Issue 19

TOD’S BOUTIQUE • DUBAI: BURJUMAN CENTRE - LEVEL 2, TEL. +971 4 3554417 - MALL OF THE EMIRATES - LEVEL 1 VIA RODEO, TEL. +971 4 3413033 - THE DUBAI MALL GALERIES LAFAYETTE - GROUND FLOOR, TEL. +971 4 3827327 - LEVEL SHOE DISTRICT - GROUND FLOOR, TEL. +971 4 5016985 • ABU DHABI: MARINA MALL GROUND FLOOR, TEL. +971 2 6816562 - THE GALLERIA AT SOWWAH SQUARE - LEVEL 1, AL MARYAH ISLAND, TEL. +971 2 6266710

MICHAELKORS.COM

Ladies Automatic RM 07-01

The only authorized authentic

“LC2” by Le Corbusier, Jeanneret, Perriand and Cassina.

Design first.

“Man needs colour to live” (Le Corbusier). The iconic LC2 armchair is a piece of design history and it is made even more extraordinary by its availability in a wide palette of colours. The three renowned architects entrusted the visionary LC2 exclusively worldwide to Cassina’s craftsmen, the only experts authorized to produce it. Each LC2 is accompanied by a ten-year guarantee.

PF Emirates Interiors LLC Downtown Dubai +971 4 339 7111 Corniche Abu Dhabi +971 2 6359393 www.pfemirates.ae A Mubadala Development Company – Poltrona Frau Group Joint Venturee

cassina.com

T: +971 (4) 425 7979

|

W: louisfourteen.com

NOTHING IS IMPOSSIBLE. THE WORD ITSELF SAYS “I’M POSSIBLE”.

Audrey Hepburn

Choose your membership and use your time wisely.

Chairman SHAHAB IZADPANAH

EDITORIAL

PUBLISHING

Editor in Chief MOJEH IZADPANAH

Publishing Director RADHIKA NATU

Associate Editor SHERI IZADPANAH

Publishing Assistant DESIREE LABANDA-GAVERIA

Assistant Editor KELLY BALDWIN

Subscription Assistant gracelyn gabriel

Guest Fashion Editors ANATOLLI SMITH GUILLAUME BOULEZ KATHARINA TRAPPE

Paris Representative GHISLAIN DE CASTELBAJAC Senior Advertisement Managers Pamela Bayram Cleave rana hatem

Fashion Writer Harry McKinley

Advertising Inquiries Tel: +971 4 454 20 50 Tel: +971 4 425 79 79 Email: advertising@mojeh.com

Editorial Assistant susan devaney Editorial Contributors Emma Bailey Gillian Brett Giverney Megan Edwards

Subscription Tel: +971 4 454 20 50 Email: subs@mojeh.com

ART

LOUIS FOURTEEN FOR MOJEH

Producer LOUIS AGENCY

Concierge Service Management ASSMA AHMED

Art Director AMIRREZA AMIRASLANI

Head of Lifestyle OLGA KOVALCHUK

Digital Strategy LOUIS AGENCY

Corporate Manager JUBRAN HAMATI

Contributing Photographers CHRISTIAN HÖGSTEDT ELLEN VON UNWERTH NICOLAS GUERIN NICOLAS VALOIS PHILIP RICHES RICCARDO VIMERCATI

Published under HS Media Group FZ LLC Registered at Dubai Media City Building 10, Office 345 P.O.Box 502333 Dubai, United Arab Emirates

Cover shot by Ellen von Unwerth | Styled by Guillaume Boulez | Model: Charlotte Di Calypso at Elite wears clothes and jewellery by Jean Paul Gaultier

WWW.MOJEH.COM Louis Fourteen for MOJEH Follow us on Twitter @MOJEH_Magazine, www.shopmojeh.com, info@shopmojeh.com MOJEH Swiss Representative Office: Rue de Rive 4, 1204 Geneva, Switzerland Average qualified circulation (January – June 2013): 13,144 copies.

For the UAE printed by Emirates Printing Press LLC. Distribution- UAE: Jashanmal National Company LLC. Qatar: Dar Al Sharq. Bahrain: Jashanmal & Sons BSC (C). Oman: United Media Services LLC The publishers regret that they cannot accept liability for error or omissions contained in this publication, however caused. The opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessary those of the publishers. Readers are advised to seek specialist advice before acting on information contained in this publication which is provided for general use and may not be appropriate for the readers particular circumstances. The ownership of trademark is acknowledged, therefore reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. All credits are subjects to change. Copyright HS MEDIA GROUP FZ LLC 2011

26

Mojeh

Contents

Society

48

MOJEH SNAPSHOTS

Watch the wonders of the world from a MOJEH perspective with all the latest places to go, people to see and trends to covet over the coming months.

48

62

62

The Inside Track We speak to model of the moment Britt Maren about love, life and much more.

66

Let’s Get This Party Started

In light of our third birthday, we team up with three of the region’s most notable event planners for tips on how to play the perfect hostess.

66

72 30

72

MY STYLISH LIFE Delve into the trendy life of Leila Kashanipour, founder and creative director of LeiVanKash jewellery.

Mojeh

Contents

FASHION

88

The Gilded Empress

88

American designer Tory Burch takes to the stage as our Woman in Society this issue.

102

I Am Woman, Hear Me Roar

102

178

INCONSPICUOUS COUTURE

178

Look behind the scenes at Saint Laurent and see why RTW designers are giving couturiers a run for their money.

184 32

Peruse our edit of trends and catwalk coverage for the season ahead. This summer is all about using your inner spirit to take on the world.

184

The Maker and the muse We hit the streets of LA with Stylebop to meet and greet the designers behind their exclusive capsule collection.

Mojeh

Contents

ACCESSORIES

278 A LICK OF PAINT

278

Is it fashion or is it art? Either way, immerse yourself in Karl Lagerfeld’s world of fineries for summer.

286

286

ROCKING HER WAY TO THE TOP We chat to the young fine jewellery designer about her career highlights, New York City and the future.

288 MOST DESIRED

We take a trip along the nature trail and into the animal kingdom with accessory collections inspired by the great green earth.

288

296 COLOUR Loving

296 34

Channelling this season’s hottest hues we show you how to embrace a sartorial mix-up with our edit of the very best in high, fine and costume jewellery.

Mojeh

Contents

BEAUTY

330 The New Season

Take note from our edit of beauty and hair trends to see you through the summer of sun. The season ahead is for getting back to your roots.

330

341

341

EMULATING PERFECTION The Parisians give us their mesmerising beauty offerings from Haute Couture.

348 BEAUTY SECRETS

348

Cover girl and Victoria Secret’s model Toni Garrn tells us a thing or two about her beauty and body regimes.

350 TICK TOCK

350 36

Escape to our new MOJEH Health section where this month we question what would actually happen if you stopped living life by the clock.

Mojeh

Contents

CULTURE

356 In The Beginning

One of the UAE’s most renowned artists, Abdul Qader Al Rais, talks to us about his humble beginnings, homeland and achieving international acclaim.

356

360

The Heart of our Art

360

With Art Dubai kicking off later this month we take a look at some international exhibits from artists, worthy of a week away.

364

Principally of Monaco

We mingle with the influential in Monaco, from its annual art event to the luxurious haunts of the city - it should not be missed.

364

366 38

366 Asian Basel

From Tokyo to Hong Kong, we discover the greatest cultural offerings from Asia.

Elegance is an attitude

Conquest Classic

www.longines.com

Kate Winslet

Letter

Editor’s

In Three Short Years T Joie de Vivre, Photographed by Ellen von Unwerth

40

his season couldn’t have worked out better for all of us. As models hit the runways in New York, London, Milan and Paris, an energized woman was unleashed. Her moods switched playfully from luxe sports attire to ethnic prints to dazzling, oversized florals picked straight from the wildest of gardens. Any timid ties to previous seasons were cut and she took to the open airs in exploration of the infinite possibilities that life has to offer. Sometimes the connection was literal and sometimes less obvious, but either way, summer’s style statement was clear: a celebration of spirited, worldly women with limitless powers.

Self-sufficient, sophisticated and compelling - she’s you, and she’s us. When I started MOJEH three years ago, I pledged to offer a platform championing the modern woman and indulging every aspect of her lifestyle. Just a few short years later and the magazine’s success – felt through the vast amount of you who read each edition and the earnest letters we receive from those who relate to our topics, or each time I sit down with a designer, regional or international, who is quite obviously enamoured by you - proves that we’re catering to a woman who now exists en masse. ‘You ladies are the muses behind this magazine,’ were my opening words in our launch issue and not one element of that has changed since.

In celebration of our three years together, we were careful to include something to represent every facet of your persona in our photoshoots, from the inquisitive to the fearless. Our cover story, photographed by one of fashion’s

RI YAD H CE N T RI A M AL L

DUBAI M AL L OF T HE E MIRAT ES KUWAI T CI TY T HE AV ENUES PR ESTIG E

AB U D HAB I T HE GAL L E RI A AL M ARYAH I SL AN D

JE DDAH K HAY YAT C ENTE R

MANA MA BAH RAIN CITY C E NT RE SAK S F IFTH AV ENUE

DOHA VIL LAG GIO M ALL

Letter

Editor’s

A Splash of Street, Photographed by Philip Riches

most spectacularly minded women Ellen von Unwerth, definitely falls into the latter. Packed full of couture, it was when making the final edits that it really hit home how emblematic you’ve become. By tradition, it’s near impossible to pull-off couture shoots as titles from around the world are all plying for the same one-of-a-kind gowns a matter of moments after the last look steps off the stage. But in a bid to get your thoughts on their creations, designers were offering us more taffeta and lace than we could handle.

Similarly, I’ve avidly watched in the last few years as the fine jewellery industry ensures their exhibitions are shown here first and only then on to the rest of the world. It’s clear why – the most desirable audience is eloquent and knowledgeable, holding the highest appreciation and understanding of their designs. In light of that, turn to Jewel in the Night and All I Need, for two juxtaposed jewellery stories that celebrate both your daring and soft sides. A personal favourite is The Open Road, channelling this season’s penchant for discovery and independence. With summer just around the corner I’ll be stepping into my Pucci heeled runners, a loosely cut pair of silk Ferragamo pants, throwing a Valentino cape over my shoulders and taking to the open road. And as we enter the time of year where the region engages with its creative side, from Art Dubai and Design Days to Fashion Forward, we pursued our own masterpiece in A Splash of Street. Graffiti laden walls were infused with Chanel’s art inspired collection in demonstration of where the worlds of art and fashion are moving: in the same direction.

I get a great rush of joy each time our region accomplishes something, but it’s even greater when a woman leads the venture and these endeavours are taking place more and more often. Three years into this project I’m proud to say you are still my inspiration. And so long as you’re still standing strong, then so am I, and so is MOJEH. Follow me on Twitter and Instagram @Mojeh_I and write to me at editor@mojeh.com

Mojeh Izadpanah Editor in Chief

44

Snapshots

Editor’s

2

1

3

Easy

Does It Step into spring with a less is more approach. Forget red carpet ready and instead opt for a quintessential style of sensual subtly. Whether it’s pairing graceful greens from Bulgari with a Mary Katrantzou perfectly printed rose pink dress, look beyond the stars. As the blazing sun sets longer into the night, attend your evening events with a palette to match your blossoming gardenia.

5

4

6

1. ETRO | 2. ELIE SAAB | 3. TEMPERLEY LONDON @boutique1.com | 4. CHLOE @net-a-porter.com | 5. CELINE | 6. ROKSANDA ILINCIC @stylebop.com | 7. ERMANNO SCERVINO | 8. DIOR

46

Snapshots

Editor’s 8

7

9

10

13

12 11

9. GIAMBATTISTA VALLI COUTURE @matchesfashion.com | 10. BVLGARI | 11. MARY KATRANTZOU @boutique1.com | 12. VICTORIA BECKHAM | 13. CHANEL, Rouge Allure Lipstick in Exaltée

47

snapshot

Mojeh

On Watch BaselWorld 2014

While we may still be making strap adjustments to our purchases from last year’s collections, the world’s finest watch exhibition is back this month from March 27th to April 3rd in Basel, Switzerland. Watch as the most prestigious brands descend on the small city north of Switzerland ready to showcase the next innovations in horology. Last year’s show introduced fineries such as Breguet’s La Rose de la Reine collection (above) and Harry Winston’s Glacier pieces (left). Hot on their pursuit of excellence and innovation, we’re eagerly awaiting the next generation of masterpieces from the likes of Bulgari, Omega, Chopard and Breitling. One (or maybe two) more for the collection?

In the

Beauty Box Miriam Quevedo Skincare Range

‘Beautiful skin is so important to women, especially in the UAE where the humidity and sun can cause problems,’ says Miriam Quevedo. She’s the woman responsible for the region’s fastest-growing haircare range – effective anti-ageing shampoo, conditioners and masques using white caviar. This month Miriam’s taking those same luxurious and exclusive formulas to offer up as skin care solutions too. ‘The range is built on a skincare approach to haircare anyway, so this was a natural step,’ says the innovator. They’re new generation products built to address skin sensitivity and dehydration, and the active ingredients - triple action antioxidants protecting against free radicals and white caviar for rebalancing - help skin regulate itself. One month in and we’re already hooked. The sublime creams soak gently into the skin creating a cashmerelike texture without feeling too dense or oily. So the battle between locks and skin begins. Which will outshine the other?

48

Dubai, The Dubai Mall +971 4 339 8686 Dubai, Mall of the Emirates +971 4 395 1400 Dubai, Boutique 1, The Walk at JBR +971 4 425 7888 Beirut, 2 Park Avenue +961 1 981 661 Online Store www.boutique1.com

snapshot

Mojeh

Wishful

Thinking

Casati by CH Carolina Herrera Most can only muse at the scandalous, illustrious and lavish lifestyle of Marchesa Luisa Casati. Hailed as the first-ever female dandy, the Italian aristocrat has been a source of inspiration for countless artists from Léon Bakst to Giovanni Boldini. Now, we can muse and more with CH Carolina Herrera’s latest handbag collection.

Crafted from supple Denver leather into a modern and fresh aesthetic, it’s ideal for the woman with edge.

A hidden treasure can be found on the back of each of the designs, a name etched on your bag: Marchesa, Stampa or Luisa. The colour palette (tones inspired by the Modernist movement) evokes the colourful and spirited nature of Casati. She adored her extravagant and flamboyant jewellery, which is portrayed through the large gold clasp featured on each design. ‘I want to be a living work of art,’ Casati famously quipped. And she got her wish. It’s the only work of art worth carrying this season.

Style note Sovereign Solitude

It evokes both protection and seduction, highlighting her curves and sultry silhouette. The presence of the medieval knight was first captured charging down the runway during the 1980s, and now, it’s embraced throughout the hustle and bustle of the streets of New York City from day-to-day. Adopting a sartorial stance that’s battle-ready has never been more prevailing. With Dolce & Gabbana’s glistening gold gladiators trudging the catwalk, the months ahead will be adorned with womanly warrior-reflective styles. Take note: seductive sculptures of minimal taste in beige are highly desirable. As once famously said by the original street style photographer, Bill Cunningham, ‘Fashion is the armour to survive the reality of everyday life.’ Now, more than ever, your daily armour is paramount when creating your own fantastical world.

50

FURLA.COM CREATIVITY

SPEAKS

ITALIAN

UNITED ARAB EMIRATES DUBAI MALL OF THE EMIRATES - MIRDIF CITY CENTRE - GALERIES LAFAYETTE, THE DUBAI MALL KINGDOM OF SAUDI ARABIA JEDDAH STARS AVENUE MALL - RIYADH PANORAMA MALL KUWAIT KUWAIT CITY ARRAYA CENTRE - AVENUES MALL KINGDOM OF BAHRAIN MANAMA BAHRAIN CITY CENTRE QATAR DOHA LANDMARK MALL - LAGOONA MALL MOROCCO CASABLANCA TRIANGLE D’OR BOURGOGNE - GALERIES LAFAYETTE, MOROCCO MALL

snapshot

Mojeh

Add to the

Shopping Map Rtister London

‘What we look for are labels with a fashion forward outlook and a sophisticated contemporary feel to their collections,’ says Ashkan Alavi, who along with fellow co-founder Shahrzad Amoli opened Rtister, a cutting-edge boutique store in London’s Chelsea recently. ‘In the last few years we’ve seen amazing growth in the number of independent labels who offer creative but wearable pieces. There’s no end to the number of designers in every major city around the world who deserve to have their collections worn and praised.’ Quite rightly so, and coming handin-hand with what is a new generation of smart, stylish and savvy shoppers, still coveting the known houses, but craving something a little fresh and different to wear alongside. ‘She’s on the lookout for unique pieces that are still well-crafted, exclusive garments, while enjoying the unpredictability and freshness of introducing a lesser known label which is ready to be talked about,’ offers Ashkan. From Australia and South America to Eastern Europe, the team at Rtister scout out a plethora of luxury labels, ensuring each has the right combination of artistry, quality of craftsmanship, practicality and novelty. Rtister champions those brands that don’t necessarily have a platform at international fashion weeks, but are undoubtedly just as important players in today’s style landscape. Personally, we can’t get enough.

Rtister is located in London’s Chelsea, 72 Duke of York Square.

A Rtister favourite of ours this summer is Ukrainian designer Svetlana Bevza who focuses on soft and simple silhouettes in muted colour palettes with a slight undertone of androgyny. Worn either headto-toe or used to compliment separates from better known brands, BEVZA is a must for the modern wearer. ‘This collection was inspired by the simple every day rituals that help women feel beautiful and wake up in the right mood everyday,’ explains the designer. ‘Water plays a role in this, it’s forever a symbol of pureness which encouraged summer’s minimal feel.’

52

DUBAI

MALL OF THE EMIRATES

BOUTIQUE 1 THE WALK AT JBR

ONLINE STORE

BOUTIQUE1.COM

DVF.COM

snapshot

Mojeh

Describe your collection in three words.

Trompe l’oeil, counter-colonization and métissage.

Did you have a specific woman in mind when designing this collection?

Not as such, I prefer to have a specific story and message.

A Stella

Peformance Five minutes with Milan’s rising design star Stella Jean.

You were born in Rome but have Haitian roots, how do you think your culture influenced your SS14 collection?

I am the result of a mix of different cultures and races that could appear completely opposed. I’d like to promote a sophisticated and alternative multiculturalism through fashion. Blending traditions that are so distant, I want to create new and unexpected cultural messages, while keeping the ability to balance content and shapes.

You’ve spoken previously of your ‘wax and stripes philosophy’ – what does the wax represent?

My signature is the Wax and Stripes Philosophy, which reflects a mood reminiscent of my multicultural personal journey, translated into a stylistic point of balance, a synthesis of cultures that overcomes what seems to be diametrically opposed.

The ‘wax’ represents my maternal roots - Haiti - the first independent black republic in the world, drawing its history in part from West Africa.

What do the stripes represent?

The masculine stripes (present on shirts) symbolise my father, from Turin.

The Wax and Stripes Philosophy thus professes and projects the culture of encounter. The two cultures never negotiate their own membership, instead mixing in response to the need of the times. Fashion can be used as a cultural translator and a tool against colonization: re-establishing the balance between symbols, stories and different worlds through style.

As Armani’s protégé, what’s been his best piece of advice?

To keep my DNA pure.

54

© 2014 CHLOE. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

FASHION AVENUE, THE DUBAI MALL - DUBAI AVENUE AT ETIHAD TOWERS - ABU DHABI CHLOE.COM

55

snapshot

Mojeh

On the Move

Iman Pasha on lifestyle, luxe and luggage.

PR exec, stylist and fashion consultant Iman Pasha gets whisked around the world on a monthly basis, all in the name of style. Here she tells us how to handle the arduous task of packing while taking us inside her suitcase.

‘Fashion Week is a show both on and off stage. It’s the time of year to be really creative and showcase your personal style to bloggers, stylists and other fashion folk. Everyone takes to the streets and expresses him or herself in the best way they know how.

I’m currently working as PR director for the new luxury concept Designer-24, and it’s full steam ahead! This means that I have to travel for both the spring/summer and autumn/ winter collections along with pre-fall and cruise. Our buying schedules take us everywhere from New York, Paris, Milan and back to London of course. We move through various climates and often get a last minute request to be at an unplanned destination, so packing is certainly no easy task. I try to mix current pieces with a lot of staples in an attempt to save room. A stealthy pair of jeans can’t go amiss and I include layers such as furs, blazers and fitted jackets so I can add and remove, depending on where I am. One tip would be to never underestimate the power of accessories when travelling – they’re small, light and can instantly change the look of an outfit. Easy ways to add colour are shoes, bags and simple tees.

Music is so important when on the move. It can really help to reconnect you to home or lift your spirits when you’re worn out. Always, always update your iPod before leaving.’

56

snapshot

Mojeh

FFWD

The World

is Watching

Riding off a successful 2013 for the region’s creative industries, this year is set to be even more explosive. Make sure you’re apart of it.

Just a few years ago the international community was sceptical about Dubai’s fashion and art industries. The city, albeit as entrepreneurial as it boasted to be, still needed time to develop a strong platform for the arts. Today all of this has changed and after last year’s numerous announcements and success stories, the world is now watching with bated breath. MOJEH takes a brief look at what’s in store for the year ahead.

In Dubai alone there are now over 60 art galleries affirming the presence of the Middle Eastern art scene. Art Dubai, now in its 8th edition, has been one of the prime yearly art events shedding an international spotlight on the Middle Eastern art community.

While the proposed Louvre and Guggenheim museums are still well underway and have received some controversial backlash as to why they are being erected and the art they will house, the fact that these museums are being constructed emphasises the importance of art for the UAE. In order for such a young country to move forward, it needs a creative base through which it can preserve its heritage and culture - while also staying current.

While the UAE’s art community has taken great leaps in its international cultural dialogue, the city’s fashion scene is taking smaller, more measured steps in order to solidify its presence. Fashion Forward, now in its third edition and much improved since the days of Dubai Fashion Week, is an example of the recent efforts made to turn Dubai into a world capital for fashion.

The UAE’s design segment is similarly making an impact. Since Design Days launched three years ago, there has been an increase in the attention given to Dubai’s design community. This year alone has witnessed the first edition of Downtown Design as well as the official announcement of the Dubai District District (d3).

Growth at such a fast rate signals an opportunity for the UAE to finally establish a local art scene – one that has since struggled to form a cohesive identity. But why is this all happening now? Many might agree that while the UAE has capitalized on its oil wealth and various retail initiatives, without a platform for the country’s creative industries, a true UAE identity cannot materialize. The great strides taken have shown progress on a regional and international scale, and by the looks of things to come in the year ahead and beyond, that same entrepreneurship will continue to shine a positive light on the region.

Turn to our culture section where artist Abdul Qader Al Rais discusses Middle Eastern art today compared to fifty years ago and take a look at what’s in store for Art Dubai 2014. This month also sees Design Days Dubai from the 17th March and then FFWD Season 3 kicks off from the 10th April. Dates for the diary!

58

snapshot

Mojeh

Regional

Favourite

Work of Art

Photographed by Jose Cuevas

For The

Bookshelf

Parisian Precision

Jewellery designer Philippe Ferrandis is known for his Parisian precision.The understated grandeur of the City of Lights can be seen throughout his work, shining brightly within his selection of quality-led materials. Philippe Ferrandis Parurier a Paris by Carine Loeillet, editor-in-chief of Orion magazine, is an 80 page visual vernacular, where Loeillet takes us on a photographic journey of Ferrandis’ work since 1986. It’s a great insight into the artist’s creative process from start to finish, as he transforms resin, crystal, pearls, beads and stones (primarily smoky quartz, amethyst and turquoise) into eye-popping pieces of costume jewellery.

The must have read, we predict this will grace every fashionista’s coffee table this summer.

60

This year’s Art Dubai will be a fair to remember. Now in its eighth year, the international fair renowned as a Middle Eastern creative haven. The partly housed art extravaganza draws a sophisticated, international crowd to marvel and wonder at over 500 works by various artists. From the 19th to the 22nd of March, 85 galleries from 34 countries will come together to showcase within the majestic walls of the city’s Madinat Souk in Jumeirah. For the first time, the gallery will be divided into three sections for spectators: Contemporary, Marker, and newly inaugurated Modern, focusing on Central Asia and the Caucasus. This dizzying array of lesser and well-known artists from around the world will be the hottest spot in town, so roll up, roll up!

Belles

Society

The Inside Track

Britt Maren, Women Management Paris

From opening the show for Alexander Wang’s SS11 collection to debuting a sharp and short pixie crop courtesy of Guido, Britt Maren is a well-travelled model with an enviable lifestyle to match, constantly catching our attention with her nonchalant and cool outlook on life.

This month we speak to the model of the moment about her lifestyle essentials.

Where would you like to visit in 2014?

My wedding and honeymoon will be in 2014, and I’ve always wanted to visit Thailand. We are starting the honeymoon planning process now, and there are so many great places to visit!

Which book changed your life and why?

I can’t think of a book that really changed my life, but I am currently enjoying books by or about Ernest Hemingway. I’ve read The Garden of Eden, A Moveable Feast, A Farewell to Arms, and The Paris Wife, about his first wife, Hadley. It’s really interesting to read about Paris during that time as well.

You’re originally from Houston, Texas. What is the best thing about Houston?

The best thing about Houston, Texas for me is my family and friends. I love getting to come home and see them from time to time. Southern hospitality is great, and so is the food and drink!

What’s your most memorable party from 2013 and why?

My most memorable party from 2013 would probably be either one of my engagement parties! I got engaged

62

What’s your idea of the perfect night in?

My idea of a perfect night in would include candles, a nice bottle of wine, a delicious home-cooked meal (by my fiancé, who is a chef) and a totally indulgent dessert to finish!

Belles

to my (now) fiancé in November, and we had the opportunity to celebrate both here in NYC with friends, and also in Texas.

