Issue 23 by MOJEH

NOV / DEC

THERE ARE EXCEPTIONS TO EVERY RULE.

ROYAL OAK DIAMOND SET IN PINK GOLD.

HOLIDAY 2014

Whiplash Tatum Tote in black

Coach proudly supports the High Line. coach.com

HIRE LOUIS FOURTEEN TO BUILD YOUR CLOSET FOR THE NEW SEASON.

Chairman SHAHAB IZADPANAH

EDITORIAL

PUBLISHING

Editor in Chief MOJEH IZADPANAH

Publishing Director RADHIKA NATU

Associate Editor SHERI IZADPANAH

Publishing Assistant DESIREE LABANDA-GAVERIA soheil Najafian razavi

Assistant Editor KELLY BALDWIN

Subscription Assistant gracelyn gabriel

Digital Assistant Editor Jake Hamilton

Paris Representative GHISLAIN DE CASTELBAJAC

Guest Fashion Editors CHRIS BENNS GUILLAUME BOULEZ

Senior Advertisement Manager Pamela Bayram Cleave

Fashion Writer susan devaney

Advertising Inquiries Tel: +971 4 454 20 50 Tel: +971 4 425 79 79 Email: advertising@mojeh.com

Digital Editorial Assistant Christopher Prince

Subscription Tel: +971 4 454 20 50 Email: subs@mojeh.com

Junior Editorial Assistant CHarlotte codd Editorial Contributors EMMA GRACE BAILEY NAOMI CHADDERTON

LOUIS FOURTEEN FOR MOJEH Concierge Service Management ASSMA AHMED

ART

Head of Lifestyle OLGA KOVALCHUK

Producer LOUIS AGENCY

Corporate Manager JUBRAN HAMATI

Art Director AMIRREZA AMIRASLANI

Manager IT Division Ali Roman

Digital Strategy LOUIS AGENCY

Senior Stylist MARIAN GIRGIS

Contributing Photographers ALVARO BEAMUD CORTES AMBER GRAY PIETER HENKET sarvenaz hashtroudi

Cover photographed by Alvaro Beamud Cortes, model wears silk chiffon dress with animals of the forest print, earrings and make-up, all Dolce&Gabbana

Published under HS Media Group FZ LLC Registered at Dubai Media City Building 10, Office 345 P.O.Box 502333, Dubai, UAE WWW.MOJEH.COM Louis Fourteen for MOJEH Follow us on Twitter @MOJEH_Magazine MOJEH Swiss Representative Office: Rue de Rive 4, 1204 Geneva, Switzerland Average qualified circulation (January-June 2014): 14,184 copies. For the UAE printed by Emirates Printing Press LLC. Distribution- UAE: Al Nisr Distribution LLC. Qatar: Dar Al Sharq. Bahrain: Jashanmal & Sons BSC (C). Oman: United Media Services LLC. Lebanon: Messageries Du Moyen-Orient The publishers regret that they cannot accept liability for error or omissions contained in this publication, however caused. The opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessary those of the publishers. Readers are advised to seek specialist advice before acting on information contained in this publication which is provided for general use and may not be appropriate for the readers particular circumstances. The ownership of trademark is acknowledged, therefore reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. All credits are subjects to change. Copyright HS MEDIA GROUP FZ LLC 2011

- Quais de Seine, Paris Extremely Piaget Collection, Haute Joaillerie.

piaget.com

PIAGET BOUTIQUES: Abu Dhabi: Avenue at Etihad Towers, 02 667 0044 Dubai: The Dubai Mall, 04 339 8222, Mall of the Emirates, 04 347 6336 Dubai: Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, Atlantis 04 422 0233, Burj Al Arab, 04 348 9000, Burjuman Centre, 04 355 9090 Abu Dhabi: Al Manara International Jewellery, St. Regis Hotel, 02 6673535, The Galleria Sowwah, 02 6743444

Mojeh

Contents

SOCIETY

My Stylish Life

Fashion runs in her family. We delve into the seriously stylish life of PR and Communications Director, Josette Awwad Safieddine.

The Ladies Who Lead

Who are the women of 2014? We discuss the young models, muses and actresses who are gracing the red carpet and achieving more than most.

the Legacy of De La Renta As we say goodbye to one of the fashion industryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most-loved and celebrated designers, we remember the legacy Oscar de la Renta has left behind.

The Billion Dollar Woman

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She has it all. Jessica Alba may be famed for her acting skills, but now she stands at the helm of an entirely different empire.

Our tribute to women. Pavonina

Pavonina. A brilliant tribute to women in all their facets. Glashütte Original introduces a new collection of glamorous timepieces that combine seductive femininity, timeless elegance and highest precision. Discover the richly faceted Pavonina collection at www.glashuette-original-pavonina.com.

Glashütte Original Boutique ”The Dubai Mall“ ⋅ Financial Centre Street ⋅ 00971 04 3 39 87 62 ⋅ glashuttedm@rivoligroup.com Glashütte Original Boutique ”The Burjuman Centre“ ⋅ The Burjuman-Centre Dubai ⋅ 00971 04 3 86 74 06 ⋅ Glashutte.burjuman@rivoligroup.com

Mojeh

Contents

FASHION

Journey of a Woman On the eve of her published memoirs hitting the shelves, we speak to Diane von Furstenberg about her past, present and future.

106

106 Counting Sheep

How will you be keeping out the chill this winter? We’ll be looking for the letter s: shearlings and sheepskins.

110 New Bohemia

110

It’s the season to set free your inner Bohemian. As the practice of Bohemia experiences a rebirth we ask: why?

116

fashion with heart

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We’ve all got the Stella woman inside us. From her upbringing to her latest collection, we speak to the lady in question, Stella McCartney.

Mojeh

Contents

ACCESSORIES

168 Scene Stealers

Look to the streets outside last winter’s runway shows for some detailed style inspiration.

168

172 A Change in Pace

172

Say hello to your new best friend: flats. Find out why the comfy and less-is-more footwear choice is here to stay.

178

Eight Ways to Wear

This season eight is the magic number. With Dior’s latest accessory offerings, we show you how, why and where to wear them.

178

180

Winter’s Wonders

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Looking stylish throughout the wintery weather has never been so easy, thanks to our edit of the best accessories to complete any outfit.

Mojeh

Contents

BEAUTY

200 Winter Notes

From rosemary to cedar to peony, find a scent that suits you from our edit of the finest fragrances of 2014.

200

206 Kiss Me Quick

206

Are you an orange-based hue or a pop of pink? Perfect your pout for the party season with our guide to this winterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s shades.

208 La Dolce Vita

Sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s glamorous, full of vitality and warmth. Channel the Italian bombshell with our step-by-step guide for a headto-toe transformation.

208

212

Saying Goodbye to Dairy

212 38

Would you be able to live without cheese? Or milk? Or chocolate? Investigate the growing trend of saying goodbye to all-things dairy.

For those who know.

Home to some of the world’s most exclusive brands. Art-infused surroundings. A destination for those who know what they want – without letting on where they got it. Created for connoisseurs. For those who don’t leave a room without leaving an impression. Take a stroll through Avenue at Etihad Towers in Abu Dhabi and make the world of craftsmanship your own.

A. LANGE & SOHNE • AL GUSTO RESTAURANT • BALLY • BOSS HUGO BOSS • BREGUET • BURBERRY • BVLGARI • CANALI CARTIER • CHLOÉ • DE GRISOGONO • ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA • FAUCHON LE CAFÉ • GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI • GIVENCHY • HERMÈS HERVÉ LÉGER • JAEGER LECOULTRE • JM WESTON • KITON • LANVIN • MANOLO BLAHNIK • MONTBLANC • OFFICINE PANERAI PIAGET • PORSCHE DESIGN • ROBERTO CAVALLI • ROLEX • SALVATORE FERRAGAMO • STEFANO RICCI • STEPHANE ROLLAND THE EAST INDIA COMPANY • TOM FORD • VAN CLEEF & ARPELS • VERSACE • VERTU

www.avenueatetihadtowers.ae

Mojeh

Contents

CULTURE

218 The Real Factor

Can you imagine a world without street style blogs? We speak to the photographers who are putting the real back into reality.

218

224 224

Artist in Residence Take a closer look at an institution for artistic and cultural exchange: Louvre Abu Dhabi.

228

The Chanel Diaries

Travel our timeline, as we get lost in the life of self-proclaimed culture enthusiast and designer, Gabrielle Chanel.

228

234 The Art of Style

234 40

Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s easy to master if youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re creative director Sofia Sanchez Barrenechea. Join us as we follow her day-today musings.

Letter

Winter’s Palace, Photographed by Amber Gray

Editor’s

Dream-Like State

Mojeh Izadpanah Editor in Chief

This issue’s cover features Dolce and Gabbana’s autumn collection and beautifully sums up the mood of the season we’re about to step into. As our model twirls her silk dress, she engulfs herself in a tornado of striking purple and a fantastical forest of blush pink gardenia - woodland creatures included – stirring up thoughts of Snow White or A Midsummer Night’s Dream. If ever we leaned towards visions of fairy tales on our covers, it’s now. And it’s during this time of year – where we step towards winter and all the seasonal festivities it entails – that we should each be falling deep into our own dreams. In the photoshoot Caught In A Dream, we showcase the industry’s latest offering of couture. From the reverie of Armani Privé and the avant-garde of Maison Martin Margiela to the seductiveness of Versace, we move through the many states of winter’s couture. Which dream will you fall into? Back to reality and we feature a collective of women who are making big footprints in today’s world. Actress Jessica Alba tells us about The Honest Company and why her own experiences as a mother pushed her to enhance the lives of others and on the eve of the release of her memoirs, The Woman I Wanted To Be, Diane von Furstenberg takes us on her path. Later, in a rare interview with designer Stella McCartney, we speak to the woman who has changed the face of fashion with her pared back collections and principled ways. ‘My inspiration is always women in general. What they want and what they need,’ said the designer. ‘I like to design things that allow women to be themselves but at the same time offer something that they might not have thought of or perhaps wouldn’t have dared to do.’ As we visit style ideas in both beauty and accessories, we too hope to fuel you with confidence while keeping you comfortable. While it may be easy to get swept up by the speed of the season - that last minute dive for the right outfit, the newest in table settings and the years close of work budgets before we head off on our winter escapes - I say stop and absorb everything this time of year has to offer. Whether you find that through a once in a lifetime new year’s trip, a Christmas spent with those closest to you or the romance of a gown such as our cover star, this is the season made for the magical and mystical. ‘What’s exciting about life is learning. It’s that curious moment of trying to look for something and then thinking that you’ve found it. It’s about what tomorrow’s going to bring,’ Oscar de la Renta told us in 2011. Inspiring words and a sentiment that couldn’t ring truer at this moment in time. Turn to the society pages where we honour the life of this great man and designer. ‘I always say that elegance is a discipline of life,’ he said. These are words that will forever stay engraved in my mind. Follow me on Twitter and Instagram @Mojeh_I and write to me at editor@mojeh.com

CARA DELEVINGNE BAG

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Snapshots

Editor’s

Winter

Wonderland With the cooler climate comes the holiday season so make sure your winter wardrobe packs the wow factor. Whether you’re relaxing with family and friends or dancing the night away in Zuhair Murad’s elegant gown, ‘tis the season to be well dressed. Be prepared - you never know when that last minute soirée will pop up.

Snapshots

Editor’s 9. LA COLLECTION PRIVÉE | 10. DOLCE & GABBANA | 11. MULBERRY | 12. VAN CLEEF & ARPELS | 13. ZUHAIR MURAD @stylebop.com

snapshot

Fashion is a form of shield for the modern woman. Whether you prefer fierce footwear or a slick red lip to give you confidence, who can deny the power that a strong look has on your attitude? Protect yourself against the elements and shade your eyes from the sun or cover up with a cape. 1

maison Martin Margiela

Inspiration

FASHION ARMOUR

design a n d technology.

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PANERAI BOUTIQUES

DUBAI - The Dubai Mall - +971 4 339 8444 ABU DHABI - Avenue at Etihad Towers - +971 2 681 8660; The Galleria at Sowwah Square, Al Maryah Island - + 971 2 491 9748 Do w n load th e L ayar A p p to d i s cover n e w co ntents.

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alberta ferretti

Inspiration

Bright Blue Sea Electric blue hues were awash on runways this season and are perfect for adding energy to an otherwise moody autumn colour palette. Work a subtle blue lash from Dior or go full body blue in Lisa Marie Fernandez. Just don’t miss out on a chance to brighten up any winter’s tale. 1

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The Golden Arches Logo is a trademark of McDonaldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Corporation and its affiliates used with permission. Moschino is proud to support Ronald McDonald House CharitiesÂŽ

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Interview

Spotlight On Faking It

She’s the girl that everyone’s talking about. From showcasing at London Fashion Week to counting style insiders Laura Bailey and Natalie Massenet among her FROW fashion fanbase, Hannah Weiland’s’ colourful faux fur is on many a wishlist. As her latest Shrimps collection launches at Selfridges in London, the UK-based designer’s future looks cosy.

Hannah Weiland

Film stills courtesy of Shrimps, Shrimps World

What was the inspiration behind your AW14 collection? For the Shrimps AW14 collection, I was inspired by the collage artwork of Eduardo Paolozzi and my British childhood. Colour is key, with a combination of pastels, classics and popping brights in our luxurious and ultra-soft faux fur. Where did the name Shrimps come from? Shrimps is a childhood nickname- when I was born I was small and pink like a shrimp! How would you describe the woman who wears your designs? Fun loving. Who would you like to see in a Shrimps coat? Grayson Perry and Grandmothers. What’s great about faux fur? It is harm-free, very soft and (in my opinion) nicer in every way than real fur.

MALL OF THE EMIRATES 1ST FLOOR 971 4 3794902 THE DUBAI MALL FASHION AVENUE 1ST FLOOR 971 4 3308205

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Style

READ ALL ABOUT IT DIOR: THE PERFUMES

As keen coffee table book collectors, to say we’re excited about this latest new launch would be a huge understatement. The House of Dior has created a book documenting the history of the brand’s fragrance since the inception of Miss Dior in 1947. Bringing together 65 years of perfume and an archive of fashion and advertising campaigns, Rizzoli has undertaken its latest project with zeal. Broken down into three distinct themes - Christian Dior and the Artists, From Granville to Grasse, and Perfume Behind the Scenes - the tome covers all manner of inspirations that led to the creation of the house’s iconic scents. Providing an insight into the man that was at the helm of the house from its creation in 1946 until his death in 1957, we also get a behind-the-scenes look at Christian Dior’s friendships, his passion for the arts, gardens and flowers. Whether you’re a long time Dior lover or new to the party, the volume provides interest and inspiration for any reader. That’s our evenings sorted.

Dior, Les Parfums. Rizzoli International Publications, Advertising image for Dior Addict, 2014. Photograph by Ryan McGinley

The Iconoclasts: Marc Newson, Rei Kawakubo, Christian Louboutin, Cindy Sherman, Karl Lagerfeld and Frank Gehry. Gouache on paper by by Jean-Philippe Delhomme, © Louis Vuitton/Jean-Philippe Delhomme

On The WISH LIST THE ICON ANDTHE ICONOCLASTS

Louis Vuitton has added to their lengthy list of successful collaborations, this time pairing up with a whole host of prolific names. Christian Louboutin, Cindy Sherman, Frank Gehry, Karl Lagerfeld, Marc Newson and Rei Kawakubo have all taken the brand’s Monogram as a blank canvas in order to create a personally inspired bag or piece of luggage. ‘We were interested in people who work with their mind and their hands,’ says Louis Vuitton Executive Vice President, Delphine Arnault on the choice of collaborators. ‘It is inspiring to see how they envision things, to see their perspectives. This is a group of geniuses.’ Already available in the UAE, Qatar and Kuwait, don’t miss out on a chance to take one of these exclusive and limited edition Icons home. Which genius will you proudly parade on your arm?

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Beauty

5 6

Whether you opt for Laura Mercier’s deep and dark tones this winter or welcome spring early with Dior, purple is the colour du jour. We can’t get enough of the wearable and seductive shade on our lips, eyes, fingers and toes. Let your make-up bag take a turn toward darker depths with our favourite buys of the season. 1. CHANEL, Les 4 Ombres in Poesie | 2. CHANEL, Rouge Coco Shine lipstick in Confident | 3. LAURA MERCIER, Lipstick in Temptation | 4. GUERLAIN, 4 Couleurs in Les Roses | 5. DIOR, Vernis in Spring | 6. MAC, Eye shadow in Hidden Motive

SNAPSHOT

Regional

Selina Neri and Dur Fayez

Add To the

Shopping Map D a d u It’s the latest modern shopper’s way: scouring websites for their latest sartorial purchases. As shopping online continues to rise, business savvy duo Selina Neri and Dur Fayez are making the impersonal, personal with the recent launch of their luxury e-commerce site, Dadu Luxe. We speak to the ladies behind the luxury. ‘We met three years ago for dinner and the stars were aligned. We just clicked, instantly’, recalls Selina. After this fateful encounter, the two decided to collaborate, fusing their knowledge, love and passion for all things luxurious. ‘Our idea was very clear: we needed to create something that was very unique. We saw a gap that we wanted to fill. Online shopping can be very impersonal yet women love to shop in privacy, in intimate environments’, says Dur. Where east meets west and online fuses with offline, Dadu Luxe indulges its clients’ love for high-end fashion with intimate events for VIP clientele (including personal shopping

L u x e and meet-and-greets with designers), an everexpanding list of brands and hand-picked distinctive pieces that can be tried on in the comfort of your own home - the first of its kind in the region. From Elie Saab to Manolo Blahnik, the Dadu Luxe online shopping experience offers the best of the best for the woman who wants it all. ‘She is extremely cosmopolitan, she’s very fashion savvy, informed, sophisticated and with high expectations for service’, says Selina. With great global intentions, moving to Dubai satisfied their every whim. ‘Dubai was a choice made by both the heart and mind. It is the most modern and cosmopolitan city in the Gulf,’ believes Selina. With their desired client base situated in one of the most luxurious shopping havens of the world, the creators behind this new shopping experience ‘hope to change the way women shop online and make history, all at the same time.’

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Style

cool COLLABORATION BARABOUX AW CAMPAIGN

The regional royals are continuing to conquer the fashion landscape and this time, it’s the turn of Saudi Arabia’s Princess Reema Bandar Al Saud who, together with Caroline Issa as creative consultant, has launched luxury leather brand Baraboux. Upping the style ante even further, the pair enlisted the help of Adam Katz Sinding, photographer and creator of successful blog Le 21eme, to shoot their latest campaign. For AW14 the collection features bags for the modern woman and her nomadic lifestyle, something that Princess Reema and Issa can both relate to. ‘I love what Baraboux stands for,’ says Issa. ‘They’re beautiful bags but I’m constantly travelling and always appreciate a bag that has enough pockets for me to compartmentalise.’ In keeping with Middle Eastern inspiration, It-girl and former editor-at-large of Vogue Turkey Ece Sükan was chosen as the stylish face of the campaign, adding a traditional edge to the stunning styles. Keep up with the jet set by tucking a Baraboux under your arm this season.

