N ° 35 MARCH
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SPRING 2016
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SPRING 2016
Glovetanned Saddle Bag in Cornflower, Rexy Crewneck on Ally
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32 Chairman SHAHAB IZADPANAH
EDITORIAL
PUBLISHING
Editor in Chief MOJEH IZADPANAH
Publishing Director RADHIKA NATU
Associate Editor SHERI IZADPANAH
Publishing Assistant DESIREE LABANDA-GAVERIA
Managing Editor KELLY BALDWIN
Junior Publishing Assistant Kisada Hurin
Senior Fashion Writer Natalie Trevis
Paris Representative GHISLAIN DE CASTELBAJAC
Fashion Writer susan devaney
Senior Advertisement Manager Pamela Bayram Cleave
Editorial Assistant Dmitri Ruwan Sophie pasztor
Advertising Inquiries Tel: +971 4 553 90 49 Email: advertising@mojeh.com
Guest Fashion Stylists OLIVIA CANTILLON ALBA MELINDA IVAN RASIC PAULINE ROZE Camille-Joséphine Teisseire
Subscription Tel: +971 4 553 90 49 Email: subs@mojeh.com
LOUIS FOURTEEN FOR MOJEH
ART
Concierge Service Management daisy marchant
Producer LOUIS AGENCY
Corporate Manager JUBRAN HAMATI
Art Director AMIRREZA AMIRASLANI
Online Division Ali Roman
Graphic Designer Balaji Mahendran
Lifestyle Assistance kasia wawryszuk
Digital Strategy LOUIS AGENCY Contributing Photographers ANTHONY ARQUIER GREG ADAMSKI MARCO CELLA Michelle Du XUAN SARVENAZ HASHTROUDI JULIEN VALLON
Cover photographed by Julien Vallon, model wears Louis Vuitton
Published under HS Media Group FZ LLC Registered at Dubai Design District Building No. 8, Offices 212-213 P.O.Box 502333, Dubai, UAE. WWW.MOJEH.COM Louis Fourteen for MOJEH Follow us on Twitter @MOJEH_Magazine MOJEH Swiss Representative Office: Rue de Rive 4, 1204 Geneva, Switzerland Average qualified circulation (January-June 2015): 13,306 copies. For the UAE printed by Emirates Printing Press LLC. Distribution- UAE: Al Nisr Distribution LLC. Qatar: Dar Al Sharq. Bahrain: Jashanmal & Sons BSC (C). Oman: United Media Services LLC. Lebanon: Messageries Du Moyen-Orient The publishers regret that they cannot accept liability for error or omissions contained in this publication, however caused. The opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessary those of the publishers. Readers are advised to seek specialist advice before acting on information contained in this publication which is provided for general use and may not be appropriate for the readers particular circumstances. The ownership of trademark is acknowledged, therefore reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. All credits are subjects to change. Copyright HS MEDIA GROUP FZ LLC 2011
34
M o j eh C o ntent s
Fashion
Week Edit
138. FASHION Trends From romantic ruffles and balloon sleeves to a rave revival, peruse our edit of this season’s go-to trends for the coming months.
164. COLOUR and PRINT Trends With a new season comes a new mood, look to shades of lovely lilac, shimmering silver and icy sherbet to embrace summer’s cool palette.
182. ACCESSORy Trends No outfit is complete without a dose of adornments. With a Nineties resurgence occurring, the beloved backpack, ornate chokers and neck scarves are back.
196. THE NEW CODES OF COUTURE The world of couture has reached a turning point. From rebellion to modern realism, we showcase the highlights from the City of Light.
294. HAIR and BEAUTY Trends From grunge glam and the retro quiff, we’ve taken a new direction for spring and there’s something to suit everybody.
Tod’s Boutiques • Dubai: Burjuman Centre - Mall Of The Emirates - The Dubai Mall - Galeries Lafayette, Level Shoe District Abu Dhabi: Marina Mall - The Galleria Al Maryah Island
A B U D H A B I T H E G A L L E R I A A L M A R YA H I S L A N D D U B A I M A L L O F T H E E M I R AT E S D O H A V I L L A G G I O M A L L J E D D A H K H AY YAT C E N T E R R I YA D H C E N T R I A M A L L K U W A I T C I T Y T H E A V E N U E S P R E S T I G E M A N A M A B A H R A I N C I T Y C E N T R E S A K S F I F T H A V E N U E
38
Mojeh
PHOTOSHOOTS
90. THE DROP From Saint Laurent and Emilio Pucci to Isabel Marant, escape to the ever-changing terrain of fashion’s future.
214. WHILE WE’RE YOUNG Taking to the love-filled streets of Venice, we adopted a moment of opulence in ruby red or glimmering gold, as we celebrated our anniversary in style.
236. TOMORROW’S DREAM Step out of the light and commit to a moody hue for spring. A tonal colour palette is the only way to go to make a statement or two.
246. Unique Encounters Let curiosity perpetuate into a world of perspective as normality transitions into the wonderfully bizarre.
256. Mixed Emotions Dare to pair luxurious high jewellery pieces with your daywear. We show you how to adorn a new era in fineries.
42
Mojeh
Woman
66. BELLA FREUD: THE ESSENCE OF COOL She may be the heir of an artistic dynasty, but British designer Bella Freud tells us why the international ‘It Girl’ crowd are in awe of her knitwear.
72. MY STYLISH LIFE: DALIA NSOULI Dalia Nsouli, a regional trendsetter, gives us an insight into how she manages to balance work, life and everything in-between.
104. ALICIA IN WONDERLAND Is there anything Alicia Vikander can’t do? Get to know the muse, actress and role model as her star continues to rise.
310. BEAUTY AND BODY SECRETS Who is Negin Mirsalehi? With nearly 3 million followers on Instagram, she gives us an insight into her health and beauty regime.
332. BEING ROTANA Rotana Tarabzouni possesses a powerful voice. Meet the LA-based singer-songwriter from Saudi Arabia who believes in a world with no boundaries.
© 2016 CHLOE. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
fashion avenue, the dubai mall, dubai chloe.com
avenuE AT Etihad towers, abu dhabi
– WILLIAM SHAKESPEARE
MALL OF THE EMIRATES | 04 409 8888
46
Jewellery
& WATCHES
268. THE STORY TELLERS OF TIME How does Cartier keep moving forward? We sat down with Pierre Rainero during this year’s Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie in Geneva.
280. THE ESSENCE OF TIME Which timepieces will you add to your collection this year? Look to the launches that enjoy both advanced mechanisms and beautiful designs.
288. TAKE THE ROUGH WITH THE SMOOTH Would you buy something that’s less than perfect? From L.A. to Dubai, waves of fine jewellery designers are embracing the beauty of imperfect stones.
CELEBRATION 126. FIVE YEARS LATER We speak with six inspiring influencers from the fields of fashion, business and the arts, for whom 2011, like MOJEH, was a breakout year.
130. A WORLD AWAY From New York to Paris, L.A. and Venice, as MOJEH celebrates its 5th anniversary we take a look back at the worldly places that have constantly inspired us.
48
Talking
POINTS
76. THE GENDER GAP The women of Hollywood are speaking up. Does this mean pervasive sexism that runs through the industry is finally dismantling?
110. THE RISE OF THE NEW AVANT-GARDE Is avant-garde fashion still relevant today? We explore the new radicals, who are taking a fashion road less travelled.
318. THE CALM AFTER THE STORM Following our essay last month on the rise of anxiety in young women and its causes, we turn the spotlight on ways of overcoming it.
FEATURES 84. NOVEL THOUGHTS As head designer of Loewe and his own eponymous label, Jonathan Anderson shares his bold ambitions for the future of fashion.
322. AN UNLOCKED TREASURE As relations between East and West begin to ease, focus has fallen on the city of Tehran and its burgeoning cultural scene.
325454
52
E d i t o r ’s L ette r
A Turning Point As I write, we’re on the front line of fashion weeks and knee deep in the autumn winter ’16 runway shows. But, after covering the shows for over half a decade, I’ve suddenly found myself in an unfamiliar situation. Diane Von Furstenberg chose a presentation as opposed to the traditional runway, Hedi Slimane at Saint Laurent moved his show from Paris to LA at a moment’s notice, and we’re awaiting Burberry’s first show in which men’s and womenswear are presented on the same platform, available to buy immediately. The industry is in flux, to say the least. How will the next month pan out? More importantly, where will be at this point in 2017? Only time will tell. With MOJEH turning five this month and re-launching its website, these changes couldn’t offer greater cause for celebration. Over the past few years, we’ve continually commentated from the frontline of fashion, not only offering news, but also sifting through this mountain of information on your behalf, presenting a sophisticated dialogue and an edited viewpoint. And, as we reach a turning point in the industry, our various mediums allow us to serve you even better through what’s set to be a tempestuous year. This month, we make our predictions for fashion’s future leaders. In Novel Thoughts, J.W. Anderson – the young British designer who has pushed heritage brand Loewe into a new age while transforming the face of London fashion – tells us why craftsmanship and fabric technology is key. We chose Alicia Vikander as a representation of the new era in Hollywood actresses – stylish, determined and incredibly adaptable in terms of talent. In The Drop, we took our fashion team into the mountains of Oman, where the untouched, all natural backdrop further highlights the bewildering brilliance of fabric technology (see what a Prada sequin can do under the lights of a sunset or the malleable nature of Marco de Vincenzo’s fabric when placed in a soft breeze). In our seasonal edits, you’ll also find a sharp overview of the trends to know for the season (whether you decide to covet them or not). Finally, under the creative direction of the incredible Nicolas Ghesquière, Louis Vuitton graces our cover for this special issue. Sheer dedication to his craft, along with his seemingly limitless approach to creativity, is something we respect and admire, and interpreting his work along with that of his peers has offered us boundless opportunity for beautiful storytelling over the years. While they’re still flourishing, so will we.
Follow me on Twitter and Instagram @Mojeh_I and write to me at editor@mojeh.com
Mojeh Izadpanah Editor in Chief
Tomorrow’s Dream, photographed by Julien Vallon
54
E d i t o r ’s SN A P SHOT s
POWER GAMES 5
1
2
3&4
As we welcome a new season, we look towards fiercer styles for the modern woman. Structured silhouettes become more dominant for spring and powerful hues of fire engine red work against monochromatic elements. Mod inspired influences take root within the detail, lending themselves to patent leathershine, cat-eye frames and chequer board prints. 1. LOUIS VUITTON | 2. PARMIGIANI Fleurier | 3. CHARLOTTE OLYMPIA | 4. VICTORIA BECKHAM | 5. MARNI @net-a-porter.com | 6. HIRSCHELL @avenue32.com | 7. GUCCI | 8. MIU MIU
6
7
8
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J e w ellery N ot e s
Escape traditional styles and look to Chanel’s CamÊlia Coromandel watch, set with 142 brilliant cut diamonds. Evoking a masculine edge with patent leather and free-flying femininity within its detailed framework showcasing a romantic strength in your forever timepiece.
Watch, CHANEL Fine Jewellery
Photographed by Sarvenaz Hashtroudi
Time to Break Free
58
st yl e notes
With a stampede of chunky-soled heels making their way down the runways, Seventies inspired platforms have reached new heights for spring. From towering stripes at Gucci to neutral hues at Saint Laurent, transition your platforms from dainty to weighty.
Top to bottom: GUCCI | SAINT LAURENT | CHARLOTTE OLYMPIA | FENDI
Photographed by Sarvenaz Hashtroudi
A Return of Heights
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Photographed by Sarvenaz Hashtroudi
60 s t yl e notes
Entrapment Metallic hues with modernist elements evoke futuristic notes this season. From Louis Vuitton’s twisted chain bag to Jimmy Choo’s caged courts, combine a forward-thinking colour palette with space-age styles. Left to right: JIMMY CHOO | LOUIS VUITTON | FENDI
62
first look
The Daily Turn your focus from fashion to art as the region
Head over to MOJEH.com
welcomes back Art Dubai
this March for instant
for its tenth year. Follow our
updates from the AW16
daily for beautifully crafted pieces to accompany you throughout the week.
ready-to-wear shows, along with behind the scenes coverage and insider news.
MOJEH.com
Street Style We showcase the most achingly cool of styles from around the globe. Be inspired for the summer ahead.
MOJEH Videos Explore fashion through film as our photographers and models take to the streets of Paris in exploration of the ethereal SS16 collections.
Health and Beauty Health is exactly where it should be for 2016: Right at the top of our agendas. Tune in to MOJEH.com for the latest expert advice.
64
S t yl e notes
Midnight
Hour
Photographed by Sarvenaz Hashtroudi
With lightning bolt passion and fearless vision, Alessandro Michele has crafted a new era of coveted accessories. Redefining the Gucci girl as contemporary, independent and effortlessly majestic, the Dionysus bag has become our season’s most desired.
Bag, GUCCI
66
m o j eh w o man
The Essence of Cool Capturing the essence of the free-spirited Seventies comes naturally to British designer (and heir of an artistic dynasty) Bella Freud. From Alexa Chung and Jeanne Damas to Kate Moss, the international It Girl crowd is in awe of her poetically emblazoned knits, and so are we.
How do you approach each new day in terms of styling your outfit? Most days I tend to wear the same thing, partly out of laziness and partly because I like the same thing. I wear a pair of jeans with one of my jumpers. My outfit is pretty scruffy, but if I wear it with a pair of wedges, it suddenly looks more glamourous. Shoes have the power to transform the mood of your look more than anything else. You’re elegant and cool, but never ever overdressed. What’s the formula? Well, that’s very nice of you to say. I am quite confident in wearing the same few things I like. I’m my own boss and I don’t have to dress up for anyone or dress smartly. Smart dressing is quite deadening. You have many stylish followers, including Alexa Chung and Jeanne Damas; (in your opinion) what makes these girls cool? These girls look cool because they are interested in life, not just clothes. They look like they don’t care too much about their look, but have enjoyed putting it together – even if it only took five minutes. How would you describe your aesthetic? I once hit upon the phrase ‘upmarket irreverence’. That’s what I’m aiming for, whether it’s dressed to the nines or going to the park with the dog. What do you look for in the materials you use? I look for a gleam, however hard to discern. I want the subtlest black knitted jumper to be imbued with an undercurrent of glamour. I love materials with a bit of punk-ish glamour. Who and what influences your designs? A couple of my girlfriends always trigger new thoughts and inspiration for designs – they wear things in a fresh and original way that is a joy to behold. I find that inspiration is lurking everywhere, I get a lot of ideas from reading; words trigger visuals more than images.
Photographed by Mary McCartney, Interview by Susan Devaney.
Bella Freud:
Designer Bella Freud.
What was the inspiration behind the ‘Ginsberg is God’ sweater? Ginsberg is God was my first Word sweater. It started off when I was making a film about beatniks with John Malkovich. I wanted it to be like band merchandise, 1950’s style. Your ‘1970’ sweater was one of the most coveted pieces of 2015. What influenced it? A lot of the music I like is from the 1970s, I like the rawness and unpolished sound and look of that time. I like the word ‘1970’ – it suggests something against the grain. Your designs play with both femininity and masculine elements; has this always been your vision? I was a tomboy growing up, I’ve always loved the straight lines of boys’ clothing, and the simplicity. I find that a girl dressed boyishly is very feminine. As I am not very curvaceous myself, I can relate to it easily and enjoy adding the girlish to the boy or the boyish to the girl in my designs. Who do you think epitomises a timeless sense of style today? I think the way Kate Moss dresses is the most exciting and fun as she doesn’t stick to a formula, she often surprises us with something utterly new and seductive. She is not bound by constraints and seems glamorous in everything she puts together. It is quite awe-inspiring. Your aesthetic has a very British-meetsFrench girl appeal. Has this been influenced by your life? I have been a big fan of French films and I love the way French women are chic in whatever they do. They seem to imbue the most mundane activity with smouldering sexual tension under a veneer of polish. I love this combination! That mixed with British scruffiness is very alluring. What’s next for 2016? More!
68
Fa sh io n IN FO C U S
HIGH STAKES Volume comes in unexpected forms as oversized pants and structured flares recreate high-society dressing. Opt for simplistic hats in iridescent tweed and mini-quilted messengers for ultra refinement.
1. CHANEL | 2. POCA & POCA | 3. Delpozo | 4. Angel Schlesser, Pour Elle | 5. MIU MIU | 6. KENZO
CHECK ME Haphazard prints and contrasting lines make for statement dressing when combined with a monochromatic colour palette. Opt for textured shoes and fun-loving accessories for a twist.
1. PIAGET | 2. WEILL | 3. Sandro | 4. Gucci | 5. MARC JACOBS | 6. GREY ANT @bysymphony
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ULTRA SPORT Box pleats and colour-blocked soles let the upbeat vibe of sportswear infuse your wardrobe with pieces that will stay for years. Pair cashmere knits with sapphire shades and contemporary accessories.
1. Schiaparelli | 2. BURBERRY @stylebop.com | 3. Kristina fidelskaya | 4. christian DIOR | 5. PRADA | 6. Santoni
COOL KITSCH Eclectic bags and contrasting hues allow your quirky side to enjoy the beauty of the moment with braided platform sandals and baby-doll frock tops, even as panelled heels elevate your look.
1. ESCADA | 2. LULU GUINNESS | 3. Sandro | 4. Dsquared2 | 5. GUCCI | 6. Paula Cademartori
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S o c i ety B elles
My Stylish Life:
Dalia Nsouli
Photographed by Rhys Simpson-Hopkins, shot on location at the Treehouse Lounge in the Taj Dubai Hotel
We meet Dalia Nsouli to talk life, style and travel, and how she balances life as a corporate career woman with being one of Qatar’s leading fashion mavens.
Dalia wears a Johanna Ortiz off-the-shoulder top, vintage Levi 501 jeans from Peekaboo Vintage in London, Gucci shoes and watch from Piaget.
Motto to live by: Apple’s “Think Different” | Best advice you’ve ever been given: My mom always told me never to cry over spent money, and spilled milk. This way I regret less and live more | Person who has taught you the most in life: My mother | What/who/where inspires you the most: Success | Most inspired by: Self-contentment and satisfaction | Goal for 2016: To work even harder | Most cherished possession: My wedding ring | Best memory: My honeymoon | Biggest work accomplishment: Juggling three careers, including a full-time corporate job | Song on repeat: Frank Ocean’s Thinking About You – oldie but goodie | Favourite beach destination: I’m booked to go to The Great Barrier Reef in Australia, so I’m hoping it’s that | Favourite place in the world: New York | Favourite city in the Middle East: Beirut, my hometown | Favourite breakfast spot in Qatar: On the beach at The Four Seasons Hotel | Summer travel: Other than Beirut, we’re planning to go around the US East Coast, namely the Hamptons, Martha’s Vineyard and New York, of course | Favourite food: Thai food; Pad Thai | Sweet or savoury: Savoury, by far | Love or hate surprises: Love love love them | Favourite fashion brands: J.W. Anderson, Rosie Assoulin, Dries Van Noten, Gucci | Favourite Qatari designer: I would say Wadha Al Hajri | Best online e-tailer: So many, but I love matchesfashion, net-
Dalia wears Johanna Ortiz checkered top with a custom made skirt and Audemars Piguet watch.
a-porter, asos and etsy | Heels or flats: Heels are
sure be a clashing outfit, typically a print shirt with
more satisfying, but I’m rarely in them | Girly girl
a stripe or polka dot midi skirt that has nothing to
or tomboy: Tomboy forever | Bright and bold or
do with the top. I like bold and loud outfits, which
simplistic and neutral: Bright and bold | New
reflect your inner personality | Bag of the moment:
wave or vintage finds: Vintage always | White
I just got a nano Louis Vuitton backpack that I’m
shirts in your wardrobe: At least 12, some of
obsessed with | Favourite city or place to shop:
which I took from my husband | Work style:
New York – so many bargains and options | Trend
Monochrome and androgynous | Weekend style:
to covet for SS16: Metallics and silver seems
Over-the-top | Wardrobe staple: A white tee and
to still be going strong into SS16, as are glittery
a perfect fitting pair of jeans | Outfit changes a
embellished pieces. Ruffles and tiers are back – and
day: Twice; for work and play | Number of shoes
I’m not complaining. The one thing I’m happiest
in your closet: Lost count | Time taken to get
about is the comeback of the mighty stripe! Stripes
ready: 15-20 minutes, including makeup | Style
everywhere this summer | Best gift you’ve been
icon: Princess Diana | Signature style: It would for
given: A vintage Hermès Kelly 20cm that is very rare
74
Dalia wears red leather skirt from JW Anderson, striped shirt from Michae Lo Sordo and heels from Manolo Blahnik.
Blow-dry or au naturel: Au naturel; I don’t have time for blow-dries | Best hair treatment: Biosilk hair serum by Farouk Systems | Favourite beauty brand: Dermalogica | Staple lipstick and shade: Velvet Teddy by MAC and Barry M’s Genie, which is a green lipstick that turns red | Nail colour for spring: A brownish grey | Pared back beauty or red carpet glam: I’m definitely laid back and not high maintenance; I’m not very big on make up, and have never tried extensions, false nails, etc. | Best health or beauty tip you’ve ever been given: To floss and brush my teeth before I sleep | Favourite at-home beauty solution: I have never made anything except for fresh lemon juice! | Signature scent: Niroli by Annick Goutal | Daily beauty regime: In the morning, I always moisturise with a day cream that contains SPF 20. I make sure to apply it under my makeup as a primer. In the evening, I wash my face twice with special facial soap, once to remove the makeup and once to wash my bare skin. I pat my face with tonic afterwards and let it air dry before applying a special night cream, containing Vitamin C | How do you stay in shape: I work out almost on a daily basis; I run a lot and love to | Natural/herbal
“My mom always told me never to cry over spent money, and spilled milk. This way I regret less and live more.”
remedies that you swear by: Fresh ginger tea every night before I sleep | Best workout: Running medium to long distances at a steady pace and regularly. I love to run and run every day | Favourite place to run: Treadmill; it’s way too hot to run anywhere else here | Yoga or Pilates: Neither; running | Do you prefer to be at sea or inland: Inland; not a fan of the sea for long periods of time
DUBAI - DOHA - KUWAIT CITY ABU DHABI - RIYADH - JEDDAH
giuseppezanottidesign.com
76
Tal k ing P o i nt
The
Gender Gap
will arrive in 2017. No other woman in Hollywood has directed a $100 million live-action film. And it’s 2016. Why is it that the male executives of Hollywood believe women can’t do action? “The rumour in Hollywood is that female action figures don’t have shelf-appeal and are harder to shift. Apparently, studio executives are
Women are speaking up. They’re ready to direct multi-million blockbuster films and run studios. Does this mean that the pervasive sexism that runs through Hollywood is finally dismantling?
worried they will take a hit on the merchandise revenues for next year’s all-female ‘Ghostbusters’ movie, directed by Paul Feig, for just this reason,” wrote journalist
By Susan Devaney
Elizabeth Day for The Guardian newspaper. The problem is so worrying that actress Geena Davis commissioned Stacy Smith, a researcher at the University of Southern California, to study the issue and help push the
World’. The power of my own
arena. From 2007 through 2014,
plates shifting as I use my
imagination knows no bounds? Yes,
according to Smith’s research,
superpower to do good.
apparently it does… if I’m a female
women made up only 30.2 per cent
I close the titanium door on my
director. The film went on to make
of speaking or named characters in
spaceship and zoom off into
$1.6 billion at the box office and
the 100 top-grossing fictional films.
another galaxy.
he was consequently signed up to
“After ‘Thelma & Louise’, which
I can sense its ravenous mind racing,
direct the ninth ‘Star Wars’. “Would I
was pretty noticed and potent and
as I’m poised, heart pumping, to
have been chosen to direct ‘Jurassic
significant, [people were saying]
fend off a dinosaur.
World’ if I was a female filmmaker
‘This changes everything! There’s
When questioned as to why there
who had made one small film?”
going to be so many female buddy
was a lack of women directing
Trevorrow mused when speaking
movies!’ – and nothing changed.
such action-packed blockbusters,
with Slashfilm.com. “I have no idea.”
