ISSUE 28 by MOJEH

NÂ° 28

JUNE

THE BEAUTY OF STYLE

16 Chairman SHAHAB IZADPANAH

EDITORIAL

PUBLISHING

Editor in Chief MOJEH IZADPANAH

Publishing Director RADHIKA NATU

Associate Editor SHERI IZADPANAH

Publishing Assistant DESIREE LABANDA-GAVERIA

Managing Editor KELLY BALDWIN

Junior Publishing Assistant Kisada Hurin

Fashion Writer susan devaney

Paris Representative GHISLAIN DE CASTELBAJAC

Senior Editorial Assistant Natalie Trevis

Senior Advertisement Manager Pamela Bayram Cleave

Editorial Assistant CHarlotte codd jemma walker

Advertising Inquiries Tel: +971 4 553 90 49 Email: advertising@mojeh.com

MOJEH Men Group Jake Hamilton Christopher Prince

Subscription Tel: +971 4 553 90 49 Email: subs@mojeh.com

Guest Fashion Stylists CHRISTINE DE LASSUS EMILY LEE SOFIA ODERO

LOUIS FOURTEEN FOR MOJEH Concierge Service Management ASSMA AHMED

ART

Corporate Manager JUBRAN HAMATI

Producer LOUIS AGENCY

Manager IT Division Ali Roman

Art Director AMIRREZA AMIRASLANI

Senior Stylist MARIAN GIRGIS

Graphic Designer Balaji Mahendran Digital Strategy LOUIS AGENCY Contributing Photographers JULIO GAMBOA MARCO CELLA SARVENAZ HASHTROUDI

Cover photographed by Julio Gamboa, model wears Chanel.

Published under HS Media Group FZ LLC Registered at Dubai Design District Building No. 8, Offices 212 P.O.Box 502333, Dubai, UAE. WWW.MOJEH.COM Louis Fourteen for MOJEH Follow us on Twitter @MOJEH_Magazine MOJEH Swiss Representative Office: Rue de Rive 4, 1204 Geneva, Switzerland Average qualified circulation (January-June 2014): 14,184 copies. For the UAE printed by Emirates Printing Press LLC. Distribution- UAE: Al Nisr Distribution LLC. Qatar: Dar Al Sharq. Bahrain: Jashanmal & Sons BSC (C). Oman: United Media Services LLC. Lebanon: Messageries Du Moyen-Orient The publishers regret that they cannot accept liability for error or omissions contained in this publication, however caused. The opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessary those of the publishers. Readers are advised to seek specialist advice before acting on information contained in this publication which is provided for general use and may not be appropriate for the readers particular circumstances. The ownership of trademark is acknowledged, therefore reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. All credits are subjects to change. Copyright HS MEDIA GROUP FZ LLC 2011

M o j eh C o ntent s

SOCIETY 24. INSPIRATION SNAPSHOT What will we be investing in this season? Our summer picks will reflect a healthier, happier you.

26. ZEST FOR LIFE As the season changes so too will your go-to scents. Discover the best spring/summer fragrance launches – all with a zesty citrus spritz.

34. THE GOOD LIFE Could you make the switch? We take a look at what it means to go vegan in 2015.

FASHION 37. Chanel Takes Salzburg

62. MODEL AS MUSE

From Kendall Jenner in a top hat to Cara Delevingne

Who was Jeanne? As Dior takes to Japan for the first

in white lace, join us for a backstage look at Chanel’s

time since 1953, we explore the unique relationship

Métiers d’Art collection.

between Christian Dior and his original muse.

50. DESIGNERS WITHOUT BORDERS

66. KAFTAN CALLING

Meet designer Andraya Farrag of Bedouin, who tells

The kaftan is back. Find out why it’ll be taking up space

us why fashion should always feel free-spirited.

in your wardrobe this summer.

52. HARDER, BETTER, FASTER, STRONGER

68. ANGEL OF THE SUN

Are we shifting from stick thin to strong and lean?

Her world is as glamorous as she. A Bikini A Day

We investigate the rising trend of striving for a

and Monday Swimwear co-founder Natasha Oakley

healthier physique.

lets us into her life.

ACCESSORIES 110. FOOTSTEPS OF FERRAGAMO He’s had large shoes to fill. We meet James Ferragamo, the grandson of the original Salvatore.

114. SHOES BY NUMBERS We play a game of numbers with shoe designer Anas Younis, the man behind the shoe label Aennis Eunis.

117. PIECES OF ME Jewellery designer Alia Mouzannar shares with us her sentimental personal pieces that have influenced her life and work.

BEAUTY

CULTURE

124. THE WEIGHT OF WATER

136. SUMMER STYLE GETAWAY

As the summer heat of Dubai looms, we investigate

She knows what we want before we do. We meet Shira

the daily effects of a life with (or without) water.

Suveyke the VP of Global Buying at TheOutnet.com.

130. ‘TIS THE SEASON…

142. OUR FUTURE IN CURATION

What will you be eating this summer? MOJEH

MOJEH contributor Jareh Das discusses the presence

contributor Oliver Robinson investigates why seasonal

of Middle Eastern artwork at Venice Biennale 2015.

eating is high on our agenda.

132. SUMMER SECRETS

148. LET’S STAY TOGETHER Are you looking for a great read this summer? Turn

How do they do it? We delve into the fitness regimes

the pages of Fendi’s story behind their long-standing

of Victoria’s Secret Angels.

collaboration with Karl Lagerfeld.

E d i t o r ’s L ette r

Taking Form

into their healthy lifestyles? The fashion powers in Paris passing rulings discouraging the use of underweight models? Or closer to home, we as women becoming more and more turned off by trends that require 0% body fat? Trickle up or trickle down, I’m more concerned with the effect, which has so far been inspiring. With that in mind, we felt it criminal not to add a Health and Beauty issue to our yearly rota. In many ways fashion’s big buzzword this season - ‘bohemia’, feeds into of options should you choose to adopt aspects

approach our lifestyles and our bodies. No longer

of the lifestyle. In Bohemian Beauty we put you

does ‘skinny’ bring satisfied smiles to the faces

to the test: could you take the au naturel runway

of the fashion set as ‘healthy’ has overtaken as

trend and embrace it at more than just a skin

the buzzword of choice. Similarly, calorie counting

deep level by turning towards organic, natural

isn’t deemed cool and instead we’re counting (or

remedies? Would you even know what to look

discounting) additives. ‘Boney’ has been brushed

for? We investigate. Veganism - there’s another

aside in favour of ‘strong’ as our instagram feeds

word experiencing a resurgence. Find out what

are fuelled by fit girls hitting the weight room or

aspects of the ‘clean life’ can work for you. Then

boxing ring. It’s the perfect fit. For years we’ve

in fashion we’re sharing all the styles and trends to

fought to become strong and empowered in

accompany you through your summer holiday from

terms of status, so surely the same should be

SS15’s jewelled take on activewear to Chanel’s

reflected in our bodies? It’s difficult to decipher

Salzburg collection, perfect for your city breaks.

what fuelled the shift. Influential models such as

Stylish, Sophisticated and Strong. The three S’s

Karlie Kloss and Doutzen Kroes offering insights

keeping me motivated this summer.

Follow me on Twitter and Instagram @Mojeh_I and write to me at editor@mojeh.com

Mojeh Izadpanah Editor in Chief

Photographed by MARCO CELLA

these same ideals. And so we’re offering an excess This year we’re seeing a seismic shift in the way we

E d i t o r ’s S N A P SH OT s

Summer signals bronzed skin that perfectly offsets brighter shades. Cool off and take a dip into colours and print, whether in Stella Jean’s striking swimsuit or Reemami’s cut-away coat.

BURBERRY PRORSUM

INSP IRATION SNA PSHOT

Healthy, Happy Come summer we all look to improve our fitness. Now more than ever health has become the most fashionable accessory - but that doesn’t mean you have to turn your back on other pieces of eye candy. Loewe’s Amazona bag is the perfect for throwing in your gym kit, whilst Estée Lauder will leave skin glowing.

B e a u ty S n ap s hot

Flavour your scents with crisp citrus notes this season. Whether you reach for Versace’s Sicilian lemon or Jo Malone’s Grapefruit Cologne, turn to the fruit bowl for a fresh summer fragrance. Clockwise from top: JO MALONE, Grapefruit Cologne | CHANEL, Chance Eau Fraiche | HERMÈS, Le Jardin De Monsieur Li | VERSACE, Eros Pour Femme | TOM FORD, Mandarino Di Amalfi

Jumbo glitter pieces adorn graphic eyeliner backstage at Dior Pre-Fall 2015 for a modern take on a kabuki-inspired beauty look. To create the look Peter Philips used Diorshow Pro liner Waterproof n°092 Pro Black, Dior Palette 5 Couleurs Designer n°008 Smoky Design and Diorshow khôl n°099 Smoky Black on the eyes.

Bright Eyes Graphic, glittery and kabuki inspired, embellished eyeliner was the beauty focus at the Dior 2015 pre-fall collection in Tokyo.

Futuristic looking and yet recalling the kabuki traditions of the show’s Tokyo location, the beauty look at the Dior 2015 pre-fall collection defined an ongoing trend for graphic shimmer that is all about the eyes. Created by Peter Philips, Creative and Image Director for Dior Makeup, cubic black eyeliner in the centre of the eye, extending both above and below, created a Geisha lip effect that was icily punctuated by the crystalline highlight of oversized glitter pieces. The dramatic eyes posed a perfect foil for the sexy minimalism of Raf Simons’ collection. ‘I wanted to design a make-up

Apply dots of eyelash glue to the upper eyelid and affix glitter or crystals for a flash of summer shine.

look that had a very strong visual impact, focusing on an ‘electric’ eye that was both graphic and abstract,’ explains Philips. Simple to recreate, the key to this look is its stark architectural lines - the rest of the face can be left as bare as you dare. It’s possible to give eyes even more definition by using Philips’ subtle touch of applying mascara only to the central eyelashes; a universal trick for opening up the eyes. Pare back the trend for an every day beauty look by using a shimmer filled or bold hued eyeliner all the way across the upper eyelid for that classic cat eye with a twist. With Mary Katrantzou, Proenza Schouler and Fendi taking up the mantle of exaggerated graphic eyes for AW15, this is no time to put down the liquid eyeliner.

All images courtesy of Dior. Pre-Fall 2015, Dior show Backstage. Dior make-up created and styled by Peter Philips. Photography by Kevin Tachman for Christian Dior Parfums.

B e a u ty N ote

B e a u ty F o c u s

Olivier backstage working with Natalia Vodianova on the Spring collection in 2015. Photography by Julien Berger for Guerlain.

P erfect

Imperfections Olivier Ă&#x2030;chaudemaison is the longstanding creative director of Guerlain, who has lent his makeup artistry to every beautiful face of recent decades and collaborated with icons from photographer Helmut Newton to couturier Jean-Louis Scherrer. We sit down with the effervescent Olivier to find out just what continues to inspire his love of all things beauty. By Natalie Trevis

Vintage photographs of Olivierâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s work as featured in his book Colors of My Life, published by Le Cherche Midi in 2004.

When you are creating a new product or coming up with a new look, where do you find your inspiration? Colours, fashion, moods, intuition… Every season brings new colour trends, reflecting the mood of the world: politically or [in terms of] feelings. As we work between 15 and 18 months ahead, we have to foresee what’s coming up, the movements around us… I always try to discover something new. I travel a lot and I get inspired by many different cultures. You’ve worked with some of the most beautiful faces of the 21st century, is there one encounter that sticks in the memory? There were many of them, many beautiful, elegant women who truly lived up to their status: Grace and Caroline of Monaco, Audrey Hepburn, Ava Gardner, Romy Schneider and the most beautiful face I have ever seen: Liz Taylor! I love women for their diversity, their own personality, they are very inspiring. Olivier working with Guerlain ambassador Michelle Yeoh.

What is the moment in your career of which you are most proud? I have had many challenging positions

Where is your favourite place on earth?

in my life and I consider all of them to

Paris, of course! There is a beautiful

be inspiring adventures. Though I have

harmony where the light and the sky are

to admit that joining Guerlain was a kid’s

in perfect unison. The thing that I regret is

dream. I always loved the house and it

the bad mood of taxi drivers and waiters!

reminds me of wonderful memories. There were so many opportunities, so many

What has influenced you most during

paths to explore. The French perfume

your career?

and cosmetics house felt like a sleeping

Fashion, design, Paris! An illustrator like

beauty to me.

René Gruau. A couturier like Givenchy, Yves Saint Laurent or Claude Montana.

Is there a lesson or piece of advice that you have carried with you throughout

Do you agree that old-Hollywood

your career?

mystery has been replaced today by

Discover your real personality and reveal

the notion of celebrity and how does

it: Never change, stay true. Keep passion

this impact on the beauty world?

and energy!

Old

Hollywood

was

stylish

and Natalia Vodianova for Terracotta Joli Teint by Guerlain.

with a beautiful KissKiss [Guerlain lipstick] and get the party started! What are the essential beauty products that women should include in their daily routines? One powder, such as Terracotta Joli Teint. It will give you a natural and glowy radiance. One lipstick, not too light otherwise it won’t have any effect at night. One mascara such as Cil D’Enfer: Black always works. One perfume, to revive the [senses]. When it comes to a big event such as a wedding day or red carpet event, how should women vary their makeup routines? One intense lipstick with a true colour, which gives you radiance and changes the face. But never disguise yourself. Don’t go from no makeup to a catwalk look with fake eyelashes and glitter. What is the one beauty mistake that we should avoid? Natalia Vodianova for Guerlain’s Spring collection, Les Tendres.

To follow trends blindly! To wear colours which don’t work with the skin or too sophisticated. Stars were spreading

much makeup which can erase the

an attitude and used it as a trademark.

personality. I love makeup but I am not

Fashion and makeup were about revealing

sure I like a full palette on a face.

personality with a classy and elegant attitude. While today, celebrities need

What does beauty mean to you and

to be seen, watched, distinguished at

how have your ideals of beauty

any cost and we have this overstatement

changed over the years?

also in beauty.

Everyone has their own beauty! Beauty can be not only as we know, ‘Big eyes,

Olivier and Natalia backstage, as featured in Colors of My Life.

What are the three simplest things a

beautiful skin, gorgeous lips’, but

woman can do to refresh her beauty

‘imperfections’ can be beautiful too.

look?

As we know, beauty comes from the

For freshness, a hint of pink-coral blush will

inside, personality and style are beauty.

always have an effect. You can also apply

Feeling good and confident, thanks to

powder with a big brush to get a smooth

your makeup, makes you shine and look

finish and introduce radiance to the face at

beautiful. Or more simply, a woman in

the end of the day. Brighten up your lips

love always looks beautiful.