NAME TO KNOW DELPOZO

Last year saw Josep Font take the helm as creative director at Spanish house Delpozo. Founded in Madrid by designer Jesús del Pozo in 1974, the brand showcased its first collection under Font’s direction for AW13 and has quickly become the hottest ticket in town during NYFW. Known for creating beautiful, feminine pieces that combine the intricate techniques and hand-embroidery of couture, the RTW brand has now become known as prêt-à-couture. Taking inspiration from Font’s background in architecture, the collections showcase a variety of strong silhouettes. This season, he sent models down the runway in a host of structured designs, from coats and dresses to top-andtrouser two-pieces. The A-line shapes and parallel lines of these structural shapes are contrasted with soft, flowing embroidered chiffon dresses that evoke a more feminine feel. For the more contemporary woman, nipped-in waists add an old-world touch of glamour. With such strong support behind the new direction of Delpozo, we predict a continuous rise to the top for the atelier and its creative director.

Image courtesy of Adam Katz Sinding

INSIDER

Style

Josette Awwad in her home, wears Dior throughout.

S t y l i s h L

Josette Awwad Safieddine, PR and Communications Director at Christian Dior

Hailing from Lebanon and residing in Dubai, Josette Awwad Safieddine incorporates her personal style throughout both her home and working wardrobe – which, as PR extraordinaire for Christian Dior, is just as stylish as you would imagine. After inheriting her sophisticated taste from her mother, Josette sets similar standards in her love for fashion, jewellery, art and more.

In general, I opt for a trend. I always look for small details, be it a cut or shape – something that makes the piece different.

Today you’re wearing pieces from the autumn winter 14 Dior collection; what made you fall for this black dress in particular? I always look for pieces that have something different and this has such beautiful detailing. When I saw it on the runway I knew this was a piece I’d want to have and keep, always.

What differences do you look for in workwear in comparison to your outfit choices at the weekend? During office hours I like to look more formal, so I wear Dior pieces that are casual yet still work for the evening. At the weekend I will always go for something casual, usually jeans, and wear it with flats.. Anything that is easy and practical as I’ll be with my daughter.

How do you tend to shop?

Are you driven by your emotions when choosing outfits?

How has your style evolved recently? I’m a big fan of skirts and dresses these days. I used to be a huge fan of jeans though - I’d take a pair and style them in a way to make me look glamorous and fancy.

INSIDER

Style

If I’m going to buy a dress for a special occasion, then yes. I think the reason that women pack too many suitcases when they travel is because our style depends on our daily mood. Dressing, for me, always reflects the way I feel on that day. What’s your preferred colour palette? I’m a big fan of black but I also like purple and fuchsia. I like to contrast colours. You can always see me in very strong colours or you may see me in black at times. Are there certain pieces you always turn to Dior for? Yes, if I’m looking for something remarkable and feminine. I’ve always been a fan of Dior even before I started working for them. I have so many pieces that I will definitely keep forever - especially my evening dresses and Bar jackets – I can’t wait to see my daughter Jude wearing them in the future. What fashion memories do you have from your childhood? I always watched my mother as I was growing up. She would go to Paris and London to buy pieces and then sell them in Lebanon so I was always surrounded by beautiful clothes. Even now in my office it’s the same. I’d watch my mother taking care of her hair, nails, make-up – all beautifully done. I think everything I got; I got from her. What do you like to invest in? I’m a big fan of jewellery and watches – but I never wear too much. Sometimes I just stick to specific pieces but if I have an evening event then I’ll wear one or two maximum. I love art and I have a specific taste when it comes to the pieces I would want to buy. I try to balance between budget and taste - it’s difficult, but I keep trying. Where is your favourite place in the world and why? Lebanon - my home country. Against all the odds and the challenges [the country faces], I feel so alive, yet so worried for its future.    Where will you be spending the winter holiday and with whom? In Lebanon surrounded by friends and family, of course. With my step kids, my daughter and my husband.    What’s the best thing about spending time at home? Taking the time to be around your family, talking and listening to each other and sharing a full day with no interruptions from the busy outside world. What’s the greatest piece of advice you’ve ever received? Don’t sweat the small stuff. And it’s all small stuff. What books will you be reading over the next few months? Lots of fashion, jewellery and timepiece books focused on history and know-how.    What’s on your bucket list for 2015? It’s a long list - no bucket can fit my plans! It’s a new year and a new challenge; which will mostly include happiness and success.

FEATURE

Society

The year 2014 was the year that ladies took the lead. The entertainment industry’s twenty-something females owned the red carpet, rolled in millions and graced many a magazine cover. We discuss the stars of the generation who are proving more than their worth, while they’re still young.

very time she steps in front of the camera she makes a million dollars. Cara Delevingne, the 22-year-old British model, can be seen everywhere. Working her way up from ASOS to DKNY and Burberry, not forgetting her three British Vogue covers and Model of the Year award – she’s achieved all of this in only four short years. She’s the face of Burberry Beauty, Maybelline and YSL’s cosmetics campaigns. She models for Mulberry, La Perla and DKNY. She has a close relationship with Fendi – from exclusively walking their shows to starring in their latest campaigns and she’s even made her acting debut in British television drama Timeless. Oh, and she’s cemented her place in

Blake Lively

Forbes’ Highest Paid Model List by bringing in an estimated $3.5 million over the past year. But she’s not the only one. Yes, Cara’s a name that needs no introduction but 2014 has witnessed a host of females who are achieving more than most. Twenty-something women are navigating a complicated and competitive world by thriving with multiple strings which are constantly added to their bow. Cara’s best friend and celebrity buddy Rihanna has just trademarked her own name. The 26-yearold Barbadian beauty is no stranger to the fashion arena but with the recent trademark of her surname Fenty, many have speculated that she’s about to enter the fashion designer realm. With a string of chart-topping hits, her über successful Diamonds tour, endorsements with Vita Coco, Nivea and her fragrance Reb’l Fleur, she earned $43 million this year according to Forbes. Not to forget she graced Balmain’s campaign, designed collections for River Island and collaborated with MAC Cosmetics. To top it all off she was named by Tom Ford as his muse and took home the prestigious Fashion Icon Award at the Council of Fashion Designers of America. It’s a wonder she has anytime to sleep, eat and repeat the basic necessities of life. But the idea of a generic ‘basic life’ is not what these women lust after.

Image courtesy of Pascal Le Segretain, Getty

the Ladies Who LEAD

FEATURE

Society Image courtesy of Dimitrios Kambouris, Getty

Cara Delevigne, Rihanna, Stella McCartney, Kate Bosworth and Reese Witherspoon

They’re cramming it all in during their twenties. They’re ticking boxes most people haven’t even thought to achieve before the age of forty. Take American actress Blake Lively who has just announced her pregnancy. At 27-years-old this may not seem young to have a child but for her generation, it increasingly is. While she first shot to fame as the young beauty Serena van der Woodsen in hit series Gossip Girl, Lively always craved a career on the big screen. She went on to star in films such as The Green Lantern and the Private Lives of Pippa Lee. In 2012 she married fellow actor Ryan Reynolds and moved to New York City. She’s now the face of L’Oréal and has also just launched her online venture Preserve (part blog, part digital monthly magazine) that seeks out people all over America who make unique things. And next year she will welcome a child – the makings of a woman who has it all. When women achieve so much so young, the pitfall of failure can sometimes be inevitable. And for these women, the world will happily watch them while they fall. So is it all too much? Some seem to think so. Only last month, nude photos of 100 female celebrities (Rihanna included) were stolen and published by hackers on website 4chan. Also included in the list of victims was 24-year-old Oscar

FEATURE

Society

Jennifer Lawrence Image courtesy of Paul Fenton, Corbis

winning actress Jennifer Lawrence. This year she was named as the second-highest-paid actress in Hollywood, only falling short to Sandra Bullock, making her the youngest actress in the top ten. Lawrence’s climb started in 2010 when she starred in the film Winter’s Bone and was subsequently nominated for an Academy Award for Best Actress. Following roles included Silver Linings Playbook (which saw her win an Oscar, making her the second-youngest Best Actress winner ever), American Hustle and The Hunger Games film series. With such huge successes behind her, of course she was a target. These successful young women are paying a price for having a voice, having highly commendable achievements and carving their own careers. ‘Just because I’m a public figure, just because I’m an actress, does not mean that I asked for this,’ Lawrence told Vanity Fair. ‘It is not a scandal. It is a sex crime,’ she said with sheer disgust. Other young female celebrities reacted to the scandal. Lawrence’s fellow actress and friend Emma Watson tweeted to her millions of followers: ‘Even worse than seeing women’s privacy violated on social media is reading the accompanying comments that show such a lack of empathy.’ The 24-year-old British actress – who is globally known for her rise

FEATURE

Society Image courtesy of Anthony Harvey, Getty

Emma Watson

to stardom thanks to the role as Hermione Granger in Harry Potter – is speaking for her generation. Watson, who has an estimated net worth of $54 million dollars according to Forbes, has proven a huge success from the get-go. She recently starred in Stephen Chbosky’s film adaptation The Perks of Being a Wallflower and Darren Aronofsky’s epic Noah. This year she became the UN Women Goodwill Ambassador. Yet ironically after making a flawless speech in New York City this September in support of the HeForShe campaign where she argued that gender discrimination harms both men and women, she was met with utter sexism. The following day a few anonymous individuals created a website hurling sexual threats towards her. And the abuse didn’t end there: a fiveday countdown was created, threatening to release nude images of her too. Young success comes with a high price, especially if you’re female. All of the leaked photos (give or take one or two) included images of women young female celebrities. As these young ladies rise together, some men feel threatened and will use stolen images of their naked bodies to prevent them from staying in control. Breaking free from traditional conventions, their red carpet mannerisms have spoken volumes over the past year. From Jennifer

‘I think women are scared of feeling powerful and strong and brave sometimes.’ - Emma Watson

Lawrence’s serial photobombing at the Oscars to face-grabbing Emma Watson at Dior’s SS15 show, they don’t compose themselves to be anything but real. Take Cara’s non-stop extreme facial expressions and Rihanna’s fashion statement ensembles as concrete examples. Yet while the days of young women gracing the red carpet in a way that marks maturity beyond their age are a thing of the past, they still have to deal with adult issues during their early twenties - an era in which a young person should be allowed to grow and develop into adulthood with a lack of scrutiny. What will be left for them to achieve in the future?. Emma Watson once said: ‘I think women are scared of feeling powerful and strong and brave sometimes.’ If 2014 proved anything, it’s that a generation of young women are anything but one-dimensional. With a wave of new feminism occurring across society, it’s only inevitable that these ladies will be leading the way.

Snapshot

Memoir

Karlie Kloss, Oscar de la Renta and Daria Strokous close his SS15 show in New York

the legacy of

De la Renta With a career that spanned half a decade, Oscar de la Renta was a true force in American fashion. In retrospect of his glittering career we celebrate his legacy, and discover the story to his sensational rise to prominence.

ailed from the Dominican Republic, De la Renta began his career at eighteen, enrolling at the Academy of San Fernando in Madrid studying fine art whilst sketching dresses in his spare time. His first foray in fashion saw Beatrice Cabot Lodge, the debutante daughter of the U.S. ambassador of Spain, photographed on the cover of Life magazine in 1956 wearing one of his designs. Ignited by the speed of the fashion press De la Renta was soon recruited as a discipline of Cristóbal Balenciaga, progressing as couture assistant at the house of Lanvin under Antonio Castillo in Paris. Championed by Diana Vreeland, editor of Harper’s Bazaar US, De la Renta was persuaded to move to New York in 1963 with the promise of a bigger future working under Elizabeth Arden. Two years later De la Renta transitioned to Jane Derby, launching his own eponymous label after her death in 1965. It was during the 60s where De la Renta found his footing. His designs were beloved for their glamorous aesthetic and understanding of cocktail culture, favoured by Jackie Onassis, wife of then President John F. Kennedy. Harking back to our exclusive interview with De la Renta in issue 6 of MOJEH, he commented on the importance of his customer. ‘Women have evolved in unbelievable ways since I started designing clothes. As a designer I try to understand that woman, understand her aspirations and her dreams. I always say that elegance is a discipline of life.’ In 1969 De la Renta became an official citizen of America. As a fully-fledged New Yorker, he was given the opportunity to exemplify his couture mindset passed on by Balenciaga. ‘Working for Cristóbal Balenciaga was a tremendous learning experience for me. I observed

Snapshot

Memoir

Oscar de la Renta in 1993

how he constructed garments first hand,’ he reminisced. ‘Balenciaga was a great designer because he was like an architect. He used to say ‘you don’t have to have a body, I will make one for you.’ For a decade he showcased his skills designing haute couture for the iconic label Balmain, becoming the first American (and Dominican) to hold a major position at a French fashion house. Unique to De la Renta was his ability to translate clothes intended for the catwalk onto prolific figures. Of his many feats, dressing the presidential first ladies from Betty Ford, Nancy Reagan, Hillary Clinton, Laura Bush to Michelle Obama, whose long-standing avoidance towards his label finally caved a month before his death, embodied the power he possessed over the industry. As a ready-to-wear designer for four decades, he began to diversify his label into bridal wear in 2006, producing iconic gowns for iconic women. One of his most recent and prolific creations appeared in the wedding of Academy Award winning actor George Clooney and human rights lawyer Amal Alamuddin in Venice, Italy. Alamuddin was swathed in 14 yards of appliquéd Chantilly lace and ivory tulle, complete with hand-embroidered bodice. It was a gown fit for a princess, the epitome of Hollywood glamour. Whatever the trend, wherever the season transported fashion, De la Renta’s designs were constructed magnificently, morphing the female form with an elegant ease and natural restraint. He took it upon himself to shape the modern woman’s view of couture, introducing a new relevance to a customer that was ever adapting and financially limitless. He commented that couture ‘was a craft that was made for the very few and the very privileged.’ He continued, ‘you are exercising your talent

Snapshot

Memoir

Models backstage during the Oscar de la Renta SS12 show

Oscar de la Renta in the 1970s

The New Bloom, Photographed by Joseph Paradiso and Yuki Tseng, MOJEH Issue 13

Snapshot

Memoir Oscar de la Renta in the 1970s

and fantasy without holding back, but there is still a consideration in mind.’ This thoughtful process was noticeable in his wildly successful collections at Balmain, a house now powerfully helmed by bright young thing, Olivier Rousteing. De la Renta was after all a strong advocate of new talent. From 1973 to 1988 he twice served as President of the Council of Fashion Designers of America. Over the span of his illustrious career he collected two American Fashion Critic’s Awards and was honoured with a CFDA Lifetime Achievement Award in 1990. His philanthropic efforts helped construct a school near his hometown in Punta Cana that led to the Dominican Republic honouring him with the Order of Merit of Duarte, Sanchez and Mella as well as the Order of Christopher Columbus, praising him as a pioneer of his time. De la Renta’s consideration of the modern woman catapulted his designs into the 21st Century; replacing women of political power for silver screen sirens, pop icons and fashion mavericks. ‘To see a celebrity or icon wearing a dress I have created, it is the highest compliment,’ noted De la Renta. His name became a firm fixture in the cult Sex and the City series, with Carrie Bradshaw (Sarah Jessica Parker) donning a spring/ summer 2004 flute-skirted dress in a famous scene during the show’s final season. Parker’s admiration for De la Renta saw his designs showcased to a wider, more considered fashion audience. Most notably at the ‘Charles James: Beyond Fashion’ Costume Institute Gala at the Metropolitan Museum of Art where Parker dressed in a monochrome black and white gown lovingly scrawled with the famous De la Renta signature.

From his extraordinary talent De la Renta understood the business of fashion and maintained the equilibrium of a brand so deeply rooted in American culture. The dialogue he shared with Galliano for his autumn/winter 2013 readyto-wear collection marked half a decade of designing clothes in New York. The collection incorporated heritage pieces in jacquards and toile prints, built to a crescendo of two silk faille ball gowns emblazoned with gold bullion embroidery that closed the show. ‘I think my Spanish heritage has a tremendous influence on my designs. I come from a place where a sense of life and colour is very important. I like things to be beautiful and exceptional, full of colour. I try to design clothes that make a woman feel bold,’ he said of his design process. In the pages of MOJEH, De la Renta’s designs shone for their incredible awareness of the female form. His creations, though heavily influenced by American aesthetics, exemplified the refined attitude of our readers. A concept De la Renta was well aware of. ‘I love the sensibility of the Middle Eastern woman. There is a sophistication in the culture that has existed for generations, they are incredibly elegant.’ Though few American labels have survived a designer’s passing, the Oscar De la Renta name intends to live on through British-born Peter Copping. His design aesthetic during a three-year tenure at Nina Ricci reflected the flashes of feminine brilliance associated with the Oscar De la Renta woman. As the new creative director for the brand, Copping will showcase his first collection in February under the lights of Park Avenue, hopefully with every intention of continuing the extraordinary legacy of New York’s sultan of suave.

