ISSUE 26 by MOJEH

NÂ° 26 APRIL

Fashion In Full Bloom

Memories Last Forever

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14 Chairman SHAHAB IZADPANAH

EDITORIAL

PUBLISHING

Editor in Chief MOJEH IZADPANAH

Publishing Director RADHIKA NATU

Associate Editor SHERI IZADPANAH

Publishing Assistant DESIREE LABANDA-GAVERIA soheil Najafian razavi

Managing Editor KELLY BALDWIN

Paris Representative GHISLAIN DE CASTELBAJAC

Digital Assistant Editor Jake Hamilton

Senior Advertisement Manager Pamela Bayram Cleave

Guest Fashion Editors GUILLAUME BOULEZ IGI AYEDUN SANTA BEVACQUA

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Fashion Writer susan devaney

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Senior Editorial Assistant Natalie Trevis

LOUIS FOURTEEN FOR MOJEH

Editorial Assistant CHarlotte codd

Concierge Service Management ASSMA AHMED

Digital Editorial Assistant Christopher Prince

Head of Lifestyle OLGA KOVALCHUK

Contributing Copy Editor SOPHIE RUST

Corporate Manager JUBRAN HAMATI

ART

Manager IT Division Ali Roman

Producer LOUIS AGENCY

Senior Stylist MARIAN GIRGIS

Art Director AMIRREZA AMIRASLANI Digital Strategy LOUIS AGENCY Contributing Photographers AMAR DAVED AMBER GRAY BORNA AHADI JULIEN VALLON OLIVIER ROSE sarvenaz hashtroudi

Cover photographed by Amber Gray, model wears dress by Christian Dior

Published under HS Media Group FZ LLC Registered at Dubai Design District Building No. 8, Offices 212 P.O.Box 502333, Dubai, UAE. WWW.MOJEH.COM Louis Fourteen for MOJEH Follow us on Twitter @MOJEH_Magazine MOJEH Swiss Representative Office: Rue de Rive 4, 1204 Geneva, Switzerland Average qualified circulation (January-June 2014): 14,184 copies. For the UAE printed by Emirates Printing Press LLC. Distribution- UAE: Al Nisr Distribution LLC. Qatar: Dar Al Sharq. Bahrain: Jashanmal & Sons BSC (C). Oman: United Media Services LLC. Lebanon: Messageries Du Moyen-Orient The publishers regret that they cannot accept liability for error or omissions contained in this publication, however caused. The opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessary those of the publishers. Readers are advised to seek specialist advice before acting on information contained in this publication which is provided for general use and may not be appropriate for the readers particular circumstances. The ownership of trademark is acknowledged, therefore reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. All credits are subjects to change. Copyright HS MEDIA GROUP FZ LLC 2011

M o j eh C o ntent s

SOCIETY 26. INSPIRATION SNAPSHOT What will we be investing in this season? Discover the pieces we’ve eternally fallen in love with.

30. être élégant From her style to career, her sense of individuality reigns. With her fashion footing firmly in place, consultancy director Yasmin Sewell lets us into her world.

34. THIS IS FORTY Is 40 the not-so magic number in Hollywood? We investigate why female actresses are being dealt an unfair hand.

FASHION 38. PLAYING THE BLUES

72. MEET ME IN PARIS

From azure to cornflower to navy, peruse our edit

The newly appointed creative director of Sonia Rykiel,

of this season’s most covetable hue. Come play

Julie de Libran, tells us why she feels at home with

the blues with us.

the French fashion house.

60. THE BURSTING HEART

74. PAS DE DEUX

Her own fashion fairytale is just as fascinating as she.

The fashion industry has collided with the art world for

Russian supermodel Natalia Vodianova tells us about

spring. From striking colours to dramatic prints, find

her past, present and future dreams.

out why fashion is in the hands of the artist.

64. LAWS OF ATTRACTION

100. IT’S A WOMAN’S WORLD

Fashion is dabbling with sexiness this season.

As the gender boundaries look set to continue to blur,

Find out why it’s all about understated elegance

we discuss where men and women’s designs sit in

with a tomboyish charm.

the world of fashion.

20 ACCESSORIES 146. ACCESS THE STREET From Seventies’ eyewear to looped belts, we’ve homed in on the winning accessories straight from the street for the year ahead.

160. BEAUTY IN THE BUGS Why are women always drawn to insect-inspired jewellery? Find out why bugs are once again finding their place in the spotlight.

168. STAR STATUS From Julianne Moore to Sandra Bullock, Hollywood’s stars continue to be adorned in high jewellery on the red carpet – but does it make you want to invest?

BEAUTY

CULTURE

174. KABUKI BEAUTY

194. GEMS OF WISDOM

Bring in summer with the Asian touch. From skincare

We don’t know how she does it. From jewellery designing

to hairstyles, our edit of looks from the runway exude

to motherhood to giving out legal advice, Roberta

the continent’s exotic majesty.

Calarese gives us an insight into her hectic world.

178. TIMELESS TRESSES

208. SISTERS IN BUSINESS

It’s time to pick your timeless tress: ice queen, fringe

Sisters are doing it for themselves. We find out why it’s

benefit, power pony or carefree crop? Find out which

the bond between sisters that’s proving to be paramount

one speaks to you.

to success within the fashion industry in the UAE.

190. THE SPIRITUALITY SHIFT

214. Her Style, Her World

Why is mindfulness becoming a form of meditation?

Christie’s recently appointed creative director of

MOJEH contributor Oliver Robinson investigates

Design 20/21 Ambra Medda discusses her style,

the rising trend.

travels and route to success.

Colourful, distinct, compelling – our front

beauty looks straight from the streets of the most

cover displays all the characteristics reflecting

recent round of fashion weeks.

April’s styling opportunities. Photographed in

Growing up between the Middle East, Canada

San Francisco’s Japanese Tea Garden and

and Europe, I was fortunate enough to study and

nestled between the early blooms of April, our

absorb the way many different women – each

mesmerising model wears pieces from Christian

exceptionally elegant and well put together – took

Dior’s collection in such a way that questions

the trends of their cities and made them their

and distorts any traditional notions of style. Black

own. Today our globalised world allows these

latex gloves for summer, a sports-shaped top as

ideologies to bleed into one another as we take

evening-wear and an inherently Parisian brand

inspiration from everyone and everywhere. This

saluting the traditions of Asian style. For our first

issue celebrates many of these women. Born in

annual ‘Style’ issue, we felt it apt to celebrate

Australia to Lebanese parents and now based

the opportunities to be found when throwing out

in London with her young family, consultant and

the rulebook, because today’s fashion system

designer Yasmin Sewell tells us why she loves

is led by the woman: what she wants to wear

to surround herself with powerful females. Even

and how she chooses to wear it. No slave to

closer to home, we photographed three sets of

any system. As designers and editors, it’s our

business partners who each happen to be linked

task to offer a plethora of options, some safe

by blood. Turn to ‘Sisters in business’ for a look

and others not so. In light of this, our first April

at why some of the most successful enterprises

issue is about presenting the tools to take the

of our era begin at childhood. And, as we learnt

trends of our time and make them your own.

on each of their photo-shoots, there’s nothing

Whether you lean towards structure and rigour or

more enjoyable than working with your favourite

take a more carefree and nonchalant approach

females on a daily basis.

to your wardrobe, peruse through our edit from

We hope you have as much fun with our first

high fashion and high-jewellery to the hair and

April issue as we did making it.

Follow me on Twitter and Instagram @Mojeh_I and write to me at editor@mojeh.com

Mojeh Izadpanah Editor in Chief

Photographed by OLIVIER ROSE

E d i t o r ’s L ette r

E d i t o r ’s SN A P SHOT s

A pril

SHOWERS 6

Neutral tones are brought to life with shades that mirror your jewellery box. Deep blues lead the way for the season’s khaki colours to slip over your arm or on your feet, whilst Fabergé’s drop down earrings bring sapphire and ruby to add luxury to an otherwise simple look.

13 11

GIORGIO ARMANI PRIVÉ

I n sp i r ati o n SNA PSHOT

Style Fixes As Yves Saint Laurent famously stated - ‘fashions fade, style is eternal.’ Whilst each season brings new and exciting collections, it is the staples that are everpresent and form the backdrop to any covetable trend. So while we can’t wait to snap up the latest offerings in our style issue, first we look to the eternals.

1 6

5 7

2 4 3

S t yl e I ns ider

The Magical World of MATAR

Does your heritage influence your design at all and will it continue to do so as you expand internationally? Absolutely, it has an intrinsic role on my design process. I have always gravitated towards the rich textures and embroideries that are an intrinsic part of the region and I plan on developing them further and modernising them. Please describe the woman that wears

The woman who wears MATAR is discerning, stylish and adventurous, much like the designer herself. We sit down with Londonbased Bahraini, Hind Matar, who launched her namesake collection in 2014, to find out just what it is that inspires her.

your label. The MATAR client is discerning, stylish and adventurous. She is attracted to garments that are not seasonal, garments with a powerful timeless identity. Looking back, was there a key figure or influence that led to you becoming a designer? I wanted to become a designer since I could remember. My parents reinforced my conviction with the way they raised us. They gave each one of us the space to imagine and pursue our dreams. They are both incredibly cerebral yet appreciate beauty and physical appearance. A more eloquent way of highlighting Designer Hind Matar

this point is in the below conversation between [journalist] Tariq Ali and [theorist]

How would you describe the DNA of

Edward Said:

MATAR?

Tariq Ali: Now I have to ask you a very

The brand identity is thought provoking,

important theoretical question which Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve

sensual and celebrates youth. It explores

avoided so far, and that goes as follows: Is

fresh perspectives on femininity through a

it possible to be a serious intellectual and a

sensual yet avant-garde lens. Our unique

dandy? Is it possible to be a serious dandy

selling point is to produce progressive

and an intellectual?

collections that have a surreal tactile

Edward Said: Resoundingly yes, to both

quality, hard-to-find textiles and highly

questions. I think only a serious intellectual

experimental textures.

can take an interest in appearances,

MATAR explores abstract concepts and

because appearances are very important.

narratives such as weightlessness, the

And only somebody who is seriously

awkward beauty of flowers in bloom and

interested in appearances can be a serious

3D animation based on flipbooks.

intellectual, and care about things of the mind. Because things of the mind are

Please tell us about the process of

interesting only insofar as they manifest

creating your SS15 collection, what

themselves in attractive appearance.

MATAR spring/summer 2015 collection

and why?

Your brand has grown internationally

Coney Island in the 1950s was the main

over the past twelve months, what does

source of inspiration: the loops, wooden

2015 hold for your label?

scaffolding of roller coasters, the candy

2015 will be a very exciting and busy year.

stands, spinning rides, where people are

I am designing a capsule collection for the

plunged upside down screaming with

Bahraini Pavilion at the Milan Expo. I will

excitement as well as the search for lost youth.

also be participating in Dubaiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Fashion

I have always gravitated to the 50s and 60s.

Forward event as well as designing

The films, novels, and images of that era

costumes for a new film my sister Hala

(after World War II) have a distinct quality to

will be directing in the summer. I am also

them. I was keen to celebrate the legacy of

planning on launching a small jewellery

some of these fascinating forgotten stories.

collection by the end of the year.

All images courtesy of MATAR.

was your biggest source of inspiration

Photographed by Valentina Frugiuele

30 S o c i ety B elles

Yasmin Sewell

Etre ElEgant We meet fashion powerhouseYasmin Sewell as she embarks on her next collaboration with Aspinal of London, telling us why her world is a woman’s one.

‘When I meet with Middle Eastern women, I feel that instant connection,’ fashion consultant and designer Yasmin Sewell told us when meeting with her in London during fashion week. ‘They seem to have a deeper spirituality setting, very intuitive and full of energy, I can’t get enough of it.’ Born to Lebanese parents but raised in Australia, Yasmin spent her formative years as part of a strong Middle Eastern community down under. She now lives in the East London with her husband and business partner Kyle Robinson and their two young children. She longs however, to spend more time in the Middle East and in the company of its women, for connection means everything to Yasmin. She has after all, built three successful companies, including a brand consultancy firm and a fashion line, based on instinct. ‘I have to work with many different brands and that really comes down to who I connect with: ’do they get me and do I get them?’ You can have the most amazing idea in the world but if the connection’s not there then it will never work,’ she explains. Yasmin is the essence of chic. Today she has her hair down in the classic Yasmin bob (all chocolaty ringlets in it’s enviably bouncy manner), and she wears a mid-length black crepe dress from Être Cécile, the clothing line that she set up with Robinson and Jemma Dyas. ‘We wanted to create something that was a little different, a bit more quirky. For instance a t-shirt or dress that can easily be dressed up Aspinal of London’s Mariya Dykalo

or down. A little LA, a little Parisian,’ she says. ‘We want to keep it tongue in cheek and glamorous.’ ‘With Etre Cecile I’ve only done three collaborations and they’re always about the people that I love,’ she says. And today we’re meeting in London’s Savile Club to celebrate her latest project with Aspinal of London and its creative director Mariya Dykalo. ‘I’ve known Yasmin for about two years now,

we met at an event and hit it off straight away so we later designed a special bag for her,’ says Mariya. ‘It was fun and unlike anything else we’d created in the past, it had a contrast and was very unique.’ In light of its success, the creatives have once again teamed up for a special collection of bags and accessories that marry the classic and neat Aspinal aesthetic with the witty and fun character of Yasmin and Être Cécile. Inside the Savile Club, we find beautifully crafted bags in functional and timeless shapes but with fabrics and patterns re-worked to meet Yasmin’s edgy nature. Key pieces include the Mayfair, mini-trunk clutch and sports inspired rucksacks built with soft nappa leathers in contrasting checked colours and disproportionate 90s prints. ‘We wanted to keep the structured, boxy style of the bags so it really came down to finding the Être Cécile character with the patterns and prints,’ said Mariya. ‘It’s a great mix of classic and high-fashion.’ ‘Aspinal is very classic and understated but it can also be exciting. Everything is moving towards timeless styles, but women still want innovation and something they can sink their teeth into,’ says Mariya. And here, where two unique and instinctive minds come together, is where we find it. ‘I love working with Mariya, we’ve tuned into each other so well. In fact most of my team are women for this very reason,’ says Yasmin. Like many of her collaborations (and in sync with where the industry is moving), her love for women is a ruling factor. ‘I’m all about supporting each other, I really am. I think that maybe since I became a mum for the first time three years ago, I have so much respect for women, especially those

Like many of her collaborations - and in sync with where the industry is moving - her love for women is a ruling factor.

who are multitasking – trying to do so much and maintain their lives,’ says Yasmin. ‘Women understand each other a bit more, it works.’ Women working with women, designing for women. For Yasmin, Mariya, Être Cécile and Aspinal of London, the proof is in the effortlessly chic print etched across the essential tote and the spacious, functional nature of the mini-rucksack. Nothing short of perfect.

S o c i ety F eatu re

This is forty Something’s going on in Hollywood. From leaked Sony emails detailing a gender pay gap between huge Hollywood players to the disbelief in the existence of ageism - why are women the ones being dealt an unfair hand?

is rare. The majority of scripts I am sent are with a lead male of twenty-five to forty,’ Wicksteed told us. It’s fair to say that women feel unfairly represented through the constant portrayal of uncomplicated characters and want to see this change. ‘I hear a lot from actresses (and their agents) that they are fed up of always playing the supporting, one-dimensional role,’ she confirms. From Sydney Prosser’s deceptiveness to

By Susan Devaney

Rosalyn Rosenfeld’s dysfunctional behaviour, their characters why they scooped awards.

raising finance for feature films and pre-selling films, in most

This lack of equality is further exploited in the roles offered

cases, a woman attached to a film has less value than a man,’

to the women of Hollywood and it is forty that appears to

says Rose Wicksteed, a London-based casting director – who’s

be the magic number. It’s of no secret that the roles offered

worked on films from Martin Scorsese’s Hugo, Christopher

to women once they hit that age are significantly reduced.

Nolan’s Inception to BAFTA award-winning short film Room

‘When I was forty, I was offered three witch [roles]. I was not

8 – and who has already witnessed this issue first-hand.

offered any female adventurers or love interests or heroes or

When women are placed at a lesser value than men to begin

demons,’ actress Meryl Streep told People magazine at the US

with, the rest of the people and process involved within a

premiere for Disney’s Into The Woods. ‘I was offered witches

production (and the entire start-to-end process) will surely

because I was ‘old’ at forty,’ she concluded. Taking on the

have a knock-on effect?

role of The Witch in Disney’s adaptation of the 1986 stage

To begin with there’s a gender pay gap. If an actress doesn’t

hit by Stephen Sondheim and James Lapine, Streep felt at

hold as much weight as her male co-star then her own personal

the age of sixty-five she was now appropriately cast. ‘I would

finance will instantly diminish. This was confirmed by the Sony

say our culture is pretty youth-obsessed…especially people

leaked email scandal of 2014. Outlined in a series of emails

that pass forty,’ she concluded. Wicksteed consciously goes

between Sony and agents, intimate details of the pay difference

about to change this lack of diversity. ‘When I start working

between co-stars of Hollywood blockbuster American Hustle

on a project, if I see an opportunity to open up the casting

were shown. With an estimated production budget of $40

… and if this works creatively within the material then I will

million, male leads Bradley Cooper and Christian Bale received

always suggest it,’ she says. ‘I’m always very keen to look

9 percent of the film’s profits whereas female co-stars Amy

for equality not only in gender but also in race and open up

Adams and Jennifer Lawrence received a mere 7 percent

the casting of roles where this can work. I see it as part of

(Lawrence was originally set at just 5). It was announced on

my role as a casting director to bring this influence to the

the 13th February 2014 that the Sony Picture’s production had

project. Actually I have just done this in a film where I’m

surpassed $200 million worldwide box office earnings and one

casting a female policeman where it was originally written

only has to do the math to note the considerable difference

for a male character.’

in individual earnings. Box office takings are paramount but

It would appear that Hollywood’s leading males aren’t stepping

so too are award recognitions. With Adams and Lawrence

in to help. Speaking to an Australian magazine, Oscar-winning

leading the way for awards won – both picking up Golden

actor Russell Crow said: ‘The best thing about the industry I’m

Globes, and Lawrence a BAFTA too – their male co-stars

in – movies – is that there are roles for people in all different

were left in the dust. It’s both ironic and unjustifiable. Further

stages of life,’ he said. Acknowledging actresses’ complaints

to this, a leaked spreadsheet from consultancy firm Deloitte

about the lack of film roles offered to women over forty, ‘I think

in 2005 showed that 85 out of the top 100 earners at Sony

you’ll find that the woman who is saying that [roles have dried

Pictures were men.

up] is the woman who at 40, 45, 48, still wants to play the

Adams and Lawrence should be grateful they were given

ingénue, and can’t understand why she’s not being cast as

lead roles to begin with. ‘I’ve been fortunate recently to have

the 21-year-old,’ he said. A recent study carried out by the

worked on a couple of films with leading female roles - this

Center for the Study of Women in Television and Film at San

1. Photographed by Stuart C. Wilson/Stringer, Getty Images. 2. Photographed by Armando Gallo, Corbis. 3. Photographed by Dennis Van Tine/Geisler-Fotopres, Corbis.

were certainly more than one-dimensional. And maybe, that’s ‘I have been told several times that in terms of the process of

4. Photographed by Armando Gallo, Corbis. 5. Photographed by Armando Gallo, Corbis. 6. Photographed by Armando Gallo, Corbis.

1. Photographed by Rune Hellestad, Corbis. 2. Photographed by Rune Hellestad, Corbis. 3. Photographed by Stuart C. Wilson/Stringer, Getty Images.

When actress Renee Zellweger graced the red carpet in October 2014 for the Elle Women Awards in Hollywood, the Internet went into overdrive from speculation about her changed facial

If men don’t have to change their physical appearance after they’ve turned forty, why does society dictate that women must?

appearance. The 45-year-old actress who’s famous from her roles in Bridget Jones’ Diary and Cold Mountain, said in a statement to People magazine: ‘I’m glad folks think I look different. I’m living a different, happy, more fulfilling life and I’m thrilled that perhaps it shows.’ Referring to the speculation as ‘silly’, she said: ‘my friends say I look peaceful. I am healthy. For a long time I wasn’t doing such a good job with that… People don’t know me in my forties. People didn’t know me

4. Photographed by Armando Gallo, Corbis. 5. Photographed by Armando Gallo, Corbis. 6. Photographed by Armando Gallo, Corbis.

as [healthy] for a while. Perhaps I look different. Who doesn’t, Diego State University concluded that women comprised 12

as they get older? But I am different. I’m happy.’ One cannot

percent of protagonists in the top-earning films of 2014. In

ignore the correlation between Zellweger’s supposedly opting

secondary roles, women were playing 29 percent of all major

for plastic surgery this year to her last partly successful film

characters, and were given 30 percent of speaking roles.

My Own Love Song back in 2010. Now, she has two movies

Furthermore, the majority of roles offered were for women in

scheduled for release this year, The Whole Truth and Same Kind

their twenties (23 percent) and thirties (30 percent). Men over

Of Different As Me. You only have to Google ‘plastic surgery’

forty accounted for 53 percent of characters and women that

and ‘Hollywood’ to be met with an abundance of female-

age represented 30 percent.

focused results. If men don’t have to change their physical

Hollywood’s equal pay disparity was further highlighted when

appearance after they’ve turned forty, why does society dictate

actress Patricia Arquette used her Oscar speech in February

that women must? ‘[Again] this echoes the innate issues within

to condemn the issue. Cheers and gestures of encouragement

our society and the mass media of women’s value relating

from Meryl Streep and singer Jennifer Lopez went viral as

primarily to their beauty and sex appeal’, reflects Wicksteed.

they led the sound of applause. Focusing on Hollywood (but

But TV is starting to bring about change. Maybe it’s because

encouraging equal pay across all sectors of society) Arquette

reality is portrayed there. From Professor Annalise Keating in

didn’t shy away from the issue at hand. ‘To every woman who

How To Get Away With Murder (played by Viola Davis) to Nessa

gave birth, to every taxpayer and citizen of this nation, we

Stein in The Honourable Woman (led by Maggie Gyllenhaal),

have fought for everybody else’s equal rights. It’s time to have

female heroines (who are just as complex as they are intelligent)

wage equality once and for all. And equal rights for women

are lighting up our television screens on a weekly basis. At the

in the United States of America,’ she said.

66th Emmy Awards in August last year, it was women over

And she’s right. The Journal Management Inquiry reported

forty who were the biggest winners. From forty-eight-year-old

last year that female actresses usually witnessed a fall in pay

Julianna Margulies winning lead actress for her character in

after the age of 34. But their male counterparts’ pay peaked

the Good Wife to fifty-four-year-old Julia Louis-Dreyfus picking

at the age of 51 and remained stable. US Labor Department

up the same for her role in HBO’s Veep. These characters are

data showed women in the arts, entertainment, sports and

a true representation of us, women. ‘I think television is really

media industry during 2014 earned 85 percent of their male

leading the way in providing more strong roles for women:

counterparts’ pay. Women working full time across all sectors

especially in Europe with Scandinavian dramas like Borgen,

earned on average 82.5 percent less than men.

The Bridge, The Killing and the UK’s Last Tango in Halifax

Beauty and sex appeal also come into play. At the end of last

and Happy Valley. All of these featured women over forty who

year Julia Roberts, one of Hollywood’s most loved actresses

were fully realised complex characters and not just there as

spoke honestly of her decision not to have cosmetic surgery.

counterparts to the male characters’, Wicksteed reflected.

During an interview about her ambassador role for beauty

Not playing a counterpart to their male character is proving to

brand Lancôme, she said: ‘By Hollywood standards, I guess

be successful, in TV.

