ISSUE 24 by MOJEH

JAN / FEB

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WHERE BEAUTY BEGINS

14 Chairman SHAHAB IZADPANAH

EDITORIAL

PUBLISHING

Editor in Chief MOJEH IZADPANAH

Publishing Director RADHIKA NATU

Associate Editor SHERI IZADPANAH

Publishing Assistant DESIREE LABANDA-GAVERIA soheil Najafian razavi

Assistant Editor KELLY BALDWIN

Subscription Assistant gracelyn gabriel

Digital Assistant Editor Jake Hamilton

Paris Representative GHISLAIN DE CASTELBAJAC

Guest Fashion Editors Guillaume Boulez

Senior Advertisement Manager Pamela Bayram Cleave

Fashion Writer susan devaney

Advertising Inquiries Tel: +971 4 454 20 50 Tel: +971 4 425 79 79 Email: advertising@mojeh.com

Digital Editorial Assistant Christopher Prince Junior Editorial Assistant CHarlotte codd

Subscription Tel: +971 4 454 20 50 Email: subs@mojeh.com

Editorial Contributors Oliver Robinson Mehrnoush Shafiei

LOUIS FOURTEEN FOR MOJEH

ART

Concierge Service Management ASSMA AHMED

Producer LOUIS AGENCY

Head of Lifestyle OLGA KOVALCHUK

Art Director AMIRREZA AMIRASLANI

Corporate Manager JUBRAN HAMATI

Digital Strategy LOUIS AGENCY

Manager IT Division Ali Roman

Contributing Photographers Anthony Arquier Christophe Donna Pieter Henket sarvenaz hashtroudi

Senior Stylist MARIAN GIRGIS

Cover photographed by Pieter Henket, model wears Lanvin, Sharon Wauchob and Versace.

Published under HS Media Group FZ LLC Registered at Dubai Design District Building No. 8, Offices 212 P.O.Box 502333, Dubai, UAE. WWW.MOJEH.COM Louis Fourteen for MOJEH Follow us on Twitter @MOJEH_Magazine MOJEH Swiss Representative Office: Rue de Rive 4, 1204 Geneva, Switzerland Average qualified circulation (January-June 2014): 14,184 copies. For the UAE printed by Emirates Printing Press LLC. Distribution- UAE: Al Nisr Distribution LLC. Qatar: Dar Al Sharq. Bahrain: Jashanmal & Sons BSC (C). Oman: United Media Services LLC. Lebanon: Messageries Du Moyen-Orient The publishers regret that they cannot accept liability for error or omissions contained in this publication, however caused. The opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessary those of the publishers. Readers are advised to seek specialist advice before acting on information contained in this publication which is provided for general use and may not be appropriate for the readers particular circumstances. The ownership of trademark is acknowledged, therefore reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. All credits are subjects to change. Copyright HS MEDIA GROUP FZ LLC 2011

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M o j eh C o ntent s

SOCIETY 30. Who’s That Girl? She’s cool, fashionable and a rising street style star. We delve into the daily musings of Amsterdam-based blogger Linda Tol.

31. Celebrated Woman in Society Striking a balance between work, life and family is no easy feat. We find out how successful businesswoman Farah Gokal-Ghazzawi manages to do it as she invites us into her home.

34. Personally Yours As Louis Vuitton celebrated their 160th anniversary to mark their monogram we joined the multitude of famous faces as they partied in true LV style in New York City.

FASHION 48. Their Year

76. The Everywoman

Who will be the creative industry’s champions of

Hollywood’s Nicole Kidman has had a career spanning

2015? Peruse our pickings of stars in the making

decades. As she helped launch Omega’s new creations,

for the year ahead.

she shares some of her success secrets with us.

60. My Style Story

82. Man of the Hour

Have you ever wondered how it all began for Dubai-

Tommy Hilfiger has been designing since the Sixties. As

based businesswoman Zayan Ghandour of S*uce?

he takes a trip down memory lane for SS15 we speak

She shares her own incredible story with us.

to him about his billion-dollar business.

68. Flying Solo

86. Game Changer

He’s one to watch for the year ahead. Find out

It’s a sports world after all. We discuss why society’s

why Sicilian designer Marco de Vincenzo will be

current obsession with the trend looks set to stay

on everyone’s go-to list.

throughout the year ahead.

ACCESSORIES 122. Madame Butterfly She’s a sculptor, not a designer. We chat to Cindy Chao about traditional practice, sculpting pieces of art and marking her anniversary.

128. My Dark Valentine As Valentine’s Day is annually celebrated, turn to the dark side with our shoot on bejewelled gifts.

132. A Retro Remake As the Seventies makes a comeback across popular culture, we take a look at its retro remake in high jewellery.

BEAUTY

CULTURE

138. sporting season

158. Artist in Residence

Bring in the New Year with a little change. Peruse

With his latest exhibition The Rose House in tow,

our inspiration moodboard to find a beauty look

we speak with accomplished artist Tom Young

that suits you.

about direction and vision.

144. Facing Facts

162. Creature Comforts

What we eat now will show on our faces in ten

Founder and creator of Bambah Boutique, Maha

years’ time. MOJEH contributor Oliver Robinson

Abdul Rasheed takes us around her home to share

investigates our growing complexion concerns.

a few of her favourite things.

148. In The Midnight Hour

166. Tribal Tranquilities

We discuss the dangers of eating late at night, and

Take to new lands this year to rid yourself of those

finding a food routine with Dubai and Munich-based

January blues and escape to the orange-tinged

Metabolism Expert Caroline Bienert.

landscapes of Africa. Find out why Kenya’s calling.

plethora of styles to sail through in. For your yachting adventure look to princess-shaped dresses, aquatic hues and a welcoming update on stripes. And when you’re away on an Arabianfused retreat come Valentine’s weekend, the burnt and brisk shades of Tory Burch are a must. For an intoxicating take on the season, turn to Saint Laurent’s Psych Rock collection and watch as Hedi Slimane goes west in the

New Lands, Photographed by Pieter Henket

Welcome

Afresh

MOJEH’s

first

coolest of ways. And while it may be a cliché

wipes away any groans of the

(although, importantly, cliché’s are

January blues, and stands us in

coined with good reason) a new

good stead for the year ahead,

year is time to evaluate and adjust.

looking towards opportunities to

We tend to punish ourselves after

come. Celebrating the joys of new

the festive season – plenty of

beginnings and a time of year that

spending, eating and fun, with

offers the most promise, we focus

little exercise – the key, instead, is

on fresh and reawakened visions,

to view it as a welcomed breather

from fashion and beauty, through

from your year-long routine and

to fitness.

get back into the saddle with

V i s i o n s

edition of 2015. An issue that

and

a couple of tweaks in tow. In

reimagining unites many of this

sense

voyage

our fashion story, New Lands,

season’s cruise collections as

we take to the great outdoors

we witness a wash of stunning

with this season’s styling (add

style updates. From the Seventies

some ponies thrown in for good

revival at Miu Miu and Louis

measure). That sentiment lives on

Vuitton, or a new twist on tie-

throughout the issue as we lean

dye at Nina Ricci to the current

towards escapes that encourage

penchant for splashing names

less luxury and more living, and in

across dresses, as displayed by

Health and Beauty we investigate

Fendi and Mary Katrantzou, the

why our routines today will affect

past paints our future. Where

our future in ‘Facing Facts’

others in colder climates are

On a more personal note, January

waking up to darkness, we’re

also signals the start of a big

still embracing long days, crisp

year for MOJEH as we move

sunrises and starburst sunsets.

from bimonthly to monthly and

So for us, the dreamy visions

relaunch MOJEH.com in order to

of summer brights and spring

keep you well versed in all things

escapes, which took hold of the

fashion and lifestyle on a daily

collections, aren’t mere visions of

basis. Certainly no easy feat,

escapism but vivid realities. And

but hills we’ve climbed in light

whether you’re staying close to

of demand from readers and so

home for January or visiting near-

I look forward to you taking this

by destinations, cruise offers a

journey into the New Year with us.

Follow me on Twitter and Instagram @Mojeh_I and write to me at editor@mojeh.com

Mojeh Izadpanah Editor in Chief

MALL OF THE EMIRATES 1ST FLOOR TEL +971 4 3794902 THE DUBAI MALL FASHION AVENUE 1ST FLOOR TEL +971 4 3308205

E d i t o r ’s SN A P SHOT s

SUNSHINE T

Start 2015 with a bright outlook and the wardrobe to match. Let sunshine yellow step up and take centre stage amongst deep blues and neutral hues. Mary Katrantzou’s colourful and clashing prints will wash away the January blues.

8 9

Spray painted dress, Alexander McQueen SS99

I n sp i r ati o n SNA PSHOT

THE CURATOR Let the artist be your inspiration and stand out in the crowd. Expect a host of exhibitions kicking off in 2015 - including Alexander McQueen’s Savage Beauty at London’s V&A in March - meaning that you’ll most likely find yourself whiling away the days amongst the masterpieces. Become a walking piece of art with painterly-inspired pieces from Louis Vuitton and Marni.

Image courtesy of Victoria & Albert Museum

V a l e nti ne’ s N ot e

Gold, diamonds and red – because there’s nothing wrong with indulging in a cliché every now and then. Take heed from the stealth wealth movement this season and stay close to a timeless but slick mix of glassy reds and delicate gold. Whether you’re indulging in the palette just for Valentine’s or making it your year round classic, this trio adds oomph without overwhelming. Top: MESSIKA, white and yellow gold with diamond bracelets | Bottom: FENDI, L’Acquarossa Eau de Toilette | CHANEL, Le Vernis in Phenix | GUCCI, Lip lacquer in Iconic Red | MESSIKA, Spiky necklace

Photographed by Amber Gray

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M y S ty l i s h L ife

Alexandra and Emma, photographed in Comptoir 102

As we become more and more aware of what it means – for both the body and mind – to live a healthy, fulfilling lifestyle, we’re turning towards alternative and unique notions that break away from the ‘norm’. French-born Alexandra de Montaudouin and Emma Sawko are changing the way we choose to feed our stomachs and souls thorugh their concept store and restaurant Comptoir 102, unique in its offering to the region.

The

Concept

Queens

You both originate from Paris, what is it

of our days. Fresh food, plenty of sports, good

about living in the Middle East that best

friends and time with our family is our lifestyle.

suits your lifestyle? The weather! Being able to consistently live

How does this come into play in your

outside is wonderful. And, of course being able

beauty regimes?

to offer Dubai’s discerning crowds a unique

We don’t really think ‘beauty regime’, it’s a

concept like Comptoir 102 is a privilege that

way of life, natural. Something we grew up

we delight in every day.

with and won’t let go.

What lifestyle changes are you offering?

Do you prefer to workout indoors or

Our aim is to bring together good food, home

outside?

décor and fashion. The breakfast, lunch, tea

Definitely both, making the most of what the

and dinner we serve is meant to nourish your

outdoors already has to offer is great and of

body. We choose objects with a meaning,

course getting our heads down in the gym is

often carefully handcrafted. Our interior is filled

also something we both enjoy.

with specially selected pieces, which have a meaning, a story. This is nourishment for the

What aspects of your own lifestyle’s do we

soul. We want to offer healthy, organic and

see in Comptoir 102?

fresh food, like good old style home cooking.

We bring in to Comptoir what we would bring

It’s about getting back to the basics.

at home. You get to eat some of our mothers’ recipes and many of the brands of objects,

What’s your favourite time of day?

jewellery, and accessories you find there have

We’re both morning people, so for us it is the

been part of our life before. It is important to

early morning rise. You are most productive

us to know where an object comes from, how

in the morning and it’s definitely when we are

it has been designed and crafted.

the most creative. What’s your motto to live by? What rules do you follow in your own diets?

Love what you do, do what you love. Do it

Sugar, fast and processed food, are not part

everyday.

S t yl e I ns ig h t

Who’s

T h at G ir l ? Amsterdam-based blogger, Linda Tol’s platinum blonde bowl-cut is as famous as she is. We speak to the constant street style influencer about her fashion blog, finding inspiration and her plans for 2015.

What’s the first thing you do in the morning?

Where’s your favourite place?

I check my Instagram, have breakfast, change

New York City – I love the energy.

the colour of my nail polish and answer emails. Who are your current designers to watch? What are your everyday wardrobe staples?

Alessandro Enriquez, Amedeo Piccione and

A bag, sunglasses, jumper and sneakers.

Charlie May.

What are you adding this season?

Why did you start LindaTol.com?

Heavy knits, vintage denims, a long coat and

Next to my blog, I’m working as a trend-

wide-leg trousers.

watcher for L’Oréal Paris and I’m also a freelance journalist for Glamour Italia – I

What books are on your bedside table?

give presentations about styling and trends.

How To Be A Parisian Wherever You Are, by

LindaTol.com is my online portfolio. It’s about

Caroline de Maigret.

my style, my love and passion for fashion, beauty, my travels and my experiences – all

Do you have an everyday motto?

of the things I love in life.

Enjoy the little things. What’s the best piece of advice you’ve ever What influences your style?

received?

I’m inspired by daily life – my biggest source

Stay true to yourself.

through Instagram and Pinterest. I also find

Who is your all-time favourite designer?

inspiration from movies, music, art, food,

Dries van Noten, his work is more than fashion

fashion shows, magazines and blogs.

– it’s art.

What are your beauty must-haves?

You started out in fashion PR, what was the

YSL Kiss and Blush, L’Oreal Eau De Teint

greatest lesson you learned?

Foundation, La Prairie face scrub, Chanel Hydra

I learned a lot about fashion, the fashion

Beauty Nourishing Lip Care and Smashbox Eye

system, styling and communication. It was

Primer. When it comes to lipstick I love to try

with this knowledge I was able to create my

new products and right now, I’m addicted

own brand.

to Candy Yum Yum from MAC Cosmetics, Smashbox longwear lip lacquer and L’Oréal

What are your ambitions for 2015?

Color Riche l’Extraordinaire Liquid Lipstick.

This year, I started working as a freelance

For nail polish I always turn to Chanel, Dior,

contributor for Glamour Italia – one of my

OPI or Essie. The perfume I choose to wear

dreams has come true. I would love to grow

depends on my mood, but currently on my

and to expand my name worldwide, but I’m

table is: Fendi Furiosa, Chanel Coco Noir and

very happy to experience all the things I’m

Giorgio Armani Prive, Figuier Eden Fig.

doing right now.

Image courtesy of Cindy Ord / Stringer

of inspiration is street style. I love to browse

Celebrated Woman in Society

Farah Gokal-Ghazzawi Running a successful business and a household are two great tasks Farah Gokal-Ghazzawi takes in her stride. Since opening her cake company Sweet Stuff in 2009 with her sister, their Dubai-based business has gone from strength to strength. We speak to the Canadian-born businesswoman about striking the balance between work, life and family.

You were born in Canada, weren’t you? Yes, in Vancouver. You need to go! When did you move from Canada to Dubai? I didn’t move directly, I moved from the United States in…it’s been like eight years. Why did you decide to open Sweet Stuff? It actually started in my kitchen, about 7 years ago and it was just my sister and I, baking at home, because that’s the kind of things that we were used to growing up, cupcakes, brownies and cookies, very American desserts. And, we started literally in the kitchen, this dining table was covered in cakes and we’d send them out to people. So, you opened up your business once you’d moved here? It organically just grew because we had friends asking for stuff and then friends of friends, and people we didn’t know. We just created a brand from scratch. The cupcake business is a very saturated market, what do you offer people that is different? Well our bakery is, and the reason that we differ from the competition in Dubai, is that we’re very bespoke so we do everything, like, 90% of the things in our store are made to order. Every single item is designed specifically for the customer according to their requirements and you’ll be very surprised to know how seriously people can take their cake. We’ve also now started a healthy line of things. Why did you name it Sweet Stuff? I didn’t want to make it very cupcake specific, so that we could allow ourselves to evolve and we’ve done that, you know, we’ve evolved from cupcakes. People who want complex event cakes come to us to design and create them and that’s most of our business. Why do you think all of a sudden there’s a demand for a more healthy option? Farah Gokal-Ghazzawi, photographed in her home

I guess people want to have their cake and eat it! I

S o c i ety B ELLES

think that people are just more aware now and what I like about what we do is that there’s a time to indulge and splurge. For those occasions where you want to have something every single day we do now offer the Simple Stuff which is healthier things but still yummy. Did you always want to go into business with your sister? No, my background is in finance, I went to Georgetown University in Washington DC to do finance, I was a banker. It happened very accidentally, it was never a plan and you know, it’s just, I guess the artistic side of me. I’ve always done something artistic whether it’s painting, drawing, calligraphy, jewellery-making, you know, all kinds of artistic things. This is just another one of those things that I’ve picked up along the way. I’ve had no training or background in baking, nothing, neither of us have. We’ve just learnt as we’ve [gone along], you know, each step by step. The recipe for the cupcakes also has evolved, by just trial and error. Did you learn how to bake from previous family generations before you? No, no, not really because, again, we started in North America, a new generation of American/Canadians. We’re interested to know how the relationship dynamic between you and your sister works in business? My sister is a lot more disciplined than I am. So she’s very structured and she’s kind of the structure of the business. I deal with more of the creative angles and together we just make a team and make it work. In the Middle East a lot of businesses are led by sisters. How do you show your support for other women in business in the Middle East? My sister and I have done several classes to teach people how to design and decorate cupcakes. We’re really happy to support anyone that wants to get into a business and just give them our own insights and some help. What advice would you give to a young female entrepreneur that wants to open up her own business in Dubai? Definitely go for it because there’s room for everything and I think competition is really healthy. Dubai is great because it’s a relatively small market and a small territory with lots of ideas and lots of brands and lots of businesses. A lot of them are in the same field but the competition is so healthy, it keeps things really dynamic and cutting edge and no-one in any industry here can afford to get complacent. How do you manage to juggle a business with family life? Well I have four of these munchkins, you see them appearing one after the other [looks to her children and laughs]. It’s tough, it’s definitely not easy. You know you

have to just chill and take everything in your stride, step by step, literally that way and sometimes things don’t go right at work and sometimes things don’t go right at home, you just have to learn to inhale, exhale and keep moving on. You appear to successfully strike a balance between social, family and business life, how do you do it? You have to do it. You just have to carve out time...for each and every one. Do you get much sleep? I do actually because I cannot function without it. So I would rather not go out or attend an event or go to a party and make sure I get my sleep. That’s fundamental. What do you like to do during your downtime? It’s family time, exercise time, to work off everything that I’ve had to test and try! And do you hope that your daughters might follow in your footsteps and open their own businesses? I hope so. I mean I hope that they do whatever they set their minds to doing, whatever that may be, and just welcome the challenges, whatever they choose. What would you say has been your most memorable moment from when you started up until now? I mean the highlight is just to see how we’ve grown and how our client base has grown and how many people keep coming back to us. I think we haven’t adopted the model of expanding and mushrooming into every mall. I mean we have a small boutique in Jumeirah 1 that is nestled in the older part of Dubai now – and we want to keep it that way. We keep it fresh but we’re happy just being the neighbourhood bakery and fortunately we’ve created a reputation around town, even in Abu Dhabi – we have clients from all over the UAE. Who or what influences your style on a day-today basis? I think that I take a lot of style tips from my kids because they’re always coming up with stuff and they put together things and I think that’s pretty cool. Designer-wise I wear a lot of Ayesha Depala, she’s my style hero. Have you known each other for a long time? We’ve known each other for quite a few years and every time I see her I’m always blown away with how great she looks. How would you describe your style? Casual, basic and comfortable. Do you have anything that you want to achieve for 2015? Just to be simpler, happier, and more peaceful. As long as everyone’s safe, healthy, happy then life is good.

S o c i ety F eatu re

Personally Y ours

Many fabulous parties are thrown in New York City every night, but celebrating the 160th anniversary of a fashion brand is not of common occurrence. With multiple famous faces in tow, Louis Vuitton partied in true style to mark its monogram.