Then the next movie I did was ‘A
Colin Trevorrow, an up-and-coming
But the women of Hollywood have
League of Their Own’, which was a
director, suggested that there
an idea. In previous issues, we’ve
huge hit and all the talk was, ‘Well
were less female directors making
never shied away from discussing
now, beyond a doubt, women’s
films involving “superheroes or
the sexism and ageism that still
sports movies, we’re going to see
spaceships or dinosaurs” because
prevails in Hollywood – from ‘This
a wave of them because this was
not many women had the desire to
Is 40’ to ‘Ladies Who Lead’ – it’s a
so successful.’ That’s b***s. It
direct studio blockbusters. With one
topic of great discussion. Kathryn
took 10 years until ‘Bend It Like
established indie film to his name,
Bigelow got a big budget for ‘K-
Beckham’ came out. So, there
Trevorrow directed and co-wrote the
19: The Widowmaker’ and director
was no trend whatsoever,” she
$150 million blockbuster ‘Jurassic
Patty Jenkins’s ‘Wonder Woman’
told The Guardian UK newspaper.
All images courtesy of Getty.
studios beyond a male-dominated I can feel the Earth’s tectonic
“It’s kind of like the church, they don’t want us to be priests. They want us to be obedient nuns. Anjelica Huston”
Actresses Carey Mulligan, Anne Marie Duff, Helena Bonham Carter and Romola Garai attend the ‘Suffragette’ premiere in London last year
However, throughout 2015, a series
as a working woman because I
per cent of cinematographers, 89 per
of tales and home truths were thrust
can safely say my problems aren’t
cent of screenwriters, 82 per cent
into the spotlight and the issue has
exactly relatable. When the Sony hack
of editors, 81 per cent of executive
now become a hot topic. And women
happened and I found out how much
producers and 77 per cent of
talked. The Sony Pictures e-mail hack
less I was being paid … I didn’t get
producers were men. But why does
revealed that actresses Jennifer
mad at Sony. I got mad at myself.
sexism in film remain so pervasive?
Lawrence and Amy Adams received
I failed as a negotiator because I
Jill Soloway, the creator and
less money than Jeremy Renner and
gave up early. I didn’t want to keep
director of the hit Amazon TV drama
Bradley Cooper for ‘American Hustle’.
fighting over the millions of dollars
‘Transparent’, said during her speech
The scandal also revealed that nearly
that, frankly, due to two franchises,
at a Women in Film event last year:
all of the top executives at Sony were
I don’t need.” And other actresses
“Male creators, show runners,
white and male. As a consequence,
have quipped in too. Last year,
producers and directors have to face
the A.C.L.U. in Los Angeles and the
Anne Hathaway told the New York
the immorality – their own immorality
A.C.L.U.’s Women’s Rights Project in
Times that, professionally speaking,
– of hiring their friends, of telling male
New York petitioned state and federal
she had been “treated differently
stories, of perpetuating male privilege
agencies to delve further into the
because I was a woman”.
through protagonism. The male gaze –
matter, leading the Equal Employment
Behind the lens, the case is worse.
men as subject, woman as object – is
Opportunity Commission to open an
In both 2013 and 2014, women were
business as usual for men to be able
investigation. Writing for director and
only 1.9 per cent of directors for the
to keep telling their stories from their
writer Lena Dunham’s Lennyletter.
top 100 top-grossing films. Professor
point of view.” Female directors are
com, Lawrence said: “It’s hard for
Martha Lauzen of San Diego State
in what ‘Girls’ creator Lena Dunham
me to speak about my experience
University reports that in 2014, 95
calls “a dark loop”.
78
Carey Mulligan, Tobey Maguire, Leonardo DiCaprio, Baz Luhrmann, and Joel Edgerton at the 66th Annual Cannes Film Festival
There is plenty of evidence to back
Bullock went so far as to convince
women dying to see some movies.”
up female success. From ‘Mamma
the studio executives behind
Last
Mia’ and ‘Bridesmaids’ to ‘Frozen’,
Hollywood film ‘Our Brand Is
highlighted further the number of
these films have grossed millions.
Crisis’ to rewrite the lead role as
award-worthy films that failed the
Not forgetting ‘Hunger Games’ and
a woman for her to play. Angelina
Bechdel Test (which asks whether a
‘Pitch Perfect’ to ‘Fifty Shades of
Jolie is increasingly creating and
work of fiction features at least two
Grey’, all with female-centred plots
starring in her own films. ABC
women who talk to each other about
and directed by women. They may
powerhouse
Rhimes
something other than a man). But,
be making a tonne of profit, but
recently told the New York Times:
the tide is somewhat turning. Amy
they’re viewed as flukes. “It’s kind
“The world of movies is fascinating
Poehler, Reese Witherspoon, Paul
of like the church,” said actress
to me because everyone has
Feig, Lena Dunham, Jenni Konner,
Anjelica Huston, whose father was
amnesia all the time. Every time a
Adam McKay and Will Ferrell are
a well-known film director, “they
female-driven project is made and
all investing in showcasing women
don’t want us to be priests. They
succeeds, somehow it’s a fluke.
from start to finish of the filmmaking
want us to be obedient nuns.”
Instead of saying ‘The Hunger
process by setting up their own
Instead of accepting the role of an
Games’ is popular among young
production companies. No wonder
‘obedient nun’, many women are
women, they say it only made
men find women so ‘mysterious’,
taking things into their own hands.
money because Jennifer Lawrence
‘difficult’ or ‘complicated’, if
Established Hollywood actresses
was luminous and amazing. I
all they ever see on screen is a
such as Reese Witherspoon and
mean, you go get yours, girl. But
diluted, uninteresting version of
Sandra Bullock have both set-up
seriously, that’s ridiculous. There’s
reality. It’s boring – something
successful production companies.
a very hungry audience of young
women are not. We want action.
Shonda
m o n t h ’s
Oscars
only
80
m o j eh w o man
Can you tell us of other businesswomen you admire and why. I admire all women who have the courage to be first movers in their industry. It takes a certain level of strength and character to be willing to take a risk like that. So, from Natalie Massenet of Net-A-Porter to Malala Yousafzai, there are so many women who are an inspiration to me. You have over 145k followers on Instagram. Do you hope your social media presence influences young women? I always hope to have a positive influence on other girls, and if I can do that through social media, then why not? I have often had girls follow me in Delhi, London and other parts of the world and tell me they started Indian classical dance after seeing my videos on Instagram – that always feels great. Other women look to you as a role model. What do you hope you inspire them to do? I hope to inspire other young women to follow their dreams and to pursue a life that
The Business of Fashion:
Pernia Qureshi As stylish as she is business savvy, Pernia Qureshi has forged an enviable career. From starring in films and styling to launching her own business, she discusses being a role model, feminism and lessons learned.
is inspired, happy and full of purpose. Feminism is being talked about like never before – what does it mean for you? I think feminism is important. I think every woman has the right to education and to decide her own future. What cultural changes do you hope to see for the younger generations? I hope for them to take more interest in the performing arts, especially in a country like India, where classical dance and music has such a rich heritage.
You started your own business – what
What invaluable skills did you learn from
inspired you to do so?
your father?
How do you use style and fashion as a
I started the business almost three-and-
Not to mix emotions with work and it’s never
tool to express yourself?
a-half years ago, when I came back to
the end of the world.
What I wear is a direct reflection of what I’m
India. I was an avid online shopper and
feeling and who I am. It is not something I
realised there was a gap in the market.
You completed your education before
There was no place to shop for Indian
pursuing your acting career. Why was
designers online. I began Pernia’s Pop-Up
this important to you?
What plans do you have for your label
Shop to bridge this gap and showcase
I completed law from George Washington
in 2016?
Indian designers on a global platform. My
University. It was very important for me (and
We usually do two collections a year for the
main struggles were logistics, HR and that
my family) that I complete my education before
Pernia Qureshi label, but this year, we’re
I didn’t really have much work experience.
pursuing any career, in any field. College
planning on doing more. We’re first coming
I learnt everything on the job.
education gives you so much more than a
up with a festive ethnic collection by the end
degree and what is taught in classrooms. It
of January, followed by our spring summer
What advice would you give to young
opens you up to the real world and provides
collection in March. The Pernia Qureshi label
business women starting out today?
you with all the tools you need for any work
is also working on its first jewellery line, which
To have patience and perseverance.
that you want to pursue in the future.
will be revealed by the summer.
Interview by Susan Devaney
think about; it is a very organic process.
The key to exclusivity exclusively for you
82
s t yl e notes
Now T re n d i n g :
Names To Know From models to fashion editors, the cool-girl crowd of the world is wearing three hot new labels right now.
Christy Dawn Using only deadstock fabric, this on-the-rise indie dress designer places equal value on ethics as well as design.
Designer name: Christy Dawn Petersen Background: Her early modelling days inspired her to become a fashion designer Breakout moment: Producing the perfect party dress with collaborator (and friend) Emily Ratajkowski Major followers: Emily Ratajkowski, Patricia Manfield and many fashion editors Designer Christy Dawn Petersen.
Where to buy: L.A. (every dress is made there) MOJEH favourite: The Lottie Dress
Words by Susan Devaney
Location: Los Angeles
Yael Aflalo, co-founder of Reformation.
Reformation A college dropout from UC Berkeley and the Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising, she’s created a business that combines affordable with ethical.
Designer name: Yael Aflalo, co-founder Background: A college dropout from UC Berkeley and the Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising, she’s created a business model that combines affordable with ethical Location: Los Angeles Breakout moment: Rihanna walked in, spent $2000, and it was a name to know Major followers: Karlie Kloss, Taylor Swift, Rihanna and Emily Ratajkowski Where to buy: NYC and L.A. MOJEH favourite: Lia Skirt
Camilla Elphick Hailing from Britain, this up-and-coming footwear designer likes to artistically fuse femininity with all things playful.
Designer name: Camilla Elphick Background: She’s worked under big name designers such as Nicholas Kirkwood, Sophia Webster, Donna Karan, Paul Andrew
Yael Aflalo photographed by Celeste Sloman.
and Charlotte Olympia Location: London Breakout moment: Her graduate shoe collection for Cordwainers in London ‘So Bad It’s Good’ gained widespread attention from fashion editors Major followers: Alexa Chung, Leandra Medine, Amber Le Bon and Dree Hemingway Where to buy: Harvey Nichols in Hong Kong, Level Shoe District Dubai and Camilla Elphick Studio MOJEH favourite: Chi-Chi
Designer Camilla Elphick.
84
D e sig n er I nter vie w
Loewe ss16
At first glance, comparing the Loewe and JW Anderson labels immediately conjures up images of chalk and cheese. The former is one of Spain’s most iconic luxury brands, boasting a 170-year-old heritage; the latter one of London’s hottest labels, born in just 2008. Yet, there is one common denominator that binds the two houses together – a 31-year-old provocative RTW designer hailing from the tiny County Derry in Northern Ireland, who is shaking up the industry as we know it. In fact, Jonathan Anderson has fast become such a style prodigy that LMVH were willing to wager their cherished Loewe brand on his talent alone. And that’s definitely
Novel T h o u g h t s
something you don’t see every day. So now, every Sunday evening, J.W. Anderson travels from his edgy digs in Hackney, East London, jumps on the Eurostar to Paris, and come Monday, he’s Jonathan Anderson, creative director of Loewe. Anderson first launched his career as a menswear designer in 2008, just two years after graduating from the London College of Fashion, and was quick to be heralded as ‘one to watch’ by fashion’s elite. Since then, he has gone from strength to strength. Womenswear followed in 2010, and by 2012 he had collaborated with high-street giant Topshop on a hugely successful limited edition collection of clothing and accessories that sold out within hours of hitting shelves. A year later, Donatella Versace recruited him to design a collection for Versace’s diffusion line Versus, which also debuted to international acclaim. So, when he was cherry-picked by the big dogs at LMVH to take the creative helm at Loewe, a label that, up until then, had remained a quiet yet
As head designer of both heritage brand Loewe and his achingly-cool namesake label, Jonathan Anderson has bold ambitions for the future of fashion.
luxurious heritage brand, the question on everyone’s lips was – how would Anderson marry his young, edgy aesthetic to such a classic, well-established trademark label?
Designer Jonathan Anderson
86 Monogramming and the popular Puzzle bag are two of the designer’s stamps on the house
“I fell in love with it instantly. I just thought it was like a big, giant, top-secret project just waiting to happen. I was dying to do it.�
“I didn’t really know very much about the house to be honest,” he admits. “But when I first went to the factory, I fell in love with it instantly. I just thought it was like a big, giant, top-secret project just waiting to happen. I was dying to do it.” And today, Anderson’s ambitions for Loewe are both bold and brave, as he strives to push it forward into the modern-day arena. “My goal with the philosophy of the brand fundamentally is to restore it to the point it was at during the Fifties, Sixties and Seventies,” he continues. “I want to take it forward and make Loewe relevant today. It needs to become relevant for young people and all demographics. Playing with different technologies, playing with the elements of fashion and trying to build a language into Loewe, which it didn’t really have.” While he didn’t want to pull a Hedi Slimane and completely revamp Loewe, Anderson did go into his new role with a clear head about the direction in which he would be pulling it. While he forwent a total overhaul and name change, he started by rebranding and redesigning the logo and packaging ahead of his first Men’s Fashion Week show in Paris. He also went to work on the brand’s defining signature material – leather. “I think it’s important that leather fits into society today,” he says. “And to do that, it needs to be lighter. We’ve done very digital techniques onto leather surfaces to give them more texture, and we deal with the material in a much more organic way.” As with everything in Jonathan’s world, he
If his customers were able to predict the
adopted an all-or-nothing approach to his
brand, then he was doing something very
creative directorship at Loewe. He spent the
wrong. And that’s always been a forte of
first year familiarising himself with the brand,
Jonathan’s – recycling the old and coming up
moving the creative studio from Madrid to
with exciting new ways to move the fashion
Paris and recruiting new members, who
industry forward. “My biggest belief is that
joined him in really getting underneath the
we work in an incredible industry and I am
skin of the house. For him, it was about
lucky to work in that,” he tells us. “I feel that
moving the brand forward and taking it to
the industry has to be fueled up. If you don’t
new heights without disturbing its original
fuel it up, it will become incredibly boring and
DNA as a means to keep people interested.
that’s not why we got involved in fashion.”
88 Always one to push boundaries, Anderson’s
to create. It’s what keeps me alive and it’s
inaugural menswear debut for Loewe in June
something that I’m addicted to – creating
2014 was a collection that kept a strong
something and making something. I think it
connection to the Spanish brand’s history
is the most fascinating thing one can do.”
with his abstract use of textures, cuts and
Think raw-edged, cardigan-like ponchos,
well thought-through designs. At the same
fine-gauged knit sweaters and beautiful
time, it was a nod to the provocative ideas of
angular bags – even Pharrell Williams was
gender ambiguity that have the fashion A-list
quick to be spotted wearing Anderson’s
scrambling for the front row at his London
Meccano Pink on the cover of his then-new
Fashion Week show. “I can find inspiration
single. It referenced vintage Ibiza style, too,
from anything,” he says. “Honestly. I love
with the designer saying that he “sometimes likes to go to periods where I was never born, because I feel like you are looking at it through a different lens. You’re kind of making it up and improvising what it should be. I feel like you have to take the best of the past and bring it forward into the current demographic”. His first womenswear collection quickly followed in September 2014 at the UNESCO building in Paris, where guests took their seats around Isamu Noghuchi’s sculptural garden. A brighter, lighter and more daytime feel was the promise, with skirts slashed diagonally from the waist, and halter tops that came bound to the body and were reminiscent of the ancient Japanese art of Kinbaku. This was a collection that was all about texture, with carelessly-frayed edges and lashings of leather discovered from his time hunting through the Loewe archives. Reviews of both collections were mixed, with Anderson telling us that “it’s going to take
For ss16 the designer continued to merge manmade and natural materials at Loewe - the result is both aesthetically appealing and groundbreaking for the industry.
thoughts on the future of fashion? Apparently, and unsurprisingly, it’s going to be all about the digital and the social, with Anderson adamant that the industry needs to move forward to be able to survive. For him, it’s all about the content that’s created from each event and each fashion show, and how this is portrayed to the masses in an instant. And, with a new wave of designers heralded to take over the head honcho positions in
“I wanted to take the ‘organicness’ of the first collection and the electricity of the second to merge a conflict of materials – the manmade and the natural.”
many years to define who the Loewe woman
the coming years – we’ve already seen the
is because in my head it is completely new.
relatively unknown Demna Gvasalia take the
This doesn’t happen overnight and I think it
reins from Alexander Wang at Balenciaga and
will probably take us another five seasons to
we’re waiting with baited breath to see who
create the Loewe woman.”
will replace Phoebe Philo at Celine – does he
Today, the Loewe brand has come on strong
think this is a positive change? “I think we
in both design and pop culture. It may only
are in a period where a younger generation
be his third womenswear collection for the
is starting to appear and become slightly
label, but to say his most recent show for S/S
respected. I think that’s what’s changing
’16 (just one of the 10 he designs per year!)
here,” he tells us. “It’s about a younger
was surprising would be an understatement.
demographic moving through a system and
So much so, that Jonathan went back to
when that happens, it’s really incredible to
his experimental routes by going down the
see them coexisting in a period where social
upcycling route. Fractured mirrors, metallic
media has become so powerful.” We know
streaming, appliquéd poppers and lashings of
for a fact he’d still like to see younger people
plastic were in all in his repertoire, saying, “I
in the industry, as he reveals, “I’d like to see
wanted to take the ‘organicness’ of the first
my age bracket move up again. We need
collection and the electricity of the second to
new viewpoints. The world has changed. The
merge a conflict of materials – the manmade
way people communicate has changed…
and the natural. It had to feel a bit urban and I
it’s time for a generational shift. No-one is
thought the plastic gave it this idea perfectly.”
going to let 12-year-olds run the world, but
So, for a designer at the helm of two such
you would hope that by 30, we could start.”
differentiated brands, what are his current
We couldn’t agree more.
The Drop
From groundbreaking craftsmanship to a focus on material and technique, the future is precise, bold and determined. As we stand on the edge of a fashion revolution, rules are left wailing in the wind.
Photographed by Greg Adamski Styled by Olivia Cantillon
Jumper and skirt, HÈRMES
92
Dress and jacket, SAINT LAURENT
Jacket, waistcoat, shorts and shoes, ISABEL MARANT
94
Jumper, J.W. ANDERSON at Symphony | Dress, HOUSE OF HOLLAND at Symphony
Jacket, BEDOUIN | Dress, MARCO DE VINCENZO | Shoes, MARNI
Coat and bra, EMILIO PUCCI | Trousers, WALK OF SHAME at S*uce
98
Jacket, MIU MIU | Skirt, ALEXANDER WANG at Symphony | Shoes, SALVATORE FERRAGAMO
100
Coat, PRADA | Shoes, HÈRMES
102
Top, dress and trousers, CHANEL | Shoes, SAINT LAURENT
Hair and makeup artist: Annesofie Begtrup Model: Jagodaat MMG Models Editor: Kelly Baldwin With special thanks to Six Senses Zighy Bay, Oman
IN PARTNERSHIP WITH
CONTEMPORARY 1x1, Dubai • Ag, Tehran • Agial, Beirut • Aicon, New York • Albareh, Manama • Sabrina Amrani, Madrid • Artwin, Moscow • Athr, Jeddah • Ayyam, Dubai / Beirut • Blain|Southern, London / Berlin • Marianne Boesky, New York • Jeanne Bucher Jaeger, Paris • Carbon 12, Dubai • Carlier Gebauer, Berlin • Carroll / Fletcher, London • Marta Cervera, Madrid • Chatterjee & Lal, Mumbai • Chemould Prescott Road, Mumbai • Continua, San Gimignano / Beijing / Les Moulins / Havana • Dastan’s Basement, Tehran • East Wing, Dubai • Elmarsa, Tunis / Dubai • Espacio Valverde, Madrid • Experimenter, Kolkata • Isabelle van den Eynde, Dubai • Imane Fares, Paris • Selma Feriani, Tunis / London • Saskia Fernando, Colombo • Marie-Laure Fleisch, Rome • GAGProjects, Adelaide • Gala, Tbilisi • Taymour Grahne, New York • Green Art Gallery, Dubai • Grey Noise, Dubai • GVCC, Casablanca • Gypsum, Cairo • Leila Heller, New York / Dubai • Iragui, Moscow • Jhaveri Contemporary, Mumbai • Kalfayan, Athens / Thessaloniki • Krampf, Istanbul • Krinzinger, Vienna • Lakeeren, Mumbai • Lelong, Paris / New York • Christian Lethert, Cologne • Meem, Dubai • Victoria Miro, London • NK, Antwerp • Franco Noero, Turin • Nubuke, Accra • Gallery One, Ramallah • Ota Fine Arts, Tokyo / Singapore • Pechersky, Moscow • Project 88, Mumbai • Rampa, Istanbul • The Rooster, Vilnius • Sakshi, Mumbai • Sanatorium, Istanbul • Sarah, Muscat • Brigitte Schenk, Cologne • Sfeir-Semler, Hamburg / Beirut • SKE, Bangalore / New Delhi • Silverlens, Makati City • Daniel Templon, Paris / Brussels • The Third Line, Dubai • Travesia Cuatro, Madrid / Guadalajara • Upstream, Amsterdam • Vigo, London • X-ist, Istanbul • Yay, Baku • Zawyeh, Ramallah • Zidoun-Bossuyt, Luxembourg • Zilberman, Istanbul • Special Project: Atassi Foundation MODERN Chaouki Chamoun / Alfred Basbous (Artspace, (Circle, Nairobi) • Yahia Turki (Elmarsa, Tunis / Dubai) • Adam Henein (Karim Francis, Cairo) • Abdur Rahman Chughtai / Syed Sadequain (Grosvenor, London) • Mounirah Mosly / Ahmed Nawar (Hafez, Jeddah) • Maliheh Afnan (Lawrie Shabibi, Dubai) • Hédi Turki / Rafik El Kamel (Le Violon Bleu, Tunis) • Shakir Hassan al Said / Faiq Hassan (Meem, Dubai) • Huguette Caland / Laure Ghorayeb (Janine Rubeiz, Beirut) • Ali Akbar Sadeghi (Shirin, Tehran / New York) • Twins Seven-Seven / Rufus Ogundele (Thought Pyramid, Abuja) • Muhanna Durra / Samia Zaru (Wadi Finan, Amman) MARKER Manila, Philippines: 98B COLLABoratory, Post Gallery, Project 20, Thousandfold and Roberto Chabet artdubai.ae
Art Dubai’s 2016 campaign references the fair’s ten year anniversary. artdubai.ae/visual-identity
104
M OJEH W o man
Alicia in Wonderland On the big screen, she’s played both a robot and a war heroine, and on the red carpet, she’s fast become a style inspiration, favoured by Louis Vuitton and other forward thinking houses. We sit down with Alicia Vikander, the rising star of fashion and film.
What do you like about Nicolas Ghesquière’s work? I like the fact that he portrays other Louis Vuitton muses, such as Jennifer Connelly, Charlotte Gainsbourg and Michelle Williams, as strong and independent as well as beautiful. I’ve always admired those freethinking women and I’ve followed Nicolas’s work for a long time, both on Instagram and in magazines.
You’ve been one of the faces of Louis
The colours were faded, because she’d had it
Now that I’ve been to Louis Vuitton fashion
Vuitton for over a year now. What was your
since she was very young. I’d never seen such
shows and seen his work firsthand, I’m
reaction when they first asked you to be
a prestigious and expensive bag, a bag whose
amazed how he always makes me feel as
their muse?
history you could feel as you held it. I remember
though I’m seeing things that I’ve never seen
I was overwhelmed. I started buying fashion
sitting on the tube with what felt like a treasure
before. He’s not only daring, but seems to
magazines for the first time as a 13-year-old
and being worried that someone might steal it.
be some kind of visionary, too. I think of him
and looked in awe at all the fashion adverts – it
as a futuristic designer; if I look back at a
never occurred to me that I’d be the face of one
The house was created in 1854, over 150
show from a year earlier, he has somehow
of those brands one day. It was quite surreal
years ago. Is a sense of heritage and legacy
just captured now. It’s as though he can see
knowing I’d be part of the history of such a house.
important to you?
into the future and make perfect sense of it
Definitely. Even though I have moved away from
before anyone else has any idea of what it
Did you say yes straight away?
my home country, I have a very strong sense of
might look like.