I’ve already taken a big risk in not having a facelift but I’ve told

Can the success of female-lead roles in television be mirrored

Lancôme that I want to be an ageing model – so they have to

on the screens of Hollywood too? ‘The film industry is very male

keep me for at least five more years until I’m over fifty.’ Working

dominated. It is relatively new compared with other industries

within an industry so heavily focused on youth and beauty,

and it was born in a patriarchal age. So it will take time for

Roberts’ comments come as no surprise. As actresses feel

the balance to shift…but I think that this one thing reflects the

pressure to turn to cosmetic surgery to stay appealing (and

other and when society continues to object to how women

in work), Roberts’ decision not to go under the knife is going

are being represented in the mass media, then hopefully the

against the majority. This is something Meryl Streep too has

film industry will follow suit,’ concludes Wicksteed. The issue

noticed: ‘once women passed childbearing age they could

of ageism is just one aspect of the cyclical problem that’s

only be seen as grotesque on some level,’ she told Vogue in

rife in Hollywood. From a lack of representation of women

January 2012. At forty women are past childbearing age and

of all ages, a blatant gender pay gap to a youth-obsessed

therefore no longer attractive?

industry, Hollywood has a lot of questions that need answering.

T h e S ty l e E d it

Playing

Blues

The

Summer blue is a breath of fresh air â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a gentle breeze that complements the heady notes of the primary colours that permeated SS15. From azure tones to shades of cloud-free sky, our edit takes the hue from tailored jackets through to carefree bohemian maxi-dresses. Come play the blues.

Photographed by AMAR DAVED Styled by NATALIE TREVIS

Evoking an eighteenth century court coat, Raf Simonsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; floral-sprigged jacket is enough to bring romance to the most easy-going of separates. Prepare to

CHRISTIAN DIOR

anoint your inner royal.

Top and trousers, DEREK LAM 10 CROSBY at BOUTIQUE 1| Fur, FENDI

Head to toe print isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t only for those who dare. Counteract the impact in uncomplicated loose separates and pile on the luxe with a cropped fur jacket.

Sky blue and baby pink combine in a way that is anything but syrupy. Offset bonbon colours with the balancing non-conformity of a straight

Dress and skirt, SUNO at NET-A-PORTER.COM | Shoes, CHRISTIAN DIOR

silhouette, high neck and midi-length skirt.

Top and Shorts, OSCAR DE LA RENTA | Cuff, CHANEL

Easy breezy sky blue mixes with the seasonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s oversized gingham to evoke a relaxed summer look that speaks of beachside retreats and lingering sunsets. Pair with brogues to convert this look into a city break essential.

Navy is the veritable godfather of blues and is reimagined in this playful silk top that makes a day to night transition simply effortless. Yin and yang, the loose silhouette of the top is balanced by structured wide leg culottes that offer tailoring

Top and culottes, FENDI | Shoes, CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN

with an unexpected twist.

44 Peekaboo blue makes a subtle impact when paired with ice white and emphasised by tonal accessories. Ladylike embossed detailing on a softly hued skirt

Top, VERSACE | Skirt, ERDEM at BOUTIQUE 1 | Bag, GUCCI

is strengthened with sleek separates.

Dress, LANVIN | Sapphire necklace, THE O JEWELLERY

See the deep blue ocean and feel the sand between your toes in ethereal tiered silk by Alber Elbaz.

Midnight blue awaits evening decadence in the form of a fishtail taffeta skirt. But classic neednâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t mean expected â&#x20AC;&#x201C; place a modern marker in the look with a cropped knit that

Model: Olga Verdish at Wilhelmina Models Dubai Hair stylist: Davide Losi at Y-12 Salon Make-up artist: Hannah Lisa Ostrowicz

Top, EMILIO PUCCI | Skirt and earrings, OSCAR DE LA RENTA

shows the merest sliver of skin.

b e a u ty N ote

Loose, elegant buns at Carmen Marc Valvo for spring summer 15

Effortlessly Undone

The chicest hairstyle is usually the one that appears the most effortless, when trailing tendrils frame the face and the impression is given that it may tumble loose at any moment. Carmen Marc Valvo sees the appeal in an undone style, with an easy to recreate sideswept bun that flatters, while instantly relaxing even the most formal of evening-wear.

The house of Chanel’s iconic creator, Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel, has long been an inspiration for the brand and its creative director Karl Lagerfeld. For the latest Rouge Coco line, Chanel’s nearest and dearest have been welcomed into the fold. With the beige and brown shades representing the designer’s family; her friends are represented by pink and her ‘artist’ acquaintances by plum; oranges symbolise her muses; whilst Coco’s tumultuous love life is epitomised with striking shades of red. Lipstick lovers are spoilt for choice when it comes to the colour to wear for the season so why not indulge in them all and sport a different look for every day of the week; every one has a different story to tell.

All Chanel, Rouge Coco

acc es s o ry N ot e

All that

Glitters is Gold

Charm necklace by Oscar De La Renta

strands of seaside-inspired charms by the master of elegance, Oscar De La Renta. While weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve been struck by the midas touch with this striking bohemian sensation, there are other ways to work the precious metal. Choose graphic lines with a simple reverse choker for a solid hit of the gold stuff or turn to oversized disc earrings to make twice the impact. Gold is the warmest colour when it comes to jewellery this summer.

Photography by Amar Daved.

Nothing complements sun-kissed skin quite like layers of gold piled onto

Photographed by Pieter Henket

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S t yl e N ote

Opposites

GIVENCHY

Attract

Leather and lace, tweed and sheer, feather and suede: fashion thrives on contrasts and never more so than when such contrasts are united in a single look. Conflicting textures are set to remain an eternal fashion fixture.

Fashion pays no heed to traditional

‘It’s about reinventing the classics,’

boundaries, above all else letting creativity

Nicholas Ghesquiere said of the spring/

soar and individuality reign. This is never

summer season. And reinvent them he

more apparent than when it comes to

certainly does. Strips of paper-thin eel skin

inventively combining textures in a way

are stitched together diagonally to mesh

that befits today’s woman. A woman for

with panels of high-tech knit in a feat of

whom fashion rules no longer exist, whose

daring construction that offers a tactile

wardrobe needs are season-less and who

pairing of shine, smoothness and density.

might just as easily wear a gown to lunch as

Innovative fabric technology such as fish

tailored shorts to dinner. A mixture of career

skin is becoming increasingly important

woman and mother, thinker and lover, these

to the high fashion market, not only for its

clashing fabrics, hard and soft combined,

fresh appeal but also its economy and ‘eco

represent her many roles and chime with the

exotic’ connotations. An added factor in the

prevailing ‘have it all’ ethos.

search for novel fabrics is that although the

Lace studded with grommets and panelled

global leather market was worth a staggering

with leather: gladiator style, made an

£25bn in 2014, and will reach £32bn by 2020

impressively couture-like march down the

according to the International Council of

runway at Givenchy for spring/summer

Tanners, the cost of leather is rising steeply,

15. The softly taupe lace wafted prettily at

up 30 per cent in 2014. Other pioneering

the hem yet was given more than a little

fabric developments that could see growth

punch by warrior-like leather plating - a

include synthetic spider silk and even Piñatex

modern day Praetorian battle look further

made from pineapple leaf fibres. Texture play

emboldened by second-skin thigh high

is set to reach novel heights.

boots and a double-looped studded belt.

Not known to fear excess, Roberto Cavalli

The use of lace typically conjures images

stayed true to form by refusing to dial down

of elegant evening-wear, with its peekaboo

the mix of luxury textures in a collection that

opacity and bridal connotations, and yet it

went all the way to his usual destination of

is subverted in Tisci’s hands by the addition

fantasy dressing. Moments of angelic white

of metal hardware and primal leather. The

guipure lace and the palest of chambray

combination of these conflicting textures

denim cleanse the palette for the impact

with such deftness – pretty femininity joining

of high-gloss crocodile skin, accordion-

rock and roll tough guy - amplifies the entire

pleated and merged with the sheerest of

look, its reverberations taking no prisoners.

silk tulle in a cascading tiered gown. Shine

Leather and lace have been powerful partners

plus gossamer-sheer combine reptilian

for decades. A Stevie Nicks song title as

fierceness with exposed stretches of skin

well as a bohemian fashion statement in her

that would perhaps add fragility were it not

hands, it seems natural that in the midst of

for the unabashed confidence that is the

a Seventies revival this beautifully ad hoc

logical requirement of the Cavalli woman

blend of textures should flourish once more.

- this tried-and-tested feminine silhouette

ROBERTO CAVALLI

ALTUZARRA

ARMANI PRIVÉ

is thoroughly reinvigorated. Like a prom queen sweetheart evolving into an outré jet-setter, the simple halter dress is transformed simply by virtue of the fabrics in which it is executed. Other designers have followed suit - the Rodarte sisters and Hedi Slimane at Saint Laurent are texture experts - showing little minimalism or restraint in fabrication, instead favouring a celebration of ideas, eras and textures in which more is most definitely more. Driven by a desire ever present in fashion to run against the herd (in this case a social climate in which austerity looms large), designers are turning towards craft-inspired, labour intensive techniques that do not pander to the throwaway digital generation and which are appreciated by a discerning customer. ‘I liked the idea of elevating things that go slow and take time,’ said Christopher Bailey backstage at his Burberry Prorsum autumn/winter 15 show. Miuccia Prada returned to glory with dissident pastels comprised of woven and printed tweed and neoprene-like doublefaced jersey that lent a hyper-real high definition clarity to chartreuse suits and fur-trimmed tulip dresses. A veritable scifi Stepford Wives club. Similarly, Mary

GABRIELE COLANGELO

ROBERTO CAVALLI

Katrantzou said goodbye once and for all to trompe l’oeil, eschewing digital prints for hyper-embellishment. Following the Victorian artistic practice of ‘horror vacui’ or meticulously filling the entire surface of a space or artwork with detail, she raided everyday symbolism from road signs to flags to cram every inch of a garment. Molded plastic materials fit for a mechanical plant gelled with brocades, damask, glass filaments, rubber and more. The effect is a beautifully diverse representation of our modern day version of Victorian extravagance and, on some level, conscious vulgarity and as such appeals to a woman confident that her personal style can withstand a healthy dose of eclecticism. As technical advancements pick up pace the only textural limits now are those of a designer’s imagination. In this brave new world of free flowing texture recipes and clothes that must function all year round, the multi-tasking, globe trotting modern woman doesn’t have to choose between strong confidence and soft femininity, summer or winter, plastic or fur, jacquard or pvc; it is all there for the taking in a single deluxe alliance.

M OJEH H i g h l ig h t s

The Right

Touc h Effortless, vibrant and impassioned â&#x20AC;&#x201C; high jewellery this spring

yearns to be worn with an air of nonchalance and self-possession and whether styled with ready-to-wear or couture, David Morris jewels trust in a womanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s intuition to bring them to life.

Angel skin coral wildflower garland necklace with full cut and rose cut diamonds set in 18ct white gold, DAVID MORRIS

Angel skin coral wildflower earrings with pear shape diamonds set in 18ct white gold, DAVID MORRIS

Set in white gold with rose and pear cut diamonds, the Angel Skin coral wildflower set echoes our sugary soft nuances while the coral beads sing to the innately flexible and uninhibited tune of modern life.

56 The Madagascan and Burma sapphires represent a deep and complex nature while the movement of the flexible white diamond bangle relies on an active and liberal lifestyle to capture its animation.

Madagascan and Burma sapphire flexi bangle with a white diamond micro-set surround set in 18ct white gold, DAVID MORRIS

Tough, dynamic and multi-faceted. The round, pear and princess cut diamonds set on top of fragmented and detachable white gold are placed together to boundless and immeasurable effect, ready to amplify and extend when the occasion calls.

Round pear and princess cut diamond cluster ring in 18ct white gold, DAVID MORRIS | Round white diamond cluster earrings with fancy cut white diamond detachable surrounds set in 18ct white gold, DAVID MORRIS

The wild nature of the briolette carnival necklace gently collides with the free and boundless spirit of summer. The exceptional Paraiba tourmaline captures the infinite possibility found in a crystal clear sky while white diamonds and round Paraibas are a nod towards innocence.

Exceptional ParaĂba tourmaline briolette carnival necklace with white diamond briolettes, beads and round tourmalines, DAVID MORRIS

Chloe Fox / London Evening Standard / The Interview People

60 S o c i ety B elles

Bursting

The

Heart

Evenings in the Arnault apartment — the same, overlooking Les Invalides and the Eiffel Tower, in which he spent his

Supermodel and philanthropist

bachelor days — are ‘pretty boring. We spend time with

Natalie Vodianova is setting high

The naturally antisocial couple, whose first date was spent

standards for the industry and beyond. We meet with the Russian beauty.

the kids, do homework, watch movies, usual family stuff.’ chatting on a bench in the park, have, however, recently faced up to a serious problem. ‘We are crazily addicted to Dulce de Leche Häagen-Dazs,’ Vodianova sighs. ‘It’s become a real problem. We’ve decided that we’re going to have to go cold turkey.’ There is, admits the woman whose only concession to fitness is ‘a bit of Pilates here and there,’ a side to her that still revels in the indulgences that were entirely lacking

Image courtesy of Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images Entertainment

in her childhood. ‘An old soul’, according to her friend Last month, Russian supermodel Natalia Vodianova, 32,

and mentor Diane von Furstenberg, Vodianova has lived

ran her sixth Paris half-marathon in aid of her children’s

more lives than most of us could even begin to imagine.

charity, the Naked Heart Foundation. As with every year,

Born in the industrial Soviet town of Nizhny Novgorod

she undertook this 13-mile ‘torture’ having done absolutely

(formerly Gorky) in 1982, Natasha’s (as she’s known

no training. ‘I really hate running,’ she laughed before the

to friends and family) father left home when she was a

race. But then the laughter freezes on her exquisite face.

toddler. Her mother Larisa eventually remarried, but this

‘Oh, I’m really dreading it. Two years ago, my toenail came

marriage also floundered with the birth of Natalia’s half-

off totally, which wasn’t so good later that day when I

sister Oksana, who was born with cerebral palsy and

closed the Givenchy show. It’s horrible. Just horrible.’

went on to develop severe autism. Against the advice of

Half-marathon in the morning; catwalk in the afternoon.

her parents and doctors, Larisa refused to institutionalise

There’s nothing of the diva in Vodianova. She’s a stalwart

her child (fair game in a Soviet Union that didn’t tolerate

— a Russian doll with a core of steel — whose rags to

otherness); the only person who stood by her decision

riches story is nothing short of extraordinary. ‘I guess you

was her older child. ‘I knew she was doing it for us and I

could say I’m determined,’ she admits with a Slavic shrug.

wanted to help her so much,’ explains Vodianova.

‘I know what I want and I’m fearless about getting it.’

And help the wilful seven-year-old did. Sharing the load of

Vodianova’s is a mesmerising beauty, part-innocent, part-

raising Oksana, Vodianova would often arrive at school —

sophisticate, that has kept her at fashion’s helm for 15

if she arrived at all — so tired she could barely focus. By

years, and earned her an estimated £4m a year. Having

the time she was 11, she was working on her mother’s

garnered headlines for hitting the catwalk just two weeks

unlicensed fruit stall outside the Volga car factory. When

after the birth of her first child at 19, Tom Ford cast her

she was 16, a fractious relationship with her mother’s

as the star of his 2002 Gucci campaign. From there, she

new boyfriend forced Vodianova to move out and set

went on to become the face of Calvin Klein and has since

up her own fruit-selling venture. Business went well, but

fronted campaigns for Louis Vuitton, Chanel and Stella

not so well that a $50 modelling gig in a local fashion

McCartney among others.

show — enabled by her then boyfriend, who had paid

Not stopping there, the 32-year-old has given birth to four

the fees for her to attend a local modelling school —

children. Lucas, 13, Neva, eight, and Viktor, seven, by her

didn’t turn her head.

ex-husband, the English property scion Justin Portman,

At the insistence of her maternal grandmother, ‘a real

were all born before she was 25. The youngest, Maxim,

force’ in her life, who encouraged her to study and better

by her current partner, LVMH heir Antoine Arnault, 37,

herself, the 17-year-old Vodianova headed to Paris,

arrived last May, when she was a positively ancient 31.

petrified and alone, to seek her fortune.

In the son of the richest man in France (his father Bernard’s

‘I don’t feel any different today than I did the first time I

luxury fashion empire is worth an estimated £40bn),

arrived in Paris,’ says Vodianova. ‘I still work on the same

Vodianova says she has found her ‘soul mate’. He is

principle, that in my life — in everything I do — there

CEO of menswear label Berluti, and a world-class poker

is nothing to lose.’ Would she change that early life in

player to boot. They live a low-key — albeit fabulously

which she struggled so much? ‘No, of course not,’ she

luxurious — life. ‘Of course we are spoilt in terms of the

says, in her constrained way. ‘Because my childhood

comfortable life that we lead,’ acknowledges Vodianova,

gave me some very important tools. I’m a fighter, you

‘but we are both hard workers. He is an inspirational man

see. I used to fight for my survival but now I fight for a

for me in that way. I’m often at home, working from my

good cause. I am sure that I wouldn’t be able to handle

BlackBerry but being with my baby, too. But he is at his

so much, stay so positive, or have this fearlessness, if

desk, without fail, every day.’

I hadn’t lived the life that I have.’

The photographer Bruce Weber wasn’t wrong when he described Vodianova as being ‘like a woman in a Chekhov play’. In person, she has a resilience and a depth that are very affecting. Straight-backed and poised, she moves almost in slow motion, thoughtfully searching the air for exactly the right words with which to answer a question. ‘Modelling work is not so — how do you say it? — not

Precisely because she is never far from the demons that haunt her, Vodianova is mindful of how gilded her life is now.

so cerebral,’ she smirks. Up go those trademark tapered brows. ‘Really, really not.’ At the height of her success in 2004, she found herself feeling dissatisfied (‘my existence did not make sense to me’) and then Chechen rebels attacked a school in the Russian town of Beslan. Three hundred and thirty-four people were killed, 186 of them

Images courtesy of Stephane Cardinale/People Avenue/Corbis

children. On a flight to Paris from Moscow, where she had been when the tragedy struck, Vodianova could not stop

It was Kloss, in fact, who gave Vodianova the idea for

crying. How, she wondered, could she help the survivors

the event. ‘We were at a gallery opening together and

to heal? ‘I thought about what was missing from my own

everyone was going crazy,’ says Vodianova. ‘We had to

childhood and it was that I had no play,’ she has said. And

do so many selfies! At the end, Karlie, who is a girl with

so, the Naked Heart Foundation was born, its mission a

a real sense of purpose, said, ‘You should charge people

simple one: to raise enough money to build full-scale play

and give all the money to the Naked Heart Foundation!’

parks and playgrounds across Russia.

That made me think about what a fun idea it would be to

To date, the Naked Heart Foundation has raised over

have a social media-orientated event, where people are

£22m and financed the building of 133 play facilities in

paying for an experience.’

Russia and three in the UK. Four years ago, it developed

While she was ‘super-excited’ about the fair (not

another string to its bow: providing support services for

least because her eldest son got to see his favourite

Russian families raising children with special needs. ‘It’s

magician, Dynamo, live) Vodianova also feels pressured.

hard for Westerners to comprehend, but in Russia there

‘Before, when we were only building play parks, we

is very little understanding of the benefits of an inclusive

were building what we could afford. Now we have a

society,’ Vodianova explains.

different responsibility: families we look after all year

‘Do I feel like we’re getting somewhere? Yes, a little bit.

long are relying on us to fund them. No money; no

People like my sister are treated like human beings in the

services. It’s very stressful.’

Family Support Centres we have set up. Plus, we have

It’s for this reason that Vodianova continues to do

our own educational programme, which is really showing

modelling, such as Stella McCartney campaigns — ‘I

incredible results with very autistic children, who would

try to make up financially for anything the Naked Heart

once have been considered hopeless cases, starting to

Foundation can’t’ — although she also admits to more

read and count — but we still have a very long way to go.’

complex reasons for wanting to earn her own money.

While the Naked Heart Foundation’s annual Love Ball

‘If you’ve been very, very poor, as I have, it makes you

fundraiser has become a coveted invitation on the

very proud. You experience such moments of hardship,

international social circuit, Vodianova and her 14-strong

that make you feel so ashamed, that all you want is to

team are under constant pressure to generate income.

get yourself to a place where you don’t have to ask

Late in February, during London Fashion Week, they

anything of anyone.’

hosted The World’s First Fabulous Fund Fair, for which

Precisely because she is never far from the demons that

the Camden Roundhouse was transformed into a custom-

haunt her, Vodianova is mindful of how gilded her life

built fairground, with ‘stalls’ hosted by celebrities and

is now. The birth of Maxim seems to have ushered in a

sponsored by luxury brands, in exchange for donations.

phase of particular contentment. ‘Motherhood feels very

Highlights of the £1,000-a-ticket event included

different this time because I’m so much calmer,’ she says.

the Guerlain Supermodel Kissing Booth, hosted by

‘It’s not that I’m doing anything different, I’m just more

Vodianova herself; face-painting by legendary make-up

present in what I’m doing. There’s not so much noise

artist Pat McGrath; Fashion Fortune Telling with Suzy

in my head.’ You’re happy, we suggest. ‘Yes,’ she says

Menkes; a Louis Vuitton Hook-a-Bag; and milliner

hesitantly. ‘Yes, I suppose I am.’ But then she looks up

Steven Jones’ Coconut Shy. Food stalls were manned

and with that fighter’s flame in her wide-set eyes. ‘I will

by fashion designers such as Stella McCartney —

never feel like a good enough mother, though. I will never

serving veggie hot dogs — and supermodel Karlie

feel like a good enough anything, because the minute

Kloss, Vodianova’s great friend and co-host, sold her

you do, that’s when you go wrong. Complacent is the

own brand of gluten-free Kookies.

worst thing that anyone can ever be.’

Image courtesy of Imaxtree.

