ISSUE 34 by MOJEH

NÂ° 34

FEB

THE CHANEL MOMENT

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THERE ARE EXCEPTIONS TO EVERY RULE.

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22 Chairman SHAHAB IZADPANAH

EDITORIAL

PUBLISHING

Editor in Chief MOJEH IZADPANAH

Publishing Director RADHIKA NATU

Associate Editor SHERI IZADPANAH

Publishing Assistant DESIREE LABANDA-GAVERIA

Managing Editor KELLY BALDWIN

Junior Publishing Assistant Kisada Hurin

Senior Fashion Writer Natalie Trevis

Paris Representative GHISLAIN DE CASTELBAJAC

Fashion Writer susan devaney

Senior Advertisement Manager Pamela Bayram Cleave

Editorial Assistant Dmitri Ruwan Sophie pasztor

Advertising Inquiries Tel: +971 4 553 90 49 Email: advertising@mojeh.com

Guest Fashion Stylists Alba Melinda JAMES V. THOMAS

Subscription Tel: +971 4 553 90 49 Email: subs@mojeh.com

ART

LOUIS FOURTEEN FOR MOJEH

Producer LOUIS AGENCY

Concierge Service Management daisy marchant

Art Director AMIRREZA AMIRASLANI

Corporate Manager JUBRAN HAMATI

Graphic Designer Balaji Mahendran

Online Division Ali Roman

Digital Strategy LOUIS AGENCY

Lifestyle Assistance kasia wawryszuk

Contributing Photographers Anthony Arquier Greg Adamski Pelle Lannefors NICOLAS MENU Sarvenaz Hashtroudi

Cover photographed by Anthony Arquier, models wears Prada

Published under HS Media Group FZ LLC Registered at Dubai Design District Building No. 8, Offices 212-213 P.O.Box 502333, Dubai, UAE. WWW.MOJEH.COM Louis Fourteen for MOJEH Follow us on Twitter @MOJEH_Magazine MOJEH Swiss Representative Office: Rue de Rive 4, 1204 Geneva, Switzerland Average qualified circulation (January-June 2015): 13,306 copies. For the UAE printed by Emirates Printing Press LLC. Distribution- UAE: Al Nisr Distribution LLC. Qatar: Dar Al Sharq. Bahrain: Jashanmal & Sons BSC (C). Oman: United Media Services LLC. Lebanon: Messageries Du Moyen-Orient The publishers regret that they cannot accept liability for error or omissions contained in this publication, however caused. The opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessary those of the publishers. Readers are advised to seek specialist advice before acting on information contained in this publication which is provided for general use and may not be appropriate for the readers particular circumstances. The ownership of trademark is acknowledged, therefore reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. All credits are subjects to change. Copyright HS MEDIA GROUP FZ LLC 2011

fashion avenue, the dubai mall, dubai chloe.com

avenuE AT Etihad towers, abu dhabi

M o j eh C o ntent s

Style 36. MY EDIT Zahra Lyla, a regional trendsetter, shows us how to embrace one of this season’s toughest looks, print on print.

122. HIGH VOLUME There’s a new fashion movement in town: say goodbye to sleek and slinky straight tresses, and hello to natural curls.

124. DEFINED BY SCENT Have you found your signature scent yet? From the modern-day muse to the risk-taker, manifest your mood with icons of fragrance.

Features 54. FROM ROME WITH LOVE

138. THE NEXT CHAPTER

From Chanel’s Métiers d’Art and Valentino’s Haute

Is there anything Cindy Crawford can’t do? We

Couture to Marco de Vincenzo, fashion’s focus has

get to know the muse, role model, mother and

fallen on Rome, but why?

(now) author.

66. THE YOUNG ONES

152. LIFE IN COLOUR: KAMELIA BIN ZAAL

As his star continues to rise we meet London-based

Kamelia Bin Zaal, creative landscape designer,

fashion designer Thomas Tait to discuss his trademark

discusses botanical blooms, books and building

experimentalism and the year ahead.

dreams in 2016.

Talking Points 46. THE YEAR OF YES Is saying yes the fastest way to genuine happiness? We explore the reasons to leave your comfort zone in 2016.

116.THE ANXIETY OF INFLUENCE As our pace of life continues to increase, we ask: why are today’s young women battling with high anxiety like never before?

146. THE RISE OF THE #GIRLSQUAD Are you part of one? We investigate one of the biggest trending words of 2015, and the social influence of a #squad.

Photoshoots 38. BLOOD LINES

88. UNINHIBITED AGE

From shades of scarlet and crimson to vermilion,

From the hustle and bustle of the city; escape to

this season we’re striking it red-hot. We edit the

the shoreline with chunky knits, lose silhouettes and

newest ruby hues fit for any mood.

simple structures.

74. A Cosmic Love

128. Dare To Blush

From Louis Vuitton and Miu Miu to Givenchy, escape

Move away from pink’s sweet sensual tones and

to a potent world where architectural shapes, and a

adopt a shade that’s more stylish and modern

muted colour palette reign supreme.

than saccharine.

E d i t o r ’s L ette r

Holistic Love Everything comes full circle. A saying I believe to ring true in most walks of life and one that I’ve leaned upon many times. In relationships, in business, even in fashion, what was made for you will be yours. In love, if everything comes back to the start, then surely adoring yourself first and foremost is key? With a shift towards spirituality, meditation and female empowerment in recent months, it might be something you’ve heard time and again, but this February – the month of love – I encourage you to truly think about, and use, this fruitful ideal. When choosing our cover shoot, instead of looking towards the usual dream-like, whimsical vision of spring, we wanted something fiercer. In an embodiment of empowerment, our model appears tough, wild and, most importantly, complete. Whether concentrating on work, family or both, the ultimate pillar in any situation will be you – so, make sure you’re the strongest and happiest version possible. Take the time to do the things you love. Look towards the article A Year of Yes for a small dose of assurance. Which leads me to my next point: This issue celebrates a cosmic kind of love; emotion and affection that defies distance, constraint and perhaps even tradition. In A Piece of Me, we asked three regional influencers to share a relationship that inspires and incites them, and from sisterly love and a mother’s admiration to the bond found between best friends, prominent relationships can reach far and wide. In a salute towards one of 2015’s biggest game changers, our cultural talking point focuses on the rise in girl squads – what can be gained from them and who the forces to be reckoned with are. Going back to my first point, everything starts and ends with you, who and what you choose to move through that journey with are entirely your call. But, whatever connections you make – material or otherwise – throw yourself in with every ounce of passion and dedication. Don’t leave anything behind.

Follow me on Twitter and Instagram @Mojeh_I and write to me at editor@mojeh.com

Mojeh Izadpanah Editor in Chief

Uninhibited Age, photographed by Greg Adamski

L I F E

I S

A B O U T

M O M E N T S

C E L E B R AT I N G E L E G A N C E S I N C E 1 8 3 0

L I F E

I S

A B O U T

M O M E N T S

C E L E B R AT I N G E L E G A N C E S I N C E 1 8 3 0

PROMESSE STEEL, 69 DIAMONDS 34 MM, QUARTZ www.baume-et-mercier.com

DUBAI Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons / Dubai Mall Boutique +971 4 339 8880 / Burjuman Mall +971 4 355 1717 / Mall of the Emirates +971 4 341 1211 ABU DHABI Al Manara International Jewellery / Sowwah Square +971 2 674 3444 / Abu Dhabi Mall +971 2 645 7575 / Yas Mall +971 2 565 0054 Abu Dhabi Marina Mall +971 2 681 3232 / St. Regis Hotel +971 2 667 3535 / Emirates Palace Hotel +971 2 681 9222 / Al Maryah Island +971 2 674 3444 AL AIN Al Manara International Jewellery / Al Ain Mall +971 3 766 8600

E d i t o r â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s SN A P SHOT s

A Fleeting Love 5

3&4

With love on our minds throughout the month of February, evoke a romantic mood with ethereal elements. Look to a softer colour palette of muted neutrals and ooze femininity through sensual silhouettes. Set pulses racing in Jimmy Chooâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s towering stilettos teamed with feathered diamonds by Chanel. 1. BIONDA CASTANA @avenue32.com | 2. OSCAR DE LA RENTA | 3. Iris Nazarena Eau de Parfum, AEDES DE VENUSTAS @net-a-porter.com | 4. WUNDERKIND | 5. CHANEL | 6. CHRISTIAN DIOR | 7. JIMMY CHOO | 8. BALMAIN @mytheresa.com

Co ve r s to ry

T H E L O N G H A U L

Earrings, PRADA

Photographed by Sarvenaz Hashtroudi

Dedicate your attention neck up this season, with Pradaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bubble gum-hued pompom earrings. Fearless in style and shoulder grazing in length, this longwearing trend has made headway this spring. Look to young contemporaries such as Alexander Wang for metallic hardware or timeless names like Oscar de la Renta for structured elegance.

A Timeless Hour Encrusted with sapphires and wrapped in white gold, Diorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s twinkling timepiece delivers elegance with stature. Set within a cerulean lizard strap, let your 19mm colourful creation lend to modernist silhouettes for daytime chic, or embellished refinement for eveningwear attire. A forever timepiece for all occasions, manifested within the discovery of style. Vividly striking yet undeniably feminine, the house effortlessly encapsulates the playful spirit of time. La Mini D De Dior Snow Set Watch, DIOR Timepieces

s t yl e note

Photographed by Sarvenaz Hashtroudi

Gone are the days of carrying just about everything in your oversized tote, as new season desires turn small but mighty. Designers deliver micro-mini versions of the seasonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most coveted bags â&#x20AC;&#x201C; affirming that good things really do come in small packages.

Clockwise from top left: FENDI | DOLCE & GABBANA at Harvey Nichols Dubai | SAINT LAURENT | CHLOÃ&#x2030; | SOPHIA WEBSTER at Level Shoe District

F a sh io n IN F O C U S

MOD-LAYERS Traditional layering is elevated with a range of new pieces designed specifically to transform the body. Throw on a sleeveless coat and loafers for

unparalleled nonchalance.

6 2

4 3

SHOULDER PLAY Artfully accentuate bare shoulders with elegance in lightweight frocks and sculptural blouses as

strappy shoes and statement necklaces exude timeless beauty.

2 7

S t yl e I ns ider

My Edit MOJEH meets regional trendsetter Zahra Lyla Khalil to see how she takes on one of the toughest seasonal looks, print on print.

Zahra wears a shirt by Equipment, culottes by Raoul and shoes by Gianvito Rossi

What was your inspiration behind your first look? I am a sucker for culottes and fell in love with this printed pair by Raoul. I thought I would be a little more adventurous with my outfit, so I paired it with another print. It is always fun to go a little outside your comfort zone when it comes to styling yourself, as you never know what you might end up liking. How did you build your look in your second outfit? My style is classic, but with an edge. So, I added a masculine blazer to what would be a very feminine look. The flamingo skirt and off-the-shoulder top, both by Dinz, make for such a girly outfit that I needed something to tone them down.

Zahra wears a blazer by Arwa Al Banawi, a top and skirt by Dinz and shoes by Topshop

Who are your go-to designers for prints? I can never get enough of Peter Pilotto. They really know how to mix prints with their cuts and silhouettes for a perfectly balanced piece. I also love the femininity of Erdem’s prints. What is your top styling tip for wearing print on print? Be careful you don’t go overboard. I like to wear print on print in a more subtle way, so I make sure it is collectively not too loud. If you’re not brave enough for head to toe, break it up with some block colour. How would you describe your style code? My style is classic, but with an edge. I like a little element of surprise when it comes to my outfits. I also love to mix feminine pieces with masculine ones, as I think the juxtaposition of the styles make the look more interesting. What has influenced your style most? I think it is mainly my body shape and age. As I am growing, my body is changing and I feel it is important to take that into consideration when styling myself. What I used to wear in my late teens would not work now, as I have matured and my style has evolved

Photographed by Rhys Simpson-Hopkins

with me. My go-to style has become a little more conservative and polished. How will you evolve your beauty look for spring? Which designers are you looking forward to for

For spring, I always like to go a little softer with my beauty

spring/summer16?

look, so I will bid farewell to bold eyeliner and opt for a

I love the new direction Gucci is going in and I can’t

softer grey shadow and bronzer. This will give me a fresh

wait to get my hands on their new collection. Marni also

and lighter look for the season.

stole my heart! What do you most love about summer styling? What are you top three trends for the season ahead

I love to be a bit more adventurous. Summer is about

and how will you be wearing them?

having fun and letting go, so I will be bringing that into my

Off-the-shoulder tops and dresses, metallic shades

style with lots of colour.

for daytime style and bold graphic stripes. I like to incorporate trends into my look in a more subtle way.

You travel a lot for your job. How do you approach this in terms of wardrobe?

What accessories are on your wish list?

It is all about taking versatile pieces with you, as well as

Everything and anything from Louis Vuitton and Gucci.

lots of pre-planning so that you don’t overpack. I also

Both of these houses are really great at creating

make sure to pack a few statement pieces to really

statement pieces that can instantly upgrade an outfit.

elevate my travel style.

