. It’s the epidemic of the modern age and more crippling than Bird Flu. As much as it’s made connectivity easier, is a cathartic outlet for the ‘oversharers’ among us and has given everyone the opportunity to display their lunch order with pride, social media has a lot to answer for. In the world of Twitter, Facebook and Instagram, an existential crisis lurks behind every cyber corner, brought on by the sight of an overly enthusiastic status update or filtered, frivolity-filled picture from that event that you just couldn’t make. It’s created a social anxiety so acute that, from

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Talking

You have to remind yourself that NMO (Not Missing Out) has no F in it, and the F missing is Fun.

this year, FOMO has its own wiki page and a place in the Oxford Dictionary. Up there with LOL and BFF. After finding a distinctly unscientific FOMO test online, a quick MOJEH HQ poll found that most of us are sufferers. Considering we’re all occasionally guilty of raising our iPhones before we’ve raised a glass, who knew? But like all anxieties, the first step to conquering it, is recognising it. Once you’ve overcome that particular hurdle, you’re better placed to rid yourself of the unwanted FOMO in your life. Firstly, like the notion that leaving the store with just two dresses is progress in kicking your shopping addiction or that there’s such a thing as a low-cal Frapuccino (saying no to cream doesn’t make it better), FOMO is founded on lies. Regardless of how early the alarm is going off or the fact you’ve already had two lunch meetings by noon, those meetings, events and get-togethers you feel the need to squeeze into your already busy life rarely meet expectations. Secondly you have to remind yourself that NMO (Not Missing Out) has no F in it, and the F missing is Fun. Being the person who makes it to every occasion, gets at least one snap from every party and manages to skillfully avoid any overt repeats on the wardrobe front is incredibly hard work. The social arts are far from effortless and after a month of late nights, scheduled-to-the-minute days and hurried shopping trips for yet another look, you’ll start to wonder why you’re bothering. Your Instagram wall will look amazing but you’ll feel as though it’s built from bricks of sheer, grinding effort - not the easy, breezy snapshots of life that it’s supposed to be. So it would seem that the lesson we all need to learn is simple. That all of the fun in the world needn’t be ours for the taking and that, despite what that status update, tweet or album is forcing us to believe, perhaps on occasion we should be HSI – Happy Sitting In. Advice that we’re definitely going to take onboard. Once we check what everyone else is up to.

Fashion

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Mr Happy

Seemingly on a mission to make the fashion industry smile, MOJEH has a giggle with the innovator behind Lanvin’s soaring success. Funny man Alber Elbaz talks AW13, YouTube hits and the helping hand he extends to women everywhere.

ho doesn’t know Alber Elbaz? No The effect is instantaneous. This is a collection one? Good, that’s what we thought based on the notion of having fun, with girls because you’d have to have been looking as though they’ve just left the most living under a rock not to know. The man lavish of parties or spent hours playing dress with the famous dicky bow, frames to rival up with a boxful of treasures. Looks cross a pensioner’s and self-deprecating humour between night and day, day and night – who has, quite frankly, become one of the most cares when you wear them? – with silhouettes influential designers of our era. Infiltrating that are relaxed yet elegant, looks that are into the wardrobes of women everywhere put-together but look just-thrown-on. For with designs intended to make them happy, Alber this was ‘about a woman with a lot Elbaz knows his woman, he loves his woman of propositions,’ he tells us. ‘It’s a story of and his woman loves him right back. ‘I do questions, of today, of women and of the adore women,’ he confirms with a twinkle, changes in their life and in fashion.’ And these ‘but making them changes were palpable. beautiful is a difficult The first look paid homage to the roaring business.’ It’s February in Paris and Twenties, layered, ruffled This is a collection Elbaz is on the brink of and dropped, while the based on the notion presenting his AW13 second took inspiration collection. We’re all from the tracksuit, of having fun. only baring floral dolled up in our finest, appliqué instead of the sipping on champers quintessential running and nibbling popcorn as we wait for the lights to dim. Always the stripes. Onto the third and we have a Fifties thoughtful gentleman, the designer would cocktail dress complete with 3D insect décor never let his merry men go hungry musing in a classic, demure, feminine style which that ‘it’s better to be welcomed with food is then instantly turned on its head by the and drink after a whole day of running fourth look, where a structured shirt in rigid around than sit there starving.’ Wise words leather is paired with a set of men’s oxfords. and ones that resonate well with a fashion Masculinity intermingled with femininity, a pack craving for a Big Mac at the end of every paradox that Elbaz created based on intuition hectic day. As editors take their seats and and his fearless approach to experimentation. the music starts pumping from above our This idiosyncratic and ever-changing element excitement is piqued as the first girl turns the persisted throughout the collection, with corner and moves steadily into the spotlight. models made-up according to their personal

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preference and the most ornate and lavish inspiration,’ he tells us by way of explanation. details – tumultuous ruffles, bold, graphic, ‘I need words. I’m not a writer, but that’s colourful prints and the silkiest of satins – what takes me forward, that’s what moves shown in tandem with strict tailoring, military me, that’s what inspires me,’ and this season belted jackets and hues best suited to the he chose to place that inspiration front right City. This juxtaposition could even be found and centre. Happy, Love, Cool and Help within one look, between top and bottom, were recreated in thick, golden, sans-serif front and back, inner and outer. But for those script and hung from solid golden chains or thinking this melee of ideas could become stamped into the buckles of belts. It was a too much, you’d be wrong. The result was a message to look, listen and think, with each soaring feeling that we were finally free, to be word chosen for its own particular meaning. who we wanted and act in whatever way we ‘Help is one of those things that we are all saw fit. For Elbaz, as expected, it was all about looking for today,’ Elbaz reflects, ‘and we all making us beautiful, ‘because beautiful is the need Love and to be Happy. There is no other only thing that doesn’t go out of fashion,’ says word that I hate more than Cool but that’s the designer. ‘Beautiful is always modern and why I used it, because I am allergic to Cool.’ this season was all about going back to a local Whatever their purpose, these words proved collection, not just a global show,’ thereby to do one thing over and above anything else creating something for and that was to make the front row, and the oodles everyone. It was also the season where Elbaz felt of Lanvin customers ‘I always say that it necessary to return to around the world, break the real root of Lanvin – out in a tooth-baring, for me words are ear-splitting grin. A a Parisian couture house the greatest source where he can take time smile, which only served over his creations in a to demonstrate Elbaz’s of inspiration.’ laboratory of ideas. ‘ true ethos of design - that I decided this time to fashion should be a hoot. do less technology and Lanvin’s creative director more technique,’ he expands. ‘Normally I is no stranger to making people titter. It’s an love seamstresses but I hate seams but here element of his character and his approach to I loved the seamstresses and the seams’. A the industry that he’s become known for and change of heart instigated by his desire to let one that has helped put the French fashion the craftsmanship of this age-old tradition house back at the forefront of design. From shine forth, and shine it did. becoming a YouTube sensation in a campaign From the larger than life 3D bugs that were video – where he rather comically danced encrusted on to tops and dresses through alongside Raquel Zimmermann and Karen to the intricate stitching of a millefeuille Elson to Pitbull’s I Know You Want Me (if you ruffle and the carefree use of fun-infused haven’t seen it, Google it now) - to belting prints – ‘If I make you a big-volume skirt in out Que Sera Sera at the finale to his 10th butterfly print you will have butterflies in anniversary runway show, Elbaz knows how your closet!’ he chuckles - the devil really was important it is to laugh. ‘People in fashion in the detail and none more so than in the think that if you want to sell your products words Elbaz chose to emblazon across the you have to be serious,’ says the maestro. ‘But chests and waists of his girls. ‘I always say why? A smile doesn’t make sales?’ and he’s that for me words are the greatest source of right. During the time that Elbaz has been

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Lanvin AW13

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at the helm, Lanvin has transitioned from saw designer Tom Ford unceremoniously being an almost-forgotten-about-couture- pluck Elbaz from his perch to take over the house to a much-coveted ticket at fashion reins himself - leaving his predecessor in week. People want a piece of his infectiously a state of flux, undecided on his place in positive attitude to life and in times of the industry. After two years of travelling hardship who better to turn to than a designer around Asia, and toying with the idea of whose dresses are destined to lift those spirits? retraining as a doctor - ‘I think you need And this incredibly realistic approach to the to follow your dreams and your intuition,’ industry is just one more feather in Elbaz’s cap he ponders. ‘Because if I cannot dream, I’d rather do something else in my life,’ - Elbaz that stands him apart from the rest. ‘I want to make women’s lives easier in got back on the fashion horse in 2001 when designing clothes that make them happy,’ he the opportune position surfaced at Lanvin, explains. ‘Women are fragile but the media a house with a long history but one that says they have to be the ideal woman. They required a new and individual outlook for try to do everything - to stay thin, to be its survival. There was no one better suited beautiful, to be successful, to be the best at for the role. The rest, as they say, is history work, at home, a great wife and a wonderful but it is this slightly downtrodden element to mother. It’s hard to be a woman today. They Elbaz’s rise that has given him the refreshing need help and I want my clothes to give women outlook he possesses today. ‘Fashion and the freedom to just be – I business are not enemies,’ he tells us. want them to put on my ‘In order to make a dresses and shine.’ ‘I think you need to Born in Casablanca business, you have to follow your dreams before moving to Tel have a story and the Aviv at the tender age one thing I want to do and your intuition.’ more than anything is of ten, Elbaz’s road to success wasn’t as easy to see a transformation as one might expect. of personality when Brought up with little money, his first foray someone puts on one of my dresses. I’m not into the world of fashion began at school, a plastic surgeon and I cannot change the when he started sketching his teacher’s DNA of a person, but when I see a woman outfits on a daily basis. At the age of 18 he try on my clothes and she feels beautiful, I spent three years in mandatory army service know I am doing my job.’ after which he enrolled at the Shenkar Having been at the helm of Lanvin for over College of Textile Technology and Fashion. At 10 years now, it is safe to say that he is doing 25 he took a leap of faith and moved to the Big that job well. Ask him what he thinks fashion Apple. Getting his big break as the assistant is really about and he simply answers that we to New York institution Geoffrey Beene, he should ‘be free to do what we want and not then moved to Guy Laroche in Paris and be afraid to be different.’ Advice he clearly finally onto YSL, a role he was specifically takes to heart, for this is the man whose headhunted for by Pierre Bergé. Brought on AW13 offering will see us wearing butterflies board to design the Rive Gauche RTW line, it and beetles to dinner. An unexpected lark was here that the road became a little rocky. in an otherwise demure season. As they say, Unbeknown to Elbaz, the house was on the there’s a lot to be said for not taking it all so brink of being sold to the Gucci Group which seriously and Elbaz says it better than anyone.

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The Perfect Hostess Zero-hassle cocktail dresses are perfect for parties and dinners this AW; Peter Pilotto offers engineered prints to distract guests from any chaotic mishaps while a shift dress by Victoria Beckham exhudes effortless minimalism. Embellished details like a deep blue Elie Saab clutch and diamond encrusted Harry Winston watch will aid organisation and reflect your meticulous hosting skills.

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Closet Comforts Comfort and luxury go hand in hand this season as loungewear is made fit for going out. Pay attention to key fabrics like soft silks and lavish lace, adding a touch of seduction and sensuality to your wardrobe. Introduce overlays of patterns with a classic Rochas print or a jacquard Paul & Joe coat, while an Elizabeth and James mauve frock and Boucheron jewels promise to glam up your boudoir attire.

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9. ROCHAS @net-a-porter.com | 10. PAUL & JOE @net-a-porter.com | 11. LOUIS VUITTON | 12. ELIZABETH AND JAMES

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Fashion

Alberta Ferretti

The Eternal Hourglass

Designers across the globe, from Raf Simons at Dior to Miuccia Prada and Jason Wu, are celebrating the female form this season. Through worshiping the woman’s shape with their cinched in cuts and waist-line detailing – seen across work wear, outerwear and eveningwear - they’re proving that the hourglass will forever be a muse.

he Woman in AW13 is sensual and oozing with confidence, has a penchant for a tight waist and most importantly, she celebrates her body. Designers are acknowledging a generation of independent and empowered women and this season the demands of these women take shape, quite literally. The desirable hourglass has remained emblematic throughout fashion history, with the traditional female figure being revisited time and again, but the past quarter century has witnessed an oscillation between the androgynous and the curvaceous as the feminine ‘ideal’. For winter however there’s no more hiding underneath your boyfriend’s blazer or covering your curves in an oversized smock - instead designers are doing all they can to keep our form voluptuous and on show.