Society

1

2

Which song or artist is on repeat on your iPod right now?

I always love Justin Timberlake’s music, but I also enjoy listening to old classic Soul from Otis Redding and Al Green.

3

When are you at your happiest?

I’m at my happiest when I’m surrounded by people who I truly care about and who care about me equally as much.

You’ve travelled all over the world. Which cultures have you been inspired by and why?

I’ve always been inspired by Spanish culture. I spent a few months in Barcelona and I would love to go back. I studied Spanish at school, so I was able to understand and pick up a lot. I think if I spent more time there the language would come back quite easily. I also love Spanish cuisine, how meals are such an important part of the day, not just something rushed and on-thego. The architecture and beaches are also gorgeous!

4

5

Which three items do you always keep in your handbag?

Three items that are always in my handbag are my iPhone, lip moisturiser of some sort (Rosebud Salve or Aquaphor), and my Rag & Bone sunglasses.

6

All images courtesy of Corbis, Getty and GoRunway

How were you discovered?

I originally started modeling at a local agency in my hometown of Houston, Texas. I really got my breakthrough when I signed with Women and got the opportunity to work alongside Alexander Wang the week leading up to his SS11 show. I found out shortly before the show that I would be wearing the opening look, which was such an honour! Soon after, Guido cut my hair into the pixie cut and I went platinum blonde for the Balenciaga show. Since then, things have been very busy and I’m very grateful.

What is your most memorable modeling moment?

My most memorable modeling moment would have to be when I got the opportunity to open Alexander Wang’s SS11 show. It totally jumpstarted my career, and it was such an honour to be a part of such a wonderful show.

8 7

Who are your favourite designers?

My favorite designers are Acne, Alexander Wang, Rag & Bone, and Isabel Marant.

Which trend will you be wearing from SS14?

Trends from SS14 that I will be wearing are sheers, chiffons and pleats.

1. Thailand | 2. Justin Timberlake | 3. DKNY SS11 | 4.

A Farewell To Arms by Ernest Hemingway | 5. Barcelona | 6. BALENCIAGA | 7. Al Green | 8. Houston, Texas

63

poltronafrau.com

Lelit, designed by Paola Navone

Intelligence in our hands.

True beauty is more than skin deep. This is what we think at Poltrona Frau, which is why we have always placed our trust in the skilful hands of our craftsmen, who lead every single step of the manufacturing process and choose the very ďŹ nest raw materials. This is our way of offering you the best italian quality.

PF Emirates Interiors LLC Downtown Dubai T +971 4 339 7111 Corniche Abu Dhabi T +971 2 635 9393 www.pfemirates.ae A Mubadala Development Company – Poltrona Frau Group Joint Venture

Belles

Society

Image from Carousel event

66

Belles

Society

Let’s Get this

Party Started Organizing a celebration of any kind is no easy feat, as we have discovered whilst embarking upon our third birthday.

Here MOJEH teams up with three of the region’s most notable event planners for tips on how to play the perfect hostess. From stylish secret dinner parties to awe inspiring cocktail gatherings, these society belles sure know how to impress.

67

Belles

Society

Zainab Alsalih of Carousel

Elegant

Engagements Where passion meets planning, Carousel founder and managing director Zainab Alsalih has feminine appeal and takes a polished approach to intimate and personal gatherings. Whether throwing a baby shower, a small cocktail soiree or a sizeable party for loved ones, Carousel strives for nothing but stunning and thorough engagements reflective of the host. Here Zainab shares her secrets on being the most pristine party planner around.

How did Carousel begin?

It was the embodiment of my passion for life and my compassion for people.

I’ve always been in love with creating beautiful interiors and tabletops, and I’ve always taken great pleasure in making other people happy, so I wanted to apply my passion for design in a way that was meaningful and touched people’s lives.

What makes a party a Carousel Party?

An obsessive attention to detail, in the design, the materials and the execution. It goes beyond just the aesthetic and into the emotive. Our events are personal and unique to our clients, so I always start by getting to know them on a personal level. Only then can their event be as unique as they are.

What do people expect from parties in this region?

We’re one of the world’s leading design and fashion destinations, so the bar is continually raised. Events need to have a wow factor, something perhaps unachievable a few years ago.

68

Belles

Society

Your portfolio is very dynamic. How can women ensure that the element of intimacy still remains when hosting a large gathering as opposed to a smaller one?

I live by the motto that no detail is too small and this has to remain even when throwing something large scale. Guests today are very worldly, sophisticated and bound to notice if something is lacking. It’s in this attention to detail, regardless of the size of the event, that the intimacy remains.

When planning our parties, where should we start?

Think of the objective and begin there. Why are you throwing the party?

Once you have the format established it will help in selecting the venue, creating the menu, the decorations and so on. Décor is very important and there must be a theme so you have a common element to tie everything together. Something personal is good, such as a colour, or a certain flower or herb. Creating an ambience is important, guests should feel like there’s been a tremendous effort from the moment they arrive. A good tip is to keep lighting warm instead of bright. Candles are always a soft and comforting option.

How can we keep everyone happy?

Beauty is universal and grace is common to us all. As long as we create events that have a high degree of both, people can’t help but appreciate them.

When hosting, how can we enjoy the party as much as the guests?

Any event, no matter how small, needs to be well thought out and planned in advance. Organization is key. Don’t be afraid to ask for help on the night so that everything flows seamlessly. The last thing you want is to be running around while your guests are there as this will leave you exhausted and your guests feeling guilty. Prepare everything well in advance, set the table the night before and have everything you need laid out and within reach.

If you have hired a caterer than its important to communicate the flow of the night well in advance so that they know the event timeline and they get on with it without you having to leave your guests to overlook the service.

What makes a party in this region more special than any other?

Generosity is a defining attribute and a cherished legacy in this part of the world, and it plays a big part in Middle Eastern heritage. The hosts grew up in homes that were constantly entertaining so now they genuinely enjoying hosting people themselves. It’s this spirit and energy that makes them so successful.

69

Belles

Society

Buthaina Al Mazrui and Alamira Noor Bani Hashim of The Dinner Club by No.57

can you

keep a secret?

Early last year a mysterious dinner party invite landed on our desk. Hand-made with a secretive message – a date, a time, a dress code but no more - giving very little away. The Dinner Club by No.57 girls, Buthaina Al Mazrui and Alamira Noor Bani Hashim, were the Houdini hosts.

Just over a year later, the pair are now known the region over for throwing the most gorgeous of gatherings.

Traditional in their concept and mysterious in their planning, here they tell us how to do dinner with a twist.

Sum up The Dinner Club by No.57.

A surprise underground party for your senses…only better!

Why have your dinner parties been such a hit in the region?

They’re very informal and genuine with no waiters, helpers or photographers.

Amidst all the glitz and glamour of the region, people were looking for something more humble but still exclusive, delicious and soulful!

Why the element of mystery?

It’s intriguing to never know who you’ll be at dinner with. It could be anyone from Christian Louboutin to an international fashion editor. Just close your eyes and see what happens! You also never know where the dinner will be held, what will be served or how the set up will be – it’s exciting!

Where do you begin with the planning process?

We begin with the date and guest list. Finding unique and exciting locations is the biggest challenge as we only have a few months to be outside. At times we’ve sent out invites without even knowing the location ourselves!

70

Belles

Society

How do you cater for all personalities at the table?

The setting is always inspired by the location so we try to think about who would be comfortable in certain surroundings. We do push boundaries at times. We also give a lot of thought to the seating arrangements.

We live in a region well known for its numerous events, often with more than one VIP gathering a night. How do you ensue your parties are always first on everyone’s lists?

Ours are fun and exciting once in a lifetime experiences. Guests know they’ll find something new and inspiring at our dinners.

What rules should women follow when dressing for a dinner party?

We always advise guests simply to look polished. It’s always better to be overdressed rather than under, and it’s a compliment to the host when you put effort into your outfit. Other than that, we always want everyone to be themselves.

Any advice on dinner party etiquette?

Arrive on time. Dinner is never served until everyone is seated. Being fashionably late is one thing, but keeping everyone waiting for too long is another.

When hosting, how can you enjoy the party while making sure guests are comfortable and looked after?

Always be well prepared ahead of time.

How do you ensure each event is different from the last?

With a new location, set-up, guests and menu, each event will always differ.

It’s still important to develop something recognizable though, so guests can relate their experiences back to us and our brand.

Dinner parties are such a traditional concept, why is it so important to keep the culture alive?

The act of eating a meal with others is such a wonderful experience and you get to meet people who you may otherwise never chance upon.

We often receive beautiful hand written notes afterwards thanking us.

For us this isn’t a business, it’s our true love and passion to give people beautiful experiences.

71

Insider

Style

My Stylish Life

Leila Kashanipour, founder and creative director of LeiVanKash Jewellery After completing her BA at London’s Central St Martin’s and then taking up positions at sought after jewellery houses such as Asprey and Stephen Webster, Leila Kashanipour founded her own label LeiVanKash in 2011. In three short years, the Persian beauty and her dynamic but feminine designs, loved by the likes of Erin Wasson and Cara Delevingne, have shot to international fame. Here we delve into the designer’s stylish life.

72

Insider

Style 1

One piece of advice I would give to anyone: Best to communicate than to assume | Hidden talent: Reading body language | One thing I can’t live without: A whole lot of love (and my phones…) | Most loved fairytale character: Pocahontas | One thing that money can’t buy: Time | Heaven is to me: Beach and sun | Early bird or night owl: Night owl | Person/s I look up to: My parents | How I relax: Over a cup of matcha green tea and movies | What I collect: Memories

3

2

4

Best discovery: Kale chips | Favourite book: Olympia Le Tan! | Favourite meal: Lunch - a good niçoise salad (La Petite Maison does just fine) | Best home comfort: Fluffy socks | Favourite restaurant/s: Coya, Sumosan and Lima | Favourite place in the world: Home with my hubby, family, close friends and good food | Favourite city: London

5

7

Beauty must-haves: Tinted moisturiser, anything Laura Mercier and black mascara | Signature scent: Gio for men | Top moisturiser: Johnson & Johnson Baby Oil | Manicure style: Not long, round or square but somewhere in between and either black, navy, nude or red | Favourite hairstyle: Natural waves for summer and an easy blow dry for winter | Fresh faced or full glamour: Fresh faced | Bad hair day product: Batiste dry shampoo – hallelujah! | Describe your style: Currently minimal | Best purchase: A pair of Zara boyfriend jeans that I adore so much | Favourite designers: Celine, Givenchy, Balenciaga | Wardrobe staples: Leather bikers and jeans | Ultimate accessories: LeiVanKash dagger or rose ear cuff, feather midis and hand-cuff (worn together) | Heels or flats: Heels all night and flats all day | Favourite pair of shoes: Laurence Dacade boots and Chanel lace boots.

6

8

1. POCAHONTAS | 2. BALENCIAGA | 3. CHANEL | 4. GIO by Giorgio Armani | 5. LAURA MERCIER foundation | 6. CELINE | 7. CHARLOTTE OLYMPIA | 8. LeiVanKash

73

Photographed by Federico De Angelis, Issue 11

Photographed by Raphael Delorme & Thierno SY, Issue 7 Photographed by Thierno SY, Issue 7

74

Photographed by Stefania Paparelli, Issue 12+1

Photographed by Silja Magg, Issue 7

Photographed by Simon Upton, Issue 1

Photographed by Riccardo Vimercati, Issue 16

Photographed by Romanleo, Issue 5 Photographed by Raphael Delorme & Thierno SY, Issue 10

75

Interview

Designer

Illustrious

Gowns

British fashion designer Antonio Berardi is the King of the cocktail dress, revered for his slim fitting, avant-garde gowns. We meet him in Abu Dhabi to delve into his creative inspirations, admire his artistic penchant and marvel at how he can understand a woman’s shape so well.

S

heer-paneled with kimono sleeves, peplum detail and colour blocking, Antonio Berardi’s optical illusion gown was worn by Gwyneth Paltrow to the Iron Man 3 premiere in Hollywood earlier last year – a showstopper in itself with its combination of sheer panels running teasingly up each side, covering the body while exposing it ever so slightly. The next day, magazines everywhere showcased the look and Berardi’s phone rang non-stop with praise. As is customary in the designer’s pedigree, the gown emphasized

76

not only Berardi’s artful lines, but the grace and character of the wearer. Paltrow radiated confidence and beauty, with the dress showing off the curves of her body from every aspect.

‘I like to give a dress a 360 degree treatment so that it looks great from every angle,’ says Berardi. ‘It’s about the wearer ‘s overall figure as well as her persona.’ This complete dedication to the art of form and the character behind a dress is what has propelled Berardi to his current fame.

It all began when he was very young, growing up with three sisters and a very particular mother who was always keen to find the right outfit for each occasion. ‘I became enraptured by the ceremony of dressing,’ says Berardi. ‘The dress always needed to be just right.’ He tells how he used to sneak into his parents’ room and ruffle through his mother’s clothes. There he’d sift through drawers of handkerchiefs each dedicated to a certain colour, and imagine the interesting outfits that he could make.

As Sicilians who had immigrated to the UK in the 1950s, Berardi’s parents didn’t have a lot of money. ‘Growing up, fashion was about making something beautiful out of something ordinary,’ he says. He cites examples of embroidering his sister’s plain nightgowns and how his mother and his sisters would often pass around a garment each using one of their specialties to sew and embroider it to make it unique.

Berardi became captivated by fashion. As a nine year old, the designer would often save

77

Interview

Designer

78

Interview

Designer

Interview

Designer

his money for Armani shirts with leather gusset shoulders in order to wear the ‘in’ look of the time. ‘Fashion was something I always wanted to do,’ says Berardi. ‘The way we dressed was always of utmost importance to my parents, good Sicilian immigrants, and I guess it was something that was instilled in me from an early age. I had the choice of studying medicine, law or fashion, so of course I went for the most interesting.’

After high school Berardi decided on a career in design, but after attending Lincoln College of Art and Design, he applied for a Bachelor’s degree in fashion from Central Saint Martin’s College of Art and Design. His application was rejected and instead he began working as an assistant with John Galliano. But the desire to obtain a degree in fashion stuck with him, and after applying for a third time in 1990, he was accepted. He graduated in 1993 and in 1994 his graduate collection caught the eye of Angela Quaintrell, a buyer for London fashion holding group Liberty. In 1995, he produced his first fashion week collection under his eponymous label with financial backing from the group.

A success, the show’s main model was Kylie Minogue and the accessories were designed

by Manolo Blahnik and Philip Treacy.

Over the years, the designer has received much acclaim for his figure-hugging gowns, at once classic, elegant whilst giving just a hint of the avant-garde. Pushing the boundaries of design while also adhering to the classical

These are fashion designs that one would not wear every day, making them more akin to objets d’art than mere style statements.

canon of women’s fashion is something Berardi has excelled at. Examples of dresses that have embodied the interesting crossover between the worlds of fashion and Contemporary include the illuminated coat he designed with light bulbs that lit up to form a crucifix for his autumn/winter 2003 collection in Milan. There was also the trompe-l’oeil corset dress in black and white with lace detailing. These are fashion designs that one would not wear every day, making them more akin to objets d’art than mere style statements. Even so, they worked with the collection they were part of.

‘The illuminated pieces were from a collection that took its inspiration from Punk and the Borgias – a collection that was religious and anarchical at the same time,’ he explains.

‘The Gwyneth dress was from a collection inspired by Sicily. It was based on the idea that underpinnings are just as important as the clothes you wear on top of them, so why not show just how beautiful they are?’

79

Interview

Designer

‘I am always striving to bring out the personality of the wearer through unique pieces with great attention to detail.’

What lies underneath – the true essence of a woman – is the inherent meaning behind Berardi’s fashion designs. In November, the designer showed his work at a private show in Abu Dhabi during the weekend of the Coutts Polo at the Emirates Palace. He adjusted his designs specifically to suit the Middle Eastern woman. ‘We stripped things back, and took out the daywear, which I thought was less relevant for the market,’ he says. ‘What I loved is that those present appreciated the detail and the 360 degree elements of the clothing. The Middle East has a very aware, fashion forward crowd.’

Berardi has found the Middle Eastern market to be very much about individualism and attention to detail; ‘My work is about exalting women, while always being respectful of modesty and cultural norms. I am always striving to bring out the personality of the wearer through unique pieces with great attention to detail.’

80

The Middle Eastern market could certainly benefit from Berardi’s one-off, special pieces created for the women of the region.

The designer likes to be constantly challenged, and contemporary art does exactly this.

Berardi’s fashion designs are enhanced by the lines, attitude and timeless appeal that can also be found in fine art.

‘I like to be challenged, consciously and subconsciously,’ he says. ‘I love the Chapman brothers, who are friends, Rachel Kneebone, and Oscar Niemeyer because he is always modern.’

Berardi has designed clothes for some of the world’s most famous women including Angelina Jolie, Victoria Beckham and Sarah Jessica Parker. But strip away all of the success and beauty that Berardi’s fashion designs have garnered and it comes down the art of form and the exaltation of beauty. Sicily, the artist’s native home, still remains close to his heart. ‘The craftsmanship, the femininity and the pride that is omnipresent on the island has played a great part in my work,’ he says.

‘I grew up with aunts and my grandmother embroidering and making bobbin-lace, and a mother who taught us how to love and appreciate beautiful things.’ And so he’s continued the Italian tradition of honouring beauty in his own way. Designing is about pleasing people. As he says, ‘It’s about making sure you’re giving people what they want, something beautiful and classic, more than the commercial aspect.’ And that he has done.

16

SEP / OCT

Take Me

Away

SUBSCRIBE MOJEH MAGAZINE BIMONTHLY IN YOUR HANDS

feature

Fashion

Fashion’s Superpower The 90s was the era that invented the supermodel.

These women were on a first name basis with the world, and were justified in not getting out of bed for less than $10,000. This year marks the 25th anniversary of the supermodel and heralds their timely return – and not just to the catwalks. Working their age like a Chanel 2.55, they aren’t just any women, they are superwomen. MOJEH recaps the reign of the Supers and celebrates their intangible and powerful mystique.

By Gillian Brett

‘There is not enough ego!’ Donatella Versace recently lamented, referring to the homogeneity of many of the current wave of models. ‘Now is a bad moment. Now we need something. We need a special personality.’ It’s not surprising that Donatella is one of the many designers to speak out against the anonymous, undernourished teenagers who have populated the runways in recent years, as (among the many other glories in her career) lady Versace was instrumental in the rise of the supermodel.

Arguably, the ultimate supermodel moment was when Gianni Versace opened his March 1991 couture show in Milan with Linda Evangelista, Christy Turlington, Naomi Campbell and Cindy Crawford marching down the runway, lip-synching the words to George Michael’s ‘Freedom’ while the music video of the song – in which they all starred - was projected behind them. It was an event that said something not only about the fashion industry, but also the preoccupations of the rest of the world. We were obsessed with these women.

Rising to fame in the early 80s, Naomi Campbell, Linda Evangelista, Christy Turlington, Claudia Schiffer, Cindy Crawford, and (later) Kate Moss came to be known as the ‘Big Six’: the official and universally accepted crew of super-duper models. It was never just their jaw-dropping looks that skyrocketed them to fame however they had, as Donatella professed, ‘special personalities’. They had brains and business-savvy as impressive as their glossy hair and gym-honed physiques. Michael Kors once said of Crawford, ‘Cindy changed the perception of the ‘sexy American girl’ from classic blue eyed blonde to a more sultry brunette with brains, charm, and professionalism to spare.’ Soon, the Supers dominated the runways, the magazines, and the big ad campaigns to such a degree that they gained more control than the designers themselves. They were soon dictating the entire fashion industry, deciding which photographers, hairdressers, and makeup artists they would or would not work with. They made fashion history, shaping the landscape of fashion photography of the 90s. It was Linda Evangelisata who gave Mario Testino his big break by choosing

82

feature

Fashion Karl Lagerfeld with the 90s Supers.

83

feature

Fashion

Cindy Crawford in 2013

84

feature

Fashion

him to shoot her for a German Vogue cover. They simultaneously walked haute couture runways, and posed naked for Rolling Stone.

They were beauty queens, icons, celebrities, entrepreneurs and rockstars all rolled into one big beautiful package.

Big being the operative word: these were not the rake-thin, sticklebacked models we see sloping down the runways today. In fact, all bar Naomi and Kate would have been considered plus sized models today with their US 6 (UK 10) measurements. Beacons of aerobics-sculpted silhouettes, these women had hips and breasts which appealed to a male audience as much as their female fans.

The full-bodied supermodels became objects of male desire in a way that hanger-thin high-fashion models aren’t (Claudia posed for Playboy) while also embodying feminist ideals of strength, independence, and self-confidence. They formed a protective sisterhood: apparently when a certain designer refused to book Naomi because he didn’t use black models, the rest of the Supers refused to walk for him either.

Yet, despite their seemingly unerring status, something had to give. The supermodel domination had been going strong for nearly a decade and foreboding clues came in 1993 when Valentino, Gianfranco Ferré, and Alberta Ferretti dropped Linda Evangelista from their new campaigns. Women’s Wear Daily declared that supermodels were on their way out. So, how do you take away a woman’s power? Remove her muscles, her hips and breasts, her hormones - and voila - you have a non-threatening vision of beauty and womanhood. The grunge moment of the early 90s reshaped the physical ideal of the decade and led to the ascent of a more androgynous archetype. The movement lauded Kate Moss and her innate disheveled aesthetic. Straddling both supermodel and waif, Moss became the poster girl for a change that still emanates today. The original Supers were ousted, considered inappropriate for the severe, minimalist aesthetic that dominated - glamazons just didn’t look good in Jil Sander suits.

But the winds of change have started again. In a backlash against the narcissistic and over-exposed ‘selfie generation’, the ‘untouchable’ Supers are reclaiming their places. 25 years after Christy Turlington became the face of Calvin Klein, the 44-year-old mother, model and philanthropist is teaming up with the fashion brand again to front their underwear campaign. Meanwhile, the original Guess Girl, Claudia Schiffer, was chosen to front the brand’s ‘30 Sexy Years’ anniversary campaign, which could even be considered better than her iconic ads from 1989. In 2012, Cindy Crawford returned to Shape magazine in a gold swimsuit to mark 20 years since her first cover with the magazine, looking every inch the power woman we admired over two decades ago.

Naomi Campbell - who paved the way for models of colour by appearing as the first black model of Vogue‘s famous September issue in 1989 – returned to star in the Roberto Cavalli spring/ summer 2012 ad campaign. Linda Evangelista resumed her title with a big splash, appearing in the Chanel spring/summer 2012 campaign and editorials for Vogue Italia and W magazine. And of course, the all-powerful Kate Moss recently became a contributing editor at British Vogue, a magazine she has featured on the cover of 33 times since her debut in 1993.

‘Supermodels like we once were don’t exist anymore,’ said Claudia Schiffer. And she’s right, but perhaps they will one day.

The Supers return marks a seismic shift in what we expect from women in the fashion industry nowadays. Campaigns against underweight models like the Model Equity Code are screaming for us to cease venerating women for self-emaciation and to look at their talents outside of being a decent clotheshorse. There is a feminist undercurrent bubbling in the fashion industry today.

Just look at Prada’s spring/summer 2014 collection, laced with feminist allegories. ‘When I started, fashion was the worst place to be if you were a leftist feminist,’ Miuccia Prada said in a recent

85

feature

Fashion

The fashion industry needs iconic women to maintain their allure, thereby ensuring that when they do speak out, the world puts down their smart phones and listens. interview with the British Telegraph’s Stella magazine. ‘I always had a problem with it...I suppose I felt guilty not to be doing something more important, more political. So in a way I am trying to use the company for these other activities.’ The Supers comeback has a similar message - as well as their recent fashion accolades, they are reminding the world that they have intelligence to match their beauty. Instead of using their social standing to generate a big following on social media to give themselves a voice, they’re using their prominence to voice the needs of others. In 2005, Chirsty Turlington directed No Woman, No Cry, a documentary exploring maternal health around the world and shortly thereafter, cofounded Every Mother Counts, a non-profit that aims to educate people on maternal mortality.

Social media prompted a fast track to fame, but certain modern models have confused this with the opportunity for self-promotion, documenting their wardrobes, the parties they go to and the green smoothies they drink. Linda Evangelista resolutely refuses to create a twitter account, but don’t mistake that for arrogance or passivity. In his obituary John Casablancas, the founder of Elite Model Management, was quoted as saying Linda was the only model who ever thanked him for helping her become such a big success. They are grateful and know that with great fame comes great responsibility. Yes, they appear ‘untouchable’ and perhaps the fashion industry needs iconic women to maintain their allure, thereby ensuring that when they do speak out, the world puts down their smart phones and listens.

Do the Supers personify modern feminism? Well, if their return comes with the encouragement to know and use our own minds, becoming fashion editors, film directors, businesswomen and philanthropists then here’s to female Freedom.

86

Linda Evangelista in 1995

88

belles

Society

belles

Society

The Gilded Empress:

Tory Burch From the humble beginnings of her first New York store to becoming an international symbol of female strength and independence, MOJEH steals Tory Burch from her A-list studded Rodeo Drive store opening to discover how she became the most sought after designer, from Manhattan to the Middle East and everywhere in between.

A

my Adams, Jessica Alba, Hailee Steinfeld – no, this isn’t the cast of Hollywood’s latest Oscar shoo-in, it’s just some of the glittering crowd celebrating the opening of Tory Burch’s West Coast Flagship. As these screen starlets lust over the shiny new collection adorning the rails on the first floor of the stunning three-tier boutique, upstairs Q-Tip is DJing as Rashida Jones, Emmy Rossum and Eva Amurri shimmy to ‘Rapper’s Delight’. Another floor up, Jaime King, Brad Goreski and Liberty Ross are on the patio, engrossed in a screening of Lisa Eisner’s dreamy short film that showcases the limited edition Rodeo Drive Collection, designed by Burch to honour the new boutique.

