ISSUE 29 by MOJEH

LES BEIGES NATURAL IS A STYLE

CHANEL . COM

THERE ARE EXCEPTIONS TO EVERY RULE. Arabic Ad

English Ad MILLENARY IN PINK GOLD.

8 Chairman SHAHAB IZADPANAH

EDITORIAL

PUBLISHING

Editor in Chief MOJEH IZADPANAH

Publishing Director RADHIKA NATU

Associate Editor SHERI IZADPANAH

Publishing Assistant DESIREE LABANDA-GAVERIA

Managing Editor KELLY BALDWIN

Junior Publishing Assistant Kisada Hurin

Fashion Writer susan devaney

Paris Representative GHISLAIN DE CASTELBAJAC

Senior Editorial Assistant Natalie Trevis

Senior Advertisement Manager Pamela Bayram Cleave

Editorial Assistant jemma walker

Advertising Inquiries Tel: +971 4 553 90 49 Email: advertising@mojeh.com

MOJEH Men Group Jake Hamilton Christopher Prince

Subscription Tel: +971 4 553 90 49 Email: subs@mojeh.com

Guest Fashion Stylists James V. Thomas Olivia Arnaud

LOUIS FOURTEEN FOR MOJEH

ART

Concierge Service Management ASSMA AHMED

Producer LOUIS AGENCY

Corporate Manager JUBRAN HAMATI

Art Director AMIRREZA AMIRASLANI

Manager IT Division Ali Roman

Graphic Designer Balaji Mahendran

Senior Stylist MARIAN GIRGIS

Digital Strategy LOUIS AGENCY Contributing Photographers Alice Rosati Julien Vallon SARVENAZ HASHTROUDI

Cover photographed by Julien Vallon, models wear Dior.

Published under HS Media Group FZ LLC Registered at Dubai Design District Building No. 8, Offices 212 P.O.Box 502333, Dubai, UAE. WWW.MOJEH.COM Louis Fourteen for MOJEH Follow us on Twitter @MOJEH_Magazine MOJEH Swiss Representative Office: Rue de Rive 4, 1204 Geneva, Switzerland Average qualified circulation (January-June 2014): 14,184 copies. For the UAE printed by Emirates Printing Press LLC. Distribution- UAE: Al Nisr Distribution LLC. Qatar: Dar Al Sharq. Bahrain: Jashanmal & Sons BSC (C). Oman: United Media Services LLC. Lebanon: Messageries Du Moyen-Orient The publishers regret that they cannot accept liability for error or omissions contained in this publication, however caused. The opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessary those of the publishers. Readers are advised to seek specialist advice before acting on information contained in this publication which is provided for general use and may not be appropriate for the readers particular circumstances. The ownership of trademark is acknowledged, therefore reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. All credits are subjects to change. Copyright HS MEDIA GROUP FZ LLC 2011

M o j eh C o ntent s

SOCIETY 20. Woman in Society Mochi founder and influencer Ayah Tabari takes us on her route through philanthropy and design.

23. Vintage Charms Stacy Lauren Smith knows a thing or two about jewellery and the art of style. She shares her secrets in picking the perfect vintage charm.

34. A Family Affair They’re keeping things in the family. We meet with the mother and daughter dynamic House of Herrera as they unveil their new perfume collection.

FASHION 48. Press Refresh

66. My Stylish Life

As your wardrobe transitions from spring to summer

Tamara al Gabbani has multiple strings to her bow.

to winter, pick a pre-Fall trend from our edit and

From modelling to television presenting to designing,

run with it.

she’s inspiring young women across the region.

58. Denim Dream

72. Against All Odds

It’s a failsafe iconic fashion staple. We showcase

In light of the recent Nepal earthquake, we speak to

the designers who have taken denim and given it

fashion designer Prabal Gurung about his foundation

a luxe makeover.

and why Nepal will always be home.

ACCESSORIES 130. Most Desired Adorning yourself in jewels is a must-do this summer. From Dior’s dramatic colourful stones to Piaget’s turning rings, their new collections are on our radar.

134. Life Through a Lens Have you found them yet? We’ve got this summer’s hottest shades covered to help you pick a pair of sunnies that are just perfect for you.

136. Jet Set Accessories Whether you’re off to see the bright lights of the city or retreating from the hustle and bustle, we bring you the accessories that will add an extra dose to your style getaway.

BEAUTY

CULTURE

142. The Life of Hanneli

152. Art Addict

How does she do it? Style maven and influential

Who was Peggy Guggenheim? Directed by Lisa

blogger Hanneli Mustaparta shares her health and

Immordino Vreeland, the documentary film Art Addict

beauty secrets with us.

explores the colourful life of the avid collector.

144. Futuristic Fitness

154. Pattern Power

Will it make us fitter, faster and stronger? MOJEH

From polka dot to plaid, patterns are all part of our

contributor Oliver Robinson investigates the rise of

daily life. We delve into the mathematics, human

cyber workouts.

experience and understanding of powerful patterns.

E d i t o r ’s L ette r

Lasting Visions

barbecued to perfection along the coast of Portofino or you embrace a staycation in a slightly quieter Middle East, make a conscious effort to breathe in deeply and hold on tightly to that moment. This time of year is, of course, also full of great fashion choices, each perfect for evoking a carefree summer spirit. But interchangeable climates and floating from beach to city, and back again, means that harder and the Pre-Fall collections have

letting go of any restraints. Pressing the

stepped up to the mark. With a plethora

reset button and taking a few days, or

of inspiration and ideologies shinning

weeks, to get back to basics and remind

through – from a fresh spin on fur and

yourself what’s important. Whether that’s

August’s new hue, beige, to power suits

being with friends and family, exploring

– there’s an array of options for your

undiscovered lands or simply taking some

many moments and moods. I for one

‘me’ time, we’ve seen a major, and much

will be taking in beautiful sunsets while

needed, shift toward living in the moment

adorning a richly-coloured maxi gown

(being mindful of what you have here and

and exploring new city streets in this

now, and cherishing it, rather than letting

season’s spin on animal print, ferocious

it pass you by). So when your toes first

but versatile.

touch the water in the South of France,

Whatever you’re in search of, make the

you take that first bite of fresh fish,

moment count.

Follow me on Twitter and Instagram @Mojeh_I and write to me at editor@mojeh.com

Mojeh Izadpanah Editor in Chief

Photographed by Julien Vallon

your wardrobe has to work that little bit Summer is about setting yourself free and

E d i t o r â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s S N A P SH OT s

There’s something very holiday-friendly about patterns and prints: they’re fun, flirtatious and versatile. Whether you’re jetting off to cooler climes or sun drenched beaches, transform your wardrobe with a sartorial nod to summer, courtesy of a Christian Dior patterned dress.

S t yl e N ote

Armoury Attraction

From top to bottom: Iradj Moini, Gemco at Boom and Mellow and Chanel

Brave is the buzzword in summer accessories, as we move towards bigger and bolder pieces to embellish our gentle, flyaway dresses. Worn solo or stacked, look towards brands such Iradj Moini to up the anti when deciding on your armour.

B e a u ty N ote

7 6

Su m m wi er th b tak a g ea an es o ent uty c l d n lum cr se e w alls e a a sh for ino am so of ir n o s s l to al s f b ides fin ipst ity, lu ce ty e ic t al few ks a hen ven le. L sh p nt a sp nd n finis out ook ink nd g s las l h wi skin tow for owi he ail v a t a so an ng h sm ton rds s f th rnis hig eleg kin c all e a e m hes a o hos . Em sw nd im nt b mp i e t fe p mi brac es o nco pac ut e lete ur t nin e t f a e r he sea age seru sy so os th e na ice- ms es l l ce me nte ful sha ike d f ly w des rag i ran th a ce 3 s.

Wo m a n i n S o c ie t y

A Journey of

Empowerment Through Embroidery Mochi founder and designer AyahTabari takes us on her philanthropic journey from the streets of Goa and Jaipur to the design studios of one of our most successful regional brands to date. By Ayah Tabari

Mochi started with a journey. I was in Goa on

the Mochi brand was born from there. For

a road trip with my friends in 2010 when one

each collection Mochi uses ancient bright

day the glistening embroidery of bucket bags

coloured embroidery to create one-of-a-kind

along the bustling streets caught my eye.

modern trend silhouettes. One of the first

Instantly, I was in love. The way the intricate

pieces was the Jaipur crop top and skirt,

embellishment brought the satchels to life, the

which still remains a best seller. Our pieces

artisans stood close-by (with the passion for

are meant to make women feel a sense of

their craft written across their face) and the

empowerment. The Mochi girl is a happy

untold story that I was certain lay in between

one, stylish but sophisticated. The tailors

each and every one of those tiny stitches –all

I work with – from those that have been

drove my desire to do something memorable.

with me from the beginning to those who

I couldn’t walk away, instead I thought that

have joined more recently – understand the

ordering two hundred of them was a good

product and the materials and I cannot do

idea, which I then had shipped back to

my job without them.

Dubai, where I vowed to find use for them

I have always had a strong love for fashion,

one day. The bags may not have made

but once you decide to start a career in it, it

it out of my storage basement, but their

can be an uphill struggle at times. It’s labour

story, their inspiration, has fuelled both my

intensive and extremely competitive but the

mind-set and Mochi.

reward of creating a collection, which gets a

Later that year on a business trip to New

great response, while being able to support

Delhi, I decided to go to Jaipur. I had read

communities around the world, is a feeling

about the tailors and fabrics and wanted to

that I find difficult to describe. It pushes you

do a bit more research of my own. I didn’t

to be animated, charitable and creative all at

tell anyone, not even my friends and family, I

once. I am so lucky that I have a team and

just took any money I had and left in search

support network that believe in the brand

of an adventure. I found my tailors, and

and also live the Mochi journey alongside me.

Ayah photographed by Sarvenaz Hashtroudi. She wears Mochi.

Fashion is definitely not a 9 to 5, five days a

philanthropic endeavours by partnering with

week job, so the only way to survive is by

the Women’s Global Empowerment Fund,

surrounding yourself with the right people.

providing them with support all year around.

The philanthropic part of the Mochi story

I grew up in a culture that always encouraged

came on my travels in 2013 when I spent

the support of those around you and being

a lot of time with the talented women who

mindful of those who didn’t have as much.

create my materials. I already had a strong

Because of this, my friends and family are

interest in the power of women and so

particularly supportive of the Mochi ideology,

wanted to do something to help sustain these

we’re all on the same wavelength.

beautifully talented stitching communities.

My sister Maliha also has a sustainable living

To this day, Mochi works with six stitching

brand called Ocean Soles, which has a similar

communities, creating a number of jobs in

charitable aspect and my father has always

each and ensuring that the unique talent and

given back to charities he believes are making

craftsmanship is able to flourish in the right

a difference. It’s all about believing, if you

environment. Last year we further pursued our

see how that person is making a difference,

I love supporting people and it inspires me to see how I have personally contributed to their quality of life, it also makes me feel connected to these strong talented women from many different walks of life.

to these strong talented women from many different walks of life. They adore and respect their work, and so do I. Currently we have over 21 stockists worldwide in UK, Europe, Asia and the Middle East, none of this would be possible without their hard work and dedication to their craft. My two year plan is to have set up The Mochi Foundation, a charitable organization in support of stitching communities and the less fortunate creative talent through out the world. Although we already supporting the communities we work with, there are many more talented communities out there who havenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t received the correct support and platforms to flourish and offer others what they have so far been able to offer me. The Mochi Foundation will help them with training programs and education so they can further themselves. Ayah wears pieces from her personal collection.

Last year we partnered with the Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Global Empowerment Fund to make a oneoff jacket for Valentines Day and created only 12 limited edition pieces where half the where the money is going and how it is

proceeds went to them. We currently have

helping them invest, both in terms of time,

many more similar and exciting projects on

money and training, it is well worthwhile.

the horizon that we hope will turn heads

The support of young courageous and

and garner everyoneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s attention. In the

powerful women like Cara Delevingne, Rita

meantime, I am continuing to design my

Ora and Gigi Hadid, who also understand

next collection, which will see me work with

and embrace our story, has helped get the

another country famous for its embroidery

message out to a wider audience.

as I move my way across continents in

I love supporting people and it inspires me to

search of passion and perfection.

see how I have personally contributed to their

Mochi began with a journey, and has turned

quality of life, it also makes me feel connected

into an adventure.

Vintage Charms

As a jewellery curator and celebrity business manager,

THORIN & CO. necklace, vintage crystals on silver plate | unsigned minaudiere circa 1980s

Stacy Lauren Smith has spent a lifetime learning about jewellery and the art of style. Amassing an unrivaled collection of vintage jewels by the likes of Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent and Lacroix, she collects and sells her treasures at Barneys New York under the name Stazia Loren. We explore the origins of Stacyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s keen eye for a gem and find out what we should all be looking for in that perfect vintage piece.

When did jewellery start to become a part of your life? I had a grandmother named Florence who was an interior designer and a milliner from New York who had moved to the south to marry. Her passion was collecting costume jewellery. She only wore certain pieces. The rest was carefully cataloged and kept in ISABEL CANOVAS goldplated circa 1980s

boxes with dates and descriptions. What did your grandmother teach you about jewellery? My sister and I spent the weekends with her and were allowed to look at the boxes very gently. Many happy days were spent looking and imagining and dreaming of all the gorgeous gems. My Nana had impeccable taste and taught me the difference between good taste and bad. She said it wasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t about money but the way one put things together and the way one presented oneself to the world. What was the first piece of jewellery you ever received? My father bought me a beautiful small ankle bracelet with my name on it. Where do you source your vintage pieces?

What has been the highlight of curating your collection?

I source everywhere but mainly in Europe. For important

Finding a complete set from around the world. I found the

pieces I buy from respectable people and respectable

necklace in Washington, the bracelet in New York and

places so that I know the provenance. Vintage is getting

the earrings in France. The pieces were numbered and

harder and harder to find.

signed. It was like putting a master puzzle together and chasing it around the globe, and it all worked.

BOUCHER rhodium-plated diamante necklace circa 1950s and TRIFARI gold-plated necklace circa 1960s | (left hand) LEDO rhodium-plated cuff circa 1960s and TRIFARI gold-plated bracelet | (right hand) LANVIN gold-plated cuff with crystals circa 1980s and VIONNET silver and gold-plated bracelet circa 1980s

How can we tell if a piece of vintage jewellery is genuine? Certain brands are sometimes copied in the industry. I try not to collect those brands and if I do I buy only from very well-known dealers. As many people are reading this, regarding the legitimate and not legitimate, this is the comment that I will make:Know your provenance and

Images courtesy of Stazia Loren. Photography by Paul Alves.

know whom you are buying from. What is one piece of vintage jewellery that you would love to find? If I answer this then you may beat me to it. The hint is that it is Yves Saint Laurent sometime during the sixties. What does the future hold for Stazia Loren? I pray to have great humility so that I am open to adventure, to discover new treasures, to accept what comes my way and to see more gorgeous smiles as they are adorned with vintage. It is my wish to be in the best stores in the world so that I may find more treasures and meet more of you!

T a l k ing P o i nt

Facing Fatigue

By Giverney Megan Edwards

The Adrenal Fatigue Debate is simple: Does it or doesn’t it exist? It is the answer which is the problem – in that there frankly isn’t one. At least not one which is universal or particularly helpful to those for whom the symptoms of the syndrome are very much a living nightmare. There are facts, of course, but there are also feelings. Unless we open our eyes, these are easy to over-look, and life is easy to over-do. MOJEH takes a moment to delve in and discuss.

