ISSUE 30 by MOJEH

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32 Chairman SHAHAB IZADPANAH

EDITORIAL

PUBLISHING

Editor in Chief MOJEH IZADPANAH

Publishing Director RADHIKA NATU

Associate Editor SHERI IZADPANAH

Publishing Assistant DESIREE LABANDA-GAVERIA

Managing Editor KELLY BALDWIN

Junior Publishing Assistant Kisada Hurin

Fashion Writer susan devaney

Paris Representative GHISLAIN DE CASTELBAJAC

Senior Editorial Assistant Natalie Trevis

Senior Advertisement Manager Pamela Bayram Cleave

MOJEH Men Group Christopher Prince

Advertising Inquiries Tel: +971 4 553 90 49 Email: advertising@mojeh.com

Guest Fashion Stylists James V. Thomas Marjorie Chanut Sofia Odero

Subscription Tel: +971 4 553 90 49 Email: subs@mojeh.com

ART

LOUIS FOURTEEN FOR MOJEH

Producer LOUIS AGENCY

Concierge Service Management ASSMA AHMED

Art Director AMIRREZA AMIRASLANI

Corporate Manager JUBRAN HAMATI

Graphic Designer Balaji Mahendran

Manager IT Division Ali Roman

Digital Strategy LOUIS AGENCY

Senior Stylist MARIAN GIRGIS

Contributing Photographers Cecile Bortoletti Julien Vallon Lionel Koretzy Marco Cella Mark Squires SARVENAZ HASHTROUDI

Cover photographed by Lionel Koretzky, model wears jewellery by Cartier, dress by Rami Al Ali.

Published under HS Media Group FZ LLC Registered at Dubai Design District Building No. 8, Offices 212 P.O.Box 502333, Dubai, UAE. WWW.MOJEH.COM Louis Fourteen for MOJEH Follow us on Twitter @MOJEH_Magazine MOJEH Swiss Representative Office: Rue de Rive 4, 1204 Geneva, Switzerland Average qualified circulation (January-June 2014): 14,184 copies. For the UAE printed by Emirates Printing Press LLC. Distribution- UAE: Al Nisr Distribution LLC. Qatar: Dar Al Sharq. Bahrain: Jashanmal & Sons BSC (C). Oman: United Media Services LLC. Lebanon: Messageries Du Moyen-Orient The publishers regret that they cannot accept liability for error or omissions contained in this publication, however caused. The opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessary those of the publishers. Readers are advised to seek specialist advice before acting on information contained in this publication which is provided for general use and may not be appropriate for the readers particular circumstances. The ownership of trademark is acknowledged, therefore reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. All credits are subjects to change. Copyright HS MEDIA GROUP FZ LLC 2011

M o j eh C o ntent s

SOCIETY 62. My Stylish Life On the eve of their relocation to the UAE, meet the stylish sisters Mariam and Dania Sawedeg behind fine jewellery brand Kamushki.

66. Alexa’s Style Agenda We’re well aware that Alexa Chung never puts a sartorial step out of line. She spills her style secrets to us in an intimate reveal.

68. Alpha Female Is he the ying to your yang? We discuss the alpha female, dating in the modern day and finding the best match in life.

72. Everyday Luxe

74. Designer Insight: Veronica Etro

From dressing supermodels to the world’s biggest

The Creative Director of the esteemed Italian fashion

celebrities, catch up with the design duo cousins

house gives us an insight into the family run brand and

behind Noon by Noor.

their pattern choices.

A B U D H A B I T H E G A L L E R I A A L M A R YA H I S L A N D D U B A I M A L L O F T H E E M I R AT E S D O H A V I L L A G G I O M A L L J E D D A H K H AY YAT C E N T E R R I YA D H C E N T R I A M A L L K U W A I T C I T Y T H E A V E N U E S P R E S T I G E M A N A M A B A H R A I N C I T Y C E N T R E S A K S F I F T H A V E N U E

40 Fashion 88. Tomorrow’s Tribe From kiss curls to glued on gems, we speak to Givenchy’s creative director Riccardo Tisci on his latest project that showcases modern beauty.

92. Fashion Banquets From Sherpa chic to robe du jour, we look to all four corners of the globe to draw inspiration for our winter wardrobes.

98. Fashion trends What will you be wearing this autumn? From the poncho to winter’s gypsy, peruse our edit of the best trends that graced the runway for autumn/winter 2015.

128. Colour Trends

146. Sonic Youth

From electric blue and blush pink to ash, embrace

How much is youth culture really influencing luxury

the eclectic new colour palette for the coming season

fashion? With brands such as Moschino and Alexander

to pack a punch.

Wang in mind, we delve a little deeper.

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152. Inside the Vision Go behind the scenes with creative director Karl Lagerfeld to see how he brought his Casino Chanel vision to life on film.

156. Echoes of Couture

167. Model Wall

Join us in Paris and Rome on a journey through

They are the runway’s newest faces and their stars are

fashion’s most exclusive collections for the autumn/

set to rise. Add them to your model roster for 2016 for

winter season.

some serious inspiration.

Fashion shoots 170. Making Tracks Escape from the hustle and bustle of city life and take to the Western plains full of nature with Christian Dior’s latest collection.

186. True Grit In a story that showcases the opulence found in the autumn collections juxtaposed against a gritty backdrop, we move from the studio to the streets.

44 ACCESSORIES 214. Accessory Trends From fuzzy kicks to doctor-inspired bags, discover the accessories you’ll be coveting come fall.

228. I Dream of Jeanne Her cool and crisp approach to style has landed the ‘new Parisienne’ Jeanne Damas the top spot in Roger Vivier’s new campaign.

238. All at Sea Van Cleef & Arpels’ latest High Jewellery collection takes us on a cruise of the Seven Seas.

242. Keep Me Close

246. Fall’s infinite fineries

We take a closer look at Archi Dior, the latest stunning

Cartier takes us to the seas with its new Étourdissant

jewellery collection by Victoire de Castellane.

High Jewellery collection. See our cover story in motion.

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46 Beauty 256. Hair and Beauty Trends

272. Clear The Air

Will it be berry-stained lips or power brows? We draw

As greenhouse gas emissions continue to rise and life

inspiration from the autumn/winter catwalk as your

in the city takes its toll on our skin, we look at ways to

beauty routine changes with the season.

protect ourselves from air pollution.

270. Moments with Julia Roberts

278. Blue Velvet

The mother and actress talks us through the things in

The electric blue feel of the 80s gets a revival in the

life that keep her looking and feeling good.

form of a modern make-up palette, thanks to Chanel.

CULTURE 290. New Lands The jet set is redefining high-end travel as we know it. Explore the new movement of the moment.

294. What’s Going On? There’s a style revolution happening in Paris and it’s the city’s youth who look set to lead the pack.

E d i t o r ’s L ette r

Fashion is in flux. It’s official: No longer does the business stick exclusively to the four fashion capitals and a roster of four seasons. This season alone we’ve taken flights from Dubai to Venice, Paris to Rome, London to L.A. and many, many more, each in hot pursuit of the creatives leading the industry. Main line and capsule collections have the potential to emerge anywhere, and at any time. When Tom Ford summons us to LA to fixate on his next collection, we go, no questions asked. Nicolas Ghesquière then asks us to follow him from there to Rome (and later this month London), to indulge in his thought-provoking Series Two and Three exhibitions for the house of Louis Vuitton. Ricardo Tisci surprises us during the menswear Givenchy spring/summer 2016 show by introducing the women’s autumn/winter couture collection on that very same stage. And on just his second collection for Italian house Gucci, Alessandro Michele re-roots from Milan to New York for the Cruise ‘16 showcase. The result? As illustrated in our trend edits for this September issue, inspiration is drawn from all four corners of the globe (high-seas included if you count Van Cleef & Arpels’ latest high jewellery offering), and collections are now more diverse and malleable than ever. Of course, this new ideology couldn’t sit more comfortably with the Middle Eastern shopper: a busy, well-travelled woman who needs her wardrobe to work for her both at home and away.

From top to bottom photographed by Julien Vallon, photographed by Mark Squires

Autumnal Aspirations

There’s a whole host of fashions speaking to all sentiments of this lifestyle. Autumn’s long, lavish over-coat, for example, is perfect as either a light-weight cover-up on a balmy Middle Eastern evening or as an additional layer for a tour de force through European cities in late autumn. The favourite hue of the season: grey. It’s worn head-to-toe in sequins against the extravagant open waters of the Arabian Sea as a back-drop, or contrastingly, it’s just as perfect in its soft and thick knitwear form thrown on as protection from the chill of early winter in Canada or Switzerland. From the narrow suit to winter’s Bohemian movement, the opportune is endless. What’s more interesting are the predictions that can be made on what these changes may mean for the future of fashion. As heritage brands start relocating their studios away from the fashion capitals – Saint Laurent and Tom Ford to LA for example – some deem it a loss, others an opportunity as atelier doors are left open for new talent. In ‘What’s Going On?’ we look at Paris’ new line-up as younger brands with varying perspectives pick up momentum. Similarly, ‘Sonic Youth’ questions who it is that’s really driving both trends and strategy as more designers appear increasingly obsessed with today’s youth. Finally, with Hedi Slimane’s most recent announcement of an entirely new ‘couture’ line for Saint Laurent, Rue de L’Université, fostering debates about elitism and re-imaginings of customary houses, we step into this season with yet another shake-up.

Follow me on Twitter and Instagram @Mojeh_I and write to me at editor@mojeh.com

Mojeh Izadpanah Editor in Chief

Photographed by Lionel Koretzy

Exciting, don’t you think?

E d i t o r â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s SN A P SHOT s

September style is all about embracing the new without letting go of the old. And so we move forward with a crisp, clean palette that flies the flag for the autumn ahead but intermittent with soft summer woes paying homage to the last days of soaring heat. Try city shorts teamed with soft silks and overcoats in bright and hazy shades.

B a l a n c i n g AC T

S t yl e N ote

I n F ocus :

They emerged in all their glory back in 2012 when the Rodarte sisters sent a plethora of fashion’s most famous faces down the runway in the bejwelled accessory. The ear cuff has only strengthened as a must-have accessory since.

Maybe it’s because we needed to fill a gap in the earring department, or perhaps it’s simply because we’ve fallen in love with it – but the cuff is still making us swoon. And it’s no longer just a fashion accessory – these days even high jewellery brands such as Piaget are adding dramatic cuffs to their collections. Fusing emeralds, diamonds and tourmaline, actress Scarlett Johansson was seen wearing one to the Oscars 2015. With a host of delightfully decorated pieces to pick from, they give any outfit a little edge. But how do you wear such a statement piece? Take note from Rodarte and team an embellished cuff with a sleek up-do for maximum impact, or opt to wear yours under tousled beach waves for a less-is-more approach à la Christian Dior. Similarly, turn to Tasaki for Thakoon who evoked a floral fusion of monochrome diamonds. However you wear it, just make sure to invest in a tough cuff.

Dior Ear Jewels, earring in gold-finish with white crystals and cream resin beads. To be worn on the left ear.

S t yl e N ote

Animal print is an autumn/winter staple, splashed across everything from coats and jackets to shirts and shoes in all its forms. This year, however, we’re looking to the smaller nuances that still pack a mighty big punch and sunglasses do just that. Available in a surplus of styles and hues, from Miu Miu’s new cut-off design and Dolce’s signature red frames to Prada’s thick rims, look to the Italian brands for small displays of the timeless print.

From top to bottom: PRADA, MIU MIU and DOLCE & GABBANA

B e a u ty N ote

N atural A ttraction There’s something comforting in smothering your skin in nature’s finest products. From caviar to clay, this year’s game-changing beauty releases borrow from Mother Earth for that extra special something. There’s a myriad of options available right now so you can treat your skin to elements derived directly from the ground. GUY MORGAN, Midnight Black Clay Mask | LA PRAIRIE, White Caviar Moisturising Cream | CHANEL, Le Lift Mask, with neroli extract Sphinx silver-plated coffee spoons by Robbe & Berking and linen by Gayle Warwick, all available at White Almonds. Gourmet House Private Collection Caviar, Dubai.

giuseppe zanotti design

Fall-Winter 2015

S t yl e N ote

W e l c o m e T o T h e J u n g l e

With a new season comes a myriad of changes across the design houses. None are more notable however than Alessandro Michele’s appointment at Gucci. With his first collection, the relatively unknown designer won over audiences in one fell swoop with a somewhat earthy reimagining of the house. We see him swap obvious allure for a more sensual aesthetic with generous offerings of soft fabrics, including lots of lace and wool. Motifs are derived from the animal kingdom – from lions and snakes to birds and his now emblematic bee – Michele makes us feel wild and free.

All, GUCCI

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S o c i ety B elles

My Stylish Life:

Mariam and Dania Sawedeg Mariam (l) and Dania (r) wear jewellery pieces from Kamushki and are photographed at Jean-Georges restaurant, Dubai.

Mariam and Dania Sawedeg are a beautiful breath of fresh air to the fine jewellery industry. With unique designs and an international outlook inspired by a lifetime of travel, their collections â&#x20AC;&#x201C; under the house of Kamushki â&#x20AC;&#x201C; inject a contemporary and attainable twist to the industry. On the eve of their relocation from Zurich to the Middle East, we met with the sisters to find out more.

Mariam Motto for life: Live in the now | Best Advice: Never have any regrets and learn from every experience whether it’s good or bad | Best teacher in life: Our father | Inspiration: When designing for Kamushki, definitely culture and visiting new places | Favourite person: My Uncle Ahmed | Next up on the bucket list: Establish our own charity foundation for Libya | Most cherished possession: A necklace from my late grandmother | Most looking forward to this month: My sister’s engagement party! | Lastest reading material: The Monk who Sold his Ferrari by Robin Sharma – it helped me learn not to regret anything in my past | Current song on repeat: No Scrubs by TLC | Favourite beach location: Forte dei Marmi in Italy | Ideal holiday: Winter in the mountains; I love being cosy | Favourite place in the world: Lugano, Switzerland | Best travel Partner: Dania! | Favourite Middle Eastern destination: We both really love Egypt as it has so much culture and is really inspiring | Favourite place in Zurich: A park by the lake. I go there to meditate | Favourite food: Libyan cuisine and Thai food | Go-to fashion brands: Versace, Dolce & Gabbana, Anthony Vaccarello and Thierry Mugler | Heels or flats: Heels | Style icon: Jane Birkin | Staple style: It always depends on my mood, I like to mix it up | Go-to denim: Seven Jeans | Bag designer of the moment: Paula Cademartori | Best shopping destination: Hong Kong | Favourite trend for AW: Boho and big chunky jewellery | Go-to hairdresser: Pastels and Posh Salon in the Address Downtown Dubai | Staple hairstyle: Au naturel | Favourite hair treatment: Intensive Keratin Treatment by Paul Mitchell | Best beauty brands: We actually both love Shu Uemura and Laura Mercier | Favourite lipstick shade: Sandwash Pink by Bobbi Brown | Must-have September nail colour: Burgundy | At-home beauty remedy: Drink green juice in the morning (green apple, spinach, celery and avocado) | Signature scent: Coromandel by Chanel | Workout: Five times a week | Obsession: Megaformer Pilates and Body Shape classes | Go-to running spot: By the lake in Zurich | Prefer to be: At sea.

dania Motto for life: Never dwell on the past and always live in the moment | Best Advice: Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t worry about what anyone else thinks of you, just live and love yourself | Biggest teacher in life: Our father | Favourite person: My mother | Goal for 2015: See Kamushki grow globally | Most cherished possession: A watch from my late grandfather | Lastest reading material: The Forty Rules of Love by Elif Shafak. It made me think about always being true to yourself and learning how to love | Current song on repeat: At Last by Etta Jones | Favourite beach location: Ayia Napa in Cyprus | Ideal holiday: Being by the beach on an island | Favourite place in the world: Zurich, Switzerland | Best travel partner: Mariam! | Favourite place in Zurich: Seerose, a restaurant by the Lake | Visited places this summer: Istanbul, Cairo, Cyprus, Dubai and Monaco | September destinations: London, Paris, Italy and Singapore | Favourite food: Libyan cuisine and Italian food | Go-to fashion brands: Givenchy, Dolce & Gabbana, MSGM, Emilio Pucci and Saint Laurent | Heels or flats: Sneakers | Style icon: Kate Moss | Staple style: Boho-chic with a hint of classicism â&#x20AC;&#x201C; I prefer to be relaxed | Go-to denim: J Brand | Bag designer of the moment: Nancy Gonzalez | Best shopping destination: London | Favourite lipstick shade: Rouge G de Guerlain in Matte | September nail colour: Nude | Sun-protection: Clarins | Health-tip: Drink lots of water and moisturise daily | At-home beauty remedy: Natural hair mask (castor oil, almond oil and argan oil) | Signature scent: Hypnotic Poison by Dior | Workout: Five times a week | Guilty pleasure: Eating burgers! | Supplements: Vitamin C, E, D, magnesium and zinc | Best exfoliator: Honey and salt on the face and then almond oil and sea salt for the body, at least once a week | Fitness obsession: Megaformer Pilates and running | Best running spot: The forest next to our house | Prefer to be: On land.