L i n e s As defiant shades of scarlet, crimson and vermilion strike red-hot this season, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no denying the difficulty in conquering this fiery hue. But no longer only for the risk-takers, code red is headed into your closet with our edit on the newest ruby moods.

Photographed by Pelle Lannefors Styled by Olivia Cantillon

Top and skirt, HERMÃ&#x2C6;S | Red ruby and diamond ring, LA MARQUISE JEWELLERY

When wearing head-totoe red, keep structures simple. Offer clean-cut styles with minimal fuss to keep the focus on your two-piece.

Top, SALVATORE FERRAGAMO | Trousers, GIORGIO ARMANI

Break all the rules by teaming the scarlet hue with pink. The key to this colour combination is to collide textural fabrics of lace and silk, to create a luxurious disposition.

Pick up on the romanticism in the ruby shades of red and let a delicate rose become the focus of your look. Choose a contemporary, asymmetric silhouette to keep things cool.

Dress, A.W.A.K.E at S*uce

Reinvent your evening mini dress by layering it over a crisp white blouse. Use a flute hem cuff to create femininity with edge.

Dress, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN | Shirt, EMPORIO ARMANI

Cape, FENDI | Trousers, FATEMA FARDAN | Boots, CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN

Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be afraid to pair oversized silhouettes together, but do break up volume with colour blocking and a waist-defining cut.

Top, STELLA MCCARTNEY | Skirt, DELPOZO at Symphony

Break away from traditional pairings and team floral notes of green and pink with a floor-grazing, block-colour maxi skirt. Transition your look into daywear with mannish brogues.

Model: Karolina B at MMG Models Hair and makeup artist: Marisol Steward

Let the emphasis lie with your outerwear and combine textural offerings with contrasting prints. Keep your collar quirky and rubies red for a retro vibe.

Coat, BALENCIAGA | Shirt, CHLOĂ&#x2030; | 18K rose gold necklace with red rubies and diamonds, LA MARQUISE JEWELLERY

Photographerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s assistant: Ben Selley

Tal k ing P o i nt

The Year of Yes What’s the answer you give most often? Is it yes? We explore whether a year of saying yes to every opportunity, no matter how out of our comfort zone, is the fastest way to genuine happiness.

of Lighthouse Arabia. “A yes conveys positivity, curiosity, open-mindedness, hope, creativity, progress and is full of possibilities; but a no is a closed door.” For Rhimes, that meant forcing herself to take on challenges that were seemingly insurmountable prior to her quest, like giving a truthful and inspirational commencement speech at her alma mater, Dartmouth College, in the face of previously crippling stage fright. “I am not lucky. You know what I am? I am smart,

By Natalie Trevis

I am talented, I take advantage of the opportunities that come my way and I work really, really hard. Don’t call me lucky. Call me a badass.” Other personal victories included appearing on Jimmy Kimmel Live! and losing 100 pounds through exercise. Verity Mace, life coach and owner of Ebb & Flow Jungalows in Sri Lanka, has also

“You never say yes to anything.” Six

would have said no. “Ridiculous. But it’s

felt the fear and said yes anyway. “In early

words muttered to Shonda Rhimes, the

true. It’s clearly true. I am as sure of this

2012, I resigned from my job in media

most powerful show runner in American

as I am of the need to breathe.” A wake-up

planning and strategy in Dubai and moved

television, by her sister at a Thanksgiving

call for Rhimes, one of life’s eternal doers,

to south Sri Lanka,” she says. “I essentially

dinner in 2013. It was these seemingly

she decided that during the year ahead,

said yes to the call of adventure and a

innocuous words that jolted Rhimes into

“If I was asked to do something I thought

different pace of life. I was craving novelty,

reforming her self-protectionist, introverted

was scary, made me nervous or made me

nature and new challenges. I’m more

ways and write a book about her year of

worried, or feel I wasn’t going to succeed

aware of my strengths and my resilience

discovery: Her ‘Year of Yes’. Denying the

in it – I would say yes.”

and resourcefulness now. Had I not said

power of her sister’s statement at first, the

“When you’re not making the most of your

yes to moving jobs and countries, I don’t

career woman and mother-of-three was

life, whatever your life is, it’s not a life,”

believe I would have experienced such

already insanely busy, responsible for her

was Rhimes’s ultimate realisation during

rapid learning and growth.”

very own television empire, Shondaland,

her journey. Could it be that pushing

For some, yes is the abracadabra spell

as well as writing and producing ABC’s

ourselves to say yes to the things that

that opens doors. “Every time we say that

top-rated Thursday night shows, Grey’s

scare us, those half-opportunities that

word, opportunities arise,” says Adriana

Anatomy, Private Practice and Scandal,

are easily declined, ignored or forgotten,

MeBarr, meditation and power yoga

along with latest hit How to Get Away

whether a party invitation, work project

instructor and holistic coach at Soul and

With Murder. Yet, change was on its way.

or madcap chance to travel, is the key to

Mind Coaching. “There is no other way to

The final catalyst to transform a way of

unlocking an adventurous spirit, creative

learn something new, find a new romance

life that was making Rhimes “truly, deeply

flow or caring nature overwhelmed by the

or get fitter and healthier, if this word is not

unhappy”? Waking up one night in a cold

mundanity of routine? “Research shows

pronounced and exercised consciously.

sweat at the thought that if she had been

that people who say yes more often

Personally, I learnt later in life that fear

asked to sit in the Presidential box at the

than not to opportunities tend to have

doesn’t have to be a sign that we should

Kennedy Center Honours – which she had

more luck,” says Dr Saliha Afridi, clinical

say no to that scary trip or to that new love

done and unexpectedly enjoyed – she

psychologist and managing director

that technically was not exactly what we

Research shows that people who say yes more often than not to opportunities tend to have more luck. Dr Saliha Afridi

Making Tracks, photographed by Julien Vallon, MOJEH Issue 30

were looking for. It is just a sign that we

clinic suffocating under the weight of yes,

values? Can I afford to do this financially,

are trying something new, unfamiliar, out

because she wants to please everyone and

emotionally and energetically? Will this

of our comfort zone. I never regretted a

do everything. For her, freedom, growth,

take me out of my comfort zone and be

yes, even if took me into deep fear first,

opportunity and peace of mind lie in saying

a growth experience for me? Do I have a

before compensation arose.”

no.” It’s also a matter of values. A healthy

clear answer as to why I want to do this?”

Yet, like all of the best rules for life, positive

yes is one that doesn’t oppose the guiding

Besides, before we exhaust ourselves

boundaries must be drawn. If yes begins

principles by which you choose to live:

trying, we should know that it really isn’t

to equate with recklessness, there is

the idea of the yes philosophy is to find

possible to say yes to everything, no

power in a considered no. “I think there

enriching experiences rather than take

matter how much power you wield in the

are some who are people pleasers,” says

unnecessary risks. “One shouldn’t say yes

office or the amount of practical help at

Dr Afridi. “They say yes because they lack

to people or experiences that are asking

your disposal. There’s no such thing as

the skills to say no and are anxious about

them to compromise their integrity and

having it all. ”How do I do it all?” Rhimes

asserting themselves in fear of conflict and

their values,” says Dr Afridi. “Values are not

muses in the book. “The real answer is,

rejection. For such people, this philosophy

negotiable and should not be abandoned

I don’t. If I am at home sewing my kids’

of yes only reinforces their unhealthy

at any point, because the cost of living

Halloween costumes, I’m probably blowing

patterns.” This is all too evident among

a life of experiences that are devoid of

off a rewrite I was supposed to turn in.

her patients, some of whom are saying yes

values is very high. Before you say yes,

If I am accepting a prestigious award, I

to the wrong things. “I saw a lady in the

ask yourself: Is this consistent with my

am missing my baby’s first swim lesson.

If I am at my daughter’s debut in her school musical, I am missing Sandra Oh’s last scene ever being filmed at Grey’s Anatomy. If I am succeeding at one, I am inevitably failing at the other. That is the trade-off.” Mace agrees that yes is a potent enough word to be used sparingly. “There is a risk of thinking you can say yes to anything and everything, without saying no to others. The catch is, there is only so much time and energy to go around. When coaching clients around saying yes in their lives, I also ask what they might need to say no to. For example, in order to say yes to more ‘me-time’ they might need to say no to additional social commitments. It may seem obvious, but when every woman today is expected to be superwoman, it is not as obvious as you might think.” Where a blanket yes is a step too far, a mindful yes could prove a happy compromise. “A yes that opens you up to possibilities, pushes you out of your comfort zone, exposes you to new experiences, encourages positive feelings and allows you to fulfill your potential is a very different and more wholesome experience than a yes that is based on fear and unhealthy patterns,” notes Dr Afridi. “Before you say yes, have a clear and honest answer as to why you saying yes. Once the ‘why’ is clear, the who,

suggests shortlisting one action from each

little spontaneous adventure, saying yes to

where, when, what and how usually sort

field of your life, whether relationships,

the next question you are asked could be

themselves out!”

fitness, work or adventure and creating

the start of a whole new chapter of positive

Perhaps, in a world in which we are

a practical action plan to achieve that

decision making. “In my opinion, saying

overwhelmed with choices, decisions

goal. “Imagine you had all the courage

yes to life’s experiences is key and critical

and judgement (MeBarr outlines the

in the world – what would you be doing

to happiness,” concludes Mace. “We like

addictive five as: The need to be approved,

in all areas of your life? The answers to

to think otherwise, but in fact, we have

appreciated, accepted, acknowledged and

these questions will direct you towards

limited control over many external factors

to receive attention), saying yes can simply

fulfillment… Let fear be your companion,”

in our lives. What we do have, however, is

be distilled into a shift towards taking

she says. Whether you’re a one-woman

a choice as to how we respond to life.

greater control over our own happiness: A

television phenomenon seeking personal

And, we can take back our power and

conscious search for contentment. MeBarr

growth, or simply someone looking for a

be resourceful by saying yes!”

one to watch Meet Staz Lindes, a muse and supermodel in the making.

It’s her enviably plush pout that makes her instantly stand out. The London-

Staz Lindes walks for the Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane SS16 collection

born, California-raised Lindes naturally embodies that Saint Laurent cool girl aesthetic. After being discovered in a bowling alley at the age of 15, she was soon spotted soulfully strumming on a ukulele by Hedi Slimane, at one of her band’s gigs in L.A. After making her debut for Slimane for S/S16, everyone asked: Who’s that girl? She’s now amassed over 60,000 followers on Instagram, and counting. With a successful musician as a father (he’s the guitarist for Dire Straits), music and rock ‘n’ roll appeal are in her blood, and her wardrobe.

Staz Lindes photographed by Hedi Slimane

What has been one of your favourite moments in modelling so far? The Saint Laurent show. In what ways do you connect to the Saint Laurent brand? I’ve always wanted to look like Bowie or Blondie. What does it take to be a Saint Laurent girl? Conquering personal fears and doubts. What does music mean to you? I love to play shows and to connect to people via

Images courtesy of Saint Laurent, words by Susan Devaney

music. It is very spiritual for me. How does this influence your modelling career? I have gotten some jobs based on being more of an artist than a model, which is cool. I always bring my personality and my PMA (positive mental attitude) to the set. I don’t just sit there like a blank canvas or hang around like a clothes hanger, and I think that’s what people know and expect of me when they book me. Where can we expect to see you in 2016? Hopefully on the floors or couches of many new friends’ houses, whilst touring around America.

A Piece of Me February is the month that celebrates all things romantic, but we all know that love comes in many varied and wonderful forms. We meet three stylish influencers to find out more about a relationship they couldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be without.

Words by Natalie Trevis. Photography by Michelle at The Factory ME.

W o m en o f S ty le

Karen Wazen Bakhazi Style blogger at Karen’s Choice, and Ola Farahat, founder of Own The Looks

I know who my real friends are, the people that I can’t live without, whether I have time or not.

We met through friends in common and we hit it off straight away. Sometimes, you just meet someone you have a strong connection with. Today, my free time is much more limited and so I have very strong relationships with the people close to me. I know who my real friends are, the people that I can’t live without, whether I have time or not. Ola and I have very different lives, I’m married with three kids, and still we have so much to talk about and so much in common. We have very different personalities, but with the same ethics and principles. I’m shyer than she is. I wasn’t on Snapchat, but she would always tell me that I had to have it because she’s very outspoken. I did it! She made me realise that I also have a voice and have interesting things to share with people. We were friends before the idea of being a digital influencer really existed. We target different things – I’m more motherhood and she’s more fashion – but we encourage each other a lot. When I think of a project that Ola might be interested in, I call her up straight away and she does the same with me. She showed me that you can be really good friends doing the same thing, but with very little competition. The first time I ever had a live radio interview, I was so nervous. She happened to call me up and I told her I was freaking out. Ten minutes later, she was there. We practiced together and I kept thinking how lucky I was to have Ola sitting with me and boosting my courage right before the interview. I know that Ola is someone that has so much love to give and she’s such a good, genuine person. It’s really nice when you have real friends that are in the same field.