Shot within the lush environs of Lotusland near Santa Barbara, the film strikingly exhibits the collection’s inspirations: the flowers of Southern California and the glamour of Old Hollywood.

‘Creativity and business can work together,’ Burch confides as we cosy up in a corner.

She’s referring not just to the store and the corresponding short film but also to her career in general. ‘You’ve got to have fun with fashion.’

Burch’s imagination and reverence for understated, natural beauty is reflected in the décor too, as bountiful green hydrangea arrangements flood the 4,700 square-foot space with organic splendour. The interior, which has been custom-designed and brought to life by architect Daniel Romualdez, is scattered with personal touches across every inch of the intimate boutique: black and white photos of the Burch family, flea market finds like tables and mirrors the designer scooped up while traveling in Paris

and Morocco, and even needlepoint pillows adorned with quotes from Burch’s childhood, including ‘Everything begets thee to me.’ Even the catering is unique to Burch as guests (or more appropriately, friends) enjoy Philly cheesesteaks (a homage to her hometown) and sugar-dusted doughnut bits (Burch’s favourites).

That’s the thing about Burch, while she may be heading up a globally recognised, billion dollar brand, she never trained as a fashion designer or a businesswomen. Thus, the reason Tory Burch the brand has become a global institution, adored the world over, is because it comes with all the familiarity and affability of a local independent boutique. Or in her own words,‘It’s simply about creating beautiful products that make women happy.’ Over the past decade, Burch has built an impressive empire on her humble tunics and T-logoed gold-medallion flats. In an aggressive market, she has steadily cultivated a reputation for offering chic and colourful bohemian-preppy sportswear at accessible price points, reportedly garnering the modest designer over $1 billion in sales last year.

Burch, who is both creative director and chief executive of her eponymous fashion company, has derived her unprecedented success from not just churning out another trend-rocketing label, but by developing a ‘lifestyle’. Her ethos was inspired by her idyllic childhood, and her close relationship with her family. ‘My parents were very infused in my life, they always had a certain authenticity within their lifestyle. We grew up on a farm and were very family oriented.

I grew up as a total tomboy.’

89

90

belles

Society

belles

Society

Burch has blossomed from a tomboy into a pretty, petite blonde, fully personifying the allAmerican optimism-meets-pragmatism spirit her garments display. Born in Pennsylvania, as a child she considered becoming a psychiatrist, but instead studied Art History at the University of Philadelphia. Upon graduating, she ‘cold-called’ fashion designer Zoran, who offered her a job as design assistant, permitting she could start the next week. Confidence spurred her to move to New York and take her first tentative steps into fashion. Following this, Burch went on to work as a sittings assistant for Harper’s Bazaar, before moving into PR and advertising at Ralph Lauren, Vera Wang and Loewe during Narciso Rodriguez’s tenure. ‘I learnt on the job, constantly pushing myself to try new things.’

Her next new thing? Burch eventually launched her own brand out of her New York apartment in 2004. With the same valor that lured her to New York, she jumped into her new venture headfirst, launching multiple product categories and a standalone retail store, as well as e-commerce all in the one day. The direct-toconsumer strategy gave her total control over the customer experience from the get-go and provided a powerful platform to shape the brand’s personality. By the end of its opening day, the first Tory Burch boutique, located in what was at the time an ‘up-and-coming’ area of Manhattan, had almost completely sold out of inventory. Upper East Side socialites, cool magazine editors and top-tier fashion executives stampeded to the launch, apparently stripping to their underwear right by the racks, desperate to buy into this ‘new uniform’. ‘The rapid growth has been completely organic and down to having such a great team around me,’ Burch modestly assures us. ‘I’ve built this brand without advertising; it’s been completely organic,’ she adds with a glimmer of pride.

Indeed, it was more of a subversive growth for Burch, as her T-logo medallion became like the emblem to a secret style club at top society soirees.

Drawing from her encyclopaedic knowledge of vintage fashion, Burch blended timeless design with an eclectic, modern sensibility. Printed pieces with bold bohemian detailing, super chic bags and shoes, and a stunning beach range soon became her signatures. Of course, her greatest free editorial happened when just ten months into trading, Oprah invited her onto the show in

order to meet the mastermind behind New York’s most influential new look. ‘I love to work,’ Burch said during her 2005 appearance on The Oprah Winfrey Show. ‘I live a life where I take chances, and if I believe in something, I go for it.’ Burch’s upbeat attitude stole the hearts of those who’d already fallen for her product and cemented her reputation as ‘the next big thing’ – after airing toryburch.com received close to 8 million hits.

Today, the brand is stocked globally in over 80 Tory Burch boutiques and over 1,000 department and specialty stores worldwide; reportedly turning over $800 million in sales in 2012. In January 2013, Forbes magazine estimated that Burch is now a billionaire with a net worth of $1 billion. She is technologically savvy too and has established a strong presence on Twitter, Instagram and Pinterest. Yet, despite a seemingly relentless quest for world domination, Burch has maintained her decorum, and uses her success to inspire others. ‘Women should be just as ambitious as men and be proud of it,’ she said recently in a video released by Stanford University, cementing herself as a feminist and a philanthropist. In 2009, she established the Tory Burch Foundation, empowering women to strengthen their economic livelihoods through small loans, mentoring and entrepreneurial education. ‘I take my social responsibility seriously and through establishing TBF I want to empower women of all ages, and across all industries.’ Burch sets an incredible example for her mentees: while many investors have been vying for her company to be taken public, she has unyieldingly preserved her independence, and remains the company’s chief executive, head designer and biggest shareholder.

Dressed head to toe in the Rodeo Drive Collection – a powder blue, embellished metallic suit with a silvery floral shirt, matching shoes and dazzling flower-drop earrings – Burch mingles with ease around the room, almost as though she’s a party hostess in her own home, surrounded by close friends and family. Everyone is dressed in their favourite pieces from the collection and twinkling throughout the boutique is the now ubiquitous gold T-logo. One guest, who has flown all the way from China to celebrate her friend’s new store, reveals that in Chinese culture the logo is considered to be good luck because it is round. It certainly seems to have worked a treat for Tory.

91

Interview

Mojeh

He’s in Fashion The suave Hollywood star took a break to get off the road and start a family. Now he’s back landing leads, winning big awards and garnering the world’s attention again. We stole man of the moment Matthew McConaughey away from the red-carpet to talk fatherhood, relationships and finding his artistic flair.

A

nyone who knows him, or has spent the tiniest modicum of time in his company, knows Matthew McConaughey has a distinct ‘thing’ for the open road, the call of the wild.

When he first gained serious notoriety - for the 1996 adaptation of John Grisham’s legal bestseller A Time to Kill, he bought a one-way ticket to Peru where he hiked Machu Picchu and canoed the Amazon. But mostly, he is on the road.

‘Most of the time on a road trip, I’m just driving. That’s my favourite place to think, or not think. I don’t go away to think about something, but I like to put myself in a place where answers sort of show up. My favourite place for that is behind the wheel, heading somewhere,’ he says.

As McConaughey’s unusual January 18 Screen Actors Guild Awards Best Actor acceptance speech demonstrated (he invoked Neptune, no one quite understood why), this is a not a conventional movie star. One might surmise, however, that a guy famously arrested for disturbing the peace in 1999, would not be au fait with the notion of acting awards.

But surprisingly, McConaughey, 44, is all for the recognition - just as well given that his winning the Best Actor Academy Award for playing Ron Woodroof in Dallas Buyers Club seems assured (we will find out early this month). ‘I definitely believe it is completely fair to have measures of excellence in

92

the arts. Some people say, ‘you can’t judge art’, but that’s like saying 12-year-old Jane Doe’s diary is as good as Shakespeare,’ he says.

How is McConaughey finding it, winning and winning again? ‘Very nice,’ he beams, teeth considerably whiter than they were when we first met at an Austin, Texas hotel in 1998. ‘If I’m in the conversation, that’s cool.’

He was chewing tobacco back then, and smelt of pheromones, shall we say. But he was affable, funny, sincere, and memorable.

Today in Los Angeles, McConaughey, in an exquisite, expensive, black leather biker jacket, and slightly orange thanks to make-up from an earlier round of TV interviews, has a nasty-looking grazed wound across the knuckles of his right hand. He’s not forthcoming about the cause, beyond ‘a stunt’, presumably on Interstellar which he is currently filming for Christopher Nolan with Jessica Chastain and Anne Hathaway. His face is still slightly gaunt.

These days, with wife Camila Alves, 32, and children Levi, five, Vida, four, and Livingston, one, in tow, McConaughey has presumably progressed from the iconic silver Airstream trailer he towed all over America and also lodged for extended periods at a Malibu trailer park. ‘My living space is so small that I can sit on the toilet and scramble eggs at the same time,’ he once joked. ‘How cool is that?’ A trailer park as ‘permanent’ address, even one in Malibu, eventually ceased to be viable, not least because his family expanded rather rapidly.

McConaughey met Alves in 2006. A Brazilian who had arrived in the US to visit her aunt at 15 and never left, Alves has been modelling since her teens, has also worked as a TV presenter and designs a line of handbags with her mother. His romantic life sorted (he and Alves married in Texas in June 2012) and McConaughey’s professional life also soared.

After an almost-two year break from cinema while he was attending to fatherhood, McConaughey came storming back out of the gate in 2011 with The Lincoln Lawyer - or at least out of the back of a chauffeured, battered Lincoln Town Car, his unorthodox criminal defence lawyer’s ‘office’. Killer Joe, Magic Mike and the much-admired Mud continued what Hollywood circles called ‘The McConaissance’.

‘I just needed to let time catch up with me,’ he noted at the time of that first acclaim in the 1990s. Time, it could be said, has at last caught up to McConaughey who, when remotely possible, has been holed up in the comparative sanctuary of the family’s 1,600-acre working ranch in West Texas.

93

Lesley O’Toole / The Independent / The Interview People

Interview

Mojeh

94

Interview

Mojeh

Interview

Mojeh

McConaughey had never considered acting and, as far as he knew, there wasn’t a whiff of artistic temperament in the family.

As if the Dallas Buyers Club buzz isn’t overwhelming enough, he is also riding the wave of The Wolf of Wall Street’s success, given his scene-stealing role as Jordan Belfort’s (Leonardo DiCaprio) chest-thumping mentor. And he has a new hit HBO TV series airing, True Detective, in which he plays a tortured detective opposite long-time friend Woody Harrelson. Is there anything to which he attributes this sea-change?

‘Part of it is just growing up and part of it is I’m very turned on and excited about all kind of things.

Probably more things now than I used to be. I work hard to maintain the good things in my life that I’ve built - friendships, work, family, my own time.

Sometimes you’ve got to go, ‘ah man, I haven’t seen my brother in three months’. But it feels really great when you can think: ‘Boy, all my relationships are good, people that I love are good, and my relationship with them is good. My career, I’m dialled, it feels good.

Health is good.’ But to maintain that, when things change, you’ve got to be nimble at times.’

Calculated or not, this career recalibration could not have been better timed. As recently as 2009, McConaughey was starring in films with titles like The Ghosts of Girlfriends Past and before that, Fool’s Gold and even (ouch), Failure to Launch.

But McConaughey is not haunted by bad films nor ghosts of girlfriends past (he previously dated Sandra Bullock, Penelope Cruz and Ashley Judd, and remains friendly with them all).

‘I have a few things I would like to say,’ he announces, teasingly. ‘I’m not selling but I’m angling with our minutes!’ And he is off. McConaughey, in that lilting Texan drawl which is somehow exactly the way you imagine it should be, could talk for hours about Ron Woodroof and Dallas Buyers Club. Unchecked, he actually would.

Finding the voice of Woodroof was his first challenge.

‘There were hours and hours of tapes and transcripts from our screenwriter Mark Borten’s conversations with Ron. Watching those was really, really helpful.

Seeing what he says, and seeing what he doesn’t say. His wit and humour were right there, then all of a sudden he’d pop into a conspiracy theory and then pop right back. He would be all over the place, completely convinced the whole time. He was a smuggler and a dealer. He wanted to be Scarface.’

But still, McConaughey hadn’t ‘found’ Woodroof, until the subject’s family intervened with what McConaughey calls ‘the secret weapon’. ‘His family gave me his diary and it was the diary he kept up to before he got sick. That gave me his monologue, this dialogue he was having with himself. Because the tapes were from after he had the Dallas Buyers Club .

‘The diary was: ‘I got nothing to do. I got up again this morning, six o’clock, I had my coffee. I tucked my shirt in, pressed my pants, waited for my pager to go off, to get a call, get a little job done and nobody called.’ Seeing who he was before he got sick really informed me because here is a guy who turned 30 days of life, as he was told, to seven more years. That was the first time when he had purpose in his life, ironically because he was having to fight for his life.’

McConaughey gives an impassioned performance in Dallas Buyers Club. He credits an anonymous friend, who has since died, with showing him the power of that formula in action. ‘He was going through a battle with cancer and, as the cancer started eating his body away, I saw his fight coming out more ferociously, not receding.’

McConaughey’s own fight is ferocious too. If his earliest career plan was to be a criminal defence lawyer, fighting for others, his eventual plan has come full circle to fighting for himself. ‘I’d say I have more of a selfish desire now when it comes to work,’ he admits. It has been a long time coming.

McConaughey, a Texan native, was set to start law classes at university when he felt something wasn’t right and decided to switch to film. ‘I remember that call to Mum and Dad and after about a 20-second pause, they were very supportive. They liked the hope, the individuality I took.’ McConaughey had never considered acting and, as far as he knew, there wasn’t a whiff of artistic temperament in the family.

‘But then after my dad passed away [six days into the shooting of his son’s big break, 1993’s Dazed and Confused], I found all these old paintings and pottery he had done. I said: ‘Mum, when was he doing this?’

‘So there was something artistic in the blood line that I didn’t know about. It was neat to find out those things.”

95

96

Image courtesy of Jason Kempin at Getty Images for Alice + Olivia.

interview

Mojeh

interview

Mojeh

With All

Her Hart Famed for her gap-toothed smile and surfer girl come rock chick vibe, we can’t get enough of Jessica Hart. The Australian is frequently photographed off as well as on the runway; for her style, for hitting the party scene, and for her prominent voice on social media. We speak to the model about her life, style and much more.

S

he has it all. Those tousled blonde beach-kissed waves of hair that ripple down her olive skin, and her baby blue eyes that firmly fixate on you. As always, she’s all heart with her unstoppable quirky smile. And it couldn’t be more fitting for a girl who oozes that insouciant attitude which comes with ease to many Australians.

Her laidback mindset is evident in her style - that enviable thrown together look with added quirks - that so few can actually achieve. When we spoke, her nonchalant approach was on top form.

There’s very good reason Hart walks the walk for Victoria’s Secret. Her body is so lean and sculpted it’s difficult for a mere mortal to comprehend. It’s simple. Girls want to be her, and guys want to date her.

Hart gives away more than a few insights into her world. And it’s like peering

through a looking glass. But it’s no big secret that models hang out with other models. ‘I have many friends in the industry but having our schedules we barely ever get to hang out. Jessica Gomes, Nicole Trunfio and Poppy Delevingne are probably my closest friends and when we do get to hang out we have a ball!’ Thanks to the open book of social media, when they do hang out we’ll get to read those chapters in the life of Ms Hart. And she’s the first to embrace this now expected daily occurrence, but it’s all for good reason.

‘It allows us to have a voice, something models didn’t usually have. I love the freedom of it, although it doesn’t leave much for surprise anymore! Everything is on Instagram now before it even comes out.’

But cracks are starting to appear in the looking glass. Having such a prominent voice can lead to saying too much, too readily. With Hart’s hurtful comments towards music maestro Taylor Swift (Hart strongly disagreed with Swift performing during Victoria’s Secret annual show, but later apologized for her comments) nearly brought upon a career catastrophe. It’s all turned on its head; Hollywood actresses preserve their privacy like mothers protect their newborns, and models try to conflict their intimidating beauty with appearing more ‘real’ to the world. In light of the 25th anniversary of the supermodels, a new generation of models are emerging, and times have changed from the days of enigmatic and elusive model muses.

Jessica, who is now signed to one of Paris’

97

interview

Mojeh

98

Today’s model is a multi-trick pony, and Hart embodies every aspect of what it takes to succeed.

style. I did start to get noticed for that and probably became more popular for that than my actual career. I think that really helped take my modeling to the next level, as it helped set me apart from other girls out there. So I have to wonder if without that I would have made it to where I am today.’

With thousands of Instagram followers and the paparazzi always hot on her heels, using social media is proving a savvy work tool for Hart. And maybe it lightens the load whilst being on the road. She tells us her favourite part of living the modeling life is ‘the travel and the spontaneity of it all. I never know what’s coming next and I love that. Yes, it makes it hard to plan anything and it’s a little lonely doing it by yourself, but that’s just all part of it.’ Jessica has found her voice, moulded her world and she’s not going to play the elusive muse for anyone.

Image courtesy of Pascal Le Segretain at Getty Images.

top agencies, Women Management, is the first to admit that she never gave any interest to such women during her childhood. ‘I was a real tomboy growing up, I never looked at magazines or even knew what Chanel was, so I didn’t really pay any attention to the models. I think that, being Australian, Elle Macpherson was the only one I knew of.’ What if Jessica had started her career during their rising reign? ‘That’s really hard to answer. I started nearly 14 years ago now (Hart is now 27) and it already took me a long time to crack the industry, so to speak. It wasn’t until four or five years ago that I started doing jobs that put me on the map. I’d say, had I started six years before I actually did, I wouldn’t have got to that point and I probably would of given up before anyone knew who I was.’

But today’s model is a multi-trick pony, and Hart embodies every aspect of what it takes to succeed. She’s famed for her impeccable sense of style just as much as her beauty, of which she is well aware: ‘It was about five years ago when I developed my own personal style and started really playing with it. That was also around the beginning of blogging and people getting recognised for street

A wholly owned subsidiary of

in focus

Fashion

The Power of the Parisian It’s revered from politics to powerhouses, from the street to society’s elite. But it’s a French thing. The trouser suit is a Parisian’s fail-safe staple for any occasion and it’s making a return. The French way.

B

rought to us in 1966 as a gift from Yves Saint Laurent, Le Smoking tuxedo opened the gates to androgynous styles for women. Forward on forty years and the suit has become such a common daily occurrence it can sometimes be difficult to decipher between the good and the bad. But its attraction has never waned. For spring/summer 14 it was seen on the runway, the front row and the street.

The Parisian almost always opts for a colour palette of navy, black or white when adorning a trouser suit. They don’t do a cocktail dress. They do tuxedos instead. ‘Women think of all the colours except the absence of colour. I have said that black has it all. White too. Their beauty is absolute. It is the perfect harmony,’ famously quipped Coco Chanel. It’s the simple detailing fused with Parisian suave which makes for such an ineffably chic woman.

These Parisian women are not only stylish, they’re business savvy too. An expensive suit never goes out of style. It’s a sound investment of two parts: a blazer and trousers (or a skirt) can be split up as constituent parts. On the street and outside shows during every fashion season, a black blazer, with a white shirt and blue jeans has become a firm favourite of the fashion leaders.

It’s the new suit, French-ified.

Fittingly, it was the French fashion houses leading with suits placed within their spring/summer 14 collections. Hedi Slimane imagined a more grungey, glorified adaptation for the 20-somethings this season. Christian Dior created a delectable uber chic black tailored ensemble, and the ever-wearable and loose-fitting suit came from Hermes.

The unwavering allure is in its lack of ostentation. The French are famously modest in their sartorial demeanor and their suits work time after time.

SAINT LAURENT

100

THE DUBAI MALL FASHION AVENUE, 1st FLOOR 04 339 9186 – GALERIES LAFAYETTE DPT STORE, 1st FLOOR 04 382 7333 (EXT.2721), zadigetvoltaire.com

102

Season

New

Season

New

I Am Woman, Hear Me Roar Marching to the beat of the tribal drum, fashion hits the nomadic trail. Journeying to the far flung corners of the Earth, the wild women of the world wander. Not trailblazers, firebrands or hell-raisers, but a force of nature. With this season’s walk on the wild side, designers hit the road to be at one with the unknown.

S

pring’s runways were laden with worldly female tribes. At Alexander McQueen, Sarah Burton dabbled with primal detailing and ethnic-inspired prints.

Heavily embroidered fringed capes were flung across backs at Valentino and trekked down the runway. Moving to a seriously sinister mood, Givenchy fused artisan craftsmanship with avant-garde aesthetic. It heralded a start into a fierce, fresh temper. It seems that designers have decided upon a complete 360 degree spin from AW13, saying goodbye to the functional fashionista from a mere season ago. Her innocence has been taken and replaced with something darker, more than a little mysterious. This woman is wild and free, she can’t be tamed. Is she from Eastern Africa? Maybe she hails from the Amazonian entwined vine forest floor? As designers tested our geographical logic, we became au fait with their faraway bazaar.

Finding a connection with the wider world was hot on the agenda for spring. The untamed woman claimed every aspect of the natural world, from art and beyond.

Picking up a brush and brazenly splashing paint across your outfit is the objet d’art for summer. At Celine, bold was better. Designer Phoebe Philo took abstract to the extreme with in-your-face strokes of primary colours.

Karl Lagerfeld paid homage to artist Jeff Koons with his use of intangible art installations at Chanel, heightening his Pantone array of dresses. Portraits of political street muralists were at the forefront for Muccia Prada, found on fur, bags and beyond.

The light bulbs were constantly lit during the star-studded affair that the fashion season brings to the sartorial capitals of the world. From Kim and Kanye at Givenchy to the most stylishly positioned perching from the Brit pack at Erdem, including Alexa Chung, Pixie Geldof, Laura Bailey and Daisy Lowe. The Class of 2014 were all seated on the front row at Burberry Prorsum, including Sienna Miller, Harry Styles, Douglas Booth and Suki Waterhouse.

And, of course, the proverbial professionals who occupy the most powerful seats within the fashion circuit were out in force. From Grace Coddington to Franca Sozzani to Anna Wintour, the fashion powerhouses were leading the followers.

Haute Couture arrived in the City of Lights with aplomb as always. Every facet of the couture shows bring arresting beauty from floors to faces. This year, we were captivated by the finer detail and sartorial surprises. Intricate navy leaves adorned Dior dresses giving a picturesque printed vista into their world. Moving from Dior to Chanel, footwear was focused on a surprising sportswear vibe. The house

introduced the couture skater girl, with shiny bumbags, matching knee-pads and trainers festooned in glitter – all twinned with ball gowns. It was all about the body and it’s athletic abilities. Acclaimed actress Tilda Swinton and music maestro Lily Allen graced the front row. Elie Saab brought our attention back to the craftsmanship of floral appliqué and all things pretty. Valentino, as always, played to the beautiful tune of couture and produced an array of perfect gowns, and a historic moment in the making occurred as Ralph & Russo became the first British brand in over one hundred years to show at couture.

And this year was as mesmerizing as ever for the beauty calendar. Sourcing a reconnection with our inner selves was central. Flawlessly executed by make-up artists, dewy complexions, non-chalant nude lips and barely-there blush proved more than enough. Runway after runway stuck to the golden fashion rule of less is more. A fresh palette for spring was deemed essential. If you thought blue eye shadow was left behind with the disco divas of the 80s, think again. It’s back in electric blue, aquamarine and pastel pickings. Prepare to fall into a blue hue over the coming months. Giving your hair a straight talking to is all you need achieve this season as sleek and poker-straight will be carried off by everyone and anyone. And as much as we love being inspired by the beauty looks on the catwalk, the fresh faces on the front row equally captivate us. Sienna Miller was seen championing this season’s lip essential, the fiery hue, and front row favourite Olivia Palermo was the girl with the gilded touch, swathed in shimmering gold.

The City of Lights produced an abundance of radiance and ethereal beauty for Haute Couture. Fantastical innocence was at the forefront in Paris. A modern dusting of blackened lids and silk headscarves were opulent at Armani Prive.

Spiked hair halos shone at Chanel with eyelids festooned in glitter. Madame Butterfly was fluttering against faces at John Paul Gautier as delicately placed headpieces stole the show. It wasn’t the first and last time we saw them; pure white wings rested on pale complexions at Alexis Mabille.

Lips melted into skin and eyes evoked a sense of drama with heavy eyeliner on the Valli Girls.

With every season comes highs and lows as the fashion wheel trudges forward: Marc Jacobs bowed out in a burst of blackness from Louis Vuitton and Jil Sander waved goodbye to her own label for the fourth time. But as we head forward toward the fresh scents of spring and the continual sunshine of summer, it’s time to embody the wonder of a wanderer, get lost in the global tracks and reconnect with our roots. For this season’s woman is saying only one thing: I am woman, hear me roar.

103

reports

Trend

National Geographic 1

Marching to the beat of the tribal drum, fashion hits the nomadic trail. Mix exotic fabrics and prints from the far flung corners of the Earth.

104

reports

Trend 2

3

4

6

5

7

1. VALENTINO | 2. CELINE | 3. ALEXANDER MCQUEEN | 4. CHLOE | 5. EDUN | 6. MISSONI | 7. EMILIO PUCCI

105

reports

Trend

Blossoming Botantics 1

Take a walk through the Secret Garden of floral 3D appliquĂŠ, scientifically illustrated blooms and flower motifs.

106

reports

Trend 2

3

4

6

5

7

1. DRIES VAN NOTEN | 2. CHRISTOPHER KANE | 3. JONATHAN SAUNDERS | 4. DOLCE & GABBANA | 5. NINA RICCI | 6. MULBERRY | 7. HERMES

107

Trend

reports

Sports Day 1

It’s this season’s biggest player, so swap your stilettos for sneakers, and your pencil skirts for hi-tech fabric sport shorts.