A le xa’s St yle A ge nd a

I n t e r n atio n al Icon

Alexa photographed on set of the new Longchamp campaign.

Citing ‘never say never’ as one of her more poignant styling rules, Alexa Chung plays by her own fashion rules. We caught up with the international fashion icon while shooting her newest high-fashion campaign for autumn winter. What makes the British born beauty so style savvy?

How would you define your style?

one with my face on it, but that will either

My style is a balance between the masculine

be fun or weird when it happens.

and feminine sides of my personality. For example, if I wear a pretty dress, I like to pair

Where does your incredible sense of

it with flats. If I’m in jeans however, I’ll wear

style come from?

a very girly blouse. It’s all about balance.

I just like how things look. I’m not afraid to try new trends or be laughed out of a room.

Do you remember when you first became

I also know myself very well so I think it’s a

interested in fashion?

mixture of those things. That and copying

It crept up on me. I was very particular about

my mother’s style without knowing it.

my school uniform and always wanted to look different to my classmates. Finding

For many people, you are the ultimate

ways to express my individuality when we

style icon. Who are your style icons?

all had to wear the same uniform became an

Patti Smith, Linda McCartney, Nico, Anita

enjoyable challenge. I hated when someone

Pallenberg, Kate Moss, Keith Richards and

had the same shoes or bag as me. Now I

David Hockney to name a few.

take it as a compliment, of course. What is your best fashion memory? How do you feel when you see yourself on

My first is attending the Met Ball with Phillip

an advertising hoarding or in a magazine

Lim. He is such a nice, warm man. He was

fashion campaign?

the perfect date and even made me a tuxedo

It’s pretty insane - I am on all the buses in

for the occasion. I couldn’t even believe I

London. My friend Lizzy from school owns

was invited.

a café and said she waves at me as I go by on the bus everyday. I have yet to travel on

You’re currently the face of Longchamp. What do you think you have in common with the brand? I think we share an appreciation for classic and timeless design as well as practicality and functionality without compromising aesthetics. Did you enjoy this shoot? It was great. We were in Miami surrounded by all the amazing murals and interesting graffiti. When you’ve been in the dreary NY weather for months, I was delighted to be shooting in sunshine next to palm trees. Which Longchamp bag is your personal favourite? I adore the smaller saddle bags they have this season. They come in a range of different colours but red and cream are my favourites. What do you always have in your bag? Bank cards, lipstick, phone and room key. I travel light. What item would you never, ever wear? I never say never.

Tal k ing P o i nt

Alpha Female Do you consider yourself Alpha? We explore a new breed of strong, evolved women who know what they want and are seeking love without settling. But is seeking our own Alpha match really working?

By Natalie Trevis

A Style Soliloquy, photographed by Riccardo Vimercati, MOJEH Issue 10

romance, marriage and children. I find this extremely sad when women aged only 28 share this concern. They can feel like they have messed up for being driven and successful.” But there is little reason that Alpha women should perpetuate this fear. According to a report from the Hamilton Project, over the last four decades marriage rates have either held constant or increased for the top 10 percent of female earners. More likely to marry at an older age, more college-educated women report themselves happy in their marriage than any other group, whatever the level of their family income, and they are much less likely to think that financial security is the main benefit of marriage. With every year that a woman delays marriage, up to her early thirties, her chance of divorce decreases (and does not rise again thereafter). Rather than conform to outdated standards, Rhodes in particular encourages women not to settle or compromise unnecessarily and instead to own their Alpha traits. “I will never advise women to bend over backward to boost a man’s self-image by playing down their strengths.

I’m a doer not a talker. I don’t hesitate to assert my

Those days are over,” she writes.

needs in a relationship. I’m happy in the spotlight. I

As for the complex and increasingly fraught issue

have an entrepreneurial spirit. Do these statements

of fertility, taking positive action may help to relieve

describe you? If so, it’s probably no surprise to

the pressure on dating, whether by freezing eggs or

hear that you have Alpha qualities. They have likely

considering a sperm donor or adoption. “If you want

helped you get to where you are today. Dr. Sonya

a baby, trust me, you’ll find a way,” Rhodes notes

Rhodes, a psychotherapist with more than thirty

matter of factly. There is no doubt a measure of relief

years’ experience, meets many Alpha women at her

can be found in taking these practical steps - it is

New York practice. But as she and Susan Schneider

often the case that planning for the future eases the

explore in their book, The Alpha Woman Meets Her

pressure on the present. “And then there are deeper,

Match, she has noticed a new phenomenon among

perhaps more emotional, psychological or spiritual

the self-confident, accomplished women that pass

ways,” says Katherine Baldwin, who is currently

through her doors – they are unified by a common

writing a memoir about her journey from age 40 to

complaint: “I guess I’m just your typical strong,

45, through what she calls the ‘baby gap’, which

overachieving woman with boy problems.” Despite

includes her adventures with dating and coming to

impressive careers and busy social lives these

terms with the fact that she probably won’t have

women remain fearful of having to tone themselves

children. “Finding acceptance, taking the pressure

down or even settle in order to find love – our culture

off and understanding that life will be okay with

prophesying that marriage may elude those that Lean

or without children. Understanding that happiness

In. “I feel like an evolved person. I have a great career

comes in many forms and making the most of the life

and great friends. I feel really strong in every part of

you do have rather than focusing on what you don’t.”

my life except relationships,” says one member of

While a rallying call to challenge the negativity that

Rhodes’ focus group. Perhaps we are looking for

surrounds assertive women is more than welcome,

love in all the wrong places.

one can’t help the niggling thought that these truly

“Many Alpha women believe that men are intimidated

evolved Alphas must be too busy running businesses,

by them or fear them as they know what they want

having adventures and generally taking life by the

and how to get it,” says Nicola Beer, relationship

scruff of the neck to worry about finding a man.

coach and founder of Pure Peace Coaching in Dubai

But if that is the missing piece of the puzzle, by

who, like Dr. Rhodes, works with women who excel

now we know enough to realise that the picture

as award-winning entrepreneurs or top finance and

perfect relationship many dream of only exists in

legal professionals. “Then there are those women

the fairytales of our childhood. “It’s our responsibility

who say that they don’t have the time or energy for

to understand that ‘perfect’ doesn’t exist and we’ll

a relationship. But when we look at ways to make

lose a lot of time if that’s what we’re looking for,”

more time and reduce stress the real fear comes up.

notes Baldwin. “It took me quite a while to accept

In fact, the fear many professional women have is

that I would have to compromise on some of the

the belief that it is too late – they have missed out

things I thought I was looking for. Once I opened

because they put their career before a relationship

up to compromise, I started to realise what was

and believe they have now ruined their chance of

important,” she says.

The starting point for every independent woman who is seeking a partner is someone who will love, value and respect her, regardless of his status, power or paycheck.

It seems that in order to find a new way of dating that gels with modern women’s goals, the traditional gender stereotypes associated with the terms Alpha and Beta must be altered. Culturally acceptable male and female behaviour is more about social norms than biology. And social norms can be changed. Maybe we’re not from the distant planets of Mars and Venus. Rather than seeing ourselves as aggregates of specific male and female characteristics, perhaps we should look at personality characteristics on an Alpha/Beta spectrum. We are all a combination of both types of qualities. On that premise, rather than seek an Alpha match, Alpha women should consider looking past the overly competitive, domineering Alpha male for a man (perhaps more Beta than she) who is not threatened by her strengths but is communicative, responsible, and collaborative. Katherine notes that Dr. Rhodes is not the only one to suggest that Alpha or successful career women should think about rejecting the outdated notion of ‘marrying up’. “I am in a relationship today with a man who, on paper, has had a less successful career The perfectionist nature that often accompanies an

than me and is much less ambitious professionally,”

Alpha female isn’t always an easy trait to overcome.

she says. “It has taken me a while to stop judging

“The media bombards us with images and scenes of

him on the areas in which I used to think he was

the perfect couple,” Nicola points out. “I remember

lacking - notably, career and ambition - and to value

being told by many of my girlfriends in my teens

him for all the wonderful qualities he does have and

and twenties that if a relationship isn’t easy then

the way he makes me feel.”

it isn’t meant to be. This false belief doesn’t help

Alpha women have naturally been operating on

those searching for the ‘perfect’ relationship. I

the premise that they would be better suited to

tell all my clients that perfect doesn’t exist and

someone just like them, who understands their drive

that they need to accept that imperfect is perfect

and ambition (indeed research shows that graduates

in relationships.” Alpha or not, in a fast paced

tend to marry someone of a similar education level).

world of online dating, casual meetings, ticking

“I tend to find in this situation, [relationship success]

biological clocks and the trials of encountering

depends solely on their values and expectations

serial commitment-phobes, the starting point for

for their lives,” says Nicola. “These couples work

every independent woman who is seeking a partner

extremely well together before children arrive and

is someone who will love, value and respect her,

after children have grown up. However unless the

regardless of his status, power or paycheck.

roles are clearly defined and agreed upon before

Drawing out the stories of different types of Alpha

starting a family, these relationships can explode

women through case studies, Rhodes offers

with extra responsibilities and pressure (work or

real world examples of how Alpha relationships

children). When you have two Alpha types in a

commonly fail or flourish. Reassuringly, while wholly

relationship there will inevitably be lots of friction,

supportive of Alpha women, she does call out a

arguments and fireworks. If two Alphas are already

few “imperious divas” along the way who may not

in a relationship together, those couples may

be helping their search for a partner by crossing

benefit from some communication and connection

the line between owning their Alpha status and

relationship coaching or workshops.”

narcissism. Recognising and addressing our own

If we want to take a different approach to tackling

overriding personality traits, for better or worse,

the intricate world of dating, the responsibility lies

is the key to defining just what kind of partner

on us as individuals to identify and perhaps refine

would make a great match. One of the most

aspects of our personality that may have an impact

revealing aspects of the book therefore is Rhodes’

on how, and whom, we date. All of which is good

100-point questionnaire, which determines just

news for the Beta males out there. “Cooperative but

where the reader sits on the Alpha/Beta spectrum

not compliant, accomplished but not a workaholic,

and therefore identifies the opposing Alpha/Beta

assertive but not confrontational. He is the man many

mix of her ideal partner (for example, dominant

contemporary women have been waiting for, but he

Alphas would relate to partners with high Beta

is not adequately appreciated in a culture where the

qualities). This is a fascinating insight that offers an

Alpha male has reigned supreme,” says Rhodes. As

opportunity for focused personal growth whether

we take a long hard look at the relationship we are

you are in the market for love or not.

really searching for, that may be about to change.

W o m en o f S ty le

Everyday Luxe

Backstage at the Noon by Noor AW15 show in New York

What are the sources of inspiration that you always find yourselves coming back to? Noor: Our culture continues to inspire our collections, which we infuse with Western style designs. We also draw a lot of inspiration from travelling, where we search for cultural elements that we can incorporate into our collections. Haya: Flowers are also another source of inspiration that we like to revisit each season. Embellishments are synonymous with Noon By Noor as well as the region so we are continuously finding new ways to include them. What elements of your personal styles do we see in your collections? Noor: We both like to incorporate elements of our own style into our Designers and cousins Noor Rashid Al Khalifa (l) and Haya Mohammed Al Khalifa (r)

designs, whether it be the embellished pieces that Haya loves or the tailored ones, which reflect my personal style. We’re not only cousins; we have been best friends since childhood, so naturally we never let

Popular with the likes of Olivia Palermo and Coco Rocha, Noon By Noor brings together a clean, tailored aesthetic with all the embellished drama of its Bahraini heritage. Founded in 2008 by cousins Noor Rashid Al Khalifa and Haya Mohammed Al Khalifa, the label has been a fixture at New York Fashion Week since 2012. We sit down with the designers to talk inspiration, style and sisterhood.

disagreements get in the way of making a magnificent team. We know exactly how to get around any problems we may face. Haya: Funnily enough, our design styles are almost the exact opposite of one another. The secret to our success is our ability to harmoniously blend our designs into one concept. Why is the US the best platform to present the Noon by Noor collections? Noor: We certainly understand and value the power of the US market and with NYC being the centre of the fashion industry, there was no

Do you remember what sparked your interest in fashion as a child?

question for us when choosing where to show. Bahrain, however, will

Noor: As a young girl I was fascinated by my mother’s closet. I would

always be our home.

spend hours on end admiring all the beautiful fabrics and designs, so it was clear from an early age that I wanted to be involved in fashion

We’ve noticed that Solange Knowles has been a big supporter

when I grew up.

of the brand.

Haya: We were both blessed with a lot of fashionable women in our lives

Noor: Solange is not afraid to take risks with her style. She can effortlessly

when we were growing up, so we found their personal style very inspiring.

mix prints and bold colours, which makes her a perfect example of the

It definitely helped to spark our interest in fashion.

Noon By Noor woman.

D e sig n er F o c u s

Designer Insight:

Veronica Etro Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s in a name? Everything, it would appear. Creative Director of the Italian fashion house Veronica Etro divulges the secret behind her familyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s success and that iconic Paisley pattern.

Who is the Etro woman in your eyes?

Your brand is a family-run fashion house.

The Etro woman is individualistic and

Why is this important to your business?

independent. She likes to play with fashion,

It’s a very unique environment because it’s

but she doesn’t take clothes too seriously.

not often that you can blend the personal with

In fact, I’d say she is more interested in style

the professional. As everything in the fashion

than she is with pure fashion, because she’s

world gets bigger and our company grows, I

cosmopolitan and a globetrotter. For her,

like the fact that family remains at the centre

clothing is a creative expression. There’s a

of it all. We work very closely together and

sense of freedom when she gets dressed.

we rely on one another to share ideas and

She follows her whims and enjoys the fantasy

discuss our vision. We are also able to make

and exoticism that fashion can bring. I design

very quick decisions without getting bogged

for a woman who is bold and isn’t afraid of

down in bureaucracy. Obviously when you’re

colour, or a touch of eclecticism. I want our

working with family members you can get

customer to be in love with little details– that

into heated debates over the lunch table, but

are sometimes hidden.Things like linings,

this honesty and openness is also probably

haberdashery, buttons, under collars, etc.

one of our greatest advantages. You’re in a safe place to push the boundaries.

Your AW15 collection is print heavy and opulent; what’s the message behind it?

Can you describe the process between

The inspiration was the world of home

you and your three siblings?

interiors, ornate wallpapers, rich tapestries

Designer Veronica Etro

and luxurious upholstery textiles, providing a

We are a very tight family and we share a common appreciation of our heritage, respect

new creative playground. I like the idea that

for our history and love for what our father

the opulence gets tamed with a new sense of

started. Everyone has their own individual

precision and an intimacy that feels cosy and

taste, but we have a very similar philosophy

warm. I called the whole thing ‘maximalism

dive more deeply into the research and this

of the brand and what it stands for. We all

under control’ as I remember when we were

begins to inform the development of the

share the same goals and the same vision.

putting together the patchworks, it looked

materials. We always start with the fabrics

a mess on the floor: hundreds of different

at Etro as this is the most important part of

What’s the secret to your family’s

jacquards, prints, etc. My aim was to create

our brand’s DNA. Each season we push new

success?

a patchwork without having the harlequin

techniques and new boundaries to create

We each have clearly defined roles inside

effect, choosing different patterns and

innovative materials and prints.

the company and this is fundamental to

keeping them tonal made it controlled.

our success. How do you push new techniques,

You’re known for your love of pattern,

boundaries and reimagine them?