Ola Farahat and Karen Wazen Bakhazi

Maha Abdul Rasheed Creative director of vintage-inspired label Bambah, and her brother Hussein, owner of concept store, The Zoo

I live for relationships. I’m very lucky to be working with my family. It’s really comforting to be able to depend on someone that you know you can trust and someone you can have a laugh with all the time. With Hussein, it’s a little bit more special because we were best friends before we became business partners. We’re just a year apart in age, so we grew up together, went to school together and shared the same friends. Whenever we travelled, we were always the explorers; we’d wander off and hunt for cool collectibles and new designers. It was very natural for us to join forces and start the business together. I’m a little bit more business-oriented and he’s more designoriented, but it overlaps. It’s the perfect chemistry. Hussein is more the outgoing kind, for sure. He’s my confidence boost. He’s very spontaneous and lives for the moment. I’m a little bit reserved; I think of the consequences too much. It’s nice because we both rub off on each other. If I were to leave him on a buying trip on his own, we would go broke tomorrow; if I went alone, it would be pointless! All our moments are special. There’s always

Maha Abdul Rasheed and her brother Hussein

a milestone in our lives, because we’re very fast-paced. Some of the most special moments have been opening our boutiques. We do a lot of the work ourselves, from the design and fit-outs to branding and marketing: We’re almost like a two-man show, which is amazing because we love it. When you open your doors for the first time and welcome your first customer, it’s the most sentimental moment, because you just take a step back and think, “wow, we actually did it, we pulled through”. He pushes me to reach my limits and that’s why I value our relationship so much.

He pushes me to reach my limits and that’s why I value our relationship so much.

Jumana Al Darwish Co-founder of The Happy Box, and her daughter Ayla

She’s the love of my life. She’s taught me to really appreciate the small things in life and to look at happiness through her spectrum.

I was a workaholic before I started the Happy Box. Even though I chose a job in philanthropy and was working for the government, I still had long hours and would work overtime. I didn’t mind it because I loved what I did. But when I had Ayla, I started to realise that I needed to find a little bit of balance in my life. I’ve had amazing people work for me to help out with Ayla, but still I missed out on beautiful moments like her first steps. That’s when I realised that I wanted to spend more quality time with her, because even though I was with her after work, I would still be busy working on my Blackberry or answering emails. Starting this business has been the key to my happiness, to her’s and to my family’s (and other families as well). I had difficulty having children and was married for six years before I had Ayla. I had to go through IVF to have her. Nothing can ever prepare you for motherhood, no matter what you hear. The moment that she was born, she touched my face. From that moment on you realise that you are responsible for a human being, their well-being, their happiness, for them being alive. She’s the love of my life. She’s taught me to really appreciate the small things in life and to look at happiness through her spectrum. I want to teach her patience and that not everything has to be perfect. Learn to let go. Be confident. Appreciate life and its beauty and don’t listen to others. Listen to that inner voice, listen to it and just go with your intuition. I would love for her to do what she enjoys in life and I will fully support her in anything.

Jumana Al Darwish and her daughter Ayla

Tal k ing P o i nt

F rom R ome

With Love

From Chanel’s Métiers d’Art and Valentino’s Haute Couture to Marco de Vincenzo, fashion’s focus has fallen on Rome, but why?

come alive again, and they’re serenading us with ‘la dolce vita’ once more. During Haute Couture Fashion Week in July last year, it appeared as though designers had spent previous months circumnavigating the globe, scouring for creatively inspiring and dream-inducing locations – but not the Italians. They stayed put… and brought us a new Italy instead. Valentino’s haute couture show in Piazza Mignanelli – stretching out a runway from their historic atelier (along from the Spanish steps) in Rome – left the fashion crowd in awe. Roman designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli turned toward

By Susan Devaney

their beloved city and produced some very special clothes. From black pagan gowns and opulent gold capes to

It was her wide smile that held me

gladiator sandals fit for goddesses,

captive, as she zipped along the cobbled

the historic treasures of their beloved

streets of the ancient city. Wearing a

city were evoked through decadent

silk necktie, a pristine white blouse and

design. Speaking to MOJEH in July, they

billowing midi-skirt, she sat poised on

explained their concept: “In a way, we

her Vespa – with her lover right behind

don’t want to show Rome – we want

her. She zoomed past the historic

to allow people to experience Rome

architecture, leaving people lovingly

through our perspective. You can’t

indulging in gelato in her midst as she

describe Rome with only words. It has

soaked in the sun’s rays. Throwing

many aspects,” said Pierpaolo. “The city

out her legs like the spreading wings

is really the same as women are today:

of a bird, and free-rolling down the

Multi-faceted. There are many aspects

winding roads. Filmed in 1953, in the

living together and floating together,

iconic Cinecittà film studios, Audrey

whether monastic, sensual, aristocratic,

Hepburn and Gregory Peck have left

sexy, gothic or dark.” You can feel their

a lasting impression of why it’s always

love in the rich patchworks inspired by

good to take a Roman Holiday. From

the antique floors of the Eternal City

Alta Roma to Chanel’s Métiers d’Art,

and the exquisite craftsmanship. “We

the city of Rome is experiencing a

were both born in Rome and so, art

rebirth. It’s beginning to make Italy

is part of our lives. That’s why we find

Ladies of the Manor, photographed by Silja Magg, MOJEH Issue 7

56 Olivia Palermo photographed outside Valentino during AltaRoma

explains Piccioli. But that’s the success behind Valentino – they manage to mystically merge the past with modernity through emotion. Changes in the present, as the old guard move on, are making way for a new and energetic generation of young designers. And, it’s a variegated list. Alessandro Michele’s recent revival of Gucci has had everyone talking, for all the right reasons. He’s skillfully managed to inject a quirkier edge into the label, illustrating a softer side to a maison once considered to be falling behind other storied Italian fashion houses. Residing in Rome, taking over from his recent predecessor and boss, Frida Giannini, Michele is a risk taker (as are many of his other contemporaries following suit into this new found Roman limelight). Thinking of the Renaissance and the 1970s, he has fused a kaleidoscope of colours with girly gowns, new found geekchic and a sartorial nod to vintage styling in his collections for the brand. In short: He’s changed our view of Italian dressing. So has Marco de Vincenzo. He’s cleverly bypassed the signature Italian forte of mixing baroque with commercial sex appeal. Instead, he focuses on fusion and illusion. Shortly after graduating, he joined Fendi, designing handbags while forging a working relationship with Silvia Venturini Fendi. Also based in Rome, he finds his daily inspiration from “everywhere and in every moment. Creativity is often unconscious”. It took LVMH four years to take an interest in his work and now, the fashion pack has taken notice, too. If anything, he has a handle on how fabric should meander across women’s bodies with ease and elegance. His autumn/winter15 collection used vibrant and edged numerable designs. De Vincenzo is

close to us personally,” says Chiuri. “Art

a master of embellishment and trickery –

is a witness of our time,” adds Piccioli.

from cabochon studs on wool dresses to

“We believe that with fashion, you have

checkerboard-style contrasts on woven

to be a witness of your times too. It is

skirts, his technique is playful but romantic.

the same thing with art, but in a different

Speaking to MOJEH in 2014, he explained

language.” It’s a fresh removal from

his design process: “I produce everything in

Paris, and a (possible) spring toward

Italy and I personally go into every workshop,

a new fashion capital? Designers are

which helps me to realise a new dream,

investing more than just ateliers in the

every season. Being Italian consists of

city. “It is an important moment for us.

having no limits in experimentation and

We are opening a school of couture in

in quality. I try to take advantage of this

Rome and we are so proud to be able

privilege,” he said. He’s also got backing

to bring the culture of couture into the

from Fendi (no surprises there).

future, because sometimes, you think

Fendi, another storied Roman fashion

of couture and you think of something

house, embodies the heart and old

beautiful, but belonging to the past,”

soul of the city. During the Sixties

Images courtesy of Getty, Photographed by Valentina Frugiuele

vertical scaling across fabrics and fringing inspiration in it. All that we do is very

In Milan a lady illustrates her love for Italy

Street style in Rome

Street style during AltaRoma

and Seventies, Rome was full of couturiers and Fendi still invests in their craftsmanship today. Taking the old, but still looking to the new, the brand finds something in the city that other designers may overlook. As we’re all too aware by now, fashion is a means of expression – with emotion. “I think fashion should be an expression, so there’s always a human touch at Fendi,

Changes in the present, as the old guard move on, are making way for a new and energetic generation of young designers.

because we don’t like to take things too seriously. We may be a traditional company with a big history, but we’ve always been about taking risks. We want our audience to find something new, so you’ll never go to a Fendi show and find a white room – instead we’re

58 Fendi

Valentino’s haute couture show in Piazza Mignanelli in Rome

Marco de Vincenzo

very lavish in the way we express our ideas and the meanings behind each collection,” said Silvia speaking to MOJEH in 2014. In business since 1925, Fendi has collaborated closely with Karl Lagerfeld. Working with Silvia and her sisters, they’ve forged one of the in the industry. “There are no rules. I take ideas from him, he takes idea from me – it’s like osmosis,” she said. “He’s based in Paris and I’m in Milan, so often Karl will offer his ideas and then I’ll work each day to build on his references. I understand him very well now, so I know how to surprise him each time – to see the reaction in his eyes is something I’ve

But there’s something metaphoric in his vision: Could Rome act as a counterpart fashion capital to Paris? It’s very fitting for couture.

All images courtesy of Getty and Imaxtree

longest standing design relationships

been trained to find. When he comes to Rome, we only have a couple of days to

Chanel’s Métiers d’Art created a new Paris in Rome

pull everything together and make final selections, so we normally work through the nights and undoubtedly, things will continue to change up until moments before the show.” Maybe this is why Karl took Chanel’s recent Métiers d’Art collection to the streets of Rome. Taking us back to the city’s Cinecittà, erecting a set the size of the Vatican City, the theatrics and fantastical elements were fully charged. But, Lagerfeld merged two beautiful cities together in harmony. Down the runway came a depiction of the Italian Renaissance woman with demi-beehives paired with colossal hoop earrings and fine black lace tights – all fused with her inner chic Parisian. Think understated stripes, brocade tailored jackets and the classic Chanel pumps. It was an ode from Karl to Paris from Rome. It comes as no surprise, since Lagerfeld has had a close relationship with the city since 1963, and after his debut season designing for Tiziani. And Coco as well, who designed threads for Italian actresses like Jeanne Moreau, Anouk Aimée, Monica Vitti and Romy Schneider, each one starring in Italian films by Visconti and Pasolini, wearing her clothes. And Frederico Felini was there in spirit, too, as the show played out across Teatro 5. “It is just an idea, a dream, of Paris. We need to keep dreaming, because the reality in Paris is bleak. And that is not funny,” Karl told his crowd. The show went ahead after the Paris attacks in November last year, ultimately leaving a different city in its wake. But there’s something metaphoric in his vision: Could Rome act as a counterpart fashion capital to Paris? It’s very fitting

could take to the city’s charms. Young

for couture. Think of Giambattista Valli,

emerging designers, who are keen to get

another fellow Roman, who uses the

a foothold in the ever-revolving fashion

exuberance of his native city in his

wheel – such as Nicolo Beretta, Carlo

visionary designs. Season after season,

Volpi and Michele Chiocciolini – could

he produces gowns fit for goddesses

find a place in the historic city. Imagine

and sets alight a runway with lavish

Rome as an annual stopover for the

fabrics, and exquisite delicate details.

fashion critics and like. Would it not be

Not just fashion, but jewellery too.

a visual delight away from the industrial

The Bulgari family founded their luxury

horizon of Milan? They say a change

company in the city, and it’s still present

can be as good as a rest. Over the past

there today. Could it be possible that

decade, many a fashion critic has voiced

other major designers would follow suit?

their distain at Italy’s designers churning

Robert Cavalli and Emilio Pucci could up

out emotionally lacklustre designs –

sticks and take to the streets of Rome

but not now. In recent seasons, it may

from Florentine. But what if all roads

have lost its sparkle, but a Roman

could lead to Rome? Other designers

Renaissance is upon us.

W o ma n o f S ty le

All American Girl Katie Ermilio has fashion in her blood. Granddaughter to Grace Kelly’s personal clothier, she was part of the CFDA Fashion Incubator programme until 2016 and is a Forbes 30 under 30 talent in Art and Design. We meet the designer to find out how her youthfully uptown designs are taking her fashion legacy to the next generation.