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Fashion Jean Paul Gaultier

Sculptrue of lace bustier. Museum of Lace and Fashion.

The iconic hourglass was originally introduced during Elizabethan England, when women enhanced their curves with corsetry, bustles and layer-upon-layer of structured petticoats in an effort to contour the torso. Over time, underwear became more advanced and elaborate, even worn more recently as outerwear for those with enough elegance to pull it off. From its birth however, the corset has served as a template from which designers continue to draw inspiration and lend structure to their influential looks. No longer the symbol of female oppression, as it was in the early 19th century, the corset today represents liberation. Dame Vivienne Westwood notably reinvented the corset in the Seventies and the garment has since become a staple of her work. In the Nineties, Madonna created a landmark fashion moment during her Blonde Ambition tour by wearing a cone-shaped Jean Paul Gaultier corset – it has since become a signature of Gaultier’s, seen time and again in ‘those’ perfume bottles. Fast-forward a few decades and there’s a list longer than a catwalk of designers who are investing their efforts in reviving the hourglass shape. We need not look farther than the red carpet to witness the Marilyn Monroes of our time - Rachel Weisz, Scarlett Johansson and Julianne Moore - with their wasp waists and curves in all the right places, coveting the shape that women envy and men admire. Production methods have changed however, and where we may have once relied on a laced-up basque to create a shapely look, today’s design army utilises fabric and design technique – dramatic ruffling, engineered prints or metal made accessories - to create the effect. Seasonally appropriate, this familiar trend has not only been placed into our favourite winter pieces, coats, jackets and cover-ups, but has also been tailored to suit our extravagant eveningwear needs through beautiful gowns and couture creations. Whether it’s to compliment the figure, emphasise one’s strong point or deflect attention from those parts we’d rather not showcase, there’s plenty of waist-defining options to choose from this winter.

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Gucci

Follow Suit Tailoring is so frequently associated with generic office wear and so often limited to subdued shades of black, grey and navy. While the colour palette remains somewhat compulsory for a professional working environment though no one said that shape had to be so conventional. Those who equate sturdy masculine fabrics and boxy blandness with the modern workingwoman find themselves corrected this season â&#x20AC;&#x201C; this winter, the Forties predominantly influences work attire and alpha females can now inject power into their office look by adopting a retro attitude. Stella McCartney took the lead by fusing together both masculinity and femininity with pinstriped separates in generous proportions to create a nonchalant sensibility of elegance and girl power. It was the technique that captured our attention as fabrics were pinned and then draped to accentuate the female silhouette while adding a playful tone. Tomas Maier at Bottega Veneta demonstrated his understanding of the female body by experimenting with volume, using pleats and thin black belts to add shape. He also offered seductive appeal with his choice of wool in jet black - usually deemed a little dour â&#x20AC;&#x201C; which in this case proved glamorous and elegant. Dolce and Gabbana utilised herringbone tweed for their skirt suits using an extra layer of fabric to highlight the waist, ideal for Hitchcockian women everywhere. Meanwhile, peplum jackets and body-con dresses proved that new mum Frida Giannini is pro-curves with soft silks and skin tight looks outlining the hourglass shape at Gucci.

Dior

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Fashion Miroslava Duma

That’s a Wrap

Oscar de la Renta

Choosing the perfect winter coat can prove a difficult feat - we have to consider warmth, style and most importantly fit before we can even begin to contemplate which colours will suit our skin complexion. This season the hourglass coat took to the catwalk in all shades, patterns and fabrics, each pursuing a film noir sensibility for outerwear. For years designers have relied on belted coats to create curvaceous masterpieces, and this season is no different. Fabrics are coarse, colours are rich and the prevailing shape may be A-line, but the belt – whether thick, thin, ribboned or origamied – still maketh the coat. Christopher Bailey continues to adapt Thomas Burberry’s timeless trench, using gold metal belts to underline the waist and patchwork, translucent sleeves to modify its classic design. Nastya Kusakina opened at Oscar de la Renta with a powerful teal coat that played with new dimensions by offering a triangular peplum at the waistline, drawn in with a black, snake-like belt. Double-breasted styles were on the agenda in New York with Donna Karan playing with proportions as enlarged rounded shoulders were offset against waists that were nipped in with buttons and a soft, slender curve. Off the catwalks and onto the streets, we spotted endless trendsetters roaming the fashion week tents, including Russian beauty Miroslava Duma, who bared the chill in Paris with a floral cut-out trench fastened tightly to cinch the waist for a fit and flare effect. So once the perfect winter companion is purchased and you step out into the cold city streets of your European vacay, remember to buckle up. Our advice, the tighter the trendier.

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Fashion Georges Hobeika

Into the Night

Ermanno Scervino

Whether itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a wedding, awards gala or black tie event, eveningwear is all about looking polished and chic and in order to truly hit 2013â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s trend spot on, opt for a rendition that leans towards mid-century shapes. Designers may have varied their inspirations, themes and structures, but one factor remained emphasis was on the waist in both ready-to-wear and couture. At Elie Saab, fitted bodices and full-bodied skirts stepped straight from the ballrooms of the 18th century. Rich jewel toned dresses were delicately sprinkled with sequins, which were clustered and layered around the waistline to further accentuate the strong silhouette. Meanwhile, Raf Simons at Dior blended varying eras with opposing cultures to breathe new life into couture. Prints were strong, but layers, patchworks and pleating carried the dresses as two-tiered gowns hit the runway alongside fallen peplums, sheers laced in chiffons and two-pieces woven together with layers of delicate ribbon or robust metal. Whatever the detail, one factor remained â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the starting point was the waistline and everything else merely acted as backup. Away from couture, ready-to-wear designers also showcased timeless and elegant gowns, with just as much body conscious vigour. Ermanno Scervino sent subtle sexiness down the runway with delicate ruffles placed across the midriff, while a playful collection from Vera Wang presented razor sharp silhouettes made from swathes of jacquard in burnt oranges and deep violets. From New York to Paris the words Femininity and Elegance were echoing across the globe as collections regained their silhouette.

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Dressed To Kill For the woman with a winter schedule packed full of extravagant events, look to Jenny Packham, Marchesa and Alexander McQueen to sate your eveningwear desires. Marry ball gowns with elegant sandals by Gianvito Rossi to welcome in the New Year in style, and polish things off with elaborate brilliant-white diamonds from jewellery aficionados Cartier and Chaumet.

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8. MARCHESA @Stylebop.com | 9. CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN | 10. CARTIER | 11. GIANVITO ROSSI @net-a-porter.com | 12. CORTO MOLTEDO

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A Royal Affair Nothing emulates royalty quite like rich ruby hues and floor-length gowns, so opt for Issa or classic black Marchesa for an outfit that reflects a majestic lifestyle. Gold statement earrings by Cartier or a diamond encrusted Piaget watch will polish off the look naturally, while Corto Moltedo is essential for adding edge.

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8. MARCHESA @net-a-porter.com | 9. TEMPERLEY LONDON @net-a-porter.com | 10. JIMMY CHOO | 11. ELIE SAAB | 12. TORY BURCH

Interview

Mojeh

Pure intentions

Doutzen Kroes is using her position as one of the most sought-after models to make the world a healthier, happier place. MOJEH meets the supermodel to talk fashion, family and giving back.

outzen Kroes, Victoria’s Secret Angel and the world’s fifth-highest-paid model (just behind Gisele Bündchen and Kate Moss), is a family girl at heart. She lives with her husband DJ Sunnery James and their two-year-old son, Phyllon. Sometimes they are in New York, sometimes in Amsterdam. Theirs is a thoroughly modern relationship, which often involves their agents making dates for them and making sure they have family time. ‘My husband travels much more than I do,’ Kroes told me on the phone from her home in Amsterdam one July evening. She had arrived back from shooting in New York that morning and had just put Phyllon to bed. ‘Oh my God, the travel he does! I thought I travelled a lot in my past, but I always managed to make sure I could see a place, so I stayed a bit longer, but he is just in and out. It’s so tough.’ James works with his partner, Ryan Marciano, and their day will usually start at 10pm and go on to the early hours before they get on a plane for the next club night or festival. ‘We usually are not apart for more than five days. Sometimes it’s such a puzzle to get us together.’ Ten years ago, when Kroes was a wide-eyed 18-year-old country girl, she had barely ever left her village of Eastermar in Holland. She had sent some photographs of herself to a model agency in the hope of getting a bit of extra pocket money, and was signed up immediately. ‘I felt super-young coming from the north of Holland, and I went to Amsterdam only once before I went to New York. It was a really big adventure to go there.’

Her first big break was when Steven Meisel shot her for the cover of Italian Vogue and – apart from a nine-month break after she had Phyllon – she hasn’t stopped working since. She had little interest in how she looked or what she wore when she was growing up. The woman whose achingly enviable body, ‘just throw it together’ edgy yet impeccable style and thick glossy hair was to become worth millions of dollars says that as a teenager she barely knew what a hairdryer was. She was born in Friesland, a rural province with a population of less than 650,000 and a lot of cows and windmills, and its own language. Kroes still likes to speak West Frisian, though obviously not when she’s shooting with Mario Testino. Her mother was a nurse, then a teacher, and her father is a psychotherapist. In the 1970s they were both champion speed skaters. Kroes, 28, and her sister, Ren, 26, a nutritionist, were brought up in typically rustic Dutch style: skating, cycling and eating healthy food. ‘I biked to school every day, about 25km there and back. My mum would say, if you go on your bike it will make you stronger. I think it did. I see a lot of Dutch women on their bikes with their kids and their groceries and it makes me happy to see that it’s how we are, and how I was raised. In the countryside I was always outside, kind of like a tomboy.’ They didn’t have central heating, and their father would spend the summer chopping wood for the fire in the winter. Her mother grew their own vegetables and would always have earth under her fingernails. ‘I never even thought about my looks. We didn’t have social

Image courtesy of Pascal Le Segretain, Getty Images

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Mojeh

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Mojeh

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Mojeh Image courtesy of Pascal Le Segretain, Getty Images

media so we couldn’t look at other girls and pictures from magazines. We didn’t really buy a lot of magazines; my mum and dad would just read papers. It was a different world, I realise now.’ Her world now revolves around her family, her regular work commitments, her fitness regime (Victoria’s Secret requires her to be ‘bikini-ready’ all year round), her work with the charity Dance4Life, and her 635,000 followers on Instagram. When she posted a picture of herself on her husband’s shoulders at the Tomorrowland electronic music festival in Belgium over the summer, she had more than 47,900 ‘likes’ within 48 hours. While she admits that she couldn’t see the point of making snapshots of her life public via social media at first, she now embraces it fully – and enjoys the interaction it gives her with her fans. ‘It’s a tool you have to use. I enjoy reading what people have to say and answering – I can’t answer everything but especially when I’m talking about menus for my son, I have so many people who love what I give him.’ She makes him incredibly healthy meals such as tofu marinated in garlic, turmeric and ginger, and her sister, who also lives in Amsterdam, makes him sugar-free cakes. At some point, there will probably be a cookbook. Despite her healthy-eating messages, Kroes is aware of the extra pressure Instagram puts on young women. ‘I feel I’m such a big part of that insecurity that some girls might have because of my job, that girls think they have to be that picture. And even boys, they think that that picture exists and it’s so frustrating because I don’t look like that picture – I wake up not looking like that picture.’ Occasionally, she will post a picture of herself on a beach without make-up, but she says that people want the fantasy. Kroes says she started building her social media to help promote the work she does for Dance4Life, a charity devoted to sex education for young people around the world. ‘I think it has something to do with being Dutch and talking about relationships in an open way.’ She has been to Philadelphia to talk to – and dance with – children in one of the city’s most deprived schools, as well as to Tanzania and Thailand. While children