Inside a glass cube positioned in the Museum of Modern Art’s garden on 53rd Street celebrities gathered. Celebrating the 160th anniversary capsule collection – six monogrammed LV pieces interpreted by six iconoclast collaborators. The cube tastefully featured the marquee monograms of each collaborator on the project. Five of the six artists were present: Frank Gehry, Cindy Sherman, Karl Lagerfeld, Christian Louboutin and Marc Newson. With a restricted guest list of only 160 – to represent its historic marking – guests entered the party to have their photograph taken by internationally acclaimed photographer Patrick Demarchelier. With each photograph immediately being posted to Louis Vuitton’s Instagram, for a personal touch. From Michelle Williams to Jennifer Connelly to Nicole Kidman, their own initials were carved into bold blocks and creatively positioned beside them. It didn’t stop there. The room itself was filled with references to the fashion emblem: from personally initialled napkins to LV-lit candles. Models Karlie Kloss and Miranda Kerr’s presence graced the party along with actress and It-girl Charlotte Gainsbourg,

Clockwise from left: Ashley Olsen and Christian Louboutin, Jennifer Connelly, Delphine Arnault and Karl Lagerfeld, and Charlotte Gainsbourg.

Photographed by Patrick Demarchelier

who fronted the campaign. Louis Vuitton’s creative director Nicolas Ghesquière was making one thing clear: the monogram is their mantra. Since the beginning the ‘class stamp’ has always been synonymous with French fashion house Louis Vuitton. But monogramming is nothing new as its creation first began around 350 BC. Over the past year the trend for personalisation, and customisation has experienced a rebirth. Nothing quite captures you, or belongs to you, unless it has your name on it. As the trend for personalisation continues to rise, it’s Clockwise from left: Michelle Williams, Karlie Kloss, Liya Kebede, and Nicole Kidman and Keith Urban.

the models who are leading the way. Karlie Kloss’s bomber jacket with her name emblazoned across the back lets you know who is wearing it, and more importantly who it belongs to. British model Georgia May Jagger is following in similar footsteps with her full name imprinted across her satin bomber. With ponchos and capes adorned in your own initials it’s the modern way of saying: It’s mine and I’m not willing to share. As our long-standing love for the monogram appears not to be fading any time soon, it begs the question: why do we love it so much? Writing our name on

38 Miranda Kerr

From left: Nicole Kidman, Nicolas Ghesquière and Catherine Deneuve.

From left: Marie-Amélie Sauvé, Will. I. Am and Hamish Bowles.

Stephanie Seymour

something seems very child-like and selfish. Maybe it stems from our childhood when we would write our name on everything and anything that we owned. From our school pencil case to our uniform, it was a method of practising our name and signature in the making. And, of course, it was always a way for us to separate ourselves from our siblings. Customised fashion brings back infantile memories, the good kind. A time when we were discovering who we were and what little precious things we owned. For 160 years Louis Vuitton has tapped into this feeling in one way or another. Owning a luxury initialled accessory or piece of jewellery isn’t throwaway or fast fashion. If your name is on it then it is forever. Keeping it personal on some level is the key to its success. As we’ve entered the 21st century, this idea of promoting our own brands has increased tenfold. From sharing our daily endeavours across our own Facebook page to posting our latest holiday adventures on our Instagram account is all part of the personal process of building our own brand called ‘me’.

Patrick Demarchelier and Karlie Kloss.

From left: Delphine Arnault, Patrick Demarchelier, Frank Gehry, Karl Lagerfeld, Cindy Sherman, Christian Louboutin and Marc Newson.

Sofia Coppola

And it’s classy. Over the years, the designers at Louis Vuitton have pushed forward with this idea. Placing your name on something is very regal, very posh. The aristocrats and upper class of society have never shied away from elegantly scribbling their heritage across their shirts or pieces of jewellery. Ultimately, the name-baring piece will be passed on from generation to generation. It’s a side step away from our current logo-obsessed society. Maybe the crowds want something a little different? Their interests have waned from wanting the next passer-by to know they’re sporting the latest designer accessory. This is different: this is personal. Why buy the latest offering from a campaign It-girl when you can have a bag with your own name on it? Seeing your name or initials written across something you own can be thrilling and exciting, and brands know it. What’s in a name? Everything that’s fashionable it would seem. With the marking of Louis Vuitton’s 160th anniversary they are simply reminding us that creating our own identity can be helped along the way with our own personal fashion item. Yes, it may be more than a little narcissistic or childish, but making people feel important or special rarely goes out of fashion.

Fa sh io n ban q ue t

THE LOOKING GLASS Look towards the past to shape your style future this New Year, as retro-chic gets yet another revival. Head to Miu Miuâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cruise collection for tips on how to use the swinging sixties as a means invigorate your wardrobe. Louis Vuittonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Petite Malle bag does just that, while soft pinks and vibrant blues MIU MIU

add a rose-tinted view to the past.

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SAINT LAURENT BY HEDI SLIMANE

DRIVE OUT WEST Hedi Slimane debuted a noticeably western rock chick vibe for his latest Saint Laurent cruise collection. Channel the Wild, Wild West with suede and fringing but turn up the glamour with diamonds and pearls. Even Diane von Furstenbergâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s iconic wrap dress is updated, lending itself towards both timeless and on trend.

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BUILDING BLOCKS Turn to shades that make a fiery impact. Who says that the cooler months have to equal darker tones? Whether you add a subtle kick of orange with Roksanda Ilincic or create a melting pot with Chanelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tasseled creations, block colours add punch

FENDI

to any outfit this winter.

6 5

1001 Arabian Nights The Middle East’s sartorial history is well and truly having a moment. Chanel’s cruise collection set against the backdrop of Dubai’s iconic skyline is a testament to the region’s power. Let this be reason enough to embrace all that is Arabian,

CHANEL

whether that is through decorative headwear or a keffiyeh inspired bag.

Fa sh i o n F eatu re

T h e i r

Year A new year brings about a lot of change. From fresh faces in fashion to new creative endeavours that push boundaries, introducing the new is a welcoming direction. As we enter 2015, weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve sought out the ones to watch for the coming year. From East to West, London-based designer Sarah Baadarani tells us about her latest collection as she continues to rise through the industry. New in town, Samuli Karala has recently graced our Dubai shores with his wonderful photography, and blogger Maritsa has too caught our novel eye. With a strong community spirit at its core, Sole DXB shares their high hopes for the year ahead. If discovering a new shopping venture is on your bucket list for 2015 then The Luxury Arcade is our recommended go-to place. And who is our major model in the making? Imaan Hammam. If you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t recognise these names now, we guarantee you will in a mere few months. As they say, a change is as good as rest.

Image courtesy of Martisa.co

From Blog To Blog

With a sleek and understated street style that is just the right mix of nonchalant and

Just when we thought that the fashion blogging industry

Kors – Meriç Küçük is part of a new wave of global fashion bloggers appealing to a

had reached saturation point along comes someone who

more sophisticated reader. In a sea of identikit fashion blogs Maritsa stands out for its

stands out from the crowd. We meet Meriç Küçük from

simplicity and vision, which is in no small part down to Meriç’s natural understanding

Istanbul, better known as Maritsa.com.

of her readers’ lifestyle and taste. As she explains, ‘It’s a personal journey and I always

high fashion – we’re talking the perfect blend of Maje, Salvatore Ferragamo and Michael

wanted to make my followers feel like partners’. Inspired by the inclusive fashion communities built by bloggers such as Garance Doré and always looking outwards for ideas (she notes Sheikha Al-Mayassa bint Hamad bin Khalifa Al-Thani as an inspiration in the art world), Maritsa is the blog to turn to for that breath of fresh air. As for 2015, Meriç has a new house and a trip to the Far East on her mind. Home furnishings and exotic travel? We can’t wait to see the pictures.

Designer Sarah Baadarani

East To West With a touch of sophisticated elegance gracing her designs it’s easy to see why Sarah Baadarani is one to watch for 2015. The London-based designer discusses her Middle Eastern roots, her creative process and high hopes for the year ahead.

Describe the process of creating your latest collection, what was your biggest source of inspiration and why? I kept on thinking about beautiful coastal shores, breezy summer outfits and having my feet in the sand. I got whisked away into imagining a collection that evokes a certain ‘joie de vivre’ and attitude of a shimmering Romy Schneider by the water. I started to look at the Pirelli calendar archives and revisited Bridget Bardot in God Created Woman and Schneider in La Piscine. In both films there is an air of classic style and graceful serenity that I wanted to translate into the mood of the collection. You’re based in London but have links with the Middle East and your line is stocked in boutiques in Dubai, Doha and Riyadh. How has your heritage influenced your design? My Middle Eastern origin is shown through the conservative sensuality of my clothing. I think Middle Eastern women have impeccable style and taste and I am proud to have them wearing my clothing. Where do you see the influence of Middle Eastern design in the collections presented in Europe and the US? I believe fashion in any region is dictated by varying degrees of personality, faith, politics, climate, and quite importantly demographic and socioeconomic factors. Middle Eastern woman have great style. They are very polished and conscious of their appearance and I think both themselves, Europe and the US capitalise on that fact. The American and European brands have a very long and loyal Arab customer base and I think each one inspires the other. Your line has grown in popularity around the world in 2014, what does 2015 hold for Sarah Baadarani? 2014 has been a busy and fantastic year, key to the continued growth and sustainability of the brand moving into the New Year. 2015 will be an exciting year for us!

Picture This From Berlin to Dubai, Helsinki to New York, Finnish photographer Samuli Karala takes us on a journey through his images, capturing fashion at its finest whatever the location.

Samuli Karala arrived in Dubai two years ago with the ambitious plan of shooting seven editorials in twenty-one days. Mission complete, he fell in love with the light, which he describes as ‘pure gold’, the food and, of course, the personalities he encountered, making the city a permanent fixture on his globetrotting calendar. A striking beauty shoot with Finnish supermodel Kirsi Pyrhönen is one of Samuli’s highlights and his campaign for The Emperor 1688 made an impact locally. He clearly has an instinctive touch, preferring ‘simple lighting and subtle expressions’, which lend a modern and clean aesthetic to everything he shoots. ‘There’s a lot of adrenaline when shooting and without exception something unforgettable always happens,’ he says. ‘Often when I look at a specific frame, it can take me back to the day of shooting, just like that a single image brings back all the memories made that day behind the scenes’. And as for memories not yet made? Samuli plans to bring an exhibition of his work to Dubai. We certainly hope to see this laidback photographer touching down on our

Photography by Samuli Karala

Styling by Christopher Insulander

shores more frequently in 2015.

In many ways Lama El-Moatassem is a pioneer of Middle Eastern fashion. One of the first in a generation of regional designers to begin following traditional Model wears Toujouri spring/summer 2015

seasonal collections, she has worked with both Matthew Williamson and Phoebe Philo at Chloé. Such priceless experience enabled her to step into the limelight herself with confidence and vision. Now, even as the Toujouri woman expands her horizons, the essence of the brand stays true to its roots. As Lama explains, ‘Today this woman is global, and her spirit lives within the Toujouri collection. It’s not about literal representation of all things traditionally Arab, but instead looking at these traditional references and re-engineering this language to adapt to our modern day’. With a growing base of loyal customers Lama takes genuine pleasure

A Treasure Chest of Style

in seeing women express their personalities through

Toujouri translates as ‘treasure chest’ and this couldn’t be a

create a credible industry that represents our region’.

more apt description for this jewel of a collection designed by

Toujouri is undoubtedly a game-changing brand and

Qatari national Lama El-Moatassem. We chart her success

with Lama at the helm the next generation of designers

as the conscientious designer goes global.

will be welcome along for the ride.

her designs. This wise designer also has a wider perspective, looking to developments like the formation of the Dubai Design and Fashion Council to begin ‘to

With Heart and Sole By filling a much-needed void, Sole DXB is bringing an urban culture to the streets of Dubai. With new projects lined-up, the progressive ethos is set to thrive further within the community in 2015 explains Sole DXB founder Joshua Cox.

What was the inspiration for setting up Sole DXB and was it something that you have always wanted to do? The inspiration for Sole DXB was to create a platform where all the hidden pockets of Dubai’s urban fashion and lifestyle culture could come together, celebrate and inspire each other. Sole DXB is a very urban and progressive project for Dubai, why do you think people have been so receptive to it and why is it something that the UAE needs? Urban is no longer seen in a negative light. In fact urban culture is always built up around relationship, community and creativity and Dubai as a city has a lot of that to offer. I think people have been receptive to it because after a while you only see one side of Dubai and you get blinded a bit. So being somewhere that brings that culture to the forefront is something people enjoy being part of. Sole DXB is a collective, how did you meet the other cofounders and what is it that you all have in common? We met like most friends meet. We all had a strong interest in fashion, urban culture etc. I think we all just agreed that rather than complain about the lack of this sort of thing in Dubai that we should try and do something about it, and it grew from there. How does the project crossover with the fashion world in the region? It’s a celebration of urban fashion which no longer is just your pair of baggy jeans, today we mix our sneakers with a suit or high end denim with a basketball jersey – urban fashion has become much more expressive in the region and we are a platform for those people and brands to meet and communicate. You recently staged an event at the Dubai Design District, do you have similar projects lined up for 2015? The plan is to keep it as an annual event, but we’ll definitely try and mix things up and keep it fresh.

Photographed by Naim Chidiac

Lina Mustafa

Enter the Arcade Fashion in Abu Dhabi just got a lot more cutting-edge. Lina Mustafa opened multi-brand boutique, The Luxury Arcade, last year and the store’s cleverly edited collection brings just the right amount of urban to the capital.

Our fashion hearts beat a little faster when a new boutique hits our radar and The Luxury Arcade is no exception. Founded by UAE-born Lina Mustafa, a young entrepreneur who epitomises the woman she had in mind as she began the task of creating the store. The Luxury Arcade is a second home to those who appreciate minimalism but aren’t afraid to experiment with something a little quirkier. Stocking brands such as Markus Lupfer, Peter Pilotto and Eddie Borgo it’s clear that Lina has an expert and fun-loving eye when it comes to curating the collections and perhaps this is where the boutique fulfils a need not met elsewhere in the capital. As Lina explains, ‘There are so many fashion conscious people that live here and have no outlet to really appreciate and experiment with fashion’. Driven by a desire for ‘creativity, quality and most importantly consistency from season to season’, Lina’s goal for 2015 is perfecting the selection of designer lines in the store and taking The Luxury Arcade online. It seems that for The Luxury Arcade, fashion is more than just a game.

A Major Model In The Making To land the cover of American Vogue before your eighteen birthday is no easy feat. Since achieving this high accolade, model Imaan Hammam, who’s unique and compelling features can be attributed to her Middle Eastern heritage, has been a rising star and it looks set to continue on throughout the year ahead.

• Name: Imaan Hammam • Age: 18 • Place of Birth: Holland • Heritage: Her father is Moroccan and her mother is Egyptian. • Current Location: New York City • Agency: DNA Models • Place of Discovery: She was discovered in Amsterdam’s Central Station in 2010 (at the age of 14) by the founder of CODE Management, Marit Simons. • Breakout Moment: For SS14 designer Riccardo Tisci selected her to open the Givenchy show. • Defining Feature: Her lion’s mane of hair. • Best Career Moments: She has appeared in American, Italian and French Vogue, including on the cover of the September issue of American Vogue’s multi-model cover. And, she’s already been photographed by Steven Meisel, Mario Testino and Terry Richardson. • Best Moment of 2014: A welcomed newcomer to walk the Victoria’s Secret Show.

Fa sh io n IN FO C US

Escape to Shanti Maurice on the beautiful island of Mauritius this Valentine’s Day. Lap up the luxurious surroundings at the pool in Emilio Pucci’s printed bikini. Whether you’re a sun worshipper or seek the shade, Clarins will help get you the golden glow that comes hand in hand with island life.

Shanti Maurice Pool Villa, Mauritius

The

HIDEAWAYS 6

For a weekend’s Valentine escape head toward the golden souks of Istanbul. Let an Arabian influence take hold by mixing regional talent with Chanel’s Dubai cruise collection. A Moroccan tile print clutch and Elie Saab’s golden elixir style come 2

together to create an aura of a modern day bedouin.

Istanbul, Turkey

Fashion

BAZAAR Image courtesy of Alan Copson/JAI/Corbis

58 2

Pick yourself up from the January blues and head towards a city with soul, where you can dance the night away in shades of red, making the heart beat faster. Transition from the beach to the bar and dance until dawn in Charlotte Olympia Roselinas while playing up

your pout with Sisleyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s striking shade of papaya.

Rio De Janeiro, Brazil

Carnival

Culture 7

Image courtesy of Antonino Bartuccio/SOPA RF/SOPA/Corbis

6 5

4 1 3

Retreat into nature to regroup and recuperate after the festive season and pare back to refresh your style as well as your mind. Let burnt orange shades beat down on your wardrobe, mimicking the California sun as it sets overhead. Relax your body and soul down by the sea in Lisa Marie Fernandezâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sporty swimwear.

Big Sur, California, U.S.A.

Wild

Spirits Image courtesy of Philip Lee Harvey/Corbis

S t yl e STORY

Zayan photographed in her home. Dress, ZAYAN THE LABEL | Shoes, CHANEL

My Style

Story By

Zayan

Ghandour

Hailing from Lebanon and establishing firm roots in Dubai,

business woman Zayan Ghandour has a success story behind her unlike any. After opening 10 S*uce stores in the UAE in 10 years, sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s only just getting started. From designing to buying, her sense of creativity and taste are unique to her. As she goes back to the beginning, she writes and shares her own style story.

I vividly remember when my mother brought the first ever catalogueshopping experience to Beirut when I was around 10 years old. At a time when there was no Internet and no personal shopper on speed dial. The concept of shopping in the privacy of your own home proved to be a huge success. I remember being impressed by how you could flip through pages and pages of fashion, and then all you would need to do is pencil down your choices and have it delivered right to your doorstep. I think this is when I started to think about how interesting the fashion business can be. I love doing things in unconventional ways and bringing in new ideas to revolutionise old concepts. When people used to ask me, ‘What do you want to do when you grow up?’ I always answered, ‘I want to be like my mama.’ But I guess I ended up working in fashion by sheer coincidence after I met my partners at a dinner party a year after I moved to Dubai. We spoke about how much we would love to

sleeping in a shelter all through the

have access to our favourite young

night and then go home to get ready

designers – the ones we only get to

to go to school in the morning. I think

buy from while on holidays abroad.

like all other Lebanese people who

The next thing I knew we were writing

grew up under such circumstances,

a business plan and scouting for a

I learned how to make the most out

location for our first store. I always

of every situation. So as children

talk about how organic and seamless

our parents would still take us to

the entire process of opening our first

do activities and go to the beach

store on Jumeirah Beach Road was.

as long as we made it back home

We did not have electricity in the store

before the curfew and as teenagers

for the first 10 days when we opened

we were allowed to go out with

so we had to rely on natural sunlight

friends and to parties as long as we

and close before sundown. We did

avoided the front lines and had to be

manual invoices and were the ones

back home at the first bullet sound

selling on the shop floor ourselves

we heard. When the situation got

until we found our first sales lady. We

worse and the schools had to shut

then worked out of the stock room

down, I moved to London where I

for the first year and then upgraded

finished my O-levels and A-levels. I

to a permanent table at the adjacent

love everything about London and

Shakespeare and Co Café where we

I think that is when and where my

would meet our suppliers. It was not

passion for fashion was nurtured.

until we opened our fourth location in

I always thought that I would end up

Dubai Mall that we moved to a proper

doing something creative, but I did not

office, which was a charming little villa

think it would be in fashion. I enjoyed

on Al-Wasl Road.

working with flowers and as a teenager

I am one of five girls. I grew up in

I would go with a friend of mine and

war-ridden Beirut where we would be

help at her aunt’s flower shop in Beirut.