How did your journey as a designer begin? If my great-grandfather had not founded Ermilio Clothiers, I cannot say with absolute certainty that I would ever have discovered that I was a designer. Growing up in my family’s custom clothing business, fashion has always been a huge part of my life. I began making clothes when I was a student at New York University and my work in design continued to flourish throughout my internship at Vogue magazine and into my first job as an assistant at Teen Vogue. Each collection definitely grows up with me, in a way. How has you family history influenced you? My father and our family business has influenced

By Natalie Trevis

me in so many ways, and continues to shape my work through tailoring and construction techniques. The importance of foundation, structure and material is something that will never leave me or my design process. I am also certain that my grandfather’s work for Grace Kelly, too, has something to do with my deep appreciation and love for classic beauty and femininity in clothes. Tell us about your earliest fashion-related memory. Dressing myself when I was a little girl. It was always jeans or dresses, which still rings true in my personal style today! Even as a young girl, I understood the power of clothes and how fashion can be transformative. What has been your most cherished fashion moment so far? One of my favorite fashion memories was seeing Kate Bosworth in the Watteau Pleat Gown from the autumn/winter 2014 collection at the Tiffany Blue Book Ball in 2014. Kate is one of those incredible women that can completely make a look her own, and it was such a special moment to see her in one of my favourite pieces from the season. Do you aspire to be a quintessentially American designer? I do. To me, being an American designer means that I approach my collections with elements of sportswear and design for the way we as women live in our clothes. The pieces must be as wearable as they are beautiful, and always embody that notion, whether it be in the pure construction or the spirit of the aesthetic.

Designer Katie Ermilio

Spring/summer 2016 collection

Tell us about your clean and minimal aesthetic. I am drawn to things that are tightly edited and well curated, whether clothing or otherwise. I strive to keep my silhouettes feminine and sophisticated, but also clean and effortless for the wearer. Touches of feminine detail balanced with minimalism allow the collections to remain fresh and youthful, while remaining inherently feminine. Which designer do you most admire? Raf Simons during his time at Dior. He remained brilliant at keeping the spirit of Dior alive through designs and work that are entirely his own. What has been the high point in starting your own line? Starting my own label five years ago was the biggest chance that I have ever taken. Yet, at the risk of sounding cheesy, it is pretty exciting that I get to design clothes every day. Being able to see the pieces come to life during the presentation of each collection is something I look forward to at each fashion week and it is always a high point for sure! How would you describe your personal style? Personal style, to me, is about more than just clothes, but in the way a woman carries herself. Personal style that is completely authentic is what I find the most exciting, but mine happens to be mostly about what is easy-to-wear and comfortable. To describe it in three words: Minimal, classic and streamlined, no matter what the occasion. Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s your favourite place to shop in New York? Barneys New York! And your favourite place to be in the world? With my friends and family. What do you think of fashion in the Middle East? Fashion in the Middle East is incredibly exciting! It has a life and an energy that is all its own. To me, this quality is as special as it is rare. Women in the Middle East are passionate about clothing and dressing, which is something I share with them as both a designer and a woman. What does the next year hold for Katie Ermilio? I am not certain yet, but if the next year is going to be anything like the last five, I know that it will be filled with a lot of clothes, expanded collections, and a lot of growth and excitement!

NATURAL WHIMSY

Fa sh io n b a n q ue t

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

The rush of crisp ruffles and the art of contemporary construction form delightfully whimsical pieces for spring. Back-to-front dresses and half moon sleeves provide a strong silhouette, accentuated by softer hues of caramel and ivory.

SICILIAN DREAMER

DOLCE & GABBANA

Let printed silk robes and hand-painted kaftans relay a captivating style story, while vibrant accessories call to mind exotic South America via bronzed snake skin and braided leather. The seaside becomes your new runway.

1 2

4 5

D e sig n er I nter vie w

By Natalie Trevis

Thomas Tait is charting his own course in a fashion industry that is operating at breakneck speed. We talk with the young, London-based designer about stepping into the spotlight, his trademark experimentalism and how he is making 2016 count.

All images courtesy of Thomas Tait. Profile photographed by Vanni Bassetti and backstage images photographed by Philip Trengrove.

The Young Ones

Designer Thomas Tait photographed by Vanni Bassetti

There are few designers who sum up the artistic verve of the London collections quite so well as Canadian-

Backstage at spring/summer 2016

born Thomas Tait, with his uncompromising vision, impeccable construction and engagingly off-kilter lines. His clothes might be as close as we get to avant-garde in a season of restrained polish, and he’s certainly well on his way to building a serious brand based on the kind of enigmatic, unquantifiable chemistry that revitalises our fashion palates every so often. It’s instinct rather than structured inspiration that fuels Tait’s creations, and it comes as no surprise that he is reluctant to anchor himself to any single definition. “I don’t necessarily feel that comfortable saying ‘I’m an avant-garde designer!’, because I think that in comparison to a lot of what’s going on right now in fashion, not-so-avant-garde things might look avant-garde. But, I always like the mystery of what I do… I think when there’s curiosity, and you’re doing something you don’t necessarily have the answers for, it naturally feels somewhat modern and results in something that people could identify as avant-garde.” Labels aside, Tait certainly hasn’t bowed to the mainstream since emerging as the youngest designer to graduate from Central St Martins’ womenswear MA in 2010. Yet, there is no conscious effort to exclude from this cerebral and down-to-earth designer. Calfskin A-line skirts, delicately portholed jeans and ribbed rollnecks offer accessible, retail-ready notes in a cosmic spring/summer2016 collection that is rounded out

“I’ve really questioned whether I’m doing a show because it’s something I really want to do, and if that was fulfilling my needs and my personal interests.” Thomas Tait

with origami leather tunics and a workman heavy, stiff-fronted jumpsuit. “It isn’t necessarily a conscious effort to be confusing or try and challenge people,” he says. “I definitely like to create a certain amount of disruption in how I do things and how things feel. I

money and put it all into the next fashion show or

like it when things are somewhat surprising, especially

put it all into a bag range – it was very much about

physically. I understand that not everybody will attach

helping the team internally and growing the company a

themselves so immediately to what I do, and I think

little bit. It felt very transparent and I wasn’t put under

there’s something nice about that. I’m kind of scared

pressure to be specific with the prize.” His insider

by the idea of creating a bit of a monster of a brand

status was cemented further late last year, with a

that is so commercially available and fuelled by being

win at the British Fashion Awards where, third time

generally interesting to the mass market, because

lucky, Tait picked up Emerging Womenswear Designer.

that’s a big mouth to feed.”

Likewise, his inclusion in the Swarovski Collective for

A challenge to satiate the monster maybe, but it’s not

s/s16 (alongside Emilia Wickstead, David Koma and

an insurmountable one for Tait, who is already firmly

Esteban Cortázar, among others), the crystals shining

on the radar of commercial giant LVMH. Winning the

in subverted constellations across patent leather skirts

conglomerate’s inaugural Young Fashion Designer

and sheer trousers, in a way that gelled with Tait’s

prize in 2014 meant a cash injection of $300,000 and

narrative when it might have jarred.

a year’s coaching from the group: A timely triumph

High-profile supporters or not, Tait forges his own

for the designer, who at that time employed just one

path, and the day before we speak he announces

person full-time and had never received sponsorship

his decision not to stage his a/w16 collection on

for a fashion week show. “I started my business with

the runway, but instead in the form of one-on-one

no capital at all really and not much of a clue as to

appointments during Paris Fashion Week. “It was the

how to go about doing it. So, there were a lot of

result of quite a lot of thinking, specifically in the last

growing pains,” he reflects. “There was a need for

three of four seasons,” he says. “I’ve really questioned

money in all areas of what I was doing, so I wasn’t

whether I’m doing a show because it’s something I

necessarily taking all of those eggs and putting them

really want to do, and if that was fulfilling my needs and

in one basket – like we’re going to take the LVMH

my personal interests.” In a world in which established

something that felt far more inclusive.” It’s certainly a model that makes sense for the thoughtful designer, who has a genuine desire to engage personally with press, buyers and consumers alike. “I feel like there are so many times I leave the fashion show and don’t necessarily think that I’ve given the collection the opportunity to be seen fully. I feel like half the time, I leave people scratching their heads a little bit. Very few people have the time to come backstage and look at the clothes and speak to me, and even then, I usually haven’t slept in a couple of days and I’m not in my best form. At times, I walk away from the show and feel to a certain extent that it is a missed opportunity.” A brave move to defy the industry’s traditional structures, but one that’s typical of Tait’s maverick spirit (we’re talking about a designer who scrapped and completely re-sketched the entire s/s16 collection post-Pitti). It’s part of the reason he belongs firmly in the band of emerging designers reinventing the system. Is it a risk? “I did worry about the show for a while when I was first starting to think about it, more because I felt like it would be something that was being taken away from me. But, I don’t see it in that way. What I’m preparing for Paris isn’t necessarily going to be easier… It’s just about redirecting my efforts and my energies into a new way of communicating the clothes.” As a flag bearer for aspiring designers seeking to emulate Tait’s tightrope walk between creative freedom and a viable business, his move is not without a wider message. “I can appreciate how the speed of the designers like Raf Simons and Alber Elbaz have taken

fashion show and the amount of collections that are

a (permanent) step back from the frenetic pace of

being expected are unsustainable for independent

producing more than six collections a year, Tom Ford

businesses with limited finance,” Tait notes. “I think

has presented his s/s16 collection in the form of a

there’s a huge amount of cheerleading that happens

music video, and labels such as Thakoon and Rebecca

in the industry, where we take young people and

Minkoff are restructuring around a ‘show now, buy

celebrate them and advertise them in the media and

now’ model, Tait’s move marks a growing shift away

write a lot of articles about them, but very few people

from the spectacle of a seasonal runway show and

are asking questions about the business and how it

towards something more personal. “I think I had a

actually works and how they might struggle. I would

big light bulb moment when I did the Pitti Immagine

hope that if anything comes out of this, it would be

Uomo exhibition in June. The way we presented the

to encourage young designers to be a little bit more

selection of pieces was structured so that people

transparent about their hardships and what they want

felt comfortable interacting with the pieces and

to achieve.” Pioneer, perfectionist and thinker, Thomas

openly discussing their reactions. It really did create

Tait is no longer just one to watch: He’s one to follow.

v i r t ua l v i s i o n On a quest of discovery, Nicolas GhesquiĂ¨re takes the Louis Vuitton woman on an intergalactic collision course, where fragments of her evolving identity form her heroic journey. All re-envisioned through the lens of photographer Juergen Teller.

By Sophie Pasztor Photographed by Juergen Teller

Embedded deep into her DNA is a recognisable monogram, offering a sense of familiarity to new concepts. She evolves, keeping with her the fundamentals of her identity whilst harnessing the freedom to explore uncharted territories.

70 Teller manages to translate Ghesquière’s vision and develops it even further, compelling it into a new realm of fantasy. The collection is reflective of his inventiveness and has been given an added sense of realism.

The robotic notion of her psyche depicts the impactful presence of technology in her domain. Adopting clothing like armour, she takes on the outside world in a thoughtfully provoked resilience.

The digital age is upon us, where the emphasis on technology has consumed our daily life, from the way we connect with the world to the screen we use to view it. Tapping into this reality, Nicolas Ghesquière interprets his paradox for the future and reboots the heritage house, sending it into a parallel universe. The designer enlists cyberpunk beauties to crusade into a “heroic fantasy” and embark on an intergalactic battle of mediums. His latest collection revealed a juxtaposition of urban style and futuristic elements to create a new fashion ideal – where androgyny stimulates gender-neutral designs and a non-conformist attitude is voiced. This recent chapter in the label’s fashion index ignites the identity of the Louis Vuitton women. She is strong-willed and determined, possessing sartorial power that reaches new heights, allowing her to explore a universe of multiple atmospheres. Hands bound in thick leather straps in preparation of an invasion of biospheres, Ghesquière dreamt up a virtual experience inspired by a futuristic film from the past – where we saw videogame heroines step out of a cyber sphere and into our streets. Journeying through aesthetic ranks, the evolution on the label’s classic style is positively modified by a refreshing take on cybernetic euphoria. Delving further into

The recurring motif of chain links remains a dominant force in her wardrobe. Stamped diagonally across bags, the archived pattern provides a symbol of strength and authority.

Experimental by nature, the Louis Vuitton woman possesses the ability to shift between contrasting aspects of her personality. She pays homage to her feminine side by donning billowing silhouettes and dancing between soft romantic fabrics.

this domain, photographer Juergen Teller translates GhesquiĂ¨reâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s vision and creates his very own interpretation of the collection. Capitalising on fundamentals that form the Louis Vuitton woman, and using his lens as a way of expressing her essence. His eye captures a nomadic ambience and he positions the models as simulated characters designed to tell a story. From there, we see their makeup, dressed in durable leather jackets with sleeves donning opposing patterns of red and white and a familiar monogram. Robust combat boots make an appearance with utilitarian jumpsuits and colour-saturated silks. Although a strong masculine presence can be felt, softening streaks of femininity are also imagined through delicate sheer blouses and the introduction of Edwardian collars. The craftsmanship of the collection bared the same level of focus as its visionary tale â&#x20AC;&#x201C; where fine-tuned details provided depth and complexity to its fantastical ideas. Beautiful chiffon dresses are hand-painted with a mesmerising shimmer and embellishments are on full display. Striking crystals and intricate beading are manipulated onto flared skirts and waistcoats. Appearing in a mist of construction, a new drawstring bag surfaced. Chains and exotic skins lined the accessories with what appeared to be the motif for the season.

Photographed by Sarvenaz Hashtroudi

fu tu

Wa ve

Fr om re a of rty fro fas hee m hio ls th n h to e s a bo gal s n pac un axi o l ece es im ag of ab its. e s f d ov Ta un g ec e, k on let ing lass i st e ru me nsp s, t ct ta i ed llic rati he sh hu on ap es es .