Forest Keepers, photographed by Anthony Arquier, MOJEH issue 24

individuals differently and to varying degrees. In the case of Adrenal Fatigue, the condition may not be visible, because there isn’t one ‘thing’ to ‘see’. You may often look well, but feel you are living by masking a general lack of wellbeing, which sufferers often describe as a feeling of ‘greyness.’ ‘I can cover up dark circles with concealer, that’s not a problem. The problem is that I have to hide them as like my dirty secret because I feel like I have failed if I admit I’m exhausted,’ admitted a colleague whose husband has no idea how much she struggles to get through the day without her full face of make-up, and caffeine pills. Does she think

Two women meet in a coffee shop mid-morning, after a

she is an Adrenal Fatigue sufferer? ‘I don’t think so – I think

few frenzied hours of child care, checking emails, running

we all probably feel this way these days,’ she says, but her

errands and running to the gym. ‘How are you?’ one asks,

reply almost sounds like a question. The problem is, unless

sipping a double shot skinny cappuccino and muting her

you can check off all the symptoms, you may not recognise

frantically buzzing smartphone. ‘I’m ok, just so exhausted,’

the correlation between what you are feeling, and what you

sighs her friend, whose iPhone is also flashing furiously on

may be suffering from.

the table. Grabbing their croissants to go, they continue in

The most common indications of Adrenal Fatigue include

their conversation, neither addressing or elaborating on their

feeling tired for no reason, feeling overwhelmed and feeling

admittance of exhaustion. Eight hours, three coffees and a

anxious, especially in the evenings and thus being unable

diet coke later, with errands ran, tasks ticked off, commutes

to switch off, craving sweet and salty foods, struggling to

tackled, offices shut and kids asleep, it is more than likely

recover well from ailments such as colds and flu, weight

that both will grab a quick bite to eat, check their email

fluctuations and even loss of libido, insomnia and depression

and social media one last time before catching a few hours

are more concrete and specific examples. A combination of a

sleep before the alarm clock calls and it’s time for the 6am

few or more of the above, along with other symptoms, which

espresso, 7am Physique 57 class and 8am conference call.

often stand alone, such as digestive problems, changes to

As you read this, alarm bells may be ringing, perhaps rightly

the menstrual cycle, poor memory, irritability, mood swings

so. Yet like Superwomen we battle through each day, week

and headaches, should act as a major stop sign, whether

and month with only our concoctions of sleeping pills,

or not you believe Adrenal Fatigue is the culprit.

stimulants and sugar-fixes to arm us as our superpowers.

The one key cause which defines Adrenal Fatigue is that

It is little wonder that our response to the question, ‘How

the adrenal glands, which sit near the top of our kidneys,

are you?’ is more often not that we are fine, but that we are

start to function below their necessary level. These glands

exhausted. Our bodies are simply not designed to endure the

are responsible for producing different kinds of hormones

constant, steady grind of over-stimulation which we expect

(cortisol and adrenaline to name two) to allow the body to

it to cope with, and recover from, in less time overnight than

respond to different kinds of stresses whether physical,

we strain it for during the day. In fact, it is estimated that

emotional, psychological and regulate the body to an

up to 80 percent of people in industrialised areas will suffer

optimum homeostasis. The theory of Adrenal Fatigue

from extreme exhaustion at some point during their lives,

suggests that, through over stimulation caused by either

according to Dr. James Wilson, author of the bestseller,

one single extreme stress, or chronic, cumulative stresses,

Adrenal Fatigue: 21st Century Stress Syndrome.

our adrenal glands are often forced into a constant state

But what do we mean by extreme exhaustion? You will have

of fight-or-flight and thus unable to function as effectively.

noticed that Adrenal Fatigue – the title of the argument and

They simply cannot keep up with the demand we are

the focus of this debate – has not yet been mentioned, and

forcing upon them. But, since they are themselves not

deliberately so. First and foremost, the fact of this matter

visible, how do we know?

is that an exhaustion epidemic is very much existent –

Though mainstream medics tend not to recognise Adrenal

particularly in women – and worsening the more we insist

Fatigue as an actual condition, there are certain tests you

on cramming into our daily lives. But there is a distinct

can do to check the functioning of your adrenal glands by

difference between the body being overloaded with stress,

measuring the levels of cortisol in the blood – although with

fatigue and over-exertion and the adrenal glands functioning

both saliva and blood tests the results tend to be somewhat

deficiently – a syndrome labelled Adrenal Fatigue.

unreliable as they only indicate the levels within the blood

The key word, indeed, is ‘syndrome.’ Adrenal Fatigue is not

(as opposed to the tissue also) and these levels rise and fall

termed a disease, a disorder, or even a condition, and is not

so timed or multiple tests would be required for accuracy.

even commonly accepted as existent by the conventional

The alternative medical world are much more open to the

medical world. Dr. James Wilson has been quoted as saying

idea of Adrenal Fatigue, suggesting that the best way to

that ‘the conventional medical model is disease-based […]

gage your level of exhaustion is to firstly assess whether

but Adrenal Fatigue isn’t a disease – it’s a sub-functioning

your fatigue can be remedied by rest and sleep. Physical

of the adrenal glands.’

and psychological rest should always be the first thing to try,

Basically, Adrenal Fatigue is notoriously difficult to pinpoint

because the key factor of chronic fatigue is that it cannot

because of its complexity. Ailments termed ‘syndromes’ tend

be remedied by sleep – though it is important to stress here

to indicate a multi-faceted myriad of signs, which often affect

that sleep as a combined method of combat, can be one

Addressing the issue of Adrenal Fatigue and committing to tackle it head on is often the toughest part of the healing process, as, since the symptoms are mainly invisible, they are easy to ignore.

Forest Keepers, photographed by Anthony Arquier, MOJEH issue 24

Integrated health specialist at London’s elite, women’s only health-hub Grace Belgravia, suggests a breathing technique called Minute Breathing Meditation as a simple and effective place to start, advising, ‘Lightly press together the tops of your thumb and little fingers. Gently breathe into your stomach to the count of four, hold for two, then breathe out to the count of four, and hold again for two. This is a great technique to deepen your breath and bring you back into the present moment. Do for two minutes and repeat every hour through the day.’ Indeed, taking ‘me’ time can benefit us all, and often,

of the most effective remedies. Richard Clarke, a renowned

without even realising it, we can achieve a more positive

health coach, personal trainer and sports scientist, has had

mind set purely by focusing on restful things we enjoy at

experience of extreme fatigue himself and believes that

least once a day, whether it be yoga, meditation or simply

adrenal fatigue is ‘a milder version of Addison’s disease,

an extra hour in bed. Whilst such things seem simple,

a combination of emotional, physical and environmental

they are often overlooked, and easy to forget when we

stress over the long term that causes people to suffer and

become so busy that our ‘selves’ are last on the list of

‘burn out’ their adrenal glands… so the sooner one acts, the

priorities in the daily cycle. Hamilton-Stubber‘s ethos is

better.’ When he started to suffer himself, Richard undertook

that ‘change starts within and everything is connected.’

a full body detox, removing all mercury fillings, chemicals

She urges that one of the most profound ways to improve

even from soaps and deodorants, and built up his physical

even magnanimous issues like Adrenal Fatigue is often to

fitness, in conjunction with ample rest, over a period of 12

start small, ‘by recognising that the thoughts we have are

months and a dramatic improvement. He now promotes a

just the stories we tell ourselves. Once we understand that

28 day version of his detox plan as a kick start to a healthier

we have choice on how we relate to the world, then we

way of living, at www.richard-clarke.co.uk.

can review what works, and what does not. At first this can

Addressing the issue of Adrenal Fatigue and committing to

seem overwhelming and fearful as we begin to wire the brain

tackle it head on is often the toughest part of the healing

in a new way [but] I see it like coming off the motorway

process, as, since the symptoms are mainly invisible, they

and getting out the JCB Digger to begin building a new

are easy to ignore. If we cut ourselves, we apply antiseptic

road. This takes time, patience and kindness. Meditation

and a plaster, and if we have a headache we apply a cold

is essential in finding the space in life.’

compress and take a painkiller. But the signs of stress

If there is one thing which debating Adrenal Fatigue can

cannot often be spot treated, so our solution is simply to

prove, it is that we all need to break our cycles. Whether

ignore them – at the expense of our wellbeing, as we worsen

that means taking a literal break in the day, the week or

without recovery. One of the main reasons the medical

the month to simply rest, reset and relax – or, if you have

world is sceptical about Adrenal Fatigue is that with the

identified with the more extreme levels of fatigue mentioned,

rise of the wellness industry in recent years – alternative

seeking advice from your medical practitioner to address

medicines, healing processes and remedies for the mind

your concerns – we can surely all benefit from stepping

such as Reiki, meditation, acupuncture, yoga and crystal

back and asking, ‘How am I feeling today?’

healing– comes a rise in the amount of money spent to heal

Well-being is at the heart of all we do, and all we are, yet

what are, essentially, very commonplace ailments. Many of

more often than not we are too tired, too stressed, or too

the aforementioned healing practices carry a hefty price tag

busy to address the issues that may be worsening the

with their promises of the perfect mind and body balance,

longer we leave them. As Hamilton-Stubber explains, ‘When

so it is easy to see why the medics are unconvinced – giving

you are able to be fully present in this moment there is no

a combination of contraindications a title such as Adrenal

fear. Fear and anxiety only exist in the past or the future.

Fatigue certainly does attach more weight to them and

Initially it takes discipline – or I prefer ‘Blissapline’ – and

provokes more worry in those who suffer the symptoms.

consistency to make changes. It then becomes exciting, and

On the flipside, providing we are sensible in our approach

empowering as you embrace the quality of your choices.’

to healing, and wary of expensive treatments which have

And we could all manage a little more Blissapline, right?

no medical backing, is there necessarily any negative

As to whether Adrenal Fatigue exists, the debate will

implications of becoming more wellness-aware and

surely continue but for many years, but the reality is proof

seeking help in remedying what can genuinely be extremely

enough. The cures, the remedies and roads to recovery

distressing and chronic symptoms through natural means?

are, like the symptoms, many and varied – but they are

The first steps suggested by health and wellness experts

readily available and beneficial to all. An open mind –

are always holistic and health-focused – the essentials in

closed only to negativity and scepticism – is likely the best

combating all signs of Adrenal Fatigue are ensuring that

and only cure to calm the storm of the Adrenal Fatigue

the basics are firmly in place. These are a good amount of

debate. A little mindfulness is free of charge and goes a

rest and sleep where possible, a cut back on caffeine and

long way – in invoking personal peace, self-awareness

stimulants, a whole food diet and a focus on switching off

and more so, awareness in others. There is nothing wrong

your mobile phones, emails, televisions in the evening, to fully

with debating Adrenal Fatigue, and let’s be thankful that

relax and unwind. Maxine Hamilton-Stubber, a renowned

it is out in the open so that hope for cures can prevail.

Cultu r e C l u b

T he

eye

American Beauty by Claiborne Swanson Frank With the helping hand of her friend Genevieve Bahrenburg, world-renowned photographer Claiborne Swanson Frank travelled the world to capture American women in their most beautiful states. Mainly shot during a four-month stint, the collection of 110 portraits results in an inspirational portfolio. From Elettra Wiedemann to Lily Aldridge, the allAmerican beauties radiate from the pages.

Travel What books will you take with you as you jet off for the summer? Whether you’re off to chilly climes or city-stepping in Europe, we’ve selected your three fashionable must-reads.

Gypset by Julia Chaplin Devised into a trilogy – Style, Travel and Living – New York-based journalist Julia Chaplin portrays the lives of the über glamorous jet setters. From artists, to surfers and designers, she depicts their bohemian way of life through a series of first person anecdotes and stunning photography. It proves that an unconventional way of life can take you around the world, in style.

My Paris Dream by Kate Betts As a budding young fashion journalist in the eighties, Betts depicts her coming-of-age journey, as she crosses continents to make something of herself. Leaving her native New York City, she follows her dreams to the City of Light. Poignant and beautifully insightful, she recounts the raw reality of finding yourself away from home.

Images courtesy of Assouline.com.

has

F a sh io n IN F O C US

Fashion Forward Fur may traditionally be a winter must, but we view it as too fun a fabric to hide away for seasons. A subtle dash found in accessories or embellishing outerwear is an indulgent way to re-introduce the material before winter. Who are we to argue with Fendi’s Little Monsters?

Colour Wheel Dip your toes into whatever hue takes your fancy this season, from acid brights to subtle candy crushes. There’s no better time to turn to audacity when refreshing your holiday wardrobe. A colour clash becomes a style should.

Pure & Simple If a less is more approach to dressing is your main mantra then stick to a finely fresh palette come summer. Turn to delicate shades of green a la Balenciaga â&#x20AC;&#x201C; or muted tones (with furry details) courtesy of Louis Vuitton. Take a cue from Mother Nature and keep your outfit choices pure and simple.

Loud & Proud Take to the streets and say how you feel. Whether you opt for a cute pair of cat-inspired pumps by Charlotte Olympia or in-your-face shades from Henry Holland, say it loud and say it proud. Ensure to finish off your ensemble with a nod to bejewelled pieces from Seam Schepps.

D e sig n er I nter vie w

Carolina Herrera and Carolina Herrera de Báez

A F amily

Carolina Herrera has built a dynasty out of all things stylish. Together with her daughter Carolina Herrera de Báez, creative director at Herrera’s House of Fragrances, the pair unveiled perfume collection Herrera Confidential in Dubai and prove that they are a fashionable force to be reckoned with. We meet the stylish duo to find out just how the mother and daughter dynamic really plays out at The House of Herrera.

By Natalie Trevis

All images courtesy of Carolina Herrera.

Affair

When you meet a Herrera you can be assured of

Fragrance takes both women down a path that

three things: Impeccable manners, timeless style

always leads back to family. Our sense of smell

and a simmering creativity that is vast enough to

is the one so often intertwined with our memories

have spawned a billion dollar empire that spans

and particular perfumes remind both of their

ready to wear, bridal, leather goods, jewellery

mothers. ‘I think the tuberose was very much

and, of course, the most luxurious of fragrances.

an ode to my mother,’ muses de Báez. ‘My first

Warm and convivial from the moment I sit down

smells were the jasmine and tuberose oils that

and as perfectly coiffed as one might expect.

she used to make.’ For Carolina, those particular

Carolina Herrera is dressed in her signature

notes evoke memories of her own mother and her

look: A white monogrammed shirt (so pristinely

socialite grandmother, who introduced Herrera

pressed as to be otherworldly), an A-line skirt and

to the world of fashion growing up in Caracas,

plum lipstick – the Bobbi Brown shade is named

Venzuela, taking her to shows at Balenciaga and

Carolina in her honour. And her upright posture,

teaching her the art of style.

with ankles neatly crossed, has me instantly sitting

‘I think my first memory of a fragrance was

straighter. Daughter Carolina Herrera de Báez has

when I was quite young. I used to smell what my

an easy poise and a more bohemian note to her

grandmother used to use that was a very old one,

style, chatting about a polka dot dress they’d

Fleur de Rocaille it was called,’ says Carolina,

seen together at a designer’s boutique in Dubai

recounting a story of following a woman down the

the day before. As raven-haired as her mother

streets of New York to ask if she was wearing the

is blonde, de Báez possesses a delicate bone

scent. ‘It was the first scent that I smelled. The

structure that is unmistakably Herrera. It’s all about

other one that always had jasmine or tuberose in

the fragrances today – de Báez never wears her

it was Joy by Jean Patou, which my mother used

mother’s signature scent of tuberose she tells me

to use. My perfumes will always have a little bit of

with a smile as she jokingly taps her shoulder,

those white flowers.’ After laughingly disagreeing

‘Because it’s like I have her here.’

about whether perfume should be applied liberally

Scent is a huge part of the Herrera legacy. The first, named Carolina Herrera, was launched in 1988 and has survived as a classic fragrance (no mean feat in the current celebrity-driven fragrance market) for more than 25 years. Now, the six scents and four oils that make up the Herrera Confidential collection have their own DNA – they are designed to be mixed and personalised to create a unique perfume. Inspired by a gift of Oud, which de Báez was given a long time ago, the collection meets a captive audience at its debut in Dubai. The Middle East is already a natural home for the label’s modern sartorial elegance: House of Herrera could almost stake a claim as the region’s adoptive heritage brand. ‘There’s nothing like the Middle East for perfumes’, says de Báez. ‘When we designed the collection I had it very much in mind that the place we would launch would be the place that knows the most about perfumes.’ Of course the House did not stop with the royal jewel-toned fragrances. Carolina designed a collection of gowns and dresses to accompany the perfumes. As I ask how the spirit of the fragrances infuses the designs, Carolina doesn’t quite hear and, in the way only a daughter can, de Báez shouts affectionately, ‘There’s clothes!’ ‘Ah, yes, I designed a dress for each of the bottles’, Carolina explains. ‘It’s very easy because perfumes and fashion come very closely together. It’s part of the life of a woman and I always say that fragrance is the invisible accessory that a woman can wear. They are always connected. I got inspiration from the beautiful colours of the bottles and the scents that are unique. Each dress has a definition.’