Jacket, ZAYAN THE LABEL | Jeans, CITIZENS OF HUMANITY | Shoes, LANVIN

62 ins to allegations of political corruption and everything in between. I was constantly on call and had to deliver breaking news before printer deadlines on a daily basis. This was the best training I could have got. I learned how to be quick, efficient and creative, and the stories had to be sensational and capturing as much as they had to have all the correct facts. It is unheard of today that kids like learning Arabic language (unfortunately including my own!) but I was totally into classical Arabic poetry and literature. I still love to write in both English and Arabic languages, which is something else I took from my mother. She writes beautiful Arabic poetry and produces radio programmes, which are aired on radio stations across all the GCC. It all started when I did a small line of one-off T-shirts and sold them at a store in Wafi. I later found out that my partner Fatima would buy most of them for her and her seven sisters. When we first met I was overwhelmed by how much I always thought I would end up having

they loved the T-shirts and kept asking

a flower shop of my own.

the store to get them more. I made the

I graduated from the American

T-shirts myself at home and each one

University of Beirut with a BA in

was totally different to the other. The

Business Administration because

only thing they had in common was

my parents were adamant that I get

that they had an unexpected detail that

a ‘solid academic degree’ before I

made them so unique. I believe this is

pursued further education in areas

the unique selling point of Zayan The

that interested me. After I graduated

Label brand. It is easy shapes and cuts

I went back to London to take one

which have a detail that could not be

fashion course after the other until

found anywhere else – such as the

I had to leave and settle back in

custom-made fabrics we create, or the

Beirut. I began dabbling in making

embroidery or appliqué details.

clothes for my sisters and friends,

I always loved dressing up – whether

and started a small business of

for day or night, going to school, work

recycling wardrobes, where I would

or a night out. Living in Dubai has

use people’s old clothes and make

made this even easier as glamorous

new designs out of them. The concept

dressing is the norm. I always start

took off after I was interviewed by a

with choosing my heels and then

popular TV program in Lebanon, but

decide what to wear. But then when I

then I could not sustain doing it on

am relaxing with my girls, sweatpants

my own so I eventually stopped and

and trainers are all I need.

started working at The Herald Tribune

Every thing on every rail and shelf at

Middle East as a fashion and lifestyle

S*uce is a product that I would want

journalist. Very soon after I joined I

to own and wear, so it is safe to say

found myself joining the political desk

that the style at S*uce is very much my

and became a city reporter covering

personal style. It is unconventional and

stories, from demonstrations and sit-

eclectic but totally wearable.

I love telling stories about the brands we discovered way before they became mega famous runway sensations. For example: Mary Katrantzou, Ashish, Sacai, Simone Rocha and many others. We were actually the first ever store in the world to carry the Parisian-based accessories sensation, Shourouk, which, of course, went onto become a phenomenon in the world of fashion jewellery. This happens season after season, since we love to take risks on new up-and-coming brands, while larger retailers would normally have to wait until the brands become more established. This is probably the most exciting part of being a buyer for a concept store, you get to take risks on brands that you love and end up becoming a part of their own story. The same applies to countless regional designers that we supported right from the start. Having been a designer myself, at a time when

Top, OTHER STORIES | Skirt, PUSH BUTTON | Necklace, DYLAN LAX | Shoes, GUCCI

putting a local designer’s dress on a rail next to an international brand was totally unheard of in Dubai, I have

a piece of furniture or artwork in order

always believed in the potential of the

to fill an empty space, but rather we

region. That’s how we started with

bought what we loved and found the

people like Essa, OTT and BilArabi

right space for it. That’s why our house

(and many others) we’ve worked

still does not have the conventional

with along the way who have been

layout of sofas or tables that one

growing with us right from the start.

often finds in homes. We just never

We are like family.

went about it that way. S*uce was the

My very first buying trip was to London

first lifestyle concept store which had

Fashion Week where we went to buy

fashion, accessories and small home

brands which we found at stores

furnishings all under one roof.

in London but were not available

I love buying for all our S*uce brands

anywhere else in the world. I had

– my current favourite at the moment

already contacted some of the brands

is buying for Saucette. It follows the

but the majority we met we did not

exact same formula as S*uce, with

have access to their contact e-mails,

a curated mix of cool contemporary

so we either had to go meet them at

brands that aren’t available anywhere

their homes or in cafes. Others were

else, mixed in with regional brands

showing at The Exhibition, which was

and quirky accessories.

set-up in the Natural History Museum.

We never planned to have 10

It was beyond exciting.

stores in the first 10 years so I

Work every day for no other reason

really do not know where we will be

except that you love it.

in another 10 years from now. We

My husband and I travelled a lot

could have a S*uce flower concept,

before we had children and wherever

or maybe an ice cream parlour?

we went we used to come back with

The point is whatever we do has

loads of knickknacks and amazing

to be an organic extension of what

finds. We never thought we had to buy

we have been doing all this time.

Fusing tradition with modernity is no easy feat. With the powers of social media behind them, young Muslim women are inspiring a generation to wear the conventional hijab with their own personal style. Yasemin Kanar, 25, has over 92,000 followers on

one to really show me how to wear it. Who says

Instagram. As a fashion blogger and entrepreneur

there is only one way of wearing the hijab? As long

based in Stuart, Florida, her fans follow her day-to-

as you properly cover what needs to be covered,’

day fun styling of traditional dress given a modern

says Yasemin.

sartorial update. Like a select set of other Muslim

In accordance with the Quran and the Sunnah,

women in their 20s and 30s – who up until recently

Muslim women are taught to cover their bodies and

were relatively social media shy – we have watched

may show only their hands, feet and face. These

her orchestrate the use of social media as a platform

young cosmopolitan women are demonstrating

for fashion inspiration. ‘It’s so important to show

how fashion can be fused with faith by using social

girls different ways of wearing the hijab because

media channels to demonstrate to others the ways in

when I was just starting to wear the hijab, I had no

which to personalise hijabs in their own unique way.

Image courtesy of Lisa Vogl-Hamid

Faith

Yasemin Kanar

‘

These young cosmopolitan women are demonstrating how fashion can be fused with faith by using social media channels to demonstrate to others the ways in which to personalise hijabs in their own unique way.

‘Styling it properly makes us, as women, feel more confident and secure in wearing the hijab no matter where we go’, says Yasemin. Many of her YouTube videos in which she presents tutorials on how to style the hijab have been viewed more than a million times. HH CEO Melanie Elturk, 29, is the founder of Haute Hijab (a company based in both Chicago and Dubai) which sells modest clothing and fashionable hijabs. ‘Allowing women to be fashionable and beautiful with the hijab is important. The hijab represents modesty. It’s a sense of innate modesty that every woman – Muslim or not – has. They don’t need to look dowdy or old fashioned. We can still adhere to Islam while being stylish’, she says. Melanie’s Instagram page showcases an array of women wearing bright, floral and interesting headscarves in a multitude of ways – a million miles away from frumpy. As Instagram continues to gain popularity and more women turn online for hijab inspiration, it is these young ladies who are leading the way. ‘Older generations will either love it or hate it. Those that hate it feel that it will bring girls further from the correct way of Islam, whereas those that love it will appreciate all the help it has given to the younger generation in raising proud and strong Muslim girls’, says Yasemin. In a time where the current political climate may be unwelcoming towards the hijab, an online community may help to counteract this. ‘I feel like I’ve tried to build this community and this platform of support for women who feel like they have a place to come to where there’s an understanding and there’s nothing but love and no judgment. So I’m really diverse with the things I post [online]. Yes, I sell things, but my company is so much more than Image courtesy of Instagram, @hautehijab

just clothing or e-commerce,’ says Melanie. Fusing fashion, faith and femininity will challenge ideals in any part of the world yet where east meets west; a young group of women are rising to the challenge with success. ‘The hijab in itself is a struggle for so many women of all ages, so I personally feel if I can help them overcome that struggle and hesitation then why should I stop,’ offers Yasemin, who shows no sign of slowing down anytime soon.

Melanie Elturk

Say My Name

S t yl e NOTE

This season designers took family pride to the extreme. From calligraphy to typography to letters, spelling their name out loud was commonplace. When we were younger writing our name on our belongings was a right of passage. It said, ‘This is mine, so don’t touch.’ For cruise 2015 designers played with subtle and in-your-face pride of place naming. As fashion continues to play with the monogramming of our initials, the year ahead looks set for designers to stake their own claim by printing their name across their collections. Signs and symbols were the main inspiration behind Mary Katrantzou’s collection from last season. But there was no second-guessing or game playing this time around. The stand-out piece goes to the politely pink dress with a large letter K adorning the side. With a continuation of letter hosting, V-neck, A-shaped halter and an S-bend, all taking shape from the alphabet. A set of four handbags spelt out M, A, R and Y. Such graphic detailing only allowed for a simplistic style setting across the board. Rome is a city of many greats and Fendi wants us to remember that’s exactly where their roots lie too. Emblazoned across T-shirts, trousers and dresses, the words ‘Fendi Roma’ were on show. Karl Lagerfeld chose to revisit the house’s motif from 1988 and gave it a modern inking with some graffiti-style art, the Fendi family’s way of saying, ‘To Roma, with love’. We’ve witnessed Alexander Wang’s obsession with the name game for some time now, and following on from his fall collection this vision didn’t waver. Taking on a delectably streetwise vibe, his name gives prominence to a barcodeesque T-shirt with authority – looking like the colours had run in the washing machine as the design merged. Like Wang, Kenzo too continued placing their name across brightly hued bags – keeping it to a minimum this season. Monogramming our initials or placing our name on our clothes was once something for the rich and royal, but as monogram takes hold of our trend watch, showcasing a name is the best way to show which house you’re playing for.

Fendi

A Moment

With Max After decades of designing, following his vision and giving women what they want, Max Azria has had a longstanding career within the fashion industry. From the beginning to the present, he shares his personal memoir. I decided to become a designer in Paris, 15 years before I moved to America. I founded the BCBGMAXAZRIA Group in 1989. What I was launching had never before existed. I created a new platform in the industry by offering innovative, high-quality clothing at contemporary price points, targeting the modern woman. The brand embodies a true combination of European sophistication and American spirit. In 1998, I acquired French fashion house, Hervé Léger. This was the first time in history that an American designer had taken over from a French couturier. My wife Lubov and I re-launched the Hervé Léger label in early 2007 with iconic styles that have been embraced by celebrities around the world. We maintained the couturier’s heritage and signature bandage silhouettes, adding our own personal touch, which I like to call a ‘modern femininity’. Come fall 2008, we presented the Hervé Léger by Max Azria collection on the runway during New York Fashion Week. Our woman has evolved a lot since we first started – she has become more versed in fashion and open to taking risks with her style. This has allowed us to grow as a brand and become more versatile with our products. Lubov is responsible for developing the creative vision and style for our group. Together we have created our own model. We are different from the rest because we are different in what we do. We are a brand that doesn’t follow trends; we embody style. Our goal is to continue to expand our product offerings and explore new categories. We are in the business of making women look and feel their best. Throughout my journey, my mission has always been to inspire women to feel beautiful, confident, empowered and inspirational.

Flying Solo

S t yl e N ote

He’s bypassed the signature Italian forte of mixing baroque with commercial sex appeal. Instead Marco de Vincenzo, the rising Sicilian designer, is doing things his way by creating fusion and illusion. We speak to the man behind the magic about his latest collection for autumn winter 14. my job would have been a creative job.’ At the age of 18 he left his hometown for Sicily’s well-known Istituto Europeo di Design to continue his studies. Shortly after graduating he joined Fendi, designing handbags while forging a working relationship with Silvia Venturini Fendi. Now residing in Rome, he finds his daily inspiration from ‘everywhere and in every moment. Creativity is often unconscious.’ Reaching this unconscious state of mind has been a cultivated process, having previously confessed: ‘it took me a long time to figure out who I am as a designer.’ De Vincenzo ‘needed to experience and learn in the field. In doing so, I could have a limitless creative resource.’ This level of creativity is often an exhaustive resource for fashion designers as they churn out collection after collection, season after season, yet for de Vincenzo, it is simply embedded inside him. It is his Italian surroundings and heritage

Image courtesy of Marco de Vincenzo

that have stood him in good stead for this process. ‘Sparkling, visionary and dynamic’. One could easily

‘I produce everything in Italy and I personally go

confuse these handpicked words to describe the

into every workshop which helps me to realise a

man in question, not just his recent collection. After

new dream, every season. Being Italian consists of

devoting ten working years beside Silvia Venturini

having no limits in experimentation and in quality. I

Fendi, the 36-year-old designer has now captured

try to take advantage of this privilege’, he says. It

the fashion elite’s attention all on his own accord.

may have taken him many years to find his footing

Citing his greatest lesson learnt from the Italian

as a designer, but de Vincenzo still values the weight

fashion house as having the confidence ‘to dare’,

held by the starting point for a young professional

his own-name designs only work to amplify this USP.

within the competitive world of fashion. ‘I’d suggest

It’s the sway and swag that first capture your attention

they start by gaining experience in a big company,

as models strut the runway - the movement of de

because method and discipline will be a precious

Vincenzo’s designs are simply mesmerising. From

help if you want to have an individual career. Then,

rainbow-lit colours to tailored one-off pieces, each

stay humble. We’re not rock stars, but designers.

and every creation is glossed in illusion. ‘I wanted to

It’s a different thing’, he says with affirmation.

communicate the good energy that I was breathing

This modest mind-set toward favouring designing

in around me – and what better than a glittered

over reaching fashion stardom is wholly apparent.

rainbow to help express it?’ posed de Vincenzo.

The glossy and grooved waves of many of his

And a glittered rainbow is what he delivered. Playing

designs for autumn winter 14 are the pièce de

with lurex fabrics, pleats and geometric shapes, his

résistance of the collection. Marbled polka dots in

autumn winter 14 collection was a mesh of textures.

glittered circles and faded tartan in precisely pleated

Think fur lined jackets (a small nod to his former

skirts are equally exquisite. ‘My woman loves special

mentor Fendi) to sombre knitwear – the collection

items. After some seasons she still has to feel happy

moved along with as much effortless style as the

to have them: this is my goal’, says de Vincenzo.

creations. It appears that the creative process behind

With longevity in mind, such designs would be hard

the designs is a mirror image of his positive outlook,

to resist. Transcending seasons, they speak to the

too. ‘I allow my ideas to be free flowing in my mind.

woman now and forever more. History is also a

Every one of them will find the right positioning,’ says

vital component to him, his designs and his life.

de Vincenzo of his outstanding collections.

Nostalgically remembering his career highlight thus

Since his teenage years spent growing up in

far, de Vincenzo looks back to the beginning of 2009

Messina, de Vincenzo was drawn to the visionary

in his own design timeline. ‘My first high fashion

world and all of its freedoms. ‘I’ve been drawing

runway show in Paris. There, an important sparkle lit

since I was a child,’ he says. ‘In any case [I knew]

up’, recalls de Vincenzo. The sparkle has yet to dull.

S t yl e NOTE

dye Another Day

Nina Ricci

Adorned in home dip-dyed ensembles, the youth of America during the sixties were opposing authority through dress. Through music, fashion and popular culture the people refuted the war against Vietnam, and turned to the simple pleasure of creative crafts and making things. The hippy-dippy style of the sixties was born. With this newly adopted style came a more liberating outlook and an indefinite turn within society across the Western world. Tie-dye only hit the mainstream during the nineties. Splashed across T-shirts in an array of colourful choices – the simple tee had mass appeal. Since its inception, it has never strayed too far from the conventional. For cruise 2015, it’s taken a very grown-up aesthetic. Designer after designer took a typical type of tie-dye and added a little something else. At Nina Ricci swirls of dye in colourful shades adorned dresses like floating clouds creating an understated illusion to the naked eye. A nittygritty edge took hold at Alexander Wang with an artistic ink-splodge effect trickling through cardigans, tops and skirts, think: Downtown New York with a touch of Bohemia. As his proclaimed most important collection of every year, Michael Kors gave tie-dye a wash and spin cycle appeal. Gone are the mixed eye-popping colour combinations and instead his collection took to the skies. The light fusion of colours from gentle lilac to baby blue and powder pink, gave the trend a subtly soft touch. With swirls of dye and cloud-like print, it has a less-is-more modern approach, but still evokes a statementmaking effect. Designer Frida Giannini took a simple Gucci cable knit sweater and lambasted

Forgo the psychedelic sixties vibes of the Woodstock wonder years and embrace a new type of tie-dye in light swirls and soft shades. For cruise 2015, we’re embracing the new favourite from a wealth of designers.

with tie-dye in a weathered and deconstructed denim-effect. We’re all sure to be tie-dye converts come spring as designers have outsmarted us into buying into a sixties trend without the groovy vibe. Give the trend your own stamp of approval.

Coming Soon... Fashion. beauty. culture.

S t yl e NOTE

Mulberry

Suit

Suits took a decidedly laid-back approach to dressing for cruise 2015. With loose fits, smart tailoring, a touch

Jonathan Saunders

Nothing says spring has sprung better than a light white suit. With this offering from Mulberry, channelling a fresh appeal should come with ease. For outfit inspiration follow in the footsteps of the French and keep it simple. An all white-out is the only way to go, but keep the tailoring and fitting loose to add some understated ease.

A palette of muted tones should be mixed according to designer Jonathan Saunders. Look to dull grey, muddy brown and burnt orange for a colour combination that will bask in the sunlight. Complete this day-to-night outfit with a crisp white blazer for a laidback summer vibe.

You

Marni

of prints and patterns, and a combination of nonchalant colours, a less-is-more look is a must for the season ahead.

Erdem

The only way to wear gardenia-infused prints this season: bold, graphic and exotic. Forgo the pretty femininity of a flower girl and adopt a masculine musing instead. With the revival of the seventies this season, picking a palette of dark brown mixed with a touch of pink is perfect. Suit up and fix sharp, in a suit not intended for a wallflower.

Explore duality with a suit that speaks of femininity and masculinity in equal measure. By taking a black as night tuxedo and adding a dipping of florals, Erdem has given us the essential day-to-night outfit. With a spray-on like effect, the fusion of a splash of white is a perfect monochrome masterpiece.

T r e nd F o c u s

Wrap It Up By bringing the best bits of the runway to the region season after season, Co-founder and CEO of Designer-24, Sara Alemzadeh makes it her business to be bang on trend. Born in Iran and raised in New York, she’s a pro at taking these catwalk musts and making them her own so here she claims spring’s penchant for scarves, showing us a few ways to make the most of its timeless appeal.

Scarf, HERMÈS (worn as hair-piece) | Dress, HOLLY FULTON | Shoes, SAINT LAURENT BY HEDI SLIMANE | Earrings, CHRISTIAN DIOR

‘A scarf is the perfect accessory to dress up the most simple of looks and give your outfit that classic touch’.

‘Middle Eastern women are huge trendsetters and I love the way local women express themselves so elegantly through various interpretations of a scarf trend’.