Tal k ing P o i nt

The Good Life Veganism is growing in popularity as a means of countering the environmental and personal cost of the industries that sustain our lifestyles. Could you make the switch? Should you? We take a look at what it means to go vegan. By Natalie Trevis

vegan recipes, but a glimpse into an appealing world of clean living, glossy ponytails and perfect exercise routines. Realistic? Perhaps not, but it is certainly aspirational. Regardless of the demographic of the vegan majority, the health and environmental benefits of a vegan diet are well documented and the growing movement is having a real impact on the way we all eat, whether we know it or not. Research from Mintel found that 12 percent of global food and drink products launched in 2013 carried a vegetarian claim (up from six percent in 2009) and two percent carried a vegan claim (up from one percent). Moreover, the Vegetarian Resource Group estimates that 16 million people or 5 per cent of the population in the US are vegetarian (half of

vegetarian, does not use animal products

since 2009. One of the environmental highs

Environmental Coverage revealed that stories

or by-products such as eggs, dairy, honey,

of a vegan diet is the guilt-free conscience

mentioning Beyoncé Knowles-Carter are

leather, fur, silk, wool, or cosmetics derived

that comes from not contributing to the

eleven times more common in the US media

from animal products. Veganism is celebrated

dire environmental consequences of rearing

than stories mentioning deforestation. It’s little

within an enthusiastic and health-conscious

livestock. Raising animals for food takes up a

surprise then that the world paid attention

community as an ethical choice for mind,

huge 30 percent of the world’s ice-free surface

when Beyoncé turned vegan for three weeks

body and environment. But is there any truth

and according to the United Nations Food and

in December 2013. Taking the 22 Days Vegan

in the suggestion that it is just another form

Agriculture Organisation produces 18 percent

Challenge – 22 because psychologists believe

of food elitism brought to the fore by celebrity

of the world’s greenhouse gas emissions (World

that it takes 21 days to break a habit - Beyoncé

endorsement? Are the actors, musicians and

Watch believes it to be more like a staggering

entrusted trainer and plant-based nutrition

editors frequenting hip vegan cafes such as

51 percent). Not to mention its adverse

expert Marco Borges to guide her through the

Café Gratitude in LA (wearing what looks a lot

effects on biodiversity. Scientists on the UN

program. ‘All you have to do is try. If I can

like a Christopher Kane jacket complete with

Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change

do it, anyone can,’ she testified. Acing the

fox fur collar in Beyonce’s case) following a

suggest that we need to reduce greenhouse

‘spiritual and physical cleanse’, as husband

restricted diet as yet another high maintenance

gases in the atmosphere by 80 per cent by 2050

and fellow fledgling vegan Jay Z referred to it,

validation of self worth and wealth, or perhaps

in order to avoid catastrophic climate change.

she committed to include more plant-based

even a form of misguided faux-spirituality? A

With such chilling forewarnings, vegetables

foods in her diet long term. She also saw a

British Medical Journal study found that non-

suddenly take on a significance beyond our

savvy business opportunity in veganism, a life

meat eaters were more likely to be female, to be

personal five-a-day goal.

choice that counts Natalie Portman, Jared Leto

of higher occupational social class and to have

At a micro level, a vegan diet minimises the

and Jessica Chastain among its devotees. In

higher academic or vocational qualifications.

intake of cholesterol and saturated fats while

collaboration with Borges, Beyoncé recently

And perhaps therefore the time, money and

increasing fibre and nutrient levels. Some

launched vegan delivery service 22 Days

opportunity to prepare a nourishing plant-based

studies go further, reports Toni Tarver of Food

Nutrition. You too can now eat like Queen Bey.

diet. Lifestyle blogs such as Deliciously Ella

Technology, suggesting that developments in

The Vegetarian Resource Group defines a

and Gwyneth Paltrow’s Goop are digital bibles

nutritional genomics show that plant-based

vegan as someone who, in addition to being

offering not only a visually tempting daily array of

diets either minimise or completely eliminate

Left image courtesy of bma (NG)/Corbis and right image courtesy of Ina Peters/Westend61/Corbis.

whom are vegan), a number that has doubled A study by the Project for Improved

‘‘

Fresh fruits, vegetables, pulses, nuts and seeds are very nutrient dense and very alkalising for the body.

the genetic propensity to develop chronic

of going vegan. ‘People tend to eat too many

diseases like type 2 diabetes, cardiovascular

grains and other carbohydrates that can cause

certain clients. ‘Veganism is not for everyone.’ Diet aside, it is becoming easier (and perhaps

disease, and even cancer. Food for thought. ‘If

many digestive problems.’ A lack of variety

even essential) to make vegan choices in other

done properly, a vegan diet may cut out many

could also lead to nutritional deficiencies.

areas of life, as a sense of personal social

processed foods,’ says Lily Mueller, Nutrition

‘Poorly planned vegetarian diets may be low

responsibility for the planet grows. The fashion

Coach at Dubai Herbal and Treatment Centre.

in vitamin B12 and B2, calcium, omega 3 fatty

world might once have looked with disdain on

‘Non-organic, meat and dairy products can

acids, vitamin D, Iron, Zinc and Iodine,’ she

vegan clothing, but with high profile industry

be full of growth hormones, antibiotics and

adds, recommending good quality supplements

players turning to fully vegan materials and

possibly other chemicals,’ she notes. ‘Fresh

as an essential part of a vegan regime. ‘It’s

sustainable methods of production, it can no

fruits, vegetables, pulses, nuts and seeds are

often a personal choice for either ethical or

longer turn a perfectly contoured cheek. The

very nutrient dense and very alkalising for the

health reasons, and if it is done properly and

quality of cruelty-free fabrics like micro-suede,

body, therefore creating an alkaline environment

you make sure your body is well nourished

faux cashmere and of course imitation fur is

rather than an acidic one. Diseases usually

with a variety of good quality vegan foods, it

constantly improving. Faux-fur gained traction

thrive in an acidic environment.’

could be fine for some,’ she explains. ‘There

in the collections this year, as anyone who

One of the charges often leveled against a

are people with certain health conditions that

has lusted after a colourful Shrimps chubby

vegan diet is that it is lacking in protein. Is it

would fare better including some good quality

or Tommy Hilfiger gilet can attest. Advances

really possible to eat enough quinoa, chickpeas

animal protein in their diet, including children

in polymer chemistry mean that polyurethane

and tofu to sustain a healthy body and mind?

who still have a lot of growing to do.’ Indeed,

too is now lighter, cheaper, more pliable and

Proponents say yes: nuts, leafy greens, beans

Mueller follows a nutritional protocol that

ages better than real leather. Joseph Altuzarra

and soy being a few of the best sources, but

advocates quality animal protein and fat to

actively chooses to work with ‘faux’ textiles

Mueller is cautious about some of the dangers

heal the gut and other related health issues in

for their attributes more than their altruistic

36 cotton market – much more than a change in production standards is required. ‘It is an action and a state of being, a shift of awareness from ‘ego’ to ‘eco’-system. To avoid sustainability being just another buzzword, it needs to speak to our fundamental beliefs and values,’ says Sandra. ‘I feel like we’re creating a brave new world combining high-end taste with the latest innovation while considering the longevity of planet earth and its inhabitants. It’s even easier for luxury fashion [to change] because of the price points, and sometimes the luxury market can be even more pioneering.’ One consistent advocate of sustainable luxury fashion is Stella McCartney. Raised on an organic farm in the English countryside, she Beyoncé and Jay Z took the 22 Day Vegan Challenge

was influenced by her mother, Linda McCartney, a photographer and fervent animal rights activist. Carrying her personal beliefs into her professional world, McCartney has never used fur, animal skins or animal glues in her collections. An ethos of sustainability defines her entire business. ‘I think that I’m a fairly responsible person in an industry that is not known for being responsible,’ she told us in an interview published in MOJEH issue 23. ‘I think you can still deliver as good a product if not just about using the same expected materials,’ she explains. Stella’s challenge to the norms of the industry has helped to effect real change. This year Kering, the brand’s long-term partner, will complete its first environmental profit and loss statement, detailing the environmental impact of its business activities across all of

Stella McCartney AW15

Vegan advocate, Natalie Portman

its luxury brands. It has also set impressive sustainability targets for 2016. ‘I like to think I have shown the group alternatives,’ says Stella, ‘they’d never made a veggie shoe before I

connections. ‘The poly-leather is incredibly

it’s difficult to make a case against the use of

came along. What we do influences people

luxurious, the way it wears over time,’ he

this new wave of vegan materials. ‘For leather

and hopefully that will lead to positive change.’

said of his AW13 collection, which teemed

we work with recycled polyester and for silk

There are those for whom veganism is not a

with cropped bombers and panelled bodycon

we use Newlife fibres,’ says Sandra Umann

passing lifestyle trend or a fad, it’s a way of

dresses. ‘There’s something sort of magical

of high-fashion vegan line Umasan. ‘These

life that infiltrates every decision from food to

about its properties.’

fabrics are more functional than silk and have

business to fashion. And while not a blanket

PETA might agree that the magical property

natural antibacterial agents, allowing the skin

dietary solution for everyone, it may pique

of man made fabric is the absence of animal

to breathe, and they are easy to care for. We

a wider social or environmental conscience

cruelty: each year its Vegan Fashion Awards

also work with SeaCell (seaweed), micromodal

in the rest of us, or just a sense of greater

celebrates brands from vegan shoe line

(beech wood), and Tencel (eucalyptus wood),

mindfulness, that proves a positive vehicle

Cri de Coeur to Rag & Bone to VAUTE by

which have different therapeutic properties for

for change. Whether turning to flexitarianism

Leanne Mai-ly Hilgart for their vegan-friendly

warming, cooling, and moving with the body.’

(part-time vegetarianism) as advocated by the

efforts. Amber Valletta’s online collaboration

The luxury market is under pressure to examine

McCartney family’s Meat Free Monday project,

with Yoox, Master and Muse, curates ethical

its ecological footprint. With increasing focus

toting a leather-free handbag or just enjoying a

brands and collections, aiming to ‘bridge the

on the human cost of low-wage production

self-consciously healthy vegan meal delivered

gap between cutting-edge fashion and mindful

methods in developing countries and a calling

by Beyoncé, there’s a vegan journey out there

manufacturing’, while Organic by John Patrick

out of ‘greenwashing’ - yes, that capsule t-shirt

for everyone. ‘It’s not always about diet alone’,

was an early adopter of sustainable practices,

collection might be made with organic cotton

adds Mueller. ‘In order to achieve good mental

leading the way in maintaining exceptional

but it immediately loses its eco-credibility if it

and physical health one needs to find a good

style without compromising his beliefs. As

is not ethically manufactured or if it created

balance in life between personal and work life,

the archaeology of fashion begins to change,

a temporary false bubble in the organic

exercise, rest and relaxation, sleep and love.’

Top image, photography by Andrew H. Walker/Getty Images. Bottom left image courtesy of Gorunway. Bottom right image, photography by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images

better because it’s about the creativity and not

Chanel Takes Salzburg Photographed by Benoit Peverelli

Opting to show their MĂŠtiers dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Art collection in not one but two locations, Chanel took the fashion crowd from Salzburg to tread the well-known paths of New York City.

Fa sh i o n i n F o cu s

It’s no secret that Austria was held in high esteem for Gabrielle Chanel. The (now) iconic Chanel jacket was inspired by a liftboy’s uniform in Salzburg’s Mittersill Hotel. Lagerfeld’s use of edelweiss embroideries, wildflower blooms and breezy chiffon are direct inspirations from the much-loved Sound of Music (which celebrates its 50th anniversary this year). Updated, stripped back and given a fresh appeal, it was style at its best. Lagerfeld couldn’t bring the historic Schloss Leopoldskron with him, but the feathered hats and breeches brought a sense of the European setting to another continent. Lara Stone opened the show in a black skirt suit. Wide-legged tuxedo trousers and frilled collars traversed the runway. Opulent frills adorned the cuffs of romantic flouncy dresses – like the one paraded by Lindsey Wixson in a beautiful pale blue chiffon - and feathers and butterflies gently floated across multiple dresses. It was thanks to Hubert Barrère, artistic director of Maison Lesage, that the intricate detailing was so very Delicately embroidered blooms in cream were captured across the classic Chanel jacket. With each one drawing references from the opulence and grandeur of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Sam McKnight styled each and every model’s hair, opting for carefree curls and sophisticated half-up dos.

A darkly romantic dress (modelled by Edie Campbell) told the historic tale of Austria. Intricate floral embroidery was scattered across the creation with ease – evoking a sense of the country’s landscape.

Kendall Jenner and Cara Delevingne modelled white and blacktiered lace dresses with velvet waist belts. Desrues, the jewellery and button maker, created the chokers containing a filigree metal heart – all enamelled by molten glass.

A beautiful pale blue chiffon dress was modelled by Lindsey Wixson. Adorned across the chest was a small piece of art. From hand beaded detailing to complex appliqué it was picture perfect Austria.

545 hours of work by embroiderer Lesage included butterflies and feathers – all embroidered with a ‘luneville’ hook, using 25,000 sequins and micro-beads. Then the feathers were added using needlework embroidery, taking 98 hours.

Earmuffs were added as a fun-filled accessory to the collection. Desrues, the jewellery and button maker, created brooches made of a cascade of freshwater pearls with molten glass, and a scattering of mini metal oak leaves.

Chic bomber jackets required 330 hours of needlework in gold braid yarn. Layered tulle collars added an historic element to ensembles – with an air of elegance and innocence. Make-up was kept soft and simple with a flush of pink on the cheeks and lips – and a gilded glitter accent across eyelids.

The black felt hats by Maison Michel were moulded by hand and decorated with ostrich and chicken feathers. Splattered across coats were intricately embroidered pieces of woodlandlike inspiration in red, green and white.

exquisite, very couture. It is of no secret that he is responsible for the fashion world’s embroidery, continuing the craftsmanship of François Lesage. From delicate butterflies to multi-layered feathered skirts, hours upon hours of work were poured into each and every detail. Taking a bucolic and historic theme, accessories were given the must-have seal of approval, from patent lace-up boots to simple suede loafers, they all evoked a part of Austrian tradition. But it was the trims and braiding across jackets that brought the Austrian muse into the 21st century, and very close to couture. It may have been staged in December of last year at a castle in Salzburg, Austria but it came to life in the energy-driven city of New York. From Pharrell to Beyoncé to the daughter of Johnny Depp and Vanessa Paradis making her well-received debut, the stars took to the front row in a well-lit alignment (not that we would expect anything less from Chanel). Not to mention a collaborative performance from Pharrell and Cara Delevingne whose five-song set was an after party made only for Chanel.

Fa sh io n IN F O C US

Streetwear goes back to basics with minimal shapes and clean palettes. Pare back your jewellery to complement your outfit - Bulgari’s Octo watch and Messika’s understated bracelet will speak volumes in their simplicity. Trainers

Urban Lady 5 7

1 2

If there is one thing we learn from street style, it’s that a statement accessory goes a long way. Follow the example set at fashion week and invest in playful pieces. It’s up to you whether you let your bag take the lead or embrace the eye-catching trend with a quirky mix-and-match. 1. CHANEL | 2. KENZO | 3. CHLOÉ at Harvey Nichols – Dubai | 4. ANYA HINDMARCH at Saks Fifth Avenue – Dubai | 5. CHARLOTTE OLYMPIA | 6. COACH | 7. FENDI

Stop and Stare 6 5

42 2 1

Festival dressing should be simple and easy. Whether you choose to slip on Bedouin’s sheer shirtdress or go for shorts and Emilio Pucci’s hippie-inspired waistcoat, keep your look from getting too complicated and add embellishment through textures and rainbow shades that would otherwise look out of place together. 1. DANIELA VILLEGAS | 2. EMILIO PUCCI @stylebop.com | 3. CHLOÉ @net-a-porter.com | 4. BEDOUIN | 5. SOPHIA WEBSTER at Saks Fifth Avenue – Dubai | 6. LOUIS VUITTON

Colour Wheel 5

Headwear is the ultimate accessory for 2015 and Hermès’ straw hat adds a preppy finishing touch while Saint Laurent brings edge with Slimane’s rocker vibe. Make your fashion mark while keeping cool and out of the sun. 3 1. JAEGER-LECOULTRE | 2. TALITHA @net-a-porter.com | 3. HERMÈS | 4. LANVIN @matchesfashion.com | 5. VALENTINO @mytheresa. com | 6. SAINT LAURENT BY HEDI SLIMANE | 7. BARABOUX

Hats Off 7

M o j eh F eatu r e

Pretty Little Things, photographed by Amber Gray, MOJEH Issue 22.

Bohemian

Beauty From fashion to politics, as a wave of New Bohemia filters its way across society, Susan Devaney investigates the rise of organic living and a burgeoning beauty market.