Herrera Confidential, a collection of six fragrances and four pure oils

Carolina Herrera in front of her portrait by Andy Warhol

(Carolina’s method) or gently misted in the air, the

family. ‘When we are together and we are not

debate brings them back to family matters. ‘You

working we never talk about work,’ she notes.

know what’s so funny?’ de Báez recalls, looking

Normality is something the pair deliberately seek

at her mother. ‘You guessed every time I was

out and they are relaxed when chatting about how

pregnant, you knew it because of the perfume.

Herrera delights the grandchildren with no-rules

I would be like, “You’re wearing too much!” and

sleepovers in Madrid where late nights, popcorn

she’s like, “You’re pregnant again!”’

and cola are all encouraged. ‘They are very close

Herrera has a knack for bringing everything

to me… I let them watch television until two in the

back to the woman. She tells me that the right

morning,’ she laughs. ‘And then I send them back

perfume is all about a woman’s skin, that success

to the house to be educated!’

in the fragrance world only comes when a scent

Carolina Herrera is a mother, a creative, and an

becomes a classic in a woman’s beauty arsenal

icon for those seeking beauty in fashion, fragrance

and that it’s impossible to choose her must-have

and a refined way of living. It’s a sensibility she

fashion essentials. ‘It’s a very feminine instinct,

has passed on to her daughter, who embodies

not to only have three things that you like. It’s not

the brand’s values for the next generation of

enough! You go out to buy a pair of shoes, you

loyal Herrera customers. Wherever in the world

end up with an evening gown because it looks

the formidable House of Herrera takes them,

beautiful hanging in your closet and you don’t

and whether its fragrance, fashion or business

know why you bought it. Right?’ Herrera thinks

at stake, it’s clear that family will always come

big but starts from the ground up. It’s undoubtedly

first. There’s always something to be discovered

this personal touch that inspires so much loyalty in

– and shared - just around the corner. ‘I think

her clients. From dressing Renée Zellweger on the

it’s fantastic to be alive,’ Carolina laughs. ‘You

red carpet, to Olivia Palermo at her wedding and

shouldn’t be bored ever. There are so many things

actress Zhang Ziyi at the Met Gala in a custom-

in life, so many things to do, to see. That’s a

made ivory mikado gown, Herrera combines the

word that shouldn’t be in anybody’s conversation.’

present and the future in her designs, leaving the past firmly in the history books. ‘I think fashion should think about the future. The past has been copied so much and there is such a repetition of ideas,’ she says in her no-nonsense manner. ‘Even if you do it in a different way then we need to think about the future. How is it going to look? I don’t want to see the past. What for? It’s already done.’ The scents in the Herrera Confidential collection are as varied as the women the House dresses. The six fragrances, Herrera Tuberose, Burning Rose, Nightfall Patchouli, Oud Couture, Neroli Bohème and Amber Desire, burst with varied notes from oud to florals, patchouli and even cinnamon. Concentrated oils in rose, oud, musk and sandalwood infuse the skin with an intense single scent before a perfume is layered on top. ‘Each one is inspired,’ says de Báez. ‘I think the Neroli is very fresh and day, and then the Burning Rose is the sensual, moody one. Amber for me is night and fun.’ Herrera is taken with the idea that the fragrances embrace the individuality of every woman. ‘You create your own smell,’ she says. ‘That’s very important. It’s like fashion, creating your own look.’ The relationship between de Báez and Herrera is natural, fun-filled and built on a mutual creative respect. Is it easy to work together? ‘The good thing is that we live in different countries!’ laughs de Báez, who lives in Madrid with her husband and three children, ‘So it’s not like we are on top of each other when we do this. It’s sort of like an interchange of ideas. We work in parallel but together. Everything goes through her at the end.’ But it’s not all work and no play for this fashion

A sketch of the opulent gown designed to accompany the Burning Rose fragrance

M OJEH W o m a n

Bianca Brandolini d’Adda and Angelo Ruggeri

Unconventional

At t r ac t i o n Bianca Brandolini d’Adda is a woman of juxtapose. On one hand the Italian heiress is stylish, elegant and persuasive – everything you’d expect – and on the other she is the type of beauty that fits no mould, nor would ever want to.

make it entirely her own. Interchangeable and unique. D’Adda carries just as much panache sat front row at Dolce & Gabbana adorning one of their Sicilian inspired lace dresses as she does shopping in Milan wearing relaxed denim and a seasonal cape. ‘You can decide what kind of woman you embody from day to day. A woman defines herself by what she wears and how she wears it,’ she offers. Away from runway shows and fashion capitals, d’Adda is recognisable by her long locks, one of many distinct and goddesslike features, deeply golden hued, thick, bouncy and lightly waved. Over the years

‘I don’t follow the tendencies of the season,’

her beauty has remained natural and

d’Adda opens with when we first meet. ‘Of

unassuming. That, along with her svelte

course, the last fashion shows inspire me

model figure and long lean legs, has meant

and I am very lucky to be able to wear very

she’s constantly looked towards for the latest

talented designers clothes but I think I am

in shoe trends whether out walking her dog

very “less is more”.’ That’s what makes the

in her home town or meandering down the

natural, model-like beauty more than just

golden shores of St.Tropez. This season

another young heiress. She has an innate

she has, unsurprisingly, attracted Sergio

ability to adopt a style, be it from this season’s

Rossi’s design and collection director Angelo

runway or her mother’s vintage collection, and

Ruggeri. ‘Bianca was the perfect muse

for this collection. She is a beauty icon, a confident woman who skilfully blends strength and grace,’ says Ruggeri, ‘I was fascinated by her charismatic allure that is captivating but never conventional.’ Inspired by her, the collection plays with fascinating contrasts by blending femininity with modernity expressed through architectural silhouettes and soft colour schemes and embellishments. ‘Angelo has always told me that I’m very feminine with a tomboy side,’ explains d’Adda. ‘So we decided to create a black and white collection where the flat shoes can be worn in the evening and the shoes with heels can be worn through the day. A collection without clichés.’ D’Adda is anything but a cliché. Having grown up the daughter of Brazilian countess Georgina Brandolini d’Adda and Count Ruy, Italian financier and descendent of Venetian aristocracy, she was surrounded by beautiful things, affluent people and a surplus of opportunity. ‘I had the chance to grow up

in this environment while remaining very protected. The first thing I learnt certainly came as I watched my mother getting dressed to go out… Remaining yourself, wear what you enjoy and what you really like or makes you feel good,’ says the heiress. Rules she follows to an exemplary example as she sits front row with fellow influencers and friends such as Olivia Palermo and boyfriend Lapo Elkann, heir to the Fiat throne. ‘Whether they may be a part of the fashion world or not, who highlights the best for me are those that make me laugh and inspire me,’ she says. Whether wearing a Haute Couture Valentino gown or a Chanel two-piece tweed suit, Bianca exudes an air of effortlessness, carrying the sophistication and elegance of a traditional aristocrat girl, while bountiful in her unpretentious and humble nature. ‘Everything inspires me, a book, a piece of music that I’m listening to on loop, people in the street, an exhibition, colours, my creative friends, who always amaze me through the way they’re able to rejuvenate their thoughts all the time,’

taste which is still very personal to her.’

Precise and professional, Bianca is perfectly conscious about what a modern and cool girl wants today, she paid a lot of attention to the fit and quality of each shoe.

‘This collection totally reflects the personality of Bianca: strong and delicate, classic and modern, wearable and cool at the same time,’ says Ruggeri. ‘Precise and professional, Bianca is perfectly conscious about what a modern and cool girl wants today, she paid a lot of attention to the fit and quality of

she says. ‘I just came back from travelling

each shoe.’ Masculine styles such as loafers

around Sri Lanka with friends and arrived

and monk straps make an appearance but

back with plenty of new ideas!’ Not your

even where heels and over the knee boots

average destination for a girl who grew up

are involved comfort still takes precedence,

on an Italian estate.

a fundamental pillar for the design house

Like her daughter, Bianca’s mother was

and both designers on this collection. ‘We

herself a muse having famously sat for

immediately thought about comfort and

many designers including the now-family

wanted all women, whatever their age or

friend Valentino. When asked what has

style, to recognise themselves,’ adds d’Adda.

had the biggest influence on her personal

Comfortable, creative and never without

style, considering the abundance of ateliers

character: three defining features for both

and couturiers she’s had access to along

the collection and the inspiration behind it. ‘I

the years, the answer is again down to

am very honoured to inspire designers,’ said

earth. ‘I think its my grandmother, the

Bianca. ‘I think that when you inspire people,

way she mixes colours and materials until

there is a true relationship between those

today. She has an advanced and modern

two people and they inspire one another.’

Up and away

F a sh io n b a n q ue t

Valentino

Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t leave your style on the ground when you take to the skies. Airport chic is all about effortlessness and comfort but without a hint of track pants in sight. Simple shades and relaxed shapes are a sartorial match made in heaven while Sama Eyewearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sunglasses are a must-have for hiding any signs of jet lag.

Power Play

DSQUARED2

Bring an androgynous feel to your summer office wardrobe, with statement suits and two-pieces. Perfect if you are escaping to cooler climes for the season, a light jacket will elevate any look, whether with or without its matching counterpart. A stylish take on wearing the trousers.

Indian Summer

Diane von Furstenberg

As the mercury rises and summer goes into full swing, take inspiration from the high temperatures. Blancpain’s Ganesh watch is a literal take on the Indian summer, whilst Chloé’s macramé blouse provides a more subtle, bohemian twist. Glimmers of gold add an eternally luxe look, while perfectly offsetting a tan.

Fa sh i o n T r ends

A double-breasted jacket, wide-leg trousers and matching overcoat are a firered dream at Max Mara.

Press Refresh The pre-Fall 2015 collections invite us in on some transitional style secrets as we contemplate our sartorial journey from summer to winter. Shearling is back at the top of the pile when it comes to outerwear choices, the shaggier the better. Colour coordination reaches new heights, and addressing your inner tomboy is de rigueur. Pick a preFall trend from our edit and take a little step into autumn. 1

Gucci takes a break from the Pantone colour of the year, Marsala, that prevails elsewhere in its pre-Fall collection (Frida Giannini’s last for the house) and opts for sleek separates in a deep orange.

Diane von Furstenberg combines head-totoe florals in navy and cream in the form of pristine suiting with a twist.

Peter Dundas ensures that the Emilio Pucci woman will be noticed in multicoloured stripes and the top of the season, the tunic.

1. MAX MARA | 2. GUCCI | 3. DIANE VON FURSTENBERG | 4. EMILIO PUCCI | 5. BOTTEGA VENETA

Bottega Veneta’s tangerine leather is transitional in colour and fabric. Ideal for those cool autumn days.

twin set Rebellions always come full circle. Now that we are experts at clashing prints, defying codes about matching shoes with handbags and playing with colour block combinations that make the eyes water, pre-Fall invites us to, once again, think head-to-toe. Tomas Maier at Bottega Veneta tackles two trends at once leather and mono-colour – in the form of a summer leather skirt suit in tangerine, its subtle panelling and neat proportions ensuring that that the look remains understated rather than cloying. Emilio Pucci effects the trend in a vertical stripe, the multicoloured streaks of taupe and bubble gum pink on a longsleeved tunic and moderate flares offering an elongated take on the continuing seventies silhouettes. Play the game for pre-Fall: It’s all about the match.

Dark Ages Eveningwear evolves from floral-heavy bohemia into something a little darker. A high waist and full skirt flatters every form, while sedate beading and meandering floral appliqué add depth to the darkness. Valentino’s stars and galaxies take us to the moon and back and Alexander McQueen’s über-cinched 19th century dress coat evokes a historical beauty that is perfect for evening adventures. 4 1. ALEXANDER MCQUEEN | 2. VALENTINO | 3. ROCHAS | 4. MICHAEL KORS

Girl Meets Boy Fashion and androgyny have journeyed hand-in-hand since Saint Laurent’s Le Smoking suit set a generation free from the confines of gender-defined dressing. The pre-Fall collections only elevate the fashion world’s love of all clothes masculine. What could be simpler than a black crew neck jumper over a crisp white shirt, all tucked into pleat-front trousers? The answer is nothing and yet in Giorgio Armani’s hands, everything. The look is cut in such a way that boy meets girl and girl falls for exquisite tailoring without compromising femininity. With a more refined touch than the slouchy blazers and utilitarian jumpsuits that marched the SS15 runways, the tomboy look for pre-Fall is largely monochromatic and chimes more with a sense of simplicity than overt masculinity. Narciso Rodriguez defines the movement, like Armani, with simple silhouettes – a cautious V-neck and wide-leg trouser – that favour form over fantasy.

1. GIORGIO ARMANI | 2. BALENCIAGA | 3. CHANEL | 4. NARCISO RODRIGUEZ

Beyond Beige Beige is no longer for blending in. The palest sand tone graduates through stone and into buff for pre-Fall, providing a cleansing palette of minimalism that is resplendent on every style of coat, jacket and jumpsuit.

54 CHLOÉ

Patch Work The combination of patchwork shearling and Mongolian fur in Clare Waight Keller’s glorious cape-like coat for Chloé more than hints at a louche romanticism of past bohemian eras. Marianne Faithfull shrouded in an oversized fur, with kohl-rimmed eyes peeking out, or a latter day Kate Moss, bundled in a shaggy, belted gilet. This piece signals a departure from the sweet girliness of Chloé’s spring/ summer incarnation. Layer over a paisley slip dress or loose trousers for full bohemian immersion and a style that has both a youthful inflection and a devil-may-care attitude.

Hunting, hiking and horseback riding. Altuzarra tapped into all things British with a pre-Fall collection that added a decidedly Anglo-French twist to animal print. Traditional leopard roared from shift dresses and pencil skirts, while this artistic take on a utility jacket abstracts the print for a subtle dose of animal magic.

Not known for a sports-inspired aesthetic, Versace’s pre-Fall collection takes us on an athletic ride nonetheless, where bold colours rule, animal prints unite with complex houndstooth and tech fabrics give swinging skirts a neat strength.

Lanvin’s graphic print in tones of grey fuses effortlessly with the soft drape of a cascading skirt. Paired with a feather embellished t-shirt, Alber Elbaz brings together high and (luxe) low to encapsulate the easy mode of dressing that pre-Fall is all about.

1. ALTUZARRA | 2. VERSACE | 3. LANVIN | 4. MAX MARA

Max Mara took a more literal approach to the big cat, with a fierce feline face adorning belted outerwear. Taking us back to Christopher Kane’s SS09 gorilla motifs or Givenchy’s pre-fall 2012 barking Rottweiler, Max Mara’s big cats strike a tasteful note across elegantly tailored and luxurious fabrics.

Wild Things Animal print roars back into our wardrobes, but this time in an abstract form that opts for subtlety over ostentation.

D e sig n er I nter vie w

Architecture of

Design Zaid Affas is offering women a new definition of luxury. We sit down with the LA-based designer to find out more about starting his own label, his design philosophy and the woman that inspires him.