Photo courtesy of Scott McDermott/Corbis

Snapshot

Memoir

Oscar de la Renta greets the crowd at the finale of his SS07 show in New York

in Society

Woman

The Billion

Dollar Woman It’s very rare that anyone gets to run a billion-dollar company. Rarer still when that individual happens to be a movie star and long acknowledged as one of the most beautiful and caring women around. Enter Jessica Alba.

and eliminating salt, sugar and processed ingredients from our diets. Having built her film career out of maintaining a fabulous figure, Alba has effectively turned the notion of a sex symbol on its head. She’s made a virtue out of healthy living and carved out a second career as a business executive while still pursuing her film career, having just starred in Sin City: A Dame to Kill For, reviving her role of the troubled stripper in a dystopian urban landscape. Not one to take a breather, she has another four films in the pipeline, most notably the romantic comedy How to Make Love Like an Englishman, co-starring Pierce Brosnan and Salma Hayek. Next year she will also be seen in Dear Eleanor, a road movie set during the Cuban missile crisis; Stretch, an action thriller opposite Chris Pine; and the adventure thriller Barely Lethal. Alba, named one of the Most Powerful Women Entrepreneurs in 2012 by Fortune Magazine, co-founded the company together with business partner Christopher Gavigan in 2011 with the intention of marrying homefriendly consumer goods with a feel-good social mission. She and her husband of six years, Cash Warren, live in Los Angeles with their two daughters, Honor, 6, and Haven, 3. Fred Allen / The Interview People

essica Alba is poised to see her ecofriendly household product firm - The Honest Company - become a billion dollar corporate entity when it goes public within the next several months. The business was born from an idea that Alba had to offer mothers an easy way of choosing babyfriendly products and other non-toxic household goods, ranging from lip balm to dish soap. What began as a tiny mail-order business has since grown into a thriving entity dominating the industry that is expected to generate $150 million in sales revenues this year alone. Yet for Alba, her success is firmly rooted in hard work, self-belief and a sense of social responsibility. ‘I never imagined how fast the business would grow although I knew that there were lots of mothers and parents like me out there who wanted safe and healthy products for their homes,’ Alba says. ‘Whatever success I’ve had, though, all comes down to discipline and hard work, values my parent and relatives taught me. And as a mother, your love for your children is so great that you want to give them the happiest and healthiest life you can. This company grew out of that heartfelt wish.’ Alba is also the author of a personal health manual, The Honest Life, and an ardent advocate of eating natural foods

Photo courtesy of Dennis Van Tine/Geisler-Fotopress/dpa/Corbis

in Society

Woman

in Society

What’s your daily schedule like? Lately it’s been pretty tough. There are days when I’ve been coming back home at three or four in the morning and I’ve still been getting up at seven to get the kids off to school. The company is taking off and there are a lot of decisions to be made. Plus I’ve been promoting Sin City so it seems like I’m rushing from one job to another. I keep telling myself I’m going to take some time off later this year. My husband has heard me say that before, though! Does your work pace ever place stress on your marriage? All couples face different kinds of stresses from their work andwe’re no different. But I’m very lucky to have an incredibly supportive husband and partner who’s always been so proud and supportive. He’s a fabulous man who makes my life so much easier and happier. You’ve mentioned in the past that you’ve grown closer over the course of your marriage? A couple’s relationship is like a deep friendship. We’ve built up a bond over many years. For me it’s been so important to have someone beside me with whom I can laugh; a man who makes me feel safe and secure when things look like they’re on the verge of disaster. I’m glad I have someone like that who reassures me and supports me.

Jessica, you’re doing triple duty as wife and mother, head of your own company and movie star. Are you trying to set a new standard for ambitious women? No, I think I’m living up to a standard set by a lot of strong women in my family. I’m also most proud of the fact that I’ve always spent a lot of time every day looking after my children rather than handing them over to a nanny or babysitter just to make my life easier. Family is such a huge part of Hispanic culture and women play a very central role. Working hard has always been a part of my mind-set and I’m very grateful for everything I’ve been able to accomplish and especially for being able to have a beautiful home life. My family has always occupied first place in my mind. Always.

Do you ever feel like you’re taking on too much at times? The hardest time for me came when Haven was born and looking after two children was much more exhausting than I imagined. I was also starting up my business and I needed to install a child’s play room in the office or it never would have worked out. I learnt a lot from raising Honor Marie (her first child) and I started to realise that you can’t be perfect and women shouldn’t put that burden on themselves. Even though I’m better at managing my time and delegating a lot of decisions, I always worry that I’m not spending enough time at home. I had to adjust to the fact that it was impossible to spend my days there but at least I would try to have my children with me at the office and if not, I would make it a point to come home and make dinner. Your life is always going to be evolving in terms of balancing your time that way and you just have to come up with good ways to do your work and still take care of your family. You have to stop punishing yourself by thinking that you can always do more because that just wears you down. Do you make a special effort to relax in the evenings when things become very stressful?

Woman

in Society

The more time I can spend with my kids, the less stressed I feel in life. They take me out of whatever mood I’m in and stop me thinking about work-related matters. I like to have Honor help me with breakfast or the cooking and I give her little things to do so she feels like she gets to help her mommy. I let her do things like cracking the eggs for breakfast and stirring stuff in bowls. She loves that and it reminds me of how I helped my own mother in the kitchen. What kind of food do you eat most often? We do a lot of traditional Mexican-American cooking. Tacos, tortillas, all of that. I try to buy fresh produce all the time at local farmers’ markets and then throw things together for dinner. It’s become both a philosophy of mine and a practical choice for ensuring that your family eats as healthily as possible. It’s not that hard to cut out processed foods and you will really feel better eating more natural foods with less fat and sugar and salt. You’ve said in the past that acting was something that came very naturally to you. How did that come about? I spent a lot of time alone living in my imagination. When I was growing up, I spent a lot of time in the hospital. I had pneumonia, I had kidney surgery, I had an appendectomy and even my tonsils taken out. I didn’t have many friends so a lot of that time in hospital was spent by myself creating this fantasy world of my own. I would imagine myself as a superhero or some character in another time or place. Those experiences were part of my playacting universe and that’s what led to my wanting to become an actress. Acting was a natural evolution. Would you like your children to follow you into acting one day? If that’s their choice and dream, I’m fine with that. I just want them to grow up happy and well-schooled so that they can have all options in life open to them. When I started working as an actress, I was worried a lot about money because my parents had to struggle doing a lot of part-time jobs. I wanted to work as much as I could and become as successful as possible, simply to give myself financial security and never have to worry about money. I’m very proud that I’m able to give that kind of security to my children and I’ll be happy with whatever course they want to take in life. You’ve always had a fierce sense of your own independence. What kind of life lessons do you hope to impart to your two daughters? Young women today are a lot more independent and aware of their possibilities

than when I was growing up. Society is opening up more and more opportunities for women although we still have to fight for our place in the world. That’s one of the things about The Honest Company that I’ve tried to talk about to the women I’ve been meeting at conferences over the past year. We should all be proud of being ambitious and wanting to lead very full lives. A lot of it is just about willpower and not giving up on yourself. If you ever feel down or under pressure, how do you fight that? I do a lot of yoga. I also love putting on the wildest hip hop music I can find and dancing all-out in my living room or kitchen. My eldest daughter always starts to laugh when I do that.

76 Photographed by Amber Gray

Let your love of winter

FASHION

bloom, be reborn before the year is out

IN FOCUS

Fashion

BRIGHT YOUNG THINGS Colour ruled the runways this season so itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no time to start getting shy on us. Wallflowers can bring out their wild side with a slick of lipstick and a bright bag or for the fashion fearless, headto-toe is the only way to go.

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IN FOCUS

Fashion

WONDER WOMAN Follow in the footsteps of fashion’s superheroes and let a cape take pride of place in your wardrobe. With its ‘throw-on-and-go’ factor, the stylish autumn staple cuts dressing time in half. Valentino provides us with a new LBD so make sure you accessorise accordingly with pieces that scream ‘look-at-me’.

Giovanna Battaglia

IN FOCUS

Fashion

FAUX-FASHION Fur is back and there’s no reason not to invest in a faux version like Shrimps’ dark essential. Keep legs warm and protected as the cold air hits with leather and boots – chic winter essentials that stay staples for a reason. Moody hues may seem solemn but in this case, they’re stylishly so.

Carine Roitfeld

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Fashion

IN FOCUS

MOSAIC MAGIC When itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s time to give your LBD a well-deserved rest, take inspiration from the style stars that know how to mix and match their prints and cuts. Temperley London provides eye-catching prints that will do anything but blend in and such an outfit calls for simplicity when accessorising, so look to gold and Midnight Romance when adding adornment.

Caroline Byron & Kate Bosworth

Fashion

IN FOCUS

CINDERELLA STORY As the holiday season gets into full swing and the new year approaches, it’s time to choose a glamorous gown to bring in 2015. Take inspiration from the red carpet and deck yourself in jewels that will sparkle all night long. When the clock strikes twelve, it’s time to grace the ballroom floor.

Diane Kruger

woman

Mojeh

Journey of

a Woman Sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s world-renowned for dancing at Studio 54, living the American dream and, of course, her iconic wrap dresses. As she prepares for the release of her honestly detailed memoirs The Woman I Wanted To Be, we speak to Diane von Furstenberg â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the designer, the brand, the philanthropist and the woman. 88

woman

Mojeh Image courtesy of Thos Robinson/Stringer, Getty

t’s in her wavy curls, those seductive eyes, that figure-hugging dress and most importantly, it’s in her words. Diane von Furstenberg speaks to females in every way. ‘Women inspire me and I design to inspire them’, she says. It’s been forty years since the creation of the infamous wrap dress and like Diane; the dress is still a hit with women everywhere. ‘We have achieved so much but so much is also the same: women are strong. I encourage them to be the woman they want to be. Those two things will never change,’ proclaims Diane. Decades later and von Furstenberg’s own fashion fairytale is as much-loved as ever. Arriving on the shores of New York City in 1969, she and her then husband (whom she married at age 22), Prince Egon von Furstenberg came to set up a new life, baby in tow. But as a free spirited Belgiumborn daughter of Auschwitz survivor Lily Nahmias, Diane wasn’t going to be content playing the housewife and European Princess. She even once famously told Oprah: ‘I didn’t know what I wanted to do but I knew the kind of woman I wanted to be – an independent woman who drives

her own cars and pays her own bills.’ Having designed the wrap dress in 1972, she began to pave the way for her career as a designer. Fame and fortune quickly followed and by the tender age of 28 she was worth nearly $65 million. By 30 she was gracing the cover of Newsweek. A memoir aptly named after that conversation with Oprah, The Woman I Wanted To Be is due to be published at the end of this year and having lived such a varied and vast life, we can’t wait to unravel the details within. ‘I am at an age where I feel ready to look back at my full life and share some of what I’ve learned from that life,’ she says. At the age of 67, she still looks fabulous. With her glistened tanned skin and hollowed cheekbones Diane is simply striking. ‘I also address my business, living the American dream and surviving lots of ups and downs. I hope that by being honest, I can inspire other women to look at their lives honestly as well. Every woman that is honest in telling her story is an inspiration to others’, she says. Having endured lots of ups and downs over her lifetime, von Furstenberg’s story

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Mojeh

90 Photographed by Peter Lindbergh

is as honest as she. Having lost her way in business during the 1980s - she moved to Paris to flee from bankruptcy - she divorced and then remarried in 2001, this time to media mogul Barry Diller. Here she set up Salvy, a French-language publishing house and for the next few years she turned her back on design and began publishing books. It wasn’t until she reached her 50s that she embarked on one of the most successful comebacks within the world of fashion by starting over in 1997. ‘I have learned my own weaknesses. I have never been a great manager so I make sure that I have people on my team who are,’ she admits. Her positive mindset is one of her greatest assets and it appears to be unfaltering. ‘The best thing about ageing is that you have a past…you make mistakes and you have successes but you learn so much from the life you have lived’, she says. In an industry with youth at the epicentre,

von Furstenberg looks to her past, age and wisdom to define her future. In 2005, the Council of Fashion Designers of America presented her with a lifetime achievement award and the following year she was made president. When pressed about the industry’s lust for youth and tendency to shun ageing, she says: ‘I think we have made some progress, but not enough. In my role as president of the Council of Fashion Designers of America I have helped to establish age limits for runway models and guidelines on how late the youngest models are allowed to work. Diversity of all kinds is important in fashion though and there is still so much work to be done.’ Her resilience alone is utterly inspirational. Working towards a better world for women is at the top of von Furstenberg’s to-do list. ‘Investing in women is one of the most powerful ways we can transform the world,’ she proclaims. This year she stood behind

woman

Mojeh Diane von Furstenberg in Abu Dhabi at The Galleria, Al Maryah Island.

Facebook COO Sheryl Sandberg’s Ban Bossy campaign which discourages calling girls ‘bossy’ and instead, tells them they have leadership potential. Of course, having a natural born leader behind such a movement is a perfect fit. Von Furstenberg is giving back: her time, her expertise and her voice. ‘I am very involved with an organisation called Vital Voices that empowers women leaders around the globe. These women are fearless and they are working tirelessly to better the lives of others’, she says. Vital Voices is a non-governmental organisation that trains and empowers women around the world, giving them the opportunity to be leaders with a voice. These women ‘have the passion and the courage. It’s important that they are given the guidance and resources to achieve their goals,’ she enthuses. Since 1997, the organisation has already mentored over 14,000 women from Africa, Asia, Latin America, the Caribbean and the Middle East. Keen to build on these philanthropic attributes, the Diller-von Furstenberg Family Foundation was set-up in 1999, managed by von Furstenberg’s son, Alexander (he is also a director and partner for the DvF brand). The foundation provides support to various NGOs and women with Diane exclaiming with outright passion: ‘I am in a place where I can give back to the communities who gave so much to me; the fashion community, New York City… but more than anything I want to empower women in everything I do. Through fashion, through mentoring and through

philanthropy, it is something I think about every day’. Both von Furstenberg’s husband and daughter, Tatiana, play active roles in the foundation and it is evident in both her words and actions that she is a woman’s woman. Females are at the forefront of all her endeavours, from philanthropy right through to design. At the helm of her business - that is more successful now than ever with 85 stores worldwide – von Furstenberg shows no signs of slowing down anytime soon. The DvF autumn winter 14 collection consists of designs from another era. In light of the 40th anniversary of the signature wrap dress, the collection plays homage to the iconic creation while the start of the year witnessed the launch of ‘Journey of a Dress’ - the exhibition and retrospective of the frock that made her fortune. It would of course only seem appropriate to dedicate her latest offering to it. ‘The collection is called Bohemian Wrapsody and is inspired by the Ballets Russes. I imagined a glamorous vagabond dancing from place to place and always looking very chic…she is a free spirit and she is wearing the most beautiful prints and colours: finely drawn rose prints, poppy reds and cobalt blues,’ she says. British beauty Karen Elson opened the show in a breath-taking dress covered in a black and gold dart-design (similar to the original, of course). It is these dresses cut for the working woman that have always been a synonymous part of DvF’s oeuvre and will be for years to come. This

woman

Mojeh

Karlie Kloss in DVF autumn/winter 14

winter she gave us stars, clouds, rosebuds, swirls and darts while hemlines of dresses alternated from shirt to floor-sweeping gowns in sheer fabric. The colour palette equally moved from rich sombre shades to in-your-face brights in an eye-catching colour palette. Reflecting the demeanour of a confident woman, these are clothes that sit with ease and co-exist with the body to streamlined perfection. This level of confidence has transcended over into 2015 where Diane found inspiration from the French Riviera.. ‘Our Riviera collection was inspired by the easy glamour of the Côte d’Azur in the 1950s…

lots of gingham on chiffon and painterly floral prints inspired by Picasso and Matisse. Black and white is the base but there are rich colours, too: yellow, green, coral and Riviera blue’, she says. It’s fluid, fun and (as always) includes pieces that are ideal for the working woman. ‘And of course, lots of jersey and new wrap dresses!’ she concludes. The inspiration behind each and every collection will never falter. ‘The DvF woman knows who she is - she is confident, independent, bold, playful, humorous. She wants clothes that are easy and effortless. She is the woman she wants to be,’ she says. Diane is the proof that confidence and self-belief are the secret tools to success, seduction and self-promotion. ‘If you’re trying to slip out without waking a sleeping man, zips are a nightmare’, Diane replied when asked by a French journalist back in the 1980s how she came up with her famous wrap dress. As ‘Journey of a Dress’ celebrates 40 years of an iconic design and a fabulous frock, the DvF empire looks set to continue to inspire women. With an impending release of her memoir and recent collections that still capture the modern day woman, the spirit of von Furstenberg is unflappable. But what does the future hold for the woman who has it all? ‘My goal now is to leave my company in a great place so that it will last beyond me for my children and my grandchildren,’ she says with an essence of sentimentality. It is evident that family is paramount to her life and throughout her career she has openly referenced her mother’s strong influence on her upbringing: a woman who survived the Holocaust and instilled deeply rooted values within her daughter. Now, von Furstenberg shares this wisdom, her leadership skills and unwavering fearlessness with women around the world. When prompted for the greatest piece of advice she’s ever received: ‘my mother always told me that fear is not an option,’ she recalls. In true inspirational spirit, Diane von Furstenberg looks to the future with fearlessness. Oh, and a great dress, of course.

highlights

Mojeh

On The

Wish List The Marché bag by Nina Ricci

he is accustomed to luxury, lusts after quality and has an unwavering taste for elegance. The Nina Ricci woman knows style when she sees it. Hand carried for a ladylike allure or strung over the shoulder for practicality, the Marché bag by Nina Ricci is the must-have accessory this winter. Whether it’s crafted from classic calfskin, with suede detailing or from multi-coloured leathers of python or elaphe, this piece of arm candy will carry you from day into night with understated ease. Taken from Nina Ricci’s AW 14 collection, the Marché adapts to the contemporary woman’s daily needs. Highlighting a chic silhouette, it adds a touch of refinement to a more relaxed style while keeping its element of elegance – perfect for the modern-day woman. As the autumnal mood transcends into winter, this latest Itbag will add simple sophistication to any ensemble.

BanquET

Fashion

Cast

Away Why not escape the winter to an island far away where you can relax on sandy white shores below exotic palm trees? Sip on coconut water while you sun yourself in Eres’ chic swimwear and turn up the glamour at night with Erdem’s glitzy number. It’s time to shine under the tropical stars.

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Spender Presents don’t buy themselves, you know, so why not treat yourself to a shopping vacation in one of Europe’s ice laden cities this holiday season? Wrap up warm as the temperature drops and protect your head and hands with Balenciaga’s cosy gloves and a glamorous yet floppy hat courtesy of Saint Laurent.

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Cool

Comfort As winter brings the prospect of a snowy retreat, be sure to keep it laid-back and glamorous. After a day on the slopes, slip into Diorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s trendy trainers for a comfortable take on the sequin trend and make the first run of the day with Chanelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s pearl and diamond watch on your wrist.

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Cocktail

Queen

The coming months will bring countless social events so make sure youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re ahead of the style game with a pre-prepped evening wardrobe. Whether you choose to go floor length in Alessandra Rich or champion the two-piece in Dubaiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s very own Dima Ayad, glamour is most definitely on the menu.

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Images courtesy of Louis Vuitton, photographed by Gerard Uferas

Journey

Fashion

Journey

Fashion Louis Vuitton family home in Asnieres

S t y l e

Decoding By marrying his own design encryptions with that of Louis Vuitton originals, Nicolas GhesquiĂ¨re stakes his claim on a new era for the famed fashion house.

