ISSUE 31 by MOJEH

The Power of Style

NÂ° 31

OCT

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EDITORIAL

PUBLISHING

Editor in Chief MOJEH IZADPANAH

Publishing Director RADHIKA NATU

Associate Editor SHERI IZADPANAH

Publishing Assistant DESIREE LABANDA-GAVERIA

Managing Editor KELLY BALDWIN

Junior Publishing Assistant Kisada Hurin

Fashion Writer susan devaney

Paris Representative GHISLAIN DE CASTELBAJAC

Senior Editorial Assistant Natalie Trevis

Senior Advertisement Manager Pamela Bayram Cleave

MOJEH Men Group Christopher Prince

Advertising Inquiries Tel: +971 4 553 90 49 Email: advertising@mojeh.com

Guest Fashion Stylists Alessandra Corvasce Alba Melendo Marjorie Chanut

Subscription Tel: +971 4 553 90 49 Email: subs@mojeh.com

ART

LOUIS FOURTEEN FOR MOJEH

Producer LOUIS AGENCY

Concierge Service Management ASSMA AHMED

Art Director AMIRREZA AMIRASLANI

Corporate Manager JUBRAN HAMATI

Graphic Designer Balaji Mahendran

Manager IT Division Ali Roman

Digital Strategy LOUIS AGENCY

Senior Stylist MARIAN GIRGIS

Contributing Photographers Anthony Arquier David Goff Julien Vallon Marco Cella SARVENAZ HASHTROUDI

Cover photographed by Anthony Arquier, model wears Miu Miu.

Published under HS Media Group FZ LLC Registered at Dubai Design District Building No. 8, Offices 212-213 P.O.Box 502333, Dubai, UAE. WWW.MOJEH.COM Louis Fourteen for MOJEH Follow us on Twitter @MOJEH_Magazine MOJEH Swiss Representative Office: Rue de Rive 4, 1204 Geneva, Switzerland Average qualified circulation (January-June 2015): 13,306 copies. For the UAE printed by Emirates Printing Press LLC. Distribution- UAE: Al Nisr Distribution LLC. Qatar: Dar Al Sharq. Bahrain: Jashanmal & Sons BSC (C). Oman: United Media Services LLC. Lebanon: Messageries Du Moyen-Orient The publishers regret that they cannot accept liability for error or omissions contained in this publication, however caused. The opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessary those of the publishers. Readers are advised to seek specialist advice before acting on information contained in this publication which is provided for general use and may not be appropriate for the readers particular circumstances. The ownership of trademark is acknowledged, therefore reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. All credits are subjects to change. Copyright HS MEDIA GROUP FZ LLC 2011

M o j eh C o ntent s

SOCIETY 44. My Stylish Life: Lana El Sahely As she celebrates five years of her enviably stylish blog, L’Armoire De Lana, meet Lana El Sahley, the creative force behind it.

72. Space Odyssey With young designers in the jewellery world continuing to rise up the ranks, Eugenie Niarchos discusses her inspirations behind new line, Venyx.

78. Style Insider From Nadine Kanso and Rashmi Kumari to Heidi Raeside, take a look inside the homes and wardrobes of the region’s most stylish influencers.

FASHION 84. Alice Temperley

114. Tough Love

She’s dressed many a celebrity and won multiple

It’s fair to say she has it all. On the eve of the release

awards for her fashion label, Temperley London – now,

of her new movie, ‘Sicario’, we speak with British

the designer tells us what she’s learned about style.

actress Emily Blunt about becoming a mum and more.

86. Middle Ground

126. We Are The World

As our wardrobes transition from summer to

Photographed by Valentina Frugiuele, see our edit

autumn, from Gucci and Chanel to Chloe, turn to

of the trends spotted outside the AW15 shows

the labels allowing us to do so with ease.

that will easily take you through the winter months.

102. Not Just A Label

136. A Beautiful Transformation

We meet the designers of three emerging labels,

The ‘Kings of Print’, design duo Peter Pilotto,

Sandra Mansour, Taller Marmo and Kristina Fidelskaya,

speak about their beautifully transformative

as they look set to rise in the fashion stakes.

autumn/winter 15 collection.

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28 ACCESSORIES 210. Perfect Timing As the women’s watch market continues to greatly expand, we ask, which is the perfect match for you in 2015?

220. PRECIOUS POTENCY Turn to sheer opulence with jewels that are more than a little precious. Versace takes us on a journey of modern decadence.

230. A Journey with Cartier MOJEH took a special journey with Cartier through the French Riviera as they launched their Etourdissant high jewellery collection.

BEAUTY

CULTURE

244. Mathilde Thomas

261. A Place In Time

The founder of skincare brand Caudalie shares the

From Anahita Razmi and Larissa Sansour to Manal

health and beauty secrets she’s learnt throughout

Al Dowayan, meet the artists making creatively

her life, the French way.

fuelled statements about the Middle East.

248. The Ketogenic Diet

268. A New Era For Artists

Dubbed as the dieting world’s new power-player,

MOJEH contributor Jareh Das discusses whether

explore this latest weight loss trend. Is it right

celebrities are influencing a change in the way

for you?

we buy art.

256. What’s In A Dream?

280. Fashion With A Conscience

Have you ever wondered what your dreams mean?

Creative director Dana Arbib is on a mission to

We shine a light on an internationally recognised

make slow fashion fashionable. Discover the values

question that is yet to be concluded.

behind rising jewellery brand A Peace Treaty.

E d i t o r ’s L ette r

Style, Your Way Style. It’s an ambiguous word. How you wear something; being ‘in fashion’; the way one carries onself? For the purpose of the October edition and our autumn Style Issue, we define the term as a celebration of you and your freedom of choice. Transcending any season and any trend, it’s the individual nuances that the wearer brings to the table, the small and personal aspects that separate her from those standing next to her. Yes, saffron might be in prime position on the colour wheel but how does it pack a punch in your wardrobe? Head to toe Louis Vuitton is certainly on the cards for many and so it’s the personality within that pushes the outfit to the next level. And similarly, as Gucci and Miu Miu bring geek chic back to the forefront of fashion, there’s only one thing more fascinating than watching it on the runways, and that’s witnessing your own reinterpretation and reimagining of it. With all the debate currently surrounding today’s fashion system, (who dictates the trends; should we look towards seasonal or seasonless fashion; are pre-collections, in fact, fast overtaking the

Mojeh wears dress by Rami Al Ali

mainlines), the opportunity to break away from convention intensifies, and the one true rising star is the woman. Of course, who better to look toward for answers than oneself? In our society section, we meet three influencers as they take us inside their wardrobe. What you may or may not notice is the absence of a distinct autumn/winter wardrobe – instead, pieces blend into the existing and items are carried forward, each just as important as the other in defining their personal palettes. In thinking about my own choices, a determining factor is fast becoming the craftsmanship, because a well-informed choice is more often than not a long-lasting one. And so, in an unconventional but essential turn for one of our fashion stories, we look towards the hypnotic and almost unfathomable work behind a Haute Couture collection (try 1,080 hours of work and a staggering 10,000 crystals for just one piece). In making your style choices for the weeks ahead, ensure you do it with confidence, originality and with risk. The industry is throwing out the rule

Follow me on Twitter and Instagram @Mojeh_I and write to me at editor@mojeh.com

Mojeh Izadpanah Editor in Chief

Photographed by Marco Cella

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Modern Masters

Embracing classic style is something that never goes out of fashion. Whether crisp, embellished outwear , a metallic clutch or a lustrous pair of heels, mix simple silhouettes in mineralistic tones for an effortless transition into autumn. Investing in timeless accessories and understated luxury transcends any season. 1. JIMMY CHOO | 2. CARL F. BUCHERER | 3. THIERRY LASRY | 4. DE GRISOGONO | 5. CÃ&#x2030;LINE | 6. LANVIN | 7. NICHOLAS KIRKWOOD at Etoile La Boutique | 8. LUBLU at Harvey Nichols Dubai

S t yl e N ote

As designers embraced new visions, spectacles have been given an update with colourful frames and angular cuts. From Kendall Jenner to Gigi Hadid, look towards the stars for some serious geek chic inspiration.

Clockwise from top left: CHANEL | RAY-BAN | PRADA | VERSACE

Photographed by Hareth Tayem

Framework

S t yl e N ote

amazonia From glossy to patchwork, tap into your fierce sense of style with this rebellious reptile skin. Seasonal updates showcasing bold hues of emerald and lilac will ensure that optimum style impact is delivered.

Photographed by Hareth Tayem

Clockwise from top left: DOLCE & GABBANA at Harvey Nichols Dubai | MIU MIU | FENDI | BOTTEGA VENETA

F r a g r a n c e N ot e

R e g a l O r i e n t Adorn your dressing table with opulent fragrances that deliver an air of majestic masculinity. Base notes of wood and musk are balanced against Arabic ouds for a more dominant signature scent.

Photographed by Sarvenaz Hashtroudi

Left to right: NARCISCO RODRIGUEZ, Amber Musc | TOM FORD, Noir | GUERLAIN, Santal Royal | KILIAN, Eternal Oud at Harvey Nichols Dubai | ATKINSONS, Oud Save The Queen at Harvey Nichols Dubai

S t yl e N ote

Leave no space for grey areas as your foreveressential colour palette gets a modern makeover. Powerful prints and chequerboard trims give this style story all the edge required. Clockwise from top left: HOUSE OF HOLLAND at Symphony | SOPHIA WEBSTER at Harvey Nichols Dubai | CHRISTIAN DIOR

Photographed by Hareth Tayem

Mono-Play

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S t yl e N ote

Left to right: BALENCIAGA | MIU MIU | CHRISTOPHER KANE at Bloomingdales Dubai | FENDI

Set to send pulses racing â&#x20AC;&#x201C; awaken your lady in red with fiery notes of crimson and scarlet. Whether worn with head-to-toe passion or a mere glimpse of lust, this is only for the brave-hearted.

S o c i ety B elles

Lana El Sahely Lana El Sahely, the creative force behind international fashion and lifestyle blog L’Armoire de Lana, is a prominent style influencer. As a regular face during the global fashion week circuit, Lana’s effortless style, humble nature and business savvy mindset is showcased in her snapshot posts of exquisite discoveries. As she celebrates five years of L’Armoire de Lana, we get a glimpse into her elegant world.

Photographed by Hareth Tayem, Shot on location at Vida Hotel, Downtown Dubai

My Stylish Life:

Lana wears a white two-piece by Fendi

46 Motto to live by: Work hard | Best advice: Stay true to yourself | Best teacher in life: My parents | Greatest inspiration: My mother | Favourite person: My family and my husband, I can’t choose one | Most like to meet: Victoria Beckham | Next up on the bucket list: Having a baby | Hidden talents: I’m an excellent cook and baker | Current song on repeat: Lean On by Major Lazer | Favourite beach destination: Maldives | Ideal holiday: Any place by the sea with the ones I love | Favourite place in the world: Beirut, Lebanon | Favourite place in Beirut: I love the artistic and vintage vibes of Mar Mikhael | Places visited this summer: Los Angeles and the South of France | Travel plans for autumn: London and Paris | Favourite food: Traditional Lebanese | Favourite fashion brands: I’m a mix-and-match kind of person, so it’s too difficult to say! I can go from minimalistic Alexander Wang to Fendi’s statement pieces | Favourite local designers: Elie Saab, Basil Soda, Rami Kadi, and Hussein Bazaza | Heels or flats: Heels | Style icon: Victoria Beckham | Staple style: Casual with a twist | Best denim brand: J Brand Jeans | Bag of the moment: Diorama by Dior | Favourite cities to shop: Paris and London | Go-to hairdresser: Tony El Mendelek | Best hair treatment: Philip Kingsley | Favourite lipstick shade: Twig by Mac, in nude | Nail colour for October: Chinchilly by Essie | Best beauty tip: Always moisturise | Favourite at-home health and beauty solution: Pineapple, kiwi, raspberries and chia seeds smoothie (delish!) | Signature scent: Le Parfum by Elie Saab and Portofino by Tom Ford | Daily beauty regime: I wash my face using Avène Cleanance Gel; cream with SPF for the morning, moisturiser for the night | Workout: I exercise 5 to 6 times per week | Supplements: Biotine, iron and magnesium | Herbal remedies: I never sleep without drinking a cup of chamomile infusion | Best workout: EFX, the elliptical cardio machine | Favourite place to run: Beirut Corniche by the sea | Yoga or Pilates: Yoga | Prefer to be: At sea

Lana wears an emerald dress by Tara Jarmon

T h e D ir ec ti o n

Backstage at Manish Arora

Etro

The Eternal Nomad Our world is smaller than ever, yet our crosscultural reach grows ever wider. Nowhere is this better reflected than on the autumn/winter runways.

If a sense of wanderlust is calling to you, this is the season to embrace your roving spirit, wherever you may be. DSquared2 has us ready to take on an icy tundra in Inuit style hoods, tribal markings and belted fur gilets – diligently preparing us for the annual urban hibernation ahead. The Caten brothers’ inspiration? A tale of a suitcase of clothes and jewels from Old Europe having fallen out of a plane and being adopted by an Inuit tribe, in a cross-border clash of establishment finery meeting indigenous craftsmanship. Which cinematically sums up one of the key directions of the season. Etro’s grandiose paisleys and patchwork prints lend a vintage air to jet-set ready outerwear and Eastern-inspired brocade tunics: this is a woman that travels with a tailored shearling coat slung lightly over one arm, ready for anything. “The most creative areas of the industry will always push into new frontiers,” Julia Fowler, a fashion industry expert in market data, told MOJEH in Issue 30. “We’re already seeing that in a global traveller trend coming through.” Add to the mix Proenza Schouler’s tufted feather shoulders, Riccardo Tisci’s Victorian chola girl at Givenchy and Manish Arora’s folkloric ancestral Queen, and the season doesn’t simply appropriate existing tribal codes, but evokes a mood of fantastical proportions. Whether mythical or simply desirable, drop-sleeved fur-tufted coats at Sacai have been a pre-order staple of every fashion editor in the Western hemisphere; such is their other-worldly yet infinitely practical appeal. We’re all eternal nomads now.

B ack s ta g e L o ok

Behind the scenes at Loewe’s scientific autumn/winter collection.

Back to the Lab A sense of futurism pervades Jonathan Anderson’s autumn/ winter collection for Loewe. His vision takes us to the lab, but this is no experiment.

In Anderson’s empirical take on the future, we are assured of an inventive breakthrough. “Scientific!” he says of the collection. “It had to be something that felt new.” Wide herringbone trousers play against boxy leather jackets, indeed appearing both futuristic and retro in equal measure. In muted muddy tones and later fire engine brights, the silhouette is offset by asymmetric shawl collars – deconstructed and re-crafted time and again in grained lambskin and supple napa, the calling cards of the house. Slicked hair and wraparound glasses add a formidable sense of strength to the Loewe woman, something that has proved a consistent theme of the designer’s reign and one that he is not afraid to approach head-on. “We were trying to find the woman in winter,” says Anderson. “A bit laboratory, something future, but based in reality.” And, in the pastel lab dresses, shimmering petrol pleats and visually complex patterns, Anderson has done just that. All with a certainty that lets us know he will never stop challenging, searching and inventing.

The Mood

I N N E R

Retreat

The polo neck has long been a wardrobe essential, adding beatnik flair to pinafore dresses, and Céline-inspired cool to flared trousers and sneakers. This season, it morphs into a dramatic funnel neck.

Proportions have taken on a theatrical, oversized turn this season. Whether long, dangling sleeves or mannish double-breasted jackets, designers are playing with all kinds of extra coverage. We’re struck by a mood that veers away from skin baring and towards more challenging and concealing, yet no less striking silhouettes. A mood encapsulated in the evolution of the humble funnel neck. New York-based stylist Sofia Odero sees the relaxed knitwear paired with masculine pants or in a study of head-to-toe cashmere for stolen days lounging at home. The traditional slim line polo neck held its own at Altuzarra, Sonia Rykiel and Hermès, but it has also been reimagined in a new iteration. Scarf-like and comforting at Stella McCartney, DKNY and Boss Woman, the generous funnel neck offers a sartorial form of retreat and a point of balance against the season’s voluminous A-line skirts. “I would style it with a pleated skirt and derby shoes, for a working outfit that is comfy but stylish,” says Sofia. “Or create a super feminine silhouette with a pencil skirt.” A retreat perhaps, but also, a statement.

Boss Women

Malgosia Bela by Mikael Jansson â&#x20AC;&#x201C; messika.com

Glamazone Collection

for English Ad

T h e S to ry

Backstage at Peter Dundas’ farewell collection for Emilio Pucci

In a collection of astrologically-charged visions – a fitting attempt to both predict the future and rationalise the past? – Peter Dundas presented his swansong collection for Emilio Pucci in Milan. Creative director since 2008, Dundas has consistently brought his youthful, edgy artistry to the house, in a departure from the brand’s legacy that may have raised eyebrows, but also garnered a new wave of success. Draped in a theatrical embroidered cape covered in stars, Lily Donaldson marched to a Led Zeppelin soundtrack alongside fellow models of the moment, personifying a spontaneous rock ‘n’ roll aesthetic that is typical of Dundas’s thrill seeking, body-conscious signature. A signature that should prove a seamless fit at his new creative home in Florence: Roberto Cavalli. No stranger to the brand – Dundas was chief

Into theFray A fashion full-circle: Peter Dundas bids Emilio Pucci farewell and returns to Roberto Cavalli.

designer at the house from 2002 to 2005 – he returns with a more refined definition of highoctane glamour for his self-titled “homecoming”. If dressing Kim Kardashian for the Met Gala in his first official design for Cavalli is a precursor of what is to come, he brings with him more than a few celebrity clients, too. “It is an honour for me to continue to evolve the wonderful world of Roberto Cavalli,” Dundas said of his appointment. “I cannot wait to get started.”

Home at last.

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D e sig n er I nter vie w

Time of Transcendence We interview Chitose Abe, the creative soul behind cult label Sacai. By Natalie Trevis

Sacai is a brand of quietly cool ingenuity. The brainchild of creative director Chitose Abe, it is the longstanding Japanese brand fashion insiders like to name-drop, high street retailers emulate and collaborators like NikeLab and Moncler seek out for fashion kudos. The secret of Sacai’s appeal to fashion editors and buyers alike is in Abe’s remarkable ability to find new ways to meld impossible contrasts. “Sacai is about the new classic shape,” Abe says simply. Utilitarian parkas find sweetness in panels of guipure lace, while cardigans, camisoles and pleated skirts reveal themselves from behind to be single-piece dresses – a front to back magic trick at which Abe excels. The genesis of each piece is a classic, whether a trench coat, pinstripe shirt or Argyll sweater – the end result is anything but. It’s no surprise to learn that Abe honed her talent

Sacai creative director and founder Chitose Abe

over the course of eight years at Comme des Garçons, as a pattern-cutter under Rei Kawakubo, and later a designer for Kawakubo protégé Junya Watanabe. Although, her very first encounter with fashion came much earlier, as a child designing clothes for her dolls, inspired by her dressmaker mother. “Rei Kawakubo really taught me the importance of creating something completely business or my creative designs.” It was Abe’s maternity leave that led her to consider the type of daily uniform she really wanted to wear: simple, functional, but inherently interesting. Sacai’s transcendence since 1999 has been slow and steady, a deliberate tactic employed by the thoughtful Abe in order to grow the brand organically. With eyes on every part of the label, Abe is as likely to be found running payroll errands at the bank as she is cooking up the avant-garde silhouette of

Portrait photographed by Katsuhide Morimoto/little friends

new,” Abe tells us, “whether in thinking about my

Sacai autumn/winter 2015

the season. Now, with a flagship store in MinamiAoyama, Tokyo, 90 stockists around the world, a burgeoning menswear line in Sacai Men and a contemporary line, Sacai Luck, her methods have stood the test of time. A type of yin to the yang of the unbounded invention in her designs. “When I first started my business, I knew that I wanted to approach everything – whether it be designing or the business side – in a creative way and I have tried to stay true to that,” Abe says. “I did not want to work in a stereotypical way, but wanted to find my own path that worked for Sacai. Maybe because of this approach, the timing of showing my collections or opening my stores seems very different from other brands.” Likewise, inspiration isn’t fleeting for Abe, but rooted in the calm, ordered philosophy that pervades her work and allows creativity to fly. “I do not work with seasonal inspirations… my collections are always influenced by my daily life in Tokyo, and the feelings I have living in this unique city. I think fashion has the power to transcend different cultures and languages.” This ability to traverse cultures and find a sartorial sweet spot in every one could be the reason Sacai boasts many powerful supporters, from Karl Lagerfeld to Suzy Menkes; it is also the subject of a retrospective book published by Rizzoli this year (Sacai: A to Z) and has garnered legions of loyal clients – Caroline Issa recently confessed that after the autumn/winter show, she ordered no less than four coats. But, there is no ego at stake when it comes to Abe’s work.“There is still a lot of room for growth and evolution,” she muses. “I would like to continue to grow it, so that one day, the brand can continue to exist even after I leave the company.” Fearlessly challenging preconceptions with a love of deconstruction that is never derivative of those that have gone before, Abe’s Sacai is a breath of fresh air, a joyful brand of ever wilder contrasts, both in style and philosophy. The conceptual meets the street and the deliberately elusive meets fans as visible as Rihanna and Lupita Nyong’o. And that’s just what makes Sacai so desirable. “From the very beginning, I valued the importance of originality and unconventionality,” Abe says. She delivers both in spades.