My work as an actress is my main profession
my roots, of being Swedish. I’m very proud of
and I always thought that any commercial work
being Swedish. It’s important to me that Louis
Do you have a good relationship?
I took on would have to integrate with the
Vuitton has a considerable history; I loved the
Nicolas has a style that I just really like. He’s
acting. Louis Vuitton has always used strong,
idea that my friend’s grandmother had owned
the most down-to-earth and sweet person
adventurous women in its campaigns and is
her bag for decades and intended to pass it
as well as being a fantastic collaborator. I
known to collaborate with artistes, so yes, it
on to my friend at some point.
talked to him about film and he introduced
was a no-brainer.
me to his world of fashion, another artistic, Louis Vuitton is very much related to travel
visual form that actually isn’t too far away
The Monogram is one of the house’s
and, as an actress, travel is very much part
from filmmaking.
key emblems. Do you have any specific
of your job. Do you still enjoy it?
memories of it from your earlier years?
Oh yes. As soon as I have a few days off –
Are you a particular fan of Nicolas’s other
Yes! I did six years of ballet training with the
which happens quite rarely now – I always try
muses – Jennifer Connelly, Charlotte
Royal Swedish Ballet School in Gothenburg
to tell myself that I’m going to stay at home
Gainsbourg and Michelle Williams?
and, when I was 15, I went with three other girls
in London and not do very much. But there
Absolutely. It’s a huge honour being in the
to an audition for the company in Stockholm.
are so many places that I want to see and I’m
mix with all those women, whose careers I’ve
We stayed with my friend’s grandmother and,
addicted to Googling hotels. I like to plan the
followed. I was a bit nervous about meeting
before we set off for the auditions, she made
route I’m taking and then to be spontaneous
them at the beginning of my career, but they
sure we all had the right water bottles and a
when I actually get there. I don’t have a driver’s
were so warm and lovely that my nerves fell
picnic lunch. I brought out a carrier bag to
licence, so I have to rely on friends, who are
away. And, we were united by the fact that
put all my things in and the grandmother told
happy to drive me around. But, learning to drive
we’d all collaborated with Nicolas. Hopefully,
me to wait. She reappeared with a vintage
is definitely on my to-do list – it’s just a matter
they felt how happy I was to meet them and
Louis Vuitton bag and said I could borrow it.
of finding the time.
be part of the same extended collaboration.
106
How do you define yourself as a Louis
the Swedish Alicia for one night. You have to
I have a lot of friends in Paris, but I wouldn’t
Vuitton woman?
form a new personality with a new language. I
be content until I was as fluent in French as I
I’ve always admired women who are fearless,
don’t have the vocabulary in English that I do
am in English! Paris is so close that I’ve twice
passionate, free-spirited and strong. In my
in Swedish and I’m not as witty or quick. It can
been on the phone with a friend in Paris in the
head, it’s what the LV woman stands for and
be frustrating. Living in London means that my
morning, we’ve decided to have lunch and I’ve
it’s what I aspire to.
language improves every day, but every time I
just jumped on Eurostar, read scripts on the
go back to Sweden, I realise how much easier
way and caught the last train back.
What is your signature look? How would you
it is to express myself.
describe your style?
You mentioned training as a ballerina when
Fashion should be easy and fun. A way to
How often do you manage to return to
you were in your teens; what happened?
express your personality or the particular mood
Sweden to see family and friends?
I was injured – I had surgery on my foot and very
you’re in. I don’t know if it’s my Scandinavian
I went back for Midsummer. It was amazing. I
heavy back problems that still haunt me today
background, but I tend to prefer a simple,
haven’t been able to celebrate it for two years
– but the main issue was my commitment. As a
minimalistic sartorial canvas. I then experiment
due to work commitments. I told my agent
dancer, you have to be 150 per cent committed.
with bags, shoes and perhaps a jacket. I rather
a year ago that on the June 19, 2015, I was
It’s like being in an elite sports team. I grew
like the fact that you can easily either dress up
going to be in Sweden. I spent less than a week
jealous of my classmates’ endless passion for
or down with accessories.
in total in Sweden last year. It’s not enough,
ballet. They would turn up early to fit in an extra
but at least it’s not so far from London. And,
hour before the seven scheduled hours started
How do you pack for your many travels?
I try to bring my family to come and see me
that morning. I loved ballet, but you have to
I’ve learned that life is easier if I don’t pack
wherever I’m working.
want it that much. The toughest decision I’ve
too many clothes. When I started travelling a
made so far in my life – to become an actor
lot more for work three years ago, I was really
What do you miss most about Sweden?
instead of a dancer – took me at least a year
bad at packing. But now, I’m getting better and
Family and friends most of all. In terms of the
to make. I didn’t go to theatre school, so I see
better. I am able to just pack a pair of boots, a
country itself, I love Stockholm, but I’m very
my dance education as my artistic foundation.
pair of high heels, a pair of black pants/trousers,
used to city life because I spend so much time
Apart from the ballet training, we did a lot of
a knitted sweater, a really cool timeless coat
travelling between LA, New York and London.
improvisation and choreography.
and a few bags. I then feel like I can change
So, I love visiting the islands in Sweden with
my shoes or bag and fit into different scenarios.
their traditional red houses and the endless
You seem to have a dancer’s discipline and
supply of shell fish; when you don’t live there
you move on screen with the same grace.
it becomes more romantic.
I was certainly aware of my dance training when
When you rose to international fame three
I played a female robot in ‘Ex Machina’. Her
years ago with ‘A Royal Affair’, you said you’d like the opportunity to make more
Why did you choose London over LA as
physicality and the way she moved were really
Scandinavian movies. Do you have any
your new home?
important. My dance training is a direct tool for
plans to do so?
I don’t think I chose London over LA – I just
getting into a character, either in terms of how
I’m hoping to work with a Swedish director in
knew that London was where I wanted to live.
they move, hold themselves or talk.
the near future; it’s certainly on the cards. But,
I feel naturally at home there. I went for the
it comes down to the fact that Sweden doesn’t
first time around maybe six months before I
‘Pure’ is widely seen as your breakthrough
produce very many films because it’s a relatively
started shooting ‘Anna Karenina’ and I lived
performance. Was it a difficult part for
small country. If you live in Sweden, you can’t
with friends. Even though I was going away
you to play?
only work in film; you have to do other jobs,
on shoots all the time, I always ended up
I was truly terrified. Not only are very few
too. When I first got into acting, I started to
going back to London. It’s a bigger city than
films made in Sweden every year, but it’s very
look at how I could mix acting on the screen
Stockholm and it’s still close enough to family.
hard to find female leads in films anywhere
and the stage.
In fact, it took me two years to fall in love with
in the world. To be offered the role of such
I mostly work abroad now, I haven’t done a
the city. I love its bustling culture now, but it was
a complicated, complex 19-year-old was
Swedish film in two or three years and I would
hard to grasp its geography when I first arrived.
amazing. I knew it was my chance to show
really love to.
There are so many cities in one. It helped, I
everything. So, I gave it my all.
think, that each time I came back to work on Is it easier to act in Swedish?
or prep for a film in London, I stayed on friends’
And you were rewarded with a Shooting Star
It’s difficult to explain the difference between
couches in different parts of the city: Hackney,
award at the Berlin Film Festival.
acting in your native language and your second
London Fields, Notting Hill, Chelsea…
Ten young actors and actresses from Europe
one. I can have a proper conversation in English
are selected and you all meet up, do workshops
and I’m pretty fluent, but sometimes, I’d love
Could you imagine living in another European
together and watch each other’s films. It was
my English-speaking friends to hang out with
capital, such as Paris?
funny because I was paired up with Domhnall
Alicia Vikander shares a close relationship with Louis Vuitton’s Nicolas Ghesquière, she has fronted their recent campaigns, is often seen wearing the brand and has fast become a strong inspiration for the designer.
108
Photography and clothing courtesey of Louis Vuitton Hair stylist Damien Boissinot at Jed Root Agency Makeup artist Christelle Coquet at Calliste Agency
Gleeson and we went on to act together in
world really helps you get into a role. If you turn
the first time I talked to Alex Garland on the
‘Anna Karenina’ and then ‘Ex Machina’, and
up on set and there are 200 extras there, it is
phone; I’d read his books and lots of interviews
we are now great friends.
a bit like time travelling. All the historical films
and he’s so intelligent. And to work with Derek
I’ve done embrace very contemporary ideas;
Cianfrance on ‘The Light Between Oceans’ was
all the stories connect with audiences today.
another pinch-myself moment. I read the novel
Since ‘Pure’, you’ve done ‘A Royal Affair’,
upon which the film is set as soon as I heard
‘Testament of Youth’ and ‘Ex Machina’,
Derek was attached to the adaptation.
amongst other projects. What do you look
You mentioned Noomi Rapace. Are there
for in a script? Do you rely on intuition or is
other Swedish actors you particularly
there someone whose opinion you always
respect?
Did you enjoy working with Eddie Redmayne
seek, such as your agent?
I grew up admiring Pernilla August. Another
on ‘The Danish Girl’?
I have a very instant response to scripts. When
mentor who exists in my life is Harriet
It’s extraordinary the transformation he makes
I read Alex Garland’s script for ‘Ex Machina’,
Andersson, who did a lot of Ingmar Bergman
from man to woman. The passion he puts into
I couldn’t stop turning the pages and I was
films. She is a pure, straight forward, fearless
creating these characters is astonishing, as
completely immersed in the story. It’s quite rare,
actor – she has a style I could always engage
anyone who’s seen ‘The Theory of Everything’
but when it happens, you don’t really have to
with. And then, there’s the wonderful Rebecca
knows. There were so many occasions when I
think. You’re just sucked in. It’s as much about
Ferguson, who is also working abroad now.
came onto the set of ‘The Danish Girl’ and he just blew me away. The sensitivity that he brings
the people who are involved as the script – the filmmaker, the actors, the DOP. It’s all about
Were you a fan of Cianfrance’s film ‘Blue
to his character will touch so many hearts. It
the collaboration.
Valentine’?
certainly touched mine.
I loved that film! And also ‘The Place Beyond the Did you talk to Garland about robots as
Pines’. Derek is one of those new American film
How was Tom Hooper as a director?
‘thinking machine’? Are you a fan of sci-fi?
makers that I dreamt of working with. He has a
Tom is a proper filmmaker, who knows every
Alex and I had endless discussions about robots
very special way of working which makes the
single aspect of film making. He has such vision.
and AI. I think the film has become successful
characters on screen so real, as though you’re
He’s very emotionally intelligent. For the first
because people are urging their friends to see
actually peeking into their lives. He works with a
half of the film, it’s pretty much only Eddie and
it so they can all talk about it. My dad has a
very small crew, which allows his actors to have
I in this flat. We were shooting it on a stage in
big shelf of sci-fi books that I have glanced at
real freedom. He never says ‘action’. Several
a studio. There were lots of emotional, heavy,
and of course I loved ‘2001: A Space Odyssey’.
times, I found myself in a scene without actually
difficult scenes. Tom gives very clear directions
In fact, two months before I was sent the script
knowing that the camera was rolling. He never
and something will open up.
for ‘Ex Machina’, I said to my agent that I
says ‘cut’ either, so you do very long takes. I
watched ‘Moon’ for the second time and would
worked with Michael [Fassbender] and Rachel
You’ve been announced as Matt Damon’s
love to do a sci-fi film. It was so weird to then
[Weisz] on that film and they both really pushed
co-s tar in ‘Bourne 5’. Are you able to
get a call saying there was a script I might like.
me to get my best performance. Their impulses
discuss it?
and reactions are so fluid that you end up going
A little. I met Paul Greengrass in June and,
You learned Danish in two months ahead
in very different directions. Because I didn’t go
again, he’s another film maker that I can’t wait
of shooting ‘A Royal Affair’. Was that still
to theatre school, where you get to try things
to work with. I’m honoured. He’s such a good
easier than being a dancer?
out and fail a lot, I have had to learn to get
writer. I’m a genuine ‘Bourne’ fan, too. I told
Yes! Danish and Swedish are similar in the same
things wrong and to fail in other ways – at
Paul that when my girlfriends and I had that
way as Italian and Spanish. I’d never been to
ballet school, on set, in front of other actors.
little commune in London years ago, we had a
Denmark before my audition, so I was speaking
The great actors and directors I’ve worked
routine of watching ‘Bourne’ films on a Sunday.
English with [fellow actor] Mads Mikkelsen and
with have made me feel like I’ve been in a safe
I’ve seen them all many, many times.
[director] Nicolaj Arcel. They tried to speak very
place to take risks.
slow Danish while I smiled and nodded, but
What do you do in your spare time? How do
they saw through that! I knew and loved the
With so many films coming out this year,
you wind down?
book upon which the film was based, so I had
do you feel like you’re having a moment?
I love to cook. It’s normally quite a good sign if
some kind of head start at least. A Danish friend
I have had to pinch myself I don’t know how
I’m in a kitchen. Now I have my own place,
of my mum’s recorded every single one of my
many times over the last couple of years.
but when I was crashing on friends’ sofas, I
lines onto her iPhone and I just sat there and
To watch Julianne Moore coming out of her
was always hosting dinner parties. I can get
listened to her over and over again.
trailer in her jumpsuit when we were shooting
lost in grocery stores. For hours. Seriously!
‘Seventh Son’ together was incredible. She
Yoga is a great way for me to wind down
You have appeared in several period films,
was holding a coffee and I was almost shaking.
and I always carry a pack of cards in my
is it a genre you’re particularly drawn to?
She really took care of me on set. It’s not about
bag; it’s become a thing between me and
I’ve never chosen a film because it’s a period
passing on advice or telling me things, it’s about
my girlfriends in the last few years. I love
film. Having said that, stepping into a recreated
instilling a sense of calm. I felt equally anxious
going skiing, but I haven’t done it in years.
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Tal k ing P o i nt
The Rise of the New Avant-Garde Overblown theatrics, giant sculptural forms and conceptual complexities were once the identifiers of avant-garde fashion. But, is it the only way? We explore the new radicals, who are taking a fashion road less travelled.
Images of Daphne Guinness and Christian Dior Haute Couture spring/summer 2007 courtesy of Getty.
By Natalie Trevis
Thom Browne
112 also have incredibly sophisticated experimental brands – when I first saw Vetements, for example, the collection resonated with me, as it reminded me of an updated Nineties Margiela. I’m not sure that people initially understood the oversizing and raw edging… your eye has to re-adjust as you are looking at something completely new.” The modern avant-garde rejects much of the flounce or theatricality of years gone by, but these designers are stepping into the ring with their own version of what it means to be ‘avant’ or ahead of their times. The rebels of our future. The path of the avant-garde is long, revered and ever influential. Concept is king. Look back at Galliano’s couture extravaganzas for Christian Dior Haute Couture in the early Noughties and there’s something feverishly genius and compellingly modern in every dramatic journey from Asia to Russia to ancient Egypt. Kawakubo has questioned convention ever since presenting her very first collection for Commes des Garçons in 1981, culminating in a spring/summer 2016 collection that, in time honoured cryptic style, is a sculptural meditation on Blue Witches (or “powerful women who are misunderstood but do good in the world”), casting its emotionally charged spell over the fashion elite. “I am a fashion designer and I also work as an artist,” notes Hussein Chalayan. “Ultimately, I’m a curious person and an ideas person. My curiosity permeates everything that I do, therefore I’m inspired by the same things, whether I’m designing a collection or directing a film or creating an sculptural installation. There are recurrent themes in all my work and they all stem from the same ideas.” Ideas manifest in the garments themselves, but also in the set, the production; the performance that is the avantgarde show. “I always wanted the clothes to be Isa Arfen at matchesfashion.com
seen in an interesting setting, where part of the inspiration is reflected in a show,” notes Chalayan. “However, although I wanted my audience to have worked against me, because maybe these things
Chalayan, Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren
have detracted people from the craftsmanship
are all considered masters of the avant-garde.
of the clothes, which has always been the most
For decades, these designers have combined
important thing for me.”
artistry, wit and craftsmanship with breathtaking
Showmanship in today’s climate of studied
spectacle. But, fashion continues on its quest
nonchalance is rarely a concern for the current
for the new. Taking up the experimental mantle
crop of fashion renegades, but a laser sharp focus
is a generation of designers without boundaries,
on the finer details is always evident. Rigorous
self-consciousness or obligation: Simon Porte
technique is housed in the rough; in frayed denim
Jacquemus, Thomas Tait, Jonathan Anderson,
and gargantuan bomber jackets, back-zip dresses
Demna Gvasalia of Vetements (a Maison Margiela
that open to reveal themselves as a single piece of
alumnus) and London duo Marta Marques and
fabric and deconstruction that is never precocious.
Paulo Almeida of Marques’Almeida, who scooped
“The industry in general seems more open to
up the latest LVMH prize, to name but a few. “The
experimental designers, who push boundaries
more emerging designers are the ones who aren’t
and challenge the notion of what is desirable now,”
afraid to experiment as they find their audience and
says Serafina Sama, creative director of Isa Arfen.
discover their brand DNA,” says buying director
“The appointment of Demna Gvasalia of Vetements
at matchesfashion.com, Natalie Kingham. “You
as new creative director of Balenciaga is the
images of Daphne Guinness and Christian Dior Haute Couture s/s07 courtesy of Getty.
a full cultural experience, sometimes this has Rei Kawakubo, Martin Margiela, Hussein
Couture lover Daphne Guinness
perfect example. And Jonathan Anderson’s work at Loewe and for his own label is very inspiring. Social media has probably played a crucial role in this phenomenon. A few years ago, when magazines and advertising campaigns were the only channels of communication for fashion brands, it would have been much more difficult for experimental designers to gain such a vast following in such a short time.” It’s an aesthetic devoid of the obvious markers of excess (crystals, shimmer, animal skins) in favour of artful construction. It’s a case of design beating embellishment. “I love trying to find ways to make volumes look less literal and more abstract. I try to concentrate on volumes rather than on surface decoration and embellishment,” says Sama. “Taking away superfluous elements and making a garment asymmetrical and slightly deconstructed allows me to give a suggestion of a particular mood or feeling without making any reference too literal.” Tapping into an underground zeitgeist inspired by our endless veneration of youth culture, what’s new and shocking to the mainstream is often categorised as avant-garde, when perhaps it is merely the emergence of a fresh aesthetic that challenges us. “I think that in comparison to a lot of what’s going on right now in fashion, not so avantgarde things might look avant-garde,” Thomas Tait told us in an interview in MOJEH Issue 34. ‘Avantgarde’, ‘street’, ‘alternative’ – whether accurate or not, labels offer a comfort and clarity that can rationalise the unfamiliar. “In many cases, perhaps because my design process is similar to that of an artist and I can cross over amongst different Christian Dior Haute Couture spring/summer 2007
114
Jonathan Anderson
disciplines, the press over the years have liked to pigeon-hole my collections as being avant-garde,” says Chalayan. “But actually, most of our clothes are quite classic and completely wearable. In fact, most of my time is spent on the commercial side of the collection. With my team I am constantly working on perfecting fit and finishes. Part of the joy of being an independent company is that I design and have a hand on and actually touch every item of clothing we put our name on, which I think is something valuable and unique in this market in which designers are creative directors heading up large design teams and churning out multiple collections per season.” It is this artisanal, personal quality, the idea of purchasing a little slice of individualism, that is increasingly encouraging customers to step outside of their fashion comfort zones. These designers offer membership to a club of likeminded revolutionaries, who operate at an artistic level largely beyond the blunt service of commerce, blurring genders, genres and even the nature of a garment. All you have to do is join. “I’ve been watching the progression of Jacquemus and Craig Green over the last few seasons,” says Gracia Ventus of The Rosenrot, a fashion fanatic and wearer of all things experimental. “The former seems to be heavily inspired by Comme des Garçons’ works, in a polished, more palatable way. Craig Green makes wonderful garments that transcend the east vs. west fashion dialogue. There’s also Faustine Steinmetz who makes beautiful denim garments, which I love, despite my hate for denim in general. Her works have Marques’Almeida
paved the way for the denim manipulations we are seeing today, like that of Marques’Almeida. In terms of leather, Martina Spetlova is still ahead of the pack, and deserves more recognition for her research.” Insiders like Daphne Guinness, the late Isabella Blow, Anna Della Russo, Lady Gaga and newcomers such as Ventus are paid up members of the vanguard, reveling in the notoriety this style of dressing entails, but also, at its heart, with a deep appreciation for the skill, technique and artistic meaning in every piece. “These are brands that play with different volumes, textures and fabrics to create something unique and artistic,” explains Kingham. “A brand like Marques’Almeida, which specialises in soft twill denim, silks and brocade with raw edges: They have become known for experimenting with different layers, pleats and shapes, which our customers love as much as we do. They respond well to brands that have a point of difference, like Ellery, Isa Arfen, Vita Kin, Vetements, Joshua Sanders and Wales Bonner.” Wearing them becomes a personal statement of intent. “When you see avant-garde fashion in a museum, you say loudly, ‘Who would wear that?’ It elicits a real and visceral response because of the medium,” says Ventus. “I don’t like all forms of avant-garde designs, but the designers whose work appeals to me happen to fall into that category. They tend to be crafty material manipulators, who can challenge my view of beauty and gender norms.” The downside of a penchant for the eclectic? “It’s not cheap,” remarks Ventus wryly. Building a loyal tribe of customers is all about being mindful of finding a consumer with a similar taste level, according to Kingham, but there are unavoidable commercial factors at play, too, particularly for those designers appealing to a niche following. “I think all young designers face similar struggles,” notes Sama, “having to meet
Thomas Tait
production deadlines to deliver orders on time, managing cash flow, keeping prices reasonable without compromising on quality, and a lot of
and established brands. Not only do we advise
multitasking for very small teams.”
them on a practical level, such as range planning
“I think there’s a huge amount of cheerleading that
and production, but we support them editorially.”
happens in the industry, where they take young
Neither anti-fashion nor anti-luxury, this crop of
people and they celebrate them and advertise
new labels is changing the way we view fashion.
them in the media and write a lot of articles about
“Avant-garde designers have been and always
them, but very few people are asking questions
will be the key influence on the industry,” notes
about the business: How it actually works and
Ventus. “That’s why they were called avant-
what it means to them on a daily basis and how
garde,” she says, citing Christian Dior and
they might struggle,” Tait cautions. Between the
Commes des Garçons as pioneers. “Being ahead
LVMH prize, the International Woolmark prize,
of their time, they were rejected at first then
NEWGEN and CFDA support, there are glimmers
embraced by the wider population, who would
of financial hope on the radar of the lucky few.
hardly know of the provenance of prevailing
Real stability, however, comes from securing
trends.” History has a habit of repeating itself.
key retail partners and independent long term
The iconoclastic delirium of the avant-garde of
financing. “We work closely with a lot of emerging
the past few decades may be a distant memory,
designers,” says Kingham,“supporting them from
but in its place comes something that offers a
the early days to ensure they grow into successful
beautifully subversive alternative.
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D e sig n er I nter vie w
Designer Josep Font working with seamstresses for Delpozo’s s/s16 collection.