Albert Kahn special order trunk and Nicolas GhesquiĂ¨re in the Louis Vuitton studio

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Floral motifs of AW14

The famous monograms and padlocks

AW14 earrings inspired by the original padlock and keys

Epi leather found at the leather workshop and used on the Petite Malle bags

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icolas Ghesquière’s Louis Vuitton girl sauntered down the runway in Paris’ Cour Carrée last March in a wardrobe of black leathers, soft caramels, staple silhouettes and oh, a whole lot of Louis Vuitton history. From mini trunks to shrunken down padlocks and keys, it was clear – even before a closer look backstage and then later on at the re-sees – Ghesquière’s first collection for the empire would nod toward the original codes of the 160-yearold fashion house. ‘The proud legacy. The inspiring history that looks to the future and to the world. The quest for authenticity and innovation. The desire for timelessness.’ These were just a few of the words left by Ghesquière for his audience at the AW14 show. As timeless XXX insignia delicately inspired prints and models held on tightly to shoppers cut from the age-old malletage fabric, we knew there was a story to be told. And so later in the year we travelled across to Asnières, a northwestern suburb of Paris, which houses the Louis Vuitton workshops and former family residences, to get a taste for the house’s history. Arriving at the maison is a treat in itself; culture and creativity seep out of its great walls, injecting the surrounding garden and its flora with life and colour. Inside presents itself as both a museum housing its history and a loving family home and fittingly it’s here that we first meet with Patrick-Louis Vuitton, a fifth generation direct descendant and great-great grandson to the original Louis. He is currently responsible for special orders from Asnières such as explorer trunks and musicians cases – ‘the absolute expression of Louis Vuitton’s savoir faire’ as he puts it. Having grown up in the house and starting his career as an accomplished craftsman in the workshop at just 22 years, he has a story or two to tell. ‘I was not born in a trunk but I might as well have been. I grew up in Asnières, a hop and a skip from the factory where I became an apprentice,’ says PatrickLouis Vuitton in Legendary Trunks. ‘I worked my way up the ladder at every post in the workshops. Finally I designed my first special order, a hi-fi trunk for a Japanese orchestra conductor.’ Floral motifs decorate the interiors – not too dissimilar from the seventies prints seen across Ghesquière’s skirts and dresses – and lavish stained glass windows add to the home’s deep history. Intermittent within the stained squares are small clear-glassed gaps, previously used by the family to look across to the workshops and its artisans residing just across the lawn. Renovated in 2005 but standing for more than 150 years, the workshop is home to the company’s luggage, bags, special orders and exceptional and exotic leather pieces. The maison distinguishes two types of special orders: ‘made-to-order’ and ‘custom-made’, re-interpretations of the permanent collections and bespoke, unique pieces respectively. ‘Unfortunately, there are no statistics that give the exact number of trunks

Journey

Fashion

made in our workshops over the last century and a half. Surely, the number is in the hundreds of thousands. They are scattered to the four corners of the globe. Some sleep in attics, others are in museums, others are still traveling,’ said PatrickLouis Vuitton. ‘Yes, the whole world came to Vuitton and placed its trust in us.’ Take just one step inside and the smell of leather, steel, wood and history fuels the air around you. One glance to either side - where locksmiths carve out the famous monograms and padlocks as the end credits to their trunks – it becomes clear that we’re on the same journey taken by Ghesquière before embarking on his first collection. ‘There are universal codes which belong exclusively to Maison Louis Vuitton. The objective was to reclaim them and to transform them into new territory,’ Ghesquière told the house. ‘I wanted to have lots of leather details both on the bags, of course, but also on the clothes.’ And like a storybook brought to life, these codes were reinvented throughout his collections, whether done apparently or delicately. Take the padlock and its key along with the V emblem belonging to the artisans of Asnières – for Ghesquière these formed singular earrings grazing model’s shoulder blades, later to become best sellers in the collection. Similarly, miniature trunks dangled as small gold necklaces - a gentle but charming nod toward the house’s core. As we wandered through the workshops and made our way up to the leather floor, the essence of the collection became more apparent. Epi leather – which formed the season’s popular Petite Malle bag along with some key shoes and accessories such as the oversized cuffs – was celebrated by the house for its robust nature and used in a number of their luggage pieces. Ghesquière fell for the material due to its light reflecting qualities, adding instant energy and allure to his own pieces. Digging even deeper into the house’s past, his miniature trunks also featured the XXX, an emblem adopted by the famous French philanthropist Mr. Albert Kahn in the early twenties to trademark his trunks. Malletage is also apparent – a diamond-quilting pattern which originally appeared on the inside of Louis Vuitton’s trunks and speaks volumes of the maison’s attention to detail. Ghesquière experimented with the fabric in mainly black and white, manipulating its original use for his collection by taking it outside of bags instead of in. This proved to be a successful move, with pieces becoming cult favourites and passing through to his next collections. Nicolas Ghesquière takes ownership of a new era for the French house by paying respect to the brand that gave him his biggest break yet while staying true to his own design identities, showcased previously at Balenciaga. It’s an era where two design worlds collide and DNA straddles old with new; custom with avant-garde. On our departure from Asnières, we question where Ghesquière might go next to decode Louis Vuitton’s history.

Diamond-quilting, pattern which originally appeared on the inside of Louis Vuitton trunks, featured on bags on the AW14 runway

Petite Malle XXX bag inspired by Albert Khan on the AW14 runway

Histroical trunks showing the Louis Vuitton S-Lock

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Emilio Pucci

Style

Whether you’re off to Europe’s snow-covered slopes or opting for a little Parisian chill, keeping warm this winter has never been so stylish. The shearlings and sheepskins of AW14 have a laidback allure that’ll be hard to resist.

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t may hail from a humble background but the shearling coat was brought back to the forefront this season as designer after designer opted to throw the textured winter warmer across bare shoulders and around striking silhouettes. Toasty long-haired shearling coats in a palette of muddy browns and muted tones took centre stage while contrasting brights added a stylish sidebar. Think classic styles with a twist in size and shape, this season bigger most certainly means better. On the catwalks, Miuccia Prada sent models out in bright shades of scarlet red and a purple haze while soft chalk tones added an unexpected element of romance to the new season superstar. From Gucci and Christopher Kane to Temperley London, subtle shades with a summer vibe were mandatory. For the more rebellious among fashion followers, Rodarte’s metallic shimmery coats with a shearling add-on will win more than a few fans. The flight jacket - the cooler cousin to the shearling coat - oozes a more feminine appeal with outstretched collars and a playful colour palette. Our pick of the season, look to Burberry for a decadent flower motif with a painterly aesthetic adorning its modest design. With a belted waist, sleek cut and sheepskin cuff, it’s perfect to take you from day to night in a cooler clime. This winter, shearling and sheepskin are not cuddly – they’re cool and cosy.

1. If über glamour isn’t your forte then turn to Emilio Pucci for an understated jacket. The khaki detail adds a casual element that is perfect for day-to-day winter dressing.

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Style

Sacai

Prada

2. When keeping out the cold is your mantra for the season, opt for an oversized throw. Puffy hybrids of shearling and leather - with taller than tall collars – will suffice your every winter whim.

3. Inject a colour palette worthy of an artist into your winter wardrobe with a little help from Prada. The only thing to do with brightly coloured shearling is express yourself.

4. With the exquisite essence of an English rose, soft chalk shades will add light to any day or night ensemble. It’s soft, feminine and fun – just what the season is all about.

Sonia Rykiel

Burberry Prorsum

5. Take one modest flight jacket, add some hand-painted prints and turn humble into high fashion. Right now it’s cool to be creative and casual.

6. Mongolian-esque furs in extreme proportions are not for fashion’s faint hearted. Pair with a simple ensemble and let the cosiness do the talking.

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me back Designers have been paying attention to the back in a big way over past seasons and for AW14 it’s the gentle curve of the spine that’s gaining full attention. Don’t look back in anything but lust. 108

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As she graced the red carpet and turned, all eyes were on her naked back. In 2005, American actress Hilary Swank wore a simple navy blue gown with one defining feature– it was backless. Designed by Guy Laroche for the 77th Academy Awards, Swank won an Oscar for her film role in Million Dollar Baby. To the world, it was she who looked a million dollars. A poll carried out in 2011 by The Telegraph newspaper announced the dress to be 16th greatest red carpet gown of all time. Since it first emerged in the 1920s, the backless dress has never strayed too far from the mainstream. Its mysterious allure constantly captivates both the wearer and its observers. Like day to night, sun to rain or winter to summer, a simple turn from front to back makes a shock transformation. It’s always an unexpected surprise. During the 1930s, the backless dress was worn by society’s elite to draw attention to tanned skin as a sign of their summers spent in exotic countries across the globe. It exuded wealth, taste and class. The autumn winter 14 RTW runway was laden with backless showstoppers as designers played with every type of bare-backed creation

possible. A structured crossover strap - fastened by two bulbous clips - was prevalent at Mary Katrantzou. Roberto Cavalli opted for two slim line straps in muted tones and glistening metallic double straps were on show at Prada. Designers played with showing small aspects of the back, allowing the mysterious to prevail. It was Emilio Pucci who laid the back bare right from the shoulders to the tip of the spine- a design not intended for a wilting wallflower. But it was the haute couture designs that truly ignited the trend with elegantly placed crossed straps in silk from Valentino and translucent fabrics from Alexis Mabille that ran across the back and onto the arms and are nearly naked to the untrained eye. Backless beauty came from Elie Saab; too, with his elegant, sophisticated and simple design – a classic creation for any woman who wants for a plunging backless gown, worthy of any A-list event. From the famously seductive Jessica Rabbit to the more demure Hilary Swank, the backless dress has had mass appeal for decades. As it transcends from season to season, our wonder never fails to cease and now its sensual and seductive yet sophisticated qualities are back and as beautiful as ever.

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FEATURE

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New Bohemia For autumn winter 14, designer after designer chose to evoke the ethereal attitude of Bohemia throughout their collections – this time with an added darkness. As the season pays homage to a practice, we discuss how to free your inner Bohemian in both style and spirit.

he floated down the runway in sheer fabric coloured in scandalous scarlet. Her movements were light, airy and soft – but with edge. Adorned across her billowing, floorsweeping gown were enchanting forest creatures and crafted blooms, her head covered by an oxblood fur hood. She was a mythical maiden. She was the new Bohemian. The hottest ticket of Milan Fashion Week, Dolce and Gabbana created a runway laden with fairytale fantasy for autumn winter 14. Enwrapped within a mythical forest full of creatures of seclusion and fantastical fashion, a dark undercurrent of a new Bohemian world came to light. It was in 1849 that the word Bohemian first entered mainstream language. Louis-Henri Murger, a starving artist, introduced the term in his play La Vie de Bohème in the city of Paris. He provided a label to the eccentrics of the world and socially unorthodox. It was for the poets, painters and dandies. Fast forward to the 21st Century and writer Laren Stover documents the life and culture of the style in A Bohemian Manifesto: A Field Guide to Living on the Edge. ‘What my book endeavours to communicate is that there is an esprit, a shared soul that connects all Bohemians regardless of type, country or era. Their commonality is clear; all true Bohemians embody courage, audacity and revolt, whether they’re ecological warriors, standing up to a repressive government, changing the landscape of art and literature or breaking fashion rules’, she says. Since its birth, Bohemia has never strayed too far from the sights of other creative types. ‘I love all the various nuances of Bohemians and have observed that there are five general kinds: Nouveau, Gypsy, Beat, Zen and Dandy,’ continues Stover. This world attracts those who want to rebel, escape or remove themselves from the constraints of society. Each decade upholds a literary figure, an artist or a high profile creative as a Bohemian. International fashion editor Brian Coats describes his first affirmation with the term: ‘I always think of the first true Bohemians as Virginia Woolf and her sister Vanessa in the early 20th Century. They came from an English family of privilege and had an artistic

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upbringing which encouraged an abandonment of bourgeois manners and disciplines - including style.’ Fashion’s playful love for the Bohemian trend is contradictory in itself - true Bohemians banish fashion, style and all of its rules. ‘Bohemians create their own style; they don’t buy it in a store or a mainstream fashion magazine because it isn’t for sale’, explains Stover. ‘They might be inspired by Victorian paintings, medieval art, old photographs or nature. That’s not to say if a Bohemian found him or herself in H&M, he or she wouldn’t be able to find something but it would be altered, styled and worn in such a way that no one would ever know where it was purchased’, says Stover. Their shopping habits counteract massmarket appeal, consumerism and buying into trends. ‘A true Bohemian will shop at a strange little boutique, flea market, thrift shop, second-hand store, the 99¢ store, dumpster dive or hit up their designer friends. They will sew or knit their own clothes, handdye clothing from plants they’ve picked, embroider things, and paint the edges of their shoes with red or silver, wear something from a great grandparent, silkscreen their own tee shirts (with their own artwork or a political message), wear sequins to the beach, vintage military clothes, change all the buttons, buy a sari or kimono on eBay or stock up on textiles while travelling in India, Nepal, China, etc. Bohemians have no fear of mixing patterns and textiles from different seasons, eras and countries on a whim’, describes Stover. They simply want to escape or repress the realities around them. As readers escape into a fairytale, they will encounter the good with the bad, the Bohemian against the ruler. Dolce & Gabbana gave us the ethereal essence of such stories and Alexander McQueen removed the idyllic innocence as Sarah Burton created a wild beauty: designs that were darker than dark. Like in a fairytale there was a striking juxtaposition: fabrics were played against each other. Burton paired black with white, soft broderie anglaise cloth with heavy handcut animalistic black bird feathers. Models took to the runway covered

FEATURE

Fashion

in overgrown moss and wild heather plants in dark purple while sunlight was non-existent and instead, the moon was illuminated. Darkness was the key to the sombre temper and fantastically fierce onset mood. This resurgence of Bohemia within fashion has been reinforced by our love and desire for true fantasy; the type associated with childhood. ‘We seek beauty that nourishes the imagination…that traipses through forests, meadows, enchanted lakes and secret gardens inhabited by ethereal beings and dark spirits, owls, foxes, magical swans’, Stover describes. ‘Diaphanous fabrics upon which float flowers, butterflies and birds. In short: fairytales. We all know that fairies can be mischievous, capricious, ethereal, otherworldly, enchanting, glamorous, helpful, beautiful, good or bad. They can be male or female, haggish or heavenly and shift shape. They are never ordinary’, says Stover. When the first Boho trend emerged in the noughties it was indeed a step away from ordinary. Celebrities like Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen were championing the look with Kate Moss and Sienna Miller leading the way across the pond. Ensembles included leatherbound pirate boots, less-is-more crochet tops and heavily embroidered bags. This time around the hippie-vibe has been completely eliminated. ‘The New Bohemia isn’t beat, beachy, floppy, hippie or down and dirty. It’s mystical, mythical, magical and elegant, even when it draws from darker fairytales and medieval inspiration; it’s fantasy fashion inspired by sorceresses and fragile heroines, wood nymphs, Renaissance and medieval maidens…the New Bohemia is more elegant, even when it’s homedyed or home sewn’, confirms Stover. This essence of elegance was fully optimised at Valentino. Roses, birds and nature in all of its glory adorned swaying fabrics. Butterflies floated across metallic-doused dresses and jewelled collars added that Bohemian edge. It was the romantic capes with embroidered species of the butterfly kingdom that captivated onlookers. Bundles of tulle encased silhouettes with a simple lightness. From navy blue to deep maroon, there was a touch of kind solemn. ‘We want to feel we have magic in us. We want glamour’, explains Stover. ‘Since they are dusk-to-dawn types, their influences are moonlight, glittering stars, mist, dew, frost, dark shadows and all things floral, mossy, leafy, medieval gold and cobwebbed’, describes Stover. The brand’s design duo Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli brought every girl’s fantasy to life on the runway. As 2014 ignites the trend, others will ask: Who is the New Bohemian? ‘Those souls who are living on the fringe of society’, explains Stover. ‘It’s a voluntary exile from the mainstream. Today’s Bohemians realise they

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may be the only vegan or macrobiotic at the family gathering at the French restaurant, risk public wrath when they choose homeopathic vaccines for their babies and be considered eccentric for sending snail mail in quirky calligraphy on homemade paper when they could easily email. They are outsiders, not afraid to dream daredevil poetic dreams or to express themselves creatively and in an original way. They love to break rules, of course’, she says. Today certain celebrities are already carrying off this whimsical trend with grace. Kirsten Dunst oozes Bohemian appeal with her less-is-more seductive fanciful touch while model Dree Hemingway is stunning with her tousled locks and a carefree whimsy long dress. ‘The Nouveau Bohemian will be buying trends while other Bohemians often make their own. I think anyone wearing it, however, demonstrates an elevated sense of fantasy. I like to think all these women are reading a fairytale or two and eating natural foods unpoisoned by pesticides’, says Stover. The main attraction to New Bohemia is confidence. Those who adopt the trend don’t really care what others think, and that’s alluring. ‘Alan Cumming is pretty Bohemian too’, muses Stover. ‘He painted his dressing room on Broadway a Vincent van Gogh yellow, calls it Club Cumming, grows rosemary and has created a magical salon-esque ambience. He serves homemade soup before his Cabaret matinee and throws free-spirited Campari parties at night’, she says. It’s all so footloose and fancy-free. When trends emerge or resurge we can usually find the starting point among society. The current political climate or societal undertakings influence fashion. Each season as models take to the runway, the message they’re evoking is much more than fabric. ‘Fashion never stops and can be pretty exhausting to keep up with’, explains Coats. ‘People want to slow down and escape and the Bohemian ideals of softer, typically rounder edges and a certain nonchalance is instantly appealing every few years. Tom Ford made a huge impact on the looks at Gucci and YSL when he took over those houses.’ It was during the sixties and seventies that Yves Saint Laurent himself lived the life of a Bohemian in Marrakech, Morocco. He found inspiration from the practice over and over again for his collections. This way of life enthralled him so intrinsically that he had his ashes scattered at the Majorelle Gardens (an artist’s landscape garden) in 2008 and today, designer Marc Jacobs is also finding solace in the same comforts. ‘I think the fascination with the look is an attraction to veer off course from what’s modern and quickly moving now – for example, the Marc Jacobs show,’ explains Coats. The main

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attraction is the level of escapism that Bohemia brings. ‘We need escapism. Fantasy. I admire the new Bohemians because they are ecologically conscious, kind to animals, have a fanciful aesthetic and create things’, explains Stover. ‘They are not rampant consumers - they react against consumerism and commercialism - but mostly in ways that create harmony. Bohemians have the courage to reject mainstream society: to follow an ideal and forsake praise and security. Bohemians seek the society of impossible beauty...an idealised world...utopia’, she says. What’s the secret to success when adopting the trend come winter? Pick one or two key elements and make it your own. Boost confidence. ‘And it’s always better for a woman to break up the look and wear it with her own personal style - a little goes a long way’, explains Coats. ‘Pair a major coat with a tank and jeans, a good shoe and jewellery or get a pair of outrageous coloured or embroidered pants and keep the rest simple.’ If you reach for multiple elements you’ll endure overkill. New Bohemia is also about subtly with a facet of functionality. Look to Michael Kors for that great one piece: a floor-length frock in a dream-like fabric. Or turn to Saint Laurent for a classic black biker jacket and pair it with seventies style flares. If you’re whimsical at heart then Erdem’s vivid prints set against black on dresses or oversized jumpers are perfect. This darker mood completely ignores ditsy florals altogether. Marni’s focus on duck feathers entwined in a groove across the front of a figure-hugging skirt is magical. Just add a little bit of whimsy to your outfit choice and enter the Bohemian company this season. ‘The essence of Bohemian life is self and spiritual expression. They conform to nothing. They don’t need what everyone else has to be fulfilled’, explains Stover. As designers opted to enter the Bohemian mantra for autumn winter 14, the trend is evoking much more than just a fluxing hippie vibe. Traditional Bohemians may be considered as wanderers or outcasts on the fringes of society but as the practice influences yet another emerging fashion trend, discovering your inner Bohemian has never been more apt.