The Muse

Prabal Gurung SS16

Phoenix Rizing As the fashion industry opens its eyes to beauty of all ages, Nineties supermodel Maggie Rizer is on the comeback trail.

Michael Kors SS15

Like many a Nineties super, Maggie Rizer was discovered early in her career by photographer Steven Meisel and instantly catapulted into the world of high fashion. Her freckles, strawberry blonde hair and almond-shaped blue eyes set her apart at a time when individuality was the most prized commodity of all. Within 12 months, the New Yorker had featured on a Vogue Italia When your colleagues include Carolyn Murphy, Karen Elson and Kate Moss, it’s easy to imagine how Rizer rode out the decade commanding $30,000 a day, learning about fine wines from Karl Lagerfeld and flying Concorde to squeeze in as many bookings as possible. Now married with three children and having lost a significant chunk of her modelling fortune in the early Noughties at the hands of a gambling stepfather (recovered after a lengthy court case), 37-year-old Rizer has made a return to the modelling world that is anything but token. Joining fashion alumni Jessica Stam, Amber Valetta and Gemma Ward, who have also recently revived their runway stomps, Rizer walked for Prabal Gurung during fashion week in New York, opened the Michael Kors spring/summer 2015 show and the season before that, walked for Louis Vuitton. Editorials beckon, too, most notably in the form of back-to-back shoots by Peter Lindbergh and Inez and Vinoodh for Vogue US this year. “I can’t fly around the world chasing fashion like I did when I was 17,” Rizer wrote last year on the subject of her return, “but I also know that I enjoy it too much to close the door on it for good – and I don’t have to.”

Main image photographed by Paul Morigi/WireImage/Getty Images.

cover, signed with Ford Models and walked more than 50 shows in her debut season in 1997.

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F a sh i o n F o r war d

Across 22 Street

Alessandro Michele took cruise 2016 to the streets of New York, in a fitting homage to his new era Gucci.

All images courtesy of Gucci, Gucci by Kevin Tachman and Gucci by Ronan Gallagher

Gucci cruise, 2016

A second date can be even more nerve-wracking than the first: The stakes are high and expectations jangle alongside a sense of newfound optimism. Yet, Alessandro Michele shows no such selfconsciousness, in a second womenswear collection for Gucci that emerges deftly as an eccentric tribute to the eclectic, the offbeat and the unabashedly wacky. Michele’s intelligentsia march to their own beat, traversing 22nd Street in New York’s Chelsea in a 62 look collection that flits from tales of Sergeant Pepper to Margot Tenenbaum to a folksy Janis Joplin with ease. Quilted coats, pussybow blouses (an essential buy this season) and softly-layered chiffon dresses combine a sweetly erudite sensibility with a Keringapproved luxuriousness that emerges in the form of mink hems, detailed intarsia and lashings of luxe-kitsch jewellery. It might be easy to overlook the craftsmanship amidst the maelstrom that surrounds Michele’s entirely fresh vision for the house. But, it’s an injustice to sum up his devil-may-care creation of a brand new aesthetic as nothing more than a fleeting trend for granny chic. Among the dragonfly motifs, playful androgyny and prim skirt suits, this collection bears the hallmarks of rejuvenated Italian luxury at its finest. It’s Gucci, after all.

T h e Ic o n

Call of the Wild Elusive and fascinatingly dark, Johnny Depp is as interesting today as he was when he first entered the Hollywood scene decades ago. As he stars in his firstever fragrance campaign for Dior, we take a closer look at the man behind the famous persona.

by his own definition, he was ‘who I was before I became me’. First entering our TV screens as a cop on American series ‘21 Jump Street’, he left it behind to pursue the big screen and avoid being some cartoon character ‘stapled to a box of cereal on a one-way collision course bound for the lunch box’ – famously saying: ‘I am doing things that are true to me. The only thing I have a problem with is being labelled.’ But, before he hit the big time, he wrestled with his inner demons. Dealing with addictions, Depp has never shied away from talk of his grittier days. He made a change after his friend, actor River Phoenix, died of an overdose outside the club he part-owned, the Viper Room in West Hollywood. And, of course, he was in profiled relationships with actors Sherilyn

One thing is certain when it comes to Depp:

Fenn, Jennifer Grey, Winona Ryder, and, most

He knows his own mind, and he knows

famous of all, Kate Moss. He still bares the

his own sense of style. Typically clad in

love-burned tattoo ‘Winona Forever’.

dishevelled attire – from a battered fedora

But you only have to look at Depp to know

hat and draped gothic inspired chains to a

you’re dealing with a complex man.

stylishly framed face – he oozes individuality.

After the Nineties, Depp really started

Over recent months, he’s been gracing the

doing things his own way. His naturally

red carpet with his wife, 27-year-old actress

complicated character is possibly a reason

Amber Heard, promoting ‘Black Mass’, a

why he’s always been labelled with the

gangster picture based on the extraordinary

‘weird’ badge, but he’s perfectly at one

life of Boston tough guy James ‘Whitey’

with it. If there’s anything Depp has taught

Bulger. If the rumours are true, then Depp’s

us, it’s to embrace individuality, not to be

performance is one of notable acclaim. But,

embarrassed by it. He’s never really shown

this seemingly successfully balanced life

any inclination or desire to be considered as

hasn’t always been the case. Depp has worn

‘normal’ or even likeable, and yet, he is. He

a coat of many colours before he became

famously said once: ‘I was always fascinated

the man he is today.

by people, who are considered completely

Even though he has always exuded a certain

normal, because I find them the weirdest

style, he hasn’t always been comfortable in

of all.’ Famed for playing addicts, losers or

his own skin. For the majority of the Nineties,

off-the-wall gangsters, Depp, like himself,

Photographed by Nathaniel Goldberg for Christian Dior Parfums.

opts for the characters that go against the

Scissorhands’ (starring in the first of many

grain. “I was in a cluster of movies that by

of director Tim Burton’s films), ‘Ed Wood’,

Hollywood definition were not successful.

‘Finding Neverland’, ‘Alice in Wonderland’

They were flops. I was considered box office

and many more, Depp is a Hollywood

poison, but to me, they were all successful

household name. Not forgetting, he’s

and I don’t feel any different about success

(surprisingly) been part of a Disney franchise

or failure. I don’t know how to explain it, but

(although he was once considered to be

by some miracle, I have always been able

‘too edgy’ for them). Playing Captain Jack

to choose my characters for movies,” Depp

Sparrow in ‘Pirates of the Caribbean’, the

told The Guardian newspaper. “Being able

first film in the trilogy, took $650m at the

to get jobs throughout the Nineties when,

box office – with Depp’s character being

in the language of Hollywood, I was box

nominated for an Oscar. Bill Nighy, who

office poison, should have been hard, yet

acted alongside Depp as a giant squid

I was able to do every single film I wanted

pirate, said: “Johnny’s Jack Sparrow is one

to do and with every filmmaker I wanted

of those rare performance that has entered

to work with. To me, whether I’m playing

the language. It will survive down the years

Ed Wood or ‘Fear and Loathing’, all these

and I can risk describing it as iconic.”

movies have commercial potential. Pirates

Born in Kentucky, Depp grew up in Florida

could have easily flopped.” And now, after

with three other siblings (although they

‘What’s Eating Gilbert Grape’, ‘Edward

moved several times from state to state),

has often spoken of family being his number one priority. As his own colourful story has played out over the past few decades, it comes as no surprise that he’s fronting Dior’s latest campaign for Sauvage – at the age of 52, he’s still disconcertingly handsome. Dior has a habit of nabbing all the most handsome men for their male fragrance campaigns. From a suave Jude Law for Dior Homme Sport and Dior Homme Intense to a brooding Robert Pattinson for Dior home, each and every one have been equally easy on the eye. Moodily strumming on his guitar (he’s a keen guitarist), escaping off into the desert and ‘looking for something I cannot see’, Depp is as elusive as ever in the campaign. Additional cameos go to a wolf, perched atop Depp’s car, a lone buffalo and some serious guyliner (apparently Depp’s own Johnny Depp is the new face of Dior Sauvage.

touch). François Demachy, Dior perfumercreator, spoke of his creative process: “To his parents –waitress mother, civil engineer

create Sauvage I used a man as my starting

father – divorced when he was 15. Now,

point. A strong and unmistakable masculinity

he has a family of his own. After meeting

– like the image of a man, who transcends

French singer-actress Vanessa Paradis whilst

time and fashion.” Does it bring anyone in

filming ‘The Ninth Gate’, she fell pregnant

particular to mind? Depp, of course.The first

three months later and gave birth to Lily-

of its kind in 10 years, the fragrance evokes

Rose Depp. Carving a modelling career of

a wild card theme, like Depp. “Sauvage

her own, Lily-Rose has already caught the

immediately spoke to me. I had the idea

attention of the media with her likeness to

of a clear direction, strong statements. It

her father and following in the footsteps of

was a stone in the rough that I chiseled and

her mother as a protégé for Chanel. They

shaped,” says Demachy. Showing no signs

also have a son together called Jack. Even

of retiring any time soon or retreating from

though they are no longer together (they

the limelight, as his elusiveness deepens,

announced their separation in 2012), Depp

Depp is only getting better with age.

T h e W o man

Kate Betts and her Paris Dream Kate Betts, award-winning magazine editor and author of â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;My Paris Dream: An Education in Style, Slang, and Seduction in the Great City on the Seineâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, gives us an honest account of what it takes to follow your dream.

Kate Betts photographed by Noa Griffel.

By Susan Devaney

After you finished university, you seemed so determined to follow your dream of becoming a journalist and moving to Paris. Why? I think my determination came not from the fear of failure, but the fact that I was coming out of a university that was still very driven, full of high-powered kids, who in my perspective seemed to know where they were going and what they were going to do with the rest of their lives. And, it was very much a part of the programme at Princeton that you would get through four years and find yourself and your future. So, the prospect of not fulfilling that promise terrified me. I was also competitive, so I thought if everyone else knows what they’re doing, I’ve got to know what I’m doing, too. Why did you pick Paris and not New York City?

Kate Betts with Karl Lagerfeld

I did feel very passionate about Paris; I was very passionate about the French. I loved French history, French culture and the French language. I knew I wanted to live in Paris, but the whole career part of the equation was up in the air. When you’re 20 or 22, you’re naive enough to think that everything will work out – and that’s the great thing about youth, I guess. Would I do the same thing today at my age? No, because I’ve been there and I know what the stakes are, and I know what the potential is, and it’s really, really tough. Your book is a very open and honest account of you coming of age in Paris. Did it scare you to write it? Well, that was one of the reasons I wanted to write the book actually. The biggest reason was that I’d saved all these journals and memorabilia from that time: letters, articles,

Kate with her mother in Paris

notebooks, agendas and photos. So, that’s why I knew I could ultimately transport the reader and me back to that time. What was

For many years, you worked with Anna

What did you learn about yourself in your

really inside of me was that I wanted to

Wintour at Vogue. What do you think was

twenties?

tell my story, and during the course of my

the greatest lesson you learned from her?

Well, I think in the twenties that idea of getting

career, people had very much told my story

You know, I was lucky, because I had a lot

lost to find yourself is such an important

for me and projected onto me what they

of freedom with her. And she basically let

lesson, because there is this incredible

thought I was or should be – that’s a very

me do whatever I wanted – that was a great

pressure to figure out who you are and set

uncomfortable feeling for a journalist. I just

management lesson. If you have people working

your course, and make sure you’re on the

felt like that wasn’t who I was and it wasn’t

for you, who you really trust and who meet all

right track. I don’t think you necessarily have

so easy. People would say ‘oh, she went to

of your expectations, then you just let them do

the emotional or analytical capabilities in your

Princeton then Vogue then Harper’s Bazaar’,

what they want to do – they did that.

twenties, and certainly not the experience

like it was just leap frogging from one lily pad

to know that. I think it’s important and it’s

to the next, and I wanted to tell my story for

You’re taught in school to have a career

impossible to just let everything go and get

young kids coming out of college or even high

plan... do you think that’s achievable?

lost and so on and so forth. So, I think it’s a

school, that it’s not that easy. You have to

I mean, people hold onto this idea that if I do this,

really great lesson.

work really hard, and it doesn’t always work

then I’ll get that, and no career is a perfect linear

The other lesson I think is really important

out. And you learn the most actually from

trajectory. And if it is, then you’re not going to learn

in your twenties is that you really do have

those moments when it doesn’t work out,

much. If everything is handed to you, if you have

to work hard for success. There are no

because that’s when you really have to find

to follow someone else’s idea of the right path,

shortcuts and there’s no such thing as luck.

your resolve and your sense of self.

then you’re not really going to feel successful.

It’s hard work.

T h e Op inio n

Predicting the Future of Fashion, by

Li Edelkoort Is the fashion industry about to undergo a major overhaul? The trend forecaster shares her projections.

Predicting the future Once we accept that the fashion industry is in need of change and a major overhaul, the idea of emancipation will become important. Letting textiles and colours be free enough to do their thing, letting go in order to create from scratch. Treating people and the planet better also; giving respect to our profession and to our futures. THE END OF FASHION AS WE KNOW IT The accumulation of a variety of elements indicates that the current fashion systems have reached a vanishing point (e.g. dire manufacturing expansion

conditions,

expectations,

unrealistic overworked

designers, etc.). This means that the economy of clothes will take over from the turnover of fashion. The designing of clothes will have to change and become more involved, more knowledgeable and more inspired. Trend forecasting will change as well, taking its leads from social change and finding creative ideas within lifestyle trends and consumer behaviour – focusing on textiles, design and colours in favour of anecdotes; analysing clothes from an anthropological point of view and celebrating well-conceived clothes rather than fashion.

Discovering a trend

What does the word ‘trend’ mean

To discover a trend, one has to use intuition.

today?

It’s like a muscle; you can train over the years

Trends cannot be invented or manipulated.

COUTURE WILL MAKE A COMEBACK

by simply listening to it. Observing the world

They are a powerful part of the zeitgeist,

This exodus from the fashion system will

through travel, reading, listening and learning

embedded in society and culture, able

change the landscape of the culture of

is also important, as is being open to the

without a doubt to forecast the future as

clothes. My hunch is that we will see the

unexpected and the unknown. Of course, you

a reflection of our times and where we are

comeback of couture as a major benefit.

need to be able to edit out certain information

going. They guide us as we seek to innovate

After all, it is in the atelier of couture that we

in order to clearly decipher socio-cultural

and create newness.

will find the laboratory of this labour of love. Designers such as Jean Paul Gaultier and

phenomena. At one point, one can connect the dots and understand a new trend.

The secret of success

Viktor & Rolf have already quit ready-to-wear

Being able to connect emerging and

in favour of couture. Suddenly, the profession

The process of trend forecasting

sometimes abstract concepts from various

of the couturier will become coveted and

Seeing the most beautiful aspects of life and

sources all around the world, translating them

the exclusive way of crafting couture will be

mankind. Young people have always helped

into palpable information to inspire and inform

inspiring all others; ultimately, possibly leading

me articulate and confirm trends – they are

our clients. Capturing the new when it is just

to the selling of patterns to the department

sometimes a step ahead of the masses. I am

a faint breeze in the air, well ahead of time.

stores, just as it was before the arrival of prêt-

lucky to have worked with students over the

Not being afraid to say things that people

à-porter. Or, the posting online of open-source

years; their creative input is crucial and gives

don’t want to hear; taking risks to let the true

patterns by enlightened designers – making

me hope for the future.

story be told.

history turn round.

EVERYTHING IN MOJEH MAGAZINE IS AVAILABLE TO

BY CONTACTING LOUIS FOURTEEN.

T : + 9 7 1

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4 5 4

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T h e Fa s h io n N e ws

Annie Leibovitz Annie Leibovitz has photographed famous faces for decades; intimate portraits, often revealing much more than the subject could ever have known. The Queen of England, Yoko Ono, First Lady Michelle Obama and every pop star and supermodel in between has been seen through Annie’s lens. Fitting then, that her ongoing project, Women, a series of portraits that Leibovitz began working on 15 years ago in collaboration with Susan Sontag (released in 2000 in a book of the same name), will go on tour as a pop-up exhibition from January 2016. Sponsored by UBS, the portraits – including a series of new images that aim to reflect the changes in the roles of women today – will be exhibited free to the public at surprise locations in London, Tokyo, San Francisco, Hong Kong, Singapore, Mexico City, Istanbul, Frankfurt, New York, and Zurich.

Playing Coco Karl Lagerfeld is never without an unexpected muse. For the last few years, it is just one of the roles actress Kristen Stewart has played, as a frequent Chanel campaign star, red carpet ambassador and front row darling. Now, she connects once again with the history of the fabled house, cast as a difficult actress playing Coco Chanel in the Karl Lagerfeld-directed short film to be premiered at the Métiers d’Arts show in Rome on December 1. A self-referential piece of casting that cleverly plays on Stewart’s decidedly un-Hollywood public persona, the as-yet untitled film, just like last season’s Reincarnation featuring Cara Delevingne and Pharrell, is sure to find an audience far beyond the fashion pack.

Annie Leibovitz photographed by Paul Bergen/Redferns/Getty Images. Kristen Stewart photographed by Frazer Harrison/Getty Images. Jacqueline de Ribes photographed by Victor Skrebneski.

Women by

The Art of Style The Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum in New York is having a stellar year. With over 670,000 visitors, China: Through The Looking Glass was the most visited Costume Institute show in the museum’s history, outranking even Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty. Now, a new exhibition seeks to capitalise on our fascination with fashion’s origins – Jacqueline de Ribes: The Art of Style, curated by Harold Koda. A Parisian style icon and countess, de Ribes’s exquisitely individual style became almost a form of performance art and earned her a permanent spot on the best-dressed lists of the Fifties and Sixties. A muse, designer in her own right (approved by Yves Saint Laurent, no less) and renowned for customising haute couture pieces on a whim, her exhibit will have on display creations from Pierre Balmain to John Galliano and Emanuel Ungaro. November 19, 2015 – February 21, 2016, Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York

J e w el s in M ot ion

How would you describe the Venyx DNA? It’s a brand that’s based on imaginary planets. Venyx is a mix of Venus and onyx, a planet and a stone. When I built my company, I wanted to find a name that was suitable for a planet. I wanted it to have its own identity, its own DNA. My inspiration is mostly from nature, because I think that nature is beauty. Mankind creates beautiful art and beautiful things, but what nature has created is even more beautiful and it’s endless. You’ve mentioned ‘futurism’ in the past, where does that come in? You will see that maybe in the way the stones are set or in the finishing of the gold or the closings – there is a whole futuristic aspect

Space Odyssey It could be said that Eugenie Niarchos has led something of a charmed life. Part of a group of talented young jewellery designers that are bringing a modern definition of luxury to the world of fine jewels, this granddaughter of a Greek shipping magnate has channeled her creativity into the new line, Venyx.

to it. Now, I use glow-in-the-dark enamel and the shapes are quite forward-thinking. But, my passion is antique jewellery and antique shapes; or, I might get inspired by tribal jewellery or certain systems of clothing. This all becomes the Venyx DNA. What does the jewellery design process look like for you? I like to create jewellery that has a meaning. In the first collection, I did reptile skins and the most popular one was the turtle shell, because it means different things in different cultures. In South America, it is associated with fertility, but in Asia, it is associated with longevity. I encrusted it in stones and gave it meaning. In this collection, I took a manta ray-shaped ring and added a tiger pattern to it. There’s a tiger shark, but not a tiger ray, so I invented that! For people who love the sea, it’s an association. Who is the Venyx woman? I don’t have a specific person in mind, because what makes me happiest is when all types of women wear my jewellery and adapt it to the way they dress. I design a plethora of shapes that are meant to fit the different hands of women with varying styles. The first collection had a mix of long and short rings, so it goes to two types of women – one that is a bit more of a femme fatale and one that’s a bit more cool or down to earth. What’s your first jewellery-related memory? I don’t have one memory that made me want to get into jewellery. I first thought I wanted to work in fashion and I was always creative

and loved to dress up. I loved sparkly things. I realised that I really didn’t like the way fashion

Jewellery designer Eugenie Niarchos

was ephemeral – it’s very quick. The beauty of jewellery is that it lasts forever. How has your family influenced you creatively? I have to say that I have been educated in quite a creative family. My mum has always been involved in different creative things and my father is also very much into art. You’re friends with one of the Middle East’s jewellery designers, Noor Fares. In what ways do you support each other? I started in jewellery when I was 19, with a collaboration with Repossi. Noor decided to start a brand in 2009 – she’s my best friend, so we go on a lot of trips together and see a lot of things. We interpret things in a different way, but we appreciate the same things. If you have a friend like that, you give them ideas and they give you ideas back, so it’s great. We went to the Tucson Gem Fair together and we go to India. I’ve been to Lebanon once, but she wants to take me back. Where else have we gone? Sri Lanka. You co-designed the Neree for Ere collection with Gaia Repossi, what did it mean to you? It was great, because I learnt a lot and it was the thing that made me want to create. After that, I went to study jewellery [at the Gemological Institute of America in London] and interned in the jewellery department at Christie’s in New York, so it kind of got me going. What feelings did you have when you

which looks like the sea, because it has these

decided to launch your own brand?

white veins through it. I think the most fun is

Being creative and starting a company are

experimenting; it’s like being a painter, who

two different things. For me, it took a long

has all these different colours.

time, because I was scared of what it might become – you’re always scared of failure. What

What is the most precious piece in your

if people don’t like your collection? What if it

own jewellery box?

doesn’t sell?