As the sun rises and spreads its rays across the

and how are the brands contributing to this overhaul?

sun-drenched crops, everything comes to life. Vast

If you type #eatclean into Google, you will be met with

acres of the great unknown lay unexplored before

over 21 million results - it’s a top trending hashtag on

her. She’s sipping on her ‘green juice’ made from her

Instagram. Posting a photo of your healthy meal and

garden’s produce and her skin is glowing. The world

healthy workout in the gym (to convey your healthy

in which she resides is carefree, pure and unspoilt.

mindset) is becoming more commonplace. You’ve

Maybe she’s you?

eradicated all of the chemicals, all of the nasties and

Adopting a ‘clean, green lifestyle’ has been on the

you’re ‘clean’. From Jessica Alba to Stella McCartney,

rise in recent years as our society becomes more

celebrities are conveying their efforts to adopt a greener

accustomed to our environment, our bodies and the

lifestyle. Jessica Alba’s The Honest Company creates

future of our planet. It may be (and is more than likely)

planet-friendly products. For years Stella McCartney

attributing to the surge of bohemia (yes, it’s back).

has refused to use fur or leather as a designer, and

Reaching for our roots, being at one with nature and

herself lives a very holistic lifestyle. According to the

turning our backs on chemically induced products and

Organic Trade Association (OTA), in 2013, sales across

produce is a growing trend. But is it a lifestyle fit for all

America for organic products grew by 11.5 percent

Photographed by Eric Cahan, Corbis. EARTH TU FACE and TATA HARPER, net-a-porter.com.

ethically harvested crops, environmentally-friendly packaging, no pesticides, GM, parabens (a chemical compound used as a preservative) and chemical fertilisers, but these aren’t fully enforceable. Unlike the organic food you buy, there are no legal standards for organic beauty products. Several products such as Urban Veda’s Purifying Body Scrub or Tata Harper’s Nourishing Oil Cleanser are actively pursuing the use of naturally derived ingredients, but they’ve still got a long way to go. So your current favourite natural moisturiser may well contain those chemicals you were actively trying to avoid. The key is to look for the Soil Association symbol on a beauty product before you buy. The Soil Association (along with four other

EARTH TU FACE, Face + Lips + Body @net-a-porter.com

European certified bodies) have created the Cosmetics Organic Standard. To gain this certification, 95 percent of a product’s agro-ingredients and 20 percent of the entire product must be organic. Or – look for the NonEU Agriculture logo that is mandatory for products which have at least 95 percent organic agricultural ingredients. This is a guarantee the ingredients used have been grown and processed under a very strict code of cleanliness, with no pesticides or fertilizers and no genetically modified organisms. This is an excellent start for a part of the industry that is still burgeoning and has lots of questions that need answering. Firstly, is there a difference between organic and natural – or are they the same thing? Take note: There’s a big difference. To label a product organic allows for approved certification. To date the European Union

GUY MORGAN APOTHECARY, Midnight Black Clay Purifying Facial Mask

has banned 1,377 ingredients in cosmetic products, to $35.1bn. The strongest growth the industry has

while the U.S Food and Drug Administration lists

witnessed in 5 years (with a prediction of a further

only 10. In 2013, according to Nutrition Business

12 percent this year). In 2010, the global demand for

Journal, the natural and organic personal care

organic produce grew to $59.1 billion – with the U.S

industry was worth $9.6bn. However, brands can

contributing as the largest domestic market for organic

easily label their products as ‘natural’. ‘Legally, this

food. It’s official: organic produce has filtered its way

means nothing – it’s a completely unregulated term

into our kitchens as we begin to think twice before

and should be thought of as pure marketing’, said

we buy whilst doing our weekly food shop. But this

Adina Grigore, author of Skin Cleanse: The Simple,

is on the inside, what new regimes are we starting to

All-Natural Program for Clear, Calm, Happy Skin. Of

adopt on the outside and how is the beauty industry

course, the product in question will contain some

contributing to the change?

naturally derived ingredients, but the majority can

The trending hashtag #natural has garnered over 18

still be full of synthetic components. ‘There has been

million results. From skincare to hair to the wilderness,

a massive trend towards natural product ingredients

we’re capturing, posting and looking for all things

in cosmetics and medicines, and there a few things

natural. ‘They are not rampant consumers - they react

that need to be pointed out, just because something

against consumerism and commercialism, but mostly

is natural doesn’t make it safe, phytochemicals are

in ways that create harmony. Bohemians have the

drugs too and should only be administered by trained

courage to reject mainstream society: to follow an

professionals, at the right dosages’, says Dr. Simon

ideal and forsake praise and security. Bohemians seek

Jackson of Dr. Jackson’s. With a Masters and PhD

the society of impossible natural beauty...an idealised

from Kings College in pharmacognosy, over 20 years

world...utopia’, writer Laren Stover, who documents

of research into plants, and living among indigenous

the life and culture of Bohemia in A Bohemian

tribes in Borneo, Dr. Jackson knows a thing or two

Manifesto: A Field Guide to Living on the Edge,

about natural ingredients. ‘Part of what I’m trying to

previously told us. It’s now a beauty buzzword, isn’t

do with my business is to help raise the benchmark

it? Natural. And organic. This labelling is being used

for products containing natural ingredients, something

from brand to brand – but what does it actually mean?

being sold with a one part in a million strength of such

Unfortunately, any product can be labelled as organic

and such a plant will never show efficacy, so I use

as long as 1 percent of the ingredients are certified

the best quality and highest dosage that regulations

as organically produced. General guidelines include

will allow for my products and I try not to mix too

AMAZON BEAUTY, Rahua Elixir

TATA HARPER, Nourishing Oil Cleanser @net-a-porter.com

48 many actives together, it’s always best not to have more than 5-6 key ingredients in any one formulation’, he says. The use of the word ‘non-toxic’ has grown considerably in its use across beauty products – but what does it mean? This (in its simplest terms) means the brand has refrained from using ingredients that have been linked to toxic responses in humans: Neuro-disruption, hormone disruption, cancer and even death. However, it’s a great marketing technique, right? And ‘hypoallergenic’? Any product can be marked with the word. ‘Fragrance’ or ‘parfum’ is a good cause for concern. This could literally mean anything with an undisclosed mixture of various scent chemicals and ingredients. Even if you’re not willing to make a complete jump to ESTELLE & THILD, Biocalm Soothing Eye Balm @net-a-porter.com

all natural and organic products, I urge you to look for products that are fragrance free, often clearly labelled as being so’, urges Guy Morgan of Guy Morgan Apothecary. Specialising in organic skincare, Morgan produces all of his handmade products in London. Trying to adopt an organic beauty regime is more than a little complicated, isn’t it? But the ingredients one should definitely avoid: propylene glycol (can cause allergic reactions if used in large dosages), mineral oil (a byproduct of the distillation of petroleum to produce petrol and is commonly found in baby lotions and

KORA, Vitamin Enchanced Lip Balm @net-a-porter.com

acne prevention products), petrochemicals (chemicals produced from petroleum), ethanolamines (used as an emulsifier in skin creams and can be a skin irritant to sensitive skin), and phthalates (used as plasticisers,

URBAN VEDA, Neem + Botanics, Purifying Body Scrub

DR. JACKSON’S, Coconut Melt @net-a-porter.com

– but they can be an irritant). And that’s just a few.

into our bodies, why wouldn’t we do the same for

But could you eradicate your bad beauty habits and

our skin on the outside?

go au naturel? World-renowned make-up artist Gucci

It requires a lot of extra time and effort to ensure

Westman has. Having spent her childhood surrounded

we’re purchasing products that are truly organic,

by fruit trees and bushes, spending her weekends

but companies are beginning to turn their attention

weeding her family’s ‘massive vegetable garden’ with

to consumers’ demand for change. Recently,

her brothers, she was educated from a young age

the chairman and CEO of Kering, François-Henri

on the value of all-things-home-grown. Westman’s

Pinault, championed sustainability and eco-friendly

parents were heavily influenced by Buddhism and

technologies during a discussion held at Parsons in

Hinduism, hence her healthy outlook and 20-minute

New York City. If the luxury sector can do it, everyone

meditation sessions every morning. She’s an advocate

can. As we continue to turn our attention back to

for growing her own vegetables at her Manhattan

the raw materials – we ask: why now? ‘People are

home, shops locally at the farmers’ market, uses only

also realising that just like food, when we apply

organic cleaning products and recycles everything.

something to our skin we are absorbing whatever may

After a trip to aluminium plants in Chile with fellow

come with that. This could potentially be chemicals

friend and celebrity Cameron Diaz, Westman adopted

and pesticides used to produce ingredients, or

new ways. Diaz has been an eco advocate for many

chemicals used to prolong the shelf life or add so-

years now, opting to drive a hybrid car and actively

called desirable qualities, such as thickeners and skin

educating others on being more eco-friendly. Oh,

conditioners’, says Morgan. Dr. Jackson is also in

and neither wear deodorant. Ever. Westman tries

agreement, as education appears to be the backbone

to avoid the use of toxic chemicals on her skin at

of our need for change. ‘Consumers are becoming a

all times (which can’t be easily achieved as an in-

lot more educated about their personal care products,

demand make-up artist). ‘You have to raise the bar

for example in France and Germany, local brands

overall because there are so many giant companies

use a lot more natural origin ingredients in their

that would have to revamp their ingredient list. It’s

formulations, and I hope that in the UK we will follow

a big challenge, but people are more interested in

suit and turn away from synthetic substitutes. With

going that direction’, she recently said. Westman

a more educated and aware consumer, producers

and Diaz both embody the ‘glowing from the inside

will have no choice but to improve standards and

out’ look. If we’re careful with what we eat and put

this can only be a good thing’, says Dr. Jackson.

Photographed by Mark A. Johnson, Corbis. ESTELLE & THILD and KORA, net-a-porter.com.

substances added to plastics to increase flexibility

Could you turn your back on your delightfully smelling

As we try to turn back the clock and reduce harmful

body wash? What about your can’t-live-without and

environmental factors on the planet, adopting a

all-time favourite blusher that contains too many

more bohemian beauty regime is also an integral

chemicals you can’t pronounce? Could you wave

part of this process. Some natural and non-toxic

goodbye and say hello to an organic beauty regime?

products may be currently only ticking half of the

Actively sourcing organic products to fit every aspect

boxes, but this will hopefully change. ‘Great skin

of our lives is truly adopting a whole new approach

is also more about a holistic approach and not just

to day-to-day living. ‘Ayurvedic medicine has been

topical applications. Nutrition and a healthy lifestyle,

around for about 2,000 years and Traditional Chinese

‘beauty from within’ not just on the outside, so I

Medicine even longer, but I don’t think that we are

think there will be an increase in supplements and

seeing a return. If we look globally, 95 percent of

nutritional products as well as an increase of high

the world’s population uses natural products for

quality science-led natural product formulations’,

their primary healthcare, I think it’s just that we are

says Dr. Jackson. As many of us wouldn’t be able to

starting to re-visit our elders knowledge and learn

fully let go of all the ‘nasties’, we’re truly beginning to

from them’, says Dr. Jackson. And learn we must.

make way for a healthier lifestyle and a greener planet.

d e sig n er f o c u s

Designer without

Borders For designer Andraya Farrag, fashion should feel freespirited, spontaneous and enduring. Through design house Bedouin, her collections reflect both a timeless and malleable character. We meet the designer on a sticky summer’s day in the Arabian Desert. It’s just before dusk (her pieces move from day to night with no adjustment needed), and the British born beauty presents herself fresh faced, hair gently curled and adorning a white slip-on fringe dress from her collection – like her designs, she is modest on the peripheral yet commanding at the core. No fuss necessary. Only three seasons in and the Central St. Martin’s graduate is perfectly in tune with today’s fashion system. Each season moves seamlessly into the next with the main point of differentiation boiling down to her colour code; soft lilacs and greyish silvers for summer glide into deep burgundies and emerald greens for winter. Silhouettes remain calm and borderline sporty, with loose fits and deconstructed designs. Femininity is found through the use of soft silks and prints that reference Mother Nature, such as SS15’s bamboo design, while boyishness is provided in the rough n’ ready, no frills attached approach to dressing. At the core of her collections lays intelligent design. This is a brand for women who no longer rely on seasonal buys and instead look towards an enduring wardrobe that moves in the same direction as she, whether it be tomorrow, next month, or the following year. ‘Sustainability is key in the traditional Bedouin lifestyle, therefore creating pieces that will stand the test of time is also key to our philosophy,’ says the designer. ‘The AW15 collection is inspired by a road trip through the Nevada desert taking note of the vast skies and landscape, vintage rodeo and star motifs,’ says the designer when asked what’s next. Unbounded, borderless and globalised. Today, as the sun sets out onto the vast sea, the scene couldn’t better serve Andraya and Bedouin. Unbounded, beautiful and without limits.

Andraya Farrag, photographed by Sarvenaz Hashtroudi at Saadiyat Beach Club, Abu Dhabi.

Tal k ing P o i nt

Harder, better, faster, stronger. The shift for women to strive more for the strong, lean and shredded physique of fitness-focused celebrities and Victoriaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Secret models, than the stick thin catwalk model frames, has been a slow and steady burn for a few seasons now. After a transitional phase of honing, toning and sculpting, it appears to have reached its peak. But is it too good to be true?

Even on the high street, with a wealth of health stores and fitness chains endorsing the trend and making a healthy lifestyle very much achievable by the masses, ‘strong’ has been living up to its name and crushing its feeble little sister, ‘skinny’. Fuelled by an army of fitness models on social media, the hashtag ‘fitspo’ has very much taken over from the worrying pro-anorexia websites and ‘thinspo’ of years past. So far so good, right? Perhaps, and here at MOJEH we are always striving to embrace health, wellness and a positive attitude to the female form – but only when done right. Below we shed light on what can happen when ‘strong’ becomes obsessed over just as much as ‘skinny’ once was. The two camps – strong, advocating high intensity workouts, clean eating and disciplined weight training as modelled by Victoria’s Secret models such as Izabel Goulart - and skinny, associated with calorie cutting, caffeine fuelled restrictive dieting and the famous words of Kate Moss that ‘nothing tastes as good as skinny feels,’ are both becoming more and more extreme, and neither, at their extremities, are good for our health. Somewhat ironically, it is the Couture fashion capital of Paris that has most recently made waves by imposing strict regulations upon the BMI and weight requirements of their fashion models, with the most severe of penalties imposed upon agencies who employ emaciated-looking models being a maximum six-month prison term and a fine of up to £54,000.

Emilio Pucci SS14

The problem with this, as admirable an effort as it is, is that one fashion capital alone cannot cure the epidemic of anorexic-looking models walking our catwalks. Many designers worldwide admit that they prefer to display their clothes upon thin models (Karl Lagerfeld has famously been dismissal of the model weight

mass. Some healthy but naturally slender

which involves an obsession with ‘healthy’

debate, having been quoted that he fails to see

models could easily find themselves unable

eating to the degree of restricting certain

the models as being too thin) because it adds

to work according to the BMI scale, whilst

food groups and an unhealthy focus on diet

to the fantasy element of selling the dream –

others with severe eating disorders may just

and consumption. Whilst physically strong

the perfect woman, the perfect wardrobe, the

scrape through the requirements despite being

and fuelled with superfoods, these models

perfect silhouette.

far from a picture of health.

are employed to look a certain way, and work

The second problem is that one size does

On the flipside, the vision of ‘strong’ which is

with a team of professionals covering all

not fit all when it comes to the issue of what

often promoted as the healthier ideal – most

aspects of their lifestyle to get them in peak

defines being underweight. Models in France

commonly associated in more commercial

condition. With rippling muscles and a body

are now required to produce documentation

markets than the fashion industry, is often

fat percentage which, for most of us, would

of a BMI (body mass index) of at least 18, yet

actually more difficult to achieve. Fuelled by

not only be unachievable and unmaintainable,

this measurement alone is inaccurate as it

excessive and punishing workouts, a rise

but verging on just as unhealthy as cutting

fails to take into consideration factors such

in clean eating which has recently led to an

calories in extremity, both in its physical

as height, frame, bone density and muscle

awareness of the eating disorder ‘orthorexia’

and mental strain. Many fitness models are

3.1. Phillip Lim SS15

otherwise, what would we buy into it for? The problem certainly went through a stage of extremity a few years ago, with designers such as Erdem and Emporio Armani using skeletal models to push boundaries, and Uruguayan model Luisel Ramos hitting the headlines after she collapsed and died from heart failure straight from the catwalk. Fashion is undoubtedly about creating a fantasy – yet it is easy to forget that for the models who sell that dream, the fantasy is very much their reality. With these extreme cases (hopefully) more in the past than the present, the French government’s decision to implement the regulations seems a little too late in the eyes of some, although arguably any step to encourage health and wellbeing amongst the fashion elite – and importantly those who buy into the fashion fantasy – is nothing but a positive step. For strong vs skinny, the jury is still out in terms of fashion, yet in terms of health, ‘strong’ well and truly lives up to it’s name. With the right balance - and no obsession - the ‘strong’ female form is a healthy ideal, much more so than a desire to become underweight. Yet neither are perfect, because neither are perfectly attainable. Most women simply just do not fit comfortably into either paradigm, which encourages nothing more than two, rather than one, unhealthy ideals for women to feel compelled to squeeze into. Of course, the two tribes will always be at war, as the two cover girls – strong and skinny – are, although similar in mental, psychological and bodily extremity, very different physical

Proenza Schouler SS15

models with neither being a perfect vision of health. They represent very different lifestyles at extremities and, in principal, this is fine for us mere mortals to use as inspiration for our wardrobes or our workouts. The danger of course, lies in the models who heavily airbrushed, especially for fitness

mind. It seems there could be nothing wrong

have to endure the ‘no pain no gain’ mentality to

competitions and photoshoots, and plastic

with ‘strong’ - let’s face it, they don’t call her

extremities which put their health and wellbeing

surgery is often commonly used to enhance

‘The Body’ for nothing, and there would be few

at risk, purely to succeed in their profession,

and further sculpt the physique, which is

fashion designers who would not want to see her

and for that, the step taken by the French

arguably just as extreme as the dieting

lean physique displaying their couture creations

authorities must be applauded and embraced.

lengths taken by some catwalk models.

and RTW pieces alike. Yet the catwalks are

Awareness is the first step to change, after

Strong, as an adjective, is one which empowers

not quite there with showcasing strength over

all, along with discussion and debate.

and centres. Consider icons such as Elle

skinniness, although the tabloids, social media

What we all need to embrace – the fashion

McPherson, who has had great success

sites and celebrity world certainly may be.

world, the fitness world, and all that spans

launching her ‘Miracle Elixir’ super greens

The long and short of the matter is that the

in between – is the third model of femininity

health supplement. She advocates a healthy

fashion world has long celebrated the elegance

- one where we feel fantastic knowing that

lifestyle encompassing fuelling your body with

of the clothed silhouette of extremely tall and

whether we are strong, skinny or somewhere

nourishing food, exercising to invigorate the

extremely slender models. Fashion must be

in between, our focus is our health, wellbeing

body and practising mindfulness to balance the

aspirational, especially at Haute Couture level,

and wearing the fashions which we love.