108

reports

Trend 2

3

4

6

5

7

1. EMILIO PUCCI | 2. ALEXANDER WANG | 3. BALENCIAGA | 4. CHRISTOPHER RAEBURN | 5. JONATHAN SAUNDERS | 6. LOUISE GOLDIN | 7. LACOSTE

109

Trend

reports

Double Up 1

Rip it, shred it, tie it. There’s no other way to wear denim: dress it up or grunge it down.

110

reports

Trend 2

3

4

6

5

7

1. MAX MARA | 2. BALMAIN | 3. DKNY | 4. MARQUES ALMEIDA | 5. PAUL & JOE | 6. RACHEL ZOE | 7. VERSACE

111

Trend

reports

Checking in 1

Checks have transcended from the streets of Paris to the runway. And where Parisians lead, we follow.

112

reports

Trend 2

3

4

6

5

7

1. HOUSE OF HOLLAND | 2. ALEXANDER WANG | 3. BALMAIN | 4. CARVEN | 5. DEREK LAM | 6. MARGARET HOWELL | 7. OSCAR DE LA RENTA

113

Trend

reports

New Musings 1

Theatre and fashion are never far apart. The new eccentric outerwear is black, bold and unabashedly out-there.

114

reports

Trend 2

3

4

6

5

7

1. ANN DEMEULEMEESTER| 2. CHRISTOPHER KANE | 3. COMME DES GARCONS | 4. CELINE | 5. J.W. ANDERSON | 6. GIVENCHY | 7. LOUIS VUITTON

115

Trend

reports

School of Art 1

Paint yourself a pretty picture. Brushstrokes, portraits and watercolours are all in the hands of the artist this season.

116

reports

Trend 2

3

4

6

5

7

1.ERDEM | 2.CHANEL | 3. CALVIN KLEIN | 4. ANTONIO MARRAS | 5. JIL SANDER | 6. GIORGIO ARMANI | 7. PRADA

117

Trend

reports

Word On The Street 1

Pick one word for across your t-shirt. Say it loud, and say it proud.

118

reports

Trend 2

3

4

6

5

7

1. PAUL & JOE | 2. CHRISTOPHER KANE | 3. DIOR | 4. JEREMY SCOTT | 5. MISSONI | 6. KENZO | 7. SISTER BY SIBLING

119

Trend

reports

Summer Coatings 1

Fashion has turned its hand to practicality. Summer coats are now essential, from relaxed trenches to embellished cover-ups.

120

reports

Trend 2

3

4

6

5

7

1. TOM FORD | 2. BURBERRY PRORSUM | 3. DOLCE & GABBANA | 4. GIAMBATTISTA VALLI | 5. JASON WU | 6. MARY KATRANTZOU | 7. NINA RICCI

121

Trend

reports

Zip Up 1

It’s back: the sports-luxe bomber jacket. Covet the coolest cover-up of the summer.

122

reports

Trend 2

3

4

6

5

7

1. PRABAL GURUNG | 2. REED KRAKOFF | 3. KENZO | 4. BALMAIN | 5. MARNI | 6. JONATHAN SAUNDERS | 7. ROLAND MOURET

123

Trend

reports

Oxford Option 1

It’s no longer business as usual for the clean white shirt. It’s buttoned down, playful and so much more.

124

reports

Trend 2

3

4

6

5

7

1. ANTHONY VACCaRELLO | 2. ALEXANDER WANG | 3. ACNE | 4. ALTUZaRRA | 5. BOTTEGA VENETA | 6. PRABAL GURUNG | 7. nina ricci

125

Trend

reports

Love, Lust And Lace 1

Opt for lady-like lace in all its delicate delightfulness. Move from lightweight dresses to chic inserts for a little va-va-voom.

126

reports

Trend 2

3

4

6

5

7

1. GIAMBATTISTA VALLI | 2. BALMAIN | 3. DOLCE & GABBANA | 4. naeem Khan | 5. NINA RICCI | 6. MICHAEL KORS | 7. ELIE SAAB

127

Trend

reports

Sheer Delight 1

During the summer months, day slips into night. Thanks to sheer so do our sartorial choices.

128

reports

Trend 2

3

4

6

5

7

1. 3.1 PHILIP LIM | 2. BALENCIAGA | 3. BLUMARINE | 4. BURBERRY PRORSUM | 5. CHLOE | 6. NINA RICCI | 7. GIAMBATTISTA VALLI

129

reports

Colour

1

Whispers of White White is always a summer staple, but this time around orchestrate a white-out a la Gianfranco Ferre.

1. GIANFRANCO FERRE | 2. ALEXANDER WANG | 3. REED KRAKOFF | 4. PREEN | 5. RALPH LAUREN | 6. VICTORIA BECKHAM | 7. ROLAND MOURET

130

3 4

6

reports

Colour

2

5

7

131

reports

Colour

1

Make It Monotone Monochrome has had a fresh and modern makeover. Out with those 60s vibrations and in with ineffably chic attire.

1. JUANA MARTIN | 2. BALMAIN | 3. TIBI | 4. CHANEL | 5. PETER SOM | 6. VICTORIA BECKHAM | 7. ZADIG & VOLTAIRE

132

3 4

6

reports

Colour

2

5

7

133

reports

Colour

1

Shining Bright A silhouette in shimmering silver is sure to be a showstopper. Opt for an understated glistening metallic from Reed Krakoff for a less-is-more look.

1. REED KRAKOFF | 2. ANTONIO BERARDI | 3. ALTUZARRA | 4.

MAX MARA | 5. PACO RABANNE | 6. SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

134

3 4

6

reports

Colour

2

5

7

135

reports

Colour

1

And It Was Called Yellow Wear your brights sunny side up in canary yellow.

This primary colour is towing the line back into the fashion colour wheel.

1. PAUL SMITH | 2. BLUMARINE | 3. JUANA MARTIN | 4. DKNY | 5.

VERSACE | 6. RALPH LAUREN | OSCAR DE LA RENTA

136

3 4

6

reports

Colour

2

5

7

137

reports

Colour

1

Orange Is The New Black This fiery hue has lit up runway after runway. Never before has a citrus shade nearly stolen the limelight from the fashion pack’s firm favourite: black.

1. MONIQUE L’HUILLIER | 2. ALBERTA FERRETTI | 3. THOMAS TAIT | 4. ETRO | 5. J.W. ANDERSON | 6. TIBI | 7. HERMES

138

3 4

6

reports

Colour

2

5

7

139

reports

Colour

1

Pretty In Pink Pink has long been the hue du jour. In rose, fushia, blush, bubblegum…we’ll continue to take it in any shade.

1. PREEN | 2. CHANEL | 3. EMPORIO ARMANI | 4. PREEN | 5. TEMPERLEY LONDON | 6. badgley mischka | 7.

ANTONIO BERARDI

140

3 4

6

reports

Colour

2

5

7

141

reports

Colour

1

Blue Is The Warmest Colour Just like the world of art has its periods, so does the world of fashion, and we’re experiencing a blue period.

1. RALPH LAUREN | 2. ALBERTA FERRETTI | 3. SAINT LAURENT | 4.

DIANE VON FURSTENBERG | 5. ROLAND MOURET | 6. VALENTIN YUDASHKIN | 7. Vera wang

142

3 4

6

reports

Colour

2

5

7

143

reports

Show

My Way Or The High Way Marni SS14 Are you going to go my way? This was really the question posed from Consuelo Castiglioni through the screaming vocals of ‘My Way’ by the riotous rebel Sid Vicious. It was evident she was responding to the resurgence of fashion flora and athleticism. Yes, she did it her way, but will the fashion crowd favour?

There was a hard versus soft effect in progress on the runway - the silence of the models against the screaming vocals of Sid, and the juxposition of light tulle and ruffles like origami next to heavy tailored minimal trousers. But Marni never hides behind simplicity.

The use of 3D petal appliqué was in full view, a technique also witnessed across many more designers’ visions. Here, applied to bomber jackets

144

and coordinated with skirts, it paved an overall organic element like a blossoming flowerbed.

Graphic florals with a hard jagged edge were both new and refreshing. Paired with a rebirth of jewel encrusted visors and foam-layered sandals, the collection touched too on the sports vibe.

Marni gave us simple silhouettes of simple structures. Lines curved around the body, from belted pinched in waists to light fabrics loosely clung. Further highlighted by the colour choices of forest green muted against stark whites and pale grey, the mood moved from light to heavy in an instant; and it worked.

She faced it all, she stood tall and she did it her way.

And she did it very well.

145

reports

Show

reports

Show

Coming of Age Wes Gordon SS14 Coming of age is inevitable for all. Especially all who make the grand leap from presentation to runway in the fashion arena. It’s no easy feat - but Gordon has had a rare warm welcome from the playground of professionals.

From his early days (a mere moment ago) interning with Oscar de la Renta and Tom Ford, his passage into fully-fledged designer has happened with speed.

Who can claim at the tender age of 26 that their career-crowning glory moment thus far has been the vision of the First Lady wearing your design?

Well, Michelle Obama made that dream come true for Gordon last year.

This year, a nineties theme appeared to be ubiquitous among a number of the collections. Gordon’s was no different. He hung granite grey cashmere jumpers

146

over tasteful lavender pencil skirts lined with delicate black lace for a grunge effect. Cropped jackets and tops fused with high hung trousers and halter gowns. Do you remember those nineties mesh pullovers? So does Gordon. This time around he gave us instead one in pale pink with details of dotted black Swarovski crystals, oh so divine, a running theme which was only heightened by Nirvana’s ‘Come as You Are.’ It was hard to deter your eyes from the footwear: seriously elegant but with edge, thanks to a current collaboration with Manolo Blahnik.

With faithful fans such as Katy Perry, January Jones and Anna Wintour’s girl of the moment Lena Dunham supporting his sartorial success, Gordon’s transition from minor to major has been an ageless process.

147

reports

Show

reports

Show

A New Dawning Tod’s SS14 They say behind every great man is a great woman, and her name is Alessandra Facchinetti. Since February she’s been at the helm as Tod’s creative director and her light is beginning to shine. With her first ready-to-wear collection showcased, the buzz is still high as the label’s ambitions grow.

Facchinetti has an impressive track record behind her, from finding her footing at Miu Miu then onwards to Gucci - replacing the formidable Tom Ford - and settling at Valentino until 2008. The fashion crowd is holding onto their hats to see Tod’s profits soar in the coming months.

The runway was shrouded in a palette of rusty plum and clean white. These clothes were made by a woman for other women: feminine but always unfussy. From crisp white shirts with oversized

148

collars paired with perforated skirts to modernized shirtdresses, they oozed an appeal of everydayness, modelled by Karolina Kurkova whose presence added regality to the catwalk.

Leather was a firm favourite from Facchinetti, who mixed heavily draped leather capes and all-out leather dresses with elasticated waists. In contrast, one-shouldered dresses made from light-looking leather in polite pink were also extremely desirable, and the collection finished luxuriously with large luggage-style totes in a graphic two-tone and fringed moccasins.

The double-breasted trouser suits in an array of colours conveyed nothing less than a woman of power. For Diego Della Valle, Tod’s CEO, the future is in the hands of a great, great woman.

149

reports

Show

reports

Show

Say My Name Alexander Wang SS14 What’s his name? Alexander Wang. And he’s on a mission to not let us forget it. A sense of nostalgia drenched the runway in the form of logos. The first time around during logo mania in the nineties, Wang was still drudging through his teens. ‘That was the height of me in high school, reading and obsessing over magazines and being a fashion geek,’ he said before his show. It was obvious branding was at the top of Wang’s agenda.

This resurgence was more than a little fun-filled, if not extreme. This soon-to-be iconic name was bonded onto coats, gloves and wrapped around waists. It didn’t stop there. Capitalized lettering of ALEXANDER WANG was emblazoned in cut-out leather across the back of a trench. He added more fun and games by placing Parental Advisory Explicit Content on the front of half-mesh jumpers. Wang knows his generation: how they want to dress and

150

whom they want to dress for. He’s both commercially savvy and understands streetwear. Why else would music-come-fashion maestro Kanye West be perched on the front row? Along with Beyonce’s cool younger sister Solange Knowles and Courtney Love.

There was a clear sense of duality from the runway to the atmosphere: Wang chose to play two different songs, at the same time – ‘Simons Says’ by Pharoahe Monch and a more mellow ‘I See, I Say’ by Ebony Bones (with a refrain of ‘Alex, Alex, Alex’). Basketball style and boxer shorts were fused with clean and crisp shirts with clerical collars, either half-buttoned or simply single-buttoned.

It’s hard to comprehend that this man is still of a tender age, and not only designing for his own label, but also heading up Balenciaga. We have a feeling we’ll be saying - and wearing - Wang’s name for a long time to come.

151

reports

Show

reports

Show

New Lands Alexander McQueen SS14 Every now and then a collection comes along that deserves the golden accolade for originality. For Sarah Burton, the runway was immersed in magic.

‘Saying something new, saying something personal’ was how she described it. An innovative moment like that which turns the fashion crowd heading in a completely different direction is always one to uphold. Gone were the McQueen staples of rebellion and darkness, and Burton came into her own.

Laser-cut leather skirts and structurally caged bodices were at the forefront - but without aggression. Instead, the primal detailing evoked a sense of empowerment, strength and evolution.

Celtic warrior-style kilts hung on the waist and swung in layered checked prints in red, black and white, fastened by multiple rigid buckles. But, there wasn’t an anchor. ‘I didn’t want it to feel too

152

referenced to a period or a theme,’ Burton said at the show. Armed with metal-clad bracelets, cuffs and shiny gold or silver helmets, the warrior princess theme was hard to ignore. Or the Amazonian goddess. Or, maybe, the African Queen.

Burton’s lack of specificity may be prevalent, but the ethnic-inspired theme running through her designs is visionary. The movement from structured cropped jackets, dropped waist dresses to outfits laced in ostrich feathers heightened an incredible level of craftsmanship. Intricate beading could be seen from check to check, all mirrored by the largely chequered floor squares covering the runway – a runway laden with a worldly female tribe.

We didn’t need the soulful sound of Stevie Wonder in the background telling us who was the ‘Golden Lady,’ did we? Burton achieved that all by herself.

153

reports

Show

Style

Street

New York

Fashion Week Style Notes Dispatches from the streets; see what’s hot in the most eccentric of the fashion capitals.

Photographed by Kaitlin Rebesco

Childish, cartoon-like and Disney inspired: it’s a 3D delight.

154

155

Style

Street

Style

Street

Cool, modern and graphic cuts: black and white should always be together.

156

157

Style

Street

Style

Street

158

New Yorkers were all at sea in aquamarine, turquoise and jade.

159

Style

Street

Style

Street

Be the Queen Bee of fashion and mix a colour palette of yellow, black and white.

Pair paradisiacal prints with a brick red Chanel brick clutch.

Match your berry-stained lips with your insouciantly cool headphones.

160

Street

Style

Sculpt your feminine shape in structures of sartorial sense.

A bow at the back of your billowing dress is so beautiful, so basic.

Take to the streets in tumbling tulle a la Carrie Bradshaw.

161

EVERYTHING IN MOJEH MAGAZINE IS AVAILABLE TO

BY CONTACTING LOUIS FOURTEEN.

T : + 9 7 1

162

( 4 )

4 5 4

2 0 5 0

|

W : S H O P M O J E H . C O M

report

Breakers

Couture

The Rule

Where last season’s couture took a turn back to basics with a no-nonsense emphasis on form and fabric, this summer’s collections throw caution to the wind with the introduction of trainers, and an avant-garde approach to length and shape. Yes, the princess gowns from the fairytale designers are still rife, but expect the unexpected as some dare to leave age-old couture codes wailing in the wind. From the traditional to the unconventional, engage in a cool new aesthetic.

163

report

Couture

164

Giambattista Valli Since his debut at couture week three years ago, Valli has been gradually injecting pinches of playfulness onto the stage. This summer he offers an unapologetically young, blasĂŠ approach with thigh-high princess dresses, undone cuts and a luxurious yet dishevelled vibe. Magic remains in the adornment however, with his characteristic jewels and floras flooding his designs.

Couture

In tune with the message sent from his spring/summer RTW collection, Raf Simons continues to play with Dior’s house codes. He acknowledges them, honours them, puts his own language to them - and makes no apologies for doing so. Laden with movement, spirit and the promise of even greater things to come, this is a collection for today’s woman - she’s bold, beautiful and marches to the beat of her own drum.

report

Christian Dior

165

report

Couture

166

Alexis Mabille These are dresses for women in tune with their own egos, not shy to show them to the world. Silhouettes are generous and speak of a time when couture looked no further than the dress. Softened by the namesake Mabille embellishment, the designer gifted his garden - more often abundant in flowers - with white, virginal butterflies, a delicate distinction in an otherwise audacious collection.

Couture

Whether in couture or RTW, Saab is the go-to guy for stunning gowns that want for nothing more than to please the discerning girls who choose to wear them. In a season where trainers made their debut, Saab quite rightly stayed true to them. We saw lace and sheers by the mileage, enough diamonds and flowers to woo even the blackest of hearts and a colour palette of soft sugar pinks and powder blues, deserved of the most angelic of girls.

report

Elie Saab

167

report

Couture

168

Valentino In couture a collective ‘ahhh’ is inevitable at any Valentino show as show stopping sheers, angelic silhouettes, grand embellishments and regal prints grace the runway. The timeless spirit of the opera inspired designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Picciolo this season with homages to all the greats from Puccini and Giuseppe Verdi to Bizet. A sweet symphony of style that few can deny was anything short of a masterpiece.

Couture

He often looks to the world of art to draw inspiration for his collections. This time around the Syrian couturier found his muse in Ophelia from Shakespeare’s Hamlet. His heavy-weighted gowns depicted a range of emotions in a mimetic response to the painting

by John Everett Millais of Ophelia drowning in a river. It was a promising blend of textiles and premeditated layering in light hues.

report

Rami Al Ali

169

report

Couture

170

maison martin Margiela Organdy veils with embroidered eyeholes engulfed their faces. The masks evoked both beauty and horror on the runway. It was less Parisian couture and more shock value fashion, but artisanal. Clothes were draped in beads, chains, keys and crystals. Plain white tees were given a scrapbook effect with old Mariano Fortuny fabric. This fusion of old and raw materials offered an unexpected narrative-led collection.

Couture

Flowers were one thing Zuhair Murad’s show was not short of. From the garden in full, colourful, bloom, they formed the runway’s backdrop to the floral cut lace and the golden fauna belts or the 25,000 plus flowers used to create this season’s wedding dress. If you’re a woman who is still wooed by a bouquet of Mother Nature’s best, this was heaven. For everyone else, it was a passionate, if not extreme, plethora of picturesque gowns.

report

Zuhair Murad

171

report

Couture

172

Stephane Rolland Last year saw the introduction of Stephane’s main line collection; pieces that carried the same exceptional codes instilled in the designer’s couture collections but in RTW versions – flamboyant, rigorous and show-stopping.

Unsurprisingly, in what feels like an attempt to out-do himself, spring/summer couture is one step up from anything we’ve witnessed from the designer before. Bold and brilliant.

Couture

Hot on this season’s pursuit to bring a collective coolness to couture, Vauthier opted for a sporty (and showy) collection inspired by surfers. Vibrant colours, ruffle detailing which mimicked the movement of water, and hot pants and body suits all good enough for riding waves and swimming out into the big blue. A surfer’s paradise - for the stylish ones that is.

report

Alexandre Vauthier

173

report

Couture

174

Versace Where last season Donatella sent her girls down the runway in dresses and suits so skintight nothing was left to the imagination, this time she’s opted for plenty of draping, pleated layers and furs as cover-ups – helping add ‘sophisticated’ to the usual ‘strong and sexy’ adjectives used to describe the Versace woman.

In glossy gowns embellished to just the right effect and donning seductive hoods, this season’s woman is elusive and unchallenged.

Couture

Armani lured us all into a false sense of security. Gazar skirts and delicate jacquard jackets then a twist in the tale. Finely wrapped silk headscarves paired with jewel-encrusted hanging earrings. Navy blue full floor-skimming skirts and a free spirited feel – she was a gypsy woman, a deviant. The mixed palette of midnight blue and streaking silvers were ambient on the runway.

report

Armani Prive

175

report

Couture

176

Chanel Trainers? Girls running in gowns? And couture gowns at that? Karl Lagerfeld’s reference points were busy as usual; we saw old, we found new, we watched sportswomen and there was even talk of an alien nightclub in space. But with clear dedication to tweed, structured silhouettes, block colours and head-to-toe sheers, the collection appeared more directional than the multiple reference points should allow. All parts intelligent, artful and wearable.

.com

Unlock the Extraordinary

/ LouisFourteen

/ LouisFourteen 177

feature

Fashion

Photographed by Hedi Slimane

Inconspicuous

Couture His initial appointment was accompanied by rebellious expectations, yet Hedi Slimane has been steadily reviving Saint Laurent’s history as a couture leader.

Modernity and heritage are intermingling at the fashion house and with such an interesting juxtaposition of old regimes and new, MOJEH takes a peek behind the seams at Saint Laurent to see what’s really happening beneath the glitter and grunge.

By Gillian Brett

‘High fashion is finished,’ declared Yves Saint Laurent when he retired in 2002.

Saint Laurent’s exit was despondent - he felt there was nobody left to replace him as the high priest of haute couture. Passing away in June 2008, it’s unfortunate that Yves didn’t live to see Hedi Slimane fully honour his predecessor’s phenomenal mastery. A decade after Saint Laurent stepped down from his eponymous Parisian label, Slimane took the helm in a move that gripped the fashion world. Expecting a visceral, gamechanging act of insurrection from the formidable French designer, Hedi set the bar for a rebellion when he cleaved off Yves’ name to rebrand the label simply as ‘Saint Laurent’, uprooting the atelier from its native Paris to LA.

178

For his opening Spring 2013 collection, the catwalk was dark and ominous. Yet, what emerged from the obscurity wasn’t particularly revolutionary: Slimane’s paean to the 1970s haute-groupie was nostalgic and familiar, rather than agenda setting or radical. Broad-brimmed Janis Joplin– style hats, fringed suede, billowing chiffon sleeves, cropped jackets and skinny black trousers were beautiful, sure. But what was so special about them? His subsequent fall 2013 grunge collection gave us a knowing take on plaid shirts, baby-doll dresses, fishnets, slouchy sweaters, men’s overcoats and chunky bovver boots. And with Resort 2014 came girly shift dresses in glossy red sequins, a crystal jacket picked out in a baby-cat pattern, a one-shoulder minidress with a chain-link strap and of course, the enduring perfecto biker jacket.

With just a few dark strokes, we were expected to render the Saint Laurent woman reimagined. But that’s just it - despite the hype Slimane’s intentions were never to spray paint over Yves’ oeuvre, but rather to celebrate it through a modern perspective marrying L.A. rocker cool with breath-taking Parisian craft. ‘The questions of ‘What is beauty? What is luxury?’ You can challenge those ideas without it being a big issue,’ affirmed the designer. Slimane’s intention is to reassert the brand’s core values by reviving its elaborate couture techniques to create garments that are seemingly uncomplicated.

In the same way that Yves broke sexual taboos using the simplicity of Le Smoking, Slimane’s low-key yet technically complex collections affront the very extravagance of luxury fashion.

The fashion world was shocked to discover the little floral babydoll dress from the AW13 collection carries a big price tag of $68,000. The justification? Along with commissioning his own fabrics (Slimane

179

feature

Fashion

180

feature

Fashion

feature

Fashion Photographed by Hedi Slimane

thinks most material is cheap, generic and doesn’t sit right) harking back to the specialty weaves of the sixties and seventies, his team laboured for hours over the intricate details, employing couture skills to hand make the dress. A further 40 percent of the collection was completely handmade in the old atelier to the highest couture standards. In an unexpected twist, lineages of traditional techniques are interwoven beneath the laidback grunge. Likewise, the red bandanas worn around some models’ necks are made from a couture-quality cashmere and silk. Similarly, at his recent men’s show, an apparently straightforward black jacket was actually made from a blackon-black leopard-print silk: an allusion to one of Yves Saint Laurent’s old patterns.

With one foot firmly rooted in the art world, Slimane approaches style in its purest form: not as a thing to fill department stores, but as an original art, a process of experimentation with colour and materials.

In response, sales are superb. Barney’s New York reported a 60 per cent sell-through on Slimane’s first spring collection and the overall retail increase is reported to be 40 per cent. The stalwart Saint Laurent customer is responding to Slimane’s contemporary couture, and their daughters are joining them as these pieces appeal to a younger, yet equally as discerning customer too.

What’s frequently forgotten is that Slimane knows the house of Saint Laurent inside out. It was as a young art history graduate that he started helping friends on fashion shows and eventually came to the attention of Pierre Bergé, Yves Saint Laurent’s long-

term partner, who hired him in 1996 to join the YSL menswear team. He was named the house’s chief menswear designer in under a year. ‘Yves had great admiration for Hedi,’ Bergé once said. ‘In the fashion world, where frivolity is a must, it’s the opposite with Hedi—seriousness, integrity, honesty, and style.’ Thus, Slimane’s first act in removing the Yves from the brand wasn’t an ego-trip, it was in homage to Saint Laurent’s Rive Gauche roots; the revolutionary ready-towear boutique the couturier opened in 1966 where the name ‘Yves’ didn’t appear.

And perhaps only the true fashion geeks are aware that Saint Laurent, like Slimane, was preternaturally attuned to street style and the underground subcultures of his era. So, for a brand that was founded as an haute couture house and five years later revolutionised the fashion industry with the first ready-to-wear line, it is consistent with Yves’s ideologies that Slimane is questioning the nature of luxury.