I have two. The first is the Greek Orthodox cross that I was given when I was baptised,

Are there specific stones you love to work with?

with my name on it. It is probably my oldest

In my previous collection, I used a lot of

piece of jewellery and it’s unique. It means a

moonstone and labradorite, because they

lot to me, so I don’t wear it because I’m scared

are the same type of stone, but two different

of losing it. That’s probably the most precious.

shades. For this collection, it’s a mix of stones.

Then I have a blue enamel snake bracelet from

I like all types of stones, but moonstone is one

the 19th century that belonged to my great

of my personal favourites. Now we use larimar,

grandmother, which my mother gave to me.

18kt gold, diamond and pearl star earrings from the Oseanyx collection

F a sh io n IN F O C US

Melancholy Moonshine Slate grey coats and fitted daywear create a new working womanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wardrobe, accentuated by subtle shades of colour.

2 ALEXIS MABILLE

5 3

Jump Off The classic jumper gets updated in fresh tones of cooling teal and creamy beige; pair with midi skirts and flared trousers for a little casual elegance.

1 3

CARVEN

Day Break Winterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s rays of sunshine come in the form of lightly embellished party skirts and shades of gold. Ensure that they are paired with warm angora knits in mahogany with pink auburn furs.

2 3

CHRISTIAN SIRIANO

Black Out Wrap yourself in all things noir. The absence of colour is moulded into off-the-shoulder tops, sultry accessories and soirée-friendly evening pieces.

1 ANN DEMEULEMEESTER

3 5

Wo m en Of S ty le

Style Insider

“My rules for

accessorising are to

never go for anything

in between – it’s either bold and oversized or simply discreet”

We take a look inside the homes and wardrobes of the region’s most stylish influencers

Nadine wears a dress by Sara Roka

Nadine Kanso

“The signature pieces I’ll be wearing this season are feminine shirts and flowing skirts from Teatum Jones”

Photographed by Sarvenaz Hashtroudi

Dubai-based Lebanese jewellery designer Nadine is fearless with fashion. Championing the mantra ‘more is more’, Nadine effortlessly merges the new with the old for a more eclectic take on style.

“My experiences with art and photography come hand in hand with designing, as it’s the same discipline when creating a new piece or project”

“I like to think of my style as a collage. I combine pieces from a variety of different eras and brands, reworking them to make them my own”

Nadine wears a dress by Teatum Jones

“I’m looking to designers such as Rosie Assoulin and Roksanda this season, for their edgy sense of style”

80 “The runways were awash with Eastern influence this season, from

Rashmi wears a dress by C’est Moi

dragons unfurling down the front of a gown at Valentino, to lace embroidery at Roberto Cavalli”

“Being aware of your body type and never compromising on fit will ensure that you find the perfect cocktail dress”

“Having an Indian background has tremendously helped in my design aesthetic. Some of the world’s most beautiful embroideries are sourced from there and this has given me an added edge”

“I’ll be keeping my eye on young designer Wes Gordon, for his ability to incorporate both old and new designs into versatile, clean-cut silhouettes”

Rashmi Kumari Indian fashion designer Rashmi interlinks her love for intricate embroidery and bejeweled embellishments with effervescent silhouettes. Combining comfort with style, Rashmi remains elegant with edge.

Rashmi wears a skirt by C’est Moi

“My signature style code is Luxe Bohemian. I chase comfort over trends with more voluminous shapes”

Heidi wears a dress by ASOS and heels by Miu Miu

Heidi Raeside Hailing from London, mother of two and fulltime blogger Heidi keeps her focus on looking cool yet practical. Mixing high street with designer and a large dose of denim, Heidi is the ultimate model mum.

â&#x20AC;&#x153;As a mum in Dubai, you have to dress practically when doing hot midday school runs. I opt for tee-shirt dresses and slidersâ&#x20AC;?

“I love how military tailoring is being worn with bohemian dresses. I picked up a couple of vintage jackets on my summer travels, which will definitely be getting an outing once the weather cools”

“When dressing my children, I always look for fun elements in their clothes; a great illustration or a cool message the boys will enjoy”

Heidi wears a vintage jacket and jeans by J Brand

“I always look to Dolce & Gabbana for their romance and drama. Miu Miu appeals to the fun girl in me and Saint Laurent caters to my inner rock chick”

“Since becoming a mum and leaving my corporate day job, I’ve had to hone in on my casual style and my overall look has become much more relaxed”

D e sig n er I nter vie w

Style: ten Things I Know about

Alice Temperley

Since launching her fashion label Temperley London in 2000, Alice Temperley has influenced the way we dress with her ethereal, Bohemian creations. Now, the woman behind the label tells us what sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s learned about styleâ&#x20AC;Ś

Backstage before the autumn/winter 15 show.

Designer Alice Temperley

1. Know your body and accept it or work on it. Stick to what works best. Certain trends and lengths might not flatter your body shape and that’s ok, understand this and accept what works for you. I have a good waist but I don’t like my legs – you will never find me in a mini skirt, which is just fine with me. 2. My mother has always influenced my style. Since I was a child she encouraged me to be creative. We didn’t have a television. I was always making things. I was fascinated by patterns, sewing, painting, etc. and I remember being in trouble for constantly breaking her sewing machine and cutting up rare treasures. She taught me how to source from markets and vintage shops, and how to mix things up. 3. Follow what you like and what suits you. Do not do things for the sake of trends as you will look back and think you looked ridiculous. When getting married or going out, remember that the partner in your life is going out with you and not someone else for the night so be very careful with make-up and hair choices. I always prefer a natural look. 4. I almost only wear Temperley London and I love to collect things on my travels around the world. I have lots of vintage rings that I’ve found in markets. And, of course I scour the best department stores such as Bergdorf Goodman in NYC for their shoe department or Le Bon Marche in Paris for hats. I also love Portobello (in London) as it is on my doorstep and I always find amazing things there. 5. Buy investment pieces – a few items that you love and that will last. Trust yourself, wear make-up and buy things that make you happy. 6. My wardrobe investment pieces? Good shoes and sunglasses…I make the rest. 7. Style evolves with lifestyle and recently I have been loving three-piece suits. I have a different suit for every day of the week. They make me feel focused and ready for work. I also love having time off and wearing a beautiful long ethereal dress paired with Temperley London lace-ups

Images courtesy of Temperley London.

for a bit of escapism. 8. From having my own brand I have realised that women need a fully functional day-to-evening wardrobe all under one label. 9. Exhibiting a sense of individuality and effortlessness will always make you stylish. 10. A woman is ‘in style’ when she’s happy, comfortable and confident. Clothes should be an extension of you and make your days more enjoyable.

S e a s o nal S ty le

Middle Ground Photographed by BOA CAMPBELL Styled by OLIVIA CANTILLON

Look to the months ahead with ease as we move away from seasonal dressing towards a holistic approach to all-year-round style. In both leaning on the codes of their respective houses and acknowledging the need for a seasonless wardrobe, designers take us seamlessly out of summer and into autumn.

ROKSANDA ILINCIC Jewel-toned hues of burnt orange, midnight blue and deep plum are splashed across elegant silhouettes with waist- defining elements. One to never leave femininity behind,

Available at Boutique 1

whatever the season.

GUCCI In one fell swoop, creative director Alessandro Michele delivers a collection that questions our perception of the modern woman; sensual, intelligent, silently sexy, or all three? His enigmatic and fictional bird becomes her emblem.

WADHA Qatari designer Wadha Al Hajri combines her simplistic brand aesthetic with streamlined silhouettes, showcasing powerful shapes suited for sensibilities.

LOUIS VUITTON Merging rock ‘n’ roll textures with retro silhouettes, artistic director Nicolas Ghesquière deliveres a collection of wearable separates. Team a sequined skirt with a plain white tee for a soft take on the trend.

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO Refined silhouettes are emblazoned with autumnal geometric prints and abstract colour blocking for pieces with unexpected movement.

Chloé Summer’s strongest trend is carried forward by Clare Waight Keller at Chloé, who toughens up bohemia with military-esque jackets and layers of moody blooms.

CHRISTIAN DIOR Raf Simons turns to raw inspirations for a collection of multi-tone animal prints. Second-skin thigh-high boots are poignant throughout, with an urban take on nature.

MIU MIU Referencing a multitude of decades, Miu Miuâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s clashing prints, crayonhued crocodile skirts and rich colourways conclude a collection with attitude in abundance.

MADIYAH AL SHARQI Designer Sheikha Madiyah Al Sharqi delivers sugar-crush pastels and elegant tailoring melded with high-octane embellishment. Simple and stunning.

FENDI Panels of fur and perspex wedges with a melting ice effect turn a simple camel overcoat into an autumnal favourite. A bold but unique way to experiment with fur.

PRADA Femininity merges with futuristic elements at Prada as super-size floral brooches and delicate bows deliver a subtle nod to the prim and proper.

TEMPERLEY LONDON Temperley Londonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s nomadic aesthetic moves soft maxi dresses into seasonal statements. Full-length knits are paired with glittering scarves for a more opulent feel.

AYESHA DEPALA With the use of a monochromatic palette and splashes of shine, Ayesha Depala focuses on effervescent textures of feather, chiffon and lace embroidery. Dress up for evening or down for the day.

Model: Patrycja at MMG Models Hair and makeup artist: Lidia Trzos Location: White Cube Studios

CHANEL As the Parisian journey continues for Chanel, signature staples are reimagined, with traditional tweed blazers meeting indulgent feathered skirts. Heavy in craftsmanship, but light in look.

102

D e sig n er I ns igh t

Not Just Label By Natalie Trevis

Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not only the likes of Gucci, Fendi and Prada that have us looking forward to refining our wardrobes for autumn. We meet the designers of three emerging labels, who are forging their own paths as

Sandra Mansour AW15

fledgling fashion ambassadors for the region and are firmly on our radar for 2015 and beyond.

The Protégée Some designers are born artists. Art holds a fascination for Sandra Mansour, which translates effortlessly into ornately feminine designs that combine a tangible modernity with a sense of history. “I have always been fascinated by the world of art and imagined myself being a painter, which was the main reason I attended Beaux-Arts in Geneva,” she says, inspired by The Hunt of the Unicorn to design autumn/ winter’s intricate prints. “With time, I discovered my passion for creating and designing, intrigued by Haider Ackermann’s patterns and layering, as well as Alaïa’s silhouettes.” Born and raised in Switzerland, Mansour returned to her roots in Lebanon to work with Elie Saab, later venturing out on her own to set up an atelier in Beirut in 2010. “Working with Elie Saab was a game changer,” she notes. “I had the chance to refine my vision of craftsmanship. This allowed me to translate my passion for art into printed fabrics and draw embroideries on patterns. The creativity, team spirit, relationship with haute couture clientele, fashion shows… all gave me the confidence to launch my own line.” Soft metallics, beaded necklines and double-breasted coatdresses hold an appeal that darts between Parisian and Arabesque sensibilities, and ultimately feels entirely original. “I am still a very young face in the industry and I still have a lot to learn. It would be an honour for me to be an international ambassador of the Middle East and its culture one day.” Meanwhile, Mansour is happy to design, find inspiration in art and make a home wherever she is. “Like in Amin Malouf’s book Les Indetités Meutrières, I feel at home both in Switzerland and Lebanon, because they are both equally a big part of who I am today.”

Designer Sandra Mansour

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Designers Yago Goicoechea (l) and Riccardo Audisio (r)

The Award Winners Taller Marmo is the self-styled intellectual brand of timeless pieces created by designer duo Yago Goicoechea and Riccardo Audisio. Classmates at Istituto Marangoni in Milan, the pair took early leave from fashion academia to translate their vision into Taller Marmo in Dubai in 2013, and answer the eternal question, “Can an intellectual brand look sexy?”. “Can those two things combine,” asks Yago, “because when you think about a brand like Maison Margiela, you feel something very masculine. Everything started with that question.” In their quest for the answer, the truly international label – Yago is Argentinian, Riccardo Italian, production takes place in Milan and the label is firmly rooted in Dubai – has found a signature in a pared back, frequently monochromatic aesthetic and eye-catching seasonal campaigns (pairing model mother and daughter in the AW15 look book to show that the collection is capable of transcending generations). Affirmation came quickly. The brand was recently announced as the womenswear winners of the 2015/16 International Woolmark Prize for India, Pakistan and the Middle East. The first time a Dubai womenswear label has won the prestigious accolade. “It was a nice thing to get,” Yago tells us modestly of the Gertrude Bellinspired collection. “First of all, because of the recognition – Woolmark has a historic association. It has that magic because Yves Saint Laurent and Karl Lagerfeld are past winners.” Between introducing pre-collections, presenting SS16 in Paris and working on the final international round of Woolmark, the pair are running on a heady mix of creativity and adrenalin. Do they ever stop to think about the secret of longevity in this notoriously fickle industry? Riccardo whispers into Yago’s ear and he laughs, “To not be a cool brand. Because when you go up very fast, you can go down very fast, too. I think that’s important – to not be a cool brand.”

â&#x20AC;&#x153;Woolmark has a historic association. It has that magic because Yves Saint Laurent and Karl Lagerfeld are past winners.â&#x20AC;?

Taller Marmo AW15

Yago Goicoechea

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â&#x20AC;&#x153;The person I have in mind as a muse is a strong, confident woman who maintains her femininity and elegance,â&#x20AC;?

Kristina Fidelskaya AW15

Kristina Fidelskaya

The Minimalist Kristina Fidelskaya launched her namesake collection on International Women’s Day this year – a fitting debut for an entrepreneur who sees herself not so much as an ambassador for fashion in the Middle East, but for women with a dream. “I’ve always been a supporter of empowering women and that is my brand’s core. I am beyond proud that my brand is based and founded in Dubai, since it is a city that not only reinvents itself, but is also a patron of the fashion industry.” Reflecting a meticulous attention to detail, Fidelskaya’s collection of minimalist dresses, layered tunic tops and lace cut-out jumpsuits in tones of soft white and grey is produced in Italy, and calls to mind a sophisticated work wardrobe that translates effortlessly into eveningwear. “The person I have in mind as a muse is a strong, confident woman, who maintains her femininity and elegance,” Fidelskaya tells us. “She is the woman we all aspire to be, in the sense of having great fashion sense, being goal-driven and being simply inspirational.” Inspired by a strong, stylish woman in her own life, her mother, Fidelskaya has been customising clothes since childhood. “As I grew, I learned that a woman’s closet isn’t complete without a piece or two that exceptionally stand out. My mother has been my biggest teacher and inspiration. She is a creator of beautiful things and I learned how to create such pieces by simply watching her. It was like magic.” Bringing a dose of that magic to her own line and with plans to launch both menswear and diffusion lines, Fidelskaya is focused on her creative goals. “As a designer, you must stay genuine and maintain your creative truth within every piece and every collection. Mixing your sincerity and passion for your talent is the ultimate secret.”

Designer Kristina Fidelskaya

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Frosty Blooms

Fa sh io n ban q ue t

GIAMBATTISTA VALLI

Flora and fauna are stronger than ever for autumn, blooming across everything from kimono-sleeved shifts to lightweight jackets and eveningwear. Clash pattern-on-print dresses with accessories in earthy tones of olive â&#x20AC;&#x201C; accompanied by statement-making jewels.

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Winter Sweetness

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MADIYAH AL SHARQI

Frosted pink and icy sapphire hues teamed with edgy frocks and tough leather accessories create a new look. Feminine silhouettes pack a bold punch with shortened hemlines, and accessories call to the future in double shaded plexiglass.

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Tough Texture

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THE KAYS

Let texture become your second skin. As skirts in cashmere suede and booties in polished leather keep legs warm, utilise textiles in all forms. Take note: coats in plush fleece and tops in scalloped alligator are a winter essential.

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Ripley Vakarian/ The Interview People, photographed by Rune Hellestad, Corbis.

114 M OJEH W o man

Tough Love On the eve of the release of her next movie, action thriller Sicario, we spoke with British actress and new mum Emily Blunt about playing roles traditionally associated with men and positive shifts in Hollywood.

116 You’ve recently acted as an FBI agent in Sicario, directed by Denis Villeneuve. Lately, you’ve played a lot of tough women – do you enjoy these roles? I’ve always been drawn to strong female roles, but I think people make the mistake of thinking that the only strong female roles are the ones where you’re carrying a weapon. I don’t necessarily think that’s the case. Even the character that I played in Into the Woods – it was a very comedic role and she was someone who’s a bit scatty and a bit crazed, but who ultimately is desperate for a child and she’ll do anything in her power and cross anybody to get what she wants. I think that’s a very strong female character as well. So, I do like that there are these more strong roles for women out there. Look at Scarlett (Johansson) in Lucy and pieces like that – it’s really exciting that people are showing up to see characters like that, who also happen to be girls. Just before you accepted the role, you gave birth to your daughter Hazel. Did motherhood made you feel more fearless? It’s interesting, because I think it can go both ways. There’s an existential bubble that’s burst suddenly and you become fearful in ways that you haven’t before. Fearful for your child, but at the same time,

and doing things in the lawful sense is ultimately the

you get the mama bear instinct. I remember talking

right way. But, is it actually doing anything and making

to my friend when I got offered this and I said I don’t

a difference? And so, you have a character who’s

know, it’s so dark, intense and it’s really brutal subject

caught up in this rather incoherent world of the CIA

matter – do I really want to be doing this right after

and the cartel and their way of doing things, which is

having a baby? And she said you’re a mama bear

totally out of bounds and illegal. Yet, she knows she’s

now – this is exactly what you should be doing and

not scratching the surface doing what she’s doing.

it’ll be good for you.

It’s just a very difficult position for somebody like this character to be in, because she is very law-abiding

You decided to go for it though. It is quite a dark

and she’s a good person. She likes to do things by

role, based around illegal substances.

the book. That’s the training, that’s what she’s about

And I love the subject matter. It’s something that

and here she is with people, who just spray bullets.

problem in some parts of the world. I thought it

She’s tough. Were you like that at school at all?

was a really fantastically crafted comment on the

Was I like that? Yes, I was kind of one of the boys and

phenomenon. There is no bad guy per se and it’s

really didn’t like pink and always enjoyed sports. I was

just such a complex issue… and will be, until people

quite athletic. But, I was also one of these children

start to change.

who was scared of a lot of stuff! I was afraid of Father Christmas and balloons and weird things like that. But

You started shooting it just five months after

I’ve never been a girly girl.

giving birth and even then, you had Hazel on the set with you. How did you manage – are you a

Does that mean your daughter has nothing pink?

morning person?

She has a lot of pink. People give you a lot of pink

I am, actually. Now that I have a baby, I have to be! You

when you have a daughter, just watch, she’ll probably

don’t really have an option. But, I always was anyway.

be the girliest girl I’ve ever met!

I played the cello as a child and I can still play, but I’m kind of rubbish now. Back then, I used to have to get

Did you spend any time with women in law

up really early to practice, so I got really good at early

enforcement for your research?

mornings. And then, you just get good on this job.