A monochromatic palette highlights exaggerated, dynamic silhouettes – an oversized funnel neck or broad shoulder – while unexpected flashes of silver and burnt gold provide a shimmering highlight: Zaid Affas’ AW15 collection is pure modern luxury for a bold, confident woman. ‘She’s not looking for attention, she demands attention, it just happens. It’s a woman with confidence, a strong woman… It’s a woman who desires luxury, but real luxury, not to show people but for herself.’ These are clothes with longevity – a new and elevated version of the wardrobe essential. Affas is crystal clear on the independent, intellectual woman who is his muse. From his studio in LA, with daylight streaming in through the industrial windows behind him, he is on a creative mission to bring his version of softly Filtering throughout Affas’ collection of structured, minimalist clothing is a focus on the delight of line, form and silhouette over embellishment or thematic concepts (it’s not about ‘Maharajah mixed with seventies clubbing’ he tells us with a smile). AW15, his third collection, bursts with twisted tailoring – a sharp-shouldered coat reveals delicate gathering at the back, while half caped sleeves add an origami-like amplification at the elbows of sleek outerwear. Calm and clean, funnel necklines (countered here and there by extreme Metallics thread their way through the AW15 collection

plunges) and subtle draping have woven their way through Zaid’s designs since his debut. Every piece could make a seamless transition into your wardrobe right this instant. ‘I’ve always wanted to do something in the arts, but I was originally into architecture. I went to Central Saint Martins to do painting and sculpture,’ he reveals. Affas found himself interacting with students from other disciplines, working collaboratively on fashion

Designer Zaid Affas Images courtesy of Zaid Affas. Profile image by Djeneba Aduayom. AW15 look book images by Jiro Schneider.

spoken luxury to the party.

projects, and ultimately switched disciplines. ‘It’s nice because you get exposed to another medium and I thought, “Wow, that’s also for me.”’ A life in design always beckoned thanks to his father, an architect from Iraq who allowed the young Zaid to accompany him to work to watch and learn, and his mother, a tastemaker in all things creative. ‘My mother always really had discipline in how to dress and how to present herself. To be elegant and chic was really important to her and that has stuck with me’, says Affas, who was born in Kuwait and spent the latter part of his childhood in London. Stints at Ralph Lauren, BCBG Max Azria and Ports 1961 in the US followed, giving Affas a full-circle insight into the myriad world of running a fashion label. ‘I think for any designer, no matter how conceptual you are or how commercial, understanding branding and how to build an image is really important… how to make a customer get excited and feel they want to buy into something.’ Measured and with all the benefit of his hard-won experience, Affas’ line emerges virtually fully formed – he has navigated many of the traps of inconsistency and conflicting ideas that he identifies as being all too easy for rising designers to fall into. Patience is truly a virtue and by biding his time Affas has discovered his own voice as a designer, while recognising that slow and steady growth, as a new brand, is key. Creatively, his roots are never far from the surface – purity of design and consistency without complacency, remain a driving force behind Affas’ work. ‘I am deliberately trying to seek out a signature but I do want it to develop… I am still very influenced by architecture and materials and construction. I wanted to go to the basics of design.’ Of course the Middle East remains infinitely relevant for Affas too. ‘As an Arabic designer, this is my aesthetic. I think historically a lot of people view Middle Eastern designers as very Middle Eastern in their approach to design, lots of gowns and embellishments, but I don’t think that’s the case any more… People These clothes might be our new essentials but they are anything but simplistic. Eloquent and sophisticated and a little futuristic, Affas has tapped into the luxury mind set we all aspire to, which values timeless quality over quantity. A lot of planning, a dash of risk and a generous helping of old-school creativity make Zaid Affas one to watch. ‘Of course you have to work and make it happen but you can’t be afraid to try. Ever. That’s the high.’

Exaggerated proportions and futuristic textiles for AW15

are recognising this kind of design.’

f a sh i o n m o m en t

Denim Dream Collections as diverse as Gucci, Christophe Lemaire and Kenzo have recently explored a luxe take on that most democratic of textiles: denim. Rekindling fashionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s enduring love for the workaday blue jean and much, much more. Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re living the denim dream. By Natalie Trevis

If the passing of fashion time can be measured in the hours and minutes of trends, the length of hemlines and column inches, a pair of jeans tells the story instantly. Flared and high waisted? Seventies excess. Low-slung boot cut? Nineties grunge. Skinnies? Noughties – and seemingly forevermore. Denim history marches ever onwards. Foretelling the fashion future, the pre-Fall collections offer wearable clothes for a seamless transition into the coming season and, this time, denim was the fabric of choice. An indigo trench coat at McQueen, saturated-wash structured culottes at Derek Lam and refined, trouser-cut jeans at Fendi have us graduating from the sweet bohemia of spring/summer 2015. Yves Saint Laurent once said that he wished he had invented blue jeans, ‘the most spectacular, the most practical, the most relaxed and nonchalant. They have expression, modesty, sex appeal, simplicity – all I hope for in my clothes.’ Deeply embedded in popular culture, denim invokes iconic images that seem as ingrained in us as our own memories. Sixties bombshell Brigitte Bardot in slim fitting angle-grazers in A Very Private Affair, or Farrah Fawcett, a decade later, in denim flares and Nikes navigating a speeding skateboard in Charlie’s Angels. A tomboyish Lauren Hutton in high-waisters in her supermodel days, Marlon Brando as an outlaw biker in The Wild Ones, James Dean in everything. Denim bridges time, culture and class. Entire photo shoots have been created around the splendour of a single cotton fabric. ‘Blue jeans are the most beautiful things since the gondola,’ Diana Vreeland mused. We think she was probably right.

Denim dungarees are having a moment and are elevated by the complex textures of pre-Fall shearling

There’s a piece of denim to define each era since the creation of the first pair of humble blue jeans by Latvian tailor Jacob Davis

The Open Road, photographed by Riccardo Vimercati, MOJEH Issue 19

Street style images courtesy of IMAXtree.

in 1871. Ever since, denim has extended its reach far beyond jeans but has always

jeans at the age of 93, although still refuses

continued to do double duty – combining

to pay more than $15 for them. ‘In the old

functional durability with our endless need

days, you could go to Tunisia and get jeans

for of-the-moment pieces executed in the

directly from the people who were making

sturdy twill that never, ever goes out of

them for Pierre Cardin,’ she recollected in an

style. ‘I think versatility is the main reason

interview in 2010. We can all recall a favourite

denim is so beloved,’ says California-based

denim memory. What’s peering out at you

stylist Jennifer Choy. ‘It may have started

from a faded photograph in a shoebox long

out as just a utilitarian piece of clothing for

forgotten? Acid-wash tapered jeans during an

workers but it didn’t take long for people to

eighties Madonna phase? Patchwork baggy

discover denim’s fashion potential. I can’t

boyfriend jeans with flannel shirts as a nineties’

think of another type of fabric that suits the

teenager? Printed capri jeans or a boxy Levi’s

construction yard and the runways of New

denim jacket (badges optional but style

York and Paris fashion week equally.’

guaranteed)? There can be no other genre

It’s a denim democracy and we’re all in charge.

of clothing that invites such sweet nostalgia.

Jean sizes start at newborn and there’s no

Claire Lampert and Stacy Daily of denim label

longer an age at which wearing them becomes

B Sides appreciate the circular history of jeans,

inappropriate. Relentlessly fashionable Iris

creating unconventional limited run designs

Apfel continues to rock pencil slim blue

that are re-purposed from vintage denim found

60 that toughens up a sweetly feminine sundress, denim’s codes are undeniable. James Dean famously donned a pair of Lee 101 Riders as Jim Stark in Rebel Without a Cause in 1955. Eye catchingly blue – the denim was dip-dyed to make it stand out onscreen – Stark’s leather jacket, white t-shirt and blue jeans created a uniform for a new kind of American rebel. Likewise, conjure a picture in a moment: Marilyn Monroe lounging on the set of The Misfits in 1961 in Levi’s 501s complete with denim Lee Storm Rider jacket, Jane Birkin in the creative’s uniform of high-waisted jeans and Breton top or Catherine Bach as the original Daisy Duke of the Dukes of Hazzard, who kick-started the trend for daringly micro cutoffs, her legs insured for a cool $1million. The genesis of denim as a fashion item arrived rapidly and with a resonance that stands the test of time. Take any Calvin Klein Jeans campaign. Instantly evocative, the black and white images have barely changed for decades – the only thing on rotation is the young, hot model, actor or icon of the day smouldering out at us. ‘You want to know what comes between me and my Calvins?’ a 15-year-old Brooke Shields asked the world, ‘Nothing.’ Kate Moss took up the mantle alongside a muscular Mark Wahlberg, a look since recreated by a new crop of Californian Insta-ready models sporting low-slung jeans to reveal a CK waistband. The brand has eternally linked its denim with youth, vitality and sex appeal. Denim has a realism and authenticity that comes from its roots as work wear: Cowboys and farmers meet artists, editors and models in their quest for the perfect denim clothing. Alexa Chung has taken matters into her own hands by designing a 21-piece collection for AG Jeans, heavily infused with nineties teen in America. The mix and match styles, from

spirit. The pieces have an innocent simplicity

patchwork jeans to broken-in denim Bermudas

about them in referencing the past and

and baggy dungarees, are irreverent and

connect with the tongue-in-cheek grandma

carefree. ‘Denim gets better with age,’ says

chic currently dominating the runways. ‘A

Claire. ‘It’s effortlessly classic. There’s a pair

lot of it is stuff from my childhood, like the

of jeans for everyone and once you feel the fit

button-up skirt and overalls,’ Chung told

you’re hooked.’ Vintage denim works, because

Style.com. ‘They’re all quite childish things.

although denim trends date at lightning speed

I was looking at motorbike gangs, worn-in

they do so in a familiar, unthreatening way –

denim, the type of denim that men manage

we’ve all worn jeans for so long that we can

to attain.’ Even crooning along to Stevie

smile fondly at our style missteps along the

Nicks’ Blue Denim in a Gia Coppola-directed

way. Embracing the latest reincarnation of the

video to promote the collaboration, Alexa

‘mom’ jean in all its frumpiness, for example,

hits a witty, indie note that eschews cool in

empowers rather than diminishes the wearer.

favour of kitsch.

Denim encapsulates a host of cultural codes

Denim Dudes by Amy Leverton suggests

that require no explanation when they reemerge

that around 50 percent of the world is

in an updated design. That is what makes

wearing a pair of jeans at any one time and

denim so powerful. Whether it’s a masculine

estimates the denim market to be worth

all-American pair of jeans or a denim jacket

more than $75billion. The luxury market has

The Open Road, photographed by Riccardo Vimercati, MOJEH Issue 19

Cowboys and farmers meet artists, editors and models in their quest for the perfect pair of jeans.

62 The pre-Fall collections continue the reinvention with a ladylike sojourn into denim tea dresses and trouser suits.

Denim isn’t confined to jeans and takes an experimental twist in patchworked outerwear

embraced denim as a means of tapping into and hastening the casualisation of high fashion. The consumer wants, no, needs, clothes that can take her from breakfast to board meeting to cocktails, and versatile items like denim, which can be elevated or downplayed on a whim, are high on her list. Nostalgia and denim collided in a big way for SS15, manifesting primarily in the rise of the seventies flared jean. Louis Vuitton’s indigo skinny kick jeans, navy blazer and tan boots create a bourgeois look that is office wear 2.0. ‘My favourite denim look right now is so classic and easy to make work,’ says Jennifer Choy. ‘I always feel stylish when I’m wearing a pair of wide leg denim trousers paired with a crisp white button up shirt and black pumps with a little texture like horsehair or suede.’ Gucci, Prada and Stella McCartney also

turned the familiar into something new, with pinafore dresses, buttoned A-line skirts (a universally loved look that has spawned a thousand high street copies), duster coats and head-to-toe denim tailoring making a luxe case for the unassuming fabric. Dolce & Gabbana liberally sprinkled rolled-up boyfriend jeans with its signature baroque crystals while at the opposite end of the spectrum Kenzo worked pale blue chambray into swaggering palazzo pants and masculine extra-large shirts in a play on proportions that took denim into a more experimental arena. Christophe Lemaire joined the denim deluxe party, a belted strapless top with dramatic volume cascading over a matching midi-skirt with confident elegance. This avant-garde approach to denim isn’t new but is always greeted with excitement as the next stage in denim’s journey. Jean Paul Gaultier worked with denim as if it were silk in his spring 2010 couture collection, draping it and embellishing it with abandon in an Aztecinspired whirlwind. Maison Margiela elevated denim to couture status too, in an upcycled collection of metallic wrappers and Deco-era embroideries in which a pair of faded blue jeans subverted couture norms from underneath a delicate sheath dress. Even Chanel dallied with the softest of couture denim skinnies for spring 2011, layered under chiffon sashes and handworked tunics. There are no longer any limits to denim’s range. More recently, patchwork madness reigned during SS14, when Junya Watanabe’s quilted floral print jeans, complete with black tassel trim, adorned every fashion forward street styler and editor from Taylor Tomasi Hill onwards. Playful or serious, the rest of an outfit can remain muted when the

Distressed jeans and a white t-shirt always strike a playful and nonchalant tone

denim is doing all the talking. ‘Always style with a shirt tucked in. At least a side-tuck,’ advises

Fashion’s Fearless Season, photographed by Federica Putelli, MOJEH Issue 25

Claire. The pre-Fall collections continue the reinvention with a ladylike sojourn into denim

proportional to the joy of finding a jean for

tea dresses and trouser suits in the hands of

life. ‘Every time I find a pair of jeans that fits

Carolina Herrera and Monique Lhuillier and

me perfectly, it’s like a life altering moment for

via shearling-lined denim jackets at Valentino

me,’ notes Jennifer. ‘There’s nothing like trying

(styled with the season’s inevitable culottes).

on a pair of jeans that perfectly hug your butt,

The evolution continues.

elongate your legs and hit your waist in the

Whether luxury, high street or cult Japanese

most flattering spot.’

denim label, fit is everything. Some denim

Denim is here to stay, from the vintage market

is easy – a boyish shirt, a neat jacket or

to the luxury runway. It can be reinvented any

form-skimming babydoll dress. But finding

which way, to mean whatever you want it to:

a pair of jeans that contours perfectly to

edgy biker chick, femme fatale, rock siren,

your body in a sea of endless choice is a

Upper East Side girl about town, off-duty

flash of fashion nirvana. Famously tricky to

model. You are what you wear. With collections

shop for, particularly as the available cuts,

past and present bringing a novelty to the

washes and styles continue to expand, the

genre that encapsulates the spirit of the fabric,

hours spent in changing rooms trying on every

denim will always represent much more than

conceivable style create a familiar ritual that

an attitude. As Claire Lampert attests, denim

could never be replaced by the easy click of an

continues to get better with age. ‘It’s like no

online purchase. The time invested is always

other piece of clothing you’ve ever worn.’

W o m a n o f S ty le

Work of Art

Designer Misha Nonoo

Inspired by contemporary art and strong women, Misha Nonoo is a designer who wants to make her exquisitely-tailored designs a familiar friend in the wardrobe of every woman. Born in Bahrain to an Iraqi father and English mother, raised in London and with all the entrepreneurial spirit of a New Yorker, her global outlook brings a unique modernity to her designs. Part of the CFDA Fashion Incubator program and with fans from Sarah Jessica Parker to Gwyneth Paltrow, we chat with New York-based Misha to find out just what drives her creativity.

Misha Nonoo presents her AW15 collection in New York to the sounds of a live string ensemble

You started out in tailoring, how is that reflected in your designs? To me, fit is the most important design detail, which is why I apprenticed at a local atelier in the garment district before I started my own label. Much of my tailoring employs the British ‘straight shoulder’, making a woman look strong and poised whilst exuding a faintly masculine essence that is juxtaposed by the feminine curve of a woman’s body. Are you inspired by tailoring when it comes to your own wardrobe? The idea of tailoring and designing pieces that are intended to last an eternity has always left an impact and has inspired my wardrobe sensibilities as well as my brand today. I believe that proper tailoring can make a woman’s life easier – a familiar friend in her wardrobe, which she can always rely on. Are your designs influenced at all by your Bahraini heritage? Certainly. Growing up in Bahrain, my parents routinely took me to the Arabian souks, exposing me to a world of colours. I infuse that appreciation of colour and beautiful fabrics with each of my collections, particularly in the prints. Your collections are often inspired by art, what does art mean to you personally? Contemporary art is a consistent source of inspiration for each collection that I design. When I am not designing I am exploring the

Artist Jarno Kettunen recreates one of the AW15 designs backstage at the show

art world, I often visit artist studios, galleries and fairs. Similar to the woman I design for, I am culturally curious. Contemporary art leads

should be. I would say I have always had a uniform that marries

me to new experiences and discoveries.

empowerment with ease, which is what I design for my woman. My designs are for the successful woman that strives to have it all, that’s

You collaborated with artist Dustin Yellin for your SS15 collection,

why my pieces are versatile – they can be worn anywhere from the

how did the collaboration come about?

office to a cocktail party or art opening. For my AW15 collection I

I met Dustin in Aspen three years ago and was immediately drawn to

styled looks with different cotton shirting elements, layering these

his work and unique perspective, as well as the femininity represented

pieces under dresses, skirts, and knitwear. These pieces make getting

in his glass collages. I wanted to work with him specifically, as his

dressed in the morning fun and easy.

