ISSUE 36 by MOJEH

NÂ° 36

APRIL

TO BREAK THE RULES, YOU MUST FIRST MASTER THEM.

THE VALLÃ&#x2030;E DE JOUX. FOR MILLENNIA A HARSH, UNYIELDING ENVIRONMENT; AND SINCE 1875 THE HOME OF AUDEMARS PIGUET, IN THE VILLAGE OF LE BRASSUS. THE EARLY WATCHMAKERS WERE SHAPED HERE, IN AWE OF THE FORCE OF NATURE YET DRIVEN TO MASTER ITS MYSTERIES THROUGH THE COMPLEX MECHANICS OF THEIR CRAFT. STILL TODAY THIS PIONEERING SPIRIT INSPIRES US TO CONSTANTLY CHALLENGE THE CONVENTIONS OF FINE WATCHMAKING.

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A B U D H A B I T H E G A L L E R I A A L M A R YA H I S L A N D D U B A I M A L L O F T H E E M I R AT E S D O H A V I L L A G G I O M A L L J E D D A H K H AY YAT C E N T E R R I YA D H C E N T R I A M A L L K U W A I T C I T Y T H E A V E N U E S P R E S T I G E M A N A M A B A H R A I N C I T Y C E N T R E S A K S F I F T H A V E N U E

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Refresh and rejuvenate your wardrobe with a closet detox organised by Louis Fourteen. louisfourteen.com/fashion

22 Chairman SHAHAB IZADPANAH

EDITORIAL

PUBLISHING

Editor in Chief MOJEH IZADPANAH

Publishing Director RADHIKA NATU

Associate Editor SHERI IZADPANAH

Publishing Assistant DESIREE LABANDA-GAVERIA

Managing Editor KELLY BALDWIN

Junior Publishing Assistant Kisada Hurin

Senior Fashion Writer Natalie Trevis

Senior Advertisement Manager Pamela Bayram Cleave

Fashion Writer susan devaney

Advertising Inquiries Tel: +971 4 553 90 49 Email: advertising@mojeh.com

Senior Editorial Assistant Aishwarya Tyagi

Subscription Tel: +971 4 553 90 49 Email: subs@mojeh.com

Editorial Assistant Sophie pasztor

Paris Representative GHISLAIN DE CASTELBAJAC

Guest Fashion Stylists Sofia Odero James V. Thomas Pauline Roze

Published under HS Media Group FZ LLC Registered at Dubai Design District Building No. 8, Offices 212-213 P.O.Box 502333, Dubai, UAE.

MOJEH Men Group Peter Iantorno Dmitri Ruwan

LOUIS FOURTEEN FOR MOJEH

ART

Concierge Service Management daisy marchant

Producer LOUIS AGENCY

Corporate Manager JUBRAN HAMATI

Art Director AMIRREZA AMIRASLANI

Online Division Ali Roman

Graphic Designer Balaji Mahendran

Lifestyle Assistance kasia wawryszuk

Digital Strategy LOUIS AGENCY Contributing Photographers Norbert Kniat Sarvenaz Hashtroudi Vivienne Balla Julien Vallon Danilo Hess Karina Twiss Michelle Peric Rhys Simpson-Hopkins

Cover photographed by Karina Twiss, model wears high jewellery earrings and ring by Cartier.

WWW.MOJEH.COM Louis Fourteen for MOJEH Follow us on Twitter @MOJEH_Magazine MOJEH Swiss Representative Office: Rue de Rive 4, 1204 Geneva, Switzerland Average qualified circulation (January-June 2015): 13,306 copies. For the UAE printed by Emirates Printing Press LLC. Distribution- UAE: Al Nisr Distribution LLC. Qatar: Dar Al Sharq. Bahrain: Jashanmal & Sons BSC (C). Oman: United Media Services LLC. Lebanon: Messageries Du Moyen-Orient The publishers regret that they cannot accept liability for error or omissions contained in this publication, however caused. The opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessary those of the publishers. Readers are advised to seek specialist advice before acting on information contained in this publication which is provided for general use and may not be appropriate for the readers particular circumstances. The ownership of trademark is acknowledged, therefore reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. All credits are subjects to change. Copyright HS MEDIA GROUP FZ LLC 2011

M o j eh C o ntent s

FEATURES 74. The Meaning of Marni Consuelo Castigilioni, the founder and creative director of Marni, discusses stylish modern muses and why her fashion currency is confidence.

86. Under Construction Would you ditch your staple skinnies for an original fit? We take a closer look at the rising trend of the year so far.

158. Reimagining The Stone Take a journey with us to Zambia in Africa, as we discover the world’s largest mine and the many powers of the beautiful emerald.

STYLE 42. My Stylish Life: Tracey El Ghazal

47. Mulberry’s Main Man

The Lebanese-born blogger of ‘Fashion to Tracey’

Who’s Johnny Coca? As the newly appointed

gives us an insight into her life, love of interior

creative director of British brand Mulberry, the

design and fashion, and the things that mean

Spanish designer sat down with us days after his

the most to her.

debut runway show.

44. Where Do We Stand?

108. The Art of Getting Dressed

Where do we stand in line with fashion’s future?

It’s official: She knows what women want. After

We take a closer look at the current changes

three decades as creative director of her eponymous

in the fashion system and project our own

label, Spanish-born Purificación García is a woman

predictions for 2016.

of many talents.

26 BEAUTY AND CULTURE 198. In The Mix Is there anything Hannah Bronfman can’t do? We get to know the DJ and founder of beauty and fashion website HBFIT as her star continues to rise.

204. Chic Escapes From Havana and Oxford to Palm Springs, we delve into the hot spots that are influencing the fashion world in more ways than one.

208. At Home With Deema Al Asadi The Iraqi-born beauty invites us into her home as she gives us an insight into how she manages to balance work, life and everything in-between.

Photoshoots 52. The Longest Night

144. Blooming in style

Sleepwear steps into everyday life – from striped

From diamond earrings and emerald encrusted

pyjamas to sweet slip dresses, allow our edit to

bracelets to opulent necklaces, peruse our edit

transport you from sunrise to sunset.

of Cartier’s creations.

118. The Young Victoria

188. The Nature of Things

Embrace spring’s whimsical florals, lightly-rolling

As the seasons transform, turn to subtle shades of

ruffles and muted colour palette for a sweet less-

sunshine for glossy skin, blushed cheeks and lightly

is-more mood.

twisted hair – all with spring’s sun-kissed glow.

E d i t o r ’s L ette r

Beautiful Adventures After a winter of bold hues and sturdy prints, if I had to sum up the spring summer collections in just a few words, it would be spirited, adventurous and romantic. From hiking boots at Elie Saab to a strong salute towards sportswear at Atelier Versace, both the ready to wear and couture collections are loaded with functional styles imploring to be shown the great outdoors. But, in all the robust styles, soft and sensual haven’t been left behind, with designers appealing to our femininity through sugary shades, floral prints and overwhelmingly voluminous silhouettes. These are the kind of clothes you adorn while climbing mountains where the end game is a cliff-top Michelin star restaurant, or dresses perfect for lingering summer bike rides with numerous picnic stops along the way. The industry has finally embraced and now Photographed by Vivienne Balla

encourages our adventurous side. The one snag? We’re left with zero excuses for an off day, as high fashion becomes all encompassing. Our cover story sums up this new mood as Cartier’s high jewellery pieces sit beautifully with either casual knitwear or more opulent dresses and furs. Perfect for a studious dinner meeting or an afternoon adventure outside. The women featured within the issue – from Marni’s Consuelo Castiglioni to British actress and style icon Sienna Miller – each possess an air of beauty and grace along with a tenacious will for discovery and creation. And, with that in mind, our health section turns its focus towards the Middle East and looks at the benefits to be found in our great plains. From unconventional workouts and where to look for your vitamin D to the eateries and spas focusing on homegrown produce, we encourage you to spend your springtime right here. Finally, in February this year, Johnny Coca, Mulberry’s new creative director, sent out his first collection for the house and summed up today’s woman in one fell swoop. She’s tough, independent and still unapologetically girly. In one of his first ever interviews at the brand, we speak to the Spanish designer about the new era of design.

Follow me on Twitter and Instagram @Mojeh_I and write to me at editor@mojeh.com

Mojeh Izadpanah Editor in Chief

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E d i t o r â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s SN A P SHOT s

Fa shi o n G one Rogue 5

3&4

This season, it’s all about the journey, as we muster up adventurous highway styles for the free-spirited woman. Donning vintage biker influences with tough motorcycle jackets, tan leathers and bold lines, we play on the exploratory nature of the modern traveller. Take solace in patchwork prints and bring out your inner gypsy with cross-body bags. 1. PRADA | 2. A.LANGE AND SÖHNE | 3. BVLGARI | 4. CHLOÉ | 5. RALPH LAUREN | 6. MARC JACOBS | 7. GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI | 8. COACH

st yl e note

lobal Flora

Styled by Olivia Cantillon and photographed by Sarvenaz Hashtroudi.