The Art of Delpozo After gaining international acclaim in recent years, we speak with Delpozo’s creative director, Josep Font, about why fashion’s fusion with art is all about house heritage and contemporary couture. By Susan Devaney
I jumped out of the iconic yellow cab and
float through the air and consume. Models
straight into a pile of densely packed ice-
moved with a slow, measured and reverential
white snow. It whizzed by, and I fixed my
gait. Controlled shapes of architectural-style
sights on the nearest door. An uncontrollable
sculptures in a vibrant palette wafted passed
cold wind shot into my face as I dashed.
me. It was my first real encounter with the
From embellished beanies and boldly
art of Delpozo.
coloured gloves to layered pink powdered
“New York is the window to the world, it
coats, the unwanted sign of winter was
fits with the concept of Delpozo as it’s a
everywhere in New York City in February last
modern and young city,” says Font. “When I
year. I meandered with the chattering crowd
was appointed creative director, we wanted
through skyscraper-high glass doors and out
to make a fresh start for the brand, and
of the chill. Like never-ending beanstalks,
we felt that New York was the place to do
trees from an alternative universe climbed
it.” How do you inject a dose of youth into
high into the space – with misshapen leaves
a four-decades-old luxury prêt-à-couture
that claimed their place perfectly.
fashion label? It’s been a crucial component
An all white washout engulfed us.
as he’s crafted the label’s renaissance in
With the flick of a switch, the hectic hustling
recent years. The word heritage has been
halted. With ease, music began to sound,
on repeat as eager designers take the helm
of historic houses – from Hedi Slimane at Saint Laurent and Raf Simons at Christian Dior to Alexander Wang at Balenciaga – it’s a growing buzzword. Founded in 1974 as Del Pozo, the brand sprung to life as a boutique in Madrid. The original owner, Jesus del Pozo, started off by producing his own designs: Firstly for menswear, then finding considerably more success with womenswear, and branching out to bridal and fragrances. His critical acclaim founded in Spain was never emulated outside his native country. After his death in 2011, the label was purchased by Perfumes & Diseño SA in 2012 – who hired Font to step in, rebrand and attract the young ones. After fighting for a position on the New Yo r k
Fashion
We e k
schedule,
Font
had inter national acclaim in his sight. Barcelona-born, he perhaps understands the label’s history better than most, but it wasn’t without its difficulties. “It was very challenging for me,” he says reflecting on the beginning of his tenure. “My goal was to start a new chapter for the brand with a new language, with a fresh and modern vision for the house, while I respected its legacy. Delpozo was a renowned fashion house in Spain with over 40 years of history, and we wanted to preserve it as we incorporated new symbols as well.” This fusion has helped to heighten interest in the brand. It was only a mere five seasons ago that the fashion editors were asking: ‘Who
A bold colour palette was used throughout his designs.
are Delpozo?’ It’s the sculptural rigour of his designs that has formed the cornerstone of the label’s
a busy sartorial crowd. It has the artistic
newfound vision. Font’s original training as
flair of a Spanish painter merged with the
an architect at the Polytechnic University
uncompromising unique vision of Antoni
of Catalonia explains this. From graphic
Gaudí. “I think of fashion as art, it’s my work
shapes and streamlined proportions to
and lifestyle; it’s the way I express my ideas
rigid silhouettes (with a dose of fairytale
and thoughts, my creative vision,” explains
frothiness), it’s evident across all aspects of
Font. “Fashion is how people channel their
his work, and he agrees: “Almost everything,”
personality and communicates who they
says Font. “Thanks to my studies, I gained
are and what they stand for. They are very
an insight in proportion, shape and volume,
closely related.” Just like fashion needs art,
which I apply continuously throughout my
the label couldn’t live without its heritage
designs. It is the idea of a whole, and even
and its new artistic vision.
though each piece has to have its own
For spring 16, his mind looked to “earthy
balance on its own, the full collection has
women with bohemian ease”, such as
to be proportioned. I feel that is a way of
Federico García Lorca’s ‘Gypsy Ballads’
looking at fashion, season after season that
and Emilie Flöge. A ripple of bohemia and
is through my architect background.” This is
folklore took form throughout the collection
exactly what makes Delpozo stand out from
– but not in the way one might expect.
118
techniques and combine them with fresh designs, to create timeless collections for a feminine yet strong woman,” he says. Sadly, Font’s mother never got to see him fulfil his dream, but her influence is evident in his work. “In my opinion, Delpozo has entered a niche that wasn’t covered by other houses, as we show a balance between elaborate techniques taken from couture with contemporary designs of both daywear and evening.” Making the switch from architecture to fashion was something in which Font approached with caution. Unsure of what his family would say he secretly took part in the Concours International des Jeunes Créateurs de Mode (a 1984 fashion award in Paris) and won. After his uncle discovered the announcement in the newspaper his decision soon became common knowledge to the rest of his family. Looking back on the transition now, Font says: “I decided to train in architecture, as it was a more formal and traditional study. However, when I switched towards fashion my family was very supportive.” After graduation, Font began designing under his own label to international success. In 2007, he was invited to show during the Paris Haute Couture Week schedule, a rare opportunity and one that he continued to capitalise on for four seasons. He’s never shied away from admitting the decision to work for Delpozo was one that took considerable time to
Delpozo runway for s/s16.
decide upon. “When the group approached me I was in China, I was coming back to The fluidity often associated with bohemia
Spain but I didn’t want to stay there, I was
was replaced with rigid structures in a
thinking of going to Paris. They insisted I
larger-than-life approach. Fringe edged
come and see the base in Madrid, but I
many a design with tailored precision and
was a bit reticent because Spain doesn’t
delicate Spanish style ruffles adorned a
have the sort of fashion culture that you’d
couple of creations with simplicity. Many
find in London or Paris. But then, I finally
designers in the past have used the concept
gave in and went to visit. The project was
of bohemia in its literal form, but Font
very interesting – it was the re-launch of
carefully selected elements associated
the brand – and when I came on board
with ease and added refined elegance.
they gave me total freedom to bring my
Seventies’ sugary pastels were played with,
ideas of modernity into couture,” he told
but not too much, as he covered them with
the Telegraph UK newspaper last year.
white tumbling tulle – or intricately detailed
With so many designers currently voicing
ball gowns. Having previously spoken of
their disdain toward the speed of today’s
the great influence his mother’s love for
industry, I press him on whether or not he’s
couture had on him as child, one can see
given enough time for creativity. “Absolutely.
why he creates such designs for the women
My starting point for each season has
of today. “I try to reclaim the artisanal
always taken by a recent exhibition I visited,
A collection of images and extracts from Delpozo’s moodboard backstage.
a trip I took, a book I’ve read, or anything
knows what goals he wants to achieve this
that sparks my interest. Several ideas start
year. With all production based in Spain,
circling in my mind and I start taking a closer
Font knows craftsmanship is part of the
look at the elements that shape these ideas.
brand’s heritage, but he injects his modern
That said, after each season, I sit down
vision without hesitation: “As for 2016, we’re
with the sales team to see how the buyers
going to open a new Delpozo boutique in
have reacted, where the customers have
London (on Sloane Street) this spring, which
gravitated to, and I take this feedback to
is a very important step for the team. We
work on my next collection,” he says. With
are also preparing our first resort collection
such a modern approach, it is not surprising
(we presented pre-fall16 in December).”
that success is following his footsteps.
But – what about a future contemporary
And the fashion elite and celebrity interest
collaboration? “I would like to collaborate
continues to heighten too: “Julianne Moore,
with every artist who has inspired any of my
Cate Blanchett and Keira Knightley have
collections; it would be a pleasure to share
already worn Delpozo and we really love
our ideas and work on a special project. For
how they look. I was delighted to hear they
one of my past collections, I would love to
were pulling options from us,” says Font.
work with Russian painter Andrey Remnev,”
With his gaze firmly fixed on the future, he
he says. And that’s the art of Delpozo.
120
EVENING TRIBE
se a s o n al s ty le
Alberta Ferretti
Turn to the mesmerising powers of tribal techniques for evening. Dresses hemmed in exotic plumes and beaded accessories, display the forgotten techniques of ancient cultures.
3 1
2 5 4 7 8
6
1. CHRISTIAN DIOR | 2. PAULA CADEMATORI | 3. TIBI @bysymphony.com | 4. VALENTINO | 5. CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN | 6. TEMPERLEY | 7. PETER PILOTTO @ stylebop.com | 8. SCHIAPARELLI
Slumber Days
122
AQUILANO RIMONDI
Embrace the slinky softness of nightwear-inspired pieces, from sheer skirts to billowy kaftan dresses. As daywear turns to sundown, for inspiration evoke soft glamour with polished accessories.
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GUCCI
Reach for those oversized glasses and don your high-waisted trousers with pride. The new wave of fashion is for the knowledgably adventurous. From block heels to kitsch bags, anything goes.
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S t yl e I ns ider s
MOJEH turning five is cause for celebration, but we aren’t the only ones marking a milestone this year. We speak with six inspiring influencers from the fields of fashion, business and the arts, for whom 2011 was a breakout year.
Adelya Bakhtiyarova Founder and designer at Adelya Jewellery Adelya Jewellery launched its first five collections in 2011. It was a very successful year for us, with the brand showcasing the collections in Kazakhstan, Moscow, Dubai and London. We’d gained a wide international clientele rather fast, and the following year we were invited to create a collection for an equestrian event held in Abu Dhabi and Europe, which was a stepping stone for a successful start in the region. The last five years have brought many positive changes: We’ve been retailing with Harvey Nichols Dubai, and are now stocked in S*uce Rocks for the fine jewellery and S*uce for the fashion accessories line. I have the same vision for the brand as I had initially, but of course, with the added experience in the field and exposure. I wanted to create a concept around designing for friends, to have a brand that would cater to any taste or style. It’s evolved so much further now – we still create bespoke pieces for our clients, but the brand has expanded organically and now carries lines that are sought after by women of all ages. Last year, we had a very successful collaboration with Robert Wan for Harvey Nichols for the Bounded Collection, a collection of handcuffs with pearls, which sold out pretty much immediately. MOJEH magazine for me personally is a statement of feminine elegance; it’s a compilation of chic, trendy and luxurious fashion. The high jewellery line of Adelya is a reflection of this kind of lifestyle too. The pieces we create are bespoke, and I try to keep it that way with most of the collections; it makes for an intimate connection between the client and the piece of jewellery.
Interviews by Natalie Trevis
Years Later
Adelya Bakhtiyarova, as featured in MOJEH Jewellery & Watches Issue 1
Firras Alwahabi Founder of Faux Consultancy and supporter of local design talent I set up the company in 2011 with two or three clients lined up – I was working from wherever, from the client’s offices, from The Pavilion, from my house – and I had built a network already, quite seamlessly. At the beginning, I think the whole thought process was that if we don’t support each other, no one is going to support us. When I launched Faux, we weren’t meant to be doing PR, we were meant to be a consulting company that guided the designers to other third parties to work with. But then, I saw that there was no one here that really took these designers seriously, there were no sales platforms here, no distribution agencies for young talent. So I thought, let me combine everything. When we started, it was just me – and now, we’re 11 people in a space in d3. I feel like I have designers relying on us (and the team relying on me). We’re very emotionally close to our clients, we jump in there and I think that is what makes us work. They’re passionate, we’re passionate, and we’ve been able to make other people around us passionate about our vision. For me, last season in Paris – when we presented the first Middle Eastern showroom with 14 designers – was a big, big milestone not just for our company but for the region. In five years, we’ve gone from a non-existent industry, a non-existent voice, to quite a loud presence and I’m hoping that it continues like that: We want to push through and continue growing.
Razane Jammal Actress and Chanel darling In 2011, my first feature film, Carlos, directed by Olivier Assayas and starring Edgar Ramirez, won at the Golden Globes for the Best Miniseries or Motion Picture Made for Television. I went to Los Angeles and that’s when I was cast for the movie Djinn, which is when I moved to the UAE for filming. After that, I worked on a project called Flying Blind. It was a great year because of the Golden Globes, which was great exposure for me – working on Djinn with Tobe Hooper, who is a very well known American director, and meeting amazing people from the cast, who are still my friends today. I think that was one of the first years in which I started really stepping properly into my industry. Getting acquainted with a new culture and new people in Dubai had been my biggest challenge so far at that time, being in a lead role and having to carry a film. It impacted me a lot: I felt like I grew a hundred years with that experience. I have a very clear sense of direction about where I want to be. I have a great team around me, so I guess these are things that happen little by little. The more time passes, the more you establish yourself, just like any other job. The most important aspect to any project for me is the challenge presented to me as an actress and my ability to live up to the part. I’m focused on Razane Jammal, as featured in MOJEH Issue 25
the present, always ameliorating my skills and continuously working on my craft. I can’t create opportunities, but I can make sure that I’m ready when they arise. I’m growing constantly.
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Razan Alazzouni Designer and founder of fashion label Razan Alazzouni In 2011 we gained international recognition when we dressed our first Hollywood celebrity: AnnaSophia Rob for the Film Independent Spirits awards. She was our first placement and it was very exciting. We later dressed Emma Roberts, Giuliana Rancic and Kendall and Kylie Jenner. Recently we dressed Elizabeth Banks for a Hunger Games premiere and Maisie Williams from Game of Thrones at the SAG Awards in January. It’s an honour that such talented women choose to wear our brand at their special events. Being chosen by Vogue Italia to take part in the Vogue Dubai Fashion Experience was another highlight of the last five years and of course showcasing our collections during London fashion week. The brand has changed in so many ways. We started with just one line - ready-to-wear Razan Alazzouni - and now we have three clothing lines and an accessories line. I feel like you can actually see how the brand is evolving from one collection to the next. The embroidery and the cuts have become more sophisticated and a little more modern. It’s very rewarding especially since I believe that we are our own greatest competition. We’ve learned so much in the process, like the difference in the demands of our different markets. I think I’ve leant how to use my time in the most beneficial way. As for the label, we’ve changed the logo, the brand image, created a new website and our studio is now under construction. It’s been a crazy few years but honestly so much fun. I work with amazing people and have such talented partners.
Yasmin Atassi Director of Green Art Gallery in Dubai The year 2011 was when we first moved to Al Serkal and had our first show here. We re-launched the gallery with a new programme and new image. The gallery’s history in Dubai dates back to 1995 – it was in a really cute villa in Jumeirah next to the zoo – but when I took over the gallery in late 2009, I really felt that we wanted to grow. I wanted to focus more on contemporary art and that space had its limitations. At that time, Al Serkal was just starting out, there was probably just Ayyam Gallery and Carbon 12, and I was really interested. The rents were low and they were friends, so we thought it would be better to be close to each other in Dubai. Al Serkal has grown so much since then. When we moved there nobody knew about it and a lot of our clientele didn’t understand why we would move to the industrial zone of the city. Looking back, we did a lot of our first shows with our artists in Al Serkal, like the first show with Turkish artist Hale Tenger. We also got confirmation that we were to participate in Art Basel ‘Statements’ in 2012. That was, for me, quite a highlight, because we were the first gallery from the Gulf to be accepted into that prestigious fair. I’m very proud of how the gallery has evolved. Our growth is organic and I like to keep it that way, I think it’s more interesting. I trust my instincts. Our older artists have stayed with us, which for a gallery is very important, and the audience has matured, which also helps us push our programme even further. For example, our current show is a group curated show, which is a bit more on the conceptual side and wouldn’t have been possible five years ago.
Yasmin Atassi, as featured in MOJEH Issue 25
Arwa Abdelhadi and Basma Ghazaleh, as featured in MOJEH Issue 1
Arwa Abdelhadi and Basma Ghazaleh Designers and founders of fashion label KAGE First, a big congratulations on MOJEH’s fifth birthday! It most definitely was a big year for KAGE too: 2011 was the year we opened our atelier. That was a very special moment for us personally and professionally, as we worked so hard to introduce the brand since our launch in 2009. To open the atelier was a great stepping stone for the brand. It was a great honour to be interviewed for MOJEH’s very first issue; we still keep a copy of this issue as it’s one of our favourite features. It was a fun and natural shoot, which really reflects the KAGE brand and it was great to have the MOJEH team and KAGE team work alongside one another. The brand has definitely grown in the last five years – from participating at runway shows at Fashion Forward Dubai to having the brand stocked in incredible stores across the GCC – and we’ve been overwhelmed by the continuous support of our customers. Personally, the KAGE journey has been a great learning curve. It’s not easy to build a brand and it’s definitely a challenge to grow one. You have good days and bad days like every business. With every season you face challenges and every day is a new adventure, which is the best part of it. We wish for another great five years. We’re now looking to expand the brand into the international markets, which is a new exciting chapter for KAGE. We recently showcased the collection at a pop-up in an art gallery in Notting Hill, London. We have a few exciting plans for the years ahead, so watch this space!
“With every season you face challenges and every day is a new adventure, which is the best part of it.” Basma Ghazaleh
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M OJEH C el eb r at e s
A World away By Natalie Trevis
A New York Minute, photographed by Romanleo, MOJEH Issue 5
Where would you like to go today? As we traverse the globe for work and play, our travel plans not only feed our souls, but also inspire our wardrobes and our worldview. We are the fashion neo-nomads.
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safari-toned slip dresses have us heading bravely
and wide in search of ever more dramatic locations
into blistering desert dunes, while Kenzo’s carefree
in which to set our fashion stories. From New York
summer vibes, all handkerchief tops in the crisp
to Paris, Los Angeles to Venice, we’ve journeyed the
white and blue of mountainous Mediterranean
globe to create inspiring new images each month.
villages, speak of the Portofino escape envisaged by
Travel has long held a mystical fascination: The
Carol Lim and Humberto Leon. As visually arresting
promise of new vistas, new experiences and chance
as the results may be, does cultural inspiration
encounters that take us beyond our everyday lives.
occasionally overstep the mark into appropriation?
It’s the small things, like a scent, a warm breeze or
“It doesn’t always come across in the right way,”
the sight of a tiny cowry shell on a necklace that
cautions Choy. “If you look back at DSquared2’s
have the power to transport us back to our travels
autumn/winter 2015 collection, they received a lot
in an instant. It’s no wonder then that designers
of negative press and flak for their ‘Canadian Indian
are endlessly drawn to this sense of wanderlust
Tribal’ inspired collection, but I don’t think they
to bring the four corners of the globe together on
meant to offend anyone. The collection was actually
the runway. From exotic embellishments to tribal
quite beautiful, but maybe it was a bit too literal in
homage, fashion is our instant teleporter to remote
its interpretation. On the flipside, a lot of collections
lands, urging us towards Kerouac-ian abandon.
people condemn as cultural appropriation are
“It’s quite obvious that designers have been more
intended to honour, and maybe with a few tweaks
inspired by other cultures than ever before,” says
could actually achieve that goal. Personally, I’m
stylist and fashion writer, Jennifer Choy. “Now that
happy to see designers taking an interest in a
travel is so accessible, designers are really utilising
culture that might be entirely foreign to them.”
what they see around the world as inspiration for their collections.” And not just for inspiration, but on a functional level, too. “Designers are definitely creating pieces that are more practical than ever before,” explains Holly Russell, senior buyer at net-a-porter. “They know that their customers are busy, on the go and travel a lot, and therefore are designing products that reflect this lifestyle.” Valentino fused Italian traditions with the tribal treatments of the Maasai of Kenya for spring/ summer 2016, culminating in a quasi-spiritual campaign shot by Steve McCurry in the Amboseli National Park. “We think every person coming here is an individual,” said Maria Grazia Chiuri of the many thousands of refugees making the treacherous journey into Italy, “and we can show that we can improve ourselves by understanding other cultures.” “The message,” adds Pierpaolo Piccioli, “is tolerance. And the beauty that comes out of crosscultural expression.” Akris brought us the world in a single collection, taking us to the Japanese island of Naoshima, The Forest of Music in Budapest and London’s Serpentine Gallery, courtesy of fabrics created with Japanese architect Sou Fujimoto. Peter Copping offered postcards from Spain in a lavish collection of matador red gowns and dashes of flamenco sensibilities. Meanwhile, Alberta Ferretti’s
Italy
UAE
The Angel of Circeo, photographed by Federico De Angelis, MOJEH Issue 6 Shifting Sands, photographed by Marco Cella, MOJEH Issue 31 Fashion In Full Bloom, photographed by Amber Gray, MOJEH Issue 26
San francisco
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Travel has long held a mystical fascination: the promise of new vistas, new experiences and chance encounters that take us beyond our every day lives.
Left: Pretty Little Things, photographed by Amber Gray, MOJEH Issue 22 Top: Affairs of the Estate, photographed by Federico De Angelis, MOJEH Issue 4
France
netherlands
France
L.A.
Right: Making Tracks, photographed by Julien Vallon, MOJEH Issue 30 Bottom: New Lands, photographed by Pieter Henket, MOJEH Issue 24
“Our global shoppers are constantly travelling and accustomed to different climates all year round. This is reflected in what they’re purchasing throughout the year.” Holly Russell
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venice
Top: In Another Life, photographed by Riccardo Vimercati, MOJEH Issue 16 Left: The Lion and the Lamb, photographed by Alice Rosati, MOJEH Issue 17 Right: It’s A Woman’s World, photographed by Federico De Angelis, MOJEH Issue 4
New york
While the collections may offer a virtual tour of
that are comfortable and have a bit of stretch are a
the continents, our real life expeditions demand a
must; a pair of flat shoes in a neutral tone is essential
wardrobe that combines practicality with flair, and
(I love Oxfords. I think they can be dressed up or
versatility with style. Regardless of the season, we
down and are very stylish); and a wrinkle free t-shirt
are just as likely to reach for the Burberry trench for a
that errs on the dressy side (an item you can dress
jaunt to Prague as we are a Pucci kaftan for a treasure
up with a pencil skirt or wear casually with jeans). I
hunting trip to Marrakech. “Our global shoppers are
could probably travel without complaint for a year
constantly travelling and accustomed to different
with just these three items if you gave me multiples
climates all year round,” notes Russell. “This is
of each,” she notes.
reflected in what they’re purchasing throughout
For Russell, a cashmere knit, white sneakers and
the year. Whilst the runway sets the fashion trends,
a variety of shirtdresses are the ultimate in travel
the resort and pre-fall collections are so important
wear. “The Row is my go-to for cashmere knits. They
because they cover off the trans-seasonal periods
are so beautifully made and will last you a lifetime.
that are so relevant to our customers.” With so much
I also love styles from The Elder Statesman and
choice, there’s skill in well-edited, multi-purpose
Equipment; opt for black or grey, which will go with
packing, because let’s face it, there’s nothing chic
anything from jeans to cropped pants. Shirtdresses
about an overflowing suitcase at baggage reclaim.
are super comfortable, flattering and versatile –
“Versatility is key when it comes to packing,” says
you can throw them on with a belt, trainers or flat
Choy. “You can’t bring 20 suitcases along, so you
gladiator sandals for the day or dress them up with
have to make sure you pack things that can work
heels for the evening. You can buy multiple styles
in multiple scenarios. I think a great pair of jeans
for your summer wardrobe.” With focused packing like this, we have the sartorial aspects of travel covered, but the juggling of our busy lives barely pauses, which is why creating memories to treasure
paris
(along with Insta-worthy moments in the process) on an adventure-bound journey is just as precious as the enforced time for reflection. Getting out of our usual environment means getting out of our routine and sparks ideas, resolutions and, often, change. Coming back with a newfound love of a language, a new skill or, better yet, a new friend is more life affirming than any suntan or market trinket. “I think celebrities probably epitomise the global travelling lifestyle most,” says Choy. “They’re always in and out of different countries and it’s hard to imagine how they cope with such a jet setting lifestyle.” As we reflect on MOJEH shoots gone by and our own private voyages, moved by soaring mountains and blue skies, we feel the restless curiosity that has us hooked on planning our next trip. “[I] encourage you to spend some time on the road, too,” writes Gloria Steinem in her memoir of a lifetime of wandering, My Life on The Road. “By that, I mean travelling – or even living for a few days where you are – in an onthe-road state of mind, not seeking out the familiar, but staying open to whatever comes along. It can begin the moment you leave your door.” Catch a train, book a trip, board a plane: It’s up to us where we go, the beauty lies in the journey.
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Fa sh i o n TRENDS
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1. CHLOÉ | 2. HOUSE OF HOLLAND | 3. BCBG MAX AZRIA | 4. ROBERTO CAVALLI | 5. MISSONI
CARNIVAL SPIRIT Get in the mood for spring’s festivities with a free-spirited take on pleated chiffons offering movement in easy silhouettes and cheerful styles.