Dress, CHRISTIAN SIRIANO | Scarf, HERMÈS (worn woven around belt)

Wo ma n o f S ty le

The EveryWoman As a Hollywood star, wife, mother and philanthropist, Nicole Kidman dedicates her life to others. We sat down with the star as she helped launch the next line of lovelies from Omega.

had the chance to be educated and explore fashion through costume designers and also the designs themselves and that’s extraordinary. And now, with two little girls who are really into fashion themselves, but their kind of fashion, I have to lift my game again. Cause they’ll come out and go, ‘Mh mh, not good enough.’ Why do you like working with Omega watches? I’ve been working with them now for ten years, which really says so much about them as a company. They’re exquisite as you all know. They take

What would you say about your personal style?

incredible care of you and you see that in their products. Every single time

My personal style has changed over the years because when I was

I wear one of their watches all my girlfriends are like, ‘Ohhhh, can you

starting out it was different. We didn’t even have red carpets in the same

get me one?’ They’re just beautiful and I think the Ladymatic in particular

sense as they are now. I remember when I first went to the Oscars and

will be the next big thing.

wore a tiny little Valentino dress that was really short. Because I was so new to it all, I was thinking, ‘Wow, let’s go to a party!’ It just happened to

You said recently that you’d like to write. Have you got any

be the Oscars. I then started to explore, because a lot of the time I was

projects in mind?

shooting in Europe and I started to build relations with different designers,

Yes, I have two screenplays that I’m in the midst of forming. One of them is

one of them being Galliano. And that was how I really started my passion

really almost finished and the other one is at the beginning. I get asked if I

in terms of fashion. I had an amazing beginning because I would go to

want to direct, and I’ve been offered things to direct, because I’ve worked

Alexander McQueen workshops and watch them work. I would later see

with so many directors now and I realise my own knowledge of film. I’ve

people like Stephen Jones working on his hats so I’ve been so lucky. I’ve

worked with new directors and with very experienced directors and the

greatest directors in the world. I just don’t have the time. So the writing

Where do you think today’s standard of beauty lies?

for me is actually cathartic. It’s something where I work through things I’m

I think it’s diverse. The great thing is that because we have so much

feeling, it’s almost how I navigate my way through certain things. I’ve had

access to so much information, the world is so much smaller, what

a very, very rough last few weeks, actually, and a lot of the way in which

we consider as ‘beautiful’ has completely broadened. And that’s great

I express myself is through writing short stories and I write in my journal.

and important because beauty is always, as they say, in the eyes of the

I’m not just interested in doing things for the sake of them being turned

beholder and ultimately, beauty is who you are. I think everyone would

into a movie. There are actually ways in which I express myself to myself

say that – somebody that you get to know, you see their inner light, the

and work out my life. I’m glad that I have that ability to do it. I don’t know

more and more appealing and the more and more beautiful they get

if I’m any good, but it’s almost like somewhere I can go and seek solace.

and ultimately, that is the most important thing.

Do you think it’s important to do all these varying roles and does your

Speaking of beauty, can we ask your secret to not aging at all?

style evolve with them?

I feel like I’m aging. I find the travel a lot harder now as I get older. I

Yes, I’ve always been slightly schizophrenic in my choice of roles. But that’s

don’t sleep as well as I used to. It’s those sorts of things. The thing I

because I’m also exploring psychology and I’m exploring the way that we

love about being older and particularly about being an older mother

as people operate in the world and the things we have to go through and

is the patience that you get and the wisdom that comes with that and

so I’m not interested in playing the same role twice. And I’ve done it and I

I love having mothered children in my early 20s and now mothering

don’t think I’m good at it. I’m about to start a movie set in 1929 and I get

children in my mid-40s. What I’ve learned as a woman and as a human

to play a character called Aline Bernstein, who’s a real woman and she’s

being is so beneficial to my ability now to raise my children. On the

amazing. She was actually one of the first set and costume designers. Very,

flip side of that, you don’t have the energy, the physical energy, you

very successful and she established the Guild in America. So I get to play

have the mental energy.

these fantastic characters. But I seek them out. I mean I really seek out very, very different things and I think also, as I dress, now – and we would

How do you see your life after so much success today?

all say this I’m sure – I dress very differently to how I did when I was 14.

I look around and I realise that I have seen the industry and the world

But I love that that’s a way that I can express myself too, through how I

change over the last couple of decades. I mean when I became, I

dress, as we all do. Do I feel relaxed or do I feel comfortable or do I feel

suppose, really well known internationally, was around Moulin Rouge.

like making an impression? Do I feel like being extremely risky? You know,

That would have been when I was probably at the height of my fame,

there’s different ways in which you can shake things up and I love shaking

so to speak. And that was a while ago now and I’ve seen the industry

things up. I think it’s important and I think it’s important for women these

morph and change. There’s a huge benefit in that because I’m able to

days to know it’s okay not to be like everybody else.

know why I do it, which is because it’s in my blood. And it’s a passion and I love to act. I don’t have to act anymore. I could choose not to. But

Where do you feel at home?

I love it. And how I judge success – Arianna Huffington wrote a fantastic

With my family. I’m so blessed. I have a husband and four children – two

book about this just recently – is not in power and money and all of the

grown and two little – and then I have an extended family. My sister has

things that you’re running yourself into the ground for, but it is how you

six children. And that’s my home. So wherever we are in the world we

appreciate life and how you live your life and how you’re able to rest.

bring a select number of blankies, pillows and candles but we can set up home pretty much everywhere. That’s a great thing. I did a film at the

After such a long and prosperous show business career, what’s next?

beginning of the year in Morocco and I had my kids in Morocco living out

I tend to do films that are either a short period of time or smaller roles

in tents and I first got there and I was sort of shell-shocked but by the

now in places that I’m interested in taking my children. So I’m doing a

end I was walking around haggling in the souks. To give my children that

film called Genius, which is with Jude Law and Colin Firth, again. And

international opportunity is important to me.

I have a film coming out called Before I Go To Sleep, which came out in England but it’s coming out around the world over the next couple

What is the most important thing to learn in life?

of months. It’s a thriller and I love thrillers. And then I have a kids’ film

Right now, it would be that you never know what’s going to happen so,

coming out called Paddington Bear, which is, I have to say, adorable.

carpe diem. Seize the day. Everyone tells you that and it’s the hardest thing to do because we always think, ‘Oh, worry about the future, the

How do you take what you have learnt over the years to help others?

past is the past.’ I think, ‘Oh, I must grab every moment and just live it’,

I do a lot of work for UN Women. So I have a field trip planned this year

because none of us know what’s going to happen and that’s devastating

for them and they had a big day last November, which is the day where

when you think about it but at the same time it really puts you in a place

they do functions in terms of cinema for peace and the thing that I’m

of being very, very present. Looking at everything as how precious it is

involved in, which is violence against women and eradicating that, so

and not worrying about all the things that can go on because we don’t

that’s something that I really love to do. I also do a lot of raising money

have any control. We really don’t.

for children’s hospitals, particularly for oncology for children who have gone through cancer treatments and things like that, which is a big thing

You have been the face of Omega for ten years, why do you think you

that I do in terms of fundraising. That’s my future.

have so much appeal for the consumers of the brand? I don’t know why. I know that I believe in their products. I believe in their

How does this lend itself to your relationship with Omega?

watches and I’ve had an incredible relationship with them for a decade

They’re also very philanthropic. They’ve been involved in UN Women for

now, which is amazing. I can speak very passionately about the watches

me. They’ve done a number of events where they will also make sure

and the authenticity of them as a company and the exquisite craftsmanship

that they’re giving back – particularly in terms of everybody’s different

that goes into their watches so. For me they’re sort of the supreme brand

charities. They have another one now, Orbis, which is a plane that

in terms of watches.

flies around the world delivering eye care to people with treatable and

78 preventable blindness. I’m going to get involved with that a little bit more as well. I really believe in karma for a company, and I think their karma’s really good. How do you feel when you put on an Omega watch? There’s so many different types of watches – that’s what so beautiful. Take the De Ville Butterfly, it has the butterflies on it, I feel it’s incredibly feminine and light and the Ladymatic just has such an opulent feel. If there’s a piece of advice that you could give your twentysomething or thirty-something self, what would it be? Live in the moment because you never know what’s going to happen. Having just lost my father, which is just devastating for me because I was so close to him, just live. And he lived like that. He was so joyful and I can sometimes worry and he would always say, ‘Nicci, don’t worry.’ And I so take that to heart now. He would just say, ‘Nicci, be happy.’ And that is how I’ve pledged to live my life from this point on because of him and what he gave me. And he was also – and I speak about this because it’s important for me because I’m his legacy now – he was also about the underdog. He was about always taking care of people who didn’t have as much or who were less fortunate. He was a psychologist. He was a giver. And that is what I hope he’s given me and my sister and that’s what we always say we will continue to do. We will live the way he lived, I had an incredible father. What do you do when you want to cheer yourself up? Hug my children. Kiss my husband. Make love, not war. And really, the simplest things can give so much joy for me. That’s one of the great things about getting older. I don’t need that much. I can look at a sunrise. I can go for a swim in the ocean, that makes my day. I can go and play in the park with my kids and when you’re 17, that’s like a chore, but at this age, it’s just joyful for me. And to see them I think also part of getting older is seeing the joy in others. And so much is being able to see them having fun and love life and love things. That’s probably why I’m an actor too because I like to see other people laugh and enjoy themselves and that gives me joy. That’s enough for me.

Amongst the many products in the Omega line, which products are your favourites and which do you wear the most?

What is the main thing you learned from your role in UNIFEM

I wear the Ladymatic the most. It’s wearable. But this is the De Ville

and UN Women?

(Butterfly) which they’ve now added a little bit more to and I think it’s

The extraordinary strength of the human spirit. That even under

exquisite. I was saying to Omega it’s so easy to wear because it’s so

enormous duress and even under enormous pain, and the way in which

light. The Ladymatic is a more substantial watch. But I’m fortunate to

women who I’ve interviewed and talked to have had things done to

have many of their watches. And they’ve just done a men’s watch, The

them, that you feel you would never survive, and they do and those

Dark Side of the Moon, which is exquisite, which is going to be my

people are the true heroes. Those people get to somehow move from

husband’s next present.

being a victim to a survivor and it’s an extraordinary feat. Something that I’m also really interested in in terms of filmmaking is the human

So what do you think about the new Butterfly collection?

spirit and the way in which we can survive because the strength of

I think it’s very feminine, which I know not all butterflies are female but

human beings is extraordinary. Even under enormous duress and

they look it. And I love how feminine it is.

what we can go through and still come out the other end and I’m fascinated by that, artistically, emotionally, psychologically – I’ve

What type of watch do you normally choose to wear?

travelled the world and interviewed women who’ve been victims of

I normally wear an automatic watch but I also love vintage watches. I wear

war crimes, been abused, had domestic abuse and still managed to

a lot of Omega because it’s steeped in history. They go back to 1848

seize the day. Still managed to push forward and accept the gift of life.

so they have some vintage watches that I’m trying to convince them to remake. Some of them. We’ll see if that happens. But they are beautiful

Is it easy to be part of a couple with two famous partners?

and obviously they’re not automatic but are exquisite because they’re

I think if there is an enormous amount of love. Yes, it’s not even is it

jewellery, like fine, fine jewellery. And who knows? Maybe I convinced

easy or hard, it’s just meant to be. And I am fortunate that I have a

them last night. Because I love the twenties and the thirties and they have

partner who is just an extraordinary man and that makes it incredibly

pieces from 1910, 1920, 1930, which I think would mix so well with their

easy. It makes me very, very grateful too.

modern watches. But we’ll see.

EVERYTHING IN MOJEH MAGAZINE IS AVAILABLE TO

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S t yl e NOTE

fall into

future

Photographed by Thomas Lohr

As the cruise collections invade our closets for the months ahead, the designs from pre-fall 15 are already occupying our minds, and wish list.

Nestled in the burgeoning city of Tokyo, models took to the runway clouded in a futuristic fantasy. The house’s ladylike vernacular spoke a different language for Christian Dior. An array of sequined turtlenecks slinked across bodies as Bar-dresses shaped an extended silhouette. Metallic coats in wax-coated cottons evoked an ultramodern Lady Dior. Wool sweaters with a touch of the Fair Isle and short plaid dresses worn with flat black boots gave a sartorial nod to the youth of Japan. Every ensemble was appropriately completed with Princess Leia-style hair. Staging their first-ever show for pre-fall in the capital city of Japan came as no surprise. Christian Dior has had a long history with Japan. In his autobiography, he recalls his love and fascination with the Japanese screens that took pride of place in his childhood Granville home. As the country continues to spread its hunger for luxury and fashion in the 21st Century, it requires an artistic director such as Raf Simons to propel it into another galaxy far, far away. ‘In Tokyo I think of the sliding together of things that are glamorous, of the urban environment as well as of the outdoors,’ explained Simons. ‘This contrast goes to make iconic women in iconic silhouettes and idea of projecting into the future.’ Ironically, Simons wants to design clothes we can face reality in, the reality of another luxurious fashionably futuristic world.

First Look

man of the Hour His success lies in being able to see the bigger picture. For designer Tommy Hilfiger his vision has ensured mass appeal decade after decade. We speak to the man behind a billion-dollar business about the sixties and his love of all things musical.

Alexa Chung

If it hadn’t been for the music Tommy Hilfiger would

the now infamous preppy logo in tow and a

never have entertained the fashion industry. It was

typical Tommy ad campaign, the classic-with-a-

during the hippy revolution of the sixties when

twist fashion formula was born. With help from

Hilfiger first launched into the world of all things

legendary ad-man and art director, George Lois,

fashion. Whilst trying to emulate the style of rock

the unwavering Hilfiger formula was founded.

legends Jimi Hendrix, The Who or The Beatles he

Hilfiger has never shied away from admitting

lusted after bell-bottoms and long locks of hair.

Lois’ helping hand in his success, ‘If I hadn’t

‘I was 17 and it was in the sixties. I loved music,

taken George Lois’ damn good advice 25 years

art and fashion. I would always want to have a

ago, I’d probably be poor today,’ he famously

rock star look. I wanted to look like The Beatles,

stated. Only straying far from this vernacular in

Hendrix, so I would wear bell-bottoms everywhere.

the ninties with an urban market appeal of hip-

I started a small business selling bell-bottoms but it

hop infused clothing, Hilfiger quickly retreated

didn’t work, I was in upstate New York’, he recalls

back to the all-American sport luxury look.

with nostalgia. It was during this time that Hilfiger

Reinventing a new kind of sporty American luxury

went bankrupt at the tender age of twenty-three.

is at the heart of Hilfiger. Think: rugby, tennis, a

After forgoing the safe option of pursuing higher

country club. It always has a very clean aesthetic.

education, his natural entrepreneurial spirit led him

‘I knew exactly what I wanted to do: I wanted to

to open 10 stores across college campuses. With

build some kind of lifestyle brand that was preppy

failure behind him: ‘I moved to the city and started

and cool’, he once stated. And that he did. At

designing clothes’, he explains. Going it alone and

present Hilfiger’s company is predominantly owned

leaving his hometown of Elmira, Hilfiger spent years

by fashion powerhouse PVH. In the company’s

slogging it out, living hand-to-mouth and trying to

most recently released set of financial results, the

find money for his new design business to succeed

company’s profits were up by 9 percent from last

– whilst working for another design company. It

year. Having previously told Interview Magazine, he

was only after he found an initial investor that the

advised, ‘In this business, you have to look over

tide started to turn.

your shoulder at all times because you can lose it

It was in 1985 when Hilfiger got his big break,

all with the snap of a finger.’ With his current $6.4

he launched the Tommy Hilfiger brand. With

billion dollar business and citing Ralph Lauren as

Zooey Deschanel and Tommy Hilfiger.

someone whose success he wishes to emulate,

guitars, the colour combinations became bolder

it looks like a plausible goal for him after over

and brighter. Striped lurex and patchwork denim

twenty-five years in the business to reach forty

were prevalent across the catwalk. Flares were

years with aplomb.

on show and set to take precedence for 2015.

The success of his spring/summer 14 collection

Star-spangled furs and dresses in wonderfully

tapped into a current popular cultural outing,

bold shades were a main focal point. Sequined

music festivals. ‘Musicians inspire me a lot … I

band T-shirts and star-studded Chelsea boots

also like cool preppy, classical looking people with

completed many an outfit. It was a retro mood

an edge. They always inspire me because their

made for the music festival-goers of the world

look is timeless - it travels well,’ he says. With his

for the summer of 2015. It comes as no surprise

name spelled out in a floral arrangement (possibly

that British model and It-girl Alexa Chung with

borrowed from the The Beatles’ Sgt Pepper

her rock chick touch was drafted in as a Guest

album cover) Jimi Hendrix’s Crosstown Traffic

Editor for his autumn/winter 14 collection. Month

opened the show. It was clear that 63-year-old

after month (finishing in January 2015) Chung

Hilfiger was taking a trip back in time, celebrating

has styled her favourite pieces from his collection

his love, passion and roots. First onto the runway

for all to see.

was Georgia May Jagger, the daughter of rock

As the second of nine children, Hilfiger has four

legend Mick. It’s easy to place her in matching

children of his own. With his eldest daughter Ally

striped shorts and cape at Glastonbury, or

designing a line of her own, she’s made a clear

imagining her back in 1969 rocking out with the

indication of following in her father’s footsteps.

rest. Tommy tapped into something. Keeping

And Hilfiger keeps adding to his fashion family.

things current is integral to any fashion business.

His recent collaboration with American actress

With Hedi Slimane deliberately delving into all

and singer Zooey Deschanel was well-received.

things rock ‘n’ roll, Hilfiger has taken a slice for

The capsule collection consisted of flirty fabrics,

himself too. ‘It’s all about inspiration and being

playful prints and sixties-inspired hemlines.

in the right places’, he explains. Except, it’s all-

More recently, he’s teamed up with Australian

out Americana style with a dabbling of musical

actress Naomi Watts as his global ambassador

influence. As models pretended to strum on

for his limited-edition handbag for Breast Health

Image courtesy of Randy Brooke / Stringer, Getty.

International. Watts comes after a succession of

of the curve as new digital media comes forth,

other popular culture figures. In the campaign

appears to be nothing new for the house. On the

shot by internationally acclaimed photographer

day of the show social media was in full swing,

Patrick Demarchelier, she oozes preppy chic.

as models and muses tweeted, Instagrammed

One thing is certain: he knows where to find and

and posted. Hilfiger kept his eye on entertaining

how to keep global appeal.

the masses on an epically global scale. Never

When you think of Tommy Hilfiger you see

straying too far from his obtainable all-out preppy

red, white and blue. His preppy Americana

look of classic cuts, classic tailoring and a classic

cool designs and vision have been prevalent

expression of taste. Having once noted that, ‘The

throughout the past twenty-five years. With his

road to success is not easy to navigate, but with

recent step back in time for his spring/summer 14

hard work, drive and passion, it’s possible to

collection, it’s only a reminder of how long Tommy

achieve the American dream.’ As Tommy’s latest

has been at the helm of the fashion industry. As

collection says thank you for the music, the world

he aims to match rival Ralph Lauren to a 40-

waits and watches as his lifestyle brand continues

year standing, keeping the Hilfiger brand ahead

to sing his Americana praises.

Fa sh i o n FE ATURE

Photographed by Riccardo Vimercati, MOJEH Issue 15

game Changer Sportswear is having a moment. From the street to the runway to the office, sport-infused fashion staples are everywhere. We discuss why society’s current obsession has arrived, and looks set to stay.

‘Let’s be clear about one thing first: fitness

Becoming the dress code for America’s

clothes have been the mainstream of

middle class, its only way was up. Starting

American, and to a certain extent European

out as separates – which allowed for easy

attire, for a couple of decades now,’ says

mixing and matching of shorts, skirts and

fashion anthropologist Brent Luvaas.

