ISSUE 27 by MOJEH

12 Chairman SHAHAB IZADPANAH

EDITORIAL

PUBLISHING

Editor in Chief MOJEH IZADPANAH

Publishing Director RADHIKA NATU

Associate Editor SHERI IZADPANAH

Publishing Assistant DESIREE LABANDA-GAVERIA

Managing Editor KELLY BALDWIN

Junior Publishing Assistant Kisada Hurin

Fashion Writer susan devaney

Paris Representative GHISLAIN DE CASTELBAJAC

Senior Editorial Assistant Natalie Trevis

Senior Advertisement Manager Pamela Bayram Cleave

Editorial Assistant CHarlotte codd

Advertising Inquiries Tel: +971 4 553 90 49 Email: advertising@mojeh.com

MOJEH Men Group Jake Hamilton Christopher Prince

Subscription Tel: +971 4 553 90 49 Email: subs@mojeh.com

Guest Fashion Stylists Christine De Lassus Guillaume Boulez

LOUIS FOURTEEN FOR MOJEH

ART

Concierge Service Management ASSMA AHMED

Producer LOUIS AGENCY

Corporate Manager JUBRAN HAMATI

Art Director AMIRREZA AMIRASLANI

Manager IT Division Ali Roman

Graphic Designer Balaji Mahendran

Senior Stylist MARIAN GIRGIS

Digital Strategy LOUIS AGENCY Contributing Photographers Anthony Arquier Antoine & Balthazar BORNA AHADI Fabien Montique Julio Gamboa Olivier Rose sarvenaz hashtroudi

Cover photographed by Anthony Arquier, model wears Cartier jewellery and Gucci dress.

Published under HS Media Group FZ LLC Registered at Dubai Design District Building No. 8, Offices 212 P.O.Box 502333, Dubai, UAE. WWW.MOJEH.COM Louis Fourteen for MOJEH Follow us on Twitter @MOJEH_Magazine MOJEH Swiss Representative Office: Rue de Rive 4, 1204 Geneva, Switzerland Average qualified circulation (January-June 2014): 14,184 copies. For the UAE printed by Emirates Printing Press LLC. Distribution- UAE: Al Nisr Distribution LLC. Qatar: Dar Al Sharq. Bahrain: Jashanmal & Sons BSC (C). Oman: United Media Services LLC. Lebanon: Messageries Du Moyen-Orient The publishers regret that they cannot accept liability for error or omissions contained in this publication, however caused. The opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessary those of the publishers. Readers are advised to seek specialist advice before acting on information contained in this publication which is provided for general use and may not be appropriate for the readers particular circumstances. The ownership of trademark is acknowledged, therefore reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. All credits are subjects to change. Copyright HS MEDIA GROUP FZ LLC 2011

Daily Luxury Jewelry — MarliNewYork.com Bloomingdale’s — Dubai, The Dubai Mall | + 971 4 3505131 Harvey Nichols — Dubai, Mall of the Emirates | + 971 4 4098943

M o j eh C o ntent s

SOCIETY 28. FIVE MINUTES WITH MARIAM SEDDIQ From Australia to Afghanistan, designer Mariam Seddiq gives us a little insight into her creative process for eveningwear that is far from formal.

32. A PRINCE AMONG HIS QUEENS After dressing some of the world’s most renowned brides, Parisian-based designer Stéphane Rolland shares his fondest memories of creating some the greatest wedding gowns.

36. TRUE BEAUTY Who’s that girl? We get to know Jessica Kahawaty – the Australian-Lebanese rising star who has more than a few strings to her bow.

FASHION 42. BLANK PAGE

59. FINDING THE ONE

Understated or over-the-top? Elegant or eclectic?

As we welcome wedding season, MOJEH contributor

We chart the rise of the iconic white dress and all

Laura Binder discusses the joys to be found when

the ways to wear it.

looking towards individuality on the big day.

56. MY STYLISH LIFE

80. MR. PERFECT

Isn’t love like a flower? Priya Jelly, founder and creative

As Giorgio Armani celebrates Armani Privé’s 10th

director of Dubai-based Maison Des Fleurs, thinks

couture anniversary, we meet the man behind the

so. She discusses flowers, love and much more.

billion-dollar empire. What does beauty mean to him?

16 PhotoSHOOTS 100. FREE LOVE Feel the spirit of the Seventies with a bohemian vibe, air of sophistication and ultra-modern silhouette for the season ahead.

112. LOOK AT ME NOW From Schiaparelli to Atelier Versace, turn to the complexities of couture with a greater focus on the details.

146. A Deeper Love Adorn yourself in jewels from bygone eras and play the role of the leading Lady, who says a bride only wears diamonds?

ACCESSORIES 126. FANTASY VERSUS FUNCTION

134. THE ROSE IN OUR STARS

Which way will you look this season? Peruse our edit

The creative director of Christian Dior high jewellery

of the most covetable and wearable accessories from

Victoire de Castellane takes us through the moodboard

the couture runway.

for her latest collection Rose des Vents.

132. WILD AT HEART

138. BLUE FOR YOU?

Bring in the summer with a carefree feel. Embellish

Why are brides-to-be indulging in a love affair with

your summer sartorial choices with bohemian

coloured gemstones? MOJEH contributor Laura

inspired pieces.

Binder investigates.

18 BEAUTY AND HEALTH 164. FROZEN IN TIME Is it a just a hope with an empty promise? MOJEH investigates why high profile companies want women to freeze their eggs for the future.

168. EAT. SLEEP. REPEAT. As complaints of fatigue, tiredness and sleepless nights rise, we ask once again: are we getting enough sleep?

170. GILDED LOCKS Whether you prefer your hair up or down, reimagine your summer looks with the trend of the moment: hair ornaments.

CULTURE 186. ASK HER MORE

198. INFECTIOUS LOVE

We delve behind the reasons fuelling The

Regional style influencer Natalia Shustova walks us

Representation Project and why Hollywood’s leading

through her world as we discuss her love for life, her

ladies want you to ask more.

business and future plans.

192. SAIL AWAY WITH ME

200. SUMMER OF LOVE

What will we be reading this summer? Famed

As her big day gets even closer, bride-to-be Lilian

photographer Jüergen Teller and Nicolas Ghesquière

Afshar lets us into the inspirations and bridal

collaborate for Louis Vuitton’s collectors book ‘The Flow’.

preparations for her upcoming nuptials.

E d i t o r ’s L ette r

And the bride wore white …Or did she? The

Stéphane Rolland in his memoir to us. ‘I have rarely

beauty in modern weddings – whether hosting or

in my life met women as conscious and respectful of

attending – is that traditions and rules of the past no

their femininity as the Middle Eastern one. Attention

longer impose themselves quite as forcefully. Along

is given to every detail: the effect of the hairstyle…

with our partners, we take ownership on the big

as much as that of a jewel. Her expression must

decisions for the big day. Will it be a diamond or an

be captivating, intoxicating, and her skin as soft as

emerald for the ring? Will a two-metre train suffice

silk.’ I couldn’t have put it better myself. With that in

or none at all? A three-day celebration in one of

mind, we’ve pulled together a whole host of options

the world’s most prestigious castles or a hideaway

for every modern guise. In ‘Look At Me Now’ we

wedding with only your nearest and dearest in

discover the new wave of couture – energetic, risky

attendance (pets included)? I’m lucky enough to be

and just about as innovative as it comes. Forget

attending a whole host of weddings over the coming

the princess gown, this is 21st century cool. But

months and am quite sure that each one will be a

as much as we’re celebrating the alternative, we

world away from the last; the only thread that pulls

can’t help but be charmed by the classics. From

each together is originality and personality. Instead

whimsical bohemian looks to structured gowns,

of being led by custom and convention, the bride

there are endless options for every woman who

and groom lead by character. And so this issue

opts to wear white. On the other hand our cover

celebrates the diversity that can be found when

model takes an alternative view by turning away

love and liberation collide.

from tradition as she wears Cartier’s French Cancan

‘There is the ‘je ne sais quoi’ which makes the

rings in which infinitely shaped bubble like duck blue

Middle Eastern bride more attractive and the

and electric purple malachite and opals represent

moment more like a fairytale,’ wrote couturier

an intense love, the deepest of kinds.

Follow me on Twitter and Instagram @Mojeh_I and write to me at editor@mojeh.com

Mojeh Izadpanah Editor in Chief

Photographed by Antoine & Balthazar

Modern Love

E d i t o r ’s SN A P SHOT s

Burning

Desire

Statement accessories in fiery shades will see you from day-tonight. Whether you turn to glitz and glamour in the form of Fendi or Roger Vivier’s sculptural necklace, it’s all in the details.

INSP IRATION SNA PSHOT

LANVIN

IN THE NUDE Warmer weather will see us stripping back our beauty regime as well as our wardrobe and products have to work harder to give us our summer glow. Whether you choose skin care or make-up to create the look, keep your beauty cabinet fresh to handle the heat in style. Summer scents in both fragrance and candals add calmness.

4 2

5 6 3

T h e J ewel s

Lady Arpels Zodiac Libra watch with engraved white gold dial, white gold bezel and diamonds, set on a white alligator strap, VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

Balmy Blues This yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s something blue looks to the earth for inspiration. Reflective of a star-lit, buckle-blue night sky, immersed in glossy clouds, or frozen dewdrops made from opal and elevated above diamonds, summerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hue for high jewellery is organic, unspoiled and in touch with Mother Nature. Whether partnered with a crisp white gown or combined with colour, softly does it.

Forbidden Forest earrings with opal, brown diamond and white diamond, set on 18K gold, WENDY YUE, available at Harvey Nichols - Dubai

DUBAI MALL, DUBAI CENTRIA MALL, RIYADH BOULEVARD MALL, JEDDAH OSCARDELARENTA.COM

D e sig n er s n apshot

Bianca embellished gown, SS15

Sydney-based designer Mariam Seddiq blends laid-back Australian cool with inspiration from her Afghan heritage to create embellished eveningwear that is far from formal.

How do you find the inspiration for your eveningwear designs? From traditional tribal beading and everyday clothing, I mix the two together to create a modern tribal look. What inspires you? Middle Eastern architecture is my main source of inspiration. The attention to detail, the history and the labour involved really intrigues me. As well as the handwork on garments, which are created in a lot of villages by women. The patience and one of a kind feel is so beautiful.

Ava embellished sweatshirt, SS15

Who has been the biggest influence on you creatively? My Mum! She was and is so extravagant and loves to stand out. As a child I was like, ‘Calm down!’ But now I love it and understand where I get my more-is-more nature from! Tell us about the process of working with a bride to design a gown. I have to click and connect with them from the start. It’s about the relationship, the journey and really connecting to make a beautiful bridal outfit that reflects the bride’s personality and dream dress, as well as my style and handcraft. It is a very special process and an honour whenever a bride decides to choose you to create her dress for the big day. What’s the best thing about being a designer

Beaded bib necklace, SS15

Five Minutes With

Mariam Seddiq

They are all artists in their own way and don’t know it.

in Sydney? The best thing is our relaxed, down to earth and easy-going nature. We have so many beaches to go to if we need to unwind and amazing places to eat and drink. We are really coming together with the fashion world thanks to social media and we produce a lot of well-known talents such as actors, designers and musicians. Tell us about your own most memorable fashion

train. That way you can get to the dancing and not feel the

moment.

weight of your outfit. When you are comfortable you are

I won a competition to paint a canvas for the 10th

confident and will enjoy the moment rather than thinking

anniversary of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week in Australia.

about your outfit.

The canvases were auctioned off for the Tsunami Appeal and out of 82 designer canvases my artwork came 10th

If you could be anywhere in the world right now where

place, among all the big Australian designers. I was just a

would you be and why?

young student then. Now at the 20th anniversary I am on

New York and Paris! New York because I have been dying

a par with those designers. So it was a very motivational

to be a tourist there for so long! And Paris because I feel

feeling, thinking that I would be at their level one day and

like every inch is so beautiful. I can be a tour guide there!

now I am amongst it all. What’s your motto for life? What’s your best advice for how to dress for a wedding?

Don’t stress! Life’s too short! Ensure your life is a balance

Comfort is number one. Have detachable things so as

of work versus play. Take it one step at a time and don’t

the night goes on you can remove a tulle skirt or pin up a

forget to have a laugh.

T h e S tatem en t

Colour

Loving Look towards heady shades of purple and pink for a confident take on occasion wear. Statement watches encrusted with diamonds against a bold backdrop of deep mahogany will take you from day to night, while candy jar favourites such as amethyst and tanzanite bring play to the party.

Clockwise from top left: MVSA bracelet with amethyst, rubellite boules, round mounted setting pave, set in pink gold, BVLGARI | MVSA earrings with boule amethyst, amethyst, boule rubellite, round mounted setting pave, set in pink gold, BVLGARI | Dior VIII Montaigne with mother-of-pearl, plum-coloured sun-brushed dial, diamonds, set on stainless steel with a plum-coloured calfskin, DIOR TIMEPIECES | Tonda 1950 watch with mother-of-pearl and diamond, set on 18KT white gold, PARMIGIANI FLEURIER at Damas

D e sig n er M em oir

Designer Stéphane Rolland

A Prince Among

His Queens Legendary designer Stéphane Rolland cites his love and appreciation of women as one of his biggest influences. Here the artist shares memories of crafting some of the greatest wedding gowns our generation has known.

By Stéphane Rolland

For as long as I can recall, my fascination with weddings has remained intact. As a child, I watched, hypnotized in front of the television, as Anne, Princess Royal got married, and later, Charles and Diana’s nuptials. I devoured magazine articles which featured princesses and actresses on the day of their wedding – such as Grace Kelly or the Empress Farah Diba. What moments, what memories. However, if today’s European weddings have somewhat lost their splendour, those of the Middle East transport me back to my childhood dreams. While the intent may be the same, there is this ‘je ne sais quoi’ which makes the Middle Eastern bride more attractive and the moment more like a fairy tale. I think that the desire to give the best possible image of oneself, the pleasure in making the eyes of an entire company sparkle and quite simply to conjure up a dream, make the moment and the bride quite unique. I have rarely in my life met women as conscious and respectful of their femininity as the Arab woman. Attention

A unique Haute Couture creation

is given to every detail: the effect of the hairstyle, worked on for hours, is primordial, as much as that of a jewel.

woman. I love making her happy, seeing

Her expression must be captivating,

the joy in her eyes when the sketch that

intoxicating, and her skin as soft as silk.

I am busy drawing is finished at last.

Without mentioning the enchantment of

By designing the dress in front of her,

perfume and the ‘bakhour’ ceremony,

I receive her reactions as they come,

diffused around the dress and the hair,

and thus know if I am on the right path.

in which I cannot help but participate

Each dress is conceived as a work of art,

with great joy!

unique. A princess’ dress embroidered

Meeting the bride-to-be is always a

with crystal may sometimes be

special moment, and one of which I

transformed into a gold taub, worthy

never tire. I know that she has a great

of the Arabian Nights, enchanting both

weight on her shoulders and that

the bride as well as its creator. Each

she risks being engulfed by anguish;

creation may or may not correspond to

nonetheless, each time, we work

the themes of the last collection, still

together (it really is a combined effort)

it will remain the mirror of the bride’s

to find the idea, the concept, the spark,

personality. It is the dress for a day, the

which will make her the most admired

dress of a lifetime, in principle.

I always find out about the decoration of the venue; I like to know who is the wedding planner, so that my team can get in touch with them in order to verify each detail, like the width of the catwalk, the positioning of the lights on the faces, the height of the ‘coucha’, the choice of music, which I sometimes even compose, or simply the colour of the flowers. The decoration theme may sometimes even influence the design of the wedding dress. Every single thing must be taken into account to avoid any untoward surprise. To this end, I often design the mothers’ and sisters’ dresses, thus making the overall effect homogeneous and elegant. I think I must have been heavily influenced by the universe of Lord Cecil Beaton, who unfailingly managed to combine glamour and poetry, in such an original style. The first Arab wedding which I attended will forever be engraved in my memory. I was at the time the only man allowed inside and my arrival in the room was as thrilling as it was awkward. The sight of over a thousand female eyes observing

The designer showcases his bridal looks in Paris

you as they veiled themselves was enough to make the toughest of men blush. This I enjoy the audacity often shown by

was over fifteen years ago and things have

Arab women. They do not fear the

changed a bit since then. However, this

elements of surprise and risk. I take

moving and enriching experience opened

advantage of this trait by being daring

my mind, enabling me to better understand

myself, in making spectacular, organic,

the eastern woman’s needs. You must

architectural volumes, trains worthy of

decipher the codes, be respectfully,

crowning ceremonies, bouquets of gold

carefully and humbly observant. I dived

and silver, crystal and pearls, one of my

into the Orient with delight and it has never

signatures. At the same time, it is vital

loosened its hold on me.

to spice up tradition with a modern-

Being a Parisian couturier is a privilege

day touch, thus I work with the most

which permits you to enter the most secret

innovative and painstaking of artisans.

circles, to meet the most extraordinary

Jewellers, woodworkers of the famous

women, but all this needs to be worked

Boule school, the greatest feather-

for. By becoming the most oriental of the

workers, artist painters and embroiderers

French fashion designers, I have come to

but also chemists, participate in making

understand and to love the women who

almost every desire become a living reality.

today show me their loyalty and their trust.

Wo ma n o f S ty le

True Beauty

By Natalie Trevis

Jessica Kahawaty is the Australian-Lebanese model, presenter, beauty pageant queen and all round It-girl who is diving head first into each one of life’s opportunities. We catch up with Jessica to find out just where she finds the inspiration (and the energy) to keep going.

If there is one thing that we take away from our afternoon with Jessica Kahawaty it’s a very simple mantra. One that has seen her through more than a decade of modelling assignments, a Miss World pageant, a packed schedule of presenting, a series of brand endorsements and philanthropic work with children and disadvantaged communities around the globe: Be yourself. Simple but effective, it’s the way the bright eyed Australian faced the challenge of the ultimate beauty pageant competition in 2012 and emerged smiling (with the second-runner up crown no less). Today, as Jessica Kahawaty focuses her attention on becoming a brand in her own right, it’s a motto for life that continues to act as her guiding star. ‘It just clicked and it made sense,’ she tells us, ‘because that’s the easiest thing to do, you’re actually not trying to do anything, you’re not putting any effort in. This is who I am.’ Sitting in the elegant presidential suite at the RitzCarlton, Dubai, the light glinting off the sea across the balcony, Jessica’s sunny personality has found a natural home in the city. And, as her loyal social media following attests on a daily basis, her positivity is infectious. Full of energy (suggesting shoot locations and springing around the hotel gardens long after most would have grown jaded), she’s easy to be around and refreshingly unstarry. Judges, television viewers and luxury brands alike have fallen for her laidback charm and mesmerising hazel-green eyes, and if there was ever an outward pressure to conform or change, she has politely refused. ‘Obviously this industry does have its pressures but thankfully I’ve never felt like I had to take away from my personality. I like to be funny. I feel like when I write posts I don’t like to take myself too seriously. And sometimes I’ll think, ‘Oh, should I?’ or should I write something that’s a bit normal and bland and then I think no, this is who I am, why do I have to make it up? So I write whatever I feel.’