in Tanzania are not aware of who Kroes is, when the teenagers in Philadelphia found out she was a Victoria’s Secret model, they suddenly took renewed interest in what she was educating them about. ‘These kids who were looking really bored and falling asleep suddenly became fully engaged. It’s amazing what Victoria’s Secret can do.’ It’s also amazing what a profile Victoria’s Secret has given models such as Kroes and her fellow Angels (who include Alessandra Ambrosio, Adriana Lima and Karlie Kloss), who are on contract with the underwear brand which last year recorded sales of more than $6.12 billion. ‘For the show, there is no retouching,’ Kroes said. ‘We can’t escape from the truth. There are millions of people watching – and even people watching live – so it’s really important to work out a lot, which I do, and I definitely change my diet. Diet is 70 per cent of what your body looks like. You can work out all you like but if you don’t eat well… I still eat carbs because to have just protein and vegetables for me, it doesn’t work. But I eat one potato with some fish and greens – very basic and happy food.’ Exercise is part of Kroes’ daily routine. She has a personal trainer, the former boxer Michael Olajide (if you want to see them in action, there is a series of videos on YouTube that will inspire you to work on your abs like nothing else) and she is also working with Mary Helen Bowers, the founder of Ballet Beautiful. ‘She comes to my place [in New York] and she does Skype sessions. Ballet is amazing for a woman’s body – you work on the little muscles. I like the combination between both boxing and ballet. It’s very extreme.’ Despite her regime, Kroes is no size zero. And nor does she want to be. ‘I’m not a sample size at all,’ she says. ‘At some shows I know they have been using very young girls who have not gone into the change of the body yet – no hips, no boobs. I’m 28 and I’ve had a baby. I have a woman’s body, and once in a while you run into the fact that things are not fitting the way they should be. But I joke about it and say, ‘What 13-year-old girl was wearing this?’ If they think I’m too fat, I’d rather not do the job – because I am superhealthy and fit and I’m so happy the way I am.’

First Look

Mojeh

The Orient Express Vacation with Chanel next Spring in one of the Orient’s most sophisticated destinations. MOJEH takes an exclusive look at Chanel Cruise 14.

‘A contemporary take on classic Chanel, a cut-out, ankle-length tweed skirt with matching short-sleeved jacket is perfect for a jaunt through the world’s fashion capitals.’

First Look

Mojeh

‘The collection’s beaded elements are luxuriant and impressively detailed. Just an accessory lifts a demure ensemble, or worn head to toe serves up high-octane impact.’

ithin the palatial grounds of an old nutmeg plantation and army barracks in Singapore’s Dempsey Hill, the fashion elite took their seats last May to witness the latest Cruise offering from Chanel. As expected from the brand’s maestro Karl Lagerfeld, an element of drama was present and correct – outside, a searing 100-degree heat beat down in time to the lucid tones of Michel Gaubert’s ‘50s inspired soundtrack. From the off it was clear that the house was ready for a holiday. Presenting what he likes to call a ‘full collection, not a precollection’ (the difference can be seen in the sheer number of looks that came waltzing down the runway) Lagerfeld’s inspiration was taken from the city in which he chose to show his latest designs. Singaporean monochrome woven curtains, which can be found adorning native homes, were draped around the venue to help set the scene and a transition between décor and the collection could be

First Look

Mojeh

‘The perfect dancing partner, an elegant display of showmanship in understated yet intrinsically graceful style.’

found in the black, white and cream colour scheme that dominated the designs. But Lagerfeld’s Singapore was more dream than reality. Designed for the woman who likes to unwind on vacation, perhaps playing a spot of cricket or whiling away the hours on a yacht over-looking the Aegean sea, Cruise ’14 had an energy that was both bouncy and easy, energetic but decidedly casual, Silhouettes recalled Chanel’s early days with a distinct ‘laddishness’ found in wide-legged trousers and oversized t-shirts while the suiting inspired by men’s tailoring that is a trademark of the house could be found in drop-waisted, luxe designs. This season marked a return to classic Chanel, not found in Cruise ‘13, with black-capped court shoes, reams of pearls and the characteristic quilting we’ve come to know so well hinting that the essence of Gabrielle Chanel was rife.

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Mojeh

The real genius, however, was in the details and more importantly in the subtle and sometimes not so subtle manipulation of fabric that elevated the simplest of designs to higher planes. Beaded embroidery ran like water over the surface of prim looking dresses, leatherbacked lapels framed cinched jackets and feathers were painted in jet-black lacquer for a jigsaw-like effect. Lace was gilded in latex and intricate stitching created patterns ranging from floral monochrome imprints to an array of blue hued looks in tribal-esque designs that provided the only shot of colour for the day. In all, the collection read like an ode to the quintessential Chanel woman. Not one for flamboyancy, she would find all that is required for a break away from the humdrum of everyday life. With casual attire for days spent lounging by the water’s edge and a few dashes of glamour for evenings, the collection was both exotic yet traditional – a classic diamond looking for the newest setting to make its home.

‘Take to the seas in nautical style, suitable both on and off board. Relaxed, unrestrictive and effortlessly chic.’

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The Year That Was Fashion is a never-ending story and as with every tale there are those defining moments that remain in our hearts forever. 2013 was filled with unforgettable occasions and so we’ve taken a little look back at ‘the year that was’ to remind ourselves of those highlights. For some, the seasonal flurry of activity behind the perfectly composed façade of the industry took top spot, whereas for others this year will be remembered for the pieces of attire that it produced and which will now be passed down through generations. This was also the year that looked back, taking inspiration as it did from eras past, from the roar of the Twenties to the rebellion of Eighties youth culture. As with any prolific pursuit, there are always those individuals who stand apart from the rest - this year a big Brit, a little Brit and an actress who has won the hearts of the people with her quick wit and unashamed fragility took centre stage. Over it may soon be, but 2013 was a landmark year; here we celebrate its greatness.

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Fashion Photo courtesy of: Andrew H. Walker/Staff/Getty Images

Punk’s Rebirth An extravagant ball that sparked the comeback of a cult classic. The MET’s Punk: Chaos to Couture was a sign of things to come.

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Photo courtesy of: Christopher Polk/Staff/Getty Images

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A Match Made In Heaven A pairing that has the world both hooked and smitten, the stunning Jennifer Lawrence took on the prolific house of Dior this year in more ways than one.

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Goodbye GhesquiĂ¨re. Hello Wang One of the most coveted roles in fashion went to Alexander Wang, who bagged the top spot at Balenciaga. To say that this was the talk of the town is an understatement.

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Gatsby Meets Tiffany

The Diamond Days. Photographed by Riccardo Vimercati. In MOJEH Magazine Issue 14.

Tiffany jewels for a jewel of a film. The Great Gatsby sparked many a Twenties renaissance and Tiffany&Co did it better than anyone.

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On every front row and round every corner, Kenzoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s jumper was a must-have for anyone in the know.

Photograph courtesy of Kaitlin Rebesco at www.kaitlinrebesco.com

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The Littlest Delevingne 2013 has been a stellar year for the model of the moment, who appeared in a whopping 54 shows, graced the cover of 14 magazines and starred in 16 campaigns. What can the future hold?

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Fashion Charlotte Casiraghi in the Chanel Little Black Jacket by Karl Lagerfeld and Carine Roitfeld 2012

Black Jacket Landing Chanelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Little Black Jacket exhibition made its much-anticipated appearance in Dubai. Flock one, flock all.

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Jacobs Out After 16 years at the helm, Marc Jacobs bid a sad farewell to Louis Vuitton, gracefully bowing out to rapturous applause.

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Marc Jacobs backstage at the Louis Vuitton AW09 runway show.

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the lion and the lamb Photographed by Alice Rosati | Styled by Sofia Odero

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Embroidered jacket, cotton toile trousers and shoes, necklaces and bracelet, CHANEL Cruise Collection

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Swimsuit, cashmere trousers, necklaces and bracelets, CHANEL Cruise Collection

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She wears: Lacquered tweed jacket, denim skirt, necklaces and bracelets, CHANEL Cruise Collection

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He wears: Jacket, top and cotton trousers, CHANEL Cruise Collection

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Tulle dress, CHANEL Cruise Collection | Sous le Signe Lion necklace, bracelet and ring, CHANEL HIGH JEWELLERY

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Jersey dress and cardigan, CHANEL Cruise Collection | Sous le Signe du Lion necklace and bracelet, CHANEL HIGH JEWELLERY

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She wears: Leather coat, CHANEL Cruise Collection | Sous le Signe de Lion necklace and ring, CHANEL HIGH JEWELLERY

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He wears: Flannel jacket and jeans, CHANEL Cruise Collection | Sous le Signe du Lion brooch, CHANEL HIGH JEWELLERY

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She wears: Lace dress, brooch and earrings, CHANEL Cruise Collection

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Models: Andy Nagy at Marilyn Agency, Nick Fronimakis at Marylin Agency | Hair and Makeup Artist: Giulio Panciera at MKS Milano |Photographer’s assistant: Luca Cadamuro | Stylist’s assistant: Clemence Leray | Production: Louis Agency All make-up | Collection Superstition, CHANEL

He wears: Lace jacket, CHANEL Cruise Collection

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Autumnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Second Skin Photographed by RICCARDO VIMERCATI Styled by Sofia Odero

Black leather and ostrich feather dress, JASON WU

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Fur jacket, TER ET BANTINE | Satin and wool dress, BOTTEGA VENETA | Glitter clutch, MAWI | Gold plated and silver bracelets, LELE SADOUGHI

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Top and shorts, DOLCE&GABBANA | Mink jacket, PRADA

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Mink and chiffon dress, BLUMARINE | Necklace, ERICKSON BEAMON | Sunglasses, KAREN WALKER

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Fur coat, black chiffon top and lace and silk skirt, TOM FORD | Rings, ERICKSON BEAMON

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Fur jacket, FENDI

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Embroidered dress, PIA PAURO | Brown fur coat with leather collar, GIAMBATTISTA VALLI | Suede sandals, CHARLOTTE OLYMPIA | Gold plated necklace with Swarovski crystals, LELE SADOUGHI

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Dress with chiffon petticoat, DIOR | Fur scarf, HOUGHTON | Clutch, HACHE | Boots, FENDI | Rings, GM BY GUILIA MICHELOTTI

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Fur jacket and silk pencil skirt, JEAN CHARLES DE CASTELBAJAC

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Model: Ilva Heitmann at Supreme NY | Makeup Artist: Diane da Silva at Atelier Management using Dior Cosmetics | Hair Stylist: Gareth Bromell at Atelier Management using Orbie Haircare | Casting: Roger Innis at Boom Productions | Local production: Sheriff Production | Production: Louis Agency

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Fur coat and suede boots, EMILIO PUCCI | Silk dress, CHARLOTTE RONSON | Sunglasses, KAREN WALKER | Rings, LELE SADOUGHI

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Cashmere cardigan and linen Panama pants, CHLOE

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A Soft Silhouette Photographed by Yoichiro Sato

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Crepe Sable dress, CHLOE

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Chantilly lace dress and sandals, CHLOE

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Chantilly lace top and chantilly lace skirt, CHLOE

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Arrow printed jersey top, arrow printed jersey pants and Baylee bag, CHLOE

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Cardigan in guipure knit and guipure skirt, CHLOE

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â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Tis the Season With a subtle injection of festivity and a nod to the playful, winter pieces have the warming whimsy of a hot plum pud. Whether descending on a snow clad Europe or taking in the holiday buzz of the East Coast, contrasting layers, chill-minimising materials (think knits and fur) and a pop of ohso-merry red evoke the season without the North Pole grotto associations.

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8. LANVIN @MrPorter.com | 9. DSQUARED2 @Saks Fifth Avenue | 10. BURBERRY PRORSUM @MrPorter.com | 11. SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

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The Dinner Party When it comes to semi-formal dressing it’s difficult to misfire with the standard combinations of blacks, greys and whites, but that doesn’t mean descending into the doldrums. Create interest and that spark of sartorial savvy in design-led pieces. Whether a forward-thinking take on a classic dress shirt or a modernist splash of pattern on a skinny tie, think a dash of ‘different’ for dinner.