In the same way that he street casts LA musicians to walk in his shows because they know how to move on stage, Slimane is colliding insouciant street fashion with the painstaking techniques of couture to elevate Saint Laurent beyond ready-towear. He has taken his devotion to detail into the stores too, redesigning the Saint Laurent retail spaces with monochrome marble and chrome. And as well as styling the shows, Slimane designs the sets, and shoots the ad campaigns that follow. Along with being one of the most committed, Hedi Slimane undeniably reigns as the coolest courtier in fashion history.

181

In Focus

Fashion

Isabella Blow:

Fashion Galore!

Her hats were more than mere accessories, they were part of her.

Isabella Blow, the late style muse, left her biography behind. It’s a story told through her vast collection of hats, the depiction of a complex, talented and super smart woman, a woman who believed the moodaltering effect of hats was always better than antidepressants. As the Isabella Blow: Fashion Galore! exhibition at Somerset House in London draws to a close, we speak to the curators Alastair O’Neill and Shonagh Marshall about the woman who exuded true originality.

Shocking pink sheer burka with printed teddy bear detail, tulle. Worn to Christian Dior, Haute Couture S/S 2003, Paris, January 2003.

Model: Alexia Wight. © Nick Knight

Undercover by Jun Takahashi, S/S 2003.

182

In Focus

Fashion Peter MacDiarmid/Getty for Somerset House

Why is the exhibition relevant now?

Alastair O’Neill: This is the first time that Isabella’s wardrobe has been shown since her untimely death. As one woman’s wardrobe, it remains an impressive collection and a fascinating record of her relationships with the designers she promoted. Wardrobes of this magnitude and range are rare, and had Daphne Guinness not saved it from being dispersed at auction, the exhibition would have remained an unlikely proposition. To many, Isabella Blow is imagined as ‘that woman who wore hats’, but she stood for much more than this. In an age where standing out through your appearance has never been more valued, it remains important to demonstrate how an attention to surface only works with an appreciation of substance.

What is the lasting importance of Isabella’s contribution to the fashion industry?

Alistair O’Neill: Isabella was the first patron of contemporary British fashion. Not only did she financially support her protégées, she also promoted them in the fashion pages she styled and in the outfits she wore. Although a range of support schemes now exist for graduates seeking a career in fashion, Isabella strove for her designers at a time when these initiatives were not yet in place.

Incredibly, she still managed to carve out an international agenda for designers such as Philip Treacy and Alexander McQueen, with reputations that are still very much in place.

What would you say is her most memorable piece in the exhibition?

Shonagh Marshall: Isabella Blow was so celebrated for her style, and as her profile as a fashion editor and stylist rose, so did her profile in the public eye. When friends or colleagues reminisce about Isabella they nearly always relate each anecdote to a piece of clothing. In that sense, it is very difficult to pick a particular piece that is most memorable, because it seems to be so personal. For me personally, I would say the most memorable piece within the exhibition is the Alexander McQueen for Givenchy Couture, AW 1997, cropped floral embroidered kimono with stand-up feather collar. Within our research we were lucky enough to be given access to film footage taken by illustrator Hilary Knight on a trip to London to visit Isabella. Within the video she tries on pieces from her collection and discusses what each garment means to her,and that kimono featured. To bring each piece of clothing to life through the exhibition, contextualizing each object, was such a departure from archiving the collection – and one I have welcomed.

There is much more to Isabella’s story than hats. It is one of limitations and the power of fashion, a life marred by depression and unhappiness, leading to her eventual suicide in 2007. We take off our hat to the woman who was so instrumental in bringing back Britain as a creative source of power in the 1990s. But we lament that, like in all great stories, her ending was one of great sadness.

183

Exclusive

Mojeh

The Maker and the muse In celebration of our third birthday, Stylebop.com invited us on a tour of LA to meet the designers behind their new and exclusive red carpet capsule collection. From Preen’s easy-breezy cocktail dress to David Koma’s jewel toned floor-sweeping maxi, the designers and their muses shows us how to dress to impress and party in style.

Photographed by Kristen Moolman

L

ike Isabel Marant and H&M, Kate Moss and Topshop, Alexander McQueen and Damien Hirst, often when two come together the result is one of a dynamic duo. Collaborations within the world of fashion are now more prevalent than ever, and to collaborate is a sure sign of designer status. Thus, Stylebop.com has partnered with the prestigious British Fashion Council, British Academy of Film & Television Arts, and established and emerging British designers, showcasing a capsule collection to celebrate British design in honour of the 22nd Annual Britannia Awards in Los Angeles. The collection was developed by leading designers Mary Katrantzou, Matthew Williamson, Emilia Wickstead, Preen, Roksanda Ilincic, David Koma, Osman and Marios Schwab.

MOJEH picked the cream of the crop to shoot in LA with their prospective muses.

Against the backdrop of shimmering sunshine, blossoming botantics and the colour faceted city that is LA, we celebrated in style with Mary, Emilia, David, Osman, Thea and Justin.

184

Exclusive

Mojeh

Mary Katrantzou Mary Katrantzou has already made a well-respected name for herself thanks to her paradisiacal prints and kaleidoscopic creations, worn by multiple celebrities the world over. As a former Central Saint Martins student, London is where she first captivated the fashion arena and this captivation is yet to cease. Her design process for the capsule collection is very female-focused, ‘the piece was inspired by the spring/summer collection, based on the different archetypes of women. We picked one of the prints, a floral motif, but we enlarged it. It’s on one of our shapes, which is very chic and very elegant because it has all the intricacies of the lace, and the beading and the floral. It’s below the knee and it’s just really elegant and really easy as a dress.’ We couldn’t agree more.

Surrounded by the Amazonian-style greenery of an urban jungle, the floral motif dress is the perfect accompaniment.

185

Exclusive

Mojeh

Osman Elegant minimalism is something of a signature staple for Osman. It appears to be hereditary - his mother ran a couture dress making business in Birmingham, and from there, his love of all things fashion blossomed. After showcasing his first collection at London Fashion Week in 2007, he’s been nominated for countless awards. From grunge-loving actress Kristen Stewart to Beyonce gracing the red carpet in his designs, he’s riding the wave of success. The greatest quality to Osman’s designs is his grasp of a modern aesthetic; ‘I wanted to create something that looks really modern. But it’s also quite reminiscent of Charles James, a little bit Grace Kelly with an attitude, the hem offering just that little bit of flash. I think it’s quite fresh really, and a bit Technicolor.’ And a little bit of Grace Kelly with an attitude was exactly what David brought to the streets of LA, in a pair of androgynous brogues. It was fresh and fun.

186

Exclusive

Mojeh

Emilia Wickstead What it would be to be a Wickstead Woman. Her designs are impeccably conservative and elegant from every angle. Born in New Zealand and raised in Milan, she learned her skills from the hands of her mother who ran a bespoke dressmaking service and we’re thankful she did. Emilia told us where she found inspiration for her blushing pink dress, ‘the piece that I created for Stylebop.com has come from this [Mississippi Blues] collection and so it’s got an element of that real Southern Belle feeling.’ But there’s a modern twist to it, an Emilia Wickstead twist. Also, there’s the embellishment of the pearls. Showing that little bit of leg and that little bit of foot, it’s again playing on what you could do back in the day and how much skin you could show. ‘I chose a very naked, blush-like colour. It’s a really beautiful piece!’

Set against the backdrop of a white washed LA mansion, the stunning opulence of the dress is fully captured.

187

Exclusive

Mojeh

Preen A power couple without halves, since meeting at the tender age of eighteen, Justin and Thea have been inseparable since. After setting up shop on London’s Portobello Road during the nineties and welcoming Cher as their first customer, their success has never faltered, and yet they’ve never reached the heady heights of fame. But maybe, better for it.

Their togetherness has transcended into their designs, a unisex appeal that is avid within their creative experimentation. ‘It is a jacquard organza layered dress on a silk bonded crepe. We have taken the neckline from our spring/summer collection and incorporated our bestselling full front pencil skirt. The dress was inspired by the feeling of being ‘light as air’ with a cloud formation and jet stream inspired jacquard.’ MOJEH first noticed Justin and Thea a few years back and we’ve been captivated ever since. Their artistic, friendly and fun spirit was portrayed through the familiar home-style setting, and eye-catching print dresses. There’s never a dull moment with these two.

188

Exclusive

Mojeh

David Koma His designs are instantly recognisable from their sculpted, super-feminine silhouettes and body-skimming materials. If they’re good enough for Beyonce’s Mrs. Carter World Tour then we’re interested. The Georgian born, London based designer has recently been appointed as Mugler’s artistic director, succeeding Nicola Formicetti. He’ll be debuting his first collection for Resort 2015 – order books at the ready. Towering over the LA skyline, the cascading rich cornflower blue dress for the capsule collection could easily have been mistaken for a skyscraper and he has captured the meaning of long and lean to its fullest volume.

With a hint of sportswear, the dress is streamlined to the female silhouette, caged by white lines wrapped around the waist. Koma likes to design for the woman who commands the attention of an entire room - or in our case the paved streets of LA - and we love him for it.

189

BanquET

Fashion

1

2

Art Of Being With Art Dubai commencing this month, a day-to-night style of dressing is highly desirable. Keep to a sophisticated palette of ethereal green and dusty pink to ooze understated elegance. A boucle suit from Giambattista Valli and floral-inspired accessories from Dior is the perfect evening ensemble for the art world.

4

3 5

1. MARNI | 2. BURBERRY PRORSUM | 3. ERMANNO SCERVINO | 4. DOLCE & GABBANA | 5. Graff | 6. GIAMBATTISA VALLI @matchesfashion.com

190

BanquET

Fashion

8

9

6

10

7

11

12

7. GIAMBATTISTA VALLI @matchesfashion.com | 8. CAROLINA HERRERA | 9. CARVEN @net-a-porter.com | 10. STELLA MCCARTNEY @matchesfashion.com | 11. BVGARI | 12. DIOR

191

BanquET

Fashion

1

2

It Takes Two Monochrome will always be a sartorial pleaser for the masses, but this season it’s taken on a modern mood. Those sixties vibrations are long gone, and playful prints a la Balenciaga blossom. Adorn yourself in Faberge pearly whites and faceted diamonds to add an element of understated glamour for any occasion.

3

4

5

1. FABERGE | 2. ERDEM | 3. MARNI | 4. MICHAEL KORS | 5. ROGER DUBUIS | 6. DOLCE & GABBANA @matchesfashion.com

192

BanquET

Fashion

8

6

7

10

9

11

7. BALENCIAGA @matchesfashion.com | 8. THE ROW @matchesfashion.com | 9. VALENTINO @matchesfashion.com | 10. CAROLINA HERRERA | 11. CHANEL

193

BanquET

Fashion

1

3

2

Colour Me In Throughout every fashion season it’s consistently apparent that one thing will always be a firm favourite of the fashion elite on the FROW: black. Pair it with boldly bright art-inspired accessories from Chanel, Alexander McQueen or Bulgari.

Dare to go back to black…with colour.

5

4 6

1. ALEXANDRE REZA | 2. MATTHEW WILLIAMSON | 3. BALENCIAGA | 4. FENDI | 5. CHANEL | 6. VICTORIA BECKHAM | 7. VICTORIA BECKHAM @net-a-porter.com

194

BanquET

Fashion 8

7 10

9

13

11

12

8. ROKSANDA ILINCIC @matchesfashion.com | 9. DOLCE & GABBANA | 10. THE ROW @net-a-porter.com | 11. PRADA | 12. CHRISTIE MORRIS | 13. ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

195

BanquET

Fashion

1

2

Cocktail Hour As the year begins to steam ahead with art festivals, fashion season and the highly anticipated Academy Awards, cocktail attire is a necessity. Go against the grain and mix gold and silver metallics together. Opt for a fine tulle cream dress from Lanvin, finished with jewel-dusted Ermanno Scervino heels.

3

4

5

1. PASPALEY | 2. GIAMBATTISTA VALLI HAUTE COUTURE | 3. VERSACE | 4. DIOR | 5. CHAUMET | 6. ROKSANDA ILINCIC @stylebop.com

196

BanquET

Fashion

7

6

10

8

9

11

12

7. VALENTINO @stylebop.com | 8. DOLCE & GABANNA | 9. ERMANNO SCERVINO | 10. LANVIN @net-a-porter.com | 11. MARNI | 12. DIOR

197

Point

Talking

The New Frow In an age of digital connectivity MOJEH explores how social media and the Internet are becoming the new front rows of fashion and why technology is lifting the curtain on the catwalk for all.

198

Point

Talking

I

t’s hard to believe it’s just a few years since the live streaming of fashion shows took off, affording the whole world a front show seat. Hark back to 2009 and it was the legendary Lee McQueen who opened up the usually private confines of the runway to a global audience. No ticket required, just a computer.

It revolutionised the way in which we view fashion, both figuratively and literally - from industry-only event to easy-access entertainment for all.

When the fickle fash pack followed suit and by next season live streams were as hot as crochet (oh 2010), the pundits of yesteryear proclaimed it the end of the fashion press. After all, with the curtain of exclusivity lifted from the catwalk, why would we need commentators? In the world of the Blogosphere everyone’s a critic.

Fast forward four years and live streams are part and parcel of the fashion experience. We’ve also never been so social. Well, virtually. We Pin, we Instagram, we Tweet and seemingly every atom of the known universe has its own Facebook page and - potentially - blog. It’s no longer a novelty or cyber fad, we live our lives in digital.

Sharon N. Hughes is an Online Marketing maven and Fashion Marketing Educator for London College of Fashion’s short courses in the Middle East. For her the transition of fashion from solely material to the world of online has been a game-changer. ‘One could say that the power to surprise has been taken away from the media and they too must get creative in the way they are presenting catwalk and trend reports. The blogger who decided New York Fashion Week is too exhausting and expensive or London Fashion Week is too far to travel, can have the same report yet tap into a new and sometimes much larger audience without being formally invited to a single show.’

It has created an interesting dialogue between the previously lofty labels – lovely yes, but distant, even aloof - and the people on the street. Or more accurately the computer pathway. They’ve had to make themselves more accessible and more relatable. Whereas before they were the glamorous woman you aspired to be, now they’re your chum and all too eager to welcome you into their world if you don’t mind dropping the occasional like and ‘sharing’ once in a while of course. ‘Years ago luxury brands tried to block bloggers from fashion show front rows, but that got them nothing but bad press. So when you can’t beat them join them! Now we see blogger-brand partnerships everywhere,’ explains Hughes.

These days fashion is all about involvement, or to use the social media cliché, ‘engagement’. Last year labels like Oscar de la Renta and J. Crew chose to preview campaigns and collections on social media before they’d hit the billboards or the

199

Point

Talking

200

runway. It shows just how far we’ve come and how crucial our relationship with our iPhone’s, our Blackberrys, our iPads and our MacBooks is in the reactionary world of style. ‘Just a few years ago fashion and social media were fair-weather friends. Fashion - especially luxury fashion - thought this new wave called social media was only a fast trend but Facebook, Twitter, blogs and YouTube proved them wrong,’ says Hughes. ‘Polyvore, Pinterest and Instagram only added icing on the cake with successful campaigns from Rebecca Minkoff, Louis Vuitton, Desiqual, Jimmy Choo, Burberry, Net-a-Porter and so many more. Where heritage brands took a back seat to this new form of marketing, emerging brands like Rachel Roy and retailers (such as ASOS) took to it by storm. The fashion industry has forever changed the way we view and use social and digital media.’

In many ways this might all sound a bit old hat. So people use Facebook. A lot.

Who cares? But as the cultural change reaches terminal velocity, talk is rife that the very conventions of how we interact with the fashion industry are set to change.

Just a few months ago Diane Von Furstenberg, in her role as president of the CFDA, sparked some debate when she casually quipped that Fashion Weeks could very well be an entirely digital affair within the next few years – with designers opting to show via computer versus catwalk.

Quelle surprise! No more street style? No more Lincoln Centre and Somerset

Point

Talking

House? No more PRs with a guestlist, a pen and a look that says ‘I could snap at any second’? In some ways it seems a natural progression as we slide inexorably into a more cyber future. No more showing up, just logging on.

‘I predict more virtual shows such as Marc Jacobs’ 360 °Spring Summer 2011 Facebook campaign and Burberry’s 4D spectacular in 2012,’ says Hughes. And when it comes to monopolizing social media - ‘No matter what, fashion week is still one of the largest marketing expenses for a brand or retailer and finding new avenues to support the brand brings more awareness, recognition and support than a room full of PRs, journalists and celebrities. A social media savvy fashionista has leverage far beyond fashion week walls.’

It does make us wonder what it all means for the future of fashion. If the virtual sphere is now the sphere of influence, perhaps the world of the runway is soon to be obsolete. But therein lies the crux. To many the seeming openness and inclusiveness of the industry these days has democratized fashion. In reality though, it’s still built on a hierarchy, on a platform of aspiration and on a Them and Us attitude. In an age when anyone can pull up a chair and watch in awe as Marc Jacobs takes his final bow at Louis Vuitton or Karl Lagerfeld puts on a show at Chanel, the kudos of those real front row seats – the ones made from plastic and metal – is heightened. When anyone can delve into the Instagram world of, say, Céline or keep up with the Twitter exploits of Saint Laurent, when they can blog about their favourite Mulberry or Mary Katrantzou or Versace, the literal takes on a whole new value.

For all of the talk about how online is revolutionising how we engage with fashion labels, and there’s no doubt it is revolutionising it, it’s also serving to provide a greater sense of exclusivity to what it’s all about - the tangible products. The real shows.

The internet is undeniably offering up a platform for exposure and interaction like never before but it’s also creating a window into a world that can still be as equally far removed for many as before. While live streams are bringing instant access and social media is creating two-way communication, it’s still inherently necessary for the labels we love to maintain their sense of allure and draw a line between the land of luxury and that of the masses. Peering through a computer screen at the glitterati from thousands of miles away, could there be a more ostentatious way to say ‘you can’t sit with us’? On the bright side, even if there is still a sense of pecking order when it comes to the showboating spectacle that is style - whether front row, second row or just lounging at your desk at home - at least everyone has a seat.

201

Highlight

Mojeh

With an air of

Zadig & Voltaire MOJEH meets Cecilia Bonstrom, the Swedish born beauty who moved from model to artistic director and now heads up Zadig & Voltaire. An emblem of the modern woman, she designs laissez-fair pieces and leads with a new off-beat approach to style.

‘The Zadig woman is one who is active and wants to be well dressed without being over dressed. We concentrate on the true basics, always in very soft but chic materials. It’s how you mix it all together that makes it completely different,’ said Bonstrom when we met her in the Zadig & Voltaire studios. ‘When I design I always keep in mind girls like Charlotte Gainsbourg and Lou Doillon, so even when I’m working on a dress I want it to be cool and never overly dressy or feminine.’

The former model joined the brand in 2003 and was appointed artistic director just three

202

short years later. Now she sits at the forefront of a new wave of designers dominating the world of chic, stylish and affordable luxury.

Creatives like Cecilia understand that even the world’s wealthiest women like to play fashion mavericks at times. She lists the likes of Vanessa Paradis and Kate Moss as clients and looks toward items that add a distinct edge to any high-end outfit. ‘My vision with Zadig &Voltaire is to propose clothes that are not just about fashion, but more a way of living,’ she says. And if anyone knows what today’s woman wants it’s Cecilia - she is her woman, her brand, her designs. Through her dusky blonde, tousled hair, off-duty model style and enviably ‘chic’ attitude, she embodies the women she caters for. ‘It is through modeling that I discovered fashion and became interested in the way clothes can sublimate women. One day I discovered Zadig & Voltaire and I immediately saw a difference from other brands; the modernity, the simplicity, the colours, the textures,’ she says.

On the day we meet, this ideal is as true as ever, as the designer stands next to her campaign girl for the season, Freja Beha. Cecilia wears a chunky, slightly oversized cashmere knit

Highlight

Mojeh

with faded black jeans (slightly slack where they’ve become an extension of her) and Freja dons a sheer floral patterned shirt tucked into laidback leathers and a black felt hat fall from the summer collection. The two are effortlessly chic in their seriously cool Scandinavian approach, and both the model and the maker embody the new-age woman - the Zadig girl.

‘For my summer collection I imagined a whole wardrobe for this urban woman living in the city who wants to attack the heat and dress in a summery way with lightness, sexiness and modernity,’ Cecilia explains. ‘I wanted to play with the contrast of sheer, delicate materials such as lace and silk against the rawness of cracked leather and metallic studs.’ These are pieces to wear intermittently with your highend goods, a subsequent expression of your rebellious side.

Today the pair are also working on the new ‘Freja Beha Meets Zadig & Voltaire Collection,’ a line for which 40 percent of the profit is donated to Medecins Sans Frontieres, a charity providing medical assistance in countries where life and health is at threat. The laidback feel of the small capsule collection - which includes a denim jacket, leather bag and tees coveting the letter

‘My vision with Zadig &Voltaire is to propose clothes that are not just about fashion, but more a way of living.’

‘F’ – works to the same DNA as the spring and summer RTW lines. They’re comprised of loose silk shorts, men’s shaped shirts, metallic sandals, linen tanks and oversized knits. ‘The spring look is for a woman who is very sure of herself and knows where she is going. She is happy mixing the oppositions of masculine and feminine,’ says Cecilia. ‘The summer collection started when I saw an old album cover of Jim Morrison and later when I found a vintage lace top in a second hand London store. My subject is more relaxed during summer.’

That’s the point exactly. Cecilia caters for this ‘relaxed’ woman, someone who knows what she needs from an outfit and isn’t afraid to mix highend with affordable luxury. She knows that the final vision will still be something individual, slightly anarchist and most importantly, driven by quality and craftsmanship. In one fell swoop, the stuffiness that can at times be found in head to toe high-end disintegrates.

203

In Focus

Trend

Jill Stuart

204

In Focus

Trend

S D

K E

I E

N P

The midriff - it’s big for SS14.

We tell you how to navigate a minefield that has most of us gritting our teeth to bare it.

By Emma Bailey

It’s only natural. As the mercury begins to rise and the heat becomes too hot to handle, designers look to the age old mantra of ‘less is more’ for inspiration. For 2014 this means abs, proudly displayed whether perfectly defined or not. From the ever-present crop top to a subtle slither of skin, style points need only be collected by daring to bare. But it’s not all as it seems. With most of us less than content with the status of our stomachs we’ve delved deeper so you don’t have to, proudly presenting you with an array of options for battling the ever elusive A zone…girls, it’s time to get physical.

They say the triangle is the strongest shape we know and it seems designers have fallen for its geometric achievements this season. Perfect for those erring on the side of caution, a three-sided morsel of fabric cut from the midriff region will see you through this trend with feminine aplomb. For a hole with height, head to Thakoon, whereas Jill Stuart favoured triangles left, right and centre.

On the opposite side of the spectrum, we have a look destined for those with a life long membership to the gym. Baring it all, pair low slung trousers with a top that sits just below the bust and prepare those abs for an outing. Both Tibi and Peter Som thought black was best, a sophisticated twist on a tricky trend. And tricky it really can be. For many of us, any flesh on display is cause for a meltdown, but not wanting to miss out on the silhouette of the season we’ve discovered a sneaky way around this conundrum. Dabble in mystery and show just a suggestion of skin through a panel of gauze, like the girls at 3.1 Phillip Lim, or trick the eye with a pair of crop top covering dungarees like Vanessa Bruno. You’re on trend, without having to get on the treadmill. Finally, we have the obvious but the favoured - the MOJEH team’s go-to look for the summer. Sophisticated, and perfect for those abs that aren’t quite yet ready for an outing, bare a tiny slither of flesh just above the belly button and pair with a voluminous bottom for balance. Alexander Wang was on fine form with this one, making him your man for ultimate ab-spiration.

205

Feature

Fashion

SAVAGE

BEAUTY

‘I wanted the collection to be very Dior – I want to keep all of the ingredients. But I wanted to change the idea of nature itself,’ Raf Simons revealed after his SS14 runway show in Paris. In almost three years at the French fashion house, the Belgian designer has continually merged the classic Dior woman with his own ambiguous concepts of beauty. The result is eloquent and at times obscure, but never short of brilliant. As this summer’s Dior specimen implodes into an enigmatic juxtaposition of beauty and savagery, we chart her evolution, playing with the idea of nature and asking, where will her journey take her next?

All images photographed by Sophie Carre

206

Feature

Fashion

D

ior’s original story, perhaps surprisingly for some, was actually one of nature where exquisite gardens were used as emblems of Christian Dior’s women - poetic, promising and infinite in opportunity through their boundless beauty. To change this would be a dangerous risk, damaging the DNA of the Dior woman, surely?

‘This collection is the idea of twisting, turning and pushing Dior, where the lyrically romantic becomes dangerous; a beautiful rose garden becomes poisonous,’ Simons said of the SS14 collection. ‘So much around Dior is about nature and there is the idea that you can’t change that. But I wanted to change the very nature of things; to show that fashion exists as a place of possibility and change.’ This is nothing new for the artistic director, who since his appointment in 2012 has led the classically beautiful into new-fangled realms. His first ever Dior woman was unleashed through a commanding winter couture collection championing disciplined cuts and a heady colour palette. The message was clear; Dior was no longer willing to settle for pretty without the Powerful. The original house codes were still relevant - colour, volume and flora to name a few - but in order to propel his woman forward, Simons’ stripped back. ‘If we don’t adapt to what women in society are now about, couture might disappear,’ he later disclosed.

Simons was active in the early stages of fashion resurgence. Similar to Hedi Slimane’s vision for the then YSL (he took over the house and quickly rebranded it Saint Laurent in homage to its Rive Gauche period), the designer was fiercely grabbing hold of the Dior glory days.

Instead of imitating, the two were ardently infusing them with a type of realism more relevant for the 21st century. And so, laced in sharp silhouettes, controlled embellishment and potent red lips, Simons’ Dior woman was received with spectacular acclaim. She was fast, forceful and she was free.