Dress, BALENCIAGA | Earrings, ROBERT WAN Photographed at The Ritz-Carlton, Jumeirah Beach, Dubai

38 Dress, RAMI AL ALI | Shoes, LOUIS VUITTON

Which is precisely the reason that Jessica has brands from Roberto Coin to Pepsi Nex in Japan to Louis Vuitton and Rolls Royce seeking her out as an ambassador, model or spokesperson. She is also the face and presenter of Yahoo Maktoob’s omg! NOW and omg! NUJOOM shows. Model looks combined with an unapologetically real personality make Jessica a natural fit for brands seeking a connection with a shared audience; and the feeling is mutual. ‘I work with brands that I love,’ she tells us. ‘I will never work with someone if I don’t feel like there is a connection between us, or if I’ve never worn the brand. It’s really important to be genuine with the brands that I represent… and also just for my followers. I never want to lie to them…’ With more than a few luxury brands on hand for our shoot, styling Jessica is as natural a process as it is possible to be. In true breezy style, she’s happy for us to take the reins when it comes to picking out her

classy, be elegant, be a lady, three: be sweet but

looks. Perfectly at ease in eveningwear, everything

independent at the same time. I’ve always said that

from a laser cut origami-style Rami Al Ali gown to a

a woman who’s independent isn’t less feminine. So

slinky Gucci halterneck is brought to life and made

have a good balance as well.’

completely her own.

Growing up in Sydney, it was Jessica’s tight-knit

While Jessica’s public persona may be unfiltered,

family that provided her own sense of balance.

it’s a role she takes seriously for reasons beyond

Her mother (a nurse who dabbled in modelling in

style and beauty. ‘Whether you know it or not there

her early 30s) and father (a successful jeweller in

is always someone out there who is going to look

Sydney with impeccable taste) are evidently the

up to you. It’s so important to influence young girls

source of Jessica’s creativity but also played a hand

positively,’ she says. ‘It’s important to show young

in encouraging her decision to study a bachelor’s

girls that there are businesspeople, there are models

degree in Law and Finance at Sydney’s University of

and there are entrepreneurs who are all women and

Technology. ‘My family’s support at the pageants was

who can be spokespeople for that generation… for

really important because they were opposed to it at

charitable issues, for social issues, for all sorts of

first. My father didn’t want me to do it… So for me

things. I think it’s important to have that relatability

to have them there at Miss World in Mongolia was

and not just have this flawless standard of beauty.’

such a big indication of their support for me… they

The message of support for other women goes beyond

are truly my rock.’ There can be few women in their

beauty ideals and there is evidently a considered

20s who are as confidently reflective, or seem to have

strength behind the smile – some of which is borne

it quite so figured out as 26-year-old Jessica, and it

out of surviving the cut-throat arena of the beauty

becomes clear that her family are a huge source of

pageant world. ‘When you’re under one roof with 127

her confidence. ‘If I was to try to pinpoint one person

girls, you have 127 different backgrounds, stories,

who was really there for me, who influenced my style,

paths in life: you get enlightened in a way. You’re

who influenced the way I am in this industry, the way

exhausted all the time but you have to keep your

I interact with people, it would be my mother,’ she

cool and be diplomatic. It’s extremely competitive

notes. ‘She has been my biggest support and she is

and if you ever succumb to that then you lose straight

the one who drives me and influences me. I can’t go

away.’ As good a training ground as they come, does

shopping without her! I find it difficult to make decisions

she have any advice for young women following

without her because she just has such a natural energy

in her wake? ‘One: [gain an] education, two: be

to her and things just come really easily with her.’

‘Whether you know it or not there is always someone out there who is going to look up to you. It’s so important to influence young girls positively.’

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;I think itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s important to have that relatability and not just have this flawless standard of beauty.â&#x20AC;&#x2122;

Dress and bracelet, GUCCI

at the event, I have to be there at the shoot. I have to be there at the meetings. It’s because I love what I do – adrenaline keeps me going and time flies and I always look forward to the next thing.’ With so many different elements to her career it might be easy to slip into a chameleon-like vortex of being all things to all people. Which Jessica today? Model, TV personality, role model or charitable force? But that’s half the fun– it’s clear that Jessica thrives on the variety (‘I could never pick one’) and would have it no other way. As for the future, Jessica sees no boundaries. ‘I think, down the line, if I want to take what I’ve built, the name I’ve built, and my law degree, I’d love to get into politics. I’ve never really said that before but it’s something that’s been on my mind… because you are a representative of the people, you do talk about social issues, charitable Being around the people that know her best is

issues and issues that benefit everyone. I’m quite

Jessica’s failsafe way of switching off from the

a utilitarian. For me, I love taking people’s causes

whirlwind that so often surrounds her. Bouncing

and fighting for them.’ Using her platform to make

daily from photo shoots to events to business

a difference is something that Jessica has done

meetings (‘I am a business woman!’) she is driven

since her teens. Working with Rashid Paediatric

by the constant desire for the next new and exciting

Therapy Centre in Dubai most recently, she has

project. But it is ultimately the people in her life

also supported indigenous communities in the

that provide a firm anchor. ‘Yes, you definitely

Lilla area of Australia and well-building projects

have to be ‘on’. I love people and I love socialising

with Charity: Water in Rwanda, Africa and Orissa,

but when you finish from such a long day, maybe

India. More than simply a beauty pageant essential,

shooting and then going to an event, all I want to

these projects (particularly those involving children)

do is swim, or travel,’ she explains. ‘But it also has

are truly meaningful and Jessica’s conscience

to do with who I hang out with afterwards. I hang

continues to drive her charitable efforts. ‘I’ve been

out with my friends and I literally don’t have to

involved in charity since I was 17. It’s something

say anything, I can sit there and enjoy it and put a

so close to my heart because I feel like it fulfils

movie on and eat chocolate and do everything that

me, and it feeds me. When I give I feel like I

makes me comfortable.’ In regular contact with

receive so much. It’s one of those things I have

her mother in Sydney throughout our day, updating

to keep doing,’ she says (proving that there is also

her about the shoot and sending voice messages

substance behind her enviable style).

back and forth, it’s clear that Jessica’s family and

A style and beauty maven and perhaps future

friends offer strength in a media environment in

voice of her generation, Jessica Kahawaty’s star

which it is easy to feel exposed or controlled. ‘I

is rising. Her public persona represents whatever

speak a lot to people I am close to. I think that

it is that you are seeking from her, whether beauty,

helps get through things…they keep you going.’

a role model or quirky personality. Each element

Particularly important as Jessica steadily builds

is truly her. ‘It’s funny because my friends in

her own brand in the region, away from home, one

Australia, my friends who know me, they know

project at a time. ‘I’m doing it on my own’, she

the real Jess, which is Jess in her glasses, sitting

acknowledges. ‘This is a one-man show at the end

in her tracksuit pants, really chill and nerdy,’ she

of the day. I am the brand, I am the business. It’s

says. ‘In terms of personality I never hide it, I

not like I can delegate my tasks. I have to be there

never conceal it. I always try to portray who I am.’

M OJEH A R C HI V ES

Evoking more than just purity, the iconic white dress transcends styles, seasons and a walk down the aisle. Whether you fall for the freedom found in a bohemian version or the austere of a tailored gown, there’s a wardrobe for every type of woman. Here we chart the white dress, as seen on the pages of MOJEH, and celebrate its infinite opportunity.

The white dress provides a blank canvas that allows you to forgo the dressed up and take a casual turn in men’s brogues. A relaxed silhouette keeps things minimal and fit for any situation. The Runaways, photographed Giulia Noni, MOJEH issue 8 | Dress, CALVIN KLEIN

Embellishment adds a soft but lavish tone to lengthy silk gowns. Perfect for a walk to remember. Beach optional.

Boxy shapes and structured coats hark back to the glamorous ages of Hollywood’s Golden Era. Channel a fifties screen siren in chic coats paired with demure gloves.

A Bohemian Rhapsody, photographed by Fedrico de Angelis, MOJEH issue 6 | Dress, VALENTINO

The Depths of Desire, photographed by Mitchell and Wulff, MOJEH issue 14 | Coat, MIU MIU

Turn up the volume in a statement grabbing dress-coat, which keeps things glamorous without the cliché ruffles and overtly feminine style. Indulge in a dose of dressed up cool.

The archetypal white dress comes in all silhouettes and styles, but none stands out in its simplicity quite like a block column dress.

The Season of Grandeur, photographed by Federico de Angelis, MOJEH issue 11 | Dress, WORTH

The Angel of Circeo, photographed by Federico de Angelis, MOJEH issue 6 | Dress, PAULE KA

Return to the carefree days of the seventies by slipping into a free and easy style – statements can often be made with simplicity. A New Mood, photographed by Julien Vallon, MOJEH issue 25 | Dress, CHLOÉ

44 Take on elegance in chiffon and silk with a high neck and embellished waistline. A pussy bow gives an old world charm and remains universally chic.

The softest of white dresses can lead us into dream-like lands, ready to embrace and explore new and infinite territories.

Exquisite beading belongs to the woman who proudly displays her femininity â&#x20AC;&#x201C; floral details provide the crowning glory.

Doll Face, photographed by Raphael Delorme, MOJEH issue 9 | Dress, ELIE SAAB

The romance of a full skirt and luxurious fabrics canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be ignored. This is for a woman who holds on to tradition and feminine values with both her heart and her style. The Garden Party, photographed by Raphael Delorme & Thierno Sy, MOJEH issue 9 | Dress, CHRISTOPHE JOSSE

Top: Leucothea, photographed by Paul de Luna, MOJEH issue 8 | Dress, NAEEM KHAN Bottom: Pretty Little Things, photographed by Amber Gray, MOJEH issue 22 | Dress, Alexander McQueen

S t yl e N ote

Minimalist simplicity at Hermès, spring/summer 2015

come Rain or Shine Donning beautiful outerwear is a serious fashion pleasure of the cooler months, but there’s no need to hang up your coat come springtime. Step into a bright summer cover-up and let the fun continue all year round. By Natalie Trevis Slowly but surely, certain winter fashion staples have steadily become fixtures on the spring/summer runways. Over the knee boots, fur gilets and multi-layered knits. Summer leather and suede, breathable and light. And, of course, the summer coat. Soft, unlined and prettily hued, it promises sunshine-filled days exploring a new city or long languid evenings with friends at a spring wedding. Ever since Christopher Bailey sent the iconic Burberry mac down the runway in bejeweled mint lace for SS14, we’ve known that this is a garment with which to play; the usual outerwear constraints need not apply. It doesn’t have to be functional – it is ready to throw over the first summer dress of the season or tuck around sun-kissed shoulders at dusk. ‘When I’m designing a coat for the winter, it’s about warmth, comfort and style. In the summer it’s the statement piece of the outfit,’ says Katherine Hooker, whose namesake label focuses on custom-made coats and jackets worn by fashion-conscious customers from Meryl Streep to Taylor Swift. ‘The most important thing for me is that it’s light,’ she notes. ‘You don’t necessarily need it for warmth… it’s more that it completes the outfit.

Roksanda Illincic, spring/summer 2015

It should also complement the dress. You can feel a bit vulnerable in a summer dress. The coat should make you feel strong!’ Bracelet sleeved or button-less, printed or punctuated with texture, the summer coat is our new style statement. Christophe Lemaire captured the carefree spirit of the summer coat in his final collection for Hermès, in a perfect round-collared coat that opened the show. Reminiscent of a traditional kurta given a luxurious Hermès twist, the drop-shouldered coat is practically detail-free, save for two vents at the front, which create a mesmerising movement on the body. Its simplicity belies its impact. While understated opulence is always the calling card of the house, executed expertly by Lemaire throughout his reign, the blank-canvas coat is symbolic of the rejuvenation we all seek as winter turns to spring. A fresh start, an optimistic statement – for our wardrobes and for us, too. Of course Miu Miu can always be relied upon to take its own unique view on any conventional wardrobe staple. It’s no secret that Miuccia Prada loves a housecoat. Miu Miu’s mod-inspired quilted version, in unabashed pink, precociously topped with a fur collar (willfully defying the summer heat), is the best example of the season. Deliberately constructed, by the ingeniously divergent Miuccia, to disguise luxury fabrics as polyester, the summer coat was given a punky edge. Integral to the collection, the dolman-sleeved style appeared repeatedly in checks, tweed and bold red leather. Hardware free (as summer coats should be), save for oversized matching buttons and contrasting suede panels, Miuccia’s coats took centre stage, as the anchor around which prim pencil skirts and sleeveless ruffled shirts floated. ‘I wanted to revive the beauty of incredible fabrics,’ Miuccia noted. And with a summer coat in every desirable fabric of the season, Miu Miu offers us outerwear for every occasion. Which is surely the beauty of them. Thrown over beloved denim shorts for a weekend road trip or dressed up over a gown for an evening soirée, the right summer coat, whether an oversized silk trench, leather cropped jacket or linen boyfriend blazer, can add a dose of anything from elegance to urban edge, dependent only on your mood. ‘Personally I don’t think a coat needs to be super coordinated, it just needs to work with the rest of the outfit,’ says Katherine. It’s just this spring-inspired contrariness that has us turning to summer coats in hues from which we might normally shy away. The painter’s palette is your playground when it comes to colour. Skin tones work exceptionally well – soft blush colours suggesting skin without actually showing it, a prelude to summer tans and beachwear. These fresh neutral tones are a welcome break from the darker formality of our winter wardrobes as we make the long transition into hazy summer days and long hot nights. The contemporary market has cannily embraced the summer outerwear trend. Raey has arrived at Matchesfashion.com as a breath of fresh spring air with the perfectly cut basics we always knew we needed. A virgin wool blanket coat in sorbet pink battles its canary yellow counterpart in a bid for summer coat supremacy. In either hue it’s a standout piece in a collection of classics that taps into a versatile charm we wish every item in our wardrobe could convey – especially come summer. ‘The women’s collection has taken on a stronger, more masculine silhouette, which is easy and effortless,’ says Raey designer Rachael Proud, the former design director at Christopher Kane. And easy and effortless is just what a summer coat should be. Pockets, hoods and long sleeves all seem too constraining for summer, it’s clean lines and neutral tones alternated with pops of candy colour that we desire as the temperature heats up. When it comes to outerwear this summer, discover your own lighthearted style, throw caution to the (balmy) wind and say goodbye to practicality. The summer coat is nothing but a warm weather pleasure.

Dior, spring/summer 2015

Fa sh io n IN FO C U S

Together soft gold and peach becomes the perfect combination to set against your newly acquired summer-bronzed skin. Statement jewels such as Oscar de la Renta’s drop-down earrings and Jennifer Behr’s ornate headpiece frame the face like a golden halo, while floorsweeping gowns engulf you in sunset shades.

CHLOË GRACE MORETZ

GOLD DUST 6

Black is effortlessly chic, but a hint of blue

courtesy of Mikimoto and Fabergé will liven up any look. Meanwhile, Simone Rocha adds elegance to a simple evening coat with additional pleats and a loose silhouette – keeping you stylishly warm on balmy summer nights.

Night Skies 4

50 2

White needn’t solely mean wedding and this year the crisp hue stands out on many an occasion. Offset with pretty pastel hues found in accessories and high jewellery, such as Bottega Veneta’s mint green knot clutch and Ivanka Trump’s fancy green diamond ring.

JENNA DEWAN-TATUM

THE BIG DAY 5

Pastel tones and florals remain perennial spring style choices. Emerging in a range of sparkling gems, in an array of colours – from Chanel’s eye-catching watch bejewelled with diamonds and pink stones to Theo Fennell’s jaw dropping green beryl earrings. A treasure chest of jewels will bring spring fashion to life.

SPRING REBORN

5 4

B e h i nd T h e Scene s

One Imagination, Infinite Creations For spring/summer 15, Chanel’s Couture collection resembles an endlessly blossoming flower garden. Much like the mind of Karl Lagerfeld, the 73-piece assembly is ceaseless in its creativity. Designers today often seek comfort around one of two pillars: real versus fake. It’s a play-off against natural and artificial; the tangible and intangible; reality and futuristic. For their most recent couture collection Lagerfeld’s world is a hybrid one in which his vision remains real and grounded in its wearability - but space-age in its ambience consisting of an artificial and seemingly computer generated floral paradise. The show opened with Lagerfeld’s muse Baptiste Giabiconi watering faux flower buds that immediately and mechanically blossomed into bright and blatantly bogus blooms. There we sat inside Paris’s Grand Palais but we might have easily been inside our own computer games - or if we’re to believe in Lagerfeld’s enigmatic and slightly unnerving vision - the future. ‘Couture is a superficial thing that can reveal itself as essential. It follows the developments of the world and it must produce collections that follow one another but never resemble each other,’ he says. What followed was a series of pieces that were all parts innovative, wearable and firmly rooted in the traditions of the brand. Models including Luping Wang, Sam Rollinson and Joan Smalls paraded through this new world in two-piece tweed suits, long and loose tutu-style skirts built from layer upon layer of tumbling tulle - all covered in an array of summer shades from soft pastels to striking blocked brights. Sequined beanie hats in citrus shades were fit for the likes of Cara Delevingne and Kendal Jenner and flat sock-like boots (if they take off like everything else Chanel turns it’s hand to) will set a new trend for soul-less shoes. Emphasis was on the bare midriff leading the way in youth inspired ensembles. The relentless power of the craftsmanship was arguably showcased to its best in pieces where sequins,

The relentless power of the craftsmanship was arguably showcased to its best in pieces where sequins, stones and beads were used to create reptile-like skins.