Fa sh io n ban q ue t

Gym Class For a luxurious sportswear look, turn to a clean palette Ackermannâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s blazer brings an androgynous feel and, when paired with Giuseppe Zanottiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s exotic skin slipons, creates a complete outfit. Elevate your look for evening by turning to shift dresses and simple heels.

BADGLEY MISCHKA

so that the focus falls on the cut and finish. Haider

4 1

Oil Slick Inky blacks and navy blues add a stylish twist to seasonal dressing, so step away from stereotypes and embrace a darker colour palette for the warmer jacket adds drama to balmy European nights whilst Ola Swimwear is perfect for jumping headfirst into the trend. Reinvent deep hues for summer.

DAVID KOMA

months ahead. Dries Van Notenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s embroidered

Marrakech Express Summer is the season to kick back and relax, and the longer, warmer nights. Channel a laid back look with burnt oranges and mixed prints in relaxed silhouettes or Stella McCartneyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s denim playsuit which shows off a peep of skin to combat the rising temperatures.

ALBERTA FERRETTI

Seventies trend provides the perfect wardrobe for the

5 6

Model as Muse

B e h i nd th e Scene s

She entered the world of Christian Dior as a petite aspiring model named Jeanne and emerged as Victoire, the star of Dior’s cabine and a runway model in Dior’s autumn/winter 1953 Haute Couture show in Japan. As the house came full circle last year, returning to Tokyo to present its pre-fall 2015 collection, we explore the unique relationship between the designer and his muse. By Natalie Trevis

Porto Rico dress, from the autumn/winter 1954 Haute Couture collection.

Victoire Doutreleau changed the face of modelling in the 1950s. Arriving at Christian Dior’s atelier in 1953, aged 18 and with a note of recommendation from artist Touchagues tucked in her pocket (which she didn’t need to show), the 5’ 3” beauty captured Dior’s imagination with her irreverent and unpolished air. The designer took her on as a house model immediately and, in a patriarchal move typical of the time, bestowed on the young art student a new name: Victoire. A conquering moniker that he intended to bring her glory. ‘But in spite of her dissimilarity to the other girls, I decided to engage her,’ said Christian Dior in his book Dior by Dior. ‘She had a sort of Saint-Germaindes-Prés look which I liked. I promised to make one or two dresses for her, and then, as fittings wore on, I realised that she was becoming one of my star mannequins.’ As the Left Bank style took off, Victoire embodied the ‘new Parisienne’, her small waist, curves and attitude setting her apart from the rest of the model pack, much to the envy of the other girls. Where Cristóbal Balenciaga preferred androgynous models whose beauty did not detract from the clothes, Christian Dior admired personality. ‘My mannequins give life to my dresses,’ he enthused. Modelling for a couturier was an elevated position that many coveted. ‘A model who belonged to a couture house, and especially to Dior, was someone who was spoilt, idolised, pampered, who could indulge in lots of things,’ said Victoire, now 80, in an interview for the house last year. But Victoire was not well received by the fashion press and clientele at 30 avenue Montaigne initially, her sex appeal and perceived impertinence offending the couture sensibilities of the time. Dior remained unflappable in his support for the model, admiring her natural feel for the clothes, and it wasn’t long before the outside world began to fall for her magnetic charms too. As a fashion pioneer it was inevitable that Christian Dior would present his designs overseas and in November 1953 the designer and his models, including a star struck Victoire, ventured to Tokyo, Kyoto, Nagoya and Osaka to show the autumn/winter 1953 Haute Couture collection. Dior himself had long been inspired by Japanese culture. Obsessed with Japanese screens as a child, particularly bird motifs, he later sought to entwine the history of the brand with the land of the rising sun. In the early Fifties, Dior designed a series of

Close-up of Victoire in 1954.

All images courtesy of Dior. Dior Esprit Tokyo, pre-Fall 2015 collection, photography by Thomas Lohr. Christian Dior with Victoire in the Zaïre dress, photography by Mark Shaw.

Dior Esprit Tokyo, pre-Fall 2015 collection.

Dior’s models present the autumn/winter 1953 Haute Couture collection at Bunka Fashion College in Tokyo (Victoire second from right).

Victoire presents a design in front of Ingrid Bergman, 1957.

Christian Dior with Victoire in the Zaïre dress, from the autumn/winter 1954 Haute Couture collection.

Victoire presents a design in front of Ingrid Bergman, 1957.

Dior’s models in kimonos presenting the autumn/winter 1953 Haute Couture collection at Bunka Fashion College in Tokyo (Victoire second from left).

All images courtesy of Dior. Victoire in the Curaçao dress, from the autumn/winter Haute Couture 1954 collection, photography by Henry Clarke. Christian Dior shares a moment with Victoire after the autumn/winter 1954 Haute Couture collection, photography by Mark Shaw.

Victoire in the Curaçao dress, from the autumn/winter 1954 Haute Couture collection.

Victoire epitomises the New Look outside the Dior boutique on Avenue Montaigne in Paris.

looks in fabrics from Kyoto’s famous Tatsumura workshop and regularly gave his designs Japanese names. As soon as the house formed a licensing department in 1953, Japanese department store Daimaru immediately applied and the Daimaru Dior Salon opened later the same year. In 1955, members of the Japanese Imperial family, in Paris on official business, paid a ceremonial visit to the house of Dior. With links between Japan and the Parisian couture house continuing to strengthen, it seemed a natural merging of east and west when Dior was commissioned to design three dresses for the civil portion of Empress Michiko’s wedding ceremony in 1959. ‘As soon as I arrived at Dior, my first trip was to Japan,’ says Victoire. ‘I think that he wanted to show the dresses from the collection that he considered to be the most likely to please Japanese fashion. In Japan no couturier had presented a collection until this first collection by Christian Dior.’ As Victoire triumphed on the runway and posed dutifully with the other Dior models around Japan in a series of kimonos, couture gowns and elegant travel outfits, Christian Dior was quietly cementing his place as the most global of the couture designers. The house of Dior has reinterpreted and reimagined the sartorial codes of the country on many occasions since. Not just being physically present in Japan as per Raf Simons’ most recent outing at Esprit Dior Tokyo but also in the subtle detailing of the spiky shibori textures in his AW13 Haute Couture collection and in the lavishness of Galliano’s 2007 Haute Couture extravaganza. Simons certainly has a natural synergy with the fast-paced city of Tokyo, it being the origin of the commercial success of his namesake menswear line. He often talks of visiting his first clients in Japan twenty years ago, where he would find inspiration in everything from the liberated fashion to the urban architecture. The Esprit Dior Tokyo collection doesn’t contain any overt references to traditional Japanese clothing (no kimonos or obi belts here) but its notes of realism certainly pay homage to the bustling metropolis of modern day Tokyo. Sequined turtleneck layers, clean lines and flat boots play to a twenty first century Dior woman, the falling ‘snow’ in the cavernous Ryõgoku Kokugikan, one of the country’s Sumo wrestling arenas, suggesting that these are clothes ready for the street. Japan makes as much sense for Dior today as it did when the house first presented its intricately worked gowns and revolutionary silhouettes to the nation in 1953. It is hailed as a country that understands and embraces luxury. If the US spends on ready-to-wear and China is a strong market for accessories, it is the Japanese fashion aficionados who are willing to invest in innovative couture-level luxury, which is exactly what Simons’ served up for pre-fall. The ‘mindset and attitude’ of Tokyo that inspired Simons is evident in each sharp silhouetted and infinitely wearable look. Yet hints of the work of the ever-present Mr. Dior can still be found. It might have been 1947 in which Dior shocked the world with his New Look Christian Dior shares a moment with Victoire after the autumn/ winter 1954 Haute Couture collection. Photo Mark Shaw.

(they would be shocked again when couture hemlines rose to 40cm above the heel, influenced perhaps by Victoire’s petite proportions) yet Simon’s models traversed the arena as if it were a futuristic Shibuya crossing with exaggerated hips and nipped-in waists that riffed on the Bar jackets that Dior championed so long ago. Attending the Esprit Dior Tokyo last year was a homecoming of sorts for Victoire, revisiting the city that in many ways launched her career. A career which saw her work faithfully with the house of Dior until a year after the death of the legendary designer in 1957, by which time she was becoming the ‘marvelous muse’ of another prodigious designer: Yves Saint Laurent. Yet part of Victoire’s history will always be intertwined with that of Christian Dior, the man who took a chance on her, a chance that he never had cause to regret. ‘Victoire became a star – and justified the triumphant christian name which I had given her,’ he wrote. Victoire sees Simons as continuing the legacy of the great designer. ‘He has brought a modern touch to Dior without losing the Dior spirit, which is femininity even with this modernity.’

Kaftan Calling The kaftan: timeless and feminine, it transcends cultures and takes its place in every wardrobe as a warm weather essential.

Images courtesy of Gorunway, Endemage, Noon by Noor and The Kayys.

S t yl e N ote

Some things are forever etched in memories of summer. The smell of your favourite sun lotion, the sound of waves lapping against the shore and the feeling of sinking into a state of much-needed relaxation. The fashion staple needed to complete the picture is the perfect summer kaftan, loosely draped and as comfortable as a second skin. A perennial wardrobe favourite, when you reach for a kaftan you know that a summer holiday has truly begun. Diana Vreeland insisted that kaftans were ‘fashion for the beautiful people’. In the Sixties the fashion world fully embraced the vibrancy and print of the kaftan, which embodied the colour and essence of a newfound liberation. Of course the history of the flowing garment

inevitably entwined with jet set travel to exotic locations such as Morocco in the spirit of the summer of love. Talitha Getty, the ‘beautiful and damned’ muse of Yves Saint Laurent, epitomises the heady mix

Biagiotti, SS15

Mesopotamia in 600 B.C., and yet its diaphanous allure became

Endemage, SS15

dates back much further than that, to the dress codes of ancient

of exoticism and bohemia of the kaftan on a rooftop in Marrakesh in the famous Patrick Lichfield image in 1969, while Catherine Deneuve, supermodel of the time Marisa Berenson and later, Bianca Jagger all embraced the look. Like Yves Saint Laurent, designer Thea Porter fell in love with the kaftan in the Sixties and beyond - her work was commemorated this year in an exhibition at London’s Fashion and Textile Museum, Thea Porter: 70s Bohemian Chic. The daughter of Arabist and theologian Morris Seale, she was raised in Damascus and absorbed the nuances of the fabrics, decorations and silhouettes of traditional dress. Later moving to London, she became a fashion-set guru on eastern style and began reproducing her collection of antique kaftans (very nearly destined to be cut up for cushion covers) in modern fabrics, to the delight of devout clients such as Elizabeth Taylor, Faye Dunaway and Joan Collins. By the time Taylor married Richard Burton for the second time in 1975 in a flowing ombré emerald robe by Gina Fratini, the kaftan had already become synonymous with Hollywood glamour and rock royalty. Less formal than a maxi dress and with the unique quality of being able to reveal and conceal at the same time, the kaftan fits neatly today with the new wave of bohemia seen throughout the spring/ summer collections and which is often revived, phoenix-like, in times of economic instability. Whether sheer and short, paired with ankle boots beach on the likes of Rachel Zoe, it’s difficult to break the association between the easy breezy garment and a sense of escapism. Emilio Pucci, Missoni and Fendi consistently include kaftans in their spring/summer and resort collections, knowing that it is a silhouette

The Kayys, SS15

and a cross-body bag at a festival or sweeping down a St. Barths

that universally flatters, while the likes of Mara Hoffman, Heidi Klein and Talitha embody a surf-ready contemporary style aimed at eternal sun-seekers. Italian designer Laura Biagiotti has certainly perfected the art of the covetable kaftan. Known as the Queen of Cashmere and also, it seems, sophisticated kaftans, the beauty and attention to detail of her designs reveals them to be far more than simple beach cover-ups. Paired with delectable jewels and heels, it’s possible to create a timeless eveningwear look reminiscent of a decadent Studio 54. From the festival luxe of the Valentino SS15 runway to the nocturnal embellishment of Naeem Khan’s designs, designers now see kaftans

2014 Met Gala) to Coachella (Alexa Chung in Chloé) - there is nowhere Andrea Degreas, SS15

a kaftan can’t take you. The word versatile is overused in fashion, but match the right kaftan with the right summer hotspot and it is the only piece that has the power to take you seamlessly from beach to banquet.

Naeem Khan, SS15

every occasion from the red carpet (Ashley Olsen in vintage Dior at the

Noon by Noor, SS15

as fully formed outfits in their own right. Recently, kaftans have graced

m o del s ec r ets

A normal day for me will start with a fresh juice or smoothie, granola yoghurt and berries, a salad for lunch and fish or meat with vegetables for dinner.

I exfoliate once a week and moisturise my whole body twice a day. Drinking a lot of water is also very important to keep your skin smooth and hydrated.

Angel of the Sun A Bikini A Day and Monday Swimwear co-founder Natasha Oakley has made a living out of globetrotting to exotic locations for photoshoots. As her job entails chasing the summer sun, Oakley is an expert at surviving the warmer months. ABAD is a lifestyle saviour for women who want to look and feel great on the beach – ‘We knew that we had to make something more of our love for swimwear and everything beach related’ Oakley tells us, ‘and after a few years of wearing bikinis daily we realised we had become experts in the perfect swimwear fit. We created Monday Swimwear purely out of the need for the perfect bikini that is both flattering and comfortable.’ Read on as we find out the insider’s tips for a stylish summer.

Working on the beach so often can make things difficult when protecting skin so we’ll always wear sunscreen on our face and bodies and lay in shade whenever we are not shooting.

I will work out minimum four times a week. My routine changes depending on where I am in the world; in Sydney I run my favourite coastal path from Bronte to Bondi, in LA I love to hike, in Bali I do yoga and in Paris I usually end up in a gym.

A healthy lifestyle to me is all about balance, you can have your cake and eat it too, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s just a matter of proportion. I also think keeping a positive mind and outlook on life is extremely important in order to maintain a healthy lifestyle.

I think travel is the most valuable thing and inspires every part of my life: my style, my creativity, my designs for Monday swimwear and even personally from meeting so many wonderful people all over the world. I have mastered the art of travel at this stage. I stay awake and go to sleep in my destination around 9pm/normal bedtime. The next day I wake up and have adjusted to the new time zone. I also make sure to hydrate a lot on planes and moisturise before and after flights.

I love a natural and laidback hairstyle. I will wash my hair and keep it up in a bun for an hour or so and then let it down and spray some beach spray or dry shampoo to create some volume. For a natural beauty look I start with a tinted SPF moisturiser then add a slight bronzer on my cheeks for contouring. I use mascara on just my outer eyelashes, not on all of them, and a tinted lip balm.