How has the Paisley print changed over

why is this important?

Pattern is central to Etro’s past, present

the years?

A collection is six months’ worth of work and

and future. Every season, we take a new

My father began using the pattern in the

sometimes it is a little autobiographical; you

journey with the print. For me, it’s always

Eighties and it quickly became the symbol

obviously put some of your experience into

an exciting personal challenge to create

of the Etro brand. Its journey, over the course

the collection. I tend to leave it very instinctive

and new interesting patterns using different

of thousands of years, is very inspirational

(Panta Rhei and fluid) to let things flow rather

techniques. I love to discover an original way

to me. I love symbols that are rich in history.

than to give a theme at the beginning. I start

of looking at print; a fresh way of dealing with

Every season we develop and reinvent the

with an intensive research period and spend

it. It may be that I look back and resuscitate

classic Paisley design in new ways. It’s always

many months gathering images, swatches

a lost tradition or an ancient technique from

stimulating to deal with such a decorative

of fabric and taking notes of things that

the past, or I might look far to the future for

pattern as you can easily blend it with more

inspire me. The inspiration comes from

cutting-edge, high-tech processes that have

geometrical designs, mix with flowers, stripes

many different sources and it changes with

never been used before. It’s a challenge to

and polka-dots or work it with different

each collection: it could be a movie or a trip,

come up with something unique each season

techniques. Sometimes I look at it through

an exhibit I’ve seen, a book I’ve read or a

but taking a brand new voyage with every

a very classic lens and sometimes I like to

special corner of the Etro archives or even a

collection is what makes my job very exciting

completely revolutionise it. Either way, the

dream. Once the theme starts to emerge, I

and satisfying.

design remains very powerful.

Fa sh io n IN FO C US

High Haberdashery Inspired by a variety of designers from all four corners of the globe, fashionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fondness for cultural references continues to take centre stage. Invest in stand out jackets and eye catching shoes.

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Blush Away Softer shades have a certain kind of beauty. Ballroom skirts in peony, cashmere in salted caramel and shoes in baby blue all speak to your inner innocence.

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Femme Trench Nonchalant layering is teamed with statement accessories for a fuss-free approach. As adopted by Miroslava Duma, powdered down shades in old-forest, beguiling beige and formidable brown are the hues of choice.

DUBAI MALL, DUBAI CENTRIA MALL, RIYADH BOULEVARD MALL, JEDDAH

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Spanish Flair The beauty of the matador’s national costume inspires street style as we bask in the beauty of flared silhouettes, golden hues and heavily embellished accessories. It’s a win-win.

S t yl e N ote

O n T he W ish L ist

Modern Armour If Carolina Herrera gets her own way, she’ll have us preparing for battle in no time. Inspired by the legend of Camelot, King Arthur and his merry men, the CH Camelot bag is fashion-forward armoury in accessory form.

The making of the CH Camelot bag

From season to season, Herrera plays with prints, textures and cuts with aplomb – and it’s no different when she turns her attention to handbags. When you buy into the Herrera brand, one thing is a certainty on return: elegance. This touch is always felt from clothes and shoes to her must-have bags. Geometric in shape – with a classic cut – her latest design is simple in its appeal. Presented in an array of skins, fabrics and colour palettes, it can take your outfit from day to night with ease. Featuring olimpo and goya, leathers that are already synonymous with CH Carolina Herrera, they are combined with different hues and textures while keeping in mind the modern woman: two handle options allow the bag to be carried in 3 different ways. Worthy of accompanying the knights at the roundtable or carrying it to the next fashion-related battlefield, the Camelot bag is elegance for the everyday.

D e sig n er I ns igh t

t o m o rr o w ’ s

tr i b e

Riccardo Tisci is a man of many muses. From model Joan Smalls to the Chola girl gangs of America, for autumn/winter 2015, Givenchy’s Creative Director explains why finding unconventional beauty and keeping his Tisci tribe close are paramount to his success. By Susan Devaney

he says. These women have to match that ideal. His latest project, a creative collaboration with photographer Danko Steiner (showcased across our pages), exudes individualism and taste – much like the man in question. Having styled it himself, Tisci captures his muses channelling a sombre hybrid of Victoriana-meets-Chola. It’s centred around face bijoux: from sleek kiss curls and braids to septum rings and a face full of glued-on gems, it pushes youthful subculture to the forefront. “Jewellery makes a collection accessible to every woman regardless of her shape, age or budget and can transform the simplest of outfits into a strong statement. For me, jewellery is the finishing touch to a look.” All praise ‘Chola Victorian – she’s the boss of the gang’. With the visionary expertise of world-renowned makeup artist Pat McGrath (she’s worked with a host of notable designers and famously collaborated with John Galliano during the height of his term at Christian Dior), the palette itself is a juxtaposition of a natural base with tribal-esque face jewellery. It’s very dark, very Tisci. It didn’t just start here, though – Tisci has always waded into the dark side. When he arrived at the Styled by Riccardo Tisci, Photographed by Danko Steiner

Givenchy doors in 2005, the LVMH-owned label was adrift. His predecessors, Alexander McQueen and John Galliano, had moved onto bigger and

Each season, he lines up the most intriguing women

better things. Eradicating the Parisian elegance that

and as something Tisci knows all too well, the

had been synonymous with the brand since Hubert

casting of a collection can set a precedent for our

de Givenchy founded it in 1952, he pushed forth

current perception of beauty. From Natasha Poly to

his goth-infused edge and added street credibility.

Joan Smalls, he’s launched the careers of many a

Thanks to his vision, Givenchy’s parlous state

household during his 10 year tenure at Givenchy but

is firmly behind them and now, they’re in profit.

he’s not just looking for a clotheshorse or another

But this season the underground allure was more

pretty face; Tisci needs unique inspiration. He wants

intense than ever. “I used to consider myself dark

the women he chooses to grace his runway and

and gothic because everyone kept saying it, and I

their campaigns to breathe life into his work: “The

assumed it came from my collections being mostly

Givenchy woman is strong and confident. She has

black. Then I opened myself to colours, print, light

a real personality. She knows what she wants,”

fabrics and fluidity and I realised you can still be dark

and express it with light. I still have my dark side, but that won’t stop me from stepping away from black for a minute,” he says. From velvet dévoré dresses to waist-clinching corseted jackets, the mysterious Victorian era reigns supreme for A/W 15. Fusing chiffon, beading, lace and velvet with sheer craftsmanship, it is a reminder of his talents as a couturier. But Tisci hasn’t always had an easy path towards showcase his worth as a credible designer. He grew up in Northern Italy surrounded by eight sisters – something he credits to how well he understands women. “You know, I am the only son of a family of eight…you can imagine what it was like for me growing up!,” he proclaims. “I was always cared for by women. I had nine mothers in a way, and that is an exceptional way to bring yourself into adulthood. Today, we are still so close. I call them everyday. I love women so much, especially because of my relationship to my close family. I want them to feel special and beautiful all the time,” he says. After losing his father at the age of four, Tisci’s family never had a lot of money (he famously took the job at Givenchy to financially provide for them). The riches bestowed upon him were provided by for his family through love and support. By the age of 11, he left formal academia and enrolled in art school in Milan. However fashion never really entered his radar until he moved to London in the early Nineties. He’s spoken previously of his sisters’ belief that he would return home within months due to his lack of spoken English and money but incredibly he secured a place at London’s Central Saint Martins which paved the way to his career in design. After working jobs such as a club bouncer, branch manager for a high street chain and a buyer for a Japanese retailer, his talents were finally recognised in 2004 when he debuted his first A/W 05 Riccardo Tisci Collection during Milan Fashion Week to considerable applaud. Shortly

afterwards, he was offered the job with Givenchy. These days his values are still set on creating a sense of family everywhere he goes. “For me, models mean a lot because they’re not just presenting my collection; they’re really giving it life. I’m deeply bound to that idea. I’m always doing castings and I’m constantly looking for new girls. It is not that I want to find a girl , have her become the girl of the season and then drop her. I’m building relationships for years and years. I have my family and gang, whom we carry on season after season,” he says. Models Magdalena Jasek (a flame-haired Russian beauty) and 19-year-old new girl Sophia Ahrens (tipped to be his freshly appointed muse) have entered his fold, being photographed for his collaboration with Steiner. They’re strikingly beautiful, but unconventional – just the way he likes it. Both adopt a play-off between hard versus soft as they grace our pages. Moving from the styling of soft textures in blushed pink fur to more masculine tailoring in its fitted form, gender role blurring is prominent. “I have many muses, but I’d say my Audrey, the one who defines what my style is and fits my universe in every way, is Mariacarla Boscono,” he says with admiralty. The 34-year-old Italian model has graced his runway time and time again and, as seen through the eyes of Tisci, is a modern day Madonna. That’s the thing about the designer; he sees beauty where others might only see difference. “It was during the moment when all the top models were very tall with athletic bodies. But Mariacarla, she’s quite different. As she’s gotten older, she’s become more and more beautiful, but when she was very young, she had a very specific look, very particular.” It’s this idea of a gang that has acted as a catalyst for A/W 15. “I’m obsessed with America and Latin America; it’s all about the American dream,” he says. “When I was young, America represented for me a

mix of different people. Multi-culture is very important for me. New York is my obsession. For a country like Italy, there are so many restrictions on society, religion, of everything. America was always my dream. America is very powerful and is everywhere.” Finding inspiration from the Chola girls makes perfect sense. In the USA, the Chola-style is very popular and traditionally relates to a specific subculture of first and second-generation Mexican American girls influenced by hip-hop, and sometimes associated with gangs. Their desired look is all about hair and beauty: from dark lip liner to skyscraper bangs, less is not more. For Tisci, beauty doesn’t have a religion or colour. Conventional modes of beauty just don’t entice him. “Fashion and society in general shouldn’t have barriers on sexuality, skin colour, ethnicity and age. One should be free to express ideas; one shouldn’t be scared to experiment. Lea T embodies all of this, and reflects completely my universe,” he says. Tisci has long championed the career of transgender model Lea T. Before Lea’s

2005 set the benchmark of gothic girls – girls with a

transition they were friends, and still are now. At first,

different edge. And it’s his modern day muses who

some people were against a couture house using a

evoke his vision. “Some people probably find the

transgender woman in a campaign but Tisci didn’t

idea of a muse outdated, but I think it’s so beautiful.

listen. When he changed the format from fashion

Being a man designing for a woman, I think it’s

show to a portrait at the Place Vendôme in Paris

so great to get an opinion from a real woman. It’s

he used Lea T, along with nine other models – his

my only dream and it’s beautiful to make a dream

10 women, all exclusively contract-bound to him.

become reality,” he says. “But you know, it’s not

Today, she’s a full-time model with campaigns and

only me. Looking at the past: Gianni Versace with

contracts. 40-year-old Tisci trusts his gut. Against

Naomi Campbell, Alexander McQueen with Kate

others advice, he took a gamble and dressed Kim

Moss, Audrey Hepburn with Monsieur Hubert de

Kardashian’s curves for the Met Ball, opting for

Givenchy, Monsieur Saint Laurent with Betty Catroux

a full-length floral (maternity) gown. He was also

– everybody had their muse. I think a designer needs

her designer of choice for her gown for her highly

a woman who really inspires him, someone who

anticipated wedding to Kanye West. For him, it’s

really has a style and gives him an opinion about it.”

simple: beauty is beauty, and friends are true friends.

Tisci has created a different silhouette and a different

Gender-blurring and racial diversity are paramount to

way of dressing by discovering beauty in those

Tisci’s vision. More importantly, they’re prerequisites

inspirational women who are different. It’s fair to say

to be part of his pack. His first couture collection in

his constellation of muses always orbits his world.

Fallâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s New Formal

Fa sh i o n ban q ue t

Prada

As many of us continue to jet to warm islands and sun-lit cities for September, colour remains a buzzword. Destinations such as the Dominican Republic, Spain and Rome invade our wardrobes and our minds, leaving us craving tangerine silk, sapphire satin and fiery opal chiffon.

3 4

7 6 8

Robe Du Jour

bouguessa

The style of the arabesque woman is no longer geographically confined and a plethora of belted robes for day, evening and every fashionable moment in between filter on to the runways. The finer details are distilled into slender overcoats in luxurious cashmere, velvet and jersey.

1 3 2 4 6

Sherpa Chic

Ch carolina hererra

The F in Fall stands for fabrics this season as we see an array cut to perfection in both wispy and sharp silhouettes. Go full fluff in a plush Marni jumper or pocket away your troubles in a lightweight Carolina Herrera parka - its all about movement, warmth and ease.

3 1

2 4

Fa sh i o n TRENDS

AW15

Altuzarra AW15

100 1

Autumn Gypsy Summerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s high-bohemia movement takes on a frostier form as white lace frocks look frozen in time and leafy hues recall Mother Nature.

102 1

Frock Coat Fancy Floor-sweeping styles make a comeback in both functional thick fabrics to shield you from harsh European climates and lighter styles that are perfect as Middle Eastern cover ups.

1. BALMAIN | 2. ELISABETTA FRANCHI | 3. EMILIO PUCCI | 4. JOHN GALLIANO

104 3

High Voltage A revolutionary array of sequins are scattered across the collections to give way to new-age shimmer. High contrast, high colour and high fashion.

106 1

Debutante Dance Nod towards the traditional days as low necklines, princess shapes and off-theshoulder cuts make a big comeback in a wealth of new-age fabrics.

108 1

Button-Up Ornamental in some cases and oversized in others, what was once a mere function now becomes a fashion feature as buttons take centre stage.

110 1

1. CÃ&#x2030;LINE | 2. PROENZA SCHOULER | 3. ACNE | 4. ANNE SOFIE MADSEN | 5. JIL SANDER

Twisted Tailoring From flat pockets on jersey tops to slashed sleeves and zig-zag skirts, move away from the conventional silhouette towards a more deconstructed style.

112 3

Valley of the Dolls A fresh offering of baby doll dresses convey more strength than fragility in a range of variations from ruffled and belted to ultra-short and polo necked.

114 1

No Rules Stripes are put to the test in head-to-toe looks and clashing forms. Wear horizontally, vertically, diagonally or all three â&#x20AC;&#x201C; thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no hard or fast rule here.

1. BYBLOS | 2. JONATHAN SAUNDERS | 3. CÃ&#x2030;DRIC CHARLIER | 4. SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

116 1

Velvet Regalia Winterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most opulent fabric is reinterpreted this season in shades of bashful burgundy, duck blue and amethyst, offering a vintage feel to eveningwear.

118 1

Young Victoria The brooding romance of the early 19th century resurfaces with a cool and contemporary feel as designers such as Altuzarra and Thom Browne borrow from the era.

120 3

Under Wraps The poncho makes an unabashed comeback as a stylish alternative to jackets and shawls. Whether Pocahontas-inspired or more lady-like, it’s a seasonal must.

122 1

Collision Course Canary Baroque meets English herringbone in an eclectic mix of patterns that merge together to make unique and memorable ensembles.

124 1

Straight and Narrow Power suits, smoking jackets and shawl collars thrill in ultra-fitting proportions from high-necked to low-cut, exuding an endless aura of confidence.

1. AGANOVICH | 2. BOSS WOMEN | 3. PRABAL GURUNG | 4. RALPH LAUREN

126 3

Full-On Fur All-encompassing is the only proportion worth playing with this winter as a perennial favourite which hit the runways in an assortment of audacious shades.

128

AW15

c o l o u r TRENDS

Gucci AW15, photography by Kevin Tachman

130 1

Sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Electric Often known for its tranquil tones, blue is revived in a flowing pantone of hybrid variations of electric, cerulean and azure.

132 1

Modern Minerals Shades of dusk, blush pink and lukewarm lilac combine to offer a selection of soft and feminine neutrals.

134 1

Saffron Spice The flavour of our region is as sultry as it is demure in this array of styles from light daywear to deeply-hued eveningwear.

136 1

Grey Area In shades of dove to ash, the mid-way colour claims a powerful presence on everything from two-piece suits to feminine kaftans.