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7. PAUL SMITH LONDON @MrPorter.com | 8. VIKTOR & ROLF @Saks Fifth Avenue | 9. VERSACE | 10. LANVIN | 11. DIOR HOMME

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In 2013 not only did we continue to champion the chaps in the pages of MOJEH but we gave them their own magazine, MOJEH Men. From media mavens to sporting stars we explored both the style and substance of the regionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s leading men as well as snaring some of the biggest names in fashion, culture and lifestyle from around the world. In our last issue of the year we look back at some of our favourite fellows, so letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hear it for the men who made 2013 their own.

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Bong

Guerrero As the CEO and founder of Fashion Forward, one of the premier platforms for Middle Eastern design talent, 2013 has been a big year for Bong. In our September/November issue he gave us an insight into his stylish life but we caught up with him again to see why this year has been so significant. ‘It has been incredible, most notably with the launch of Fashion Forward. The success of our first two seasons has been overwhelming and the team and I are so grateful for the genuine support from the region’s fashion community,’ he explained. ‘The inaugural season in April was a phenomenal success, and we established ourselves as a credible fashion platform that supports, nurtures and celebrates talent across the region. As a result, interest in our second season this October was even greater. We are already in full swing planning for season three so there has been no time to rest on our laurels!’ See Bong Guerrero’s lifestyle picks in My Stylish Life, MOJEH issue 16: September / October 2013

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The

Golkar

Brothers

‘Having three different mindsets is a benefit. Where Babak is the more creative one in our company, Farhan is all about making our garments look as luxurious as possible. Then we have myself who is more classic and refined,’ explained Haman Golkar, when we met with the design trifecta earlier this year. For the founders and creative forces behind fashion label The Emperor 1688, 2013 has been truly formative. Showing at both the inaugural and the second seasons of Dubai’s Fashion Forward, The Emperor 1688 has garnered a rapidly expanding audience both at home and abroad. ‘One of the most exciting aspects of 2013 was launching our collection in New York and developing our brand further into the US market. We had our first ever fashion show and we really feel our brand has taken a huge leap into the global fashion market,’ said Babak when we met with him again to reflect on the year that was. Read our original interview with The Golkar Brothers in MOJEH issue 14: May / June 2013.

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Adil

Khalid First featured in MOJEH Men, Adil Khalid is the humble sailor who also happens to be the aquatic pride of the Emirates. The first Emirati sailor to take part in the Olympic Games back in 2008 he is famed for his place on the Abu Dhabi Ocean Racing crew and his participation in the gruelling Volvo Ocean Race. For Khalid, 2013 has been a year of focus, with his eyes set on the long-term prize. ‘I always said being in the Volvo Ocean Race was my dream and I want to keep growing in the world of competitive sailing. I also want to focus on the Olympics again, and use what I have learnt offshore to further that side of my career,’ he told us. He’s also continued to offer his time in support of the next generation of sailors through his work with the Abu Dhabi Sailing and Yacht Club. Adil Khalid talks achievement and commitment in MOJEH Men issue 2: AW13

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Hatem

Alakeel Saudi designer Hatem Alakeel is already a noted name thanks to his thobe label Toby and his eponymous range of razor sharp shirts. In the new issue of MOJEH Men we speak to him about his latest collection and his approach to fusing modernity with tradition. ‘Every year I try to push myself to bring something new to the table,’ he told us, and 2013 was the year that saw Alakeel’s keen eye for design play out in a diversified range of uber fashionable garb. As for his highpoint? ‘Discovering that my latest thobe collection, including one of my shirts, was featured in the music video for Snoop Lion’s Here Comes the King. In 99% of the video he was wearing Toby thobes or one of my signature Hatem Alakeel shirts and he also wore one for his album cover. I was over the moon and it really made my year.’ We take a look at Hatem Alakeel’s latest collection in MOJEH Men issue 2: AW13

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Fall, For Him

‘The best smell in the world is that man that you love,’ said Jennifer Aniston, everyone’s favourite girl-next-door. Take a cue from the starlet and ensure your leading man is doused in something suitably beguiling, with the best new fragrances for the festive season. 1. ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA, Essenze, Italian Bergamot | 2. VERSACE, Pour Homme, Oud Noir | 3. DIOR HOMME, Dior Homme | 4. CHANEL, Bleu de Chanel | 5. FENDI, Fan di Fendi Pour Homme Acqua

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GIVENCHY The Golden Age

Serenity, sensuality and strength were all words that Riccardo Tisci used to describe his latest RTW offering at Givenchy, as he delivered his most personal collection to date since his appointment with the brand in 2005. For AW13, the designer looked to Romany gypsies for inspiration, and used a plethora of prints and textures to celebrate a newfound confidence in femininity and dark romanticism. Seeking to preserve the design DNA set by the founder of the luxury Parisian label, Hubert de Givenchy, Tisci looked back through the Givenchy archives to realise his nostalgic vision – a process that he describes as the most fun he’s had in his eight years at the creative helm. For accessories, Givenchy’s signature handbags continue to be timeless must haves. The Lucrezia and Nightingale offer day-to-day practicality, while stylish simplicity comes in the form of the enveloped Antigona clutches, ideal for transitioning between day and night. Weathered leather in sun-kissed bronze, gunmetal silver and regal gold make for a decadent colour code, while leopard print is perfect for the fierce but loyal Givenchy follower. Preserving the codes of elegance and timeless choices, Riccardo Tisci has exceeded our expectations with another season of beautiful designs.

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Gianvito Rossi Like Father Like Son

Taking to the stage in 2007 with a spectacular spring collection, Gianvito Rossi immediately captured the attention and admiration of shoe lovers everywhere, succeeding in his father Sergioâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s legendary footsteps. Gianvito grew up surrounded by authentic artisanship; it would be difficult to deny that the seemingly effortless designs and his excellent taste derived simply from an Italian existence. The luxury footwear brand originates from a country that values tradition, encapsulating genuine emblems of Italian design, craftsmanship and effortless style. Ever since his first line and the opening of the intimate boutique in Santo Spirito, Gianvito Rossi has played a pivotal role at Milan Fashion Week, with the brand priding itself on a perfect fusion of modernity and tradition. A close relationship with women and their desires enables Gianvito to imagine shoes not merely as an ornament, but as a prolonging of the female silhouette and a discreet extension of life itself. Our seasonal requirements have been heard, understood and fulfilled with thigh high boots in bold, militant and jet-black shades. Sure to make a strong statement.

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Jaquet droz Got Your Number

For most of us it’s seven or 13 but for Jaquet Droz, the luckiest number was eight. A symbol of infinity and completeness, designer Pierre Jaquet-Droz’s eponymous label has taken inspiration from the fortuitous figure for its more recent line of tasteful timepieces – the Lady 8. With slender bejewelled curves and a sense of regal elegance, each piece is imbued with a femininity and grace that echoes the maker’s commitment to all things refined. Available in 18-carat white or red gold, or stainless steel set with 49 diamonds, the Lady 8 watches are based around the arches of the figure eight with, a precious stone resting gallantly at their summit. The alligator leather strap snaps shut with a newly designed folding clasp, also in the form of the figure of eight, while a self-winding mechanical movement and 22-carat white gold oscillating weight keep the seconds ticking by. Keeping time in timeless style and as part of Jaquet Droz’s Elegance Paris collection, the Lady 8 is an amalgamation of fluid form and precise function sitting on the wrist with the quintessential beauty of a piece of fine jewellery.

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Alexandra Mor New York’s Finest

Alexandra Mor’s deep rooted passion and affinity for design have been passed down through generations. Born into a dynasty of French fashion couturiers and dressmakers, the designer prides herself on creating timeless, exquisite and one-of-a-kind fine jewellery from her New York based studio, where old-world craftsmanship is fused with contemporary aesthetics. Pushing the boundaries and demands of the modern jewellery world, Mor juxtaposes boldness with delicacy to ensure that the correct balance between classic design and innovation is met. Possessing a genuine understanding of the intimacy between jewellery and its wearer, she offers a made-toorder service designed to bring the wearer’s personality to life through jewels. The service allows the buyer to track the entire creative process from gem selection to finished product and emphasises the importance of creative freedom when commissioning precious pieces. Her limited edition Diamonds and Precious Stones Sautoir necklace and earrings consist of a mix of 48 gems including tourmalines, diamonds and citrines strung on an adjustable chain, which can be endlessly customised to suit the individual’s requirements. Possessing more than just an appreciation of clarity, cut and colour Mor promises an excellence that stems from a very real love for what she does - one that goes into each and every production and which is evident from start to finish.

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RALPH LAUREN

Draw the eye with a clutch so encrusted with sequins and jewels it’ll be the star of any outfit.

CORTO MOLTEDO

Take the shoe boot from day to night with a sleek sophistication found with jet-black colour and metal accents.

Eveningwear Edit Find inspiration from our handpicked key accessory styles and trends to carry you through a season of events. Look to eye-catching chandelier style earrings and delicately detailed Art Deco infused footings to sparkle long into the night. Forgo the safe option and opt instead for richly textured bags paired with largely encrusted statement necklaces. The palette for autumn/winter accessories has taken a swift turn back to black but it’s not all sombre and darkness as elements of embellishment, bold brights and witty decadence take centre stage too. The perfect placing for any event this season: from extravagant balls and lavish evening dinners to invite-only parties. These are just a few of our favourite things.

The only thing you should do with rings this season: layer and stack.

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Studs, studs and more studs – Louboutin does edgy at its best.

CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN

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For the more adventurous of us, a statement ear-cuff with a hint of grunge is an instant mood changer.

Choose a classic remake to add a polished yet up to date flavour to your chic ensemble.

Etro

YSL

Opt for some black bandage-style heels for a fierce footwear statement.

ROGER VIVIER

Slip on a pair of pretty embellished flats to heighten the glitz of a demure outfit choice.

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ROGER VIVIER

Every woman needs a quilted clutch, so do as the Parisians do and include this Roger Vivier number, adding supreme sophistication to any outfit.

Add a bit of rebellion to a simple neckline with a bejewelled chain choker for a done but undone look.

Want to jazz-up your fail-safe little black dress? Put on a statement necklace laced in gold to add dramatic effect.

CHANEL

Toughen up a simple choice with a warrior-style necklace for a battle-ready extra. For the boldly brave: layer on laser-cut leathers for a fierce finish.

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ELIE SAAB

DANNIJO @Saks Fifth Avenue

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Inject an element of warmth into any outfit this season by carrying a fabulously fur-finished bag for a playful and fun, yet luxurious look.

SONIA RYKIEL

DRIES VAN NOTEN

This season was all about bringing the art world into our wardrobe, so slip on a heel that has as much standing in a gallery as on the sidewalk.

Insects are our new best friend, wear them front and centre in brooch form and become one with the animal kingdom.

NICHOLAS KIRKWOOD @net-a-porter.com

BALMAIN

Opt for prism cut glass chandelier earrings to reflect a jewel coloured dress â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the bigger the better.

MAX & CO

Add an element of decorative glamour by adorning a rich, dark velvet dress with an ornate collar for any respectively regal attire.

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Select a mixture of mirrored medallions and chain bracelets to wrap around your wrist for glamorised grunge.

JIMMY CHOO

You can never go wrong with crystalised and bejewelled heels during the festive season – go on, sparkle!

BOTTEGA VENETA

CHRISTIAN DIOR

Choose to mix black with blue leather for a modern take on rock ‘n’ roll footwear.

Make a bold statement with a minimalist choker that lets a shot of colour do all the talking.

ETRO DANNIJO

What’s the easiest way to enhance your eveningwear? Put on a flamboyantly encrusted necklace.