The new bloom loses traditional elements and turns to alternative methods of design. Fiercely opposing and contrasting in style, look to clashing prints, 3D visuals and brocade beauty.

Left to right: LAURENCE DECADE at Level Shoe District | FENDI

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Undenied Beauty Decorate your neckline with La Marquiseâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s glittering blue topaz and white diamond necklace, inspired by the blooming of a flower and encrusted with over 570 white diamonds. Get the most out of your jewels by wearing them throughout the day and night.

Styled by Olivia Cantillon and photographed by Sarvenaz Hashtroudi.

LA MARQUISE JEWELLERY

Malgosia Bela by Mikael Jansson â&#x20AC;&#x201C; messika.com

Angel Collection

for English Ad

Hailed as the sandal of the season, Marni delivers everything you could require for a summer romance. Complete with suede panelling, tropical embellishments and daytime shine, not to mention the functional two-strap detailing, whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not to love?

Sandals, MARNI

Styled by Olivia Cantillon and photographed by Sarvenaz Hashtroudi.

st yl e note

Home at last.

AGENT FOR GCC COUNTRIES Pia Colzani Tel. +39 335 8394824 pia.flexform@gmail.com

GROUNDPIECE SECTIONAL SOFA design by Antonio Citterio

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Fa sh io n IN F O C U S

A Novel Romance Reflect youthful whimsy in a soft palette of cream and lavender for a day spent in the sun. Look towards structured separates in crisp white and flaunt polished accessories in solid gold.

Words by Sophie Pasztor

Modern Artisan A minimalistic wardrobe will make for a perfect blank canvas to form the foundation of your look. Accessorise with artistic accompaniments that have a focus on shape and design like Dior’s artisanal earrings.

40 A Ray of Light Shine bright in joyful strokes of colour and empower yourself with positive vibes. Look to the rainbow for cheerful wardrobe inspiration or select bright accessories for a subtle inclusion to satisfy your free spirit.

Wild West Look to the great outdoors and channel your inner cowgirl with country elements. Opt for neutral shades and distressed denim, while incorporating details like fringe and textured embroidery to carry off the look.

S o c i ety W o m en

Photographed by Nour Keyrouz on location at the Four Seasons Hotel, Beirut Hair styled by Georges El Mendelek

My Stylish Life:

Tracy El Ghazal Style maven, Lebanese born Tracy El Ghazal merges her love of interior design and fashion on her successful blog, ‘Fashion to Tracy’. Here, she channels streamline silhouettes for the season ahead, while talking us through her lifestyle must-haves.

Motto to live by: Never Look Back | Best advice: Never change for the sake of pleasing those who don’t see your true spirit | Person who has taught you the most in life: My parents | What inspires you the most: Paris, everything vintage and Christian Dior | Person you’d most like to meet: Fan Bing Bing | Goal for 2016: Graduating and becoming an interior designer | Most cherished possession: My grandmother’s vintage earrings and my shoe closet | Last book read: Coco Chanel and the Pulse of History | Favourite place to shop in Beirut: Aishti and Le Lobby | Indoors or outdoors: Outdoors | Downtime activities: Writing and dancing.

Tracy wears Elisabetta Franchi shirt, belt and pants with Christian Louboutin shoes

Top: Tracy wears Elisabetta Franchi dress and Christian Dior shoes | Bottom: Tracy wears Elisabetta Franchi jacket and skirt with Christian Dior shoes

Favourite fashion brands: Zara, Dior,

brand: Dior, Make up For Ever and Chanel

Bimba & Lola, Paul & Joe and Maje |

| Staple lipstick and shade: Pirate and

Favourite local designer: Elie Saab,

Gabrielle by Chanel | Best health or beauty

Dina Jsr, Basil Soda and Sandra Mansour

tip you’ve ever been given: Drink lots

| Must-have item for summer: A statement

of water and never forget your sunscreen

backpack and a pair of gold aviators |

| Favourite at-home beauty solution:

Style icon: Audrey Hepburn | Favourite

Apple cider vinegar cleansing once a week

bloggers: Kristina Bazan and Karla Deras

and spraying cold rose water on my face

| Signature style: A pencil skirt, oversized

every morning! | Signature scent: Coco

shirt and a pair of show stopping stilettos

Mademoiselle – Chanel | What’s your daily

| Favourite city to shop: Paris, Paris,

beauty regimen: I love a daily moisturiser

Paris | Trend to cover for s/s16: The

from Avene after washing my face with rose

Seventies and Spanish inspired looks –

water. I wash my face three times a day

fringe, suede, ruffles, off shoulder tops,

before applying my Benzamycin gel mask to

blue jeans and bold colours | Biggest

treat moderate acne and Shiseido under eye

fashion faux pas: Wearing leggings as

cream at night | Favoured workout: Weight

pants | Heels or flats: Heel | Blow-dry or

lifting, lunges and squats | Best beauty

au-natural: Blow-dry | Favourite beauty

secret: Vaseline jelly as an under eye cream.

Tal k ing P o i nt

Where Do We Stand? By Susan Devaney

It was the crash of 2015. The current fashion system that’s been in place for decades was challenged by the introduction of the see-now-buy-now model. So, where do we stand in line with fashion’s future?

How do we go about changing a system that’s been set in place for decades? And, will a ‘one size fits all’ model work? “We have designers, retailers and everybody complaining about the shows,” said Diane von Furstenberg last year. “Everything needs to be rebooted.” But that’s exactly what’s beginning to happen. The CFDA [Council of Fashion Designers of America] employed Boston Consulting Group at the end of last year to explore viable alternatives to the current format, with the view of turning New York Fashion Week into a customer-facing event that has prompted many discussions. And, von Furstenberg should know, being the president of the CFDA and a designer who has also initiated change herself. In February, DVF held a small presentation, instead of her usual annual show at Spring Studios in New York City, offering some pieces from her autumn/winter 16 collection to buy the very same night. Of course, the world’s biggest supermodels – from Gigi Hadid and Kendall Jenner to Karlie Kloss – were modelling the new garments with aplomb.

It’s like we’d been watching a sweeping

– a structure that would have collections

If the new model were to succeed,

tsunami from afar in slow motion, knowing

shown in current season rather than

where would it leave editors? As regular

it would eventually hit. And it did. From

six months ahead of time, putting the

attendees ourselves of fashion week

Raf Simons’ shock exit from Dior and

focus on consumers instead of editors,

season, from London, Milan and New

Alexander Wang’s decision to step away

buyers and stylists. Making it possible for

York to Paris, our publication, like many

from Balenciaga to concentrate on his

shoppers to buy what they want from the

others, allows the current system to fit with

own label to Alber Elbaz stepping down as

collections online and in stores the same

our own publishing model. The editorial

Lanvin’s creative director after 22 years,

day it’s hit the runway. Then Tom Ford

process relies on having six months to

the warning signs were there last year.

came forward, cancelling its New York

see the clothes, meet with brands and

Not to mention, Diane von Furstenberg

show during fashion week in February,

find their place in particular issues before

voicing, in December 2015, the number

and instead made it known that they too

publication. The see-now-buy-now model

of complaints the Council of Fashion

would be adopting the same model come

will heavily rely on the Internet and social

Designers of America had received in

September 2016. They’ve completely

media. Editors, too, will have to adjust

relation to the current crumbling system.

gone against the grain of the current

their print schedules. “It’s a mess,” said

Then came Burberry, announcing that

system and challenged it head-on. The

Karl Lagerfeld backstage at Fendi to

they’d (from now on) only hold two

aftermath it’s left in its wake is a lot of

the Financial Times. “It’s just powdering

season-less annual shows, and would

change, and a whole lot of uncertainty

something that people don’t want to see

be introducing a see-now-buy-now model

for fashion’s future.

anyway, to make a statement. But, the

Dries Van Noten

reality is that you have to give people

Italy’s most successful designer,

goes online right away on social media

the time to make their choice, to order

Giorgio Armani, hasn’t stayed quiet

– dailies have been doing this forever.

the clothes or handbags, and to produce

on the subject matter either, nor has

I would like to realign the timing of the

them beautifully, so that editors can

he initiated any changes just yet. “I

presentations with those of sales in

photograph them. If not, that’s the end

think that a revision of calendars is in

stores with intelligence, balance and

of everything.” The end of fashion as we

some ways desirable: The times, and

great functionality. This will require

know it? “This way is chaos,” continued

not only the digital revolution, require

time and naturally a strategy fit at all

Lagerfeld. “People who have 300 shops

it. However, I think it is premature to be

levels, which I am ready to undertake.”

like Fendi can do it, but then you have to

swept away by the enthusiasm over the

Has Mr. Armani offered the best

make it already six months before, show

see-now-buy-now; for this revolution

solution to fix a broken system? We

it to the editors and somebody will see it

to be effective and permanent, it

should tread with patience, but a

anyway. That’s impossible. And people

will be necessary to intervene on

change must occur.

who have no retail shops, well, they don’t

every step of the pipeline in order

In recent months, it’s been a turbulent

know what to do.” Lagerfeld isn’t the only

to create an operating mechanism,

time for fashion as designers have

one opposing this new system – from

not the umpteenth operation of mere

openly spoken of ‘the crash and burn’.