207

Feature

Fashion

Free. A word that would become tightly linked to Simons’ time at the house. No longer confined within the majestic gardens where she stood, precious, ornate but static amongst the rest of the floras, her roots were cut and her beauty blasted into the world. Successful collections followed, staying close to that same formula. SS13 embraced minimalism; points of interest were no longer found in fanciful girly silhouettes and tones, but in solid splashes of incandescent colour and a play on lengths. The same functionality was championed throughout the year but summer’s couture collection, which saw Simons’ retreat to his parent’s garden for inspiration in much the same way that Christian Dior would seek incentive in his own, attracted the most attention.

Vast amounts of flowers embellished the runway-turned-orchard and the designs themselves were starkly forward thinking with trouser suits joining the free-flowing dresses. Keeping the once overpowering floras and flowerbeds in mind, he mercilessly chops away at the unnecessary clutter until only the strongest survive – not so different from his Dior lady. Euphoric in her new aesthetic, every type of woman from young Hollywood starlets and society girls to the business world’s toughest players, embraced the flower power aesthetic, building their wardrobes (and their lifestyles) around the collections.

208

Feature

Fashion

At the turn of the next couture season, Simons widened his vision to envelope a world with no boundaries – inspirations from Africa, America, Japan, and Europe were moulded into one glorious collection where freedom was first and foremost. National identity was left obscured and as a result the only distinction each girl had from the next was that of her own strength and sovereignty, unlocked and enlightened for exploration.

But there are two sides to every story and the current Dior journey has led to an artificial, darker biosphere. ‘I wanted a sense this season of a particular group of women, a distinct new tribe, sophisticated and savage at the same time,’ said Simons. ‘I wanted to feel that you wouldn’t know quite where these women were coming from and where they were going to.’ Women entered the runway plastered in badges and insignia. Their classic bar jackets had been tampered with, cut, dissected and twisted, and prints turned from pretty to poisonous in one fell swoop. But she was unequivocally magnificent. Her darker side, which resided in an artificial world she called home, made her only the more powerful and potent.

Simon’s exploration into this more sinister sense of panache should come as no surprise, we can conclude. His cryptically conceptual mind was bound to outrun Dior at some point. It did so at Jil Sander with collections that lay way ahead of their time, and again at his own eponymous menswear label where he assiduously challenges real against the unreal, time after time.

As the Dior woman enters an experimental world of artificiality this season, one that sees no limits or self-constraint, the burning question is, where will we find her come winter?

209

Joie de Vivre Photographed by Ellen von Unwerth Styled by Guillaume Boulez

210

Bodysuit, headdress and jewels: JEAN PAUL GAULTIER | Tights, FALKE | Extra jewels: PIERRE ANNEZ DE TABOADA and FOREVER GLAM

211

Dress, VALENTINO | Headdress, MURMURE by SPIRIT | Tights, FALKE | Shoes, RENE CAOVILLA | Earrings, HELENE ZUBELDIA

212

Left: Dress, CHANEL | Hat, SANDRINE BOURG | Tights, FALKE | Shoes, THOMAS LIEUVIN Right: Dress, CHANEL | Hat, SANDRINE BOURG | Tights, FALKE | Shoes, RENE CAOVILLA

213

Left: Dress, ZUHAIR MURAD | Hat, SANDRINE BOURG PARIS | Gloves, AGNELLE | Tights, FALKE | Bag, INES FIGAREDO | Necklace, PIERRE ANNEZ DE TABOADA Right: Dress, VERSACE | Hat, SANDRINE BOURG PARIS | Tights, FALKE | Earrings, FOREVER GLAM

214

215

Left: Dress, STEPHANE ROLLAND | Hat, SANDRINE BOURG PARIS | Gloves, AGNELLE | Tights, FALKE | Bag, INES FIGAREDO Right: Dress, GIAMBATTISTA VALLI | Hat SANDRINE BOURG PARIS | Tights, FALKE | Gloves, AGNELLE | Bag, INES FIGAREDO

216

Dress, CHRISTOPHE GUILLARME | Hat, SANDRINE BOURG PARIS | Gloves, AGNELLE | Shoes, CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN | Jewels, PIERRE ANNEZ DE TABOADA

217

Left: Dress and belt, ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER | Hat, ANTHONY PET | Earrings, YAZBUKEY Right: Top, MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA | Pants, FIFI CHACHNIL | Hat, ANTHONY PETO | Tights, FALKE

218

Dress, coat and gloves, THIERRY MUGLER

219

Jumpsuit, CHRISTIAN DIOR | Headdress, PIERRE ANNEZ DE TABOADA | Tights, FALKE | Shoes, RENE CAOVILLA | Earrings, HELENE ZUBELDIA

220

Dress, VIKTOR&ROLF | Headdress, PIERRE ANNEZ DE TABOADA

221

222

Left: Dress, GEORGES HOBEIKA | Gloves, AGNELLE | Tights, FALKE | Shoes, WALTER STEIGER | Necklace, PIERRE ANNEZ DE TABOADA Right: Dress, RALPH AND RUSSO | Tights, FALKE | Shoes, CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN | Earrings, MAWI | Extra jewels in pocket, PIERRE ANNEZ DE TABOADA and FOREVER GLAM

223

Bodysuit, CHARLOTTE LICHA | Headdress, stylist’s own | Tights, FALKE | Necklace, FOREVER GLAM

224

Left: Bodysuit, YANINA | Vintage headdress, Stylist’s own | Tights, FALKE | Shoes, RENE CAOVILLA Right: Bodysuit, ZUHAIR MURHAD | Headdress, FOREVER GLAM | Tights, FALKE | Shoes, RENE CAOVILLA

225

226

Bodysuit, YANINA | Vintage headdress, Stylist’s own | Tights, FALKE | Shoes, RENE CAOVILLA | Fan, PIERRE ANNEZ DE TABOADA

227

228

Bodysuit, SCHIAPARELLI | Headdress, FOREVER GLAM | Gloves, AGNELLE | Tights, FALKE | Shoes, CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN | Jewels, PIERRE ANNEZ DE TABOADA | fans, PIERRE ANNEZ DE TABOADA

229

Left: Dress, by ELIE SAAB | Headdress, PIERRE ANNEZ DE TABOADA | Tights, FALKE | Shoes, RENE CAOVILLA Right: Dress, TONY WARD | Headdress, PIERRE ANNEZ DE TABOADA | Tights, Falke | Extra jewels, PIERRE ANNEZ DE TABOADA

230

Models: Eva Doll at Karin, Charlotte Di Calypso at Elite, Tarik Lakehal at Success, Alain Gossuin at Success and Andy Gilet at Success | Hair stylist: Vinz at B Agency using Leonor Greyl | Hair stylist’s assistant: Stephane Clavier at B Agency | Make-up artist: Regine Bedot at Marie France using MAC | Manicurist: Sophie A at Calliste | Photographer’s assistants: Stan Rey-Grange and Margaux Jouanneau | Stylist’s assistant: Remi Meunier and Julien Jacquemin | Digital operator: Jerome Vivet | Studio Ellen von Unwerth: Anne-Marei Heinrich | Casting and production: Backwall | Production: Louis Agency

Male one: Suit and shirt, VIKTOR&ROLF | Bow tie, LES DANDYS | Vintage cufflinks, Stylist’s own | Socks, FALKE | Shoes, ZILLI | Male two: Suit and shoes, DIOR HOMME | Shirt, ZILLI | Bow ties and cufflinks, LES DANDYS | Scarf, SAINT LAURENT | Socks, FALKE | Watch and glasses, model’s own | Male two: Suit, shirt and shoes, ZILLI | Bow tie and cufflinks | LES DANDYS | Socks, FALKE

231

Let There Be Light Photographed by Nicolas Valois Styled by Guillaume Boulez

232

Jacket with feathers and embroidered leggings, LOUIS VUITTON

233

Mink dress and Stephen Sprouse embroidered leggings, LOUIS VUITTON

234

Beaded dress, LOUIS VUITTON

235

Embroidered maxi dress and boots, LOUIS VUITTON

236

Sequined jacket and light denim jeans, LOUIS VUITTON

237

Embroidered cape with matching jeans and body suit, LOUIS VUITTON

238

Body suit, LOUIS VUITTON

239

Left to right: Jacket with feathers and embroidered leggings, Embroidered cape with matching jeans and body suit, Mink dress, ALL LOUIS VUITTON

240

Models: Lida Fox, Quirine Engel and Estella Brons at NEXT Models | Make-up artist: Topolino at CallistÊ Agency | Hair stylist: Bruno Silvani at Jed Root Agency | Photographer assistant: Arnaud Lebrazidec | Digital assistant: Manu Pestrinaux at Imagin production | Stylist assistant: Remi Meunier | Retouching: Imagin Paris | Photographer’s agency: Eric Hennebert | Production: Louis Agency

241

Jumpsuit, CITIZENS OF HUMANITY | Handbag, CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN | Shoes, CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN | Earrings, KIMBERLY MCDONALD | Ring (right), KIMBERLY MCDONALD | Ring (left), ARLETTE

242

the open road Photographed by Riccardo Vimercati Styled by Katharina Trappe

243

Black leather fringe jacket, CHEYANN BENEDICT | White tank top, VINCE | Jeans, GENETIC | Black leather belt, ISABEL MARANT | Leopard print shoes, SOPHIA WEBSTER | Earrings, KIMBERLY MCDONALD | Large silver cuff, ALEXIS BITTAR

244

Sweatshirt, RAGDOLL | Denim shorts, 7 FOR ALL MANKIND | Earrings, BEN-AMUN

BY ISAAC MANEVITZ | Ring, ARLETTE

245

Earrings, KIMBERLY MCDONALD

246

leather jacket with studs, Anine Bing | Jeans, Cheyann Benedict | Black tank top, James Perse | Earrings, Arlette | Ring (left), Kimberly McDonald | Ring (right), Arlette | Shoes, Saint Laurent

247

Jacket, CITIZENS OF HUMANITY | Black t-shirt, RAGDOLL | Earrings, rings and bracelets, ALL ALAN FAYE JEWELRY

248

249

Denim shirt, J. CREW | Jeans with studs, CITIZENS OF HUMANITY | Necklace, ARLETTE | Gold cuff and rings, KENNETH JAY LANE

250

Shoes, CAROLINNA ESPINOSA | Sunglasses, SHAUNS | Earrings, BEN-AMUN BY ISAAC MANEVITZ | Large gold ring, ARLETTE | Gold necklace, ARLETTE | Black t-shirt, THE ROW

251

Jacket and vest, Paige | White tank top, Vince | Black leather pants, Anine Bing | Necklace, Kenneth Jay Lane | Cuff, Arlette | Belt, ISABEL MARRANT | Helmet, RUBY

252

Model: Angelina Nawojczk at One Management | Hair stylist: Giovanni Giuliano at Atelier management | Make-up artist: Jeffrey Baum at Atelier management | Photographer’s assistant: Manolo Rodriguez | Digital technician: Phil Sanchez | Stylist’s assistant: Vincent Ciarlariello | Local producer: Yusuf Yagci | Production: Louis Agency | Special thanks to Deus Ex Machina Venice

253

Left: Printed muslin dress, CHANEL | Right: Printed satin top, skirt and bag, CHANEL

254

Splash of Street Photographed by Philip Riches Styled by Guillaume Boulez

255

256

Left: Black tweed dress, CHANEL | Right: Black dress, necklace and gloves, CHANEL

257

Left: Pink tweed dress, bag and bracelet, CHANEL | Right: Silk organza vest, yellow dress and ring, CHANEL

258

259

260

Left: Tweed dress, crepe jacket, and pearl necklace, CHANEL | Right: Tweed dress, jacket, necklace, and belt, CHANEL

261

Left: Tweed dress and cotton guipure top, CHANEL | Right: Tweed dress, top and ring, CHANEL

262

Models: Marie Meyer at VIVA, Yulia Terentieva at OUI Management | Hair stylist: Vincent De Moro | Makeup artist: Olivier Baille | Manicurist: Sarah Atallah | Lighting assistants: Lucas Haegeli and Bertrand Dussart | Digital assistant: Lucas Haegeli | Stylist assistant: Remi Meunier | Production: Louis Agency

263

Photographed by Silja Magg, Issue 7

Photographed by Simon Upton, Issue 1 Photographed by Lionel Koretzky, Issue 3

Photographed by Riccardo Tinelli, Issue 6

264

Photographed by Myro Wulff, Issue 17

Photographed by Riccardo Vimercati, Issue 10

Photographed by Sabine Villiard, Issue 12+1 Photographed by Simon Upton, Issue 1

Photographed by Tommy Clarke, Issue 4

265

Trends

Accessory

Fringe Benefits Say goodbye to the Gatsby-style tassel and hello to your inner bohemian this season, by carrying a fully fringed bag a la Celine and Valentino.

1. CELINE | 2. PROENZA SCHOULER | 3. VALENTINO | 4. GUCCI

1

2

3

266

4

Trends

Accessory 2

1

3

Game Changers Revisit your school sports day spirit and soar high in heels fit for an athlete.

1. EMILIO PUCCI | 2. DKNY | 3. KENZO | 4. DIOR

4

267

Trends

Accessory

Bag A Bucket Ditch your tired tote and pick up an adorned bucket bag with feathers, embellishment and more.

1. MICHAEL KORS | 2. CHLOE | 3. DIOR | 4. LOUIS VUITTON

1

2

3

268

4

Trends

Accessory 2

1

3

The Way Back The mule has made its way back. It’s summer’s must-have sandal.

1. STELLA MCCARTNEY | 2. CHLOE | 3. CELINE | 4. ALEXANDER WANG

4

269

Trends

Accessory

Monochrome Madness Black and white is a match made in sartorial heaven. Play with textures and graphics for a modern mood.

1. STELLA MCCARTNEY | 2. VICTORIA BECKHAM | 3. JIL SANDER | 4. KENZO

1

2

3

270

4

Trends

Accessory 2

1

3

Nomadic Trail Follow your fashion instincts and find inspiration from across the globe in tribal-inspired footwear.

1. EMILIO PUCCI | 2. CELINE | 3. DRIES VAN NOTEN | 4. MICHAEL KORS

4

271

Trends

Accessory

Micro Styling Good things come in small packages, so invest in teeny-tiny bags this season.

1. JIL SANDER | 2. CHLOE | 3. DOLCE & GABBANA | 4. SAINT LAURENT

1

2

3

272

4

Trends

Accessory 2

1

3

Light It Up Shine bright like a diamond with a metallic accessories that will light up your look.

1. JIL SANDER | 2. ROCHAS | 3. LANVIN | 4. ETRO

4

273

Trends

Accessory

Portrait Of An Artist Evoke a stroke of genius this season and carry your art on your arm.

1. EMPORIO ARMANI | 2. CHANEL | 3. PRADA | 4. KENZO

1

2

3

274

4

Trends

Accessory 2

1

3

Signature Bow Bow down to the decorative bow as it makes a contemporary comeback.

1. ROKSANDA ILINCIC | 2. BALENCIAGA | 3&4. LANVIN

4

275

Trends

Accessory

Warrior Princess Go for gold, gladiator-style, and wear your armour with pride like Dolce and Gabbana.

1.2. DOLCE & GABBANA | 3. ALEXANDER MCQUEEN | 4. BALMAIN

1

2

3

276

4

Trends

Accessory 2

1

3

In Full Bloom Pick a pretty petal or two, and place it on your shoe.

1. DRies Van Noten | 2. burberry | 3. dior | 4. sister by sibling

4

277

Exclusive

Mojeh

A Lick of Paint This season Karl Lagerfeld played designerturned-artist to create a Friezeworthy fashion show. Here we take an exclusive look at the accessories and sculptured pieces, lustworthy enough for any esteemed collector of art, fashion or haute couture...

Photographed by Benoit Peverell

W

alking into any Chanel show, whether for a couture collection, pre-fall, Metier d’Arts or in this case ready-to-wear, is a lot like lifting the lid on a ring-shaped gift box. You don’t quite know what’s going to be inside, but you’d be right in expecting something outstanding, novel and explosive. It may not be life altering in the same way that a ring would be, but nonetheless if you’re in the line of fashion you’d be foolish for thinking that it’s not going to alter, at the very least, the season ahead of you. For where Karl goes, the rest of us follow.

In past years we watched as the likes of Cara Delevingne, Arizona Muse and Joan Smalls circled a considerably sized world globe, walked down the aisles of a plane and rode bulls in Dallas Texas (just in case you havn’t heard about last November’s Metier d’Arts showcase). For SS14 however, Lagerfeld turned his back on theatrics and looked to the most traditional of creative processes: Art. It’s September in Paris and we walk into the Grand Palais, where Chanel’s usual venue has been transformed into a vast exhibition space – great white walls decorated

278

279

Exclusive

Mojeh

280

Exclusive

Mojeh

Exclusive

Mojeh

by 75 art pieces, each one designed by Lagerfeld. In both paintings and sculptures the Chanel emblems manifested, as the letter C, the number 5 or the camellia. And in the clothes we found classic Chanel with a twist of art, from colour splashes laden across light summer dresses to shirts constructed from primary coloured Pantone and tweed pieces that had been deconstructed, dishevelled and then put back together to far better acclaim than the original (such is the fiery genius of an artist).

It was the accessories, however, that truly got the artist within each of us inspired. Giant baubles sat firmly on necks and wrists, hung from dense, curling pieces of silver and comparable to small sculptures one would choose for a contemporary home. Then there were the bags. Rucksacks carried faded Cs and Chanel typography in personalised yellow, red and blues. These are bags built and worn by the cool artist kid who can transform personalities and style with one brush of paint, slung over a shoulder before it’s even had time to dry. Shiny, pocket-sized bags complete with typical chain detailing are sizeable enough to carry one pack of felts (or a lipstick and phone if you prefer). The pièce de résistance comes in the form of weighty perspex bracelets, transparent but decorated with solid strips of colour. Worn either singularly or stacked, like every other piece in Chanel’s spring/summer collection, they’re heady, exciting and achingly perfect.

There we have it, in 89 strokes of his metaphorical paintbrush and the number of looks to this collection, Lagerfeld squashed any counter arguments that fashion can’t be art. Here the question itself became irrelevant, null, futile. Fashion, quite simply, is art.

It is in this collection at least.

281

Exclusive

Mojeh

A Style

Contradiction Louis Vuitton has added two new bags to their already stellar line-up, but these are no ordinary leather plus zipper carries, instead they act as vessels to demonstrate the versatility of the modern girl. As showcased exclusively for MOJEH, Lola Kirke and Lina Esco, actresses and friends in real life, take on the opposing bags to suit their style for the day.

282

Exclusive

Mojeh

T

hey say opposites attract. The first signature shape comes in three sizes, in either Monogram canvas or Monogram Empreinte leather. Crafted in a palette of pastel hues for the girl who steers away from ostentatiousness. Inside: two open compartments for on-the-go easiness and one centre zippered section. Carry as a shoulder or handbag – perfect for the classically stylish woman who exudes a ladylike look with ease.

She boasts an insouciant attitude. The softly structured bowling bag is for her – in either a middy or mini size. She can carry both at any time of day. With Louis Vuitton’s iconic Monogram pattern embossed on soft calfskin over the fine-grain texture. The delicate print of the Monogram enhances the subtle pattern and softness of the leather. It is the etching of Louis Vuitton’s historic signature, a hallmark.

For this city girl: practicality reigns in the form of three ample, zippered compartments inside the bag. The ideal carrier for a day-to-night ensemble.

Two girls, with opposite styles. The modern versatility of the bags brings them together to become one. Two styles, one woman.

Lina Esco

Lola Kirke

283

Interview

Mojeh

A Piece of Me

Giovanna Furlanetto, President of luxury Italian house Furla, was born into a brand founded by her parents in the early 1900s. Sharing their same passions for innovation and quality of craftsmanship, today, along with her brothers, she continues to breathe new and fresh life into the accessory house, loved by fashion’s favourites Olivia Palermo and Natalia Vodianova. What makes a woman’s handbag so much a part of her? We meet with Giovanna to find out how Furla does it.

What defines a well-made bag?

A well-made handbag is one that conveys the right mix of creativity, wonder, pleasure and quality, hence becoming a woman’s most favourite and useful accessory. It should be suitable for all kinds of outfits and occasions, from business meetings in the morning to after-work dinners. My idea of perfection is also strictly bound to the highest level of expertise infused into the accessories we choose to wear. This means selecting the finest materials and transforming them into enduring, glamorous and versatile shapes, capable of expressing a unique blend of refined design, meticulous working, exclusive details and appealing colours.

How does a woman’s handbag reflect her?

I think that there’s a kind of intimate and secret relationship between a woman and her bag, as it is a detail of style that can make you feel very special and distinctive. Not just a mere accessory or fashion

284

symbol, it’s a way to gather and treasure a woman’s entire world. Her private belongings also reflects her personality, taste and the consciousness of what best matches her attitude and daily needs. My bag, for instance, reflects my love for art. I always use the same bag from the Giovanna Furlanetto for Furla line, customized by different artists.

It perfectly represents the company’s inspiring balance between style, art and product.

Do you remember your first Furla?

Furla handbags were actually born when my brothers and I entered the company and founded the brand. At the beginning of the 80s, one of the first pieces I used to wear was a sporty shoulder bag with technical nylon inserts; a very innovative and modern material at that time, mainly used for making lifebelts. This model clearly stated our desire to bring forward the company’s excellence in the leather segment thanks to a strong drive for creativity and experimentation.

Can you tell us about one of the house’s most adventurous pieces?

Since its debut in spring summer 2011, the Candy Bag turned into an instant success and soon became a best seller. When we decided to mould and shape the PVC material our aim was to give a funny, gummy and vibrant interpretation to rubber and the name Candy clearly evokes the sense of joy and deliciousness of the fruit candies. We succeed in creating a brilliant synthesis between the traditional form of the ‘Boston’ bag and the avant-garde use of the PVC material, delivering an authentic must-have accessory, ‘essential, popular & edgy’ at the same time.

Interview

Mojeh

Furla was founded by your parents in 1927. How do their ideas and notions still live on today?

Furla’s approach to design has always been centred on a balance between Italian artisan know-how and the brand’s intrinsic spirit of innovation. This duality totally captures the refined, yet multipurpose aesthetics that characterize all handbag and accessory collections, where the concepts of functionality and versatility required by modern living are always firmly bound to an everlasting ideal of elegance. The Made in Italy’s incomparable traditions, the company’s time-honoured product culture and the concept of timeless beauty are the driving values behind Furla’s aesthetics, from the year of the foundation up to the present day.

When you first took on a role at the company, what mindset did you enter with?

I started working in the company when I was very young. My father motivated and encouraged me to always go beyond and fly high, offering me the chance to work in the field and express my creativity. The challenge of the past is the same as the present: keeping in line with modern times while staying true to the company’s heritage and to the highest-level quality standards. Trying to constantly surprise the final consumer with something really new and engaging is a good challenge. As he used to repeat, ‘they are like vessels, and you have to fill them with contents”.

If you had to sum up Furla’s history in just a few lines, what would you say?

The brand’s history is marked by the many relevant milestones of its evolution throughout the decades: the company’s foundation in Bologna in 1927, the opening of its first store in 1955, the beginning of its worldwide growth in the 80s and the 90s when Furla landed in the US, and subsequently its arrival in Japan as the first Italian brand to explore that part of the world. Above all, the company’s international vocation keeps on being the driving force behind the last year’s most significant achievements, represented by the packed calendar of new store openings across all continents.

How has the role of the bag changed and evolved over the last 80 years?

Throughout the decades, Furla’s handbag collections have evolved together with the awareness of the crucial role that this accessory plays in a woman’s total look. Today, handbags are certainly a fashion statement, if not an obsession for many. But in some ways they also mirror the contemporary rhythm of a world that keeps on moving at a very fast pace. I am referring, for example, to the dynamic attitude of working women who look for comfortable and practical handbags, where they can hold their organizer, PC and cosmetic case at the same time, easily shifting from a business meeting in the morning to make-up refreshing for an evening dinner.

That is why Furla’s design approach is constantly focused on beauty and function, style and quality.

285

interview

Accessory

Rocking Her Way

To The Top Since being named Italian Vogue’s Design Talent in 2009, Amanda Assad Mounser’s luxurious fine jewellery designs have been adorning the necks of Rihanna, Miley Cyrus and Lady Gaga. Hailing from Texas, but residing in New York City, we speak to the young designer about her latest collection and more.

286

interview

Accessory

What was the starting point for your SS14 collection?

The Assad Mounser SS14 collection was born from an antique expedition for Hollywood Regency furniture, with its focus on bronze and chrome sculpture. The colour palette from this genre, as well as its luxurious fabrics and a heavy emphasis on resin and metallic materials, sets the tone for the season.

Who or what was the main inspiration behind your SS14 collection and why?

The collection’s overall feel lies in a juxtaposition of two very different worlds – Old Hollywood glamour with its classic black and white cinema imagery, and the hue soaked aesthetic of New School genre tattoo art. I liked the idea of clashing delicate elements that are very classically beautiful, against grittier inspiration points.

Do you have a creative process that you follow for every season?

I am always inspired by art and from there I try to pick two opposing ideas or inspirations and fuse them together into a new concept. Next it’s about defining a strong colour palette and choosing materials and elements I want to work with. Then the design process begins.

Describe the woman who wears your designs in three words.

Edgy, polished and glamorous.

What has been your career highlight so far?

Being named Italian Vogue’s New Talent in Design and seeing my necklace feature in the Style section of the New York Times.

Your collections are always influenced by 1970s glam rock. What is it that you love about that specific period of time?

It’s the rebellious spirit of the Gods of the glam rock genre and the period’s glittery, glamorous, carefree style.

You were born in Texas but moved to New York City in 2009. How does the city influence your work?

I think the most influential thing about New York is the art scene. The range of what you are able to see here, from fine art to downtown street art, is so diverse and accessible. It creates a strong emotional response for me and serves as a constant springboard of inspiration.

Describe yourself in three words.