I spoke to a lot of FBI females and that was really fascinating, because they sound just like you and

Tell us about your character in Sicario.

me. They’re very matter of fact. None of them out of

I liked that I was playing a character with a big moral

the five that I spoke to are in relationships, which I

dilemma. She knows that doing things by the book

thought was really interesting. I asked: Does it work

Photographed by Frazer Harrison, Getty.

I’m passionate about and something that is a huge

Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve always been drawn to strong female roles, but I think people make the mistake of thinking that the only strong female roles are the ones where youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re carrying a weapon.

Photographed by Pascal Le Segretain, Getty.

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Some women found that there was a lot of sexism and other women I spoke to just took it on the chin. So, I think that discrimination is still a reality in heavily male-fueled industries.

Were they extra nice to you? Well, they told me the other day that when I wasn’t on set, it was a little cloudy – I thought that was very sweet. I don’t know if I’m treated like a princess, but maybe more like a sister or something that they like to push around sometimes! They’re amazing and I’ve worked with Benicio (Del Toro) before and I love him. And Josh (Brolin) has just been brilliant. He’s an extraordinary actor, but he’s a very special person and he has become a really great friend. I’m so grateful for the experience of meeting some of these people. The character has been so exciting to play. And it’s been one of the happiest sets I’ve been on. It was this and Salmon Fishing in the Yemen that I’ll remember as two of my great experiences. You recently worked with Tom Cruise on another action movie, Edge of Tomorrow. Did he give you any advice on going for these types of roles? Not necessarily about roles, but he was incredibly encouraging when it came to the stunts and action in Edge of Tomorrow; he was very supportive. I think simply because he does all of his own stunts, it kind of makes you want to rise to the occasion as well. He single-handedly has sort of transformed that way for the men in the FBI as well? And they

the way actors do stunts, because we all really

said no, because they have a wife, who lives at home

want to do them, deep down. We want to be the

usually and takes care of the children, and it works

ones to conquer them ourselves. And so, he was

really well for them. But the women have had bad

encouraging in that way. I did learn a few moves on

relationships or they’ve tried to be with someone

this one as well!

else in law enforcement. It was a challenging role, the studios were What did you speak to them about in particular?

nervous, and at one point considered changing

Some women found that there was a lot of sexism

it to a male character. Do you think there’s a shift

and other women I spoke to just took it on the chin.

in Hollywood in terms of roles that are typically

So, I think that discrimination is still a reality in heavily

more male, but are now played by a woman – like

male-fueled industries. But, these were some tough

action heroes?

women! They were cool and I asked what they do

I do feel that there’s a turn happening. I think

to decompress. What do you do after you’ve had

Hollywood seems to be a more positive place for

a hard case? And a lot of them said they just go

women than it was five years ago. I’ve definitely

home or meet a friend, who’s not in the industry at

seen a shift. Even in the comedic sense, with movies

all. One woman said she goes home and watches

like Bridesmaids, which just made a gazillion dollars

Game of Thrones and The Office. I said I’ll tell my

and it was all women – and men went to see it and

husband; he’ll be really happy to know that he’s

they went again and again. But, you still have to

your outlet to relax!

sift through a lot of rubbish to find a great female character and they’re often in the independent

Have you gained a newfound respect for them?

movies, which is why I’ve ended up doing that more,

It does give me a newfound respect for them and I

because the characters tend to be better.

think that they have to be incredibly courageous. I asked the women what the most frightening things

Where do you see the shift? Do you think it’s

they have dealt with are, and they said the moment

the audience wanting it or the studios pushing?

before you walk through a door – because you don’t

It’s a combination. I think that the studios have been

know what’s on the other side. I think that that takes

emboldened by some of the success that the female-

a huge amount of courage.

driven movies have given. But there’s also a demand from audiences that we no longer just make movies

You were near enough the only woman on the

for 14-year-old boys – that’s not what everyone thinks

sets of Sicario, but had some brilliant co-stars –

movies should be geared toward. My mother, for

Benicio del Toro, Josh Brolin and Victor Garber.

example, wants to see a movie like Sicario.

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A ut u m n S ty l e

Regality of Brocade This seasonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s style evokes opulence at its finest. Incorporating brocade and jacquard designs into your wardrobe will bring a touch of royal refinement to the most everyday of outfits. The MOJEH edit brings you three key ways to wear the trend.

Be Jewelled

To costume a more casual style, don jewelled embellishments that decorate your body. Elevate wardrobe staples with emerald and ruby gems set in precious metals. Drape yourself in a decadent Ben Amun necklace and statement Oscar de la Renta bangle for a touch of royal regalia. 1. GUCCI | 2. BEN AMUN at Bloomingdales Dubai | 3. GIVENCHY | 4. AURÃ&#x2030;LIE BIDERMANN @stylebop.com | 5. DOLCE & GABBANA @mytheresa | 6. DIOR | 7. ELIZABETH COLE @Etoile LA Boutique | 8. ANTON HEUNIS @boomandmellow.com | 9. OSCAR DE LA RENTA

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Everyday Opulence Reinvent your basic white shirt by layering plush brocade fabrics in sumptuous textures. Incorporate tapestries over modest dresses to showcase embroidered craftsmanship. Try a luxurious Arwa Al Banawi jacquard blazer featuring affluent gold details for sheer sophistication. 1. AL BANAWI | 2. STELLA MCCARTNEY | 3. MIU MIU | 4. TORY BURCH | 5. MARY KATRANTZOU at Bloomingdales Dubai | 6. BVLGARI | 7. MARCO DE VINCENZO @matchesfashion.com | 8. ZAYEN THE LABEL | 9. ALICE & OLIVIA

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Imperial Stars 6

Embark on a modern mood of day-to-night dressing with FabergĂŠ-inspired fashion. Channel the past with Art Deco designs referencing elegant lines and focusing on decorative details. Statement pieces will transition you into a twilight setting with ease. Try accessorising evening attire with a pair of regal Charlotte Olympia heels and an ornate Dolce & Gabbana bag.

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O n T r end

We Are TheWorld Photographed by Valentina Frugiuele

The streets can be just as captivating as the catwalks. From rainbow coloured hair to swishing fringe, weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve picked the trends spotted outside the autumn/winter shows that will easily transition into your winter wardrobe.

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The artful swish and swoosh of fringe looks set to stay for winter. Channelling a laid-back Seventies vibe, it could be seen adorning hemlines to handbags with aplomb. To avoid any rodeo cowboy feeling, stick to sophisticated silhouettes and tough textures, such as suede. Offset your fringing with a minimalist ensemble to swerve anything too costume-like.

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A new female form has been introduced: longer lengths and engulfing fabric-filled silhouettes. Russian style maven Lena Perminova adopted greater lengths in a purple haze of swishing fabric. Gliding over the body, hitting the floor or stretching over fingertips, a lack of measurement is key to mastering this trend. Moving away from fitted and heavy shapes, feather-like fabric in an array of prints is best.

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2015 has been a year of colour experimentation in the hair department. From rainbow hues to slices of statement making shades, less is definitely not more. As celebrities, too, join in â&#x20AC;&#x201C; from Kylie Jenner to Britney Spears â&#x20AC;&#x201C; hairdressers are delving into the past to find inspiration from My Little Pony. Rekindle your youth and dare to go bright to add some sun to your wintry ensemble.

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From belted middles to tailored curves – fashion’s focus is on the waist. Whether cinching a sleek pencil skirt or as the closing fixture to your tailored trousers, the silhouette has softened. Keep bows loose and belts free – a modern Seventies touch with sheer elegance. Adopt a palette of muted shades and minimalistic outfit choices to keep the focus firmly on this season’s high waistline.

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All images courtesy of Peter Pilotto

D e sig n er I nter vie w

Backstage before the autumn/winter 15 show

A Beautiful T ransformation By Susan Devaney

Known worldwide as London’s ‘Kings of Print’,

we talk to the design duo at Peter Pilotto who have

turned their talents toward the old, the new, and all

things beautifully transformative for autumn/winter 15.

138 next big thing by lusting after change. This sense of journey and movement is playfully illustrated in their autumn/winter offerings. “For colourful elements we were looking at board games. We found them to be such a fascinating topic that everyone knew as a kid, but then you kind of never really looked at them again – or at least never really analysed the art that goes into them,” he explained. So this season the duo has gone back to the most transformative period of all of our lives: childhood. “We found it really fascinating and inspiring to look at board games throughout the different centuries and decades, and the different kind of movements we could find in them,” he said. From snaking patchwork to pinball-style motifs, each piece is comprised of a gaming discovery. Prints played second fiddle, as textures came up trumps. “The idea of the textiles in general were the same concept as SS15: pushing the craft beyond the print,” says Peter. “SS15 didn’t actually have any print in the collection. It was a very different development, so we thought it would be kind of fascinating to explore textures in the winter collection. We, for the first time, very consciously found fabrics that had great texture,” he says. A multitude of fun fabrics spawn piece after piece – from woven fur to rich velvet to raw calf hair – all set against wintery tundra. They’re playing their own game with their own set of rules, fabrics and technique. The prints may have been pushed aside for now but the brightly hued colour palette is still lit. Neon brights – think pink, yellow, green and blue – are juxtaposed against snowy alpaca knits and creamy furs. Like the hair and makeup of models that stormed the runway, they’ve kept the silhouette clean and simple. Pencil skirts reign as they’re streamlined against an abundance “[It’s like] you can almost choose to be one thing on

of textures. The cut, tailoring and finishings are

one day, and something else on the other. Therefore,

elegantly executed. “It’s so exciting now to be able

you can explore and have fun. I think that’s quite

to work with prestigious Italian mills where we have

important – rather than having one particular style

access to very traditional techniques. It’s great to

that is dictated and everybody follows and so on. It’s

combine that, combining technology and things

nice how there is something quite liberating about

that are very advanced, next to tradition. It’s always

it,” one half of of the design duo Peter Pilotto says

important to benefit from incredible craftsmanship,”

thoughtfully. This idea of adopting one thing one

explains Peter. Fusing the old with the new is at the

day, and something else on another is a significant

heart of their work. “That’s what is so great about

element behind the label’s new collection. Peter

fashion; those things live side-by-side constantly.

Pilotto and Christopher de Vos have had one goal

Even if you take a digitally printed piece, it’s tailored

in mind: transformation.

in the same way it would have been years ago. It’s

After gaining a cult following for their vibrant, digital

a constant dialogue between history and the future.

prints, the pair felt it was time for change. “It was

It’s exciting for us,” he says.

always important for us not to be just a print brand,”

Entering the fashion scene in 2007, they’ve scooped

says Peter. For many people (both avid print lovers

many notable awards. From being named 2014

and fashion press alike), this would seem like playing

Vogue Fashion Fund winners and breaking existing

a wild card – if you have an aesthetic that is working,

sales records for their collaboration with Target to

why alter it? If it’s not broken, don’t fix it, right?

becoming recipients of the first Swarovski Collective

They’re currently sold in over 49 countries and

Award, they’ve achieved a lot for a tender seven-

stocked by a multitude of luxury retailers. But that’s

year label. And to top it all off, at the end of last

the beauty of fashion: we’re always searching for the

year they announced that MH Luxe and Megha

Backstage before the autumn/winter 15 show

Mittal had taken a minority stake in their company

season to the next. That dialogue is constant and

(previously it had been self-funded). Not only that,

we research accordingly to initialise those ideas

they have a dedicated following – from local TV

and push them further. It’s very important for us to

personality Diala Makki to Princess Deena Al-

discover things during the progress – rather than

Juhani Abdulaziz – Middle Eastern women love their

having one idea and then executing it,” he says.

statement-making ensembles, hence their trip to the

From Connect 4 to Snakes and Ladders, Pilotto

shores of Dubai earlier this year. This success can

and de Vos have executed a playfully visual game

be attributed to the design duo’s very fluid creative

of textures and beauty this season. Fusing sleek

process, that plays to each other’s strengths. “In

shapes from the Sixties and Seventies with circuits

the beginning, how we started was often explained

and checkerboards, they’ve written themselves a

and defined by our choices of studying: Christopher

new set of rules. With success already following

was choosing between architecture and fashion,

their collection and plans to launch an e-commerce

while I was choosing between graphic design and

site this autumn, they’re appreciative of their current

fashion, and somehow that explains a little our point

clientele, accepting their newly found vision. “It’s

of view to begin with. That he would focus more on

great to see that they embraced the newness we

the silhouette, and I would focus more on colour

want to bring with these collections,” Peter says.

and graphics. As we grew and progressed it really

“I feel like it’s so exciting: as you get older, beauty

got very mixed and it became a constant dialogue

almost becomes something you can control. You

on all the different topics that we were working on,”

don’t have to put in effort to kind of gain it, or have

Peter explains. Pushing the brand forward appears

it, or achieve it,” he says. Like metamorphosis,

to be integral to their success. “It’s really about the

they’ve transformed the Peter Pilotto aesthetic from

dialogue between us, and our reaction from one

prints to texture, with beautiful effect.

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M o j eh I ns ig h t

Structured necklace at Lanvin SS15

T o u gh

Jewellery is no longer concerned with merely sitting pretty, but finding beauty in irregularity and strength. By Laura Binder

Images courtesy of Getty and Imaxtree.

Luxe

Kendall Jenner, the catwalk’s current sweetheart, stormed down the Alexander Wang runway in a jet-black ensemble of heavy metal chains and Gothic boots, showing the slender, raven-haired starlet’s toughest side yet. If there’s one thing the runways have declared for this year, it’s that there’s only one way to wear jewellery: Loud and proud. Accessories were bold, brash and tougher than ever – with gems seeking not to look pretty and feminine, but strong and rough, with irregular pairings that only the most rebellious girls would dare to wear. (Cara Delevingne: We mean you.) It’s a look that’s been dubbed ‘Tough Luxe’ and everyone from the catwalk’s costume jewellery makers to leading fine jewellery houses can be seen embracing their edgier sides in a bid to express not a woman’s softness, but her inner strength. In 2015, then, accessories appear not as a mere means of prettifying outfits, but as beautiful pieces of armoury. Until now, toughness and luxury sitting side by side is a premise that’s been limited to a few key houses.

Haute Couture Collection, Roberto Coin

Take Cartier’s Juste Un Clou bracelet range. The French words translate to ‘just a nail’ – and the piece sees a smooth band with a nail head wrap itself around

tough touches, in the form of 18-carat yellow gold studs

a woman’s wrist. Few nails come in 18-carat gold of

alongside the brand’s iconic double-G logo. Available

course, but therein lies the beauty: An ordinarily sharp,

in sheer black or pure white, the rings’ studs made a

tough, harsh object twisted into something delightful.

statement: The wearer is no pushover.

To date, it’s graced the wrists of both Kristen Stewart

While Tough Luxe touches have been seen before,

and Miranda Kerr, revealing something of their true

never has the trend taken over the catwalk as much

natures in the process. Gucci’s Icon rings also featured

as it has right now. “I think fashionable women are very much looking for something new, unusual, different and unique,” comments Lebanese jewellery designer Sabine

Emma Watson wearing a Dior ear cuff.

Ghanem of Sabine G (or rather, ‘Sabine Getty’, following her June 2015 Rome wedding to billionaire heir Joseph Getty). “I think this has driven us designers to push our boundaries and bring into the market fashionable jewellery. Not only timeless and classical pieces, but also pieces that have an edge, personality and that are forward in their style.” To be part of the tough crowd, there’s a fistful of key trends to choose from. First up: Earrings – but not as you currently know them. There was a time when any self-respecting glamour girl wouldn’t be seen dead in a mismatched pair. Not anymore. Designers everywhere are hailing new looks for lobes with ear cuffs, chains and climbers: Wearing a single earring is now so rock ‘n’ roll, and gave a distinctly punk edge to models on the Hermes catwalk, where outfits were offset with a chain-style climber. Other off-balance looks proved uniformity is best left to the ‘good girls’. At Oscar de la Renta, for instance, earrings are big, bold and colourful – with clashing colours worn on each ear; green and blue dazzled on one, while orange and red formed a hot combination on the other. Nina Ricci and Louis Vuitton, meanwhile, championed a stud worn opposite a chandelier, for an askew look that only the most confident fashion-follower could carry off.

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who frequently wears a singular bow. It is one of the world’s best loved themes and our interpretation has been created with a modern woman in mind, combining traditional form with a forward-thinking execution.” While there’s no question that ears are having a revival, the Tough Luxe trend’s chosen materials are going against convention, too: It’s all about heavy metals. The chosen one? Brass. Everyone from Nina Ricci and Loewe to Tom Ford, Ralph Lauren and Versace can be seen championing the bronze-hued metallic. In each and every case, the look makes a statement: Lanvin’s show-stopping necklace immortalises a huge brass monkey, moving across an impossibly chunky, squareshaped chain. It translates to bracelets too: Chains, cuffs and arm bands all taking a firm hold. The cuff can even be seen to double up, with one worn on each wrist at KTZ, Blue Marine, Balmain and Chanel – the last perhaps in a nod to Coco Chanel, who famously wore a pair of matching Vedurea cuffs. Elsewhere, layering Gold cuff, Louis Vuitton

ruled – led by Chanel and Giambattista Valli – with mixing and matching multiple bangles piled on top of one another for striking effect. While metals made a

It’s caught on off the catwalk too, with any high-profile

choice appearance for chains, Italian brands favoured

figure worth her weight in gold donning rebellious

animal skins, from Fendi’s ferocious crocodile – twisted

cuffs and climbers over the simple stud. Models-of-

and in bright colours – to Armani’s snake-like resin

the-moment Cara Delevingne and Karlie Kloss are

bracelets, each showed a wild side.

fans of diamond ear cuffs, stacked high. While on

The necklace can also be seen to take centre stage:

the red carpet, movie stars Jennifer Lawrence, Emma

The choker is back, taking a firm hold on models’

Stone and Keira Knightley have all added edge to their

necklines. While this is a piece with a somewhat

ladylike designer dresses. At the Hunger Games L.A. premiere, Jennifer Lawrence opted for four identikit diamond-encrusted cuffs, worn with a Christian Dior Couture gown. (Even squeaky-clean Emma Watson has cottoned on to the trend, revealing an alternative streak to the Harry Potter actress.) Other designs can be seen fastened with a wire at the rear of the lobe to comfortably hold the earring in place. So well-received is this reinvention of the classic earring, in fact, that it’s not just cool independent designers and daring fashion houses that are channelling the look. The world’s oldest fine jewellery houses, Garrard, launched a pair of diamond-set ear climbers in the shape of a bow at Baselworld. “As the oldest jewellery house in the world, we treasure our unique 280-year history,” says Garrard’s CEO, Eric Deardorff. “But we do not just celebrate the past times, we create spectacular jewellery with modern day relevance for current and future generations, combining innovative design with fine craftsmanship and precious gem stones.” The bow design, then, brings a feminine twist to this tough-girl concept, allowing Garrard to maintain a sense of its regal roots. “The Bow Collection is inspired by the bow brooches created by Garrard for Queen Victoria in 1858 out of 506 diamonds that she supplied from her personal collection,” explains Deardorff. “These have subsequently been passed to HM Queen Elizabeth ll,

Statement-making necklace at Hermès AW15

Chanel SS15

Heart Throb Bangle, Solange Azagury-Partridge

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Heavy chain necklace at Dior SS15

Tango necklace with brown diamonds, in rose gold, Pomellato

Such a stark contrast – of the feminine and the rough – is exactly the point of the Tough Luxe trend: Not just to appear ‘pretty’ or ‘dazzling’ on the outside, but to openly display an inner strength, attitude or edge.

chequered past – black ribbons were associated with prostitution back in the 1800s, while red ribbons were worn to symbolise solidarity with the beheaded during the French Revolution – the 19th century gave it a noble edge, championed by Queen Alexandra. Though most of us may remember its modern-day revival in the 1990s, courtesy of pop princess Kylie Minogue, today there’s not a sniff of the pop princess about it. Clean, in-control lines dominate with the likes of Anita Ko or Diane Kordas, showing cool curves of metal, futuristic forms and fuss-free shapes. Any more detailed creations, meanwhile, sport jagged gems (Givenchy), 18 carat yellow gold ring, Bil Arabi

bold lines (Balmain) or unashamedly chunky chains (Christian Dior). Sabine G, too, has introduced the choker to her latest Prospero collection – a series of striking three-pronged pieces with enamel features and diamond leaves that give a partly tribal-woman effect. “I think it’s more edgy to have a choker, rather than a pendant,” Ghanem once commented. “It’s cool and sexy.” In keeping with the tough trend, Ghanem intends it to be worn not with an evening gown, but dressed-down attire and a devil-may-care attitude. “I wanted the Foglia

– after all, you’re in control. To go full throttle, follow

Trecento to be a casual piece,” she says. “One that you

the lead of SS15 London Fashion Week, where bold

could wear with a white T-shirt and jeans. I kept in mind

accessories purposefully clashed with even bolder

the practical side of it and wanted to create a piece that

clothing. Tom Ford showcased statement jewellery –

was easy to wear and most importantly comfortable.”

from stacked wristwear, chunky chokers and daring

When it comes to styling, then, the lover of the Tough

crystal pieces – against daring metallic slip dresses.