Dior, Chanel, Chloé, Isabel Marant and

communication,” he said in a press

The fashion industry is no stranger to

Balenciaga to Lanvin – they have all opted

release issued in March. “I am not

speed when it comes to the creative

out of paving this new way.

worried about the fact that everything

process. Designers can appear to play

a musical game of chairs as they hop

freedom. “I think you decide that

a vanishing point: a lack of design and

from one label to the next, churning

yourself. I think that is something in

textile education, dire manufacturing

out (at least) six collections per year

the person. You know whatever you feel

conditions and unrealistic expansion

and, leaving a feeling of a merry-go-

is right. At the moment for me it feels

expectations, overworked designers

round style state of play (the most

right to work at Loewe – if that makes

and absurd delivery drops, an overdose

recent being Bouchra Jarrar taking

sense? I feel completely creatively free

of marketing and a surplus of out-

the reins at Lanvin). January is haute

in a very large company – because I

of-touch advertising, an absence of

couture; March is ready-to-wear, May is

live and breathe it. I pretend it in my

responsible and critical journalism, old-

cruise, July couture again; September

head that it’s mine. [This allows me] to

fashioned retail concepts dating from

ready-to-wear again; November resort

do my job,” he concluded. Surely, if he

the 19th and 20th century, a drastic

– before we’ve even added menswear

adopts the see-now-buy-now model,

economic slowdown and uninspired

to the long list. But, the speed limit

the fashion wheel will turn at an even

shoppers, who are no longer interested

has been reached on nearly all aspects

faster pace than before?

in the recycling of vintage styles. This

of the system. It is clear that brands

Is it time to switch seasons? During

means that the economy of clothes

cannot create any faster, a topic that

February and March, the spring/

will take over from the turnover of

we discussed in our December/January

summer collections are shown, and

fashion,” she told us during an interview

issue earlier this year, concluding that

in September the autumn/winter.

in March 2015. As labels continue to

everyone in fashion needs just a little

Respected trend forecaster Li Edelkoort

come forward, announcing changes

more time. The young up-and-coming

declared to MOJEH many months

both big and small to their delivery

designer, J. W. Anderson, who designs

ago that ‘this is the end of fashion as

schedules, the future of fashion hangs

for his own label and Loewe, explained

we know it.’ “The accumulation of a

in the balance. It may be a turbulent

to us in an interview this year with

variety of elements indicates that the

time for the industry, but (finally) we’re

MOJEH how he protects his creative

current fashion systems have reached

acknowledging and embracing change.

Photo courtesy of Getty

Mary Katrantzou

Congratulations on your appointment as creative director. Tell us about your first months at the house – how did you tackle things? It was important for me to follow what was done in the past, but also turn a new chapter, a new page for the brand, with more love, more modernity and more international designs. We are trying to make sure everything we do is relevant on a global scale, while keeping the sense of the Britishness inside the product. This could be felt through the colours, treatment of fabrics – it could be in any of the details. Did this motivate your decision to change the house’s logo? I took on the role in July and then started designing in September, at which point I went through the archives and looked at all the bags, on which I saw the old Mulberry writing. I noticed how English it was…

Johnny Coca, creative director of Mulberry.

the way it was written was more unique. I

Mulberry’s M

ain

realised that during their last changeover, they completely lost their DNA. I often like to go back to the way things started, and I wanted to bring back the uniqueness. You’re obviously very respectful towards the roots of the house. How will you harness the Mulberry DNA while staying true to your own creative expression? It’s important to understand what the customer wants successfully, and where it comes from. I went, saw all the products, saw all the knowledge and the craft, and

Last month, Johnny Coca revealed his first runway offering as creative director of Mulberry during London Fashion Week. The collection was both nostalgic and novel, and offered a fresh lease of life for the British design house and those who buy into it. Just days after the show, MOJEH sat down with the Spanish designer to discuss the women he admires and reawakening a heritage house.

I was thinking it’s British, but it can be stronger. I need to keep the heritage but also bring modernity. I want to understand the philosophy of the brand and why they are so popular in the United Kingdom. Because they respect the product, they made it functional and desirable in the past and there is a value behind that.

d e sig n er i nter vie w

I wanted to bring something fresh to every aspect of the brand, from the image to its advertising and, of course, the product itself. It’s for a strong character, who lives a global lifestyle, and this should be reflected in everything from the bags to the jewels, ready-to-wear and sunglasses. We want to focus on one item, but it’s really important that we appeal on a global scale when we do that. If it’s a bag, what is the message behind it, what was it designed for? Focusing on the attitude, movement, silhouette and coming up with something quite modern and quite cool, but in the meantime ensuring that everything is relevant – in a way, it’s like a new page, a new story for the brand. So, how did you get inspired for this collection? The street. I love when you have a coffee on a terrace or at a bar and you see all the girls walking with so much style. In my collection, you have so much attitude. You have all these different types of girls, who all want to be beautiful and they know how to dress, they know what looks nice on them. I just look at them. I ask myself why she has that bag or why she has that coat or why those shoes. So, you can identify the type of person based on how she dresses. My best way to evoke creation is when I am traveling and looking at people on the street. Backstage at the designer’s first show for the house. Below: Johnny Coca creates the new emblem.

How would you describe the Mulberry woman under your creative direction? She is a strong woman, she is cool. For me, there is no age, because I love to design You were born in Spain and have since

for everyone – everything I do needs to be

worked in both Paris and Italy. How did

flexible. She is quite powerful, and I love, love

you get in to the mindset of a brand that

strong girls. Today, girls have more and more

is traditionally very British?

power, and it’s really nice and really important

There were so many things I loved about

to me. They can be quite romantic and poetic

England before I moved to it and because

but still completely in control.

I’ve lived around Spain, Paris, Italy and Switzerland I’m very at ease with settling

Yes she is the boss of her life!

in to new places. It was really important

Yes and this is nice, I love that. She’s like

for me to analyse the key elements that

my mother for example. In the past it was

made it such a special British house but

so much about men, they had the power to

then look at how we can also make it

say and do anything but now it’s different,

more international.

it’s all about her.

With that in mind, talk us through the

How does the creative process happen

meaning behind your first collection.

for you?

Tailoring features heavily throughout the collection.

Well, anything I design needs to be right

done for this first collection I realise how

and have a function, so I’m not designing

accessible it all is. 950 euros, 750 euros,

just for pleasure – I want to make everything

even the exotic shoes are reasonable. It

useful and strong. So, if I need a bag, it

feels good to make something that’s great

needs to be right and functional or small or

quality with attention to craftsmanship

big or for business or for evening. We take

and still attainable.

care in everything we do; I go through the detail, construction, weight, function and

How do you ensure you are appealing

price. You can make a more beautiful bag

to all women?

or coat, but if it’s too expensive, it will stay

I have two sisters. If it’s not comfortable,

in the shop. I design to evoke desire among

they will say ‘I can’t wear it’. My sister had

people, not for myself.

a baby and she needed a big bag with a long strap, because she had a lot of things

Yes it’s incredibly important; too many

as well as a baby to hold, and it’s not easy.

people forget that at times.

If you travel, you understand the importance

I know and when I look at everything I’ve

of how the bag needs to be organised

Soft, white shearling offers a lighter take on winter.

I think creating desire is really important in fashion â&#x20AC;&#x201C; you do everything with so much love. Johnny Coca

inside. Because I’m living around girls, I try to understand what they need and bring them something special. We are seeing a rise in young designer appointments at top roles in many established houses. What do you think about this shift? It’s positive and I think it’s important for all young or old designers just to understand why they are designing. Also, to take care in their work and design incredibly strong, successful, desirable and powerful items. Social media plays a huge role in the industry. How do you think Mulberry can utilise that? It’s really dependent on each brand and how they want to play with it. I think it’s important in terms of communication, because some people don’t have access to certain magazines, and social media allows them to access these. So, I think that’s a nice message. You look at these bloggers that like a certain product and they voice their appreciation from places like Korea, Spain, Italy and South Africa. You feel like there is a desire coming and it’s a good window sometimes. I’m not always behind it, because it’s not my way to work, but there are people that are doing that for me. I think it’s the new way to communicate today, but I love

Leather was thin and styled with bright hues, perfect for warmer climes. Below: Johnny Coca’s shoe of the season.

print. I love magazines, too, my corridor is full of them. There’s also a shift in the way designers are showing their collections, like the

thing, but actioning it is another. I’m

way Burberry is pioneering ‘seasonless’

not all for it because I think the dream

collections. What are your thoughts

of communication, press, adverting and

on this?

creating something is special. It’s okay

I understand, but it really depends on

for one or two products and for super

who you are and what you want to pass

strong companies, but it’s not as easy

on as a message. I think creating desire

for the younger companies. So, I think

is really important in fashion – you do

we have to be more clever.

everything with so much love, you cant treat it like a supermarket. If we want

What are your goals for the future of

to do instant delivery, we can – we’ve

the house?

already started to in some cases. The

To make it stronger, more international

pre-collection, for example, is delivered

and cater to new clients from Asia, the

in one or two weeks. But, I’m not sure

US and Middle East; also, coming up

how everyone will manage if its taken

with new creative concepts that others

further than this. Discussing it is one

will also adopt and move forward with.