72 S t yl e note

Left to right: NATHALIE TRAD at Harvey Nichols Dubai | CHANEL | UNITED NUDE at Level Shoe District | HOUSE OF HOLLAND at Symphony

A Cosmic Love Photographed by Anthony Arquier Styled by Alba Melinda

Coat, LOUIS VUITTON

Coat, DIOR | Necktie, MIU MIU

Top, LANVIN | Skirt, EMANUEL UNGARO | Shoes, LOUIS VUITTON | Socks, WOLFORD

Coat and earrings, PRADA | Shoes, DIOR | Socks, WOLFORD

Coat, shirt and trousers, BOTTEGA VENETA | Shoes, PIERRE HARDY

Jacket and skirt, GIVENCHY | Shoes, PRADA

Coat, MIU MIU | One-piece, JEAN PAUL GAULTIER | Bag, PRADA

Coat, LANVIN | Dress and shoes, CHANEL

Coat, MIU MIU | Dress, LANVIN | Trousers, COMME DES GARÃ&#x2021;ONS | Shoes, BOTTEGA VENETTA

Tunic and top, GIAMBATTISTA VALLI | Trousers, ELIE SAAB | Shoes, DIOR | Ring, LANVIN

Model: Anna Emilia at Brand Models Make-up artist: Cyril Laine Hair stylist: Rimi Ura Photographerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s assistant: Fabio Anastacio Stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s assistant: Maki Kimura Production: Louis Agency

Jumper, trousers and shoes, CHLOĂ&#x2030;

Uninhibited

AGE Photographed by Greg Adamski Styled by Olivia Cantillon

Top, BALENCIAGA | Trousers, ELIZABETH AND JAMES at Bloomingdales Dubai | Necklace and bracelet, CHRISTIAN DIOR | Shoes, STUART WEITZMAN

Jumper, DKNY at Bloomingdales | Dress, SAINT LAURENT

Top and skirt, ROKSANDA at Symphony | Shoes, MARNI

Jumper and dress, CHRISTIAN DIOR

Top, CÃ&#x2030;LINE | Skirt, PRADA

Top and skirt, LOUIS VUITTON

Cape, BALENCIAGA | Jumper, THE ROW @matchesfashion.com | Shorts, ROLAND MOURET | Shoes, STUART WEITZMAN | Bracelet, KMO PARIS @shopboomandmellow.com

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Top, jeans and shoes, CHANEL

Coat, TORY BURCH at Bloomingdales Dubai | Jumper, TIBI at Bloomingdales Dubai

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Coat, SACAI at S*uce

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Jumper, STELLA MCCARTNEY | Skirt, THEORY at Bloomingdales Dubai | Shoes, CHRISTIAN DIOR

Model: Anna Yve at Wilhelmina Models Dubai Hair and makeup artist: Annesofie Begtrup Location: Blue Marlin Ibiza UAE

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A cc es s o ry affair s

FATEMA FARDAN

2 4 1 5

NEW FLAME Get swept up in the unassuming power of new jewels. Dainty diamonds and softly encrusted rings exude a novel sense of romance, while handcrafted watches and bangles in blush pink provide a refreshing change. 1. BUCCELLATI | 2. MESSIKA | 3.VACHERON CONSTANTIN | 4.CHAUMET | 5. ALLYSON BRYAN | 6. YEPREM

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THE KAYYS

3 1

MODERN MUSE The passions of various artists collide to create a vast melange of mesmerising architectural pieces for the season. Watch straps give off an effervescent glow in matte moonstone, while artdeco shapes appear in the form of pleated earrings and rings, accentuated by brilliant stones. 1. SUZANNE KALAN at S*uce Rocks | 2. DE GRISOGONO | 3. CARRERA Y CARRERA | 4. ALEXANDRE REZA | 5. CARTIER | 6. CHRISTIAN DIOR

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First Look

Sign of the Times Making its exclusive debut in MOJEH, the resolutely contemporary spirit of the Signature de Chanel collection expresses all the values of modernity and intricacy that have distinguished the luxury brand’s high jewellery since the beginning. In all its simplicity, each piece is designed with the house’s iconic matelassé pattern that brings back a sense of nostalgic delight.

Photographed by NICOLAS MENU Styled by JAMES V. THOMAS

Immaculate diamonds set in 18-carat white gold in an exquisite drop arrangement are beautifully cut to perfection and timelessly designed for the modern woman of distinguished style. Featuring a beautiful quilted pattern, the drop earrings and necklace set are designed to catch the light at every angle and sparkle like the stars. Signature Surpiquee pendant earrings, CHANEL Fine Jewellery | Le Vernis 681 Fortissimo, CHANEL Beauty

Elegant and understated, skillfully designed in pavĂŠ diamonds, the short drop earrings and bracelet make for a perfect finishing touch to any outfit. These wearable works of art take inspiration from the labelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s iconic motifs and are reinvented in a more refined design. Signature Ultime earrings, CHANEL Fine Jewellery | Signature White Tie bracelet, CHANEL Fine Jewellery

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M o j eh i nter v i e w

Cafe des Objets Oubliés or ‘Forgotten Objects’ – a very French-style café.

Walking Through

Wanderland From the City of Light to the Big Smoke, ‘Wanderland’, the latest exhibition from Hermès, arrives in Dubai. By Susan Devaney

As I pull back floor-sweeping strands

tale. The umbrella appears once more,

of black fabric, a silver-panelled disco

propped up against a wooden bench

ball twirls, setting the room a-glitter

and standing in a puddle. As you look

as it moves from wall to wall. T iny

closer, birds swoop across the sky and

squares of light bounce, then swivel

clouds glide across from one edge to

and dance before me. Flashing in an

the other. It’s a visual delight, and a

almost rhythmic motion, scenes from

small sort of escapism into an alternative

old French films play out. My mind no

universe. The thought of taking off is

longer feels like my own, as I’m taken

carried as I reach a perfectly positioned

to the cobbled streets of the City of

letterbox. Inside, envelope clutches in

Light and I hear Parisians loudly chatter

goatskin – from bright blue and orange

in black-and-white, their voices fading

to yellow – are visible. Behind them,

to a mere whisper before they’re gone.

loveable notes in French can be seen,

Welcome to Wanderland.

written using a Nautilus fountain pen.

“As the flâneur, you don’t know what

This mixture of contemporary through

you’re going to discover at every step

the use of digital means and trips back

and you’re constantly surprised,”

in time are constant throughout. “This

explains

the

mixture was very important, because as

exhibition’s curator. I enter a room full

a luxury house, there’s a huge respect

of walking sticks. Is this the accessory

for tradition. It was very important for

of the flâneur? They’re illustrated in

us to focus on this, but also to illustrate

black across pure white walls. They’re

a fusion of history with digital, and the

encased around glass, sunken into the

way in which they can work in harmony,”

room’s structure. And they’re captured

explains Gaudichon.

Bruno

Gaudichon,

in videos, on repeat – like a graphic window bringing the sticks to life as a man dances with his. But, who exactly is the flâneur? “The entire exhibition has very much been influenced by Émile Hermès. He travelled a lot and visited a lot of antique houses, and the objects you see inside were purchases made through his passion and love. This is why we’ve incorporated the walking stick.” But he collected many things. And so, the exhibition selected from 30,000 artefacts to convey the life of the flâneur. As I look up, a delicately feathered umbrella is peeking out from the ceiling. It’s thought that Émile Hermès purchased his first umbrella at the age of 12. Maybe this acted as a catalyst to his loving obsession with collecting, as he travelled. Photographed by James Bort

Hermès creations captured in bottles.

The first step away from the room of walking sticks and I’m met with a playoff: Competing ladies’ and gentlemen’s salons. For the women, multiple Hermès bags are encased in frames and encircle a grey horse’s head. As the light goes out, it immediately switches to the other side, forcing the observer to look the other way. From tennis rackets to smart helmets, it conveys the brand’s vast history of design. “The whole exhibition is a series of links. The stories throughout are like an urban adventure,” explains Gaudichon. And it’s true, as you move from one room to the next; you morph into a character in your own collectable

Fun, animated window displays.

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From artefacts to videography, the entire exhibition fuses historical with digital.

â&#x20AC;&#x153;I think this exhibition in Dubai is probably the most successful out of all of them so far. I think this structure outside Dubai Mall really allows the outside to be brought inside perfectly together.â&#x20AC;? Bruno Gaudichon

For a moment, you think it would be

Working with set designer Hubert Le

reasonable to sit and sip on an espresso

Gall, it would appear that the future

outside the Cafe des Objets Oubliés or

really is digital. Even as I look through

‘Forgotten Objects’ – a very French-style

a window, I’m met with a very historic

café. Where a small French bulldog greets

setting of Victorian-style dressing, a

you and Parisian music floats out from

China tea set and a setback in time

nowhere. At the bar, a line of glass objects

– but the candelabra consisting of

have all captured bracelets and other

champagne glasses suddenly begins

novelties. But, the pièce de résistance has

to shine, the mini Eiffel Tower swings

to be the unexpected movements on the

out from underneath a mirror and an

tables. From a revolving eye inside a metal

Hermès cloak spins of its own accord.

ashtray and lit cigarettes moving along as

I’m in awe. This fusion of history-meets-

though on a conveyor-belt around a small

contemporary is a wonderful fusion. “I

spyglass to a paint-box with digital squares

think this exhibition in Dubai is probably

mimicking moving water – the element of

the most successful out of all of them

surprise is everywhere. Emblazoned across

so far. I think this structure outside

a mirror are the words, ‘In the golden glow

Dubai Mall really allows the outside to

of burning acetylene lamps, the remains of

be brought inside perfectly together,”

a hundred happy interludes linger on the

says Gaudichon. Exhibiting from January

cool of the mosaic and in the crystalline

21st to February 6th, it’s certain to be a

cages of bottles. Thus, remiss, “Stroll on!”

visionary success. “I’m very happy with

they say.’ And stroll we do.

it! It’s a very intriguing location, and the

“The whole exhibition is a series of links.

fact that it’s a floating structure on water

The stories throughout are like an urban

is magical,” he finishes.

adventure,” explains Gaudichon. This explains the psychedelic nature and plucked obscurity of ‘Alice in Wonderland’ that’s felt throughout. “As a wanderer, you’re always looking for new things, you’re always on the look-out, and you’re taken aback by what you might discover along the way. I think that’s almost what someone in luxury is looking for, in terms of wanting to live luxuriously. It’s this constant feed of new things. Hermès really is the archetype of luxury.” It’s also a celebration of the quirkiness of the Hermès family history. The urban areas feature a local artist from the country it’s exhibiting in. In Dubai, artist Khalid Mezaina illustrates a scene from a topsy-turvy Parisianstyle world. “Mezaina is Dubai’s artist – he’s very underground. His presence in the exhibition is very important,” says

The walking stick is the accessory of the flâneur.

Gaudichon. “Street art is something that is developing every day, it was important that at every step we focused on flânerie, but the street artist room is vital in bringing the observer back to where they are. All the street artists we’ve used in each city are completely different from one another. I think this brings a lot of positivity to the individual cities. In a way, it brings all of the countries together.” As also are all of the other artists’ works f e a t u re d – f ro m E m m a n u e l P i e r re , Ugo Gattoni, Romain Laurent, Nicolas Tourte, Peter Keene to Piet S – the mix of digital, history, space, time and travel is captured in many visions.

A Parisian style dining room.

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M o j eh H ealth

The Anxiety of Influence We may be smiling on the outside, but on the inside, we’re paralysed with fear. Why are today’s young women battling with high anxiety like never before?

reason with the pounding pain in their stomach or chest. “I have noticed a rise in young women suffering from anxiety, especially between the ages of 20 and 30. It is such a shame, because they are literally losing the most important years of their lives that will never come back to them – years where they should be fearless and enjoying their youth. Although men have also come to me suffering from anxiety, it is much more prevalent in women,” says wellbeing expert Vivienne Talsmat. Young female celebrities like Lena Dunham, Amanda Seyfried and Demi Lovato have all publicly spoken about their feelings of anxiety. One of the most successful beauty bloggers of today, Zoella, tries to conquer anxiety on a daily basis. “If you’re

By Susan Devaney

struggling with stress and anxiety, it’s so important to talk to someone. Whether that’s your family, friends, or your doctor, it’s really important that you don’t suffer in

Dream job? Check. Nice apartment? Check. Great city?

silence. Talking to people means you can start getting

Check. Lifelong friends? Check. Lurching awake in a cold

help if you need it, so that you don’t have to deal with it

sweat at 4 am every morning? Check.

alone,” she told MOJEH in April last year. For many young

As a child, I had to be good at everything. Not only

and aspiring women, she has the perfect life: Dream job,

did I have to be good, I had to be the best. I had to be

dreamy boyfriend and dream-like pay package. But she

perfect. This innate desire to be glossy perfect resulted in

worries that she won’t be good enough for her loving

panic attacks and a serious case of anxiety. I constantly

fans. “The more celebs speak out about mental health, it

thought: If they can do it, why can’t I? I fought (hard) for

becomes less of a stigma, just based on that amount of

girls to be allowed to wear trousers to school (yes, that’s

exposure and the empathy that creates,” says Vivienne.

right, I was restricted to skirts only), just like the boys.