Fortune Favours The Brave Photographed by JULIO GAMBOA Styled by SOFIA ODERO

Shirt and trousers, DSQUARED2 | Shoes, GUCCI

Dress and fur, GUCCI

Sequin gingham shirt, ASHISH | Swimsuit bottoms, MICHAEL KORS

MacramĂŠ lace dress and pendant with chain, DOLCE & GABBANA | Rings, OSOME JEWELS

Macramé knitted dress, CÉLINE | Necklaces, BEN-AMUN | Bag, LOUIS VUITTON

Swimsuit, FLAGPOLE | Sequin gingham joggers, ASHISH | Rings, OSOME JEWELS | Bags, Louis Vuitton

Jacket, ASHISH | Dress, ALEXANDER WANG

Model: Constanza Saravia at Next Model Management Hair stylist: Jerome Cultrera Makeup artist: Mark Edio Production manager: Amy Jackson Stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s assistant: Sarah Gentillon Production: Louis Agency Special thanks to Illias Xios for his 1967 Oldsmobile

Photographed by MARCO CELLA Styled by EMILY LEE

Dress, VERSACE

Swimsuit, LA PERLA | Sunglasses, PRADA

Swimsuit, LA PERLA

Dress, LA PERLA

Jacket and trousers, EMPORIO ARMANI | Sunglasses, DOLCE & GABBANA

Dress and belt, EMPORIO ARMANI

Dress, LA PERLA

Model: Justyna Stolarczyk at Women Management Hair stylist: Marco Minunno Makeup artist: Laura Stucchi Production: Louis Agency

The Beauty

Of Style Photographed by JULIO GAMBOA Styled by CHRISTINE DE LASSUS

Him: Merinos wool coat, CHANEL Her: Navy wool cloth and cotton jacket and black tights, CHANEL

Ecru wool tweed jacket, black and ecru wool pullover, ecru wool tweed skirt and black tights, CHANEL

Burgundy and copper double face lamnbskin coat, navy denim shorts and Sue cal and pat tum kangaroo high boots, CHANEL

Merinos wool coat, cashmere pullover and denim jeans, CHANEL

Red wool cloth pants, burgundy hot stamping calfskin leather belt and glass pearl necklace, CHANEL

Alpaca tweed coat, wool pullover and stretch suede lambskin pants, CHANEL

Calfskin jacket, cashmere pullover and stretch denim jeans, CHANEL

Ecru glitter cashmere tweed dress, CHANEL

Black muslin dress, The Boy embroidered bag, CHANEL

Wool and cashmere cardigan and wool pullover, CHANEL

Models: Emily Senko at IMG Models and Leo Eller at Soul Artist Management Hair stylist: Jerome Cultrera Makeup artist: Misha Shahzada Manicurist: Michelle Matthews Digital Technician: Pablo Serrano Production manager: Amy Jackson Production: Louis Agency

110

D e sig n er A r c hive

Footsteps of

Ferragamo From ready-to-wear to leather goods, Salvatore Ferragamo is a brand rich in both heritage and design and speaks perfectly to the modern woman. We meet James Ferragamo, grandson of the original Salvatore and head of leather goods, who tells us about growing up in the family and moving forward with Ferragamo.

James Ferragamo

You’ve always been very close to the family

very careful to continually renovate it throughout the

business and now head up the leather goods

seasons by offering it in different skins and extra

department. Take us through your journey into

add-ons. This season for example, we have a version

the brand.

that is a mix of wool and python.

Well it has always been a passion and I’ve worked with them from a very young age. At nine I was

What do you think marks creativity and design

helping in logistics, putting shoes into boxes and so

at Ferragamo?

on. When I turned 13 I moved to the production

We try to create products that have a certain

line, which is where I learnt how to make the

longevity to them, a timeless element. It’s always

shoes, I always wanted to have the ability to

fashionable but never a fad. The craftsmanship

work with the product.

makes it sturdy enough to carry from year to year. And there’s always a story behind the things that we

You created the Sofia, one of today’s ‘it’ bags.

create, that’s why myself and Massimiliano Giornetti,

Tell us about it.

our creative director, work together on every product

I created it in 2008 but it’s a shape - with a flap and

to make it both stylish and rich in its history.

a single handle - that has been presented in one way or another in our collections since the 80s. I wanted

You mentioned Massimiliano, how does the

to take the idea of a less stuffy bag and really make it

relationship between him as the creative director

modern by lining it completely in leather and offering

and you as head of leather goods work?

functionality with differing compartments. I’m also

At the beginning of each season, we get his input in

Behind the scenes at the spring/summer 15 show in Milan.

Singer Madonna wearing the Evita shoe.

terms of his main colour cards and the themes he’s

which moves from generation to generation. Italy’s

working on developing. We then meet a few times

not extremely famous for its organisational skills but

throughout the development of the collections to

it is for its spontaneity, passion and problem solving!

ensure that we’re both in harmony and respecting each other’s aesthetics.

Hollywood was always very important to your Grandfather and he built a great relationship with

Going back to the start, tell us about growing

it. Are things the same in your era?

up in the Ferragamo family?

Yes absolutely, that is something that is always

Well we’re a very big family, 26 cousins at this point

very important and we collaborate continuously; we

I think! We’d always meet at our Grandmother’s

have a division that does just that. Our shoes are

house for celebrations like Christmas, everyone from

always at the Oscars and we create special things for

the family would attend so there’d be loads of us.

particular people. I find this especially interesting as

Even now we still make sure to meet there at least

it gives me the chance to develop something that’s

once a year. Not all of us are still able to live in Italy

unique and also helps me understand the tastes and

but everything is still very much about the family.

requests of particular personalities and celebrities.

What does Italy mean to you and the family?

Did you always know that you’d work for

It was chosen by my grandfather. He went back to it

the house?

in 1927 and headed to Florence, probably because

Well it’s quite incredible that we often study

of its deep history in artisanship, it’s a concept,

something that you don’t finally go and do. I began in

112

Joan Crawford in the Hollywood Boot Shop with Salvatore Ferragamo, 1926.

finance and then went to work for Saks to gain retail

and the eldest of six children and having worked

experience and then before I moved to Ferragamo I

for her father for two years, moved into the brand.

was in banking. My father was actually very clever in

She was responsible for women’s leather goods

organising some family rules that limits the number

but was an amazing ambassador for the brand,

of us working in the house at any one time to three

she knew everybody and was even friends with

– this ensures that everyone is right for their role.

the English royal family. Fiamma was an excellent

I had worked for Ferragamo during my summers

communicator and was amazing at motivating - it

so I was always very clear that it’s where I wanted

was a fine art. She was such an incredible risk-taker

to end up, but getting in is not easy!

and so independent. It was the Fifties and Sixties and she was travelling the world alone to present

Even if you’re family?

the brand to everyone.

No, especially if you’re family! I had to gain a certain education and then go through interviews and

How did she influence the Fiamma bag?

tests with special professors to ensure I had the

Well, she really liked the idea of a handbag that

right work ethics and would serve the brand well.

could be worn over her wrists as opposed to exclusively across the shoulder all the time. She

Your aunt Fiamma used to head the brand and

also loved front locks, so we created this bag

was an incredibly influential woman, how do

with Massimiliano taking inspiration from these

you think of her?

elements. This season we’ve made two exclusively

When my grandfather passed away, she was 17

for the Middle East.

The Ferragamo family.

Sophia Loren in the Ferragamo Atelier.

Salvatore Ferragamo Ramadan scarf.

You’re here today to launch the Silk collection and the special Fiamma bags. What do you think your Middle Eastern clients look for from you? We’re very careful with our hardware and ornamental detailing in this market, for example, special locks and gold and silver finishing. Exotics work really well here so we always make sure there’s something to offer. Our CEO Michele Norsa ensures we develop these each season and at the moment we’re focusing on crocodile versions of some of our most recognisable styles. You head both the women’s and men’s designs, do you see crossovers in what both genders want today? Absolutely, there is a lot of crossover in moccasins, drivers and sneakers. So we’re trying to develop more typologies that will really go across. We’re making a driver and making notes on the women’s version of it but you still have to fine tune it in a way that is feminine enough. How have you seen the way women shop change in your time at the house? Women are so well informed today, and they like to experience the brand and not just the point of sale. With us they understand that they’re not just buying a piece but it’s a certain history and way of doing things.

114

B e h i nd T h e Scene s

Shoes

by Numbers Designer Anas Younis is the man behind Aennis Eunis, a line of intricately detailed shoes that is captivating the region. We explore his SS15 collection by numbers.

Anas Younis’ background in architecture and industrial design makes complete sense. His sculptural shoes with their calligraphic references are a testament to his natural spatial creativity. ‘I find shoes fascinating due to their complexity and three dimensional nature - as if working on a sculptural piece that involves screws, structures and complex processes,’ the Jordanian designer tells us. ‘I am in my element when working with shoes.’ Swiftly building a loyal clientele fascinated with the Aennis Eunis signature combination of bold colour, architectural heels and hidden meaning, his spring/summer 2015 collection is a riot of vibrant tones and clever detailing. ‘My general inspiration stems from Henna or tattoo-like filigree. Incorporating calligraphy or other Arabic ‘tools’ has become a vehicle I use to reach that feminine effect. Of course heels, platforms and structures become a seasonal exercise that I enjoy diving into as if sculpting a new piece each time,’ he says. The delight of receiving samples from the factory for each new collection never wears off for Anas and he continues to push boundaries by experimenting with elite materials (his base in the leather goods capital of the world, Italy, ensures that much) and innovative design, driven all the while by the inspiration of his heritage. ‘I have a deep love and appreciation of my Arabian heritage and culture so naturally, I express this fervour through my designs. As I like to say, the ‘flavour’ is evident in my work through the use of calligraphy, textures, colours and rich details’.

6 years designing shoes An average of 30 styles each season 3 classic colours (black, gold and white), 3 vibrant colours (Tangerine, Hot Fuchsia Pink and Deep Ocean Blue) and plenty of neutrals 5 to 6 signature designs are carried over each season 3 to 4 types of leathers, including exotic skins for SS15 4 staff in the design office, 2 in the technical office and 25 in the factory 130mm â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the highest heel height (with an internal platform) 10mm â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the lowest heel height (for sneakers and flats) 70 components in each shoe Once all components are sourced, 1/2 a day to assemble them, leaving enough time for glue to dry and leathers to settle in

116

M o st D es i r ed

Dolce & Gabbana Maiolica Italy is known for its long history of exquisite craftsmanship, from fashion to art. Stefano Gabbana and Domenico Dolce combined both when drawing from their Italian heritage to create their pre-fall accessories collection. Taking inspiration from the traditional Mediterranean technique maiolica, or majolica â&#x20AC;&#x201C; where decorative ceramics are hand painted in bright colours, often depicting historical scenes and figures. Stefano and Domenico modernised the maiolica with cobalt blue, the shade of the Sicilian sea. Their iconic Sicily and Dolce bags were made over for todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s woman in brushstrokes of blue and white to create the illusion of tiles embellishing the eye catching arm candy. Shoes fared the same treatment and some - the espadrilles and sandals received the Dolce & Gabbana magic with bejewelled embellishment added for a more glamorous take on a traditional trend. The collection lets our imagination run wild with the image of Southern Italy and the Mediterranean during high summer: beautiful Sicilian tiling and fresh white walls complementing the backdrop of a glittering ocean. Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re ready for a sartorial summer holiday.

diamond in it.

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Pieces of Me

Alia as a child with her father.

Being part of a family steeped in jewellery designing history, it was a given that Alia Mouzannar would tread the same path. Initially studying architecture, Alia now (with her cousin Dori) heads up the family’s jewellery house: House of Walid and Aziz Mouzannar. The Lebanese designer shares with us her sentimental personal pieces that have influenced her life and work.

Alia Mouzannar

This very old Austrian necklace (18th century) was a gift from my grandfather to my grandmother. It’s like a soft ribbon made from gold with rose cut diamonds and rubies set in the old style; it’s beautiful. You don’t see this kind of artisanal work much any more because it takes so long and requires such a high level of craftsmanship. I appreciate old jewellery that is designed and made by hand because we are now in an age of mass-production. For me, that’s not the right spirit required for creating jewellery. I like the emotional value that you put into a piece while creating it and the history as it is passed down through the generations, like my grandmother’s necklace.

Throughout my life I’ve collected and been given little charms: from birth, my first birthday, my baptism, my childhood, good luck charms, religious charms – all sorts. These little charms have no meaning when they’re alone so my father and I put them all on one big necklace; when I wear it it’s like I’m carrying around the history of my life. Every piece has a meaning and meanings are what make jewellery special. I like the mix and match sense; it’s a very unique piece and it makes me smile every time I wear it. My favourite charm is the little 21-carat gold cross with turquoise stones that my father designed for me at my first communion – it’s inspired by old Beirut style jewellery, so it reminds me of my childhood and my origins. I will of course carry on adding to the necklace as I make more memories.’

After I received this ring from my mother-in-law, I really didn’t want to change or touch it as it meant so much to her. But I was also not able to wear it as it was a little too classical for me. After keeping it for about 8 years in my safe, the idea of the Cache box was born. Now every woman can have her own Cache box and wear her ring in a modern way.

118

wat c h f o c u s

See You At The Finish Line With fitness becoming ever higher on every womanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s list of priorities, our watches have to work harder to keep up with our demands of both function and style. From the seashore to the studio, we want watches that will see us through the toughest of workouts and still be boardroom ready.

Delicate and feminine, Franck Mullerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ladylike watch perfectly compliments a prima ballerina with soft shades, diamonds and mother-of-pearl. Raise the barre without a tutu in sight.

Long Island watch with mother-of-pearl set on pink gold with an alligator leather strap, FRANCK MULLER | Pointe shoes, REPETTO

Chanel’s J12 mimics the delicate but sturdy nature of sports. Appearing effortless whilst working hard, ensure you can keep up to speed when you take to the court.

J12-365 watch with diamonds set on white high-tech ceramic and 18k Beige Gold, CHANEL WATCHES

Dior’s VIII Grand Bal Plissé Soleil is a balancing act of beauty that sees mother-of-pearl delicately mimic your own movement as it swings around the face with every twist and turn.

Dior VIII Grand Bal Plissé Soleil watch with diamonds and mother-of-pearl set on steel, DIOR TIMEPIECES

120 Let Franck Muller’s colourful creation bring an advantage on the court with its striking watch face. Don’t let appearances fool you - this watch packs a punch when the game heats up.

Color Dreams watch set on 18kt white gold with an orange alligator strap, FRANCK MULLER

Subtle and sporty, Bulgari’s watch keeps the focus on your fitness with a rubber strap that can withstand even the most rigorous of exercise regimes, whether on land, in the sea or the sky.

Diagono Magnesium watch set on ceramic and magnesium with a rubber strap, BVLGARI | Exercise ball and hand weights courtesy of Physique57

Elevate your timekeeping to an out-of-this world experience as you look down on the planets in the sky. Follow in Atlasâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; footsteps as you lift the weight of the world.

Midnight PlanĂŠtarium Poetic Complications watch with aventurine, serpentine, chloromelanite, turquoise, red jasper, blue agate and sugilite set on pink gold with a black alligator strap, VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

122

A cc es s o ry affair s

Hippie Shake With the return of the Seventies on the runways, it was only a matter of time before your jewellery box followed suit. Robert Wanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s long string of pearls add a luxe bohemian feel whilst Daniela Villegasâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Drew earrings are perfect for a laidback festival vibe.

124

M o j eh H ealth

Poolside, photographed by Riccardo Vimercati, MOJEH Issue 18.

Biolite Clinic in Dubai. Many celebrities such as Jennifer Anniston and Sienna Miller have attributed the benefits of (pure) coconut water to their glowing

From dehydrated skin to weakened hair, living in a dry desert can leave our bodies feeling parched from head to toe. As the summer heat of Dubai looms, we investigate the daily effects of a life with (or without) water.

and youthful complexions. Being touted as better for you than normal water, it’s seen its popularity soar in recent years. But living in the Middle East (where water is naturally scarce) access to drinking water isn’t easy. It has been claimed that Dubai is home to the most expensive drinking water in the world. The water

By Susan Devaney

in the region is put through a desalination process to allow it to be drinkable for its residents. Desalination removes dissolved salts from water. Within months of arriving on Dubai’s sandy shores, expats complain

As a child I’d lay immersed in bubble-laden water

of troubling brittle hair and dry skin – pointing the

for hours. I’d eventually emerge in awe of my prune-

finger at the region’s water. ‘This water is actually

like wrinkled hands. Why were my hands distinctly

not good for your skin. It is alkaline at pH8 and it

wrinkled when I’d been surrounded by water?

has a high salt content (the pH of your skin is 5.5).

But that’s the thing about water: it’s a puzzling

The best thing to do would be: after you’ve applied

powerhouse. The power of water has always been

water to your face in the morning and evening,

laid bare before us, but with its accessibility so readily

always finish your routine with a spray of cellular

available, we easily forget the weight it really holds

water. So the water left on your skin is actually

for our bodies. For a start, without it we’d be gone.

good for it’, advises Benoit. Eau Cellulaire Spray by

‘…Water is the main component of our body and

Institut Esthederm is noted for replicating the water

the main component of our skin. There is a link

found on your skin. It’s balanced in its mineral salts

between the level of water in your body and the

and trace elements. Similarly, Bioderma’s Sensibio

use of your body. A newborn baby is composed

H2O (another French brand) contains micelles. They

of 90 percent of water and elderly people are 60

are attracted to dirt and oil (typically found on your

percent. The average content during our lifetime

skin at the end of the day) and they draw out the

is 70 percent. If you take a cosmetic product it’s

impurities without drying out your skin. In other

also 70 percent’, says Isabelle Benoit, Director of

words, they’re gentle cleansers and hydrators.

Scientific Innovation for Institut Esthederm in Paris.