Luxe look may do as little or as much as she dares

Such an explosion of extravagance against a goldbeaten mini dress turned doll-like model Xiao Wen Ju into a bonafide hard-as-nails bombshell.

Karlie Kloss wearing a Repossi ear cuff

But, while brazen and bold is one styling option, strong silent types may prefer to team their jewellery with softer ensembles. Ralph Lauren and Nina Ricci exhibited lavish necklaces with large gem stones over feminine outfits, while Chanel championed floral forms, with dresses almost overwhelmed by oversized crystal flower ‘necklaces’ (they’re more like breast plates) or chain bracelets layered dangerously high with pops of candy colour. Matching details, too, brought a ladylike edge to the mix, seen with Oscar de La Renta’s flower bracelets, which matched the print of his fabrics perfectly. Lanvin, meanwhile, paired oversized pearl beading on both clothes and lavish jewellery, while Vivienne Westwood gave pretty pearls and her trademark womanly shapes a punk twist, teaming them with safety pins. Such a stark contrast – of the feminine and the rough – is exactly the point of the Tough Luxe trend: Not just to appear ‘pretty’ or ‘dazzling’ on the outside, but to openly display an inner strength, attitude or edge. “I think women want to show who they are with their clothes and it’s the same with their jewellery,” says Ghanem. “Women of today don’t want to look just pretty or feminine; it’s no longer enough.” And with looks like these, we’d say there’s never been a better time to toughen up.

The Power of Style Photographed by Anthony Arquier Styled by Alba Melendo

Jumper, ISABEL MARANT | Trousers, HERMÈS | Bag, MARNI | Shoes, SEE by CHLOÉ

Jacket and trousers, CHLOÃ&#x2030; | Jumper, DELPOZO | Shoes, MIU MIU

Coat, VERSACE | Jumper, LORO PIANA

Coat, MAISON MARGIELA | Trousers, MARNI | Jumper, HERMÈS | Shoes, CHLOÉ

Dress, GUCCI | Shoes, GIANVITO ROSSI

Coat, dress and shirt, MARNI

Coat and shoes, CHRISTIAN DIOR | Bodysuit, BALMAIN | Trousers, DRIES VAN NOTEN

Jacket and trousers, PRADA

Coat, DRIES VAN NOTEN | Top, MARNI | Shirt, CARVEN | Skirt, CHRISTIAN DIOR | Shoes, PIERRE HARDY

Dress, BOTTEGA VENETA

Coat, DOLCE & GABBANA

Coat and dress, MIU MIU

Model: Marie Ange Casta at IMG Models Hair stylist: Yuji Okuda at Saint Germain Make up artist: Anabelle Petit at Saint Germain Make up assistant: LĂŠonard Collignon Fashion assistant: Maki Kimura Production: Louis Agency

Shirt, BLUGIRL Face, Hydra Sparkling Radiance Booster, Mister Light Instant Light Concealer No.2, Eclat Matissime Fluid Foundation No.1, Le Prisme Libre No. 2 | Eyes, Prisme Quatuor No.3, Noir Couture Volume Mascara Black, Magic Kohl No.1 | Lips, Lip Pencil No.5 and Lip Gloss No.1, GIVENCHY

S h i f t i n g S a n d s Photographed by Marco Cella Styled by Alessandra Corvasce

Top and skirt, NO.21

Dress, FENDI | Shoes, MARCO DE VINCENZO

Top, NO.21 Face, Hydra Sparkling Radiance Booster, Mister Light Instant Light Concealer No.2, Radically No Surgetics No.2, Matissime No.1, Le Prisme No.24 | Eyes, Prisme Quatuor No.1 and Phenomenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Eyes Black | Lips, Le Rouge No.104, GIVENCHY

Dress, VALENTINO | Shoes, MARCO DE VINCENZO

Dress, ROBERTO CAVALLI

Shirt, BLUGIRL | Skirt, DSQUARED2

Dress, VALENTINO Face, Mist Me Gently Instant Moisturizing and Relaxing Mist, Mister Light Instant Light Concealer No.2, Teint Couture Balm No.1, Le Prisme No.2 and CroisiÃ¨re Healthy Glow Powder No.3 | Eyes, Ombre Couture No.2 and No.9 and Noir Couture Volume Mascara Black | Lips, Le Rouge No.108, GIVENCHY

Pullover and trousers, BLUMARINE Face, Hydra Sparkling Radiance Booster, Mister Light Instant Light Concealer No.2, Photoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Perfexion Fluid Foundation No.2, Matissime No.2, Le Prisme No.24 | Eyes, Prisme Quatuor No.3, Noir Couture Volume Mascara Black, Magic Kohl No.1, GIVENCHY

Dress, MARNI | Shoes, FENDI

Jacket and dress, DSQUARED2

Model: Annemijn Dijs at IMG Models Make up artist: Neveen Shalaby Hair stylist: Fadi Chedid Photographerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s assistant: Federico Freda Production: Louis Agency

Daydreaming Photographed by Julien Vallon Styled by Marjorie Chanut

Coat, MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION | Turtleneck jumper, VANESSA SEWARD | Gloves, GEORGES MORAND

Hat, HERMÃ&#x2C6;S | Coat, VERONIQUE BRANQUINHO | Shirt, SONIA RYKIEL

Coat, BALENCIAGA

Hat, LANVIN | Jacket, BALLY | Shirt, SONIA RYKIEL | Trousers, THEORY | Gloves, PRADA

Coat, SONIA RYKIEL | Shirt and jumpsuit, CHLOÃ&#x2030; | Gloves, GEORGES MORAND | Shoes, PRADA

Coat, MAX MARA | Dress, GIORGIO ARMANI | Gloves, CAUSSE

Coat, ELLERY | Dress, GUCCI | Gloves, GEORGES MORAND

Coat, DRIES VAN NOTEN | Shirt, RALPH LAUREN

Coat, JOSEPH | Jumpsuit, PAUL SMITH | Gloves, GEORGES MORAND | Shoes, PRADA

Coat, MAX MARA

Jacket, RALPH LAUREN | Dress and bag, MARC JACOBS | Gloves, GEORGES MORAND

Model: Bianca Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Brien at IMG Models Hair stylist: Mickael Jauneau at Aurelien Agency Make up artist: Ismael Blanco at Aurelien Agency Photographerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s assistant: Camellia Frizi Production: Louis Agency

Embroidered dress in silk tulle and tunic with plunging v-neck, CHANEL HAUTE COUTURE. 450 hours of work by Lesage.

T h e

Craft Photographed by Marco Cella Styled by Kelly Baldwin

‘Satin cuir’ dress with relief embroideries and a semi-open back, CHANEL HAUTE COUTURE. More than 10,000 crystal tubes were embroidered to the plastron and straps, requiring 110 hours of work by Lesage.

Jacket in ribbon tweed woven from bouclette yarn interlaced with matte, shiny metallic and paper yarn. The cuffs, shoulder straps and collar of the jacket and the skirt hem are trimmed in black 3D squares, CHANEL HAUTE COUTURE. 440 hours of work by Lesage.

Double-breasted tuxedo jacket in satin-crepe, wool and silk | Flared tuxedo trousers | Embroidered silk tulle veil, CHANEL HAUTE COUTURE. The veil alone consists of 45,000 elements and required 350 hours of work.

Embroidered cray sleeveless hooded dress in silk tulle, CHANEL HAUTE COUTURE. 945 hours of work and 425,000 elements by Montex.

Black 3D printed jacket with trim embroideries by Lesage, CHANEL HAUTE COUTURE. 580 hours of work went into the 3D printing and sewing of the trim embroidery.

Double-breasted tuxedo jacket in wool and silk | Embroidered silk tulle veil, CHANEL HAUTE COUTURE. The veil alone consists of 45,000 elements and required 350 hours of work.

‘Satin cuir’ top with dégradé embroideries by Montex, CHANEL HAUTE COUTURE. Comprising 11,000 stones in nine shapes and eight colours, this took Montex 280 hours.

White 3D printed jacket and skirt with golden trim embroideries by Lesage | Embroidered top, CHANEL HAUTE COUTURE. The printing on the jacket, skirt and embroidery and the lining and trims by Lesage comprised 850 hours of work.

Coat embroidered with flowers, feathers and pleated tulle, CHANEL HAUTE COUTURE. The LemariĂŠ flowers and feathers on the coat required 1,820 hours of sewing while the embroideries on the skirt consist of 115,000 elements, requiring 450 hours of work.

Embroidered silk tulle dress with black feathers and organza sweep, CHANEL HAUTE COUTURE. The weaving of the body by LemariĂŠ took 440 hours.

Cream mohair tweed coat with 3D trim embroideries | Dress, CHANEL HAUTE COUTURE. More than 200,000 elements were needed for the embroideries in both pieces, requiring a total of 1080 hours of work by Lesage.

Jacket in ribbon tweed woven with gold ribbon and gold thread , CHANEL HAUTE COUTURE. The 3D printing and trim embroidery in both pieces required 615 hours of work.

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Asymmetrical dress in white lace embellished with gold and silver silicone worn with a matching cape, CHANEL HAUTE COUTURE

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j e w ellery i ns igh t

A Deeper Love, photographed by Anthony Arquier, MOJEH Issue 27

Perfect

Timing By Laura Binder

There’s never been a more interesting time than now for women’s timepieces – but which is the one for 2015? Cocktail watch with diamonds in 18 karat white gold, TIFFANY & CO.

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A Bulgari Serpenti was Elizabeth Taylor’s watch of choice, turning the golden snake into a Hollywood glamour icon; Cartier became the image of elegance, favoured by sophisticated French women; while a Patek Phillipe is considered an investment to pass on to one’s daughter. Whatever your timepiece of choice may be to date, though, one thing is for certain: the watch industry is no longer a man’s world. Right now, the options for women have never been greater. “There is a real market for high-end ladies’ watches across the world and particularly in the GCC,” says Richard Mille’s General Manager ME, Daniel Bacardit-Stamm. “At the moment, our ladies’ collection represents around 20 percent of production and we aim to increase this to over 30 percent over the next few years.” What’s more, traditional rules of what or how one should wear a watch are falling by the wayside, hailing a new time for women’s watch design. “The interests of our female clients are very diverse when choosing which watch they would like to buy,” says Bacardit-Stamm. “Some are fascinated by Haute Horlogerie and will only buy tourbillons, while others will choose a watch based on size, shape, colour, material or one of many other deciding factors.” “We have seen a good number of ladies wearing gents’ watches, since they find more attractiveness in them,” adds Tariq Malik, coowner of Dubai vintage watch specialists, Momentum. “Diversification is most important. They wear Submariners, Daytonas and other larger iconic pieces like Day Dates or 36mm Datejusts. Sometimes inspired by pieces they inherited from fathers and grandfathers, and which become their favourite watches.” Such a change in taste has prompted watchmakers to bring more to the market than dainty-faced wristwear. “Women are looking more into mechanical watches and complications, too,” says Malik. “It’s not only the brand that triggers a purchase, it’s the history of the model, the story behind it.” Such a renewed interest has also changed the way women shop for watches. Á Cheval watch with round diamonds set in white gold, VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

“In the past, women were not collectors – they owned watches because they wanted to own them, but there was no particular motive back then,” says Malik. “Today, women are collecting – they follow their own directions and have a collecting pattern. The key is to stand out. Manufacturers are launching larger pieces with interesting movements these days to cater to sophisticated ladies.”

With so much variation on offer, then, it’s no longer about limiting oneself to one key timepiece for life, rather a key piece for the year ahead. But how is a girl to choose the one? If brand name and heritage is of prime importance to you, then some key maisons are worth remaining loyal to, believes Christie’s Geneva-based international watch specialist, Sabine Kegel. “After 20 years of experience in the industry, it is clear that Patek Philippe, Cartier, Piaget, Hermes, and Van Cleef are the most sought after watch brands by female collectors,” she says. In the Middle East specifically, Malik pinpoints a few more held in high esteem. “Here, the most important and big names in the high-end range are Rolex, Patek Philippe, Cartier, Bulgari and Chopard,” he says. “The latter three are considered as jewellery brands, but have, especially in the last few years, established themselves in the watches industry to play with the major players.” Wear any one on the wrist then and you’re sure to attract eyes wherever you mingle. Éclat Floral Joséphine watch, CHAUMET

Of them, Cartier’s Ballon Bleu de Cartier FloralMarquetry Parrot watch is one to desire. Where previous years have hailed crocodile and flamingo pieces from the animal-loving maison, the parrot design is a technical triumph too: Limited edition, the peacock-coloured parrot avian is made out of flower petals, marking what’s thought to be the first time petals have been used in a marquetrystyle manner on the dial of a luxury watch. Carefully preserved, cut, and then arranged on the dial, the petals evoke the look of feathers. Add to it the fact that it’s a limited edition, and

Serpenti, 150 diamonds set in white gold and pavé dial, BVLGARI

it ticks that all-important exclusivity box, too. Fine-jewellery lovers would do well to look to Van Cleef & Arpels as well: This year, its Enchanted

Slim Steel Strap Calitho, HERMES

Nature series is a sought-after one for feminine

UK’s The Times, “and I love extreme luxury.”

women, who value high-end design. Achingly

Which would go some way to explain why he

pretty charm watches – each design linked to

created an ultra-exclusive RM 19-02 Tourbillon

flowers – they pair fine jewellery with functionality,

Fleur ladies watch for SIHH 2015. With just 30

with a bangle attached to the case. Since size is

in existence, they will retail for up to $800,000

so key in the women’s market, Van Cleef offers

each. An alternative limited edition Mille to own

not one but three versions, from small (25mm)

this year is ideal for equine lovers and social

to large (38mm), with a trio of floral themes,

butterflies alike. “We recently released our first

such as Désir featuring lilacs for young love and

ladies watch to honour our partnership with the

crocuses for happiness. While the dials are set

Polo Club Saint-Tropez,” says Bacardit-Stamm.

with dazzling gems and painted in enamel on

“The ladies white ceramic RM 07-01 Polo Club

mother-of-pearl, the charms have colours to tie

Saint-Tropez is limited to 30 pieces.”

in with your chosen floral theme.

But, if it’s the technical aspect of a timepiece

For those of you who feel luxury should only

that excites you most, embrace mechanical

exist in the extreme, Richard Mille could be

watches. “Women, including women in the

the brand to look to – its chief designer shares

GCC, are looking for a complication that should

your sentiment. “I hate volume,” Milletold the

remain refined and elegant, well integrated into

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harnessing the brand’s 100 years of expertise in miniaturisation. If you feel it’s what’s on the inside that really counts, several watchmakers have this year debuted models with skeletonized movements, showcasing intricate workmanship. Take Vacheron Constantin’s Harmony collection: Designed to celebrate the brand’s 260 years, the maison has modernised its usual cushionshaped watch. The result is a dual time small model, equipped with self-winding Calibre 2460 Ballon Bleu De Cartier Floral-Marquetry Parrot, CARTIER

DT and features a mechanism that’s a first for the brand. Its notched crown facilitates adjustment in either direction without damaging its mechanism – and in the ladies case, the Harmony dual time comes in a white gold ladies’ version, featuring a bezel set with 88 diamonds (1.2 carats) and displaying the hours, minutes, seconds, as well as a day/night indication and the dual time function after which it is named. If you’re a woman, who’s perpetually on the move, what could be better? Of course, there’s no shame in embracing all-out glamour – and here Faberg é comes up trumps with its latest Lady Compliquée collection. Of them, the Lady Compliquée Peacock will dazzle: the divine diamond-studded bird to be found on its ice-white face fans out its tail every hour on the hour. Set over a subdial snow-set with Paraiba tourmalines, green tsavorites and white diamonds, its minutes are carved in white mother-of-pearl. Beautiful enough to make you forget the time altogether. To others, it’s simply size that really matters.

Rendez-Vous Ivy Minute Repeater, JAEGER LE-COULTRE

Madonna has long been papped about town in a men’s Longines and making a ‘I wear the trousers’ statement with a men’s watch is

the watch of a small diameter, and beautifully

still very much en vogue – though not entirely

designed,” says Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Creative

new. “Some of our lady clients will choose not

Director, Janek Deleskiewicz. “So, we keep

to wear a ‘ladies’ watch at all and feel more

inventing new fascinating functions for women;

comfortable wearing a watch from our men’s

for example, a little star on the dial of the

range,” comments Richard Mille’s ME Bacardit-

Rendez-Vous Celestial that can move around

Stamm. To get ahead of the man-sized trend

the dial (the rotation is made possible with a

this year though, why not go against the grain

second crown) and be set on an hour to remind

and downsize instead? While the saying goes

of a rendezvous or an appointment on that day.”

that ‘a woman can never be too thin or too rich’,

Of that Rendez-Vous line – all of which include

neither, this year, can a Swiss watch. Piaget is

such complications as the tourbillon, perpetual

spearheading the super-slim, with the wafer-thin

calendar and a celestial chart with zodiac

4.65mm Altiplano Chronograph. Possessing the

indications – the Ivy Minute Repeater is also

thinnest hand-wound flyback chronograph in

one-to-own. Midnight blue, with ivy adornment

the world, it launches in September 2015 and

and delicate diamond decorated leaves, it’s a

will make any wearer look timelessly elegant.

piece that combines fine-jewellery aesthetics

If you still hanker for a timepiece of larger

with the prestigious repeater complication,

proportions, though, the blur between men’s

and women’s sizes continues. Thirty-seven millimetres is typically considered to be a woman’s watch size today, which can be seen to handsome effect in the Portofino Midsize collection by IWC, which offers sizes up to 40mm accessible for both sexes. Elsewhere, Baume & Mercier’s Classima collection now also includes a women’s automatic, 36.5mm in diameter. Whatever timepiece you choose to add to your collection this year, though, how you wish to wear it may also help you to choose the one. “Colours are important,” says Momentum’s Malik. “Sometimes, women just want to change the look by changing the strap colour; black or brown looks good, but mint green stands out! A new strap makes a new watch, especially when you use exotic colours.” If you’re something of a chameleon, then, the dial may also be a matter to muse over. “The dials are usually neutral like silver, gold, or white which makes it easier to accessorize them with funky colours,” adds Malik. If you would prefer your timepiece to look like part of your fine jewellery collection, this is easily achievable too. “We have seen more and more women actually wearing gold watches on bracelets,” says Malik. “They wear them as jewellery and combine them with bangles or bracelets on the wrist.” Anna Dello Russo, Vogue Japan’s eccentric editor-at-large, is one woman regularly seen teaming a Bulgari Serpenti with chunky gold cuffs on one or both arms, showing that it’s possible to wear what’s traditionally considered an evening watch in the daytime, too. To look totally and effortlessly classic, though, certain timepieces will serve you well for a lifetime, such as the Cartier Tank, a square-faced piece that dates to 1917 and was favoured by timeless style icons, from Jackie O to Michelle Obama. If you remain a classic collector, Malik says one investment is key. “Rolex, no question,” he says. “They are iconic and timeless, stand for quality and investment. If you look at the history, they have never lost their flair. They are hand-down pieces and will never go out of fashion.” Scour wrists on the red carpet, meanwhile, and you can tell a lot about an A-lister from her watch of choice. This year, actress Elizabeth Olsen was snapped in an oversized, black Chanel J12, teamed with a tuxedo jacket and black leather trousers. Such a combination says much about the new rules for wearing a watch in 2015: Buy right, style wisely and you can wear a watch that looks fabulous and fitting at any time.

VIII-Grand Bal Unique, CHRISTIAN DIOR

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A cc es s o ry affair s

Oriental Earth Colours evoking colonial Jaipur revisit accessories, and inspire designers as ornate rings as they accentuate bangles in marigold and necklaces of ruby. Calling one to embark on a discovery of earthy hues and olden transcend into autumn.

ALBERTA FERRETTI

metals made contemporary as we

1. CHOPARD | 2. BUCCELLATI | 3. DAMAS | 4. BVLGARI | 5. LUCIFER VIR HONESTUS

218

Grounded Metal Gleaming silver surfaces mirror the night sky, as high jewellery looks to the stars for inspiration. Moulded into futuristic rings and mounted with diamonds or finely accenting the dials of a watch, paying testament to the

EMILLO PUCCI

cosmos is paramount this season.