64 F a sh i o n F eatur e

Milan street style

Laws of Attraction Fashion is taking a feminine turn. Understated, elegant and with a dose of tomboyish charm, the look of 2015 captures a liberated mood in which sexiness can manifest in any form. By Natalie Trevis

Altuzarra opened with a pink gingham skirt

to invest wisely, it’s becoming increasingly

suit for spring/summer 15 and, for just a

easy to turn away from the trash-fash of

moment, its pretty pearl-dotted belt and

fleeting ‘ironic’ trends and leave the likes of

covered buttons primly harked back to an era

SpongeBob to limelight hungry celebrities.

gone by. A time when etiquette governed the

A more effortless style of dressing feels

way women dressed and formality ruled. Yet

right and can be infinitely more attractive.

on closer inspection, it’s clear that Joseph

‘I think when you are subtle you are more

Altuzarra isn’t offering us a strait-laced

approachable,’ says handbag designer

throwback at all. The centre split in the skirt

Amanda Navai, whose designs embody

reveals itself to be dangerously high and the

a beguiling minimalism that always turns

sweet pastel jacket plunges into a deep v;

the focus towards the luxury materials of

both are heightened by severely slicked-back

their construction. ‘I think people find that

hair and attention grabbing earrings. This

appealing, as it comes across as less full

is precisely the dichotomy that fashion is

on than someone who is trying so hard to

currently celebrating. Clothes that are sexy

look good,’ she tells us. ‘People love people

but subtly so, concealing yet not prudish.

that look effortless.’ Massimiliano Giovanetti

With the rise of the normcore revolution,

at Salvatore Ferragamo encapsulated the

a style of carefree dressing (but secretly

mood perfectly with his muted autumn/winter

carefully curated) that used to be the reserve

collection of colour-blocked day dresses,

of fashion editors has become mainstream,

pleated midi skirts and perky ribbed-knit

permeating all walks of life and in its way

ponchos. There was little skin on show and

offering an unparalleled freedom to redefine

yet the insightful inclusion of unpredictable

femininity. Boyfriend sized sweaters, chunky

sheer chiffon paneling in skirts, turtle-necked

knits with too-long sleeves and masculine

dresses constructed entirely in leather and

leather jackets provide an androgynous

barely-there straps on patchwork-effect

backdrop to a silk shirt unbuttoned almost

dresses added zing and turned this into

all the way, or a clinging pencil skirt that fits in

a collection of modern functional classics

all the right places. An interplay of masculine

that was anything but traditional. Real,

tailoring and flashes of unexpected skin has

desirable clothes for real, desirable women.

become more alluring than simply baring it

With the right proportions and a little bit of

all. ‘I think generally every girl wants to feel

flair, covered up can be just as provocative

sexy, but that can mean ladylike and alluring

as unbuttoned down to there. Madiyah Al

without being overtly brazen,’ says New

Sharqi knows a thing or two about timeless

York-based stylist and contributing editor

modern elegance. Playing with lavish

at GQ, Brian Coats.

textures and sophisticated silhouettes, the

As a raft of designers turn their attention

UAE designer consistently creates clothes

towards creating luxuriously wearable

that have a modern day fairytale appeal that

clothing that has relevance and longevity

escapes cliché. ‘All my collections from the

in a social climate in which we are taught

beginning have been very ladylike as I like

66 Anja Rubik

Whether it is touches of androgyny or fullon femininity that appeals; ask a woman for whom she dresses and it is the rare exception that will name a man. Part of the appeal of any understatedly alluring ensemble is that it is an individual expression that deliberately disregards the approval of the opposite sex. Of course, it is this very indifference that makes it all the more attractive. ‘There is nothing sexier to a man than a smart woman who has something a bit unattainable,’ says Brian Coats. ‘The chase is the thing. And a chic woman who isn’t revealing everything immediately is something to savour.’ Reverse psychology aside, whole fashion movements have built up around dressing for oneself, be it The Man Repeller Leandra Medine’s philosophy of subversive, unfiltered self-expression (the tag line of her book of fashion essays, ‘Seeking Love. Finding Overalls’, just about sums it up) or street style hero and MOJEH favourite Elisa Nalin’s colourful version of quirky, buttoned-up chic. Acne Studios taps into this achingly cool and deliberately non-conformist agenda season after season, showing us a new, intelligent interpretation of sexy that never subjugates its wearer. It is only in forward-thinking hands like Jonny Johansson’s that a utilitarian jacket that opens to the navel and an equally plummeting neckline on an a-line mini dress can look more fashionably geek-chic than spring break. It’s all in the cut (where necklines plunge, silhouettes don’t cling), the styling (professorial neckties and brogues) and the attitude. ‘I think we’re even shifting away from having to impress other women,’ notes Madiyah. ‘Women have become more daring in their style and like to experiment, be different and make a women will always dress for themselves and nobody else.’ While there is an undoubted move towards

to play with feminine colours and fabrics

a ‘less is more’, minimalistic approach to

such as embroidered lace and crepes,’ she

dressing, there will always be those who buck

explains. ‘It has become my signature and

the trend. Indeed certain labels have built

is something that is very appealing to my

entire empires around the concept of ‘more’.

clientele, so it’s therefore important for me to

More logos, more sequins, more skin. It’s just

maintain such a design ethos. I think feminine

part of their DNA. From Versace to Tom Ford

pieces are timeless, which is what many

to Balmain to Anthony Vaccarello, there are

women seek. Pieces that can be worn over

a legion of designers who seek to dress a

and over again for many years to come.’

woman who will proudly claim her place as

Madiyah is giving women the clothes they are

a bombshell, no apologies made. And nor

asking for. Her fashion literate fans know that

should there be. Women might no longer be

a lace trimmed jacket in the softest blush can

dressing for men, but that does not mean

be happily paired with distressed jeans and

that the occasional foray into overt glamour

Saint Laurent biker boots for a look that is

is not an empowering personal choice. In

playfully experimental, or equally with head to

a world of unlimited fashion decisions, this

toe pastels; all the while hinting at a feminine

version of ourselves has to be allowed to be

charm rather than charging headlong into it.

one of them. ‘I think there is always space for

Anja Rubik photographed by Andrew H. Walker/Getty Images. Street style images courtesy of Imaxtree.

statement. Powerful, strong and confident

Daring tailoring on the New York streets

Knee high boots in Paris

Paris street style

that!’, says the eternally chic Amanda Navai about the femme fatale version of desirability proposed by the likes of Tom Ford and Donatella Versace. ‘I mean personally I love those two brands. I can’t always wear them as sometimes their styles are too sexy and you have to have a perfect body, but there will always be a woman that can and who wants to shine and make a statement. I say shine away! In my opinion every woman should go through a period of Versace. It’s good for the soul. If you wear Versace it says something about you. I think when you decide to pull that Versace dress out of the closet you are feeling very good about yourself.’ As a number of promising young designers seek to introduce powerhouse glamour to

Photography by JP Yim/Getty Images.

Anthony Vaccarelloâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s debut collection for Versus Versace, spring/summer 2015

70 Christophe Lemaire

Peekaboo tailoring in Milan

Mugler

the millennial generation, daring new zones of exposure are introduced that move away from the jaded tropes of the tight short skirt and cleavage baring outfits of fashion years gone by. Anthony Vaccarelloâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s signature asymmetric skirts and sheer paneling offer that remains urbanely luxurious. Fashion moments abound at the Costume Institute Gala each year but there are few who could forget supermodel Anja Rubikâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s arrival in 2012 in a daring cowl-necked silk Vaccarello gown (in virginal white, what else?) complete with side slit, that continued up past her thighbone and which heralded a languidly sophisticated style of evening-wear that provided shock factor without a hint of

Images courtesy of Gorunway and Imaxtree.

an edgily skewed balance of peekaboo skin

tackiness. Following up the next year in a

Acne Studios

Blondie-style plunging red leather mini dress with upturned collar that screamed mogul model, the leggy beauty bears testament to the value of Vaccarello’s winning formula of editorial sexiness. That Vaccarello went on to become a permanent fixture at Versus (the sister line of Versace) came as little surprise. It is a match made in women-worshipping Versace heaven. Likewise, Olivier Rousteing (never knowingly pictured without a bevy of beautiful young women surrounding him), offered sharp-shouldered jackets, latticework dresses and colour-pop halter tops for spring that reveal glimpses of torsos or legs in a way that nods to a woman perfectly in control. Others are determined to show subtlety the door. Riccardo Tisci uses his work as a vehicle for wider social commentary (featuring transgender model Lea T and performance artist Marina Abramovic in previous advertising campaigns) and for spring/summer took Givenchy’s dark vision of gothic romance to Joan of Arc-inspired sensual extremes in the form of laced corsets, studded leather panelling and sheer just about everything. A heady departure from his first ready to wear collection for the house in 2005, which featured a positively demure version of his muse Mariacarla Boscono in a sheer white ruffled blouse and pencil skirt (a collection of freshly toned and under-appreciated separates that now looks distinctly ahead of its time). The house may have transitioned through various iterations of sexual reawakening under Tisci’s guidance over the years, yet it is always bonded to an ideal of intense craftsmanship and the vision of its customer as a strong, independent force, both of which ensure that the integrity of the house is never in danger. Brian Coats has the high fashion world at his fingertips as a stylist and knows that a woman’s right to choose whether to play vixen or ingénue is in itself a liberating expression.

The streets tell a story of a woman in

‘No woman wants to be put in a box of one

control of her fashion destiny. The freedom

type or another,’ he says. ‘Sometimes a

to show unexpected flashes of skin without

woman wants to go out in a killer dress and

connotation, to cover up from head to toe

heels and watch the boys fall over when she

without compromising femininity or to hurtle

walks past them. She wants to feel sexy but

towards out and out glamour with unabashed

also powerful and smart,’ he adds. David

confidence. There’s room in our lives (and our

Koma for Mugler, Fausto Puglisi and Alexander

wardrobes) for each of these variations of

Wang for Balenciaga read and write these new

ourselves, and the runway runs the gamut from

rules of sexy-with-edge to perfection. These

subtlety to ostentation. Follow Altuzarra’s lead

novel ways to reveal without revealing trickle

and add a flash of leg to an otherwise ladylike

down from these all-or-nothing collections and

tailored ensemble or take the plunge in Acne’s

breed a new form of everyday style in which

deliberately awkward but daring necklines.

a streak of upper torso courtesy of a knitted

Whether your own take on the movement

crop top or a glimmer of shoulder from an

includes pearls and twinsets or your boyfriend’s

open-backed t-shirt is a sanctioned form of

sweater, there’s a new way to exude sexiness

sexiness without judgement.

while maintaining just enough mystery.

D e si g n er I ntervie w

Backstage at Sonia Rykiel spring/summer 2015

Meet Me

In Paris Julie de Libran is the quietly talented Frenchwoman whose appointment as creative director of Sonia Rykiel, that most Parisian of French fashion houses, has been the greatest homecoming of her career. We sit down with Julie to find

Born in Aix-en-Provence and later spending some of her childhood years in California before moving to Milan and Paris to study fashion, Julie couldn’t deny her destiny as a designer. ‘I was designing and making clothes at an early age but only at eighteen years old did I know I could go to a fashion school and learn to become one.’ And she hasn’t looked back since. Until now, a behind-the-scenes talent, not yet a household name, Julie has been an understated influencer in fashion since the Nineties, with a Parisian aesthetic emerging in luxe detailing yet simplicity of

out about the journey that has led her full circle.

form. As an admirer of Sonia Rykiel since childhood, it is fitting that she now takes the throne; there could be no one more respectful

By Natalie Trevis

of the label’s heritage. Julie acknowledged as much in the heartfelt handwritten note on every seat at the show. ‘Like many French women who were born in the 1970s, I have happy childhood memories of my mother

Julie De Libran photographed by David Bailey

Gianfranco, Miuccia, Gianni, Donatella and

wearing Sonia Rykiel…arriving here has felt

Marc. Recently appointed creative director

curiously like a homecoming.’

of Sonia Rykiel, Julie de Libran, has worked

Rather than turning away from the recognisable

with some of the greatest fashion talents of all

codes of the brand, Julie has turned towards

time. Little wonder then, that she announced

them, eschewing the temptation to offer a

her arrival at Sonia Rykiel in true style,

more complex, reimagined version of the

presenting a bohemian carnival of a show

house which might alienate its loyal following.

for spring/summer 15 in the form of a joyful

‘I decided to take stripes, that are timeless

collection that remained true to the house

and make you happy, to all levels, weaving

(the Seventies revival could not have come

in tweed, jacquards, trompe l’oeil, intarsia,

at a better time for Julie’s vision) but with an

sequins, ribbons, fringe,’ she tells us. Sonia

added injection of youth and modernity. The

Rykiel would undoubtedly approve, herself

louche jumpsuits, precise knits and sheer

once having annotated an illustration with

ruffled dresses looked like exactly the sort

the words, ‘La beauté sera toujours rayée’.

of gamine-spirited clothes that ingénues

Beauty will always be striped.

Kendall, Gigi, Edie and the Jagger sisters,

That Julie’s designs appeal to real women

who led the charge on the runway, would

is a recurring motif. She works in cashmere,

wear in real life. Loving the house as she

silk and cotton, providing tactile comfort

does, it makes sense when Julie tells us

(something that is too often sacrificed)

that her energetic debut collection ‘with all

alongside crisp design. The sky is the limit

the great models’, ranks as one of her most

for Julie de Libran in a prescient role that

precious fashion memories.

was always meant to be hers. ‘I want Sonia

Success was destined to come Julie’s way,

Rykiel to be a whole universe between the

less by luck than hard work, talent and an

Home collection, children and Sonia By. Then

unsurpassed grounding, including serving as

I would love to create a perfume,’ she

design director for Prada alongside Miuccia

notes confidently. Her description of the

and then creative and studio director for

Sonia Rykiel woman as ‘feminine, sensual

womenswear at Louis Vuitton under Marc

and individual’ is manifested throughout

Jacob’s helm. We ask Julie about a career

the collection. ‘I want them to say it’s

highlight so far. ‘Working with the best where

desirable’ she emphasises. ‘I would like

I’ve learned so much,’ she replies, ‘they were

women to find a wardrobe at Sonia Rykiel,

all very good schools.’

desirable pieces, surprises.’

Fa sh io n F eatu re

Pas de Deux

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN SS15

By Mehrnoush Shafiei

In springâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s offering, art is rendered more than a muse by the fashion world. Like an intricate dance for two, the art world is given equal footing as luxury designers draw inspiration from artists past and enter partnerships with artists present to add a dose of culture to our closets. The end result: striking colours, dramatic prints, and a little cartoon.

76 J.MENDEL SS15

Nobody wants to look like they are wearing a painting. This is the unequivocal opinion of French designer Gilles Mendel of J. Mendel, conveyed in a recent interview. Let’s face it, he is absolutely right. With the rare exception of picking up a quirky souvenir from the gift shops of the Louvre or Centre Pompidou in Paris, few people would tout the merits of iconic artwork shamelessly emblazoned on every kind of merchandise imaginable. Often taken for granted, the style faux pas of ‘wearable art’ may stem from the fact that fashion is our oldest art; any overtly liberal pairings between the two borders on the incestuous—like pairing navy with black, it just doesn’t work. Not to mention the element of fraudulence involved when a designer borrows too freely from another artist. And while the art world does offer an enviable treasure trove of inspiration for designers to capitalize on, many will tell you that it’s a tightrope to walk to avoid venturing into the gauche. The challenge, he admits, when straddling both worlds, is to ‘make everything very wearable, light, and feminine, despite the intense craftsmanship and not oppressively literal.’ Mendel proved that he got the formula right at the unveiling of his spring/ summer collection during New York fashion week. Attracting rave reviews, models marched down the runway wearing sleek frocks, cigarette pants and even fur coats that paid homage to the works of artist Enoc Perez. The seeds of their studio-atelier collaboration were planted during a chance encounter between Mendel and Perez at a dinner party held by a mutual acquaintance. They soon became fast friends with the discovery that they both share a similar artistic outlook—particularly when it comes to their use of vivid colours and appreciation of the female form. ‘I was struck by the commonality of our work—the role of texture, colour, a mutual obsession with architecture, the coexistence of strength and sensuality,’ says Mendel. Mendel collaborated directly with the Puerto Rican painter, who is wellknown on the art scene for his paintings of bold modernist architecture. The looks played off the dramatic geometric lines and architectural precision that is Perez’s distinguishing motif. Perez’s paintings are at once arresting and distinct, and by Mendel’s own admission, it was a challenge for the French tastemaker to reference Enoc’s work while at the same time making it distinctly his own and staying true to the brand. He succeeded by incorporating rich fabrics of various textures combined with the juxtaposition of dramatic colours in ways that would create the greatest impact. The intricate detailing keeps the looks on-theme but not overwhelming thanks to Mendel’s clean, minimalist and pared-down silhouettes that help set off the striking architecture-inspired patterns. Not to be outdone, over at Coach the studio-atelier collaborations continued with creative director Stuart Vevers working alongside celebrated Californian artist animator Gary Baseman. The 54-year-old Los Angeles native—who credits Warner Brothers and Walt Disney as early sources of inspiration— caught the attention of Vevers with his highly stylised animations and his popculture drawings. In an admittedly drastic departure from the house’s usual

ENOC PEREZ, Marina Towers, Chicago

design codes—typically reflective of a serious and erudite brand of luxury—this season we witness the unapologetic transformation of old-fashioned Americana to the dark side. Well, kind of. Reminding us that fashion is all about having fun, the designer-animator collaboration infused a dose of eerie playfulness to the looks, thanks to Baseman’s imaginary comic book cartoons—cute, but also slightly unsettling creatures—adorning t-shirts, shaggy coats, totes and faux fur fluffy sweaters. With a knockout debut year already under his belt, it appears the British-born Vevers has hit his professional stride at the helm of this iconic all-American fashion house. ‘So many of the things I’m referencing are exotic to me as I didn’t grow up in the U.S,’ he says. His nod to pop art—like his blindfolded bunny character on the totes—are perfect for the Coach girl. ‘The Coach girl has an effortless approach to style that’s got a certain sense of freedom. It’s got ease, it’s inviting and there is an everydayness to it.’ While some designers worked hand in hand with contemporary artists, others opted to borrow from art in more abstract ways.

COACH SS15

GARY BASEMAN, Explosion of Dream Reality

Reminding us that fashion is all about having fun, the designer-animator collaboration infused a dose of eerie playfulness to the looks

78 KENZO SS15

HENRI MATISSE, The Parakeet and the Mermaid

Kenzo debuted pieces that gave an impression of brush on canvas, while Burberry took an artful twist on their signature trenches with bold colours and painterly patterns.

ABSTRACT EXPRESSION

ELIE SAAB SS15

‘Picture with a circle’ is a brilliant painting by Russian painter Wassily Kandinsky circa 1911, widely regarded among art historians as the first real piece of pure abstract art. With its lack of objective or rational representation, this painting and other abstract works that followed relied heavy on colour and texture to provoke emotion from the viewer. Kandinsky himself was fascinated by colour symbolism and its impact on the human psyche from a very early age. For him, red represented dynamism, white was the symbol of possibilities and yellow could be either a symbol of disruption or serenity. Considering that on a similar level, the world of fashion trades off colour combinations, it is no surprise that many of the spring/summer 2015 collections hit abstract notes inspired by 20th century artistic movements, with a focus on colour, shape, brushstrokes, scale and perspective. Les Fauvres (‘the wild beasts’) were a group of early twentieth-century artists—the most notable being Matisse—who came together under the umbrella of a somewhat unmoored creative movement, dubbed Fauvism. Distinguished by daring spontaneity, vivid colours and fluid colour combinations, these works are most recognizable by their unfettered use of bold colours which outraged art purists. Interestingly enough, the moniker originated from a disparaging comment made by a prominent art critic when Matisse and his fellow contemporaries showcased their works at the 1905 Salon d’Automne. The critic deemed the works to be vulgar and crude, a shocking assault on the senses. While the movement was never anchored in any set of explicitly outlined principles and was admittedly short-lived, it proved wildly popular with the public and art collectors. By the same token, Chanel, the epitome of grace and sophistication, channeled a dose of wildness in looks from their spring/summer collection. A frenzy of eager anticipation surrounded the collection and as usual Karl Lagerfeld did not disappoint. While reminiscent of the abstractions of Matisse—hints of abstract could be found in sweeping shades of pinks and purples, a fitting nod to one of Coco Chanel’s own contemporaries—it is unmistakably Chanel. It is to Lagerfeld’s credit that he is able, time and time again to reveal collections that catapult the codes of this storied fashion house into the present. Art inflections manifested perhaps most tangibly over at Alexander McQueen where two stunning white orchid sculptures by Marc Quinn took place of pride on the runway. The British artist is best known for his edgy reflections on life’s mysterious dichotomies— domination versus submission, mind versus body, freedom versus repression. The tension between such opposing forces was precisely the themes Sarah Burton unpacked with her sensational spring/summer show where masked models were styled in fetishized glossy face coverings by Pat McGrath. The looks got hearts racing and were reminiscent of controversial Japanese photographer Nobuyoshi Araki—dubbed the ‘kink king,’ who has made his mark on the art scene with his images of bondage and eroticism. Burton also conjured up images of traditional Japanese artisanship with oriental floral satin prints which propelled the aesthetic tenor of the collection to vacillate between elements of fragility and steeliness. Stylist Jennifer Choy explains that in the politics of self-image, this kind of fashion statement telegraphs a degree of sophistication and a woman who is not afraid of being given a second glance. ‘These sorts of art-inspired clothing are a stylists’ dream, because it’s our job to use clothing and accessories to tell a story—and these pieces add another dimension of personality.’ There were unlimited choices this season with most powerhouse designers taking a bit of an art spin. Kenzo debuted pieces that gave an impression of brush on canvas, while Burberry took an artful twist on their signature trenches with bold colours and painterly patterns. There was even a nod to the tranquility of watercolours at Elie Saab with models donning romantic dresses created with a Pointillist technique (a postimpressionist school of painting in which small dots form a pattern). The effect conveyed depth and subtlety with a lightness of touch worthy of the most delicate of artists. ‘There are days when we all feel a bit uninspired. Put on one of these museum-worthy pieces and you instantly get an air of creativeness,’ Choy adds. ‘You can enhance your wardrobe with pieces that are conversation starters.’ There is a mysterious alchemy at play when fashion and art join forces, the result jolts the modern woman’s artistic imagination. After many seasons of minimalism, there is an increased appetite for pieces that stand out. Since spring is fashion’s time to hit the refresh button, there is no better time than now to indulge your arty side.

WASSILY KANDINSKY, Improvisation 26

Fa sh io n IN F O C US

Mixing denim with dark blue hues will play on spring/summer’s most prominent trend without a fabric overload. Chloé’s shirt sits beautifully in the mix with a punchy colour to keep a monotone palette from taking hold. If a glimpse of denim is all you need, slip on Louis Vuitton. These boots were made for walking.

INTO

THE BLUE

Embrace rainbow shades to start your day on a bright note. Infuse white separates to keep the balance and stop your wardrobe from tipping into kindergarten territory. If you can’t brave Saloni’s in-your-face dress, then subtly channel the look with Fabergé’s vivid gems or carry Céline’s clutch for a strip of colour.

KALEIDOSCOPE 5

7 6

82 3

Gingham made a strong statement on the catwalk, so choose your hue and fall headfirst. Whether you keep your colours in the same family or clash your checks, avoid a country feel with sculptural and structured accessories that will suit the city. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a walk in the park.

PICNIC

BLANKET 6

Tassels add texture and dimension to even the most pared back of looks. Take Alexis’ simple white skirt, which has added interest through the fabric and movement. Even earrings haven’t escaped the effect, with Solange AzaguryPartridge creating dangling versions that will ensure a statement without the fanfare.

GONE WITH

THE WIND

so c i ety b elles Ola wears Dolce & Gabbana, available at Harvey Nichols Dubai, photographed at Ethan Allen Dubai

with a few international designers and then the rest are mainly regional and Asian. But we only invest in the unique and interesting pieces that have good styling potential. What drew you towards this idea? It’s mainly because I wanted a style hub like this for myself. I love it when shopping websites style their pieces and now you can do it through cool imagery and social media, I think it’s where the future lies. My followers often ask what I’m wearing or what makeup I have on so I feel like there’s a gap in

Own It

We sit with Ola Farahat, to discuss spring style and

the market where people can hear you talk. What do you think the women around you look for today from fashion? I think the Middle East has really matured and advanced so quickly when it comes to style. Everyone is striving to be playful and unique, stepping away from their comfort zone – it’s a movement and I love watching where it’s heading.

new fashion ventures.

Do you follow regional talent? What do you look towards for your spring

almost identical sometimes. When she was

I’m starting to because some of them are

wardrobe?

my age she looked just like me and her style

amazing, there’s so much talent here and

I look towards a lot of whites, it really gets

was very similar.

it can easily compete on an international

me in the mood for the season. In terms of

level. I love Kage especially, it’s so simple

silhouette, I’m drawn towards floaty, baggy

How did your move into fashion happen?

pieces and I’ll then add a little colour such

My background is in luxury management

as light yellows, pink and pastels.

and finance and I previously worked in

Today you’re wearing Dolce & Gabbana,

Deloitte as a strategic consultant. But I

what drew you towards it?