An unimaginable 450 hours of work is dedicated to creating the impressive flowers in chiffon, silk tulle, sequins and glass beads.

stones and beads were used to create reptile-like skins. One lace infused skirt and bodice combo had sequins sown so tightly together that under the runway lights it appeared as though leather. Similarly, a blood orange cape could easily have been an exotic lizard skin. It wasn’t until the post show presentations that the realities were revealed – simply thousands upon thousands of sequins were jammed together so neatly to visualise Lagerfeld’s superior vision (trickery is another of his specialities). ‘Haute couture is an islet of dreams and escapism. It’s high luxury that transcends fashion and is timeless,’ says the designer. The collection fluxed between daywear and eveningwear with neatly structured office appropriate jackets followed by gowns submersed entirely in bright and beaming organza (butterflies included). Apart from the final bridal gown, there was little distinction between function and fantasy. Today, of course, we’re un-fazed by traditional ideals of dressing for the occasion, anything goes, especially at the House of Chanel (which was always Coco’s intention). The designer officially set up her house in 1915 when Maison de Couture in Biarritz opened its doors and housed her first collection in which she, ‘extolled the virtues of freedom and comfort while banishing ornamentation in favour of line.’ Always staying true to the virtues of original ‘couture’ and its elite pillars – one-of-a-kind, made to measure and crafted by hand - as established by Charles Frederick Worth in 1858 (the founder of couture as it’s known today), Coco Chanel offered women a new and liberated lifestyle that was bespoke by nature. In 1918, she established her brand at the famous 31 rue Cambon and by the end of the decade the house stood tall with five addresses on the same street: No. 23, 25, 27, 29 and 31. Since 1983, Karl Lagerfeld’s relentless and renewed vision has worked together with Coco Chanel’s universe in sending thousands of designs through the rigour. Take for example the outfit seen across our pages, a little cropped top with multicoloured flowers and its accompanying pleated organza green skirt, known also simply as ‘Look 46’. Once existing only in the designer’s mind, ‘one morning in bed, I saw it in a second’, Lagerfeld says of the collection. In then putting thought to paper in just one sketch the vision was handed over to his head seamstresses whose sole mission then becomes bringing it to life. Artistry, patience and passion are all integral to the cause. Interpreted in the form of toile and then reproduced in organza, Look 46 is sent straight across to three separate ateliers: Montex, Lesage and Lognon. Each just as important as the other from Lesage where 25 hours are invested in building the sequin braid of the top, and Lognon in which 35 hours are spent pleating the organza to Montex, where an unimaginable 450 hours of work is dedicated to creating the impressive flowers in chiffon, silk tulle, sequins and glass beads. The pieces are then assembled back at the main ateliers where the look is fitted to its runway model, accessorised and then left for Lagerfeld to make his final approvals, often only the night before the show. Look 46 finally hits the stage and in one fell swoop answers questions about both our past and future. The earth green organza skirt seamlessly moves in tune with the wearer, offering the same liberation that Coco Chanel cast upon us back in 1915, where as the incomprehensible complex top showcases 21st century craftsmanship and its perplexingly beautiful space-age flower garden propels us into a wonderful new world. Dynamic and brilliant. Ready to be worn only by the valiant woman whom moves to her own beat, sets her own rules and lives entirely unconstrained by fear of the unknown - she’s you.

S t yl e I ns ider

Priya Jelly photographed at Maison Des Fleurs in En Vogue, Dubai.

Stylish Life

Founder and creative director of Maison Des Fleurs, Priya Jelly is the rose of the Middle Eastâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s flower industry. After setting up her boutique in 2014, the bespoke florist quickly became a leader in the industry and now decorates the lives of many women across the region, and beyond. Here Indian-Singaporean Priya shares her thoughts on love, flowers and leading a stylish and successful life.

What do flowers mean to you?

Tell us about weddings in your culture?

They’ve always been a part of my life, growing up we had

I attend a lot of weddings and we have many Indian ones.

them all over our home and now my husband gets me some

They’re huge and a minimum of five days. We will prepare

at least once a week, it’s our tradition! They really are the

a month or two before with dance practice… everything.

most beautiful things – fragrant and inspiring, you feel happy

It’s a full on show.

when you see them. Your favourite love story? Your favourites for spring time?

My parent’s: They first met in India and my father fell in love

Peonies and cherry blossoms but they’re both very hard

with my mother’s cooking and they then got married. My

to come by.

mother is an exceptional chef!

Where do you go to find them?

Who designed your wedding gown?

Japan, which is also one of my biggest sources of

Amato, he is a good friend of mine and he’s such a creative

inspiration. I’ve missed the cherry blossom season this

designer, I love wearing his pieces.

year but I’ll get there next time. It’s so beautiful, especially in the mountains and they really know how to do flower

How did the two of you collaborate?

arrangements.

Together we shortlisted four sketches out of an original 15, he then did every single change even up until the day

How should we pick flowers for our home?

before the wedding.

It needs to match your theme, your house, your dining table, everything. Your house reflects you and so do your flowers,

What’s your staple style for the summer ahead?

so they have to balance.

Denim. It’s always on trend, but this season I’m all about head-to-toe.

What’s the first thing you notice about someone? Actually, everywhere I go my eyes go directly to the flowers!

Any goals for the next few months?

I’ve always been spoilt for choice with fresh flowers, so now

Personally, to have a healthy body and to go to the gym more!

when I visit someone’s home it’s the first thing I look for – I

Professionally, to open a Maison de Fleurs in Abu Dhabi so

want to make sure everyone gets to see what I see.

we can respond faster to our clients there.

You’ve been married to your husband for two years and

What’s on your May reading list?

also work together, how do you make it work?

The Reluctant Empress, which is the life story of Sisi, Empress

It’s about balance. Our roles complement each other, as he

Elisabeth of Austria. My interest sparked after I went to Vienna

does the events and I do the flowers, so we’re not always

and visited her apartment, I want to find out her history.

working on top of each other. Do you have a lifestyle must-have? What builds the base of your relationship?

I go to spas for a massage weekly and have done so since I

I’ve known him for a long time, five or six years, so we have

was a child. It shouldn’t be viewed as a luxury but a lifestyle, it

a friendship too. Before he’s my husband he’s my friend, and

relaxes you and is so important for good blood flow and energy.

that’s really how it works. The basic of any relationship has to be respect – you have to really respect and trust each

What’s your every day moto?

other. Happiness and peace will follow naturally.

Just being happy, not worrying too much. Take every day as it comes.

What do you remember most about your wedding day? The moment that we exchanged our vows, my husband

Tell us something about you that we might find surprising?

forgot the ring! Which was even funnier since he was the

I love rap music! Eminem, Kanye, Jay-Z, it’s all you’ll hear

one who designed it.

in my house!

MOJEH.COM SUBSCRIBE MOJEH MAGAZINE MONTHLY IN YOUR HANDS

Pamella Roland’s soft blue affair

Finding

the one Colourful creations are coming off the catwalk, tempting brides-to-be away from the classic white wedding dress. But, as MOJEH discovers, it’s individuality that’s trumping all trends this season…

By Laura Binder

Tal k ing P o i nt

Trousers took a turn at Naeem Khan

and blue floral print, peplum waist and plunging neckline. Less surprising for Keira Knightley’s Provence guests, perhaps, was her decision to wed rocker James Righton in Chanel Haute Couture. What was surprising for the face of the Maison, though, was her low-key look – a playful tea-length design – and, moreover, the fact that she’d worn it before the big day. ‘I’d worn the dress lots,’ she told British broadsheet The Telegraph coolly. ‘It was my something old. And I liked not making a big deal about it. I just wanted to be in something I had had a great time in, something I would have a great time in again.’ Today, then, it seems it’s the bride’s individuality that’s usurping the importance of simply wearing ‘the big white dress’ – and it’s a trend that designers in this part of the world recognise too. ‘Given the centrality of the region and cultural fusions, brides here are very conscious about their sense of self, and, in turn, [their] wedding dresses,’ observes designer Orchid Ganjii of ORKALIA Haute Couture. ‘They often look for something that speaks of their own specific individuality… It’s fascinating how the changes in society are reflected in weddings.’ Syrian bridal designer Rami Al Ali – who recognises Middle Eastern weddings as a ‘grandiose and extravagant’ affair – has noticed a shift in demand too. ‘After the royal wedding I think Kate Middleton’s gown inspired a lot of brides-to-be to go for the princess-like trend. Ladies are keen to wear a dress that epitomises royalty and lets them live their dream of a fairy tale wedding,’ he says. ‘Today I also get a lot of requests for more streamlined gowns with emphasis on the waist and snug fit around the hips, giving it that surprisingly sexy appeal.’ But, despite the two opposing personas – the princess and the vamp – he says it is individuality that’s trumping the two. ‘Whilst brides-to-be take inspiration from the on-going trend, I still see that they are more drawn to choosing a dress that represents who they are and that lets them shine during their very special day.’ Such individuality was beautifully encapsulated by society girl and style icon, Olivia Palermo. When she wed her dashing German model fiancé,

Taking a petal-strewn pew at any glittering

Johannes Huebl, not even the most dedicated

wedding event today, you can feel the anticipation

fashion maven could have predicted her cool-yet-

rise as the question falls off guests’ lips: what will

chic three-piece bridal wear: a cream cashmere

she wear? For women, would-be brides and the

jumper – scattered with ostrich feathers – white

fashion-focused at least, the aisle has become

shorts and a beautifully full, tulle skirt overlay all by

akin to the catwalk – and the classic long, white

Caroline Herrera, with her hair tied in an effortless

gown is no longer de rigueur.

(though no doubt carefully coiffured) pony tail.

Take just-wed celebrity brides, for instance:

Not conforming to the classic image of ‘the bride’

when blonde British model Poppy Delevingne

is something Ganjii puts down to the evolution

invited a slew of stars along to the second leg

of the bride-to-be herself. ‘For us at ORKALIA,

of her wedding celebrations in Marrakech, few

the most radical shift came with what I like to call

could have predicted her beautiful-yet-bohemian

the emancipation of women from their traditional

Emilio Pucci gown – complete with an all-over lilac

roles in society in the past few years,’ she tells

Monique Lhuillier sends coloured creations down the catwalk

MOJEH. ‘With more pressures on girls to join the workforce and enter higher education, a sense of personal identity evolved that also created a shift in the kinds of dresses chosen, their applications and even the process of buying the wedding dress itself.’ So how did such a change affect her work as a designer? ‘We started implementing a lot more cut-outs, a lot less sparkle,’ she says. ‘You can translate that to what you like, but to me it’s a change in how women want to be perceived: Fit and strong, rather than glamorous and diva-like.’ Look to the catwalk and the season’s trends appear to appeal to the contemporary bride too, stomping all over the generic image of a demure, white wedding gown. V necks made a sexier statement at Dennis Basso and Inbal Dror, rebelling against the regal high necks of years gone by. Flesh was also unconventionally shown through peek-a-boo cut-outs in bridal bodices, while modern designers like Angel Sanchez, Rivini and Hayley Paige sent models down the runways in midriff baring crop tops and full skirts, hailing a new-look two piece. Indeed, whether Olivia Palermo started the skirt trend or was just the first celebrity brave enough to wear it, full and frothy tulle creations and super-sheer skirts looked both ethereal and suggestive over models’ long legs. Those who wish to usurp even forward-thinking Palermo in the fashion stakes may consider stepping into trousers rather than a dress: both the formal and full and skinny lace slacks strolled out, with the beaded silk georgette top and trousers from Naeem Khan proving a hit. Continuing to cover up – but perhaps not best befitting a UAE-based bride – was the trend for Rami Al Ali’s bride leaves little to the imagination

casual outerwear, from ivory motorcycle jackets to full winter coats, like Theia’s Ak Ana – a winter-

62 Zuhair Murad turned his attention to the waist

white Mongolian lamb poncho worn over a lace mermaid wedding dress. Even colour has a new stride in its step – while to date we’ve witnessed the likes of Jessica Biel, Reese Witherspoon and Gwen Stefani tying the knot in varying shades of pink, few are likely to have seen their loved-ones wed in the spectrum of tones to sashay down the spring 2015 runways: not a jot of modest blush, but blue, grey and mint green. If the catwalk carries over to real-life celebrations, the guessing game of ‘what will she wear?’ is about to get a whole lot trickier. But how much do such trends really influence the region’s brides? ‘There is a lot that brides take into consideration, outside of fashions alone when choosing their dress – be it their families and friends, the social setting and so on,’ comments Ganjii. ‘However, brides in the Middle East are just as influenced, if not more so, by international fashion trends and cultural elements as all other brides.’ The desire to be individual rather than uniform, though, looks unlikely to fade. ‘When you’re a bride-to-be, you want to stand out from the crowd and create a lasting impression with your wedding dress,’ says Al Ali. ‘As a designer, I’ve encountered different types of brides, both conventional and modern. Each one is unique: whilst it has been the norm to wear traditional long white bridal gowns, it is okay to choose a dress that best suits your personality.’ It’s a sentiment that leading wedding planner Sarah Feyling – Managing Director of Couture Events – has seen time and again in recent years. ‘While most brides opt for long white gowns I have had brides who have gone for alternate looks and style,’ she says. ‘One of my brides wore a green dress – it looked every bit like a Jumpsuits debuted at Orkalia Couture

traditional wedding dress, but it was green in colour.’ Another of her brides – Norwegian/Arabic

Olivia Palermo in her Carolina Herrera 3-piece

beauty Thea Myhrvold Thorsheim – wed just last month with a ceremony at Dubai’s Pierchic before a black tie gala dinner at the Burj Al Arab. She chose to wear not one but three dresses, made to reflect each stage of the occasion. ‘The reason for this was both practical and also because, why not?’ she laughs. ‘We went for a classic vintage-glamour look… I wanted to be true to our style and our personalities, while complementing the venue.’ After saying ‘I do’ in a ‘flowing and romantic lace and tulle dress with open back and long train’, Thea changed into her main dress, ‘a couture master piece’ handmade and crafted in Beirut. ‘I designed this personally with Mohammed Ashi of Ashi studio, the apprentice of Elie Saab and he got my vision straight away. This was my ultimate wedding dress that I couldn’t find in any store or bridal shop,’ tells Thea. Finally, a short Michael Cinco party dress stole the show as Thea danced the night away. ‘The skirt is fitted and reminiscent of a ballerina with its tight corset fit and a big skirt, beaded with flowers and sequins. Feminine and fun.’ While Thea’s bespoke creations ensured an entirely individual ensemble of outfits, the newlywed – who took inspiration from timeless icons like Grace Kelly and Audrey Hepburn – believes classic will never go out of fashion. ‘Most of the people I know have worn white,’ she says. ‘Trends come and go, white is classic and timeless for any bride. I think there is always a desire to have that bridal moment too, and to see the reaction in your husband when you walk down the aisle in that dress.’ Rosemin Manji – the fabulously-fashionable MD of the Middle East’s leading luxury management firm RR&Co – agrees. ‘Most of the weddings I attend of Emirati, Arab brides are still traditional in terms of a white gown,’ she tells MOJEH. ‘The fashion element does come in when designers such as Elie Saab or Zuhair Murad are commissioned and turn their attention to beading, embellishments and the shape of the gown.’ Modern brides’ hands-on approach and sense of identity, then, means the big day is their chance to acquire the dress of their dreams,

brides, as there are different kinds of women,’

with the help rather than dictation of catwalk

she says. ‘Cultural norms and societal changes

trends or designers. ‘A wedding day is a once

aside, there will always be an element of taste

in a lifetime event for a woman,’ nods designer

when it comes to these things; and sometimes

Al Ali. ‘Therefore when deciding which wedding

you can’t make reasons for why some prefer

dress to wear, her choice should be an epitome

one thing over another.’ Will she always make a

of who she is. As a designer, I am here to offer

place for the classic white gown among the cut

guidance but the final choice will still be based

outs of her newer collections then? ‘Definitely

on her personal style. It’s her individuality that will

yes, there will always be a desire for the classic,

bring everything together on her wedding day.’

long, white bridal dress – but as with many

Whatever the trend-of-the-moment, Orchid Ganjii

other things in the world, people have become

says it is the women of the world who will call

more open-minded to new ideas and this

the shots. ‘There will always be different kinds of

makes [bridal fashion] all the more exciting.’

Fa sh io n ban q ue t

GARDEN PARTY As the Summer of Love kicks off, we take a trip back to the relaxed outlook of the sixties. Be playful with subtle floral prints and flowing fabrics and then pare back with sophisticated accessories that lend Do the hippy shake.

CHLOĂ&#x2030;

themselves to a more contemporary feel.

6 5 4

Modern Mermaid Reimagine the classic tale of the sea this season, with shimmering blues and free flowing fabrics. Later, take the look from the beach to city with structured bags, weekend-worthy brogues and softly tailored shirt and wide leg trouser combos.

BOTTEGA VENETA

silvers offset against tranquil whites and

THE CITY Beat the heat of the city this month with loose tailoring, effortless fabrics and notable prints that speak volumes. Accessories can remain this season’s embellished take on trainers, adding an urban edge and elevating your look.

HERMÈS

sophisticated but don’t be afraid to play with

3 1

9 8

IN THE SUMMERTIME off for a seasonal break, summer whites are packing an unlikely punch this season in crisp and fresh forms. Add a little more kick with upbeat accessories, such as monochrome leathers and mosaic clutches, offering character to an otherwise streamlined look.

OSCAR DE LA RENTA

Whether youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re away on your honeymoon or simply heading

STREET STY L E

We Come

The ‘It’ accessory of the season is a friend on your arm. As models and editors proved on the streets of fashion weeks – there is nothing more fashionable than sisterhood. Who said love was only for marriage?

Models display a blossoming friendship outside the shows

Images courtesy of Valentina Frugiuele, GoRunway and ImaxTree

Together

An ankle boot affair on the streets

Raising the fashion stakes in twos

Sharp tailoring and ladylike silhouettes are a match made in heaven

Fashionable duo Anna Dello Russo and Giovanna Battaglia make a dual statement

Causing a stir in Fendi fur

Friends who wear red to together, stay together

Primary colours are the foundation of any fashionable friendship

Caroline Issa and Helena Bordon create a play on print

A partnership in polka dot

Bold statements in block colours

D e si g n er I ntervie w

Mr. Perfect He’s known for his precision, punctuality and unwavering strive for

perfection. Giorgio Armani is deservedly the most successful Italian designer of all time. In light of Armani Privé’s recent 10th couture anniversary, we meet the man behind the billion-dollar empire. By Susan Devaney

given a touch of corner elongation. The bamboo artistry delicately painted across fabric was in complete contrast to the robustly constructed bamboo-formed accessories. From handbags to earrings, the plant was positioned as the collection’s maker – some with a gleam of seventies’ Perspex. Light watercolours flowed from each design. The culture and traditions of Asia have served Armani well as fruitful inspiration over the years. ‘For this collection I was inspired by bamboo, a plant with a solid stem, to which seemingly fragile, thin and elegant leaves sprout. In this element, I saw a metaphor of how a woman should be: strong, but also not afraid to show her most fragile and delicate side. The clothes are not constrictive, but soft, and move well on the body’, he says. It’s the fluidity of Mr. Armani’s work that has been the gatekeeper to the decades of his sartorial success. He changed the way men and women dress, or view dayto-day dressing. ‘In the seventies and eighties women decidedly faced certain areas of work for the first time, ‘Perfection is an abstract concept that is difficult to

showing themselves as equal or possibly superior to men.

achieve in reality’, Mr. Armani tells me. ‘The pursuit of

They needed clothes that represented them adequately

perfection is, however, the constant stimulus that drives

in the competition with the stronger sex. This is where

my work, with the aim to get closer to true beauty. And

the idea of the power suit came from’, he recalls. With

I believe that this on-going search is an element that

his master tailoring skills in tow, he deconstructed the

is appreciated by my audience and clientele’, he says.

stiffness from suits and such: removed buttons, changed

As his haute couture spring/summer 15 collection hit

lapels, unravelled proportions and softened shoulders.

the runway, the beauty was in his perfected pieces.