Marni

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with Heart While her clothes are virtuous and tenacious, they remain energetic and fun - as is the woman who designs them and those who wear them. In a rare interview, we get to grips with both the serious and soft sides of Stella McCartney.

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think that I’m a fairly responsible person in an industry that is not known for being responsible,’ says renowned fashion designer Stella McCartney. ‘I guess I sort of stand out among my peers for that but I am also trying to challenge the industry.’ And it wouldn’t be unfair to suggest McCartney has been challenged all her life. Daughter of Paul and Linda McCartney, rockstar and photographer respectively, the forty-something designer grew up in a place fuelled by paradox and juxtaposition. Her father is one of the world’s wealthiest and most famous rock stars from 60s band The Beatles, yet she was raised on a farm in East Sussex and attended the local school as a child. While Stella was immersed in a creative environment fuelled by music, fashion, and freedom, she was instilled with the typical rock star mentality to enjoy life to its fullest. Yet her mother Linda, well known as an animal rights activist, sadly passed away to cancer when Stella was only 26. ‘I was brought up on an organic farm in the countryside,’ she says. ‘When it came to me having a career, starting a job and starting a fashion brand, I guess it wouldn’t have sat comfortably with me to be hypocritical. This was the starting point. The seeds were sown in my personal life and then they came into my business life.’ These complications present themselves in

her work, which tends to be characterised by hard and soft movements, where austerity challenges dishevelment. ‘It’s a fine line. I think I’m always interested in finding that moment; the balance of scales between masculine and feminine in fashion,’ she says. ‘It’s about finding the equilibrium so that it feels comfortable and natural.’ Take her most recent offering for winter. Models including Jourdan Dunn, Cara Delevingne and Katlin Aas paraded the runway in strictly tailored double-breasted coats, finished off with flatform brogues that were almost trainer-like in a look that straddled both confinement and vitality. Or how about the colour palette that began as harsh hue blocking and later bled into tie-dye and deconstructed grid work? ‘I want to celebrate energy and movement with a sophisticated, do-it-yourself attitude while playing on function and utility,’ she told us. ‘The collection was really about energy and fashion in general is supposed to be about having a good time. For me, the Stella woman is about celebration, feeling alive and free and colourful.’ It’s little surprise that her design methods lend themselves to contradiction when you look at her rise in the industry. After a short stint at Christian Lacroix, Stella trained under Edward Sexton on Savile Row and was later picked up

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by the powers that be at the Richemont group luxury giants Kering –she is reportedly making to creatively direct French label Chloé. You just nearly 3.5million pounds in profit annually and have to hear these two names and you certainly proving them all wrong while she does it. ‘I like to wouldn’t put the two together. But for Stella, the think I have shown the group alternatives; they’d two components - plus a degree from London’s never made a veggie shoe before I came along. Central Saint Martins and a graduate show that What we do influences people and hopefully that included catwalk appearances from Naomi will lead to positive change,’ she says. Campbell and Kate Moss – defined the early days Without question, Stella McCartney has already of her career. ‘I studied after school on Savile paved the way for positive industry change – in Row and tailoring has always been a huge part both principles and aesthetic – and ultimately of what I do; it’s in the DNA of the brand,’ she it’s her deep-rooted understanding of women says. ‘That apprenticeship taught me a huge that’s to be commended. ‘I want my designs to amount; from how to cut and construct a sleeve allow women to feel strong, feminine and sexy… to the importance of fabrics.’ not just have people notice the outfit but the Back to her earlier point of continually standing actual woman wearing it,’ she says. Fur, fame, out, even today when family and friends attempting to live out aside, McCartney knows her audience a ‘normal’ lifestyle – spending weekends in and offers something the country, meeting that very few other designers can industry friends, such Fur, fame, family and friends as Gwyneth Paltrow functional wardrobes and Liv Tyler, at lowthat offer both aside, McCartney knows strong silhouettes key restaurants with her audience and offers unkempt hair and a and a playful energy. pair of jeans and a Her SS15 collection something that very few other jumper – Stella still epitomises ease and designers can. unknowingly makes fluidity. Fuelled by her mark with every denim, silk and knits stride. ‘It doesn’t in modest shapes, the necessarily make looks flux between me any better; it fancy-free and flyjust means I have a away and towards the different point of view and I’m not willing to end, frills, patterns and supplementary fabrics compromise my ethics for a handbag or a pair are added. There’s that contradiction between of shoes,’ she argues. ‘I think you can still deliver calm and complex again - the same paradoxes as good a product if not better because it’s about that have followed the rock star daughter; ecothe creativity and not just about using the same warrior; Savile Row-trained; Chloé aficionado expected materials.’ her whole life. Not to mention that she is also Forever challenging the system, her principled a wife and mother to four young children. ‘The collections are famously free from fur and animal Stella McCartney woman is quite complicated I skin, a decision that many industry big-shots guess,’ – complicated in the sense that she leads questioned from the start. After stepping down a 360-degree lifestyle and requires a wardrobe at Chloé in 2001 to prepare for her own line, it’s to match. But Stella makes things simpler. ‘I widely acknowledged that not everyone in the don’t know if it comes back to being a female industry supported her decision. Almost fourteen designer but I do put love into everything I do. years later and at the helm of a colossal company I hope you can feel that in the product,’ she – one she shares joint equal partnership with says. A little strict and a little soft - that’s Stella.

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Winter s Palace â&#x20AC;&#x2122;

Photographed by Amber Gray Styled by Guillaume Boulez

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Double silk crepe dress and metal headband, all by CHANEL

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Fantasy tweed jumpsuit, lame silk toile pants, cotton and polyester bolero, suede shoes and enamel costume jewellery, all by CHANEL

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Fantasy tweed dress, suede shoes and metal headband, all by CHANEL

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Printed muslin dress, satin shoes and enamel costume jewellery, all by CHANEL

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Printed muslin dress, printed cotton voile trousers, lambskin top, satin shoes and enamel costume jewellery, all by CHANEL

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Iri Georgette printed blouse and trousers, cashmere cardigan, satin shoes and enamel costume jewellery, all by CHANEL

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Glitter tweed jacket and trousers, suede shoes and enamel costume jewellery, all by CHANEL

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Viscose and polyamide dress and trousers, satin shoes and enamelled custom jewellery, all by CHANEL

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Models: Fanny Fournier at Marilyn Paris Sophie Gordon at Women Management Paris Hair stylist and Make-up artist: Mykel Renner Production assistant: Production Guru Morocco Director of Photography: Julian Bernstein Location: The Royal Mansour in Marrakech Production: Louis Agency

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drea m i Photographed by Amber Gray Styled by Guillaume Boulez

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Coat and veil, ARMANI PRIVE

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Dress, CHANEL HAUTE COUTURE

Dress, boots and ring, ATELIER VERSACE

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Dress and jacket, JEAN PAUL GAULTIER HAUTE COUTURE

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Dress, ULYANA SERGEENKO HAUTE COUTURE | Headdress, FOREVER GLAM

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Jumpsuit, ALEXIS MABILLE HAUTE COUTURE

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Dress and shorts, CHANEL HAUTE COUTURE

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Dress, shoes and bracelets, CHRISTIAN DIOR HAUTE COUTURE

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Dress, shoes, stockings and earrings, MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA HAUTE COUTURE | Vintage gloves, stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own

Dress and headdress, SCHIAPARELLI HAUTE COUTURE

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Dress and veil, ARMANI PRIVE

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Dress, STEPHANE ROLLAND HAUTE COUTURE

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Model: Niina at IMG Models Hair stylist: Nabil Harlow at B Agency Make-up artist: Megumi Zlatoff at Calliste Agency Photographer’s assistants: Julian Bernstein and Gabriel Pruvost Stylist’s assistants: Noemie Ferre and Thibaut Marais Make-up artist’s assistant: Maki Ihara Local production: Olivier Herold Production: Louis Agency

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Men’s

Double

The double-breasted coat has long been a champion of menswear collections and this season, designers have adopted traditional silhouettes to revive the heritage naval reefer jacket with a 21st century spin. Revisiting archetypal menswear classics is a common thread in men’s fashion. With its sharp linearity and overtly masculine cuts, military styles have served as inspiration for designers season after season. While outerwear offerings on fall runways are nothing new, menswear designers have extended the boundaries with classic silhouettes in a bid to showcase innovation. This season it was the double-breasted coat that dominated the catwalks, appearing throughout AW 14 collections across the fashion capitals. The double-breasted coat originated from traditional marine uniforms, equipped with a four, six or eight button configuration andstylistically, the typical design features a peak lapel and wide collar. Advocated by heritage brands from the likes of Giorgio Armani, Lanvin and Valentino, the style has been an integral fixture of many-a designers’ collections. Commonly found in overcoat silhouettes; the pea coat and trench coat are popular examples; AW 14 transported the doublebreasted coat into new terrains. While some designers maintained tradition with classic eight-button numbers take Burberry Prorsum’s camel caban number or Louis Vuitton’s alpaca-lined overcoat - others injected a youthful spirit with fresh techniques. Andrea Pompilio elaborated on the pomp and pageantry of military dress, updating coats with liquorice stripes and silk scarf pocket squares. Kris Van Assche, on the other hand, elevated traditional silhouettes with graphic applique while Etro served up a playful and eclectic mix of tweed, gingham and curlicue tapestry prints. Textile was also a defining factor throughout this season’s double-breasted jackets. Tweed was most popular, found in the collections of Calvin Klein, Fendi and Maison Martin Margiela. Frida

Giannini’s sixties mod at Gucci donned a double-breasted coat crafted in twotone shearling. Neil Barrett meanwhile used an effective dégradé technique that seemed to bleed from leather to suede. It was in fact pieced from a single hide given several different treatments. Sarah Burton’s nostalgic Soho throwback to early collections from Alexander McQueen showcased double-breasted coats cut long and lean. In the same vain, shapes were cut in loose, oversized proportions at Bottega Veneta and Ermenegildo Zegna. The latter saw director Stefano Pilati introduce traditional Zegna double-breasted silhouettes updated with scarf-like lapels. Vivienne Westwood’s fight against fracking meanwhile called for deconstructed double-breasted outerwear layered with inverted waistcoat-come-coat tailoring. Along with the dark hues usually associated with the AW 14 season, designers also introduced doublebreasted outerwear in bright shades to the runway. Alexandre Mattiussi of AMI debuted a winter coat in pillarbox red while Dries Van Noten’s retrospective collection offered a version cut from spongy cargo material in a vivid shade of mustard. Humberto Leon and Carol Lim, the design duo behind Kenzo, looked to the Pacific Northwest, playing off mountain landscapes and a neon twilight palette in their outerwear explorations. Ideal for the man who likes to experiment with style, the double-breasted trend values both tradition and modernity. While it may be an integral element of menswear fashion, designers have continued to reinterpret the classic shape. Whether with an additional appliqué structure, a colour revamp or a print overhaul, the fervour of the double-breasted technique has managed to stand the test of time.

Dries Van Noten

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Hunter

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A Dark Sentiment While wrapping up warm for the winter months may be commonplace, inject a sense of style into your wardrobe with carefully selected pieces ideal for outdoor pursuits. Use black as your starting point but add detail with metal accents and tactile fur, whether itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a buckle on a boot or a trim on a weekend bag.

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th wi h n t so wi ea ion ore s m o sit he e t mpo or a e, wh s. r te . F ak p t u co ca t in pper Miy d no d s i p e ssey r m a n bu dit re ro lack or I athe e b le ar i n g mo d mi ally li an Bulg able o u ic ro ur r g e typ tcho from nd d u s a o ar , p gne e s a m s f r o a n c e o u d colo s p i c g o n gr of h ati r fra tes enin ric r i h o ev p t e i n t s w in s e in or k e n t . W l b a opt f n c e s a T ce t, na gra a s ditio scen fra d tra ense eate int t h c r bo

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e t in

ste pp ing into the s e a s o n Photographed by Pieter Henket Styled by Chris Benns

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Shirt, HUGO BOSS | Tie and trousers, THOM BROWNE

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Shirt, SALVATORE FERRAGAMO | Trousers, TOM FORD

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Coat, TOM FORD | Shirt, DIOR HOMME | Trousers, TOMMY HILFIGER | Shoes, HUGO BOSS

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Suit, HUGO BOSS | Shirt, HERMÃ&#x2C6;S | Tie, DOLCE & GABANNA | Shoes, LOUIS VUITTON

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Suit, SALVATORE FERRAGAMO | Shirt, FENDI

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Coat, shirt and trousers, GIVENCHY

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Shirt, DIOR HOMME

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T-shirt, TOM FORD | Trousers, LOUIS VUITTON | Sunglasses, modelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own

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Coat and shirt, LOUIS VUITTON | Trousers, FENDI

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Model: Nick Rea at DNA Models Grooming: Taly Waisberg, using Tom Ford Skincare Casting and local production: Boom Productions inc. Production: Louis Agency

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Never forget the importance of

ACCESSORIES Indulge in pieces that take centre stage

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Inspiration

Street

SCENE

STEALERS Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t fall fool to the weather this winter - fashion is there to see you through. We look back to February and take inspiration from both the AW 14 runways and the stylish streets surrounding them. Take note from the style stars of New York for the final days of 2014. Photographed by Kaitlin Rebesco

Take the lug out of luggage and downsize this winter so arm candy rests comfortably by your side. Holiday not required.

Fall back to basics this season and let subtlety be your statement.

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Street

Inspiration

Sophisticated style needs elegant accessories. Complement fur with tan tones and gold glamour.

A return to the seventies means fringing is back on the menu. Rock â&#x20AC;&#x2122;nâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; roll.

While your accessories should do all the talking, keep the rest of your outfit oversized. Big words require big clothes.

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Street

Inspiration

Don’t let the darker nights get you down and add a little colour to the streets. Even bikes are going bold.

Monogram is all the rage once more. Follow Karolína Kurková’s example and make sure you never lose your bag.

Fight off the chill with Chanel. Furry earmuffs will bring warmth and style.

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Inspiration

Street

Keep it cool in monotone but add an element of interest with a fabric clash.

Brave the elements with a cosy knit but keep your outlook bright with a flash of colour on a winterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s day.

Flash your flesh in statement sheer trousers. They will complement any outfit.

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Talking

A Change in Pace The heel has been knocked from its pedestal and with its demise comes a whole host of women that are more comfortable than ever. MOJEH kisses painful arches and inferiority complexes goodbye. By Emma Grace Bailey

ho hasn’t had a love affair with high heels? We certainly have and everything from Sex and the City to the envy inducing images of Imelda Marcos’ 3000-plus shoe collection have only managed to intensify our feelings over the sartorial years. For many of us our relationship with our heels runs deep. Entire walk-in cupboards are erected in their honour. Miniature boxes and bags are created to protect them from the elements and when worn they have the power to instantly change both our outfit and the way we feel about ourselves in one stylish step. We’ve succumbed to their feminine powers for so long that we regularly battle against their torture inducing ways, enduring hour after hour in their heightened state of perfection – and all for the love of fashion. For FROW regulars and fashion’s most faithful followers, heels have been the unspoken uniform of choice for years and without them we’ve never felt quite right, quite acceptable or quite simply fabulous enough. So why on earth has the heel done a sudden disappearing act? This season, last season - and if the SS15 shows this September are anything to go by then next season too - the heel has taken a backseat in the world of footwear, replaced by the ever-coveted yet frequently hidden substitute of the flat. The shoe we’ve secretly been wearing between shows and on the way home after dinner for years. The shoe that comes with so few connotations and foot-contorting contraptions that one could even call it boring. Yes, this is the shoe that’s having a fashion moment and we for one couldn’t be happier.

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Don’t get us wrong - our heels won’t be permanently shunned to the back of the closet, or even left long enough to attract a layer of dust. The time has come, however, to accept that despite the heels’ lengthy reign, it’s now the flats turn to bask in the limelight. Historically heels have been popular for around 10,000 years when certain tribal chieftains wore stilts to allow them to look down on their tribe members. According to Elizabeth Semmelheck, the senior curator at the Bata Shoe Museum in downtown Toronto, ‘heels entered the Western dress around the turn of the 17th century,’ and she believes that ‘the idea for adding heels to footwear in Europe was inspired by greater European interaction with Persia under Shah Abbas, whose impressive mounted military all wore heeled riding boots.’ Whatever the reason, the heel first became a fascination for both men and women of the aristocrat, used to promote a sign of status and rank, so much so that laws were instilled to stop those of a lower class partaking in the heightened allure of a block heel. The phrase ‘well-heeled’ is even said to originate from this time, thanks to the outraged members of the upper class who stopped anyone below the rank of gentry from wearing a 4-incher. It wasn’t long until the heel became a strictly feminine form of footwear for all and today we are no stranger to its powerful and mesmerising qualities. Dr Paul Morris, principal lecturer of psychology at the University of Portsmouth, England, explains that ‘women wearing high heels walk in a more feminine way. Male and female gait is very different and wearing heels exaggerates the female aspects of gait…they make

Point

Talking

women look more like women.’ As such they have held us in their grips for countless years and no doubt will for countless more as it is the rule of general attraction that we should highlight those aspects which make us more endearing to the opposite sex. Interestingly, a study led by Dr Pawlowski at Poland’s Wroclaw University further supports the argument that the heels’ longevity is attributed to its ability to make us more appealing to others. He revealed that the formula for the perfect legs is those that are longer than your torso but not too long - something which isn’t all that easy to achieve without the help of heels. Yet despite their powers of seduction, these emblems of femininity are also the culprits behind some of our most painful ailments and if you’ve ever spent a day running around the city in your Choos, then you know exactly what we’re talking about. With this in mind it seems only natural that we, as fashion’s naysayers, are delegating our trusty heel to the back of our wardrobes this season, especially when you consider the ridiculous heights they were reaching. Take 2010 for example, the year that saw the influx of Alexander McQueen’s Armadillo - a tear-inducing design that actually prompted some models to refuse to walk the runway. Then we had the heels with no heels - a favourite of Lady Gaga and Daphne Guinness - and just this season a model on the Prada catwalk stopped mid-strut to remove the teetering blocks from her feet. Rebellion among the in-crowd can only mean one thing and with every added inch our resolution got stronger until we reached the point where, quite simply, we decided to say no.