How would you describe your own style?

wanted to branch out and have always had

Dolce & Gabbana clothes are so beautiful

It’s really simple. Less is more. I love pretty,

a love for fashion, so when Instagram got

and artsy, the fact that there’s flowers and

girly things. I’m not into funky things. I do

big I thought, let me test this out.

polka dots in this together; it’s gorgeous.

it look as elegant as I can by matching it

You’ve recently launched style site

What else do you bring to your style mix?

with a more structured, sophisticated piece.

OwnTheLooks.com, what’s the concept?

If you’re like me and you like to mix and

We collaborate with designers and style

match at times, then designers such as

bought later through the site. We’re working

but really elegant at the same time.

and beautiful.

leather sometimes but if I do I’ll try to make

Who influenced your style?

MOJEH.COM DAILY AT YOUR FINGERTIPS their pieces on bloggers, which can then be Peter Pilotto work well. Prints can look funky

Definitely my mum, I dress like her, we’re

SUBSCRIBE MOJEH MAGAZINE MONTHLY IN YOUR HANDS

m o d el m o m ent s

GIRL’S World Is nepotism out of fashion? As we head into the new season the

spotlight on famous faces has dwindled as brands have begun to By Christopher Prince

Fashion is full of contradictions. The past few

Contrast that to Miu Miu, Prada’s little sister, and

seasons have proven the pulling power of the

you’ll begin to understand Miuccia’s fragmented

new-age supermodel. The likes of Kendall Jenner,

creative vision. 24-year-old Franco-English actress,

Cara Delevingne and Gigi Hadid are all queens

Stacey Martin was a name unheard of before she

of the social media circuit and their faces have

landed the autumn/winter 14 campaign. And just

helped propel brands into a new commercial

a season after, spring/summer 14 featured an

stratosphere. Yet there’s been a change in the

unknown Mia Goth - a half Brazilian, half English child

tide. As fickle as the trends that parade down the

of the nineties. The question is, why the disparity?

runway, this season introduced a host of fresh

In Prada’s case, what she puts on the runway in

new faces to the fold.

comparison to who she features in her campaigns

Miuccia Prada is a case in point. Miuccia sits at

are entities within themselves. As quickly as Prada

the helm of two of the industry’s most recognised

embraced the familiarity of a comeback model on

labels, Prada and Miu Miu. She’s a woman who

her runway, she counteracted it with a campaign

has based her entire career on the paradoxes of

featuring an undiscovered face. Is it a question

fashion, with each season dictated by the swing

therefore that brands, like Prada, are all too aware

of the fashion pendulum. Her spring/summer 15

of the commercial pull of celebrity?

collection was an ode to Prada’s ‘confrontation

It’s difficult to think that making money isn’t a vital

with antiquity’ – a notion that translated the old

element to marketing a brand. Ever since Cara

for the new, perpetuated by a show opener from

Delevingne burst onto the modelling scene during

noughties model, Gemma Ward.

Burberry Prorsum’s spring/summer 11 show, a slew

Gutter: Images courtesy of @gigihadid, @karliekloss and @kendalljenner Instagram

claim back their identities.

The supermodel quartet of Linda Evangelista, Cindy Crawford, Naomi Campbell and Christy Turlington at Versace autumn/winter 1991

Kendall Jenner at Tommy Hilfiger spring/summer 2015

of famous faces have followed suit. Kendall Jenner

utilising famous model faces – see Cara Delevingne

is a perfect example of such fortunes. With over

x DKNY’s ingenious social media campaign featuring

20 million Instagram followers, Jenner provides an

six models that Cara recruited from Instagram, or

unrivalled platform for brands to showcase their

Jeremy Scott’s use of the old school model trinity

products. It’s exactly why make-up giants Estée

to front his Moschino autumn/winter 14 campaign

Launder recruited the reality star to front not only

– there can be a detrimental effect on a brand’s

their digital, TV and print advertising campaigns,

credibility. What exactly distinguishes a well-known

but also to spread the word across social media

face from a fashion brand?

following the decline of the brand’s youth clientele.

In the pre-social media era of the nineties, brands

In the wake of this cultural shift, modelling agencies

made the supermodel. Naomi Campbell famously

like IMG have incorporated social media statistics

disputed the rise of the instagirl during an interview

onto their online portfolios. Measurements may be

on the Meredith Vieira Show in January 2015. ‘I just

on the agenda for casting directors, but it’s now the

feel my generation of women, like Cindy Crawford,

size of a models growing fan base that has taken

Linda Evangelista, Claudia Schiffer, we had to earn

precedence over the size of her enviable waistline.

our stripes and take our stepping stones to get

The importance of social media in today’s

where we have gotten.’ The notion of the nineties

commercially driven world has enticed an appetite for

supermodel defined an era influenced by famous

celebrity culture. It’s something brands have tapped

model faces. Whether it was Christy Turlington

into, and up until now they’ve been all the more

receiving a six figure sum as the face of Maybelline

successful for it. Whilst there’s a certain novelty to

in 1991, or Linda Evangelista famously quoting, ‘I

Moschino autumn/winter 2015

Cara Delevingne at Peter Pilotto spring/sumer 2014

don’t get out of bed for less than $10,000 a day,’

such intrepid adoration for the past, fashion has

the supermodels of the era had a stranglehold

come full circle. In reaction to a season’s worth

on the industry.

of supermodels, a select few designers have

Old school vs. new school, there’s nothing quite like

detached themselves from the pack, recruiting a

a supermodel. The spring/summer 15 season proved

new model army to fly their flag. The autumn/winter

just that. The runways showcased a changing of the

15 collections were evidence of such movements, as

new guard with models like Campbell, Kate Moss

runways rejected established models for a peppering

and Lara Stone feeling the throng of a seasonal

of breakout stars. The beauty of witnessing a debut

comeback on and off the catwalk. Sparking a

model isn’t just reflective of the mood of the season.

fashion renaissance was Alber Elbaz who celebrated

In light of a generation dominated by social media

Lanvin’s 125th anniversary with a parade of model

stars, designers are on the hunt for regeneration,

muses that included Amber Valetta, Kirsten

shaping the current catwalks with newness in mind.

Owen, Małgosia Bela and Audrey Marnay. Giselle

Riding a new wave of black models in the

Bündchen, the industry’s top earning model landed

industry is IMG newcomer Aleah Morgan. The

one of the biggest campaigns of her 17-year-long

resident Californian was booked as an exclusive

career as the face of Chanel N°5. The mélange of

for Alexander Wang this season and has already

models from the past and the present collided as

landed a big brand campaign for American make-up

popular culture informed a growing generation of

retailers, Sephora. Whilst Jean Campbell, daughter

consumers obsessed with famous faces.

of former Vogue fashion editor Isabella Cawdor, has

So where are we at today? Following a season of

already garnered industry recognition fronting the

Cara and Kendall at Chanel Métiers d’Art 2015

latest spring/summer 15 Louis Vuitton ad campaign

for Proenza Schouler. Since debuting at Prada’s

alongside model Freja Beha Erichsen and actress

spring/summer 15 show Bair’s career has gone

Jennifer Connelly.

into overdrive, spawning a stellar autumn/winter

One major player to throw into the mix is 16-year-

15 season walking for the likes of Alexander Wang,

old Latvian newcomer, Anna Grostina. Flying

Mary Katrantzou and Fendi to name a few. In tow

under the social media pseudonym of highhsoul,

with Bair is a union of models forming tightknit

Grostina’s 200,000 strong Instagram account

friendships, including Estonian beauty Harleth

provides a personal insight into the backstage life

Kuusik and Aussie, Helena Severin who are not

of a working teenage model. Debuting at London

only embracing the riches from social media, but

Fashion Week spring/summer 15, Grostina opened

also enlightening aspiring girls of their model journey

the J.W. Anderson show before headlining Prada,

from rookie to fully realised superstar.

Valentino, Alexander McQueen and Giambattista

The common issue with the fashion industry is the

Valli. Her sophomore season saw Grostina morph

longevity of a model’s career. Will these fresh faces

into a Miuccia Prada kitten-heeled, Nixon-era

be relevant next season? And if so, how long will

housewife. Whilst her debut under the gothic veil

they last? Only the truly strong survive. It’s natural

of Riccardo Tisci’s 10-year celebration at the house

to assume the likes of Prada, Givenchy and Louis

of Givenchy transformed the Latvian from new girl

Vuitton – stalwart pillars of the fashion industry, will

to fully-fledged breakout star.

adapt and grow their vision come September. And

Standing tall at an impressive six-foot is Molly

with it a new wave of models will emerge, fighting

Bair who made her breakthrough as an exclusive

for supermodel recognition.

Fa sh io n ban q ue t

SPRING AWAKENING you on trend without falling into cliché territory. Say goodbye to winter with Carven’s jumper (complete with a snowy farewell) and then face the flowers head on with Tory Burch’s watercolour creation. Either way, it looks set to bloom.

GIAMBATTISTA VALLI

A subtle working of spring/summer’s florals will keep

5 4

THE SIMPLE LIFE Keep your fashion slate clean and make your mark definition at the waist with knots and folded fabric or follow Stella McCartneyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s lead and take belts away from your waistband. Accessories are kept minimal with flashes of interest through their blend of textures. An eternally chic statement.

VICTORIA BECKHAM

with quirky details on otherwise classic pieces. Add

4 1

IN THE MIX Metallics make their mark with subtle shades catwalk with icy shades in luxe fabrics as seen at Richard Nicoll, or look to Noon by Noor who doubles up on colour with pretty pink and cool silver. Just keep the colour palette modern.

RICHARD NICOLL

that feel anything but saccharine. Channel the

LOVE STORY The Seventies were a style staple for spring/summer but it’s up to you to explore with your own modern twist. The hippie vibe of Missoni’s knitted vest is culottes. Look back whilst moving forward. It’s the only way to stay ahead.

CHLOÉ

pushed in to the present with The Row’s of-the-now

6 9

S t yl e I ns ider

Stylish Life

There’s nothing that Lina Hamed of Analeena doesn’t know about handbags. Honing her eye as a buyer at Hermès before spending time working with Parisian couturier Jean-Louis Scherrer, it was only a matter of time before the role of designer beckoned. The luxurious lizard and crocodile skin creations of Analeena are toted by everyone from Gossip Girls Blake Lively and Leighton Meester to Rihanna to royalty. We sit down with Lina for a glimpse into her stylish life.

What inspires you to design? Travelling! And taking in everything around me. Nature, the colours of the seasons, food, people, mainly my family. A healthy mind leads to beautiful ideas. Why do handbags mean so much to you? At college I was always called the Bag Lady, because I had a handbag closet to envy! Every woman loves handbags, whether casual or dressy. It’s a staple in every wardrobe, so designing bags is quite challenging. Without a challenge things would be boring. What’s your most important fashion rule? Don’t follow rules or trends! Be yourself. What’s your favourite item in your wardrobe and why is it important to you? It’s hard to choose one favourite, but I would definitely say jeans! What will you be wearing for spring/summer 2015? Kaftans! I love kaftans on the boat in summer and at home in the evenings. And definitely an array of Analeena crocodile handbags in a rainbow of colours! What is your favourite thing to invest in? Lately I’ve been obsessed with baby buggies! I have a big collection of them! I’m a sucker for anything new in the ‘baby buggy world’. Who influences your style and how? My family, because they are the most honest critics. We are six ladies including my mother and sister in law and each of us has her own style, her own look. How has your style evolved over the years? My style has matured with me. I have staple pieces that I always wear, leather leggings, riding boots, and a fur sleeveless gilet. I’m not afraid of colour, I love experimenting and mixing colours and fabrics. Where’s the place you can travel to over and over and never get bored?

What is your favourite fashion-related memory?

Florence. I work in Florence and I’ve made myself a good social

Bumping into the late Yves Saint Laurent whilst living in Paris, after

environment there. Having breakfast by the Arno river is the best

he had just closed his Haute Couture house. I hesitated before

way to wake up, walking around night or day and indulging in the

speaking to him, he was walking his dog. It turned out he lived

architecture and endless frescoes never gets boring!

close by me! I asked him for advice, and he said firmly but with his delicate voice in French: to be confident in what I do and love

Where will you be spending the summer and with whom?

it, and present only one idea to the client and to stick to it, as too

Definitely with my family. Summer is the only time the factory is

many choices cause confusion.

closed in Italy, so that time is sacred for me to be with my family. We are a big family and do everything together! We travel to our

If you could give any advice to your younger self, what

usual places, on a boat to the South of France, Italy, Turkey, Croatia,

would it be?

and the last ten days relaxing in a spa in Austria.

Have lots of sleep before you have a baby! No, I’m kidding, I think I would tell myself that life is not just about work and a career,

What is your favourite time of year?

it’s important to give time to the ones you love, and it’s all about

I love autumn, my favourite season. I could look at the colours of

balance…because you can happily have both.

the trees for hours, it’s really inspiring. I love the snow too, I’m an avid skier, so for me I am always excited about the snow season

What’s your motto to live by?

holidays! I love to layer and wear my winter coats!

Dream. Explore. Discover. Evolve.

100

m o j eh v i ew

It’s a

Woman’s

World

An increasing number of womenswear brands have taken to designing menswear lines. Are men finally getting in touch with their feminine

Of course, these brands aren’t attempting to hawk skirts and high heels to men (not yet, anyway), rather they are designing innovative and inventive clothing that appeals to today’s increasingly fashion-conscious male consumer.

side? Or are fashion’s traditional notions of

The question is: why are these brands braving a man’s world?

masculinity and femininity giving way to a new

is growing exponentially.

wave of androgyny?

The straightforward answer is money – the menswear market A 2013 report from Bains & Company found that, since the economic downturn, the growth of the menswear market has outpaced that of womenswear, increasing between nine and 13 per cent year-on-year since 2009. Euromonitor International meanwhile, reported that the menswear market grew by roughly five per cent in 2013 – one per cent more than womenswear. Euromonitor’s study also reveals that while

By Oliver Robinson

women still spend more than men on personal luxury goods, growth in the men’s luxury market will continue to outpace that

The year is 1968. New York socialite Nan Kempner is kicking up

of women’s over the next five years. Global sales of men’s luxury

a fuss outside fashionable French restaurant and high-society

goods are projected to hit US$110 billion by 2019, up 36 per

temple La Côte Basque on 60 West 55th Street.

cent from US$81 billion in 2014.

The doorman doesn’t care that her trousers are Yves Saint

Fashion houses are reacting accordingly. Last year, onetime

Laurent. The fact of the matter is: they’re trousers. And

female-centric brand Prada announced plans to open 50 more

Nan is a lady. And the two, according to the doorman, are

dedicated men’s shops over the next five years – a move that

mutually exclusive.

executives hope will double menswear sales to US$2 billion.

Nan eventually concedes defeat. She checks her trousers and

It’s little surprise then, that the menswear segment is likely to

fashions an unflattering makeshift skirt. Not the kind of entrance

get its own New York Fashion Week.

she was hoping for.

But what advantages are there for the womenswear brands

Nan has since passed away. The famous La Côte Basque closed

making a foray into men’s fashion?

in 2004. And what became of the doorman, no one knows. It’s

‘They have the advantage of already being known,’ says Dubai-

likely he’s gone the same way as Nan and La Côte, taking with

based womenswear designer Deborah Henning. ‘Depending

him his out-dated views on ladies’ fashion.

on the brand, menswear might be a natural extension. It’s also

Today, the notion of anyone batting an eyelid at a lady sporting

easier for known womenswear brands to push the boundaries

a pair of trousers (let alone denying them entry to a restaurant)

in menswear when there is already a name people can trust

is nothing short of ridiculous. Men’s garments are commonplace

and buy into. Buying a completely new menswear line with

in every girl’s wardrobe – whether it’s boyfriend jeans, a plaid

controversial styles takes early adopters, of which there are

shirt or a pair of brogues.

fewer, so its takes longer to build the brand.’

It’s unlikely that men will ever show the same enthusiasm for

Henning continues: ‘If the brand has a clear identity and aesthetic

women’s clothing, but this isn’t enough to dissuade a growing

it should be able to create a menswear line that reflects the

number of womenswear brands from making a foray into the

female consumer in male fashion. It doesn’t mean it needs to

menswear market.

crossover into the womenswear styling and most brands are

Celebrated womenswear designer Tory Burch is set to launch a

taking this approach.’

line of men’s accessories later this year, while high-end jewellery

Dawn Anna Williamson, a fashion writer and stylist currently

house Fabergé launched a men’s wristwatch collection at

working in Dubai, agrees: ‘Diversity of product and brand

Baselworld in March. High-street labels are also getting in on

recognition is higher [than existing menswear brands]. The

the act. Zara and Topshop’s Topman have long enjoyed an

brands are really answering their customers’ needs. These

enthusiastic response to their menswear, and Whistles has just

brands already have a loyal customer base – they understand

debuted a menswear line.

the market and have a great platform to launch from.

MOJEH MEN issue 4, When in Brooklyn, photographed by Riccardo Vimercati

MOJEH issue 22, City Limits, photographed by Riccardo Buratti

102

They have a retail presence in all the major shopping malls and are therefore poised and prepared to attract this new category of shopper. They certainly face significantly less entry barriers than new brands entering the market.’ Marketing-speak aside, there’s also an argument that the sortie into menswear is providing talented womenswear designers with a new creative outlet. In a blog posting on the British Library website, Geraldine Wharry,

we live in an age where we, the consumer, are constructing our own identities more freely than ever. As a result, ‘traditional’ demographic segments, such as age and gender, no longer define our consumption patterns.

creative director of London-based trend forecasting consultancy Trend Atelier, writes that womenswear is a driver for innovation in terms of details and surface treatments. Meanwhile, menswear,

sent men and women sporting near-identical looks down the

in her opinion, has become ‘a pool for new ideas and fashion

same runway in Milan.

paradigms, twisting dogmas and preconceived notions of virility,

Meanwhile, Selfridges department store in London, UK, is

body image, tailoring and casuals.’

‘sweeping aside the boundaries of gender in retail’ with the

She continues: ‘These codes were being morphed into a

new Agender campaign. The retailer is doing away with men

vocabulary by a range of designers from the high-end to

and women’s sections, and promoting a range of gender-

promising fashion graduates. The key being the contrast

neutral clothing by designers such as Rad Hourani, Comme

between virility and traditionally perceived female preferences

des Garçons, and Gareth Pugh.

perfectly illustrated by the hot pink military jumpsuit from

‘The idea is to remove the traditional binary gender division,’

Louis Vuitton spring/summer 15 collection. With pinks and

Linda Hewson, the creative director at Selfridges, told press.

purples being massively on display in the spring/summer 15

‘A genderless attitude to fashion and styling is increasingly

catwalks, may this be a warning to the faint of heart, there is

mainstream, so we want to remove the directive gender

a lot coming your way.’

values in clothes.’

Some, more cerebral observers might go as far as arguing

Whether this trend will take off in the UAE remains to be seen.

that this march on male fashion by the womenswear brands

‘Brands that are overtly promoting an androgynous style that is

is a subliminal victory for feminism – men, subconsciously or

meant to be worn by men and women will have a harder time

otherwise, are embracing femininity through the styles and

convincing customers,’ says Henning. ‘It depends on the city

colours they wear.

and the consumer attitude whether this crossover will work.

This, sadly, would be missing the point. If anything, the

After all, for hundreds of years, male and female clothing has

phenomenon of womenswear brands designing men’s clothes

been separate, so to break this mould and people’s attitudes

is more about androgyny than it is femininity.

is going to take time.’

Fashion houses are increasingly reluctant to brand themselves

While local male consumers may be suspicious of the

as being ‘for women’ or ‘for men’. This, according to website

‘androgynous’ aesthetic, Henning believes that there will be

trendwatching.com, is a symptom of post-demographic

an appetite for the menswear lines from high-end brands such

consumerism. In plain English: we live in an age where we, the

as Michael Kors and Tory Burch.

consumer, are constructing our own identities more freely than

‘I think that the Middle East, especially Dubai, will take to the

ever. As a result, ‘traditional’ demographic segments, such as

menswear lines well,’ she says. ‘Generally, Dubai is very positive

age and gender, no longer define our consumption patterns.

about creative developments and change. In the rest of the

It’s easy to see why labels are keen to drop the ‘womenswear’

Middle East, brands that are known solely for womenswear

prefix, in a world where a genderless attitude to fashion is

may see initial slow growth in menswear styles. But it really

becoming the norm.

does depend on the brand – some will easily be able to offer a

‘Androgyny continues to be on-trend season after season,’ notes

menswear line. Other brands that are aligned with a very feminine

Willamson. ‘Men have an increased awareness of style, grooming

product might have a bigger task on their hands and will need

and fashion, which is now evolving further into gender-neutral

a bigger marketing budget to really relay the menswear story

clothing. But I’m still not convinced that men choosing feminine

and differentiate it.’

styles will be as successful as it has been for women wearing

Williamson echoes Henning’s sentiments in regards to the local

menswear brands, cuts and styles. We can see a move towards

appetite – or lack thereof – for androgynous style, and agrees

this area in colour selection – men now regularly wear bright

that high-end womenswear brands are more likely to succeed

colours, pinks and prints. I think one area that this does work

in selling their men’s collections.

in, is accessories. The once-clichéd ‘man bag’ has become

‘I think it is unlikely that gender-neutral style will take off in the

commonplace, we regularly see fashionable males carrying

UAE,’ she says. ‘However, I think that a high-end menswear line

oversized bags and it is no longer considered a feminine domain.’

from a luxury brand such as Elie Saab, for example, will prove

Androgynous style is now commonplace on the catwalk: Spring

particularly popular and with Middle East customers. Ultimately

15 heralded Christopher Kane’s neon-net T-shirts, while Prada

it’s all about luxury in the UAE.’

104

Fa sh io n f eatu re

Designer Roadshow No longer is the fashion landscape confined to the seasons. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a brave new world out there for designers looking to influence a global generation.

Saint Laurent spring/summer 2015

Esprit Dior Tokyo 2015

Just as Raf Simons transported his Dior

offer clients the option to shop for attire

woman to the far reaches of the Orient,

that has been consciously selected for

and Tom Ford usurped London for Los

the region’s hot climate. It all comes

Angeles, designers have been in the

down to commercial viability as buyers

mood for change. Whilst runways may

acknowledge that customers can be

debut the latest trends, collections have

both seasoned travellers as well as

all but morphed into one as the periphery

desert dwellers.

of the seasons have begun to blur. In

The notion that travel can dictate our

tandem with ready-to-wear collections

wardrobes has propelled designers to

that span from New York to Paris, the

jettison their two-season schedules to

pre and resort collections have made

debut multiple collections a year, off

their mark on the fashion calendar. Whilst

piste from Paris and far removed from

the media may flock to the historic show

Milan. However this isn’t always the rule

capitals each season, designers have

of thumb. Take a glance at the creative

looked to alternative routes to elevate

director of Saint Laurent, Hedi Slimane

their brands, offering a much bigger

– a business savvy music enthusiast

fashion landscape than ever before.

with a passion for the L.A underground.

It’s a relatively new concept for countries

Whilst Tom Ford may have jumped ship

outside of the U.S, where mid season

across the Atlantic on the hunt for a

collections cemented their status via

star studded front row, Slimane instead

American powerhouse Calvin Klein in

stayed true to the brand’s Parisian

the eighties. Rewind a decade prior

roots. Saint Laurent, now far removed

and the likes of Chanel and Yves Saint

from Slimane’s predecessor, Stefano

Laurent were expanding and diffusing

Pilati, has been booming commercially

their lines in the wake of a sportswear

as of late and it’s all down to that

phenomenon. For locations like the

familiar Los Angeles attitude invading

Middle East, pre and resort collections

Parisian shores.