1. CHAUMET | 2. BOUCHERON | 3. BVLGARI | 4. CARTIER | 5. EDDIE BORGO at Saks Fifth Avenue

Precious Potency Photographed by David Goff Styled by Kelly Baldwin

Sautoire Necklace with amethyst and diamonds, in yellow gold, VERSACE FINE JEWELLERY

Earrings with honey citrine and diamonds, in yellow gold, VERSACE FINE JEWELLERY

Ring with green peridot and diamonds, in yellow gold, VERSACE FINE JEWELLERY

Earrings and ring with rubellite and diamonds, in rose gold, VERSACE FINE JEWELLERY

Earrings and ring with amethyst and diamonds, in white gold, VERSACE FINE JEWELLERY

Two Fingers Ring with black onyx and diamonds, in yellow gold | Ring with black onyx and black diamonds, in yellow gold, VERSACE FINE JEWELLERY

Sautoire Necklace with honey citrine and diamonds, in yellow gold, VERSACE FINE JEWELLERY

Sautoire Necklace with amethyst and diamonds, in yellow gold, VERSACE FINE JEWELLERY

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J e w ellery I ns igh t

A Journey with Cartier

From Pablo Picasso and Henri Matisse to Edith Wharton, the French Riviera has played host to many a notable artist. Acting as a catalyst of inspiration for their Etourdissant high jewellery collection, MOJEH took a special journey with Cartier through the famed French coast.

Encased in glass – from necklaces and bracelets to earrings – jewels shone. Detailing the craftsmanship that goes into each and every piece, we were told: “We wanted to design a bracelet because it’s more wearable for the women of today, and it’s more modern.”

The Etourdissant Novelty is as exquisite in person as it is in a photograph. Combining a rubellite tourmaline emerald with an array of diamonds in pink, white and yellow gold, it is a timeless design.

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Delving into their historic archive, the Sortilege de Cartier collection was also on display. Exploring the world of fragrances, this bracelet drew inspiration from the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;White Queen Flowersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; in perfumery.

Dining with a beautiful view of the sea, set in a historic villa, celebrities mingled as they, too, showed their love for the luxurious designs. Cartier’s CEO, Stanislas de Quercise, and guests – award-winning director Sophia Coppola and brand ambassador Bianca Brandolini d’Adda – enjoyed the intimate setting.

Kristina Bazan with friend.

234

Exploring aspects of femininity and love, this bracelet from 2009 emphasised an exceptional set of heart-shaped diamonds.

This necklace is “a timeless piece. It’s the first time we’ve used black sapphires. The snake gives it movement and makes it come alive”.

Moving from room to room, colourful flowers engulfed the setting, with lush green grass and garden features that led to pieces of treasure.

The Maisonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s iconic mascot, the PanthĂ¨re ring featuring diamonds, emeralds and onyx in white gold â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the majestic animal has been a signature staple since 1914.

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B e a u ty Ic o n

E f f o r t l e ss

Beauty Elisa Sednaoui is the ultimate multi-tasker. Model, actress and philanthropist, her time might be pressured, but her iconic natural beauty look is anything but.

Born in Italy and raised between France, Italy and Egypt, Sednaoui possesses an effortlessly natural beauty that shines, whether she is at a premiere draped in Elie Saab or working with children in Egypt as part of her namesake non-profit foundation. Never overdoing it when it comes to her beauty regime, 27-year-old Sednaoui eschews a fully made-up face in favour of bare skin – she rarely wears foundation and swears by frequent applications of moisturiser. A combination of clean diet and plenty of green tea is her simple secret to a consistent glow. It’s a fresh-faced look that translates smoothly onto the big screen, as roles in Eastern Drift (2010), The Legend of Kaspar Hauser (2012) and Les Gamins (2013) can attest to. The face of a Roberto Cavalli fragrance, a Chanel eyewear campaign, and starring in film La Femme Bleue for Giorgio Armani, Sednaoui is no stranger to the fashion limelight either. Her beachy waves and barely-there makeup look are a breath of fresh air in a sea of elaborate makeup rituals – and have us reaching for the nearest sea salt texturising spray. “The more you grow, the more you realise that it’s all about balance,” Sednaoui once said. It’s a balance that is truly working.

Images courtesy of Getty.

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Photographed by Sarvenaz Hashtroudi

b e a u ty N ote

Left to right: EstÃ©e LAUDER, Pure Color Envy, Thrilling 470 | CHANEL, Rouge Coco, Etienne 446 | DIOR, Rouge Dior, 5th Avenue 813

B ERRY B I TTE N As signature reds evolve into more wintery hues, give your pout the power with sultry shades of ox-blood red, vampy violet and burnt sienna.

GUCCI, Tiger Lily 440 at Harvey Nichols Dubai | DOLCE & GABBANA, Dolce Inferno 333 at Harvey Nichols Dubai | NARS, Charlotte 9457

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T h e B ea u ty N e ws

This Is Not A Gym:

BARE Fitness We’re no strangers to the latest trends in fitness and whether it’s FlyBarre, SoulCycle or aerial yoga, we’re caught in an endless search for a body toning and health enhancing fitness regime that will keep us inspired. BARE Fitness is the new kid on the block, a gym that is decidedly not a gym, and which promises answers. With its stylish interiors and a refreshing focus on nutrition, Dylan Eiffe designed BARE as a lifestyle brand that understands what other gyms sometimes don’t: Namely, that 90 per cent of us prefer working out in a group and that the formula for weight loss is 70 per cent good nutrition and 30 per cent training. Classes include CrossFit and BodyPump (trainer Josefine Wallstromer tells us that workouts are intense, but that each class is carefully altered according to your level of fitness), while a prescriptive dietary plan based on mindful eating and committed meal tracking takes care of all important nutrition. We’re game. Because we all know the one thing that keeps us motivated: Results.

Time to Chill We’ve seen the Instagram posts of many a celebrity, model or sportswoman diving out of a cryotherapy big freeze (-140 degrees and counting), but as the beauty trend shows no sign of abating, how can the technique be harnessed to target specific areas of the body? We tried the Beauty Angel Professional & CRYO Combo facial at the CRYO Health clinic in Jumeirah Emirates Towers, Dubai. During the treatment, infrared light penetrates the dermis to stimulate the production of collagen and hyaluronic acid (reducing fine lines and wrinkles) before a localised cryotherapy treatment of intense cold constricts and dilates capillaries, which flushes away toxins and activates collagen again. As good as Botox, but non-invasive? After relaxing under the intense light for 15 minutes wearing a thick collagen mask, then enjoying the cooling effects of the icy CRYO breeze, we left with rosy cheeks and woke up the next day with noticeably plumped skin. Great for instant rejuvenation before a big event. A course of treatments is recommended for sustained results.

CRYO Health, The Boulevard, Jumeirah Emirates Towers, contact@cryo-health.com

Jessica Alba photographed by Stefanie Keenan/Getty Images. Iceberg photographed by Joe Raedle/Getty Images.

BARE, Al Abraj Street, Downtown Dubai, info@Bare.Fitness

Honest Beauty Actress, mother and business mogul Jessica Alba is expanding her Honest Company empire with a beauty line. Honest Beauty, including 17 skincare products and a 66-piece cosmetics line, has always been part of Alba’s impressive masterplan. “We should all be proud of being ambitious and wanting to lead very full lives,” Alba told us in MOJEH Issue 23. “A lot of it is just about willpower and not giving up on yourself.” Available online and for six months at a pop-up store at The Grove in LA, the range follows the principles of the Honest Company, building on natural, effective ingredients, free from all the things we know to avoid, including parabens, phthalates, petrolatum, sulfates and chemical sunscreens. Soothing botanicals such as chamomile, calendula, aloe vera, rosehip and green tea take their place and are sure to make Alba’s latest venture an honest to goodness winner.

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B e a u ty F eatu re

Leave behind the classic black liner and opt for starburst blue, like Natalie Portman – the season’s electrifying shade brings to mind limitless sky and oceanic mystery. 4

Dip your finger tips in metallic ink as at Tagliapetra, or opt for

Blue Steel

Armani’s deep blue eclipse.

Glitter up your eyelids with electric tones of cosmic aluminium and deep cerulean.

No longer are tones of deep rouge, berry blush and grape confined to gothic culture. Immerse anew in the feminine beauty of newfound Victoriana, like Amanda Seyfried and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley. 1. GUERLAIN, Kiss-Kiss Balm | 2. AMANDA SEYFRIED | 3. EMANUEL UNGARO | 4. ILLAMASQUA, Slick Lip Stick | 5. ROSIE HUNTINGTON-WHITELEY | 6. CHRISTIAN DIOR, Continental Lipstick | 7. LANCOMÃ&#x2030;, Vernis Mon Essentiel | 8. CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN, Djalouzi Matte Bullet

Colour your lips in shades of deeper berry, exuding casual elegance for winter.

Dip your nails in rich gothic-inspired hues, adding a touch of contemporary Victoriana.

Dark Victoriana

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m o j eh b ea u ty

French Beauty: ten Things I Know about

She has dedicated her life to beauty. Mathilde Thomas, founder of skincare brand Caudalie and author of newly published book â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;The French Beauty Solutionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, shares her lifelong beauty lessons, the French way.

Photographed by Matthieu Raffard.

Mathilde Thomas

1. Your beauty routine should make you feel good, and at the same time, make you look good. Luckily, adapting this attitude into your skincare routine is incredibly easy. For the French, the best does not have to be expensive. 2. With your skincare routine, keep it simple with an emphasis on good skincare rather than make-up. Without a great canvas, it’s very difficult for make-up to be all that effective. I always suggest drinking lots of fluids to keep your skin hydrated. Your make-up will last longer if you skin is healthy and well moisturised. 3. My mother has no cellulite. She is so active, she is never still, always going somewhere and walking in her vineyards. I am pretty sure that cellulite is based on your skin complexion, but also on the way you move everyday. 4. A beautiful face starts with a clean face. Your skin needs to breathe. If your face is always covered with make-up, it can’t renew its cells and won’t be able to absorb the skin treatments adapted to your skin. 5. Your skin reflects what you eat and drink. Good food is full of vitamins and nutrients directly used by your skin cells. 6. Sports should become part of your daily life. When I lived in New York, I used to bike to work everyday. From biking and wakeboarding to skiing, I really enjoy all the 8. French women are willing to put up a

a good conditioner, and say good night;

good fight for many things – like glowing,

you’ll wake up with hair that’s got just the

7. You should definitely avoid all the

healthy skin – but one arena we are

texture you want.

unnatural ingredients I have removed

willing to walk away from is our hair. For

from my cosmetic products: Parabens,

us, the epitome of hair chic is accepting

10. French women have a sort of effortless

phenoxyethanol, preservatives that are

what we’ve got and making the most of

beauty and sense of savoir-faire that

allergenic and disturb the hormonal

it. We get a fantastic cut that enhances

seems to be part of their DNA. Beauty is

system, mineral oils (such as paraffin and

whatever kind of hair we have, and we

an art de vivre (translates as ‘the art of

Vaseline) that are petrochemicals derived

do the minimum possible to keep it in the

living’). Skincare should never be a chore

and skin occlusive, synthetic artificial

best shape.

and remain simple: Cleanser, toner, eye

sports that are linked to nature and pleasure!

colourings, phthalates and animal-derived

cream, serum, and moisturiser with SPF

raw materials.I believe in a greener planet.

9. More than anything else, this is the

in the morning, and ditto at night (without

I formulate my products for all women who,

number one French beauty secret for hair:

the SPF and always take off that eye

like me, don’t want to choose between

The easiest way to enhance the au naturel

make-up!). Exfoliate at least twice a week

effectiveness and naturalness, between

look is to go to bed with hair wet from

to remove dead skin cells. Use masks

glamour and ecology.

your shower. Use a tiny bit of shampoo,

regularly for treatment and hydration. Voilà!

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B e a u ty n ote

Oc e a n V i e w

Photographed by Hareth Tayem

Dive into your new seasonal skincare regime with revitalising serums and soothing creams. As we endure cooler climes, look towards marine extracts and hydrating elements to go underwater for beauty.

Left to right: LA MER, Illuminating Eye Gel at Harvey Nichols Dubai | DIOR, Hydra Life Pro-Youth Sorbet Creme

CHANEL, Hydra Beauty Essence Mist | LA PRAIRIE, Advanced Marine Biology Revitalizing Emulsion

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Tal k ing P o i nt

Is the Ketogenic Diet the New Atkins? By Laura Binder

its famous predecessor, it’s a diet with early origins. Originally devised by endocrinologist Dr Henry Rawle Geyelin in 1921 to curb seizures in epilepsy sufferers, he discovered that a strict diet involving a 4:1 ratio of fats to proteins and carbohydrates resulted in a dramatic reduction in inflammation throughout the digestive system – a common cause of epilepsy. Today, though, this method is not only being used for medical gain, but for weight loss too – and everyone from Hollywood beauty Megan Fox to Victoria’s Secret model Adriana Lima are trying it. The balance they swear by? High fat, low carb and moderate proteins. Follow suit and you can fill your cupboards with proteins like fish, chicken and meat; ‘good fats’ such as olive oil, avocados, cream, butter and nuts; plus low-starch vegetables and a sprinkling of low-glycemic fruits including berries. The catch? You’ll need to kiss goodbye to the likes of white bread, pasta, grains and sugars.

Dubbed as the dieting world’s new power-player, MOJEH explores this latest weight loss trend.

Ketogenic Diet Specialist Tracey Eccles recognises the diet’s newfound appeal to dieters. “Firstly, the Atkins Diet is a form of the Ketogenic Diet; approximately a 1:1 ratio,” she says. “In fact, the modified Atkins Diet is used for some individuals for epilepsy management. My personal opinion is that this lifestyle change of ketoliving can be adopted for weight management and the associated health benefits. Therefore I don’t believe

“Carbs make you fat.” If there’s been one message

ketogenic living should be limited to only epilepsy

generously spoon-fed to body-conscious women the

management.” Speaking about its health benefits, she

world over, it’s this. The words came from Dr Robert

credits the medical (“improved seizure control and, in

Atkins, a man whose controversial low-carb diet – first

multiple cases, seizure free”) as well as the aesthetic.

devised in 1972 but made famous by his 2002 book,

“Other benefits include weight loss, improved mental

Dr Atkins’ New Diet Revolution – had everyone binning

clarity, improved energy levels, some report improved-

their rice and pasta and shunning bread baskets.

looking skin, for example acne reduction, improved

The high-protein diet advocated starving the body

irritable bowel symptom and generally feeling great

of carbohydrates, forcing it to burn its fat stores to

and looking great.”

produce energy; a process known as ‘ketosis’. At the

The question on every woman’s lips, then, is what

height of the diet’s popularity, three million people in

should they eat for each meal of the day? The Ketogenic

the UK had reportedly tried it, while one in 11 people

Diet Resource website offers up menu suggestions to

in the USA were on it. The book was on the Top 10

help dieters who’ve achieved ketosis. For breakfast,

New York Times bestseller list for six years, with over

you could be tucking in to a hearty feed of eggs and

15 million copies shooting off shelves and into bread-

bacon with coffee and full-fat cream. Come lunchtime,

free households worldwide. Low-carb products hit the

try halibut in a buttery sauce with a cup of salad

supermarket shelves faster than we could count, while

greens, full-fat dressing and an unsweetened drink.

magazines bombarded us with a fit, honey-limbed

Then for supper savour a rib-eye steak with butter

Jennifer Aniston – a dedicated follower – as well as

or a garlic cream sauce with salad greens in a low-

Demi Moore and Catherine Zeta Jones looking better

carb, high-fat dressing. “On a ketogenic diet, dietary

than ever. Together it confirmed the message: carbs

carbohydrates are kept very low, protein is moderate

bad, protein good.

and fat consumption is increased, gently encouraging

More than a decade after Dr Atkins death, many

our body to remember how to rely on fat as a primary

continue to follow his dieting rules, seeing the dreaded

fuel and to produce ketones from stored body fat,”

carb as a fast route to bloated stomachs and rotund

explains Dr Divya Samant of Dubai’s The Health Factory,

derrieres. But now a new sister diet is tipped to gobble

a leading wellness company that creates dietary plans

up the affections of Atkins’ fans: The Ketogenic Diet. If

for the city’s most body-conscious. But, Divya adds,

you’re yet to hear of it in the GCC, you soon will. Like

it’s not quite what it says on the label. “The Ketogenic

Fashion’s Fearless Season, photographed by Federica Putelli, MOJEH Issue 25.

Diet is a high-fat diet, not the high-protein diet which is often portrayed,” she says. “Reminding your body to burn ketones requires a period of ‘keto-adaptation’ in which severe carbohydrate restriction is paired with high fat consumption.” Converts say that eating such large amounts of healthy fats helps to curb their cravings and hunger pangs, meaning they consume less calories. And the proof is in the pudding: Kim Kardashian credits her mammoth post-pregnancy weight loss to the Ketogenic Diet following the birth of her daughter, North. Reportedly losing 56 pounds, Kim managed to get back to her perfectly-proportioned self. Celebrity nutritionist Keri Glassman implies that Ms Kardashian was prone to a little cheating, however: “Although they’re calling Kim’s diet ‘ketogenic’, she didn’t actually cut her carbs to ketogenic levels,” she told Access Hollywood. “Reports say she limited herself to 60 grams of carbs per day. On a true 1,800 calorie ketogenic diet, carb intakes would be as low as nine to 18 grams per day. That wouldn’t even allow you the doctor-friendly apple a day.” Dietician Eccles says that the level to which you take the diet’s ratios depends on the desired outcome. “There are many forms used today from 1:1 to 4:1 ratios of fat to protein plus carbohydrate combination,” she says. “The higher ratios are predominately used to treat medically refractory epilepsy. Carbohydrate restriction is used as treatment in pre-diabetes and Type 2 diabetes, as eating the ketogenic way helps normalise blood glucose levels. Lower ketogenic ratios are typically used in weight management.” Of course, any dieter will tell you that cutting out food groups is far from a piece of cake – and Patrick Holford, founder of Zest4Life and best-selling nutrition author, says this one is no exception. “It is hard to do a ketogenic diet because you have to avoid almost all carbs for about four to five days to switch to ‘ketosis’.” But it’s not all bad: “It can, however, have real benefits in a number of diseases where a cell’s sugar metabolism is impaired,” he goes on. “This includes diabetes, epilepsy and even dementia. It may also be good for some athletes. You also lose weight.” “Staying on ketosis makes it easier for many people to maintain weight loss as one can enjoy eating meat, poultry, fish, eggs, vegetables, nuts, butter and cream, thus enjoying rich foods,” adds Dr Samant. Despite the perks, some dieticians have their reservations. Back in the early noughties negative headlines raged against the wonder Atkins Diet: “High-protein diets damage kidneys”, “Atkins can put you in a bad mood”, “Obese patients warned off Atkins” and “Atkins could trigger diabetes” are just some of the headlines we read. The Ketogenic Diet has come under scrutiny in the same way, with some experts slamming the negative effects

of achieving ketosis by eating lots of high-fat dairy

every fad that comes into fashion. “These women

products and cooked meats: a recipe that they say

fall in the trap called ‘weight cycling’, which is losing

can contribute to anything from poor kidney function to

weight and gaining weight repetitively for years and

colorectal cancer. Holford too has his doubts. “There’s

then reaching a weight plateau. Moreover, the results

a paradox,” he says. “Sometimes a ketogenic diet is

of extreme weight loss are not sustainable as it leads

sold on the basis that that’s how we used to eat – that

to more muscle and water loss than fat loss.”

it’s a ‘caveman’ diet. Now here’s the rub: to get into

Eccles, however, argues that you don’t need a Kim

ketosis you need lots of fat so people are encouraged

Kardashian-sized team of staff to follow the diet

to have 30% fatty meat. A wild animal averages 5% fat.

long-term, but does advise on the assistance of a

So, how do you get an animal that fat? The answer is

professionally-trained dietician. “One size does not fit

you feed it carbs, usually corn. Sugar makes you fat.

all and for the best benefits the appropriate ratios for

So, people are eating obese animals, made fat from

weight loss and then maintenance requires individual

too many carbs, to reverse their own obesity, generated

calculations,” she says. “Blood tests are an important

from eating too many carbs.”

marker to watch micronutrient levels, electrolytes

If recent studies by the British Medical Journal are

and blood lipids. Remembering that learning a new

anything to go by, eating red meat from grass-fed

habit, including changing the way you eat, takes a

animals is now considered ‘good for you’ – and could

minimum of 60 days. Once you have established the

be one way of ketogenic dieters avoiding Holford’s

ketogenic living way of life, this may be continued by

paradox: just look at where your meat comes from.

the individual without regular follow-up.”