138 1

Ruby Riot From silk cocktail dresses to taffeta trench coats, this is the seasonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most potent hue. Whether worn with strength or sensuality, ruby works for every woman.

140 1

Regality Rules Shades of bronze and gold meld into a powerful pool of metallic tones, plunging both day and eveningwear into a royal affair.

1. DONNA KARAN | 2. DRIES VAN NOTEN | 3. ETRO | 4. TEMPERLEY LONDON

142 1

Emerald Evolution From Balmain and Julien Macdonald to Christopher Kane, emerald tones materialised across a wealth of collections in both contemporary and more traditional designs.

144 1

The Warhol Effect In Warholâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s world, anything is possible. Think clashing prints, triangular motifs, monochrome flora and bold psychedelic lines.

146

Tal k ing P o i nt

Fashion with attitude at Alexander Wang AW15

S o n i c

Youth By Natalie Trevis

As we stockpile Moschino’s Looney Tunes sweaters and consider how to work Alexander Wang’s neo-goth movement into our wardrobes, we pause to consider just how much youth culture is influencing luxury fashion. Sometimes it seems that our society is obsessed

“These days we live longer, we have the

with youth. We are bombarded with products,

expectation of enjoying youthful health and

images and instructions on how to look youthful

culture, and there are ways and means of

and remain as energetic as teenagers on a daily

making your face and body look younger

basis. We adopt the latest trends in exercise,

for much longer,” says Ruth Adams, Senior

diets and fashion as ardently as if discovering

Lecturer in Cultural & Creative Industries at

these things for the very first time, and our

King’s College London and an expert in youth

cultural icons and references align with those of

subcultures. “There is a great emphasis on

generations much younger. Even the innocent

putting off old age for as long as possible and

question of ‘how old are you?’ has taken on a

I think dressing younger is part of that. I don’t

new significance. Research by Professor Robert

see why women should be constrained by their

Harrison of Stanford University concludes that

age and their choice of clothes.” And it doesn’t

for the first time in history we are getting younger

stop with our image. Everything from the

as a society, even as we continue to age. “The

holidays we take (The Balearics, naturally), to

young have become a model of emulation for

our sports pursuits (FlyBarre), food faddism and

the older population, rather than the other way

social media habits are driven by a generation

around,” he notes. We are living in an age of

of increasingly young designers, musicians,

juvenescence. Nowhere is this more visible

models and influencers.

than in fashion. As the AW15 luxury collections

Lest we become clichés of every cultural fad of

spill over with street style and youth culture

2015, we can at least cultivate a healthy sense

references, from Jeremy Scott’s lurid cartoon

of irony. The childish tropes we see designers

faces for Moschino and the return of grungey

adopting undoubtedly have a tongue-in-cheek,

plaid to the eclectic march of Gucci’s sensitive

sardonic element to them. Fashion has long

literati girls and boys, the allure of youth has cast

employed humour as the ultimate Meta rebellion

its spell over the hallowed fashion elite.

- aren’t we all having the last laugh? “Moschino

“There is something about the optimism of

has always had an element of satire in his

cartoon-pop or sport influenced design: there

work,” Adams notes. “I remember he produced

is a youthful energy to it,” says Jonathan Kyle

a jacket in the early Nineties that said ‘Waist

Farmer, Professor and Chairperson of MFA

of Money’ on the waistband. He was always

Fashion Design at the Fashion Institute of

sending up high fashion and blurring those

Technology’s School of Graduate Studies in

boundaries. I think it is to do with the culture of

New York. “It feels young and it feels light. We

youth…people’s youth is stretched and I think

need that optimism in fashion because it can

the fashion reflects that.” A wry self-awareness

be a very heavy industry and a very serious

of the ridiculous rewards us with a certain kudos

one. I think what it represents is possibility.”

that the young-at-heart still covet today. Just

A sense of playfulness manifests everywhere

ask Madonna.

from Fendi’s furry doe-eyed bag bugs to Anya

Today, Alexander Wang is the unofficial

Hindmarch’s supermarket sweep Frosties

ringmaster of all things youth inspired in fashion.

handbag emblazoned with Tony the Tiger. If

His skillful touch with high-tech fabrics, bodycon

we are fighting a battle to keep a sense of

silhouettes and desirable urban accessories

childhood nostalgia out of fashion, we are losing

have made him the designer that young people

– and perhaps that’s half the fun as we grow

want to wear and that other designers (and their

older (dis)gracefully.

accountants) want to emulate. “Because trend-

148

led fashion has become the norm, fashion-forward

more traditional design houses like Balenciaga, Dior,

youth markets, in order to be ‘leaders’, are pushing

even Hermès,” says Fowler. “Take the Dior runway

further into the luxury market,” says Julia Fowler,

sneaker – retailers can barely keep them in stock,

co-founder of EDITD, a real-time market data and

despite their price tag.”

analytics tool for the fashion industry. “Contemporary

Fashion has democratised and, in doing so, has

luxury designers speak directly to their interests and

opened up to ever-expanding geographies and

budgets. The average price of an Alexander Wang

increasingly younger customer demographics.

apparel item is currently $358. Compare that to

“Online retail has had a major impact on the

Christian Dior at $734 or Prada at $526 and you

consumption of fashion,” says Fowler. “The average

can understand the whole mid-tier of luxury opening

consumer is now incredibly clued up about fashion

up.” While always seeking to innovate and lead,

and trends. Just look at the way runway shows are no

fashion must also serve demand. “It’s about what

longer ‘industry only’ – the whole world can livestream

people want right now. It’s not what you are doing

online. Luxury brands understandably want to cater

as a designer, it’s whether you are responding to

to the new customers on their radar, and this has

what people are looking for,” says Farmer. In an

seen younger elements being incorporated into their

age where consumers lead active lifestyles and

ranges, as well as an increase in merchandise and

consider themselves younger for longer, it makes

building into categories like accessories and jersey.”

sense that sport, streetwear and youth culture filter

This undoubtedly translates into sales. According

upwards into high-end fashion. “This has influenced

to American Express, Millennial spending in full-

Jeremy Scott’s modern day Moschino worships and parodies street culture all at the same time

priced online luxury retail grew more than any other demographic in 2011 (by a staggering 31percent).

Bag Bugs at Fendi SS15

Yet Wang, for one, is not content to communicate his youthful vision solely in the mid-market. His particular moment of transcendency occurred upon his appointment in 2012, aged 28, as creative director of the esteemed house of Balenciaga – once a couture giant that only the likes of Christian Dior and Chanel could rival. The move made him the first American designer to take a role at a major Parisian house since Louis Vuitton ordained Marc Jacobs in 1997. If Wang’s early collections for Balenciaga were anything to go by – sleek, challenging silhouettes and a SS15 collection inspired by the Tour de France – this move signalled a tidal wave of change, not only in the front row but in the demographic of consumers buying into the more traditional forefathers of high fashion. In Wang’s case, the Balenciaga adventure was short lived and the house has recently announced an amicable split. Whether Wang’s departure is down to the unending pressure of helming two major labels, his irreverent version of Balenciaga’s heritage failing to resonate, or simply the expiry of his contract, it’s clear that both sales growth and consumer perception during Wang’s tenure remained remarkably positive. Whatever the reason, the ripples caused by young cutting-edge designers taking over at established houses – and in so doing representing a generation’s style continue to spread ever further. Consider the success of Hedi Slimane’s Saint Laurent, which now finds its home in youth-obsessed LA. Something of a Renaissance man, the designer’s photographic lens more often than not finds a steady stream of exuberant young rockers as subjects, reflecting an edgier aesthetic than the Yves Saint Laurent of the past. And even a glancing look at Jonathan Anderson’s campaigns for Loewe, particularly his SS15 debut shot by Steven Meisel, show a deliberate move away from the glossy celebrity images of previous seasons and towards a pared back realism in which a group of young intelligentsia lounge on the beach in a living recreation of an Alex Katz painting. As the designer told The New York Times: “In my own brand, I exercise fashion. If I’m going to be challenged in a different way, it has to be about a cultural landscape.” Add into the mix the cinematic yet offbeat AW15 campaign of Alessandro Michele’s Gucci shot amidst the crowds of everyday New York and a languorously youthful theme is evidently clear. It’s a movement that is gathering momentum and which reveals that the ‘grown-ups’ no longer dictate from above. Today the conversation is peer to peer. Olivier Rousteing was appointed creative director of Balmain aged just 25 in 2011 and, notably through social media, very visibly aligned the brand with celebrity culture, a new generation of supermodels and a fierce take on glamour that remains just on the commercial side of real rebellion. The fine jewellery industry is experiencing a similar diversification, too. Hollie Bonneville Barden’s stellar rise at De Beers, for example, saw her take the

Student-chic at Alessandro Michele’s Gucci AW15

150 Paris street style comes complete with hashtags

reigns as head designer at the age of 27, bringing innovation and fresh eyes to an exceedingly traditionalist heritage brand. Likewise at Buccellati, fourth generation designer Lucrezia Buccellati stepped up as joint creative director of the Italian high jewellery house last year

Models, actresses and the young and the beautiful populate every front row at fashion week (Chloé SS15)

aged 24, a move which coincided with a rebranding and the introduction of pieces at a (relatively) lower entry point as well as bejewelled tech accessories. “I do think fashion is changing massively on every level in terms of its output,” says Farmer, citing the stepping down of Donna Karan and the changes in heads of department at key fashion institutions such as Central Saint Martins and the Royal College of Art as examples of the gradual renewal of fashion’s old guard. Karl Lagerfeld, Giorgio Armani and Miuccia Prada may similarly be facing succession quandaries in the coming years. “I think the whole industry is like a snow globe right now, it has been shaken up. We’re just waiting for these little particles to fall and land so we can make sense of it. There is this definite undercurrent of youth that is pushing its way forward at last. It needed to happen,” says Farmer. But who are the contemporary cliques prescribing what’s in and what’s out today? “It’s a lot more says Adams. “You go back to the Nineties and there were many more visible tribes.” Rather than goths, punks and hipsters, it is not specific groups that hold sway over the zeitgeist today but wider movements, like hip-hop or the cult of the music festival (with its own distinct uniform of flower garlands and ankle boots). Fernanda Hin Lin Ly adds a touch of punk (and pink) to the Louis Vuitton AW15 runway

The codes of these youth-adopted movements infiltrate fashion from high to low like so much dispersing pollen. “Pre-Internet, I think there was time for street and youth cultures to grow and develop on their own terms before they were picked up,” says Adams. “But now I think they are expressed and shared on the Internet, which means they are transmitted and commodified very quickly…I think there might still be subcultures but I don’t think they exist in the same way that they used to.” In the fast fashion era, there is a waning commitment to political, music-based or fashion tribes that require high maintenance dedication to a ‘look’. Instead we seek out the visual language of easy movements that offer instant beauty and a sense of belonging (a normcore aesthetic or a Kenzo sweater). But in the absence of any underlying values, these alliances often fall short of genuine subcultures and risk fading as quickly as ephemeral fads. “It’s a lot easier to have diverse tastes today. Commitment to particular cultural positions has diminished,” Adams concludes. If our kitsch cartoon references and Frankenstein boot obsession is to be as fleeting a phase as the bandage dress, it’s possible that a return to refinement is just around the corner. So will the power of the iGeneration start to wane? It seems unlikely. The Ipsos Mendelsohn Affluent Survey estimates that in the US alone there are 11.8 million Millennials aged 18 to 30 living in households with annual incomes exceeding $100,000. With $200 billion in direct purchasing power ($500 billion including

Backstage and runway images courtesy of Gorunway. Street style images courtesy of IMAXTree and Valentina Frugiuele. Chloé front row courtesy of Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images.

problematic and diffuse now than it used to be,”

indirect spending through influencing their parents),

not be fashionable,” predicts Farmer. “Maybe a

Unity Marketing predicts that we can expect

more retrospective, vintage, classical approach

this demographic to take over as the largest

to fashion design and aesthetics will take over.”

generational segment in the luxury consumer

Whatever fashion incarnation arrives next, and

market by 2018. “Fashion rarely stagnates,” says

whoever is driving it, with a slew of hungry new

Fowler. “It’s an industry driven by newness. The

designers at the helm and a widening demographic

most creative areas of the industry will always

of fashion consumers, the ride will surely prove

push into new frontiers. We’re seeing brands fold

exhilarating. “The exclusivity is part of what

their diffusion lines in order to retain their luxury

makes fashion so exciting. It’s not obtainable,

status and designers will certainly kick back

you have to work hard to find it,” says Farmer.

against mass-market adoption when it’s deemed

Whether we continue to buy into youth-driven

to have saturated. We’re already seeing that in

luxury because it harks back to our childhoods,

the global traveller trend that’s coming through

extends a lengthening kidulthood or simply

- this is the luxury industry’s way of showing that

makes us laugh, fashion will continue to change,

their research stretches far and wide, their fabrics

adapt and reflect our times back at us. “For me

are unusual and nuanced and their techniques

clothing has more to it than being fashionable,”

are artful.” The reinvention will continue. “I can

muses Farmer. “Fashion is about informing and

pretty much guarantee that in the next five to

designing things that people want to wear and

ten years this sportswear-led high fashion will

keep forever.” Maybe that’s just part of growing up.

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B e h i nd th e Scene s

Inside the Vision

Chanel Haute Couture AW15. Behind the scenes images by Olivier Saillant.

Karl Lagerfeld took a gamble that paid off for Chanelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s AW15 Haute Couture collection, captivating the fashion elite with a high stakes journey to Casino Chanel. We take a look behind the scenes at how this vision comes to life on film. Photographed by Karl Lagerfeld

Karl Lagerfeld is a man who sees haute couture from the promise of a blank piece of paper awaiting the first pencil stroke of a design to the finale applause of the fashion elite who later gaze upon the handcrafted designs like so many works of modern art. Little wonder then that the designer’s signature Cartesian talents extend to shooting the images that will represent the collection. “What I like about photographs is that they capture a moment that’s gone forever, impossible to reproduce,” he once proclaimed. And yet in that moment so much is revealed. Vanessa Moody moves in a way that is classic Chanel, just like muses from Inès de la Fressange to Stella Tenant before her. Her poses are demure and yet the tomboy hairstyle and artfully asymmetric hemlines of cascading but controlled dresses ensure that the images are in no danger of slipping backwards in time. Perfectionist to the end, a tumbling trapeze coat in lace, festooned with torn chiffon blooms and pearls hidden at their core, is worked on

154

lovingly by magical hands in between takes. With a futuristic classicism at the heart of the AW15 Haute Couture collection, a stark backdrop and subtle lighting is all that is required to draw attention to the craftsmanship of these oneof-a-kind designs. The iconic Chanel jacket steps into an ultramodern 3D future courtesy of a selective laser sintering technique (the printer in point affectionately named Sweetie by Chanel insiders). Paint techniques, beaded embroidery, satin linings and leather braiding all highlight the intricate detailing and craftsmanship synonymous with the art of couture. Silhouettes reveal a strength of form that originates in masculine touches: buttoned epaulettes hint at military sensibilities, while shortened sleeve lengths and bold shirt cuffs evoke a certain bold fearlessness. A dark decadence exudes the collection and finds itself embodied in each one of the images. Because Lagerfeld sees his vision as clearly as a prophecy - from beginning to end.

The iconic Chanel jacket steps into an ultramodern 3D future courtesy of a selective laser sintering technique, the printer in point affectionately named Sweetie by Chanel insiders.

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Ha ut e C o u tu r e Edit

Echoes of Couture

As fashionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s pinnacle of craftsmanship, exclusivity and sartorial beauty, Haute Couture is not just in the business of selling clothes but also dreams. Haute Couture A/W 15 week in Paris kept us all dreaming Valentino AW15 Haute Couture

for a little longer â&#x20AC;&#x201C; here we chronicle our highlights.

Julien Fournié AW15 Haute Couture

Rami Al Ali’s genteel collection chimed perfectly with the Empire Room at La Maison Champs Elysées.

A season of gilded sensibilities at Elie Saab.

regality reigns

Imperial Rome revived as Renaissance art and historic treasures leap out from the Valentino moodboard.