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The New Gliterrati As with fashion and beauty, the fine jewellery industry is evolving as new markets and subsequently new aesthetics enter the scene. MOJEH takes a look at some new, smaller brands emerging from the Middle East and offering daring alternatives to the bigger Bond Street names.

ime was when a young lady of a certain standing would be inducted into the world of fine jewellery. Either bequeathed or behest, a new possession signified her entrance into womanhood, ready to see her through her numerous social engagements. The piece will have most likely have originated from Place Vendome, Paris’ illustrious octagonal square where the world’s leading jewellery designers are to be found, and would most certainly consist of a Diamond, Ruby or Sapphire set in white or yellow Gold. Today, acquiring an heirloom retains much of the significance and fanfare of old, but the provenance of the piece has become as much a part of its overall value as the number of carats that it weighs. While brands such as

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Van Cleef & Arpels, Chaumet and Boucheron will always retain their allure, a new wave of artisans are offering jewellery collectors alternative, but equally desirable, additions to their caches with a great many of these fresh talents emerging from the Middle East. The region’s relationship with precious stones and materials is well documented and reaches back for thousands of years. Old stories tell of the Hebrews obtaining their precious stones from the Gulf in 1400 BC while Gold, Silver and Turquoise were among the materials manipulated by Ancient Egyptians to make jewellery as long ago as 3100BC. There is an age-old relationship therefore between today’s regional designers and the materials they work with that lend their wares greater credibility - something that resonates particularly well with Middle Eastern collectors. ‘Middle Eastern jewellers have more of an understanding of the local culture, habits and traditions of men and women from the region’, says the awardwinning Leyla Abdollahi, an Iranian fine jewellery designer. ‘This perspective definitely helps to fulfil Middle Eastern tastes and requirements’. Like many of her contemporaries, Abdollahi fuses Eastern and Western sensibilities in her work – in her case, fairy tales and mystical stories from both corners of the world inspire her designs. Having studied fine art in her native country, Abdollahi honed her gemmology skills at the

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at Sotheby’s. The world’s most valuable diamond, at an immense 59.60 carat, is expected to be brought by someone hailing from the region. With this trend for gems in mind, it is little wonder that the Middle East’s fine jewellery scene is burgeoning with space for both the more established names and boutique designers. Mohamed Shawesh, co-founder and designer of Shawish, believes that the vociferousness with which men and women from this part of the world purchase jewellery is, in large part, cultural. ‘Middle Eastern customers tend to buy jewellery as gifts on special occasions. Weddings, birthdays, engagements – basically any occasion!’ Christmas is also seen as a time of giving, with competition among the elite particularly fierce when it comes to offering something unique and lavish. A bespoke piece of jewellery from an emerging local designer with the added tale of a cultural reference is the perfect gift. While the methods and motifs that they employ in their work may vary, designers such as Shawesh, Abdollahi and Al Fardan are unanimous in their belief that there is real value to be found in investing in smaller, localized brands. As Abdollahi sums it up – ‘We are living in a world which constantly contemplates and challenges new ideas. Since there is no end to the design industry, which is always craving new ideas, new talents and new products, today’s small, localized brands are the established brands of tomorrow’.

Leyla Abdollahi

prestigious Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design in London and she considers her bi-national education to be hugely beneficial to her work. Noor Al Fardan, founder of Qatari maison Noudar, is equally international in her approach, drawing on 10th century Islamic art, architecture, science and philosophy for design inspiration, but utilising the high standards of Western manufacturing to bring them up to date. She believes that the relationship between local designers and their Arabic customers is an essential part of the creative process, with the latter inspiring the former. ‘I certainly think that Middle Eastern jewellers push the boundaries because their regional clients are very open to new designs and creations. They are looking for tradition and innovation at the same time’. Abdollahi agrees with Al Fardan’s view that Middle Eastern customers expect more from their purchases. ‘Middle Eastern customers are by far the more courageous when it comes to buying or commissioning a piece of jewellery. They love that alluring touch of glamour and sophistication and tend to go for the most daring pieces, a reflection of their confidence and desire for the bold’. While China and India continue to own the lion’s share of the gold market, accounting for 60% of purchases last year, the Middle East remains one of the leading regions in the world for precious stone consumption. Take for example the Pink Star auction due in November

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Middle Eastern Fine Jewellery

ones to watch Noudar Originally from Qatar, Nour Al Fardan officially launched Noudar during the 2012 edition of the Doha Watch and Jewellery Exhibition. Prior to establishing her own brand, Al Fardan interned at Chopard, designed pieces for Lady Gaga and spent years observing her entrepreneurial father in action. ‘I come from a family of jewellers that have a long history in the jewellery industry,’ she explains. ‘I’ve always been involved in the family business so I knew this was my path’. For Spring Summer 2014, Noudar has created an exclusive range of pieces for Julien Macdonald, unveiled during London Fashion Week. ‘I’ve always been a fan of Noudar, it’s one of the most inspiring jewellery brands out there, managing to re-invent fine jewellery for a very modern woman’, said Julien Macdonald.

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Based in London where she is currently enrolled as a postgraduate at Central Saint Martins, Noor Fares is a darling of the international jewellery scene. Of Lebanese origin, she flits between homes in Monaco, London and Paris and frequently collaborates with similar minded designers including friend Eugenie Niarchos, with whom she created 2012’s concept store ‘Galactic Garden’ and Zaha Hadid with whom she worked on a three-day pop up store this summer.

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Leyla A winner of a roster of awards including Swarovski’s NextGem initiative, Leyla Abdollahi made her first foray into the limelight during 2011’s London Jewellery Week. Since then she has continued to receive keen attention for her satisfyingly chunky pieces, which are now stocked by many of the industry’s leading names including cult London boutique Matches Fashion.

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Mouzannar A third generation jeweller born in Beirut in 1963, Selim Mouzannar can trace his passion for jewellery back to his childhood, much of which was spent in the city’s gold souks. A graduate of Paris’ Institut National de Gemmologie, Mouzannar worked in a Ruby mine in Thailand before returning home and setting up his eponymous brand. Today he is available in Paris, London, Istanbul, Dubai and Kuwait and is beloved by Hollywood starlets and socialites alike.

Selim Mouzannar

Shawish Divided between London, Geneva and Dubai, Shawish is the brainchild of the Shawesh brothers who oversee every piece from conception to shop floor. Whimsical designs and fantasy creations include dainty mushrooms and delicate charms as well as show stopping bespoke fine jewellery such as the world’s first 150-carat solid diamond ring. SHAWISH

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Seasonal Delights MOJEH’s edit of the world’s finest jewels will see you through a winter fuelled by extravagance. We’ve selected the most opulent of offerings from the fine and high jewellery collections of our most cherished houses. Add to your own wish list or purchase as precious and timeless gifts for your dearest family members. Wear it, gift it, LOVE it.

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Rose Garden Introduce a fusion of garden influenced gems to your jewellery box with Aspreyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s vibrant pink Lotus earrings or thrill the more audacious by opting for a dramatic Bulgari necklace. Either will convey a confident sense of style and an understanding of stand-out pieces. 1. BVLGARI | 2. SHAWISH | 3. ROLEX | 4. VAN CLEEF & ARPELS | 5. ASPREY

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Regal Treasures Rubies, sapphires and white gold form the perfect combination , fit for the princess in each of us. Fabergeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s crown shaped bangle will be treasured for a lifetime and a traditional yet timeless flower brooch by Tiffany & Co will remain in the family for years to come. 1. DAVID MORRIS | 2. TIFFANY&CO | 3. AUDEMARS PIGUET | 4. LOUIS VUITTON | 5. FABERGE

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Peacock Pigments Take inspiration from the lavish feathers of a peacock with flushes of emeralds, sapphires and diamonds. Damiani’s design will decorate the neckline extravagantly while Dior’s drop earrings draw attention to the cheekbones. 1. CHOPARD | 2. DIOR | 3. HARRY WINSTON | 4. DIOR | 5. DAMIANI

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Crystal Clear Make a statement with crystal clear brilliant white diamonds delivered to you from jewellery empresario Harry Winston with a seemingly uncomplicated necklace that will ensure its wearer radiates sophistication. Keep things classic and beautiful with Graffâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s detailed swan watch cleverly disguised as a bracelet, which promises to enhance a stunning gown. 1. CHOPARD | 2. DE BEERS | 3. CHAUMET | 4. MESSIKA | 5. GRAFF

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The Purest Pearls Pearls have long been regarded as symbols of beauty and innocence, so follow in Chanelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s footsteps and add them to your cache, then invest in heirloom earrings by Faberge. For an elegant update with which to surprise your mother, add diamonds to a traditional strand of pearls. 1. MIKIMOTO | 2. FABERGE | 3. BOUCHERON | 4. CHANEL | 5. MONTBLANC

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To My Very Dear Christian In a series of letters to the maestro Christian Dior, the houseâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s artistic director of fine jewellery, Victoire de Castellane presents part two - Cher Dior, a mesmerising trip through a colourful landscape of beauty. MOJEH takes a look.

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DIOR FINE JEWELLERY, Majestueuse Multicoloured necklace, Cher Dior Collection

s with every fashion house, channelling the essence of the person from which it descends is of paramount importance. Victoire de Castellane, artistic director of fine jewellery at the Parisian powerhouse Christian Dior since 1998, knows this only too well and her knowledge and affiliation with her master’s aesthetic filters down into every collection and into every piece that she designs. Her latest collection, Cher Dior – a continuation of the letter she wrote with the Dear Dior anthology a number of years ago – draws on this lineage and is an ode to the history and passion of her predecessor. Starting with Dior’s love of colour - an element of design he was known to succumb to, an expression of his belief that ‘colour is what gives jewels their worth. They light up and enhance the face’ - Cher Dior explodes with a rainbow of saturated colours in every imaginable hue. Understanding the power behind the subtle nuances of pigmentation, de Castellane works with myriad stones, from diamonds and rubies through to emeralds and sapphires, off-setting their intense variations in shade to create 21 uniquely stunning pieces. Rings blossom in floral designs, where the clarity of a diamond is complimented by the brilliance of a yellow sapphire, while drop pendant earrings cascade in perfect symmetry as beautiful sapphires lie in harmony with the intense green of a demantoid garnet. A crowning jewel of the collection comes in the ‘Majestueuse Multicolore’ necklace, the making of which can be seen here, and its dazzling use of clashing colour lends itself perfectly to becoming the statement necklace of the season. Worn, as Dior would have wanted, with an all black ensemble, it conveys both a creative and elegant edge, but it is behind the façade that the real story can be found. Inspired by the Haute Couture ateliers, de Castellane injected a mysterious element into her second letter to Dior, recreating the intricate pattern of dotted voile in the golden filigree setting. Knowing that it’s the details of a masterpiece that make all the difference, this element, combined with a deep heritage and an exceptional eye for colour, sets the Cher Dior collection on a path towards eternal glory.

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Earrings and bracelet, Intarsio | Necklace, Diva | Ring, Mediterranean Eden | Eyewear, Catene, All BVLGARI

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If Looks Could Kill Photographed by MYRO WULFF Styled by SARAH MICHELLE

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Ring, earrings and bracelet, Intarsio | Necklace, Diva | All BVLGARI

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Watch in pink gold and diamonds, Catene | Bracelet worn as choker, Diva | Bag, Serpenti, All BVLGARI

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Earrings and necklace in pink gold and diamonds, Diva, All BVLGARI

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Earrings, Serpenti | Watch, Berries, All BVLGARI

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Look 1: Dress, JEAN PAUL GAULTIER Look 2: Dress, YANNY LONDON | Mesh cardigan, JEAN PAUL GAULTIER Look 3: Body, LA PERLA | Skirt, ISSEY MIYAKE Look 4: Corset top, JEAN PAUL GAULTIER Look 5: Bra, GIAMBATTISTA VALLI | Jacket, ISSEY MIYAKE Look 6: Dress, GIAMBATTISTA VALLI | Lace slip, LA PERLA

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Earrings and necklace in white gold and diamonds, Diva | Bag, Isabella Rossellini, All BVLGARI

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Put a Spell on you

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Photographed by Jean-François Aloïsi Styled by Nicolas Guillon

Soleil Radiant necklace in white gold and diamonds, BOUCHERON

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Petales de Chance brooch in white gold with diamonds, platinum, emeralds and tsavorite garnets, VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

2 BerbĂ¨re cuffs, one in pink gold, one in white gold with diamonds, REPOSSI

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Rose Profusion necklace in white gold with diamonds, PIAGET

Wave necklace with aquamarine and diamonds in a platinum setting, HARRY WINSTON

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Serpenti necklace in white gold with diamonds, BULGARI

Hortensia necklace in pink gold with rubies, pink sapphires, rhodolite garnets and red tourmalines, CHAUMET

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Love bracelet in white and red gold with diamonds, CARTIER