While European meat is thought to be primarily grass-

For now the reaction – from the Kim K-loving advocates

fed, American meat is reared on concrete grounds and

to the health-conscious and cautious – remains mixed

fed lots of corn.

and the research into what could be the wonder diet

Regardless of the fine print, Dr Samant recognises a

of 2015 is ongoing. “I know many people who tried it,

market of women in the UAE who will likely try the diet in

felt bad – worse joints, headaches, constipation – and

pursuit of their dream physique – with Western women

quit,” tells Holford. “I know some who really like it and

being particularly dedicated to the weight-loss cause.

have found it reversed their diabetes, for example. I

“Due to women’s commitment to multiple roles and

know very few who have consistently stayed on it

juggling responsibilities, they get attracted to short-cut

because it only takes a piece of fruit, bread, pasta

methods of eliminating certain food groups from their

or rice to come out of ketosis.” His parting advice?

meal plan, consuming fat burners and metabolism

“The best diet is one that simply becomes a way of

boosters,” she says. But Divya warns against trying

life.” Food for thought.

Photographed by Opticopia/cultura, Corbis.

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Get the Look:

Strobing

Contouring takes a backseat as strobing becomes the go-to beauty technique for instantaneous glowing and sculpted features â&#x20AC;&#x201C; specific products applied on areas of the face naturally capture light, creating an illuminated finish.

4 Redefine your features with precision gifted by a brush of contour blush.

Gift your skin the ultimate glow with lightweight and moisture rich formulae.

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252

Tal k ing P o i nt

C h a n g in g

fac e s International supermodels, global trends or just a matter of science? We look at the meaning of beauty in the modern age. By Laura Binder

In the days where Cindy, Naomi,

to Saint Laurent and Prada are backing

Linda, Kate and Claudia flowed down

Asian influences, transporting us to the

the runways in Barbie-like form, the

Orient with parades of warrior-like pony

answer to the age-old question, ‘what is

tails and buns and rebellious flicks of

beautiful?’ was loud and clear: classic,

black kohl, from the fine to the thick

young, glamorous and feminine. Since

and feline. Meanwhile, Estee Lauder’s

then, fashion and beauty trends have

latest global ambassador, Liu Wen, sells

evolved as often as a supermodel’s

products to an audience of every origin.

haircut, encouraging women to update

A whole new wave of Asian supermodels

their looks and reinvent themselves into

have entered the fold, too: the willowy Ji

anything and everything from a Bardot-

Hye Park can be seen walking for Oscar

esque bombshell to a bare-faced beauty.

de La Renta and Liu Wen struts down

The new millennium brought with it an

the Victoria’s Secret runway as its first

influx of fresh-faced supermodels, who

Chinese model while the bleach-blonde,

entered our psyches together with a

Seoul-born Soo Joo Park is a Chanel

constant stream of media images which

favourite. What differs today however is

only worked to strengthen our newfound

that the look doesn’t limit itself to Asian-

obsession with social media platforms.

born models or an Asian market. Instead,

Despite this, scientists would argue

the allure can translate to every face, from

that the true answer to the question of

Cara Delevingne’s slick top knot to Gisele

what we find beautiful is found not on

Bündchen’s winged eye liner.

billboards but in neuroscience – a medium

And it doesn’t stop there – Africa too is

that consumes our subconscious and

fast becoming an icon of beauty, illustrated

transcends any fads or fashions. The

this year with Prada’s warm embrace of the

defining factors of what they believe

afro. The short and sweet style stood out

makes an attractive face? Gender-typical and perfectly-symmetrical features. Take Fink & Penton-Voak, whose 2002 study showed that women found men with “relatively prominent cheekbones and eyebrow ridges and a relatively long lower face” attractive. Likewise, men found “prominent cheekbones, large eyes, small nose, a taller forehead, smooth skin, and an overall young or even childlike appearance” to add to a woman’s allure. The thinking? That we’re programmed to be attracted to features which show strong indicators of masculinity or femininity and in turn reflect a person’s health – and therefore ability to successfully reproduce. Symmetry too has shown itself as a major player in the beauty stakes – a factor common in most supermodels. Where men and women have been asked to compare versions of faces that are more versus less symmetrical, the symmetrical ones gained significantly higher ratings of attractiveness, dominance and health – and are perceived to be more desirable as potential mates (Rhodes, Proffitt, Grady, & Sumich, 1998; Shackelford & Larsen, 1997). Outside of the research labs, the modernday world continues to influence our perceptions of beauty. The latest trends to take over the catwalk or fill magazine pages tell us what look is desirable right now. On the runways, everyone from Carolina Herrera and Cushnie et Ochs

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But an ability to cherish faces and features of all origins? Surely thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s true beauty defined.

among 41 swishing ponytails. Elsewhere,

of beauty, combined with models of mixed

Karly Loyce’s soft ‘do stood out on the

origins – from Jourdan Dunn to Rosie

catwalk for Céline during the A/W 15 Paris

Huntington-Whiteley – could create a

Fashion Week.

wider regard for beauty that even science

Elsewhere, the classic Californian blonde

can’t account for.

remains ever in our psyches with the bare-

“I don’t think that there will be just one

faced and honey-haired Gisele and Karlie

look that will be held on a pedestal in

Kloss at Chanel and Jason Wu. Michael

the international fashion industry in years

Kors and Ralph Lauren, too, hailed the

to come,” predicts Leila Antakly, General

beach babe with bronzed tones and the

Manager of Wilhelmina Models Dubai.

kind of sun-kissed make-up and tousled

“Multi-cultural backgrounds have changed

hair that made western models look fresh

that and instead, embracing one’s unique

from an island get away.

beauty will be revered.” It’s a notion that Dr

For some women, such international

Rezai seconds. “I believe that today women

beauty ideals can serve up too many

are indeed embracing their cultural identities

opposing influences, leading them to

and choosing quite consciously to follow the

forget their own personal identity or

norms of beauty within their own culture,”

ignore their natural-born features in

he says. “The Middle East has a rich cultural

favour of other cultural norms. It’s a

heritage. The fact that today’s generations

notion that Plastic and Reconstructive

are proud of it and want the rest of the world

Surgeon Dr Allen Rezai of Elite Plastic

also to understand, respect and indeed

and Cosmetic Surgery Group in Dubai

admire it can only be a positive thing.”

and London’s Harley Street, recognises.

What’s set to follow the current beauty

“The concept of what is beautiful and what

trends, then, remains to be seen. But an

isn’t changes with time, just like fashions,”

ability to cherish faces and features of all

he says. “In the UK and throughout the

origins? Surely that’s true beauty defined.

western world, more often than not, being slim is considered beautiful, whereas in the Middle East a curvier figure is found more attractive.” Such cultural influences can be seen to dictate preferences when going under the knife in pursuit of ‘true beauty’ – or what the individual personally deems to be ‘beautiful’. Women from the Middle East, notes Rezai, most often request rhinoplasty, choosing typically Caucasianshaped noses. For others, though, the current international beauty ideals carry a positive influence, with a variation that encourages them to embrace rather than ignore their roots. “In the case of breast augmentation, the tendency used to be to opt for a major increase in size, even to the extent of it being disproportionate to the rest of the body. Today patients tend to seek a more natural look,” observes Rezai. “In nasal surgery, people are wanting a nose that is in proportion with the rest of their face, as opposed to the narrow, pinched nose which was for many years being requested in the Middle East.” From Prada’s afros to Cushnie et Ochs Oriental-inspired eyes and Chanel’s beach blonde waves, beauty of all forms appears to be celebrated in 2015. Asian faces are selling to western consumers, while everyone from Cara Delevingne to Liu Wen are dabbling with current beauty trends. Such an all-encompassing show

256

M o j eh H ealth

What’s in a Dream? How many times have you woken up in a hot sweat or scratched your head as you recount an extremely vivid dream, and wondered what it meant? It may be your subconscious trying to tell you something…

over 20,000 dreams during his lifetime, and theorised that dreams were the key to understanding the psyche. He famously said: “Until you make the unconscious conscious, it will direct your life, and you will call it fate.” Could our dreams be a combination of signs and symbols with meaning? “Some people say that they never dream, but the reality is that they just don’t remember their dreams,” says Ian Wallace, a psychologist, who specialises in dreams and is the author of ‘The Top 100 Dreams’. “Even though it may seem a challenge to remember your

By Susan Devaney

dreams, all you have to do is remember three words: Will, still and fill. When you lay your head on your pillow to go to sleep,

Last night, I dreamt I went to Manderley

say to yourself, ’Tonight, I will remember my

again. Rebecca by Daphne Du Maurier

dreams.’ When you wake up, lay completely

has one of the most memorable and highly

still for a minute. Don’t move, don’t look at

acclaimed opening lines of any fictional novel.

the time and don’t even wiggle your toes.

Immediately, we enter her dreamy world and

By staying still, images and emotions that

we’re captivated. It’s this prospect of the

you have created in your dreams will emerge

unknown that draws us in, because we all

for you. Then, all you have to do is fill in the

still don’t understand our own dreams.

gaps between the images from the dreams

Ever since Sigmund Freud published his

that you have created and your dream story

controversial theories about the meaning

will begin to appear.”

of dreams in 1900, we’ve been tossing and

Putting together the pieces and trying to

turning about what our dreams are trying to

build a story or pattern from our dreams

tell us, if anything at all. Freud was convinced

has resulted in two major developments

that they represented some of our unfulfilled

in dream research – big data and brain

desires or hopeful wishes, but is that really

imaging. Detailed snapshots of our brains

the case and are we any further forward in

and researchers using sleep labs to gather

reaching an answer today? “Nobody knows

information have led to the discovery that

the answer to that question,” says Patrick

there is a more significant link between

McNamara, a neurologist at Boston University

dreams and meanings. Scientists have

School of Medicine and the graduate school

learned a lot about the physiological process

of Northcentral University in Prescott Valley

of dreaming, which occurs during our REM

in Arizona. “Dream content has some clear

sleep. “A form of sleep where we have vivid

regularities. We know, for example, that

dreams – l last for about a half hour to 45

whenever male strangers occur in a dream,

minutes, so the longest dream can last up

physical aggression against the dreamer will

that much. REM sleep occurs up to 4-5 times

occur. So, dreams appear to have a kind of

per night,” explains Patrick. The kinds of

code, but we are only beginning to unlock

cognitions we tend to experience whilst we

that dream code.”

dream are usually highly emotional, visually

It’s this concept of trying to decipher some

vivid and probably illogical. “Our dreams

kind of code that keeps pushing us to interpret

are one of the fundamental neurological

our dreams. The famous Swiss psychiatrist

processes that we use to make sense of

and psychotherapist, Carl Jung, analysed

the world,” says Ian. “Although your dreams

Free Love, photographed by Olivier Rose, MOJEH Issue 27.

258

may seem like a stream of random imagery that makes absolutely no sense, you are just expressing yourself in a different and far more creative way. To understand why you are dreaming a particular dream, all you have to do is work with the imagery and emotion that you have experienced in the dream.”

A recurring dream is like someone repeatedly shouting your own name until it gets your attention and you attend to something important in your waking life.

Every night, around the world, people will experience a similar dream to someone else. From our teeth falling out and being pregnant to being chased by a stranger, we’ve all shared a common dream – but why? “Nobody knows the answer to this question,” says Patrick. “There may be a dream code wherein certain images express certain universal meanings. The dream code would be rooted in human biological realities;

dream is like someone repeatedly shouting

for example, REM sleep is associated with

your own name until it gets your attention and

atonia (muscular weakness) or paralysis in

you attend to something important in your

multiple muscle groups. This paralysis gives

waking life.” Some scientists believe dreams

rise to sensations throughout the body that

serve to help our brains process emotional

is interpreted by the dreaming mind as

memories and integrate them into our long-

experiences like flying/floating, teeth falling

term memories. “It is important to figure out

out, etc.” Up until recently, researchers have

the meaning of a recurring theme dream,”

been working on relatively small samples

says Layne Dalfen, a dream analyst. “… the

of dream accounts. But, new websites

mere fact that it repeats is the indication

and mobile apps (such as DreamBoard or

that your subconscious is trying to call your

Dreamscloud) are encouraging people to

attention to solving the problem!” In our

share their dreams, in turn allowing scientists

dreams, we may try out various scenarios to

to analyse dreams and move a step closer

deal with what’s coming up in our life – for

to concluding research.

example, an important work meeting, giving

Reccurring dreams are also an element of

birth, etc. “Understanding the meaning of a

dreaming that we’ve all experienced. Trying

particular dream theme enables you to apply

to figure out why something or someone

that awareness to a specific situation in your

keeps appearing in your dream night after

waking life,” says Ian.

night can be exhausting, but should we pay

There’s no doubt that our conscious and

any attention to our reccurring dreams? “Our

our subconscious play major roles in our

dreams are the language of our unconscious

dream patterns (something that shrinks and

selves and when we create a dream, we use

psychologists have long proclaimed). What’s

it as a way of expressing a vital part of our

been discovered thus far suggests that current

awareness that we may have difficulty in

scientific research reveals an enormous amount

articulating in waking life,” explains Ian. “If

about what role dreams play in our lives, and

you do not resolve a waking life tension by

how vitally important they are for biological,

working with the imagery from the dream

psychological or social reasons. As scientists

that you use to express it, then you will keep

continue to research the processes, meanings

sending yourself that message again and

and biological reasoning behind our dreams,

again in your dreams until you take action to

we know that reflecting on our dreams is useful

resolve it positively and healthily. A recurring

and can give us a great insight into ourselves.

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M o j eh B ea u ty

From a faint glisten to a bold sweep, catapult your look into new galaxies with shimmering shades of midnight blue and silver crush, lightening your lids with a sprinkling of sparkle. Clockwise from top left: GUERLAIN, Ecrin 4 Couleurs, 09 Les Noirs | TOM FORD, Eye Color Quad, 08 Sahara Haze | DIOR, Colours & Effects Eyeshadow Palette, 886 | GUCCI, Magnetic Color Shadow Quad, 100 Ocean Rhapsody at Harvey Nichols Dubai | LAURA MERCIER, Eye Chromes Eye Colour, at Harvey Nichols Dubai

Photographed by Sarvenaz Hashtroudi

GALA C T I C GLA N C E S

A Place In Time By Natalie Trevis

We bring together three inspiring contemporary artists from around the globe, who are using everything from performance art to textiles to make a statement about some of the most pertinent political, humanitarian and feminist issues being faced in the Middle East today.

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A rt is ts in R es ide nce

Manal Al Dowayan Working in black and white photography, sculpture and video among other disciplines, contemporary artist Manal Al Dowayan is exhibited in the permanent collections of the British Museum and the Jordan National Museum of Fine Art. Born and raised in the Eastern Province of the Saudi oil industry heartland, she is consistently drawn to themes of collective memory and the representation

All images courtesy of Manal Al Dowayan.

of Saudi women.

Suspended Together (2011)

How do you select your subject matter? I work with subjects that occupy my thoughts and impact me personally. It is a mere coincidence that I belong to the region or to a country. Many try to interpret my art as messages speaking on behalf of a specific group, but in reality, they are works that come from personal reflection. Do you feel that in some way, you represent the Middle East in your work and your travels? Cultural diplomacy certainly can create a space for exchange and understanding. Most artists contribute to this dialogue between nations and people, even within their own countries. Again, given this statement, I try not to represent anyone except myself and my art when I travel the world. Can art direct a political discourse? I believe art does not instigate change; art creates a safe space to ask questions and engage in conversations that can always be the first steps towards change. What have been some of the challenges you’ve faced in tackling issues of women’s freedom? The biggest challenge has been to have the international media – and sometimes the local media that caters to expats in the region – abandon their stereotypical portrayal of the Arab/Muslim woman as weak, oppressed, or an exception to the rule. This expectation has impacted me throughout my career. Which artists continue to inspire you? This changes every month for me. Currently, I have a huge interest in the works of Dayanita Singh and Palestinian writer Sahar Khalifeh. What’s next? I am producing a work that incorporates the craft of Sedu weaving. A new medium for me and an exciting learning experience.

Ahlan Marhaba, from And We Had No Shared Dreams (2010)

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Identity Complex Identity, hand woven wool carpet with laser cut letters

Have you always been inspired to address issues of national and cultural importance to the Middle East? Many of my projects are working with contextual shifts and the Middle East is a context I personally relate to, as my father originates from Iran. I, however, was born, raised and live in Germany, so my relation to the region was always something distant to me, but something in which my interest still continues to grow. Do you feel that in some way you are an ambassador for the Middle East in that sense? No, I don’t think so at all and it has no influence on my work whatsoever. I feel an artist should also have the freedom to mess up, change and not be forced to represent something. Mahmoud Darwish once said, “I don’t decide to represent anything except myself. But this self is full of collective memory.” I like this quote a lot. Does living outside the Middle East gives you an element of artistic freedom? That is an interesting point; I actually do think that is true. I work a lot in relation to Iran, but have the freedom to show projects outside of the country and can address social issues and restrictions quite freely. And, I often directly work with the differences and transitions between two places or contexts. At the same time, I try to avoid one-way narratives – it is more about putting things in relation, shifting things a bit and observing the outcome. Do you see any direct ways in which your work has sparked a change? Discourse, maybe, but change? If I want to change things, I should do something other than art. But, if I want like, then I think art can do a lot. I see art pieces that influence me and my life, so I am living proof of this theory. Your work spans many mediums, from performance art to video installations. Which do you feel most at home working in? Most of my works are initially conceptual, so I work with the medium that makes most sense for me. I end up doing video often – it’s a medium that allows me to work very directly, me and a camera. It is also nonexclusive as everyone nowadays has a video option on their phone, and it allows spatial as well as time-based arrangements. What’s next? I am currently preparing a solo exhibition at Art Foundation Erich Hauser in October, in which I will premiere new work. After that, I am going to Goethe Institute’s Villa Kamogawa in Kyoto for three months for a research project.

All images copyright Anahita Razmi and courtesy of Carbon 12.

people to think about our contemporary crazy world, about possible change and what this change could look

Re/cut Piece performance still

Anahita Razmi Represented by Carbon 12 in Dubai and inspired by a sense of the political, Razmi frequently returns to the work of feminist artists and icons such as Tracey Emin, adding a dash of her own irreverent humour along the way.

Middle East Coast West Coast still, video

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Larissa Sansour London-based Larissa Sansour is unapologetically immersed in a continued political dialogue that frequently ventures into the realms of science fiction

Olive Tree, Nation Estate project

and the fantastical. Addressing issues relating to the complexity of life in Palestine and the Middle East, Sansour is represented by Lawrie Shabibi in Dubai and is currently working on a film supported by the Arab Fund

All images courtesy of Larissa Sansour.

for Art & Culture and The Film London Artistsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Moving Image Network.

Nation Estate poster from the Nation Estate project

Tell us about the issues informing your work.

“too pro-Palestinian” and that caused major media coverage. There are

My work specifically relates to Palestine, because I happen to come from

several fascinating layers to how politics played out in this story. Lacoste

there, and I do find the political situation in Palestine to be very urgent.

apparently deemed it dangerous enough to censor, yet their decision to

For Palestinians, politics is not an option, but rather a fundamental

exclude my work in order to silence it and distance themselves from the

circumstance, and this circumstance also informs my work. It is very

politics of it luckily had the complete opposite result.

hard for me to imagine making work not inspired by the situation in the Middle East. There’s simply too much going on, not just in Palestine, but

How did that episode affect you?

in the region as a whole.

Being at the centre of such a scandal has made me very aware of my role as a political artist. I understand the potential, but also the limitations. At

How does being based in Europe influence you?

the same time, I feel more motivated than ever to complete the projects

It could be a contributor to my interest in finding a universal language in

I am currently working on.

my work. I often reference film and pop culture and frame Middle Eastern reality in a more surreal, fantastical and international context. When I make

The issue of displacement is a key artistic theme in this region, how

a piece, I have the Arab and international audience in mind. I do not,

does it speak to you?

however, think of my work as a form of activism per se. I simply react to

In my work, tackling the identity of displacement takes on different shapes,

circumstances that I cannot remain silent about – without ever, at least

such as planting a Palestinian flag on a moon in A Space Exodus, or living

willingly, becoming a spokesperson for any political objective or purpose.

the high life in one gigantic skyscraper prison in Nation Estate. The tug and pull between the impotence and at the same time the empowerment

Can art effect change?

of this condition is very important to me.