Desalinated water also contains low levels of

Our bodies need to maintain its appropriate water

chlorine, which in turn, can oxidize hair and damage

level to function. How many times have you been

the hair’s proteins and cuticles. ‘Chlorine can cause

told to drink 8 glasses of water per day? More times

negative effects on both our hair and skin. It strips

than you care to remember. Many doctors advise

the natural protective oils from the skin and hair,

the drinking water throughout that day, keeping

causing excess drying and frizz. Dry hair can be

your intake steady as it’s more easily absorbed by

coarse, static and prone to tangles and breakage,’

your body this way – avoid drinking all 8 in one go.

says Dr. Fazeela Abbasi, a cosmetic dermatologist

What we put inside our bodies shows on the

at Dermacare in Dubai. Amazon Beauty’s Rahua

outside, and vice versa. Drinking water regularly

Omega 9 Hair Mask is a great counteractive to bring

on a daily basis has an abundance of benefits.

brittle hair back to life. Learning from the women of

‘Drinking enough water combats skin disorders like

the Quechua-Shuar tribes in the Amazon rainforest,

psoriasis, wrinkles and eczema. It also increases

they developed hair care products containing Rahua

the metabolic rate and improves digestive system

oil. With oil being one of the beauty buzzwords of the

to flush out toxins from the body. This in turn gives

moment, Moroccanoil’s Original Treatment is great

you healthy and glowing skin’, says Dr. Mona of

for putting a little bit of oomph back into your locks

126 Poolside, photographed by Riccardo Vimercati, MOJEH Issue 18.

cosmetic products on top of that, the product will force the penetration of all these impurities into your skin’, explains Benoit. With many people opting to

Bottled water would be better than tap water. It doesn’t bare any impurities, it’s not high in sodium chloride – but it’s not skin water.

drink bottled water instead of tap water, maybe the same should be adopted for our cleansing routine? ‘Bottled water would be better than tap water. It doesn’t bare any impurities, it’s not high in sodium chloride – but it’s not skin water. The best water for skin cells is cellular water’, concludes Benoit. Again, do as the French do and reach for micellar water – only use bottled water if it’s a last resort. Whether or not bottled water is in fact good for our skin is still a debatable issue. With some dermatologists citing it as being relatively okay

too. But chlorine can also play havoc with your skin:

and others opposing its use. With over 10 types of

‘It can cause blemishes and the development of

bottled water to pick from it’s vital to note where the

wrinkles. In order to prevent chlorine from damaging

water is sourced from, that the brand is regularly

your appearance, it would be a good idea to install

checked for contamination and the water is low

a whole house carbon water filter to remove

in sodium and fluoride. But - the golden rule is to

chlorine from your entire home. This home water

moisturise your skin as soon as it’s been in contact

filter will also effectively remove a wide range of

with water. ‘The star ingredient for this is hyaluronic

chemical and organic contaminants to deliver spa-

acid, which is a fairly large sized molecule (called

quality healthier water to every faucet in the home

‘large molecular weight’). The properties of these

for softer skin and smoother hair’, continues Dr.

molecules allow for it to stretch naturally on the

Fazeela Abbasi. We have thousands of hair follicles

surface of the skin, and has the ability to trap

on our scalp, so losing hair naturally occurs day-

1000 times its weight in water. The water is kept

to-day - on average we lose 20-50 strands of hair

at skin surface, ensuring long-term moisturisation’,

per day. ‘The rule is not to aggress it. If you aggress

says Benoit. Ingredients such as ceramides, urea

you begin to destabilise. Too high detergent or

and physiological lipids are essential for locking in

product with silicones will aggravate. Don’t wash

moisture. Hyaluronic acid is known for plumping

your hair every day’, says Benoit. Hair loss can

fine lines and wrinkles caused by dehydration,

be accountable for multiple reasons: Vitamin D

leaving you with a ‘baby face’ glow.

and B12 deficiency, low ferritin levels, humidity, air

As the summer heat of Dubai looms, the air

conditioning and dehydration. ‘The air conditioning

conditioning will increase, the sun’s rays will inevitably

is not good for your skin. Throughout the day your

get stronger, the humidity will rise and our bodies will

skin loses its moisture to adapt to the environment

consequentially become dryer. Not forgetting that

outside. It also loses trace elements, so you need

we’ll most certainly be flying between continents and

to replenish (on a regular basis) your skin with

climates. ‘Water is essential to maintain the optimum

water’, says Benoit.

skin moisture and deliver essential nutrients to the

Moisturising your skin both internally and externally

skin cells. It replenishes the skin tissue and increases

with water-based products is vital if you wish for

its elasticity. This helps delay the appearance of

healthy skin and hair once again. ‘You face a

signs of ageing like wrinkles and fine lines’, says

dilemma here because when you want to wash

Dr. Mona. Without enough water, skin begins to

your face you use water, but the water here is

inadequately perform functions such as exfoliation,

not pure and healthy for your skin. You’re left with

making collagen and self-repair. In time this will

the problem of the water left sitting on your skin

affect the appearance of your skin. The power of

(after washing) being full of impurities. If you apply

water shouldn’t be underestimated; it keeps us alive.

Up & Away 128

hair focus

Forget any preconceptions and associations with the ponytail of past. The playground look has elevated itself to the hairstyle of the summer.

Create soft, tumbling waves that go from sultry to sumptuous by simply sweeping back into a ponytail.

FENDI

DIOR Couture

JASON WU

Raf Simons sent models on an adventure down the catwalk with hair accessories inspired by the climberâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s carabiner.

For a more in-your-face way to dress up your ponytail, find inspiration from Fendi, who looked to leather as an accessory update.

HOLLY FULTON

DANNIJO

A subtle re-work of a classic hairstyle courtesy of Holly Fulton leaves a stylish mark as you walk away.

Add interesting details with a fishtail plait that extends down to reveal a notso-standard ponytail.

GUCCI

Healthy hair is essential when creating a casual beauty look. Hair tied loosely away ensures the focus is on the clothes.

130

M OJEH H ealth

’ Tis The

Season...

Keeping your diet in tune with the seasons has more benefits than you might imagine. We find out why seasonal eating is high on the agenda for summer. By Oliver Robinson.

The four seasons aren’t really an issue in this part of the world.

changes throughout the year,’ writes Viall. ‘Want watermelon in

Hot weather is followed by hotter weather. There may be an

winter? You can find it. However, it doesn’t mean that it will provide

occasional splash of rain, but nothing that can compare to the

the most nutrients. Depending on the season, certain foods will

changes in weather, ecology, wildlife and daylight hours enjoyed

contain higher levels of particular vitamins and minerals. Just like

(or endured) by many other regions across the world.

the natural world, our bodies change with the seasonal shifts,

Those of us living in the GCC can at least experience the seasons

making it important to follow nature’s menu in order to support

by way of what we eat.

these transitions.’

Thanks to the wonders of modern-day air travel, food can travel

According to Viall, springtime is a time for us to clear out the

farm to fork in a matter of hours, meaning that much of the food

excesses of a long winter. She recommends we choose leafy

we eat is as fresh – or nearly as fresh – as it would be if served

greens such as collards, chard and spinach, lean meats; fruits

in its country of origin.

such as cranberries, blueberries, grapefruit; and dried fruits.

But for some, eating food from abroad defeats the point of keeping

‘Parsley, basil and turmeric are wonderful detoxifying herbs to use

our diet in tune with the season.

during the spring,’ continues Viall. ‘During the hotter months, the

The American social critic Wendell Berry says that ‘eating is an

menu is all about keeping cool, light and energised. Enjoy fresh

agricultural act’. To really understand the true meaning of this,

seasonal fruits like melon, pineapple, cherries, strawberries, and

Berry recommends that more of us attempt to grow our own

peaches. Courgettes, bell peppers, broccoli, cucumbers, and

food – whether it’s a token gesture of tending to a tomato plant

asparagus are cooling vegetables to enjoy during the hot days.

on our balcony or growing cress on the windowsill. Failing this,

Think peppermint, fennel, and cilantro for seasonal herbs.’

he recommends we shop at farmers’ markets.

Indeed, seasonal eating is as much about balancing our inner and

At last count there were around 35,700 farms in the UAE – 28 of

outer environments as it is tucking into fresh, tasty fare.

which are certified as organic. Although organic farms are in the

‘The very foundation upon which our wellbeing resides,’ says

minority, farmers’ markets have become a regional trend in Dubai

BeUtiful’s Holland. ‘Our internal system does not operate

– a phenomenon that is empowering both consumer and grower.

separately from the environment that surrounds us. We are

‘More and more people are concerned about what they put in their

intrinsically connected to the universe and to Mother Nature.

mouths and how they feed their children,’ says Yael Mejia, brand

True harmony and wellbeing can only be experienced when we

consultant to Baker & Spice Dubai and founder of the Farmers’

harmonise our body with our surroundings, and seasonal eating

Market on the Terrace. ‘This is why our farmer’s market, which

is a powerful way to achieve this.’

we started six seasons ago, is one of the most important markets

But is this sentiment still relevant in somewhere as season-less

on the Dubai calendar. Being able to connect directly with the

as the GCC?

people who grow the food we eat is important.’

The answer is simple: yes.

Some holistic nutritionists take seasonal eating a step further

As the old adage goes: ‘Eating keeps body and soul together’.

– viewing it as an act of social consciousness to spiritual

Eating with the seasons is to be aware – aware of the food we

consciousness.

eat and why we eat it. This translates to mindful eating, which is

‘Eating seasonally is [to stay] in tune with nature and, indeed, in

an extension of mindfulness.

tune with your own nature,’ says Laura Holland, co-founder of

The foods we eat – wherever we are in the world – can affect our

BeUtiful Body. ‘Usually, foods have qualities that best support

spiritual sensibilities. Theologian Dr. Norris J. Chumley, author of

your health and wellbeing during a particular season.’

The Joy of Weight Loss: A Spiritual Guide to Easy Fitness states

Holland’s views are echoed by the words of American Holistic

that only by eating in a conscious, mindful manner do ‘we feel

Nutritionist Maria Viall, in the article Nature’s Menu Guide:

fully alive, energetic and peaceful.’

Advantages of Seasonal Eating.

Spiritually invigorating, socially empowering and downright

‘We tend to forget [seasonal eating] as our food supply rarely

delicious… do we need any more reasons to eat in season?

Juicy Jewels, photographed by Olivier Arnaud, MOJEH issue 8

132

M o j eh H ealth Karlie Kloss, MUGLER SS15

Summer

Secrets Hear Victoria’s Secret Angel and no doubt what comes to mind is a set of genetically blessed women who have made fit and toned figures their calling card. So with swimsuit season right around the corner we look to the workouts that keep the models runway ready - be prepared to get down to business and sweat.

Lily Aldridge

Who: Karlie Kloss, Alessandra Ambrosio, Shanina Shaik, Elsa Hosk Who For: The Fast-Paced Woman What: Spinning Why: Models turn to their bikes in order to blitz fat and create slender legs. Spinning is great for toning both your legs and abdominals as it builds muscle without creating a bulky appearance. The exercise is also perfect for sculpting your glutes and slenderising your bottom half. Some classes even incorporate upper body exercises using weights meaning you get a total body workout. The key to toning your body is remaining dedicated. Justin Gelband’s top tip is ‘if you like a particular sport or exercise, incorporate it. If you like to bike, try a spin class.’ Spinning is perfect for those that lose motivation as most classes incorporate a club atmosphere with music and lighting. Where: Dubai – FlyWheel | Sydney – YoutopiaSpin | Los Angeles – SoulCycle

Doutzen Kroes

Candice Swanepoel

Who: Candice Swanepoel, Alessandra Ambrosio, Doutzen Kroes, Karlie Kloss, Lily Aldridge, Erin Heatherton Who For: The Girly Girl What: Ballet Why: Ballet not only tones but also lengthens muscles, which is what gives that enviably lean look. Many of the Angels look to the barre in order to sculpt their arms and legs as well as strengthen their core. ‘Barre workouts are unique for body-sculpting workouts,’ Physique 57 trainer Haley Houck tells us, ‘they blend the most effective elements of cardio, strength training, and stretching. We move these elements through every muscle group so you leave feeling that no muscle was left behind. Think free weights to sculpt your upper body, thigh-sculpting sets to work in to a cardio zone, and plenty of ab work.’ Where: Dubai – Physique57 | New York – Ballet Beautiful | London – Barrecore

Behati Prinsloo, VICTORIA’S SECRET FASHION SHOW 2014

Adriana Lima

Who: Adriana Lima, Lindsay Ellingson, Shanina Shaik, Elsa Hosk, Doutzen Kroes, Candice Swanepoel Who For: The Tomboy What: Boxing Why: One boxing class can burn up to a thousand calories as it blitzes fat and builds muscle in order to sculpt your physique. Whether you do a technique class or a more physical combat workout, the use of both your own body weight and constantly moving around the ring will mean that it doesn’t feel like a workout whilst at the same time racking up serious calories burnt. ‘I never do the same exercise twice. It’s all about changing it up and keeping it interesting.’ Victoria’s Secret trainer Justin Gelband told us, for those that want to follow suit then the variety and intensity of boxing is the exercise for you. Where: Dubai - Body Combat at Talise Fitness | New York – Shadowbox

134 Alessandra Ambrosio

Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, BALMAIN SS15

Who: Alessandra Ambrosio, Karlie Kloss, Lily Aldridge, Linday Ellingson Who For: The Bohemian Spirit What: Yoga Why: For every ailment, there is a study to suggest that yoga is the answer. As well as the obvious effects of improving flexibility, posture and balance, yoga also helps to build muscle strength through using your own body weight. Yoga can also increase your blood flow and lower the levels of the stress hormone cortisol. This in turn boosts your immune system and helps you focus, whilst also lowering your blood sugar levels. One of the biggest affects of yoga is also the change it has on your state of mind; As Justin Gelband told us, ‘If you make a change today and commit to making yourself feel better you will reach your family, your loved ones, your colleagues in a more positive way. But it all starts with you.’ Where: Yoga can be done anywhere from your living room to your local studio.

Doutzen Kroes

Candice Swanepoel, GIVENCHY SS15

Who: Doutzen Kroes, Elsa Hosk Who For: The Jetsetter What: Skipping Why: There is a reason that boxers are renowned for turning to skipping to stay fit. The playground staple is a high intensity workout that leads to fat loss and improved cardiovascular fitness. It is also a full body workout, improving muscle tone in your legs as you jump, sculpting your shoulders and arms as you turn the rope and blitzing your abdominal muscles in order to stabilize your core - all the while increasing co-ordination between your upper and lower body. Skipping can also help ward off osteoporosis as it improves bone density. You can do a hundred million sit-ups but they only strengthen your back’ says Justin, ‘As far as your stomach is concerned, if you do cardio and you eat right you can have a flat stomach.’ For those that want to off-set the effect of plane-food then a skipping rope ensures you can exercise all over the world. Where: Anywhere! All that is required is a skipping rope, which makes it the perfect exercise for jet setters wanting to stay in shape.

MOJEH.COM SUBSCRIBE MOJEH MAGAZINE MONTHLY IN YOUR HANDS

136

Wo m en o f S ty le

Summer Style Getaway Shira Suveyke is the VP of Global Buying at The Outnet.com and is as stylish as she is business savvy. We sit down with the woman who knows what we want before we do, to discuss summer trips and which 2015 trends she plans to take on.

Shira Suveyke

What is your style inspiration? I am fortunate enough to spend several months of the year travelling to Europe and Asia finding the best product for our global customer and I draw so much inspiration from the cities and people I interact with. I love to collect vintage and one-of-a-kind pieces on my travels to mix in with my wardrobe. What has been your most memorable fashion moment? We collaborated with the late Oscar de la Renta on two exclusive collections and having the opportunity to meet with and work alongside such an incredible talent stands out as a great memory. Who has influenced your style most over the years? I am always influenced by the strong, empowered women in my life. My grandmother is my original style icon â&#x20AC;&#x201C; she truly embodied elegance and I inherited many of my favorite pieces from her extensive wardrobe.