All images courtesy of Misha Nonoo. Backstage photography by Shawn Brackbill.

work illustrates a romantic tension and subtle details, which appeal to the women and the world I envision. It has been a dream come

How does your style change during the summer?

true working directly with a highly respected contemporary artist such

I wear a lot of jumpsuits. I love them because they are tailored

as Dustin and sharing this experience with my woman.

and feminine.

What’s the defining feature of your label?

What’s the best advice you have ever received?

Classic crisp tailoring, sheer feminine touches and contemporary art.

There are no shortcuts to any place worth going. Be prepared to work long hours. Listen to your passion and do what you love. Try

What has been your most memorable fashion moment?

to work for a small company where you will have the opportunity

Collaborating with Dustin Yellin for the SS15 collection was a very

to wear many hats and try various different roles in order to fully

memorable experience, especially when he walked down the runway

understand where your strengths lie.

in one of my designs. For my AW15 collection, I collaborated with an incredible organisation named Decoda, they are an affiliate ensemble

Is there an inspiring book, artwork or movie to which you

of Carnegie Hall. We worked together to compose the runway music,

always return?

which was performed by a live string ensemble.

I love reading biographies in my spare time – especially those of powerful women in history. Right now I am really inspired by themes

Who has influenced your style most over the years?

of individuality, self-expression and perception as seen in Laurie

Diana Vreeland. Dasha Zhukova. My mother.

Simmons’ How We See exhibition in New York City.

How long did it take you to define your personal style?

Do you have a favourite place to travel to in the Middle East?

My motto is life is not easy, but getting dressed every morning

Bahrain because it is where I grew up.

S t yl e I ns ider

Tamara Al Gabbani photographed by Sarvenaz Hashtroudi at Frioul Dubai. she wears a piece from her own collection.

Stylish Life

Tamara Al Gabbani began her career by demystifying the traditional stigma attached to young Arabic girls working on TV. Last year she fronted a regional campaign for DKNY, which quickly made its name internationally and now she heads a design house whose preview show attracted 800 guests. From modelling to TV presenting, and now designer to her own clothing line, this regional talent has turned her hand to many things, and excelled at each. Now she talks to MOJEH about diving head first into the things you most fear and the inspiring women around her.

You started your career in the Middle East as a presenter on local TV, how did friends and family react? It was shock, complete shock. There is so much stigma surrounding people working in television, but you set the standards for yourself. So I made a career out of it. I did it for about four years and eventually I was producing my own show. What inspires you? For me it can be a moment, it can be an emotion, it can just be

As designer, do you feel like you’ve settled into a career now?

seeing the way the sunlight hits someone walking past. Ultimately

I don’t think that I will ever be one-dimensional, more like

it is the beauty of a woman that inspires me when designing.

three-dimensional! Presenter roles always come back to me and when I feel passionate enough I love dipping my toes back

How do you envision women?

in. I prefer juggling.

I believe in them as goddesses, special and beautiful, regardless of their origin, or the colour of their skin or their size. Every woman

Tell us about one of your most cherished fashion moments?

has something that is so beautiful about her. We’re givers of life,

DKNY decided to do a collection for the Middle East, brought Yalda

that in itself is a godly attribute. I want them to feel even more

Golsharifi and I on board and asked me to style the collection and

empowered when they wear my clothes.

then model it. It was supposed to be for the region but it went global overnight as it was the first time that the American brand

When did you decide to design?

had used an Arabian face and taken our part of the world and

I think I was probably about five! My mother actually had an atelier

celebrated it in a beautiful way. It was a cherished moment for

when I was very young here in Dubai so it was just a part of my

me because I represented the region in a positive way. It was all

life. And back then we didn’t have shops, there were no malls, so I

about unity and not about hatred or discrimination.

learnt the craft and designed my own dresses for special occasions. Do you remember how you felt when launching your Where did you go to shop then?

own brand?

We’d spend summers in London and Marbella and shop for the year!

When you think of the scariest thing that can happen, you put your name onto it, you put everything you have into it, you plan

Are you are critic of your own work?

everything up until the day that you launch and you don’t know

Yes! I’m terrible, it’s awful.

what is going to happen the next day or the day after. It could flop, you could fail, it could be terrible, you could lose everything.

How does your Arab heritage inspire you?

I was just like, ‘I’m just going to do the craziest thing I could do,

I love the beauty of Islamic art and Arabian heritage. It shouldn’t

all my worse fears in one basket’. There are times where you hit

ever be lost – it should always be re-invented and re-used. I feel

real roadblocks. But you figure it out.

like it adds a lot of value and creativity in fashion. My brand is a marriage of east meets west in perfect harmony. I am mixed,

Where does it fit in today’s industry?

I’ve lived a mixed life. So I really embody the two worlds and I

I get a lot of Saudi clients and Emiratis, Kuwaitis and Qataris, but

just put them together.

then I get people in Australia ordering about four pieces at once. There are also people in Sweden, England and so on. Regional

Is there anyone or anything specific that has changed the way

dress is no longer limited to the Middle East, its international

you approach life?

style. I speak to my customers so I really get to know who they

His Highness Sheikh Mohammad bin Rashid Al Maktoum, Vice

are and what they want.

President and Prime Minister and Ruler of Dubai. He’s really taught me that nothing is impossible. When I look back I wonder, ‘How did

What do you enjoy most about being a part of society in the

I do all these things when I had so many limitations?’ It’s because

Middle East?

the leadership that I grew up under says, ‘Why not?’

What I enjoy is making a difference. I know what I have done is so out of the box, in terms of how Middle Eastern girls are raised,

Who is the person who has influenced you most over the years?

so I know that I have paved the way for some girls. That makes

Princess Diana. As a child she was everywhere, on all the magazine

me happy because now it is okay for other girls to go and do it.

covers. Before I even learnt to read I was already in love with her

I enjoy helping and mentoring as well.

nature. She was such a beautiful, gentle being that had a really big heart and dedicated her life to helping people. And she didn’t have

What support system do you surround yourself with?

to do that. She had heartache, but was still so human.

I’m a girl’s girl, so I love my girlfriends. We’re all self-employed so we all help and support each other because you always have

Has that inspired you to work on your own charity projects?

those moments where you don’t know if you can do it or you

Very much so, I try to do as much as I can. They are my more fun

don’t know what to do.

projects – two of which made it into the Guinness World Records – such as making the world’s most expensive burger and designing

What advice you would give other young women?

a bejewelled bra for Breast Cancer Awareness. I also work a lot

Be your own hero. If you have a problem do it yourself, don’t rely

with local charities such as orphanages and women’s associations.

on anyone. If you want to start your own business, do it. You

It’s so important for everyone.

don’t need anyone else.

M o del m o m ent

N e w

G i r l Photographed by Hedi Slimane

Born-and-bred New Yorker Julia Cumming lives and breathes the Saint Laurent aesthetic. But, the face of the brand’s spring/summer 15 campaign is a music maestro at heart. From her seventies-inspired band to her über cool charm, she’s more than a model muse. By Susan Devaney With an overslept, peroxide messy bob and a pin-thin 5-foot-11 silhouette Julia is every inch rock ‘n’ roll’s girl. A pair of black lace-up boots, striped T-shirt and tight leather miniskirt is all part of her daily ensemble. Becoming a model was never on her radar. The 19-year-old’s heart truly lies with her band Sunflower Bean – as bass player and singer. Sharing an apartment in Brooklyn together the teenage trio formed in 2013. Since then they’ve played many a venue, pleased many crowd. With a sound that resembles the likes of Black Sabbath and a fusion of psychedelic rock, she’s every inch the ‘cool girl’. After releasing an EP, Show Me Your Seven Secrets, in January with her other band mates, Nick Kivlen and Jacob Faber, they’ve had a packed tour schedule on the road. Skipping her own high school graduation to play on stage sums up her unwavering love for music. But it would appear that not having her diploma to hand hasn’t given her any career woes. After studying classic singing at the Professional Performing Arts School in New York, she had planned to enrol in a music conservatory for college. But her band led her in a different direction. After being spotted on YouTube by Saint Laurent’s casting director she was invited to walk for their autumn/winter 14 show. Having since walked for three of their shows she is now a fixed favourite. And it’s easy to see why. Hedi Slimane, the creative director, is known for his love of rock ‘n’ roll, smeared eyeliner, ripped tights and channelling the rocker chick vibe. Julia has all that, and more. ‘I think that Hedi is a really amazing artist. I think what [Saint Laurent] tries to do for musicians is more authentic than what I think has ever been done,’ she has said. From Courtney Love, to Daft Punk and Marilyn Manson, Slimane has called upon many a musician to front his campaigns. Without falling into the cliché of model/musician, Julia looks at both career choices as an artist – each deliver artistic expression in different ways. Citing The Who, Black Sabbath and Pink Floyd as major influences, Sunflower Bean hope to release their debut album this summer, a sure sound trip to the seventies. It’s very fitting for a teenager, whose old soul lies with the spirit of a freedom-fuelled decade, much like the campaign she’s fronting. With previous British models such as Edie Campbell and Cara Delevingne coveting his campaigns, Cumming’s brings Stateside youth appeal. And, we’ll see her walking for the next Saint Laurent show, embodying the brand by just being her.

S t yl e N ote

Short

and Sweet Shorts are the unexpected comeback kid of the summer. We explore how this surprisingly versatile piece of clothing is taking us from meeting to poolside.

When it comes to shorts, it’s complicated. Typically envisaged as denim cut-offs on the lithe limbed or as Lycra gym wear for 1. OSKLEN SS15 | 2. PAUL & JOE | 3. CHLOÉ | 4. CHRISTIAN DIOR

an early morning yoga session, shorts have not always been easy to fuse into a fashion-savvy wardrobe. But now we’re seeing shorts from a new perspective. Steadily reinventing themselves over recent seasons, the spring/summer runways were ablaze with leg-baring alternatives to the skirt. From preppy tailored Bermudas at 3.1 Phillip Lim to the continuation of all things seventies in the form of high-waisted tap shorts at Chloé, there’s a pair out there to fit any mood. The silky pleated micro-shorts with a folded waistband shown by Nicolas Ghesquière for Balenciaga SS12 in tones of caramel, icy grey and pastel pink first elevated the abbreviated short into a nigh on couture-like garment. Paired with silken metallic jackets with harness-like fastenings, the waist-embracing shorts were no mere accessory, but a star player in a new kind of formal. Of course it is fashion’s eternal right to play with hemlines and in 2015 knee-length shorts are stepping into the limelight. Raf Simons’ version for Dior chimed with his 18th century futurist collection. Lightly quilted and with the sportif touch of a visible drawstring, the knee grazing Bermudas instantly modernised floral-sprigged frock coats and brightly hued gilets. This outing alone confirmed that these long-length board shorts have graduated from the beach to the boardroom. Carven and Emilia Wickstead added their take on the trend – the latter’s pale pink satin trapeze tunic and matching city shorts giving a new, experimental meaning to the shorts suit. Insouciant and relaxed, but refined enough to work with a minimalist blazer and caged lace-up heels, long-line shorts offer a refined fusion of feminine and utility, with a dose of tomboy attitude, too, that is simply not possible with a skirt. The form was exaggerated further by Rosie Assoulin for Resort 2015. Culotte-like khaki cargo pants replete with giant side pockets caused a fashion stampede usually reserved for the most game changing of future classics. Grungy and androgynous in equal measure, wear them out of their natural environment for a stylish form of mini-rebellion. If the only pair of shorts that works for you is truly short, there is plenty of scope to play with colour, print and texture. Take a cue from Osklen, where playful organic silk shorts in eye-catching florals referenced the lush foliage of the outdoor contemporary art museum in Brumadinho, Brazil.

Roberto Cavalli took a similarly vacation-ready turn, in the form of romantic white cotton lace shorts that referenced a purity and innocence that proved much more chaste than the hemline (and the label) belied. Diane von Furstenberg, Oscar de la Renta and Paul & Joe concurred, providing their own take on the loose-fit, laidback style. As for the rest of the outfit, true shorts invite a play on proportions to maintain a delicate allure that is the opposite of feeling over-exposed. Dasha Denisenko encapsulated our summer wardrobes in a single outfit, gliding down the Chloé runway in a folksy bell-sleeved cheesecloth blouse and wedged gladiator flats, the generous volume and movement of the top providing the perfect counterbalance to the terracotta-toned shorts below. So let your heart skip a sartorial beat at the thought of a whole new genre of clothing

to add to your summer wardrobe. This summer, legs are out and shorts are most definitely in.

D e sig n er I nter vie w

Against All

Odds

As he continues to raise money for the victims of the recent Nepal earthquake, MOJEH meets Prabal Gurung the New York-based designer who may have the fashion world at his fingertips, but hasn’t forgotten his roots. By Susan Devaney

Adorned in a brightly coloured draped

But Prabal Gurung has come from a road

ruby red creation, America’s First Lady

less travelled. A somewhat global nomad,

Michelle Obama (against all others) chose

the Singapore-born, Nepal-raised designer

his dress. It was the 2010 White House

doesn’t have a conventional fashionable

Correspondents’ Dinner and he was ‘the

back-story. Coming from one of the

chosen one’. It had a knock-on, rippling

world’s poorest countries, to date he is

effect that altered the designer’s status

their greatest fashion export. The country

on the fashion map. ‘To know that such

doesn’t exactly list the fashion industry as

incredibly influential, intelligent women

an encouraged (or realistic) profession to

want to wear my designs is so gratifying’,

enter – but against all odds – Gurung has

he says. From Sarah Jessica Parker to Kate

reached the (very) top. In 2010, he was

Middleton, his creations have rested on the

named a runner-up for the CFDA Vogue

backs of many an influential woman. ‘What

Fashion Fund. In the same year he became

is so fantastic about getting the opportunity

the recipient of the Ecco Domani Fashion

to dress these women is that I’m able to

Fund Award and received a nomination

see my designs come to life on the women

for the CFDA Swarovski Womenswear

I’m so inspired by. All of the women we

Awards. His level of recognition is

dress are extremely talented and beautiful

staggering considering he only launched

women of substance. Each and every time

his first eponymous collection during New

it happens I cannot tell you how honoured

York Fashion Week in 2009. Bypass all of

I feel. It really never gets old!’ he exclaims.

the awards, shows, the industry’s glitz and

Prabal with his mother in Nepal.

glamour and Gurung’s sights are firmly set on one thing: Nepal’s recovery. ‘There are so many displaced girls in Nepal who need shelter and education and I really am of the mindset that educating the next generations to come is imperative’, he says. ‘At this point, the Nepal Earthquake Fund has become an extension of my mission.’ Talk of his home country and childhood Runway look from Autumn/winter 15.

tur ns Gurung into Nepal’s biggest crusader. It’s clearly a place that holds many defining moments and memories for him. Growing up in Kathmandu – the capital city with a population that is just shy of one million people – it’s aglow with medieval temples, workshops and wonderfully artistic and cultural sights. It may buzz with the sound of backpackers and businesses, but it’s still listed as a developing country. His upbringing in such a place is something Gurung is eternally thankful for. Attending an all-boys Catholic boarding school, he was more fortunate than others, but adhering to strict rules and regulations may well have been the making of him – for running your own label in 2015 is no easy feat, it requires more than talent alone. ‘Grace under pressure’ has been his applied motto since his school days. Gurung may have been educated with the boys, but his futuristic vision lies with women. From experimenting with new wave feminism for his autumn/ winter 13 collection to his latest pre-fall 15

Prabal backstage during autumn/winter 15 fashion week.

Pre-fall 15.

collection that has ‘femininity with bite’, Gurung designs for strong, intelligent and confident women (much like the women from his kin). ‘My family has always been supportive of my decision to pursue a career in fashion, which in Nepal is a very different path to take. Knowing that I had their blessing meant the world and gave me the confidence and courage to make the move to New York to finish my studies’, he recalls. To this day Gurung’s

Embroidered designs from spring/summer 15.

family remains his stable backbone. It was his mother who taught him about women and the many hats they must wear. From his childhood he vividly remembers the women who surrounded him day-today. Writing for the Huffington Post, he recalled, ‘The quiet inner strength of my mother – her unwavering belief in and quest for integrity and justice, her unflinching philosophy of grace under pressure – has always had a profound influence on me and the way I view women.’ This conscientious effort is apparent in his work. For spring/summer 15, the runway was laden with designs that oozed an easy appeal. Exposing slices of hipbones or shoulders, it was sex appeal with an understatement. With drawstring-waist silk jackets and open-weave jumpers – all in a mirage of soft pastel shades. It was sport-meets-haute-couture-meetsthe-mountains. Taking us on trip through the treacherous terrain during the spring, his woman is an adventurer (much like Brightly coloured shoes from autumn/winter 15.