Artistic, charming and modern.

If we came to New York City, where would you take us to and why?

To my favorite Mexican restaurant in Brooklyn called Alma. It’s located in Columbia Heights Waterway and overlooks the East River with full views of the Manhattan skyline. They also have the best jalapeño margaritas around.

Where is the place to visit in 2014?

Hong Kong, Australia and Morocco are all on my list.

What’s the best thing about New York Fashion Week?

The energy and the shows.

Does street style influence your designs at all?

I think street style is a good place to see new trends emerging and current trends being translated in new and interesting ways.

I try not to let what is happening in the present affect my designs though, because ultimately I am looking to create what hasn’t happened yet.

Describe to us your favourite way to wear your designs.

In layers and layers!

287

Desired

Most

Judith Leiber

In the Hands of an Artist Her bags have become recognisable objets d’art. From the Leiber classic - the watermelon - to crystal-covered animals, these timeless minaudières never fade too far from the fashion vernacular. Leiber’s spring/summer 14 collection has reinvented some familiar shapes, combining luxury with glamour, as always. The iconic butterfly has been updated in an electric iridescent blue and black colour palette. Finding inspiration from all things nautical - argyle jumpers, anchor insignias and pristine white beaches - an element of preppy style is prevalent. The high level of craftsmanship has evolved, and the brushing of metallic paint over snakeskin and the adornment of sliding locks add facets of practicality. These hand-cradling clutches continue to exude an all American tradition of sheer luxury and coveted couture. Minaudières were always aimed at one woman: The lady who lunches. Now their daughters are following suit. They’re opulent and whimsical, and a little abstract for the art lover. Although they never left, they are well and truly back. At the hands of an artist, Lieber delivers crystal clear collectables every time.

288

Desired

Most

Sophia Webster A Bug’s Life

Come on, let’s crawl to the Ugly Bug Ball - where there’s an insect sleepover, a sky lined with fluffy white clouds and a secret garden of fun-filled crickets clicking their crickety melodies. Welcome to the wonderful world of Sophia Webster. Inspired by Mika Ninagawa, she fuses the beautifully intricate and bright details of insects with dark and sombre colour elements for spring/summer 14, her third collection. Ninagawa is a Japanese artist who is illustrious for her super vibrant photographs of goldfish, flowers and landscapes. Her super cute designs scream to be worn by the girl who dreams of riding a gold encrusted carousel whilst nibbling on layers of pink candy floss in the land of Alice and her friends.

It’s a very British touch of let’s play dress-up - all play, but with elegance. Ranging from heels festooned in polka dots, to glitter laden block heels, to butterfly-engineered motifs on pumps, each pair make the perfect accompaniment for a quirky dress. Rainbow hues manifest as mandatory. It comes as no surprise, Sophia’s mentor is Nicholas Kirkwood, and his signature style of crazy colours and crazy patterns are evident in her creative process too.

Come let’s crawl with them to the ball. It’s a bug’s wonderful life after all, thanks to Sophia.

289

Desired

Most

balenciaga

Force Of Nature Balenciaga is a force of nature this season. With its exploration into the wild, a free spirit comes to life. Taking inspiration from the earth around him, Alexander Wang designs accessories for the woman who will herald a fresh and powerful step into the unknown come summer. This earthy sensuality is captured in the silver plated cuffs from this season’s collection. They’re beautiful and carefree; the ideal statement piece for the wandering woman. With their finely etched layered leaves engulfing the wrist, nature is doing all the talking. Entwined in a tall standing curve, Wang has reimagined a snake as the central embodiment of his bags, created in a blend of cream and black snakeskin. Sculpted in smooth black leather in a boldly structured shape, they are the perfect day-to-night carriers. It is obvious Wang is determined to etch the DNA of the house into every facet of his collections. With Wang’s acclaimed second collection for Balenciaga done, fashion has unleashed a spritely spirit for spring. Take a walk on the wild side and adorn yourself with the creatures of the natural world.

290

Desired

Most

Phioro

Jungle Fever She’s a wild beauty, a woman who can’t be tamed. She is never modest in her choices, but is always drawn towards the natural notes of the animal kingdom. Phioro captures this free spirit perfectly within its Liana Collection. Striking blue sapphires, topaz and beautifully faceted diamonds encircle the designs, and capturing the wildness of beauty was at the forefront for designer Clare Pardoe. ‘I was inspired by the Liana vines in the Amazonian rainforest which hang down and wrap around the trees that surround them. I selected the vivid blue of the topaz to represent futuristic qualities; it’s clean, youthful, spiritual and free,’ describes the designer.

‘A force to be reckoned with, our jewellery represents the strength and passion that its wearer possesses.’ A Dubai native, Pardoe specialises in the artistry of fine jewellery. All of Phioro’s strikingly sculptural pieces are made from precious metals and semi-precious stones, sourced from places close to the region and then brought to life by a craftsman in Italy. Whether you choose from the mainline collections or allow Pardoe to imagine a bespoke and personal piece with intricacies that represent only you, they’re the perfect adornment for the wandering woman.

291

highlights

of Hands

A celebration of craftsmanship, technique and artisanship from Van Cleef & Arpels.

The Mock-up Maker - photo by Francesco Cito ©Van Cleef & Arpels

Mojeh

In Praise

The Pieces It all begins with a drawing. Even the most ornate, exquisite work of fantasy begins with pencil on paper. Maison Van Cleef & Arpels has garnered a reputation for putting the joy into jewellery, with whimsical pieces that elevate the art of accessories into a modern day fairytale. This ethos is echoed through everything the Maison produces. Ballerinas pirouette in flowing emerald skirts, Jules Verne inspired animals are brought to life in sapphires and flowers poetically tumble from brooches in multicoloured pearls. Van Cleef & Arpels creates an enchanted universe where anything is possible and dreams are realised in jewels.

292

The Diamond Cutter - photo by Francesco Cito ©Van Cleef & Arpels

F

iguratively throwing open the doors to their Maison, this month Van Cleef & Arpels offers an insight into the beguiling world of jewellery creation with a landmark exhibit as part of Design Days Dubai. Inspired by Franco Cologni’s book - In Praise of Hands: The Art of Fine Jewellery at Van Cleef & Arpels - guests will be able to explore the intricate and artisanal processes involved in a bringing a Van Cleef & Arpels piece to life.

Like any masterpiece, a finished work doesn’t merely spring into life.

It is the result of painstaking and impassioned work from dedicated and highly trained individuals, the Mains d’Or, the master craftsmen of Van Cleef & Arpels. From the sparkle of a diamond to the subtle and perfectly crafted curve of a band of platinum, human hands have sketched, forged and polished to create perfection. It is these hands that Van Cleef & Arpels now celebrate; a standing ovation for the cast who make the magic happen.

highlights

The Designer - photo by Francesco Cito ŠVan Cleef & Arpels

Mojeh

Flying Butterfly necklace with detachable clip.

White gold, round and marquise-cut Diamonds photo by Patrick Gries ŠVan Cleef & Arpels

293

294

The Polisher - photo by Francesco Cito ©Van Cleef & Arpels

Fuchsia clip Mystery Setting rubies - photo by Patrick Gries ©Van Cleef & Arpels

highlights

Mojeh

Mystery Setting Sliding the stones onto the rails - photo by Francesco Cito ©Van Cleef & Arpels

The Sculptor Engraver - photo by Francesco Cito ©Van Cleef & Arpels

Mojeh

For every diamond encrusted work of art that sits in a Van Cleef & Arpels display cabinet or wrapped around the neck of a beautiful woman, there was first a version in tin and rhinestones. Before being crafted in precious materials, Van Cleef & Arpels creates ornate mock-ups which are themselves finely detailed and beautifully rendered. While the materials may be different, the skill required by the mock-up makers is comparable to the jewellers who work in platinum and gold.

Of course jewels maketh the jewellery and so no stone is left unturned in the completion of an actual piece. A setter finely crafts the positioning of the stones and works with the minute prongs and closures that envelop the precious treasures used in Van Cleef & Arpels masterpieces.

It is fitting that the works of Shakespeare have previously inspired this High Jewelry Maison. Just like a theatrical production, dozens of hands are required to create a story and, just like theatre, many are unknown and will not feel the soft glow of the stage lights. In Praise of Hands is the moment in the spotlight for these timehonoured artisans.

Take the stone-cutter. A truly artisanal craft, stone-cutting is a difficult skill to learn and only the most talented are involved in making a Van Cleef & Arpels jewel shine. From rubies and sapphires to emeralds and fine stones, every gem selected by Van Cleef & Arpels except diamonds is hand cut, polished or machined by a stone-cutter.

Whilst the treasures used by Van Cleef & Arpels have a natural beauty, only a trained eye and practiced hands can bring them to life, whilst the same applies to making them shine.

At Maison Van Cleef & Arpels, even the polish is a work of art. Creating perfection is a time exacting and intensive process. Behind every jewel is a piece of metal that must be so blemish-free it reflects like a mirror and every mounting, every hidden crevice and every stone must be given careful attention until it shines from within.

From those who make the Maison shine to those who shape its path, the smelters of Van Cleef & Arpels deal in flowing molten metal and wax. Paris may be associated with romance and femininity, but at the centre of this historic European metropolis lies a workshop where a furnace melts platinum and gold to scorching liquid and where crucibles, files, chisels and rubber for molds lie ready to be used for high jewellery making. It is in this workshop that the stage for a finished piece is set. All of the disciplines and professions involved in the design, construction and finishing of a piece are assembled here.

Poured, cooled, cut, assembled, buffed, perfected, checked, after hours, days and weeks of work, what makes a piece are the final flourishes. A position ages in the making, a Van Cleef & Arpels sculptor and engraver requires five years as an apprentice before being tasked with an important stone. As a Maison that is noted for its sense of whimsy and fantasy, sculptors and engravers can find themselves responsible for bringing to life the wings of a fairy or the undulating tulle of a ballerina’s skirt from materials that are resolute and unyielding. They don’t just deal in carving of course, but are often called upon to imprint a message of love or a symbol of intimate importance. Through their work they not only help to bring the designer’s vision to life, but are responsible for adding the personal touches that ensure a Van Cleef & Arpels piece will forever touch the heart of the person who wears it.

Like the many elements that come together to form a dazzling necklace or a pair of drop earring, many sets of hands come together in the process of creation.

highlights

The Craftsmen and the Process

Experience the enticing journey for yourself: In Praise of Hands exhibition by Van Cleef & Arpels at Design Days Dubai, Sheikh Mohamed Bin Rashid Boulevard, Downtown Dubai, from 17 to 21 March.

295

Edit

Accessory

1

Colour Loving With the sumptuous shades of spring in mind, follow our colour coded accessory guide for the very best in costume, high-end and fine jewellery. Whether you stay true to blue, blush at the sight of pink or prefer to glow as audaciously as the orange sun, this season is about mixing up your sartorial by playing high-octane costume pieces off against delicate fine jewelleries. Indulge in a game of numbers and colours.

5

4

296

2

3

Edit

Accessory 6

1. ALEXANDER MCQUEEN | 2. MOUAWAD | 3. BVLGARI | 4. VERSACE | 5. MARNI | 6. FABERGÉ | 7. BVLGARI | 8.

MIRIAM SALAT | 9. JAEGER-LECOULTRE | 10. TABBAH | 11. AURÉLIE BIDERMANN @matchesfashion.com 7

8

9

10

11

297

1

2

3

5

298

4

Edit

Accessory

Edit

Accessory 7

8

6

10

1. DIOR | 2. MATTHEW WILLIAMSON | 3. CHAUMET | 4. LOUIS VUITTON | 5. CHAUMET | 6. SALVATORE FERRAGAMO | 7. CAROLINA HERRERA | 8. MICHAUD | 9. GUCCI | 10. SALVATORE FERRAGAMO 9

299

Edit

Accessory

2 1

3

4

5

1. ERMANNO SCERVINO | 2. MIRIAM SALAT | 3. PIAGET | 4. ROBERTO COIN | 5. VERSACE

300

Highlights

our Time

Mojeh

Jewels of

We celebrate Italian jewellery house Vhernier’s thirtieth birthday in a showcase of their bold stones, triumphant cuts and authentic Italian craftsmanship.

Founded in 1984 as a small jeweller’s workshop in Valenza, North of Italy, the craftsman at Vhernier offered a new landscape in the much sought after world of fine jewellery. Cuts moved from small and delicate - championed at the time by traditional Parisian houses such as Boucheron and Chaumet - to louder, tougher cuts more representative of the modern woman who was no longer a wall flower. Instead, women stood fearless in their style choices, with Vhernier’s bold stones and full-bodied designs helping them do so.

In 2001, Carlo Traglio took over as President of the company. Armed with the objective of developing the company while maintaining its history, tradition and unique craftsmanship, Traglio set his sights on cultivating Vhernier into a jewellery house that was celebrated in intimate and elite circles. ‘People who appreciate the object are those who can observe and cherish it, as only a lover could do. A Vhernier shape can be tasted only by those able to find it,’ reads the ethos of the brand. Quite true. Pieces are comprised from a number of outstanding stones, from tanzanite and emerald to mother of pearl or Amber.

Each is placed into a metal design - whether earrings, bracelet, brooche or the Vhernier favourite, rings - each unique, astonishing and true to the creativity of the house. Pieces bend in unexpected ways, creating mysterious curves. Where one would expect nothing but solid gold, small droplets of diamonds or rubies may be found offering a light effect, found nowhere else. Ultimately, the metal design is built to give a voice to the precious jewel it holds. And so Vhernier pieces stand today as beautifully elusive creatures whose intricacies are only truly understood by their owners.

To the unknowing observer, they remain enigmatic but undeniably magnificent; ‘Seeing these jewels for the first time, our sight and thoughts were captured. And we were suddenly spellbound.’

Whether Vhernier presents itself to you as a new discovery or remains as a long time love, these are sacred pieces with an enviable beauty that speak volumes about their wearers. Bold, passionate and unique, join us over the following pages to celebrate some of our favourite Vhernier jewels.

301

Highlights

Mojeh

1

2

3

4

ITALIAN TRADITION FOR UNIQUE JEWELLERY

Dubai, UAE, Jumeirah Emirates Towers, The Boulevard, Tel: +971 4 3544017

302

1. Doppiosenso, earrings in white gold and diamonds | 2. Palloncino, earrings in white gold, diamonds and lapis rock crystal | 3. PandiZucchero, stacked rose gold bracelets in a variation of stones and crystal | 4. Left side Tourbillon diamonds and Gold, on the right side Saturno ring

Highlights

Mojeh 1

3

2

ITALIAN TRADITION FOR UNIQUE JEWELLERY

Dubai, UAE, Jumeirah Emirates Towers, The Boulevard, Tel: +971 4 3544017

1. Tartaruga, brooch in white gold, diamonds, mother of pearl and rock crystal | 2. Venezia, ring in white gold diamonds and opal | 3. Fuseau, earrings in white gold, diamonds, siderite and mother of pearl

303

Highlights

Mojeh

1

2

3 4

ITALIAN TRADITION FOR UNIQUE JEWELLERY

Dubai, UAE, Jumeirah Emirates Towers, The Boulevard, Tel: +971 4 3544017

304

1. Cardinale, chain in rose gold, diamonds and coral | 2. Fuseau, earrings in rose gold chrysoprase mother of pearl rock crystal | 3. Tre Re, rings in rose gold, turquoise and lapis rock crystal | 4. Fuseau, bracelets in rose gold and a variation of stones and crystal

Flash

Accessory

Starry-Eyed Since autumn’s ‘Love’, ‘Cool’ and ‘Happy’ statement necklaces and rings, Lanvin’s accessories are fast becoming the secret stars of Alber Elbaz’s shows. Backstage at SS14, and the energetic collection aside – a somewhat manic but irresistible masterpiece paying homage to lamé and every shape of dress – we couldn’t keep our eyes off the diamond-embedded, star-shaped garnishes. How will you wear yours this summer? Take inspiration from Alber’s girls and hang one single earring, or for glamour-turned-gangster, confidently layer necklaces over this season’s must-have tees. Alternatively, opt for a brooche version neatly perched on the crown of your shirt. Whether emulating a single star in the night sky or a galaxy of bright shiny things, look to Lanvin for something uber-cool.

305

jewel in the night Photographed by christian HรถGSTEDT | Styled by anatolli smith

306

Arrows Clip in gold, with amethyst, Montana sapphire and diamond | Yellow and white diamond ring in gold and platinum, all Tiffany&Co

307

Montana sapphire, diamond and pearl chandelier earrings | Sapphire and diamond bracelet | Diamond Melee Bezet ring, all Tiffany&Co

308

Legacy Four Square diamond earrings in platinum | Enchant scroll diamond band ring | Enchant Tanzanite and diamond soleste ring, all Tiffany&Co

309

Enchant scroll diamond band ring, Tiffany&Co

310

Deco Line Necklace, Tiffany&Co

311

312

Yellow Diamond Melee Necklace, Tiffany&Co

313

White stars, black jade and diamond bangle | Enchant scroll diamond band ring | Diamond Melee Bezet ring, all Tiffany&Co

314

Model: Anna Lundgaard at Muse Management | Hair stylist: Takuya Sugawara | Make-up artist: Lucie Nguyen | Manicurist: Myrdith | Photographer’s assistant: Chad Davies | Production: Louis Agency

315

all i need Photographed by Nicolas Guerin Styled by Guillaume Boulez

Face Hydralife Close-Up Pore Reducing Moisturizer Diorskin Nude BB Crème Diorblush Corail Bagatelle Eyes Dior Backstage Eye Primer Dior Fusion Mono Tweed Diorshow Iconic Overcurl Mascara Lips Rouge Dior Grege Lipstick Nails Top & Base Coat - Dior, Glitter, Stylist’s own

Poisonous ring | Bois de Rose ring | My Dior ring | La Rose Dior Bagatelle earrings, all DIOR FINE JEWELRY

316

317

318

Face Dior Glow Maximizer Diorskin Nude Tan BB Crème Diorskin Nude Tan Matte Eyes Dior Backstage Eye Primer Diorshow Iconic Overcurl Mascara Dior Fusion Mono Tweed Lips Rouge Dior Rose Declamation Nails Dior Manicure Base Coat Abricot

Egratigna Angelique earrings | Poisonous ring, all DIOR FINE JEWELRY

319

Face Hydralife Close-Up Pore Reducing Moisturizer Diorskin Nude BB Crème Diorblush Corail Bagatelle Eyes Diorshow Mono Eye Shadow Mordore Diorshow Mono Eye Shadow Sequins Diorshow Iconic Overcurl Mascara Lips Dior Addict Fluid Stick Whisper Beige

La Rose Dior Bagatelle necklace | Incroyables Et Merveilleuses earrings, all DIOR FINE JEWELRY

320

321

322

Face Hydralife BB Cream Dior Pore Minimizer Dior Glow Maximizer Diorskin Nude Tan Mono Matte Eyes Dior Backstage Eye Primer Diorshow Mono Eyeshadow Mordore Diorshow Iconic Overcurl Mascara Lips Diorific Lipstick Diva 038 Nails Top & Base Coat - Dior Glitter/Stylist’s Own

My Dior Cuff | Egratina Chipie ring, all DIOR FINE JEWELRY

323

Face Hydralife BB Cream Dior Pore Minimizer Dior Glow Maximizer Diorskin Nude Tan Mono Matte Eyes Dior Backstage Eye Primer Diorshow Mono Eyeshadow Mordore Diorshow Iconic Overcurl Lips Rouge Dior Lipstick Plisse Soleil Nails Top & Base Coat – Dior, Glitters, Stylist’s own

Dear Dior earrings | Incroyables Et Merveilleuses ring | La Rose Dior Bagatelle ring, all DIOR FINE JEWELRY

324

325

326

Face Capture Totale Dream Skin Cream Diorskin Nude Fluid Foundation Diorskin Nude Tan Matte Dior Glow Maximizer Eyes Diorshow Mono Fusion Eyeshadow Meteore Diorshow Mono Eyeshadow Panama Diorshow Iconic Overcurl Mascara Lips Dior Addict Fluid Stick Magique Nails Dior Top & Base Coat Glitter/Stylist’s Own

Diorette Ring with Citrine | La Rose Dior Bagatelle ring | Diorette ring with Amethyst, all DIOR FINE JEWELRY

Model: Sofia Krawczya at Next Models | Makeup artist: Jolanta Cedro at B Agency | Hair stylist: Christian Attuly at B Agency | Manicurist: Kathy at B4 Agency | Photographer’s assistant: Julien Lienard and Esteban Wauthier | Retoucher: Esteban Wauthier | Local production: Backwall | Production: Louis Agency

327

Photographed by Giulia Noni, Issue 6

Photographed by Romanleo, Issue 5 Photographed by Silja Magg, Issue 7

328

Photographed by Riccardo Vimercati, Issue 18

Photographed by Gaetan Caputo , Issue 15 Photographed by Raphael Delorme & Thierno SY, Issue 10

Photographed by Raphael Delorme, Issue 7

Photographed by Sabine Villiard, Issue 12+1

Photographed by Thierno SY, Issue 7

329

Trends

Hair and Beauty

Seeing

Red

1

Whether matte, gloss or orange-based, a fiery hue is a lip essential. For perfect look-at-me lips leave the eyes without clout and let your lips do the talking.

2

3

4

1. DKNY | 2. HELMUT LANG | 3. MSGM | 4. JOHN GALLIANO

330

Trends

Talking

Hair and Beauty

Straight

2

Say goodbye to voluminous ‘dos, and hello to pokerstraight hair: it’s hot on the agenda for spring and perfect for girls who ooze attitude with ease.

1

3

4

1. CALVIN KLEIN | 2. CHLOE | 3. VALENTINO | 4. JASON WU

331

Trends

Hair and Beauty

1. TOM FORD | 2. VERONIQUE LEROY | 3. MICHAEL KORS | 4. ANTONIO MARRAS

2

1

3

4

Twist &

Shout Update your evening up ‘do by giving it a modern twist. Hairspray is a necessity for this gravity-defying, sultry classic.

332

Trends

Hair and Beauty

1. VERonique branquinho | 2. etro | 3. Cedric charlier | 4. fendi

1

2

3

4

She’s

Electric Bold is better. Adopt cartoon-like, single-tone hair to transform your ‘do into a beacon of electricity this summer.

333

Trends

Hair and Beauty

Crowning

Glory

2

Wear your braids like a halo this season. It’s your time for crowning glory.

1

3

4

1. Naeem khan | 2. fatima lopes | 3. nicole miller | 4. rebecca minkoff

334

Trends

Mood

Hair and Beauty

Blue

1

If you thought blue eye shadow had been left behind with the disco divas of the 80s, think again.

From sapphire, aqua to electric blue: fall into a blue hue for spring.

2

3

4

1. badgley mischka | 2. marc by marc jacobs | 3. anthony vaccarello | 4. zang toi

335

Trends

Hair and Beauty

Flower

Girl

2

Whether half a dozen, a whole dozen or ten dozen, too much is never enough. Use hair-pieces, embellished veils and dustings of the real thing to create a glorious garden in your locks.

1

3

4

1. PPQ | 2. ANTONIO MARRAS | 3. ZAC POSEN | 4. DOLCE & GABBANA

336

Trends

Glory

Hair and Beauty

Gilded

1

Inspired by a colour palette of golden sands – faces shimmered like the sun this season. Whether swathed across the eyes and cheeks St. Tropez style, or running through your locks, you too can be the girl with the golden touch.

2

3

4

1. JASON WU | 2. DIOR | 3. DRIES VAN NOTEN | 4. MICHAEL KORS

337

Trends

Hair and Beauty

1. BALMAIN | 2. LEMAIRE | 3. BOTTEGA VENETTA | 4. NINA RICCI

1

2

3

Au

Naturel We all know the golden fashion rule: less is more. A slick of mascara, barely-there blush and a nonchalant nude lip was the bountiful beauty highlight of the runways this season.

338

4

Trends

2

Hair and Beauty

1. TESS GIBERSON | 2. KENZO | 3. SIMONETTA RAVIZZA | 4. ALEXIS MABILLE

1

3

4

Opposites

Attract When black meets white a chemical reaction ensues.

Watch the two lovingly combine in front of you on your nails in marbled glory: it’s art, darling.

339

Exclusive

Beauty

Isn’t She

Lovely?

The perfect and poised Natalie Portman steps into the role of Miss Dior once again as the house releases the next fragrance in its Miss Dior line, Blooming Bouquet.

Christian Dior Parfums

340

‘After women, flowers are the most divine creations,’ - said Christian Dior. When we go behind the scenes of the new campaign for Blooming Bouquet, we’re dazzled by two divine creatures - actress Natalie Portman, serene and statuesque in her Raf Simon’s couture gown - and a bottle of Blooming Bouquet, the soft, girly fragrance presenting itself as the perfect evolution of the original 1947 Miss Dior. The new scent has a top note of tender and fragile peonies that are later complimented by rose, apricot and peach. Once spritzed across the skin or misted through hair, the scent develops, grows, and blossoms into a fragile yet evocative aroma that cocoons the wearer with an invisible aura of elegance. ‘Miss Dior Blooming Bouquet speaks in subtle undertones. It is a perfume that plays on the charm of seduction - the perfume of a woman full of grace,’ muses Francois Demachy, the house’s nose. With her youthful glow, sincere nature and achingly flawless looks, Natalie Portman projects this ideal impeccably in human form.

Photographed here by Tim Walker, the actress and her new perfume present Christian Dior’s original vision of a blossoming fragrance that exudes the poetic and graceful charm of a young, blossoming woman quite perfectly.

Backstage

Beauty

Alexandre Vauthier

Emulating

Perfection The Haute Couture arrival to Paris is always a delight within the beauty calendar. And this year it was as mesmerising as always, from eyes festooned in glistening glitter at Chanel to peachy perfection at Elie Saab.