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THE BLOOMSBURY BUNCH Alessandro Michele’s romantic aristo-English take on Gucci has been a trailblazing trend also spotted at Miu Miu and Maison Margiela for the high necks and babydoll silhouettes.
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LESSONS IN LATIN Spice up for spring with a touch South American flair in a burst of flamenco-ready flaming colours and oodles of sensuality, taking cues from lace-tastic Oscar De La Renta and the floral flamboyance of Dolce & Gabbana.
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AT EASE, SOLDIER The softer versions of military tones on the runways come clad in shiny silks, traditional woollens and patent leathers in a plethora of camouflage hues.
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ROMANTIC RUFFLES Designers drew on romantic notions of Victoriana, rendering lace, tulle and embroidery in chaste silhouettes with a relaxed outlook.
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1. ALEXANDER MCQUEEN | 2. ANNA SUI | 3. ELIE SAAB | 4. FENDI | 5. GUCCI | 6. ERDEM | 7. PHILOSOPHY | 8. PREEN | 9. GILES | 10. ROBERTO CAVALLI | 11. SHIATZY CHEN | 12. VALENTINO
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1. HERVÉ LÉGER | 2. CHANEL | 3. CÉLINE | 4. ISABEL MARANT | 5. MSGM
Skirting around Spotted on the streets of every fashion week are it-girls rocking the latest in layering – dresses and skirts over pants; a look championed by Chanel and MSGM.
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The new WHITE SHIRT The classic white shirt is getting an overdue upgrade, making an array of fashion statements from structured tops at 3.1 Philip Lim to the creative asymmetries of Dior.
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THE SLIT SECOND Give a thigh slit a sexy, modern edge with a layered jacket bested by Altuzarra or long t-shirt akin to Sonia Rykiel’s spring belles.
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tie the knot A simple knot is key to a figure-flattering silhouette. From Alexis Mabille’s oversized bow-tied tops to Ashish’s paperwaist knotted trousers, the clever knot is the only summer tweak you need to know.
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BACK TO BOUDOIR Supple silks, indulgent lace and lots of skin — these spell the lingerie-inspired trend of the season in a bevy of slinky slip dresses and sheer nightshirts.
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1. BALENCIAGA | 2. ALEXANDER WANG | 3. CALVIN KLEIN | 4. CHLOÉ | 5. GIVENCHY | 6. CÉLINE | 7. NARCISO RODRIGUEZ | 8. RALPH LAUREN | 9. SONIA RYKIEL | 10. DOLCE&GABBANA | 11. ROCHAS | 12. THAKOON
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1. DIOR | 2. J.W. ANDERSON | 3. MICHAEL KORS | 4. CÉLINE | 5. ROKSANDA ILINCIC
BALLOON SLEEVES Spring’s motto is to go big or go home. Pump up the volume of puff shoulders for a dramatic look and pair with slender separates.
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THE X FACTOR Be it a cross over cut-out top in the vein of Balmain or literal bold cross designs of Simone Rocha, join the march of the avant-garde risk-takers engaging in the trendy cross.
Compiled by Aishwarya Tyagi.
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1. EMILIO PUCCI | 2. 1205 | 3. ROLAND MOURET | 4. barbara bui | 5. BALMAIN | 6. CUSHNIE ET OCHS | 7. ALVARNO | 8. PAUL SMITH
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SERENE SPLENDOUR Quickly emerging as the summer’s coolest palette, the sweetness and elegance of lilac tones are making their way into a variety of ruffled dresses in floaty chiffon silhouettes.
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1. CAROLINA HERRERA | 2. CUSHNIE ET OCHS | 3. EMPORIO ARMANI | 4. CHANEL | 5. ROBERTO CAVALLI | 6. VETEMENTS | 7. JENNY PACKHAM | 8. MIU MIU | 9. PAUL & JOE | 10. LOEWE | 11. NAEEM KHAN | 12. NINA RICCI
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1. DRIES VAN NOTEN | 2. mary katrantzou | 3. VICTORIA BECKHAM | 4. BURBERRY PRORSUM | 5. ANTONIO MARRAS | 6. MARCO DE VINCENZO | 7. WES GORDON | 8. ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
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VINTAGE WALLPAPER Reminiscent of old country houses where one retreats for afternoon tea, garden floral prints reigned over the runways, adorning gilded brocades from tailored pieces at Dries Van Noten to sporty casuals at Victoria Beckham.
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DESERT CHIC Keeping up with the current mood for minimalism, the treasured hue of brown makes a comeback in a variety of delicious shades, ranging from honey caramel to burnt toffee.
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good vibes The latest version of tie-dye is reinstating the retro groove in a subtle ladylike aesthetic with tailored trousers and dresses exuding summery goodness.
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1. EMILIO PUCCI | 2. ALTUZARRA | 3. BCBG MAX AZRIA | 4. DSQUARED2 | 5. JEAN PIERRE BRAGANZA | 6. NARCISO RODRIGUEZ | 7. VALENTINO | 8. PACO RABANNE
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SUPER STRIPES In keeping with the vibrant prismatic movement of spring, rainbow stripes with striking colours get a polished spin on the runway.
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RAVE REVIVAL Embrace the loud, psychedelic designs of summer that are reinterpreted by Chanel, Stella Jean and Christopher Kane to recall the culture craze into wearable fashions.
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REFLECTIONS The futuristic incarnation of mirror embellishments are more experimental than ever with Maison Margiela and Loewe’s broken mirror story and Louis Vuitton’s future-perfect ruched foil minidresses.
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ICY SHERBET Cleanse your summer palette with shades like soft pistachio, delicate peach and lemon chiffons that look good enough to eat.
Compiled by Aishwarya Tyagi.
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1. DIOR | 2. JASON WU | 3. GUCCI | 4. CHLOÉ | 5. CAROLINA HERRERA | 6. PRABAL GURUNG | 7. VALENTINO
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BACK IT UP Kick-start your urban adventure with summer’s beloved backpack in many a grown up version – from Burberry’s genuine canvas to PPQ’s handled leather version with fringes. 1. PPQ | 2. EMPORIO ARMANI | 3. ALBERTA FERRETTI | 4. BURBERRY
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ALL THE CAGE Project major femme fatale with the season’s most-wanted caged sandals in gladiator styles and prim stiletto designs, depending on your mood. 1. KENZO | 2. BURBERRY | 3. CARVEN | 4. BALMAIN
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ORNATE CHOKERS With an overall Nineties resurgence, the choker is the centre of attention, as seen on models on and off duty across all fashion weeks. 1. DIOR | 2. ANDREA INCONTRI | 3. ASHLEY MADSEN | 4. BALMAIN
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FLORAL LEANINGS Ideal for a summer vacation, a blossoming sandal makes for the perfect accessory with spring/summer ’16 offerings of floral appliqué, blooming embroideries and botanical motifs. 1. EMANUEL UNGARO | 2. DRIES VAN NOTEN | 3. ALEXANDER MCQUEEN | 4. 3.1 PHILIP LIM
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FLOWER POWER Elegant, braided up-dos with intricate floral headpieces bring back the bohemian spirit of summer. 1. ANTONIO MARRAS | 2. RODARTE | 3. MONCLER GAMME ROUGE | 4. ANNA SUI
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LIFE IN HALF CIRCLE Victoria Beckham’s star accessory – the super functional oversized half-moon bag – meets its many versions across the fashion month. 1. JASON WU | 2. VICTORIA BECKHAM | 3. ALTUZARRA | 4. AGNES B
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DRAWING STRINGS Make a pick of the perfect drawstring bag – from eye-catching hardware to tribal prints, the versatile versions mean it can pack plenty and still retain its cool, laid-back silhouette. 1. MARQUES ‘ ALMEIDA | 2. ELISABETTA FRANCHI | 3. DIANE VON FURSTENBERG | 4. J.W. ANDERSON
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SCARF STORIES From pastel-hued chiffons to chunky woven stoles, we’re spoilt for choice for the retro favourite neck scarf. 1. GUCCI | 2. LOEWE | 3. EMPORIO ARMANI | 4. LEMAIRE
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CUT TO THE CHASE A relaxed mule with either a cut off or folded back is the ultimate choice to make a stylish yet comfortable statement this summer. 1. ACNE STUDIOS | 2. EDUN | 3. VICTORIA BECKHAM | 4. GUCCI
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SUNNY SIDE UP The floppy topper made famous by Nineties hip-hop icons and Pharrell Williams is now hot property once again. 1. BCBG MAX AZRIA | 2. ICEBERG | 3. JIL SANDER | 4. TEMPERLEY LONDON
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LIKE A CHANDELIER Spring’s generous offerings of colossal shoulder dusting earrings are perfect for a head-turning statement. 1. PRADA | 2. KENZO | 3. EMPORIO ARMANI | 4. MISSONI
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SMALL WONDERS The micro bag trend is being carried into the new season with pint-sized masterpieces packing big doses of juicy colours. 1. DOLCE&GABBANA | 2. ALEXIS MABILLE | 3. ANDREW GN | 4. MOSCHINO
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H A UTE C O U T U RE EDIT
Spring/summer’s haute couture presentations were filled with innovative, almost rebellious design techniques —far from the tradition-bound Parisian world of constricted grandeur. The modern realism of the new age of couture is a turning point in the history of the elite fashion, but no less fascinating with new technology and craftsmanship evolving in the latest collections. Atelier Versace S/S 16 Haute Couture
Words by Aishwarya Tyagi.
The New Codes Of Couture
Chanel S/S 16 Haute Couture
Elie Saab envisions an Edwardian Englishwoman’s adventure across the mystic jungles of ancient India, with a more youthful attitude towards couture’s opulent embellishments.
Maison Margiela’s couture show was a utilitarian vision of the amalgamation of powerful discipline and exquisite indulgence.
THE ADVENTURESS
Metallic combat boots with chained elaborations stole the show as haute couture’s most rebellious accessory.
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LILAC DIARIES
Tony Ward’s lavish couture presented a plethora of purple hues.
Schiaparelli’s surreal violets decorated with kaleidoscopic patchworks.
Jewel harnessed feet at Valentino evoked the carefree sense of an ethereal goddess. Armani PrivÊ’s monopastel lilac fantasy encapsulated feminine silhouettes focused on the subtle structures of airy organza.
Contraptions
Retro charmed chokers at Ulyana Sergeenko signified the era of Russian fashion evolution.
Crystal embellished body harnesses at Loris Azzaro bring a structured quality to eveningwear.
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New Blood
Aouadi’s hand-embellished couture pieces combined regality with modernity.
Newcomer Guo Pei reinvented traditional artisanal crafts for her couture collection with royal Oriental motifs.
Valentino’s Grecian gowns announced the arrival of spring with romantic butterfly patterns.
Dice Kayek takes inspiration from Alfred Hitchcock’s Birds in his couture prints.
WILD MOTIFS
Beaded insect embellishments made an unassuming but beautiful appearance on mesh extensions at Dior.
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BEAUTY WITH A TWIST
Graphic eyelines, defined brows and gloss stained lips made a prominent statement at Armani PrivĂŠ.
Dior’s beauty look was feminine with a hint of edge in a messy bun teamed with strong eyes.
Hanneli Mustaparta delivers a chic nod to Sixties mod in Miu Miu outside the shows.
Chanel opted for striking lines to define the eyes and a chic “croissant” updo inspired by a Picasso sculpture.
MODISH WAYS
Giambattista Valli presented a bevy of embellished mod silhouettes with high necklines in youthful short shifts.
The army of Alexandre Vauthier’s sexy sirens marched down the runway in sultry minishifts paired with thighhigh boots.
Dior ss16 Haute Couture
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PUMP UP THE VOLUME
Ulyana Sergeenko takes a traditional ball-gown skirt for a spin at the Palais Rodin.
Stephane Rolland’s voluminous skirts employed handstitched pleats with yards of silky textile.
Susie Lau a.k.a Susie Bubble’s modern take on ballooning hems.
Giambattista Valli showcased exquisite workmanship with tiered ruffles in a frothy charm and icy pastels.
Rami Al Ali displays graceful grandeur
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B e h i nd th e Scene s
The Epilogue By Natalie Trevis
A new chapter in the history of the storied house of Christian Dior is about to begin. But not before the epilogue: A spring/summer 2016 couture collection with vision and heart.
The frisson of anticipation at the start of any runway show was only heightened at Christian Dior’s most recent couture outing because of the burning question on everyone’s lips: Who’s next? The official successor to Raf Simons is yet to be announced and speculation on the outcome is fashion’s favourite new game. In the meantime, the incredible behind-the-scenes talents at the house have been diligently continuing their work, spearheaded by heads of studio Lucie Meier and Serge Ruffieux. As the first model emerged onto the runway at the familiar venue of Musée Rodin, its mirrored façade rising from the ground like a futuristic phoenix, the void was filled with the youthful, modern Dior codes that continued Simons’s legacy for a moment longer. Couture without complications, exquisite lily of the valley embroidery is casualised in asymmetric forms and pushed up sleeves, lending an unflappable air that belies the hours of dedicated handcraft. Lightweight crepe skirts with embellished panels, both fluted mini versions and elegant midi iterations, offer sweet femininity balanced by classic tuxedo and bar jackets, with the bell sleeves and emphasised waist that promise unequivocally Christian Dior haute couture. A clean-cut camel version begs to be styled with cropped jeans and
Backstage images photographed by Sophie Carre
brogues in a true realisation of 21st century Parisian
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A sense of transience around the house is inevitable at the moment, but these familiar anchors combined with the forward-looking optimism of this ultimately wearable collection send a message of confidence.
street couture. “It’s her attitude, her way of moving, her way of simply being,” explain the show notes. A certain freedom pervades the collection generally; perhaps a rare opportunity seized by a youth-centric Dior team, seen in the effortless off-centre scoop-neck of a plain white gown and the contemporary sensuality of a sheer bodycon column dress. Shoulders appear at every turn, in slipped-off jackets and sweater-like tops bound together with crystal-dotted silk with the merest hint of girlish straps. Interwoven in these modern touches are subtle nods to the symbols and superstitions so beloved of Monsieur Dior – his respect of an untold fate perhaps a surprising commonality with the millennial dreamers who are growing the ranks of couture customers – in everything from lucky stars to floral blooms and panther motifs. A sense of transience around the house is inevitable at the moment, but these familiar anchors combined with the forward-looking optimism of this ultimately wearable collection send a message of confidence. This couture collection, an interlude with its own vision of “couture’s new realism”, assured us that Simons’ signature is as much part of a modern Christian Dior as ever. To see how the story ends, we simply need to turn the page.
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Tal k ing P o i nt
Tom Ford did it with a music video, Thomas Tait with a presentation and Misha Nonoo via Instagram. The number of creative ways to launch a new collection is limited only by a designer’s imagination. But, what does it mean for that staple of the industry and highlight of the fashion calendar, the traditional runway show? We ask six fashion experts whether it’s time for a runway reboot. By Natalie Trevis
Runway Reboot
Antonio Beradi
It reaches all your senses; sight, sound, smell
their feedback in that moment, which I love!
and, if you’re lucky enough, touch. It’s also a great
I am definitely less stressed than I am during
marketing tool and the images have a lasting
the fast pace of a fashion show.
impact as they are used over and over again.
Presenting collections in different ways can
It’s not just about the clothes – it’s about
widen our audience and potentially reach
communicating the brand’s whole aesthetic
people in manners that a runway show may
and lifestyle. People have always viewed
not. However, the traditional runway shows
Nez Gebreel, CEO of the Dubai Design
the fashion industry as glamourous; it’s
are irreplaceable in the way the audience can
and Fashion Council
actually a tough, hard-working industry, but
experience the movement of the clothes from
it’s also about escapism. The designers like
various angles first hand. Neither method
I don’t think the runway show is on the wane,
to tell a story, their brand’s story, and as
cancels out the other. And, a presentation’s
I just think designers are being more creative
the designers are creative, the shows are
production cost can be as high as a full-
with their budgets and younger designers
an extension of their imagination and vision.
on runway show, if not more sometimes.
Rami Al Ali, couture designer
Charles Beckwith, producer and co-
are more inclined to use social media. It’s part of their social and creative network and becomes part of their DNA. I’m a big advocate of emerging designers not forcing themselves into a runway show too soon, as they’re not necessarily ready. They often don’t have enough merchandise for a start, and if it’s not well edited or styled, it doesn’t make the right impact. That’s why with one of the showcasing platforms we have here in Dubai, FFWD, I pushed for them to offer emerging designers the opportunity to have presentations and
host of American Fashion Podcast
they’ve had some great feedback. I believe the larger brands will always host
I do enjoy showcasing the couture collections
runway shows. It’s part of ‘the experience’,
as a presentation, as I feel it maximises the
There used to be more of a dependable return
particularly in luxury and couture. There’s
audience engagement. A presentation allows
on investment for traditional fashion shows.
something very special about a runway show
my guests to examine the designs for longer
They had a real business purpose up until quite
when it’s done well; it’s a full production.
and get up close to the magnificence of the
recently, maybe 2008, but this is no longer
detail in the designs, the shapes and the whole
the case. It’s just not as necessary to make
essence of the couture collection. In today’s
an event so large to give access to hundreds
social media age, a presentation allows for
of traditional media outlets, or to place such a
clearer images to be uploaded through social
large bet on one 12-minute blip on the radar
media to do justice to the designs. Each
in such a strong field of competition, when
season, I try to experiment with technicality
consumers will share other kinds of marketing
and creativity, but also in the way the pieces
images and advocate your brand for free.
are shown. When the direction of the collection
Designers who are still producing these giant
is about the construction, workmanship and
events either haven’t gotten the memo or just
structure of the pieces, a static presentation is
don’t care that it loses them money. Three
the right format. During the presentation, I can
designers we’ve interviewed in the last few
interact with the press and the guests to get
months about this exact issue, Siki Im, Charles
“I’m a big advocate of emerging designers not forcing themselves into a runway show too soon, as they’re not necessarily ready.” Nez Gebreel
212 Youssef, and Reem Acra, have all said that
beginning to rethink this, as sales tend to
users around the world. I also liked the way that
even if the show is a bad financial investment,
suffer as a consequence.
through Instagram, I was able to present the
it’s still important for them to be able to show
I’m a big advocate of smaller salon
collection in two different formats – combining
their work and receive recognition for that
presentations: Intimacy naturally goes hand-
a layer of fantasy with real life.
work. It’s part of the reason they’re fashion
in-hand with exclusivity and luxury. Plus,
The tradition of runway will always be a major
designers; as creative people, they need to
with social media now, the whole world can
part of the fashion industry and one I am
show off their creations and have that high
effectively see and partake in any experience
personally very fond of. I think many designers
energy moment of recognition.
anyway, so for a designer, s/he can benefit
will stick to this format as it suits the ethos of
Is there a perfect alternative in the short
from the best of both worlds.
their designs. I’ve learned from my e-commerce
term? No, I don’t think so. We’re seeing a lot
I’m sure runway will always have its place,
that my customer lives online, so it was
of experimentation in how to get that same
particularly as a customer-facing format
important for me to include a digital element.
experience from other types of exhibitions, from
and experience, where it can directly
static and hybrid presentations to seasonal
impact sales. Presenting on runway is
video premieres, but the energy you get
a statement of confidence and alleged
back from the audience just isn’t the same. If
success. Brands like Burberry, who are
fashion shows can be made profitable again,
able to push the boundaries and leverage
the game is back on. I think if the seasons
this format to impact every possible
turn around, when you’re not showing next
communication channel around the world
season’s collection six months in advance, but
instantaneously – from traditional media,
instead showing products that are available
to social media and word of mouth – do
the moment the show starts, you’re going
it best. For smaller brands, I believe in
to see more production value poured into
quality over quantity; it’s more effective
fashion shows than ever. The way fashion
to innovate and excite on a more intimate
is manufactured and sold to consumers
scale, tapping into and nurturing a smaller
is changing. So, like a tide returning, the
pool of influencers and customers, whose
I was ready to explore a new way of presenting my
runway show – traditional or non-traditional
conversations and whispers can carry great
line to the press, buyers, friends and fans, who
– is going to be back and bigger than ever.
weight and transform a business overnight.
usually attend my shows. I’m always sneaking
Nanette Lepore, fashion designer
out from backstage to visit my friends in the audience and I’ve always felt like I was missing all the pre-show fun. So, for years, I fantasised about having a party instead of a show. I created an event for spring/summer 2016 inspired by the art and performance “happenings” of the Sixties, where hipsters would make art in the middle of an avantgarde party scene. My guests walked into a live lookbook shoot and mingled while sipping drinks, as the models had their hair and Katrina Judd, founder of In+Addition
Misha Nonoo, fashion designer
Consulting
makeup done. Tiki Disco provided the music as photographers shot Instagram-worthy shots
I wanted to take a risk for spring/summer 2016
of the models against an exhibit of graffiti art
Runway shows will always be relevant,
and try showing my collection in a way that was
by painter Stefan Eins. I think the buyers and
but fashion houses are taking them to
creative and approachable. I have always been
press really appreciated the easy vibe; it was
new heights of theatre, expense, detail
inspired by Instagram’s power to encourage
also a nice opportunity to see the clothing up
and exclusivity in order to reaffirm their
creativity in so many different fields. I am a
close. Everyone had a blast.
position in the market and make their
very visual person and I love that you can sum
The traditional runway show six months ahead
statement for the season. It’s impossible
up or understand someone else’s story in one
of product in the stores is no longer working.
for independent designers to keep up with
second on the forum; it is an art form in itself
Due to the explosion of social media, the
this, and so the presentation format exists
and so, seemed the perfect platform on which
customer no longer has to wait until all the
to capture the attention of influential
to launch the collection. It was the first time this
fun fashion looks reach the stores to see them.
industry types. The ultimate goal is brand
format has been used by a fashion brand and
Therefore, when the clothing finally reaches the
memorability and engagement.
I think the risk definitely paid off. The positive
shops, the customer is onto something new.
Fashion currently suffers from a disconnect
response was incredible. There was an 80 per
I think the ultimate solution is to create
between the seasons. What is presented (in
cent increase in new visitors to our website.
a runway presentation in season that
whichever format) is not available to buy and
It allowed us to reach a wider, more inclusive
includes the ultimate consumer. I’m planning
yet it is visible all over the world via the buzz
global audience with the collection, including
another party for autumn/winter 2016: A
created through digital. Brands are rightly
the fashion industry, consumers and Instagram
late night cocktail party at my townhouse!
“Like a tide returning, the runway show – traditional or non-traditional – is going to be back and bigger than ever.” Charles Beckwith
Alexander Wang
While we’re y ou n g We pave the Venetian streets with fine fashion in celebration of MOJEH’s anniversary issue.
Photographed by Marco Cella Styled by Ivan Rasic
Dress, ERMANNO SCERVINO | Earrings, DOLCE&GABBANA | He wears LARUSMIANI
Dress and shoes, DOLCE&GABBANA
Jacket, skirt and iPhone cases, DOLCE&GABBANA | Men wear LARUSMIANI
Dress, PHILIPP PLEIN | Sunglasses, DOLCE&GABBANA
Dress, OSCAR DE LA RENTA | Earrings, DOLCE&GABBANA | Shoes, GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI
Dress, DSQUARED2 | Shoes, DOLCE&GABBANA
Dress, SAINT LAURENT | Cardigan, CHRISTIAN DIOR | Headphones and shoes, DOLCE&GABBANA
Skirt and top, LUISA BECCARIA | Necklace, GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI
Coat dress, VERSACE | Sunglasses, DOLCE&GABBANA
Coat dress, VERSACE | Shoes, DOLCE&GABBANA | Men wear BRIONI
Bubble embroidered dress, LOUIS VUITTON | Earrings, DOLCE&GABBANA
Models: Sofija Milosevic at Fashion Models Management Milan Duco Ter Steege at 2morrow Model Milan Elia Cometti at Elite Milan Makeup artist: Sara J. Casiraghi Hair stylist: Valerio Sestito at Freelancer Artist Agency Assistant stylist: Camila Salles Local production: Dreamteam Production: Louis Agency
t o m o r r o w ’ s
dream Step into the light and adorn yourself with one of fashion’s best kept secrets.