Etoile Filante bracelet in white gold with diamonds, CHANEL HIGH JEWELLERY

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Cocktail earrings in yellow gold with lapis stones, rubies and emeralds, BUCCELLATI

Set designer: Aude Borromée | Photographer’s assistant: Kader Bennacer | Photographer’s agent: Joséphine Little at Goodwork | Production: Louis Agency

Clockwise from top: Rose Dior Bagatelle ring in white gold with diamonds, sapphires and emeralds, in white gold with diamonds, pink sapphires and tsavorite garnets and in white gold with diamonds, DIOR HIGH JEWELRY

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A Picture Perfect Winter, photographed by Tracey Morris, MOJEH Issue 5

Tested

Tried and

Tested

Tried and

The Coldest Place on Earth Jumping into a chamber cooled to -140°C doesn’t sound like a good idea. We braced ourselves for the chill and dived head first into Dubai’s new CRYOHealth spa for a taste of the action.

he lowest temperature ever recorded on earth is around -90°C, a little fact I learned as I waited, trussed up in robe and flannel booties, for my first ever Whole Body Cryotherapy session. The circular chamber that I was about to step into was steadily being chilled to an icy 50 degrees lower than the northern most point on the planet and I can’t say this thought exactly gave me comfort as I prepared for the imminent freeze. Cryotherapy, an age-old tradition based on principles harking back to the Ancient Egyptians, simply refers to the use of lower than average temperatures on the body, helping ease pain and inflammation while boosting the immune system. Extensively utilised by athletes to enhance their recovery rate, it is also supposed to possess some rather nifty benefits for skin and weight issues, nipping and tucking with a three-minute burst of frightfully cold air. Being subjected to sub-zero temperatures prompts your body to react in an extreme way, with blood circulation soaring and a metabolic shift occurring, helping to burn up to 800 calories in one sitting. No wonder celebrity fans are increasing by the day. I set out to see if the benefits really do outweigh the discomfort. Upon arrival at the new CRYOHealth spa in Dubai’s Emirates Towers, you’d be forgiven for thinking you’d stepped onto the set of the next space-age blockbuster. It’s all curved white walls and fittings, doors that slide at a glacial pace and an over-whelming sense of calm that seems to envelope you as you step through the glass fronted façade. As expected, I had a little trepidation about my first appointment. Having signed up to ten sessions in a bid to truly analyse the effects, I was willing the experience to be nothing more than slightly uncomfortable, and I wasn’t disappointed as stepping into the chamber felt quick and fairly pain free. Three minutes might sound like a long time to be on the brink of frostbite (one minute more and this concern apparently becomes reality) but the time passes surprisingly quickly, aided by

a countdown that lets you know just how long the shivering will persist. The whole experience was actually rather cathartic, giving me a burst of energy previously found only with a bucket load of caffeine and for a reason unbeknown to me, the cold had little to no effect on my senses, becoming easier to withstand with every passing trip. Having been told that some grown men scream, dance and generally behave a little irrationally when trapped inside, I was certainly surprised at how easy I found the whole ordeal. As for the lasting impact, however, all I can say is that my skin is considerably tighter, the wobble that used to exist having practically disappeared, and there’s a shine to it now too that radiates off me from top to bottom. For those who’d prefer to avoid whole body immersion however, the Cryo Facial is a suitable alternative, used to tighten pores, eradicate wrinkles and inject the skin with a youthful glow, something that I can personally vouch for. With air of up to -180°C targeted at problem areas I could quite literally feel my pores shrinking away in protest, leaving me feeling as though I’d just taken a brisk walk through the Alaskan wilds in mid-winter. The occasional bout of brain freeze is inevitable, as they target the angrier areas of the skin, but as soon as the wand of icy air is moved on, the pain subsides leaving you feeling refreshed, energized and with a complexion that steadily clears over time – a perfect interlude in an otherwise hectic working day. In my opinion, Cryotherapy has a standing in the ever-changing world of beauty rituals. Proven not to be a fad, thanks to a long list of committed authorities, it has the legs to become a regular notch on my otherwise sparse list of weekly addictions. The burst of energy I felt at the end of every session is enough to have me hooked and the long-term benefits, that can’t be found in any jar or bottle on my nightstand, will see an initial flight of fancy turn into a long, enriching relationship for many years to come.

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Working It MOJEH talks with Gwyneth Paltrow as she makes waves as the face of the new BOSS Jour fragrance.

Known for her vigorous health regime as much as for her Oscar winning acting career, Gwyneth Paltrow is as dedicated as they come. Having shot to fame in the nineties thanks to roles in cult classics including Shakespeare in Love and Seven, Paltrow is now married to Coldplayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Chris Martin with whom she has two children under the age of 10. While juggling her family and acting career she also runs her rapidly expanding website Goop, all the while managing to keep her enviable body in tip top shape. We find out how she does it.

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Have you changed your beauty regime over the years? No, I haven’t. I use soap, water and moisturiser. I’m a big believer in a hot washcloth at the end of the day. I really believe that sleep, eating well and exercise is what keeps you having a good skin tone. I can really tell when I cut out alcohol, coffee, processed foods, anything fried, white flour and white rice for a few weeks. I can see the difference. You always look beautifully bronzed. Do you think it’s healthy to get a little bit of sun? I think it’s very healthy. I understand that the sun can be bad for you if you’re sitting in it all day long but we’re human beings and we all need sun and fresh air. What would an average day be like for you if you’re not working? I have a website and a gym business in America, so even when I’m not ‘working’ I work all day long. I get up at 7am, we have breakfast and take the kids to school. I then come home and have an hour of catching up on emails. How do you work out and how often? I do the Tracy Anderson method. It involves an hour of dance aerobics, and then a good half hour of muscular structure. I do it five days a week. What are your fashion must haves? Jeans, and I always have a little black dress (or two or three) in my closet because it really is my go-to. I wear them all the time. The best advice you’ve ever received? I’ve had so much good advice. One piece of advice that really stands out to me was given by a friend of mine, an older man. He said that in relationships he tried to focus more on understanding than being understood. I thought it was very profound, that perspective on how to relate to the person that you love. You don’t need to dig in and have it be about your ego. The more you focus on understanding where they’re coming from, the more things open up.

Images courtesy of Hugo Boss for the BOSS Jour fragrance campaign.

What sort of friend are you and who are your closest girlfriends? I’m a good friend. I love my female friends and I feel very blessed too. My closest girlfriends are the girls I went to school with. I then have very close friends that I met throughout the years in my industry. What do you think makes women special? I think women are very special because we are emotional, intuitive, and intelligent – we’re able to do a lot at once, we multitask very well. I get so much strength and inspiration and support from the women in my life. They are all strong women, they have a real point of view, they’re very articulate, and they have a real sense of their own right and wrong. I love having women like that to bounce ideas off and to help me grow. I feel very lucky to be a woman and to be surrounded by amazing women. It’s a real blessing. How would you describe BOSS JOUR Pour Femme? For me, it’s a mood boost. It’s fresh and beautiful, and wakes me up in the morning. I think there’s something really optimistic about it while the citrus makes it energising and upbeat. Would you wear this in the day and layer on the night-time version? I tend to always take a bath in the evening, so that’s always a natural time to change over to the nighttime fragrance if I’m going out.

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Beauty Picks

Editor’s

A True Gem

‘This made my life complete. A hero of a night cream it rejuvenates the skin with 16 key ingredients that work together to stimulate the cellular renewal process. I’m left looking that little bit younger every morning.’

Best of the Bunch The

MOJEH’s Editor in Chief offers her insider knowledge on the products, tools and potions that you should be coveting. Here she looks back at this year’s brightest stars. Pens at the ready.

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Magic Marker ‘Throw out all those pencils that need a constant sharpen and invest in Dior’s Art Pen. My graphic arch has never been so precise and thanks to its resilience I can wear it all day without worry.’

Beauty Picks

Editor’s

Dull It Down ‘If there’s one thing that’s a must for any woman no matter her style it’s D&G’s matte topcoat. In a jiffy your gloss has a steely and super modern dullness, a little change that has made a big difference to my beauty regime.’

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Wild Thing ‘Always on the lookout for a scent to make my man a little sweeter, Givenchy’s wood nuanced cologne has the makings of a classic. Strong, rich and animalistic it reminds me of a crisp fall morning spent pounding the leaves in Central Park. Perfect.’

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J’adore l’Or, Essence de Parfum.

Success The Scent of

With the festive season upon us, we allowed ourselves a moment of indulgence with the gilded J’adore l’Or by Dior .

he heart of Dior’s J’adore range, J’adore l’Or, is the perfect festive accompaniment. Heady and intriguing, it combines the elegance pertaining to the fields of Grasse with the sensual allure of the Orient for a truly unique scent. Designed by Dior’s perfume creator, François Demachy, it is composed of notes of Centifolia Rose and jasmine that are exclusively grown for the house by the Domaine de Manon, an estate that has been cultivating specialist flowers for more than three generations. Here we chat to Carole Biancalana, the green fingers behind the flowers, about her relationship with the house of Dior, the future of the fragrance industry and what it feels like to smell a scent for the very first time.

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Photographs courtesy of Gaëtan Bernard for Christian Dior Parfums

Exclusive

Mojeh

Talk us through the history of the Domaine de Manon. For centuries in Grasse, people have produced fresh flowers for perfume and my grandparents and great grandparents were no different. Over three generations of my family have produced rose and jasmine at Domaine. My grandparents were the first and they bought the fields back in 1936. They handed it down to my father and then it was handed down to me. It used to go by a different name but 18 years ago I had my daughter Manon and decided to change the name to dedicate it to her. Can you tell us about your first meeting with François Demachy and how the collaboration came about? I was actually attending a conference at the National Congress of Perfumery about six or seven years ago and I met François there. We had a coffee and he told me that he was looking for exceptional and very precious raw materials, in particular Rose Centifolia and jasmine from Grasse. He needed them in great quantities and so I explained to him the production I undertake here at Domaine. Suddenly I had a contract and all of my flowers – the rose, jasmine and tuberose -are now exclusively for Christian Dior. What does this collaboration mean for you and your family? When I get up in the morning, I say to myself that Dior chose me for the quality of flowers I produce and therefore I must make them the best that I can. It really motivates me to be better and better every year. I work with an exceptional nose for an exceptional brand so everyday I have to think perfection. About three years ago François called me and said he had something to show me in Paris. I hopped on a plane and headed to the Dior laboratory and he presented me with the first bottle of our perfume. I was so excited. I was the first person to smell it and it felt as though I was back standing in my field smelling my flowers. It was such a wonderful present to be given and it was one of the best days of my life. What do you feel the Domaine de Manon offers the House of Dior that they cannot find elsewhere? Les Parfums de Christian Dior and François Demachy are looking for something of exceptional quality to create their perfume with, and through our use of organic agriculture we can provide near perfect materials. But it isn’t just that. My work is my passion and my flowers are my family. This is not just a job for me, it is my life and it is constantly on my mind. I always feel that whenever I am not very well my flowers aren’t either and when I am happy and healthy my flowers thrive. My feelings are completely invested in my work and I believe this adds a certain something to the end product.

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How does the process of picking the flowers work? Are there criteria that you look for to ensure the quality of every single one? All the flowers are used in production because we pick them everyday and we donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t allow them to get scratched, grow old or stay in the sunshine for too long. We pick them at a specific time of the day as well - for the Grandiflorum Jasmine this is because they blossom at night, from 7.30pm onwards. In the morning, we are in the field at 8am during the picking month but we have to wait until 9am to start. Before this time the conditions are too cold and the flowers are still closed. Once picked the flowers are sent to the factory where they make the extraction and get the concrete. At the end of the season the concretes from every day are put together to create the medley from which they get the absolute. What is so special about the Centifolia Rose that makes it perfect for this fragrance in particular? The Centifolia Rose, named as such after its one hundred petals, is like an onion and it is this element that makes it so special. This rose is both soft and feminine but it also has a peppery, spicy element to it that makes it smell different to other roses. Like wine, it is not better but different, which sets it apart. How does the environmentally friendly approach you take to the cultivation of the flowers affect the final product? This is very simple. Our flowers grow in soil from an exceptional geographical location. Between the mountains, the sea and Cannes you have a corridor where the soil is plain and very particular. Our flowers are left to grow naturally without any chemicals and this creates a completely different product. It is similar to the tomato you buy from the supermarket and the one you grow yourself, they will never be the same. How do you see the fragrance industry developing in the future? I expect that over time perfumes will become even more exclusive and therefore more expensive. More effort, time and money is put into fragrances these days which makes them more limited and of a higher quality. When you choose a perfume today it relates to your history, your memories and simply smelling it can take you back to a specific time and place. Perfume is becoming closer to your identity and less mainstream so perhaps in the future we will all have our very own, completely unique fragrance. What does the future of the Domaine de Manon look like? I hope Manon will take over and the legacy will live on but just like me she has the choice to do whatever she wants. My parents never told me that I had to do this. Before I came back to take over I was working in Nice for around five years, but I found it very difficult to leave the Domaine behind. Perhaps Manon will take a different path but all I can do is hope.