106

Valentino flagship store on Fifth Avenue, New York

Valentino New York Haute Couture 2015

A 55-look collection inspired by

eponymous label, Lagerfeld has been

Slimane’s exhaustive rock exploration.

at the creative helm at Fendi for four

Here ‘psyche rock’ littered the runway

decades. Next in the pipeline is a Fendi

with a display of seventies mini dresses

couture collection in July that will add to

and platform sandals inspired by the

the eight ready-to-wear collections and

original YSL muse, Betty Catroux,

two haute couture collections already

who sat front row. His show space – a

on schedule. As Fashionista.com so

shaft lined with mirrored pillars that hit

aptly put it, ‘At this point, what’s one

with kaleidoscopic light, transported

more couture show?’

Paris to the west coast with a crowd

The system for Lagerfeld is simple.

peppered with the likes of Lenny

Create clothes and accessories that

Kravitz, Pete Doherty and Thomas

people want. Outside of the business

Bangalter. Slimane’s ability to inform

medium however, is the romantic

an entirely new location for YSL – save

idea that designers design to express

the ‘Yves’ – has garnered a revenue

creativity. Lagerfeld has shone in

worth EU€707.3 in 2014. That’s a 27

this regard, informed by his Métiers

per cent rise since he took the helm

d’Art collections held annually around

three years ago.

the world. Like the pre-collections,

Commercial gain has always been part

Métiers d’Art offers a chance to

of Karl Lagerfeld’s lexicon. Headlining

showcase the craftsmanship from

a brand as synonymous with Parisian

the many workshops that provide the

fashion as Chanel garners a dedicated

Chanel brand with their luxury fabrics,

following that has continued to evolve

embroidery and embellishments. Chanel

since the brands induction in 1909.

explores Byzance, Bombay, Edinburgh,

Lagerfeld is a mastermind of the fashion

Dallas and now Salzburg in 2015 to

cause. Along with Chanel and his own

celebrate their 11th anniversary.

Chanel Métiers d’Art 2014

Who would’ve placed Chanel in Edinburgh’s Linlithgow Palace? And why did Chanel journey to the Far East in Shanghai’s Bund area?

Rather than just investing in the

visual stimulation, for the select few

a regal procession of gowns, 78 to be

c o m m e rc i a l

opening

to take a longer glance at the clothes

exact, lovingly crafted in lace and silk

flagship stores and selling wares

aspect

outside of the manic fashion month

with no expense spared.

in affluent regions, Lagerfeld has

calendar.

It’s a concept adopted by Raf Simons

instead relocated the Chanel brand

In similar fashion, Domenico Dolce and

at Christian Dior. Whilst some designers

and taken it on a global scale. Who

Stefano Gabbana have adopted their

may have staged their show for the

would’ve placed Chanel in Edinburgh’s

own take on mid season collections.

sake of the arts, Simons’ business eye

Linlithgow Palace? And why did Chanel

Their annual Alta Moda show is the

targeted the revived economic climate of

journey to the Far East in Shanghai’s

Italian design duos answer to haute

Japan for his Dior Esprit show. Staged

Bund area? The answer is defined in

couture. Last season saw 300 guests

at the grand Ryogoku Kokugikan, Dior

Lagerfeld’s appreciation of artisanal

transported to the shores of Capri, with

Esprit journeyed from Paris to Tokyo.

craft, showcased in the most pragmatic

a show space set within the crook of a

Prior to the show Simons mentioned,

of ways. Of course the decadence of

secret beach bay lined with deckchairs.

‘Tokyo is a place that has been and is

these shows is simply engineered for

Several front row princesses witnessed

so constantly inspiring to me. Particularly

108 As with all fashion shows, the ability to transport the onlooker into another world is paramount. It’s part of the designer psyche – a mood, a spirit for the season.

in terms of the liberty people take for

showcasing Simons’ contribution to

for instance the classic Lady Dior bag,

themselves in how they dress, there

the ‘pre-collection’ calendar but also

blown up in giant childlike proportions

is nowhere else like it; the freedom of

to debut the House of Dior exhibition,

or limited to tiny purse shapes with their

styles, the new architecture of clothing

connecting the brand’s legacy with the

thick strap echoing kawaii, a kitsch

that you can see forming in the street

now. That came by anime iterations of

mannerism of Japanese pop culture.

as well as in the city’s fashion design

the Dior woman clad in coats printed with

Tapping into new or neglected markets

history. It’s a place that is both extreme

Hokusai’s ‘Great Wave off Kanagawa’ –

is where brands have succeeded with

and exhilarating.’

previously showcased by John Galliano,

mid-season collections. The importance

As with all fashion shows, the ability

to obi belts first introduced by Mr. Dior

of fashion week is to introduce a sense

to transport the onlooker into another

himself, and in embroidered kimono

of novelty – which is why designers

world is paramount. It’s part of the

sleeves perpetuated by Simons’ love of

like Simons have taken hold of the

designer psyche – a mood, a spirit for

Japanese tradition.

opportunity to flex their creative muscle.

the season. On a grand scale, Dior

Of course marketing was still a substantial

Outside of the fairytale fashion box are

Esprit was marketing genius, not only

vehicle for Simons to sell his wares. Take

brands on the hunt for global expansion.

The star studded front row at Tom Ford autumn/winter 2015

Julianne Moore at the Tom Ford Autumn/Winter 2015 show held in Milk Studios, Los Angeles

In tandem with Dior Esprit during the

an autumn/winter 15 uproot to Los

month of December was Valentino, who

Angeles, aptly during Oscars week. ‘This

debuted a one off couture show away

was a pragmatic decision,’ Ford said on

from their Parisian atelier. Housed in the

the eve of his show. ‘How much global

former Whitney Museum of American Art

press worldwide do you think you’re

space on Madison Avenue, design duo

going to get for a show in London the

Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli

day after the Oscars?’

purified the international media with a

Shunning London and rebuilding a

monastic collection crafted entirely in

replica of his show space in tinsel

white. The white riffed off the iconic 1968

town proved to be a savvy move. His

era of Valentino Garavani. Charming as

Milk Studios location was filled to the

the embroidered ‘LOVE NY’ column

rafters with famous faces, from Amy

gowns were, the New York procession

Adams, Beyoncé, Gwyneth Paltrow

didn’t just pull creative heartstrings,

to Oscar winner Julianne Moore. The

but also established Valentino as a

show was simply an astute marketing

commercial force following the news of

strategy, embracing Hollywood’s elite

its inaugural Fifth Avenue store opening

and catapulting Ford’s celebrity into the

in the city. Aside from the collection,

fashion stratosphere.

guests were treated to a variety of rooms

No doubt the travelling roadshow will

specific for the occasion, from candy-

continue well into 2015. Designers

tasting sessions, a fragrance room and a

are latching on to the demands of

space filled with giant eyeballs. Valentino

their customers, and acknowledging

proved it wasn’t just staging a show, but

their own personal gain by creating

a fully realised experience.

mass media frenzies. Will resort and

The audacity of moving a show

the pre-collections be the prelude to

permanently from one location to

future seasons? This spring may have

another is something Tom Ford always

proven just that as designers continue to

had in mind. Three years in London

evolve our wardrobes for any occasion,

proved to be more than enough before

whatever the weather.

Fashion In Full Bloom Photographed by AMBER GRAY Styled by SANTA BEVACQUA

Silk dress, DIOR

Printed dress, DIOR

Shirt dress, DIOR

Embroidered dress and shoes, DIOR

Knitted top and dress, DIOR

Both wear jacquard dress, DIOR

Model 1 wears satin coat and knitted top, DIOR | Model 2 wears embroidered coatdress, DIOR

Long satin coat and shoes, DIOR

Models: Nora Vai and Alexa Yudina at Muse Make-up artist: David Tibolla for Dior Beauty DP: Julian Bernstein Production: Louis Agency Shot on location at the Japanese Tea Garden of San Francisco and the Conservatory of Flowers.

The Conservatory of Flowers is a spectacular living museum of rare and beautiful tropical plants under glass. From Borneo to Bolivia, the 1,750 species of plants at the Conservatory represent unusual flora from more than 50 countries around the world. Opened in 1879, the wood and glass greenhouse is the oldest existing conservatory in North America of its kind and has attracted millions of visitors to Golden Gate Park since it first opened its doors. It is designated as a city, state and national historic landmark. For more information please visit www.conservatoryofflowers.org

All, GIVENCHY BY RICCARDO TISCI

Rouge Awakening Photographed by JULIEN VALLON Styled by IGI AYEDUN

Dress, VERSACE

Jumpsuit, ELIE SAAB

All, LOUIS VUITTON

All, DIOR

All, ISSEY MIYAKE

All, DOLCE & GABBANA

Creative director: AVYA+ Model: Anastasia Safonov at Marilyn Paris Hair stylist: Gaelle Bertoletti Make-up artist: Céline Lemonnier Photographer’s assistant: Charly Gosp Production: Louis Agency

All, CÉLINE

Moving Times With

The

Photographed by OLIVIER ROSE Styled by GUILLAUME BOULEZ

Top and trousers, STELLA MCCARTNEY | Shoes, YOHJI YAMAMOTO | Earrings, HERVE VAN DER STRAETEN

All, CÃ&#x2030;LINE

Dress, MARC JACOBS | Earring, HERVE VAN DER STRAETEN

Dress, LANVIN | Necklace, HERVE VAN DER STRAETEN

All, GIVENCHY BY RICCARDO TISCI

Dress, LOUIS VUITTON

All, BALENCIAGA

Model: Kelsey Owens at Next Models Hair stylist: Chiao Chenet at Airport Agency Make-up artist: Helene Vasnier at ArtList Photographer’s assistant: Morgane Pouliquen Stylist’s assistant: Pierre Brejoux Digital: Regis Houzet at 42 Digital Answers Production: Louis Agency

Dress, EMANUEL UNGARO | Shoes, CÉLINE | Necklace, HERVE VAN DER STRAETEN

146

st r e et s ty l e

Access Street the

Mastering the art of accessorising is no easy feat. But during Fashion Month for autumn/ winter 15 we witnessed some of the most covetable emerging trends that will see us through the year.

Photographed by Valentina Frugiuele

Eyewear that speaks of a bygone era is a must-have. Take from the Seventies and pick a pair of shades a la Fendi that will add a modern appeal to any ensemble.

From Diorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s spring/summer 15 catwalk and straight to the street: the looped belt. Highlighting the waist is set to be a major trend for 2015. Take note and pair it with an understated dress.

Hot hues and bold blues are the colour palette of choice for your bag this season. Clash it with patterns and prints to add a splash of colour that will make any outfit pop.

148

As monochrome casts aside its Sixtiesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; vibrations, the streets are taking hold of this classic combination. Give it a fresh update with geometrics and couture detailing. From perfect leather bow positioning to chunky arm candy, play with the elements.

Play a game of colours by fusing red, white and black together for an in-your-face feel. Allow earrings to dangle in all-out black as they make an easy statement.

Embrace a retro feel with wood-inspired accessories. Wood stained and grained clutches or block heels will update your wardrobe and welcome nature in all its glory.

As seen on celebrities to bloggers, the shade of the season has arrived thanks to Dior. From simple sundresses to tailored trousers these shades will perfect any look in the summer sun.

150

S t yl e NOTE

Erdem spring/summer 2015

Borrowing from the boys has always been a fashion must. As the historical gladiator sandal makes a forceful comeback this season, designers have made the strappy sandal, the summer female-friendly footwear, a favourite once more.

From finding its firm footing in films to adorning the leggy looks of many an ancient Goddess, the sandal has never strayed too far from the mainstream. With its dominance across male warriors in movies like Gladiator to its edgy elegance thanks to Rita Hayworth in 1947â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Down to Earth, the design has stayed relevant in the modern day. They may hold the more manly touch but this season women have claimed them in their own right. Charms dangle from Valentinoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s design like drops of gleaming gold dust. Similarly, Chloe and Stella McCartney kept things simple with a touch of leather and Bohemia. Designer Erdem Moralioglu turned to cinematic classic The African Queen for inspiration as straps wound around legs like vines, creating a sense of botanical exoticism. For the fearless fashion warrior Isabel Marant strayed to the bold side of summer style with sandals fit for a Parisian soldier. Spring/summer 15 is all about the legs: as the summer sun approaches, intertwining lace-up sandals will adorn the feet of many a trendsetter. Whether youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re a lover or a fighter, as the season begins, our footwear of choice will have us standing on edge, ready for exploring new lands.

152

A cc es s o ry edit

Summer

Shine Photographed by AMAR DAVED Styled by NATALIE TREVIS

Model: Olga Verdish at Wilhelmina Models Dubai

Shine your light with summer metallics that add a dash of sparkle to any outfit. Gold tones on bronzed skin take us straight to the warmth of the Côte d’Azur while icy silvers and electric blues are a cooling balm when combined with summer whites.

154

Graphic

Simplicity

Sometimes clean lines and graphic details deliver a cleansing simplicity of form. Whether monochrome or tan, these accessories will do daily duty without overpowering.

156

Painterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

palette

Subtly hued accessories add a ladylike touch that is enough to sweeten the toughest of tomboy outfits. Pastel pink handbags and aquamarine satin heels lighten the mood as we compile our summer wardrobes.

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M o st D es i r ed

MALONE SOULIER COLOUR POP

Cordwainers – as part of London College of Fashion

States as well as our own Symphony in Dubai Mall.

– has a long history of churning out some of the most

Handmade in Italy, Malone’s creations are nothing short

prominent shoe designers in the world. Mary Alice

of wearable art – luxurious Italian leathers are combined

Malone is no exception. As creative director of Malone

with exotic skins and pops of colour, ensuring you make a

Souliers, the American export has turned her hand to

statement on the street. Not just for special occasions, the

creating striking shoes that are both strong and feminine.

silhouettes and proportions allow for ease of wear making

Only on their third season, the brand has already been

these pieces office and day time appropriate. And for

seen on style influencers like Solange Knowles and is

those who prefer to seriously stand out in the shoe style

stocked worldwide at stores such as Matches in London,

stakes, Malone also offers an exclusive made to measure

Bergdorf Goodman and Saks Fifth Avenue in the United

that means your Cinderella slipper truly is a perfect fit.

MARLI

GENERATION GEMS

Fresh from the streets of New York, Marli stands out

alone, the gems will add an elegant touch to an

amongst the bold and big jewellery with its stunning

otherwise pared-back look, making it luxurious in

and simple creations. Crafted in only the finest of

its very essence. Though simple in spirit, the striking

materials, adorn your skin with gold and diamonds

designs have enough originality to stand out - rose

in a variety of shades. With a modern outlook that

gold and onyx are paired with diamonds, silver and

goes beyond the age-old style, Marli has recreated

gold in minute and flexible spirals. Whether you go

the diamond for a new generation. Architectural

for a classic bracelet or a more trend-led stack of

pieces place the jewels as a contemporary collectorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

rings, one thing is for sure; Marliâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s jewels are made

dream and elevate, rather than compete, with your

to be pieces that once on, never come off â&#x20AC;&#x201C; classic

wardrobe. Whether layered together or standing

jewellery staples that work whatever the occasion.

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D e sig n I n F o c u s

Beauty in the

BugS By Susan Devaney

Time after time we are drawn toward natureâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s creepy-crawlies. From winged scarab beetles to crawling caterpillars, insect-inspired jewellery is once more finding its place in the spotlight.

1. Phoenix necklace, DANIELLA VILLEGAS | 2. Parure Eyes of Infinity necklace, WALLACE CHAN | 3. Anemoi ring, DANIELLA VILLEGAS | 4. Bee ring, CHAUMET | 5. Scarab necklace, BIBI VAN DER VELDEN

2 3

Come on, let’s crawl to the Ugly Bug Ball – where there’s a swarm of cicadas, sun-soaked golden butterflies circling the sunshine and a garden of fun-filled crickets clicking their crickety melodies. From Chaumet to Cindy Chao, the wonderful world of jewellery has always turned to nature’s glory for inspiration. Since the beginning of mankind

we have found fantasy and fun in adorning ourselves in pieces of beautifully bugged jewellery. ‘Every so often we must go back to our childhood to create something,’ Angela Camurati, the founder of Italian jewellery brand Vhernier, told me, surrounded by her beautiful pieces. From hand carved necklaces in coloured gemstones to popping orange leather bags adorned with a single shining bug - all capturing the innate essence of each insect and bringing them to life. In the stereotypical Italian way, Camurati wildly gestures as she animatedly retells her childhood story: ‘I was in the garden and a green caterpillar fell from the tree onto my head. I started to gently play with it in my hands – it was fun! I told myself: why don’t we design a caterpillar? We didn’t interpret it exactly as it is. It became a very joyful caterpillar. The colours we use to design it are not natural. I thought women would enjoy the caterpillar,’ she explained. For most children this fascination with insects starts in our own secret garden as we discover bugs hidden in amongst the blossoms, greenery and flora. And rightly so, as women have enjoyed wearing insect-inspired pieces for centuries. Live-set beetles on gold chains wrapped around necks, were commonplace for the Ancient Egyptians and Mayan people of Central America. Such adornments have always been a status symbol - a method to depict a sense of hierarchy. Gem-set butterflies, enamelled beetles and gold encrusted bugs were favoured during the Victorian Era. Similarly, the period of Art Nouveau drew an

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affiliation with insects morphing into fantasy creatures. Dragonflies as enamelled brooches featuring the insect were delicately designed in both gold and silver. At present Vhernier’s Bruco caterpillar brooch conveys a mirage-like quality in its cut. From lapis, onyx, white mother of pearl, cornelian, jade or coral, the caterpillar transforms into an array of colours. The rock crystal beneath each and every one has been carved from a single block. The finishing touch of pavé diamond feet give the composition a little sparkle. Our unwavering curiosity toward bugs stems from our primitive years and early instincts. In stories, lie history and emotions. ‘Interaction is the art and essence of jewellery,’ explains Hong Kong-based jeweller Wallace Chan. ‘I do not care which kind of emotional response is going to be evoked, no matter if the feeling is related to romantic love, parental love, friendship, a sense of belonging or sense of perfect satisfaction. People can combine what they have felt through the jewellery pieces with their personal experience. It will then transform into a distinctive sort of happiness, which is the primitive value of

jewellery,’ he says. Gaining a sense of happiness from beautifully designed pieces is what drives us back to bugs. Whether they hold sentimental value that’s linked to our childhood or a simple love towards nature, we’re connected to them. ‘It is undeniable that jewellery exists as a result of human emotion - unflinchingly romantic love… During creation, the work is projected with the creator’s experience and emotions at present; on the other hand sympathetic responses of purchasers should be echoed,’ explains Chan. These pieces of jewellery provide the wearer with confidence and sheer joy every time it’s worn – that’s the price of investment. This confidence may stem from the societal status attached to insects. Just as the Ancient Egyptians turned to the scarab beetle to illustrate a class system, we use them as symbols of our personality today. Chaumet’s recent collection, Bee My Love, places the bee as a power source. Known for its symbolic nature of power and immorality, our love for the bee has never waned. With a collection comprising of

the bee and its habitat, honey-coloured sapphires encased in gold form many a creation. From rings to tiaras, lagoon blue sapphires, tsavorite garnets, diamonds and Paraiba tourmalines create the bee’s secret garden. The honeycomb structure provides a glow of geometric shapes. The ability to transform insects into life-like sculptural pieces of art can be seen across a wide range of Asian jewellery designers. Their affinity towards certain creatures can be linked to cultural significance throughout history. ‘Entrusted with human emotion, jewels themed with insects are able to express the cultural and metaphysical significance in the most direct and clear way. For instance, butterflies symbolise eternal love in China and souls of rebirth in ancient Greece. Therefore, insects are always the art objects for those who are passionate in creativity. And with constant revolutions of craftsmanship, insect-like jewellery now appears to be more and more lifelike and realistic,’ explains Chan. The Cicada’s Song (a brooch) in the form of a cicada by Chan is exquisite. Crafted from imperial Jadeite – the colour green symbolises prestige within Chinese culture. Turned upside down and the colour of cabochon lavender jade can be seen. Glistening yellow diamonds wrap around the body of the Cicada. In China, the colour yellow symbolises royalty. The cicada is of great historical significance within Chinese culture. Similarly, even though the scorpion is technically not an insect, with its bug-like body and self-sufficiency it holds a lot of historic interest. The Wallace, a scorpion-inspired necklace, brings together two lovers attracted to the cat’s eye in the form of alexandrite. Rubies, demantoid garnets, yellow sapphires and diamonds create the entire necklace. Why will there always be beauty in the bugs? As experts claim there are millions of insects still waiting to be discovered, our love of bugs looks set to continue. ‘Lives of insects are short but they can still find out their values of lives within the exceptionally limited time of

being,’ Chan explains. They come and go within the blink of an eye (existing only for mere days or months at a time) - maybe therein lies our true fascination. The role of transformation and metamorphosis in the lives of bugs consistently captures our own imagination. Our links to sentimentality and emotions from our childhood days of playing in the garden keep the beauty alive. From Chaumet to Cindy Chao to Wallace Chan, designers help to keep the reinvention of insects modern. As we continue to adorn ourselves in delicately beautiful life-like bugs, we’re reminded that it’s a wonderful bug’s life after all. 6

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A cc es s o ry affair s

DIAMOND CONSTRUCTION Add structure with jewels that make a statement in their simplicity. Van Cleef & Arpelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s striking Cadenas watch will bring an architectural edge to your wrist whilst Noor Faresâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; orb inception will hang pretty from your neck. Maintain glamour through minimalism with incandescent diamonds that light up the room.

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Crawling Back Lose yourself in a rainforest of gems and bring to light the creatures from its depths. Gaydamak’s carpe hand bracelet will add a splash to any outfit whilst Cindy Chao’s eightlegged brooches will be sure to creep up the fashion stakes. Don’t be afraid to add a jungle element.

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StarStatus m o j eh v i ew

When it comes to high jewellery do celebrity ambassadors on the red carpet radiate A-list allure; or have you turning on your Louboutins? MOJEH investigates…

DE GRISOGONO, Boule necklace

revolutionised red carpet glamour as we know it. Indeed his love affair with Hollywood began earlier still: in the 1930s Mr Winston acquired a 726-carat stone, known as ‘The Jonker’, a gem that stirred up so much excitement it was not only photographed with leading starlets of the time, Shirley Temple and Claudette Colbert, but became a star in its own right as the subject of a short film produced by MGM in 1936. Fast forward to the modern-day and the 2015 Oscars saw supermodel Karolina Kurkova in diamond earrings, bracelets and ring totalling over

Paparazzi bulbs flash and mega-watt smiles sparkle – but nothing

85 carats and Nicole Kidman in diamond ear studs, bracelet

quite captures the spotlight of the Oscars like the million-dollar

and rings totalling over 115 carats.

diamonds that take a starring role on the red carpet year after

To the high jewellery buyer, however, the contractual agreements

year. When the belles of Tinseltown stepped out just last month

reportedly formed between jewellery maisons and their leading

for the 87th Academy Awards they did so in show-stopping style:

ladies (a one-time appearance at the Oscars is said to earn

Cate Blanchett turned heads in a turquoise floral bib necklace by

some actresses six-to-seven figures) could be deemed in rather

Tiffany & Co; Best Actress winner Julianne Moore wore diamond

bad taste. Take Charlize Theron, for example. In 2008, a lawsuit

earrings and rings totalling over 30 carats from Chopard; while

was brought against her by watchmakers Raymond Weil who

Nicole Kidman waved the flag for Harry Winston.

had paid her $3 million to appear in an advertising campaign

As Australian-born, blonde-of-the-moment Margot Robbie

with the stipulation she must also wear the watch in public. That

sauntered past the cameras, a reporter stopped her. She’s sporting

court case also revealed that she was paid $200,000 to wear

a navel-diving neckline, her modesty saved only by a statement

Chopard gems to the Academy Awards, and $50,000 to wear

Zip Antique necklace from Van Cleef & Arpels. A piece worth $1.5

them to the BAFTAs.

million. When asked about it, the 24-year-old starlet said, ‘This

Chopard – who this year dressed Marion Cotillard, Lupita Nyong’o

necklace right here is worth more than my life. I’m so scared...

and Julianne Moore in diamonds – insist their exclusivity has

I keep checking to make sure it’s still here.’ For high jewellery

far from faltered in forming such public partnerships. ‘We don’t

buyers, the question beckons: would such a statement from the

choose them, they choose us!’ says Chopard’s International

faltering Robbie inspire you to emulate her style? Or does such

Communication Director, Raffaella Rossiello on the celebrities in

a celebrity ambassador only cheapen a piece whose blueprint

question. Indeed, the maison reasons, there is no better catwalk

can be credited to the Duchess of Windsor?