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Romantic floral crowns and ethereal, unstructured gowns show the softer side of Atelier Versace.

floral heights

A street style statement in which artfully clashed florals pay tribute to summer.

Our street style photographer captured Candela Novembreâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s take on florals displayed on a tangerine maxi dress.

intricacies

Tumbling florals with a graphic edge burst across this Giambattista Valli gown.

Intricate details abound this season. Marvel over eerily beautiful chainlink beading by Chanel.

Azzedine Alaïa’s crocodile leather jacket belongs with Caravaggio’s art at Rome’s Galleria Borghese.

Hair is lovingly worked into elaborate forms at Stéphane Rolland.

A Couture Kind of Matrimony

160 An expectant atmopshere behind the scenes at Ralph & Russo.

Maison Margiela Haute Couture AW15

A street style bridal vision.

Karl Lagerfeldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bride wears the trousers at Chanel.

Models take a walk through before the Lan Yu show in Paris.

Oversized separates add a modernist air to Giambattista Valliâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tiered bridal ball gowns.

The veil is made redundant by a filigree crown at Elie Saab.

162 Luminous skin and dots of blue eyeliner echo luxurious simplicity at Luigi Borbone.

One of a kind beauty

A slick of black eyeliner is all that is required at Giambattista Valli.

Valentinoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s regal goddesses are an ode to expert highlighting.

Gwyneth Paltrow and Valentino Garavani chat before the standing ovation at Valentino.

Atelier Versace AW15 Haute Couture

Natasha Poly and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley at Atelier Versace.

friends in couture

Juliette Binoche, Ben Foster, Robin Wright, Roberta Armani, Kristin Scott Thomas and Sonam Kapoor sit front row at Armani PrivĂŠ.

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Colour bomb

Fearless brights hit the streets of Paris.

Naomi Campbell and Irina Shayk work colour blocking at Atelier Versace.

Rani Zakhem Haute Couture AW15

Armani Privé revels in a distinctly Eighties ambiance in a show entitled ‘Shocking’.

Cobalt face paint is a work of art at Maison Margiela.

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Couturely minimal

Eschewing the elaborate, Bouchra Jarrar translates couture workmanship into modern simplicity.

Giambattista Valli AW15 Haute Couture

Raf Simonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s monastic muses at Christian Dior.

Wall M

From fashionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new muse to the get-in-shape girl, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a fresh crew on the catwalk. Their star status is set to rise, so add them to your model roster for 2016.

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The Exotic Zeitgeist

N e w Fac es

Name: Cristina Piccone Age: 24 Place of birth: Monterrey, Mexico Heritage: Mexican Current location: New York Agency: Paragon, Why Not and Premium Models Place of discovery: While accompanying a friend to a casting held in Mexico, one of the photographers recognised Cristina’s potential. Breakout moment: Walking for Celine SS15. Defining feature: Her exaggerated features, and slender face. Best moment of 2015: Photographed for the cover of ‘Harpers Bazaar’s’ Latin America Issue in July. Social media: @crispiccone

Future Style Maven

MOJEH loves: Her mesmerizing dark brown eyes.

Name: Antonina Petkovic Place of birth: Cacak, Serbia Heritage: Serbian Current location: New York Age: 18 Agency: Society/Elite Model Management Place of discovery: Winning third place at ‘Elite Model Look’ in Serbia. Breakout moment: The Celine SS15 Show/Vogue Espana Editorial Defining feature: Her signature messy bob and doe-like eyes. Best moment of 2015: Walked in the Chanel 2015 Pre-fall Show Social media: @antoninapetkovic MOJEH loves: There’s not a high profile style blog she’s not graced.

America’s Sweetheart

Name: Grace Hartzel Age: 19 Place of birth: Zionsville, Indiana, United States Heritage: American Current location: New York Agency: DNA Model Management and ULLA Models in Holland. Place of discovery: While dining at a Cheesecake factory in St. Louis. Breakout moment: Walking in Raf Simon’s début Haute Couture show for Dior. Defining feature: Her big blue eyes Best moment of 2015: Hedi Slimane apparently created his complete autumn/winter 14 collection on her. She is also the new face of Saint Laurent’s SS15 eyewear campaign following on from her successful Saint Laurent Pre-fall campaign. Social media: @graciehartzel MOJEH loves: She’s obsessed with anime, the Japanese style of cartoon

Givenchy’s New Muse

animation.

Name: Sophia Ahrens Age: 19 Place of birth: Hamburg, Germany Heritage: German/English Current location: New York Agency: DNA Models Place of discovery: Aged thirteen, at a local shopping mall. Breakout moment: Booked for Prada’s autumn/winter 13 campaign, shot by Steven Meisel. Defining feature: Facial features reminiscent of 90’s beauties Best moment of 2015: Walking for the Givenchy, Balenciaga and Dries van Noten autumn/winter 15 shows. Social media: @sophiaahrens MOJEH loves: She’s a self-confessed technophobe.

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Coat, top and skirt, DIOR

Making Tracks Photographed by Julien Vallon Styled by Marjorie Chanut

Jacket, dress and high boots, DIOR

Knitted wool top and skirt, DIOR

Wool dress and boots, DIOR

Tweed dress, DIOR

Wool dress and Dior Mail earrings, DIOR

Wool dress, DIOR

Tweed dress and high boots, DIOR

Wool coat, silk skirt and high boots, DIOR

Wool dress and boots, DIOR

Wool dress, DIOR

Model: Milena Feurer at Next Paris Hair stylist: MickaĂŤl Jauneau at Aurelien Agency Make up artist: Ismael Blanco at Aurelien Agency Photographerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s assistant: Charly Gosp Local production: Wanda Print Production: Louis Agency

Leather pleated dress with silk flowers, GUCCI | Patent stilettos, CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN

True Grit Photographed by Mark Squires Styled by Sofia Odero

Nylon jacket and embroidered tulle jacket, CHANEL | Gold hoop earrings, VHERNIER

Green bustier dress, ROLAND MOURET @net-a-porter.com | Gold hoop earrings and gold ring, VHERNIER

Lace top and skirt with pleated underskirt, SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

White crepe embroidered dress, DOLCE & GABBANA

Crepe dress with fur inserts, PROENZA SCHOULER | Gold hoops, VHERNIER | Leather pumps, CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN

Silk shirt with bow, GUCCI @net-a-porter | Gold hoops, VHERNIER

Top and pencil skirt in wool, JASON WU

Lace dress with Swarovski cuffs and collar, DIANE VON FURSTENBERG

Black silk and lace top, SONIA RYKIEL @net-a-porter. com | Jakarta silk pencil skirt, MAJOR MINOR @ majorminorstore | Gold hoops and rings VHERNIER | Patent pumps, CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN

Model: Shane Seng at Vision Los Angeles Hair and Makeup artist: Jakob Sherwood Stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s assistants: Courtney Franzese and Sarah Gentillon Production: Louis Agency

202

Solitary Refinement Photographed by Cecile Bortoletti Styled by James V. Thomas

Dress, Dice Kayek | Earrings and necklace, Bulgari

204

Metal vest, knit top and dress, Christian Dior

Dress, Atelier Versace

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Top, skirt, shoes and tiara, Schiaparelli

Dress and belt, Stephane Rolland

208

Dress, Rami Al Ali | Earrings, Bulgari

Dress, Alexis Mabille | Necklace, Bulgari

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Dress and cape, Dice Kayek | Earrings, Bulgari

Top, skirt, belt, earrings and bracelet, Armani PrivĂŠ

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Jacket, dress and skirt, Chanel

Knit jumper, jacket, trousers, hat and shoes, Jean Paul Gaultier

Model: Claire Collins at IMG Hair stylist: Benoit Guinot Make up artist: Emilie Plume Digital Operator: Jean Yves Giot Stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s assistant: Seonyeong Lee Production: Louis Agency

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A cc es s o ry T r ends

AW15

Burberry Prorsum AW15

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Family Jewels Pull out the heirlooms and dust your diamonds for big jewels are back. Worn stacked or singularly, they sure pack a punch. 1. LES COPAINS | 2. MIU MIU | 3. ERMANNO SCERVINO | 4. VIVIENNE WESTWOOD RED LABEL

The Illusionist Deceive the eye with reflective surfaces and translucent compounds built into shoes and boots. 1. EMILIO PUCCI | 2. ROBERTO CAVALLI | 3. DIOR | 4. MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA

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Dr Who Big and bold doctor bags return to cure our space issues in contemporary and functional takes on the old. 1. BLUMARINE | 2. BOTTEGA VENETA | 3. BOSS WOMEN | 4. JASPER CONRAN

Less is More Earrings take a one-sided approach this season, making a rebellious statement and breaking all the former rules. 1. ALEXIS MABILLE | 2. MARNI | 3. J.W. ANDERSON | 4. TIBI

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Entrapment The choker gets a contemporary update in chinking metals, satin sashes and beaded leather. 1. MARC JACOBS | 2. EMILIO PUCCI | 3. OHNE TITEL| 4. CHANEL

Femme Brogue Slip into masculine inspired shoes for a more comfortable approach to styling. 1. NOON BY NOOR | 2. MICHAEL KORS | 3. LACOSTE | 4. RAG & BONE

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Wild Mannered Winterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s favourite fabric finds its way to our feet as designers opt for fuzzy kicks. 1. FENDI | 2. TIBI | 3. ANTONIO MARRAS | 4. GUCCI

Cross Body Rein it in with cross body belts brought to you by the more avant-garde designers of the industry. 1.GIAMBA | 2. MARNI | 3. LANVIN | 4. IRIS VAN HERPEN

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Give It Some Glove Slip-on a pair of elbow-length gloves to drastically alter your ensemble. 1. JEAN-PIERRE BRAGANZA | 2. PRADA | 3. OLYMPIA LE TAN | 4. ELIE SAAB

The Princess Diaries Ornate accessories sit neatly in regally-styled hair for a classic take on embellishment. 1. BORA AKSU | 2. DOLCE & GABBANA | 3. PRADA | 4. BADGLEY MISCHKA

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Metallica Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t shy away from high shine as mirrored surfaces and glittery hues offer an outlandish approach to autumn. 1. CAROLINA HERRERA | 2. SOPHIA WEBSTER | 3. DELPOZO | 4. LAURA BIAGIOTTI

The Compact Embrace the minimalist within and size down all your essentials to make way for these upbeat minis. 1. MARNI | 2. GIAMBATTISTA VALLI | 3. ANDREW GN | 4. DIANE VON FURSTENBERG

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A cc es s o ry Ic o n

I Dream of

Jeanne She’s been dubbed the ‘new Parisienne’ and it’s easy to see why. At just 23 years old, Jeanne Damas has quickly made her way to the forefront of French fashion thanks to her cool and crisp approach to style. Embodying both classic and contemporary nuances with a penchant for accessories, it’s no surprise Roger Vivier has chosen her as its next campaign girl.

How would you define your style in three words? Feminine, simple and retro. What is your guilty fashion pleasure? I can’t live without good jeans and little bags. Who is your style icon? My mother: a genuine Parisian who loves dressing well to feel good, but is not a fashion addict. How do you recognise a Parisian? She always looks natural and comfortable in herself. You have been called an “It Girl”. How did you achieve that status? I was born in Paris, which is really a village. My Tumblr photos became popular through word of mouth and when brands saw my style, my aesthetic and my tastes, they began to approach me to represent their products. I represent the lifestyle that the world imagines as Parisian. At just 23 you are also the new face of the AW15 collection by Maison Roger Vivier. How does this make you feel? I am extremely proud to represent such a Parisian and iconic brand. I am so touched that Maison Roger Vivier chose me to represent a brand that has made shoe-making history

over Paris and it was magical. It certainly didn’t

and which continues to be a fashion inspiration

feel like work – more like a holiday! I adored the

today. It’s a real honour.

mini Miss Viv bags and the Mademoiselle de la Frange boots and bag. I completely trusted

How did you come to know Maison Roger

the team and the atmosphere was relaxed

Vivier?

but very professional. Dozens and dozens

Through the film “Belle de Jour” – one that I love

of products, bags, shoes, sunglasses, boots

and watched continuously because the style

and clutches were arranged by colour and

fascinated me so much. Catherine Deneuve is

size on benches. It was like Ali Baba’s cave

divine and ambiguous and wears almost only

of treasure...a little girl’s dream.

Vivier! Undeniably, those shoes took on a strong position in women’s minds at the time.

Do you generally wear heels or flats? I wear jeans a lot so I’m more heels than flats

Tell us about your first meeting with Bruno

but sometimes I wear very short 1960s dresses

Frisoni, the Artistic Director?

that I team with flats or small heels. They are

I met him in his office and immediately liked

very Vivier.

the great familiarity between him and his team. His office is full of ‘objets d’art’ and inspiration

How important are accessories to your style?

walls. He is a genuine artist: funny and open.

Very important. I dress simply: a pair of jeans with a navy jumper, t-shirt or shirt, so I like

How did you find the shoot for the Roger

wearing shoes or a bag that stands out.

Vivier AW15 catalogue? Do you have any favourites?

For you, what is a beautiful shoe?

The shoot covered two absolutely magnificent

A shoe that fits the foot perfectly. A shoe that,

days that were very sunny and warm. We went all

once you put it on, changes how you walk.

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M o st D es i r ed

NS by Noof Exotic Beauties Fall into a world of exotic skins, colourful stones and a golden gleam this season as Middle Eastern designer Noof Al Shekar showcases her clutches as hybrid beauties. Smart and savvy-minded women in the Gulf don’t back down from the motto ‘if at first you don’t succeed, try again’. Originally considering the path of studying for a business degree to become a banker, Noof quickly turned her attention to her true passion: design. Starting out with jewellery design (she transformed a necklace given to her by her husband), she now creates a hybrid of both in the form of statement clutches. Founding her own luxury label in 2009, NS by Noof creates architectural-like bags. As the perfect accompaniment to take you from day into night, they evoke a timeless elegance. Her latest collection is inspired by traditional Russian architecture, playing with geometric shapes and sharp lines. Encased in solid brass dipped in 22-karat gold, the bags are super luxurious. Featuring crocodile and python skins, exoticism is central to Noof’s vision. Finished in the richest Napa leathers sourced from Italian tanneries and one-of-a-kind semi-precious stones (onyx, amber, coral, jade, garnet and more) Noof’s clutches are mini worldly works of art.

Mark Cross Let’s Cross Over Any fashion lover worth their salt knows a statement bag can make or break an outfit. From Alexa Chung and Taylor Swift to Kate Bosworth and Olivia Palermo, celebrity style mavens are turning to Mark Cross for that final touch. The American luxury brand has travelled every path worldwide – from New York to London to Paris - before newly landing on the shores of the UAE. Starting out in 1845 in Boston, Massachusetts as Mark. W. Cross & Co. - purveyors of carriage saddles and harnesses - the brand knows a thing or two about leather, luggage and luxury. Inspired by their vintage archives, the latest offering evokes touches of Hollywood royalty Grace Kelly. Taking a starring role in Hitchcock’s hit The Rear Window, the label’s original leather luggage was used as Kelly’s overnight case. Now with a modern appeal, the Grace Box has been given a fresh makeover with delicate detachable straps and vintage-inspired clasps – all featured in an array of wonderfully vibrant colours. Unlike other bags, they are without logos. Turn back the clock by adopting an elegant flair courtesy of Grace Kelly this summer. Make a statement with a bag that adds a stroke of Hollywood royalty to any ensemble.

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A cc es s o ry F o cu s

MA D E IN Mi l a n Some things are not always as they first appear. Whether classified as whimsical or majestic, Miuccia Prada has been dabbling in some magic of her own with the new Inside Bag.