T-shirts – the design appealed to women

America has always loved casual clothes

whose lives were changing at a fast rate. As

with a sporty, laidback aesthetic. With

lifestyles changed, so too did people’s choice

their all-American appeal, Calvin Klein or

of fashion attire. In particular California’s

Ralph Lauren brands speak to the masses.

laidback sunshine-filled days required a

With billion dollar businesses in tow, both

more casual approach to dressing. Therefore

designers have never strayed far from their

the welcoming of sportswear was an easy

original design concept. Selling the elegant

transition. In other states across America,

and luxurious lifestyle along with each and

people were relocating out from the big

every logoed polo shirt. But as little as two

cities to the suburbs, and with it brought a

years ago, sportswear started to trickle into

change in clothing, along came casualwear.

the visions of many international designers

It was during the sixties and seventies

in a big way. ‘Wearing sweats and athletic

when sportswear became a must-have. As

shoes in public is nothing new. What is new is

American sportswear designers marketed

that designers are now attempting to elevate

their designs as a lifestyle brand, European

this staple of everyday attire with tailored

designers looked to ensembles that were

cuts and more sophisticated designs. It is

fuss-free for day into night dressing. In 1973,

as if designers have given up on getting

the T-shirt was born and in their droves

the public to wear something other than

people wanted it. It was official, casualwear

sportswear. And the entrance of street wear

was everywhere.

brands into the high fashion scene has given

Now it is an international playing field for

designers faith that sportswear doesn’t have

designers. When Chanel’s Karl Lagerfeld

to look frumpy and awful. They have decided

sent couture trainers down the runway for

to bring sportswear to high fashion rather

spring/summer 2014, every Chanel model

than lure the public away from sportswear,’

was decked out in a pair. It was officially a

explains Luvaas.

major trend. Show after show, designer after

In the beginning, American designers

designer, sent models down the runway for

were inspired and influenced by European

SS14 in sport attire. Each one capturing that

(particularly French) fashion designers. As

sports day spirit with a touch of old-school

women began to partake in sport and gaming

attitude: from plimsolls to racer back vests to

activities in the 20th century, the market

gym shorts. All infused with high-tech fabric

shifted toward catering for their needs.

and mesh panelling, texture was key to its

88 Street style, Milan Fashion Week

the entire apparel sector reached $206.3 billion and activewear sales accounted for $33.7 billion – representing 16 percent of the total market, with analysts announcing its vital role in the overall success of the market over the past two years. Marshall Cohen Chief Industry Analyst commented, ‘Activewear is booming, with sales growth exceeding that of the apparel market as a whole, and it’s because consumers are wearing activewear not only to the gym, in the gym, and from the gym, but they are working out, hanging out, and going out in it … Consumers are drawn to its comfort and versatility, and the fact that it still makes a fashion statement. Activewear, by nature, also evokes a sense of athleticism and wellbeing, which only adds to its appeal.’ Sportswear achieved the appeal of longevity when it first started, and with the introduction of sports luxe the trend has reached both ends of the fashion spectrum: from street to runway. The two have found a way to coincide and gain a crossover of mass appeal. ‘I think there are at least a couple of factors influencing the prevalence of sportswear in fashion. First, several street wear lines like Hood by Air and Public School have crossed over into high fashion, and as they have done so, they have taken their emphasis on sportswear with them. Second, street style websites, as well as micro-blogging platforms like Tumblr and Instagram have mashed up sportswear, street wear, readyto-wear and high fashion into one continuous stream of images’, explains Luvaas. There’s a lack of differentiation between, what once was, very separate creative endeavours. ‘Designers are now drawing from a wide range of influences, including from sectors once seen as outside the purview of high fashion and couture. It no longer seems contradictory for menswear and couture

modern feel. It was sports luxe at its finest.

labels to borrow from sportswear’, concludes

Pool sliders and supple leather rucksacks in

Luvaas. Pairing a workout sweater with a

bright hues were key to accessorising the

leather pencil skirt together with a pair of

trend. Much to everyone’s surprise, couture

trainers is now considered high fashion,

designer Alexandre Vauthier turned to the

rather than bad taste. Gone are the days of

beach and windsurfing for inspiration for

doing the daily commute to work in trainers

his SS14 collection. With chains mimicking

only to swap into high heels at the office

surfboard leads, and glitter-fused hemlines

door. Flats are in fashion.

dazzling like sand in the desert, it was a

There are the designers whose creative

touch of the understated for a (sometimes)

visions have been and always will be

sport dabbler.

focused on sportswear. From the beginning,

But why has this trend taken a sudden

Alexander Wang has had a rooted interest in

surge across society? According to the

clothes fitted for athleticism. Speaking at his

NYPD Group Consumer Tracking Service

resort 2012 presentation he stated, ‘I never

from July 2013 to June 2014, growth within

really did sports growing up, maybe that’s

the activewear sector buoyed the complete

why they intrigue me. The technology that

American apparel market. Total sales from

goes into that clothing is steps ahead, so

Street style, Paris Fashion Week

Sara Nicole Rossetto

Street Style, Milan Fashion Week

it’s always been something I look towards.’ Wang’s vision has always been firm in looking toward the future. With his recent spring/summer 2015 he surprisingly turned to history. Recalling 21st century Fortuny and Madame Grès as inspirations, Wang paired trainers (acting as a leitmotif) with reinterpreted iconic silhouettes. From tennis dresses to heavily textured leather A-line cuts, it was sport with a touch of historic victory. Brightly coloured structured crop tops accompanied by mesh-detailed high heels, and high-waisted trousers in loose fitting fabrics with sturdy bomber jackets were prevalent throughout. The same applies to British designer Stella McCartney, who really found her footing in sports luxe.

90 Balenciaga

Elie Saab

Since 2004, she has maintained a long established collaboration with major sports brand Adidas. From tennis to yoga to swimming, the collections cover all clothing suited for performance-based attire for women in the world of sport. In September 2010, McCartney was appointed Creative Director for Great Britain’s team for the 2012 Olympics. It was the first time in the history of the sporting event that a leading international fashion designer had created the apparel for a country’s team – including the Paralympics. McCartney’s love for a laidback aesthetic has always been there, and it could be seen once again in her spring/summer 2015 offerings. With simplicity at the core, models walked the runway in parachute silk skirts, trousers

Alexandre Vauthier Haute Couture

and tops. It’s casualwear in its modern

Backstage at Proenza Schouler

making, with real flair. Across the board for spring/summer 2015 designers dabbled with the trend once more. Designers emerged from under their usual house markings, and instead opted for sportswear. With a fighting spirit reoccurring throughout and a boxing-style dress being the main focus point, Alexis Mabille looked to games. Stating that the collection was ‘a wardrobe of ultra feminine essentials’ with sportswear at the core. Hoods were attached to many a dress or playsuit and mesh fabric adorned multiple designs, as he said, ‘My woman’s sport is fashion.’ Designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler sent down an array of only parkas, polos, blouses and pleated skirts as ‘our version of American sportswear’. With each look appearing both practical and polished from hand-knit polos to leather T-shirts with crochet seams, it was American sportswear done right. Much to the surprise of the fashion circle, designer Elie Saab (known for his elegantly extravagant designs) allowed sport to fuel his entire spring/summer 2015 collection. From figure-hugging swimsuit-style bodices to laidback flats, Saab entered a realm of all things new. While the collection focused on sports of the water variety, a laidback appeal was what we least expected from him. And we liked it. But it begs the question: where will the trend be placed for 2015? Paris-based fashion stylist June Nakamoto believes, ‘It will be big in 2015 because health and sport are society’s current obsession.’ As society tries to shift toward a better, greener and healthier future, so too has the people. The focus on our health and daily well-being has profoundly shifted during the 21st century. It’s only natural that we dress to express this new attitude, enter:

ahead. As celebrities follow suit by pairing

sportswear. Or, if trend forecasters would

a pair of black Nike trainers with an haute

have us believe: health goth – a fusion of

couture skirt a la Beyoncé, fashion’s current

goth street wear, normcore and sportswear.

obsession doesn’t appear to be going

Big sportswear brands like Nike and Adidas

anywhere, anytime soon. ‘I think it’s still got

have tapped into the emerging trend already.

some life left in it, especially in menswear.

With Alexander Wang’s recent collection for

The trend, there at least, is still building. But I

high street store H&M oozing its influences.

also think it may already have peaked among

Jaana Jatyri of trend forecaster Trendstop

the fashion in-crowd, especially in women’s

commented, ‘Health goth started out as an

fashion. My suspicion is that it will build

Internet meme, but we’re now starting to

for the first half of 2015 and then start to

see these stylistic influences filter through

fade’, says Luvaas. With American designer

to trendsetters on the streets, especially in

Mary Katrantzou’s recent collaboration with

London.’ It’s certainly one to watch for 2015.

Adidas it’s a sure sign that we’ll be looking

As everyone and anyone across society joins

to both the street and the runway for a

forces with sportswear, the trend appears to

touch of athleticism. Only time will tell if

be gaining even more momentum for the year

the trend will win the top trophy for 2015.

New

lands Photographed by Pieter Henket Styled by Guillaume Boulez

Top, jacket, trousers, belt and shoes, GIVENCHY BY RICCARDO TISCI

Coat, LANVIN | Blouse, SHARON WAUCHOB | Trousers, VERSACE | Shoes, CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN | Vintage hat and sash, stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own

Coat and jumper, CHRISTIAN DIOR | Ear cuff, MARIE BELTRAMI

Top, skirt and socks, PRADA | Gloves, ARISTIDE | Tights, FALKE

Dress, SONIA RYKIEL | Top, LANVIN | Trousers, VIKTOR & ROLF | Necklace, ANNELISE MICHELSON | Harness, A.F. VANDEVORST

100

102

Blouse, JUST CAVALLI | Necklace, ROSANTICA CHEZ Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ECLAIREUR | Skirt, RENE BY RENE STORCK | Trousers, JEAN PAUL GAULTIER | Harness, ZANA BAYNE

Model: Tessa Bennenbroek at A Models Amsterdam Hair and make-up artist: Sandra Govers at Angelique Hoorn Management Hair and make-up artist’s assistant: Christel Man Stylist’s assistant: Laura Stefanini Director of photography: Rolf Dekens Photographer’s assistants: Petra Vaessen and Martijn Mendel Local production: Boom Productions Production: Louis Agency

Horses: Luna and Vamke from the Lokven Hoeve Stables, Dog: Brandy With special thanks to Ina, Lidy and Winnie de Koning

Photographed by Anthony Arquier Styled by Guillaume Boulez

Dress, PRADA | Shoes, MIU MIU

Coat, CALVIN KLEIN | Shoes, MIU MIU

Dress, jumper and shoes, MIU MIU

Dress, CHRISTIAN DIOR

Dress and bra, GIVENCHY BY RICCARDO TISCI

Dress, ROCHAS | Shoes, MIU MIU

Top and skirt, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

Coat, CELINE

Suit and shoes, BALENCIAGA

Model: Cris Herrmann Stylist’s assistant: Laura Stefanini Hair stylist: Jonathan Dadoun at B4 Agency using Shu Uemura Hair stylist’s assistant: Suzy Sujigashira Make-up artist: Cyril Laine Set designer: Sylvain Cabouat at Michele Filomeno Retoucher: HOL Studios Flowers: La Jardinerie Truffaut Set Designer’s Assistant: Chene Moreau Production: Louis Agency

116

I n si d er L o o k

Do you have a creative process you always follow? I usually start by sitting down with my design team and we brainstorm ideas. We create mood boards to illustrate a new concept of inspiration, and of course we often draw on our rich heritage. Using just a pencil and sketchpad we create our initial designs, working together as a team to develop our ideas and begin the process of starting a new collection. How would you describe the woman you design for? The women we design for are intelligent and passionate about jewellery. They understand that by buying a piece of jewellery from Garrard, they are creating their own heirloom and, that with our design and craftsmanship, their piece, or pieces, of jewellery will be enjoyed by generations to come. Sara Prentice, Head of Design at Garrard.

B e h i n d

the Brand With a career spanning over 20 years, working with some of the best and most established jewellery houses in the world, Sara Prentice tells us about life as head designer for British heritage brand, Garrard.

Where do you find your daily inspiration? Garrard has such a long history that our incredible heritage is a constant source of inspiration. With our head office and flagship boutique being in the heart of Mayfair I am constantly inspired by the true essence of Britishness. Seeing pieces that we have designed being produced with such remarkable craftsmanship also inspires me to push the boundaries of design further. How does it feel to work for a heritage brand? It is a great privilege to work for a company with such a strong legacy. We are growing incredibly fast under the leadership of our five-year CEO, Eric Deardorff. He has taken Garrard to over 25 new distribution points around the world from just five. We partner with the best local market distributors, such as Damas Jewellery, who beautifully represent our global image. The Garrard heritage, top quality and beautiful designs, gemstones and craftsmanship, along with a deep link to royalty around the world for 280 years, has a wonderful impact on ladies globally, who cherish their Garrard jewellery. No other jeweller has survived and thrived for 279 years. You career as a fine jeweller designer spans 20 years, what are your career highlights thus far? I have had the chance to learn from some of the best jewellery houses in the world: Cartier, Graff and Fabergé. And today, it is an honour to put my creative experience at the service of Garrard. It is a pleasure to head up such a strong creative team of talented and inspiring young designers. Working together day after day to create new collections and see them taking life is a continuous highlight of my career. What challenges do you face as a designer? Over the past four years, Garrard has gone from having two London-based stores to over 30 distribution points in 13 countries. The breadth of our new buyers – from the UK and US, the Middle East, Eastern Europe, and Asia – requires understanding nuances of different buyers’ tastes. Fortunately, a vast majority of our beautiful jewellery sells in all these markets. Yet we do design for specific market tastes. Why is it important for Garrard to ethically source their material? Garrard was one of the first jewellers to sign up for fairtrade gold. We buy our gemstones from countries that have signed the 2003 Kimberley Process Certification Scheme. It is of course important for our company to remain ethical and for the standards of our sourcing and production process to be as high as the jewellery we sell. In what ways will luxury consumers’ tastes change in the next few years? It is always difficult to predict the trends of taste in the luxury industry. However, I can say that for a brand that has been established since 1735, we know what our clients are after and have consistently designed jewellery appropriate for the times. Garrard clients are always looking for something that will stand the test of time. Our pieces are timeless and the beautiful craftsmanship guarantees that

The Albemarle Collection

they will be enjoyed by future generations.

SAINT LAURENT PSYCH ROCK

Hop aboard the Festival Express for Saint Laurent

Laurent bags by giving them a wild, wild west

by Hedi Slimane cruise 15. From cowgirl cool to

spin as well as concocting up a whole new host

hippie chic, the LA based designer has created

of desirable ones with cow print, suede or tassel

a collection that has everything for rocking the

details. Meanwhile, statement jewels create a haute

revived seventies trend that was splashed across

hippie effect with a variety of pieces that wouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t

runways at both the cruise and SS15 shows. If

look out of place at Coachella but work just as

you want a full blast from the past then embrace

well at work or for dinner. You may need to watch

the collections clothes whilst those that prefer a

your wardrobe, however, as the unisex collection

subtle nod to the trends over a chameleon style

may attract unwanted borrowing. Although this

change can look to the psych rock accessory

also means that a Valentineâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s gift courtesy of

offering. Slimane has reworked classic Saint

Hedi Slimane can be for you as well as for him.

118

M o st D es i r ed

SEAMAN SCHEPPS The Heritage Jewels

A playful mix of gems are brought together to

Seamann Schepps went on to create an iconic brand

create a kaleidoscope of colours in your jewellery

steeped in American tradition. The ups and downs

box. Whether you choose to rock one hue, as with

experienced during the course of his career only saw

the sapphire, jadeite and emerald creations, or you

his designs become more innovative. Whilst on a world

seek a more multi-gem approach, Schepps creates

tour, Schepps came to settle in Hong Kong for three

exquisite pieces that will add interest and stand the

months so that he could utilise the exotic resources

test of time. You only need to look at the long and rich

such as coral and ivory. It was this creative spirit that

history of the American jeweller to see that you canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t

saw clients turn to the jeweller to create one-of-a-

go wrong by investing in one of their timeless pieces.

kind pieces by updating old jewellery into something

The only problem may be choosing which design

new and exciting. Come aboard as we set sail for

to take home. From opening his first store in 1904,

an exciting jewel adventure with Seaman Schepps.

OCTIUM JEWELLERY Kuwaiti Couture

‘Jewellery is one of the most personal forms of art…

to their burgeoning brand. Octium romantically

we wear it on our skin,’ states co-founder of Octium,

began whilst out shopping on their honeymoon in

Sheikha Alanoud Al-Sabah. You know you are in for

2003, with Fahad encouraging Alanoud to create

something special. The inspiration behind the brand,

jewellery of her own. Almost 12 years later and the

and also lending itself to the name, stems from the

brand now boast a growing number of namesake

eight-sided octagon. The number eight symbolises

collections as well as one-off bespoke creations

balance, timelessness and creation and it is these

and bags that are stocked around the world in

qualities that can be found in the husband and wife

iconic stores such as Harvey Nichols and Bergdorf

founders’ fine jewellery and couture collection of

Goodman. Be inspired by the Arabian theme with

clutches. Fahad Al Hajiri and Al Sabah bring both

the iconic falcon heading up a line of clutches.

their Kuwaiti heritage and international outlook

We know what we will be carrying this season.

120

S t yl e NOTE

It Rich Having been made chic by Coco Chanel and synonymous with the French Riviera, stripes are here to stay. But how can we wear them with a little difference this season? Harvey Nichols Dubai’s General Merchandising Manager Eda Kuloglu gives us some hints and tips.

By Eda Kuloglu

It’s a trend that will always be a firm favourite, particularly as we drift into spring and summer. A stripe or two adds an understated, yet sophisticated element to any ensemble. With its French roots and unwavering place in the fashion realm, a stripe is never one to wane. From Marion Cotillard to Diane Kruger to Olivia Palermo, fashion’s best dressers never fail to impress in stripes. Stripes come and go like any other trend, but I haven’t seen it done in such a big way before. We’ve seen this trend across all categories, from footwear to handbags to ready-to-wear. In one way or another, designers have found a way to incorporate stripes into their collections. There are no restrictions on who can wear this trend. A more fashion forward woman may choose to wear the trend in a bold way, by pairing a striped top to a striped skirt. The woman who isn’t as comfortable wearing head-to-toe stripes, can easily buy into this trend with accessories. Valentino, which is new for Harvey Nichols this season, incorporated stripes into both the footwear and handbag collection, which is sure to be a must-have come spring/summer 15. I’m certain women here in the Middle East will like this trend, simply because it’s very colourful. Stripes can be tricky, but designers have found a way to make them commercial and wearable this Chloe Cruise 2015

season. Dries Van Noten’s designs are a perfect example.

A Sporting life

As more women leave running in heels to the Carrie Bradshaws of the world, turning toward the cool simplicity of trainers has never been more fitting. Discovering which sport-infused flat fits you best is all part of the footwear fun.

Slip On

Less is More

Take a cue from Dior with a pair of feminine

This less-is-more style of sneaker goes with

floral-embellished simple slip-on sneakers.

anything, anyone and anywhere. Style them with

They’re perfect for crossing over from day

a high-end ready-to-wear piece to add more

into night styling without any fuss.

than a little edge to your daytime ensemble.

Strap Up

Canvas Convert

Strap up with a pair of trainers that ooze

If you’re still hesitant when it comes to fashion-

insouciance. They’re an ideal pairing for

meets-fitness footwear then be a canvas

those who are lucky enough to hold an

convert instead. This pair from Viktor & Rolf

understated level of cool.

strike a perfect balance between old and new.

122

S t yl e NOTE

Ballerina Butterfly

M a d a m e

Butterfly Having recently celebrated her brand’s 10-year anniversary, artist and sculptor Cindy Chao believes she’s only just getting started. With a fusion of art and history being the cornerstone of her work, sculpting pieces of art is more than just a traditional practice.