– or models – on which to showcase their great works. ‘Red

The story of the Zip necklace dates back to the Duchess – formerly

carpets are very special moments for celebrities but also for

Wallis Simpson – who suggested to Van Cleef & Arpels artistic

the jewellery and fashion brands,’ Rossiello goes on. ‘Indeed,

director Renée Puissant that she should create a piece based

we have the possibility to show our unique creations worn by

on the fastener. The result – crafted in round and baguette-cut

beautiful actresses. They are fashion icons for many woman

diamonds – took 800 hours to make and was produced in 1951.

around the world and they represent glamour and style.’ More

Draped round the décolletage of the arguably less-regal Robbie

than this, the maison finds the spotlight an effective platform from

may be more of a turn off for buyers than a turn on.

which to appeal to buyers. ‘We get in touch with new potential

Of course, celebrities parading as the ultimate poster girls is

clients when a beautiful actress wears our stunning pieces,’

nothing new. It all began with the timeless Harry Winston. Look

explains Rossiello. ‘This happened for example last year with Cate

back to the Golden Age of cinema and Mr Winston was the very

Blanchett’s earrings at the Golden Globes. We think red carpets

first jeweller to loan diamonds to a star for the 1944 Academy

are a very interesting way to increase the brand awareness in the

Awards – Best Actress winner, Jennifer Jones. It was a move that

world and to show our collections.’

Lea Seydoux wearing Chopard earring and ring

Margot Robbie wearing Van Cleef & Arpels Zip necklace

Sandra Bullock wearing Harry Winston hairpiece

170 Claudette Colbert with â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;The Jonkerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;

Audrey Tautou wearing Chaumet earrings

Karolina Kurkova wearing Harry Winston earrings, bracelet and ring

Gwyneth Paltrow wearing Anna Hu earrings

Scarlett Johansson wearing Piaget earring

Karolina Kurkova wearing Harry Winston earrings, bracelet and ring Jessica Chastain wearing Piaget necklace

Behati Prinsloo wearing De Grisogono necklace

Nicole Kidman wearing Harry Winston earrings, bracelet and rings

Cate Blanchett wearing Tiffany & Co. necklace

172 VAN CLEEF & ARPELS, Zip necklace PIAGET, White gold and diamond Mediterranean Garden earrings

At the premier of her new film, Jupiter Ascending, Kunis could be seen as a radiant walking billboard for Gemfields hotly-anticipated arrival – Mozambican rubies – worn in ruby jewellery by Miiori. ‘Mila also made a series of major US talk show appearances to promote the film wearing jewellery set with Gemfields rubies and emeralds. This appearance generated global exposure for Gemfields Mozambican rubies across multiple media channels and markets,’ adds Sen. On the question of whether the doe-eyed actress can influence serious buyers, Sen is resolute. ‘Coloured gemstones have been celebrated throughout the ages and the increasing presence of gemstones on the red carpet – worn by highly influential global celebrities such as Mila Kunis and featured in fashion magazines – has positioned them before a wider consumer audience once again and in many cases, influences consumer buying trends.’ Indeed, sometimes it is the celebrity themselves who become collection was auctioned off in 2011 it fetched some $137 million.

appearance, but by the woman chosen to wear it – making the

When Gwyneth Paltrow won Best Actress in the 1998 Academy

choice of ambassador key. While Margot Robbie is renowned for

Awards, she took to the stage in that pink dress and, more

sexy, sassy roles – like Leonardo DiCaprio’s seductive mistress in

memorably still, a 40-carat Harry Winston diamond necklace. Not

Wolf of Wall Street – Geneva-based Piaget prefers that their pieces

only did Gwyneth’s father buy her the necklace, but Harry Winston

not make a one-off appearance on the red carpet, but rather form

sold several more the following week, proving the power of Paltrow.

a long-term relationship with a key star: they recently signed red-

But while some maisons believe such appearances become

head Jessica Chastain as Piaget’s international brand ambassador.

cemented in the minds of women the world over, others refuse

‘Renowned internationally thanks to international blockbusters,

to play the star-studded game. Mouawad – a jewellery house

she [Chastain] is a natural fit for the brand as Piaget is known

with a 125-year history and headquarters both in Geneva and

for its audacious designs and Jessica is audacious in choices

Dubai – are said to deal directly with stylists and managers rather

she made, from Madagascar to the Tree of Life,’ comments Mr.

than broker a deal with an actress’ talent agency. It’s a move

Jean-Marc Shammas, Piaget Brand Director Middle East & India.

that no doubt comes from bitter experience: in 2002, Mouawad

‘Charisma, allure and chic are Piaget’s most important consumer

hired supermodel Heidi Klum as its brand ambassador; blonde,

benefits. Jessica Chastain has been nominated several times by

beautiful and European, she made the perfect poster girl. Until,

influential fashion magazine (InStyle, Vogue, Vanity Fair…) within

that is, she struck a deal with McDonalds in Germany. As a

the top-dressed women in the movie industry. She is an inspiration

diamond company it’s hardly a desirable association. While the

for other women.’

likes of Amy Adams have since been seen wearing Mouawad

Gemfields Regional Marketing Director for Asia, Rupak Sen, agrees

– in her case, 92 carats at a value of $1million at the 2013

that a face that resonates with the maison’s market is key. ‘We

Oscars – the maison insists it will not pay stars for the pleasure

appointed Mila Kunis as Gemfields’ global brand ambassador

of wearing their pieces.

because she is a modern, dynamic woman who is very natural

Graff is similarly adamant. ‘Our clients love us for this, they feel

and knows her own mind, as well as being very beautiful. Her

we’re protecting their devotion to the brand,’ Henri Barguirdjian,

look works across many different markets – from the US to the

Graff’s chief executive for the Americas, told the UK’s Financial

Middle East and India – and we have found that she resonates

Times. He argues that while a young woman may identify herself

with customers globally.’

with a star and buy a similar piece or from an affordable line, Graff

Unlike its counterparts, the London-headquartered producer

clients’ approach is a totally different one. ‘A piece of jewellery

of coloured gem stones is primarily a supplier – which means

at our level is one-of-a-kind [They] want something that’s never

Kunis can wear pieces by other designers too, so long as they

been worn before.’ Off the red carpet then, Graff chooses to

utilise the company’s stones. But why hire a cheerleader when,

host the Green Room at the Screen Actors Guild Awards – last

for serious clients, the stones speak for themselves? ‘As a

month for the fourth consecutive year – giving brand exposure

champion of coloured gemstones, Gemfields is known for its

within the movie industry itself, and no doubt securing some

innovative marketing activities and has invested in educational

A-list buyers in the process.

and promotional campaigns targeted at consumers, trade and

Whether Robbie, Chastain or Kunis will have you reaching for your

retail partners, to further awareness and confidence in the growing

cheque book, only you can say. But what few jewellery houses

coloured gemstone sector,’ comments Sen. ‘Appointing a global

– nor their diamond-wearing clients – can deny, is the timeless

brand ambassador was an important milestone in the strategy for

allure of the awards season. From 1944 to 2015, it shows no sign

communicating these key messages to consumers.’

of retiring from the red carpet yet. Shine on.

Images courtesy of Getty Images and Corbis – Bettmann, Christopher Polk, Mark Davis, Michael Buckner

the client. Take Elizabeth Taylor – when her personal gemstone Perhaps then a piece’s appeal is not so affected by a red-carpet

Jennifer Lopez wearing Neil Lane earrings

Julianne Moore wearing Chopard earrings

Lupita Nâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;yongo wearing Chopard earrings

174

Tal k ing P o i nt

Kabuki

Beauty The beauty world is awash with references to one of the most magnificent continents on earth: Asia. Add a touch of its natureloving simplicity and exotic majesty to your beauty regime. By Natalie Trevis

Carolina Herrera spring/summer 2015

David Koma spring/summer 2015

Think of Asian beauty and images of dewy skin, crimson pouts and shimmering healthy hair spring instantly to mind. A romantic analysis, yes, and yet it is this mystically quixotic version of Asian beauty that captivates the fashion and beauty worlds and ensures an ongoing love affair with orientalism that ebbs and flows without ever really disappearing. From kimono silhouettes to obi belts and geta-style sandals, the markers of traditional Asian dress are consistently reinterpreted by designers, including Marni, Alexander McQueen and Antonio Berardi, who turn to these recognisable refrains as a refreshing departure from exhausted western fashion codes. The crossover is equally vital to the beauty world. Carolina Herrera is known for her elegant and worldly-wise designs. Always looking to the future (she deliberately avoids referencing past eras), her deep pink floral digital prints for spring/summer 15 were only heightened by the complementary slick mitsu-ori topknots that crowned each and every model. The clothes, origami folded and with few seams, spoke of Asia in every way, even down to the printed bloom of magnolias, a flower that has been cultivated in Asia as a symbol of purity since the seventh century. When paired with an orange-toned ruby lip and softly shimmering gold lids, the effect is 21st century samurai - a look that is surprisingly desirable and easily recreated for real life. A similar hairstyle ruled at Cushnie Et Ochs; a warrior-like ponytail pulled high and drawn into the nape of the neck half way down its length by a graphic black band. Sleek, strong and luxurious. Combined with a thick swipe of the blackest of eyeliners shading the entire eyelid, this is pure Asian decadence. It’s easy to see why we return to Far Eastern motifs time and time again.

Cushnie Et Ochs spring/summer 2015

‘Strong and structured eyeliner is one of my favourites,’ says Shin Desu, a Malaysian-born makeup artist [based in Dubai] who has added his creative flair to fashion weeks around the globe and whose brushes have alighted on some of most beautiful women to grace the big screen (Freida Pinto, Demi Moore, and Naomi Watts to name a few). ‘East and West, when they join together, are an interesting combination,’ he muses. Yet topknots and eyeliner are merely the crouching tigers to the hidden dragon of flawless dewy skin - the prize goal that is symbolic of Asian beauty. But just how do we achieve it? The enduring appeal of Asia when it comes to beauty is largely aesthetic we’re always willing to be seduced by the fresh promise of reinvention that comes with the arrival of any new beauty look – but it’s also down to makeup and skincare innovations, many of which stem from the Far East. Some skincare brands have tapped into the essence of Asian culture in a way that is endlessly appealing on a global scale, with products that are essential to pull off the tangerine-lipped sophistication seen on the runways of Antonio Berardi and the like. Shu Uemura has managed just such a feat. There can be few beauty lovers who don’t own a pair of the brand’s unsurpassed eyelash curlers or Skin Refining Cleansing Oil (and many of its products are top of the sales pile in their respective categories in China, Hong Kong, Japan, Korea and Taiwan according to a Beauté Research Sàrl report in 2011). Created in 1983 by renowned Japanese makeup artist Shu Uemura, the brand follows the philosophy of shu-ha-ri, which embraces a pioneering spirit that encourages

Cherry blossom photography by Mitsushi Okada/amanaimages/Corbis. Anotnio Beradi image courtesy of Gorunway.

176

Antonio Beradi spring/summer 2015

breaking with tradition to create an individual path. In a beauty world that at times feels fuelled by rampant commercialism, it isn’t hard to see why beauty products that come with a dose of ancient wisdom may be comforting to a 5

wider audience. That the products really work to achieve the Asian-inspired beauty notes we crave is an essential part of the line’s enduring allure. ‘For me one of my favourite makeup brands is Shu Uemura,’ Shin Desu tells us. ‘Their trends are cool, they use a lot of Asian inspiration to represent their products and their ingredients and textures are nice.’ Part of the charm of the brand, and others like it, is its uniquely Asian sensitivity towards beauty. Patience, attention to detail and respect for nature remain central to its ethos.

So far, so calming. 6

Other beauty brands have also long known the power of marrying age-old Asian philosophy with technical innovation. Alicia Yoon is one of the co-founders of Peach and Lily, a beauty e-commerce site (peachandlily.com) that brings high-quality beauty products from ‘beauty-forward Asia’ to the United States.

1. MAC, matte lipstick in La Vie En Rouge | 2. CLARISONIC, limited-edition Aria to mark the Chinese Year of the Goat | 3. SACHAJUAN, Finish Cream | 4. SHU UEMURA, Anti/Oxi Skin-Refining Anti-Dullness Cleansing Oil | 5. DIOR, blush in Cherry Glory | 6. SUKI, Exfoliate Foaming Body Cleanser | 7. LA PRARIE, Cellular Swiss Ice Crystal Eye Cream

‘It’s easy to see why this radiant, effortlessly chic look is catching on in the media and on the runway,’ she explains. ‘I do think, though, that as more products are exported from Korea to the rest of the world, this helps spread awareness of Asian-inspired beauty trends.’ The region’s demanding and skincare-savvy customers are quickly driving advancing product technology in an extremely competitive market. ‘All these innovations are centered around one priority: helping people achieve radiant and flawless skin,’ explains Alicia. ‘This dewy, impossibly fresh, no-makeup-makeup look is a trend in Korea. Beauty companies are creating products that focus on improving skin from the inside out, which has long been a focus historically, and makeup products that will bring out radiance instead of mattifying the skin.’ Indeed, one of the emerging beauty trends is cushion makeup, which draws out the dewiness of the skin rather than covering it with powdery formulas and will soon have us all embracing a little shine to achieve the gorgeous glow of Herrera’s girls. Ritual is a fundamental element too, as it is in many aspects of Asian culture, with Asian beauty regimes often including many more steps. The application of essences, serums, ampoules and face oils is standard. Even if our morning routines do not allow for quite so much pampering, ultimately we all desire the same effect: luminous skin. Asian products are ahead of the game when it comes to results and the world is taking note. Asian beauty movements are slowly moving away from jaded stereotypes that blindly follow Harajuku theatrics or mimic geisha tradition without flair or understanding. As Asian symbolism is repeated again and again in the form of modern minimalism in fashion and subtly evocative beauty trends, we are imbued with a sprinkling of the grace and wisdom of the region. The rising model army that includes superstars Liu Wen, Chiharu Okunugi and Soo Joo Park brings a particular brand of poise, grace and cool-girl magnetism to the runway too, that not only pioneers changes in beauty ideals but has us all wanting to emulate their beauty secrets. So pull your hair up into a city-slicker top-knot, apply a lightweight skin essence followed by a wide flick of black kohl and turn to Asia for your own little piece of Zen.

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B e a u ty F o c u s

Timeless

Tresses

Whether street style inspires the runway or vice versa, there’s plenty of hair inspiration in the fashion capitals during fashion month. We bring you the four timeless styles that will redefine your look for spring.

Ice Queen Fortune favours the brave and it doesn’t get much braver in the hairstyle stakes than a peroxide pixie style statement. Instantly fashion forward, this androgynous look is crying out to be paired with bold tailoring or Alexander Wang’s signature downtown urban separates. Maintaining a flawless colour is fundamental to keeping this look luxe and Oribe’s Masque for Beautiful Colour contains colour protecting UV filters that will ensure your colour remains whiter than white. The sky is the limit with this style. Whether slicked down and masculine or swept upwards for instant glamour, join Dutch beauty Eveline Rozing and shine your light fearlessly. 1. LINDA TOL | 2. JO MALONE, Lime Basil & Mandarin Conditioner | 3. SACHAJUAN, Spray Wax | 4. ORIBE at HARVEY NICHOLS, Masque for Beautiful Color

All street style photography by Valentina Frugiuele. Runway images courtesy of Gorunway.

2 4

Fringe Benefits Bangs are back. Join street style queen Miroslava Duma and add interest to long styles with a tapered fringe under which eyes peep out endearingly. Perfectly complementing the rise of the romantic bohemian trend presented by everyone from Valentino to Chloé, this hairstyle evokes a carefree spirit that is pure Brigitte Bardot. Style straight or with nonchalant messy waves; the key to this deliberately undone look is ensuring that hair is healthy from the inside out. Add an element of deep nourishing to your hair care routine with the Chronologiste range by Kérastase and for extra shine a little lightweight oil-based product will keep hair tangle free and luxuriously touchable. 1. MIROSLAVA DUMA | 2. HERRA HAIR CARE at HARVEY NICHOLS, Hair Perfume | 3. BUMBLE AND BUMBLE, Hairdresser’s Invisible Oil | 4. KÉRASTASE CHRONOLOGISTE, Revitalising Shampoo | 5. Felder Felder autumn/winter 2015

180

Power Pony Low slung and sleek, preferably with a Dolce & Gabbana-inspired centre parting, the ponytail is an enduringly effortless style that feels fresh as we step into the spring months. Follow Carolina Herrera’s latest iteration of her elegant model army and bind your pony with metallic strips of leather or simply wind a lock of your own hair around the top to conceal the join. Straight, shiny tresses are essential to this look. Run a small amount of Kiehl’s Silk Groom Serum down the length of your ponytail to keep it poker straight and mirror-bright all day long.

1. Sleek ponytail spotted on the streets of Paris | 2. OJON, Rare Blend Protecting Treatment | 3. NUXE, Rêve de Miel Gentle Shampoo | 4. KIEHL’S, Silk Groom Serum | 5. Carolina Herrera autumn/winter 2015

Alexa Chung

4 3

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B e a u ty I ns ider

Paris Je T’aime

From luxury facials to an array of relaxing massages, the Peninsula Spa plays host to a tranquil getaway. Removed from the streets of Paris it’s a calming retreat away from the charmingly chaotic city. Its walls hold history and heritage of the highest calibre.

Keeping its sophisticated opulent grandeur but with a

Formally known as the Majestic Hotel, The Peninsula Paris

modern appeal, the hotel offers an array of facilities with

(after four years of careful restoration) reopened its doors

the spa being the highlight. Its ice-blue pool is a tranquil

last year; we travelled to the City of Light to dip our toes

escape from the bustling cobbled streets of Paris. From a

in its calming and regal spa.

City Detox to a Heaven and Earth, the spa keeps the needs

Impressively it remains true to its original self. From the

of its luxury traveller in mind with facials, massages and

marble to mosaics to mouldings, its beauty has remained

treatments in abundance. It’s tonal wood furnishings and

authentic. Greeted by cream and gold décor in the lobby

muted palette is both instantly calming for anyone, any day.

and 800 falling crystal leaves by Czech workshop Lasvit,

And after some rest and relaxation, dining-in is a must-try

it’s Parisian perfection. It was during the Roaring Twenties

option as chef Jean-Edern Hurstel - who has subsequently

that an infamous meeting of creative minds between

run major operations in the Middle East – caters to every

Picasso, Joyce and Proust occurred in the hotel - and

palette. It’s a little taste of Paris and it’s international

we can see why.

dishes, the Parisian way.

The Edita Effect

She’s walked for some of the biggest brands from Balenciaga to Victoria’s Secret, been photographed by the world’s best and played Coco Chanel for fashion king, Karl Lagerfeld. As the new face of Roberto Cavalli’s perfume Paradiso, we meet Lithuanianborn model Edita Vilkevičiūtė.

184

B o dy S ec r ets

Today, lush green grass surrounds our feet as we discuss everything from the Middle East’s love for the Kardashian family to the constant rays of glorious sunshine that hit the sandfilled shores of Dubai. Paradisiacal palm trees and tropically coloured fruit drinks flow: we’re in Cavalli’s vision of paradise. Face-to-face, Edita’s own natural beauty is captivating. With marine blue eyes, razor-sharp cheekbones and a body so lean she’d easily rival any stage worthy ballerina. In the Paradiso campaign (shot by Mario Sorrenti) and TV advert (filmed in the Mediterranean by Jonas Åkerlund) Edita’s physique amplifies why she once walked for Victoria’s Secret. ‘To begin with I have a very good metabolism. I’m so lucky because I don’t have to do crazy things to keep up or to keep fit. In general, I just like to eat healthily. Yes, From the start of our conversation, one thing

every now and then I have a burger or steak,

becomes instantly clear: everyone’s own idea of

but I like to eat healthy. I also like to do sports

paradise can differ greatly. ‘It was actually the

and I like to go to the gym. I’m really into kite

most beautiful day of the year … In Manhattan

surfing,’ she tells me. Travelling to Mykonos in

it was so beautiful. I took my dog out for half of

the Greek Islands once a year, Edita escapes

the day and we were running in the street and

to kite surf for a month. Living day-to-day in

through the snow. The snowflakes were that big

the City That Never Sleeps, staying indoors for

[she gestures the size of a few centimetres]. At

fitness is more of a readily available option. ‘I’ve

night you could go out and walk in the middle of

just started doing Yoga. I do it for stretching

the street - there were no cars. It was amazing.

my hips and my back. When I go my teacher

It was really beautiful.’ Edita tells me. The Juno

does different stretches with me. Then I go to

Blizzard (or ‘snowmaggedon’) of 2015 may have

the gym where I work with weights and a few

affected every town in the USA, grinding them

machines - nothing complicated. It’s all for

to a halt, but Edita could only see its ice-laced

toning, and to build up my cardio. I don’t want

beauty covering the streets of New York City.

to build muscle’, she says firmly.

Model Edita Vilkeviciute with Roberto Cavalli Paradiso perfume.

With over ten years experience in the modelling

Armani and Yves Saint Laurent cosmetics (to

industry, Edita started her career in 2006 after

name but a few). And now: Robert Cavalli’s

winning a modelling competition in her native

latest fragrance. ‘It wasn’t a place I thought

hometown of Kaunas.

of, but the way it made me feel,’ Edita says

‘I was really, really young when I started.

describing her first spritz. ‘I instantly wanted to

Now I’ve travelled so much and met so many

smell it again. When I put it on I know it’s the

people. I think I’m still the same person, but

right perfume. You know when you sometimes

I’ve learnt a lot,’ Edita tells me after discussing

put on a perfume and it doesn’t suit you? You

her rising career throughout the years. After

just want to wash it off. But with this one I’m

winning the competition, it was thanks to

almost addicted to it. It’s not too heavy at all.’

casting agent Ashley Brokaw that she then

I try a little spray and smell, and in agreement

walked for Balenciaga, and the rest is history.

I smile too. Encased in a small glass bottle the

From Paris to London to New York City,

colour of gold is instantly illuminated. A perfect

Edita secured campaigns with Calvin Klein

scent for any woman and her own vision of

(photographed by Steven Meisel), Emporio

paradise – wherever that may be.

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CO L OUR F O C US

PALETTE

Embrace your inner artist and pick up a paintbrush for this season’s beauty shades.