The Longest Night Sleepwear steps into everyday life. Embody the carefree existence in striped pyjamas, matching separates and sweet slip dresses with our edit of the styles that will transport you from sunrise to sunset.

Photographed by NORBERT KNIAT Styled by NATALIE TREVIS

Jacket and trousers, LA PERLA | Top, BALENCIAGA | Earrings, ISABEL MARANT | Cuff, CÃ©LINE

Exquisite handmade lace meets silk organza in darkly sensual separates, creating an evening look that travels beyond the boudoir.

A slip dress speaks to simplicity and ease of movement, elevated in sheer embroidered fabrics. Layer woven separates or knits under or over for a luxurious texture clash.

Dress, SAINT LAURENT | Top, BALENCIAGA | Earrings, CÃ©LINE | Rings, SAHAG JEWELRY | Shoes, JIMMY CHOO

Jacket, 3.1 PHILLIP LIM and dress TIBI at Boutique 1 | Slip, SILENT ASSEMBLY at RIGBY & PELLER

Step through the looking glass and channel Nineties charm in a sheer bomber jacket layered over a simple shift dress. Minimal makeup and tousled bedhead tresses spell style freedom.

The pyjama party continues beyond sunrise in chic silky stripes, made office-worthy with neutral heels and the tough talk of a leather jacket.

Pyjamas, OLIVIA VON HALLE @net-a-porter.com | Jacket, SAINT LAURENT | Shoes, STUART WEITZMAN | Earrings, GIVENCHY

Jacket, trousers, shirt and shoes, GUCCI | Bodysuit, LA PERLA

Tailored suiting in cheerful spring tones fits the pyjama-dressing temperament. Worn with backless loafers, nonchalantly relaxed shirting and a hint of lingerie, this look works indoors or out.

Jacket and shorts, MARNI | Bodysuit, MIMI HOLLIDAY at Rigby & Peller | Shoes, CÃ©LINE | Earrings, BALENCIAGA

Play with proportions with the exaggerated sleeves and nipped in waist of a Marni shorts suit. Neither pyjamas nor traditional tailoring, this look is an elusive sleeping beauty.

Robes rule as the only outerwear option for spring. Double-breasted kimono styles atop silk trousers make a freespirited combination.

Robe, ACNE STUDIOS | Shirt, GIVENCHY | Pyjama trousers, MARJOLAINE at Rigby & Peller | Shoes, STUART WEITZMAN | Bag, MAX MARA

The season’s sporting trouser silhouettes and easy tunics are a licence to dress for comfort without compromising on style.

Top and trousers, CHLOÉ | Necklace, SERAPHINE DESIGN at Boom & Mellow

Top (inner), LA PERLA | Top (outer), CéLINE | Necklace, CHLOÉ | Cuff, SAHAG JEWELRY

Highlighted cheekbones, defined brows and artfully smudged layers of warm-toned eyeshadow combine clarity and depth for a fresh-faced beauty approach, while underwear becomes outerwear in silky layers.

Robe and trousers, PUCCI | Pyjama top, FOR RESTLESS SLEEPERS @net-a-porter.com | Earrings, MARNI | Shoes, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

Stride out in style with a cityready look in which the silk robe replaces the trench, the pyjama top is a playful alternative to the buttondown shirt and embroidered clogs are the nearest thing to slippers.

Model: Maud at The Agenc Hair and makeup artist: Manuel Losada Digital retouching: Jheny Avila With special thanks to Al Barari, Dubai

Back To The Future

Maison Margiela, spring/summer 2016

T h e A cces s o ry

This utilitarian pseudo-backpack by Maison Margiela is our pick of the season.

John Galliano offered a trip to another dimension in a “lo-fi sci-fi” collection that proposed a selection of delectable accessories, combining vintage notes from the Fifties with geisha styling and a prescient Ziggy Stardust whimsy in a way only Galliano can. The second half of the Maison Margiela collection morphed into a series of elaborately tied obi belts, kimono silhouettes and wrapped skirts, the rope belts transitioning into straps for a boxy leather bag neatly perched between shoulder blades. With its large rectangular buckle, single handle and compact proportions, the handbag would be a ladylike addition to an everyday look; yet, knotted secures its place as the hands free It-bag of the future. “For me, creativity must be free… this is the key to success,” says Renzo Rosso, president of the parent company of Margiela. Galliano channels both creativity and freedom in this fiery red accessory that promises a space age escape.

Words by Natalie Trevis.

across the back, it takes on an interstellar appeal that

Both effortless and confident, the striped shirt has escaped its corporate overtones and offers a sense of optimism and simplicity.

Walk The Line Max Mara, spring/summer 2016

When it comes to quintessential wardrobe staples thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s nothing quite so classic as the striped shirt.

Is it really possible to distil a wardrobe into a series of classic pieces? In a season in which thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a trend to satisfy any mood â&#x20AC;&#x201C; from maximalist excess to techcentric futurism - it seems like a challenge. And yet served up on the runways amidst the embroideries, texture clashes and high concept styling, were a series of timeless pieces that had us reminiscing about the days of normcore. Key among these was the solid stripe, seen everywhere from Roksanda Ilincic to Jonathan Saunders, but executed most beautifully in the seafaring striped button down shirts and double breasted blazers at Ralph Lauren and Max Mara. Both effortless and confident, the striped shirt has escaped its corporate overtones and offers a sense of optimism and simplicity in our everyday dressing: room to breathe. Think of the understated elegance of Words by Natalie Trevis.

Lauren Santo Domingo, the blazer-topped insouciance of Caroline de Maigret or the London-centric chic of Sarah Harris (who styles hers with oversized cuffs dangling) and the humble striped shirt begins to sum up an ageless finesse that never goes out of style.

Ralph Lauren, spring/summer 2016

The Mood

Backstage at Christian Dior, spring/summer 2016

Age of Innocence

With frothy gowns and bonbon colours, fashion is experiencing a moment of innocence.

It’s almost intuitive: When the fashion industry is in need of something to smile about, designers deliver in kind, with collections bursting with a youthful innocence, executed in sweet colours and ethereal textiles. Giorgio Armani focused on sophisticated yet shorter hemlines, Alexander McQueen and Balenciaga proposed layers of feminine ruffles and even the usually provocative Givenchy turned to understated chiffon cross tops and lace embroidered skirts topped neatly with a bow. Diaphanous fabrics abounded at Chloé and lavender tones likewise at Carolina Herrera. From beauty to fashion to accessories and even locations – Dior’s delphiniumdrenched dome as one example – the collections searched for hope and the eternal optimism of youth in fresh-faced models, dainty silhouettes and heritage romanticism. Industry-wide change is afoot and we look for reassurance in clothes that offer beauty and emotion simultaneously: The collections are a charm offensive capable of wooing customers, buyers and editors alike. The age of innocence is not a fleeting mood, but seems set to continue into fall. “We wanted to give the audience a smile, dreams of happiness – we know that real life is different, but our job is to give something lighter to the

Words by Natalie Trevis.

people,” said Domenico Dolce of the Dolce & Gabbana fairytale dream of an autumn/winter collection. This season and beyond, empowered dressing includes charming florals, sequins and pastels – we really can have it all.

T h e D es i g n er

T h r o ug h

The Kaleidoscope

Top: Backstage at Emilio Pucci, autumn/winter 2016 Bottom: Designer Massimo Giorgetti

Massimo Giorgetti finds his voice at Emilio Pucci.

To print or not to print? That question was resolved by Massimo Giorgetti in his second and most recent outing for Emilio Pucci, in a collection that merged Giorgetti’s youthfully exuberant style with the much-loved patterned codes of an established house. Giorgetti, who is also creative director and founder of the playfully quirky MSGM, shied away from print in his debut for Pucci, focusing instead on net-like textures and embroidery, but made a confident return this February in the form of sports-luxe zipped jumpsuits, abstract mountain prints (a reference to the skiwear with which Emilio launched his fashion career?) and a bout of logo-mania that could well be a first for the Italian giant. has made his bread and butter - and will surely ensure that Pucci is a name that becomes familiar to a whole new generation of customers. Accountant turned sales clerk turned designer, Giorgetti is no stranger to change and seems to have found his groove in what he knows best. He makes no bones about the importance of the freedom of youth in his collections: “I think it’s the secret of fashion right now.”

Words by Natalie Trevis.