Chao refers to herself as a sculptor, not a designer –

it was her family’s teaching that really educated

and it makes sense. ‘Through the creative process,

her. Living and working between Taipei and Hong

I have many identities. In addition to being able

Kong (she travels to Geneva for the manufacturing

to sculpt my ideas via wax, as a creator I have to

process) Chao designs two collections per year. ‘It

consider the structure of the piece, the setting and

took our craftsmen in Geneva two years to be able

aesthetic, the composition of gemstones that allow

to set 4,700 of gemstones on our latest 2014 Black

maximum lighting to pass through, the wearability

Label Masterpiece I, Ballerina Butterfly’, she says.

and functionality of a piece. Therefore, I’m also

The butterfly, the ribbon and floral motifs remain the

the architect and the engineer’, she explains.

firm artistic fixtures of her pieces. Surprisingly, many

For the Taiwan-born sculptor, the sculpting and

of her sculptures are lightweight even though the

architectural design process runs in her blood. Her

detailing is so beautifully exquisite the naked eye

grandfather was an architect and her father was a

believes they must be heavy on the hand. ‘I insist

sculptor. From a young age Chao was trained on

that every piece of my art jewel is designed in 360

how to view the world in a three-dimensional way.

degrees, so that it can be savoured from all angles,’

Accompanying her father on a daily basis, she

explains Chao. By keeping the development of

learnt about angles, form and expression. ‘My father

new gem-setting techniques in mind using titanium

would often comment on my projects, and share

has been a work in successful progress. ‘In recent

with me his words of wisdom: ‘Regardless of the

years we started to work with titanium, with the

subject, the final piece must be as vibrant as it is

idea to create art jewels with grandeur and higher

in real life. Spend time to observe the object. Pay

functionality. Titanium, as the hardest metal, is

close attention to the minute detail. And then, with

extremely difficult to be fully paved with diamonds

your heart and soul, put into forms what you’ve

and gemstones. The time spent to work on a

perceived’’ she recounts.

titanium piece is double that of a gold piece,’ she

As much as she studied at well-respected institutes

says. This sheer level of dedicated craftsmanship

– including the Fashion Institute of Technology and

is prevalent through each and every piece. This

the Gemological Institute of America – Chao believes

would explain why at a Christie’s Geneva jewellery

Designer Cindy Chao

sale in 2013 her iconic butterfly brooch from 2012

questioned the piece’s suitability to the museum

sold for $954,102, nearly five times its estimate of

with a mixture of confusion and flattery to the

$210,000 to $260,000.

curator, Dr Post. In his reply, he cited the brooch’s

After a decade, Chao has become an extremely

ability to ‘ensure that generations to come may

successful independent jewellery maker. Since

enjoy the craftsmanship of this timeless piece.’ In

founding her company in 2004, Chao has never

short: it represents the 21st Century.

accepted any outside investors because she

Standing the test of time appears to be a centralised

wants her vision to remain fluid and unsaturated.

theme within the life and work of Chao. Having

‘There are parts of myself in each of my art jewels,

learnt her craft from generations before her, it’s

making each art jewel impossible to replicate, hence

something which she hopes to pass on herself,

distinctively one-of-a-kind’, explains Chao. In

in time. ‘Ever since I was a child, my father and

2009, Chao’s Black Label Masterpiece I, the Royal

grandfather have imprinted an idea in me – true

Butterfly was inducted into the Smithsonian Natural

art has to be able to stand the trial of time, and

History Museum. Composed of 2328 gemstones

only true art can transcend time and be passed on

weighing a total of 77 carats, the brooch was

from generation to generation’, she recalls. Like

set with glistening sapphires, rubies, diamonds

the metamorphosis of a butterfly, Chao looks to

and tsavorite garnets. Citing this as one of her

create something more spectacular than the last,

most memorable career moments thus far, Chao

something that defies time.

124

A cc es s o ry a f fair s

BLUSHING

BEAUTIES Turn to a pink palette as the most romantic day of the year rolls around come February 14th. Hide hints that Harry Winston is the man of your dreams or let La Collection Privée’s Hummingbird cuff set your heart aflutter. Be sure to celebrate divine jewels on Valentine’s.

3 2

126

SILVER

LINING Allow your wrists to sparkle and shine with a

luxe take on this seasonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cuff. Stack them high or make a statement by going solo with Piagetâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cuff-come-watch. Work the strong look into your wardrobe by pairing the pieces with everything from ball gowns to a pair of jeans. The bolder the better.

7 5

128

Va l e nti ne’ s E dit

Valentine’s often comes in a cloud of confetti and pastel shades but this year we enter the dark side and suggest cupid comes out decked in moody hues.

Lose yourself in the depth of Ivy’s heady blue spinel sparkler. It’s jagged edges and graduating colour reflects that of the orchid’s petals. Ring with spinel and diamonds, set on white, pink and yellow gold, IVY AT DAMAS

Pluck berries from David Morrisâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; forbidden tree and fall victim to the charm of the ruby and diamond earrings as they take centre stage against a backdrop of pretty petals. Wild Flower earrings with ruby and white micro diamonds, DAVID MORRIS

Let diamonds drop from your ears as Jawaherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s creations curve around like a snake and bring to life the dark petals of the gothic black rose. Round Brilliant earrings with diamonds, JAWAHER AT DAMAS

130 Dorothy’s slippers have been replaced by this ruby heart bracelet. Escape from the dark depths of the forest with diamonds and rubies. Bracelet with heart rubies, round white diamonds with round white diamond microset surround, DAVID MORRIS

Escape the clutch of the Panthère by diving deep for Cartier’s string of grey pearls and take in the burst of orange that mimics a dramatic sun setting on a romantic day. Panthère watch with onyx, emeralds and diamonds, set on white gold. Necklace with 31 grey cultured pearls and diamonds, set on white gold, both CARTIER

Bring light to the darkest of days with Roberto Coinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s colourful creation as the blue topaz and peridot pull the black petals out from the shadows. Shanghai bangle with diamonds, ruby, amethyst, citrine, blue topaz, peridot and orange quartz, set on yellow gold, ROBERTO COIN AT DAMAS

Bright and brilliant petals play a part in both Jawaherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s dazzling diamond bracelet and the shock of the blue rose. Potent and fragile go hand in hand. Round Brilliant bracelet with diamonds, JAWAHER AT DAMAS

132

Tal k ing P OINT

A Retro Remake High jewellery has the ability to capture the spirit of an era unlike any other inanimate object. A ring, necklace or earrings can recreate the emotions and aspirations from a bygone time. As the seventies makes a comeback across popular culture, we take a look at its retro remake in high jewellery.

The Seventies was a time of experimentation, creativity in

Ferrières in December 1971 which celebrated the centenary

design and a rise in consumerism. Back then, pieces of

of the birth of Marcel Proust and was hosted by Baron

jewellery were thrown on in an unfussy and carefree manner.

Guy de Rothschild and his wife. Each person attended

They highlighted a change in women’s lives, as they had

the ball dressed as their preferred Proust character – later

to cater for her grab-and-go lifestyle. Nothing appeared

giving inspiration to the house. The Oiseau décor necklace

precious, dainty or demure – those days were long gone.

evokes a sense of Seventies with its fusion of blue, pink

Swinging from necks were bright, large gemstones and

and mauve sapphire and diamond creation. Surrounding a

statement-making pieces – the bigger, the better.

large feathered bird the statement piece conveys liberation

It was a time for a rise in experimentation for the arts, music,

through the flight of a bird. In addition, the Ruban Mysterieux

fashion and popular culture. In 2013, the movie blockbuster

comprising of Mystery Set sapphires and diamonds folds

(that had everyone lusting after a foregone decade) American

into a large bright blue bow. Both pieces speak of excess,

Hustle reminded us of that

with taste.

laidback seventies’ vibe,

During this time, New York

which was synonymous

City was an exciting place

with the decade. Long

to be, the energy of the city

chains, massive cuffs and

buzzed with excitement for

larger-than-life

all things new. In 2012,

earrings

gave a certain sense of empowerment to women. As

luxury

jewellery

designers look back at an era of liberation, they’re reclaiming elements in their

The jewels during the seventies were part of a look that screamed ‘rebellion’ but were chic and glamorous at the same time – it was an important feature of the period.

Cartier tapped into this energy through their Juste un Clou collection. By launching in the Cartier Mansion on Fifth Avenue, the retrospective, New

designs again.

York in the Seventies,

In March 2014, jewellers

allowed viewers to relive

Van Cleef & Arpels held

and experience life during

Van

that decade. It was during

Cleef & Arpels à Geneve,

this time when designer

exhibition

for

showcasing the jewellers

Aldo Cipullo was inspired

extensive work in the city over the past 150 years – many

to create two cult bracelets for Cartier, the Love and the

pieces were lent from private collectors. Highlighting the

Nail bracelets. Both bracelets were ahead of their time

sheer level of craftsmanship, design and innovation. Nestled

with their simplistic and modern elements – a vision of the

in amongst the fold, was a coral and amethyst necklace.

future to come. Recreating a version for the 21st century,

With its long entwined chain in a bright coral, the Ibiza

the bracelet was celebrated in its recreation.

sautoir is a sign of the opulence from its decade. Of late,

But why do we insist on revisiting the past? Francesco

the jewellery house has started to incorporate the heavy

Lops, New Product Development Manager for Damas

adornment of jewels within their designs. Their recent

Jewellery in the Middle East, believes it comes down to

Bals de Légende collection celebrates the grand balls

human behaviour. ‘The seventies were a continuation of

of the 20th century. With a nod to Le Bal Proust held in

the fervent sixties, full of social and cultural changes.

Photographed by Nicolas Menu, MOJEH Jewellery & Watches Edition 01, WALLACE CHAN

Photographed by Alice Rosati, MOJEH Issue 17, CHANEL

134

The jewels during the seventies were part of a look that

necklace is made-up entirely of diamonds. Worn as a long

screamed ‘rebellion’ but were chic and glamorous at the

or short necklace, the lion’s head is detachable and can be

same time – it was an important feature of the period. I

worn as a brooch. A similar theme is carried over throughout

think as humans we have a fascination with our past and the

adorning bracelets, rings and big cuffs. More importantly,

flamboyant, luxurious and also nostalgic era of the seventies.

it evokes power and snarls protectively of a bygone era.

There is a desire to relive that period so we create jewellery

Following suit Louis Vuitton revealed Chain Attraction,

that can voice this desire.’ Swiss watch house Piaget stood

the house’s high jewellery collection in 2013. After globe

out for its exotic watch designs during the late sixties and

trekking for the perfect gems, strands adorn long chains.

seventies. As they transitioned into jewellery this innovation

From Brazilian emeralds to a darker Columbian hue, green

and vision was continued. Famous figures such as Sophia

was the bright light of the decade. Green Tahitian pearls

Loren and Jackie Kennedy were loyal Piaget wearers.

form along a necklace strand, in between the colours of

The house’s new Extremely Piaget collection takes pride

diamonds, emeralds and onyx beam as they form the

in its period of a golden age of design. Weaving through

classic Louis Vuitton flower motif. The Hologram necklace

the collection turquoise, sapphires and lapis lazuli in bold

drapes with morganites in a palette of pink, accompanied

blue gain a note of replica. But there’s a distinct breath

with bright blue tourmaline and minute emeralds. Emulating

of fresh air prevalent throughout. Of course, the emerald

the effect of a hologram, the morganites have been cut

takes precedence, wrapped in gold threads or surrounded

to create an illusion of depth. Each and every morganite

by lesser jewels. Lops

was cut from the very same

notes: ‘The seventies are

stone to achieve a sense

characterised by attention to

of duality throughout the

colour, a desire to displace,

strands. Mandarin garnets

amaze and entertain with

in a bright orange shade

oversized items. The modern geometric shapes blurred the boundaries between art, fashion and jewellery.’ With a modern take on Roman Dolce Vita, Bulgari’s campaign featuring model Carla Bruni in 2013 for

on a white gold necklace

It was an era of excess. Everything looked better if it was bigger and bolder, including jewellery. As experimentation prevailed throughout culture, art and fashion, attention also fell on jewels.

accompanied by star-cut diamonds, mandarin garnet beads and opals form a medallion-style design - a citrus garnet is the central focus. Based around four long

chain

necklaces,

its Diva Haute Joaillerie

they capture the spirit of

collection looked to the

the seventies in a splash

seventies for inspiration.

of colour and statement-

Adorned in beautifully bold

making glamour.

jewels in statement-making

It was an era of excess.

pieces

Everything looked better

Bruni

explains,

‘Bulgari is for me the symbol of passion and of this vivid

if it was bigger and bolder, including jewellery. As

and colourful Roman gaiety, like the stones of the seventies

experimentation prevailed throughout culture, art and

bracelet that my aunt wore when I was a child. I loved that

fashion, attention also fell on jewels. ‘Jewellery is an

bracelet.’ The house’s idolism for the seventies and eighties

intensely personal form of art, it is worn to look appealing,

comes with as no surprise as it was an innovative time for

to enhance and decorate the wearer, it allows the wearer

the brand. With legendary actress Elizabeth Taylor’s highly

to flaunt their mood and emotions. The seventies represent

publicised admiration for their jewels during that time period,

an amazing period of creativity in all form of art,’ notes

it remains a constant inspiration for the brand to this day.

Lops. The bejewelled pieces of the period evoked a sense

Unveiled in the summer of 2013, Chanel’s Sous Le Signe du

of power for the wearer. Women were no longer interested

Lion collection of one-off jewels had a distinctively seventies

in the dainty and demure, they wanted creations that

element to it. Long chain necklaces with medallions and

conveyed a change in power and position, and they got

roaring lions were the cornerstones of the brand’s creations.

it. From Piaget to Bulgari, designs focused on a palette

The lion’s head was synonymous with jewellery during the

of bright colours (with emeralds being a favourite),

decade. It was larger than life, fierce and in-your-face wealth.

geometric designs and medallions being constant features

Chanel’s Lion Royal platinum, white gold and diamond brooch

throughout the decade. It was a time of statement-

appears rampant and ready to pounce. The transformable

making glamour and brave boldness – and it’s back.

136

Ta l k ing P o i nt

From Me

To You, and you to me? In a game of no halves, we explore the subversive charm in wearing fragrances which are not necessarily meant for you. ‘The boundaries of gender aren’t as strict today

Others are simply mixing up alchemies to offer more

as they have been before,’ says world-renowned

masculine or feminine accents.

perfumer Roja Dove, the nose behind popular gender-

Women’s fashion in recent years has successfully

neutral ranges such as Extrait. ‘It is important that

turned its hand to androgynous trends, illustrating the

anyone can feel that they can access a fragrance,

idea that we no longer live inside a pre-determined

regardless of gender – that is the magic of perfume:

box and shaking up our daily beauty regimes with a

it is non-judgemental.’ What a beautiful thought. We

splash of bergamot or black pepper, brings with it just

can spritz a fragrance, any fragrance, over our wrists

as much possibility. ‘The use of Vetiver in feminine

and across our neckline simply because we adore its

perfumery has seen a resurgence in recent years

smell, regardless of whether the bottle reads ‘perfume’

which has always been, traditionally, a masculine

or ‘cologne’. Twenty years after the launch of the first

ingredient,’ adds Roja. Supermodel Elle McPherson

unisex fragrance, CK One by Calvin Klein in 1994,

has many times championed her preferred scent

some wearers are further blurring lines by dabbling

as Guerlain’s Vétiver and Gemma Ward previously

with scents meant for the opposite sex. Some are

revealed her personal favourite to be Calvin Klein’s

drawn in by the notes, others by the emotive and

Obsession. Some women, the instinctively girly, yet

some purely for the thrill of going against the grain.

curious, may dabble with the idea. Romanticising

As we live in an era of discovery and ambiguity, where

with the unknown, the unexpected. Perhaps a blush

we constantly question and break the norm, does

pink dress with a pair of Manolo Blahniks, finished

this really come as a surprise? ‘The slightly more

with a blitz of soft cologne in a fleeting moment of

traditional way of marketing fragrances is generally a

defiance? With its refreshing blend of citrus, ginger

way of distinguishing between masculine and feminine

and grapefruits, Tom Ford For Men brings a modestly

compositions. But the boundaries of gender aren’t

masculine twist to sensual chic.

as strict today as they have been before. With the

‘Floral notes are typically associated with femininity,

public discovering more creative perfumes, comes the

but it is essential to understand that we use huge

breaking down of gender-specific fragrances,’ Roja

volumes of floral materials in masculine perfumery

offers. ‘There is no reason why any particular note

too,’ says Roja. ‘A rose on a man’s skin will be a

can’t be offered to either of the sexes.’ Fragrance

masculine rose, a rose on a woman’s skin will be a

houses have responded by removing labels and

feminine rose.’ With that in mind, there are, of course,

offering genderless collections, such as Elie Saab’s

two sides to every story. On the ‘wrong’ end of the

La Collection des Essences launch late last year.

perfume floor and in a sort of reversed feminism,

stands men who applaud the gentle, inviting, seductive scent of females, and strive to capture a piece for themselves. They walk around in business suites and stubble, but leave traces of lilies and cotton. Modern day dandies, if Oscar Wilde or Andy Warhol were born into the 21st century, they’d be first in line holding the newest version of Chanel No5. A report by the Fragrance Foundation found a new class of perfumes captivating the woody flavours traditionally associated with the men’s market. Most notably Estee Lauder’s Sensuous and Lancome’s Magnifique. Likewise, the report highlighted the floral notes now found in some cologne, such as Kenzo’s Power. ‘A note we love to use is vanilla, which may seem like a traditionally feminine ingredient but is actually key in many masculine fragrances,’ says Martine Micallef, the woman behind M. Micallef whose Collection Exclusifs is meant for both genders. ‘In the past we created a collection based on vanilla, but rather than mixing the scent with traditional sweet notes we combined it with elements such as leather, creating more sophisticated and unique blends.’ Along with vanilla, woody aromas such as nutmeg and sandalwood are popular with both men and women and a comfortable middle ground can be found in citrus notes, which are fresh without being too sweet or spicy. Recognising the idea that both women and men today look to explore and are often inherently attracted to something society tells them they can’t have – Givenchy’s Gentlemen Only? Yes please – perfumers like Micallef are moving towards more gender neutral options. Dolce & Gabbana successfully tapped into it a few years ago through their Anthology line. ‘The enchanting creations play with, and yet transcend the conventions of gender. Captivated by possibility, the wearer has the freedom to discover his or her identity,’ said the designers. More recently, Elie Saab flawlessly captures the accent of fragrances liberated from gender labels through La Collection des Essences, a four-piece set that weaves in and out of typically gender fixed notes such as amber, rose and gardenia. Martine, however, nods towards another overriding factor in our scent selection validating the ideas as to why we might be attracted to particular scents regardless of the umbrella they fall under: the emotive. ‘Scents captivate our emotions and trigger powerful memories and this, more so than gender, affects which notes we are naturally drawn to,’ explains Martine. ‘The notes that appeal to each individual absolutely reflect personal qualities.’ Just an intense as a picture, an alchemy of the right notes can open up a world of memories. The scent of your childhood, the aroma of your most memorable holiday, and so on – neither of these recognise gender. Is it asking too much of us to simply drop our instinctive gender fundamentals and immerse in a game of no halves? On your next trip to Bloomingdale’s perfume floor, close your eyes and allow your nose to be your guide, who knows on which counter you may end up.

138

B e a u ty FO C US

SPORTING

SEASON With sportswear looking set to stay in style, why not look to athletic pursuits when re-vamping your make-up bag.

7 6 5

THE PINK SWAN Let the barre be your beauty inspiration. As ballet becomes the workout de riguer with models championing the trend, we follow suit, not just for our fitness but also a pretty glow. A pared back feminine look was all the rage for the season, so go au natural and enhance your features with minimal products. 1. ALEXANDER MCQUEEN | 2. AIGNER | 3. ALTUZARRA | 4. ANTONIO BERARDI | 5. MIU MIU | 6. NARS, Lip pencil in Descanso | 7. BACCARAT, Rouge 540 | 8. GUERLAIN, Météorites Perles D’Étoiles

7 6

NEON HEAVYWEIGHT Gym wear has taken a turn to the forefront of fashion and your make-up shouldn’t fall behind. Just as sportswear is seen on the streets, slick and athletic beauty is also being embraced. Why not work a sleek ponytail as was seen on Alexander Wang’s SS15 runway or graphic eyes to match your kit. 1. ALEXANDER WANG | 2. EMPORIO ARMANI | 3. 3.1 PHILLIP LIM | 4. AIGNER | 5. MASHA MA | 6. M.A.C, Eye Kohl in Tarnish | 7. MIRIAM QUEVEDO, Extreme Caviar Final Touch | 8. SHISEIDO, Sheer and Perfect compact foundation

140

6 7 5

SHOWJUMP With a cowgirl vibe emanating from the catwalks, equestrian style has never been more appropriate. A fishtail plait provides a nod to the trend, while a neutral palette of nudes and browns keeps the appearance fresh. Add definition to eyes without overpowering your look – subtle smoke can be worn around the clock. 1. SAINT LAURENT | 2. DSQUARED2 | 3. SUNO | 4. BARBARA CASASOLA | 5. BCBG | 6. ILLAMASQUA, Sheer lip gloss in Opulent | 7. CLARINS, Eye Quartet Mineral Palette | 8. GUCCI, Gucci Première

SPLASH Jump into the aquatic trend with hair that looks fresh from the sea, created with Oribe’s Après Beach Wave & Shine spray. Be confident in the surf instead of appearing washed out with MAC’s False Lashes Waterproof mascara and plunge your eyelids into the deep with a vibrant splash of blue. 1. CUSTO BARCELONA | 2. CHLOÉ | 3. ANTIPODIUM | 4. THAKOON | 5. DANNIJO | 6. M.A.C, False Lashes Waterproof mascara | 7. ORIBE, Après Beach Wave and Shine Spray | 8. DAVIDOFF, Cool Water Night Dive

142

M OJEH B o dy

Soraya practicing yoga by Lake Geneva

Moving from one place to another in the name of work may be a strain to some, but Soraya Bakhtiar makes it her athletics field. From paddle boarding in the Caribbean to yoga overlooking Geneva’s lakes, see how she turns the jet-set life into her fitness advantage.