Photographed by Julien Vallon Styled by Pauline Roze
Matte sequinned jumper and skirt, LOUIS VUITTON
Embroidered tank top and silk trousers, LOUIS VUITTON
Bubble embroidered dress, LOUIS VUITTON
Coat with leather braids, LOUIS VUITTON
Leather and linen dress, LOUIS VUITTON

Long sleeved dress, LOUIS VUITTON
Dress, LOUIS VUITTON
Dress, LOUIS VUITTON

Model: Astrid Holler at IMG Paris Hair stylist: Quentin Guyen Makeup artist: Jolanta Cedro at B Agency Local production: SWAP Production: Louis Agency
Unique Encounters Let curiosity perpetuate into a world of perspective as normality transitions into the wonderfully bizarre.
Photographed by Michelle Du xuan Styled by Camille-JosĂŠphine Teisseire
Face throughout, Les Beiges N°20 Healthy Glow Foundation, Long Lasting Concealer 10 Beige Clair, Les Beiges N°25 Healthy Glow Sheer Powder SPF 15 and Création Exclusive N°10 Sunkiss Ribbon Blush | Eyes throughout, Les 4 Ombres 262 Tissé Beverly Hills, Illusion d’Ombre 126 Griffith Green, Illusion d’Ombre 118 Moonlight Pink, Illusion d’Ombre 122 Ocean Light, Illusion d’Ombre 116 Rouge Gorge, Illusion d’Ombre 90 Convoitise, Stylo Yeux Waterproof 925 Pacific Green, Stylo Yeux Waterproof 924 Fervent Blue and Stylo Yeux Waterproof 926 Purple Choc | Lips throughout, Rouge Coco 400 Louise, Rouge Coco 420 Vera and Rouge Coco Shine 114 Shipshape, CHANEL Navy mesh dress, CHANEL
Black cotton jersey dress, CHANEL
Printed cotton voile top, printed crepe de chine blouse, printed cotton voile skirt and tweed sandals, CHANEL
Silver embroidered tweed jacket, silver embroidered tweed skirt, silver crackled calfskin sandals, silver quilted vanity case bag and light silver fingerless gloves, CHANEL
White silk organza blouse and white silk organza dress, CHANEL
Printed cotton voile skirt and printed silk tulle pants, CHANEL
Model: Anisia at IMG Photographer’s assistant: Joffrey Montes Hair stylist: Martyn Foss Calder Makeup artist: Aya Production: Louis Agency
Caprice necklace and earrings, DIOR HIGH JEWELLERY
Mixed Emotions No longer restricted to eveningwear, high jewellery crosses all borders and offers the finishing touches to casualwear. Worn with silk slip dresses, soft knits or structured workwear, Victoire de Castellane’s latest pieces for the house of Dior present a new approach to high versus low. Photography by Anthony Arquier Styled by Alba Melendo
Precieuses rose bracelet and earrings, DIOR HIGH JEWELLERY
Caprice earrings, DIOR HIGH JEWELLERY
Caprice necklace, ring, and earrings, DIOR HIGH JEWELLERY
Granville earrings and ring, DIOR HIGH JEWELLERY
Granville earrings and ring, DIOR HIGH JEWELLERY | La D De Dior Granville watch, DIOR TIMEPIECES
Caprice ring and bracelet, DIOR HIGH JEWELLERY
Granville earrings, Precieuses Trefle ring, DIOR HIGH JEWELLERY
Caprice necklace, DIOR HIGH JEWELLERY
Granville earrings and ring, DIOR HIGH JEWELLERY | La D De Dior Granville watch, DIOR TIMEPIECES
Caprice earrings, DIOR HIGH JEWELLERY, La D De Dior Granville watch DIOR TIMEPIECES
Model: Yulia at Metropolitan Models Make up: Cyril Laine Hair stylist: Yumiko Hikage Clothing: All Dior Production: Louis Agency
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J e w ellery a nd Wat ch e s
The Story
Tellers of Time
With a profound dedication to groundbreaking mechanisms and striking designs, Cartier continually celebrates its past while presenting a vision for the future. At this year’s Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie in Geneva, we spoke to Pierre Rainero, director of style and heritage for the house.
One of the many archive sketches housed in Cartier’s heritage department. Along with the vintage jewellery and watch pieces, these artefacts assist the team in exploring the in-depth design history of the house.
Pierre Rainero
We meet today at SIHH, where Cartier is showcasing another exceptional set of timepieces, all straddling both intricate designs and mechanisms. How is it that you continue to captivate audiences year after year? Many people are surprised by the number of novelties we come out with, but, in fact, for us it’s something very natural. It’s part of the culture – the will to push forward with movement, creations and new shapes is just ingrained and we never have to force it. Has it always been the case? The rhythm is different according to the house at that time, but still, when you look back as far as the 1910s or 1920s, for example, you’re totally surprised by the number of novelties created in such a limited time. And again, it’s part of our heritage – heritage is not only a question of style, it’s about design, aesthetic and dynamism. It’s organic? It just happens? Yes, we don’t even question ourselves. In fact, we are fully aware that to some extent it’s a problem – there are so many novelties that some exceptional pieces are lost in people’s memories. Does this present any challenges? Well, we follow a very basic logic at Cartier – we like to create beautiful objects, so we’ll only accept projects where we’re convinced we can arrive at the perfect end. We have to be satisfied that this beautiful object will arrive to a buyer who is sensitive to it and understands its complexities.
A Cartier vanity case from 1942, inspired by Islamic art.
A Panthère clip brooch from 1949.
How do you speak to that buyer through
Can you tell us about a key focus for 2016?
with just the spots of the panther; you’ll notice
the pieces?
Let’s talk about chapters, one of them being
them if you want, it really depends on your will.
I think that women believe in the importance
shapes. It’s a really creative way to add
of having beautiful things around them. There
value to the world of watchmaking for both
How do you think a woman relates to
will always be a place for such creations for
men and women. In particular, we have the
its nature?
that reason, So, there’s always a search for
Hypnose, which is about volume and shape
It’s very rich in terms of aesthetic, but it
beauty and to some extent also the notion of
with two circular cases, both linked, but
goes beyond that – the panther is highly
elegance. It comes as a natural creation and
seemingly floating.
synonymous with certain values that are shared, such as elegance, independence
again, it’s never forced. And the next chapter?
and (in some ways) strength. The panther
Don’t you feel this has changed recently,
Well, of course, complicated movements are
has become very popular. It’s very well-known
that women want more than just beauty?
key for Cartier and we’ve focused on mysterious
around the world, much more than when it
You’re right, the notion of what is beautiful
movements a lot this year – it’s beautiful as the
was first created in 1949, because it was
might evolve according to different periods.
mechanisms look like they’re floating in mid-
only known by a few women then. Those who
This is very true. And women also – some
air. But, often where it’s not mysterious, it has
gravitated towards it helped build its strong
women – have the same idea of perception as
instead become a part of the design. Again, this
nature. Its symbolism can be measured
some men. When technique is so enhanced
is very Cartier – to take something functional
by the fact that some women don’t feel
and sophisticated, there comes about this idea
and interpret it as something aesthetic.
like they’re ready to wear the panther yet, because it’s too commanding and strong; it
that it’s beautiful. We’ve noticed many more interpretations
doesn’t represent them.
Yes, exactly. Technique is just as important
of the Panthère, a continual emblem of
for her today.
the brand.
Does this affect how you interpret it
Women are very sensitive to that, yes. And, I
Well, of course, it’s an incredible source of
each year?
think that is also why you see more and more
inspiration because it’s such a rich symbol. It
It’s interesting. I think far from being a
mechanical watches for women. There is a
can be figurative or naturalistic and we can use
problem for me, it shows that the symbols
perception that beauty is also inner beauty –
it as a stylised or abstract object. For instance,
behind the animal are still there. And,
and that, of course, speaks of the mechanisms.
you can use just a part of the skin, the spots or
it has not reduced to only an aesthetic
This is permanently evolving.
fur perhaps. We’ve presented the small bangle
figure, no – it’s kept its strength.
270 In that case, have you ever thought about
big, you can guess there is something hidden.
of 1989 and 1990. The exhibition later travelled
a baby panther?
So, as well as being tiny, it has to hide any
to Russia in 1992 and then Tokyo, and the
A baby panther is totally different, because of
signs that it can be opened to reveal something
acquisitions got stronger and stronger, each
the symbolism behind it. It’s more in the tradition
else. This makes it even more of a challenge.
representing different expressions of the brand. Now, it’s more than 30 different exhibitions that
of animal jewellery that is cute and it says many other things. As far as traditional pieces for
You’re investing time and money into
have already taken place at the most important
women go, it could be a bird or a baby bear –
buying back lost pieces, such as old secret
museum in the world.
and then yes, it becomes more about cuteness
watches. Why is this so important to Cartier?
and traditional femininity.
We started this in 1983, so over 30 years ago
Can you tell us about the most recent
now, but we had already created the archive
exhibition?
Another favourite of the house and its
department in 1973. It was with the intention
Asia Imagined, which is actually here in
followers is, of course, the secret watch.
of gathering and protecting all the documents
Geneva at the Museum of Far Eastern Arts.
Why has it seen so much success?
surrounding the creation, production and
We’re exhibiting our Asian-inspired pieces,
Well, secret watches were born at a time when
commercialisation of our collections. We wanted
besides the actual artefacts that inspired their
it wasn’t very elegant for a women to look at
to home everything in one place, so that we
creation. You’ll see exotic items from China or
a watch and to have to know the time – an
could analyse the evolution of our style and gain
Japan, perhaps, such as imperial porcelains,
elegant woman shouldn’t be a prisoner of time,
a clearer vision of our collections throughout
embroidered silks and sword ornaments. It’s a
she should be totally free from constraints. And
different stages. But, by the Eighties, we
fantastic exhibition, because the objects are face
so, it took time for women to be free to look at
considered the fact that there would be nothing
to face in the same windows. So sometimes,
a watch. In fact, it wasn’t until the end of the
better than the object itself in explaining the
it’s very confusing, but in a good way of looking
1920s that more freedom was given to women.
skills and styles of the pieces.
at things. In our dragon piece, for example,
Not given, too, but let’s say taken by them. So,
This is how it evolved.
analyse how Cartier chose to present it and respect the motif. It’s beautiful. You see the
if they wanted to look at the time, it was better that it was a piece of jewellery.
Do you remember the first time a museum
comparison between colours and motifs again
approached you to exhibit the archive
– you see all that. It’s a jewel of an exhibition.
How does this work, technically speaking?
pieces?
They have to be very, very refined creations;
The first important exhibition took place at the
What about your Islamic inspired pieces?
everything has to be tiny, invisible in fact. If it’s too
museum Du Petit-Palais in Paris, in the winter
Islamic art is key, probably more so than Asian
The Tourbillon Mystérieux Azuré pendant watch calibre 9463 MC, a key launch for Cartier at SIHH 2016.
As with any of their high jewellery pieces, a great dedication to craftsmanship and creativity is required. Here we see one of many examples from the Panthère.
I think that women believe in the importance of having beautiful things around them.
The Dragon Mystérieux watch calibre 9981 MC. The new timepiece is an example of Cartier’s mysterious mechanism.
style. Islamic art has been very, very important,
vocabulary – some parts of the DNA are
along with Persia, global India and the Middle
integrated to help recognise the Cartier style,
East in general, but also northern Africa. We
but it’s always subtle. Our intention is always
have many, many influences and it is highly
to create objects of today and bring something
important, because it’s impacted our taste and
new and evolved to the market. We try and bring
style, especially in terms of allocation of colours.
something that has never been seen before.
Can you recall any pieces in particular?
What’s the biggest challenge you face in
Well, you know, at the beginning of the century,
doing this?
Louis Cartier suggested the association of blue
We’re in a field in which the final product relies
and green to the world. Previously, in the West,
on the talents of everyone involved, so the
blue and green was considered in bad taste, but
greatest challenge is ensuring that everyone
he took examples from ceramics in Morocco
is working in the same direction. We have the
and used them as inspiration. When you look
artisans, designers, stone purveyors and stone
at many mosques, for example, you’ll notice
buyers, and they all have to be motivated by
the mix of blues and greens. We proposed the
the same goal.
same palettes in collections. So, how does it feel when you see that Does the past Cartier directly inform the
final piece?
present one?
It’s always a pleasure. It’s not only an object,
We never take one piece from the past and
it’s about sharing a piece and then the pride
suddenly remake it. We never want to copy
felt when it is ready to be sold. There is a lot
ourselves. Some pieces are inspired more
of pride when we see the final exhibition, such
in terms of style. It’s what we call aesthetic
as the one here today.
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T h e P i ec e
The Gems of
Rosa Dei Venti Injecting expression into his art, Bodino’s avant-garde use of colour provides a refreshing take on fine jewellery, while his manipulation of opposing elements cement an ability to remain original. “The creation of this necklace started from the design. Inspired by the rose of the winds, I decided to make it more romantic and stylised,” explained Bodino. Capturing the essence of masculinity through his inspiration, Bodino successfully distils touches of romance with the inclusion of a vibrantly bold colour palette. Pink tourmalines, rubellites, rubies and black spinels are all moulded into the design, bewildering in their brilliance. “Finding the appropriate hue of stones was a real challenge, especially that of the tourmaline beads,” Bodino recounted. “I was looking for a shade of pink that would match well with the rubellites and the rubies,” he said. Ensuring that no one stone took precedence in the design, rather allowing the blend of all three colours to equally hold the piece spoke to his vision. Cascading ribbons of pink tourmalines offer a decadent opulence, while the black rhodium plating and the teardrop-shaped stones present a seemly medieval flair.
Images courtesy of Giampiero Bodino, Words by Sophie Pasztor
Alluring materials in vivid palettes take precedence in Giampiero Bodino’s mesmerisingly beautiful Rosa Dei Venti necklace.
Your work has a noticeable retro aesthetic. What vintage elements are you drawn to in other facets of your life? My work is inspired by many periods and references. I take a thread from the past or present and reinterpret/transform it to what I feel it needs to be. The most important quality that I take from my references is their love and attention to their work, no matter how small or big it was. How would you describe your personal style? Intuitive.
The Designer:
Dina Kamal of Dinakamal DK01
What was your motivation to reinterpret the
We visit the Lebanese designer’s workshop in Beirut to find out what inspires her forward thinking collections.
Your jewellery is made using a variety of
pinky ring? It became a fascination for me to understand what wearing rings around the little finger signified throughout history for men and women.
different coloured metals, but beige gold seems to be a unique signature. What makes it so appealing? Beige gold is 18K gold without copper. It is the whitest 18K gold can be. It feels raw. It is
You were an architect before a designer. How
understated or subtle. I love that quality in it. I
has this influenced your designs?
find it beautiful and it relates to my work.
Knowing the value of little details that might not be seen, but will be felt, is of great importance to
We are always fascinated with strong and
me. Everything I do is about emotional impact.
independent women. How would you credit
I create that by understanding the context in
your success?
relation to the material and its purpose.
I think I am driven by what I feel and imagine. This gives me great power to make things happen.
DK01 has a 1920s influence. What made that era so appealing to you?
In what ways does culture influence your
Design at that time was refined in theory and
design?
in practice. A lot of the accessories of daily
All cultures influence my design. It depends on
use were then turned into ‘precious objects’.
which one concept or culture I am focused on
Objects and jewellery were part of everyday
at the time.
life and then passed on as heirlooms. Their Images courtesy of Dina Kamal
impact was endless.
Who would you most like to see wearing your jewellery?
What is your most favoured piece in your
Everyone who feels good in it. Those who feel
own personal jewellery collection?
its positive impact and are inspired by it.
The one that feels in tune with my state of Dina Kamal, designer of Dinakamal DK01
mind or the one that I need to change my
What can we expect from you going forward?
state of mind.
Always going forward.
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T h e C o llec tio n
Paradisiacal
J e w e l s Enter the elusive world of Haute Joaillerie and watch the stories behind precious pieces come to life. Here, Chopard takes us on a journey of discovery, showcasing the exceptional craftsmanship and skills behind their new collection.
The delicate art of Haute Joaillerie has been a rare skill harnessed by only a select few – where the precision and inventiveness of artisans is tested in an attempt to create a mesmerising piece of fine jewellery. Exceptional by design and ingenious in craftsmanship, this season, Chopard looks to explore a darker fantasy with deep hypnotic stones in enthralling shades of pink, purple, green and blue, in which the earth’s raw materials such as coloured stones, gold and titanium are explored. In the initial steps of formation, each item is taken on a journey of conception. The brushstrokes of an artist illustrate in photographic detail the blueprint for design. Pressed against a wax mould, the meticulous
Images courtesy of Chopard, Words by Sophie Pasztor
work of steady hands sets each precious stone into place. Carefully ensuring its placement and security in its mount, the surrounding metals accentuate the brilliance in each and every stone. Whimsical by nature, the collection offers a thought-provoking difference from its predecessors – where a new aesthetic is envisioned. Seemingly, the heart of the collection is an 18 karat white gold necklace, a constellation of titanium that is carefully manipulated into shape. From there, vividly coloured stones are used for decoration, with fancy-cut sapphires, amethysts, rubellites, rubies, tanzanites and Paraiba tourmalines injecting personality into the piece. A 14 karat pear-shaped tanzanite completes the design and cements its status as an incomparable work of art. We also witness a butterfly cuff-bracelet spring to life with poetic charm – formed in topaz, accentuated with Paraiba tourmalines and amethysts while gracefully perching on gem-set titanium foliage.
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h i g h n otes
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
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ART DECO Let supreme elegance take over as a renewed love of all things art deco is found through the purposeful lines of diamond-encrusted drop earrings and the panelled power of cuff bracelets. 1. CARTIER | 2. LA MARQUISE | 3. LOUIS VUITTON | 4. MESSIKA | 5. CINDY CHAO
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J.W. ANDERSON
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NEW STRUCTURE Redefine predictable notions of fine jewellery with new age ear cuffs and mesmerising rings crafted in artful angular forms, while watchfaces conceal colourful mechanical details.
1. ZAHA HADID X AZIZ & WALID MOUZANNAR | 2. CARRERA Y CARRERA | 3. MYRIAM SOS at S*uce Rocks | 4. CHANEL | 5. MESSIKA | 6. ROBERT WAN
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Hau t e H o r o l o gy
The Essence of
Words by Aishwarya Tyagi.
Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) is a leading platform in the world of modern watchmaking, with mechanical and metallurgical experts presenting the complexities of their horological wonders, capturing time in the most precious fineries. Dive into the universe of cutting-edge innovations and the dazzling intricacies of the debutant watches of this year.
Hypnose, Cartier Mesmerising proportions and optical illusions are encapsulated with finesse in the heritage watchmakers’ classic Baignoire design, reinvented in the 2016 Hypnose, featuring two flattened oval cases set with diamonds. The casing is further accentuated by black lacquer, which fills the hollows together with the diamonds, creating the illusion of concentric ovals that graduate in size. The large model comes decorated with 18-carat white gold; the bezel, dial and bracelet set with brilliant-cut diamonds, black lacquer and quartz movement – all of which highlight Cartier’s refined design skill set.
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Limelight Stella, Piaget Combining art, technology and jewellery, the new Piaget Limelight Stella is driven by the feminine sensuality of the moon, a symbol of wonderment, expressed by accentuating the new cutaway moon-phase window that is supported by a set of 14 sparkling diamonds. The rose gold version has a blue window that stands out against the white dial, with an endearing gold star picking up the lustre in the case and creating an illusory vision. The brand’s ambassador, Hollywood starlet Jessica Chastain, embodies an essence of beauty, femininity and grace much like the Limelight Stella. The high-end craftsmanship of the stylish white gold design comes with a sparkling array of 126 diamonds encrusting the bezel and bracelet.
Blossom Velvet, Roger Dubuis The Swiss watchmaking family introduced the Blossom Velvet Blue this year, with three elaborate interpretations assembled as an exquisite set and nestling in a superbly crafted Marquetry. The Blossom’s expression of ageless sensuality focuses on the emotional and technical prowess of women, exhibited in colour-coordinated timepieces that flaunt 18-carat gold cases, featuring grand-feu-enamel-sculpted flowers flowing over a mother-of-pearl dial, with a bezel set with diamonds for added charm. In pretty pinks and blooming blues, the 36mm Blossom Velvet offers a biretrograde jumping date function, resembling an orchestrated dance.
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Lady Jour des Fleurs, Van Cleef & Arpels Van Cleef & Arpels illustrate their traditional horological expertise and romantic jewellery design essence with the enchanting Lady Jour des Fleurs, which extends its sparkle throughout the piece with its elegant composition in diamonds and coloured stones. The new Poetic Complications collection tells a story about the beauty of the changing seasons through the pierced over-dial, depicting glittering foliage in bright hues of green, yellow, orange and purple. One look at the back of the watch would reveal the magical white gold case-back that encompasses engravings with motifs similar to the dial. The mesmerising high jewellery bracelet is set with a particularly rich selection of diamonds, yellow and pink sapphires, tsavorite and spessartite garnets.
Overseas, Vacheron Constantin The new Overseas watches by Vacheron Constantin embodies the full adventure of the spirit of travel, intertwined with watchmaker’s philosophy of excellence. In collaboration with famed cultural photographer Steve McCurry, the revamped Overseas watch for women employs the notion of eternity with regard to the representation of the history of the world and the expression the time. The stellar complication comes in the form of a perpetual calendar powered by the 1120 QP calibre in an ultra-thin mechanical self-winding movement, revealing the elegance and finesse of the new Overseas with a diamond-encrusted bezel and a rich rose gold finish.
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Reverso Classic, Jaeger-LeCoultre Celebrating its 85th anniversary this year, Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced the Duo and Duetto models in the Reverso Classic collection, enhanced with a sumptuously chic Art Deco appeal. The limited edition with a diamond-encrusted bezel features an entire front side dedicated to the brand’s tradition and expertise, with a brushed and guilloché dial hosting a 24hour day/night indicator at 6 o’clock, The versatile dial of the 2016 Duetto can be changed to an intense royal blue or a sophisticated burgundy, while a choice of three different stone versions embodies a powerful fashion statement.
Tonda 1950 Clarity, Parmigiani Parmigiani Tonda 1950 Clarity remains faithful to the iconoclastic heritage of the maison while creating an exquisite high jewellery watch that enchants the onlooker. The amplified version of an old classic is enhanced with a fully stone-set model with five different sized diamonds, offering a new take on luxury by flaunting 620 diamonds on the mosaic-like dial and an additional 84 on the oversized bedazzled bezel. The dimension and placement of each stone on this timepiece is a result of careful calculation, resulting in a soft transition between the stones to forge an enticing illusion.
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J e w ellery T r end
Take The Rough With The Smooth From L.A. to Dubai, more and more fine jewellery designers are learning to embrace the beauty in imperfect stones to introduce a new wave of fashion-forward collections.
Photographed by Danilo Calilung Corbis
Charm, BIL ARABI
A s m o d e r n - d a y w o m e n , i t ’s f a i r t o s a y
Today, however, we’re starting to see the
t h a t t h e re a re c e r t a i n d e f i n i t i v e j e w e l l e r y
onset of a fine jewellery evolution, with a new
patterns that each tell a story about our
category of contemporary pieces founded by
l i f e a n d pe rson a l st yl e l i k e no o t h e r f o r m o f
a wave of fashion-forward designers, who are
accessory. For as long as we can remember,
set to shake up the industry as we know it. And,
t h e r e ’s a l w a y s b e e n a f i r m d i s t i n c t i o n
while it may come as a surprise to some that a
between fashion-fuelled embellishments and
growing number of women are suddenly starting
delicate fine jewellery, with each ador nment
to crave jewellery that’s imperfect and tactile, to
finding its own unique time and place in our
others, it’s a movement that’s now set in stone.
l i v e s . S o , w h i l e L a n v i n ’s o v e r s i z e d ‘ L o v e ’
Think gems that could be been dug out of a
n e c k l a c e o r Yv e s S a i n t L a u re n t ’s A r t y r i n g
wall or sliced in two before being set – this
w ou l d be ou r go-t o frost i n g f o r o n e e v e n t ,
hotbed of jewellery designers rocking raw,
a diamond De Beers choker would decorate
uncut jewels is now firmly on the radar. One
o u r d é c o l l e t a g e f o r a c o m p l e t e l y d i ff e re n t ,
such designer, Monique Péan, confirms this,
m ore soph i st i c a t e d oc c a si o n .
telling us, “There has been a shift in the concept
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Natural inclusions and irregular shapes that were once considered flaws in these materials are now being viewed as beautifully unique and distinguishing characteristics.