Art has a unique ability to effect political change. It is a potent political portal that offers a unique perspective. After all, we would not have so

What’s next?

many assassinations and imprisonment of artists throughout history if this

I am currently working on a very big project that I expect to complete in

were not the case. What I am most fascinated by is the ability of an artwork

late 2015. In the Future, They Ate From the Finest Porcelain is a 25-minute

to induce political change, but remain grounded solidly in its art practice.

science fiction video essay inspired by the politicised archaeology carried

In 2011, my work, Nation Estate, was nominated for the Lacoste Elyseé

out in present day Palestine, exploring the role of myth and fiction for fact,

prize and was blatantly censored a month later, deemed by Lacoste to be

history and national identity.

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Tal k ing P o i nt

From Leonardo DiCaprio’s Instagram account to Pierce Brosnan’s, are celebrities influencing a change in the way we buy art? By Jareh Das

Two major stories made headlines in the last two months, due to the seemingly direct impact of social media on sales of artworks. The first was of British actor Pierce Brosnan, starting a bidding war and instigating the term ‘the Pierce Brosnan effect’, after he posted a photo of himself in front of an auction piece on his instagram account – Lockheed Lounge by designer Marc Newson. It broke the world record for a design object selling for $3.7 million. The artiste’s caption simply stated: “Let the bidding commence!” The other story was that American actor Leonardo DiCaprio spotted a painting, Nachlass by Jean-Pierre Roy, whilst using the social media app during the Pulse art fair; he purchased the piece (although this was denied by his art advisor) as a result. Other notable celebrity art endorsements included the select music to accompany an auction featuring 56 works of art by 31 black American artists. It was deemed a success and generated much Instagram coverage. The popularity in recent years of art buying platforms, such as Artsy and Paddle 8, have contributed to the popularity of online art buying. Artsy’s mission statement says the service ‘aims to make all the world’s art accessible to anyone with an Internet connection’, whilst Paddle 8 is an auction site that partners with ‘cultural institutions and international tastemakers, helping collectors discover new passions and fulfil their philanthropic pursuits’. Both sites, in partnership with major art-world stakeholders, have garnered momentum over the last few years, making art sales through the click of a mouse and allowing for viewing privacy through one’s computer screen. If you like what you see, voila! Artworks are shipped and delivered to your door. Contemporary art collectors (especially of a younger generation) travel the globe, from New York to London, Dubai, Miami, Sao Paulo, Berlin, Hong Kong and Singapore (a few examples), attending prestigious art fairs, biennials, auctions and museum blockbuster shows. While such globetrotting

Photographed by Thomas Jäger / Westend61, Corbis.

Drake x Sotheby New York auction, which saw the rapper

reshaped the way images of art are shared/viewed online. Some art dealers, however, are sceptical about fads and trends on Instagram making a direct impact on sales. Umber Butt, director of Dubai’s Grey Noise, states: “In my knowledge or experience, purchasing an artwork via who’s collecting who and where and how has been well practiced in the past. A serious collector will appreciate works on social media, but will always take the time to enquire about work before buying… it is wise to peek into the lives of others on social media, but acquisitions made online are rare and perhaps this is true only with ‘young’ collectors”... a young collector should be inquisitive and humble while collecting, in my opinion… showing off is not a problem, I believe what matters is whom you are showing off to…” A young London-based collector, who wished to remain anonymous, echoes Butt’s sentiment, but acknowledges that though he has spoken with dealers, who rave about Instagram and its sales capacities, “we are still yet to see if the platform might turn out to be the next generation of e-marketing for art sellers”. He goes on to further explain that whilst the art world still remains opaque, he is sceptical as to whether galleries will go as far is not a new phenomenon, today’s collectors share their art

as listing artwork prices via social media apps. “Instagram

encounters through social media, bringing their followers

brings a certain kind of collector with a certain kind of work

up-to-date with what’s hot or not within the art world. These

and is more of a beginner platform,” he concludes.

young collectors are looking more and more to social media,

With Richard Prince making and selling art by recycling

where ‘art-likes’ and conversations are shared through sites

various Instagram screenshots, dealers such as the

including Facebook, Instagram and Twitter, all of which

problematic Stefan Simchowitz discovering and hawking

are linked to the online art buying platforms mentioned

art via Instagram and various media outlets telling you which

previously. This generates and promotes an interlinked

artists to follow on the social media site, it seems that the

system of looking at ‘who likes what’, ‘who is following

dawn of sales via social media has very much begun.

whom’ and generally condenses global art exhibitions, fairs,

Although social media is no doubt opening up art buying by

biennials and auctions, all viewed and filtered through the

giving more and more people access to artists and works,

eyes of the art world’s elite – made up of artists, curators,

founder of The Art Stack, Ezra Konvitz, believes personal

gallerists, critics, etc.

recommendations IRL – which have now been transferred

London-based filmmaker, art writer and anthropologist,

online via social media – still play a key role in accessing

Emmanuel Balogun, feels that it is perhaps hard to tell if

art. He said: “Personal recommendations have always been

social media is directly contributing to how art is bought

important in buying art and social media helps make this

and sold online. Balogun feels that it is “definitely changing

more efficient – so, it’s definitely changing things, but in

the way art is consumed and expanding the demographics

the way most natural to the art world. It’s a parallel of how

that now engage with art, i.e. art buying and the promotion

things happens offline, but with greater variety and volume.

of gallery exhibitions/events”. Social media it seems, in

One of the reasons we started ArtStack was to bring social

particular Instagram with its strong art world following, now

discovery to art, enabling more people to find great art they

seems to be moving towards direct sales of artworks by

hadn’t already seen. People want to feel that they are getting

actively engaging with potential buyers through its sole

real recommendations and the even playing the field of social

emphasis on image sharing. We observe artists posting

media helps keep it honest.”

works on the platform from their studios and galleries sharing

The art world and its followers – both sceptics and optimists

fair booths, works for sale and even auction results as they

– will continue to watch closely to determine if this platform

happen, way ahead of the usual media outlets. Popular

indeed revolutionises the way art is viewed and sold online.

art press, BlouinArtinfo, now sends out a weekly round-

It seems evident that even as Instagram is a strong and

up of ‘art world Instagrams’ as a summation of art world

popular artsharing/discovery tool, the question of the art

happenings, and in the last week, they ran a feature on top

world’s openness, especially in relation to art pricing, is still

museums playing a game of swaps on Instagram, further

a grey area; dealings are still negotiated IRL for now. There

demonstrating the crucial role this social media site plays in

is no denying that we will all continue to share, see and

the cultural sphere. Instagram, ‘a simple way to capture and

be seen via social media and this will perhaps mean more

share moments in the world’, has had a profound impact

transparency in the art world. The debate around this opacity

on the viewing and selling of contemporary art online.

still raises doubts around the need for specialist knowledge

From its launch back in 2010 to the present, it has steadily

on ways of seeing, even in this age of social media.

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Wo ma n o f s ty le

Free Spirit Fashion stylist and one of the original street style darlings, Marina Munoz lives a cosmopolitan life in Brooklyn, New York, mixing sartorial influences from her Argentinian roots with a dedicated love of hats.

What has been your most cherished career moment? I got to style the cover of Time Magazine’s 100 Most Influential People and worked with my husband [photographer Sebastian Kim]. We shot Misty Copeland, who is now the first African American principal dancer at the American Ballet Theatre. That was a very special moment – it meant so much to me. Who is the person who has most influenced your style over the years? I am fond of American classics and the way French women dress and live. I am currently obsessed with Argentine chef Francis Mallmann – the way he dresses by mixing his native pieces like bombachas, botas de campo and ponchos with classic coats, blazers and

Marina with her two children on vacation

berets. He is so elegant and cool. He lived in Paris for a while and it shows. What do you always find yourself tur ning to for inspiration? I look at books, films, stores, designers, my friends and my husband. I am lucky to live in Williamsburg, New York, where there is such a strong movement of designers making things in the US. I support that movement – a lot of my friends are really into ceramics. There are some amazing stores here, like Marlow Goods, Oroboro, Electric Nest or Bird. My favorite new designer is Caron Callahan – she makes such great shirts and dresses. How do your Argentinian roots influence your style? My father would take me shopping as a child; he has a

Marina takes a turn in front of the camera

strong sense of style and a very Latin way of dressing. He loves a long camel coat, turtlenecks, cashmere and monkstrap shoes. When he was younger and

What is your favourite fashion related memory?

lived in Argentina, all his suits and shirts were made

Working as an assistant with fashion photographer Paolo

to measure by his tailor. I love the way Gauchos dress

Roversi (I assisted stylist George Cortina in Paris and we

and I appreciate the way Argentinian women dress

would often shoot at Paolo’s studio). We did a shoot

(like the French, but with an Italian twist): Very, very

where he turned the lights off and used flashlights to light

feminine and elegant. Argentine women are extremely

the model – he is one of my favorite photographers. When

stylish and the men are ravishing.

I lived in Paris, I was able to attend an Alaïa show and would often pull from his atelier. That is a fond memory

What is the one thing you always keep in mind

of mine – I am so lucky to have been able to work in

when styling a shoot?

Paris as an assistant. Everyone should work in Paris,

I like to keep it classic and timeless and create images

it’s such an experience.

that I believe in, and somehow tell a story. Keep it believable, effortless and cool.

Was there a moment when you realised you had arrived in the fashion world?

What experience have you had with Middle

I think when the whole street style phenomenon

Easter n fashion?

happened in 2009 and I was being photographed for

I worked for a while styling for Brides magazine and

wearing my Borsalino or Tardan hats and then my style

there were many Middle Eastern designers we pulled,

was deemed ‘cool’. It was really neat to me to see that

particularly Lebanese, like Elie Saab and Zuhair Murad.

I was somehow a part of what was going on, with my

I also really like Yigal Azrouël, he is cool and modern,

long braid, poncho and a hat.

and I worked with Noa Raviv on a show, whose pieces are designed by a 3D printer. It reminded me of lace,

What does the rest of 2015 hold?

but printed, and somehow eerie, like bones. I think

I have a beautiful family and I get to do what I love: Style

Middle Eastern women are very beautiful and elegant

people. I am very fortunate and I’m excited for whatever

and are not afraid of accessorising and using makeup.

comes next. I’m not in a rush, I’m enjoying every step.

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Enter Chanel

Over recent years, the fashion capitals of the world have played host to some visually appetizing fashion exhibitions – from Alexander McQueen’s Savage Beauty to China: Through the Looking Glass. Now, this autumn, it’s Chanel’s time to return. The French fashion house will showcase Mademoiselle Privé in the city of London’s Saatchi Gallery to exhibit some of its incredible design history once again.

Mademoiselle Chanel in her apartment in 1937

Seen through the eyes of Chanel’s creative director

white photographs of Karl’s favourite muses, from

Karl Lagerfeld, the exhibition will take you on a

Vanessa Paradis and Carine Roitfeld to Alexa Chung,

journey through both designers’ tenures. Delving

wearing the label’s iconic jacket and photographed

deeper into their visions behind Haute Couture, the

by Chanel’s helmer. Crossing continents and moving

re-editions feature the High Jewellery ‘Bijoux de

from country to country, the exhibition was hailed

Diamants’ collection created in 1932 (but reissued

as a success. So great is Coco’s legacy that our

at it’s casino-themed show earlier this year) and

interest in her has yet to waver. From her love of

Chanel No 5 – with some specially created designs

monochrome to striped Breton tees, her stylish

by Karl. It highlights a merging of great minds as

vision can still be seen today. Not only did her design

Karl has continued Coco’s original innovations into

skills and unique vision captivate society, but her

the 21st Century. They create the ideal fashion

own personality, too. From her bright rouge lips and

partnership: Two avant-gardists that never met, yet

her short black bob to her outspoken demeanour,

have designed with the same spirit and irreverence.

she was a force to reckon with. In 2009, a biopic

It’s not the first time the gallery has hosted a Chanel

film based on her life, ‘Coco Before Chanel’, was

exhibition – as recently as 2012, they showcased

released, with French actress Audrey Tatou playing

Little Black Jacket, featuring over 100 black and

lead, as her story follows her from orphan to Haute

Coco Chanel at the Ritz in 1937

274

Mademoiselle Chanel in Deauville in 1913

Couture designer in Paris. Her rags-to-riches tale is as fascinating today as it was decades ago. Just this year, the first retrospective of Karl, who’s extended Coco’s vision for 30 years, opened in the Bundeskunsthalle in Bonn, Germany. Since 1983 (10 years after the death of Coco), he has taken over the helm of Chanel. Having garnered the moniker Master of Reinvention, he’s transformed the label into the modern day, whilst keeping the label’s core values and Coco’s vision still firmly in sight. Unlike Coco, Karl was brought up in a wealthy family (his father was a German businessman) and they moved to the City of Light when he was just 14. His outspoken and straight to the point personality is of similar standing to Ms Chanel. Even though Karl designs for other labels such as Fendi and his eponymous label, it’s fair to say his greatest work has been achieved through his visions for Chanel. From haute couture to ready-to-wear, he’s produced many a covetable collection. Often surrounded by many muses – from Cara Delevingne to Kendall Jenner – he shows no signs of slowing down anytime soon. As both designers’ great stories are shared, our interest in fashion exhibitions looks likely to increase over the coming years. With Mademoiselle Privé taking over three floors of the gallery for three weeks this month, and opening for seven days a week, it’s free entry for all. Drawing inspiration from Coco’s personal taste and celebrating all things special to her – from places and materials to people – it will be an interactive insight into her world. Starting with a contemporary English garden (one of her great loves in life) and ending with exclusive workshops, it will be both fun and informative. Promising to bring forth the House’s foundations of “audacity, freedom and innovation”, it’s another fashion exhibition that cannot be missed. The exhibtion will run from October 13th - November 1st, 2015.

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T h e D es tinati on: lo ndo n

T h e

London It’s storied past is full of glamour. From Katherine Hepburn to Christian Dior, many a famous face has passed through the doors of The Savoy in London. After over 120 years in business, it’s easy to see why it’s still considered to be one of the best.

Images courtesy of The Savoy, London.

Es c a p e

Located on the banks of the River Thames, it’s placed in one of the city’s most cosmopolitan areas. As the fashion pack descended upon the Big Smoke last month for fashion week season, the hotel was a hotspot. Ideally located for seasonal shopping trips, visiting the Queen at Buckingham Palace or taking a ride on the London Eye, it is the ideal stay. A walk through the hotel showcases its exquisite décor. From room to room, its luxurious look moves from Edwardian to Art Deco, with nine of its ‘signature suites’ taking inspiration from some of the hotel’s most high-profile guests, such as actress Marlene Dietrich. And, for some of the more serious shoppers, there’s a spa for some relaxation and rejuvenation after a day’s trip. Its luxurious touch isn’t without a conscience: Over £2.4 million has been invested in high efficiency and sustainable technologies as it aims to be the most environmentally responsible and luxurious five-star hotel in the city. This comes as no surprise, since the hotel has been a leader in the industry from the very beginning; it was the first to have electric elevators and electricity throughout the hotel. With culinary creations that favour most British traditions, such as a spot of afternoon tea, there’s a touch of class in every corner.

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Get the

London All images courtesy of Getty and Imaxtree.

Look

With an exotic mix of Chinese and English heritage, Peony Lim is a staple of the fashion week circuit and one of London’s most polished street style mavens. Peony Lim was first spotted in 2011 outside of Somerset House, the current headquarters of London Fashion Week. Prior to her street style status, Lim completed a Fashion Promotion course at London University of Arts, and graduated with a First Class Degree in Art History from the Courtauld Institute. Now 27, Lim runs a successful blog, peonylim.com. Established in March 2013, the website highlights an easy mix of fashion, food, lifestyle and travel content, all documented from Lim’s travels between London and Asia. Alongside her online duties, Lim operates as a creative and social media consultant and a luxury brand ambassador, and has worked in collaboration with the likes of Chanel, Dolce & Gabbana, Michael Kors, Apple and Net-a-Porter. Combining luxury designer pieces (many of them vintage) with casual staples, Lim’s eclectic style is grounded in garments handed down by her mother. She also runs her own online boutique that offers a definitive edit of her favourite things, be it delicate handmade jewellery or customised garments, along with style guides on how to wear her pieces.

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D e sig n er I ns igh t

Fashion with A Conscience A Peace Treaty is a brand with a voice. Backed by the CFDA and offering artisanal jewellery, capes and caftans with striking ingenuity, creative director Dana Arbib tells us more about her mission to make slow fashion fashionable.

What’s your favourite place to travel to for design inspiration? I know it sounds so cliché… but Paris. France as a whole celebrates and supports the idea that the true luxury is handmade. Le Marché au Puces de Saint-Ouenis is a favourite place, where I love to see the rare and spectacular. Which place in the world feels the most like home and why? I would have to break it down into percentages: New York 35 percent, Tel Aviv 30 percent, Toronto 25 percent, Rome 10 percent I have lived in New York for the longest, but in general, it feels like a transient place somehow.

Creative director Dana Arbib

In your work for A Peace Treaty, what has been You champion artisanal techniques from around

the most challenging place to visit?

the world, how did that come about?

I would probably say India, for the main reason

My parents were completely the source of where

that it is difficult to get our jewellery collections

it all began. My father is an incredible fashion

completed in a small amount of time, and every

resource. He would show me all the beautiful

season, I only have about two weeks there. That

brands he grew up loving, and explain how things

being said, I also love it: it’s a beautiful, vibrant,

were made with such enthusiasm. My mother

inspiring country, and the team there for A Peace

would keep her special handwoven pashminas

Treaty does gorgeous work. I think the best things

in a protective box, which I would open without

in the world can sometimes also be difficult.

her knowing, so I could run my hands over them. What are some of the techniques that have You were involved in humanitarian work growing

surprised you on your travels?

up. How has this influenced A Peace Treaty?

Indigo mud printing was something new and

Being a humanitarian is how I was raised.

surprising for me. It is so simple and beautiful

From a young age, the belief that “if you have

to create. Artisans take blocks of wood cut into

the resources to do something, then do it” was

patterns, dip them into a clay bowl of mud, and

ingrained in me. I volunteered as a young teenager

print a pattern on the fabric. They let the mud dry

for different global humanitarian efforts, and the

in the sun, then dip it into vats of indigo that are

connections I built and still maintain has enabled A

underground. At the end, you have a reverse print

Peace Treaty to source some of our production. I’m

effect. Ok, maybe it’s not so simple!

compelled to showcase and preserve the talents and handmade techniques indigenous to special

Do you think the fashion industry has a greater

parts of the world.

responsibility to produce clothing ethically?

I think there is so much waste in the industry. Even though we clearly explain to vendors that we make pieces individually by hand, many stores will return an item for the tiniest, natural flaw, leaving us with stock we have to turn around in another fashion.

A Peace Treaty’s Gela Earrings

Yes, I think there is so much waste in the industry.

him. The support is priceless: not only do you get

Even though we clearly explain to vendors that we

advice from successful people in the industry, but

make pieces individually by hand, many stores

you also build relationships with so many people

will return an item for the tiniest natural flaw,

in different facets of your business.

leaving us with stock we have to turn around in another fashion. Yet, what makes A Peace Treaty’s

Do you think it is possible to sustain your model

products so beautiful are those imperfect moments

as A Peace Treaty grows?

in the handmade techniques we proudly support

Absolutely. We’re concentrating on working with

and use. Many luxury brands burn the unsold stock

certain countries that have the possibility to grow

at the end of the season; it’s so damaging and

our production and produce seasonal and ‘core’ A

wasteful. Outlet malls would be the obvious answer

Peace Treaty items. We figure out what everybody

to unload waste of that volume, but unfortunately,

does best, and spread the work accordingly.

there is a taboo around them, too. What’s your vision for the future of A Peace You are part of the CFDA {FASHION INCUBATOR}

Treaty?

programme. How did that come about?

To create an iconic, handmade, travel-rich lifestyle

One of my closest friends is ready-to-wear

brand and to make slow fashion fashionable. A

designer Jonathan Simkhai, who was in the

Peace Treaty hopes to make our travel stories viral,

previous 2.0 incubator, and told me that it was

and translate our aesthetic into different markets,

such an incredible and positive experience for

like a home line and more.

282

F i n al N ote

Clarity Looking forward with futuristic elements keeps things clear with the season’s most versatile styling note. As Perspex becomes your goes-with-everything wardrobe addition, pair with noteworthy accents of vinyl and metallic.

Photographed by Hareth Tayem

Clockwise from top left: FENDI | CHRISTIAN DIOR | NICHOLAS KIRKWOOD at Level Shoe District | L’AFSHAR

Photographed by Mark Squires

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