Gurung is an itinerant man on his own journey (often taking time out to retreat from the hustle and bustle of city life – but for no longer than six days at a time). After completing his studies at the National Institute of Fashion Technology in New Delhi, India (along with several apprenticeships and a short spell of designing with Manish Arora) he went from country to country for seven years. Having seen more of the world than most, it is reflective in his visionary creations. In 1999, he moved to the City That Never Sleeps with high hopes and a whole lot himself). ‘This time it’s more a visual diary

of ambition. Taking up a place at the

of her trek up the mountains’, he said.

prestigious Parsons School of Design,

Piles of feathers, lightly trailing chiffon

he excelled with determination. In his

scarves and rolling ruffles all spoke of his

first year he was awarded Best Designer

beloved Himalayas. But it’s the journey

Award at the annual Parsons/FIT design

of the woman he captures time and time

competition. It was during this time that

again. ‘We really have never wavered on

he also learned at the helm of Donna

the women we design for’, he says. ‘I

Karan, throughout an internship with

create clothes for women who look for

the esteemed designer. Upon leaving

an intelligent and artistic luxury. Above all

Parsons, he spent two years working with

I want them to feel empowered, special,

Cynthia Rowley’s team before becoming

and confident wearing my designs. I very

the design director for Bill Blass. He left

much look to the concept of the Prabal

during a tumultuous time of recession and

Gurung woman throughout my creative

uncertainty – but with $10,000 in the bank,

process. My muse is strong, astute,

no investor, a 350sft space in East Village

eloquent and substantive – I always hope

and two staff members he started his own

to convey these ideals with my designs’,

label. Calling it a fearlessly ambitious move

he concludes.

is an understatement.

Like the women he designs for, he is

Maybe his heart lies in Nepal, but New

extremely worldly. From exotic locations

York City has adopted the role of his

in far-flung places to remote hideaways,

muse too. For autumn/winter 15, upstate

New York was his main inspiration. With a minimalistic touch, lines were sharp and cuts were clean. Focusing on Native American designs as a motif, it runs like a current through his entire collection. ‘A lot of my friends are having babies. Their bodies change. I’ve realised a dress can still be sexy without being skintight’, he said backstage before the show – hence the change of silhouette. Slip dresses and sheaths made way for a more fluid and easy move away from the body. For Gurung, fusing women, power and fashion has always been an integral part of his vision. ‘The women I like dressing always

fashion world to donate to the country’s

have to have a strength of mind and real

people through his foundation, Shikshya

character’, he told British Vogue in 2011.

Foundation Nepal. ‘When the earthquake

‘It’s about the content of their heart and

hit, I felt even more connected to my

mind. Kate Middleton, like the First Lady,

home’, he says. ‘I have been lucky enough

is representative of that ideal. She is very

to build a following on social media and

democratic in the way she dresses. She

within the industry that has given me

never behaves badly and we live in a world

access to tools that spread awareness

where people become famous for falling

and raised close to $1 million. The Nepal

out of a taxi drunk. And then there’s Kate –

Earthquake Fund’s team has started to

poised, looking like she’s enjoying herself

build over 1,500 homes for those affected

and holding onto her integrity.’

by the earthquake. It has truly now become

But on Saturday, April 25th 2015 Gurung’s

an integral part of my business and lifelong

ambitions permanently changed; a date

commitment to continue to rebuild and

that will forever be ingrained in his mind. ‘I

help those displaced.’ He believes it’s his

will be looking to help rebuild Nepal for the

charity work that helps him to stay humble

rest of my life’, he says without hesitation.

and keep two feet firmly on the ground.

With a magnitude of 7.9, the quake left a

His grateful manner and ability to see the

rising death toll in its wake. As the country

bigger picture is hard not to notice when

tries to rebuild its communities, lives and

he speaks. With a childhood of growing up

future, Gurung has reached out to the

surrounded by the beautiful mountainous

Autumn/winter 15.

terrain, the lush countryside and the raw nature of Nepal, it’s only a-given that he’d want to restore it to its people. ‘We’re working with a number of relief organisations on the ground to disperse the funds but the country will need much more than just that’, he urges. ‘Anything I can do to bring attention to what still needs to be done there, I will do. Society tends to turn to the next disaster quite Moodboard preparations backstage before the spring/summer 15 show.

quickly so it’s even more important that these efforts are continued.’ He tries to go home as often as possible. Bringing him a sense of clarity and retreat, the rolling hills of Nepal are his refuge from the glamorous life of the rich and famous. When he speaks of his homeland, he is full of admiration and sentimentality. It clearly keeps his spirit humble. His ability to see passed the world of fashion and fuse his love for design with a greater need is the vital component to his singular success. With many people upholding Gurung for his unusual back-story into this world, he hopes it will allow for others to dream bigger – especially those from improvised backgrounds. ‘I do believe that people often relate to a unique story or a different upbringing and at times may feel a personal connection because of that’, he says reflectively. It is obvious he cares deeply for the future of our planet and its people. In his visions, creative spirit and championing campaign, Gurung will always tread the path that leads to home.

Prabal during a model fitting backstage during autumn/winter 15.

Ties That Bind Photographed by Julien Vallon Styled by Olivia Arnaud

Left: Jacket, BARBARA BUI | Jeans, ZADIG & VOLTAIRE Right: All, CHLOE

Left: Dress, ISABEL MARANT | Ring, AURELIE BIDERMANN Right: Dress, ISABEL MARANT | Belt, BARBARA BUI

Top, LEONARD | Rings, AURELIE BIDERMANN

All, ISABEL MARANT

Left: Top, ZADIG & VOLTAIRE | Skirt, DICE KAYEK Right: Dress, ZADIG & VOLTAIRE | Coat and hat, PAUL SMITH

Shirt and trousers, CELINE | Ring, AURELIE BIDERMANN

Left: Top and trousers, MARTIN GRANT | Necklace, MONSIEUR Right: Jacket, ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER | Trousers, LUCIEN WANG | Necklace and ring, AURELIE BIDERMANN

All, LOUIS VUITTON

Left: Jacket, jumper and trousers, SONIA RYKIEL | Boots, BARBARA BUI Right: Jumper and skirt, BARBARA BUI | Necklace, AURELIE BIDERMANN | Boots, ZADIG & VOLTAIRE

Left: Jumper, BARBARA BUI Right: Jumper, ISABEL MARANT | Jeans, BARBARA BUI

Jumper, ZADIG & VOLTAIRE | Bracelet, AURELIE BIDERMANN

Left: Shirt and skirt, VANESSA SEWARD | Necklace and rings, MONSIEUR | Chain, AURELIE BIDERMANN Right: Coat, CLOSED | Jeans, ZADIG & VOLTAIRE | Ring, AURELIE BIDERMANN

All, DIOR

Models: Larissa Marchiori and Julia Johansen at Elite Hair stylist: Cicci at Calliste Agency Make-up artist: Vichika Yorn Photographerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s assistant: Camelia Frizi Stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s assistant: Marine Birolleau Production: Louis Agency

Need No One Photographed by Alice Rosati Styled by James V. Thomas

Silk blouse and jersey skirt, GIVENCHY | Leather boots, CHRISTIAN DIOR

Cotton bodysuit, AZZEDINE ALAÏA | Earrings (worn throughout), model’s own

102

Cotton blouse, COPERNI FEMME | Cotton trousers, CÃ&#x2030;LINE

104

Jersey knit top and skirt, AZZEDINE ALAÏA | Leather loafers, CÉLINE

Cashmere sweater and wool flares, ALEXIS MABILLE | Velvet boots, LOUIS VUITTON

Python bomber jacket and skirt, GIVENCHY | Leather loafers, CÃ&#x2030;LINE

Leather dress, sequin turtleneck and leather boots, CHRISTIAN DIOR

110

Wool tunic, AZZEDINE ALAÏA | Leather loafers, CÉLINE

Wool turtleneck dress, AZZEDINE ALAÏA | Leather loafers, CÉLINE

Silk dress and leather loafers, CÃ&#x2030;LINE

Cotton dress, MIU MIU

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Wool turtleneck, dress and ring, LOUIS VUITTON

Model: Vera Van Erp at Next Model Management Hair stylist: Christos Vourlis Make-up artist: Eva Ronçay Photographer’s assistant: Josh Chang Stylist’s assistant: Felicity Webb Production: Louis Agency

E v e n i n g

Photographed by Alice Rosati Styled by James V. Thomas

Clothes and shoes, GIVENCHY | Tights (throughout), FALKE | Earrings, Helene Zubeldia

Fur coat, fur gloves, and shoes, BALENCIAGA | Earrings, SASKIA DIEZ

Coat, EMILIO PUCCI | Skirt, MAX MARA | Earrings, SASKIA DIEZ | Necklace, SWAROVSKI | Shoes, LANVIN

Fur coat, LANVIN | Earrings, SASKIA DIEZ | Suitcase, LOUIS VUITTON | Shoes, GIANVITO ROSSI

Jacket and skirt, LANVIN | Top, MAX MARA | Earrings, EDDIE BORGO | Shoes, GIANVITO ROSSI

Fur coat, top and boots, CELINE | Skirt, LANVIN | Earrings, SWAROVSKI

Jacket, SAINT LAURENT by Hedi Slimane | Earrings, SWAROVSKI

All, DIOR | Earrings, SWAROVSKI

Fur coat and boots, CELINE | Earrings, SWAROVSKI

Jacket and shirt, GIVENCHY | Earrings, HELENE ZUBELDIA

Dress, SAINT LAURENT by Hedi Slimane | Earrings, SASKIA DIEZ | Necklace, SWAROVSKI | Shoes, LANVIN

Model: Mila Ganame at Next Management Hair stylist: Chiao Chenet Makeup artist: Eva Roncay Photographerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s assistant: Josh Chang Stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s assistant: Seonyeong Lee Production: Louis Agency

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M o st D es i r ed

Christian Dior Dramatic TUrns Glistening diamonds and shining stones have been part of the Dior aesthetic since Christian Dior added jewels to his second couture collection, the Corolle line, in 1947. Delving into the depths of history, the new capsule collection, Diorama Precieuse, takes inspiration from a couture gown made half a century ago. Taking to the runway in 1951 for spring/summer couture, the Diorama dress, by the man himself, acted as an inspiration for the fine jewellery collection comprising of six pieces. With the House’s jewellery designer Victoire de Castellane looking to the twisted ribbons that adorned the gown, the set of earrings and ring combine materials to form beautiful adornments. With three combinations to pick from: pink morganite and diamonds on rose gold, amethyst and emeralds on yellow gold, and crystalline aquamarine paired with diamonds on white gold. Given a modern and fresh appeal, the openended nature of the designs is all part of this summer’s most coveted jewellery trend. Elegantly sophisticated (as you’ve come to expect from the House) the collection has an evening soirée appeal to it. It may appear to be dainty in its approach, but the stone’s pop of colour and twisted formation adds drama and theatrics a la Dior.

Piaget Let’s Twist Again Recently launched in the UAE, Swiss fine jewellery and watchmaker Piaget’s beautifully crafted Possession collection turns dreams into reality. From pink to white gold, the Possession collection comes in an array of stunning options. Fusing functionality with beauty, the rings possess a turning mechanism that lets you play with it. With a solo diamond centred in the ring or composed of a full row of diamonds, a singular band situated in the middle allows you to turn the precious talisman around your finger. Worn from day into night with ease, its allure can be paired with an exquisite evening gown or a less statement-making ensemble for day-to-day dressing. Put simply, it’s the perfect accessory. With an introduction to carefully selected über successful Arab women by a lavish soirée thrown in the Arabian Desert, ladies of the region were presented with a ring each. Evoking the Piaget motto of ‘turn and the world is yours’ it’s playful in its approach. Jean-Marc Shammas, Piaget’s brand director for the Middle East said ‘Women in our region are exceptional. At Piaget, we wanted to celebrate these women with a unique and secret dinner. The special guests were the amazing women in the region who have managed to turn their world as they wanted it to be.’

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Acces s o ry a ffa ir s

Back To Basics As we jet off on our travels and minimise our wardrobes to carry across the seas, our items have to work extra hard to meet each of our style demands. Look to your vault for fail-safe basics, for pieces perfect for dressing

STELLA MCCARTNEY

up or down, carrying you from day to night.

134

S t yl e N ote

Life Through a

L e n s See everything through rose-tinted glasses this summer with the sunnies that are just right for you.

There’s something to be said for a classic. Peering out under dark shades adds a dash of mystery and this rounded, oversized shape is universally flattering. A summer essential.

Aviators are a perennial style favourite and blogger Pernille Teisbæk works them into summer’s seventies-inspired look for added edge. The bigger the frames the better in the case of heart-shaped faces – aviators direct attention downwards to elongate the proportions.

Round frames are having a moment. Carolina Herrera’s tortoiseshell take on the trend places the focus on the brow line and is ideal for balancing square features.

Round faces find balance in geometric rectangular shapes, but sometimes the rules are made to be broken in the name of fashion. Pale frames, dark lenses and the perfect proportions (coverage from eyebrows to cheek bones) make these the ideal summer specs.

Feeling playful? Michael van der Ham reinvented a fourtiesinspired circular shape, layering opaque and translucent acetate with stripes and scalloped edges. â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;The mixing of textiles and mixing of cuts is always very important to me with clothes, and so I did the same with the glasses,â&#x20AC;&#x2122; he explained.

Cat-eye sunglasses work to widen slim faces and bring a little old-Hollywood glamour to daytime dressing up. Evoke your own Marilyn Monroe or Grace Kelly moment with cat-eye frames a la Fendi in a primarycoloured hue.

Backstage and runway images courtesy Gorunway. Street style images courtesy of IMAXtree.

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T r av el F o c u s

With all the beauty of the glamourous island of Bora Bora combined with the laidback rhythms of daily island life, the French Polynesian coral atoll of Maupiti is a little piece of paradise. Become mesmerized by the volcano at the heart of the island and shimmering lagoons, which offer unparalleled snorkeling and diving in the azure South Pacific Ocean.

Jet Set

Accessories

2 4

Summer Escapism Sand, sun and shining accessories combine to create the sweetest of summers. Reach for a wide-brimmed straw hat by Hermès and head down to the seashore. Not forgetting Dolce & Gabbana’s maiolicainspired espadrilles of course, which mimic Mediterranean ceramics, in deep cobalt sea tones. Blue is the warmest colour this summer, every shade from the pastel of sky blue to the brightest aqua. Gold earrings by Diane von Furstenberg, dripping with chains, will complement a summer tan and elevate a sheer kaftan for a carefree bohemian look that is perfectly at home with your tropical surroundings.

Maupiti photography by Paul Zizka/All Canada Photos/Corbis. Anatolia photography by Martin Siepmann/Westend61/Corbis. Runway images courtesy of Gorunway. Street style images courtesy of IMAXtree.

With summer travel at the top of our agendas this month, we bring you the accessories that will add an extra dose of style to your getaway.

A spectacular landscape, entirely sculpted by erosion, the Göreme valley nestles in Cappadocia in the Eastern Anatolian Region of Turkey. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, discover Byzantine art in rock-hewn troglodyte villages and underground towns that date back to the fourth century.

2 3

1 4

Adventure Trail If it’s summer adventure you seek, tap into this season’s trend for all things khaki, camel and taupe. A neutral palette executed the Ralph Lauren way means safari-wear littered with hand-sewn crystals and accompanied by an oversized gold-brushed vachetta leather hobo bag big enough to hold all your out-of-town essentials. Channel the sweeping glamour of Kristin Scott Thomas in The English Patient, and pair a men’s cut white shirt with a woven suede belt, luxe backpack and camouflage scarf in the softest silk. Dashes of animal print on slides or stacked bangles add contrast to this eclectic look for an earth tone finish that does anything but blend in.