He made way for wearable daily fashion. Launching

With a distinct sartorial nod to Japan, the fusion of the

the Armani label in 1975, the face of seventies’ fashion

strength and delicacy of bamboo acted as a tool of

took a decidedly fluidly fun focus. Switching between

inspiration. Bamboo shoots in natural green adorned

opposing forces, Mr. Armani brought gentleness to

tops like shutters and sprouted from heavy – near

men, and strength to women through clothes. ‘Today

floor-skimming – cardigans. Kimono-style dressing was

… women have also agreed to show their softer, feminine

prevalent as belts looped over waists and sleeves were

side, without making themselves dolls. The Armani

woman has a personal idea of seduction and style. She

of belief in his academic qualities and desire to move

is autonomous, independent and rather than turning

out of his parents’ home and earn his own money. The

to the culture of excess, she prefers something more

middle child of three, his father worked as an accountant

sophisticated, authentic and personal. I cater to her needs

for a transport company. But it was his mother who was

by offering uniquely elegant clothes that are authentic

the decisive force – like most Italian families. Embarking

and natural’, he says.

upon his first fashion role as a window-dresser for La

But Mr. Armani could have easily taken a different route.

Rinascente in Milan it acted as a catalyst for carving his

Initially studying medicine at the university of Piacenza

career. After a stint as a buyer’s assistant, he was then

he dropped out after three years. For a man of sheer

spotted by Nina Cerruti and hired as a designer for new

determination a college dropout doesn’t sit well within

menswear line, Hitman. And the rest is history.

his own descriptive story – but fate dealt him a very

Giorgio Armani has written itself into the history books.

good hand. After enrolling in two years’ compulsory

A brand that over the course of 40 years has become

military service and serving his time for the army, he never

renowned for its clean and sharp tailoring. With the

returned to complete his studies. All fuelled by his lack

success of his other lines behind him it would only

make for a savvy business decision to walk the line

would not have imagined 10 years ago, something that

of haute couture. In 2005, Mr. Armani sent his first

today brings extreme satisfaction’, he says. With long-

couture collection along the catwalk in Paris. With the

line fishtail silhouettes and flowing skirts in champagne

recent celebration (at the time) of his 70th birthday and

duchess satin, elegance was evident throughout his

the 30-year-anniversary of his label, entering couture

first couture collection 10 years ago. Necklines were

moved the brand forward into the future – but it wasn’t a

sculpted into off-the-shoulder or halterneck designs.

straightforward decision. ‘I must confess that the idea to

Bodices were beaded and jackets were embroidered

get involved in high fashion was a thought that came and

with aplomb. Year after year, Mr. Armani has unfailingly

went, because I was trying to figure out if it was the right

catered to his couture clientele. Now, 10 years later and

choice at the time’, he recalls with honesty. ‘In hindsight,

Mr. Armani’s move into couture still remains fairy tale-

I can say that it was the right choice, an important step

like: ‘Even today, haute couture remains a dream, the

in my career. Today my Privé collection has a solid and

ultimate expression of the best artisan craftsmanship, the

real clientele of women who have a special lifestyle and

heritage of know-how linked to the purest of creativity

need clothes that fit the bill. It’s a result that perhaps I

and imagination’, he says. ‘This aspect has not changed.

More than anything else, I find that the change in recent

sense is in complete opposition of him: it’s simple. Day-

years has been the occasions in which such significant

to-day it’s not unusual to see Mr. Armani wearing a simple

clothes are worn. Today there are many more events for

plain t-shirt paired with jeans – or a fine navy blue suit.

which it is appropriate to wear haute couture clothing,

His style is modestly discreet – like him. Having previously

from the red carpet and cocktail parties to private gallery

stated that he valued discretion above all things, his own

openings and social events. It is the reason why I offer

fashion evidently evokes this mind set, as too do his

exquisite garments that are also suitable for daywear in

multiple fashion lines. Elegance and simplicity are at the

my collection’, he concludes. For spring/summer 15,

heart of his work. ‘At the base of each collection, whether

daywear pieces were evident throughout his designs.

it is haute couture or prêt-à-porter, there is always an

From softly tailored trousers to plissé jackets, it’s occasion

idea that needs to be materialised. The starting point

dressing at its finest.

is thus always a two-dimensional sketch, from which

‘These ten years of Armani Privé have passed quickly,

something three-dimensional can then be created. It

and saw me ride a wave of a great creative impulse’,

is after this stage you start to work with the shapes,

Mr. Armani recalls. ‘For me, each season represented

textures, finishes and volumes, always keeping in mind

the acquisition and improvement of a new language that

the basic requirements of my style, or rather comfort,

offers versions of the sophisticated naturalness of my style

function and beauty’, he says. From Emporio Armani to

in a subtle and exquisite manner. Over time, my vision of

Giorgio Armani Privé, he has a host of lines to creatively

high fashion has taken on a new idea of seduction and

consider. ‘Clearly there are differences between Giorgio

become open to the unexpected nature of eccentricity,

Armani Privé and the other lines. The ready-to-wear

while maintaining a consistent base, namely the idea of

collection is industrially produced at a very high level,

the naturalness of apparel that must never be a disguise,

while for Privé each garment is custom made in an atelier.

but rather a completion of the person’, he concludes.

Haute couture, being a laboratory for experimentation,

Looking back the Armani brand has achieved a wealth of

gives me the opportunity to fully liberate the imagination

creativity. Most importantly, Mr. Armani has never waned

and create exquisite clothes, those of dreams – for which

from his original aesthetic. Since their first show in 2005

hours and hours of work are required – for just a handful

the number of looks created has more than doubled: 31

of customers’, he says.

back then, 68 now. A game of numbers has been central

Buying and selling ‘the dream’ lifestyle has been integral

to the building of the Armani Empire. This ‘great creative

to the Armani brand since it’s inception. Do you remember

impulse’ has extended to everything: from cosmetics

Richard Gere and his fashionable attire in the cinematic

to cafes to hotels to nightclubs, the Armani touch has

classic American Gigolo? Of course, you do. The 1980

crossed continents and every aspect of daily life.

film launched the Armani brand into another level of

But most days he wears navy blue. For a man with a

success. The narcissistic character of Julian Kaye used

complex mind and a creative outlook his personal dress

his sense of style to squash all of his social insecurities.

Photographed by Pascal Le Segretain, Getty.

From his über cool sports jackets to seriously slick suits,

Men and women have gradually freed themselves from

Gere played a man you wanted to know, wanted to

protocols and rigidity, while finding different ways to

date, and really wanted to be. The message was clear:

express their personality. I aim to always keep up with

the Armani brand was and is part of a lifestyle choice.

the times, without altering the essential characteristics

This choice has also witnessed the formation of the

of my philosophy and aesthetic’, he concludes. And

Armani woman: she’s elegant, understated and oozes

therein lies the backbone to the success of the Armani

sheer sophistication. The type of characteristics wholly

label. Yes, Mr. Armani has moved with the times, but his

executed by Hollywood actresses Cate Blanchett and

vision has remained the same.

Julianne Moore who’ve both been adorned in his designs.

As Mr. Armani ‘aims to get closer to true beauty’ he will

Without regret Mr. Armani doesn’t speak English. He has

undoubtedly retain his crown as the most successful

always adamantly refused to learn. Keeping his fluent

Italian designer of all time. In the near future, Mr. Armani

linguistic skills to Italian and French. That’s the thing

will celebrate the 40th anniversary of his label: ‘…a

about him: he does what he wants to do. This includes

major event for which I will be involved in a series of

keeping the foundations of his vision the same since

events, starting with the large fashion show to be held

day one. Describing the Armani style of today, he says:

at the opening of EXPO Milano 2015. In the meantime

‘…a style characterised by the continuous search for

I am working diligently, looking to the future.’ Having

harmonious lines, innovative materials, sophistication

previously said that he ‘hoped Armani can live without

and quality. I would say that my idea of style and tastes

me’ his perfected vision will be a hard act to follow – for

are the same as when I started: they express a deep

anyone. You can see it in his manner, his outlook, and his

appreciation for all that is simple and straightforward.

work: the need for perfection is ingrained within him. Mr.

However since 1975, the times have certainly changed.

Armani’s perfected complexities are his own true beauty.

M o j eh W o man

Mad About The Woman Outspoken and fearless. Those are the principal

their relationship, Theron gushed, ‘It just

character traits that define Charlize Theron, here we

kind of naturally happened, and before

speak to the actress about her new movie, motherhood

making my life better – the people who

and being in love.

I knew it, I was in something that was really love me can see the effect it has had on me.’ One of the key early moments in Mad Max: Fury Road comes when Max and Furiosa battle it out in the dirt before she is willing to join forces with him. ‘This is not just two people standing there hitting each other,’ explained writer-

Charlize Theron is the South African

her fiercer, feminist side. ‘The original Mad

of which one of them is going to survive...

amazon, whose brazen attitude towards

Max created such a vivid world... George

I remember thinking (when Theron was

life is every bit a match for her striking

(Miller) really created a female character

driving the war rig back to base camp

beauty. The Oscar-winning Monster

that I’ve never read anything like [before],’

during the production and he was sitting

actress is one of those frighteningly

Theron declared with respect to her

behind her), ‘She is the Imperator, and if

independent women who behaves as

taking on the role of Imperator Furiosa.

this was a real wasteland and we were at

if she could take on any man and tends

‘It’s a really challenging piece of material.

war, I’d be really happy she’s on our side.’

to swear like one, too. Directors and co-

Originally...I was like, ‘Uh, I’m not going

Miller added, ‘I can’t really think of another

stars have described 39-year-old Theron

to play the girl for Mad Max. Then I read it

character in cinema quite like her. I’m sure

as a an outspoken woman, but one

and I was like, ‘Oh, Mad Max. I feel sorry

that other people might find connections,

with enormous talent and sensitivity, as

for you.’ That rarely happens… It’s two

but just the way the character was

anyone who has seen her performances

great characters. It’s not the original Mad

conceived, and how Charlize took it on

in films like The Burning Plane or Young

Max. It’s the revamped Mad Max. It’s Tom

and transformed herself and played it,

Adult could attest.

Hardy, who’s incredible. So, the whole

she did it with such authority. There have

Theron is about to achieve another

thing is just exciting, very, very exciting.’

been great female action characters, but

career milestone with her appearance in

Theron’s naturally self-confident and

there’s just been nothing quite like this.’

Mad Max: Fury Road, director George

assertive personality explains why her

Theron has long been known for her

Miller’s highly anticipated remake of his

boyfriend Sean Penn may well be the ideal

determined advocacy for women’s rights

own original 1979 Mad Max film and cult

man for her. He’s a notorious bad boy

and specifically for greater opportunities

classic that helped propel Mel Gibson to

whose previous relationships with Robin

for women in Hollywood. Never married,

Hollywood stardom. This time around,

Wright and Madonna were known for

she has openly dismissed the idea of

British actor Tom Hardy takes on the

being as torrid as they were tumultuous.

“the white dress” and is a committed

iconic role while Charlize Theron plays

Theron and Penn’s romance first heated

spokesperson on gender and age equality.

the female desert warrior who joins

up when they vacationed together in

She also disdains the prevailing climate

Hardy’s Max Rockatansky in an epic

Hawaii over a year ago over New Year’s

of discrimination against older women.

road war in their joint effort to cross the

– since then they’ve been virtually

Declared Theron, ‘Women find their

wasteland. For Theron, the film gave her

inseparable, attending various awards

strength and power in their sexuality, in

the chance to throw herself into the kind

functions and other events as a couple.

their sensuality within, [through] getting

of supercharged powerful role that suits

In her most serious comment regarding

older and being secure within that.

Fred Allen / The Interview People

director George Miller. ‘This is a question

Photo by Stuart Wilson/Getty Images

Theron at the world premiere of Prometheus

88 Theron and Sean Penn at the 4th Annual Sean Penn & Friends Help Haiti Home Gala Benefiting J/P Haitian Relief

arguable the hottest and highest-profile cast member. Charlize Theron will now earn the same salary as co-star Chris Hemsworth in The Huntsman, a prequel to 2012’s Snow White and the Huntsman. Theron’s personal life underwent an upheaval five years ago when she split with actor Stuart Townsend after a nineyear relationship. She didn’t work for nearly three years around the time of her break-up before resuming her career with films like The Burning Plain and Young Adult. It was during that time that she adopted a four-month-old baby boy in 2012 whom she subsequently named

‘The thing that caught me totally unprepared was the impact and intensity of this change in my life. Being a mother has struck me at a very deep level.’

Jackson. Sean Penn recently filed papers to become the three-year-old boy’s adoptive father. Stated Theron, ‘I’m so happy to be a mother... It’s so amazing to finally reach this point in my life and be able to enjoy this incredible experience.

better they get. It’s such a misconception,

that caught me totally unprepared was the

world around 20-year-olds, when they

and it’s such a lost opportunity because

impact and intensity of this change in my

have no idea yet about wisdom, what

that’s when I think women are really in the

life. Being a mother has struck me at a

life is about, having a few relationships

true moment of their sensuality.’ As proof

very deep level. I mean, to hold a young

below [their] belt and feeling hardships,

of practicing what she preaches in terms

child that grows slowly and then starts

to grow into [their] skin and feel confident

of standing up to Hollywood’s patriarchal

talking and looking at the world around

within [themselves] and to feel the value

studio system, Theron recently negotiated

him is something absolutely incredible.’

of who [they] are, not because of a man

a $10 Million paycheck for her work in

‘I want to be that example for my son.

or because of something like that. And I

the upcoming film The Hunstsman, after

I want him to grow up with a mum that

think that’s such a beautiful thing.’

last November’s Sony hack revealed that

he could see and look at her life with

‘That’s why I think people say women

top Hollywood actresses were receiving

all the mistakes and with all the failures

come into their prime in their 40s. And

less pay than their male co-stars. Even

and all the flaws and say, ‘My mum lived

then for some reason our society just

veteran industry observers were shocked

an authentic life. That was the life she

wants to go… it’s like a dead flower.

to learn that Jennifer Lawrence was paid

wanted to live.’ Theron is also adamant

It’s like we wilt for some reason. And men

less than her male costars in the Oscar-

that being a mother hasn’t affect her

are like fine wines – the older they get, the

nominated American Hustle despite being

screen choices. ‘I don’t look at material

Photo by Chris Polk/Getty Images for J/P Haitian Relief Organization

I’m overjoyed!’ She added, ‘But the thing It’s ironic that we’ve built the beauty

Theron & Sean Penn out in Los Angeles

and go, ‘This is too dark, I have a kid now, because my interests still are my interests. That doesn’t make me a bad mother. I think that makes me a really good mother, because when I go and creatively satisfy myself and those interests, I come home satisfied. And I can be a really good mother to him because I’m happy.” Theron, an only child, grew up on a farm in South Africa with a French father she has characterized as an abusive alcoholic. In 1991, Gerda, her German mother, fatally shot him after he came home in a drunken rage and threatened to kill her and the then-15-year-old Theron. Authorities ruled the slaying was self-defense, and Gerda was never prosecuted. Theron has remained close to her mother during her time in Hollywood and has never lost sight of her mother’s courage and profound influence on her. ‘She has taught me to stand up for myself and be courageous. I’m not someone who indulges in self-pity and I hate it if I ever start feeling sorry for myself. I was raised in a way that I should Photo by Dimitrios Kambouris/Getty Images for One View

never allow myself to be the victim, but to take responsibility for my decisions and my actions and live as boldly as possible.’ ‘My mother has given me a lot of guidance on that level. She’s someone who believes in not dwelling on the past and getting on with your life. I’m trying to live in those terms. I want to live the way I want to and not think back 50 years from now [and wonder] why I didn’t live my life when I had the chance. You have to be willing to go through the highs and lows and keep moving forward.’ When Theron was

90 Theron at the A Million Ways to Die in the West photocall in Los Angeles

struggling to find good acting parts in her 20s she often dealt with the perception that she was a former model, though never a particularly successful one, and too pretty and striking for most roles. But when 2 Days in the Valley (1996) earned her immediate recognition, leading to subsequent roles in The Devils’ Advocate, opposite Keanu Reeves, in 1997 and Woody Allen’s Celebrity the year after, Theron was on her way. She credits her mother with giving her both moral and financial support to help her hang in there before her career took off. ‘I may have been insecure in finding myself as a teenager, or early-20s person, but I always had a very strong sense of what I felt was inside me,’ she says. ‘My mum always used to tell me, ‘You have a foundation, and the foundation is there because of who you are, not because of what people think you are.’ And it’s the kernel of that truth, of your truth – of knowing who you are, deep down – that lets you not pay that much attention to what people perceive in you.’ As for Sean? ‘He is very close to his children. But I was not looking for a babysitter, I was looking for a partner. friends who wanted to get married, for whom marriage was a major milestone. It never meant anything to me, I’ve tried a different way.’ ‘I don’t like [sympathy] for myself. Sometimes sympathy can feel like you’re trying to kind of victimize someone. I don’t know, maybe it’s just my own [stuff]

Photo by Venturelli/Getty Images

I can pay for a babysitter! I have lots of

Theron at the 65th Festival di Sanremo 2015

that I have to deal with, but I think that, more than anything, people just want to be understood, you know?’ These feelings root back to her childhood. ‘I grew up in a house with an alcoholic [father]. And I experienced a lot of people being overly sympathetic, and for me, sympathy and pity – there’s a very, very fine line between the two. Maybe I was being ultra-sensitive, but the way I was treated then, the way people looked at me, it made me feel weak. And I was not a fan of that feeling at all. I’m still not.’ ‘[There’s this misconception that] I’m a dark and bitchy kind of woman. I’ve played dark people in the past... and I’m nothing like that. Most directors are constantly surprised when they meet me and get a chance to hang out with me for

‘I’ve always used humour as a refuge and as a way of overcoming or getting past a lot of the darker, sadder things that life can throw at you.’

a while. I have a reputation for having a very raw sense of humour and I kind of

Photo by Armando Gallo/Corbis

use that to my advantage. I’ve always used humour as a refuge and as a way

the pressure of media attention is a small

‘I’m not sure that happiness is [the] goal.

of overcoming or getting past a lot of

downside that I simply need to ignore. It

It’s not the kind of state of being that you

the darker, sadder things that life can

cannot and should not in any way affect

can necessarily control. You try to do the

throw at you.’

my choices. The only priority that I have is

things in life which please you and the best

‘For me, fame has no value. I never read

my happiness and my son.’

you can hope for is that you’re going to be

anything into it than what it is. I don’t

‘I don’t think that life is that happy in general.

happy on some general level. Life takes

even know what it really means... In my

It’s always going to be a struggle and you

you in many different directions and not all

position you can’t manage it all, much

have to hang on to those moments where

of them are going to be good. You’re going

less being able to control the media and

the world seems wonderful rather than

to have to deal with very tough times and

that sort of thing. Life is never as rational

grim. And even when things look bad, you

sad moments because that’s just inevitable

as you would like it’. Like many of her

shouldn’t let yourself get caught up in that

and life is like that. You have to find the

peers in the industry, Theron is well aware

because it won’t help you deal with things.

strength and determination to move past

of those less privileged than her, and

You need to be able to pick yourself up off

the difficult times and stay positive so that

works for numerous African charities and

the floor and get on with things. That’s the

you can enjoy all the good moments. I’m

sees how ambitions and expectations

attitude and life philosophy I’ve picked up

feeling good about things now and I’m

are dashed every day in life. ‘In my case

from my mother.’

open and looking forward to the future.’