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Photographs courtesy of GaĂŤtan Bernard for Christian Dior Parfums

Exclusive

Mojeh Carole Biancalana and François Demachy at the Domaine de Manon

What makes J’adore l’Or such a special scent?

MOJEH talks to the perfume’s nose François Demachy What was it about the Domaine de Manon that first attracted you to it? I met Carole three years ago at a conference in the south of France. We talked about our passion for flowers and perfumes and shared the same opinion on the quality of flowers and our respect for nature. This was the beginning of the collaboration between Dior Parfums & Le Domaine de Manon. Two passionate people meeting… What does the history of the Domaine de Manon bring to the prestige of the fragrance? I would say that it’s a mix of the history and its savoir-faire which are complementary of each other. Carole has learnt about the flowers and the harvest from her father and he from his own father. This is unique today and brings authenticity and a certain level of quality to her production. You are present at every annual harvest of the fields – why is this so important to you? Indeed I am. Firstly, because I am as you know passionate about flowers as Christian Dior was. Secondly because it’s important for me to know what will be used in our fragrances (J’adore l’Or mostly) and finally because I am from Grasse and it’s a great pleasure to come back to my roots. Can you talk us through the notes that feature in the fragrance and how they work together, in particular the Rose and Jasmine from de Manon? The Jasmine from Grasse and the Rose Centifolia are mixed with Tonka Bean Absolute and Tahiti Vanilla which bring an oriental facet to the fragrance. It’s the mix between floral notes and sweet notes that to me, make this fragrance so seductive. How is J’adore l’Or different to the other J’adore fragrances? With J’adore l’Or I continued the work that I began with J’adore Absolu by adding more absolutes of different origins (of the region of Grasse) and different qualities while still respecting the harmony of the fragrance. What is it about J’adore l’Or that makes it so essential for the festive season? It represents the nobility and savoir-faire of the House of Dior.

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Vision

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GUCCI

Berries Winter

ANTONIO MARRAS

This season catwalks were awash with mellowed moody hues inspired by the flesh of succulent berries. Whether encasing the lips in a pigmented cerise gloss or applying a swipe of deep mulberry across the eyelids, creating a berrylicious palette from lashes to fingertips is key.

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From left to right, top to bottom, images courtesy of: © The Food Passionates, © Fotospring/Photocuisine, © The Food Passionates, © Stocksign/The Food Passionates. All Corbis.

ANTHONY VACCARELLO

Vision

Beauty 8. YSL, Vernis a Levres in Baby Doll | 9. GUERLAIN, Gloss in Madame Fascine | 10. GUERLAIN, Nail varnish in Madame Batifole | 11. ILLAMASQUA, Generation Q Empower Eye Palette in Complement | 12. DIOR, Dior Addict Gloss in Ensorcelante

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Tresses Tame Those

The festive season is upon us and with all the events filling up our calendars weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re in desperate need of some hair inspiration to take our look to the next level. We spoke to Luca Comella, Creative Director of Y12 salons, for his tips on how to create the most covetable looks of the season. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s something for everyone.

The perfect partner to that little number that will take you from the office to the party.

The

Pony 1. Apply texturizing spray to the hair and leave to dry before backcombing the roots. 2. Backbrush the hair towards the neck and gather it all in one hand. Leave a few strands loose for a natural feel. 3. Start to twist the hair to your right. Push the hair upwards as you go to give it height and to create a pleat. 4. Secure with bobby pins and hairspray. 1.JULIEN MACDONALD | 2. PORTS 1961 | 3. Olivia Palermo | 4. KENT, Backcombing Brush | 5. EVO, Mister Fantastic Texture Spray

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From top to bottom, left to right, images courtesy of: Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Staff/GettyImages

Vision

Beauty

The ultimate glamour to make that once-ina-lifetime ball gown even more memorable.

The

Wave

1. Run a palm sized amount of mousse into the hair and leave to dry. 2. Using a medium size (24mm) curling iron take small sections of hair and wrap it around the barrel. 3. Start from the back and work your way up to the top. 4. Once finished, let the hair cool down for five minutes for a longer lasting effect. 5. Spray with hairspray and shine spray to finish. You can also shake your hair or run your fingers through it for a more playful texture. 1. DIANE VON FURSTENBERG | 2. AIGNER | 3. FRANCESCO SCOGNAMIGLIO | 4. PERCY & REED, Abundantly Bouncy Volumising Mousse | 5. SACHAJUAN, Straight and Shine Spray

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A Little House on the Prairie twist for a tea dress with an edge.

The

Plait 1. Spray the hair liberally with hairspray, using the hands to smooth it back. 2. Divide the hair into two large sections and make two ponytails. 3. Braid each ponytail into fishtails and secure each one using clear elastic bands. 4. If wearing up, twist the braids over and around each other and fix them in place using bobby pins. 1. Emily Blunt | 2. VIKTOR & ROLF | 3. VALENTINO | 4. PHILOSOPHY | 5. AVEDA, Firmata Firm Hold Hair Spray | 6. Hair grips

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From top to bottom, left to right images courtesy of: Frederick M. Brown/Stringer/GettyImages, ÂŠ RelaXimages/Corbis.

Vision

Beauty

Vision

Beauty

Pair with this seasonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s A-Line skirt and oversized coat for a Parisian touch.

From top to bottom, left to right, images courtesy of: Getty Images.

The

Bun

1. Apply volumising spray to damp roots and leave to dry. 2. Backcomb the roots with a soft brush then brush hair back up towards the neck. Tie into a ponytail using an elastic band. 3. Backcomb the ponytail gently and wrap it around itself. Secure it with bobby pins as you go. 4. Finish with hairspray to hold. 1. DOLCE&GABBANA | 2. Jessica Alba | 3. TEMPERLEY LONDON | 4. JUNE AINSCOUGH, Large brush in mint green | 5. SHOW BEAUTY, Volume Mist @Harvey Nichols

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Review

Cultural

Dates for the Diary

Things to see, places to go, new eats and more. Books

Colors Of My Life by Olivier Échaudemaison. Guerlain, Out now

Valentino, Objects of Couture by Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli. Rizzoli New York, Nov 2013.

Step into the world of Olivier Massart – the mastermind behind some of this generation’s biggest fashion spectacles - with Architect of Dreams. (Out Now) Boasting YSL, Christian Dior and Louis Vuitton as clients, Massart is the creative process behind some of the greatest shows on earth. Maestros of the photographic world, Inez Van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin have their greatest works presented in Pretty Much Everything (Out Now). Showcasing their effortless ability to jump between the worlds of fashion and art, the tome is a fantasy of prolific proportions. Celebrated for accessories as well as clothes, the house of Valentino bring together over 300 of their most iconic handbags and shoes in Valentino: Objects of Couture. (Nov 5) With specially commissioned artwork and images, it is a tribute to designs that have changed the meaning of style forever. Colours of My Life, (Out Now) by Guerlain’s artistic director Olivier Echaudemaison, recounts his beauty-imbued life. Told by the man himself, the colourful narrative tells how he went from humble apprentice to the man that every woman wants to make her look her very best.

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Pretty Much Everything with Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin by M/M Paris. TASCHEN, Out now.

From top to bottom, left to right images courtesy of: Sheltens & Abbenes

We’re inundated with must-reads this season, with these coffee table collectibles vying for a place in our fashion library.

Architect of Dreams, La Mode en Images by Olivier Massart, by Jéromine Savignon and Giles de Bure. Assouline, Out now. Available at www.assouline.com

Review

Cultural

Art

The art scene kicks back into gear with offerings of fashion, photography and more.

The Lure of Beauty Running until November 30, The Lure of Beauty exhibition at Sharjah Art Museum is a fascinating look at 20th century fashion illustrations and photographs from the celebrated collection of German art collector Martin Fervers. Documenting the everchanging world of sartorial favour, the exhibition is curated by Brigitte Schenk who feels that the Middle East is the perfect place for a trip down memory lane. sharjahmuseums.ae

Tony Viramontes. Watercolour and felt pen on paper, 1987.

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Review

What is it about Martin Fervers’ collection that makes it so interesting and viable for a wider audience? This is the first exhibition showing fashion photographs and fashion illustrations at the same time in such a complex way and with such a wide range. Together with Martin Fervers, we selected the works from about 2,000 images choosing them according to a historical frame of about 100 years, beginning in the early 20th century and continuing up until today. What initially attracted you to this project and why do you feel the Middle East is the best place to show it? The exhibition was initiated by HE Sheikha Hoor Al Qasimi, who I have worked with for the last 15 years. The Sharjah Art Museum is a great location to show this exhibition. On the one hand it is generally exciting to have a fashion show in the Gulf region where fashion does not yet have a great significance – playing a minor or different role than in the western world – and on the other hand the venue has such a great standing being renowned for its important exhibitions. We are also very excited to have photographs of Thomas Zanon Larcher, showing some of the designs of H.E. Sheikh Khalid Al Qasimi’s label “Qasimi” that he established eight years ago in London. Where did the inspiration behind the name ‘The Lure of Beauty’ come from? I wanted to make a point about beauty and the purpose it serves. We sometimes forget about this aspect when we look at art. I wrote that beauty has the quality to lift you up, or touch you in subtle ways, or even transform you. The ancient philosophers even went as far as to say that the beauty of art could reveal aspects of morality and therefore has the power to change you. We purposely chose very ‘beautiful’ images in order to highlight this. Both fashion illustration and fashion photography feature in The Lure of Beauty. What is it about these two mediums that you feel portray the essence of fashion so well? Both mediums are of importance in the world of fashion. The drawing itself is an important medium for the designer, in order to give vision to his designs, and the photographs show the finished design in a set-up that gives them greater significance. The world of high fashion, to most, is somewhat elite and unattainable. How does this exhibition confront

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this notion and what part does it play in opening up this world to the every woman? I don’t believe fashion is elite; every single person is thinking about what to wear, every day. It is a language everybody has to speak no matter what, regardless of whether you have taste, money or status. It’s a way to express who you are and how you want to be seen. ‘Fashion makes people’ is a famous saying. This is true but you don’t necessarily need money in order to dress up or to express yourself through clothes. It has to do with profession and obsession and not only money and status. Which era depicted in the exhibition do you warm to most and why? The roaring Twenties because this was a period in time where women started to liberate themselves through the way they dressed. The skirts became shorter and more comfortable, new fabrics were used, yet everything was still glamorous. What would you like a visitor to take away from the exhibition and how has it been received so far? I would like people to look at the historical part of the exhibition and note that fashion is an indicator of time. It changes, but at the same time it shows that certain things will always be the same - it is an expression of beauty in the widest sense of the term. In the Eighties for example, the whole ‘punk’ movement wanted to show the opposite but it was dependent on the established form of beauty for the reaction it desired, becoming part of it in it’s anti-being. Fashion is more than fashion – this is what we want to show here. You founded Galerie Brigitte Schenk in 1992, what did opening your own art gallery teach you about the industry and how has this knowledge altered your approach to exhibitions such as this? The preparation for this exhibition was very intense and took a long time – about two years. This was due to research and copyright and the collection itself. As there are 450 works involved, selected from about 2,000, you need a very clear vision and a lot of information. It was very complex, library-oriented work. Normally you know the work very, very well before you curate a show. This time I had to dive in myself and do a lot of research. The collector was a great help. It is a little bit like working with artists because, to a collector, his collection becomes his own ‘artistic work’ in the end.