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Inner Retreat If summer means a unique chance to escape the humdrum of everyday life, you might head for a restful retreat and make your break all about finding that sense of inner peace. Whites, nudes and tans make up a summer colour combination that soothes. Fuss-free silhouettes, with a touch of bohemian movement, in the case of Stella McCartney’s fringed Falabella, are easy on the eye. Jimmy Choo’s geta-inspired flatforms will bring a serene style to everything from alfresco meditation to a tranquil forest walk. For those seeking a reflective retreat, these minimal accessories will add a heavy dose of calm to your wardrobe.

Bali photography by Michele Falzone/JAI/Corbis. London photography by Stuart Westmorland/Corbis. Runway images courtesy of Gorunway. Street style images courtesy of IMAXtree.

Capture a moment of blissful peace at Pura Ulun Danu Bratan Temple on Lake Bratan in Bali. A haven for health, wellness and yoga, experience Bali’s lush vegetation, spectacular beaches and natural island wonders from Seminyak to Lovina Beach. Envisage life beyond the city.

There aren’t enough hours in the day to explore all that the British capital of London has to offer. Take in a fashion exhibition at the Victoria & Albert Museum, refresh with afternoon tea and pick out the perfect summer fashion staples at Harrods.

City Lights The secret to summer street style on a meandering city break? Never underestimate the power of a bold accessory to add zing to your outfit. Hazy days in the city are meant for ruby-hued heels and short handled structured totes. Paired with relaxed, loose tailoring this combination strikes an effortlessly undone tone. Whether following a cultural path that takes in museums and art galleries or simply blending into the crowd with a spot of people watching over breakfast alfresco, Charlotte Olympia’s patent Mary Jane beauties will have you striding out in style. Add an air of mystery with Chloé’s retro-inspired shades and embrace your inner urbanite.

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B e a u ty F o c u s

The Sweet Escape, photographed by Adam Secore, MOJEH Issue 21.

Summer Saviours It’s inevitable that the desert will get dryer over the coming summer months, and so too will our skin. Investing in a plethora of products is a necessity for hydration and protection.

The thought of rubbing oil all over your face can be a little daunting for many, but with the help of Dr. Jackson it’s a smooth process. By helping to replenish your skin’s nutrients with its mix of natural oils, it leaves you with a renewed and even complexion.

It has everything all rolled into one. Known for its high levels of lauric acid, raw coconut is a natural antioxidant and pure ingredient. From removing make-up to moisturising your skin, it’s a new beauty must-have.

We’re all too well aware of the long-term damaging effects the sun has on our skin. But Dior’s Capture Totale Le Sérum aims to turn back the clock by eliminating wrinkles, improving firmness and enhancing cellular synchronisation for an all-over glow.

As the seasons switch so too should your cleanser. Enriched with extracts of purifying Moringa and nourishing Shea and mango, this lightweight and creamy cleanser removes dirt whilst leaving your skin feeling fresh and supple.

If your skin is very parched then this will do the trick. Enhanced with vanilla and sandalwood it helps to relive excessively dry skin with its rich and thick formula. It’s perfect for counteracting seasonal dryness too.

Pollutants from the city are always high up on our list of beauty concerns. With its waxy and creamy texture, Elemis’ Pro-Collagen Cleansing Balm removes make-up whilst nourishing it. Fusing a range of oils, from starflower to elderberry it does the job while smelling delightful.

A seasonal must-have for most, Sisley’s new sun care range is great for protecting your skin from the sun’s rays – wherever you may be. Its silky and non-greasy texture leaves your skin feeling light whilst highly protected.

Rahua Omega 9 Hair Mask springs dry and brittle hair back to life. Found in the rainforest Ungurahua oil is rich in omega-9. Fused with quinoa, sunflower seed oil, lavender and eucalyptus your hair is left shining.

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B o dy S ec r ets

Hanneli With multiple slashes to her name – photographer/model/ blogger/stylist – Hanneli Mustaparta is far more than just a pretty face. Named as one of the most influential bloggers by American Vogue, the Norwegian style maven’s day-today musings on her blog are more than a little addictive.

Images courtesy of Hanneli.com and Valentina Frugiuele.

The Life of

What’s the first thing you do in the morning? I drink green tea, cleanse my skin and moisturise before having breakfast and then maybe Pilates… What’s the best beauty tip you’ve learned? [To make sure] I cleanse my skin every morning and evening, and always moisturise. Use an eye cream. Never touch your face with your hands during the day to avoid pimples. Alternate your brands as your skin gets used to them. Which beauty products do you use every day? I use Nimue Skin Technology and Dermalogica cleanser, Nimue toner, La Prairie eye cream, Active Moist day cream by Dermalogica – for night and flights I use Dior Prestige. [I also use] Skinflash Concealer and Show Over Curl Mascara from Dior and Giorgio Armani Maestro Eraser. In what ways does your beauty regime change from winter to summer? For winter I use a heavier cream with more moisture, as the air is dryer, I usually use the original La Mer. For foundation I use Armani Luminous Silk. For summer I use a lighter cream (with no oil) as it’s hot, like Active Moist by Dermalogica and Nimue day cream. I have an amazing foundation that I use for summer by Glo Minerals. It blends in with your skins natural oils and makes it look fresh and dewy. Do you have a signature day-to-day make-

Do you have a favourite sport?

up look?

I did swimming as a kid which I still love, trapeze

I use concealer, foundation, a little black liner

is amazing, snowboarding and rock climbing.

on my lids, mascara, slight touch of bronzer and lip balm. In the winter I use a pink shade

How do you keep fit?

on my cheeks.

I alternate between yoga, Pilates, Barry’s Boot camp, SLT and the occasional Trapeze class. I

What type of diet do you follow?

want to enjoy using my body, I’m not a big fan

I eat quite normally and somewhat healthy, and

of a regular gym routine.

am very relaxed about it. I’ll have a green juice with my bacon, eggs and toast. I love my oatmeal

Which supplements do you take?

with honey roasted pumpkin seeds and little

I take Magnesium as it’s good for your heart and

sour cream and banana. I like having pasta and

helps with stress. Zink is good for your cells to

lasagne with vegetables.

make wounds heal faster. Other than that I try to eat varied foods to make sure I get what I need.

Is that one of your favourites? My own lasagne is incredible. I developed the

How do you tame your tresses?

recipe over a few years after eating amazing

I have very flat, Scandinavian hair, so I always

lasagnes in Italy and the South of France.

need to add volume rather than tame it.

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M OJEH H ea lth

Futuristic

Fitness Online personal trainers, wearables and apps are changing the way we workout. But is the rise of the cyber workout really going to make us fitter, faster and stronger? By Oliver Robinson

and wherever, meaning that we – the consumer – don’t have to spend time travelling to and from a BodyPump class that may or may not coincide with our busy schedule. ‘People are getting busier and looking for information that’s easily accessible,’ opines Kevin Foster-Wiltshire, creator of online fitness resource GymCube. ‘People are also looking for variety, which is why more of us are using the web to find a wider range of workouts and expert insight. GymCube’s audience tends to include people topping up their current gym activity, time-stricken office workers who want to exercise at their convenience, and mums who need to integrate their workouts with looking after the kids.’ Aside from offering an accessible, affordable and time-economic workout, online fitness programmes offer refuge to the body conscious. According to a 2015 survey conducted by Bodybuilding Warehouse, 58 percent of those Do you remember a time when we didn’t need the Internet to keep in touch

surveyed said that they were most socially anxious when at the gym – more

with friends, shop or find a date?

so than sunbathing on the beach or being examined by a doctor.

No, neither do we.

Avid gym goers might question the effectiveness of online training sessions.

We are children of the digital age – an age where thoughts, feelings and

‘People always like to work out in a group and to socialise with others,’

social interactions are more likely to be played out online than they are in

argues Chandler of Talise Fitness. ‘Whether that is in a group exercise

the real world.

class, a CrossFit competition or an obstacle race. The feeling you get after

It was only a matter of time before our health and fitness became digitised:

completing the workout with a friend – or even someone you may have never

CBS News recently reported that of the 54 million Americans who belong to

met – far outweighs the satisfaction you get from an online fitness class.’

a gym, less than half use their membership consistently. Meanwhile, fitness

Or, to phrase this another way: surely a pumped-up PT shouting in your

app downloads have increased 87 percent faster than other apps, and fitness

ear is more motivation than watching a fitness instructor on a screen that

video streaming increased by 60 percent last year alone.

can easily be switched off?

And when we can’t watch a celebrity on the other side of the world teach

But herein lies the rub: our digitised, data-obsessed generation can’t switch

us how to work on our glutes, we wear a bracelet that monitors how many

off. We’re hooked.

steps we take in a day, how many calories we burn in the process, and how

This fact alone helps explain the phenomenon of fitness trackers. These

many more we need to burn before we resemble the healthy, happy people

gadgets monitor and record everything from heart rate to distance travelled

we see wearing them in the adverts.

by foot, diet to sleeping patterns around the clock. Some come in the form

‘Fitness apps and technology, within the fitness industry as a whole, is rising,’

of watches (Fitbit Surge and Apple Watch being two of the most high-profile

confirms James Chandler, general manager of Talise Fitness. ‘It’s incredible

culprits), others as wristbands that sync with users’ smartphones.

how many new gadgets and monitors you can get now, all geared towards

Data, it would seem, is the ultimate motivator. Josh Trent says that fitness

improving your health.’

trackers essentially remove personal trainers from the ‘drill sergeant’ role, and

Unsurprisingly, Chandler extolls the virtues of gym workouts and fitness

make data the new disciplinarian. ‘Now the numbers do the talking,’ he says.

classes, but he concedes that online fitness sessions are well-suited to

By tracking day-to-day activity users can build on past physical achievements

those with busy work schedules, or anyone who has difficulty finding time

– seeing that they’ve walked six miles in a day can generate a great sense

the time get to a gym and workout.

of accomplishment, especially when, a month ago, a flight of stairs would

Interestingly, Talise Fitness and many other gyms are investing in new

have rendered them breathless.

technology in a bid to keep up with the rise of the cyber workout.

‘In our increasingly overweight and sedentary society, these gadgets can

‘We have some fantastic developments coming soon to Talise Fitness at

help users become more aware of how much energy they’re consuming and

Jumeirah Emirates Towers,’ continues Chandler. ‘We will soon be launching

how little they’re expending – and motivate people to change,’ argues Mary

My Wellness Cloud, where our members can log their workouts, challenge a

E. Pritchard PhD in an article published in Psychology Today.

friend and find out about club events. We can also interact with our members

But there’s also a flip side – the ‘guilt complex’ induced by fitness trackers

more and suggest training tips for their next workout.’

can prove harmful to wearers.

Meanwhile, corrective exercise specialist and sports technology expert

As Pritchard points out, ‘For many, [fitness trackers] can be a very useful

Josh Trent believes that we are on the cusp of a digital fitness revolution.

tool, but if you have or have ever had a tendency toward an eating disorder,

‘Companies are now hard at work brewing up new platforms, apps, and

they can be a nightmare. That “accountability” can push you over the edge

activity trackers to answer the demands of a rapidly changing digital health

into danger zone – and it happens so quickly and easily that you may not

landscape,’ he says. ‘What we’re about to see rise from the ocean is a

realise it at first.’

powerfully crafted and effective framework for radical – and very personal

To determine what is a healthy use of fitness trackers and what verges on

– health transformation.’

obsession, Pritchard uses the same criteria as she does to diagnose any

Technology’s intrusion into our exercise regime has as much to do with

addiction. Withdrawal, intention effect (i.e spending more time looking at

practicality as it does our inability to function without a smartphone.

the tracker than intended), lack of control, and reduction in other activities,

The average cost for monthly membership at a UAE gym is about AED400

are all key symptoms of an unhealthy fitness tracker habit.

(with many charging a minimum three-month sign-up fee), whereas a

But for all the advantages and disadvantages of digital fitness technology, we

30-minute iTrain download costs under AED25.

are ultimately still in control of the impact it has on our lives. As writer Christina

Time, like money, is a precious commodity, and another reason why online

Bonnington points out in her article on fitness technology, ‘The truth is,

fitness classes are proving popular with busy denizens the world over.

you’re every bit as capable at shedding pounds armed with a veggie-stocked

Having an online personal trainer deliver a workout programme electronically

fridge, a pair of trainers, and a jump rope as you are with a fancy heart-rate-

means that exercise tips and workout regimes can be accessed whenever

tracking smartwatch and a pair of US$300 shoes packed with sensors.’

146

S t yl e note

The

Short of it

Are you brave enough to go for the chop? From Sienna Miller to Cate Blanchett, celebrities are leading the way by embracing a bold new ‘do. One thing’s for sure: it’s all about the short, choppy blunt cut.

A sleek and sophisticated ‘lob’ (a.k.a long bob) is going from street to street as it continues to trend. Keeping it simple is the way to go.

Sienna Miller has given us severe hair envy over recent months with her tousled blonde short style, that’s modern and effortless, as always.

With a reported client list of Carla Bruni, Diane Kruger and Charlotte Gainsbourg, Paris-based hair stylist David Mallett is in hot demand.

From Alexa Chung to Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, these short-haired celebs have all popped into George Northwood’s Pureology flagship salon in London.

Always one to channel easy sophistication, Cate Blanchett adopts the short cut with a wave of old school Hollywood elegance.

Take note from street style star Olivia Palermo and play with lengths at the front â&#x20AC;&#x201C; before going for the all over chop.

A recent convert to the chop, model Jourdan Dunn breathes a fresh and feminine appeal into a polished cut â&#x20AC;&#x201C; with a slight curl.

If Angelina Jolie trusts him with her locks, then so would we. The Ted Gibson salon in New York City is the place to go.

Having made in her name in Dubai, hair stylist Maria Dowling is known for her slice cutting and colouring talents.

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B e a u ty F o c u s

Layer by Layer Last year, the US beauty market was worth $11.2bn and the UK’s was estimated at £2.3bn. With an array of

From peels to exfoliators, to serums, navigating the map of skincare can be

confusing. With an abundance of beauty products to pick from, looking after our skin has never been easier – but as we apply from morning until night, are we layering too many products onto our faces?

products targeted at us, it’s difficult to decipher which is best, especially with high fashion brands launching their own skincare lines such as Dolce & Gabbana and Chanel. ‘The best skin products are those which are created in a laboratory as cosmeceuticals - formulated with nanotechnology’, says Dr. Mona from Biolite Aesthetic Clinic in Dubai. ‘Basically, this means that the molecule is so small that it absorbs immediately into the skin and begins working on contact like a topical drug, so to speak. Most OTC or branded cosmetic/ skincare lines are not formulated in the same way which means its takes weeks before one actually

By Susan Devaney

begins to see a result. I’m not convinced that the designer branded products [are] packed with the ‘good stuff’ for which one really ought to be paying for,’ she explains. The cosmetic and toiletries market in the Middle East is considered to be one of the most

Which one comes first: the serum or the moisturiser…

profitable and largest in the world – growing at a

or is it the sunscreen? Adopting the correct steps in

rate of 12 per cent per year. As the region continues

our skincare regime can be as confusing as picking

to compete with the global market, beauty sales

the right product for your skin type. But we all know

are expected to increase by more than AED20

that keeping your skin looking healthy and glowing

billion by 2020.

requires day-to-day attention. It’s striking a balance

It’s a minimalist skincare regime that appears to be the

of just enough layering that’s the beauty issue of great

winning cocktail. ‘The right sequence of products is

concern. ‘Overuse of products is the biggest mistake

key to beautiful healthy skin’, says Dr. Fazeela. ‘When

people make in their skincare regimes’, explains Dr.

used in the wrong combination some ingredients

Fazeela a cosmetic dermatologist from the Dermacare

will cancel out each others’ benefits. For example,

Group in Dubai. ‘Some patients come in with a grocery

the acid in glycolic or salicylic acid breaks down

bag full of products and wonder why their skin does

ingredients like retinol, vitamin C or hydroquinone.

not look or feel great. Bombarding your skin with

Use one ingredient product at a time’, she says. With

a host of different ingredients can be irritating.’

a cabinet full of multiple elixirs such as brightening fluid

Applying more than three or four formulas at a

to dark spot correctors, slathering products across

time can be exhausting for your skin. ‘The take

your face can cause a pile up of hydration rather than

home message is: do not overdose your skin with

absorption. Some combinations of ingredients

multiple products at one time. The simpler your

should best be avoided. You thought it was okay

skin regime, the more likely you are to stick with

to apply your anti-ageing moisturiser on top of

it and enjoy the benefits,’ she concludes.

your acne breakout treatment? Think again. Retinol

Adopting a simple skincare regime is at the heart of the

(stimulates cell renewal) in anti-ageing products

problem, especially as the beauty industry continues

and benzoyl peroxide (dries up blemishes) prove

to market the newest must-have products towards us.

for a red and flaky skin concern.