Fa sh i o n i n F o cus

Models backstage at Giambattista Valli Haute Couture showcase Cinderella esque dresses in polite pastel shades.

‘I’m more interested in the aspect of fairy tale fashion which seems to be becoming more and more common in collections now’, says Valerie Steele, fashion historian and director of the museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York City. For haute couture spring/summer 15, a fairy talelike veil covered the mood of the season – taking on the good versus the bad. ‘I think there are different takes on various different stories. The interpretations can be very different. Little Red Riding Hood could be an icon of innocence or sexuality. There’s a lot of rich material in fairy tales that still appeals to all of us,’ she explains. A sea of foaming tulle Cinderellaesque dresses in polite pastel shades by Giambattista Valli were sent down the runway - but black netting shielded models’ faces. His mantra was clear: bigger is better. A look not to be adopted by the faint-hearted, the dresses spoke of a princess-like moment. Imagining a conversation between Coco Chanel and seventies singer Janis Joplin acted as the backbone to his inspiration – both having lived out their own fairy tales in the real world. Ruffled shoulders and voluminous cloqué skirts flowed in between designs as shades of sugar almonds were paired with a sombre colour. It was a contrast in combinations.

One Way Or Another One way or another, we all hope for a happy ending. From

Moving from soft tulle to smooth velvet, textured pieces were streamlined at Valentino. Many of the pieces took a distinctive Russian influence from the artwork of Marc Chagall with heavily embroidered fabrics in richly decadent colours and fabrics. With a folklore theme dancing across designs, designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli walked a fine line between fantasy and reality. Love poems of many centuries ago were embroidered across chiffon and lace textures. The fairy tale touch was felt: Bodices became restricted with scalloped edges as waists were nipped in and highlighted. The focus on the bodice was fresh as modern guises took to the catwalk. ‘Like

Valentino to Elie Saab, designers weaved their own fashion

the high-heeled shoe, it’s a prime symbol

fairy tales this season. For haute couture spring/summer 15

that designers will play with it’, says

the collections witnessed a play-off between femininity and androgyny. Will you play the part of the princess or the prince?

of erotic femininity. It’s not surprising Steele. The corset has never truly faded into the background. With couture and bridal going hand-in-hand, it’s not entirely surprising to see a sartorial sign that it’s back. ‘Every couple of

94 Model Kasia Struss walks for Versace in a flattering fusion of masculine meets feminine in the form of a Seventies’ style white suit.

pointing fashion towards über femininity. One to always play with the feminine, designer Elie Saab ruffled feathers and splattered designs in sequins. Tulips acted as a totem for multiple creations as they adorned many a pastel-dusted gown. He placed emphasis on the waist with fine leather belts (a trend that looks set to continue into 2015). It was a subtle touch, but Saab is never one to fail in his dabbling with the fantasy of a fairy tale. As too did Zuhair Murad, as he turned his attention to the waist as pleats folded across hips and silver belts buckled above hips. Concluding with a fairy tale gown of epic proportions – one worthy of any wedding – inspired by One Thousand and One Nights, the diameter of the dress blocked the runway. Shimmering in a light creamcome-gold it would make any bride’s fantasy become reality on their Big Day. W ith a wave of Victoriana, the stiff boning of corsetry could be seen at Armani Privé. Bamboo acted as a tool of inspiration for Giorgio Armani, the rigid resemblance of the plant formed the structure of corset-like bodices in green. Similarly, Alexandre Vauthier played with the bodice to heighten sex appeal. Decked out in black, fabric was tightened across waists and cut-out of hipbones as structures ador ned the torso with a lack of cautiousness – every piece highlighting the female form in full. But couture hasn’t gone full-throttle into falling back in love with the hourglass shape and the corset. Like a fairy tale, there’s always two opposing forces. Designs moved from accentuated bodices to freely fluid fabric falling across torsos. The feeling of a contrasting and conflicting mood was

seasons you see the resurgence of

incorporated throughout every aspect

the corset. Women wore the corset

of the couture collections. From one

for about 400 years and gradually soft

extreme to the next, collections ventured

girdles and bras replaced it. Then in the

into a realm of androgyny with ease.

seventies with the punks they started

Jean Paul Gaultier’s collection was a

bringing back corsetry as a reference

full-blown bridal party. He posed the

to sexual fetishes – that was picked up

question: which type of bride will you

by designers like Vivienne Westwood

be? Will you be an all white bride? Or

and Jean Paul Gaultier. Since that time

opt for a bomber jacket paired with blue

corsetry has played an optional role in

jeans instead? Playing with gender roles

high fashion and remerges into fashion

is always successful when it is done by

every few seasons as a kind of icon of

Mr. Gaultier. There are no boundaries.

erotic femininity; sometimes historicising

W ith little black numbers sitting like

it and romanticising it with Victoriana.

tailored suits on one side of the body

It’s a dominatrix-like system – it changes

and then reversed to resemble a dress

according to the particular designer’,

on the other side, it’s classic JPG at

she says. Rediscovering the waist is

his best. From start to finish, his take

Models backstage at Stephane Rolland evoke a play-off between streamline and fluid silhouettes.

The final look from Bouchra Jarrar was a stunning white bridal suit.

Masculine versus feminine backstage at Jean Paul Gaultier.

on feminine-masculine hybrids were endless. Suit jackets paired with emerald green satin floor-skimming skirts. Long python textured jackets juxtaposed against barely-there undergarments, or tumbling white tulle skirts with silk navy blue tuxedo style jackets. An art-like corset structure in satin boning was the pièce de résistance as it played a game of two halves across the body. As fairy tales have adapted to the modern day, as too has the world of couture. White bridals suits were commonplace – with designer Bouchra Jarrar opting for a wonderfully white suit as the final design to walk the runway. Always one to adorn her models in a creative cloud

96 Jean Paul Gaultierâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s take on feminine-masculine hybrids were endless.

Silhouettes at Christian Dior were met in stark opposition.

98 Beautiful embellishment adorned many a fairy tale-like gown at Zuhair Murad.

Bodices were given an ultramodern approach at Valentino.

of androgyny, Jarrar didn’t disappoint. But she did surprise with an evening gown actually making the cut onto the runway (a first for Jarrar). Like Jean Paul Gaultier she played with a palette mainly composed of monochrome. But it was the bridal suit that stood out as it enveloped the body with ease – oozing that Parisian chic appeal. Playing on curves, the female body took shape in stark silhouettes at Versace. Moving from patriotic colours of blue, red and white, (and a stroke of black) fabrics looked painted on. But the white bridal suit – with its definite reference to the iconic white suit wearer Bianca Jagger – a flattering fusion of masculine meets

One to always play with the feminine, designer Elie Saab ruffled feathers and splattered designs in sequins.

feminine. Modelled by Kasia Struss it had the perfected seventies’ kick-flare and tailored to perfection as it nipped in

Restricted corsets were opposed against loose shapes at Armani Privé.

at the waist. In short: it has sex appeal – but we wouldn’t have expected anything less from Donatella. With all great fairy tales comes darkness. There was only one collection that black didn’t touch. Dramatic silhouettes and hauntingly dark colours made the constructed vision of couture for spring 2015. A sombre mood was meshed across creations in the form of black. Designers flaunted the tone from fabric to fabric. As much as the lightness of the fairy tale mood was felt, designers couldn’t refrain from entering into the secluded darkness. It’s the first time in as many seasons the colour has largely composed the creative vernacular of every designer. Karl Lagerfeld paired black with pops of colour. It was another tur ning of the wheel of Lagerfeld’s reinvention. The runway itself was a metropolis, of paper. As gardeners appeared with khaki watering-less cans and straw hats, a Chanel-filled world sprang into bloom. Although florals touched everything (from hats to bags), the black fabric brought into the fold a sombre sophistication. The linear structure of a fairy tale will always denote the good versus the bad, and depict fantasy against reality – something the world of couture is attuned to achieving. A sense of sadness was reflected from many a collection as designers spoke of generating a sense of hope for the future as they conflicted with reality. In the 21st century, do women want to play the prince or princess? W ith weddings comes the fairy tale fantasy to which the corset is intrinsically

the bridal suit took its firm place as it

linked. With a sudden increase in corset

graced many a runway in wonderfully

sales across the board it’s not just the

white shades. It was a play-off between

world of couture whose attention is

the prince and the princess. This appeal

tur ning toward the iconic Victoriana

towards the alternative worlds created

creation. But the resurgence of such

in fairy tales has always captured and

an iconic item usually indicates the

retained our attention. For a multi-billion

political landscape of fashion in its

dollar industry, the profit on couture

current culture. As fashion steams

clothes has been estimated at around

ahead with genderless designs and a

1 percent or less. Like a true fairytale,

lack of boundaries, when it comes to

the story weaved by the artisans is all

femininity and masculinity, the corset is

for love as couture remains truthfully

still a symbol of feminine sexuality. Even

historic and traditional. Couture will

though the beautifully crafted couture

always play with the fairy tale by

gowns were given a sense of doom

weaving a different fantastical tale

through a palette of black, the fairy tale

for us every season. It’s what couture

ending shone through. In its opposition,

does best, with a happy ending.

Free love Photographed by Olivier Rose Styled by Guillaume Boulez

Shirt, skirt and bangles, HERMÃ&#x2C6;S | Belt, RALPH LAUREN | Boots, LOUIS VUITTON

Top, MIU MIU | Bangles, HERMÃ&#x2C6;S

Dress, boots and earrings, LOUIS VUITTON

Jacket and culottes, GUCCI | Hat, HERMÃ&#x2C6;S

Dress, CÃ&#x2030;LINE

Dress, EMILIO PUCCI

Dress, CHRISTIAN DIOR | Boots, LOUIS VUITTON

Dress and necklace, LANVIN | Hat, Stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own

Shirt, EMANUEL UNGARO | Shorts, VERSACE | Shoes, HERMÃ&#x2C6;S | Scarf, FORGET-ME-NOT

Model: Zippora Seven at IMG Hair stylist: Chiao Chenet Make-up artist: Virginie Rascle Digital: Regis Houzet at 42 Digital Answers Photographer’s assistant: Olivia Drouot Stylist’s assistant: Pierre Brejoux Production: Louis Agency

112

Look at Me Now Photographed by Antoine & Balthazar Styled by Guillaume Boulez

Dress, CHRISTIAN DIOR COUTURE

114

Top and trousers, ARMANI PRIVÃ&#x2030;

Top, skirt and shoes, CHANEL COUTURE

116

Dress, VIKTOR & ROLF

118

Dress, RALPH & RUSSO

Dress and belt, ELIE SAAB

120

Dress and shoes, JEAN PAUL GAULTIER

Dress, ULYANA SERGEENKO

122

Dress and shoes, SCHIAPARELLI

Top and skirt, STEPHANE ROLLAND

124

Dress, ATELIER VERSACE

Catsuit, CHRISTIAN DIOR COUTURE

Model: Stephanie Joy Field at NEXT Models Hair stylist: Rodolphe Farmer Make-up artist: Céline Exbrayat Photographer’s assistant: Victor Mirabel Stylist’s assistant: Pierre Brejoux Production: Louis Agency

126

CO UT U RE FO C U S

Fantasy Versus Function While coutureâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s longstanding tradition of sending whimsical gowns down the runway wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t fade away, a new, and more wearable, day-time appropriate breed of haute couture is seen on the catwalk. Which way will you look?

A classic white gown is made all the more modern when paired with a white clutch, as seen at Ralph & Russo.

Giambattista Valli creates mystique with a couture-take on the masquerade ball.

A necklace that falls down the back plays up backless dresses. The ultimate in subtle seduction.

A nude heel remains a staple in any wardrobe. StĂŠphane Rolland adds interest with playful straps.

Elie Saabâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cuff will serve to steal the limelight and get the flashbulbs going. A sure fire way to step up your after-dark accessorising.

Bold jewels are the best way to update an outfit for evening. Channel Christian Dior with a striking bib necklace.

128

Chanel adds a couture allure to a street style star, ensuring the beanie is on all our wish lists. High fashion is fully embracing flats and Elie Saab helps the style set turn towards more comfortable footwear.

As summer approaches we look to shade our eyes, luckily for us Schiaparelli has given us lust worthy couture sunglasses.

Hats were seen throughout the shows and Jean Paul Gaultier revises headwear with satin.

Menswear-inspired footwear sees no sign of slowing down, with Bouchra Jarrar sending us a luxe take on brogues.

The modern woman needs to have her hands free, so Armani sends models down the runway with nonchalance in mind.

130

M o st D es i r ed

YEPREM

GOLDEN TEMPLE With beginnings in 1968, Yeprem Chakardemian tells us how a simple gold bracelet from his mother led him down the path to creating Lebanesebased fine jewellery brand Yeprem. ‘I remoulded my inheritance into a pristine ornament’ Chakardemian tells us, ‘and [I] caught a glimpse of my destiny: creating luxurious jewellery by using the female body as a shrine.’ Since then the brand has flourished, with stars such as Rihanna and Jennifer Lopez becoming fans. Yeprem has built a fan base on its intricate use of white gold and Marquise-cut diamonds, eschewing trend-led pieces and remaining loyal to its own design DNA. Keeping it in the family, Chakardemian’s own children entered the fold as designers. This was crucial in ‘designs [taking] on an even more creative turn’ says Chakardemian, and as a result ‘we became a trendsetter.’ From simple earrings to statement hand jewels, Yeprem is the brand that both stars and women in the know turn to when looking for a timeless piece of jewellery to last a lifetime. ‘Our goal is to have a flagship in all countries across the globe,’ reveals Chakardemian – and until then you can get your fix at Harvey Nichols Dubai.

Rula GALAYINI THE ILLUSIONIST

Raised between Canada, Cyprus and Lebanon, the Dubai-based Lebanese designer Rula Galayini brings a unique international outlook to her namesake accessory label. With a background that includes holding the title of design director of Fashion Forward, Dubaiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s answer to Fashion Week, Galayini no doubt took inspiration and a wealth of knowledge along the way in order to launch the accessory brand in February 2015. The label has quickly evolved into an internationally cherished bag brand featuring a strong focus on architectural designs. Galayiniâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s past experience studying graphic design is evident in pop-art colours and structural shapes. Combining the aesthetics of a clutch and jewellery, the Cuff collection uses a handle for wearers to slip in to, adding both interest and function to the clutches, while the ARTiculate collection is inspired by minimalism and features geometric shapes that let through a peek of statement colours, blurring the boundaries between sculpture and fashion along the way. The Chrysalis line draws inspiration from nature, with the vibrant colours of the exotic butterfly evident below the surface. Galayini brings together a statement collection that will appeal to fashion fans with an interest in art and nature. Which style will you try your hand at this summer?

132

J e w ellery T r end

Wild At Heart Nothing answers the calls of high bohemia quite like high jewels, especially those that draw inspiration from the over-grown and wild fields of summer. Try your hand at gold and diamond pieces, reminiscent of the blazing sun, or for something a little closer to home, green enamelled finds mixed with sunflower shaped diamond rings are the perfect accessories for free-flowing summer gowns.

Clockwise from top let: Diva earrings with round mounted diamond and round mounted setting pave, set on pink gold, BVLGARI | Orient Orchid ring with green turquoise, yellow sapphire, tsavorites, blue sapphires, grey diamonds, black diamonds and white diamonds, set on 18K gold, WENDY YUE, available at Harvey Nichols â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Dubai | Reverso Duetto Classique watch with diamond, set on 18K pink gold, with a white satin strap, JAEGER-LECOULTRE | Sole earrings with white diamonds, set on pink gold, DE GRISOGONO | Lady Arpels Jour Nuit CerfVolant watch with diamonds and mother-of-pearl, set on white gold, with a pink alligator strap, VAN CLEEF & ARPELS | Secret Garden ring with white diamonds set on 18K white gold, HUEB, available at Harvey Nichols â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Dubai

134

J e w el s in M ot ion

The Rose in our

Stars

Away from the runways and gowns during March’s Paris Fashion week, we met with Dior’s fine and high jewellery creative director Victoire de Castellane. She tells us about Christian Dior’s superstitious nature and how it inspired her latest creations, the Rose des Vents.

We’re here to celebrate the launch of Rose des

understand why and I also think that it’s nice to

Vents, can you tell us the story?

see this in his personality. He looks like a classic

Well I’ll start with the inspiration. I was in the garden

man but this idea is a little fragile and that’s why I

by the pond in the Conville house where I noticed

was drawn towards designing around it.

the Rose des Vents and I liked the combination of different identities mixed together – the rose with the

Who is the woman that will wear these pieces?

emblematic flowers, and the star, Christian Dior’s le

I think it’s for every woman. Every woman can wear

coinstar, his lucky charm. He found his lucky star

these collections, it’s easy, it’s delicate, you can

in the street and then built his house afterwards.

wear it in many different ways, mother, grandmother,

Together the rose, star, pond and the compass are

granddaughter.

a very nice story. What does colour mean to you? Like you said, the collection is inspired by

I love colour and I think it was nice to have a stronger

Christian Dior’s superstitious nature and his

colour scheme here, such as lipid blue, jaqua and

own lucky star. Do you share his superstitions?

pastel. It’s for women who want to have something

Maybe just a little. I’m not superstitious but I

really fresh and something that can be soft and melts

into your skin – this especially works with the mother

my grandmother was always wearing Dior, so I see

of pearl and opal rose.

myself wearing this as a little girl and meeting Dior. So I reimagine it in a young and fresh way.

In the Middle East turquoise is superstitious with the evil eye. What does it mean to you?

What do you want to offer women through your

I love turquoise; it’s a very strong colour. It’s natural

collections?

and hard to find in precious stones. And everyone

For me, not wearing ‘mumsy’ jewellery is a must.

knows turquoise.

The wrong jewellery can add an extra 20 years or more, so I always want to help women with pieces

Do you feel you are with him, Mr Dior?

that can be real, precious, and fantastic in quality

I always think of him as we’re in his house, and for

and also look sexy and young. As I’m a woman and

me, I always imagine what he would say if he came

I know myself that I never want to wear something

back. You can’t forget the people who built the spirit

and think, ‘maybe it makes me look 20 years older’.

of the house, it’s important to respect the designer. It’s complicated, but I’m not in too much torture

You work a lot with the rose, what does a rose

over it, I think its very light and fun and of course

mean to you?