The strike worked as designers began to take notice. Karl Lagerfeld offered us couture trainers - bedazzled, bejewelled and bespoke- while pool slides sandals were spotted everywhere from the catwalk to the front row. Revamped Birkenstocks were named the shoe of the summer this year - seen on 18 to 80 years olds alike and who could forget the spiked Valentino pointed pumps that took the fash pack by storm? We have Stella McCartney to thank for platform trainers and Marni who created sandals that got our fashion hearts pumping, so much so that the general consensus saw flats triumphing over heels in both adoration and style. Of course there are a select few that have been championing the flat for some years now. Alexa Chung has sung its praises on more than one occasion, often walking the red carpet in her much loved Oxfords rather than teetering along on a talon while just this year, Emma Thompson made the world listen with an act of defiance at the Golden Globes, putting into words something we’ve all been thinking for months: ‘I’ve taken my heels off as a feminist statement really, because why do we wear them? They’re so painful. And pointless, really.’ Too true sister. Even Christian Louboutin has finally succumbed to the flat, now offering brogues alongside his towering red-lacquered creations; something he once swore he would never do, stating it is ‘not my job to create something comfortable.’ To be fair to the heel, comfort has never been vastly associated with the world of fashion. In fact, previous seasons have seen the style set contorting their bodies this way and

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Point

Talking

Shoes, Marni

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that just to be on-trend. It’s always been the case that the more outlandish, obscene and gravity defying your footwear, the more stylishly cool you are. All of this, however, is beginning to change. For years heels have empowered women, given them the courage and the confidence to stand tall and garner respect. Yet women no longer need the added boost of a few inches to play their part and the influx of the flat is proof that we’re beginning to take charge. We’re standing up for ourselves and finally realising that succumbing to the heel when we don’t want to is against our feminist values. We’re sending the message that equality of the sexes should trickle down to every aspect of life and so, without the pressure of societal demands, we’re prepared to relinquish the hold of the heel and be outspoken about our needs and our wants. Mostly our right to comfortable feet, for why should we suffer through a working day with our toes entangled in a mess of plasters? ‘I think that the semiotics of high heels are very complex,’ Paul Morris explains. ‘The meaning associated with them is multilayered…and I would argue that flat shoes are much more neutral - their greater functionality requires less explanation and carries fewer meanings,’ allowing us to start each day with a blank slate rather than one mired in years of history. Lucky for us then that today, flats are

cool. They have a pulse. Special, jazzy and downright fugly in some cases,we’re pretty sure their new found status has greatly influenced this sudden change in attitude. Today’s stylista is confident enough to wear flats while everyone around her is teetering along in a heel. She is a woman with principles and gusto. Stella McCartney, the epitome of chic, has even joined the ranks, quoted as saying that ‘there is something about having the confidence to wear a shoe that is not 10 inches tall that sends a message. I think there is something modern and cool about a flat man’s shoe for a woman, a certain attitude in that masculinity and it reflects who you are and not who you are trying to be.’ Before we get carried away, however, we must remember the fickleness of fashion. As much as the idea of a female footwear revolution is enticing, fashion swings on a pendulum of seasonal trends and quite simply there are trends which flourish and trends which fall flat at our Gucci-clad feet. Shoulder pads did nothing for females in the 80s,making them appear mannish and unappealing. Heels however - and this might be the part that you don’t want to hear are intrinsically linked to our femininity, enhancing the way we walk and ultimately rendering us more appealing to the opposite sex. A basic human instinct that is unlikely to ever disappear and thus the reign of the heel may well return. With this in mind, let’s make a pact to make the most of this current change in social barriers and enjoy the pure bliss of walking unhindered and uninjured down the street. Snap up every pair of embellished flats you can find and relish in the notion that your feet will be cushioned and comfortable for the months to come. It may be a novelty but it’s one we’re going to exploit while we can. Long live the flat.

Desired

Most

NATHALIE TRAD Lifting Sculptures

Dubai-based designer Nathalie Trad’s status is on the rise as her collection of clutches have been spotted around the globe on the arms of fashionable women. Counting Olivia Palermo and Sienna Miller among her A-list clients, Trad turns natural materials such as wood, shell and resin into stunning sculptural designs that have even the most fashionable women weak at the knees. The Beirut-born beauty can also add collaborating with royalty to her CV, as her latest collection with none other than fashionable face and Qatari royalty, Princess Deena Aljuhani Abdulaziz launches for online store Farfetch.com. With

a royal seal of approval, who are we to argue? Originally inspired by Albertus Seba’s Cabinet of Natural Curiosities and the colours that were combined in the insect illustrations, Trad takes the limitless possibility of nature and manipulates material to create a statement clutch that stands out from the sea of silk. For AW 14, the collection harks back to the Art Deco period, with geometric lines and opulent colours. The clutches combine the natural beauty of Seba’s world with the dimensions of a modern city known for pushing architectural boundaries. Stay ahead of the pack and jump on board the Trad train today.

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CARTIER

A Private Offering Handbag fans hold your breath as Cartier has released a range of limited-edition bags for The Private Collection. The Jeanne Toussaint range, named after the Cartier muse of the same name, brings to life a jewellery bag inspired by the house’s own former creative director. Toussaint is credited with introducing the iconic Panthère de Cartier so expect the bags to hold the same attention to detail as the maison’s most stunning jewellery pieces. Luxurious leathers and crocodile skins are combined then cut, sewn, stitched, stamped, sanded down and dyed and it takes around

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one hundred ‘operations’ before the bag is completed. What’s more, craftsmen must train for five years before they are able to handle the leathers. For those after an even more exclusive experience, craftsmen can create bespoke Jeanne Toussaint bags from a range of colours, stones and finishes, as well as engraving initials upon the interior mirror so now you can stowaway your secrets in a way that the mysterious Cartier designer would be proud of. Known for creating exclusive handbags for the fashionable and elite members of society, enter Toussaint’s world through these latest ‘its’.

Desired

Most

MOO EYEWEAR SUNNY SIDE UP

We all know the importance of stellar sunglasses when basking in year round sunshine. Luckily for us, there’s a new and super stylish kid on the block. MOO Eyewear is the brainchild of Central Saint Martins graduate Moo Piyasombatkul. With celebrity fans including Lady Gaga and Rita Ora, you can guarantee you’ll be turning heads with her quirky Baroque style. During her time as a jewellery design student, Piyasombatkul took it upon herself to reinvent the eyewear landscape which she felt was lacking in variety. Created out of porcelain by artisans in the designer’s native Thailand, the Baroque collections bring together the inspirations behind Piyasombatkul’s lifestyle.

A passion for vintage is evident and the candy colours are said to be inspired by the pastries and desserts loved by the designer. Coveted by both the cool quirky girl types and classic dressers who like to add just one element of interest, MOO provides a luxe finish to any look. With a range of sunglasses shapes and styles, her porcelain detailing which borders the eyes like a stunning picture frame remains the signature. Whether gently placed at the curved side of the rim, lined across the centre, or added in small, sweeping detail, the styles err on the side of casual cool. Choose from candy shades to monochrome tones, whatever catches your eye.

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Accessory

FLASH

Step up the glamour of camouflage in Diorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s blooming lovely prints.

Keep prints chic by sticking to a monotone palette. Lengthening stripes will work wonders.

E i g h t Way s

To Wear Photographed by Joan Braun

Take shade from the sun in statement sunglasses. Let your eyes do all the talking.

Why not wear something unexpected. Is it a scarf or is it a bracelet?

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Accessory

FLASH

Navy neutrals are made to pop with a notice-me print on your arm.

Mismatched earrings provide a point of interest. It’s fashion, darling.

Last May, we were sailing across the murky waters of New York’s East River towards the Brooklyn Navy Yard. What awaited us once we left our water taxi was an explosion of colour. ‘I wanted an element of playfulness in powerful looks,’ said creative director Raf Simons of his latest cruise collection for the house of Dior. ‘It was an element of freedom coming into those looks.’ Here we shine a light on the collection’s stunning accessories and explore the most stylish ways to wear them.

Put your best foot forward in architectural heels and don’t let the Dior flower escape you.

Show your support with typography adorning your accessories. No need to be subtle.

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Winter’s Wonders Let us take you on a tour of the season’s hottest accessory trends. Shake your tail feather in Marni, go for gold in Saint Laurent or stand on top of the world in Roger Vivier’s orb heels. It’s the only way to work it.

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Add a luxe edge to the most laidback of looks with a subtle flash of gold.

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Shoes, PAUL ANDREW @net-aporter.com | Clutch, MARNI

Make your look playful by taking inspiration from our winged friends. Feathers will make your outfit soar.

Hat, DIOR | Shoes, ROGER VIVIER | Cuffs, both CHANEL

Keep your country pursuits glamorous with the addition of gold and embellishment. Mud is not the new black.

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Clockwise from left: Bag, LOUIS VUITTON | BVLGARI | EMPORIO ARMANI | ETHAN K | Boots, GUCCI

Snakes, reptiles and crocodiles, oh my! Unleash the jungle into your wardrobe with sizzling skins.

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Top to bottom: Shoes, DOLCE & GABBANA | ROGER VIVIER

Take the season in your stride by rocking metallic shoes as you work your way round the room.

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Shoes, ROGER VIVIER | Bag, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

Hold the world in the palm of your hand with Alexander McQueen’s orb bag.

Clockwise from top: Boots, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN | Clutch, DOLCE & GABBANA | Necklace, TOM BINNS @net-a-porter. com | Cuffs, GUCCI | Bag, CHLOÉ

Let your accessories be the jewel in your crown and amp up the bling factor with these statement buys.

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affair

Accessory

PEARL

DIVER As National Day approaches, take to the depths of Middle Eastern history and look to the rich past of pearl diving. Opt for a subtle hint of mother of pearl as seen at Dior and Boucheron, or dive a little deeper with Chanelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s pink beauty.

RALPH LAUREN

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affair

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DESERT

DARLING Let the delights of the desert and the Arabian nights inspire you. Whether you add a stylish sting to your outfit with Tiffany & Co.’s scorpion necklace or protect yourself with Noudar’s stunning hamsa hand piece, just make sure you add a flash of culture to your ensemble.

RAMI AL ALI

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Necklace, earrings and ring in gold with aquamarines and yellow sapphires, DOLCE&GABBANA Skin (throughout), Essential Cleansing Milk, Aurealux Eye Gel and Aurealux Cream, DOLCE&GABBANA Skin Care Perfect Matte Liquid Foundation, Perfect Matte Concealer, Pressed Powder and Illuminator in Eva 3, DOLCE&GABBANA Make-up Face, Blush in Delight 35 | Eyes, Perfect Mono Eyeshadow in Nude 30 and Gold Dust 20, Eyeshadow Quad in Contrasts 140, Eyeliner in Chocolate 10 and Nude 9, Glam Liner in Black Intense 1, Passion Eyes Mascara in Nero 1 and Brow Liner in Soft Brown 1 | Lips, Classic Cream Lipstick in Daring 310 | Nails, Lacquer 190 in Passione 121 mixed with Pink 100, DOLCE&GABBANA Make-up

Ba r o q u e

B eau t y Photographed by Alvaro Beamud CortĂŠs

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Ribbon and heart pendant, earrings and ring in yellow gold with garnets and grey, black and colourless sapphires, DOLCE&GABBANA Face, Blush in Provocative 40 | Eyes, Perfect Mono Shadow in Nude 30, Lava 140 and Gold Dust 20, Eye Shadow Quad in Smoky 105, Eyeliner in Black 5 and Nude 9, Glam Liner in Black Intense 1, Passioneyes Mascara in Nero 1 and Brow Liner in Soft Brown 1 and Mocha 3 | Lips, Classic Cream Lipstick in Black Magic 630 | Nails, Lacquer in Fiamma 155, DOLCE&GABBANA Make-up

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Necklace, earrings and ring in yellow gold with a mix of stones, DOLCE&GABBANA Face, Blush in Rosebud 33 | Eyes, Perfect Mono Eyeshadow in Nude 30, Desert 40 and Gold Dust 20, Eyeshadow Duo in Gold 130, Eyeliner in Chocolate 10 and Nude 9, Glam Liner in Black Intense 1, Passioneyes mascara in Nero 1, Brow Liner in Soft Brown 1 | Lips, Classic Cream Lipstick in Delight 115 | Nails, Lacquer in Rose Petal 102, 193 DOLCE&GABBANA Make-up

Necklace, bracelet and ring in gold with red rhodolite garnets, pink sapphires and baroque pearls, DOLCE&GABBANA Face, Blush in Rosebud 33 | Eyes, Perfect Mono Eyeshadow in Nude 30 and Gold Dust 20, Eyeshadow Quad in Mediterraneo 120, Eyeliner in Chocolate 10 and Nude 9, Glam Liner in Black Intense 1, Passioneyes Mascara in Nero 1, Brow Liner in Soft Brown 1 and Mocha 3 | Lips, Classic Cream Lipstick in Ruby 640 | Nails, Lacquer in Fiamma 155 mixed 194 with Pink 100, DOLCE&GABBANA Make-up

Necklace, earrings and ring in gold with purplish pink tourmaline, round diamonds and a mix of stones, DOLCE&GABBANA Face, Blush in Mauve Diamond 38 | Eyes, Perfect Mono Eyeshadow in Nude 30 and Gold Dust 20, Eyeshadow Quad in Amore 145, Eyeliner in Black 5 and Nude 9, Glam Liner in Black Intense 1, Passioneyes Mascara in Nero 1 and Brow Liner in Soft Brown 1 and Mocha 3 | Lips, Classic Cream Lipstick in Tease 215 | Nails, Lacquer in Gentle 105 mixed with Pink 100, DOLCE&GABBANA Make-up

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Necklace, earrings and ring in gold with freshwater pearls and one square step-cut citrine, DOLCE&GABBANA Face, Blush in Peach 20 | Eyes, Perfect Mono Eyeshadow in Nude 30, Cocoa 60, Gold Dust 20, Eyeshadow Quad in Femme Fatale 100, Eyeliner in Black 5 and Nude 9, Glam Liner in Black Intense 1, Passioneyes Mascara in Nero 1, Brow Liner in Soft Brown 1 | Lips, Classic Cream Lipstick in Nude 120 | Nails, Lacquer in Pure Nude 215 mixed with 196 Pink 100, DOLCE&GABBANA Make-up

Model: Kinga Rajzak at WhyNot Models Hair Stylist: Lorenzo Barcella at Aldo Coppola Agency

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198 Photographed by Alvaro Beamud Cortes, wearing Dolce&Gabbana

Say goodbye to 2014 with

BEAUTY

that makes your heart beat faster

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Winter Notes Delve into the season nose first with our pick of the finest fragrances and the ingredients that set them alight. If floral notes make your heart aflutter then spritz yourself with Elie Saabâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s latest scent. For those who prefer a headier finish, look to Guerlain and YSL whose rosemary and cedar notes will satisfy all your senses.

ELIE SAAB, Essence No.1 Rose Bulgarian rose, Turkish rose, Centifolia rose, Damask rose and Grasse rose absolute.

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Fragrance CLINIQUE, Beyond Rose Amber, rose petals and white pepper

PRADA, Candy Florale Limoncello sorbet, peony, benzoin, musk, honey and caramel

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GIVENCHY, Ambre Tigré Amber, vanilla, labdanum and balsamic

‘Experiment with men’s cologne for a muskier take on seasonal scents.’

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Fragrance GUERLAIN, Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Homme Ideal Citrus, orange blossom, almond,, tonka bean, leather, vetiver, cedar and rosemary

YVES SAINT LAURENT, Splendid Wood Cardamom, thyme, incense, Sambac jasmine, cypriol, oud and cedar

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JO MALONE, Wood Sage and Sea Salt Ambrette seed, sage, grapefruit, red algae and sea salt

VERSACE POUR FEMME, Oud Oriental Oud, rose, freesia, heliotrope, violet, patchouli, leather and orange.

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â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Sea or citrus tones add a fresh fragrance to darker days.â&#x20AC;&#x2122;

TOM FORD, Velvet Orchid Honey, Bergamot, mandarin, orange blossom, rum, jasmine, Turkish rose, Moroccan rose, magnolia, myrrh, suede, black orchid, labdanum, sandalwood, vanilla and honey

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FOCUS

Beauty

Channel the 90s with a deep, dark slick of brown for a new year’s ball.

ILLAMASQUA, Buff

Stand-out lips will bring the focus back to you. A pop of pink looks daring after dark.

GUERLAIN, Excessive Rose

A swipe of nude lipstick will keep focus on the eyes and look polished to perfection. We dare you to go bare.

DIOR, Bar

We’re a strong believer in the right lipstick and its ability to lift any look. Whatever the occasion this festive season, perfect your pout with our pick of winter’s hottest hues.

Sometimes pretty is the only way forward. Work blush shades when the occasion calls for something a little more demure.

CLINIQUE, Matte Beauty

Subtle shades keep you on-trend without overpowering your look. Just what you want for a day of giftshopping.

CHANEL, Intime

Red has taken a trendy turn as neon and orange bases step forward. Perfect for a Saturday afternoon pick-me-up.

CHANEL, Volage

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There is a reason Old Hollywood remains the most glamorous era. Deep red lips pull together any look for an after-hours soirée.

For a Christmas spent at the beach, coral colours flatter any skin tone so stay close to tangy tones.

GUCCI, Wild Amarena

GUERLAIN, Golden Girl

EVERYTHING IN MOJEH MAGAZINE IS AVAILABLE TO

BY CONTACTING LOUIS FOURTEEN.

T : + 9 7 1

( 4 )

4 5 4

2 0 5 0

W : l o u i s f o u r t e e n . c o m

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Beauty

LA DOLCE VITA If you’re going to perfect just one look this winter, we’re championing the Italian bombshell. This classic beauty brings focus to the eyes with peachy cheeks and sultry skin. Complete the look with the season’s most popular hair trend -braids twizzled into a chic and tidy bun.

skin Enhance your natural beauty and let your skin do all the talking. Blur over imperfections with Dolce & Gabbana’s Perfect Reveal Lift Foundation and add a fresh flush to cheeks with Dior’s rose darling blush. Focus is on the flicked eyes so keep your shadow neutral and lips barely there. 1. DOLCE & GABBANA | 2. YSL, Couture Palette No. 3 | 3. DIOR, Blush in Rose Darling | 4. DOLCE & GABBANA, Perfect Reveal Lift Foundation in Bronze

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Eyes Eyebrows define the face so use Guerlain’s eyebrow pencil to create a strong look for the eyes before lining them with Chanel’s eyeliner pen. This allows you to draw those lines with ease - a cheat’s guide to precision -and don’t forget several coats of mascara to create lust-worthy lashes. 1. GUCCI | 2. MAC, Moody Blooms mascara in False Black | 3. GUERLAIN, The Eyebrow Pencil | 4. CHANEL, Eyeliner pen in Noir

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hair Glossy hair that looks rich and healthy is on every woman’s wish list. Envelop your locks in Sisley’s conditioner before treating them to a coat of Caudalie’s cult Divine Oil. Braided buns look sleek and romantic so don’t let the elements take effect. Protect your ‘do with Oribe’s Anti-Humidity Spray. 1. DOLCE & GABBANA | 2. ORIBE, Anti-Humidity Spray | 3. CAUDALIE, Divine Oil | 4. SISLEY, Conditioner

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Take Note, Chanel N°5 What woman does not have a relationship with Chanel’s iconic N°5 fragrance? For many, the scent evokes memories from our childhood, with our mothers and grandmothers amongst its many fans. Created by Ernest Beaux in 1921, the world’s most famous fragrance has still managed to maintain its popularity over the years. Gisele Bündchen is the latest star to be chosen to bring the fragrance to life for the 2014 audience. ‘The Chanel woman can be with herself on a beach, she can be with her child, can have an aspirational and fulfilling work life, and at the same time she can have a true relationship,’ says producer and director Baz Luhrmann, who brings his recognisable, dream-like world to the campaign. With music at the core of the short film, surround your senses and follow us into the world of Chanel N°5. Photographed by Hugh Stewart, courtesy of Chanel

Finish Touches, SOH ART+BEAUTY Tucked away in Dubai’s Galleria Mall is an urban oasis of cool. This salon-come-art gallery boasts a sleek interior with a warehouse feel while white brick walls, concrete floors and exposed pipes in the high ceilings seem more akin to a downtown New York art space than a Jumeirah beauty salon. Convenient then that all of the striking pop art hung from the walls can be taken home with you. If you aren’t looking to purchase a piece of art quite that big then choose from the array of quirky designs on display to recreate on your nails instead.. For full-on glamour, book in for a hair appointment where you can get anything from a simple blow-dry to a work of hair art and semipermanent colouring in rainbow shades. Quite possibly the most stylish salon in the city, SoH is the new go-to for all your finishing touches.