A trip to Monterosso in Liguria, Italy, in July 2014

Shira’s stylish apartment in New York

How long did it take you to define your personal style? When it comes to personal style, I’ve certainly had my own point of view since an early age (barring some questionable outfit choices in the 1980s). I think true style means having a unique perspective; that said, as a fashion buyer, I must respond to a constantly evolving industry. As such, I am always receptive to new trends as they emerge and love to refresh my wardrobe with the best of what’s in style. What advice would you pass onto the next generation of women in the fashion industry? This is such a competitive industry that having passion is critical. Be curious, ask questions and seek out internships to figure out what your calling is. There are so many different ways one can work in fashion – it’s important to identify your strengths before you dive in headfirst. What’s your favorite secret spot in New York? New York City is constantly evolving, so if you were to ask me again in a month’s time I’m sure my answer would differ... At present I love to unwind by the fireplace at the Marlton Hotel. There’s a fabulous cocktail list and sumptuous décor – it is the perfect place to go after a long day in the office or at the shops. Where would you most like to be in the world right now and why? Anywhere in the tropics! It’s the beginning of spring in New York City but we’ve yet to put away our bulky coats as the colder weather seems as though it will last into April. Right now, I would love to be on a beach – in Cartagena or Tulum – with a book in hand. How does your style change during the summer months? In the winter my focus is on layering and warmth with emphasis on knits, coats, leather and boots. In the summer months, it’s about moving away from heavy layers – I tend to wear separates or a dress and sandals with a light jacket or blazer. Where are you travelling to this summer? Each summer I travel to Europe for market with the buying team and we hit the major fashion capitals – London, Milan and Paris. On the tail end of the trip I always make a point to tag on a special getaway. Last year I started in Portofino and traveled along the Italian Riviera, this year I’m headed to Capri and the Amalfi Coast. If you had to pick just five items of clothing for a summer getaway, what would they be? This summer we’ll be launching an exclusive capsule collection for high summer. It’s the perfect assortment of seasonal staples – some of my top picks are Ancient Greek Sandals; a Matthew Williamson kaftan, an Iris & Ink bateau top, Current/Elliott denim shorts and a Eugenia Kim straw hat. What will you be listening to on your summer travels? ‘Girl’ by Beck is always at the top of my summer playlist! It’s my go-to sunshine song. Who is your favorite travel companion and why? Any of my friends or family who are up for the perfect holiday balance of adventure and relaxation!

138

A rt is t in E x h i bit ion

The Eternal Vision As Nicolas Ghesquière’s Series 2 exhibition makes its fourth and final stop in Rome, we join Louis Vuitton in celebrating the unification of its past, present and future.

Rome, The Eternal City. No other destination could be quite as fitting for Louis Vuitton, a brand which shows no signs of slowing down and instead accelerates its standing as one of fashion’s most unwavering luxury houses. Through Series 2 - an exhibition created by Artistic Director Nicolas Ghesquière in order to show audiences the inspiration behind his third ready-to-wear collection - Louis Vuitton becomes more than just a brand and instead, a cultural institution that pioneers in novel thought and strives to envisage our future. In Series 2, Ghesquière embraces, reimagines and distorts the brand’s past and present by way of propelling it into the future, placing it in lands that are yet to exist. Through this, it is able to live on as the eternal brand. On entrance, we’re met with the LV logo, created in 1854 by the house’s founder and later patented by his grandson in 1908. The two letters centred within a circle are recognisable the world over and in their 160 years, have gone through periods of little to over usage. Ghesquière was immediately drawn to the logo, astounded by its perpetual ability to remain modern, and offered it new life through use in both his ready to wear and leather goods. Take for example the Twist clutch in which the LV robotically moves to open and close the bag, or autumn winter’s It boots, where the symbol is carved into the back of heels. In Series 2, the logo is showcased through multiple panels of red light continually moving towards us and then away again. As if pulsing through space, the installation shows how a century-old logo can travel through the years and project even further into the future. The next phase is Talking Faces, which re-lives the entrance scene from the SS15 runway. Male and female faces, bare, unspoilt and mechanical in their approach, fill the room from every angle and repeat Ghesquière’s words from his third show for the house. ‘A beginning is a very delicate time…Day zero

140

1. Recreation of backstage at the SS15 show | 2. Nicolas Ghesquière’s Accessories Gallery unites accessories from past and present | 3. Two artisans showcase the house’s craftsmanship in Savoir Faire | 4. Alessandra Mastronardi | 5. The Poster Room, three photographers interpretations of SS15 | 6. Candela Novembre | 7. Alessandra Airò

in the heart of the project, code-named GEHRY-014. The audience is asked to sit in a place that doesn’t exist for now. A ship surrounded by a gigantic woodland, a ship made up of three thousand and six hundred glass panels and fifteen thousand tons of steel, a ship that serves as an incubator and ignites our fellow creative minds. An undisclosed location at this time. Oh yes, I forgot to tell you, today, October 1st, the LV House wants to explore the ability to travel to any part of the universe without moving. The journey starts here, in this place soon named Foundation Louis Vuitton…’ He of course, refers to the newly developed Foundation in Paris, a haven for international artists which opens up dialogue and artistic freedom for existing and future talent. In the Magic Trunk room the house is represented by a trunk, the absolute symbol of its journey from past to present. Since 1854, nothing has embraced the ‘spirit of travel’ quite like this status symbol. Kings, Queens, Emperors and Empresses have taken their hearty trunks to the ends of the earth and back. Today the object, made in the special Asnières workshop, remains highly sought after, and Ghesquière reinterprets its original codes, namely in the way of his Petite Malle. Once opened, the Magic Trunk reveals the house’s history through a repository of design stories. Particular emphasis was placed on the ‘heroine’s chapter’, where icons past and present flashed on screen to the tunes of Kelis and Beyonce. Ghesquière of course, enjoys a creative and inspiring relationship with many muses from Jennifer Connolly and Michelle Williams to newest icon Alicia Vikander. On to the Infinite Show, a mirrored room with the SS15 show playing on loop.

Louis Vuitton’s Series 2 exhibition runs until June 7th at Palazzo Ruspoli, Via Del Corso, 418. Roma

Here you see the collection from 360 degrees, over and over. Infinite and eternal, the craftsmanship of the house lives on for as long as you require. Moving backstage, a recreation of the pre-show set-up whose intensity is displayed by French photographer Jean-Paul Goude’s powerful image of the line-up just before the first model hit the runway. Urgent but honest, Goude captures the pressure and emotion pre-show. ‘In my life, there is a ‘before’ and an ‘after’ Jean-Paul. It’s the whole aesthetic of my adolescence, imprinted in my genes: When I was a kid I used to draw over his illustrations; I must have sketched Grace Jones a million times. Today, becoming a part of his images - being one of his characters - is quite simply a dream come true. A gift,’ said Nicolas Ghesquière. A dream, and a full-circle moment: yet another example of the house’s eternal nature. ‘I have always loved creating accessories. For me, they are always connected to the collection, they hold an integral place in the creation of an ensemble, either juxtaposing or complementing the outfit. They take on the same intentions and have the same aim as the clothes. A silhouette is a complete look,’ says Ghesquière. In the following two rooms, Savoir-Faire and the Accessories Gallery, we are privy to this craftsmanship. ‘At Louis Vuitton, the length of time it takes to craft an object is never an issue: when it comes to true luxury, only time can reveal the whole story,’ says the exhibition notes. In the first space, two artisans craft the Petite Malle from scratch, while the second showcases the link between Ghesquière’s leather goods and the house’s historical pieces. As in each of his collections, he celebrates and reinterprets Louis Vuitton’s original codes from the use of Epi leather to the reimagining of the diamond quilting. On to the Poster Room and possibly the most visually challenging of them all. The work of three artists – Annie Leibovitz, Juergen Teller and Bruce Weber – are all placed together in a mosaic like fashion, ‘allowing the artists vocabularies to confront one another.’ Each image is their representation of the SS15 collection and showcases the globalised and unique nature of the brand. Continuing on to the ninth and final gallery where visitors are encouraged to take home stickers of this season’s prints – from the lipsticks and salt and pepper pots to eyelash curlers - ingeniously allowing them to construct their own customized story. Through a few emblematic stickers, Ghesquière’s SS15

collection opens itself up to new-fangled and unrestrained dialogue beyond the house, runways and boutiques. Genius.

142

A rt i n F o c u s

Our Future in Curation The Middle East at Venice: MENA pavilions and surrounding regions at Venice Biennale 2015 By Jareh Das

This year’s edition of the Venice Biennale chose as its theme,

effect on the present generation of artists from the region’.

‘All the World’s Futures’, which presented a rethinking of

One could read this cross-generational presentation with

the world we live in. A world fuelled with ongoing concerns,

works by Mohammed Kazem, ‘a leading figure in the current

from a diverse global perspective on conflict, war and labour

conceptual art movement (who was also the focus of the

(consumption and production). All the World’s Futures is

UAE pavilion’s exhibit in 2013) shown alongside a series by

curated by the renowned Nigerian-born curator, Okwui

Hassan Sharif, who is widely considered as the father of

Enwezor, whose influence and expertise is lauded. For this

conceptual art in the UAE and was an important mentor to

current biennale edition, one must commend his inclusive

Kazem’; as a non-linear canonical history of art, or perhaps

assembling of artists from varied nationalities and age

as an abandonment of the canonical Western art structures

groups. With this in mind whilst scouring the pavilions of the

altogether. Al-Qasimi however, stated that: With ‘1980 –

Middle East and North Africa (MENA) and collateral events,

Today’, it was not her intention to lay claim for a canonical

we were seeking out works that spoke differently about the

art history for the UAE or that these are the most significant

familiar and well trodden signs of the times – war, conflict

artists from the region, but rather, she ‘hopes to provide

and identity, whilst also considering the region’s relationship

some much needed context for the art scene that exists in

to its geographic neighbours.

the UAE today, and help viewers understand that the UAE

There are biennials in every major (and not so major) city

has long been an incubator for arts and culture, by bringing

across the globe, but none more full of excess than The

this lesser-known history to light as an opportunity to revise

Venice Biennale, the grandest and oldest of all the biennials.

and rethink some of the preconceived notions of the UAE’s

Private funding continues to support, whilst commercial

art scene – namely the idea that it only really started in 2005’.

galleries vie for centre stage in a sort of who’s-who of

Located above the UAE pavilion, Sarkis for Turkey, was

represented artists exhibited. Whilst some may feel the

one that was timely and appropriate, not just for his dual

biennial resembles the art fair model, in its selection and

Armenian-Turkish heritage, in light of 2015 being the

presentation of artists, there are discoveries to be made

centenary of the Armenian genocide. This conceptually

and hidden histories to be unearthed.

driven and stunning presentation incorporated documented

These concerns of private-public, or rather the further blurring of what this means in terms of biennials, persisted through encounters, not just with the MENA focus for this

Adel Abidin, Untitled, 2008, light-box installation, courtesy of the artist and Lawrie Shabibi gallery.

review, but also in encountering the biennale as a whole. These concerns are at the forefront whilst considering the commissioning, selection of artists and curatorial processes at play, entwined under the over-trodden and outdated nationalistic format Venice is known for. At the heart of this ‘uber-bienniale’ is the unavoidable display of excess. An excess that is evident in the scale of pavilions, Azerbaijan for example, made the loudest noise as it presented two megaexhibitions across mega-palazzos (not uncommon in Venice), including a further ‘mega-palazzo’ housing its collateral exhibition, ‘The Union of Water and Fire’, commissioned by the Baku-based, YARAT foundation. Housed in the industrial Arsenale buildings were the United Arab Emirates survey of Emirati art 1980 – Today: Exhibitions in the United Arab Emirates curated by Sharjah Art Foundation’s director, Sheikha Hoor Al-Qasimi. Sarkis’. Respiro was at the Pavilion of Turkey, curated by Witte de With director Defne Ayas and a boat ride away at the Sarkis, Respiro, 2015. Pavilion of Turkey, installation view. Image by Sarkis.

Armenian pavilion, a group show of its diaspora, curated by Adelina Cuberyan von Furstenberg. Al-Qasimi’s group exhibition took as its point of departure, the Emirates Fine Art Society, a non–profit association that was formed in 1980 in Sharjah and played a critical role in the development of arts and culture in the UAE and surrounding region. Through a presentation of a history through objects, Al-Qasimi sought to ‘look back at contemporary art practices in the UAE over the past four decades’, in order to ‘present a range of practices and styles in the history of the art scene she grew up with’. This led to a selection of fifteen Emirati artists with distinct backgrounds and approaches to creating artwork. The goal of the exhibition according to Al-Qasimi was ‘to demonstrate how this key moment in the 1980’s has had a lasting and profound

Sarkis, Respiro, 2015, Turkish pavilion installation view, image by André Morin.

144 ‘to display the wealth and complexity of Iranian art’. The pavilion failed to separate these two exhibitions distinctively in the curation of works. It felt like one large group show and post-opening, parts of the show were still being installed. However, Reza Aramesh’s 16mm film, Action 141: not what was meant - a single channel projection of still shots of men from different conflict zones, pointing rifles and scored to the sound of firing them - stood out as an effective, moving and powerful image piece. In his book, The Jews of Europe and the Inquisition of Venice: 1550-1620, Brian Pullan identifies the Jewish Ghetto of Venice, as one ‘that expanded its social and cultural structure that metamorphosed into a microcosm of different Jewish sub-cultures one of which, Levantine Jews who had been subjects of the Turkish empire and had converted to Judaism Salam Atta Sabri, Letters from Baghdad, 2012-2015, installation view Iraq pavilion, image by Mathias Depardon.

in the Muslim lands’. Taking the history of communities that have historically inhabited Venice’s Ghetto, artist Christoph Büchel, working in collaboration with the Muslim Communities of Venice and Iceland and curated by Nina Magnúsdóttir, presented The Mosque as Iceland’s pavilion project. The Mosque is ‘intended to engage with the Muslim residents of Venice, Venetian residents, tourists, including the thousands of Muslim travellers who visit Venice annually’. Located in the historic Jewish Ghetto, whilst the project has now garnered media attention for being the first functional mosque in Venice, it also mirrors events in Iceland, where its first mosque is currently being built. Leading up to the pavilion’s opening, media outlets reported on police concerns about safety in the areas around the pavilion. This hysteria and anxiety around Islam, predominately events of the last decade, is one that is typical of our time, but Büchel’s project is an important lens through which one is able to revisit a history of the core religious and cultural influences

Christodoulos Panayiotou, Ioustos Sigismoundos, 2015, street sign. Photo by Aurelien Mole.

on Venice. A history that draws on the multicultural mix of Muslims, Christians and Jews that have and continue to co-exist in the city. Outside the two main Biennale venues – Arsenale and

and found imagery, all of which the artist reconfigured to

Giardni, was by far one of the most refreshing and rigorous

take on the appearance of stained-glass windows, hung

pavilions of the Biennale, Christodoulos Panayiotou, Two

suspended in space, with two centrally placed floor to

Days After Forever. Panayiotou’s work was unfamiliar pre-

ceiling hand painted (by seven children) mirror pieces and

biennale, although it was curated by Omar Kholeif, who

two site-specific neon rainbows. The accompanying sonic

is steadily garnering a reputation internationally for his

soundscape, played over 24 hours and composed by Jacopo

rigorous curatorial research. Housed in Palazzo Malipero,

Baboni-Schilingi, is based on the artist’s rendering of the

Panayiotou’s subtle interventions were refreshing, in a

rainbow’s seven colours as a system of partitions.

biennale where the focus seems to be on bigger and better.

Iranian Highlights/The Great Game, located in Cannaregio,

A much needed contemplative space provided a reminder

north of the island, was a bumper showcase of what

on how to effectively question systems of knowledge (in this

seemed like every modern, contemporary Iranian and

instance, archaeology) - through the nature of materials and

neighbouring regional artists that has ever lived. The show

their symbolic meanings which change over time.

was over populated with works, and whilst the main display,

Dealing with ideas around the displacement of people,

with its partly, non-wall based display was aesthetically

Armenity/Hayoutioun on the Island of San Lazzaro degli

pleasing, there were the usual suspects, Tanavoli, Bilal,

Armeni, brought together artists of Armenian descent

Farmanfarmaian, Tirafkan etc. who are very talented artists in

who carry their origins with them across the globe. This

their own right, but are always under the same artist-curated

presentation of over a dozen artist’s works, explored ‘the

umbrella of Iranian art. The press release describes a show

notion of displacement and territory’ as seen through artists

in two parts – The Great Game, ‘one that situates Iranian

of the Armenian diaspora who came into being as a direct

artists within a wider context of the geographical areas that

result of the genocide. Interestingly, Sarkis, who shows in

surround it’; whilst Iranian Highlights, included works by four

this pavilion as well as representing Turkey, is perhaps the

Iranian artists - Samira Alikhanzadeh, Mahmoud Bakhshi,

most poignant reminder of how this tragedy still haunts

Jamshid Bayrami and Mohammad Ehsai, brought together

the lives of individuals who live with it. Questions to reflect

Sarkis, Respiro, 2015, Turkish pavilion installation view, image by AndrĂŠ Morin.

Pavilion Azerbaijan, Installation shots from the exhibition Beyond the Line (artwork by Huseyn Hagverdi), curated by de Pury de Pury, Emin Mammadov. Photographed by Sergey Khodakovsky, courtesy of Heydar Aliyev Foundation.

Mikayel Ohanjanyan, Tasnerku, 2015, Installation view, Mekhitarist Monastery of San Lazzaro degli Armeni, Venice, Courtesy the artist and Tornabuoni Arte Gallery, Florence, Piero Demo.