The result is overwhelmingly fresh – anchored in the street style fodder that Giorgetti

Ashley Williams

A game-changing beauty, L.A.-based Adwoa Aboah is a woman offering inspiration in more ways than one.

Topshop Unique

The identity of the Brit-model of the moment might change with the passing seasons, but that’s not something that’s likely to concern the poised and unfiltered Adwoa Aboah as she steps up to take her turn in the limelight. It’s a turn that will surely last beyond the cover shoots and runway walks – Aboah features in Calvin Klein’s spring campaign and has walked in shows from Fendi to Marc Jacobs – because she is a model with something to say. Open about her past struggles with addiction, Aboah is the founder of Gurls Talk, an educational online platform and call to arms encouraging honesty and openness among Words by Natalie Trevis.

young women about mental health, addiction and eating disorders. Aboah is also taking Gurls Talk to the grassroots with workshops in schools. “I felt a huge responsibility to help girls who might be going through the same thing,” said the self-proclaimed feminist in an interview earlier this year with long time bestie Cara Delevingne (the two even share matching heart tattoos). “The basis of my recovery is honesty.” Style, grace and a message of empowerment, Aboah is a wise soul making a difference. Marc Jacobs

T h e S to ry

The Nineties have never strayed too far from the zeitgeist. This season in particular marks the return of the grunge era.

The Nineties revisited at Alexander Wang, spring/summer 2016

Words by Natalie Trevis.

Imaan Hammam backstage at Rag & Bone, spring/summer 2016

Fashion loves a dose of Nineties nostalgia â&#x20AC;&#x201C; an instant reminder of heady teenage years or coolly unknowable older siblings, the bands that inspired the grunge era and the ascendance of a new kind of anti-supermodel. Nostalgia is personal, it speaks to us; it sells. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a timewarp opportunity to reinvent the past and one that designers from Hedi Slimane at Saint Laurent to Alexander Wang have seized. Nirvana, plaid shirts, slip dresses with sneakers. Tiaras, clunky shoes, mom jeans and Kate Moss at the Elite Model Agency party in 1993. Pick your favourite Nineties reference. Rag & Bone looked to tube dresses and hoop earrings reminiscent of the Notting Hill Carnival, DKNY offered spaghetti straps over t-shirts, while slinky slips at Calvin Klein captured the glory days of the brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s characteristic simplicity. The iconic Nineties codes reflected back at us from the runways endure because they belong in the histories of many of the 30-something designers, who recognise the power they contain. And, they also belong to us, rising as they did from popular culture and an excitement at the possibilities a new millennium would bring.

Saint Laurent

D e sig n er I nter vie w

The Meaning of Marni

Designer Consuelo Castiglioni

Consuelo Castiglioni, the founder and creative director of Marni, has her own unique take on what it means to be a stylish modern muse. Meet the designer whose fashion currency is confidence.

Images courtesy of Marni.

By Natalie Trevis

From her headquarters in Milan,

Backstage at Marni spring/summer 2016

Consuelo Castiglioni presides over a fashion empire that is tireless in its pursuit of intelligent modern fashion. More than 20 years after Swiss-born Castiglioni first envisaged the Marni philosophy in 1994, the brand has extended its reach into everything from menswear to leather goods and fragrances. “My husband’s family own a fur company,” says Castiglioni. “Way back then, furs were seen as bourgeois, conservative and old fashioned. I tried to create something different, working the fur as a fabric and taking it out of its usual context. It was an immediate success with the press and the buyers.” Best described as offering an alternative elegance, often overlooked on today’s runways in favour of click-worthy sex appeal, Marni delivers the playfully complex prints and distinctly antibodycon silhouettes loved by stylish women from London to New York. Personal style always triumphs over trend in Castiglioni’s world. “Since the beginning, each collection has come from continuous research on textures, materials and colours. We try to experiment and create something that can last and be worn with pieces from different collections.” Marni’s family origins are crucial to Castiglioni, who continues to work with a very small team of designers – husband Gianni is CEO and daughter Carolina is director of special projects – which makes the Marni enterprise feel more niche and homely than its global expansion might suggest. The

the current schedule and myriad external

it look like she is still having fun at the

team works together on pattern cutting

pressures, not least commercial,

helm. The spring/summer collection

without sketches and experiments with

Castiglioni remains anchored and

was a riot of gargantuan leaf prints

each design on fit models until the look

continues to find joy in the process of

and asymmetric garments layered

is complete. It’s just this inclusive and

creating. “At the beginning, with just

together in a way that formed a cohesive

family-oriented feel that allows softly

one collection per year, it was certainly

whole. Colours careened from egg yolk

spoken Castliglioni to concentrate

easier,” she admits. “On the other hand

yellow to bottle green, often colliding

on the abstract thoughts and artistic

now, even if we are always incredibly

happily in a single look. Textiles are

expression that guides the label from

busy, we have the chance to exploit

consistently employed in architectural

season to season. “We all work in the

every facet of our vision, to collaborate

forms, in boxy leather jackets, neat

company in different departments,” she

with artists, to create special projects.

aprons and macramé overlays, while

says of the family involvement, “and

This is fun to me!”

the most recognised Marni accessory

we all share the same aesthetic, even

The view from the front row at Marni’s

might just be the chunky resin bangle,

though each one has his own personal

packed shows as Castiglioni’s creations

often stacked on both wrists with

vision.” Even with the frenetic pace of

waft down the runway certainly makes

abandon. “My designs often start from

Spring/summer 2016

the fabric,” notes Castiglioni, who has

upon austere Japanese minimalism,

had no formal education in design “I am

aristo fairytales or quirky sportif notes.

most attracted to textures, patterns,

Castiglioni is known for her outright

colours and the effect you can achieve

rejection of the notion that sex sells.

with different materials when working on

No matter the prevailing skin-baring

a silhouette.” One look at the autumn/

norms, Castiglioni has a different, and

winter collection confirms just that,

in some ways more powerful, version

where teeny fur boleros, buttoned capes

of femininity. “I think that sensuality

and gathered balloon sleeves in the

comes from a woman’s confidence,

signature muted Marni hues hark back

from being truly herself in what she is

to the dark romanticism of the Italian

wearing,” she confirms. “It has nothing

aristocracy of decades past. Or that’s

to do with showing off the body.”

one interpretation at least: The beauty

Loose tunics, wide-legged trousers

of every Marni collection is in its slightly

and oversized shoulders are just a

indecipherable nature, whether touching

few of the codes Castiglioni uniquely

Even if we are always incredibly busy, we have the chance to exploit every facet of our vision, to collaborate with artists, to create special projects. This is fun to me! Consuelo Castiglioni

employs to present a woman’s body as

Bold graphic accessories are a Marni signature

something to be revered and indulged, but never overtly displayed. Eccentric, intelligent and bold, with no sign of pretension, she might be covered up, but the Marni woman is no wallflower in her sky-high ugly-beautiful flatform sandals. And, she is no specific age either – the Marni aesthetic working equally well for a fashion-conscious gallery owner as a street-style savvy teen. Fans of the brand become true aficionados and yet it’s no surprise to learn that Castiglioni does not court celebrities, preferring to communicate simply via the shows and its stylised stores. The customer must choose Marni: Castiglioni is not in the business of forcing the issue. It was as recently as 2015 that the brand launched its first, predictably and beautifully off-kilter advertising campaign, photographed by Jackie Nickerson. The less is more approach has worked: Marni is the secret style weapon of the creative

equally fearless Miuccia Prada, also

collaborators. The event, described by

industries, from the fashion editor in-

springs to mind), Castiglioni shows no

Carolina Castiglioni as “revealing each

crowd to the likes of Meryl Streep, Lena

sign of wanting to do anything other

facet of Marni, which is distinctive for its

Dunham, comedian Sarah Silverman and

than continue to innovate at Marni. “It

prismatic character,” affirmed that, more

film director Sofia Coppola. How does

was particularly exciting celebrating our

than a fashion label, Marni is becoming

Castiglioni keep up with the constantly

20th anniversary last year,” she says.

a lifestyle. “We created not only special

changing landscape? “By being faithful

It was an event marked in style with

events worldwide exploring Marni’s

to Mar ni’s values of research and

Marni Prisma, a series of celebrations

identity,” says Consuelo, “but also had

experimentation,” she says, “and always

including a flower market at Rotondo

the spin to keep evolving and moving to

trying to create something that actual

della Besana for the spring/summer

the next step.” One of the most crucial

women would wear.” Pragmatic music

2015 show in Milan, a roof market in

next steps was the total acquisition

to many a woman’s ear.