Obviously Miuccia has a sense of humour – something that not all luxury brands possess. The Inside Bag is, quite simply, a bag appearing from inside the other. Some may find the trickery unusual (buy one, get one free?), but Prada’s careful combination of exquisite materials allows it to be more than a little alluring. And while it isn’t as much of a statement as many of their past bags, such as its spring 2014 Face bag, with an array of luxurious leathers to pick from – crocodile, ostrich and calf – it most certainly is sophisticated. The concealed bag inside is rendered in Napa leather. The ingenuity of the design and craftsmanship are all parts stylish and practical. With a myriad of textures and colours to opt for, it’s difficult to fixate on only one. From small to medium to large, all in a selection of classic and novel shades, the bag-withina-bag is suited to any occasion. Whether you dress it up for an evening out (opting for crocodile skin) or carry it to the office (in calf leather), it will suitably find its feet in your wardrobe. Claiming to evoke ‘feminine clichés’, it’s perfect for the modern woman who lusts for something understatedly unique. Made by the hands of traditional artisans, it fuses old with new and classic with contemporary. Capturing both our hearts and our imagination, Miuccia’s cultured wit and intelligence has us in awe. A two-in-one bag offering is different. Being considered as Prada’s biggest bag launch since the best selling Galleria handbag 8 years ago, it will not be long until we see it on the arm of every rising starlet and bona fide style maven come winter. As they say, those who don’t believe in the magic will never find it.

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A cc es s o ry a f fair s

A New Elegance The minimalist has won this season as fineries swim into a new found love for carefree luxury. As womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s watches and and fuss-free models, we embrace a new era where elegance is found in ease.

Bouchra jarrar

jewels evoke simplicity in deep earth tones

1. CHANEL | 2. GEMFIELDS | 3. & 4. POMELLATO | 5. MAURICE LACROIX | 6. BOUCHERON at Harvey Nichols Dubai

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Goddess Mode Whether itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Valentinoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s recent show in Rome or the steady rise of gold prices in 2015, the fashion world is craving statement metal. Strewn in finely crafted garlands, it spirals around necks and sparkles amidst millions of carefully placed diamonds. Gold is here to

valentino

stay and its power is celestial.

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M o j eh I ns ig h t

Flamant Coral necklace with diamonds, sapphires, peridots, coral, onyx, in pink gold (with detachable clip).

All

Sea

Taking its place in history as the first cruise collection for jewellery, Van Cleef & Arpels new High Jewellery collection pays tribute to the Seven Seas. By Susan Devaney

From stunning starfish to delicately

much in the imagination as it was a reality.

complicated coral, Van Cleef & Arpels’

“That led us very early on to choose the

latest collection takes inspiration from

name the Seven Seas, which really goes

the ocean’s most mysterious inhabitants.

back to the Middle Ages or Renaissance

Riding on the theme of the Seven Seas of

period where there was a vision of the world

the world, diving into the deep depths of

that was smaller – very much centred on

the ocean has never been more appealing.

Europe and the Middle East. Everything

“We always start with an inspiration. It’s

after the Arctic and Atlantic Oceans were

something that’s deeply rooted in the

unchartered territory. At that time, you

house,” explains Nicolas Bos, president

didn’t even know if mermaids existed or

and CEO of the Place Vendôme Paris

not. There was a sense of mystery and

jeweller. The idea of the Seven Seas was

this idea of travel and a bit of magic,” he

inspired by the Renaissance period and

explained. This concept of transformation

it was during this time that travel was as

and mystery is captured in vibrant sea

creatures crafted in an array of colours

cut chrysoprase. The Étoile De Mer clip,

from turquoise and coral to deep blue.

inspired by the warmth and exoticism of the

Like magic, the collection moves from the

Arabian Gulf, is vibrant in its pink tones.

warm waters of the Arabian and Indian

As it unfurls, its five asymmetric branches

to the cooler climes of the Atlantic and

of tightly packed pear-shaped diamonds

Adriatic Oceans. Picking from a painterly

evoke the rocking motion of the waves.

palette, the pieces undulate along a colour

From light pink to deep red, sapphires

scheme as we take to the high waters of a

gleam together.

different sea. For the Arabian, the Mer des

Famous for its shades of blue – from

Étoiles ring is encrusted with baguette-

intense ultramarine to limpid turquoise –

cut diamonds and pear-shaped sapphires

the Mediterranean Sea plays host to pink

in aquatic shades of blue and turquoise

flamingos and sea fairies. The Flamant

that surround a large Sri Lankan sapphire

Corail necklace is exquisitely graceful,

– all enhanced by a bed of meticulously

just like the bird itself. Wrapping its wings

Goutte de Spinelle ring with a spinel, diamonds, rubies, in pink gold.

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Rivage Noir et Blanc bracelet with diamonds, sapphires, emeralds, pearls, turquoise, in white gold.

Clapotis necklace with a pearl, diamonds, tourmaline, in white gold. Vagues Mysterieuses clip with diamonds, tourmalines, sapphires, in white gold.

around your neck, the piece captures the

three years ago,” says Bos. “We had to

pink and coral shades of a flamingo in

find an inspiration that had to do with the

sapphires and diamonds, all encased by

oceans and the movement of waves. Doing

pink gold. The bird’s body - remarkable for

this research led us to want to explore

its curved volume clad in ethereal feathers

more. There were also a lot of discussions

- can become a clip, in keeping with the

with the princess as well, which is why we

Maison’s tradition of transformable pieces.

decided to do the launch in Monaco. The

This three-dimensional sculpted effect is a

collection is very sculpted in a way, very

technique they’ve adopted in recent years.

colourful. I wanted it to be abstract with

The rhythmic roll of the sea as well as a

an idea of travel jewellery - like a cruise

certain princess ignited the designers’

collection in fashion. A lighter, easy to wear

creative thinking. “It was actually triggered

cruise collection,” he said.

by the tiara we did for Princess Charlene for

The diamond bubbles, cascades of pearls

the wedding in Monaco with Prince Albert

and flamboyant shellfish belonging to

the Red Sea are anything but light – but

is keen to extend its reach: no longer does

Bos’ colour scheme makes you think

it what its pieces to be relevant to only 200

of glittering, softly rolling waves and a

or so people in the world.

slowly setting summer sun. The Goutte de

“A piece of jewellery is a piece by itself.

Spinelle ring is vivacious and vibrant, sure

You can consider it a work of art or an

to be a favourite among Middle Eastern

accessory, but it exists by itself,” Bos

women. With one 14.3-carat pear-shaped

says, as we part ways. Each piece may be

pink spinel, it is surrounded by a curve

inspired by the world below the waters, but

of baguette-cut diamonds and finished

every design holds its own. Not forgetting

in pink gold. Some may find the pieces

they capture the concept of luxurious jewels

extreme – with a multitude of diamonds and

being lighter and easier to wear, taking to

precious stones falling over each other –

the high tides is a breeze. Maybe, thanks

but the quality, craftsmanship and tradition

to Van Cleef & Arpels, we’ll see a new

is beyond extraordinary. Van Cleef & Arpels

wave of cruise collections in high jewellery.

Mer Des Etoiles ring with diamonds, sapphires, chrysoprase, in white gold.

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J e w ellery F o cu s

Keep

Archi Dior, the latest stunning High Jewellery collection by Victoire de Castellane, features an assortment of one-off pieces composed of diamonds and precious stones. Here we discover the next treasures to be found at the house of Christian Dior.

Photographed by Brigitte Niedermair

As a matching set, both necklace and ring incorporate the fan-effect of a twirling couture Dior dress. Encasing around a single diamond, the pieces resemble beautifully crafted 3D ribbons from afar.

As one part of the 44-piece collection, the diamond-encrusted bracelet was inspired by Christian Diorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most memorable couture pieces, both past and present. Delicately constructed pleats form an integral part of the entire collection.

244

Drawing inspiration from architecture (Christian Dior originally wanted to be an architect), the bracelet is rigid in structure and comprised of many diamonds. Similar pieces took experienced craftsmen half a year to finish.

The ‘Bar en Corolle’ ring, referencing the Bar suit from 1947, symbolises the femme-fleur in white gold and diamonds. The ‘Cocotte’ ring, inspired by the Cocotte dress from Dior’s spring/ summer 1948 collection, has been transformed into an asymmetrical necklace.

As part of the 23 one-of-a-kind creations, the matching bracelet and necklace are shaped like beautiful bows – a feature that consistently featured on Christian Dior’s haute couture designs.

Fallâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Infinite

Fineries Photographed by Lionel Koretzy

Hyderabad necklace with rubies, emeralds, sapphires, onyx, diamond, silk cord, in platinum (worn as headpiece) | Tutti Frutti necklace and earrings with rubies, sapphires, emeralds, sapphire beads, diamonds, in platinum | Pushkar ring with garnets, tsavorite , tanzanites, opals, diamonds in white gold, CARTIER Dress (throughout), RAMI Al ALI

Flamboyant necklace with coral, pearls, emeralds, diamonds, in platinum | Teinte bracelet and ring with onyx, chrysoprase, coral, diamonds, in white gold, CARTIER

Flamboyant necklace with coral, pearls, emeralds, diamonds, in platinum, CARTIER

High Jewellery ring with sapphire, onyx, diamonds, CARTIER

High Jewellery bracelet with garnets, onyx, diamonds, in white gold | From top to bottom: High Jewellery ring with diamonds in white gold, (Ring 2) with a sapphire, onyx, diamonds, (Ring 3) with chalcedony, sapphires, onyx, diamonds | Violine necklace with amethyst and diamonds, in platinum, CARTIER

EtĂŠ Indien bracelet and ring with opals, garnets, sapphires, diamonds, in platinum, CARTIER

EtĂŠ Indien bracelet with an opal, garnets, sapphires, diamonds, in platinum, CARTIER

Etourdissant High Jewellery collection with garnets, rubies, diamonds, in white and pink gold, CARTIER

Garance necklace, earrings and ring with rubies and diamonds, in platinum | Poursuite bracelet with jasper, onyx, emeralds, diamonds, in white gold, CARTIER

Model: Michelle McCallum at Oui Management Make up artist: Saloi Jeddi Hair stylist: Kazuko Kitaoka Photographerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s assistant: Felix Dol Maillot Local production: Talent and Partner Production: Louis Agency

256

Ha i r a nd B ea u t y Tr e nds

Hair AW15

Beauty

Chanel Haute Couture AW15 using the Blue Rhythm Collection.

258

Anime Eyes

We’re looking to the world of Japanese animation for inspiration. From Antonio Marras to Alberta Ferretti, eyes were wide open – the bigger the better.

1. BADGLEY MISCHKA | 2. BURBERRY PRORSUM | 3. ELIE SAAB | 4. DAKS

Silver Smoke

Kept in the corners or layered high to the brow, moonshine silver and iridescent blue create the smoky eye of 2015.

1. ESTEBAN CORTAZAR | 2. CHALAYAN | 3. GUY LAROCHE | 4. FRANCESCA LIBERATORE

260

1. TORY BURCH | 2. TADASHI SHOJI | 3. RALPH LAUREN | 4. BLUMARINE

Salon Sleek Whether itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s undone curls, straight and sleek or whispery waves, make the move from bed hair to salon perfection for the new season.

1. ADAM SELMAN | 2. DOLCE & GABBANA | 3. DELPOZO | 4. ADAM SELMAN

Artificial Intelligence Powdered pink and candy floss hues shimmer across the lids and lips to emulate a robotic sheen. Think sensual yet strong.

262

Runway Crop

Ditch the razor-cut angles and opt for carefree tresses that are gently trimmed to frame the face. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s uncontrived, contemporary and easy to attain.

1. ANTHONY VACCARELLO | 2. ICEBERG | 3. JASON WU | 4. TORY BURCH

Out Of Line

For a bold, statement-making look, eyes are framed with either sharp, narrow black lines or confident sweeps of thick shadow and liner.

1. FENDI | 2. LIBERTINE | 3. TSUMORI CHISATO | 4. ROCHAS

264

1. FENDI | 2. RICHARD CHAI | 3. CHANEL | 4. PROENZA SCHOULER

Always Alice Fall down the rabbit hole with a prim and proper headband courtesy of Fendi or Chanel.

1. ANTONIO MARRAS | 2. AU JOUR LE JOUR | 3. J. JS LEE | 4. VIONNET

Orange is the new black A zesty and ripe explosion of colour animates the lips and eyes, lighting up those autumn days ahead.

266

Jane Dean

Boy meets girl with a twist on the traditional. Hair is slicked back, tucked tight and gently curled away from the face.

1. DIESEL BLACK GOLD | 2. OSCAR DE LA RENTA | 3. J. MENDEL | 4. HERMÃ&#x2C6;S

Berry Bitten

Autumn sees our sinister side take hold as the deepest shade of berry moves up the colour charts. The darker the better this season.

1. ASHLEY WILLIAMS | 2. EMANUEL UNGARO | 3. GILES | 4. ERMANNO SCERVINO

268

1. PREEN | 2. ALBERTO ZAMBELLI | 3. DESIGUAL | 4. ESTEBAN CORTAZAR

Throwback Frizz Go big or go home with untamed frizz this season which makes an unexpected yet welcome return to the runway.

1. A.F. VANDERVORST | 2. AUGUST GETTY | 3. IRIS VAN HERPEN | 4. ALBERTO ZAMBELLI

Power Brows Brows continue to make their mark on the runway and in real life with upward brushes and sharply curved corners.

270

B e a u ty M o m en t s

Beauty Moments With

Photographed by Josh Olins for LancĂ´me 2015.

Julia Roberts

From her radiant natural beauty to her famous super smile, it comes as no surprise that Julia Roberts is the face of Lancôme’s La Vie est Belle. She talks us through the things in life that keep her looking and feeling good.

and said all the things I want to do and say.

What’s the biggest risk you’ve taken with

If beauty were music, it would be?

your look?

Dave Matthews singing at the end of a dining

I guess at this point the biggest risk I’ve ever

room table outside in the dark as we all sit under

What is your most obvious characteristic?

taken is not having had a face-lift! Also, the first

the stars listening.

I’m very honest. I speak very plainly. Either you

time I cut off all of my hair. I didn’t really think of

love it or you don’t.

it as a risk but every time I walked into a room

If beauty were a place, it would be?

people would gasp.

A puppy pile on my bed with my family on a

What is the trait you most deplore in yourself?

Sunday morning.

Procrastination.

does that affect your beauty routine?

If beauty were a material, it would be?

What is your greatest extravagance?

It becomes a high-humour scene. You just have

A soft cotton T-shirt.

Time off. I know a lot of people can’t take time

You’re a working mom with three kids. How

to make sure everyone looks and smells clean. That’s all that really matters.

off and can’t even imagine it. If beauty were a fruit, it would be? A sweet mango.

How do you find time to indulge yourself?

overuse?

That’s where we go back to the reality of my life

If beauty were a feeling, it would be?

versus a mom who, say, lives in Kansas City and

The feeling of looking into the eyes of someone

is struggling to get the kids picked up when she

you love.

gets off work. I don’t have anything to truly panic or worry about. So every day I’m grateful for that.

Which words or phrases do you most “What?” What do you consider your greatest achievement?

What historical figure do you most identify

My love circle: my family, my mum, my sister

with?

and her husband, and my friends. I feel a circle

When do you feel most confident?

I want to say Joan of Arc, but that will get lost

of love and support that spins around us all.

When I sit down to a big meal that I’ve prepared

in translation.

for my friends, I feel great. What’s the best part about being the face of

What is the quality you most admire most Which living person do you most admire?

in a man?

Diane Sawyer. I love everything about her.

There are too many! I just think of my husband and the interest he takes in others and the

a French brand? I feel a lot more chic than I really am. I just get

Who is your favorite fictional hero?

patience he has with our children. Those are

a spring in my step with the level of chicness

That’s a good one. You know, there’s a great

great qualities in any gender.

I’m around.

book by Wally Lamb, I Know This Much Is True,

On what occasions do you say to yourself,

which is about these brothers, and one of them

What is the quality you most admire in

is my favorite. Or Ramona the Pest.

a woman? I admire transparency. I want to know who I’m

‘La vie est belle’? When I get to work with people I enjoy. For

Who are your real-life heroes?

dealing with. Don’t pretend to be a person and

Lancôme, there are a certain number of days

Mothers who do what I do every day without the

then turn around…

a year when we all come together—the gang

really great support that I have or can have when

from France, the team from New York, everyone

I need it. The women who struggle to pay the

What do you value most in your friends?