What would you consider to be a ‘healthy lifestyle’?

Which is your favourite terrain to workout in?

To me, it’s all about balance. You need to find things that you

Any where in the world as long as it is by the water. When

enjoy because that is the key to maintaining it. It’s also important

I’m in South of France, I love to go for a walk or run on the

not to be too hard on yourself. Everyone goes at their own pace,

Promenade des Anglais in Nice. I do love to run by the lake

and we all need a break every now and then. Drinking loads of

in Geneva and I only live a few minutes away so I can always

water and getting enough sleep is already living a healthy lifestyle.

enjoy the scenery, no matter the season.

Why is it important to you?

Which studios do you rely on in your most travelled-to cities?

As my schedule is pretty chaotic with travelling and I’m constantly

In Geneva, I workout at L’Usine Opéra and I do my yoga at

on-the-go, it’s crucial for me to have a healthy lifestyle that

Insens. In London or New York I go to Equinox or I train with

involves a lot of yoga, personal training sessions, outdoor jogs,

a private trainer.

and a gluten-free diet (except on weekends). When I’m back home in Geneva, I workout three times a week with a trainer

Do you incorporate both cardio and weight training, or

and I take two yoga classes per week. It offers a good balance.

one or the other? workout indoors, I always start my training session by spending

I was a restless child so my parents had to find ways to keep

20minutes on the treadmill doing some intervals to get my

me busy and active all the time. I took ballet lessons for several

heart rate up. It’s the only way to burn the fat rapidly.

years, as well as horse riding and tennis classes. Even though I hated gym class I still liked to be active and play in the parks,

What books have you found helpful?

I was a real tomboy at heart – always returning home covered

I recently read Cameron Diaz’s book, which highlights some

in mud and grass! Being healthy wasn’t so much of a concern

interesting theories about nutrition. ‘Wheat Belly’ was a real

as I had such a fast metabolism but I became more aware

eye opener; it really made me realize how quashing wheat-

of what the word ‘healthy’ really entailed when I moved to

based products can change your body. It slows down your

London, there’s a lot more access to it there.

metabolism, it retains water and can also affect your mood. I

Image courtesy of Jean-Daniel Sudres/Hemis/Corbis

Absolutely. Cardio is very important for me, and when I Was this outlook instilled in you from an early age?

Promenade des Anglais in Nice, France

went wheat and gluten-free last summer and I’m feeling way

What’s your favourite sport?

more focused and my body looks leaner too. I do have cheat

The practice of yoga was offered to me at a very important

meals on weekends though, who doesn’t love a good pizza!

stage of my life, when I was about to take a 360° spin and I’m very grateful. It’s a beautiful practice and has a beautiful

Any post-workout meal recommendations?

philosophy. It’s a great full-body workout and also calms the

Avocado on gluten-free toast, quinoa salads and chia seed

mind. If you’re the kind of person who lives a lot in your head,

porridge in almond milk.

then yoga and meditation can help you unplug and go with the flow in life.

Who is your fitness inspiration? Without any doubt, Izabel Goulart for fitness and Gisele

How about water sport?

Bündchen for yoga.

I love waterbikes. They’re great for circulation in order to get rid of cellulite. It’s intense but you still never feel sore. Paddle

What beauty products do you turn to during a workout?

boarding is also a great workout and it requires a lot of balance

I use a Neutrogena sunblock and try not to wear any make-

which I’ve gained through my yoga practice. I spend all my

up, but if I have to, then I have Becca tinted moisturized with

winters in the Caribbean and my sister and I love to go paddle

SPF, my usual perfume from Le Labo and Clinique deodorant.

boarding in the ocean.

Image courtesy of Soraya Bakhtiar, Images courtesy of @sorayabakhtiar instagram

I also always carry a yoga mat, Sweaty Betty socks, a bottle of Evian or coconut water, a protein bar and headphones.

Does working out help with your mood? If I feel like I need to relax I’ll go for sun salutations (hatha

Incase you need to go straight to a workout from the office

yoga), and if I want to get rid of anger or repressed emotions

or plane, what do you have ready?

I’ll just go for a run while listening to my playlist and let all

I love Lulu Lemon and Sweaty Betty, these workout clothes

the negativity out.

feel like a second skin and they transition perfectly from home to the gym.

Do you find training your mind an important part of staying fit?

What benefits do you feel from moving your workouts

Absolutely, it’s all in the mind. I came to realize this with my

from indoors to outdoors?

yoga practice. It’s quite impressive how the mind controls our

After an outdoor workout I immediately feel energised, almost

body and once you go beyond your limits you realise that you

as if I have pushed a reset button. The air is very pure in

can achieve anything.

Switzerland so I always find it very refreshing to workout outdoors when I’m there. Even if it’s just once a week it helps

What’s your 2015 fitness goal?

me clear my head and forces me to breathe deeply and get

The New York Marathon in October, but in the meantime I

all the negative thoughts out.

have a lot of training to do!

144

M OJEH H ea lth

Photographed by Riccardo Vimercati, MOJEH Issue 16

We investigate the long-term effects that diet has on our complexion. By Oliver Robinson

The old adage – we are what we eat – has never

of the day. When a whole grain is crushed to make flour,

been truer. As our knowledge of nutrition increases,

all of the vitamins, nutrients, fibre and phytonutrients are

so does our understanding of how and what we eat

destroyed. The word ‘refined’ indicates the food has

affects our health – not just in terms of weight gain

been stripped of all the beneficial nutrition.’

and loss, but complexion, facial appearance and the

Milk, meanwhile, contains dozens of different hormones

skin’s ageing process.

and can raise insulin levels up to 300 percent. Maharaj

‘Our diet has a huge effect on your complexion,’ says

says that this has implications such as acne and other

international health and wellness expert, James Duigan,

skin conditions.

creator of the Bodyism programme and consultant for

Since sugar, dairy and flour permeate modern-day

One&Only Hayman Island and One&Only Reethi Rah.

foodstuffs, there’s real difficulty in trying to avoid them.

‘How you eat, what you eat, and even how you’re feeling

It would seem that the best strategy would be to focus

when you eat, will show in your skin. It’s important to

on the foods that benefit complexion and counteract

remember that the skin is the largest organ on your

the natural ageing process.

body. As you ingest more toxins through the food you

‘From the age of 30, melanin, which gives the skin

eat, your organs – and in fact your entire body – needs to

its colour, is more dispersed. Loss of radiance and

work harder in order to deal with them. As you overload

evenness in complexion are the first symptoms of

your system, it will eventually breakdown and accelerate

time,’ says Maharaj. ‘The skin’s surface appears dull

the ageing process.’

and lacks luminosity. It doesn’t reflect light as much.

Sugar, Duigan says, is the real enemy, ‘This is possibly

These processes can be counteracted with a diet rich

the most commonly abused and dramatically ageing

in phytonutrients, vitamins and minerals that assist the

substance in our diets today. Sugar drags the collagen

skin’s ability to cope better with the effects of ageing.

from our faces, quite literally ageing us as we eat. Sugar

The key element is increasing antitoxins both into the

is not your friend.’

diet and topical skincare protection.’

Not only is sugar not our friend, but it is a wily, underhand

One such antioxidant is carotenoid, which is responsible

adversary, disguising itself in the form of sucrose, corn

for the redness of tomatoes and peppers. A 2011 study

syrup, dextrose, maltose, glucose and fructose.

conducted by Nottingham University, UK, suggested

‘None of these have any nutritional value whatsoever,’

that by eating these fruits, along with foods such as

points out Rekha Maharaj, Senior Therapist and

plums and carrots, the redness eventually imbues the

Skincare Specialist at COMO Shambhala Urban Escape,

skin to give it a healthy-looking golden glow. Carotenoids

London. ‘It also enters the blood stream quickly spiking

are stored in fat under the skin as well as being secreted

blood sugar levels. Just like refined carbs and dairy, this

through the skin in serum and then reabsorbed into the

causes inflammation that leads to breakouts, rashes

top layer of the skin, bestowing a golden hue.

and dull skin. Eating a small amount of sugar creates a

‘Natural, fresh, colourful foods are powerful complexion

desire for more and abruptly quitting causes withdrawal

boosters,’ says Laura Holland co-founder of BeUtiful

symptoms like headaches, mood swings, cravings

Body. ‘You want to radiate, so you must eat light- and

and fatigue.’

life-filled foods. Essential fatty acids are wonderful for

The bad news doesn’t stop here. Sugar is but one

smoothing and creating suppleness in the skin – they are

ingredient on a long list of foodstuffs and additives that

also anti-inflammatory helping to reduce any redness,

will expedite the ageing of our skin. Maharaj also points

irritation or puffiness that sometimes appears on the

an accusatory finger at flour and dairy, saying, ‘Flour is

skins surface. EFA’s lubricate the body from within

challenging to avoid, as it’s involved in almost every meal

helping to alleviate dryness, dehydration and tightness in

146 the skin giving that beautiful glow. We can begin eating

skin-cell membranes strong and elastic. Meanwhile,

flaxseeds, chia seeds, pumpkin seeds, sunflower seeds,

olive oil contains antioxidants that can prevent chemical

avocados and cold pressed seed oils.’

reactions that lead to external assaults on, such as sun

Hollands says that we can supplement this diet by using

damage. ‘Try and always get your nutrients from organic,

sesame or coconut oil on our skin as a moisturiser –

local, seasonal foods,’ Duigan adds.

these are natural oils that can easily be absorbed by the

All the experts unanimously agree that hydration is one

skin. ‘They are full of essential fatty acids and vitamin

of the simplest, yet most important aspects of good skin.

E,’ continues Holland. ‘I love to use natural oils as they

‘It’s often under appreciated,’ agrees Holland. ‘I always

are free from chemicals and other binding agents, which

like to remind my clients that for life itself first we must

means they are just pure beautifying products.’

breathe, second we drink and then finally we eat, this is

In addition to essential fatty acids, Holland says that

the order of importance for our wellbeing and therefore

antioxidants are vital for bright complexion since

hydration is more important than our nutrition, without

they clear all the free radicals in our system that are

water there would be no life. Our skin needs to be fed

responsible for ageing and dulling the skin. ‘The more

this life giving force so it too can look radiant. Always

we can eat and use antioxidants in our skincare regime

drink room temperature water, never chilled, this causes

the brighter our complexion will be,’ she says. ‘We are

stress within your body and so is not as hydrating. Make

also safeguarding ourselves from premature ageing

sure you sip water evenly throughout the day providing

and the deepening of fine lines and wrinkles. Eating

a steady supply of hydration to your body and your

dark chocolate – an amazing antioxidant with a mineral

skin. This will also help your energy levels. Your body is

content that your skin loves – blueberries, goji berries,

mostly water, if we don’t drink enough then our system

acai berries and maqui berry powders can further help

becomes sluggish and heavy, toxins are slower moving

spring-clean your complexion.’

through the body and elimination is reduced. All of this

Holland also suggests antioxidant-rich facemasks with

will eventually take its toll on your skin, your complexion

honey and turmeric spice – a powerful anti-inflammatory

will become dull and you may even get breakouts, so

helping to reduce redness and heal breakouts, while

water is essential to keep your body in flow, on all levels,

leaving your complexion suitably radiant. She says to

helping you to feel light and clean, inside and out.’

combine one tablespoon of honey with one teaspoon

The Middle East’s climate, in particular is a contrast of

of turmeric, make a paste, and then cover the skin for

heat and air conditioning, which can be very dehydrating.

15 to 20 minutes.

Holland says that one of the most hydrating fluids – even

Eating green is also key. Many skin issues are due to

more hydrating than water – is coconut water. ‘It has an

an excess of heat or acid within the body, which as this

amazing amount of electrolytes and it’s bursting with

shows up through the to the skins surface in the form or

minerals that will feed your skin. The coconut is an ancient

spots, rashes and breakouts. This will also make your

beauty food and drinking the water not only is one of the

skin look dry as all the heat inside dehydrates your body.

most effective ways of hydrating your body its boosts

‘To counteract this , we need to include cool alkali foods

your nutrition too, glowing skin is not far away when you

like leafy greens, green vegetables, avocados, coconut

drink Mother Nature’s original sports drink!’

water, nettle tea and sea greens into our diet as they

Of course, the battle against the skin’s ageing process

are amazing for clearing the skin and encouraging a

cannot be won by diet alone. There are plenty of

glowing complexion,’ says Holland. ‘Spirulina powder

external factors that should also be taken into account.

is an excellent way to help increase your greens, just

Studies at the University of Edinburgh, UK, suggest

take one teaspoon in a large glass of water and drink

that ‘early childhood experiences, including nutrition,

daily, or you can add to your smoothies or juices. Aloe

illness, exposure to cigarette smoke and pollution, and

vera is another excellent cooling and calming plant

other aspects of a difficult upbringing leave their mark in

that we can either drink in liquid form to alkalize our

people’s facial features.’

body from within or use directly onto our skin to help

‘Smoking, without a doubt, effects the skin around the

reduce redness almost immediately. Aloe Vera feeds

mouth, as well as a horrific list of other health issues,’

the skin as its also very nutrient dense, whether we

points out Duigan. ‘As for exercise, it depends on the

eat it or apply topically.’

type of exercises that you do: the only one that has

Holland also recommends sea buckthorn, which she

been shown to possibly accelerate the ageing process

says has received a lot of exciting attention for being a

is long, steady-state cardio, such as jogging for an hour

powerful tonic for the skin – the berries are loaded with

or more each day, or even cycling, since it increases

nutrients and the rare omega-7, which is said to have

oxidation within the system. This isn’t to say running is

healing effects as well as nourishing and revitalising its

bad – but keen runners should consider upping their

appearance when taken as a capsule or used topically.

intake of antioxidants.’

‘There are many different supplements that you can get

‘It also needs to be considered that stress is

for sea buckthorn and you can also find creams so you

perhaps the most negative influencer on our

can use directly onto the skin too.’

health and wellbeing, including our complexion,’

Duigan, meanwhile, points to fish and plant-based

concludes Holland. ‘Taking steps to reduce stress

nutrients such as spinach, kale, and broccoli. Fish

and create calm within your system is essential for

contains plenty of omega-3 fatty acids that help keep

your body to remain youthful, vibrant and healthy.’

Photographed by Riccardo Vimercati, MOJEH Issue 16

148

Tal k ing P o i nt

In The

Midnight

Hour

Struggling to find a set mealtime routine has left many people with multiple digestive problems. With working

longer hours and eating late at night being citied as major factors, we discuss the small adjustments that can be made to routines as the sun comes up and then when it goes down.

Over-the-counter and prescribed anti-reflux

late into the evening, we often find ourselves turning

medication has been estimated to exceed in sales

toward processed junk food to quickly curb hunger.

of $13 billion per year. In recent years the number

‘Plan ahead and organise your dinners in advance.

of people suffering from indigestion and heartburn

More specifically, always have some cooked, grilled

problems has grown massively. Additionally,

or steamed veggies stored in your freezer ready to

hoarseness, difficulty swallowing and chronic throat

go so all you need to do is heat them up quickly,’

clearing are all systematic of acid reflux problems.

she advises.

More worryingly, studies have shown it can lead to

Studies have shown that eating late at night can

esophageal cancer, which has experienced a dramatic

attribute to the cause of weight gain, sleep apnea

increase in cases since the 1970s. What’s the one

and diabetes. The question is: what time should we

major contributing factor? Eating late at night.

stop eating before we say goodnight? ‘The problem

The growth in consuming food well into the evening

is not the late eating habit. You can eat late and stay

can be attributed to our poor diets, routine and

awake more than four hours and you will not have

lifestyle. As we continue to increase our daily sugar

the reflux problem. The problem is immediately lying

intake tenfold, along with soft drinks and fatty,

down after dinner, as your body is busy trying to digest

processed foods, the issue will only worsen. Dubai

what you have just eaten and produces lots of highly

and Munich-based Metabolism Expert Caroline

aggressive gastric acid, which makes its way up the

Bienert believes to try to curb it re-evaluating our

gullet. It’s a physical law and you cannot prevent this

starting daily routines is paramount. ‘A routine is the

through diet. The only method: eat light and wait a

most essential foundation for a healthy lifestyle. And

couple of hours before lying down,’ explains Caroline.

you should not make any compromises! Organise

To gain the most out of your personal mealtime

and schedule your eating habits as if they were work

schedule it’s essential to consider your metabolism.

or sports routines. Make them a priority in your

Time and type of foods are factors that must be

life: set times for breakfast, lunch and dinner. After

carefully selected. ‘The best situation for your

setting fixed times you will experience an overall

metabolism would be to eat four hours before bedtime

well-being, and much more energy for your daily

but if you can only make it two to three hours before

endeavours,’ she says.

bedtime, always eat light and no raw foods, as they

It comes with no surprise that over the past two

are especially hard to digest’, suggests Caroline.

decades eating later into the evening has become

Preparation and planning is key to its success.

commonplace within many households. As working

To improve the future of our health and well-being a

hours have increased so too has our last meal of the

significant lifestyle shift is vital. As our working hours

day. While trying to schedule in a workout after office

are set to continue to remain long, incorporating a

hours, the evening meal is often the last thing we do at

mealtime schedule is substantially beneficial for our

night before going to bed. Trying to readjust this type

bodies. Not only will it help to decrease a constant

of lifestyle is proving difficult for the masses. ‘There is

plague of our heartburn and digestive problems, but

an easy fix to this problem, especially, when it’s very

also it will impact on our overall appearance: inside

common for you to come home late from work after

and out. Staying up late and consuming food well

a long exhausting day,’ explains Caroline. As we eat

into the midnight hour is detrimental to our future.

w h i s p e r e d

B e au t y Photographed by Christophe Donna Styled by Guillaume Boulez

Face (throughout) Vitalumière Loose Powder Foundation N10, Jardin de CHANEL Blush Camélia Rosé | Eyes (throughout) Le Volume de CHANEL 10 Noir, CHANEL

Eyes, Les 4 Ombres 236 Tissé Fantaisie | Lips, Hydra Beauty Nourishing Lip Care, CHANEL

Eyes, Les 4 Ombres 238 Tissé Paris | Lips, Le Crayon Lèvres 91 Rose Délicat and Le Crayon Lèvres 92 Capucine, CHANEL

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Model: Melissa Gateau at Crystal Model Management Photographerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s assistant: Margaux Rodrigues Make-up artist: Annabelle Petit at Agence Aurelien Paris Make-up assistant: Lola Maunoury Hair stylist: Kazuko Kitaoka at Sybille Kleber Agency Manicurist: Leslie Dumeix Production: Louis Agency

Eyes, Les 4 Ombres 238 TissĂŠ Paris | Lips, Hydra Beauty Nourishing Lip Care, CHANEL

158

A rt is t I n R es i de nce

rose of the City By Mehrnoush Shafiei

We speak to Tom Young whoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s latest exhibition The Rose House draws to light the importance of preserving a city.