Must Try, Red Carpet Facial, Biolite In search of a ‘festive glow’ we set our sights on Biolite Aesthetic Clinic in Jumeirah, Dubai. Having been followers of the UK clinic since it made its way to the Middle East in 2007 – offering everything the modern female may need, from hypnotherapy and slimming techniques to specialist skincare – we knew their specialist facials would be the cure. Tailored specifically with events season in mind, Biolite’s Red Carpet Facial preps the skin for the glare of bright lights and impending sleep deprivation. Acting as a rescue remedy, the skin is first scrubbed, exfoliated, resurfaced and then gently zapped with radio frequency to firm up the skin and take care of contouring and definition. A final layer of stem cell serum infuses the skin with luminosity and energy. Leaving pores feeling tighter, eyes wider and skin with just the right amount of shine. The hardest part is drawing yourself away from the clinic’s tranquil setting - but your audience waits.

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THE seven DAYS

OF BEAUTY Be sure to leave this page open as you pack your cases for the holiday season. Whether youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re sloughing off bad habits with bia & ule or revitalising skin with La Prairie, MOJEH brings you the latest beauty buys, sure to satisfy your every travel need.

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health

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Saying Goodbye Living without dairy means living without cheese. CHEESE. But once you’re over that hurdle it can be a surprisingly rewarding lifestyle choice. We investigate. By Emma Grace Bailey

airy has been an intrinsic part of our lifestyle for thousands of years. Around 9000, to be precise - ever since the Middle East decided to look to its country’s natural inhabitants and saw cows as a larder on legs rather than just a source of meat. Migrating north over the years, the white stuff gradually introduced itself to the rest of world and with it came the birth of the lactose intolerant. Today, lactose intolerance is more common than you’d think. In fact, the number of sufferers rises with every passing year and at present around one third of the western population have to watch their dairy intake, with our risk of becoming intolerant only increasing with age. (Yet another thing we have to look forward to – sigh.) But what exactly is this condition that is shaking up our meal times? ‘Lactose intolerance is the inability to digest the milk sugar, lactose,’ says London-based nutritional therapist Penny Crowther, whose experience in the industry spans two decades ‘The lactose [then] builds up in the intestines where it is fermented by bacteria,’ causing myriad side effects that are, above all, fairly unpleasant. ‘Common symptoms are gas, bloating, diarrhea and nausea,’ Crowther continues and it is thanks to the lack of the enzyme lactase, which enables us to break up the milk sugar into the more easily absorbed glucose and galactose, that causes these reactions. Vivienne Penson, a long-standing sufferer of lactose intolerance knows the possible consequences of sneaking a bit of chocolate when you shouldn’t only too well. ‘I was diagnosed in December 1975 after suffering many attacks of severe gastric pain, sickness, upset bowels and dreadful headaches,’ she divulges. ‘I was hospitalised for 10 days and I underwent numerous tests. If I consume dairy today, I’ll have stomach cramps, headaches and feel really tired so I try to avoid lactose completely.’ With that in mind, the melt-in-your-mouth pleasures of a Cadbury’s Dairy Milk bar hardly seem worth it.

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It’s not all doom and gloom, however, as it’s important to remember that an intolerance isn’t the same as an allergy. ‘Milk allergy means the immune system is mistaking milk for a foreign invader and producing an IgE antibody in response to it,’ Crowther explains. ‘Symptoms are like those of any other allergy and can be wide ranging, from eczema and hives to wheezing and watery eyes. People with a milk allergy must avoid all dairy products whereas those who are intolerant can often eat a small amount.’ Interestingly the level of lactose intolerance varies from country to country. Westerners are notoriously said to smell like milk to those from Asian descent, something they can thank their dairy rich diets for, (but nothing that a vigorous scrub with a scented soap can’t solve). As such, their lactose intolerance rates are the lowest of them all. Skip over to southern African countries China and Brazil, however, and it’s a completely different story. Here around 90% of inhabitants are unable to digest lactose due, in large, to a history of eating food that didn’t require the juice of a cow to make. As a result, their bodies aren’t used to tackling the sugars that are present in pasteurised milk today. Luckily the world has clocked on and recent months have seen an astronomical rise in the variety of dairy free products available and taste is finally being put front and centre, something that Vivienne Penson is only too happy about. ‘10 to 20 years ago there wasn’t a lot available,’ she says. ‘It was very hard to replace dairy products with alternatives and going out for meals was a nightmare - most chefs hadn’t even heard of it. I often had to have a calcium supplement but over the last decade, more and more options have become readily available in supermarkets, some even tastier than their dairy counterparts.’ And as the industry finally takes the palate into consideration, they’ve began to reap the rewards as 2013 saw the ‘free-from’ food market valued at £283m - a 15% growth from the previous year - indicating that more and more people are choosing this lifestyle than ever before. And when we say choosing, we mean it.

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THE GOOD PRACTICE, Laban Up bag @shopatsauce.com

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CHANEL, Lait de Coco bag

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on the front line. Jeffrey Zorn, founder of Daintree, set up this venture after experiencing his own severe digestive issues a few years ago and is determined to bring the ease of healthy living to your doorstep. With an easy-to-order, easy-to-eat meal plan that provides gluten, dairy, eggs, grains, soy and sugar free meals, Zorn’s goal is ‘solely to improve health and to make sure the people of Dubai - who are exposed to so many dietary evils - have a quick, easy and natural option to treat their ailments.’ Borrowing the name from the Daintree Rainforest in Northern Australia - ‘where hunter gatherers still lead very simple lives in harmony with their environment’ - this regime offers not only alternative food options but all the education needed to understand your body’s reaction to various food groups. Even better, plans for a Daintree restaurant are already underway so eating out the dairy-free way will become that little bit simpler. Elsewhere in Dubai, bakeries such as Sweet Connection and Skinny Genie have also tapped into the market, with the latter - sold everywhere from Caribou Coffee to Comptoir 102 - offering the likes of delicate rosewater and pistachio madeleines and banana and walnut cake without a lactose sugar in sight. As with anything, however, certain risks must be considered before implementing such a change and the replacement of vital nutrients that we normally get from our milky nightcap is at the top of the list. ‘Dairy provides calcium, protein and bacteria,’ Poole explains, ‘all of which are vital for our heart health, digestive and immune systems, energy production and cardiovascular system. We all know that calcium helps to maintain bone health but it also helps to regulate the heartbeat, aids nerve transmission, hormone balance and the function of insulin.’ All of this means it’s extra important we find other ways of getting our daily dose. For calcium intake, look to almonds, broccoli, buckwheat, sardines, tahini, tofu and leafy vegetables – and keep in mind you’ll need to eat a lot of the greens to get a decent amount. Penny Crowther advises that all nuts and seeds should be blended, breaking down cell walls and releasing the minerals for the body to easily absorb. In the protein aisle we have meat, naturally, but also beans, lentils, pulses and quinoa - all of which can handily be found in your nearest health food shop. If you’re a vegetarian or just generally a fussy eater, Crowther advises that you ‘should supplement with B12, calcium citrate, magnesium citrate and vitamin D.’ As with all drastic lifestyle changes, it’s important to do your homework first so be sure to seek the help of a qualified nutritionist before embarking on this transition as it won’t be for everyone. We might not be designed to consume milk in vast quantities past the age of four, but a lifetime of habit takes determination and patience to change, so go slow and take it as it comes. We also advise that you prepare yourself for the imminent cravings, as saying farewell to chocolate isn’t all that simple to come to terms with. Trust us.

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‘Dairy free alternatives are becoming more and more popular, even for people who aren’t lactose intolerant,’ says Alice Mackintosh, leading nutritionial food therapist at The Food Doctor clinic on Harley Street, London. ‘Dairy is not the route of all evil…but many people find they generally feel better not over doing it or cutting it out altogether.’ Benefits come thick and fast with everything from weight loss and decreased anxiety to improved sleep and clearer skin being linked to reduced dairy intake. It’s even said to improve certain issues that only us women get the pleasure of experiencing - ‘many of my female clients give up dairy if they have hormonal imbalances such as PCOS, endometriosis and PMS,’ Mackintosh explains. ‘These are due to slightly elevated hormone levels in milk.’ And if the blinding success of recent healthy eating regimes such as the alkaline diet by Honestly Healthy’s Natasha Corrett and Deliciously Ella’s whole-food, plant-based recipies are anything to go by (both of which steer clear of dairy completely), it’s fair to say that this ‘fad’ of dairy-free diets is no longer really a fad at all. ‘In this current climate,’ explains nutritional therapist Karen Poole, ‘people are more concerned and active about their personal and emotional health and we’re becoming interested in our biology and the means by which we can support it. We all want to live long and healthy lives.’ So it goes, looking to our diets is one of the easiest places to start. So where do we find the tastiest dairy free morsels for your gourmet pleasure? Natasha Corrett, who eliminated dairy, gluten and meat to combat her incessant yo-yo dieting, swears by coconut yoghurt. ‘I am rarely without a tub of COYO in my fridge,’ she reveals. ‘It’s packed with essential fatty acids and is delicious with porridge, desserts and all sorts.’ On the milk front she recommends Rude Health varieties who offer stellar versions of ‘brown rice mylk, almond mylk, coconut mylk and gluten free oat mylk. ‘Nut milks have a beautifully rich taste that complements all sorts of sweet dishes, adding a natural sweetness,’ she tells us. Even better, it’s healthier and more versatile than that from cows. On the snack front (our weak spot, we’ll admit), everything from Booja-Booja ice cream - a cashew based, delightfully creamy alternative that not only tastes like the real thing but is actually infinitely times better for you - through to Nākd bars, organic Biona Honey Waffles, RAW chocolate, Conscious Chocolate and any dark chocolate over 80% cocoa should satisfy even the most peckish of cravings. If you’re worried about having to give up cheese completely - something we’re finding it very difficult to come to terms with ourselves- then never fear as many sheep and goats cheese are suitable, viable and delicious substitutes. From the crumble of a feta to the richness of a Spanish Manchego, cheese can stay firmly on the menu. *Breathes a sigh of relief* The UAE is no stranger to this dietary overturn either and new Dubai-based food delivery service Daintree Food marks the dawn of a new attitudethat puts health

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Dorothea MacGowan wearing a suit from CHANEL Fall/Winter Haute Couture collection, 1960

Whet your appetite for

CULTURE

Never stop learning and exploring

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Photographed by David Luraschi

Photographed by Brent Luvaas

Photographed by David Luraschi

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Photographed by Brent Luvaas

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The Real

Factor In recent years, what we wear is increasingly shaped not by what we see on the catwalks but off it, as street style photography has exploded into a global, viral phenomenon. As it continues to capture more and more followers, the people on the ground are questioning its lack of reality. Now, fashion bloggers are searching for a more appetizing authenticity.

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eep style’ photography, a phrase coined by journalist Morwenna Ferrier this July in the UK’s Guardian newspaper, is a more dissident method to street style photography. With a few key individuals leading the way, the new approach is gaining a great deal of insight and interest from the fashion world and beyond. For decades Suzy Menkes, world-renowned style editor for the International Herald Tribune and Vogue’s international editor, became accustomed to her and her fellow editors being labelled as the ‘black crows’ as a reference to the head-to-toe black, Japanese-inspired or slightly dour ensembles loved and worn by the oldschool fashion elite. In contrast, in 2013 Menkes published ‘The Circus of Fashion’ in which she referenced the new street style blogger: ‘ Today, the people outside fashion shows are more like peacocks than crows’. Like something from David Bowie’s Space Oddity, many cloud their silhouettes in the most unusual, inventive and in-your-face ensembles. It’s extreme fashion, or just plain fun – as long as the main focus is on them. They are an opposing feathered force

in their statement heels, look-at-me carefully crafted outfits and fashion friend in tow and for them, the less-is-more mantra is non-existent. Menkes wasn’t the first to question this lack of authenticity and she won’t be the last. ‘For me, there is so much to look at in someone’s figure that a face is not necessary. It’s distracting. Our backs are our second faces, the ones we can’t hide,’ muses French-American photographer David Luraschi. Dubbed as the ‘sartorialist of sadness’ by a friend, Luraschi is leading the way for the evolving genre of ‘peep style’ photography. ‘I personally don’t think my photos are sad but rather reflect a different reality,’ says Luraschi. ‘It’s purely instinctual, I don’t really think – I just take’. Deliberately capturing his subject matters from behind and then uploading his findings to Instagram, the level of realism is unparalleled by any traditional fashion photographer on the street. ‘I don’t consider myself a fashion photographer and I’m no authority on the history of street style. Perhaps it’s a form of appropriation of fashion by the masses?’ he poses. ‘For me these portraits are figure studies, aesthetics of passers-by. I’ve

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been photographing people on the street since ‘Street style was the sidewalk to the industry’s 2006. When I moved back to Paris last year, my catwalk, the grit to its glamour,’ says interest widened to all ages and the fact that I anthropologist Brent Luvaas. After discovering use an iPhone to photograph them opened up street style blogs a few years ago, Luvaas a whole new world. I can get away with much was struck by the similarities between the more now because people are unaware of the endeavours of the photographers and his own camera’, he says. work as an anthropologist. ‘We both document Luraschi is one of a growing number of trends in global fashion as they happen and photographers being acknowledged for his we both attempt to come to some deeper more realistic street shots. Referencing each understanding of the meaning of clothing in other as photographers to note, a circle of ‘peep peoples’ lives’, he says. It is through this desire style’ aficionados is steadily growing. LA-based for a deeper understanding that Luvaas started photographers Aris Karatarakis and Alkistis his own blog, Urban Fieldnotes, in 2012 when Tsitouri started their blog, Streetgeist, in Athens he started photographing people on the streets in 2008. With the aim to show off the style of of Philadelphia. ‘I’m inspired by people who their city, they took to building themselves ooze confidence and self-possession, who a platform. ‘I am just looking for interesting just have that little something extra you can’t people with style. I quite articulate but am never looking for can recognise from a a particular thing, I block away’, he says. am letting myself be However as street style grows, many open and amazed by are questioning its the possibilities of Referencing each other what I can find,’ says realism. ‘I think street as photographers to note, Tsitouri. Similarly,, style photography is a victim of its own Luraschi looks for real a circle of ‘peep style’ substance, too: ‘I’ve success’, says Luvaas. aficionados is steadily always been interested ‘The sidewalks outside in characters and fashion shows have growing. realised that they’re become concrete an element which red carpets and as a consequence, remains original and inexhaustible in a city street style is getting that is overwhelmingly more boring and predictable. There is photographed.’ Taking to the streets on his bicycle in his iconic nothing ‘real’ about fashion week street style. blue $5 jacket, Bill Cunningham - the pioneer It is contrived and overtly self-promotional as of street style photography in the 1970s - is anything else the fashion industry produces. still capturing fashion moments to this day. It ought to be relabelled as ‘off runway’ The original street style blogs of the early photography’, he affirms. Maybe this distaste noughties such as The Sartorialist by Scott lies in the overpowering nature of the statement Schuman or Phil Oh’s Street Peeper may have makers, the posers – the ‘peacocks’. If people been few and far between but can be credited dress only with the desire to be photographed, for the popularity of street style blogs today as the authenticity is instantly sidelined. people continue to lust for this sense of reality. Over the past year, the fashion world has People love to look and see how trends have watched the Normcore trend emerge - a term transcended from the runway onto the street. invented by New York-based trend forecasters It’s about finding style inspiration and curbing K-Hole to describe less pretentious, utterly a certain curiosity for the unknown. conventional and seriously understated outfit

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Photographed by David Luraschi

Photographed by Aris Karatarakis/Alkistis Tsitouri

Photographed by David Luraschi

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Photographed by Aris Karatarakis/Alkistis Tsitouri

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choices.The trend has only been further a lot and it has changed accordingly, but I don’t heightened by the sudden influx of summer mind that. I’m waiting to see how it will change Birkenstocks (the once world-renowned clunky, in the future.’ This backlash against fashion dowdy and seriously dull footwear) and Adidas is cyclical: they want to go back to the start – pool sliders (if sport enthusiasts can wear the way it used to be. ‘I have to admit I enjoy them, so can we). With designers churning out looking at it myself and I’ve shot my share of six collections per year and the latest status it too for that matter. I just hope there is still a statement-making accessory only lusted after place in street style photography for something for six months, this new non-trend maybe more grounded in everyday reality’, says Luvaas. the fashion followers’ way of saying we can’t But where does this leave the future for street keep up – so we’ll oppose. Does this mean the style photography? ‘Some photographers, trendsetters and the photographers are equally like Gunnar Hämmerle, have returned to bored of the statement makers and peacocking? their street style roots, eschewing fashion So it seems, as blending in is increasingly the week gloss for grittier, artier fare. Others, like new standing out. ‘The problems are in the Liisa Jokinen, have just kept on doing what eye of the beholder and these qualities of ‘real’ they’re doing - shooting interesting people in representation are as straightforwardpresent in every art a-way as possible. form…spontaneity Photographers like them are inspiring can be lost when things a new generation to are over-produced, over t h o u g h t ’, pick up a camera, hit says Luraschi. In the streets, and post This backlash against agreement, Luvaas their images too’, says notes: ‘I think street Luvaas. Maybe there fashion is cyclical: they style photography will always be two want to go back to the start is in a moment of halves: the statementidentity crisis. Blogs makers outside shows – the way it used to be. are largely giving way and the realists off the to micro-blogging beaten track. Photographs of street media like Instagram and Tumblr’. style are captured, Internationally shared and continually acclaimed magazines discussed online on a daily basis. As this now pay street style photographers for their images and therein small cluster of photographers take to the streets lies a plausible issue: as the popularity of to capture real style, real people and real life these bloggers rise and magazines buy their moments, its place will in turn be questioned by work, the readers believe this representation the industry. Known for creating fantasy out of is mirroring reality. ‘Street style blogs have reality, the world of fashion constantly lusts for become a significant marketing tool for the the unimaginable and unobtainable – the desire fashion industry’, says Luvaas. ‘They shoot for realism is firmly pushed to the background. editors, models and street style stars because Photographing reality is grittier and usually that’s what the magazine editors want them to reflects a true sense of style and self – nothing shoot. And the people they shoot wear brand- is contrived. ‘If you’re patient enough I believe loaned couture unlike anything most people you can produce a good photo with anyone’, would wear in real life’, he says. In contrast, says Luraschi. Taking shots outside of shows is Tsitouri sees it as a form of photographical instant, but the real hunters have to be patient evolution: ‘the whole phenomenon has grown and wait to capture a moment. That is precious.