136

The rose is the emblematic flower for Christian Dior.

with different stones you know but as I was coming

For me it’s the most feminine flower and the most

from a fashion background of 14 years creating

symbolic flower for the woman and as we are in a

costume jewellery I always aimed to put a more

very feminine house it’s important to keep this but

fashionable and sexy spin on fine jewellery. I don’t

mix it with modernity. That’s the most difficult thing

like to follow trends but instead a movement, to

to do as it needs to found at every level, if even in

be a visionary. It doesn’t have to be real, that’s the

a subtle way. We can say that the rose is a very

beauty of working in couture.

well known flower but she can also be a mysterious one. Its important for me to take out that mystery

Why is it so important to have women heading

sometimes and look for different moods.

the jewellery industry? I think that women are speaking to women and I

Your department was created in 1998, you were

think that women can do a lot of things differently.

coined as an ‘enfant terrible’, bold and brilliant to

You can be a man but with very feminine sensibility,

be able to revive the industry, how did you do it?

but sometimes you have men designing jewellery

I was at the time! I was arriving in the jewellery world

who have no sensibility and for me it doesn’t work. I

and a point when everything was very classical and

think that women are close to other women and they

very, maybe I can say boring? No one was playing

know if it’s going to be unwearable and we know we

‘

‘The story is going to be developed, and Rose des Vents, is an entirely new chapter.’

like to change and can be a different woman each

21st century jewellery is all about story

day, not fixed. What I love with the feminine universe

telling, what chapter in the history of Dior

is that we have so many possibilities and we can

does this collection signify?

find so many different personalities for women and

Well, the story is going to be developed, and

for me this is a fantastic inspiration. I love to create

Rose des Vents, is an entirely new chapter – I

for women who don’t like to wear jewellery, who

love to push identities when I have something

love jewellery and all these kinds who love fashion,

to say on it, they are all important. I only create

don’t love fashion, intellectual. I’m also so happy

what I believe in. Rose des Vents is maybe

that women in the Middle East love jewellery, it’s part

just an adorable collection of delicate things.

of your couture and it’s a language we’re sharing.

It’s going to be diamond and yellow diamond

It’s really a treasure and that’s why I love to create

but I’m not going to make it huge – earrings

for women, I’m making a little treasure for them.

and rings.

Does it push you to continually move forward?

It’s so discrete; it almost feels like the star

Yes I think so, I love the idea of a challenge and

he was carrying.

that all the women in the world are wearing a little

Yes, you can wear it both ways, for yourself

part of me.

and others.

138

H i g h J ewel s

Devotion ring with blue sapphire, FABERGÉ

Blue for you?

As the white solitaire falls out of favour with fiancées, MOJEH explores the latest love affair with coloured engagement rings By Laura Binder

When Kate Middleton said ‘yes’ to Prince William,

Coloured gemstones. While some fine jewellery-lovers

she did so not to the circular, colourless diamond

argue that the duchess’s blue rock surely ignited

we have come to know and love as the classic

this colour trend, the experts have it that what we’re

engagement ring, but to what is now one of the

actually witnessing is a return to colour – and that the

most famous pieces on the planet: a spectacular

traditional solitaire is a more recent love token than

blue 18-carat sapphire. Of course, while its ocean-

diamond dealers and advertising campaigns would

hued, diamond-encircled stone is enough to attract

have us believe.

any jewellery-loving eye, it is its history, as the late

It was De Beers who first coined the phrase, ‘A

Princess Diana’s engagement ring, that sealed its

diamond is for ever,’ in 1947, but, say the jewellery

sentimental value – a quality that makes it entirely

experts, prior to this an engagement ring would most

unique to the royal couple.

likely have been designed around a coloured stone. ‘It

It’s this concept – of a ring that’s not only beautiful but

is important to know that cutting diamonds was only

personal and individual to its wearer – that’s driving

available at of the end of the 14th century when the

the engagement ring market today and pushing

technique was discovered,’ says international director

the classic solitaire off the top slot. Its successor?

of Christie’s Jewellery department, David Warren. ‘All

Princess Diana’s 18-carat sapphire ring that was given to Kate Middleton by Prince William on their engagement

High Jewelry ring with amethyst, emerald, ruby, blue, orange, pink, green and purple sapphire and diamond, set on white gold, DE GRISOGONO

Amethyst ring, ALEXANDRA MOR

previous engagement rings were rubies, sapphires or

campaign – a huge success – and the white diamond

emeralds in gold setting or octagonal crystals.’

solitaire has dominated the bridal market ever since.

‘During Imperial Russia, the Royal family and court

But, it seems, contemporary couples are falling for

loved coloured gemstones,’ affirms Fabergé’s design

colour’s charms once again in pursuit of a more

director Natalia Shugaeva, citing the Grand Duchess

individual piece. ‘Diamonds have had a great deal of

Elizabeth and Empress Alexandra Fedorovna as

attention especially in the engagement and celebration

wearers of impressive emeralds.

ring categories over the past years, yet most recently

So when did the since-coveted clear diamond

coloured gemstones had a real revival and have been

come into brides-to-be’s consciousness? ‘The first

gaining great popularity amongst both A-listers and

well-documented use of a diamond ring to signify

collectors,’ comments Fabergé’s Shugaeva. ‘Prices

engagement was by the Archduke Maximilian of

per carat for higher quality rough emeralds have

Austria in imperial court of Vienna in 1477, upon his

increased six fold over the past four years and the price

betrothal to Mary of Burgundy,’ expands Warren.

of rubies and sapphires appears to have increased

‘This then influenced those of higher social class

faster than that of diamonds.

and of significant wealth to give diamond rings to

‘Rarity and uniqueness is driving the demand for these

their loved ones.’

precious and extraordinary stones higher each month,’

Fast forward to 1837 and Tiffany & Co opened its

she goes on. ‘Influential celebrities such as Angelina

doors, increasing the offering of diamond engagement

Jolie have been seen wearing large emerald jewels at

rings – a signature piece that’s since sent women weak

various award ceremonies, and as a result we have

at the knees at the very sight of a little duck-egg blue

found extraordinary and rare coloured gemstones

box and white bow. Combined with the later De Beers’

have become even more fashionable and coveted.’

140 Shugaeva says Fabergé followers are similarly set on acquiring a unique piece for their engagement ring. ‘We find that our clients look for special, one-of-akind pieces to celebrate important moments such as engagements and weddings,’ she says. ‘That is why Fabergé’s Private Orders Service is popular. Bespoke commissions are a close collaboration between the Fabergé design team and the client, whereby we aim to reflect the personality of the wearer through a unique design and the stones we source.’ The Fabergé woman, she reasons, does not want an engagement ring that millions of other women wear – however stunning a solitaire it may be. ‘She looks for highly personal pieces that express her personality and that will become future heirlooms.’ Its Devotion Collection then offers up a rainbow of colour with ethically-sourced emeralds and rubies (from the mines of parent company, Gemfields – the leading producer of rare-coloured gemstones in the world) as well as fire opals, alexandrites and Padparadscha sapphires. Van Cleef & Arpels has embraced this love affair with colour too. ‘Today, the Maison reaches out to those in love, with a range of unique solitaire rings offering both diamond and coloured gem creations,’ comments its CEO, Alban Belloir. ‘An exceptional piece is the Solitaire Deva ring, in platinum, set with 1 pear-shaped DFL diamond of 12.54 carats.’ Delve into the Van Cleef’s origins and it seems a very fitting Maison to purchase an engagement ring from. ‘It all began with the love story of Estelle Arpels and Alfred Van Cleef,’ tells Belloir. ‘Towards the end of the 19th century, a young girl named Estelle Arpels – the daughter of a dealer in precious stones – met a boy High Jewelry ring with emerald and yellow diamond, set on white and yellow gold, DE GRISOGONO

named Alfred Van Cleef, the son of a stone-cutter. It was the beginning of a love story like no other.’ After marrying in 1895, the pair created gems that would unite other couples for a lifetime. And it set an early colour trend too: diamonds and pearls from HSH Prince Rainier of Monaco were given to Grace

Emerald ring, ERICA COURTNEY

Emerald ring, THEO FENNEL

For your beau, then, engagement ring shopping is

Kelly in 1956; ‘an outstanding solitaire adorned with a

no longer a simple case of snapping up a Tiffany

fabulous 8.25 carat ruby’ was presented to Elizabeth

solitaire. De Beers – who made the solitaire so

Taylor by Richard Burton in 1968; while Jacqueline

famous – now offers alternatives to the white

Bouvier’s first engagement ring from JFK featured

diamond with its 1888 Master Diamonds selection

one 2.8-carat diamond mounted next to a 2.8-carat

of coloured gems, among them a rich pink diamond

emerald with tapered baguettes.

solitaire. Alternatively, grooms-to-be can make

Indeed, while Van Cleef & Arpels’ Solitaire selection

use of a personalised service, For You, Forever,

(including sapphires, rubies and emeralds) do well

and choose from more than 2,000 diamonds in-

in the global market, so too do its less-conventional

store, as well as assorted designs and metals.

designs, including the flower-emblazoned Socrate

It’s a quest for individuality that Christie’s Warren is

between-the-finger ring and the Folie des Prés

seeing more of in the auction house too. ‘Christie’s

ring with coloured sapphires. Not only that, but

have great relationships with top designers in most

in the Middle East market it seems fiancés don’t

countries, who are happy to help redesign a setting

draw the line at a colourful ring but propose with a

for clients,’ he reveals. ‘They include Kay Akihara in

High Jewellery Set – like the Snowflake collection.

Hyogo (Japan), Alexandra Darier and Suzanne Syz in

‘This includes necklaces, earrings, bracelets and

Geneva, Carnet, Wallace Chan and Etcetera in Hong

rings,’ tells Belloir, ‘These are ideal engagement

Kong, Lynn Nakamura in Los Angeles, Viren Bhagat

pieces and can be made to order.’ In 2011, HSH

in Mumbai, Daniel Brush and Angela Cummings in

Prince Albert II made such a gesture, proposing to

New York, Lorenz Baumer in Paris, but the list is far

Charlène of Monaco with the Ocean set. ‘Entirely

from being exhaustive.’

set with diamonds and blue sapphires, this necklace

Angelina Jolie wears 115-carat Colombian emerald drop earrings by Lorraine Schwartz at the 2009 Oscars

Chàrlene of Monaco wearing the Van Cleef & Arpels blue sapphire Ocean necklace

Melody of Colours ring with ruby, DE GRISOGONO

Devotion emerald ring, FABERGÉ

transforms into a tiara and symbolises the oceans of

Kong, New York and Geneva, one will find a selection

the world,’ explains Belloir.

of rare gemstone and diamond set rings, that could

If it’s an individual statement you want to make, there

start at £15,000 – and really there is no upper limit.’

are some even more offbeat offerings – seen with

But whatever your beau may be combing the market

the likes of contemporary jewellery designer Solange

for, the ‘four c’s rule’ – cut, clarity, colour and carat –

Azagury-Partridge. She says her loved-up clients

remains a rule to buy by. ‘These are most important

‘want something that tells a story’. Indeed, recent

when you would buy a coloured or colourless

purchases made from the designer include the Adam

diamond engagement ring,’ insists Warren. But, he’s

and Eve ring – which aptly depicts the world’s very first

quick to add, that unlike any piece of jewellery, an

married couple – and her Ball Crusher ring, in which

engagement piece is about far more than a rock’s

a pearl is squeezed by red-fingernail-tipped talons.

size. ‘The ring would need to fit your personality and

Whether it’s an off-the-wall design or a colourful

lifestyle and not been seen as a status symbol, it is a

creation you covet, Christie’s expert agrees with

lifelong statement signalling that one has found love.’

Shugaeva’s sentiment that gemstones can no longer

If your heart still belongs to the colourless diamond

be seen to play second fiddle to the classic solitaire.

though, don’t despair. Figures of note – Victoria of

‘Many clients choose to buy an engagement ring

Sweden, Mathilde of Belgium and Letizia of Spain and

set with a coloured gemstone, such as a sapphire,

other contemporary princesses and queens – have

emerald or ruby,’ he says. ‘We have sales at Christie’s

received colourless diamond engagement rings. As

in South Kensington, London, and Paris, where

Warren insists, ‘The colourless diamond ring will

rings would typically range from £1,000 to £10,000.

always have its followership – as will the coloured

However, in the more important auctions in Hong

version.’ After all, the heart wants what it wants…

142

A cc es s o ry a f fair s

BLUSHING BEAUTIES Nothing else suggests soft and feminine beauty quite like the pearl. For the epitome of purity, turn to the depths on your big day. Whether Robert Wanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s classic white choker or Chanelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s striking strings, the delicate jewel will compliment classic blush tones and bring an air of opulence to your gown.

144

THE DARK AGES Moody hues add drama to your after-dark jewels, so shake up an overly feminine look with gems that stand out in a sea of simplicity. From Mouawad and Alessio Boschi to Chopard and Georgina Skan, black diamonds and deep toned gems nod towards a deeper love.

A Deeper Love Photographed by Anthony Arquier Styled by Guillaume Boulez

Paris Nouvelle Vague necklace with diamonds, set on pink gold, CARTIER Blouse, ALEXIS MABILLE

Paris Nouvelle Vague earrings with blue sapphire, chalcedony, lapis lazuli, turquoise, moon stone, aquamarine and diamond, set on pink gold | Paris Nouvelle Vague ring in chrysoprase, set on yellow gold, CARTIER Blouse, DRIES VAN NOTEN

Paris Nouvelle Vague necklace with morganite, pearl and spinel, set on pink gold | ClĂŠ de Cartier watch, CARTIER Dress, DRIES VAN NOTEN

Paris Nouvelle Vague bracelet in diamond, set on pink gold, CARTIER Dress, SPORTMAX

Paris Nouvelle Vague bracelet with pink gold | Paris Nouvelle Vague ring with black lacquer and diamond, set on pink gold | Paris Nouvelle Vague ring with diamond, set on pink gold, CARTIER Dress, SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

Paris Nouvelle Vague earrings with diamonds, set on pink gold | ClĂŠ de Cartier watch, CARTIER Dress and belt, SONIA RYKIEL

Paris Nouvelle Vague necklace with blue sapphire, chalcedony, lapis lazuli, turquoise, moon stone, aquamarine and diamond, set on pink gold, CARTIER Jacket, MAISON MARGIELA

Paris Nouvelle Vague necklace with malachite, set on pink gold, CARTIER Blouse, ALEXIS MABILLE

Paris Nouvelle Vague ring with malachite and fire opal, set on pink gold | Paris Nouvelle Vague ring with lapis lazuli and diamond, set on yellow gold, CARTIER Dress, GUCCI

Model: Irina Nikolaeva at OUI Management Hair stylist: Yuji Okuda Make-up artist: Cyril Laine Stylist assistant: Pierre Brejoux Production: Louis Agency

Coco Crush ring in 18K white gold, CHANEL FINE JEWELLERY Lips, Rouge Coco Shine 507 Insoumise | Nails, Le Vernis 707 Méditerranée, CHANEL

Face (throughout) Vitalumière Aqua 20 Beige, Lumière d’Été Illuminating Powder | Eyes (throughout) Le Crayon Khôl 69 Clair, Le Volume de CHANEL Mascara 10 Noir, CHANEL

Just A Crush Photographed by Julio Gamboa Styled by Christine De Lassus

Coco Crush ring in 18K yellow gold, CHANEL FINE JEWELLERY Eyes, Stylo Eyeshadow 127 Laurier Rose | Lips, Rouge Coco Shine 497 Intrépide | Nails, Le Vernis 707 Méditerranée, CHANEL

Coco Crush cuff in 18K yellow gold, CHANEL FINE JEWELLERY Eyes, Stylo Eyeshadow 127 Laurier Rose | Lips, LÃ¨vres Scintillantes 457 Allegria | Nails, Le Vernis 717 Coquelicot, CHANEL

Coco Crush rings in 18K white gold, CHANEL FINE JEWELLERY Lips, Rouge Coco 434 Mademoiselle | Nails, Le Vernis 727 Lavanda, CHANEL

Coco Crush cuff in 18K yellow gold, CHANEL FINE JEWELLERY Eyes, Stylo Eyeshadow 107 Campanule | Lips, Rouge Coco Shine 497 IntrÃ©pide | Nails, Le Vernis 717 Coquelicot, CHANEL

Coco Crush rings in 18K yellow and white gold & Coco Crush cuff in 18K yellow gold, CHANEL FINE JEWELLERY Eyes, Stylo Eyeshadow 117 Azulejo | Lips, Rouge Coco Shine 477 RÃªveuse | Nails, Le Vernis 717 Coquelicot, CHANEL

Model: Brie Harding at MUSE Management NYC Art director: Adriana de Icaza Hair stylist: Junya Nakashima Makeup artist: Yuko Mizuno Manicurist: Mayumi Abuku Digital Technician: Pablo Serrano Production: Louis Agency

164

M o j eh H ealth

By Susan Devaney

From Facebook to Apple, more companies are offering the option of covering the cost of egg freezing for their employees. But is it just a hope with an empty promise? Or is it a solution to gender equality in the workplace?

It’s of no secret that women are choosing to marry and have children later in life today than they were 50 years ago. The days of having children before you’ve reached a quarter milestone are long gone, for some. Now, women want it all: a successful career, but with

It’s a technology in which mature eggs undergo a flash-freeze process called vitrification. This protects the egg by covering it in ice – limiting damage and increasing its chances of survival.

marriage and children afterwards. ‘It is impossible for women to have children and remain ambitious and dedicated to a career they worked so hard to

Photographed by Adrianna Williams, Corbis.

earn before having children,’ Hollywood actress Katie Holmes recently suggested. And why shouldn’t

a boom in the number of women who choose to

we have it all? As high profile companies such as

freeze their eggs. The number of patients we have

Apple and Facebook add egg freezing to their health

treated for egg freezing has doubled every two years

care benefits packages for employees it looks like

since we started freezing oocytes back in 2006’, Dr.

a trend set to rise.

Copperman. ‘I do not see this trend slowing down,

But what exactly is it? Egg freezing – or oocyte

and I think it’s great that Apple and Facebook have

cryopreservation – is now available around the world.

embraced this technology and are empowering their

In simple terms, it’s a technology in which mature eggs

female employees with reproductive options’, he

undergo a flash-freeze process called vitrification. This

says. Last year, Facebook started ‘… offering egg

protects the egg by covering it in ice – limiting damage

freezing for medical and non-medical reasons to all US

and increasing it’s chances of survival. Therefore,

employees who are covered by our insurance plans.

you can use the eggs when you’re ready to start a

This benefit is covered 100 per cent up to 20,000

family. The process of egg freezing is very similar to In

dollars.’ Following suit, Apple starting competing with

Vitro Fertilization’, explains Alan B. Copperman, MD,

a similar package this year.