British painter Tom Young may not be the first name

Art imitating life

that springs to mind when one thinks of political artists,

Working during a summer of heightened political

but with his recent Beirut exhibition, The Rose House,

uncertainty, the aesthetics of Young’s paintings took

he has certainly earned that distinction. A meditation

on the emotional tenor of what was happening in the

on the themes of memory, loss and transformation,

city in real time. Perhaps the most striking example

Young has created a series of sensuous paintings of

of this is his Rose of the City. In the middle of putting

Beirut’s landmarks, like the Luna Park Ferris wheel

the finishing touches on this piece, a car bomb went

and the old lighthouse, in an effort to bring much-

off in close proximity to The Rose House. The jolt

needed attention to the importance of preserving the

prompted Young to splash paint at the completed

city’s heritage sites.

work – infusing a nihilistic hint to an otherwise tranquil

His works are inspired by an iconic 19th century

and peaceful work of beauty. But it is exactly the

Lebanese mansion dubbed The Rose House, a place

interplay of contrasts that has always captured

Young was fortunate enough to call his studio this

Young’s imagination. ‘What I love about Beirut is that

past summer. Tucked away on an out-of-sight hill,

– though the violence is swift – once there is lull, the

the storied house has the unique advantage of being

city picks off exactly where it left off. Renewal is part

in the heart of the city and also set slightly apart.

of the fabric of the place.’

Overlooking the magnificent Mediterranean Sea,

Life affirming in its nature, the exhibition is far from

The Rose House is a lesson in traditional Levantine

simply romanticising some sort of paradise lost,

architecture. ‘This is one of the few remaining

instead, it’s about the tension that exits between

buildings like this in Beirut, and it is important

past and present. Sentimentality is not at the centre

that we raise awareness to prevent it from being

of Young’s paintings, it is at the periphery – the

destroyed,’ Young says.

future is what is really at the core of his work. ‘I am

A clear labor of love, every piece of the exhibition

interested in the vision of what this house once was

serves as a vehicle to engage with the quiet politics

and what it could be.’

of this equally soft-spoken artist, a call to action to counter the rapid growth of residential towers that aggressively penetrate Beirut’s skyline – monstrosities, according to some people’s taste. Unlike many political artists, who emanate whiffs of elitism and work in inaccessible abstractions, Young’s work has a real sense of urgency. ‘I only had a limited amount of time so it was a race against the clock,’ he says. Paint brush in hand, he arrived at The Rose House in June and a feverish production of work followed. His paintings, however, look unrushed and exude palpable incandescence – a fitting tribute to a house that, while empty, continues to brim with a genuine warmth and character. Young’s belief that art should be inclusive fueled his move to unchain his work from the confines of a traditional gallery and instead present the exhibition at The Rose House itself. ‘I wanted this house to be opened up to everyone – all ages, backgrounds and religions,’ he says. Since the unveiling of the exhibition in mid-November, all sorts of people have visited The Rose House -- from gardeners, to taxi drivers to politicians, and even the Lebanese First Lady has 1942

made an appearance. ‘I believe that art and beauty is for everybody,’ he says. Perhaps one of the reasons the exhibition has been so wildly popular is because it fosters a sense of community and togetherness that is becoming increasingly rare in Beirut, as vast amounts of public space are being appropriated by private interests. On the days Young is present at the exhibition, it is a testament to his success that he can barely carry on a conversation for more than five minutes without being interrupted by a multitude of wellwishers coming to offer congratulations and express their gratitude for his work.

Rise and Fall

160

Let The Light In

Rose of the City

Interior Rising

In line with his future-oriented vision is his effort to get children involved with art. In recent days, groups of young children have visited The Rose House, delighting in the sense of magic and serenity of the place. ‘Some of these children’, Young explains, ‘are orphans of the war, they have no idea where they come from or who their parents are, for these children issues of identity and memory are part of their reality.’ ‘Maybe in some ways they are more free,’ he muses.

The artist and his studio Part incubator and part refuge, a painter’s studio – an elusive space accessible to only a privileged few – can offer a glimpse into the psyche of the artist. Reflective of his generous nature, Young is one of those rare artists that prefer to present his paintings as site-specific installations from where he works. Touring The Rose House, remnants of his discarded tools and jars of paint can be spotted, adding to the charm of the experience and reflecting a painter who is no longer an outsider but is firmly immersed in the world he chooses to depict. Young first landed in Beirut in late spring of 2006 when he was commissioned to do a series of landscape paintings for a British-Lebanese family. By chance he stumbled on The Rose House and was immediately impressed by its exterior grandeur. Months later, when he returned home to his native England, Lebanon was suddenly besieged by war. ‘I was sitting at home and watching it all on television, feeling frustrated and overwhelmed by emotion.’ He vowed to return and by 2009 he had made Lebanon his home, where he

Wheel

taught art and held workshops in Beirut’s suburbs for disadvantaged children. Then one day, after eight years of admiring the house from afar, Young showed up

Surprised to learn that both El Khazen’s late brother

unannounced and knocked on the door.

and sister were also artists, Young surrounded himself

His spontaneity was rewarded, the sole resident,

with their paintings as he worked, their memory lingering

Fayza El Khazen – a piquantly lovely woman whose

over his own paintings. If you happen to stumble out on

family has owned the house for over 50 years –

the balcony of The Rose House and look hard enough,

granted him permission to use the space as his studio

you will encounter a very small beige-tinged card that

while she spent the next few months preparing to

mysteriously reads ‘incarnation’ – perhaps a small nod

leave. While El Khazen was packing her memories and

of recognition to the kindred spirits of these late artists.

coming to terms with the pain of moving on, Young

‘I believe that maybe my brother and sister sent Tom

painted the house’s emptiness and the inhabited

to me to help make my leaving this house easier,’

absences that began to reveal themselves as the

El Khazen says with palpable emotion. Wittingly or

place was stripped bare.

unwittingly, this sentiment in some ways captures

‘I chose a way of life in which I could process my

the very essence of the exhibition – the idea that

sense of loss, and by doing so, transform it into

preservation does not necessarily mean allowing things

something beautiful,’ Young says of his motivation to

to remain unchanged. Change – if productive and not

become an artist. El Khazen shares his belief in the

destructive – is good when brought about by forces of

power of art, when dealing with loss and have they

nonviolent transformation, renewal and rebirth. If this is

developed an easy, familial chemistry that encouraged

the goal of Young’s work, he has succeeded. Spurred

him to fully immerse himself in the spirit of the place.

by the early success of the exhibition, the new owner of

With his pleasant and thoughtful nature, it only takes

the building made a public promise on opening night to

a few minutes in Young’s orbit to sense the inner

restore The Rose House and not tear it down.

equipoise he possesses and to appreciate that there

With a heartfelt belief that the fate of the house and

could not have been an artist more temperamentally

city are intimately intertwined, El Khazen remarks that,

suited to take on this project. El Khazen admits that

‘With the restoration of the house, I feel in some ways,

she never felt discomfited by his presence: ‘He was

Lebanon will also be restored.’ An apt reminder that,

quietly painting in a corner, with discretion, delicacy

sometimes, the greatest transformations begin at home.

and lightness’, she says.

The Rose House exhibition runs until end of December.

162

m y Wo r l d

Creature

Comforts

Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m always after comfort and elegance â&#x20AC;&#x201C; I like to dress up and dress down. I do have a soft spot for ruffles, bows and polka dots and I like minimal make up, messy hair and distressed jeans.

Maha wears top by BAMBAH collections, vintage jeans

Founder and owner of Bambah Boutique, Bambah collections and co-founder of Zoo, Maha Abdul Rasheed, knows a thing or two about good style. Here she gives us a rare glimpse inside her home and shows us a few of her favourite things.

I picked these up from Vintage Bar in Paris. They’re one of the most special pieces in my closet and there was just something about the colour that screamed my name.

This is a picture of Hussein - my brother and business partner - and I on our first day of school in Kuwait. We’re only a year apart so we more or less grew up as best friends. Love that picture as it brings back great memories of our upbringing in Kuwait.

This is the best definition of vintage. Here I am with my dad a few years ago visiting the house that he was born in in Cairo. We’re in old Cairo, very close to Tahrir square.

This is where I spend a lot of my time, aka ‘my cosy corner’. Maha wears vintage Moschino

164 That giraffe is one of the coolest accessories I’ve ever come across! We bought it for The Zoo from a designer from Hong Kong at a trade show in New York last season. I wore it with a white t shirt and a pair of jeans and got a lot of great reviews!

My baby brother got me this pair of Manolos with his first salary, so they mean a lot to me. The bananas and red chillies were a great find from a flea market in Paris a few years ago – we think they were from the eighties, so fun to wear!

These are actually fridge magnets turned earrings. I picked them up in Khan Al Khalili, a traditional Egyptian market in Cairo, and decided to completely turn them around.

My brother collected this poster from a unique store in Cairo and they resemble classic Egyptian movies. I love it when an outfit makes a strong statement that says something about the person – more about standing out rather blending in. Ultimately I don’t believe there should be any rules when it comes to fashion and I don’t usually follow trends – I think it’s all about the overall look and how pieces fit in together. Maha wears orchid inspired dress from the SS15 Bambah collection

I love vintage and I always look for ways to mix and match different shapes, styles and textures. I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t like putting in too much effort with fashion and I shy away from utter perfection.

I picked this up from a book store in Paris as I really admire Parisian street style and the way French women dress. I like how theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re always so simple yet so chic.

How can I resist this face! This is my beautiful cat Tahina who is almost two years old and brings so much joy to my life.

166

M OJEH E x p l o r e r

Tribal

Tranquilities Recharge your batteries and reinvigorate your mind, body and soul this January by opting for a luxurious escape that defies the status quo. Kenya’s calling.

‘Why, hello there. How are you this morning?’

have become accustomed to humans and are

My question remains unanswered since I’m

happy to take food off them. But the giraffes are

speaking to a giraffe. The creature is peering

by no means tame. Guests are warned not to

through my second-floor bedroom window, while

try and pet them as they would a horse, and to

I lie half asleep on a sizeable four-poster bed. It’s

head indoors if a giraffe approaches the property’s

just another morning at Giraffe Manor, a former

terrace. These are wild animals. A kick from a

hunting lodge turned luxury retreat for humans

giraffe can kill a lion, meaning an SLR-wielding

and sanctuary for the rare Rothschild Giraffe.

tourist would stand no chance.

My guest is hoping for a spot of breakfast and

The manor is the first stop of my Kenya visit. After

I oblige by feeding it a handful of pellets that

an in-room massage and a breakfast of fresh

have been left on my bedside table by the staff.

fruit, I’m driven to a nearby airstrip to catch an

These kind of wake-up calls are to be expected

hour-long flight to Sasaab, a luxury lodge in the

at Giraffe Manor –the long-necked residences

northern territories, deep in Samburu country.

Image courtesy of Yann Arthus-Bertrand/Corbis

By Oliver Robinson

Giraffe Manor

Peering through the window of the small

disinterested females and calves are now some

Cessna Caravan aircraft, I see the landscape

way ahead, he quickly loses interest and turns

below transform from lush greens to arid yellow

to follow them.

and, finally, the dusty reds synonymous with

We let out a collective sigh of relief, including,

the Laikipia Plateau.

I notice, our guide. If he was worried, then

We land with a bump and are ushered out onto

our standoff must have been more serious

the hot tarmac of the M-Pesa airstrip, where

than perhaps we’d realised. Our driver

our guide, bedecked in full Samburu regalia,

restarts the jeep, and with a cough and a

greets us with a warm smile and cool drinks.

splutter we resume the trundle through the

The drive to Sasaab is a couple of hours, he

bush towards Saasab.

tells us. And hopefully we’ll be treated to a few

If there was ever a good place to unwind

animal sightings along the way.

after a confrontation with a musth elephant,

He’s true to his word. Thirty minutes later and

it’s here. The retreat, owned and run by the

we’re driving alongside a herd of elephants.

Safari Collection, somehow manages to be

The gentle procession of tusks and trunks

rustic yet luxurious at the same time. On arrival,

is heading down to the Ewaso Ng’iro River

we’re greeted with cold towels – a refreshing

to wash, drink and play. All is well until the

conclusion to the two-hour drive from the

musth elephant – a hulking, hormonally charged

airstrip, and an invigorating start to our stay.

bull – takes umbrage with our presence. He

We’re then led down a rocky, hillside pathway

stands just metres away, staring at our jeep

to our lodgings. En route, our guide stops

with malignant intent.

us to point out a pair of dik-diks sheltering

‘Quiet!’ whispers our guide. There’s an urgency

underneath a bush. The animals that are best

to his voice that we daren’t ignore, and our

described as miniature antelopes, though they

carful of chattering khakis and cameras comes

wouldn’t look out of place in Narnia. Our

to an abrupt silence.

guide tells us that dik-diks pair for life and are

I daren’t breathe, let alone move, and am

unable to survive without their partner – when

irritated and terrified to equal measure when two

one dies or is killed in the wild, the other will

of my fellow passengers – Americans – begin

die too. Heart warming and heart breaking

whispering to one another. Their ‘whispers’

to equal measure.

are tantamount to shouts – at least it feels

Our lodgings take the shape of a large

this way, deep in the otherwise silent bush.

permanent tent, although the word ‘tent’ is a

Our guide throws the two chattering monkeys

huge injustice to the majestic canvas structure,

a dark glance and silence prevails once again.

which houses an elevated four-poster bed,

The bull flaps his huge ears and stomps

Moroccan-style cushions, lamps, and tiling,

towards us. But seeing the herd of otherwise

a spacious en suite bathroom, complete with

168

Sasaab Resort

warm water and an old-fashioned writing desk

I’m told that Sasaab’s health and fitness

that I half expect to see Hemmingway hunched

classes, overseen by a personal trainer who

over. Outside, on the private terrace overlooking

flies out from Nairobi every couple of weeks,

the Ewaso Ng’iro, are a pair of sun loungers and

are particularly popular. My stay doesn’t

a private plunge pool. Rusticity meets luxury.

coincide with such a visit, which I can’t say

The serene stillness of the place induces a

I’m too worried about.

calmness that I’ve never known before. I sit

Refreshed, I’m ready to venture beyond

on the terrace, book in hand, but I gaze out

Sasaab’s gates and back into the wilderness.

across the Laikipia Plateau, picking apart the

I find a guide and driver, and the three of us

landscape, shrub by shrub, rock by rock, until

head down to the river. Here we find elephants

my wandering eyes climb up Mount Kenya

are wallowing in the mud, finding respite from

looming in the distance. There’s nothing in

the hot afternoon sun. There’s no sign of the

particular to look at, but at the same time there’s

musth, for which we’re all thankful.

too much to take in.

After negotiating the shallow waters, we

I realise that I’ve been gazing out into the

drive into the game reserve and my guide is

wilderness for nearly a couple of hours. The

immediately alert to a presence in the distance.

time is 6pm, so I have little under an hour to

I strain my eyes, but nothing stands out from

perform my ablutions and dress for dinner. Just

the reds, browns and tired-greens of the bush.

before 7pm, a member of staff comes to my

Of course, I don’t have the eyes of a Samburu

door to guide me through the fading light to

– eyes that have already spotted a pride of

the restaurant, where I find fellow guests sat

lions taking shade under a tree. The guide

around one long table.

points me in the right direction and I can just

Dinnertime conversation is accompanied by the

about make out four languid bodies stretched

hum of the night – a chorus of creatures great

amidst the parched yellow grass.

and small crying out into the dark. The sound

The lionesses are disinterested in our

is intoxicating and invigorating.

approach, so we’re able to get within a

While safari is the main activity on offer at

few metres of them. The driver turns off

Sasaab, the camp happens to be the best

the ignition, and the three of us sit in awed

retreat and spa in Kenya – so says the most

silence. One of the lionesses bears two

recent instalment of the Safari Awards. The

suckling cubs, which, once they’ve had their

facility is built into the hillside, boasting terrific

fill, proceed to tease their mother, biting her

views of the valley, as well as offering full body

ears and tumbling over her enormous head.

massages and facial treatments. The pampering

She soon disciplines them with a hefty bat of

almost feels incongruous with the setting, but I

the paw, and they scurry off to taunt another

don’t let that bother me for too long.

of the sleeping lionesses.

Image courtesy of Jonathan & Angela Scott/JAI/Corbis

After some time, the driver and guide nod to

My life of traffic and tower blocks feels like a

one another and we start off again. There are

distant memory, but one that I must return to.

reports of a leopard sighting further into the

This thought troubles me as I make my way

reserve, which my guide is keen to check out.

back towards the airstrip the following day. The

After a good hour of scouring the bush, we

lazy morning sun is making its appearance in

discover that the leopard has long gone and the

the east, casting a gentle red glow over the

big, red African sun begins to kiss the horizon.

savannah. I take a deep breath and take in the

It’s time for us to return to camp. It had been

vista. There’s something in the air, the view,

a day of contrasts – luxury spa treatments,

the indistinguishable chirps and murmurs of a

lions and long-gone leopards. As the sun slinks

thousand unseen species. I have to trade all

down beyond the horizon, the dusk begins to

this in, but at least I’m ready to face city life,

hum with nocturnal life: grasshoppers, tree

again, reinvigorated yet relaxed and armed

frogs, the far-off cry of a baboon…

with a fresh perspective.

170

M OJEH E x p l o r e r

In My Shoes Italian shoe designer Cecilia Bringheli takes us into her world. Where’s next to discover and which pair of CB Made in Italy shoes will she be treading new ground in?

Where did you grow up? Milan | How does your normal day in the city go? I walk my dog, have breakfast, go to the office, have a coffee and read my emails. My mood will then change throughout the day dependant on the emails I receive | What shoes do you use to walk in? All of our shoes are made with the best Italian craftsmanship and new technologies, so I would say any CB style are great for a long walk | Where were you when you brought your first pair of shoes? It was during a trip to California when my grandfather lived there – they were gold Nike trainers with silver stripes. I fell in love and wore them until they died! | Where was your first fashion experience? When I was young I’d go to Bergdorf Goodman in New York to see the young talent, I loved immersing myself in new things | Describe your own style: Less is more | What defines a person? The way you talk, the elegance you have and the way you treat others | How does the CB Made in Italy brand reflect these values? Its timeless, durable, chic and versatile – you can dress them up or down | What’s your motto in life? Never without a smile | Do you ever get angry? It’s good to get mad sometimes, but only for two seconds and then I’ll snap out of it. That’s why I really love to travel, it opens up my mind and makes me worry less about the small things | Where in the world is most special to you? The Amalfi Coast, especially Positano where we spent all our summers growing up. It’s the most wonderful place in the world. I named my first design after it, the Positano slipper, it always reminds me of the place and takes me back to our days spent there | As an adult, where is your favourite holiday spot? Ibiza. I can fly there from Milan at any time in the year in just a few hours. | How does it make you feel? Free. The place is alive, its energy is infectious | What’s next on the bucket list? In life my decisions come from a feeling, my heart, my instinct. I would love to go to India as soon as possible, the country is full of vibrant colours and I can’t wait to see and experience them | What did you like about the Middle East and which CB shoes did you explore in? I liked the Middle East a lot and loved the fact that you have the variation of beaches and skyscrapers. The restaurants are also amazing which is a must for any Italian! I wore the new Piazzettas because they’re unlined and super soft and fresh | Where do you go to escape? The islands around Sicily – it requires a boat and a group of friends and is really one of the best experiences available | What music do you listen to while there? If I want to relax then jazz and if I want to sing, happy Italian music | If you could buy a house anywhere in the world, where would it be? I’m not sure yet, still so much left to discover!

The Amalfi Coast

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