Galerie Brigitte Schenk wishes to thank the institution and individuals who have kindly provided copyright for use of images. In all cases, every effort has been made to contact the copyright holders, but should there be any errors the gallery would be pleased to insert the appropriate acknowledgement.

Cultural

Art

Review

Cultural

Art The Plains of Africa Coming to Dubai for the first time, Christian Ghammachi of Lebanon presents his powerful photographic exhibition Forsaken, at Showcase Gallery until November 18. Portraying the beauty of the African continent, from the

land to the sea and all that inhabits them, Christian’s works are eerily beautiful, voicing a turmoil that exists between the natural and the manmade. Iconic prints intended for future generations. showcaseuae.com

Eduard Bohlen by Christian Ghammachi courtesy of Showcase Gallery, Dubai.

Here and There With only a matter of days until it ends, Abdulnasser Gharem’s first major solo exhibition is at London’s Edge of Arabia until November 8. The most significant Saudi Arabian artist of his generation, and the highest-selling living Arab artist today, Gharem creates a world where photography and painting cross with sculpture and performance. Renowned for negotiating his way between progress and tradition, he pushes the boundaries of conceptual art while staying true to his roots. Definitely worth a look. ayyamgallery.com

The Concrete Block by Abdulnasser Gharem courtesy of the artist and Edge of Arabia.

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Review

Cultural

Art Hello. Is It Me You’re Looking At? London’s Design Museum welcomes you into the world of Paul Smith this winter with an exhibition that charts the rise of the prolific fashion designer (Nov 15 – Mar 9). Including past collections, musings from Smith himself and the recreation of some of the brand’s most iconic stores, this promises to be a quintessentially British affair in which to get lost. designmuseum.org

Paul Smith store, Melrose Avenue, L.A.

Beyond these shores, art and design continue to provide innovative ways to spend a winter abroad. Strange Things by Paul Smith for NRC Handelsblad

Drive on Thru Renowned French boutique colette is heading across the ocean this December to take part in Art Basel Miami Beach (Dec 2 – 8). A collaboration with concept store Alchemist, the colette Art Drive-Thru is a retro inspired notion that will see visitors drive up to the window and order exclusive items developed by colette’s Sarah Andelman and Alchemist’s Roma and Erika Cohen. A joint venture between some of the most compelling names in art, fashion and culture, the pop up will feature roller skaters delivering limited edition pieces for a retail experience like no other. colette.fr, shopalchemist.com Photograph by Michael Stavaridis, design by Rene Gonzalez Architect courtesy of Alchemist and Colette.

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Review

Cultural

Food and Entertainment

Reform Social & Grill, Dubai

Grub’s Up A celebrity haunt, Monaco’s Sass Café has played host to the likes of Brad Pitt, Angelina Jolie and Bono and is set to open its doors in Dubai this December. Housed at the Al Fattan Currency House in DIFC, the joint promises to be as fun loving and sophisticated as the original. Expect Mediterranean fare and service like no other. sasscafe.com Hailing from London’s St Martins Lane Hotel, Asia de Cuba, brainchild of restaurateur Jeffrey Chodorow, will be attracting attention at the soon-to-open Nation Riviera Beach Club in Abu Dhabi. Housed within the St Regis, Abu Dhabi it’ll provide a heady mix of Cuban and Asian plates in the ever-so-cool way that its Brit counterpart is renowned for. stregisabudhabi.com Toko, Sydney’s award-winning Japanese restaurant, will be setting up camp in Dubai this December, transforming the Vida Downtown Hotel into a minimal, architectural marvel for the occasion. toko-dubai.com. And for those craving a taste of what the Brits do best, the newly opened Reform Social & Grill, originally from London will be housed in The Lakes. The region’s first true gastropub it will offer all the classics, from fish & chips to tasty custard tarts. reformsocialgrill.ae

Our palates are set to be dazzled this winter with a plethora of new restaurant openings flying in from international destinations.

SASS Café, Monaco

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Review

Cultural

Film

Through the Lens The Dubai International Film Festival returns for its tenth year (Dec 6-14) with a stellar lineup of both regional and international calibre. Held under the patronage of His Highness Sheikh Mohammed Bin Rashid Al Maktoum, UAE Vice President & Prime Minister and Ruler of Dubai, the festival will see some of the world’s most critically acclaimed blockbusters hit the shores of Dubai. From Canadian director Jason Reitman, Labour Day – featuring Kate Winslet and Josh Brolin – tells the story of 13 year-old Henry who struggles with the turmoil of adolescence while having to look after his reclusive mother, resulting in a mysterious and thrilling watch with romantic undertones, The Selfish Giant from Brit director Clio Barnard unashamedly opens up the world of Britain’s council estates and the struggles faced by residents, as seen through the eyes of teenage friends Swifty and Arbor; Award-winning filmmaker Asghar Farhadi presents The Past, his first film since his Oscar-winning success in 2012, which follows an Iranian man as he travels from Tehran to Paris to finalize his divorce, getting into some tricky business along the way. With co-star Bérénice Bejo winning the Cannes Best Actress Award for her supporting role this is sure to be a more than just an enjoyable watch. Visit dubaifilmfest.com for the latest news and updates.

Cate Blanchett at the 9th Dubai International Film Festival, 2012.

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Image courtesy of Getty Images

A night at the movies never looked so good, with a calendar full-to-the-brim with blockbuster openings.

Review

Cultural

Film

Tom Hanks and Emma Thompson star in Saving Mr Banks.

Popcorn Hour Rachel McAdams returns to a genre she knows well in Richard Curtis’ romantic comedy About Time (Out Now). Love and time travel make for a cunning duo in a film that unveils the truth about life - you have to work hard to make it. In true festive spirit Disney’s Saving Mr Banks (Nov 29) tells the bona fide tale of how our beloved Mary Poppins came to be, with Tom Hanks set the task of bringing the whimsical character to the big screen. The Secret Life Of Walter Mitty (Dec 25) explores James Thurber’s classic story of a daydreamer who escapes from mundanity through the power of imagination. Leonardo DiCaprio returns with another blockbuster in Martin Scorsese’s The Wolf of Wall Street, which sees the rise and epic fall of stockbroker Jordan Belfort through crime and corruption. One for folk lovers, Inside Llewyn Davis, (Dec 6) starring Carey Mulligan and Justin Timberlake, charts the progress of a young singer as he navigates his way through the New York folk scene of 1961.

Ben Stiller in the Secret Life of Walter Mitty

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In Residence

Artist

Something to Say We speak with Emirati artist Karima Al-Shomely about the driving force behind her work, her international career and why sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s seeking to break the mould both at home and abroad.

Silent, colour acrylic

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In Residence

Artist Invisible

orn and raised in Sharjah, Karima Al-Shomely’s career has taken her far beyond the seven Emirates. Whether exhibiting in New York, lecturing in Copenhagen or picking up a coveted prize in Cairo, her work speaks to a global audience. It’s hardly surprising considering that, at the core of her creative endeavours, she always places the human experience, describing it as ‘the inspiration that has the greatest impact and resonates most emotionally.’ By keeping her focus on the humanity of her subjects, she can tackle the grandiose – politics, war, the addressing of racial stereotypes – in a way that we can all relate to. ‘The messages change but I always want to explore how the person is affected and their story, that’s the main idea,’ she explains. ‘One example is my work The Silence which I created during the war between the United States and Iraq. Then there was the war in 2006 between Israel and Lebanon and, when I read the newspaper or watched the TV, there was just so much bloodshed and I thought to myself, ‘I can send a direct message to the viewer through my work.’ So I created a photographic piece and an installation in which everyone has tape over their mouths. It’s symbolic of the fear and how it can be crippling, rendering everyone silent.’ It’s easy to assume that by taking on politically divisive topics, or at least potentially divisive, Al-Shomely is an artist with an agenda. In reality her agenda is less about taking sides and more about shining a spotlight on the prevalent issues of the day – through the prism of her own interests. Which side of the fence you choose to fall on is your prerogative. As she says herself, ‘I prefer to present a piece and see what the audience says and what their reaction is. I just want to present realities to people.’ The partisanship she’ll leave to the viewer.

Perhaps one of the reasons her work manages to be more inclusive than controversial is the ambiguity in its presentation. Talking through her inspirations the political parallels are clear, but as an impartial observer they’re infinitely open to interpretation. In her An Internal Dialogue series we see a stark series of images in which the subject’s feet are bound. Her inspiration? Abu Ghraib and the now infamous image of the man on the plinth, electric wires held in both hands. It’s an implicit reference that tickles deep-seated associations, but it’s equally a study of constraint, of human suffering and of the internal dialogue of the title. It’s an approach to concept that runs like a thread throughout her various works, however different they may seem at first glance. ‘Sometimes I need people to really question what the work is and what it’s about,’ she says. ‘Often I’ll use local items to present something global. When I presented Invisible (her installation piece featuring pieces of Emirati national dress) it was representative of a small community. I told the viewer to participate in the work, to interact with it. If you were to take any part and place it on your head, you become that person.’ And so a work that, as a passive observer, could relate to notions of stereotyping and distance, becomes something else when one becomes an active participant. Through it she takes the notion of perspective, turns it on its head and encourages us to relinquish our preconceived ideas and approach instead with an open mind. It’s through pieces like Invisible that we get a sense of Al-Shomely’s broader intention. In conversation, her intelligence and warmth of character belie a genuine determination to confront what she sees as misconceptions about the Middle East, Islamic identity and her own role as an Arab woman. ‘As a female

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Silence

In Residence

Artist

In Residence

Artist Inner Dialogue

travelling with a hijab I think I can help represent an idea. Here you have this female from an Islamic country who can create and present thought provoking art,’ she explains. ‘It’s something I’m proud of. I want people to know that we’re not just camels, desert, tents or the veil. There is no man taking away my freedom!’ Speaking with a refreshing candour, it’s an issue that has primarily arisen due to her international success. Having exhibited across the globe and currently working towards her PhD in London, she has experienced first hand the fallacies surrounding her cultural background. ‘When I went to complete my PhD people were surprised that I was able to leave my country and leave my children to move to a new country alone. There’s a perception that Middle Eastern women live to take care of their husband and children and are not able to travel into the world alone. I’m an example that this isn’t true. As well as my work, just standing as I am is a message. Just to participate is a message.’ Where most artists deal in the indefinite, the ‘message’ is Al-Shomely’s currency. Like an author, the materials she works with serve purely as a conduit to express the idea at the heart. ‘For me the subject matter always comes first, then the research. I read a lot and see if another artist has presented something similar. Only then do I think about the material,’ she says. ‘It comes at the end. I start to think about which medium, which style and which technique will be good to present the idea.’ As an artist with such a varied oeuvre, Al-Shomely can be difficult to categorise. On the one hand she enjoys

the freedom of soaking up the myriad techniques of the art world and the infinite array of materials that can be purposed to present her ideas. ‘The more you learn, the more you can create,’ she enthuses. ‘My background has definitely impacted on my work - the sea, the desert, the touch of the sand, all of these things have an impact when you are creating. Sometimes I’ll use a natural material that exists in my country but I’m also very interested in which materials are not available here. I research them, I hoard them and I even do courses in how to use them!’ Yet conversely, it means the occasional nudge from a gallery to think of her work in more regimented terms. ‘If you look at The Silence, it was an installation and it all sold. Someone said to me, ‘you should do the same thing,’ and I can’t. It was a project that came about because I had something to say at a particular time. I can’t do it again. If I do it again it becomes commercial. I did it for myself not for someone to buy and, like every piece, this one is reflective of a specific time and a specific environment and feeling.’ In her commitment to communicating ideas with impact and maintaining integrity in her craft Al-Shomely is uncompromising. Displaying courage but with humility, she willingly presents herself as a vehicle to drive change – through her work, through her words and through the example she sets. As our conversation draws to a close and we ask how she would hope to be thought of, she sums it up with as much conviction as we see in her pieces, ‘I’m not a regular artist. I have a message and – whether it’s political or social – I am not afraid. Never afraid.’

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Photographed by RICCARDO VIMERCATI

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