EMPORIO ARMANI

PASTEL

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FELDER FELDER

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SUNSHINE STATE Yellow makes a statement on the runway and off. Update your dressing table and beauty look with the brightest colour on an artistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s palette and let summer enter your world. Fresh fragrances in sunshine colours will leave you on a high note. Clockwise from top: NUXE, Prodigieux Le Parfum | CHANEL, Misia | DIOR, Sunwashed | VERSACE, Yellow Diamond Intense

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190

M o j eh HEA LTH

The

Spirituality Shift Mindfulness is a form of meditation that is being embraced by everyone from celebrities to CEOs. But what is it? Is it for you? And does it actually work?

By Oliver Robinson

modes of spirituality into the globalised community. This actually began early last century, and peaked in the 1960s and ’70s – particularly after The Beatles went to India and learned transcendental meditation, infusing their music with elements of Eastern wisdom.’ ‘It is around this time that yoga also became mainstream in the West,’ continues Watt. ‘The most recent wave of popularity of mindfulness and meditation, however, comes through the work of Jon Kabat-Zinn, founder and director of the Centre for Mindfulness in Medicine at the University of Massachusetts Medical School. Kabat-Zinn isolated particular meditation practices from their Buddhist roots and introduced this secular form of spiritual practice into his clinic. The benefits experienced by his patients, in terms of physical and mental health, recovery rates and general wellbeing, made medical history and there has been no looking back. Doctors now often ‘prescribe’ a course of meditation rather than medication.’ Watt also suggests that the media has had much to do with the spread of Eastern ideas into Western culture – just as it has Western ideas into Eastern culture. She says: ‘Words

For the uninitiated, mindfulness might sound like an abstract

such as ‘mantra’ ‘avatar’ and ‘guru’, now have a place in

adjective used to describe an abstract concept. But in

everyday vocabulary, whereas only a decade or two ago they

spite of the phrase’s apparent vagueness, mindfulness has

belonged to a discourse used only by a small spiritual elite.’

become the wellbeing buzzword of recent times. Everywhere

Meanwhile, Abeer Ayash, mind, body, and energy practitioner

we turn in our search for a happier, healthier existence – the

at The Third Eye in Dubai, attributes the spirituality shift to

latest yoga app (yes, they really do exist), self-help books,

more cosmic influences.

or the obligatory ‘new year, new you’ magazine article –

‘This is the new Age of Aquarius,’ she says. ‘It is the time

appears to be extolling the virtues of mindfulness meditation.

[for] the values of love, brotherhood, unity, integration and

Yes, mindfulness is a thing. A big thing. So big, in fact, it’s

integrity to emerge. Everything with previous Piscean age

not only been embraced by our time-rich celebrity overlords,

values [will be] exposed and taken down – this includes

but by members of the British Parliament (there is, in all

everything from corporations to personal relationships.

seriousness, a Mindfulness All-Party Parliamentary Group),

This change has been noticed [on a global scale], starting

the US military and HR departments of corporate cool kids

with the financial crisis, which exposed private and public

such as Google, Facebook, Microsoft, et al, as well as

institutions, as well as the fragility and illusion of the money

regular mindfulness meditations sessions held in the Eastern

matrix. Anything that does not serve the true essence and

Mangroves here in the UAE. There’s even a mindfulness

value of man is coming to an end.’

opera, Lost in Thought, which will be staged in London later

While Ayash’s interpretation of our newfound spirituality

this year (expect silence, yoga, the consumption of garden-

might not satisfy the more cynical amongst us, she does

loads of vegan food and ‘an inner journey of mindfulness’).

touch upon a reoccurring theme – the current disillusionment

Although mindfulness is a relatively new phenomenon (in

with financial institutions, material wealth and gain.

that it’s been enjoying the attention of the world’s lifestyle

‘Consumerism has reached a peak,’ agrees Soniyaa Kiran

media for the past few months), it has been ‘a thing’ for

Punjabi, founder and CEO of Illuminations Dubai. ‘Many

quite some time. Jon Kabat-Zinn, regarded by many to be

individuals are no longer struggling with survival, yet despite

the father of mindfulness, has spent much of his life’s work

achieving their material aspirations, they are still left feeling

adapting and modernising Buddhist teachings to create

discontented and unhappy.’

his Stress Reduction and Relaxation Programme, which

‘This calls for a shift where one looks within for self-

combines mindfulness meditation, body awareness and

introspection and a deeper understanding of who they

yoga. Yet only recently has mindfulness gone mainstream.

are, why they are here and what is their purpose in life.

‘There certainly seems to be a new wave of enthusiasm

This does not call for a complete redirection, but more

for mindfulness and the idea of ‘living in the moment’,’

of a balance between the internal and external,’ Punjabi

notes Esther Watt, personal development consultant for

continues. ‘In today’s fast-paced society, we become deeply

LifeWorks Dubai. ‘One factor is the permeation of eastern

entangled in the trivialities of daily life and often forget to

In The Land of Deconstruction, photographed by Raphael Delorme & Thiernosy, MOJEH issue 9

192 In The Land of Deconstruction, photographed by Raphael Delorme & Thiernosy, MOJEH issue 9

notice the negative patterns we form in order to deal with the ever-increasing stress. When this stress has reached its peak levels, it tends to seep into every area of life – health, relationships. ‘

By all accounts, mindfulness meditation is a very personal lifestyle choice, which is beneficial to those who commit to it.

While there is something to be said for each of the reasons attributed to the newfound popularity of mindfulness, you’d be forgiven for wondering what exactly mindfulness is, and how it’s beneficial to our everyday lives.

to adopt a healthy diet, exercise, quit smoking and cut

‘Mindfulness is a powerful meditation practice, which

down on their drinking.’

involves a state of active, open attention to the present

Spicer theorises that this obsession with health and

moment by connecting with one’s inner self to experience

happiness often backfires – obsession with individual

peace and clarity that exists within us,’ says Punjabi.

wellness only serves to make some people more anxious,

‘Meditation is not about stopping your mind from thinking.

guilty, depressed and ultimately unhealthy, both physically

It simply increases your awareness about your thoughts and

and mentally: ‘The pressure to maximise our wellness can

feelings and allows you to identify obstacles in your life.’

make us feel worse. We have started to think that a person

Punjabi is quick to cite the medical benefits of mindfulness

who is healthy and happy is a morally good person while

meditation: A study conducted by the University of California

people who are unhealthy and unhappy are moral failures.’

at Los Angeles and Nobel Prize winner Elizabeth Blackburn

Of course, Spicer and Cederström aren’t attacking the

found that 12 minutes of daily yoga meditation for eight

concept of mindfulness, rather the way in which it has

weeks increased telomerase activity by 43 per cent,

been hijacked by the corporate machine. By all accounts,

suggesting an improvement in stress-induced ageing.

mindfulness meditation is a very personal lifestyle choice,

Furthermore, John Denninger, a psychiatrist at Harvard

which is beneficial to those who commit to it. But isn’t this

Medical School, who is leading a study on how the ancient

the problem? The fact that many of us just don’t have the

practices of mindfulness and meditation affect genes and

time in between emails, meetings, exercise and socialising

brain activity in the chronically stressed.

to meditate?

‘There is a true biological effect,’ said Denninger in his

Not at all, says Punjabi: ‘If you have time to shower, brush

report. ‘The kinds of things that happen when you meditate

your teeth and log onto the Internet, surely you can spare

do have effects throughout the body, not just in the brain.’

a few minutes for your overall wellbeing?’

Those with a predilection for statistics might also be

Well, quite.

interested to know that that students at Visitacion Valley

Aashi Saqib, mind, body and energy practitioner at Third

Middle School in San Francisco, USA, meditate for 15

Eye, elaborates further: ‘My advice would be to choose what

minutes everyday. This ‘quiet time’ has purportedly

resonates with you the most and one that you truly enjoy

decreased suspensions by 79 per cent, while attendance

doing – be it dancing, guided mediations, reciting mantras

and academic performance has increased.

or positive affirmations. It is all about shifting your focus

NICE (National Institute for Clinical Excellence) has endorsed

inwards and quieting your mind. This will then allow you

mindfulness as an effective treatment for reoccurring

to gain an understanding of who you truly are by helping

depression, after studies showing that the practice reduces

you become aware of your true potential and talent. In

the recurrence rate by 40 to 50 per cent over the course of

my opinion embracing one’s talent is the biggest route to

a year. Similarly, 30 per cent of British general practitioners

enlightenment.’

refer patients suffering from mild psychological issues to

‘Follow your heart,’ concludes Ayash. ‘Take time during

mindfulness-based treatment.

the day for silence, at least 10 minutes. Sit in silence and

Of course, mindfulness isn’t without its critics – especially

ask: ‘What am I really feeling now, why am I feeling it, and

in the context of the workplace.

is this really my feeling or thought?’ When this exercise is

André Spicer of Cass Business School and Carl Cederström

conducted with transparency and truth, you will see how

of Cardiff University, co-authors of the Wellness Syndrome,

you were previously accepting external fears and anxieties

argue that mindfulness and the modern idea of wellness

as yours when they were not. So, by calming the mind, you

stands contrary to deep thinking, and the relentless pursuit

will find truth, peace and grounding.’

of wellness leads to passive nihilism.

Reading between the lines, it seem that mindfulness is a

‘For years, governments have attempted to control how

wholly personal experience and perhaps something that is

much people eat and drink, whether we smoke and exercise,

best avoided when packaged and presented in a corporate

and how happy we feel,’ says Spicer. ‘More recently, big

format. After all, if you need to meditate with your co-

companies have got in on the act as well. They encourage

workers in order to deal with your job, then maybe it’s time

employees to sign up to wellness plans which require them

to seek alternative (happier) employment.

194

Wo ma n o f S ty le

Gems of Wisdom Roberta Calarese is a modern day mogul who combines her roles as jewellery designer for Kanzi, Chief Legal Officer at Majid Al Futtaim and mother with cool composure. We meet Roberta in her luscious garden to talk about how she discovered her creative passion.

Do you feel that your jewellery represents who you are to some extent? I’m a really strong woman and really opinionated. I do a lot of work in mentoring younger women, really acting as a role model. My jewellery is really an extension of that. I like people that express their opinions and their ideas and I like people that are not afraid to be different, to say this is what I stand for, this is who I am. Always in life, just have the capacity

How and why did you decide to start pursuing a

to express yourself and express your thoughts. My

more creative role as a jewellery designer?

jewellery pieces are really distinctive and don’t really

About three years ago I decided that there was no

follow anybody’s trends; it’s just something that has

colour in my life. I felt the need for colour. You know

good taste and it’s elegant, it’s sophisticated. I like

everything I do, we read documents, we write laws

things that look nice but at the same time have a

but everything is in black and white so I thought

story to tell and bring out people’s personalities.

‘what do I have great passion for?’ And I thought jewellery: I love jewellery and I’m going to create

Today we’ve met in your stunning garden, does

jewellery that is colourful and bold and that allows

the great outdoors and nature inspire your

women to express themselves.

collections?

Absolutely. For example, I don’t really like

What inspires you to design and who is the

commercially cut stones, so I always buy stones

woman that you are designing for?

that I like and they are the most random shapes

You’re not going to like this but it’s really for myself!

and colours. We did some pieces that had rutile

I always say even if nobody bought my jewellery, I

quartz and prehnite, which is really rare in nature

can wear all my jewellery! I really design for strong

- these are unique pieces. I don’t like really perfect

women. Strong, confident women that are not afraid

stones because I like stones that tell a story and I

to make a statement. So it is really not for the timid,

like stones that have character. Sometimes when

very delicate woman that prefers to fade into the

you are so perfectly cut and so transparent and you

background. It’s really more about the courageous,

have such great luminosity you are just ‘perfect’

bold, confident woman that says ‘here I am!’.

and sometimes beauty is not in perfection. You’ve said that you would like to be a role model Could you tell us a bit about the colour in your

for other women. What is it that you would like

collection, what draws you towards particular

to impart?

stones?

The message is that you never have to measure

I really like almost all stones. I love emeralds, I

yourself against men as a woman. You just measure

love rubies, I love tanzanite, I do a lot of work with

yourself for who you are. People in the work

tanzanite. I like tourmaline. So, it’s really the colour,

environment always said that when you work with

I like vibrant colours.

men you have to act as a man. I say act as yourself, be yourself. In the end you just can be the best that

Does your Italian heritage influence your designs at all?

KANZI, earrings with pink sapphires and diamonds

Absolutely. I think it influences design in taste. Italians have great taste, they really do set the standards for what is elegant, what is fashion, what is style, you know? In that I always like these themes to run through it. Fashion sometimes can be really ugly, I’m sorry to say that! But what I try to do is always something that is always wearable

Roberta Calarese in her garden sanctuary

and very elegant at the same time. What was the first big moment for Kanzi? When I presented the collection to Harvey Nichols, it was actually to Al Tayer at the time and it was a very nice lady called Mona Haddad and she loved the jewellery! It was interesting because she believed in it and there were other people at the time who were a little bit more skeptical and I know today why, because maybe they were into more traditional jewellery and the classical pieces. Sometimes you need one person to believe in you and then the journey begins. I didn’t really know it was going to be a big success, I just did what made me happy. What is the design philosophy at Kanzi? I really design bespoke jewellery. Some pieces are unique because the stones can never be repeated and so I just design what I feel like designing. I did it for passion really and purely the desire to do something to satisfy my own need for colour and creativity, I didn’t do it for anybody else. The fact that is successful and that it has had so much media attention – just now we were selected for the luxury lifestyle awards with PWC in London – is great but these things don’t really drive me. I am driven by a desire to do things that I enjoy doing. My clients wear the jewellery because they know that nobody else will have that piece. A lot of the Kanzi lines, Les Exclusives, are very few pieces.

KANZI, ring in 18kt white gold and white diamonds with blue tanzanite cabochons and green emeralds

196

KANZI, 18kt rose gold ring with orange azotic topaz and brown diamonds

If I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t use the time to do all the things that I can do, when I can do them, then I feel I am going to miss out.

you can be, respect who you are. Measure yourself

KANZI, 18kt rose gold earrings with emeralds, amethyst and diamonds

for who you are irrespective of gender. Women have a lot of value to add to society, they are bright thinkers, they are empathic. We’re more complex, more intuitive, multi-tasking…we look at things from so many different perspectives. There is a lot of potential in the young generation they just need a little bit of coaching, inspiration and support to continue the path. How important is it to you to give back, and are there any charities that have a special place in your heart? I do a lot of work with charities for children and orphanages around the world. I sponsor children for education purposes in different countries. Kids have a special place for me, I feel they do deserve the right to have access to things that make their lives better. KANZI, earrings with morganite cabochon drops, aquamarine and pink tourmaline, moonstones and diamonds

What’s your secret to achieving balance between your many different roles in life? I can’t really say that there is a secret. Most of the time I feel like I am in a manic state! You know, when Kanzi jewellery is exclusively available at Harvey Nichols.

my kids tell me that I have to attend something that hasn’t been planned in advance, or they need an outfit, the castle just crumbles! It’s like a castle of cards, my life. But I always think, one day I’ll be dead. If I don’t use the time to do all the things that I can do, when I can do them, then I feel I am going to miss out. Do you see yourself as a role model for the younger generations too? I’m happy to be a role model for my kids and to shape the future of the UAE, for them really. I don’t need to do it for myself, it’s more for them and to leave a legacy for them. I am an Italian woman in an Emirati society (and I am very well known in the Emirati society through my work and my

you have to have a bigger picture. If you just get

professionalism and what I’ve accomplished), so

taken here and there by little things it doesn’t work

I want them also to have a legacy of who I am. I

in the long term so you have to have a big picture

raise my kids in between two cultures and you really

of where you are going. Also, any obstacle that

have to understand and have a sense of identity.

you face is only a challenge to make you stronger.

They are Emiratis but they all speak fluent Italian, they spend all their summers in Italy and that’s really

What is the next thing on your agenda for the

important to me.

rest of the year? I’m working on a project with two of my very close

What principles are most important for you to

friends, they are the daughters of a very large Emirati

pass on to your children?

group, and we are going to be doing a retail concept

To be open minded. Not to judge people. I like

for the home, which is very creative. The architects

to think that everyone has the right to be as they

from Italy have designed the concept for us and we

want to be.

have selected all the brands but it is really super modern, edgy, contemporary homeware, which

What is the most important piece of advice you

is excellent quality and very affordable. There is a

have ever been given?

gap in the market. We are all out there looking for

Don’t sweat the small things. There are two mottos

beautiful tablecloths or beautiful cutlery or glasses

that I really love. The first is, set your course by the

which is not the Baccarat of the world but I also

lights of the stars above and not by the lights of the

don’t buy Ikea. So that’s what we’re working on

passing ships. I always do that because in the end

and that is a really big project for 2015.

198

A rt is t in R es i de nce

The Scenic Route

Artist Pippa Cunningham takes us into her world of brightly coloured vistas and fluid figures that are just as likely to be inspired by the Cote Dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Azur as a backstage moment at Christian Dior. Bringing the worlds of fashion and art together, her paintings have adorned accessories for Louis Vuitton and beyond.

Artist Pippa Cunningham

Did you always know that you wanted to be an artist or was there a defining moment when you discovered it was what you wanted to do? I studied textiles at the Royal College of Art in London and spent a lot of my time printing one-off scarves, I think then I started to really become interested in painting. How would you describe your artistic style and has it changed over time? I would say that it has developed, I am not in such a rush with it, I look more and take my time! Where do you find inspiration for your artwork? Travel is my main inspiration, different light and colour. Also, movement - I did a series of paintings at the Lido in Paris and the Haute Couture shows, I like the challenge of capturing speeding people. Are there other artists or creatives (whether historic or current) that inspire you and how? David Hockneyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s work I love so much, he is amazing, his drawing is so sensitive and his colour joyous. I used to go the Dior fashion shows when John Galliano was the creative director there, my brother, Sean Cunnugham, is a fashion photographer and Crocodile and Bird; Miami Zoo

he would sometimes sneak me in so I could draw backstage, to me they were always the stand out shows, visually so exciting. Could you please tell us a bit about your process. How do you choose a medium, where is your favourite place to work? When I am working outside I work with Gouache and paper, because I like the speed it dries, the quickness of it, it has a high pigment content so the colour is really pure and bright. My favourite places to paint are often being high up, looking down on an incredible view. Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve collaborated with Louis Vuitton on two collections in the past (Resort 2008 and the Louis Vuitton Ailleurs collection in 2011), as well as Marc Jacobs (spring/summer 2009), how did those projects come about and what did they mean to you?

200

Miami South Beach view from Shore Hotel

I worked on prints and images for a cruise collection with Louis Vuitton which then led into other work for them. I really enjoy working with them because they are so creative, its always very fun and exciting. What was the most rewarding part of your experience of collaborating with these brands and why? Seeing your images made into such beautiful quality products is amazing. Makeup Backstage at Dior

Is there a different process to go through as an artist when creating a piece destined for a handbag or textile rather than a canvas and, if so, how is it different? I do think about the shapes that the images are going on, but I also keep it at the back of my head so I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t become too rigid with it. We are seeing many successful collaborations between artists and luxury fashion houses of late, why do you think the two work so well together? Fashion is a dynamic creative conduit which is maybe more accessible than Fine Art. Fashion benefits from creative input from many directions and artistic collaboration has been successful since Schiaparelli in the 1930s. I think the boundaries of different disciplines are crossing over more and more. What do you think is the current relationship between art and fashion, does one influence the other? There is a very strong link between fashion and art, with museums showing retrospectives and fashion companies showing art. I think some fashion designers are artists but agree with the sentiment of Karl Lagerfeld that art is art and fashion is fashion. If you could collaborate with another fashion line in the future, which one would it be and why? I really enjoy working with fashion, the pace of the process is exciting. It gives you a great buzz. I would love to do a project with Dolce & Gabbana. What has been a highlight in your career to date and why? It was brilliant to see my paintings on the big handbags in the Louis Vuitton store on Bond Street. What does the rest of 2015 hold for you? I am going on a painting trip in the Italian Riviera in a few weeks and Sicily later, which I am very excited about.

All images courtesy of Pippa Cunningham

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tal k ing p o i nt

SOUL BLAZING:

the great success of its debut. Not to be

Dubai Nouveau

outdone, Sharjah was nominated UNESCO’s Islamic Cultural Capital of the Arab world 2014 and its wealth of galleries and cultural events have earned it the sobriquet the

Dubai’s cultural engine is revved up and going full speed ahead. The city that rose from the sands is an apt reminder that anything is possible.

‘funkiest’ centre for contemporary art. And

By Mehrnoush Shafiei

cultural currents are sweeping the region.

of course, Abu Dhabi, host to branches of the Louvre and Guggenheim, has become a magnet for connoisseurs and collectors alike. Needless to say, the list could go on:

Dubai. The name alone is often synonymous

To Dubai’s northwest is Kuwait—once a

DUBAI’S DRESSED DOWN

with the stigma of extreme wealth and giddy

hub of avant-garde art in the Gulf—now

As the cultural ecosystem of the entire region

excess. With its marked lack of urban

experiencing a significant revival of the

grows, exchanges between different hubs

grittiness, the charge that Dubai has ‘no

local arts scene. The recent opening of

become more and more important. Punching

soul’ is a common refrain from naysayers.

‘Art Space,’ a community centre and cafe

well above its weight is Dubai, indisputably

But this sort of knee-jerk criticism overlooks

dedicated to young artists is just the latest

host to the largest cultural scene in the region.

the fact that over the course of the past ten

in a string of initiatives dedicated to cultural

Its rapid-fire development is without parallel,

years, Dubai has been not-so-quietly swelling

development. Also new this year is ‘Kuwait

fuelling countless articles which catalogue the

with cultural aspiration. And it appears its

Rising,’ an alternative Arab music festival

meteoric rise of the city as a hub of creativity,

dynamism is contagious, with neighbouring

that has created a buzz among the hipster

art and design. Now more than ever before,

regions giving the city a run for its money.

youth. Over in the KSA, the contemporary

the city is in the throes of great change and

You don’t have to look very far to sense

cultural scene has had new life infused into

achievement. Art Dubai, which first began

that the appetite for cultural consumption

it, thanks to the Saudi Design week which

in 2006, witnessed record attendance this

is on the rise all over the Middle East.

will be entering its second year, building on

year. People also came out in droves for

Design Days Dubai and the Gulf Film Festival.