Raw Canvas, photographed by Julia Noni, MOJEH Issue 6.

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Raw Canvas, photographed by Julia Noni, MOJEH Issue 6.

Remember: It’s important to exfoliate, cleanse and moisturise. A popular product choice is cleansing oils as they remove makeup without leaving a sensation of tight and dry skin. But cleansing oils are susceptible to leaving a residue (or barrier) on top of your skin. If you then apply a serum – which usually contains ingredients such as beta-glucan, peptides or vitamin C – these will be prevented from sinking deep into

Heavy emollients can’t be used during daytime. Retinoids and skin lightening creams are used at night. So there is a timescale for every product to be used at a specific time.

your skin. It’s the potency of serums that make them highly desirable, so not gaining all of their nutrients is counteractive. ‘After exfoliation, a product containing hyaluronic acid or ceramides is preferred and skin can simply not be treated by products containing retinoids or glycolic acid’, Dr. Fazeela advises. Afterwards you should apply the thinnest hydrator first. ‘I have a rule

SPF protection as you’re altering the formula of both.

of thumb: Moisturise when skin comes in contact

Applying an SPF should be left to the daytime, and in

with water. Moisturisation has nothing to do with the

the evening, your skin care regime should be altered.

oiliness in the skin. Moisture and sebum (or oil) are

‘Sunscreen-containing moisturisers can’t be used at

two different entities. The type of moisturisers will

night. Heavy emollients can’t be used during daytime.

be different according to different skin types and in

Retinoids and skin lightening creams are used at night.

different weathers. Oil-free moisturisers during the

So there is a timescale for every product to be used

summer and emollients during winter are more in

at a specific time’, she explains. Adding moisturise

demand as frigid temperatures and indoor heating

to your skin is best left to the night. ‘Generally the

can rob your skin of moisture’, she advises. In July

moisturiser for the night tends to be slightly heavier

last year, the UAE witnessed a sales increase of 35

than the day, which is perfect for defending and

per cent for skincare products as the humidity and

repairing the skin while one sleeps’, explains Dr. Mona.

summer heat hit the Dubai shores. Keeping our skin

It is of important to note the ingredients contained

protected and moisturised is a necessity, not a luxury.

within your products of choice. ‘There are many

‘The short or long term effects of not moisturising

ingredients that have undergone scrutiny in the last

could result in a dry to very dry skin with an ineffective

few years. The notable ones are parabens, sodium

skin barrier function, resulting in an unhappy irritated

lauryl sulphate and phthalates’, warns Dr. Fazeela.

allergy prone skin. Unhappy skin gets old at a quicker

On the surface the qualities of parabens appear very

pace and gets etched with lines and wrinkles. Different

useful: they prevent the growth of bacteria, mould

skin illnesses like acne, rosacea and psoriasis flare

and yeast in your beauty products. But they possess

up and skin allergies take a toll in an unhealthy dry

oestrogen-mimicking properties that are associated

angry skin’, she warns.

with the increased risk of breast cancer. They can

It’s essential, living in the Middle East, to factor in sun

be found in everything from facial cleansers to body

protection. ‘In every country, the way to pamper your

washes. This only heightens the essentiality of applying

skin and body is different. The norms are dictated not

products to your face that have been tested and

just by the culture but also by the weather environment

created by established and certified skin care brands.

and the socioeconomic status of the nation’, says

As consumers we look for innovative products and this

Dr. Fazeela. With thanks to the innovative science in

in turn drives growth. But, according to Dr. Fazeela,

beauty developments in South Korea, we can apply

we must remember, ‘Skin is a living organ and is

sunscreen with ease and add to our makeup routine.

of different types in different individuals. The genes

From the BB to the CC cream, multitasking and tinted

decide what type of skin the person will have and its

creams are easy to acquire and incorporate within

the physical environment, along with his life style and

our daily routine. Containing many active ingredients

health, can alter it.’ Everyone’s skin is different, and

they’re multifunctional and lightweight on our skin. But

everyone’s beauty product choices are different. It’s

if your favourite foundation doesn’t contain an SPF?

essential to scope out a skincare regime that suits

Many people think they can simply combine their

your own skin’s needs. For pilling on an excess of

foundation with sunscreen applied on top. If only life

creams and moisturisers can affect their absorption

was that simple. Combining the two doesn’t guarantee

and leave us with layered, but lacklustre skin.

A rt is t in R es i de nce

A r t

Peggy Guggenheim certainly lived up to a name that is synonymous with the art world. Deeply involved in the rise of modern art, her personal life frequently, and controversially, intertwined with those of the artists themselves. A documentary film directed by Lisa Immordino Vreeland, Art Addict, explores the life of this avid collector. Kandinsky or Dalí, de Kooning or Pollock, take your pick from some

‘Peggy was also a visionary but emotionally she was not as alive… This

of the most influential modern artists of our time. The breadth of the

film is rich with the lives of the most important artists of the time – and

collection that nestles on the banks of the Grand Canal at Palazzo

Peggy is the centre of the action,’ says Vreeland.

Venier dei Leoni in Venice, now the Peggy Guggenheim Collection, is

Peggy made it her business to be at the centre of the action. Opening

breathtaking even to the untrained eye. Art Addict, directed by Lisa

her first gallery in London in 1938, the Guggenheim Jeune Gallery,

Immordino Vreeland, delves into the world of the woman who amassed

showing works by Jean Cocteau and later Vasily Kandinsky, she was

the collection over the course of her life, devoted to sharing it with the

encouraged to dedicate her life to contemporary art (‘a living thing’)

world. The film, which premiered at the Tribeca Film Festival and features

by Samuel Beckett. She continued to collect works throughout the

on the program at Art Basel, is based on the lost 1978 recordings of

Second World War for the modern museum she had planned. ‘She

interviews between Peggy and Jacqueline Bograd Weld, author of the

was smart enough to ask Marcel Duchamp to be her advisor – so she

only authorised biography of Peggy, Peggy: The Wayward Guggenheim.

was in tune, and very well connected,’ says Vreeland. Peggy resolved

Vreeland re-discovered the tapes in a shoebox in Jacqueline’s basement.

to ‘buy a picture a day’ and acquired masterpieces by Piet Mondrian

‘There’s nothing more powerful than when you have someone’s real

and Salvador Dalí, only fleeing soon-to-be-occupied France with her

voice telling the story,’ Vreeland recounts at Tribeca. ‘You can tell it was

treasures after she had completed her purchase of Brancusi’s Bird

hard for Peggy… because she wasn’t someone who was especially

in Space. She later championed Jackson Pollock through the key

expressive; she didn’t have a lot of emotion.’

moments of his career, supporting him with monthly allowances and

Peggy was born in New York in 1898 into the Guggenheim fortune.

commissioning his largest painting, Mural. Without her patronage, the

A fortune acquired by Peggy’s Swiss grandfather, Meyer, who arrived

American abstract expressionist movement might not have thrived.

in the US in 1847 and succeeded in the mining industry. Peggy’s

Yet the sadness in Peggy’s life is an unavoidable theme in the film. She

uncle, Solomon, a prolific modern art collector, would go on to found

left Vail, who used to beat her, for English intellectual and war hero

the Guggenheim Museum. Yet her family name proved to be an

John Holms in 1928, giving Vail custody of her son Sinbad (but not

advantage that did not guarantee a carefree upbringing. Her father,

daughter Pegeen). Peggy married uber-surrealist Max Ernst in 1941

Benjamin Guggenheim, perished on the Titanic in 1912 – wearing

(whom she loved ‘because he was so beautiful and because he was

full evening dress, he and his assistant helped women and children

so famous’) but they separated two years later, divorcing in 1946.

off the ship, resigned to their fate and prepared to do their duty ‘like

She documented her own tumultuous personal life in a scandalous

gentlemen’. The family had already lost some of their wealth through

autobiography, Out of This Century: Confessions of an Art Addict.

Benjamin’s business ventures and the young Peggy felt stifled by her

Peggy was unabashed about revealing her many adventurous liaisons

regulated life in New York, fitting neither into her family nor her times.

with the likes of Marcel Duchamp and artist Yves Tanguy, which have

‘My childhood was excessively unhappy,’ she once wrote. She sought

since threatened to overshadow her artistic legacy. A default way of

out an alternative way of living, moving to Paris in 1921 and marrying

connecting with the important men in her life perhaps, driven by her

Laurence Vail, a writer and Dadaist who was part of the Parisian

complex childhood. ‘I think it was really [bold] of her to have been so

bohème that so enthralled her. Identifying with these outlandish and

open about her sexuality, this was not something people did back

freethinking artists gave Peggy a new lease on life in a way that was

then,’ says Vreeland. And yet Vreeland notes that despite the men

completely unconventional for women of her time.

that surrounded her, Peggy’s sense of loneliness and loss never really

Vreeland tells a weaving story of a strange and complicated woman,

left her – instead the void was filled, or displaced, by her beloved art.

dealing with a certain pain in her own way. Interviews with artists

A guiding force in recognising modern art’s greatest talents, Peggy

and art experts fill in the blanks. John Richardson, a biographer of

died in 1979 at the age of 81, clinging to every second of a life of

Picasso’s, plays a prominent role in telling Peggy’s story, and art world

reinvention. ‘It’s horrible to get old. It’s one of the worst things that

figures, such as Marina Abramovic and Larry Gagosian, speak of how

can happen to you,’ she said, ‘But I really felt I accomplished what I

her collection has influenced the current scene. Vreeland has form for

wanted to do, and I’ve done it very successfully, and I’m very happy

selecting subjects who are not accustomed to conforming. In 2011 she

about that.’ Thanks to Vreeland’s insight immortalised on film – ‘It

directed critically acclaimed Diana Vreeland: The Eye Has to Travel. As

was her ability to redefine herself in the end that truly summed her

Diana Vreeland’s granddaughter-in-law, Lisa had a close connection

up’ – and the lasting legacy of the rare collection of the most visited

to the story of the fashion visionary. Is Peggy her art world equivalent?

modern art in Italy, Peggy Guggenheim’s artistic legacy lives on.

All paintings are part of the Peggy Guggenheim collection. The Voice of the Air, image by Alinari Archives/Corbis. Peggy in her bedroom, image courtesy of Film Presence. La Baignade, image by The Gallery Collection/Corbis.

152

Peggy and sculpture, photography by Roloff Beny, image courtesy of Film Presence. Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, photography by Jon Arnold/JAI/Corbis. Untitled by Raoul Hausman, image by Alinari Archives/Corbis.

Peggy seen through a Pevsner sculpture in the 1950s

Palazzo Venier dei Leoni in Venice houses the Peggy Guggenheim collection

The Voice of the Air by Rene Magritte

Peggy in her bedroom at Palazzo Venier dei Leoni

On the Beach (La Baignade) by Pablo Picasso

Untitled by Raoul Hausmann

154

Ta l k ing P o i nt

Pat t e r n

Power

There is beauty in the small things: a symmetrically paved street, a ridged leaf, polka dot t-shirt or sun dappled cloud, everyday patterns that bring a moment of positivity or gratitude into our busy lives. Patterns inform much of the human experience, from our understanding of the world we live in – mathematics is the science of patterns – to the wonder of the natural world and the aesthetics of what we wear, eat and drink. By Natalie Trevis

Patternity co-founders Anna Murray and Grace Winteringham

Some people see pattern everywhere, from nature to art

noticing these patterns that we can begin to question

to science. Does a shared awareness of pattern have

how things came to be, or even predict what might

the power to positively shape our world? Anna Murray

happen in the future.’ For Anna, pattern is a common

and Grace Winteringham, co-founders of Patternity

thread that transcends the traditional boundaries

certainly think so. We sit down with Anna to discover

between science, art and technology. ‘Pattern is a

a world of everyday pattern. Patternity believe that the

commonality that has the power to unite…from simple

way we look at, hear or experience the small details

starting points such as the investigation of stripes

can enhance our understanding of the wider world.

or spots, to the unseen patterns like sound waves.’

‘We are all inherently pattern-seeking creatures,’

It tells a story on the runway too, whether in chaotic

says Anna Murray, whose company has grown from

abstracts cascading down a dress or neat geometric

an online pattern archive to include a research and

prints on accessories. It’s capable of providing a sense

consultancy department, award-winning creative

of identity and is one of the ways designers seek

studio and a pioneering events and education hub.

to give their work a unique signature. Think of Paul

‘People have learnt to understand and investigate the

Smith’s candy stripes, Matthew Williamson’s printed

world through identifying patterns, or indeed identifying

peacock feathers or Missoni’s zigzags. All instantly

where they have been broken or don’t exist. From

recognisable. And easy to engage with too. Each

shadows cast through railings on the pavement, to the

one us own an endlessly appealing Breton striped

Turing patterns seen on the skin of fish and cheetahs

top or checked shirt or simple pinstriped trouser. ‘For

- pattern is undeniably everywhere, and it is through

SS15, brands like DKNY and Jasper Conran used

simple horizontal stripes in sunny colours to create garments reminiscent of days at the beach,’ says Anna. ‘Rick Owens’ pieces reminded us of Brutalist concrete shapes, where the Boss collection showed more modern lines, sparking ideas of futuristic towering glass structures.’ Actress Drew Barrymore is a believer in the joy of hidden pattern. Her 2014 book of photography, Find It In Everything, examines the hidden heart shapes she sees everywhere she goes. ‘I have always loved

Collaboration with clothing line Chinti and Parker

hearts,’ she writes. ‘The way that one continuous line accomplishes the most extraordinary thing – it conveys love.’ Barrymore began seeing the shape in everything from litter on the ground to fragments of the light. ‘It was nature saying, ‘I love you’. It was a scientifically explainable moment that generated the international symbol of love…And that is why I try to find it in everything.’ That’s the positivity of pattern. Noticing a perfectly aligned shadow or the chaotic fractal pattern on a seashell can make you smile, feel connected to the world for a moment or offer a note of inspiration whatever your field of work. If you think about it, any of the five senses can experience pattern; even newborns respond better to high contrast graphic patterns in the first six months of life. ‘In a world overloaded by stimulation, patterns help to make sense of the chaos, helping us to become more mindful and more engaged with the everyday,’ says Anna. ‘We encourage people to notice the patterns that they walk over or pass in the street, eat, and even sleep and think in, in order to create a greater awareness of the world we inhabit.’ Staircase shadows on a ‘Patternitrip’ to Kerala, India in 2014

156

The ‘Patterniteam’ constantly seek to connect with and inspire each other, gathering each day for a round table meeting (at a perfectly striped SUM table made by co-founder Grace’s father, Toby Winteringham) and undertaking research expeditions around the world (patternitrips, of course). ‘Most recently, a trip to Lanzarote uncovered otherworldly volcanic landscapes and tropical flora and fauna. A visit Collaboration with furniture maker and marquetry specialist Toby Winteringham

to the César Manrique Foundation – celebrating the artist, architect, writer, ecologist and activist who successfully protected Lanzarote from overzealous and corrupt tourism developments that swept across the Canaries during the 70s – has since become a huge source of inspiration for us philosophically.’ Their work often crystallises in design collaborations, whether creating patterns for an ethical knitwear collection for Chinti & Parker, crockery for Richard Brendon or working with the Imperial War Museums to tell the story of the Dazzle Patterns that were used to camouflage battleships in the First World War. So look around right now, what do you see? The radial spokes on a fan or the grain of a floorboard, all little bits of pattern and order in a chaotic world. Patternity will keep on reminding us to see beyond the mundane. A thought especially relevant art and architecture that relies on geometric and vegetal patterns reflecting the underlying order and unity of nature. ‘The Middle East employs patterns in every day surroundings much more readily than in the West, so if anything there is a greater understanding of the power and influence pattern can have on a space, or the meaning it can imbue by its presence,’ says Anna. ‘Pattern is a universal language.’

Pattern is everywhere, even in the cracks in the pavement

All images courtesy of PATTERNITY

in the Middle East where we are surrounded by Arabesque

Photographed by AMBER GRAY

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