Sarkis, Respiro, 2015, Turkish pavilion installation view, image by AndrĂŠ Morin.

146

Samira Alikhanzadeh,Untitled, from the Family Album series, 2008, Acrylic and mirror fragments on printed board, courtesy of the artist.

Contemporary socially engaged art, begins to reveal what history wants us to forget, but we are constantly reminded through the movement of people and the stories they carry with them.

Javad Mirjavadov, Firemen, 1976, Collection of Q Gallery, Baku, Azerbaijan. Photographed by Mirnaib Hasanov, courtesy of Heydar Aliyev Foundation.

on across these two separate but interlinked pavilions. The standout contribution at the Iraqi presentation, Invisible Beauty, came in the form of the highly-charged automatic drawings of Salam Atta Sabri. These mostly black ink drawings, some incorporating text and imagery, present the torment and sadness of creating art in Baghdad, where he returned in 2005 after sixteen years of living abroad. Sabri speaks of wanting them ‘to evoke sadness’. His series, Letters from Baghdad, 2012-2015, shown for the first time publicly consists of 110 ink-drawings, depicting everyday life encounters in notebooks that Atta Sabri carries around with him. ‘The only way I can express myself and the only means of expressing the context of coming from Iraq’, said the artist. Drawings are the only way he is able to document his relationship with his country, Iraq, and the sadness brought on by living through past and current conflict. The Egyptian presentation at the Giardini fell flat for its confusing and rather literal installation Can You See? This installation seemed more at home at a design festival, as the words ‘PEACE’ in three-dimensional form, occupied the entire pavilion taking viewers on some morally inspired journey of choices associated with good and evil, through virtual reality via Samsung tablets. The final stop for this MENA tour was one part of the Azerbaijan presentation, Beyond the Line curated by Michaela and Simon de Pury. Simon de Pury had previously presented an auction of works by contemporary Azerbaijani artists in London in 2012. Following this auction, he was invited to curate this group show of Azerbaijani artists after spending an extended period of time researching the country’s art history. The entrance to this exhibition is cave-like. Black-carved wooden structures prevent an easy entry into the exhibition space. This difficulty in entering serves as a physical and visual manifestation of Huseyn Hagverdi’s heritage. His father migrated and lived a nomadic lifestyle fleeing USSR restrictions on Baku at the time. This led to constant restrictions on re-entering his hometown, which Hagverdi reinterprets as dark and dismembered totem-like structures

Rashad Alakbarov, Do Not Fear, 2015, installation. Image courtesy of the artist and YARAT.

that represent displacement and immigration. De Pury’s curatorial vision for the exhibition was inspired by a trip to the Baku Museum of Modern Art, where he discovered for the first time, a group of Azerbaijani painters

of the past continue to haunt us, regardless of geographical

who depicted life around them under USSR rule. Essentially,

separations. Contemporary socially engaged art, brings to

these artists worked in secrecy, evident in the folds in some

light what history wants us to forget but we are constantly

of the canvases as they were painted on a large scale

reminded through the movement of people and the stories

but folded to be stored and hidden away, some of these

they carry with them.

traces still visible on the surfaces of paintings displayed. De

Artists of the MENA region, as mentioned previously, deal

Pury commented on his amazement and excitement upon

with recurring themes of identity and conflict, and whilst

discovering these works ‘having considered he’s seen it all’

some pavilions dealt with this in a rather literal way (Egypt

in terms of modern and contemporary art. Notable works

especially), it was refreshing to see how presentations

include Industrial inspired realist paintings by Tofik Javadov

by Cyprus, Armenia (winners of the Golden Lion for best

and the abstract expressionist scenes of Javad Mirjavadov

pavilion) and Turkey offered more conceptually driven and

which were created at a time when these artists did not

thoughtful re-workings of this familiar terrain. These three

conform to the status-quo of USSR visual culture.

pavilions looked beyond or rather evoked new ways of

According to Shakespeare, ‘All the world’s a stage, And

thinking through the effects of such conflicts, not just on

all the men and women merely players’. When pavilions

countries within the region, but they all considered in different

looked beyond expected ways of presenting their histories,

ways, how these reverberate across the globe and are

engaging, challenging and thought-provoking questions were

often entwined in a much more complex, socio-political and

raised. The main message being the obvious, consequences

global stage, often involving descendants and diasporas.

148

Cultu r e C l u b

Let’s Stay Together He has revealed his own book collection sits at around 300,000 so it would be only fitting to appear as the hero in one of his own. Fendi pays homage to Karl Lagerfeld, master of reinvention and multitasking, as it shares the story behind its long-standing creative collaboration in Fendi by Karl Lagerfeld. By Susan Devaney

In 1965, Lagerfeld joined the collaborative venture with Fendi. He continued the foundations already put in place of changing fur. It was no longer a status symbol, but a modern must-have.

A new type of fur was introduced; it was light, soft and wearable. Fendi began experimenting with new tanning methods and processing techniques. In 1966 Fendi and Lagerfeld’s autumn/winter 66 collection was presented to the press and given their seal of approval.

In 1985 they present Fendi and Karl Lagerfeld, Un Percorso di Lavoro at GNAM (National Gallery of Modern Art) in Rome. Karl’s sketch outlines the fur revolution from the Sixties throughout the Eighties and into the future.

In 1996 Lagerfeld sketched a vertical figure for the new column silhouette. By 2000, the collection witnesses the use of coloured circles and squares, cementing the outstanding craftsmanship of the team.

‘Today, I only collect books; there is no room left for something else. If you go to my house, I’ll have you walk around the books. I ended up with a library of 300,000. It’s a lot for an individual’, he told Women’s Wear Daily. Lagerfeld is a selfconfessed bookworm, avid reader and lover of literature. For the fashion world, it came as no surprise when he opened his bookshop 7L in 1999, closely followed by his publishing company Editions 7L. If anyone knows the importance of writing

work each day to build on his references.

and sharing a great story, it’s Lagerfeld.

I understand him very well now, so I know

Their partnership first began in 1965. The

how to surprise him each time - to see

five Fendi sisters Paola, Anna, Franca,

the reaction in his eyes is something I’ve

Carla and Alda began to weave their

been trained to find’, artistic director

own story with Lagerfeld. The ‘creatives’

Silvia Fendi previously told MOJEH.

amongst us can (usually) only dream of

Working together in Italy, Lagerfeld flies

finding a partner who is working from the

to collaborate side-by-side with Silvia.

same page as themselves. But – 50 years

‘When he comes to Rome we only have a

on, Fendi and Lagerfeld are still intertwined

couple of days to pull everything together

in their long-standing creative process –

and make final selections, so we normally

with Silvia Fendi now taking the helm.

work through the nights and undoubtedly

‘There’s no rule; I take ideas from him and

things will continue to change up until

he takes ideas from me - it’s like osmosis.

moments before the show. When I was

He’s based in Paris and I’m in Milan, so

a little girl I remember the same thing

often Karl will offer his ideas and then I’ll

happening with my mother Anna - Karl

For the spring/summer 14 collection fur was no longer synonymous with wintery climes. Feather fur coats, dresses and tops with fur inserts on organza were given the sartorial nod for summer, the season of transformation.

150

Brought into the modern day, the team’s latest collection for autumn/winter 16 used panelling as a modern muse. With the use of linear structures, fur was used as cuffs or positioned on waists.

collection since has ventured into new territory and fur remains with a constant fresh aesthetic. Redesigning Fendi logos and researching new materials was a movement made by Lagerfeld – making way for inimitable craftsmanship.

New

methods

interweaving materials were studied and implemented, materials were imprinted, fur became pleated and coloured, lining was removed, leather was treated,

In 1993 the creation of Il Pazzo iconic fur for the fall/winter 1993-94 collection, a silk coat on leather with weasel, sable, mink, petit gris, beaver furs and wools in shades of brown featuring a multi-material manual application ‘a cascata’ (waterfall).

always had the most incredible references

lightened and open-worked. The way we

and inspirations and everyone would

initially viewed fur was changed forever;

work on perfecting them until the very

it became fun.

last moment’, she says. Their admiration

Lagerfeld has been an integral part of

for each other has been unwavering

Fendi’s constant revival and reinvention

throughout the years – with Karl calling the

of fur decade after decade. Positioned

second generation of the Fendi family, ‘the

inside a small wooden box, Fendi’s book

five fingers of a hand’. They’re attributed

plays with a collector’s scrapbook appeal.

to bringing a new enthusiasm and success

Their story – of the longest relationship

to the brand after they started in 1946.

between a designer and Maison in the

It was during the Fifties that the shift of

fashion industry - is detailed with beautiful

what was wanted by women was felt and

sketches and precious moments from their

catered for by the family. There was a

historic archive. With a recent worldwide

social evolution across Europe and the

preview of the book at Cannes Film Festival,

sisters knew how to reshape fur to fit the

we can expect to lay our hands on a copy

new outlook – it had to be modern. Every

when it reaches bookshelves this summer.

My Summer

Old memories, new experiences and fresh perspectives – summer’s the time for reflection and rejuvenation. Follow a few MOJEH favourites as they take to the skies.

Beauty essentials? Whether by air or sea, it’s moisturiser. I swear by Ren and the Calm Global Protection Day Cream wherever I am. We also all use Dr. Lucas Papaw Ointment for everything from insect bites, chapped skin or minor burns. Your style for 2015? For the cooler weather down-under, lots of denim and my leather biker jacket. I’m also wearing a lot of Seventies shapes and I always love peasant-style tops and dresses. Summer inspirations? Travel, music, literature and social media (in particular Instagram). Any style muses? Internationally, Kate Moss, Alexa Chung, Tash Sefton, Elle Ferguson and Bridget Bardot. Locally, I follow Teresa Karpinska

Heidi Raeside Founder of Tuesday’s Child

and Natalia Shustova. What will you be reading this summer? I’m a ferocious reader. I’ve already bought my third Donna Tartt novel (The Little Friend),

4 1. LUCAS PAPAW OINTMENT | 2. REN, Hydra-Calm Global Protection Day Cream | 3. TOMMY HILFIGER DENIM | 4. RAG & BONE available at Harvey Nichols - Dubai

Where will you be travelling to?

my fourth Sebastian Faulks (Birdsong) and A

My parents live in the south island of

Fine Balance by Rohinton Mistry to consume

New Zealand, near the vineyard region of

whilst travelling. I’ve just finished my second

Marlborough. It’s winter there in the Dubai

Lionel Shriver, The New Republic, which was

summer and now that I have kids, we escape

brilliant. The books I am highly recommending

there every summer for a couple of months.

to my friends for this summer’s reading lists

We’ll also be spending a week in Sydney on

are Thrive by Arriana Huffington, Lean In by

the way home - I’m looking forward to some

Sheryl Sandberg and How to Be a Woman by

cosmopolitan city life.

Caitlin Moran.

How do you keep everyone entertained?

How do you workout while on the move?

Exercise your best inbuilt entertainment

I love to run. It clears my head and keeps

muscles: imagination and conversation. So

me fit - it’s also the most flexible of workouts

we talk A LOT! It’s working so far - my kids

when you’re travelling. All I need are my

are total chatter-box fantasists!

trainers and iPod.

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M OJEH E x plo r e r

Dana Abdelhadi Co-founder of Expose Communications

Where will you be travelling to? NYC, Montreal and Toronto. Who is your ideal travel partner? My husband. What are your travel essentials? My iPhone to stay connected to my office and to snap my perfect holiday moments, Mykita Sunglasses and a Maison Michel hat. Beauty musts? Laura Mercier’s tinted moisturiser, Kerastase Elixir Ultime hair serum, EOS lipbalm and my Clarisonic brush. Your staple summer style? A Kage playsuit to take me from day to night and kimonos with denim shorts, both topped off with white Converse that go with everything. What inspires you for summer? Cliché but the summer festivals – music, sun and a carefree attitude. Hidden gems? I love spending some summer time in Canada, as it is truly an Dana with her niece in New York

understated holiday destination. From laying in parks, to eating at delicious restaurants and enjoying breath taking scenic spots; you never fall short of things to do and there’s also the joy of spotting undiscovered yet super talented fashion brands.

Top culture pick? Going to the theatre in NYC. Your summer reading? I love discovering local fashion magazines on holiday. How do you workout while away? Biking and walking – that’s the only way I get around and discover different neighbourhoods. What’s your guilty pleasure? Lobster roll food trucks – I never know when enough is enough. 3

Your most memorable summer ever? Summer of 2014 – first long holiday I took since we started Expose Communications in 2009. It gave me a chance to spend quality time with my husband and family and enjoy the perks of work/life balance. Your 2015 summer playlist? I will finally be purchasing my Crosley record player so I’ll be on the hunt for the best vinyls I can find – it will be a throwback kind 4

of summer. Favourite bikini brands?

Zimmerman – nothing else comes close to these fabulous Australian designs.

pieces from Missoni, Dsquared and Valentino to create the perfect summer wardrobe. What’s your guilty pleasure? I know it’s not too healthy but I love eating late, especially on holiday when meals are more relaxed and you can take your time to savour every bite.

Rami Al Ali Couture designer

Do you have a favourite summer workout? I love jogging by the beach or if there’s some greenery I use the opportunity to go for a hike and check out the scenery. Your summer playlist?

What’s your favourite summer spot?

I embrace being surrounded by a different culture

The Mediterranean is one of my favourite holiday

and tune into the local radio station.

destinations, there’s just something about it that’s particularly alluring – the scenery, people

What’s your favourite summer flower?

and the weather are all amazing and there’s a

I love the soothing scent and pureness of

certain laidback feeling.

Jasmine flowers – they have a very calming, elegant presence.

Who is your ideal travel partner? I love to travel with my family and friends. But

Do you have an essential summer scent?

when I get the chance, I wander and give myself

Tom Ford Neroli Portofino is a must for summer

a little quiet time – a perfect moment to find

– it’s a very nostalgic scent with fond memories.

inspiration for a new collection. In what way do your travels inspire your Your travel essentials?

designs?

For me, inspiration can strike anywhere and

Travelling helps me to gain different perspectives.

anytime so I always make sure to have my

My SS15 couture collection is inspired by

sketchbook and pencil with me. My iPad and

Japanese culture – I am always intrigued by

iPhone are two of my other must-haves.

hidden richness and the juxtapositions of innocence and mystery. Natural elements are

1. MISSONI @stylebop.com | 2. TOM FORD, Neroli Portofino

What will you be wearing this summer?

also a source of inspiration for me; the Brazilian

It depends on the destination but I’m usually

rainforest sparked the theme for my 2014

casual and a bit bohemian when it comes to

couture collection – the vibrant ambience in

holiday dressing. I’ll definitely be packing some

the jungle was fascinating.

154

What will you be wearing this summer? Summer is all about colour, so of course I will be wearing a lot of Zena Presley. I also love the fact that a lot of the pieces can be taken from day to night, which is perfect for travel when you are out all day. Are your collections inspired by your travels? Travel is the perfect way to discover art, which is what my clothing line is all about. When I am travelling, all my surroundings inspire me. It could be a painting I discover in one of the art galleries, a picturesque scene of nature or even a busy afternoon in the traditional local markets. What are your favourite dining spots on your travels? I love trying all the traditional spots on my travels, which is where you normally try something you haven’t tasted before. And when we choose to have a fancy dinner we always go for seafood or sushi. What’s your staple summer workout? Joey Atlas - a 15 to 30-minute effective workout that keeps your body in its summer shape. It is perfect for a busy summer on the move. Your most memorable summer ever? I am torn between so many remarkable vacations,

ZENA PRESLEY Designer

but the most memorable one is definitely the summer of my engagement last year. Two weeks of festivities and getting to see all my friends and family. What’s your summer flower of choice? The Cosmos flower, it is a light purple flower that feels

Where will you be travelling to?

exactly like summer, it is so light yet so sophisticated.

I plan two summer trips every year. One is always

It just looks like a flowy summer dress.

to Lebanon to see family and friends and there is

ZENA PRESLEY

always a big wedding or two to attend! So it’s always

Who are your go-to bikini brands?

an eventful week of celebrations, which means of

I love Zimmerman and Mara Hoffman, they incorporate

course outfits need to be planned and dresses need

print so well into their designs and make gorgeous

to be ready.

one piece swimsuits.

And the second?

And for pool-side accessories?

The second destination is different every year. It’s

Clover Canyon always has beautiful cover-ups, they

been a while since I have had a European summer,

are all about colours and prints, which is exactly

so I am considering Spain. I recently visited Barcelona

what I love. I also have a thing for Missoni’s beach

in January, it was my first time and really made me

accessories, whether cover-ups or headbands, their

want to go back.

prints have such a luxurious summer feel.

Photographed by Olivier Rose

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