STREET CREDIT

calligrafitti artist, eL Seed, who works his

While all this is worthy of praise, if you simply

The city is now making a greater effort to

magic on buildings and public arenas with his

scratch beyond the glossy veneer of the city,

look outwards. Brand Dubai, a part of the

ability to stir together elements of traditional

you will discover a vibrant alternative scene,

Government of Dubai Media Office, is a

Arabic calligraphy and modern graffiti. Life

one with an indie-bohemian sensibility that

clear manifestation of a concerted effort to

and art align closely for eL Seed. Calling

is grittier, more accessible to the masses

funnel capital from an exceptionally booming

Dubai home, he refers to it as ‘one of the

and eclectic in its tastes. Take Art Nights for

economy to support cultural initiatives.

only places in the Middle East where the

instance: featuring exhibitions, music, film

According to Noora Al Abbar, director of

street art scene is discrete.’ According to the

screenings and live installations, the event is

communications and innovations, the wheels

artist, what attracts him to this sort of art form

completely free (even transportation to get to

are in motion to cover building all across

is the fact that it has democratizing qualities

the event is provided free of charge through

the city with commissioned art work. In

because everyone can access it and engage

partnerships with various sponsors.) Hosted

a similar vein, the Dubai Culture and Arts

with it in his or her own way.

at the DIFC Gate Village for art enthusiasts, it

Authority recently gave a boost to street art

Similar ideas of the importance of participatory

brings together all generations and appeals

with the ‘Rehlatna’ initiative which achieved

art can be found in other parts of the region. In

to people with a wide diversity of tastes.

the Guinness World Record for longest graffiti

Lebanon, a group of young people have come

Check out Sole DXB, a festival celebrating

wall. Now serving as an open air museum,

together to paint the town. ‘We wanted to

street culture, sneakers, live bands, art

various artists from all over the world can

transform art into something that could bring

and sport which takes place in the city’s

make contributions—an inclusive gesture that

the community together,’ says Lana Chucri,

creative nerve of Al Quoz. The outdoor

speaks to the drive for non-elite, participatory

one of the co-founders of Dihzahyners, a

street party features skateboards, pick-up

art. ‘This place serves as a place of quiet

group of budding design students who came

basketball games, hip-hoppers and break

contemplation and thought but also brings

together and painted the Daraj el-Beera stairs

dancer B-boys spinning on the ground

the community together—through art we are

in the Beirut neighbourhood of Mar Mikhael.

as well as aerosol artists—the common

seeing a real civic engagement,’ says Deena

The newly reformed stairs, a kaleidoscopic

denominator being that they all do their

Rafeh, an art student at NYUAD.

of colours in geometric shapes, were recently

thing in sneakers. If you are looking for

Art outside the confines of a traditional gallery

singled out by Vogue magazine as among

laid-back Dubai, this will appeal to you.

abounds in Dubai thanks to French-Tunisian

the nine most creative staircases around the

204

SHOW ME THE MONEY That said, just a few complimentary words

Expats also come onto the scene with fresh eyes for Arab culture— fascination with Arabic calligraphy, Islamic architecture, poetry and these ancient traditions take on new energy.

about Dubai can put naysayers into hyper drive. Some turn their noses at what they see as some sort of cultural ventriloquism, an inability to create without defaulting to pastiche. Why is this? The disquiet perhaps stems from the inescapable tension between commerce and culture—a bias that positions

world. It all began with a simple click of a

philosophers, painters, designers. And when

capital as somehow negating culture.

‘Like’ on Facebook. ‘I saw this really inspiring

you think about it, the comparison between

And while some critics find it easy to deride

picture of an artist painting stairs in Germany

both places isn’t all that gratuitous. For

Dubai’s wealth, it’s quite rare to witness the

and I thought that we should do it here,’

one thing, the two cities share the ability to

same sort of contempt heaped onto the

says Chucri. ‘We knew that we could make

thrive on cultural internationalism. Dubai is,

Florence of yesteryear where, in a parallel

a difference—by adding some art we could

in fact, one of the most multicultural cities

manner, excess grandiosity drove the cultural

add energy to our city.’ And the feedback

in the world. With roughly 160 nationalities

development of the moment. In Florence,

has been overwhelmingly positive. ‘Our goal

represented, 90% of the entire population is

rival guilds constantly strove to outdo each

isn’t about painting stairs for the sake of it,’

non-Emiratis. Expats are an essential part

other with the extravagance of their artistic

the budding designer explains. ‘Our visual

of the city’s DNA. Bringing a diverse flavour

commissions—points of pride and public

surrounds affect our moods and behaviour—

to the region’s already rich and long history,

displays of good taste. A certain mentality

we want to infuse some happiness in our city.’

the various residents from all over the world

of ‘keeping up with the Benjamins’ became

have helped instigate the region’s creative

almost institutionalized. Under the leadership

A RENAISSANCE STORY

juices and add to its already rich heritage.

of the billionaire Medici family, Florence was

For some, there are comparisons to be

Expats also come onto the scene with fresh

transformed into a city with a cultivated desire

made between modern-day Dubai and 15th

eyes for Arab culture—fascination with Arabic

for unique artworks in both religious and civic

century Florence which gave birth to the

calligraphy, Islamic architecture, poetry and

flavours, with a heightened respect for the

renaissance with its buoying of architects,

these ancient traditions take on new energy.

artist process and an interest in art for art’s

Photography by Borna Ahadi

sake. Florence’s booming merchant trade

serious art collectors from all over the world

have to be comfortable critiquing. In fact,

(much of it coincidentally with the Muslim

are now paying attention to this region, this

the very definition of a connoisseur connotes

east) is what fuelled the great cultural

is amazing,’ Rahbar says.

the ability to make distinctions between very

achievements of this period. Without that

‘Culture is more than just sensory pleasure,

similar things.

level of wealth, Renaissance culture would

cultural commentary is an important,

‘During the early years in Dubai, any sort of

not have had the influence it did on the rest

and often overlooked, element of what is

cultural initiative was championed because

of Europe. In many ways, the same sort of

happening in Dubai,’ she explains. ‘Since

we had so few, but now the novelty has

pattern holds true for Dubai, with wealthy

we opened ten years ago, we are seeing a

worn off and people are becoming more

families patronizing much of the arts and

major shift in the tastes of our collectors—

empowered to develop a personal taste and

supporting artists all across the Middle East

with greater exposure and a greater inventory

even take a critical approach,’ she says.

who otherwise would not be able to sustain

to choose from, tastes are becoming

themselves. For Florence, it meant the

increasingly sophisticated.’

LOOKING AHEAD

spawn of a new generation of connoisseurs

In other words, cultural consumption has

It’s been said that investing in the culture

and critics, as well as the cultivation of an

gone from passive to active, with participants

of a city will reward you with compound

engaged citizenry (at least for specific class

engaging in cultural discourse, rather than

interest. The question of what is at stake

of society). There was a flourishing of civic

being mere spectators. ‘While we still don’t

with these rising tides and what this means

humanism and the concept of an ‘active life.’

have a robust cultural commentary subclass,

for the long-term forecast of the region is

we are definitely heading in that direction;

one that invites much speculation. As the

THUMBS UP, THUMBS DOWN

we want people to engage with art in critical

envelope is pushed in Dubai, the emerging

You can’t have connoisseurs without critics,

ways and not just take it for granted.’ Again,

trends indicate that the appetite for alternative

according to Sunny Rahbar of The Third Line,

similar to developments in historic Florence,

modes of cultural consumption exist and

one of the oldest galleries in the UAE. Rahbar

we are now seeing the seeds of a refinement

has only been whetted. As these trends

and others who are in the thick of the art

of people’s taste—collectors are developing

grow they will perhaps usher in new ways of

world will admit that Dubai’s star is rising

a vocabulary of how to talk about art and

thinking about art, alternative lifestyles and

and that it is a hotspot for promoting Arab

culture, how to debate the merits of one

an appreciation for the possibilities of new

artists. ‘Around 100 galleries have opened

work against another. Rahbar brings to light

perspectives. After all, that is what culture

in the UAE in the past ten years, the world’s

the fact that to truly be a connoisseur, you

is all about, isn’t it?

206

M o j eh B OOKS

Reading Between the lines In an effort to encourage readers to pick up books written by women, writer and illustrator Joanna Walsh started the #ReadWomen2014 hashtag last year. With the greatest of intentions for 2015, weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve put together some of our literary picks for your year ahead.

14 year-old goth-curious Johanna Morrigan lives in a council house in Wolverhampton filled with siblings falling over each other like puppies, a world-weary mother and a caricature of a musician father who sees success disappear around every elusive corner. Desperate to find a way out, Johanna falls into a hedonistic life as a music journalist under her wise-cracking alterego Dolly Wilde, experiencing the highs and lows of discovering herself along the way. Littered with laugh out loud passages (we dare you not to snort with horrified laughter at Johanna’s Scooby Doo moment on Midlands Weekend), Moran has a turn of phrase that uncannily evokes working class Britain in the 80s and even more so, the universal wonder and heartache of growing up.

How To Build A Girl, Caitlin Moran

In an era where sisterhood is seen as the marker of the 21st century, The Precious Ones looks back on the young years of a female’s life, shedding light on the days where these complex relationships first begin. In search of mending broken (or in some cases non-existent) relationships, Taisy travels back to the town where she grew up, curious to find her place in her father’s new family. Younger sister Willow quickly moves from being her worst enemy to her biggest champion as the two set out on a path to gain back their lost years. Although predictable at times, New York Times bestseller Marisa de los Santos taps into the complicated but commanding connections found between two female minds.

Pretty Little Things, photographed by Amber Gray, MOJEH Issue 22

The Precious Ones, Marisa de los Santos

In her latest fictional novel, The Sacrifice, Joyce Carol Oates takes us on an exploration of racial tensions in 1980’s America through the fictional New Jersey town of Pascayne. Oates follows Sybilla Frye, a young (black) girl who is allegedly a victim of a hate crime and has been raped and beaten by ‘white cops.’ Skin colour is central to the story and with every new character introduced, Oates provides us with a description of their skin. Oates builds a narrative through the viewpoint of all characters involved, exploring the injustice that comes alongside these prominent race issues through their eyes. It is due to these tensions that Sybilla’s abuse is referred to as ‘alleged’ throughout the novel, and remains an unsolved crime.

The Sacrifice, Joyce Carol Oates

Bringing the two worlds of the living and dead together, Oliver’s debut adult novel offers a fascinating entrance into a fusion of the two. The New York Times bestselling author of Before I Fall and Delirium, creates characters of depth, despair and in search of clarity. After the death of wealthy homeowner Richard Walker, his estranged family members Caroline, Trenton and Minna show up to claim what’s theirs. But painful truths are exposed as time moves on. Ghosts Alice and Sandra are still lingering through the light bulbs and in the radiators long after their deaths. The meeting of both worlds collide and change things forever.

Rooms, Lauren Oliver

Filled with intrigue, magic and a teenage protagonist, Erika Johansen’s first series, The Queen of the Tearling, is a concerted effort in modern day storytelling. Set within the landscape of New England in a world of medieval resources set 300 years into our future, Kelsea Glynn must navigate her way through attempted assassination, a decaying realm and the wrath of the Red Queen to secure her rightful place as heir of the Tearling throne. Johansen’s vivid depiction of Kelsea, a headstrong 19-year-old harbours a familiar, rebellious message about making mistakes, growing up and learning to deal with the harsh realities of life.

The Queen of the Tearling, Erika Johansen

208

M o j eh I ns ider

Sisters in Business With a growing number of Emirati women starting their own businesses in the Middle East, recent reports have claimed women now account for thirty percent of business owners across the UAE. But it is the bond between sisters that’s proving to be paramount to success within the fashion industry. We met with sets of sisters who have started their own businesses together and are reaping all of the rewards.

Dinz Sisters Starting their label over 7 years ago, sisters Dina and Rima were inspired by their mother to enter the world of fashion. Following their instinct and noticing a gap in the market, Dina’s t-shirt making sideline business during her studies at university sparked Rima’s entrepreneurial desire. Arriving in Dubai in 1997, they knew it was the ideal place for a business start-up. As the markets were emerging in every sector, they knew it was a no-brainer to follow their heart’s desire of owning their own business. With Dina’s background in business and Rima’s education in graphic design, it proved to be the perfect combination. With the hope of growing their business even further this year, we spoke to them about their journey so far.

Dinz Sisters Dina and Rima

What sparked your love and interest in fashion?

still not where we can be, but we’ll get there. I believe

Dina: Without a doubt our mother! All of our oldest

that there is a vision for the fashion industry in the

memories of fashion include our mother. I used to love

Middle East, and thanks to the support and all the

watching her dress up for a big night out and spent

amazing initiatives being started here in Dubai, it

hours playing around in her closet dreaming of the

will get there.

day I would get to dress up too! She used to always let me choose my own outfits and has always given

How do you strike a balance between family,

us complete freedom and encouraged us to play

socialising and working life?

around with fashion and really love it from our hearts.

Rima: It’s absolutely crazy! I have two kids and I’m extremely hands-on so my life is insane! The only way

What’s the best thing about the fashion industry

I can balance everything is by waking up extremely

in this region?

early to get a head start on my day. I try to finish all

Rima: There is so much amazing talent in the region

my work while the kids are in nursery, and then again

and we really feel that there is also a lot of support

when they’re napping or in the evening after they

for it. There’s so much creativity coming out of this

sleep. Between that I’m with my kids and family so

part of the world, and it’s so inspiring! We think that

my days are really full. Sadly, I hardly have time or

the region’s fashion industry is still growing and we’re

energy for a social life on most days!

210

Sisters Dalia and Lama Sadiq.

Socialista Boutique With a dream of always starting a business together, in March 2012 it became a reality. Sisters Dalia and Lama grew up in California surrounded by fashion boutiques, major fashion labels and fashionable people. Bringing this inspiration and knowledge with them to Dubai, they introduced brands like David Koma, Opening Ceremony and SelfPortrait to the region through their business, Socialista Boutique. With Lama’s degree in fashion marketing and Dalia’s business brain (and their unwavering determination to succeed) they opened shop. Learning how to balance family, life and business over the past few years (both have recently had babies) they’ve got high ambitions for the future.

Inside the Socialista Boutique in Sunset Mall.

Has it always been your dream to open a

coming back to Dubai to open up our boutique together.

business together?

Dubai is a wonderful city and we wanted to add to its

Lama: It has always been our dream. We were

greatness with our picks of fashion.

always close our entire lives and dreamt of doing something we love together.

What do you think sets your business apart from the rest in the UAE?

What first attracted you to start your business

Dalia: Socialista Boutique is not your typical

together in Dubai?

boutique. We bring to the UAE Fashpack pieces

Dalia: Lama first moved here in 2004 and I followed

that can set them apart from the rest of the crowd.

in 2006. When we arrived we saw so much potential

From our basics to our dresses, every piece is

in this emerging fashionable city. We always followed

carefully selected to appeal to the girl that wants

fashion and people would constantly ask us where we

to stand out in the crowd. We have introduced to

bought our pieces. It was then that we decided this

Dubai some of the most coveted contemporary

was our calling in life. Lama then went to London to

designers such as David Koma, Opening Ceremony

get her degree in Fashion Marketing with the intent of

and Self-Portrait.

212 Endemage Without ever intending to go into business together, in 2013 sisters Nadia and Lubna launched their fashion label Endemage. After Lubna realised her love did not lie in studying psychology, she returned to Oman and told her parents it was fashion that was her true love. Initially designing Abayas, they noticed the greater need for ready-to-wear collections in the UAE. Inspired by their Omani heritage theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve kept family ties in the business and their deeply rooted culture too. Growing up watching their mother and aunt run their own boutique in Oman, it was a natural choice for both to come together and do the same.

Omani sisters Lubna and Nadia.

Why do you think sisters are drawn to working

Lubna: Also, the financial side is very important. I

together in the UAE?

mean, rather than taking out a loan it’s better to get

Nadia: I’m sure there must be a high percentage of

your family involved. I started working on my own

family businesses in the Gulf. I guess the values we’ve

before starting Endemage because I wanted to

been brought up with. I know in Oman the structure of

contribute to the business rather than just take money

large corporations are all based on family businesses.

from my parents.

That’s the culture we’ve been brought up in. Even if

I was working for Tiffany’s – a big brand. So now I

we have a decision we have to make, a lot of the time

understand how it works. So if you enjoy design and

it’s a family decision. They’ve been in business for so

want to start designing but you don’t understand

long that we take ideas from them and we bounce

how the world actually works then it might not work

ideas off each other. I guess it’s very easy to work

out - especially in Dubai because they have to take on

with your sister or brother.

international standards. People aren’t going to take you seriously unless you follow the international calendar

What advice would you give to young female

of when deadlines are supposed to be made. A lot

entrepreneurs in the region?

of people don’t understand this. It doesn’t help them

Nadia: I think they need to understand the market to

when they want to go abroad and show internationally.

give themselves a competitive edge.

Then they’ll lose hope.

214

m o j eh w o man

Her Style , her World By Susan Devaney

Photographed by Tom Hanslien / Loop Images, Corbis.

From London to New York to Miami, director and muse Ambra Medda has creatively touched every continent sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s arrived at. With her recent appointment as Global Creative Director of Design 20/21 for Christieâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, we discuss her route to success and new beginnings.

Mexico City

‘I dream big and never stop dreaming’ is the last thing she says to me. To some this may sound like familiar American ‘you can do anything you put your mind to’ delivered drivel – but this is Ambra Medda. At the tender age of 24-yearsold she had already launched Design Miami – a global forum for design that attracts the world’s artists, gallerists and creative minds to meet in one place. It was so successful, Art Basel immediately asked her to bring the fair to Switzerland. After which she directed both fairs for around six years. ‘Even for me it sort of makes me laugh. I think maybe when you’re just so young you don’t really question things. It was a really sparkly and magnetic moment,’ she says recalling that dream-like life flash. Most people at that age are still studying (or contemplating what to study) or trying to figure out who they are or where they want to be before they hit the looming big 3-0. But at 33-years-old Ambra has it all figured out. It’s Ambra’s voice that’s captivating. She has this exotic fusion of verbal tones and an international lilt that instantly speaks of her worldly wanders. Since birth she has never stopped travelling. Leaving Greece and living in London until she was 10, the family then took to the city of Milan (where her mother opened a gallery) until Ambra turned sixteen and they relocated back to the Big Smoke. After finishing school, Ambra took the academic route choosing to study Chinese Language and Culture with Asian Art. ‘To be completely frank I think I didn’t really know what I wanted to do until I was older. So I thought I might as well study something that I’m really passionate about and interested in,’ she tells me with sincerity. With a ‘bag of hope’ Ambra moved to the ‘City that never sleeps.’ She started curating exhibitions and mixing with the city’s cream of the crop. In 2004, she went to Art Basel and knew it was something she had to be part of. From its festive spirit to the creative coming together of like-minded individuals, Ambra was instantly attracted to its vibrancy. ‘I lived in New York at the time and it felt very saturated. I was 23-years-old and I thought I wanted to be a contemporary Chinese art dealer. When I arrived in New York, to my dismay, whilst it was exciting and full of promise, it was also extremely competitive. I wasn’t fearful of competition, it was just more I would look at the people who had made it and I thought I don’t want to become those people…I have a real curiosity for

216

Photographed by Chris Gordon, Corbis.

With her delicate features, chocolate brown glossed locks and almond doe eyes, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s easy to see why Ambra has also played muse to French fashion brand Roger Vivier.

Art Basel Miami 2010

people and they way that they think,’ she says. Put off by New York City’s saturated market and ruthless nature, Ambra took to the sun-filled shores of Miami. ‘It’s not like I discovered Miami, but the city was very much at a time when things were changing and there was a lot of hope on all fronts: cultural, economical, and I thought this is an occasion where I’m so young and the idea that I can be part of a city that’s changing and forming itself is a privilege,’ she says. After launching Design Miami in December 2005, its success literally moved across continents. It’s her style and impeccable taste in everything she does that is the backbone of her success. With her delicate features, chocolate brown glossed locks and almond doe eyes, it’s easy to see why Ambra has also played muse to French fashion brand Roger Vivier. With the added artistic note of being creator and founder of L’ArcoBaleno a website that fuses both style and substance in equal measurement, she was the perfect choice to collaborate with the brand’s creative director Bruno Frisoni to create the limited-edition version of the house’s Miss Viv’ bag for autumn/winter last year. Ambra’s own personal eclectic style can be seen across the campaign. ‘When I travel, whether I’m in Peru or Paris, I will pick up things,’ she tells me. From colourful classics to vintage textiles, her style is spontaneous. Sourcing and hunting for hidden treasure appears to be an integral part of Ambra’s nature – it’s what she does best. With this ability to scout for talent, Ambra hopes to use it within her new role. ‘I think just breathe new life into it and come up with some exciting new ideas and projects for Christie’s to come forth and own a little bit more of the design world’, she says of her aim for the new position. W ithout adopting ruthless characteristics, Ambra has achieved the height of success whilst containing her sensitivity. After being headhunted for her new role and helping to shape the international world of design, it’s not something most people can claim after they’ve reached their career goals. As Ambra settles and places roots back in London with her boyfriend Edward Barber, they are expecting their first child. ‘To be honest I think when you travel so much you start to find a sense of home within yourself … Home, I guess, is wherever my shoes and my boyfriend are.’ On that note, Ambra plans to enter a chapter of her life with a new job, a new city and a new life to bring into her wonderful world.

Perfect Pair: Miss Viv’ Meets Ambra Medda for Roger Vivier, 2013.

218

M OJEH W o man

Tahitian Dreams

Middle East CEO and creative cirector of Robert Wan, Audrey Tcherkoff, takes us on an insiderâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tour of her April.

Currently reading: #Girlboss from Sophia Amoruso, the founder and CEO of Nasty Gal | Song of the moment: Thinking out loud by Ed Sheeran, I recently saw him in concert and he blew my mind. So much talent and passion | Most cherished April ‘me-moment’: Spending a few more moments in the sunshine enjoying my garden with my husband and friends with my favourite cocktail | Guilty pleasure: Shopping for a new pair of shoes | Design inspiration for spring: The Alamanda ring which is an homage to the favourite flower of Mr. Wan. Nothing evokes that tropical feeling quite like the frangipani. Their sweet scent and sheer beauty make them universally loved and the blooms look sensational on the tree and as a cut flower | Spring-time destination: Tahiti in French Polynesia is crowned with majestic peaks and hidden valleys | Thing to do whilst there: Enjoy the crystalline lagoons of the surrounding islands, live in your swimwear! The azure-hued realm of French Polynesia is a tropical Eden. It is probably the only place in the world where I feel in total connection with nature. People live barefoot, drink coconut water from the trees, eat the fish from the sea and dedicate their lives to producing some of the most beautiful pearls in the world | Favourite dish whilst there: Poisson cru, Tahiti’s national dish, literally means ‘raw fish’ in French. It consists of fresh fish, usually tuna or mahi mahi, and vegetables marinated in limejuice and coconut milk | Favourite April workout: Biking on the beach! I live in Jumeirah in Dubai and we have amazing cycling paths all along the beach. April is the best month, the weather is perfect and we can still enjoy the last bit of fresh breeze | April flower: Hydrangea, my favourite of all! | Downtime indulgence: Massage! We can only work hard as long as we are taking care of our body and soul | Nail colour for spring: Fallen in love with Black Jade by Tom Ford! | Spring-time fragrance: I love a scent that’s sweet or floral for a fresh springtime finish. Elie Saab has it all; I am obsessed with its sweetness | Spring-time accessories: The Perle d’Or Collection, inspired by and created for the modern women. Composed of minimalistic designs cast in 18k gold, each Perle d’Or piece is adorned with the finest pearls and it’s definitely a more contemporary approach allowing women to wear pearls daily.

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Asia de Cuba at Abu Dhabi’s St Regis

Style Stacation

John Galliano SS15

Latin America quietly influences summer’s popular culture. Here’s how to muster up the region’s colourful vibe without ever leaving the city. For spring summer 15, John Galliano takes on the spirit of a summer spent in the Pacific with vibrant and tropical prints that play to the magnetic tune of Mexico and Costa Rica, while rich green and blue

Art Dubai’s Marker 2015, curated by Luiza de Freitas

fabrics emulate the tranquil and loveable energy found in Peru or Argentina. To evoke that same spirit without stepping foot outside the Middle East, visit Abu Dhabi’s St Regis hotel, which currently plays host to Asia de Cuba, a chic restaurant across the shoreline offering foodies a sophisticated and elegant approach to fusion dining. Remaining close to home, March’s ninth edition of Art Dubai turned its attention to Latin America, when curator Luiza Teixeira de Freitas explored the connection between the Middle East and Latin America through a spread of artist’s books, sound projects, performance and film. A heady and prolific snapshot that highlighted its nuances and raptures, giving way to why Latin America remains one of our biggest inspirations today.

THE DUBAI MALL, FASHION AVENUE, 044341418 MALL OF THE EMIRATES, LEVEL 1, 043410810 DEIRA, RADISSON BLU HOTEL, 042288110