A behind the scenes look in the workshop of MESSIKA
of the perfect diamond or precious stone.
online e-tailer has seen “a strong response
Natural inclusions and irregular shapes that
to fine jewellery and, in particular, rough cut
were once considered flaws in these materials
gemstones”. She goes on to say that she feels
are now being viewed as beautifully unique and
her customers “desire the modern yet luxurious
distinguishing characteristics. These variations
aesthetics from brands such as Diane Kordas,
open the door for designers to explore creative
Susan Foster and Monique Péan. Designers are
ways to highlight a stone’s natural texture and
more adventurous with their creations these
develop new and interesting ways to set them.”
days, coming up with individual pieces that
And it’s not just the newbies – last month,
display the diamonds’ and gemstones’ natural
the De Beers Group announced the value
inclusions and distinct facets”.
of rough diamond sales for the first cycle in
So, why is it that more and more designers
2016 to be up to $520 million, compared to
are relegating perfectly cut gemstones and
just $248 million for the same period in 2015.
choosing to forgo the respected four Cs of
Similarly, Natalie Kingham, Buying Director
diamond buying – colour, cut, clarity and carat
at Matchesfashion.com, told us that the
– and instead are opting for this more avant-
garde approach with cloudy, raw and rough-cut stones? Well, as it goes, statement pieces are very fashion-forward right now, and using an imperfect stone is a great way to get a large stone at a lower price. “I’ve seen rough cuts gain popularity within the jewellery market recently,” says Rosanne Karmes, founder of LA-based fine jewellery brand Sydney Evan. “I think it comes down to two reasons. Firstly, they are a more affordable option compared to the traditional perfected stones. And secondly, there’s been a big resurgence recently of the Bohemian Seventies trend, in which rough cut jewellery was definitely a key look. I personally prefer a more finished, clean look still using the same stones.” But, while Karmes may not be so keen to immediately adopt the trend, there are a handful of others championing it in all its glory. “As a designer, the idea of rough cuts, flat lays and other similarly cut stones is about the artistry and whimsical aspect I can add to a piece of jewellery,” says New York-based jewellery Martin Katz. “For a person with all classically styled jewels and jewellery, owning a piece of that pushes the concepts of convention is a lot of fun and a testament to the high level of taste and sophistication that person has.” We first saw the trend return to the mainstream back in 2014, when Maison Margiela revived its Ligne 12 jewellery line after a five-year hiatus. Playing on the concept of the family heirloom, its Pompadour collection comprises a Ceylon sapphire in an old-fashioned diamond setting at the end of a white gold band. Meanwhile, another trend that has really come into its own are one-of-a-kind diamond slices. Originating in India, they are in complete contrast to stones cut to precise specifications and a list of ideals which you can rarely tell apart. Instead, they have been thinly sliced and contain distinctive inter nal patter ns that make each one completely unique. And they are celebrated so much so today that the Gemmological Institute of America now refers to them as ‘clarity characteristics’ rather than flaws. For them, it is more about the beauty of
(Top to bottom) Earrings, PIPPA SMALL @net-a-porter.com | Ring, PIPPA SMALL @net-a-porter.com | Ring, NADA G at S*uce Rocks
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the piece rather than the beauty of the stone, setting them in a way that creates something completely unique yet refined. Fine jewellery designer Susan Foster agrees, telling us, “When I first started working with imperfect pieces many years ago, I did so because of their rough raw nature, which I found so beautiful. Their imperfections result in something so perfect – where raw meets fine, and their irregularities and inclusions were not defects, but in fact the most attractive part. Simply put, imperfections are interesting.” When it comes to precious gemstones, designs featuring tourmalines and tanzanite are currently stealing the spotlight. Yasmine Haji, founder of Pembe Club jewellery, is one of the growing number of jewellery brands making a feature out of the scratchy inclusions, offering customers a massive collection of tanzanite throughout her designs. “Perhaps rough cuts are not beautiful per se in the traditional sense, as the standardised perceived beauty of a stone is generally comprised by the three Cs. These stones do not generally have any of these characteristics other than colour, but they are beautiful because they are unique. I have a 141 carat rough tanzanite in my collection. It differs from a cut and faceted stone in that you can have hundreds of quasi identical cut and polished stones, whereas you cannot have two same rough stones. Each is unique, original and somewhat still organic. And there is definitely a beauty in that.” And, it’s not just inter national designers – there are a small group of forward-thinking regional designers jumping on the bandwagon, too. Nadine Kanso of BilArabi has taken to using rough cut amethysts in her collections, designing her hugely-praised Alef piece for the Design Miami show. “Rough stones can give an edge and a statement to the piece,” she tells us. “It allows it to be more of an art piece, a sculpture, rather than just a jewel or a piece of jewellery. It becomes something immensely more.” (Top to bottom) Bracelet, MONIQUE PEAN @matchesfashion.com | Earrings, SUSAN FOSTER @matchesfashion.com | Ring with rough auto diamonds, Martin Katz
Similarly, Nada Ghazal loves to use a rough, icy diamond for her label, Nada G, stocked in
It allows it to be more of an art piece, a sculpture, rather than just a jewel or a piece of jewellery. It becomes something immensely more.
the region at the hugely popular S*uce Rocks.
silver’s process of tarnishing so it looks old
“While this is my favourite stone, I love using
and vintage – is also quickly picking up pace
all types of rough cuts, too,” she says. “I love
for those seeking unique pieces on a smaller
the way each rough cut piece takes on its
budget. Because the blackening is a surface
own character – each one is different and
treatment, it wears off in raised spots and the
tells its own story, fitting with other rough
black remains in grooves. This is something
cut stones so distinctively. I love combining
set to get much more popular this year, too,
different diamonds with brushed gold in both
so watch this space.
yellow and raw white, there is no other stone
So, while there will still be the traditionalists,
that fits better.”
who are sure to resist anything less than
For customers embracing these imperfections,
perfect when it comes to their fine jewellery
they are sure to be enamoured by another hot
collections, perhaps it’s time to look to the
trend that’s starting to sweep the industry
new, move with the times and learn to see the
now, too – blackening metals to make them
beauty in the imperfect. It is definitely there,
look older. Oxidisation – the speeding up of
and it’s most certainly something to marvel at.
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Ha i r a nd B eau t y Tr e nds
Hair Beauty ss16
CHANEL
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BLUE-EYED GIRL
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From graphic swipes of indigo mascara at Mary Katrantzou to the hazy superhero folds of Chanel, the many hues of blue are here to stay.
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1. MARY KATRANTZOU | 2. MISSONI | 3. MONIQUE LHUILLIER | 4. CHANEL
BACK WITH A BANG
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No more fearing the shear this summer, as hairstylists ditch long tresses and opt for razor sharp, choppy bangs in short, edgy styles.
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1. ALEXANDER WANG | 2. LOUIS VUITTON | 3. SIBLING | 4. ACNE STUDIOS
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1. TADASHI SHOJI | 2. AQUILANO.RIMONDI | 3. YDE | 4. PRADA
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EXTRA TERRESTRIAL Pat McGrath’s head-turning gold lips for Prada, along with many versions of steely eyeliners across spring fashion weeks, made futuristic waves with a metal finish.
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1. BLUGIRL | 2. DIOR | 3. CHLOÉ | 4. FENDI
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A TOUCH OF GLOSS A healthy gloss is always on-trend. We’re looking at transparent lustrous finishes from Dior and Fendi, teamed with a sun-kissed blush for a flawless summer glow.
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GRUNGE GLAM
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Inspired by Nineties grunge cool icon Kate Moss, the worn-in smudged eyeliner made a comeback at Chloé and Simone Rocha, with clean skin and tousled hair to match.
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1. BCBG MAX AZRIA | 2. CHLOÉ | 3. EMILIO PUCCI | 4. ELISABETTA FRANCHI
PINK ACCENTS
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This summer’s key look is the futuristic geishalike exaggerated pink blush that goes beyond the cheeks, as seen at Hussein Chalayan and Olympia Le Tan.
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1. OLYMPIA LE TAN | 2. HUSSEIN CHALAYAN | 3. DEREK LAM | 4. RAHUL MISHRA
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1. STELLA JEAN | 2. CREATURES OF THE WIND | 3. DRIES VAN NOTEN | 4. MAX MARA
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THE RETRO QUIFF The newer version of the Eighties tomboy quiff is tamed and uber feminine. Take notes from Stella Jean and Dries Van Noten for ladylike rolled-in puffs.
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1. SHIATZY CHEN | 2. ANNA SUI | 3. EMPORIO ARMANI | 4. BURBERRY
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UP THE AMP The trick to achieving the perfectly imperfect oxblood lip as seen at Burberry is to leave the edges soft and blurry around the perimeter for a fuller and stronger allure.
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TIME TO SHINE
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Though a dramatic eye can be intimidating, teaming a shimmery lid with clean makeup can sustain the focus on your sparkling eyes, like at Giambattista Valli and Delpozo.
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1. CREATURES OF THE WIND | 2. JOHN RICHMOND | 3. GIAMBATTISTA VALLI | 4. DELPOZO
TAKING SIDES
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Sleek side parts exude elegance like no other. Marni models wore their hair sharp with a dip, while Anya Hindmarch created a sleek, low-slung ponytail to master a controlled look.
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1. SALVATORE FERRAGAMO | 2. ROBERTO CAVALLI | 3. ANYA HINDMARCH | 4. MARNI
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1. VIONNET | 2. TANYA TAYLOR | 3. OSKLEN | 4. ETRO
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ROMANTIC UP-DOS loose-ended twirling topknots. Take styling cues from chic up-dos at Etro and loose chignons at Vionnet.
Compiled by Aishwarya Tyagi.
Overwrought buns get a makeover this spring as
1. LOUIS VUITTON | 2. MARNI | 3. DAKS | 4. AU JOUR LE JOUR
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LASHING OUT Twiggy’s iconic graphic lashes come to mind as Louis Vuitton and Marni go a step further with individually fixed falsies on the top and lower set lashes.
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B e au ty n ote
Light as a Feather All the biggest beauty trends start with a lightweight base this spring. From Isabel Marant’s stripped back beauty to Gucci’s bright and plumped skin, the only way to wear your base is with a fresh outlook. Opt for an airy foundation with second skin coverage that protects with SPF.
Left to right: BURBERRY, Fresh Glow Foundation, SPF 15 | GUERLAIN, Lingerie de Peau Invisible Skin-Fusion Foundation, SPF 20 | LANCOME, Teint Miracle Bare Skin Foundation Natural Light Creator, SPF 15 | CHANEL, Les Beiges, Healthy Glow Foundation, SPF 25
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S o c i ety B elles
How would you describe your style? I find my personal style to be a combination of sensual femininity and high-fashion elegance – with a touch of sporty edge or a bit of a fun twist. What changes do you make to your skincare regime as you move from winter into summer? I always try to make sure I moisturise my skin, use sunscreen and drink lots of water, whatever season it may be. During winter, I pay extra attention to hydrating my skin, because the cold weather, rain and wind can eventually takes its toll! To stay hydrated, I use my dad’s raw honey as a face mask every now and then. When summer arrives, I try to be out in the sun as much as possible – while wearing sunscreen of course – and get all of that Vitamin D. This is the perfect natural way to take care of your skin during summer. What’s the best piece of beauty advice you’ve ever received? Because my mum is a hairdresser, I learned some things from her. In general, I don’t experiment with my hair too much and I don’t wash it that often. Besides that, the best beauty advice I can give you is to never sleep with your makeup on, eat healthy, drink lots of water, extra-moisturise your skin and always use sunscreen. You have Persian heritage – what beauty lessons have been passed on to you from previous generations? I like the fact that my mum is always looking for the next best thing. She knew about the benefits of goji berries and ginger before it had been discovered by everyone else. Something that has been passed on by previous generations is ginger tea with Negin Mirsalehi
lemon. This has always been used by older generations and is something traditionally
Beauty and Body Secrets with
Negin Mirsalehi
You’ve recently created your own hair oil,
With nearly three million followers on Instagram, Negin Mirsalehi is garnering attention due to her enviable sense of style, Persian roots and business acumen. The style blogger and beauty entrepreneur gives us an insight into her beauty and health regime.
to become a hairdresser. She was not
Gisou. Why did you decide to do this? When my parents came to the Netherlands almost 30 years ago, my mom was studying pleased with the hair products available in stores at the time and decided to make her own hair products that satisfied her needs. Because my dad has always been a passionate beekeeper, my mum knew about the health benefits of honey — it contains
Photographed by Annick Meijer. Interview by Susan Devaney
Persian, I think.
Negin in her bee garden.
hundreds of vitamins, minerals, and anti-
What do you do to keep fit and active?
nutrition, without taking extra vitamins and
oxidants. With all of these natural health
I try to keep a good balance between
supplements. Whenever I am travelling or
properties buzzing around, she knew for
healthy eating and exercising. I get easily
have a busy schedule and need to boost my
sure that my dad’s honey was going to be
motivated when I see the results from my
immune system, I take Propolis.
the key ingredient for her products and she
workouts, such as Pilates or tennis. When
was adamant about keeping them free of
I do not have enough time to go to the
What’s the secret to your healthy
parabens and sulphates. It took my mum
gym, I go for a run and get a boost from
glowing skin?
years to develop her own products and we
the beautiful natural environment or from
I think a healthy skin is solely dependent on
would only use them within the family. Now
a great workout playlist.
good nutrition, hydration and sleep. Also, whenever I find a beauty product I’m satisfied
I wanted to share my favourite product with
Photographed by Davide Gallizio.
my followers, which is honey-infused hair oil.
Describe your typical everyday eating
with, I try not switch to another one too often.
habits.
Why fix what isn’t broken?
What is it about the honey?
When I am back home, the first thing I do in
Next to having hundreds of vitamins and
the morning is drink one glass of water and
Where would you say you’re at your
minerals, I really believe in my dad’s honey
eat one teaspoon of honey. It is one of my
happiest?
because it is also known to be a natural
father’s recommendations. In general, what I
On a beach or when I’m with my family.
humectant. This means that it attracts and
try to do is eat healthy, eat lots of vegetables,
holds moisture, which revitalises your hair.
fruits, fish and pasta. I find it important that
Where’s your favourite place in the world
The honey infused hair oil keeps my hair
everything I eat is of nutritional value, but I
and why?
in great condition, because I can use it for
also never want to deprive myself of food or
I think this would be my dad’s bee garden,
multiple purposes on a daily basis. I use it
eliminate things from my diet. I just know to
because I’ve been spending time there
after showering, before styling to take care
eat everything in moderation.
since I was young, and I have a lot of good memories from these moments.
of my hair, after styling to give my hair a healthy glow, and I mix it in with my hair
What vitamins and supplements do you
masks to create a stronger effect so my hair
take, and why?
What do you do to relax?
feels incredible afterwards.
I always try to get enough vitamins from
I do yoga, boxing and take Pilates classes.
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H e alth A nd B e au t y Ne ws
Kristen Stewart For Chanel Beauty Kristen Stewart, the champion of the ultimate smokey eye and Karl Lagerfeld’s muse, will now front the Chanel beauty campaign for the upcoming season, captured by famed fashion photographer Mario Testino. Donning a seductive gaze with a glittering silver lid and her dazzling green eyes piercing through the bold power brows – we’re predicting revelations of grunge glam for the summer ahead.
What Is The Alkaline Diet? Don’t be thrown off by the intimidating name of the popular food plan that A-listers can’t stop raving about. The game-changing alkaline diet is a nourishment regime that simply focuses on pH balancing foods, like fruits, nuts, legumes, and veggies, while steering clear of acidic groups such as meat, dairy and wheat. The diet promises improvement in energy levels and enhancing a clear skin tone. We’re sold.
The Smarter Way To Meditate In this hyper-distracted digital age, we look to four meditation wellness apps for a daily dose of zen and some much needed time-out. • Headspace A beginner’s handbook to the basics of meditation, Headspace offers wellness techniques for every lifestyle. It keeps you on track with regular reminders to ‘breathe’, and offers mindful tips to better your lifestyle.
• Buddhify The wheel with rainbow-coloured segments guides you through different steps of meditation, embodying key elements of postBuddhist wellness to adjust in your daily life.
• Stop, Breathe and Think Promoting calmness, compassion, and clarity, the app offers tailor-made meditative tips, perfect for some self-reflection and relaxation at the end of a stressful workday.
• iSleep One of the smartest tools to fight insomnia, iSleep helps you create your very own sleep programme with a variety of calming sounds, along with guided meditative techniques that guarantee a good night’s sleep.
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2
3 1 4 Get Her Look:
Sun-Stripping We were there at the fashion frontline, watching models at Alberta Ferretti, Etro and House of Holland fake a sun-strip in the middle of September. This year is all about the bodacious browns to fake a vacation in the tropics. With a blunt brush, gently apply bronzer from cheek to cheek, across your nose, and then blend it in for a more natural hue to hit the high points on your face that are the first to catch a tan. Let the rest of your face be clean with minimal makeup to ensure your best version of a bronzed goddess.
1. Bronzer Brush, Charlotte Tilbury | 2. Teint Couture Blurring Foundation Balm Broad Spectrum 15, Givenchy | 3. Blush Bronzer duo in Hot Sand, Nars | 4. Le Sourcil Pro brow pencil, LancĂ´me | 5. Sheer lip colour in Baby Lips, Laura Mercier
5
Karlie Kloss makes a case for sun-kissed perfection
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Armed Forces
The new popular workout with fixed battle ropes or heavy ropes does more than just make waves. Every action with the instrument not only helps tighten and strengthen arm muscles, but also improves mind-body coordination and reaction time. Contact Elevation Fitness (04) 3699940
With bare shoulders and arms at the forefront of fashion trends of the season, we compile some fun workouts to get you started.
JetĂŠ, pliĂŠ, and go! The ballet inspired workout promises chiselled ballerina arms using graceful and poised dance techniques to target muscles in your limbs you never knew existed. Contact FlyBarreTel: (04) 4232544
Burning up to 600 calories per session, a good boxing workout will tone your triceps, biceps and shoulders with every punch. This supermodel approved power packed exercise builds stamina and keeps you on your toes throughout. Contact MMA Fitness Centre (04) 3675077
1
5 2
4 3 The Blooming
Garden As spring has officially sprung, we’ve rounded up
our favourite beauty products with the essence of flora freshly plucked out of a blossoming garden. Mother’s Day gifting ideas perhaps?
1. Nasturtium & Clover Herb Garden cologne, Jo Malone | 2. Parsley Seed Anti-Oxidant Facial Toner, Aesop | 3. Valentina Poudre, Valentino | 4. Diorskin Nude Air Glowing Gardens, Dior | 5. REPLICA Promenade in the Gardens, Maison Martin Margiela
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M OJEH HEA LTH
The Calm After
The Storm In its last issue, Mojeh took an in-depth look at anxiety and its rise among modern-day women. But, it doesn’t have to affect your life forever – we turn towards the light at the end of the tunnel…
of help to cure the causes of anxiety. But, before we get into that, it’s time first to take a look at the hard stuff. With the various stigmas surrounding certain types of medication, you’d be forgiven if just thinking about taking anti-anxiety pills makes you feel even more anxious. Yet, for some, it’s the only effective way to fully alleviate those pressures. Merely Me is a published health author, who has experienced first-hand examples of how medication could cause life-altering changes for the better, when she came across the leader of a group she attended specifically for people who suffer from social anxiety. “He told us all the story of how he was once confined to his apartment out of fear,” she writes. “He relied upon his sister and other family members to bring him food and other essentials. In amazement, I asked the question everyone wanted to know – ‘How did you overcome
When one of the world’s most famous actresses
this?’ This is when he confessed that therapy helped
admitted to the public that not only has she suffered
a lot, but medication helped even more. It was the
from anxiety since she was a teen, but further, that
combination of these two treatments that gave him
she was not ashamed, she struck a gallant blow
his life back.”
against the evil power of stigma that surrounds the
But, for every person who benefits from medication
mental illness. Your celebrity BFF Jennifer Lawrence
to treat anxiety, there will be an equal number or
may come across as one pretty fearless alpha
more who see no benefit at all. As such, there are
female, but as it turns out, she’s not immune to the
regular warnings on many antidepressants, saying
constant nervous feeling, sweating palms and rapidly
that you should look out for mood changes, like an
increasing heart rate that studies show affects 18
increase in anxiety, depression and fear – and the
percent of adults at some point in their lives. And
even greater risk of suicidal behaviour in children and
while for Lawrence, it was a combination of therapy
teens. Also, taking into account side effects, the risk
and medication that helped her deal with the stress
of dependence on some medications and especially
of becoming a public figure, there has been a vast
the cost of both drugs and counselling sessions
amount of research that has gone into the different
coupled together, it’s safe to say that for some, it
ways to overcome the disorder.
might look like there’s no way out.
From meditation, yoga and deep breathing techniques
But don’t fear, as ever in-depth studies have started
to exercise and supplements, experts the world over
to show that this might not be the case, and that you
have dedicated their time to finding natural methods
don’t necessarily have to go down the medication
Need No One, Photographed by Alice Rosati, MOJEH Issue 29
route to clear your anxiety for good. According to
shifting concentration on the breath. It is both a form
Yash Saran, owner of Dubai’s new 136.1 yoga studio,
of meditation as well as a mind and body balancing
anxiety can rear its ugly head through five different
therapy.” Many studies have proved that meditation
stages. From panic attacks and phobias to Obsessive
can be indispensable for settling anxiety problems,
Compulsive Disorder, Post-Traumatic Stress Disorder
as it can help calm a busy mind and release negative
and Generalised Anxiety Disorder (or a general feeling
thoughts. “Continuous practice of yoga cultivates
of angst on a daily basis), effects can vary in their
a mental sense of quietude and deep physical and
severity and there isn’t a one-size-fits-all method for
emotional relaxation,” he tells us.
cure. “One of the most effective ways I’ve found to
Similarly, according to the Anxiety Disorders
deal with anxiety is the practice of Yoga Nidra,” he
Association of America, regular exercise can be just
tells us. And, as such, celebrities including Emma
as effective for some in alleviating symptoms, for
Stone and Adele both attribute meditation with helping
hours at a time. One such advocate of the ‘sweating-
them overcome their fears, with the former constantly
it-out method’ is actress Lena Dunham, who’s talked
encouraging people to take deep breaths and live in
at length about how exercise has been a godsend
the moment. “Yoga Nidra allows us to reach the most
in helping her treat her much-documented OCD. “To
profound level of relaxation possible,” he continues. “It
those struggling with anxiety, OCD or depression,”
benefits the practitioner on all five levels of existence
she once wrote in an Instagram post, “I know it’s
(physical, mental, emotional, psychological and
mad annoying when people tell you to exercise, and
spiritual) and helps induce a deep, meditative state by
it took me about 16 medicated years to listen. I’m
320
glad I did.” And if you need more proof, a recent experiment by researchers at Princeton University discovered evidence that exercise does indeed alter brain activity to reduce stress and anxiety. As we all know, it releases feel-good endorphins into the body, increasing temperature for both a calming and uplifting effect. And, according to other studies, regular exercise can work just as well as medication for a number of sufferers. But, by a similar token, like all forms of therapy, the effect can vary. So, while a 30-minute jog five times a week may work wonders for one person, for another, it may not make a strong impact on long-term mental health. It’s all about finding what works for you. Also, have you ever thought about freezing the stress out of you? Strange, we know, but bear with us. For those not in the know, Cryotherapy is renowned as
attacks a day and was treated with antipsychotic and
a treatment that can help with a number of physical
antidepressant drugs) and subsequently developed
conditions, including muscle injuries, weight loss,
his own method of therapy that treated anxiety, panic
inflammation and swelling. A lesser known fact,
attacks, phobias and OCD. In turn, he published a
however, is that it doesn’t just help to alleviate
book and a CD, and to this day, he’s helped more
physical conditions, but it prompts physiological
than 136,000 anxiety sufferers worldwide. His method
changes in the body, too. “While cold as a treatment
outlines nine pillars or guiding mantras, which include
for anxiety isn’t something that would normally come
advice to stop talking about, researching and holding
to mind,” Benny Parihar, managing partner at CRYO
on to memories of anxiety, and to start diverting the
tells us, “Cryotherapy is actually a scientifically-known
mind by getting busy. So, while there is no quick fix,
method to reduce anxiety and even help depression.”
simple methods such as the ‘dive reflex’ – taking a
Cryotherapy is the practice of exposing the body
towel, soaking it in cold water and placing it on the
to extremely cold temperatures of -140C. “The
back of your neck, and ‘cold apple’ – taking an apple
body goes into shock mode, which prompts it to
from the fridge and eating it very slowly to slow your
do everything it can in its power to stay warm,” he
breathing – are just two tips that he promises can
continues. “During this process, the body releases
help divert a panic attack.
a rush of endorphins, which are otherwise known as
Therapy worked for Whoopi Goldberg, who for years
the happiness hormone. These signal positive signs
grappled with a specific form of anxiety called airline
to the brain which results in a feeling of euphoria. In
travel phobia. In 2011, she admitted that she had
fact, medical studies have found that is doesn’t just
avoided flying for nearly 30 years after witnessing
impact a person’s mood while they’re undergoing
a mid-air collision from a hotel balcony, and would
the treatment – it can last for hours.” What’s more,
only travel cross-country via bus or train. Finally, the
doctors in Poland recently conducted a study to
actress opted for a form of exposure therapy – an
compare patients of depression who underwent
airline programme targeted at anxious flyers. “Some
Cryotherapy against those who didn’t. The results
people are meant to fly,” she told CNN. “And I don’t
found a significant reduction in symptoms of anxiety
know if I am meant to fly, but I do it now.”
for patients who had the treatment, and you can’t
So, whether you choose to opt for the au naturel
argue with science. So, next time you’re suffering
method or prefer to take pills to help your symptoms
from a major case of FOMO, maybe you should book
subside, there’s always light at the end of the tunnel.
yourself an appointment.