Early in 2015, Lena Dunham posted a photo of herself

And, I campaigned for us to be given the chance to run

working out in the gym to her Instagram account (and

side-by-side chasing a football on the pitch, just like the

over 2 million followers), saying: “Promised myself I

boys. And, I never failed to shy away from voicing my

would not let exercise be the first thing to go by the

disdain at boys and girls being deliberately separated

wayside when I got busy with Girls Season 5 and here

in team sports, play areas and school activities. These

is why: It has helped with my anxiety in ways I never

grateful moments were experienced until my brand new

dreamed possible. To those struggling with anxiety, OCD,

school trousers shrunk in the wash and I was gracefully

depression: I know it’s mad annoying when people tell

carted off the pitch and straight to the hospital with a

you to exercise, and it took me about 16 medicated years

severely swollen foot. But still, I felt the importance of

to listen. I’m glad I did. It ain’t about the ass, it’s about

competing with the boys. Like then, I still want to be

the brain.” And it’s also about social media.

treated on equal terms with them.

Social media has positioned itself within our lives like

I’m not alone in suffering from this framework of angst.

a newborn baby. At first, we were enthralled by its

I’ve lost count of the number of 20-something friends,

capabilities. We’ve all taken selfies at historical landmarks

who have also recounted sleepless nights or trying to

or indulged ourselves with snaps of I’m-at-a-party-and-

having-great-fun moments. But, the hard work has set

smiling, successful mum with the perfect body puts a lot

in. We now openly suffer from FOMO (Fear Of Missing

of pressure on young women. Even though it is totally

Out) and watch others sail by with ease (or so it seems)

unrealistic, the anxiety is real. Moreover, many people are

as they gain a promotion at work, or buy their first house.

constantly alert (mentally and physically), waiting for the

“Anxiety is one of the most common psychiatric disorders

next message or social media post. Many people can only

and approximately twice as common in women as it

stand seconds without checking their phones, because

is in men. In our clinic in Dubai, we see lots of young

they fear to miss something.” Yes, Lena has used it as

woman suffering from anxiety,” explains Diana Nahas, a

a social tool to bring about awareness, but the nature of

counselor at the German Neuroscience Center in Dubai.

the beast lays bare other people’s successes and life’s

“The peer pressure gets even worse if we compare

‘ticking boxes’ moments. We can’t escape them, even

ourselves not only to the people around us, but to the

if we try. “I do see increasing amounts of young people,

entire world. This happens when it comes to social media.

who are anxious,” says Suky Macpherson, a chartered

Even if we know that it is impossible to keep up with

psychologist specialising in young people. “The standards

the fake-positive self-portrayal on social media, many

and expectations about life in general seem to be very

young people are vulnerable in this sense. The always-

high nowadays. There seems to be more perfectionism

118

around, which creates feelings of living up to unrealistic

the enemy,” explains Macpherson. “Today, the enemy is

standards. Social media perpetuates the feelings of not

largely not a vicious predator, but a fearful thought will

being good enough as you view someone’s ‘perfect’ life

generate the same feelings as a potential duel, creating

on Instagram or Facebook. This generates the FOMO

rapid heartbeat, an urge to run and shaking. Anxiety is a

– ‘are other people having a wonderful time with their

natural phenomenon, which helps us to deal effectively

2,000 friends whilst I’m sitting in with Netflix?’”

with danger – it’s just that we perceive more danger

Where has this cultural epidemic come from? They say

nowadays.” With an increase in terrorist attacks and our

anxiety feeds anxiety. From gaining university degrees

rush (or lack of) to stop climate change, we do have a lot

to taking a gap year and travelling the world with a

on our worldly minds. “Some people fear that the world

tightly stuffed backpack, we don’t appear to have much

is not a safe place. This is not necessarily a realistic fear,

to be truly anxious about. Haven’t we been given an

but they have a belief that they should be able to control

abundance of opportunities our parents didn’t see?

their environments and their lives. The idea that random

“Humans have always experienced the ‘fight or flight’

acts of terrorism or global warming are out of their control

response, which is when adrenaline is released by the

and might happen can be terrifying for some people,”

body to enable us to run away or engage in battle with

explains Macpherson. In Dubai, we have a feeling of

‘keeping up with the Joneses’. “There might be a few reasons that are specific for young women living here: The younger generations have comparably a wider variety of choices of what they want to be in life, which career path they want to take, in which country in the world they want to live, if they want to have children, which car to drive, which clothes to wear, which friends to choose and so on. The multicultural society in the Middle East makes the variety even wider and the choice even more difficult,” explains Nahas. “Peer pressure due to the

A fear of being misjudged, misunderstood or disliked – but most of all, a fear of failing on reaching perfection – is a ruling force.

‘Dubai Lifestyle’. Some people are very much influenced by what other people do or seem to do. If everyone buys a new car, eats at the most fancy restaurants or has other expensive hobbies, there’s pressure to do the

seem quite self-righteous and what we may consider

same – just to keep up.”

our own perfection is not another’s – the pressure we

As we experience – and partake – in a new wave of

place on ourselves to have someone else’s definition

feminism, women are still fighting to be seen as equal to

of a perfect life and the anxiety that comes with that is

men, and we want to prove we can do it all. We can have

not necessary,” she says. “The desired choice (family or

a successful career and be a good friend, a great partner

career or both) is definitively a challenging situation. While

and a ‘Susie Homemaker’, too. In the 21st century, we

some know pretty well what they want, others feel a lot

feel the pressure to be all that and more. “All this creates

of pressure and anxiety to make the right choice. If the

anxiety in a generation that was taught to believe that if

decision is led by external expectations, things can get

they worked hard and got the grades, they could have

even worse,” says Nahas. But aren’t we trying to prove

the future they dreamed about,” says Macpherson. As

that we don’t have to make a choice between the two:

women still fight for equality, are we suffering as we try

Successful career or great stay-at-home mother? We

to ‘have it all’? I ask Vivienne. “Have you noticed that

can have both, and eat it, too.

it’s normal to say ‘I’m suffering from anxiety’, not ‘I have

As anxiety increases in young women, so does a solution

anxiety’?” she retorts. “As more and more young women

to it. Could Lena be right in thinking that exercise is the

and women in general are “suffering” from anxiety. Are

key to depleting anxiety? “Meditation is the essential

we not then already suffering?” From generalised anxiety

taking back control of that crazy non-stop voice in your

disorder (GAD) to social anxiety, paranoia, panic attacks

head, the one you’ve been listening to, that’s caused the

and obsessive compulsive disorder (OCD), the list goes

anxiety. And, exercise to purge out the adrenal chemicals

on. “To prove themselves, so many women either fight

of stress like cortisol and adrenaline – the way we care

to be both man and woman, or force themselves to be

for ourselves and the way we approach our lives. We

all of one and subsequently feel compromised. Having

need to look at all the things we have achieved in life

it all is such an overly-used and subjective term. Is it

and list them with gratitude every night before we sleep.

the rich successful businesswoman with the powerful

Then, we sleep focused on the good we have done

husband, privately-schooled three children and nanny

and give back in life,” explains Vivienne. A fear of being

that has it all, or is it the woman who devotes her day job

misjudged, misunderstood or disliked – but most of all,

to raising children at home and providing for her family in

a fear of failing on reaching perfection – is a ruling force.

other ways that has it all? Sometimes, having it all can

Let’s face the real fact: We are good enough.

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m o j eh h ealth

Sweet Serenity

Photographed by Sarvenaz Hashtroudi

Hide away from any stress of the day and seek solitude in potions carefully devised to promote calm and serenity. From softly scented candles to Moroccan rose bath oils, help is at hand.

Left to right: CLARINS, Relax Body Treatment Oil | DIPTYQUE, Bougie Parfumée Scented Candle at Harvey Nichols Dubai | LANCÔME, Absolue L’Extrait Ultimate Essence | PENHALIGON’S LONDON, Lavandula Eau De Parfume | REN, Moroccan Rose Otto Bath Oil at Harvey Nichols Dubai

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Embracing the frizz factor at Blu Girl

B e au ty I ns ig h t

High Volume

Say goodbye to sleek and slinky straight tresses as we join the fashion movement that allows our natural curls to shine. With natural hair textures of all types dominating runways, beauty editorials and street style in 2015 and beyond, it was only a matter of time before our hair regimens switched from keeping our curls under control to setting them free. Model of the moment Lineisy Montero proved a breath of fresh air on the Prada runway recently, with her cropped natural locks; Diane Von Furstenberg’s muses walked with side-swept mega-volume; and, Maria Borges was all smiles for Victoria’s Secret in her third outing for the lingerie brand – crucially, her first without straight extensions. “I told my agent I wanted to walk with my natural hair,” Borges said. “I was nervous, but I had to do it. When they said ‘yes’, I didn’t expect it, but I was so happy!” Meanwhile, Imaan Hammam made a case for curl power at the Tommy Hilfiger spring/summer show, her beautiful mane bouncing along in homage to the Bob Marley-inspired spectacle. Dickey, New York texture guru to the stars, whose clients include Solange Knowles and Sarah Jessica Parker. “It’s so much easier to rely on methods that are more suited to your own texture and not someone else’s. Loving your texture, the way it grows out of your head, ensures that when you do decide to wear it differently, you’re doing so because you can, not because you dislike your natural texture. It then becomes your choice, your hair, your rules.”

Words by Natalie Trevis

“Your natural hair texture is a perfect match for you, much like your skin colour,” says Anthony

Model Imaan Hammam is known for her signature curls

It’s a philosophy we can certainly get behind, as we put the straightening irons into retirement and follow Dickey’s essential advice for maintaining a head of luscious curls: 1. Avoid shampoos that have suds. They were never formulated for naturally dry textures that tangle. Instead, look for gentle cleansers that are closer to looking and feeling like conditioners, that clean without stripping. 2. Naturally kinky and curly hair textures are dryer and love to be wet and reconditioned as often as possible. 3. If you have a kinky texture and do wash and go styling, avoid letting more than two to three days go by before repeating, so as to avoid drying out strands and causing breakage. 4. Commit to a hair cut every three months if the goal is to grow your hair longer, quicker. Remember: Everyone’s hair grows at the same rate, regardless of ethnicity and hair texture (on average, 1/2 an inch a month). The objective is to trim less than a quarter of an inch, which means the rate of growth outweighs how much hair is being trimmed.

From left to right: BAMBOO STYLE Super-Natural Curl Shaping and Defining Cream | LIVING PROOF Curl Enhancing Styling Mousse | KÉRASTASE RESISTANCE Masque Thérapiste | MACADAMIA PROFESSIONAL Activating Curl Cream | HAIRSTORY New Wash | SERGE NORMANT Meta Velour Conditioner

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B e au ty n ote

Defined by Scent A womanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s character is established by her disposition, temperament and by the fragrance she chooses. From the modern-day muse to the risk-taker, manifest your mood with icons of scent.

A scent with an air of scandal and a hint of subversion, Poison Girl by Dior is provocative and fearless. Both vivid and immediately identifiable, introductory notes of bitter orange blend in harmony with a rich heart of rose. DIOR, Poison Girl

Built around intense femininity and botanical beauty, Promenade in the Gardens by Maison Martin Margiela leads to the heart of an English garden. Youthful, floral and carefree, the vision of nature is carried with Turkish rose, patchouli and sandalwood. MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA, Promenade in the Garden

Suitable for the risk-taking woman, Armand Basiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Wild Forest fragrance offers an earthy, natural aroma. Masculine with authenticity, it bottles precious ingredients of wood and nutmeg, along with smoky shades of leather and dark incense, creating a powerful aroma. ARMAND BASI, Wild Forest

126

Decadence by Marc Jacobs offers a sensual, luxurious spirit of seductive glamour. Bottled with emerald green leather and an opulent gold chain, top notes of Italian plum and saffron meet base notes of Bulgarian rose and liquid amber. MARC JACOBS, Decadence

Redefining the perception of the modern muse, Miu Miu’s first fragrance encompasses the supreme elegance of the brand and evolves with provocative beauty. Fresh, contemporary and dynamic, the unexpected combination of lily of the valley and akigalawood is a playful expression of the spirit of Miu Miu. MIU MIU, Eau de Parfum

A representation of the iconic woman herself, Tory Burch’s first fragrance is empowering, graceful and grounded. Sophisticated top notes of grapefruit and mandarin are anchored by the designer’s personal history and melded with her father’s signature scent, vetiver. TORY BURCH, Eau de Parfum

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Face throughout: LANCÔME, Miracle Cushion 250 Bisque | CHRISTIAN DIOR, Diorskin Nude Air Loose Powder | GIVENCHY, Le Prisme Blush | NARS, Illuminator | CHANEL, Crayon Sourcils Sculpting Eyebrow Pencil, 40 Brun Cendré | LAURA MERCIER, Extra Lash Sculpting Mascara Black Onyx | REDKIN, Mess Around 10 Disrupting Cream-Paste ESTéE LAUDER, Pure Colour Envy Blooming Lip Balm | GIORGIO ARMANI, Eyes To Kill Waterproof Eyeliner Pencil | NARS, Night Series Eyeshadow - Night Clubbing | GUCCI, Bold High-Gloss Lacquer Iconic Red | MAC, Eye Kohl Liner Fascinating | GUERLAIN, Eyeliner Noir Ebène Top, FALKE | Necklace, CÉLINE

Dare To

Blush Photographed by NICOLAS MENU Styled by JAMES V. THOMAS

ESTéE LAUDER Pure Colour Long Lasting Lipstick | CHANEL, Stylo Yeux Waterproof Long-Lasting Eyeliner 88 Noir Intense | MAC, Eye Kohl Liner Fascinating Earrings, CÉLINE

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CLINIQUE, Pop Lip Colour + Primer - Wow Pop | ESTéE, Pure Colour Nail Lacquer | GUERLAIN, Eyeliner Noir Ebène Earrings, CÉLINE

GUCCI, Vibrant Demi-Glaze Lip Lacquer – Carnelian I MAC, Pigment Fuchsia | GUERLAIN, Eyeliner Noir Ebène

136

Model: Jenna Earle at Next Models Makeup artist: Ai Cho Hair stylist: Nori Takabayashi Retoucher: Pascal Hirsch at ELVIS Paris Photographer’s assistant: Joan Dastarac Stylist’s assistant: Emil Kosuge Set design and local production: ELVIS Paris Production: Louis Agency

Image courtesy of Getty, Photographed by Monica Schipper, September 30, 2015

138 M OJEH W o man

The

Next Chapter

Cindy Crawford widely defies the typical notions attributed to women in the modeling industry. As a muse, she’s versatile; as a role model, she’s inspirational; and, as a woman empowering those around her, she’s unstoppable.