Director of the Division of Reproductive Endocrinology

But are these companies empowering women by

and Infertility at The Mount Sinai Hospital in New York

providing them with innovative fertility options for

City. With an estimated 2,000 babies born globally

the future? Or is it a savvy business strategy? At

from this procedure already it’s a number that looks

the peak of our careers (estimated at age 35) falls

set to rise in the coming years. In the UAE the process

around the same time a lot of women want to start a

differs slightly as there’s tougher laws surrounding the

family. This collision makes for the surfacing of very

procedure. ‘The federal laws for fertility in the UAE

difficult questions: Should I take time out now and

prohibit the import and export of gametes (eggs and

have children? Once I step off the career ladder how

sperm), and the own eggs of a woman are not an

will I get back on? Or should I abandon the industry

exception. This translated means that any eggs frozen

altogether and become a full-time mother? A series

in the UAE, have to be used in the UAE and cannot

of questions that men do not have to answer – they

be transported to be used in another country – an

can have children at 30, 40 and so on as there’s no

important piece of information for expatriate ladies

evidence to prove they have a ‘biological clock’. ‘It is

considering egg freezing. Further down the line, the

no secret that the quality and quantity of women’s eggs

law today also prohibits the freezing and storage of

diminish as you age. We start to see a slow decline

embryos, so we have to thaw and use a limited amount

at age 35, then a more rapid drop after 40. Women

of eggs each time’, explains Dr. Sana Khan at Bourn

are their most fertile in their 20’s and early 30’s, so

Hall Clinic in Dubai.

the ‘ideal’ age would be in that range to yield the best

Being hailed as the most important and innovative

result’, explains Dr. Copperman. Since 1970 there has

advancement in women’s reproductive freedom since

been a 900 per cent increase in women over the age

the oral contraceptive pill it’s definitely something

of 35 having their first child, and a 35 percent increase

worth thinking about. ‘In recent years, we have seen

among women aged between 40 and 44 – statistics

166

these companies are all too well aware of. Women step off the career ladder around this age to have children. It’s a no-brainer that this recent introduction of egg freezing for female employees might well safe guard businesses from this drop-off. If women can secure

Women remain sceptical – and divided. Are these companies putting even more pressure on women to keep working and put their family life on the back burner?

their future by ensuring they’ll have children (whilst remaining on the career ladder) why wouldn’t they take hold of this opportunity? Surely it’s the answer

Photographed by Kröger/Gross, Corbis.

to all our prayers? Women remain sceptical – and divided. Are these

average 14 days – but there’s no guarantee of success.

companies putting even more pressure on women

‘The success rate of egg freezing is now comparable to

to keep working and put their family life on the back

that of IVF success’, explains Dr. Copperman. ‘Recent

burner? Or is it an attempt to level the playing field

technological advances and improved lab conditions

for women in the office? According to the University

have improved the chance of conception dramatically.

of Denver today women hold less than 20 percent

If the eggs are retrieved before a woman turns 35,

of leadership roles in corporate America. With only

fresh IVF success rates approach 50 percent. Since

5 per cent holding down a CEO position at Fortune

90 per cent of the eggs that are frozen ultimately

500 companies. These findings amplify that not all

survive, success rates with frozen eggs should not be

women can reach the top of their industry if they

significantly lower. Ultimately, the success rate depends

chose to raise a family too. In the US women now

on the quality of the eggs when they were frozen and

account for half of the workforce. The United States

the number of eggs. Those candidates with a younger

Department of Labour has projected that women will

age and high egg yield will of course have the best

account for 46.9 per cent of the workforce in 2018.

possible outcome when attempting to conceive with

More importantly they will account for the ‘51.8 per

their frozen eggs.’ So – even when you’re at the peak

cent in total labour force growth between 2008-2018’.

of your fertility in your 20s it’s a procedure to consider,

According to a study carried out by Ernst & Young in

and as with any medically invasive procedure there’s

2009, ‘Groundbreakers: Using Women to Rebuild the

health risks involved.

Strength of the Economy’ in the UK women make up

Is it an attempt at a quick fix for a more complex social,

for 47 per cent of the workforce. They also noted that

political and cultural issue? Maybe what women really

the US Department of Education has reported that

want is for companies to allow them to blend a balance

‘women have been earning more bachelor degrees

between work and life. It’s a constant battle for many

than men since 1982, and more master’s degrees than

working mothers, so why not listen to them? Today

men since 1981’. In the UAE Emirati women entering

many jobs demand long hours and constant availability

the workplace is still a slow process: 31.6 per cent of

from their employees. Anne-Marie Slaughter a high

the Emirati labour force in 2011 consisted of women

profile political scientist and international lawyer has

between 15 and 24 (according to the International

proposed aligning the work day with the school day

Labour Organisation). Our place within the workplace is

– maybe that’s a plausible break through? Whether

vitally important for the future of the world’s economy.

it’s due to a lack of partner, professional reasons or

According to the Women’s Business Council in the UK,

financial issues, a lot of women are delaying child-

‘£7,750 is the estimated cost of replacing a job-leaver’.

bearing until they reach their 30s. Having the option to

That’s a high price to pay for any company.

freeze our eggs is incredible in terms of recognising the

But is it a hope with an empty promise? We know the

evolution of innovative scientific developments – but

biological clock waits for no one. Women are at the

it’s not a guarantee for having children later in life. The

peak of their fertility in their 20s. As we age, so too do

promises and pitfalls of putting your eggs on ice are

our eggs. The actual egg freezing cycle itself takes on

only a small (possible) solution to a much bigger issue.

168

M o j eh HEA LTH

Eat. Sleep. Repeat. By Susan Devaney

As complaints of chronic fatigue, tiredness, stress and sleepless nights rise, we once again ask: are we getting enough sleep?

‘It is extraordinary to me that we as a species feel that we can do whatever we want, whenever we want, wherever we want without any consequences. In our genes we have three and a half billion years of evolutionary baggage and we feel that we can simply abandon or override our biology without any consequences. We simply can’t do that.’ says Russell Foster, Professor of Circadian Neuroscience at the University of Oxford. As one of the industry’s leading experts on sleep, he cannot place enough emphasis on the value of sleep for both our mental health and general well being. ‘The normal range of about eight [hours] is fine, but some people, (only a few) can

After Show, photographed by Stefania Paparelli, MOJEH Issue 12 + 1

get by with as little as six,’ says Foster.

characteristic of these conditions,’ says

Gaining eight hours of sleep every night

Foster. Being well rested allows for our

was once viewed as an over indulgence.

brain to function and process information

However, in recent years there has been

we’ve learned throughout the day –

a noticeable shift in attitudes. The ‘you

without sleep there appears to be a

snooze, you lose’ stance of the Eighties

knock-on effect. The question is: is it the

has been pushed aside, and in its place a

sleep disruption that’s causing it? ‘The

firm focus has fallen on the importance of

origin of the disruption is very much in

rest. ‘I think for so long, particularly during

the overlapping neuro-pathways in the

the Eighties and Nineties it was thought

brain. Now we have really good evidence

that sleep was for wimps, and that nothing

of that, genes that have been linked to

important was going on during sleep,’

mental illness also have an important role

says Foster. It was Margaret Thatcher,

in normal sleep wake function,’ concludes

then British Prime Minister, who famously

Foster. One main cause of sleep disruption

claimed sleeping was for ‘wimps’.

may be caused by light exposure. Foster

Surviving on four hours of sleep per night,

advises us to minimise our exposure to

she became somewhat of a template for

light at night (turn off TVs, mobile phones,

many business figures, especially women.

iPads etc). However, he does conclude:

Last year Arianna Huffington, the founder

‘Our clocks are relatively insensitive to

and editor-in-chief of The Huffington Post,

light, so you need quite a lot to experience

explained why we all needed more sleep.

a big shift of your clock.’

After experiencing major health issues

But how do we measure a good night’s

due to trying to survive on as little sleep

sleep? ‘You tend to measure a good

as possible, she made it her mantra to

night’s sleep depending on how you

change this attitude in the workplace. ‘In

feel when you wake,’ says Foster. When

the years since that wake-up call, I’ve

it’s put into such a simplistic sentence

come to understand that it’s not enough to

one could easily assume that everyone

treat sleep – and especially lack of sleep –

experiences a restful sleep night after

as a stand-alone issue. Sleep is something

night. But the sleep cycle is complex and

that encompasses many aspects of our

causes a daily struggle for many. ‘[What]

lives, from technology and leadership to

has emerged very recently and has really

our relationships, careers, creativity and

shocked people is that we tend to think

stress’, she wrote in May 2014 for the

of sleep as an entirely global phenomenon

Telegraph newspaper. Tuning into our

- that the entire brain is in the sleep state

body clock appears to be essential: ‘the

or in the wake state. And now people

key thing about how much sleep we need

have identified what’s called local sleep,

is for each of us to listen to the needs of

so while we’re awake one of the parts

the body … Our grandparents taught us

of the brain might well be in sleep. The

to sleep on the problem and we now have

significance of local sleep and whether it

scientific evidence to show that if you do

is a marker of illness or age, for example,

sleep on a problem you are much more

we don’t know. But as I say it’s a new

likely to come up with a novel solution to

phenomenon,’ he says.

a complex problem,’ Foster says.

The importance of a good night’s sleep

Tiredness is often overlooked as a serious

is fundamental to the health and well

issue. In 2012, doctors at a UAE university

being of everyone. It is our evolutionary

confirmed that 1 in 20 car crashes in the

arrogance that’s allowed us to believe we

region occurred due to sleepy drivers. As

can function without much sleep. Even

this number looks set to increase as the

in light of the new global phenomenon

city expands, promoting the message of

of ‘local sleep,’ gaining forty winks at

the essentiality of getting a good night’s

night is not a luxury, but a necessity.

sleep is paramount.

‘If you want to be less amusing, more

Experts’ research on our sleep cycle has

impulsive, less empathetic, less able to

also thrown light on the evidential link

come up with good solutions to complex

between sleep deprivation and mental

problems. If you want to be less healthy,

illness. ‘One of things that’s completely

then fine, don’t sleep. But don’t think

fascinating is that in every mental illness,

you can get away with not sleeping and

whether its depression or schizophrenia,

squeezing more and more into the day

strange sleeping habits are absolutely

without consequences – there will be.’

170

B e au ty F o cus

Embellished hair ornaments at Dolce & Gabbana, spring/ summer 2015

G i l d e d

Lo c k s There is only one thing that can elevate each and every hairstyle this spring – a shimmering hair ornament. We look at how to reimagine the hair trend of the season.

With the dress chosen and the accessories carefully edited, attention turns to the pièce de résistance of any special occasion look, the one that can make or break it – the hairstyle. One feature caught the eye again and again on the spring/ summer runways: the slivers of sparkle and shine in the hair – whether barrettes,

Micro floral highlights at Valentino, spring 2015 couture

buckle-clasps or floral inspired slides – that proved the crowning glory of many a collection. Jewellery isn’t just for the neck or the wrist, the magic of a rare gem or precious metal may glimmer from the hair too. These are hair accessories for every modern woman. Guido Palau took inspiration from the sultry depths of southern Spain to reimagine Dolce & Gabbana’s signature hairstyle for SS15. Each model emerged with hair twisted into a low-slung bun and adorned with fiery red roses or exquisite hair jewellery. Combining femininity and frivolity, this is a look that is simple to recreate and makes just as much impact as the statement necklace that will soon find its home on the shelf as the hair ornament takes charge. Leading hair stylist Jen Atkin, whose clients include Jennifer Lopez, Katy Perry and Jessica Alba (as well

Image of Emmy Rossum photographed by by Jason Kempin/Getty Images for EJAF. Other images courtesy of Gorunway.

as a Kardashian or two), balances an elaborate accessory with a simple hairstyle. ‘The updo for a hair ornament will depend on the hair accessory,’ she says. ‘I love a classic chignon for nearly every headpiece, but sometimes it’s even nice to simply wear the hair down and tuck one side behind the ear with a decorative piece to add instant glamour.’ Loose locks inspired by the dreaminess of the Valentino SS15 collection – where

Emmy Rossum in Chopard

intricate gold headpieces worn at the back of the head were interwoven, mermaidstyle, with seashells and starfish – form the ideal base with which to have fun with embellishment. Likewise, classic old-Hollywood waves provide a little structure for a more formal event. ‘You can quickly recreate this one yourself by curling your hair with a large 1 ¼ inch GHD curve iron and setting into place with pin curl clips,’ instructs Jen. ‘Mist with R+Co Vicious Hairspray, then remove the pins and brush through with a Sonia Kashuk paddle brush. Use Oribe Gold Lust Nourishing Hair Oil to smooth, then slick one side behind the ear with a fine-tooth comb. Gently place your accessory behind the ear, and voila!’ A sense of modern simplicity elsewhere in your look is the key to perfecting this style. Hair ornaments are an unexpected delight with a column gown and minimal jewellery and any hairstyle that is just the right side of carefree. ‘Avoid wearing accessories with any hairstyles that are too ‘set’,’ says Jen. ‘It’s important to keep a few loose pieces, straight ends, and some varying texture to the hair to allow it to still feel youthful and modern.’ Similarly, pick a hair accessory that contrasts with the colour of your hair. ‘If you have dark hair and a dark accessory, the piece can easily get lost and unnoticed in your hair,’ she notes. This is one case where piling on the shimmer truly works.

Valentino, spring/ summer 2015

172

B e au ty ex plo re r

Majestic Visions Take inspiration from the rich landscapes of exotic wedding locations. From a laidback look in Tulum, to the glittering lights of Cannes, there is a beauty heroine for every traveller.

Bring light to your skin and enhance your glow with subtle shimmer for a shoreline celebration.

Pare back your beauty with natural ingredients from the earth.

2 4

A glamorous feline flick will channel Cannesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; most famous visitor, Brigitte Bardot.

3 5

Smokey eyes and bold lips add drama to your look.

7 6 9

174 1

A bold look will fit with the Arabian desert, more is more.

Oud will give an authentic take on Middle Eastern glamour.

7 9

Spring beauty feels pretty and fresh like an English Rose set for her garden party.

3 5

Flushed cheeks and glowing skin is reminiscent of summer fun.

Face, Dior Hydra Life Pro-Youth Crème, Diorskin Nude BB Crème 025 and Diorskin Nude Tan Tie Dye Edition Pink Sunrise 001 | Eyes, Diorshow Iconic Overcurl mascara 090, Palette Eye Reviver 001 and Dior 5 Couleurs Palette Ambre Nuit 746 | Lips, Dior Addict Lip Maximizer Beige Sunrise 006 and Dior Addict Lipstick Fuschia Utopia 005, CHRISTIAN DIOR

Fresh Fantasy Photographed by Fabien Montique

Face, Dior Hydra Life Pro-Youth Crème, Diorskin Nude BB Crème 025 and Diorskin Nude Tan Tie Dye Edition Coral  Sunset 002 | Eyes, Diorshow Iconic Overcurl mascara 090, Diorshow Khol Pearly Turqoise 379 and Dior 5 Couleurs Palette Ambre Nuit 539 | Lips, Dior Addict Lip Maximizer Beige Sunrise 006 and Dior Addict Lipstick Fuschia Utopia 005, CHRISTIAN DIOR

Face, Dior Hydra Life Pro-Youth Crème, Diorskin Nude BB Crème 025 and Diorskin Nude Tan Tie Dye Edition Coral Sunset 002 | Eyes, Diorshow Iconic Overcurl mascara 090, Palette Eye Reviver 001 and Dior 5 Couleurs Palette Ambre Nuit 746 | Lips, Dior Addict Lip Maximizer Beige Sunrise 006 and Dior Addict Lipstick Nude Fever 006, CHRISTIAN DIOR

Face, Dior Hydra Life Pro-Youth Crème, Diorskin Nude BB Crème 025 and Diorskin Nude Tan Tie Dye Edition Pink Sunrise 001 | Eyes, Diorshow Iconic Overcurl mascara 090, Diorshow Khol Smoky Black, Palette Eye Reviver 001 and Dior 5 Couleurs Palette Ambre Nuit 746 | Lips, Dior Addict Lip Maximizer Beige Sunrise 006 and Dior Addict Fluid Stick Ciel Rose 449, CHRISTIAN DIOR

Face, Dior Hydra Life Pro-Youth Crème, Diorskin Nude BB Crème 025 and Diorskin Nude Tan Tie Dye Edition Pink Sunrise 001 | Eyes, Diorshow Iconic Overcurl mascara 090 | Lips, Dior Addict Lip Maximizer Beige Sunrise 006 and Dior Addict Fluid Stick Plasir 779, CHRISTIAN DIOR

Model: Julia Almendra at Photogenics Makeup artist: Mia Yang Hair stylist: Jennifer Hanching Photographer’s assistant: Matthew Brush Production: Louis Agency

186

AskHer More By Natalie Trevis

When the 87th Academy Awards arrived in February we were poised to find out more from the women of Hollywood than simply which designer they were wearing. We take a look at The Representation Projectâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s campaign to #AskHerMore.

Photography by Mark Davis/Getty Images. Graphic, Instagram: @obviweretheladies.

Tal k ing P o i nt

Julianne Moore on her Oscar-winning night at the 87th Academy Awards

Alternative red carpet questions as part of the #askhermore campaign

‘This is a movement to say we’re more than just

Challenging the mainstream media’s portrayal

our dresses,’ Reese Witherspoon told reporter

of what it means to be a powerful woman, the

Robin Roberts on the red carpet at The Oscars

#AskHerMore red carpet movement was a natural

this year. ‘There are 44 nominees this year that are

extension of this message.

women and we are so happy to be here and talk

Comedian and actress Amy Poehler’s organisation,

about the work that we’ve done. It’s hard being a

Smart Girls, spread the #AskHerMore missive for

woman in Hollywood, or any industry.’ When Reese

the SAG Awards, Grammys and the Golden Globes,

Witherspoon began to promote The Representation

which Poehler hosted, with equally funny and vocal

Project’s campaign to ask women about more

counterpart Tina Fey. ‘The #RedCarpet is open and

than simply their gowns on the red carpet, the

we want the media to #AskHerMore! Let’s go beyond

#AskHerMore movement spiralled. Reaching more

‘who are you wearing?’ and ask better questions!

than 25 million people, the viral campaign made a

#GoldenGlobes,’ tweeted Smart Girls (whose rallying

real-world impact, as actors and journalists began

cry is, ‘Change the world by being yourself’). As the

to draw attention to the fact that there really is more

campaign swiftly gained traction with the acting

to an appearance by an actress on the red carpet

community and beyond, the support came flooding

than her gown.

in, culminating on Oscars night. ‘I love the Oscars

Founded by Jennifer Siebel Newsom and using film

AND fashion like many of you & am excited to share

as a catalyst, The Representation Project’s mission is

#WhoAmIWearing later tonight (not yet!). But I’d also

to overcome all limiting stereotypes (whether gender,

love to answer some of these questions…’ posted

race, class, age, sexual orientation or circumstance).

Reese alongside a list of alternative questions such

Siebel Newsom, a former actress who was asked, at

as, ‘What accomplishment are you most proud of?’

the start of her career, to remove her Stanford MBA

and ‘What potential do filmmakers and characters

from her resumé and lie about her age, directed the

have to make change in the world?’. ‘Ask her

2011 acclaimed documentary, Miss Representation.

about the causes she supports, not her support

Exploring the under-representation of women in

garments,’ tweeted Lena Dunham. While Julianne

positions of power and influence in the US, the

Moore chimed in on the night, telling Entertainment

film’s motto is, ‘You can’t be what you can’t see’.