And while there are risks to taking medication to
If you’re looking to counselling as a valid treatment
treat your symptoms, and you might not be the
method, you only have to look at Charles Linden, a
biggest gym bunny around, there’s also a risk in
former TV producer from the United Kingdom, who
allowing anxiety to hold you hostage and rob you
suffered from chronic anxiety for more than seven
of enjoying life. Keep your chin up – there will be
years (by his mid-20s, he was having up to 10 panic
calm after the storm, you just need to keep fighting.
Photographed by Kazuyoshi Nomachi, Corbis.
322 M o j eh T r av el
An Unlocked
Iran is known for many things, from beautiful architecture and luscious greenery to its Islamic art. But, as the country’s relationship with the West begins to warm, focus has fallen on the city of Tehran and its burgeoning cultural scene. By Susan Devaney
324
The snow-capped mountains undulate high over the skyline.
British Airways has reinstated their direct London to Iran
Skiers take to the slopes with ease as they glide down the
flight and the Foreign Office has declared it safe enough
glossy white icicle-packed powdery snow. Below them,
for travellers. The capital of Iran has now removed
archaeological treasures lay hidden. Vehicles shudder along
billboards around the city containing anti-American
jam-packed streets and a modern skyline rises amongst
sentiment. The poster campaign, called A Gallery As
the hustle and bustle. Markets open, full of vivid enamel
Big As a Town, has instead put in place reproductions
dishes, delicate painted jewellery boxes and scrumptiously
of works from world-renowned artists, such as Picasso,
sweet Gaz nougat. A modern Tehran we’ve heard so much
Matisse, Van Gogh, Munch and Hockney. Thanks to these
about – but know very little of its reality – is unlocking.
changes, Iran can now be considered one of the most
Are young people positive about the recent changes in
stable countries in the Middle East.
Iran? We ask Tehran-based food blogger Faridah Mosawi
Like opening a golden gate, Tehran has a lot to offer. The
of faridahkitchen.com.“Yes, of course, if people view these
first thing that many tourists may find surprising is the style
changes in the correct way we will see a good change in
of its citizens. “According to the Islamic law, women should
Iran.” Tourists are flocking to discover the cultural riches
wear the hijab. Despite this, women have their own style in
of Tehran. And those with a particularly adventurous
Tehran. For example, many Iranian designers design unique
spirit are in luck.
clothes that are suitable for their culture and at the same time
The implementation of the nuclear deal and the lifting
very fashionable,” says Faridah. Under Islamic law, Iranian
of sanctions on Iran as well as prisoner exchange have
women must wear loose-fitting clothing of dark colours, and
dawned a new beginning between East and West relations.
a hijab must be worn to cover at least part of a woman’s hair.
Previously, the British Embassy in Tehran had been closed
But now, Iranian women are increasingly finding smart and
since 2011 due to it being stormed by protestors. But now,
stylish solutions in order to remain up to date with the world
Photographed by Kazuyoshi Nomachi, Corbis.Photographed by Sarvenaz Hashtroudi.
The beautiful architecture of Imam Mosque.
Stain glass windows are a common feature in Tehran.
of fashion while respecting the values of their religion. In March last year, the country held its first ever fashion week in the capital. Sadaf Tahvildarzadeh, an Iranian fashion designer living in Tehran, started creating her own designs around the year 2000, shortly after the Islamic Revolution abolished many of the Westernised fashions that flourished in the Eighties and Nineties – she’s definitely one to watch as restrictions lift. Or take the Instagram account (Facebook and Twitter are banned) of The Tehran Times – a glorious insight into the true style of the younger generations of the city; the Tumblr of The Tehran Times, edited by Araz Fazaeli (also an up-and-coming fashion designer), showcases captured moments of fashionable individuals on the streets of Tehran. Hijabs in bold colours and vibrant prints have started to appear. Fazaeli is determined to change the views of the outside world, telling the Atlantic Post: “They believe what they see in the news, and even though a lot of it is true, there is much more to see.” There’s a wealth of culture to experience. “Good restaurants (to taste traditional Iranian food), oldstyle markets, monuments and museums. Finally, the hospitality of people in Tehran makes it special in comparison to other places. They are an affable and agreeable people,” says Faridah. Eating out is a main highlight of visiting Tehran – from the Moslem restaurant in Tehran Grand Bazaar, Kakh Restaurant in Fereshteh to the Chai bar and SPU in Darakeh – there’s plenty to pick from to experience a modern Iranian culinary treat. Many people who have previously visited the country speak highly of its welcoming people and great food. From devouring small green tomato plums coated in salted herb paste and bowls of local faloodeh (a lemon noodle ice cream) to Chelow kabab (rice served with roasted meat – barg, koobideh, joojeh, shishleek, soltani and chenjeh), there’s plenty of dishes to satisfy The mosaic design of Friday Mosque.
326
All street style photos courtesy of Fatemah Mosawi and Tehran Times.Ski slope image photographed by Sarvenaz Hashtroudi.Image of Milad Tower photographed by Amir Sadeghi, Corbis. Image of Azadi Tower photographed by Massimo Pizzotti, Corbis.
328
Blogger Fatemah Mosawi.
any traveller. The people of Tehran are also partial to a picnic or two. Lois Pryce, author of ‘Lois on the Loose and Red Tape and White Knuckles’, travelled the entire country in 2013 by motorbike. “You find that you just can’t eat any more food. It’s mad. I had heard Iranian hospitality was legendary, and it really is. There was none of the dour religiosity you usually hear about,” she told the Telegraph UK newspaper once she’d completed the adventure of a lifetime. “My bike is still out there with some wonderful people I stayed with in Tehran. I’m hoping to go back next year and visit the areas I missed,” she said. The art market is booming. Again, with implemented changes, the National Museum of Art is now exhibiting works that were previously under cover. From Jackson Pollock and Mark Rothko to Robert Rauschenberg, the lineup is quite amazing. Now worth billions, all pieces were originally bought in the 1970s under Shah Reza Pahlavi. He wanted to modernise the country and asked his wife, Empress Farah Pahlavi, to acquire the art. It is considered to be one of the greatest collections of contemporary Western masterpieces outside of Europe and North America. The cultural sites of the city are also a must-see. Golestan Palace, comprising a complex of 12 museums, exhibits the wealth of successive Persian rulers. Sadly, many of the original buildings are no longer standing, having been torn down by various opposing parties. Inside, the Hall of Mirrors awaits, inspired by the Shah’s 1873 visit to Versailles in France, along with a Marble Throne veranda. Or then there’s the Milad Tower, built in 2007, the tallest tower in the whole country. It may not rival Dubai’s Burj Khalifa, but stands tall at 435 metres. With multiple viewing platforms, it’s ideal to see the city’s great views and mountainous landscapes that surround the metropolis at sunset. The imperial The Pond House in Tehran.
Street style photo courtesy of Fatemah Mosawi. Golestan Palace photographed by Ivan Vdovin, Corbis. The Pond House photographed by Chris Bradley, Corbis.
Tile work inside the Golestan Palace in Tehran.
palaces of Tehran are legendary. The Friday mosque, a
around seven to eight months of the year. According to the
Seljuk marvel of the early 11th century – with vaults of
Telegraph UK it ‘aims to attract 20 million visitors a year
delicate bricks and domes of mesmerising perfection – is
by 2025, generating up to $30 billion in revenues. Foreign
a reminder of the architectural revolution in Europe of the
visitor numbers are currently estimated at around four million’
Gothic era. Then there’s the 17th century Imam or Shah
And, businesses are burgeoning too. AccorHotels, one of
mosque, with a dome covered in dazzling blue mosaics that
the world’s leading hotel groups, has been linked to two
create a haze of beauty, and the Sheikh Lutfullah mosque of
four-star hotels opening in Tehran by 2018.
the same period, a great jewel built by Shah Abbas for his
Writing for the Telegraph UK newspaper in 2014, journalist
own private use. Lastly, the striking modern building of the
Benedict Brogan described: “Tehran is an exhausting,
Azadi Tower has garnered much admiration. Now, Iran has
turbulent force, addled by pollution, insane traffic and
19 sites on the Unesco World Heritage Site list – the most
extremes of wealth and poverty. It is surprisingly modern,
of any Middle Eastern country – with two new additions this
its residents living off cashpoints and the clean and efficient
year of Maymand in central Iran, and the archaeological site
metro system.” But, it has more to offer than that.
of Susa. But, just a stone’s throw away from Tehran is an
Have you noticed any differences in tourism, expats and
abundance of awe-inspiring sites and places to see, too.
the world’s view of Iran since the changes have been
Interestingly, it’s the ski slopes people love. In previous
implemented? I asked. “It’s early days and more time is needed
months, Vogue has pondered: Could Tehran be the next
to see significant changes, but the people hope to see better
Aspen? It even claimed that ‘Iran could become one of the
results about the changes,” concluded Faridah. And change
most appealing ski destinations in the world’. It’s easy to
is coming. Persia’s wonders may be spellbinding, but modern
see why. Tochal, known as the ‘roof of Tehran’, lies at 3,964
Tehran, as it begins to open its treasures to tourists again and
metres and offers keen skiers a resort laden with snow
allow for a more cosmopolitan society, is endlessly fascinating.
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cultu r e club
State of Art As it continues to attract art lovers from around the world, this year’s Art Dubai looks set to celebrate the artistry of women like never before.
Celebrating its tenth edition, Art Dubai is showcasing more galleries in the UAE than ever before. Since its inception, the annual exhibition has hosted an array of international artists every March. Planned from the 16th to the 19th of the same month, this year is no different, with more countries and nationalities being represented than ever before: 93 galleries, 40 countries, 500 artists and 70 nationalities. Positioned across three programmes – marker, contemporary and modern – each one is delivering something different. The Contemporary section features commercial galleries working in the primary market and established for at least two years. The works presented cover all artistic media, including painting, drawing, sculpture, installation, video, photography and performance. Every year, the Marker programme focuses solely on one strong theme. Curated this year by Ringo Bunaon, it will celebrate the Philippines. Artists from Thousandfold, 98-B, Project20, Post Gallery and featured work by Roberto Chabet will be exhibited. Modern is entirely devoted to artists hailing from the Middle East, Africa and South Asia. This year, it will heavily feature female artists – strong, pioneering women. From Huguette Caland and Laure Ghorayeb to Maliheh Afnan, the works of both established and emerging artists will take forefront.
As the only daughter of the first president of the Republic of Lebanon, Huguette Caland has carved a noteworthy career for herself. Born in Lebanon’s Beirut in 1931, she began painting at the tender age of 16, learning from Italian painter Fernando Manetti. After studying in Beirut, she resided in Paris for around 17 years and then finally settled in California. Crossing continents and cities, her work has been showcased at multiple galleries.
Working as an art journalist from 1962 to 1979, Laure Ghorayeb gained an esteemed reputation as an art critic. Born in 1931 in Deir al-Kamar, Lebanon, she’s published poetry in both French and Arabic, and in 1967, won an award at the Biennale of Paris. Her artwork, to be showcased at this year’s Art Dubai, is very distinctive and often portrayed using a muted colour palette.
Born in Haifa, Palestine artist Maliheh Afnan moved to Beirut to study for a BA from the American University of Beirut. In 1956, she moved to the USA to further her studies at the Corcoran School of Art, Washington DC. She’s exhibited in galleries from Kuwait to Paris and London, and has previously said she always starts her work with a single line: “In a way, I find I write my painting.”
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cultu r e club
Being
Rotana
Rotana Tarabzouni possesses a powerful voice in more ways than one. We meet the L.A.-based singer songwriter from Saudi Arabia, who can move an audience to tears, features in the BBC’s 100 Women of 2015 and believes in a world with no boundaries.
Rotana wears skirt Alexander Wang, sweatshirt Opening Ceremony at Symphony, ear cuff Crezus at S*uce. Photographed by Michelle at The Factory ME at Iris Dubai
334 When did you know you wanted to be a singer? I’ve always sung, ever since I was very young, but truly, growing up in Saudi Arabia, I’d never looked at it as something that was possible. I never even really allowed myself to dream about it, yet I felt that there was something inside me that wasn’t fulfilled. What was your first break? By a strange twist of events, I was in Boston visiting friends and I was in the car – I remember it was 3am – and I heard this open casting call for a talent agency. I went, not knowing why I was doing it. There were about 300 people there, all professional actors and singers with their headshots, and there I was with my college resume and Facebook picture. The owner of the casting agency met with all of us and when I sang, she cried. It was the first time in my life that I had seen the effect of my voice and how I had moved this person to tears even though she knew nothing about me. I went back to my desk job, but I had developed an itch that just wouldn’t go away. I went to India for two months to get away from all the noise and really listen to the voice inside of me, because when I finally had the courage to tell my family and friends I wanted to sing everyone was like, ‘that’s cute’ or ‘you’re crazy’ or ‘that’s not acceptable’. I just knew that I needed to try. What does the creative process look like for you? I try to write every single day. A lot of people think that creativity is something that pours out of you and sure, there are days when that happens, but it is also a practice. I write for at least an hour a day. I’ll sit down at my piano, I play it very primitively, but it’s usually about an emotion that I’m feeling. If I don’t channel my emotions into music, I would go crazy. People ask whether the words or the melody comes first – they come together with me. It’s a very hard process to explain. It’s like a painter; he couldn’t possibly tell you how he made that painting. You have to trust the process and not judge it. What’s been a career high so far? Being featured in the BBC’s 100 Women of 2015. I
Rotana wears jacket, Arwa al Banawi, slip dress, Sea NY at S*uce, shoes her own
do this is to inspire women all over the world to take ownership over their lives and not allow society or any man to tell them what they can and cannot do. I also worked with President Jimmy Carter to promote his book, A Call to Action: Women, Religion, Violence and Power, about ending violence against women. He
The Travel Notes
The Style Notes
Where will we find you this summer? I’m probably going to be on tour, likely around the US to start with.
Favourite designer? Elizabeth & James
Favourite place in the world to be? In a recording studio. Favourite holiday destination? Peru.
Favourite outfit? I wear a lot of stuff that is vintage and from the flea market.
Ideal travel companion? Me.
On-stage style? I tend to wear crop tops on stage coupled with very masculine pants or a masculine blazer because my energy is quite dark: There’s a lot of angst in my performance.
Relaxing beach holiday or city break? Beach, definitely beach!
Style icon? Banks.
believes that women are the hope for our future and I believe the same. Really a highlight is just having made a name for myself in the industry where I’m sitting and writing songs in the same room as songwriters whose songs are on the radio. You talk often about issues affecting women in Saudi; do you feel under pressure as a spokesperson on this subject? I think that whenever anybody is independent and a true individual, who is not playing by anybody else’s rules, that can always be looked at as a rebellion. I believe in
Interview and styling by Natalie Trevis. Photographed by Michelle at The Factory ME at Iris Dubai.
thought that was such an honour. A big reason why I
everybody’s right to be a full individual. Saudi Arabia is a country with a lot of restrictions, but I think that the restrictions that hold us back are very universal. Mine are amplified, but pluck out anybody in the world and they will tell you that they feel a pressure to be a certain way. I can’t imagine having a platform without using it to talk about something. I feel a great sense of responsibility to be honest, but at the same time I’m just doing me and writing my music. Does these issues influence you creatively? One hundred percent. I have a song called Never Going Back, which talks about never going back to a place in your mind that bows to complacency and never going back to a place where you just accept what people tell you about how the world is and how it works. How have you dealt with criticism about your career? I feel no negative feelings towards people who give me criticism. I do and will always go back home to Saudi Arabia. I think that when you make the decision to unapologetically – and as loudly as you can – be yourself and really not mute any of your colours, it shakes people up and forces them to meet parts of themselves that they weren’t necessarily ready to meet. I think that people are in a zombie-like state and they don’t even realise what they are missing and how much fuller life can be. I’m somebody that’s telling them, look! I’m happy that people are angry; at least it’s a feeling. How do you feel about how things are progressing for women in Saudi? I will always be critical and think that things are moving at a snail’s pace in Saudi Arabia, but I will also tell you that there’s an artistic renaissance that is bubbling in the region. My generation is learning how to become organised. People like me and Raha Moharrak and a Saudi prince called Farhad Al Saud (who has set up acompany called NA3M Games) and artists like Manal Al Dowayan, all of us have reached out to each other and agreed we are so much stronger when we link forces and when we organise ourselves. I think that as we become more organised and structured we can build a solid foundation.
Rotana wears top, trousers and shoes, Louis Vuitton
Who are some of the strong women in your life? My mother. The fact that she can say ‘I love you and I’m proud of you’, even though she doesn’t understand, is huge. And every Saudi woman who has reached out. There’s such a sense of camaraderie with these women, who are using their time, energy and power to lift me up. I think that is the most inspiring thing. What’s the plan for the rest of the year? In March, I’m going to be launching an Indiegogo campaign, which is a crowd-funding platform, to fund my first EP. I’m finally going to put the music out! Also in the works is a film called My Driver and I, by filmmaker and actress Ahd Kamal. It’s about a teenage Saudi girl whose driver becomes her best friend and father figure. I’m going to be playing the lead in that film, which is very exciting.
The Music Notes Which song of yours means the most to you and why? Never Going Back, with the chorus ‘I ’m c a l l i ng l i ke a wo l f t o t he ni g ht ’. I c l o s e m y e y e s a n d s e e m y 1 6 - y e a ro l d s e l f a n d h o w s c a re d s h e w a s o f l o o k i n g a n d b e i n g d i ff e re n t t h a n e ve ryo ne e l se a ro und he r. M y ho pe i s that whoever listens to that song kind of boils inside and has the courage to say or do something that they wouldn’t h a v e d o n e p re v i o u s l y b e c a u s e t h e y we re t o o a f ra i d.
Song you can listen to over and over again? For All We Know by Donny Hathaway. Favourite album of all time? Sade’s album, Lovers Rock. Most inspiring artist of all time? Sia is one of my idols for so many reasons. She’s one of the most incredible writers and singers of our time, but was told that she was too ugly to make it in the industry. Look where she is now. I feel such a connection to her.
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Forty-year-old Australian Sia Furler has no interest in being famous. She’s so against the fakeness of fame that she’s often photographed wearing a face-covering blunt-cut blonde wig with aplomb. Having penned songs for Rihanna and Beyoncé (to name but a few), her newest album, ‘This Is Acting’, is full of sing-along hits.
With origins in Paris, the Custot Gallery Dubai brings an international flavour to the region. Opening on March 14, its first ‘The World Meets Here’ exhibition will showcase an array of artists from around the globe – from Ian Davenport and Pablo Reinoso to Fabienne Verdier – in Dubai’s Alserkal Avenue.
Cultural
If your heart only lusts after heels then Roger Vivier’s new Sin heel is more than a little loveable. With a delicate curve at the heel and picked out in an array of muted tones, it’s perfect for the summer months ahead. Sensual, sophisticated and (slightly) sensible, it’s a shoe worth loving.
Notes for March From the album to keep playing on repeat to the most covetable shoe of the season and the book you just can’t put down, grab your diary and let MOJEH guide your
If you read only one book this month, make it Gloria Steinem’s ‘My Life On The Road’. Recounting the trials and tribulations she faced as a feminist, activist and journalist in America spanning decades, her memoir is a personal insight into her passions and pursuits.
What’s the shoe of the season? Without doubt it’s the backless flat. Either paired with some Levi 501s or a silk slip dress, this shoe style fuses fashion with functionality. From fur-soled Gucci loafers to a shiny, textured pair from Robert Clegerie, they deserve a place in your wardrobe.
We’ve fallen in love with Emirati designer Huda Al Nuaimi’s S/S16 collection. From prominent crossstitching to swaying fringes and a colour palette of earthy tones mixed with pink, the entire range captures the understated spirit of a bohemian. After studying at LCF and Dubai’s Esmod, the designer now divides her time between the cities.
Words by Susan Devaney
months ahead.
On May 5, The Metropolitan Museum of Art will open its doors to its new Costume Institute Exhibition, ‘Manus x Machina’. Curated by Andrew Bolton, it will explore the relationship between the handmade and machineproduced in fashion. With 100 haute couture and readyto-wear pieces on show, it will depict the way in which lines between high-tech and artisanal are blurring as we continue into the 21st century.
Hailing from Lebanon, jewellery designer Khajadourian Sahag has caught our attention with his latest Bones collection. Committed to only working with reputable vendors and making everything by hand, his pieces are ideal for everyday wear. From necklaces to rings, the pieces evoke lines of molten skeleton clad in gold and diamonds, wrapped around your fingers or dangling from your neck.
It’s almost been a decade since street style star and French illustrator Garance Doré launched her blog, garancedore.com. The blogger-turned-book author tells her tales of love, style and life in her first book – warm, funny and insightful.
Who else can drop a brand new song hours before their halftime Super Bowl performance and have the whole world going crazy for it? Beyoncé, of course. Fusing radical politics with mainstream pop, the power of Queen Bey has no limits. We’re intrigued to see what she’ll give to us in 2016.
The search for that perfect day-toeveningwear bag is over. Made from black supple leather, it’s the type of accessory that will only get better with age. From its thick shoulderslung strap to its simple structure, this Marni bag has a no-nonsense everyday appeal.
Not only is Queen Rania of Jordan sophisticatedly stylish, she’s a mother-of-four with a mission on her mind. As a keynote speaker at the Global Women’s Forum, held in Dubai for the very first time last month, she’s an advocate for women’s rights and looks set to continue campaigning in 2016.
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Brave the new season with defiant accessories that pack power in their punch. Look towards fighter-inspired styles with striking embellishments, whilst opting for a dominant colour palette of jewel-toned hues. Left to right: GUCCI | CHRISTIAN DIOR | FENDI
Photographed by Sarvenaz Hashtroudi
Warrior of Now
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