Cindy Crawford never bought into the hype that

that have informed my thinking and sharing some of

came with being one of the original “supermodels”,

the wisdom and life lessons I’ve learned along the

who dominated the fashion world in the Eighties and

way,” Crawford says. “It’s not an autobiography or

Nineties. She never overindulged in the partying and

tell-all – I wouldn’t have many dark secrets to reveal,

frenetic lifestyle of that era or tried to grab headlines

anyway. It’s really about my personal journey and

with bad behaviour. Growing up in a Midwestern

becoming my adult self.”

farming town 30 miles from Chicago, she arrived

Crawford, who turns 50 in February, offers plenty of

in New York as an aspiring teenage model armed

insights and anecdotes in the magnificent volume

with her looks, ambition, and good business sense.

published by Rizzoli, including several of the iconic

Crawford was the first top model to turn herself

photos that were part of her trademark natural

into the kind of brand that is now the ultimate goal

beauty. She not only discusses her work with some

of every aspiring supermodel. She was also the

of the fashion industry’s legendary photographers

definition of the healthy, bodacious, all-American

– Herb Ritts, Richard Avedon, Irving Penn, Steven

girl, who could pose nude for Playboy and still retain

Meisel, Helmut Newton, et al – but also the era

that good girl image.

of the supermodel and how she became a highly

Apart from her marriage to Richard Gere (the couple

successful businesswoman with multiple pursuits,

later divorced), she kept her love life out of the

including fitness videos, swimsuit calendars, and

press, and for the past 17 years, she’s enjoyed

beauty lines.

a happy home life with hotel and restaurant

In person, Crawford is still fabulously beautiful – she

entrepreneur husband Rande Gerber and their two

remains a size 2 – and looks at least 10 years younger.

children. Along the way, she learned important life

She and her husband Rande are best friends with

lessons that she is now sharing in her new book –

George Clooney and his wife Amal, and have taken

‘Becoming’ – which serves as a highly spirited life

several vacations together. Interestingly, when asked

manual that is part autobiography, part coffee table

about her marriage to Gerber, Cindy confessed

book. It offers an inside account of the events that

that she thought he was almost too good to be

marked her rise as a global cultural icon fabled for

real at the beginning. “In my younger years, I was

her cosmetics and clothing campaigns, as well as

attracted to the more intense kind of relationships

countless magazine covers and photo spreads,

that are very draining. When I was first with Rande,

not to mention her Pepsi ads. She hosted MTV’s

I thought he was so solid. But then I wondered,

House of Style, built a personal business empire,

‘Wait, where’s all the drama? Maybe this isn’t good.

and devoted herself to raising her son Presley,

Maybe this isn’t real!’... But a husband is the guy

16, and daughter Kaia, 14, both aspiring models.

who is solid, and you know you want to have children

“This book is my way of reflecting on the experiences

with him and you know he’s going to be there.”

140

“It was only thanks to some great photographers like Herb Ritts and others who took so many iconic photos and presented me in a very extraordinary way. That’s when I started to feel beautiful.” Cindy Crawford

gave me my distinctive look as a model. It’s what people still associate with me the most. But when it came to getting that recognition as a model, it was only thanks to some great photographers like Herb Ritts and others who took so many iconic photos and presented me in a very extraordinary way. That’s when I started to feel beautiful. How do you account for your spectacular evolution as one of the original group of supermodels? I was lucky to arrive at a time when the fashion world was looking for a new image of women and a different look from the typical image of blonde and blue-eyed models. Christy (Turlington), Naomi (Campbell), Linda (Evangelista) and I all looked very different and we each had a distinctive look that represented different ways of defining or Cindy Crawford with her family, Kaia Gerber, Rande Gerber and Presley Gerber

representing beauty. What was your look, if you had to define it? My look was more accessible and relatable. In terms of labels, I was what you would call the sexy, all-American girl, who lived next door. I had

Cindy, your image is that of one of the

a more athletic body type, which gave me an edge

world’s most iconically beautiful women.

as photographers and magazines were looking

How did you see yourself when you were

for that. It was perfect timing. I also knew that

starting out as a model?

I needed to take advantage of my visibility and I

The truth is that I have never seen myself as

worked on some very good (ad) campaigns that

beautiful. At the beginning of my career I felt very

just took everything to the next level.

out of their way to say nice things to me. I had such

You took a chance moving to New York while

a bad self-image that it took over a decade to really

you were still studying in university. Tell us

feel good about myself and self-confident enough

about that time.

to the point where I could smile on command in

It was tough. Sometimes, you’re sitting in a

front of the camera. Still, when I look into the

college class and your professors don’t take you

mirror I see a face full of imperfections – I never

seriously. They don’t think you’re smart enough

see myself as having perfect features, not at all.

to be taking chemistry or other science classes, because they’re making snap judgements about

Have you always been comfortable with

your intelligence based on your appearance. Our

your looks?

culture still judges people on appearances and

I was very self-conscious about my mole while

women are especially subject to that. Even my

I was growing up. As a girl, I wanted to remove

own daughter Kaia is worrying about her looks

it, because I was embarrassed by it and I was

and her eyebrows and other things. It’s hard for

constantly getting teased about it. Of course,

girls. When I left college to pursue modelling, I

that was the thing that set me apart and later

saw right away that people assumed I was stupid

Image courtesy of Getty, Photographed by Todd Williamson, November 15, 2015.

uncomfortable and no one in the business went

Image courtesy of Getty, Photographed by JB Lacroix, November 04, 2015.

Cindy Crawford with daughter Kaia Gerber who has followed her motherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s footsteps in to the modeling industry

Image courtesy of Getty, Photographed by John Lamparski, September 30, 2015.

142

“You never know which moment or event is going to help you succeed, but if you work hard and have faith in yourself, chances are that good things are going to happen to you.” Cindy Crawford

and that was always a hard thing to handle. It makes you very self-conscious, but eventually, I was able to overcome that and put those negative assumptions and attitudes into better perspective – it was really saying more about the people making those judgements than it was about me. Did you experience a culture shock when you moved? I was very naive at the beginning. Coming from the Midwest, New York was a whole other world. I had to get used to living at a much faster pace, where people are always busy and rushing somewhere and you can feel like you’re an outsider. It was much more sophisticated than I was prepared for and it took me a long time before I really felt comfortable being in the company of famous or very accomplished people. Why did you write Becoming and what do you

Cindy with her husband Rande Gerber and friends Amal Clooney, George Clooney and Mario Testino

hope people will learn? I wanted to collect some life stories from my past and explore some key moments that might be

Image courtesy of Getty, Photographed by David M. Benett, August 23, 2015.

helpful to the next generation and help inspire young people to pursue their dreams. I’m a great

Jane Fonda’s exercise videos were the thing that

believer in fairy tales and making your dreams

inspired me. She started it all, but I wanted to

become reality.

move away from aerobics and develop a more

Half the battle in life is just believing in yourself and

intensive, grittier workout, like what I was doing

not giving up even when things don’t work out at

on an almost daily basis with my trainer, Radu.

the beginning. You never know which moment or

I wanted to come up with an exercise video for

event is going to help you succeed, but if you work

people of my generation, who were looking to

hard and have faith in yourself, chances are that

tone and strengthen their bodies.

good things are going to happen to you. What do you teach your daughter about image What’s the most important lesson you can

and how a young woman should deal with the

offer women when it comes to looking good

pressures that come with that?

and being fit?

The most important thing is to have a healthy

Nothing is better than working out on a regular

self-image and healthy relationship with your

basis. I still work out three times a week and I eat a

own body. I try to teach that to my daughter Kaia

very healthy diet. I can’t eat the way I used to and

and not have her worry about her looks. I want

even in my twenties, I saw that I had to change

her to eat properly and not feel self-conscious

my eating habits. I rarely drink wine anymore,

and think about her diet and weight. You have

because it makes my face puffy.

to be comfortable in your own skin and embrace everything that is distinctive and special about

How did you come to develop the workout

you. As women, we need to understand that we

videos?

are all different and unique.

144

M o del Tal k

Ro l e

M odels They might have made a career out of their striking features, but these models know that thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s more to living a beautiful life than whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s on the outside. We take a look at three models from very different eras, who are using their model status for good.

@liyakebede

• Who: Liya Kebede • Model highlights: Liya Kebede continued to dominate the runway in 2015, walking for Bottega Veneta, Loewe and Versace among others for spring/summer16, making her mark as the first black model to grace the cover of Vogue Paris in five years. A catwalk veteran, the 37-year-old’s big break came in 2000, when Tom Ford booked Kebede exclusively for Gucci. • Believes in: Preserving artisanal industry in Ethiopia. Kebede might call New York home, but her heart has always remained in the country of her birth. When she met traditional weavers in Ethiopia, who no longer had a market for their handwoven goods, Kebede created Lemlem (meaning to flourish or bloom in Amharic), selling charming cotton kaftans, scarves and homeware, handcrafted at the loom. “By employing traditional weavers, we’re trying to break their cycle of poverty, at the same time preserve the art of weaving while creating modern, casual, comfortable stuff that we really want to wear,” says Kebede. But, the multitasking doesn’t stop with ethical fashion: A WHO Goodwill Ambassador, Kebede is also a tireless advocate for maternal health, setting up the Liya Kebede Foundation (LKF) in 2005, which strives to reduce maternal, newborn and child mortality in Ethiopia and beyond. Equipping paediatric wards, training clinical staff and advocating modern health practices, LKF is making a real world difference. And, there’s nothing more beautiful than that.

@charlihoward

• Who: Charli Howard • Model highlights: A relative model newcomer, Charli Howard has shot glossy editorials with photographers including Rankin, since starting her career aged 17. Part of a new wave of models speaking up on the industry’s shortcomings, the Brit model’s star is on the rise. • Believes in: Promoting a healthy body image. It takes a brave woman to speak out against an entire industry, but when Charli Howard was told by her former agency that at 5’8” and a US size 2 she was “too big” and “too out of shape” to book work, she was moved to make a public statement that went viral. “I refuse to feel ashamed and upset on a daily basis for not meeting your ridiculous, unobtainable beauty standards,” she wrote in an open letter penned on her Facebook page. She might be committed to a career that is based on selling an aspirational image, but Howard doesn’t agree that she needs to be unhealthily thin in order to do so. Now with a new agency (Muse Management) and Words by: Natalie Trevis. Images courtesy of Liya Kebede @liyakebede, Charli Howard @charlihoward, Christy Turlington @cturlington

embraced in the media as a spokesperson for body-positivity, Howard has launched More Than a Number, a social media campaign that celebrates meaningful numbers that go beyond the digits on the scales, whether a significant date or number of qualifications, written on a proudly raised hand. If the industry is going to consistently celebrate beauty of all ages, ethnicities and sizes, voices like Howard’s are a leap in the right direction.