Hong Kong, blossom market in Tokyo

of the brand by Only The Brave, the

One of a dwindling band of designers

and the Becoming Marni exhibition at the

Renzo Rosso holding company that also

still in creative control of a self-founded

56th Venice Biennale, all in conjunction

owns Maison Margiela and Viktor & Rolf,

label decades in (Castiglioni’s peer, the

with symbiotic artists and long term

which has proven a relatively seamless

Backstage at autumn/winter 2016

Thun. “They have all been special because of the deep connection with the collections,” says Castiglioni. “Gary Hume, with whom we collaborated in 2010, also became a friend.” British artist Hume’s modern abstract forms plastered in neat rectangles over the Neapolitan ice cream colours of the a/ w10 collection make inexplicable but infinite sense, amidst paillette-adorned dresses and mustard Bermuda shorts. Eclecticism is honed into an art form at Marni, and it is made all the more special by Castiglioni’s instincts to include the artists themselves. What comes across more than anything when looking back at the Marni archive is that this is a brand completely selfassured in its message. Experimentation without fanfare, quality craftsmanship without complication. Mar ni is a family business turned Italian heritage

transition. Castiglioni remained in full

sell-out Mar ni for H&M collection

brand and Castliglioni is its lifeblood.

control of the direction of the brand as

in 2012, which now forms a rite of

It is Castiglioni’s personal touch that

creative director and, with a renewed

passage for many luxury brands into

comes across in Marni’s wider vision

focus on growing the menswear line

the mainstream, and the collaboration

– you can see she has touched every

with the help of Rosso, sales reached

with uber-perfumer Daniela Andrier on

fabric and overseen every stitch –

$173 million in 2014.

the first Marni fragrance – but, as an art

and this is why new Marni converts

Castiglioni certainly knows a good

lover, Castigliano has made a personal

turn into lifelong devotees. Castiglioni

collaboration when she sees one, which

point of working on Marni’s beloved

understands her customer. When

has consistently helped Marni strike its

prints with artists from photographer

asked for the secret that the Marni

signature balance of culture and cool.

Richard Prince to Sir Peter Blake,

woman is seeking in her designs, she

Of course, there was the ubiquitous

Claude Caillol and architect Matteo

doesn’t miss a beat: “Self-confidence”.

Montenapoleone’s

Best Kept Secret The Montenapoleone VIP Lounge offers members a unique and efficient shopping experience. We spent a day here, away from the crowded streets of Milan.

the busy shopping streets of Milan, where brands such as Gucci, Prada, Cartier and Rolex attract international tourists along with Italy’s most dedicated shoppers. ‘The Key to Exclusivity: Exclusively For You’ are words that ring true throughout the building, and what is presented is a two-storey sanctuary designed by the Galante Menichini team, including a private fitting room, rest areas and security controlled holding areas for your Milanese purchases. Whether utilising it as a space to pause between shops or a last-minute coffee break before departing for the airport, the minimal design along with the homely scent of Aqua di Parma make it difficult to leave. The VIP Lounge’s services extend far out of its four walls and once accepted as members, we were suddenly privy to a concierge team guiding us towards the best restaurants and cultural spots Milan has to offer, specialised personal shoppers who made the two-day trip more efficient, and a bevvy of interesting invites for special events held within Milan’s fashion community. The real relief came upon checkout, where not only was our luggage transported directly to the airport and our very precious items cared for through dedicated and safe shipping – all handled by VIP partner Ferrari – but the membership allowed us direct access to VAT refunds at the airport, saving hours of queuing time. As the first of its kind, the lounge’s creation and its unique benefits were only made possible through strong relationships with the surrounding community, mainly the backing of the Montenapoleone Association comprised of 140 luxury

Nestled within the bustling streets of Milan’s luxury shopping

brands – a relationship which members benefit from through

district is a new haven, built for those looking for an exceptional

various activities. ‘Exclusivity’ is the main momentum

experience. With a concierge service, personal shoppers,

flowing throughout the concept and so, of course, as with

airport transfers and priority tax returns, the Montenapoleone

any exceptional experience, membership is not easy to

VIP lounge is an exclusive project and the first of its kind,

come by. Other than purchasing access, clients can only

reimagining the way the world’s elite shop. On entering

be invited in to the lounge through one of the boutiques

the lounge, located at 23 Montenapoleone, we’re instantly

or the luxury partners, such as five star hotels and tour

transported to another place, one that’s a world away from

operators. Efficient, serene and reimagining the way we shop.

Urban Safari

se a s o n al s ty le

Explore the city in style and channel the great outdoors by opting for an earthy colour palette of camel and gold. Muted hues in soft sumptuous textures offer functionality, while touches of metallic found in accessories suggest opulence.

Words by Sophie Pasztor

BOTTEGA VENETA

Setting Sail

CARVEN

Embrace the cooler months and take your weekend activities to the water. Relax and unwind on a yacht while fashioning a crisp and clean palette of white for serene daywear. Stay grounded with a pair of stylish gladiator sandals or luxe silver trainers.

1 2

Midnight Beauty

ELISABETTA FRANCHI

Reveal the darker side of spring with long evening dresses, reflecting a moodier side to the season. Subtle inclusions of flowers and feathers salute femininity, while lace nods towards an edgier disposition.

F a sh i o n F eatu r e

Under Construction Would you ditch your staple skinny jeans for an original fit? As more women start to make the switch, we take a closer look at the rising trend of 2016.

By Susan Devaney

We may be delving into sartorial archives, but this new denim appreciation is a completely fresh approach.

Freedom. That’s what women wanted from a pair of jeans. Think Thelma and Louise taking on the highway, decked out in high-waisted Levi’s and motif tees (and obligatory branded leather cowboy boots) or Jane Birkin in sky blue versions and a plain white cotton t-shirt. Understatedly cool. The original denim dream consisted of rigid, 100 per cent cotton denim – no lycra, no stretch. Since Kate Moss donned her stretchy spray-on skinnies over a decade ago, women briskly turned their backs on the once-loved androgynous style. So quickly did they make their way up to the top of the denim charts that we lost sight of real denim? Instead, we embraced the skinny for what it was – an imposter, but one that created the likeable illusion of a lean figure for all. However, a proper pair of jeans can be a friend for life. How many pairs of skinnies have you loved and lost throughout the past decade? “The best benefit of a pair of non-stretch jeans is that they’re built to last and they’ll improve along the way. A good pair of real jeans will be with you for life – the odd rip and patch only enhances its character, which is a rare thing in modern day fashion,” says Samuel Trotman, Denim Editor at WGSN. “While a pair of rigid, unwashed jeans may be a tough thing to get used to after years of elastane stretch against your skin, the rewards will be worth it once you’ve given them their six-month gracing period (with no wash).” Yeah, that’s right, true denim needs to be broken in. But, the rewards will be fruitful when they’ve moulded to your shape, and achieved their ‘hold’ (a.k.a a pert-looking behind). “One thing every denim lover says they love about their jeans is how they mould to you and tell a story through the fades. You can only If you’re not into 100 per cent cotton non-stretch, there are comfort stretch raw fabrics on the market that will give you an added bit of ease before you commit to the real deal,” says Sam. What’s the fit to wear now? “Women are looking for those truly authentic looking jeans, but with a contemporary look and fit. Think hip-hugging, highrise fits with hems cropped above the ankle or slimfits that have been opened up at the hem to create a modern micro kick flare,” advises Sam. A daily dose of inspiration is constantly streaming on social media channels, with hashtags like #janebirkindaily,

Photographs courtesy of Anna Palermo and Valentina Frugiuele

achieve this through breaking in a raw pair of jeans.

#levis and #debbieharry generating millions of hits,

Demna Gvasalia (a Maison Martin Margiela alumnus

especially after the summer music festivals taking

and newly appointed creative director of Balenciaga)

place across the world. It’s evident that we’re turning

started the cult Parisian label Vetements (it translates

to long-standing style icons for encouragement,

to ‘clothing’ in French) to go against the old in

and dependable, old-school brands like Levi’s and

creating the new. In doing so, they’ve created one

Wrangler for a good fit. Do you remember Debbie

of the most in demand pair of jeans of the season.