— and we actually do work. It’s like the girlish

insurance, the ones who don’t just get to not go

Honesty and compassion. I’m lucky to have

dream of playing dress-up — having the most

to work because they want to stay home with

such a beautiful group of friends. It’s the gift

beautiful creams applied to your face, the most

the kids. That includes my girlfriends who do this

that keeps on giving.

luscious mascara swiped onto your lashes. It’s

with joy and grace and with long and full jobs.

so fun, and my kids always come when they get

What is your favorite colour?

out of school. It makes for a beautiful day when

Who has been the greatest influence on you?

the personal parts of your life intertwine with the

My husband. He’s simply remarkable.

professional parts in a harmonious way.

What is your favorite flower? What is your most treasured possession?

Where do you like to shop?

Orange.

The hyacinth.

My sense of humour.

The clothing rack of my stylist, Elizabeth Stewart.

Who are your favorite writers?

I also love a store in Venice called Heist. It’s a

What is your greatest fear?

That’s difficult. William Faulkner is one that

cute little shop, and it has everything fabulous.

Dying, just like everyone else’s. Not having done

comes to mind. And Thomas Hardy.

272

Clear Air

B e a u ty N ote

The

Protecting our skin from sun damage comes as second nature but as greenhouse gas emissions continue to rise, should we be equally concerned about the effects on our skin of pollutants in the air? We examine just what they are doing to our skin and the products that offer a solution. By Natalie Trevis We live busy lives in the city. On a daily basis

in 2014 studied women in Beijing and showed

our skin contends with car exhaust fumes,

they aged ten percent faster in the city than in

construction debris and carbon emissions

the countryside,” Littlehales notes. “Separate

circulating in the air in a scorching desert

German research in 2010, which compared the

environment. But how is this affecting our

skin of women in urban and rural areas, found

skin? “Every day, the skin is exposed to two

the former, who lived amidst higher pollution,

types of external aggressions: pollution and the

had more evidence of hyperpigmentation, or

sun’s rays (UV),” says Paula Negrisan, Clarins’

age spots, than the countryside dwellers.” Yet

regional training manager in the UAE. “Both

with many of us choosing to settle in a bustling

of these can alter the skin’s youthful qualities

metropolis, we may have to accept that this is

and radiance.” Atmospheric particulate matter,

one of the unavoidable trade-offs. Dr. Lamees

including black carbon and soot, is one of the key

Hamdan is the founder of Dubai-based skincare

culprits, particularly PM2.5 which is so fine that

line Shiffa (meaning ‘to heal’), which takes a

it penetrates both the skin and our respiratory

natural and holistic approach to skincare. She

systems. Ground level ozone is similarly toxic

takes a matter of fact approach to pollution,

and is created by chemical reactions between

noting that “we are living in cities, and with it

oxides of nitrogen (from car exhausts and

comes pollution. Pollution is a fact of life (unless

emissions from industrial facilities) and volatile

you are living in the Himalayan mountains).”

organic compounds in the presence of sunlight

These days we may need to travel even further

(something we aren’t short of in the Middle

than the Himalayas to breathe pure air. In fact,

East). “Micro pollutants can pass through the

The World Health Organisation has named

skin’s barrier,” says Lisa Littlehales, Managing

air pollution as the world’s single biggest

Director of the Cavendish Clinic in London.

environmental health risk, with more than eighty

“Studies are now proving that the cumulative

percent of the world’s population currently

effects of pollutants trigger free radical damage

exposed to concentrations of pollution above

and cause extrinsic premature ageing.” All of this

the recommended air quality guidelines. One

gives rise to a new genre of pollution-busting

of the body’s responses to pollution exposure

beauty regimes.

is the production of free radicals, which oxidise

When it comes to maintaining healthy skin,

skin cells and reduce the skin’s elasticity. “Free

it seems that city living is not working in our

radicals are unstable molecules that attack

favour. “Research funded by Procter & Gamble

human cells and damage DNA,” says Dr. Lamees.

A Simple Distraction, photographed by Riccardo Vimercati, MOJEH Issue 11

Studies are now proving that the cumulative effects of pollutants trigger free radical damage and cause extrinsic premature ageing.

274

SHIFFA, Aromatic Facial Cleanser

“They lead to ageing, tissue damage and interfere with the skin’s ability to produce collagen, which keeps the skin firm and healthy.” But there is a way to combat free radicals (some of which the body actually requires in order to tackle cancerous cells and bacteria). “I like to focus on the positive, what can be done,” says Dr. Lamees. And it starts with eating your greens. A rainbow diet of fruit and vegetables is one way to introduce the antioxidants that help to keep free radicals at bay. Dark green leafy vegetables such as kale and collard greens are particularly high in Vitamins C, E and A as well as antioxidant

NIMUE, Corrective Serum

phytochemicals such as kaempferol. Betacarotene (think orange vegetables) and lycopene are also valuable sources and can be consumed in supplement form. Antioxidants need continual replenishment, which is why a good source of the pollution-combatting compounds is dietary, but regular facials may also help to reverse and repair existing damage and Littlehales suggests “glycolic acids or lactic acids depending upon skin sensitivity”. The products we apply to our skin on a daily basis are just as important, and a growing

SKINCEUTICALS, Resveratrol BE Antioxidant Night Concentrate

number are emerging with a dual purpose: to protect and repair. “Your skincare [products] should have antioxidants in them too,” advises Dr Lamees. These crucial C, E and A vitamins can

CLARINS, UV Plus Anti-Pollution Day Screen Multi-Protection

SKINCEUTICALS, CE Ferulic High Potency Triple Antioxidant Treatment

be derived from a variety of sources: “Cantaloupe

after cleansing. Its CE Ferulic serum acts to repair

melon extract is rich in a powerful antioxidant

damage and provide a barrier against pollutants

molecule,” says Negrisan. In response to the

while the combination of Vitamins C, E and

problem of skin pollution, which Clarins sees as

ferulic acid are reported to boost skin’s natural

the second most damaging and ageing factor

antioxidant ability eight times over. “We should

affecting the skin after sun damage, the brand

all be using a stable vitamin C both morning and

has developed its own anti-pollution complex,

night time, which is a powerful antioxidant to

which is included in all daycare products and

mop up free radicals,” recommends Littlehales.

foundation. “White Tea, Succory Dock Cress

“For older skins, Vitamin A at night can help, as

and Therumus Thermophillus reinforce the skin’s

can supplements of vitamin C and Omega 3, to

barrier function by stimulating differentiation in

neutralise extrinsic free radical damage.” Sadly air

the epidermis, which increases cells’ capacity to

pollutants aren’t going anywhere - they are part of

survive in a polluted environment,” says Negrisan.

a much wider global environmental problem that

Likewise, scientific skincare brand SkinCeuticals

we need to tackle. But eating a clean, vitamin-

suggests that ninety percent of visible ageing

rich diet, thorough skin cleansing and a regular

is caused by environmental damage. As a

application of concentrated antioxidants could go

result, it offers some of the most concentrated

some way towards ensuring that our complexions

antioxidant serums on the market, to be applied

don’t suffer. And trust us on the sunscreen.

EVERYTHING IN MOJEH MAGAZINE IS AVAILABLE TO

BY CONTACTING LOUIS FOURTEEN.

T : + 9 7 1

( 4 )

4 5 4

2 0 5 0

W : l o u i s f o u r t e e n . c o m

276

F r a g r a n c e N ot e

The

First Scents of Autumn Drift out of summer and into the new season with perfumes that showcase sentiments of the two. Christian Diorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Gris Montaigne melds bursts of rose with woody undertones while Bulgariâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Ashlemah looks towards sweet lavender with base notes of musk. Each is encased in gold and purple bottles, the perfect pairing for your first footsteps towards fall. CAROLINA HERRERA, Nightfall Patchouli | LANCOME, Midnight Rose | CHRISTIAN DIOR, Gris Montaigne | ELIE SAAB, Essence No7: Neroli | BVLGARI, Ashlemah for Le Gemme Luxurious natural stone platter with 24 karat gold finishing by Kiva, available at White Almonds.

B L UE VE L VE T Photographed by Marco Cella

Face throughout: Vitalumiere Aqua 20 Beige, Eclat Lumiere 10 Beige tendre, Le Blanc de Chanel, CHANEL Lips throughout: Gloss Volume Transparent, CHANEL Eyes, Ligne Graphique 60 Dream Blue, CHANEL

Eyes, Ombre Essentielle 116 Swing and Mascara Cils Scintillants Jazzy Blue, CHANEL

Eyes, Ligne Graphique 60 Dream Blue and Mascara Le Volume 70 Blue Night, CHANEL

Nails, Le Vernis 665 Vibrato, CHANEL

Model: Kristina Pet at IMG Models Hair stylist: Kilian Marin Makeup artist: Arianna Campa using Collection Blue Rhythm de Chanel Production: Louis Agency

Eyes, Les 4 Ombres 244 Tisse Jazz, Illusion dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Ombre 102 Mysterio and Mascara Le Volume Ultra-Noir 90 Noir Khol, CHANEL

286

M o j eh j o u r n ey

A fr i ca

Rising A continent full of undiscovered treasures – from its rich oils to its highly nutritious fruit – Africa’s natural wonders are helping it rise as a burgeoning beauty hub.

“The baobab fruit contains more calcium

make room for the foreign crops like tobacco

than two pints of milk, more vitamin C than 6

are learning how and why they should nurture

oranges, and more iron than red meat,” says Dr

the plant they call the tree of life.”

Simon Jackson, backing the next big breakout

The British-born scientist has travelled to far-

beauty superstar. A doctor of pharmacognosy,

flung places around the globe – from scouring

or the study of medicines derived from natural

the floor of the Amazon Rainforest to living

sources, Dr Jackson is captivated by Africa.

with indigenous tribes in Borneo – but it’s

Women across the continent have known of the

Africa that’s inspired his own skincare line,

secret healing properties of the baobab fruit for

Dr Jackson’s. “There are over two million

centuries – using the seed oil to protect their

plant species in Africa and very few of them

skin and hair from the harsh environments. “The

are currently commercialised. This is probably

current number of households employed by

because there has been very little research to

this industry on the continent is around half a

any degree,” he explains. “If we only managed

million, but it has the trade potential to be more

to commercialise a fraction of this then we

than triple that number,” he says. “Now even

could introduce thousands of new natural

the kids who were cutting down the baobab to

ingredients into the food, drink, cosmetic

Photographed by W. Wisniewski, Corbis.

By Susan Devaney

South Africa, they cater to the importance of natural ingredients and giving back to their communities. “Being South African born, it was important to us to work with communities in Africa, as we feel very passionate about the continent, people, culture, and tradition – also we wanted to bring the heritage of Africa’s floral wealth to life,” she explains. “By using the local ingredients and supporting so many local landowners and small enterprises, we are, in essence, protecting Africa’s biodiversity, preserving the cultural knowledge for future

DR. JACKSON’S, Skin Cream @net-a-porter.com

generations and empowering many women in underdeveloped communities to create employment for themselves and many others in South Africa. This is very important to us. We buy our ingredients directly from these communities and regularly visit these remote places to better connect our products with the places where each ingredient comes from and the people who mastered their growth and harvesting.” As part of an industry-wide shift from chemical formulations to those based on botanical ingredients, many well-known beauty companies are too turning to Africa. Big brands like L’Oréal, Philosophy and L’Occitane have also harvested its resources. The beauty industry in the Middle East and Africa was estimated at $20.4 billion in 2011, according to the market research company Euromonitor International. Nigeria and Kenya are second and third among sub-Saharan countries, with Kenya’s market

KAHINA GIVING BEAUTY, Argan Oil

totalling more than $260 million – but South Africa alone represents $3.9 billion. Free from parabens, phthalates and petrochemicals, consumers want a guarantee of pure ingredients being slathered onto their skin. “We don’t use these plants as sole ingredients. For us, they are a specific way to create tailored skincare and pharmaceutical market. The potential

solutions for any modern individual looking for

for Africa is huge compared with say, the

safe, non-toxic and effective products,” says

rainforests of the Amazon (we’ve recorded 50

Julia Noik. And it’s argan oil and shea butter

thousand plant species) or Borneo, where I

that have gone from tribal ingredients to the

lived with indigenous tribes and studied their

most prized products. Luxury French brand

traditional use of plants.” Naturally found across

L’Occitane has utilised the nuts of karité trees

Malawi, South Africa, Zambia, and Zimbabwe,

in the Sahel region to produce shea butter.

baobab seed oil boosts skin elasticity and cell

From West to East Africa, from Guinea and

regeneration due to its richness in antioxidants

Senegal to Uganda and southern Sudan, the

like vitamin A.

locally known ‘women’s gold’ undoubtedly

But he isn’t the only one to tap into this new

plays a strong role in providing employment

market. African Botanics, owned by Julia Noik

and income to millions of women across the

and her husband, has invested more than just

continent. Shea butter is known for its hydrating

time and money into its business that was set

and soothing properties. From hand, foot and

up in 2012. Primarily sourcing oils such as

face creams, this butter is a core component

marula, baobab and Kalahari melon seed from

and sourcing it in Burkina Faso has been a 30-

L’OCCITANE, Dry Skin Hand Cream

288

year process for the brand. In 2013, L’Occitane was recognised as an exemplary business by the United Nations Development Programme for its collaboration with the shea butter industry. By 2016, it ‘plans to achieve 100% organic production of shea butter and establish a soap factory that allows women to develop their own processed products through a system of participatory management, providing added value and additional income generating opportunities.’ Another French brand L’Oréal has set up a sourcing programme in Morocco with its supplier BASF to foster corporate social responsibility in the argan supply chain. The programme works with an umbrella body PHILOSOPHY, Full of Promise Dual Eye Cream

involving six women’s co-operatives producing the oil. There are, however, problems with this burgeoning industry. The Berber women (the indigenous people of North Africa) are illequipped to conduct business with international organisations, leaving plenty of scope for exploitation - the main hurdle being the very low literary rates. The beauty industry is, of course, notoriously fickle as it lusts after the latest trend, so there is a danger that the fad for oils will pass like so many others before it. However the harvesting of in-demand oils such as Kigelia and Marula stretches further than only obtaining ingredients; communities are being given purpose through development. “It was around 20 years ago that I started research on African medicinal plants – I was doing my Masters and

DR. JACKSON’S, Face and Eye Essence @net-a-porter.com

PhD at King’s College, London on the anti-skin cancer properties of Kigelia pinnata (known as the sausage tree) which is indigenous to Sub– Saharan Africa and have been hooked on Africa and its flora and fauna ever since,” he says. Used within his product range, the compounds

AFRICAN BOTANICS, Pure Marula Cleansing Oil

and firmness to the skin, and its hormones

yes, you guessed it, I am starting this with

improve collagen and elastin production of the

some specifically chosen African species.”

skin’s dermis. For many years, tribal women

With funding from the United Nations Food and

have used extracts from the tree to ensure a

Agriculture Organisation for his pioneering work,

smooth, blemish-free complexion. Oil extracted

he’s working with rural communities on a tree-

from the kernels (nuts) of the Marula tree have

planting programme to help promote indigenous

long too been used by women in Swaziland to

species like the baobab, with a percentage of

reduce stretch marks and keep their skin and hair

profits supporting conservation and education.

hydrated. The number of undiscovered species

It’s this same philosophy and outlook that retains

is endless, a fact Dr Jackson is all too aware

the backbone of Katharine L’Heureux’s product

of: “As you can see, these numbers mean that

range, Kahina Giving Beauty. “When I discovered

I will not in my life time research all that Africa

argan oil on a trip through Morocco in 2007, I

has to offer so I decided to set up a foundation

knew I had found the superstar ingredient that

called the ‘Natural Products Community’ that

I was searching for. When I learned how the oil

allows for sharing the research and successful

was helping women in need in rural Morocco to

commercialisation of indigenous species. And

earn a living, I decided to build a brand that would

Photographed by Riccardo Dolivorni / Room the Agency, Corbis.

found in the Kigelia tree help to restore elasticity

make a difference in their lives,” says L’Heureux.

pay more for products from socially responsible

From cleansers to night creams, argan oil is an

companies jumped from 36 percent in 2011 to

essential component – along with other harvested

44 percent in 2013 – proving, once again, that

ingredients. “[It] only grows in the Southwest of

it’s now something in which consumers actively

Morocco, although there have been efforts to

look for before purchasing. “Our oil is certified

grow it elsewhere. Shea butter grows on the other

Fair Trade, meaning that women are being paid

side of the Sahara in West Africa. Blue tansy,

a fair wage for the work they do of extracting the

which we use in our Facial Cleanser and Lip &

oil. In addition, we donate funds to assist these

Face Balm is also known as Moroccan chamomile

women and their communities beyond wages,

(ours is produced by a women’s cooperative

through education and community development

in Morocco). Some ingredients sourced from

programs.” This is something that will evidently

Morocco, while found elsewhere, such as our

continue to grow as many discoveries lay

Prickly Pear Seed Oil and our Rose Damascena,

waiting to be found, something that excites

are superior in quality to varieties grown in

Dr Jackson: “if you look at the number of

other regions.” According to a Nielsen study,

plant species in the Amazon and compare

the number of American consumers willing to

to Africa, there are a lot, lot more in Africa.”