Tonight, ‘I think it’s important to ask everybody about

188

chord, drawing attention to wider equality issues. When you consider that fewer than a quarter of films feature a female protagonist and only 29 per cent of speaking characters in top Hollywood films are women, there is a profound gender imbalance being reflected back at us. The women that do appear on the big screen are four times more likely to be sexualised or wearing revealing clothing, not to mention the lack of substantial roles for women over the age of 40. If you believe that you can’t be what you can’t see, there’s a generation of young women out there that don’t have access to enough fulfilling role models on-screen. Off the red carpet and inside the Dolby Theatre in Hollywood on Oscars night, Patricia Arquette fought back. Arquette used her acceptance speech to highlight wage inequality in America, where women working woman earns only 78 per cent of what the average working man makes (rising to 85 percent in the media industry). Not only did Arquette use her (literal) platform to eloquently highlight a taboo subject, she caused Meryl Streep to jump out of her seat in delight, punching the air in support (and promptly becoming our best meme of 2015). A slew of young actresses are using their celebrity Reese Witherspoon proved an outspoken advocate of the campaign

to spread positive and worthwhile messages while refusing to be defined by their appearance. Emma Stone, Jennifer Lawrence and Scarlett Johansson

more than what they’re wearing. Ask them what

have each taken a public stand against insulting

they’re thinking, ask them what their work is about.’

interview questions about their bodies or appearance

Women on (and off) the red carpet are ready

(‘How come you get the really interesting existential

for a new narrative and it’s not hard to see why.

question, and I get the ‘rabbit food’ question?’

‘What a woman wears can be a wonderful form

Johansson half-joked in a joint interview with Robert

of self-expression, but the issue is that it usually

Downey Jr.). Similarly, Cate Blanchett’s loaded query

has very little to do with what she has personally

to E! News reporter Giuliana Rancic at the 2014

accomplished and what she actually represents,’

Screen Actors Guild Awards, ‘Do you do that to the

says Dina Butti, the Dubai ON Demand television

guys?’, made her thoughts abundantly clear about

presenter who has interviewed stars from Matthew

the camera panning up and down her body as she

McConaughey to Blake Lively. The #AskHerMore

was talking, examining every inch of her outfit for

movement isn’t just about women tiring of the

the benefit of viewers. Dina Butti has experienced

vapidity of red carpet interviews – it strikes a deeper

this pressure first hand. ‘When you’re on television,

Reese Witherspoon photographed by Christopher Polk/Getty Images. Amy Poehler, photographed by Jason Merritt/Getty Images.

make up half of the US workforce but the average

it seems like everyone has an opinion on how you look – and it’s amazing how much time people will dedicate to critiquing it,’ she tells us. ‘However, as with most challenges in life, it toughened me up and encouraged me to prove that my success wasn’t based on superficial qualities.’ But should those in the public eye have to ‘toughen up’ to endure the endless scrutiny? Siebel Newsom’s message is that the film industry has to be held accountable for the culture it perpetuates. Each forthright response to the micro-aggression of a sexist question or comment works to strengthen the next actress’ response just a little. E!’s Mani Cam is no longer a feature of the red carpet after stars including Reese Witherspoon, Julianne Moore and Jennifer Aniston refused to be judged on the colour of their nails (‘No. I’m not doing that,’ said Moore politely at the SAG Awards – also retaining a vestige of dignity by refusing to lift her skirt for the accompanying Stiletto Cam). These small changes, built-upon by widespread campaigns like #AskHerMore, combine to make a difference. Julianne Moore was led into a discussion about Alzheimer’s research at the Oscars (she played an Alzheimer’s sufferer in her Oscarwinning performance in Still Alice) and Witherspoon discussed the genesis of her film Wild, which was

Amy Poehler and her Smart Girls lent their support

produced by her company Pacific Standard whose entire purpose is to ‘create interesting roles for women’ in light of their scarcity elsewhere. It isn’t

- we can all be freer and this is what HeForShe is

a fait accompli, Ryan Seacrest spent valuable red

about. It’s about freedom,’ she said. So too Angelina

carpet minutes asking Naomi Watts about her

Jolie, a philanthropist and humanitarian known for

breakfast frittata recipe, but the conversation has

her tireless advocacy on behalf of refugees and a

already been broadened.

fervent campaigner for women’s rights. Three years

As the red carpet discussion progresses in minor

ago she launched the Preventing Sexual Violence

but significant ways, other women in film take

in Conflict Initiative with British Foreign Secretary

their causes out into the wider world. UN Women

William Hague, who was inspired to campaign on

Goodwill Ambassador Emma Watson floored us

the issue by Jolie’s Bosnian war drama In the Land

with her impassioned speech in New York last

of Blood and Honey. Real achievements in the real

September at an event for the HeForShe campaign.

world. To touch on even a fraction of these issues

‘If we stop defining each other by what we are

during an Oscars red carpet televised program

not and start defining ourselves by what we are

(viewed by 43 million people) would bring more

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(Kuwait’s Sheikha K. Al-Bahar is CEO of National Bank of Kuwait, Lebanon’s Nayla Hayek is CEO of Harry Winston and Salma Ali Saif Bin Hareb, Chief Executive Officer of Economic Zones World), perhaps we should highlight these success stories by ‘asking her more’ in our own backyard. Yet drawing attention to powerful issues isn’t mutually exclusive with reveling in the craftsmanship and aesthetic beauty of one-of-a-kind gowns. Part of the allure of the fashion industry is that it is aspirational; it offers a make-believe version of life in which every outfit is perfectly curated. Nowhere is this more manifested than on the red carpet, and that’s ok with us. As modern women we can admire the fantasy little bit more meaning to the Hollywood parade. ‘There’s nothing wrong with loving fashion and being interested in what they wear,’ Cristina Escobar, communications director for The Representation Project tells ThinkProgress. ‘But the problem is, that it’s the only thing we talk about with women. Men are allowed to be their whole selves: they’re asked about their interests and passions, how it felt to make the film. It reinforces a message that women are valued for youth and appearance and men are valued for their accomplishments.’ One stark reason that ‘Who are you wearing?’ is

British actor and UN Women Goodwill Ambassador, Emma Watson, gives an impassioned speech at the HeForShe campaign launch

always going to be relevant on the red carpet has less to do with aspirational dressing and more to do attention to these causes in one broadcast than

with big business. Much more goes into the creation

months of steady under the radar campaigning.

of that couture gown than simply the star’s personal

Expanding the dialogue in popular media could have

whim. The value of the publicity generated for luxury

an impact here too. ‘Now more than ever, women

fashion and jewellery brands by the right star being

in the Middle East are stepping out from behind

pictured in the perfect gown is unquantifiable.

the scenes and becoming the pioneering faces of

Such is the reach of the red carpet. If, as a fashion

industries,’ says Dina. ‘The more opportunities we

community, we can build a unique industry out of

have to share our perspectives on important subject

pre-show arrivals, there is huge potential to build

matters, the more we can take control and shape

momentum for other causes. As MOJEH reported

the way we are perceived around the world.’ With

last month, contractual agreements, reportedly

Forbes Middle East naming 200 of the Most Powerful

formed between jewellery maisons and their leading

Arab Women annually, in roles ranging from CEOs

ladies, can earn an actress six-to-seven figures for a

to entrepreneurs to governmental powerhouses

one-time appearance at the Oscars. Not to mention

Emma Watson photographed by Eduardo Munoz Alvarez/Getty Images. Angelina Jolie photographed by Lefteris Pitarakis - Pool/Getty Images.

dress and the depth of opinion that gives just a

Angelina Jolie at the Global Summit to End Sexual Violence in Conflict in 2014

that repeated successful collaborations – read: ‘best

‘peak red carpet’ and must begin to find a more

dressed’ nods – with a brand may lead to lucrative

meaningful path through a situation in which Amal

advertising partnerships. The relationship between

Clooney can be lauded for her humanitarian legal

designers and actors is a careful balancing act of

work and lambasted for her gloves, all at the same

mutual respect and cross-promotion. Which is why

event. The harder work is to be found in addressing

Witherspoon revealed on social media, before she

pay inequality, attitudes and accessibility when it

hit the red carpet, that her Oscars gown was by Tom

comes to female roles both in front of and behind

Ford, her jewels Tiffany & Co. and her stylist Leslie

the camera. This needn’t come at the expense of

Fremar. Those are the rules of the game.

our interest and joy in high fashion, which will always

As a populist feminist movement, #AskHerMore

be one of the more entertaining aspects of the film

further empowered a growing dialogue that is pushing

industry. Just ask a special woman in your life – a

back against the beauty pageant atmosphere of

friend, a colleague, a mother – more. You might be

red carpet events. This idea that we have reached

surprised by the answer.

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Cultu r e club

Sail Away With Me

Is there a more perfect backdrop than Paris? Seen through the eyes of famed photographer Jüergen Teller, he takes us through the City of Lights with Louis Vuitton’s collections in tow.

Whilst sailing along Paris’ river Seine, Teller moves with the current whilst shooting for The Flow – a book appropriately named to put Louis Vuitton’s clothing into context. Following the success of I Just Arrived in Paris, the second book in the continuing collaboration between LV’s creative director Nicolas Ghesquière and Teller, is a fusion of raw reality with fantastical fashion. Always one to blur the boundaries between art and advertising, Teller paints a picture of taking to the waters on a journey. First drawn to the spotlight in the eighties, Teller is known for coaxing his subjects out of their comfort zones and into the new. His work has left the industry deeming him one of the most influential photographers of his generation. Taking the collection and making it seem familiar is at the core of the book. Ghesquière’s designs evoke a

194 sense of the known and instinctive – and who does instinctive mixing whilst dressing better than the Parisians? From zip-up shirts to patchwork boots, there’s a touch of the Seventies with an ultra-modern approach. ‘A beginning is a very delicate time … Day zero in the heart of the project, code-named GEHRY014… Oh, yes, I forgot to tell you, today, October 1, the LV house wants to explore the ability to travel to any part of the universe without moving. The journey starts here.’ This statement from Ghesquière marked the beginning of his runway show for spring/summer 15 in the Foundation Louis Vuitton (their new creative hub in the heart of Paris that’s steeped in the brand’s heritage). With a 100 pages of portraiture, still life and landscape photography a journey sailing down the river is a perfect picture of Paris.

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Cultu r e club

Fashion’s Leading Ladies Models who have conquered the runway often seek a fresh challenge in transferring their talents to the big screen. Whether it’s fleeting cameos as the unobtainable beauty or no holds barred leading roles like Cara Delevingne’s performance in the upcoming Paper Towns, there’s always room for one more multi-tasking model-come-actress.

When cover girl Lauren Hutton made her acting debut in Paper Lion in 1968 – just four years into her illustrious modelling career with Ford Modelling Agency - the precedent for models moving to the big screen was set. Since then, so many models have switched to acting entirely, or continue to juggle both careers, that the modelling and film industries seem inevitably entwined. Many models turned to acting so early in their show business careers that we barely remember their cover girl days. Cameron Diaz graced the cover of Seventeen in 1990, her all American looks leading to contracts with Calvin Klein and Levi’s. An audition in 1994 led to a role in The Mask (the highest grossing film of that year) and the rest, as they say, is history. Likewise, it’s easy to forget that Angelina Jolie was an aspiring model in her teens, appearing in music videos for Lenny Kravitz and The Lemonheads before forging ahead with her stellar acting career. And then there are the supers who are so visible in our fashion consciousness that acting is simply another medium for their success. The models whose personality shines through are best placed for a transition. Brooke Shields, Monica Bellucci and Milla Jovovich all successfully weathered the crossover into acting. While editorial model and McQueen darling, Jaime King, who first appeared on the runway for Gucci in the Tom Ford era, was almost certainly heading for modelling superstardom before mantle of model-turned-actress, joining alumni Lily Cole, Agyness Deyn and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley (who might just have a little more work to do to find roles beyond the somewhat limiting hot-sidekick). Cara’s roles are steadily increasing in size – from a coy cameo in Joe Wright’s Anna Karenina to the lead in coming-of-age story Paper Towns (from John Green, the author of The Fault in Our Stars) and appearing in crime thriller The Face of An Angel along the way. All serious roles in serious productions. ‘The film is pretty much entirely scripted so she is acting, but it’s a quality of hers which she’s projecting,’ said director Michael Winterbottom of Cara’s performance in The Face of An Angel. ‘I think she’s like Julie Christie in that way: not an actor in the traditional sense but with a fantastic ability to project things on screen.’ With beauty and talent on which to capitalise, models are increasingly breaking free from the perception that they are no more than generic clotheshorses and are becoming campaign stars, public personalities and expert multi-taskers in their own right. Expect to see more of your favourite model moguls on a screen near you.

Photography by Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty Images

Cara Delevingne looks every inch the movie star on the red carpet at the Cannes Film Festival this year.

Pearl Harbour launched her acting career in 2001. Cara Delevingne now takes up the

California

Dreamin’ It’s the question on everyone’s lips: is it time to go west? As Raf Simons, Nicolas Ghesquière and (now) Tom Ford and Christopher Bailey take their talents to Los Angeles, will it soon become the fifth fashion capital?

The fashion world descended upon the coast of California in February this year to see Tom Ford’s latest offerings. Initially due to hit the runway the day after the Oscars, Ford made a business savvy decision and opted out of London Fashion Week. Instead he headed to the sunny coast to ensure it was well attended by everyone who is anyone. But as the world’s economy continues to stagger, maybe L.A will take to new heights as more designers head west? In recent years the city has began burgeoning with creative talent. With a laidback and cool sound to the city it might be a hub of hibernation for designers yearning for a change of city-fuelled inspiration. In an interview with the Los Angeles Times, designer Jeremy Scott said: ‘I do feel like you do your best work wherever you’re happiest, and I’m happiest here.’ In January, Moschino opened their first flagship store in the city. In April, Burberry took their ‘London in Los Angeles’ show to the runway for their autumn/winter 15 collection in the iconic Griffith Park. With Louis Vuitton having confirmed they’ll be showcasing their Resort collection there this year, the Fashion Pack will be California dreamin’ as we take to its shores once more. Known for its industrial, nostalgic and surreal qualities it differs from Milan, Paris, New York and London, so maybe

Photographed by Max Wanger, Corbis.

a change would do us good.

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cultu r e club

Infectious Love Natalia Shustova is a lawyer by practice and a burgeoning style influencer by passion. Having grown up between Belarus, Siberia and Moscow before moving to Dubai, Natalia’s unwavering creativity came from seeing the world around her through energetic and optimistic eyes – an inspiration to all. In the corporate world she’s a powerhouse and in the shoe one Sarah Jessica Parker, Paul Andrew and Rupert Sanderson fall to her feet. Her endless creative energy is infectious and here she tells us about chasing dreams and following passions.

Tell us about your first pair of shoes?

how to say no, but when it comes to new

They were Giorgio Armani sandals and in my

opportunities and challenges or ways to meet

opinion the most beautiful shoes in the world at

new people and introduce would be strangers

that time – wooden with green embellishments

into my life then it’s always a yes. I don’t ever

and so Armani! That’s where my addiction

want to limit myself. I’m also very curious.

first started and I now by three-four pairs a month. That’s how Shoestova.com happened

We’re celebrating our annual bridal issue,

– I was going out and about in the region and

what does love mean to you?

everyone was really interested in what I was

It’s what generates my energy, what keeps

wearing, they wanted to see more than my

me moving. Love is everywhere, but you have

Instagram. I expanded it into a website so I

to feel it and know how to love. It has to be

could share everything that I was finding and

genuine. It’s everywhere in our house.

enjoying with everyone else. Your husband is very active in your brand, Why do you have such a love for shoes in

does this help?

particular?

Yes, that’s why our bond is so strong. He

They’re completely magic. It’s easier to be

understands that I can’t just sit in one place

creative with your clothes and accessories,

and I have to be achieving every single day,

add embellishments here and there, adjust

he is probably 99 per cent of who I am today,

something so it fits better, but shoes are

a massive part of my success. I don’t need

untouchable, they fascinate me. Every day

his support financially so instead I get it in

I start with the shoes and then work up with

love. He is just as involved as I am in all of

my outfit and make-up.

my endeavours and will do things that aren’t

Natalia Shustova photographed in her home, wearing a dress by The White Avenue Dubai designer.

necessarily his scene just to spend time with What does style mean to you?

me. That in my opinion is marriage, I always

Style is basically you, it’s the way you smile,

tell everyone that you should only get married

the way to talk, how you communicate with

once you don’t need anything from anyone,

other people, what you choose to eat. It’s a

because then you just complement one and

very complex thing and in my opinion what

other perfectly.

you choose to be – it’s the message you’re sending, how the world sees you.

How do you keep the creative spark alive? Our home is very important to us and we

You began your career as a lawyer, what

work on it together, we’ve definitely found a

was it that later charmed you toward

creative bond in that. Everything you find is

fashion?

organic, designed and created by us. Every

I studied law for 12 years, but my admiration

time something else is complete we use it

for fashion was always there, it started

as an excuse to host all of our friends for a

when I read my first fashion magazine as a

celebration. We’re always having fun, that’s

child. I was always so busy working in law

what life is about.

and being a young parent that I wanted to my approach to later be from the angle of

Tell us about your favourite place in the

someone who consumes fashion and has

world?

worked for it, not necessarily someone who

Ibiza, always. That’s where I’m Zen, the

was part of the industry.

energy there is infectious. The island has the most beautiful people and it allows for

Have you always been creative?

so much freedom. The beautiful weather,

Absolutely. I grew up in Russia and

people, activities, sunsets, music and food

everything was very limited, so I had to be!

– its spirit is alive.

I would often wear a concoction of my mum and dad’s wardrobes. I didn’t want to look

What does passion mean to you?

like everyone else.

It’s where your heart is and what you choose to focus your mind on at that point in time

Where do you look to for inner strength?

– it’s what your soul is asking of you right

I have a motto, ‘Always say yes’. I also know

then and there.

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M OJEH W o man

Bride-to-be Lilian Afshar – designer behind L’Afshar clutches – lets us in on the inspirations for her upcoming nuptials.

Summer of

Love

Honeymoon hotspot: Cuba | Pre-wedding pampering: Turkish bath, hydration facial and a hot stone massage | Dream wedding location: Capri | Favourite bridal designers: Marchesa and Zuhair Murad | Wedding planning tips: I haven’t started planning yet. All tips are highly appreciated! | Favourite flowers: Tuberose, jasmine and heirloom roses | Summer or winter wedding: Summer | Favourite wedding song: Can’t Help Falling In Love, Elvis Presley | Favourite colour: Sky blue | Favourite jeweller: Harry Winston | Beauty must-haves: Caudalie Beauty Elixir, Laura Mercier Foundation Primer, Giorgio Armani Lip Maestro, David Mallet hair Mallett and Le Labo Iris perfume | Occasion wear brands: Sandro, Mary Katrantzou, Galvan | Favourite shoe designer: Azzedine Alaïa | Favourite dessert: Pavlova | Hair-up look: Soft Images courtesy of Lilian Afshar and Corbis

up-do | Favourite regional brand for evening wear: Madiyah Al Sharqi | Most suitable L’Afshar bag for the evening: Metallic crushed ice | Final words: I do

202

F i n al N ote

Playful

Partners

Throw caution to the wind and invest in pieces that defy the traditions of occasion-wear. In Damasâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; bracelet, the tiara moves from heads to hands for a modern day take on princess favourites while the customary emerald gets a shake up with hot pink sapphires. Your final touch neednâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t necessarily be the most obvious one.

Jawaher bracelet with diamond, ruby and emerald, DAMAS JEWELLERY

Emerald earrings, DAMAS JEWELLERY

Photographed by AMBER GRAY

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