Harry’s beloved stone-washed Levi’s 505s? We may

“We founded Vetements because we simply wanted

be delving into sartorial archives, but this new denim

to make clothes for our friends, girls we know. It’s a

appreciation is a completely fresh approach. Denim

brand that makes clothes, inspired by clothes. There

is being deconstructed for 2016 thanks to emerging

are no seasonal themes, we always work with the

labels. The real denim revolution happening now is

existing wardrobe and every season try to give the

not simply about adopting a throwback look, it’s

garments we like a new shape, concept and frame,”

fashion’s youth who are leading the pack. Designer

Gvasalia told MOJEH in August last year. Within

Photographs courtesy of Anna Palermo, Valentina Frugiuele, Getty and Corbis

days of being stocked by luxury online retail site

still produced in a mill using pebbles to stonewash

Net-A-Porter, Vetements’s reworked vintage jeans

the denim. Does it get more authentic than that?

were sold out, and at around AED4,000 a pair –that’s

But they’re not the only ones.“Other brands to look

a heavy price tag for denim. “This is where brands

out for are MiH, Simon Miller and Brock Collections

like Vetements, Redone and Aries are capturing the

– they’re also hitting the trend with their authentic

market. Each of the styles have that nostalgic feel,

styles,” Sam concludes.

but with an idiosyncratic, asymmetric, DIY finish that

There’s a strong rock ‘n’ roll attitude to the emerging

feels completely fresh in today’s saturated denim

names and the women who are already tackling the

market,” says WGSN’s Sam. Aries, a London-based

new trend head on. During fashion week season,

label, has garnered a whole host of young fans

throughout the months of February and March,

(who’ve probably never previously owned a pair of

street style stars took on the look with aplomb.

proper denim jeans) by sticking to simple cuts and

From cropped cuts with distressed hems to high-

delightful patches. Their ‘Lilly style’ is apparently

waisted silhouettes in a series of blue shades, it was

Photographs courtesy of Anna Palermo and Valentina Frugiuele

From cropped cuts with distressed hems to high-waisted silhouettes in a series of blue shades, it was obvious that jeans are taking on a new shape for the future.

obvious that jeans are taking on a new shape for the future. “The women that are adopting the raw jean, archival look, I think are tapping into a more lifestyle driven trend: Caring where things are made, by whom and how. It’s mostly the Millennials who are getting in on this vibe. And yes, personally I think this will mean a long-term lifestyle shift, not a quick flash trend,” says Amy Leverton of Denim Dudes. Like the rest of the buying habits of consumers across the fashion industry, attentions are turning to ethics and commercialisation. “Women are starting to care more where their denim comes from and are going back to a more archival denim look…My thoughts are that we are coming into a long phase of ‘being yourself’ of wearing what you want to wear and being true to yourself. That makes it harder for brands because they are trying to be everything to everybody, but for consumers, it means less rules,” says Amy. We’re welcoming less rules, and looking for the personal touch instead. Before you start to wear in your brand new pair of Levi’s, the brand is now offering a bespoke service to help you get the perfect fit, tailoring a brand new pair of jeans to your exact body shape. “We will be launching a campaign a bit later in the year which talks to the 501 fit and Levi’s being the original blue jean,” says Simone Fichtl, Brand Manager for Levi’s in Africa and the Middle East. But are consumers searching for something even more personal? “Buying from a small, artisanal brand is far more rewarding because the brand is small, they can give you the personal touch. Recently, I bought unisex jeans from a guy called Evan Kinori in San Francisco. I went to visit his studio, talked with him and hung out for like four hours,” says Amy. “There’s a lot of big brands out there I adore but you simply cannot say the same when you buy something from a chain store.” With celebrities such as Gigi Hadid, Amber Heard and Caroline de Maigret achieving the new look with ease, this boy-fit denim is one for everyone to give a go – and why not? If it means we’re conscientiously looking for jeans that are built to last and love for a long time, it can only be a (really) good thing, as we take back that livedin and locked-in feeling. Unlike our slimming skinnies, in a decade’s time from now, we’ll still feel the freedom of our love-worn original fit.

se a s o nal s ty le

Decoding

The Trends

Cushnie et Ochs s/s16

Modernism was on fine form on the runways for spring/ summer 2016 as designers used new age military inspirations and the period drama of chiffon cascades across the globe, pushing the envelope even further with more focus on craftsmanship and detail than ever. Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re breaking down four key looks to swear by this season.

This season, designers take a softer spin on utilitarian trends, with a global appeal for a modern woman seeking an adventure. From urban camouflage suits to combat boots, the military trend is on the frontline with a luxe factor.

Designers to watch: Versace for impeccably tailored camouflage suits, 3.1 Phillip Lim for mannish oversized khakis and Sonia Rykiel for feminine sundresses in army prints. Derek Lam s/s16

If you’re feeling bold, then clash different patterns for an intense take on the trend.

Style notes: • An otherwise androgynous look can be softened with lighter greens and bright, colourful accessories. Metallic heels and statement earrings salute femininity. • For subtlety, your headto-toe uniform can be the same army green and neutral colour palette, but if you’re feeling bold, then clash different patterns for an intense take on the trend. • The muted colours allow freedom to play with makeup. Go for a dark berry lip for evening and pull up a sleek ponytail with nude makeup during the day.

Versace s/s16

Where to buy: At a local store in Texas for authentic khaki separates or at the Burberry store in Regent’s Street, London for luxe tailored trenches and leather boots. Barbara Bui s/s16

Urban Explorer

Antonio Marras s/s16

96 Style notes: • This season, accessories are everything. Be sure to break an ethereal sheer outfit with an edgy bag or statement necklace. • Keep the makeup soft with feminine hues to complement the look. • Make sure to invest in a good piece with lavish lacework to add a rich Victorian touch.

Vionnet s/s16

Dries Van Noten s/s16

Simone Rocha s/s16

Designers to watch:

Sheer Perfection

Prabal Gurung presented a plethora of dreamy pieces in pastel hues embodying sophistication and sexiness in equal measure, while Elie Saab and Chloé offer dressier options.

Seduction is the name of the fashion game this season, thanks to a touch of sheer delight seen in delicate layers of ivory, peach and silver. The beautifully wispy creations come in diaphanous gowns and prim buttoned-up blouses.

Where to buy: Take a walk down Rue Saint Honoré, Paris, and stop by Collette to explore sultry Parisian designs. Rodarte s/s16

Julien Macdonald s/s16

We’re seeing a wealth of quirky accessories, signature embellishments and ornate details making a delightful comeback after a normcore phase in fashion. Designers are looking to 3D embellishments inspired by flora and fauna from around the world.

Designers to watch: Prada’s royally embellished coats; Dries Van Noten’s baroque brilliance; Gucci’s aristo-English imagery in intricate details of lace and sequins.

Where to buy: A vintage treasure trove boutique in Morocco for artisanal jewellery.

Prada s/s16

Style notes: • Express yourself! Pick an inspiration, something you love, and add a charm or trinket to your outfit to truly personalise your look. • When wearing a statement piece, keep the distractions minimal. Team a trophy jacket with neutral separates. • A rich work of art needs to be teamed with opulent gemstone hues. The season’s offerings are filled with ruby reds and emerald greens, set against gold embellishments and sequins.

Fausto Puglisi s/s16

Ornate Details

Gucci s/s16

Designers to watch: Brands like Dolce & Gabbana and Missoni showed bold colours reminiscent of rainbows, while Jonathan Saunders and Anya Hindmarch showcased an all-stripe takeover. MSGM s/s16

Where to buy: Make your way across New Yorkâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Fifth Avenue and stop by Bergdorf Goodmanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s to explore the young and innovative graphic play of Anya Hindmarch and Altuzarra. Osman s/s16

The simplest ideas are always the best. The tried and tested winning graphic is supersized and power-packed with pop colours. Be it horizontal or vertical, on ribbed jerseys or billowing silks, the linear approach to decoration is here to stay.

Gareth Pugh s/s16 Jonathan Saunders s/s16

Style notes:

Graphic accessories are your best investment for the season.

• Graphic accessories are your best investment for the season. Find an eye-catching bag to team with a monochrome outfit to carry you from work to after-hours festivities. • Clash your graphic top with a contrasting skirt for a bold impact. • Choose a free moving fabric like silk or chiffon to allow flow and the creation of a spectacular trompe-l’oeil. Anya Hindmarch s/s16

Graphic Stripes

J JS Lee s/s16

100

T h e C o lla b o r at io n

Massimiliano Giornetti and Sara Battaglia on:

Reawakening a Masterpiece What happens when the creative director of heritage house Salvatore Ferragamo and a young Italian designer merge their artistic minds? Only days before his departure from the brand, we met with Massimiliano Giornetti to talk about his final collaboration.

Why did the Rainbow Wedge in particular inspire this collection? Sara: It couldn’t have been anything other than the Rainbow Wedge! You immediately recognise the brand with this fantastic shoe. It’s an emblem. They originally conceptualised it in the ’30s and it’s still popular to this day – it was a brilliant choice. How did the idea for the capsule first come about? Massimiliano: It’s about trying to envision the history of Ferragamo through a fresh set of eyes. I wanted to give the project to a talent such as Sara, so that there is an opportunity to explore it completely freely – it’s important to approach the 100-year history with a free mind and without limits. It’s about linking together the talents of young designers, while revisiting the spirit of Salvatore Ferragamo. Massimiliano, Italy breeds young, talented designers. What was it that drew you towards Sara in particular? Massimiliano: I was naturally thinking about Sara, because she is an Italian woman, who understands the needs of a woman. Her attention to detail and making every aspect feel special is exceptional: The inside lining, pocket details, everything… she is a woman who both carries and designs bags. She understands the needs of a consumer and she represents the joyful, elegant and Italian culture of the brand. The collection features a few select styles of bags from the bucket shape to the popular Sofia. How did you determine these? Sara: We wanted to ensure that all areas are covered. The clutch, for example, can be worn across the body, whereas the Sofia is a classic shape known and loved by everyone. Sara, when did you first discover the house of Ferragamo? Sara: I grew up in Florence, so the brand comes as a part of our DNA! It feels completely natural to be a part of it and getting the opportunity to discover its archive was paradise to me. Massimiliano: Sara was actually working around the corner from me; we lived close to each other. Did you enjoy working together? Massimiliano: It was very easy and natural. We actually had very few meetings as I was already confident of her talent and creativity. The first time

Massimiliano Giornetti and Sara Battaglia

The original Rainbow wedge

Sara: Yes, it’s a black rainbow! This was actually very challenging as the focus is on the different types of leathers, so we needed to find a way to combine crocodile, ostrich and suede. In one combination, it’s not just black, its deep like a rainbow, and the only way to get the effect is by working with the fabrics. What was it like being face to face with their archive Sara? Sara: It was like paradise to me! What were your favourite moments during the collaboration? Massimiliano: It was an interesting process. At every step, when we started thinking about the overall theme and when Sara was exploring the archives, we tried to modernise the spirit of Salvatore Ferragamo. Sketches and sourcing the we spoke about it was in Paris, where Sara was

suppliers is always very challenging.

showing her own collection, and then she later came to Florence to visit our archive. It’s nice to

What most impressed you about Sara’s work?

share the Italian spirit, ideas and emotions with

Massimiliano: She was brave and tough enough

another designer.

to fight the odds. It’s like every season, trying to find a new limit in creativity and craftsmanship.