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T h e E x plo r er

NEW

L ANDS The jet set are redefining five-star travel as we know it, checking out of five-star hotels to embrace exclusive adventures that give something back. MOJEH explores the new movement of the moment. By Laura Binder

You’re in BayanÖlgii, Western Mongolia, one of the world’s final frontiers. There are no other tourists around, no porter, no waiter. Instead, you’re riding among nomadic tribes, hunting for food and fur on the back of a wild horse, golden eagles flying overhead, acting as your guide. You submerge yourself in local customs and find complete honesty in the tribe’s cultural roots. Sound like a luxury holiday to you? While such a venture might not tick the traditional travel boxes we’ve come to know and love (pillow menu, first-rate spa, Michelin-starred chef… ), it is an example of a sustainable travel trip created for a new wave of luxury traveller who not only wants a rare cultural experience, but one that gives back to local communities too. It’s a concept that’s quietly captivating the most seasoned of travellers, taking them beyond classic five-star hotels and on to new corners of the globe. And the best part? It’s for their eyes only. “These types of trips are essentially a little bit of a secret, but are growing in all markets,” reveals Scott Dunn’s Head of Experimental Travel, Marcus Potter. “Those who go on them don’t want to shout too loudly about them because they don’t want every man and his dog visiting and the magic of the exclusivity to be lost. It is a slow process of word of mouth.” While a rare visit to Western Mongolia is one offering from Epic Tomato – the bespoke expedition arm of luxury travel company Black Tomato – it’s far from the only option out there. Talk to the right people and you could find yourself heading to the most remote parts of the lush Guyanese Amazon to ride on the open savannahs among real-life Vaquero cowboys, rounding up cattle with the wind in your hair. Not daring enough? “For a survival element, guests could camp in the heart of the Amazonian jungle,” suggests Epic and Black Tomato’s co-founder Tom Marchant, “where they’ll live and learn survival techniques from Amerindian Tribes, surrounded by the most exotic and endangered creatures in the world.” So what’s causing luxury-lovers to shun the revolving doors of the world’s finest hotels and check in with tribesmen instead? For a generation that has it all, there’s simply something left wonting – and, according to Marchant, holidays are the perfect opportunity to fill that void. “The definition of what a luxury holiday is has changed,” he says. “Now it’s all about the luxury of experiencing something new and authentic.” In Namibia, for instance, you could immerse yourself in the animal skin-wearing Himba tribe – one of the last remaining semi-nomadic tribes – in remote northern Africa.. It’s an experience that will leave you feeling like a real-life Indiana Jones; after all, their language patterns and colour-coding systems have fascinated scientists for years, yet few will ever get to experience it first-hand. Potter believes it is this rarity that holds so much appeal, too. “It’s all about exclusivity,” he says. “You can get that amazing happy feeling of arriving somewhere so very special if the destination doesn’t get the hordes of tourists that simply destroy it in time.” Embark on Shakti Village Walks in the Indian Himalayas and you’ll be privy to a rare glimpse of this little patch of the country, courtesy of the local community who form a team of guides, porters, cookers and helpers. “The walks are only ever done exclusively by a couple or a family. You are simply the only tourist at that time and are able to get a unique insight into this part of India like no other,” tells Potter. “They only have around 100 guests a year doing this and it just feels utterly exclusive.” That over-used word – ‘experience’ – is integral to the trend. While for many, luxury hotels are a novelty – a sight to behold, a memory to be cherished – for the elite echelons of society their offerings reflect everyday life. Where’s the ‘experience’ in that? “Many luxury travellers already have their luxury at home,” comments Potter. “With their glamorous homes, rainforest showers, beach house for weekends, visiting masseuses or a favourite restaurant around the corner – they already know about materialistic luxury. Where they seek their luxury travelling experiences is to go beyond this.” India-based Karishma Patel – a self-confessed resort-addict – couldn’t agree more, which is what led her to discover WHOA (Women High on Adventure). The organisation leads women from around the globe on life-altering adventures

292

While for many, luxury hotels are a novelty â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a sight to behold, a memory to be cherished â&#x20AC;&#x201C; for the elite echelons of society their offerings reflect everyday life.

while connecting with local women in the countries they visit. It was set up by co-founders Danielle Thornton and Allison Fleece who met while climbing Kilimanjaro in 2013 and became inspired to share this experience with others. To date, it’s sponsored 20 local women in Tanzania, Kenya and Peru to share in adventures that could take you from hiking up to Africa’s highest point to white-water rafting on the Urubamba River in Peru. “There is a built-in camaraderie experienced on each adventure,” says Allison, “a natural bond and an energy that is hard to put in to words.” Karishma’s ‘holiday’ of choice? To climb to the top of Africa’s highest mountain, Mount Kilimanjaro, working with local women to complete the challenge. A WHOA-devised adventure, it saw her trek through five climate zones before making her way to the Uhuru peak – ‘the roof of Africa’ – where she stood and surveyed the world from 5,895 metres up. “Prior to WHOA, holidays always meant a luxury resort or renting a luxurious house or apartment and then exploring the place and enjoying the resort’s facilities,” concedes Karishma. “Slowly I realised that I have missed out on so much and that a break doesn’t necessarily have to be luxurious.” “The trip was a lot more difficult than I imagined,” she recalls. “The first day made me realise that this isn’t going to be easy, but then there was no way I would give up. I mentioned to Allison that I am a very angry person, but on those eight days on the mountain, not once did I get angry or wanted to complain about hygiene or how difficult it was for me to take every small step.” For Karishma, it brought new depth and meaning to travel. “The most striking feature was the giving back to the community,” she goes on. “Isn’t that the most beautiful thing you can do for a place that has given you a lifechanging experience?” This bid to take travel to new heights is redefining the concept of ‘luxury travel’ as we know it. “If there is typical five-star travel, true six- and seven-star travel is all about the experience outside the hotel,” comments Potter. But for many, the biggest challenge of all could be closing the door on a hotel’s luxurious suite for more modest accommodation. But, as the organisers promise, you needn’t trade all your creature comforts in the name of sustainability. On the contrary, some camps and properties are busy developing sustainable programmes that encourage community interaction – which means you can head to the Tanzanian safari lodge Singita Sasakwa, perched on the majestic Serengeti plains, to Cambodia’s dreamy beach resort of Song Saa or even to Africa’s very own Eden - Bom Bom Príncipe Island – and give back without compromising on all the luxurious trimmings. As for what comes next, Potter predicts that the concepts of a ‘bespoke experience’ and going ‘off-the-beaten-track’ will reach greater heights than the high-end travel industry has ever dealt with before. “This could well lead to luxury pop-up camps being erected where absolutely no form of luxury hotel exists, so you can still experience the authenticity and beauty of travelling so far from civilisation, yet have a luxurious experience at night,” he says. In the more immediate future, though, Epic Tomato predicts the sustainability bug will be caught by the entire family, with parents wanting their children to get acquainted with different ways of life worldwide. “We had a family looking to travel to the Galapagos Islands to see the incredible wildlife,” he says. “After their experience, they wanted to give something back to the communities and wildlife of the islands, so we arranged for them to volunteer at the Charles Darwin Research Centre working with scientists unearthing new endemic species to better understand the incredible work that’s done daily to keep these protected islands so pristine.” While Karishma admits she’ll continue to take her family on luxury trips of a traditional ilk, she doesn’t plan to spend her next life-altering adventure alone. “I fondly remember the girls that I met at the Maasai school, where we helped clean up their library, and the hardships that the porters go through carrying peoples’ stuff on that mountain,” she says. “Yes, there is so much more to life than just the luxury – I want my kids to learn about compassion and kindness and if I don’t do it they will never learn.”

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Tal k ing P o i nt

What’s Going On? What’s going on? There’s a style revolution happening in the ‘City of Light’ as Paris’ youth are slowly changing the fashion and cultural landscape.

Photographed by T. J. Kirkpatrick, Corbis.

By Susan Devaney

296 a little mysterious. “There is a whole new generation in Paris working with a very ambitious mindset, getting the French acquainted with style, food and culture from other parts of the world. Some call this the Brooklynisation of Paris, particularly on the Right Bank, yet influences also come from other places such as London and Sydney,” says Edelkoort, who also lives in the city. These young labels are looking to the Parisian youth around them from day-to-day for inspiration and their urban realities. “We like to be in Paris now because we know its real side: unpolished, brutal Paris – which is exciting. Also due to the fact that it’s quite a conservative old city there is a natural hunger and thrive for something new. And we like that hunger for the new,” says Gvasalia. It’s this hunger for the new that’s allowing the young to be fearless. “The issue today is the increasingly difficult ways of surviving without the support of a big luxury house,” explains journalist Alice Pfeiffer. “There is something cooking and I

of France’s lack of youth culture,

“LVMH and its LVMH prize are now

feel that Paris is getting younger

he’s keen to clarify his observation:

interested in young talents, but are

again,” says trend forecaster Li

“There’s not one, or a few defined

still rewarding only a tiny segment

Edelkoort. And she’s right, there’s

directions, as there used to be in the

of a huge emerging market, making

a new creative energy encircling the

Eighties or Nineties. There is so much

city, a change in the air. It has always

information and possibility available

been a city known for its beauty: from

through the Internet, so there is a

the historical architecture of Notre

huge variety for the youth today, which

Dame to its romantic Art Nouveau

is exciting at the same time. I would

lighting, Paris is postcard perfect.

rephrase it by saying: as long as there

But - from its cobbled crepe-stand

is youth, there is youth culture. It’s just

filled side streets to its energy-driven

less defined and less framed than it

underground nightclubs - the people

used to be in the past,” he explains.

of Paris are changing face.

It’s apparent they’re determined to

There’s a gritty, cryptic and sombre

do things their way, going against

sartorial side now gripping the fashion

the grain. And it may just change the

scene. Designer Demna Gvasalia (a

future of fashion. “[They’re] analysing

Maison Martin Margiela alumni) is

clothes from an anthropological point

paving a path of rebellion. Comprised

of view and celebrating well-conceived

of 8 former members of major

clothes rather than fashion,” says

design houses, Vetements (it literally

Edelkoort. And they’re not the only

translates as ‘clothing’ in French) is

ones, kids in their twenties in the city

going against the old and creating the

are making waves and riding against

new. “We founded Vetements because

the current, new brands like Harmony,

we simply wanted to make clothes

Coperni, Pigalle and Études. There’s

for our friends, girls we know. It’s a

a youthful, childlike and playful

brand that makes clothes inspired

element to their work, whilst evoking

by clothes. There are no seasonal

an underground, dishevelled appeal.

themes, we always work with the

From dark tough textures paired

existing wardrobe and every season

with floral prairie dresses to moody

try to give the garments we like a

massively oversized biker jackets (all

new shape, concept and frame,” says

complete with leather butcher-style

Gvasalia. Having previously spoken

gloves), making clothing more than

Images courtesy of Imaxtree.

Vetements AW15

life harder for the majority who don’t get support,” she says. But big names are moving stateside. Hedi Slimane, creative director of Saint Laurent, made the decision to move everything to the West Coast and business is thriving. “[He] ruled over Paris a few years ago but the city has now moved on from his rock ‘n’ roll aesthetic, which he, I believe, only finds alive in L.A.,” says Pfeiffer. He’s not the only one, Nicolas Ghesquière, the artistic director of Louis Vuitton, happily held its cruise 2016 collection there this year. In tandem, Raf Simons, creative director of Christian Dior, travels there three to four times a year. There appears to be a particular French affection for Los Angeles, as it grows to be some kind of hybrid of a Paris in between the palms. The youth are all too aware that there’s a heavy fashion history to contend with in Paris. But as the old move out, will the new move in and make their mark? “The luxury industry is on the brink of collapse and will need to rethink branding and merchandising if it wants to enchant consumers again,”

zeitgeist have always been considered

shareholders, then there is hope

says Edelkoort. Paris is luxury – but

capitalising components of the

that fashion will return to its role as

“cryptic is the new chic,” says Pfeiffer.

fashion industry. But is fear gripping

an inspiring medium of our times.”

Innovation, change and looking to the

the current fashion climate as the

Which is something that these young

big names move out? The youths of

labels are striving to do. And as we

Paris are laughing fear in the face.

know, fashion constantly lusts after

This is evident in light of recent threats

youth – no youth, no fashion? Not in

that were made to shake the status

Paris – the young are leading the way.

quo (a force of change will ultimately

They’re freeing their minds from the

follow suit). On the 7th January 2015,

constraints of commercialisation and

masked gunmen stormed the Paris

its constantly turning wheel. Within

office of French satirical magazine

days of being stocked on luxury

Charlie Hebdo, killing 12 people before

retailer site Net-a-Porter in August,

escaping. “I work at Le Monde which

Vetements’ reworked vintage jeans

was locked up for months following

were practically sold out, and at $1450

the tragedy, and covered in Charlie

a pair that’s a heavy price tag for denim.

posters … the city is still plastered

They may be classified as a more avant

in related slogans,” says Pfeiffer. It

garde brand, but they’re obviously

was an attack against freedom of

onto something. Scouring vintage

speech, against change and against

markets and such, the designers

creativeness.

take two pairs of old jeans and make

“Once we accept that the fashion

them into one. After showcasing the

industry is in need of change

same pair of jeans over the past few

and a major overhaul, the idea of

seasons, the team are considering

emancipation will become important,”

publishing the pattern online for others

Edelkoort explains. “If the fashion

to make the jeans themselves. If that’s

industry is intelligent enough to abolish

not an innovative way to grow your

outdated business methods, smart

brand, I don’t know what is. When

enough to give priority to creative

pressed to tell me of opportunities

thinking, conscious enough to produce

he gains from working for a young,

ethically, responsible enough to save

independent label like Vetements,

textile knowledge and courageous

Gvasalia says: “The freedom –

enough to put consumers before

which is the biggest luxury of all.”

Vetements AW15

298

M OJEH W o man

My Favourite Things by Samar Habayeb

As Creative Director at Silsal Design House, Samar Habayeb challenges conventional design and revives classics by using Arabic traditions to breathe new life into home furnishings. Inside her own home, she marries stunning artwork with her own creations in a cool and contemporary space.

These are very sentimental pieces because they signal the start of Silsal Design House taking off and growing at an international level. They are such small pieces with huge attention to detail in the porcelainâ&#x20AC;Śthey are my babies of success!

I love to fill the house with Arabic calligraphy but sometimes I prefer to see it in more understated and subdued ways. The quality is in the embossing and I love that sometimes itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not until second glance that you actually see it.

I designed these for Silsal and found it a bit of a personal challenge to make such basic acrylic pieces look appealing. They took the longest time to design but the entire collection has had so much success.

300 This is by a Jordanian artist Hani Hourani and it shows a part of Amman that is older. It’s beautiful because he brought so much life to the city and all of the colours remind me of Puerto Rico.

These are by a very famous Syrian artist who was also quite close to our family. They’re unfinished sketches that I would collect while he would drink tea with my mum and aunt. It’s beautiful work and very culturally significant.

Manal Al Dowayan’s ‘Suspended Together’ installation is an incredible piece. She wanted to draw light upon the red tape facing Saudi women who want to travel, but she explored it in such a beautiful way. The message is so powerful.

I find myself attracted to Japanese work and although this is by an Iraqi artist, he was very influenced by the country. You can see in his use of the rice paper effect, layering and composition.

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