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Fostering an Artistic

Dialogue Through recent exhibitions and acquisitions, the Louvre Abu Dhabi is seeking to define itself as an institution for artistic and cultural exchange. We take a closer look.

statuette of a Bactrian priestess, with her small white head and disproportionately large dark body seems out of place next to a 1960s bright blue splattered painting revealing the imprint of a human body by French artist Yves Klein. But they communicate. Both reveal renderings of the human body – depictions that are relevant to the artistic language of the period in which they were created. And this was the point in placing them side-by-side. While they are visually distinct in aesthetic form, each portrays the torso, albeit through differing interpretations. The scene is from ‘Birth of a Museum’, the Louvre Abu Dhabi’s first largescale presentation of the museum’s permanent collection at the Manarat Al Saadiyat. In Paris this past summer the scene was similar. Next to the Passage Richelieu, the Rue de Rivoli entrance of the Musée du Louvre, was a serene Buddha’s head juxtaposed with the face of an Ottoman emir. Both were rendered deep in concentration – a similarity that they shared despite the many centuries and cultures between them. The sight was adorning a welcoming banner for Abu Dhabi’s ‘Birth of a Museum’ exhibition at the Louvre in Paris. The show symbolises an event that has been much anticipated and is the most concrete evidence of Abu Dhabi’s wider cultural ambitions. Displayed in the Louvre’s Napoleon Hall, which is the world’s largest temporary exhibition space, the show was larger than the one exhibited in the emirate and featured more than 160 pieces from the Louvre Abu Dhabi’s growing permanent collection.

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While the juxtaposition of artworks from such differing periods and media challenged our normal reading of a traditional museum exhibition, what the show did do was explore human representation from a universal subject matter – an objective sought after by both institutions. Through cutting-edge art exhibitions such as this the Louvre in both Paris and Abu Dhabi aims to show how art is a source of inspiration across time and cultures.

Bridging Differences While there has been much controversy regarding the relationship between the Louvre Abu Dhabi and the Louvre Paris, the ‘Birth of a Museum’ reveals the growth of a much closer bond between the two institutions. Importantly, the works in the exhibition reveal a dialogue that brings the museums together while breaking traditional cultural boundaries. Moreover, the Louvre Paris’ ‘Birth of a Museum’ exhibition aims to show how the museum is helping the formation of the national collection of the Louvre Abu Dhabi. Since the Saadiyat show, around 30 new acquisitions were added to ‘Birth of a Museum’. In addition, many of the key pieces from the Abu Dhabi exhibition are on display in Paris. These include the 4,000 year-old Bactrian Princess from Central Asia, LAD 2009-001, Louvre Abu Dhabi’s first-ever acquisition, a painting made in 1922 by Piet Mondrian along with other important works by painters such as Gauguin, Manet, Picasso and Magritte. But contrary to the Abu Dhabi exhibition, the

in Residence

Artist

Paris show employed a more straightforward and chronological approach to curating; it did not show off the local collection, but revealed significant works of art that have played an important role in the development of art history.

Universalist Aims ‘Birth of a Museum’ represents the Universalist impulse that runs through both museums. The Abu Dhabi museum intends to become the ‘the first universal museum in the Arab world’. Its mission is to exhibit objects from across cultures, geographies and time periods while exploring universal themes. The Louvre Abu Dhabi’s exhibition ‘Birth of a Museum’ sought to interpret the idea of universality as a framework within which to explore contact and exchange. This is very much in accordance with its mission statement, as it is with the vision of developing Abu Dhabi as a world cultural hub. ‘Like the mission of the Louvre

Abu Dhabi, the ‘Birth of a Museum’ exhibition showcases a universal understanding of the world,’ says Hissa Al-Dhaheri, project manager at the Louvre Abu Dhabi. ‘The museum is about bringing people together and seeing our similarities through the arts – seeing what we have taken from one civilisation to the other through artistic creation. The establishment of the Louvre Abu Dhabi is the result of an intergovernmental agreement made in 2007 between the UAE and France. It is a relationship that seeks to place emphasis on the importance of artistic exchange across cultures. The museum’s senior project manager Celine Pouyat speaks favourably of this UAE-French relationship, saying it allows for a ‘new way to look at the collections and start a narrative from scratch.’ The Louvre Abu Dhabi will thus develop its own permanent collection that will be enriched by loans from French museums including the Musée du Louvre, Musée d’Orsay, Musée du quai Branly and the Centre Pompidou.

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Images courtesy of Louvre Abu Dhabi-Jean Nouvel Design

Enrichments have already been made. The Louvre Abu Dhabi recently announced approximately 300 loans that will come from major French institutions for its opening year. The works are set to complement the museum’s growing collection and universal narrative. They include Leonardo da Vinci’s Portrait of an Unknown Woman (circa 1495), also known as La Belle Ferronnière, which is being loaned by the Musée du Louvre, Edouard Manet’s The Fife Player (1866), Claude Monet’s The Saint-Lazare Station (1877) to be loaned by Musée d’Orsay et de l’Orangerie, a rare salt cellar in ivory from the Benin Kingdom, from Musée du quai Branly and Henri Matisse’s Still Life with Magnolia (1941) from Centre Pompidou. ‘These outstanding loans from our French partners represent the collaboration and exchange, symbolic of Louvre Abu Dhabi and its progress to date,’ says HE Sheikh Sultan bin Tahnoon Al Nahyan, Chairman of Abu Dhabi Tourism & Culture Authority (TCA Abu Dhabi), the organisation with the mandate for Louvre Abu Dhabi. ‘This will be the first time many of these works will travel to Abu Dhabi or even the Middle East, and are a rare opportunity to see important art

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from French museums in dialogue with the Louvre Abu Dhabi’s collection. Ultimately, we hope to offer visitors a unique experience from a new perspective that underlines the universal spirit of the entire project.’ The selection was overseen by TCA Abu Dhabi, Agence France-Muséums (AFM) and the lending museums in line with the museum’s scientific and cultural programme. What better an opportunity for local residents of the UAE to have than to be able to witness such masterpieces in the UAE? Yet while the exchange certainly does profess the support of the Musée du Louvre, what will be fascinating to observe is how the Abu Dhabi museum effectively merges works by its imminent sister with those from its own territory – the Middle East. The cross-cultural and intergovernmental agreement that was set up in 2007 will be a major point to follow as well as see develop. ‘The museum focuses on universal art and how Abu Dhabi has always been a major crossroad for trade between cultures,’ says Al-Dhaheri. Universalist objectives are indeed inspirational and all the right aims are there, but the challenge will be how to execute them in a culturally sensitive way.

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Highlight

Travel

The

Chanel D i a ri e s A thirsty traveller and self-proclaimed culture enthusiast, Coco Chanel could find inspiration in anything from a new personal encounter to the flair of a city.

Looking back at the life of Gabrielle Chanel, it is clear to see that her greatest ideas can be credited to the many places she visited in her lifetime. Last month, we flew to Seoul, South Korea for the unveiling of the latest Culture Chanel exhibition, The Sense of Places. Held between August 30th and October 5th at the Dongdaemun Design Plaza, the centerpiece of South Korea’s fashion hub, the much-coveted exhibition is quite simply a retrospective of Mademoiselle Chanel’s life story that leads visitors virtually from Auzabine to Deauville to Paris to Venice – the towns and cities that dictate the Chanel creative language, both past and present. Once again the maison called upon Jean-Louis Froment, the curator of previous editions of Culture Chanel, to sketch the contours of Gabrielle’s world through more than 500 artefacts including childhood photos, clothing sketches, gifts, manuscripts and archives as well as numerous fashion, watch and perfume creations. We look back at these places in which she lived and loved, unveiling Coco’s creative journey through her secret twists and turns.

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Behati Prinsloo in CHANEL Spring/Summer Ready-to-Wear collection 2007

Photography Douglas Kirkland Collection, Los Angeles

Gabrielle Chanel on the staircase, 31 rue Cambon à Paris, 1962

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Travel Photography  Camilla Åkrans/Elite Paris, Bibliothèque nationale de France Collection, Paris

The Early Years in Auzabine Born Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel in 1883, Gabrielle was just 12 when her mother died and she was sent to live in the covent of Auzabine. In many ways, growing up here was most likely the biggest influence on her designs and not only did she learn to sew, she has since credited this ancient Cistercian abbey as the essence of her style. Much later on she would dress women in the little black dresses with white collars, reminiscent of the orphans’ uniforms. Similarly it is said that her iconic double-C logo was inspired by the design of the stained glass windows, while the importance Chanel placed on fragrance harkens back to her sad days at Auzabine. At 18, too old to remain at the orphanage, Gabrielle left the nuns and set up home in Moulins.

Moulins,Compiègne and her First Love A keen performer, Chanel spent her evenings singing in concert cafés where she won notoriety among the military men who were responsible for her now infamous nickname, Coco. It was here she met wealthy textiles heir Etienne Balsan – the first of many men who would play a role in her success. Gabrielle spent the next three years living the high life in his chateau Royallieu near Compiègne – a time of wealth and leisure financed by a large private income. Chanel quickly began to develop her own personal style, a masculine yet chic blend inspired by Balsan’s wardrobe - a striking contrast to the Belle Epoque hats and dresses that were worn by the elegant ladies of the time that quite simply, lacked comfort.

Qui qu’a vu Coco - complainte canine, 1878

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Midnight in Paris

Beside the Seaside: Deauville While Chanel is often associated with the glamour of Paris, it is the seaside resort of Deauville that kick-started her standout style. The setting for her second boutique which opened in 1913, everything about Deauville inspired Chanel. From the races and the yacht harbour to the tennis courts, the sandy beaches are even said to be behind her love of the colour beige. Gabrielle was quick to found a completely new kind of fashion that was sporty, comfortable and individual. Think tailored beach pajamas and, at the time, scandalous swimwear, she quickly led women to defy the long established conventions of fashion with her relaxed and modern vibe. Gabrielle’s affair with Capel lasted more than nine years and even his marriage to English aristocrat Lady Diana Wyndham couldn’t extinguish the flames. When he died in a car accident in 1919, her devastation led her to pastures new.

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Boy Capel as a centaur tangoing with Gabrielle Chanel , 1913

Collection Yves Aublet, Éditions Succès  Martin Gouyou-Beauchamps Collection, Paris

Everything changed for Chanel in 1908 when she began an affair with Balsan’s close friend, Captain Arthur Edward ‘Boy’ Capel – the future and consistent love of her life. Quick to move her out of his friend’s estate and into her own apartment in Paris, Capel helped Chanel open her first boutique at 21 rue Cambon. It was here she sold her hats to stylish French ladies who were knocking down her door for a chance to be part of this new and exciting fashion movement. Indeed Capel’s own sartorial style played a part in the conception of the new Chanel look which was attributed to his sophisticated design sensibilities.

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Travel Gabrielle Chanel before the Lido, Venice, 1936

A Breath of Fresh Air in Venice

Elegant women in Deauville, 1913

Outside of France it was Venice that became a major source of inspiration for Chanel. She first visited the Italian city in August 1920 with the famous muse Misia Sert and her Catalan painter husband José María Sert. Here she discovered the treasures of St Mark, an evangelist represented by a winged lion which soon became the iconic motif for Chanel jacket buttons, bag clasps and jewellery. As a fierce Leo, Gabrielle was entranced by the beauty of the Doge’s city which is inextricably linked with so many of the other Chanel signatures still popular today including the chunky Byzantine crosses often recreated as costume jewellery and inspired by the gold adorning the churches and mosaics of Torcello.

Meet the Russians: Biarritz Having opened her first fashion house here in 1915, Chanel whiled away many days in the luxurious seaside town. Thanks to her popularity with Russian aristocrats, it was here she met her next conquest, Grand Duke Dmitri Pavlovitch. This relationship marked a turning point in the history of the Chanel brand as it led to the birth of the signature Chanel No 5 perfume which Gabrielle entrusted to Ernest Beaux, a French perfumer to the tsars of Russia and a good friend of the Duke. The Russian influence in her designs, including inspirations from their traditional clothing as well as military uniforms, was also drawn from this period when she called upon Russian avant-garde artists when creating Tissus Chanel in 1928.

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Long Live the United Kingdom Gabrielle’s relationship with Pavlovitch faltered in 1923 when she began an affair with the Duke of Westminster, affectionately nick-named Bendor. Her penchant for adopting her partners’ clothes continued as she borrowed his tweeds during her stays at his Scottish stately home, transforming them into stylish sporting garb for women. It was here that the iconic tweed jackets and suits were also born with fabrics sourced from a Scottish tweed mill. Similarly inspiring was her time spent at Bendor’s second home in Cheshire however this time it was the footmen and butlers who caught Gabrielle’s eye – she transformed their striped waistcoats into what became known to her fashion-forward followers as ‘Chanel’s English Look’.

While Gabrielle’s relationships floundered – Bendor left her in 1929 to marry young Englishwoman Loelia Ponsonby – her career was going from strength to strength and as luck would have it, she was introduced to Polish film producer Samuel Goldwyn in 1930 while in Monte Carlo. Gabrielle went on to design clothing worn on screen by Gloria Swanson in Tonight or Never (1931) and for Ina Claire in The Greeks Had A Word For Them (1932). While her experience with American movie making left her with a bad taste in her mouth – she was later quoted saying ‘Hollywood is the capital of bad taste…and it’s vulgar’, the experience opened a number of A-list doors for her and some years later Marilyn Monroe would confide in wearing only a few drops of Chanel No 5 before going to bed. The relationship between Chanel and the New World was well and truly established.

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Dorothea MacGowan wearing a suit from CHANEL Fall/Winter Haute Couture collection, 1960

Movie Making from Monte Carlo

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Travel Constellation du Lion necklace, 2012

CHANEL Collection, Paris. CHANEL Joaillerie, CHANEL/photo Patricia Canino

Today Gabrielle’s travels still influence Chanel collections to this day, apparent in everything from haute joaillerie to RTW. Perhaps her biggest fan, Karl Lagerfeld referenced Chanel’s Venice years in his Cruise 2010 collection when he whisked fashion press to the Venetian lido for a catwalk show brimming with lion-print dresses and masquerade masks. Similarly his 2013 resort collection was inspired by Mademoiselle as Karl tipped his hat to the founder with looks that emulated her debut collections. ‘I tried to capture moods from what she did in her early days,’ he said of the collection. ‘Suddenly I liked the limited Chanel palette with beige, off-white, ivory, black and blue marine and navy blue.’ In fact, her influences from Venice have worked their magic on a number of recent collections such as the 2013 haute joaillerie collection ‘Sous le Signe du Lion’. Marking the anniversary of Coco’s 1932 collection, one of the most popular pieces among the 58-piece range was the ‘Lion Celeste’ brooch in white gold and diamonds that represents the lion of Venice found in Coco’s apartment. Chanel’s 2012 Coco Noir scent also hails from Venice, with Italian velvet a recurring motif. Created by Chanel’s legendary ‘nose’ Jacques Polge, the scent has a Venetian cabinet of ingredients combined with white musk, bergamot and Bulgarian rose all housed in a dark, mysterious bottle. Gabrielle’s trip to Dallas in 1957 was behind Karl’s Métiers d’Art collection in 2013, a city she visited at the invitation of Stanley Marcus – the brains behind Neiman Marcus. When unveiling the collection, Karl even retraced Chanel’s steps as she reopened her Paris couture house in 1954 through a short film he wrote and directed entitled The Return. The queen of culture and the only fashion designer listed on Time magazine’s list of 100 Most Influential People of the 20th Century, we’re sure Gabrielle’s legacy will continue to inspire for years to come.

Black dresses with white trim from CHANEL 1958 Fall/Winter Haute Couture, 2005 Fall/ Winter Ready- to-Wear and 2013 Spring/Summer Readyto-Wear collections

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in culture

of Style Sitting front row and topping many of the season’s bestdressed lists, creative director and street-style regular Sofia Sanchez Barrenechea oozes elegance wherever she goes. Born in Buenos Aires and residing between Paris and New York, she takes MOJEH through her day-to-day musings.

Sofia Sanchez Barrenechea

What’s the first thing you do in the morning? Turn off my alarm and set up the snooze option for some extra sleep | What are your everyday wardrobe staples? Jeans and a leather jacket | What are you going to be wearing this winter? Big coats, black boots and lots of scarves | What books are on your beside table? How to be a Parisian by my friend Caroline de Maigret | Do you have an everyday motto? Enjoy and have fun! | What does style mean to you? I normally dress the way I feel, without thinking if it’s stylish or not… I look at it as a form of expression and how I feel that day | In what ways does your Argentinean heritage and culture influence your style choices? Most of my accessories are from Argentina and I wear a lot of accessories every day | Where’s your favourite place? Patagonia | Who are the up-and-coming Argentinean designers we should look out for? Odraz Vesmir, THEM, Aracano and Dubié | What’s your average day like? An early workout, big breakfast, work in the morning, ideally lunch with a friend or two then back to work, meetings and then dinner with my boyfriend and/or girlfriends | What’s the best piece of advice you’ve ever received? Pursue your dreams - even if all odds are against you | Who is your all-time favourite designer and why? I don’t have only one- fortunately, a lot of talented people inspire me. I love what the girls from Rodarte do as much as what Pierpaolo and Maria Grazia from Valentino are also doing | What’s the best part of the fashion industry? The amour of talented people that are in it | What are your ambitions for 2015? To find a balance between hard work and a more relaxed schedule!

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Image courtesy of Pascal Le Segretain, Getty Image courtesy of Patrick Bennett, Corbis Image courtesy of Dimitrios Kambouris, Getty

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Sofia Sanchez Barrenechea sat front row at Michael Kors SS15 show with Poppy Delevingne, Jessica Hart, Alexandra Richards, Olivia Palermo and Hannah Bronfman.

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Photographed by Adam secore

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