341

Backstage

Beauty

Dark moody eyes and peachy perfect lips were projected onto pale skin at Stephane Rolland.

Theatrics were at the forefront for John Paul Gaultier, as lips were painted in racy red with dramatic electric blue eye shadow.

342

Backstage

Beauty

The Valentino Girls went for a paired back and sleek look all round.

Crafted by the hands of make-up artist Val Garland, lips melted into skin and eyes evoked a sense of drama with heavy eyeliner at Giambattista Valli.

343

Backstage

Beauty

Silk scarves were wrapped closely to heads at Armani Prive and complemented by a modern dusting of smoky black lids.

At Elie Saab lips were swathed in a touch of pink balm with a sweeping of blush to finish.

344

Backstage

Beauty

Pure white butterflies decorated dewy complexions at Alexis Mabille, capturing fantastical innocence.

Spiky hair encircled heads like halos at Chanel with thick and sombre feline flicks by Peter Philips.

345

Beauty Picks

Editor’s

1

Blumarine

Your complexion should remain natural and stark. A simple radiance boosting illuminator under your normal foundation or powder will offer an instant and healthy glow.

3

2 The new three-tipped, rounded mascara brushes allow for soft baby doll lashes.

Maintaining your brows is just as important for framing your new smoky eyes.

346

Rose Gold

Nothing works better for summer than a soft golden glimmer to the skin with a hint of rose on the lips and cheeks. MOJEH’s editor in chief picks the best products for a beauty look that radiates effortlessly under the glow of the Middle Eastern sun.

1. CLARINS, Instant Light | 2. DOLCE&GABBANA, Brow Liner | 3. GIVENCHY, Noir Couture Rose Pulsion | 4. LAPRAIRIE, Anti-ageing Eye and Lip Contour | 5. BOBBI BROWN, Old Hollywood | 6. YSL, Blush Radiance | 7. CHANEL, Chance | 8. DIOR, Addict Lipstick | 9. CHANEL, Precision Lip Definer | 10. GUERLAIN, D’enfer Gloss

4 Invest in a cream that encourages elasticity and contouring on the eyes and lips - you’ll be grateful for it even after the summer.

Editor’s

Beauty Picks

5

The smoky eye is key so invest in a palette that allows you to change shades as and when suits. Lean towards brown for day but then layer on lashings of gold for the evening.

Don’t be afraid to use the cream and beige shades around your eyes, lips and cheeks for contouring - the look is about shimmer after all.

6 A terracotta blush and shimmery bronzer can be used on the cheeks and forehead for a naturally bronzed effect.

8 7

A scent can help you live the look, so choose something fresh and summery that will evoke feelings of having just stepped off the beach with sun kissed skin in tow.

9

10

This allows for flexibility on the lips. I’ll be wearing a terracotta gloss for a deeper rose while matte pinks work best to avoid clashes with the shine on your eyes.

347

body

Mojeh

Beauty Secrets With

Toni Garrn

Image courtesy of Getty

She’s fast becoming the ultimate cover girl of her generation, having already fronted campaigns for some of fashion’s biggest players after signing with Women Management Paris. From Calvin Klein to Givenchy to Christian Dior, the Victoria’s Secret model’s striking looks have even attracted leading man Leonardo DiCaprio’s eye.

In this issue we find out Toni Garrn’s beauty and body secrets.

348

body

Mojeh

If you only had 4 minutes to get ready which beauty feature would you focus on?

Eyelashes!

What’s your favourite nail colour for summer?

Blue.

What is your all time investment beauty product?

Tinted moisturiser.

What’s your biggest beauty tip?

Always curl your eyelashes!

What’s the best beauty advice you’ve been given and by whom?

Contour your cheeks and highlight above the cheekbones and underneath the eyelashes. Pat McGrath always does that and I copied it from her.

What is your fail-safe hair and make-up look for a party?

Hair in a high bun, mascara and nude lip make-up.

Which beauty products do you wear on a daily basis and why?

Tinted moisturiser by Nars because it gives me a nice even skin color and contains SPF15 to protect my face from the sun.

Who is your beauty crush?

Christy Turlington Do blondes really have more fun?

I’m not sure, I’ve never been anything but blonde!

What time does your day usually start at?

When I have work its around 6AM, but otherwise 9AM. How many hours do you work out per day?

1-2 What are your favorite foods to eat to stay healthy?

Veggie smoothies, nuts and raw chocolate.

What do you do to stay fit?

Move every day, lots!

What’s your daily skincare regime?

Crealine Bioderma skin cleanser then an easy day cream to keep away the dryness.

How many hours of sleep do you get per night?

4-8 hours.

What’s your signature dish?

Any sushi or fish.

Which hair care products can you not live without?

Dry shampoo!

349

Health

Mojeh

tick tock

Time is the addiction of the modern world.

But what would happen if we threw caution to the wind and learnt to live off schedule?

MOJEH investigates.

By Emma Bailey

T

he National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors has a slogan: ‘Tempus vital regit’.

It means ‘Time Rules Life,’ and there is no truer statement to accurately describe our world today. We are a generation chained to the passing of time, and learning how to tell it is one of the first things we do. The emblazoned face of a watch or the digital display of a smartphone are more regularly checked than our Facebook accounts and value is calculated by the measured tick of one hand passing another. We wake to the shrill of pre-calculated alarms. We eat when the clock strikes 12 and work a set number of hours in a day without rest or respite until the minutes and seconds count down. We are compulsive in this need…the need to keep track of time, to be on time, to not let time run out. And it is a need that has been ingrained within us since its invention over 6000 years ago.

350

But why do we do it? Sure, in our minds, keeping time and running to a schedule makes life seem simpler and less chaotic. Organising one’s life whether it be appointments, luncheons or that slot in which to watch the next episode of a much loved series - is generally smoother if you know when it’s happening, and it certainly makes sense to conduct a meeting by telling everyone to be in the same place at the same time rather than expecting them to magically materialise. In reality however, and as research confirms, living our lives to the tune of a ticking clock is actually helping to ruin it, with the stress of attempting, but failing, live like clockwork. “Living by the clock imposes time pressure, psychological pressure and a level of anxiety,” says Dan Zakay, PhD, who specialises in the study of psychological time. “When you always have to do things, your time schedule ends up dictating your life. It was once believed that people who were time urgent were more likely to suffer from heart attacks.” One need only look to the Brazilians for confirmation of this.

In this South American haven, saying you’ll meet someone at 5 can equate to any time between 5, midnight or not at all. A report by the Pan American Health Organisation in 2011 recorded that the blood pressure of Brazilian folk is considerably lower than those in the neighbouring states where punctuality is the ritual of the masses. The same can also be said of many African communities who believe that unnecessary stress is caused by stopping the flow of one activity to attend to the allotted time of another. Moreover, a study carried out at the University of South Australia in 2010

Health

Mojeh

found that men who were completely deprived of any time telling devices (iPhones, iMacs, watches, alarms and microwave ovens included) slept well throughout the night, averaging a total of eight hours sleep between them. Not bad considering 35-40% of UAE residents suffer from a sleeping disorder, many of which are undoubtedly made worse by the constant urge to know the hour.

Underpinning our apparent obsession with clocks, however, is the more prevalent issue of our inability to let go and live in the moment, meticulously planning, as we do, every step and every corner of our lives. Rather than following the natural energy within us, we look to the external rigidity of a clock to determine our fate and thus live our lives in a constant state of unrest.

If we got up when we woke, ate when we were hungry, worked when we were most productive and slept when we were tired, would life not be better, more bearable and less of a strain?

The Pirahã tribe of the Amazon certainly seem to think so. Their unique and mostly unfathomable language doesn’t allow for time or numbers, meaning their life exists only in the here and now and not in either past or future tense. “By ignoring time,” Zakay muses, “one might live according to their own dreams and tempo, completely unrelated to the demands of society and reality.” A novel concept and a goal that crops up on myriad resolution lists year upon year.

But is the reality of turning off time as easy as it sounds? A quick Google search suggests not.

Unfortunately our lives are ruled by the beast.

Shunning its structure and formalities entirely

Rather than following the natural energy within us, we look to the external rigidity of a clock to determine our fate and thus live our lives in a constant state of unrest.

would lead to more problems than it would solve - missed deadlines, angry friends, the constant infuriation of not making it to the shops on time - you get the idea. But despite not being a mantra one can take on completely, there are benefits of adopting the message behind it. Rather than focusing on what the future holds - a moment in time that is never guaranteed - why not focus on the here and now, on what your body and mind is telling you to do today, at this moment and with this mindset? Switching off the alarm, stopping the clocks, covering that digital display with a post-it for one day a month, every month, might serve to be as therapeutically rewarding as a two week holiday to the Maldives. Learning how to appreciate the little things, and giving in to your spontaneous urges on occasion, could be just what you need to relax, unwind and enjoy the present, living rather than waiting to live.

After all, according to Mitch Albom’s best-selling book The Time Keeper, time was never meant to be invented anyway, so why let it rule the roost?

Turn over for some suggestions of where to kick back, relax and let time melt away. No watches allowed.

351

Health

INNer

Mojeh

Peace

In our bid to diminish clock watching, if even for an afternoon, we suggest visits to these havens where you can relax, rejuvenate and say farewell to your diaries and schedules.

Jumeirah Zabeel Saray, Dubai.

Soak out the Stress Behind ornately carved wooden doors, graphic monochrome marble encases a corridor, surrounded by sculptured arches laced in gold decor. Trickling water and a still calmness engulfs the atmosphere for an instantly relaxing ripple. The entrance to the Talise Ottoman Spa is as opulent and pleasing as its treatments. Located in Dubai’s Zabeel Saray hotel, it’s one of the largest spas in the Middle East with 42 treatment rooms. Continuing with tradition, the Turkish Hammam experience is a specialty.

Dating back centuries, the Hammam was not only perfect for bathing and rejuvenating, but also for socializing. A steamy hot room closed off from the rest of the world is where the Royal Ottoman Hammam treatment begins. As the minutes quickly pass, a therapist gently leads you to an area of tranquillity. Resting on a stone marble bed with a view of beautifully painted mural ceilings, a full body scrub softly lifts layers off your skin. The most peaceful sensation is followed by water being poured over you. A light foam cloud then runs across your body, gently cleansing your skin in olive soap. The scent left on your skin is delightful. Slowly your therapist takes you to a waterfall-esque basin where she washes and conditions your hair. To finish your entire body is soaked in honey, mint and sesame seed for ten minutes. A parting gift of the eye of Horus on a delicate bracelet is placed on your wrist as you leave feeling relaxed, rejuvenated and rebooted.

352

Health

Mojeh Kempinski Hotel and Residence, Dubai.

Safe Haven Finding your sanctuary, a place where you can switch off even for just a day, is not always an easy feat. We’ve been moulded into a species that expects nothing less than perfection and when relaxation time comes along so sparingly sometimes, why strive for anything less than flawless?

Located on The Palm, Dubai, whether you’re taking the 20 minute journey from the city centre or a two hour drive from a neighbouring Emirate, The Kempinski Hotel and Residence puts up its own invisible walls and shelters you inside, safely unaffected from the bustle of the outside world. Begin your day with a light breakfast at Brunello’s, a contemporary Italian restaurant boasting elegant white décor and overlooking the hotel’s exemplary grounds. With its soothing atmosphere, the only thing good enough to tear you away is the fresh sea breeze and sumptuous sands on the vast and private shoreline. Here, you have no option but to switch off and forget all sense of time, at least until the sun starts to dip. Your final stop must be the hotel spa. A list of lavish treatments ranging from Polynesian massages to Ayurveda options all encourage healing and relaxation and offer the perfect end to the perfect day. Whether visiting the Kempinski for a short break or looking to take up residency in its live-in quarters, use this angelic haven to regain perspective and focus on the moment.

353

Photographed by Joseph Paradiso and Yuki Tseng, Issue 12+1

Photographed by Raphael Delorme & Thierno SY, Issue 6 Photographed by Yoichiro Sato, Issue 12

Photographed by Giulia Noni, Issue 2

354

Photographed by Giulia Noni, Issue 4

Photographed by Simon Upton, Issue 1

Photographed by Giulia Noni, Issue 8 Photographed by Sy Delorme, Issue 11

Photographed by Riccardo Vimercati, Issue 15

355

In Residence

Artist

In the

Beginning Abdul Qader Al Rais is arguably the UAE’s most renowned artist. We speak to him about his humble beginnings, his international success and why he need never look further than his homeland for inspiration.

A

bdul Qader Al Rais is as Emirati as Kanduras and dates, so it was fitting that our first conversation unfolded in one of the region’s most iconic landmarks.

A vast curved splinter of white, the Burj Al Arab sits proudly on the coast of this new metropolis, a symbol of Dubai’s sprint run from desert to desirable destination. But Al Rais was a fixture of the emirate when all that was in Jumeirah was sand and waves, and he’ll no doubt continue to be a fixture when the region is transformed yet again, putting on its best face for a curious world at Expo 2020.

‘In 1990 we had one gallery, now we have over 60,’ Al Rais reminisces, ‘the UAE has become one of the most important places for art in the Middle East.’ It’s a transformation that Al Rais has been able to witness firsthand but if you’re expecting gushing excitement you’ll be disappointed, for he is simply not the type. Dignified, understated but far from solemn, he chooses his words carefully and our conversation is punctuated with pregnant pauses as he muses before responding. During these moments of quiet there’s a tangible sense of gravitas.

356

The few people who have joined us for the conversation sit captivated, with no clinking of teacups or rustling of paper. You can feel their respect and it’s hardly surprising.

After all, Al Rais is frequently described as being the UAE’s most ‘important and highly celebrated artist’.

It’s a description he seems to accept begrudgingly, modestly diverting our line of questioning when we ask just how it feels to be so renowned. ‘Sometimes you get a gift from Allah,’ he says. ‘When I’m showing abroad they’ll always write ‘Emirati artist’ before my name. To have my country’s name before my own means that whatever I do I’m giving back, I’m giving back to my country.’

It was in the 1960s, when Al Rais was just a teenager, that his flair for painting began to manifest and by the mid 70s he was winning awards. Despite a career that has seen him collect trophies by the armful, it was this first gesture of recognition that still resonates the most. ‘If you get a prize for the first time it’s something special and you remember it for your whole life. The others are just repetition.’ Of course he’s quick to clarify with his usual, subtle congeniality, ‘but you have to appreciate any prize because, regardless, it’s always a special situation’.

Sitting in a space surrounded by his work – lounging within the confines of an exhibit organized by Swiss Art Gate UAE – it’s apparent his work has a distinctive identity.

His most recent pieces combine calligraphy with striking colour, applied with purposeful and confident strokes. They serve as an abstract representation of the region in which we live. The colours are emotively exaggerated; the azure waters of the Persian Gulf rendered in vibrant cyan and deep navy, the dusty tan of the sand in blazing orange and yellow. His classic work is more literal. Wind towers dominate canvasses,

357

In Residence

Artist

358

In Residence

Artist

In Residence

Artist

shadows pour through Arabic trestles and watercolour fishing boats painted in the early 90s sit against desert horizons devoid of skyscrapers. As we see the region evolve in his paintings we better understand that Al Rais is an artist who has found his footing and success through experience, over time. ‘I was perhaps the first in this part of the world to use colours and materials the way I do,’ he tells us. ‘It helped me look like a pioneer. I’ve been through phases of trying realistic work, of impressionism and of expressionism. If you look back to the 60s there was no one talking about art here. There was maybe one small shop where you could buy paint for interiors. When my father passed away in the late 50s, I went to Kuwait where my sister lived with her husband, and I got the paint and materials for free! When I came back to the UAE I continued and so you could say that the art here started with me. It also means I’ve had decades to explore my craft.’

Whilst the respect Al Rais engenders in others is obvious, so too is the respect he personally has for art. His process has been meticulous, the time spent on a single painting or project, and his journey from beginner to celebrated veteran. ‘I call it the ‘right way’ in art. I started with the masters, who I loved, people like Raphael, Rembrandt and Monet. I studied them. I emulated them. In the beginning, people rush to the abstract but I don’t believe they’ll be able to continue or do good work, because the foundation isn’t right. I used to work for the government in an office, and when I had free time I would draw or paint. I felt in my heart that art and the action of painting was stronger than sitting and working in an office and so as soon as I could support myself with my work, I left. I’m a self-taught artist but I still believe you have to start from the bottom and get the foundations right.’

For all of his reticence and modesty, Al Rais’

As we see the region evolve in his paintings we better understand that Al Rais is an artist who has found his footing and success through experience, over time.

approach has afforded him credibility and admiration from a global audience. He’s not just an ‘Emirati artist’, he is an artist showcased on worldwide stages. His work hangs in the British Museum alongside names that even an art novice would recognize.

‘I’ve got a lot of students who I’ve never met,’ he says, setting aside his humility for just a moment to acknowledge the impact he has had on the region’s emerging talent. ‘I admit there are those who might like my style and try to copy my work, especially in the Gulf region and also Iraq, Egypt and Lebanon.

Some people admire my use of colours, some the calligraphy and some people are inspired by me being a self-taught artist.

I only hope my example gives them the motivation to work in the field of art and, more importantly, continue working in the field of art.’

Al Rais will always be known as one of the forebears of this nation’s art scene.

He describes himself as both ‘proud and fortunate’ to have been able to see his homeland flourish into the prosperous hub it is today - a place where creativity is celebrated and more and more people enter the art world with each new generation. Still, he doesn’t lose sight of his own aspirations.

For a man like Abdul Qader Al Rais, what more could there be to wish for? ‘I just wish that the best of my work is yet to come.’

359

Review

Cultural

The Diary go, see, do

Canvas on Wood, Manfred Mohr, courtesy Carroll / Fletcher

The Heart of Our Art With each passing year, the Middle Eastern art scene continues to flourish and garner increasing levels of international credibility. At the core is Art Dubai. A platform for the region’s most vibrant talent, it has secured its position as the most respected event of its kind. Now in its eighth edition, 2014 sees the addition of a new gallery section, Modern, focusing on 20th century art from the Middle East and South Asia. Work from Central Asia and the Caucasus is showcased, with the section curated by Slav and Tatar artists to ensure a sense of creative authenticity.

Art Dubai, 19-22 March 2014

360

Translated Vase, Yeesookyung, 2009, courtesy Ota Fine Arts

Cultural

Review

Dubai

One for the Road Whilst all of the action of Art Dubai might be happening at Madinat Jumeirah, ArtBus offers an opportunity to explore Dubai’s more static art community. Operating on three routes, the Al Quoz bus offers a comprehensive guided adventure around the city’s industrial spaces. The home of contemporary, cutting-edge art, Al Quoz has flourished into an area known for innovation, and the route covers dozens of galleries. Leaving at 10am and returning to Souk Madinat Jumeirah at 6pm, if your artistic appetite isn’t sated after a day of strolling spaces, passengers have the opportunity to steal a few minutes in Art Dubai before doors close.

ArtBus, 20-22 March 2014, www.artinthecity.com

40 Kong

Rami Farook, Traffic Gallery © Siddharth Siva/ ArabianEye / Corbis

King Kong One of the newer additions to Dubai’s buzzing nightlife scene, 40 Kong brings rooftop cocktails and nibbles to new heights. Appropriately located on the 40th floor of the H Hotel, this outdoor lounge offers spectacular views of the surrounding skyline.

Opening its doors at sunset and keeping them open until the wee hours, expect pulsating beats and a lively ambience. Hot on the heels of its late-January opening, 40 Kong is quickly becoming a must-try venue, with its popularity set to soar even higher as the city transitions from breezy winter to balmy spring. www.thecrystalgroup.net/4kong

361

Review

Cultural

tokyo Today in Tokyo The largest fair of its kind in Japan, Art Fair Tokyo displays an eclectic selection of works from a variety of genres and periods. Held in the Tokyo International Forum, it features antiques and crafts as well as contemporary art and traditional nihonga. Over 160 galleries from the region and abroad have joined the 2014 exhibitors list, with the event designed to coincide with the city’s cherry blossom season. It pulls tourists from across Japan and just about everywhere else. As displays are not limited to art, Art Fair Tokyo has garnered a reputation as one of the most widely appealing events on the international circuit and remains the focal point of the city’s cultural calendar.

Art Fair Tokyo, 7-9 March 2014

362

Review

Cultural

Painting the Past Japanese artist Hiroshige is widely acknowledged as one of the last great artists of the Ukiyo-e tradition. The style, which has become synonymous with traditional notions of the nation’s art, rose to prominence between the 17th and 19th centuries. For Hiroshige, Edo (now modern day Tokyo) was often his muse and his landscapes continue to be celebrated as some of the greatest achievements in Japanese art. Now his work meets modernity in Hiroshige’s Edo, an eBook from Taschen designed specifically for iPad. With more than 120 quality colour images and galleries, it serves as a monument to his work’s unique ability to transcend generations.

Hiroshige’s Edo, www.taschen.com, available for download on the iBookstore View from eBook Hiroshige

© PictureNet / Corbis

Blooming Marvellous Ueno Sakura Matsuri, the cherry blossom festival in Ueno Park, is as quintessentially Japanese as festivals get. With over 1200 cherry trees dazzling during the brief blooming season, this central Tokyo haven becomes a hive of activity. From late afternoon to early evening thousands of bonbori (Japanese paper lanterns) are lit, transforming the park into an atmospheric Studio Ghibliesque wonderland. With several hundred thousand visitors descending on the park daily, a variety of special activities also blossom around the area with antiques markets, open-air film screenings and rows of stalls selling traditional Japanese street food.

Ueno Sakura Matsuri, late-March to early-April 2014

363

Review

Cultural

Principally of Monaco When jetting off to art fairs new, few locations are as enticing as the French Riviera. With a strapline that reads ‘Salon d’art par excellence,’ Art Monaco is certainly an art fair with panache. Running over just four days in April, the glitterati assemble for a taste of contemporary art, with a select schedule showcasing both established and emerging talent. For many, this annual art event is not merely an opportunity to indulge in the creative but an occasion to mingle with the region’s influential - to see and be seen.

Art Monaco, 24 - 27 April 2014

© Sergio Pitamitz / Corbis

364

Cultural

Review

Monaco

Check Out, Check In From the super yachts moored in the marina to the helicopters circling overhead, Monaco is often more of a pit stop than a longterm stay. But as you prepare to jet, sail or drive off to your next seasonal destination, look no further than Hotel Stories, The Luxury Collection from Assouline, for a little guidance on where next to lay your head. Featuring over 80 hotels spanning the globe, this traveller’s bible not only includes details of the most luxurious venues but also a few tales for the road such as the lavish parties of Prince Rainier of Monaco and Grace Kelly, and insider tips on favourite stays from the likes of Andrea Fazzari and Stanley Tucci. www.assouline.com

Metropolitan Area Like most of the prestigious haunts of this glamorous principality, Hotel Métropole has had its share of royalty and celebrities waft through the ornate lobby. Situated in Monte Carlo, it is a stone’s throw from the famous casino and the Boulingrins Gardens.

Behind the distinctive and monumental Belle Epoque façade lies a modern take on 19th century classicism, complete with tapestries and elaborate flower displays.

Rooms are grand and traditional with floral fabrics, chunky dark wood furniture and heavy curtains, but no modern amenity is forgotten. With the bar a notable meeting place for the international flock, expect familiar faces and sunglasses indoors. www.metropole.com

365

Review

Cultural

Hong Kong

Dancing as a Pupa (Homage to a Dancer), Katsura Funakoshi, 1951, courtesy Beck & Eggeling Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre

Asian Basel Art Basel Hong Kong is the latest string in the Art Basel bow. With a unique flavour that reflects the diversity of the location, half of the galleries exhibiting are from the Asia and Asia-Pacific regions. The city’s reputation as a gateway between East and West and as a global hub of trade, travel and culture means that Art Basel serves as a dynamic platform to showcase both regional and international talent. Launched in 2013, the show features more than 250 galleries, over two thousand artists and takes place in the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre – a dramatic monolith of glass and stone jutting from Victoria Harbour.

Art Basel Hong Kong, 15-18 May 2014

366

Review

Cultural

A View to a Thrill Located on the top floor of the Hotel Icon in Tsim Sha Tsui, Above & Beyond combines fine dining with spectacular panoramic views of the city.

Designed by Conran & Partners – of Sir Terence Conran fame – it echoes the refined sensibility of a private members club. Handpicked books and Asian artifacts line the library-style shelves, whilst distinctive artworks curated by Freeman Lau adorn the walls. Formerly Chef du Cuisine at the Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong, Joseph Tse brings 37 years of experience to a menu that includes steamed lobster with egg white and black truffle, and smoked Bresse pigeon with oolong tea leaves. www.hotel-icon.com/above-and-beyond

Giselle, image by Brescia Amisano, Teatro alla Scala

Above & Beyond

Performance Piece One of Asia’s premier cultural highlights, the Hong Kong Arts Festival, features a spectacular array of events. From opera and theatre to live classical music and dance, the 2014 roster is as overflowing as always. Classical highlights include the London Symphony Orchestra, the Hong Kong Sinfonietta with Benjamin Grosvenor and Ivan Fisher, and the Budapest Festival Orchestra. If you prefer to be kept on your toes, La Scala Ballet perform Giselle while the Scottish Ballet take on Highland Fling.

For theatre aficionados and Shakespeare fans, the Bristol Old Vic present A Midsummer’s Night Dream and the National Theatre of China play a love game with Romeo and Juliet.

Hong Kong Arts Festival, 18 February to 22 March 2014

367

Photographed by Michael Schwartz

subscribe to

MOJEH magazine have the very best in style delivered directly to you.

Call or email us at +971 4 454 2050 and subs@mojeh.com

www.cappellini.it

Mumbai ITTS House, K Dubash Marg, Kalaghoda, Mumbai 400001 Tel: 91 22 66153334

NEW DELHI E-10, Defence Colony, Ring Road, New Delhi 110024 Tel +91-11-40817357