@cturlington

• Who: Christy Turlington • Model highlights: Part of the Nineties supermodel holy trinity that includes Naomi Campbell and Linda Evangelista, Christy Turlington has graced countless magazine covers ever since she first appeared on the cover of British Vogue, aged just 17. With campaigns for every major house from Chanel to Calvin Klein under her belt, along with a place in pop culture history as part of George Michael’s Freedom! video, Turlington is a true model mogul. • Believes in: Making pregnancy and childbirth safe for every mother. While turning her hand to athleisure lines and ayurvedic skincare line Sundãri may be enough to keep most model icons busy, the mother-of-two has also dedicated over a decade to philanthropic causes. An ambassador for relief agency CARE, it was Turlington’s directorial debut of the documentary film No Woman, No Cry in 2010, highlighting maternal health around the world, that provided the impetus for the formation of Turlington’s own foundation, Every Mother Counts. A subject close to her own heart, Turlington suffered complications giving birth to her daughter Grace, an experience that she realises she might not have survived had it not been for the expert medical care she received. Since 2012, Every Mother Counts has donated more than $1.5 million to lifesaving programs that address the barriers to maternal health in countries ranging from Uganda to India to Malawi. Yoga guru, marathon runner and adviser to the Harvard School of Public Health, Turlington is a model citizen in more ways than one.

146

Tal k ing P o i nt

The Rise of the

#GirlSquad Investigating one of the biggest trending words of 2015, we ask: Should we all now be part of a â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;#squadâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;? By Susan Devaney Photographed by Valentina Frugiuele

148

I blame the Spice Girls.

“Don’t waste your time. They won’t last long.”

Out they came, bounding onto our TV

But that’s the key to friendship, isn’t it? Time.

screens, all brash, bold and bossy, shouting

Some of the greatest movies we remember

‘Girl power!’ It really was love at first sight.

from our younger years centred on the concept

Don’t get me wrong, I liked all five of them,

of friendship, spanning one glorious summer

but Ginger (a.k.a Geri Halliwell) spoke to me.

away from school, and all its innocence.

Her steadfast quest for ‘girl power’ made

Who didn’t love ‘Stand by Me’? Based on

me want to join them. That was that – if I

Stephen King’s novel, ‘The Body’, a group

were to be taken seriously as a girl-band

of four young boys takes off on an adventure

wannabe, I had to be kitted out for it, too. The

in America – all childhood blood, guts and

appropriate attire was needed for this girl gang

glory included. Leaving behind a quote that

mission. I had the pure white bomber jacket

will forever resonate: “I never had any friends

with SPICE GIRLS stamped on the back,

later on like the ones I had when I was 12.

the lovingly labelled monochrome crop top –

Jesus, does anyone?” Or, what about ‘Now

and those platform shoes. My adoration was

and Then’? As my all-time favourite, the

unwavering, even when my granny protested:

summer-drenched imagery of Thora Birch,

Christina Ricci, Gaby Hoffman and Ashleigh

portrayal of Swift and her squad. Swift has

Aston Moore in Seventies-styled perfection

actively set herself up as the ringleader of

will forever be imprinted in mind. Facing the

a sisterhood of actors, models and singers,

trials and tribulations of coming-of-age as they

such as Selena Gomez, Kendall Jenner,

took off on an adventure out of town. We never

Cara Delevingne and Karlie Kloss, referring

quite discover the friendships we treasured

to them as her “girl squad”. Swift has out

as a child unless we’re really lucky, do we?

sold her contemporaries on an immeasurable

Yes, my granny was right about the Spice

scale. With talk of her having earned over a

Girls. Two years later and the news broke

million dollars per day, 2015 witnessed the

of Ginger’s departure, as girls around the

rise of one of the music industries biggest

world mourned their wannabe ginger manes,

stars (according to Forbes, Swift raked in $80

union jack dresses and the demise of the

million last year), and a woman beginning her

phenomena that was girl power (with an

own adventure. Whatever the correct figure,

added peace sign). But my granny was wrong

the fact is clear: Swift is on her way to world

about girl groups.

domination – but not without the help of her

Why do people always assume a large group of

female friends.

girls won’t stay together? That their friendship

I’ve lost count of the number of printed images

is fickle and it’ll flounder as quickly as it was

of Swift and her squad throughout last year.

found? Let’s go back to those childhood-based

However, the one that truly sticks in my mind

friendship films. We loved them because they

is her stage squad surrounding her during

were based around adventure. The adventure

her 1989 World Tour in New Jersey in July.

of the unknown: the wilderness, a long hot

Lily Aldridge, Gigi Hadid, Hailee Steinfeld and

summer, growing older, the removal of our

Lena Dunham all stood side-by-side with her,

parents and the surprising capabilities of our

facing Swift’s thousands of adoring fans. In

friends. In Gloria Steinem’s recently released

her own right, Dunham has paved a way for

memoir, ‘My Life on the Road’, she cleverly

the power of female friendship. In April 2012,

highlights the varying definitions between men

the first ever episode of HBO’s ‘Girls’ aired

and women when it comes to adventure: “…

across TV screens throughout the USA. And

Adventurer is “a person who has, enjoys or

the women of the world sat up and took note.

seeks adventures”, but adventuress is “a

From their blatant normality to their deep-

woman who uses unscrupulous means in

rooted friendships, Dunham presented a

order to gain wealth or social position”. Whilst

reminder of the power of female amity. The

reading this on my daily commute, I instantly

29-year-old creator and star of the series

thought this can be applicable to the media’s

has said (at the time) that even though her

150

characters may all date men, female friendship

during my youth.” Writing for the Hollywood

is “the true romance of the show”. Similarly,

Reporter at the tail end of last year, Paglia

Nineties hit show ‘Sex and the City’ spoke to

denounced the entire concept of being part of

30-something women in the same way as the

a squad: “Young women performers are now at

show revolved around the friendship of four

the mercy of a swarming, intrusive paparazzi

women. As they sat in their usual coffee shop

culture, intensified by the hypersexualisation

in New York City, they agreed: ”Maybe we can

of our flesh-baring fashions. The girl squad

be each other’s soul mates. And then we can

phenomenon has certainly been magnified by

let men be just these great, nice guys to have

how isolated and exposed young women feel in

fun with.” But Dunham’s squad even stretches

negotiating the piranha shoals of the industry

to the brains behind her show. She writes

[…] Girl squads can help women advance

each season with Jenni Konner and Sarah

if they avoid presenting a silly, regressive

Heyward, and has set up ‘Lenny Letter’ – a

public image – as in the tittering, tongues-

site that discusses everything from style and

out mugging of Swift’s bear-hugging posse […]

health to politics – with Konner. Judd Apatow,

For women to leave a lasting mark on culture,

the series producer, also produced all-star hit

they need to cut down on the socialising and

female comedy, ‘Bridesmaids’. Who was it

focus like a laser on their own creative gifts.”

again that proclaimed women weren’t funny?

Are we simply, really intimidated by an uber-

But as Swift’s squad grows larger by the

ambitious gal pal group? Do we need to cut

day, it does make me think back to my high

down on the socialising? Should we act prim

school days. We all suffered at the hands of

and proper as to ensure we’re taken seriously?

the ‘mean girls’, and if you didn’t suffer, then

Or can we just have some fun with friends?

you must have been the one administering the

I’m pretty certain having a firm female group

suffering. I admit it: There can be an element of

around you can only be a good thing. Women

elitism projected from a squad. If you weren’t

mentoring each other as our careers develop,

picked to be part of the ‘squad’, you sat on the

as we face life’s ever-changing challenges,

sidelines, a lonely place for many a high school

as we grow older (albeit wiser) just like our

nerd longing to be seen as ‘cool’. Camille

childhood days.

Paglia, known for her seminal feminist works

Time may be a contributing factor to a

such as ‘Sexual Personae’, recently wrote a

friendship’s success, but the rise of Swift’s girl

scathing critique of Swift, calling the singer

squad is a sign of the times we’re living in. As we

an “obnoxious Nazi Barbie” whose “twinkly

ride together on a new wave of feminism, now

persona is such a scary flashback to the

is the time for the #GirlSquad to stay put. The

fascist blondes who ruled the social scene

word ‘feminist’ and the concept of feminism is

being talked about like never before. Journalist

– such as Cameron Diaz, Gwyneth Paltrow,

Hadley Freeman, writing for the Guardian

Nicole Richie and Drew Barrymore – are often

newspaper, put it simply: “I wish feminism

seen out and about together. From ‘Pitch

were more complicated, because it would

Perfect’ to ‘Bridesmaids’, the biggest selling

explain why so many people misunderstand it.

films in recent years have turned to female

But it is actually amazingly simple: It is belief

friendship, in groups. As Hillary Clinton runs

in gender equality. There are complications

for US presidency, claiming “I believe the rights

within it, but that’s all it is. The reason it has

of girls and women is the unfinished business

a special name is because equality is not

of the 21st Century”, and as hashtags such

the human race’s default position and only a

as #SquadGoals (an aspirational term used

very wealthy, white, heterosexual man could

on social media to highlight something you

possibly think otherwise.” And it’s trickling

and your friends want to accomplish) and

across all aspects of society. Even throughout

#GirlSquad continue to trend into this year,

SS16 fashion week season, women were

being part of a #GirlSquad is like taking a

photographed now more than ever in pairs

cue from the cosmos. But I don’t blame

or groups. Celebrity female friendship groups

Swift; I want to join her.

152

L i f e i n C ultu r e

Life in Colour:

As the first Middle Eastern woman to take part in the Chelsea Flower Show, and the creative landscape designer behind Al Barari, Kamelia Bin Zaal discusses botanical blooms, books and building dreams in 2016.

designer? I have grown up watching my father and grandfather in the garden, so I think I have always had an affinity towards plants and the outdoors. I also have an artistic background, and although I loved working in the government of Dubai, I felt something was missing. How has your family encouraged and influenced your work? Actually, my father tried to talk me out of doing garden design to begin with as I was doing so well in the government. But, I believe in following your heart when it comes to work, so I took a risk. However, my parents have always been encouraging of all their children to push themselves and succeed. From movies to literature, we’ve always been fascinated by gardens – why do you think this is? Gardens are sanctuaries for the soul. Our lives revolve around the earth we live on and our environment is fundamental to our survival, so we are integrally linked to our surroundings. Any garden is a reflection of that link. What books will you be reading in 2016? I love books that take me into other peoples’ lives, or historical novels. ‘The Mountain Shadow’ by Gregory David Roberts – I loved his first book ‘Shantaram’

photographed by Veronika Lukasova, Corbis, Images photographed by Kamelia Bin Zaal, Words by Susan Devaney

Kamelia Bin Zaal

Have you always wanted to become a garden

and this is a continuation. ‘The Prophet’ by Khalil Gibran; I read it every year. ‘The Desert God’ by

Flowers on Table Mountain in South Africa

Wilbur Smith is one of a series of novels based in Ancient Egypt. Last year, I read 14 books by Robert Jordan, a series called the ‘Wheel of Time’ – it’s very Tolkien. What trips do you have planned for 2016? In February, I will be in Thailand for a wedding; in March, I am off to Japan for a few days. Hopefully, in April, I will be going to Bhutan with Gulf For Good. July, I have my brother’s wedding in France and, in August, I will be in Devon, England. So, it’s a busy year. What other artists do you admire for their work? Right now, I am really into artists from the Far East, like Seungmo Park – a Korean artist who creates these amazing aluminum wire pieces of

Mediterranean Garden in Al Barari

art. Also, a Japanese artist called Shintaro Ohata, who combines painting and sculpture. Another one I love is Xia Xiao Wan, who paints on layers of glass to create these ethereal masterpieces. But my major love is street art, and yes I love Banksy for his outspoken art, but there are so many talented artists out there, like David Walker, David Choe, Faith 47 and others, who do incredible pieces. Beauty of Islam’ garden, Al Barari

Do you have any ‘life goals’? Always! That’s what keeps me motivated. As a mother, I hope that I will bring up a young man who is respectful and sensitive, and who understands how important it is to protect the environment we live in and everything living in it; to want to learn more about other people and celebrate our cultural differences, regardless of where we come from or what religion we are. How would you describe your personal style? Simple and elegant, but with a little funky twist. Where is your favourite place in the world and why? Right now, it’s the Maldives, purely because it’s the only place I can relax entirely and switch off. But Africa as a continent is in my bones, as I was in and out of Kenya until I was four years old. There is nowhere else like it. What’s the best piece of advice you’ve ever received? “You are your own limit”.

Flowers on Table Mountain in South Africa

154

Vivid Sights Spring welcomes the return of brightly coloured beauty, after a season of barely-there hues reigned supreme. With flashes of neon accents and rainbow brights seen at Issey Miyake and Diane von Furstenberg, explore vibrant shades of magenta and cerise for a bolder vision. Clockwise from top left: OPI Nail Lacquer, The Berry Thought of You | OPI Nail Lacquer, The “it” Color | BOBBI BROWN at Harvey Nichols Dubai, Art Stick, Sunset Orange | CHANEL Sunkiss Ribbon, Blush Harmony | ESTÉE LAUDER, Pure Color Envy Matte Lipstick, 210 Neon Azalea | GIORGIO ARMANI at Harvey Nichols Dubai, Eyes to Kill Eyeshadow, 17 Green Viper

Photographed by Sarvenaz Hashtroudi, shot on locatio at the Savannah Du Quercy Art Studio

f i n a l n ote

Photographed by MAX PAPENDIECK

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