In terms of colour palette, there’s a very literal

The collection is extremely modern, balancing

interpretation of the Rainbow Wedge, but

the heritage of Salvatore Ferragamo out for

then there’s also a much darker side to the

the modern woman. The black rainbow is

collection. What made you take that route?

fascinating to me.

102

se a s o nal s ty le

Suit Yourself

The suit, a cornerstone of the modern womanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wardrobe, is back in an array of styles. For summer, La GarĂ§onne dressing is reinvented, taking this professional look to new heights with a spectrum of colours, patterns, and textures; turning them from a work wear staple to a possible night-out or weekend option.

Emporio Armani s/s16

Blumarine s/s16

2 The Boyfriend Suit The oversized suits of the season went up a size and are bigger and broader than ever. From a slouchy to tailored silhouette, the trendy look guarantees a sultry androgynous appeal.

Detail 1: Keep your hair and makeup girly and flirty to counter the androgynous trend. Opt for pink accents and keep the hair au-naturel for sultry movement. Detail 2: For a polished, professional look, opt for this matching set similar to a perfectly tailored Acne Studios suit, with a long torso that reveals an elongated feminine silhouette. Detail 3: Not only do a relaxed pair of wide-leg trousers feel comfortable, but they also reveal a truly stylish retro feel. Experiment with silk pyjamas in an oversized fit, like Blumarineâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s s/s16 offering.

104

2 3 The Evening Suit This season, designers dressed up the runways with fancy blazers in a plethora of textures like sequin, jacquard, stone-embellished, leopard, and so on; putting the mannish attire at the forefront a party-ready wardrobe.

Detail 1: When dressing for a night-out, be sure to add lots of feminine accessories, like statement earrings, stacks of bracelets and cocktail rings to further the glam factor. Detail 2: A sophisticated mix of textures is a fail-safe style must. This season, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re spoilt for choice with embellished pieces in velvet and jacquard. Detail 3: The right accessories can instantly update the evening suit. Look to single strapped sandals in black or nude to heighten the drama with no distractions.

Rodarte s/s16

Dolce&Gabbana s/s16

Tommy Hilfiger s/s16

1 Trussardi s/s16

3 The Retro Suit The modern reinvention of the Seventies’ classic comes complete with groovy stripes in bold retro palettes, flared bottoms and a matching necktie if you’re feeling adventurous.

Detail 1: Seventies’ stripes are no good if you don’t opt for a brightly hued palette. We love Marc Jacobs’s blood red stripes and Tommy Hilfiger’s rainbow delight. Detail 2: Layering is compulsory, even for the hotter months. Add a fancy scarf, a shirt beneath or a turtleneck for the full-blown retro look. Detail 3: Pick a flared bottom and highlight with a standout pair of heels, or go cropped and team with flat loafers, bringing the runway look to the streets.

106 The Statement Suit

Gucci s/s16

Whether you prefer wearing a matching set, or like to mix the blazer and pants with other separates, a perfectly tailored suit in creative textures can bring out the best of a feminine silhouette.

Detail 1: Give the hairstyle a runway up-do taking cues from Max Maraâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s quiff or Gucciâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sleek bun to keep distraction from the look at bay. Detail 2: Add a neutral layer to break the matchy-matchy pattern. If the weather does not allow a cashmere top then opt for silk camisoles in plain pastels. Detail 3: The key to a statement suit is to go bold or go home. If the Gucci brocade is too intimidating for you, then choose eye-catching prints like masculine plaids.

Max Mara s/s16

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Wo ma n o f S ty le

The Art of Getting Dressed Purificación García

After three decades as creative director of her eponymous label, Spanish-born Purificación García has perfected the art of knowing what women want. With an artistic eye that extends to authoring the book Tener Estilo and establishing the prestigious Purificación García Photography Prize, García is an eternally contemporary Renaissance woman.

On photography: I have worked with photographers Chema Madoz and Juan Gatti. We work a lot with poetic photographs and a poetic philosophy. I like black and white photography so much because it is neutral, you can express whatever you feel, including the feeling of the brand. On life lessons: I have faced a lot of rocky

On the art of getting dressed: A woman should

paths along my journey. The most important

have clothes in her closet that are coherent and

thing is to get up again and keep going. You

easy, things that work together so that it is not

have to learn from it.

difficult for her to choose an outfit for the day. I try to help women not to see their wardrobe as

On women around the world: Whether she is

their enemy: The versatility of the garments and

from Germany, China or Japan, the feeling of the

the coexistence of classic and trendy achieve a

woman is the same. Women need the right clothes

balanced wardrobe.

at the right moment. We live very quickly and need clothes to pack, travel and go.

On cultivating style: She has to be herself, first of all. The simpler, the better. Choose what you like

On the most stylish woman: There are lots, but

–whether a strong jacket or a dress – it’s important

Angelina Jolie. She is very stylish and elegant.

to choose something that makes you unique. I On daily dressing: For me, I have a very casual

interesting, with her contradictions, her changes

style. I wear sneakers and jackets that I can

of mind and weaknesses, which after all are sides

work in.

of her wonderful complexity. On the Middle East: It was very important for me On what to avoid: Everything in excess.

to bring the brand to the Middle East, as it is

Whether it’s makeup or jewellery, everything

the centre of the world. All brands are available

should be simple.

in Dubai: It’s global. And, the Emirates are great for art.

On style influences: Since I was young, I have been autodidactic. I like to wear my own line. I

On success: I am not interested in fashion as a

consider myself a stylist who knows her business

privilege of the few. Success is not measured

and the needs of the street.

only by who wears your clothes, but by how many wear them.

On art: It is very important that art and fashion always work together. There is a momentum

On a philosophy for life: Time is my luxury – to

– they come from the same information, from

spend with my kids, with my dog and to listen

the same details.

to music. Finding a balance is very important.

Interview by Natalie Trevis. Images courtesy of Purificacion Garcia.

Designer and founder Purificación García

do not like definitions. I find the real female more

Photography by Chema Madoz

110

B e h i nd th e Scene s

Access All Areas

For backstage photographer Jason Lloyd-Evans, the fashion show season involves five months of living on the road, non-stop shooting and backstage access to some of the most coveted shows of the season. We follow him behind the scenes to see fashion week through his lens.

What was this season like to shoot? Every city is different. The autumn/winter season is tough because I do menswear in January, I do couture and then I’ve got the month of womenswear shows. It’s a lot to be thinking about doing, but once you’re up and running with it after three days in New York, you’re up to speed. You need the adrenalin, you need to be in the flow of it. It was a really good season. How do you cope with the frenetic pace? You must have to be quite quick on your feet backstage. It’s like playing fly-half rugby at school! The thing with backstage is that a lot of people want backstage pictures: It’s good for the PRs because the images appear in the magazines, and it’s good for the casting directors and the hair and makeup artists, because it’s profiling their work. In one sense, we are very wanted there. In another sense, we are kind of a pain. As photographers, we think the show is about what’s going on backstage, but it’s really what happens when the show starts. Besides shooting in all the different locations backstage and being very active, you also have to be quite a simpatico person, who gets on with people and can assess situations, because it could be anyone who makes a fuss about you being there, whether a stylist or a designer freaking out. As long as you get on with everyone and everyone thinks you’re not the

By Natalie Trevis

How did you get your break?

annoying photographer, you’re alright.

When I was getting into photography, I started to think about travelling to the shows, and I met and

How do you approach each show?

assisted Sean Cunningham, who was shooting

You need to be a bit instinctive on how it’s going

backstage for Harper’s Bazaar US. I didn’t have

to play out. There are certain images that work

a clue about assisting. What I used to do was

because I feel they fit with a show and each show

set him up with his camera and just go off with

is different so you have to be a bit schizophrenic.

my own to snap. I was quite lucky, because as

If you are shooting an editorial you have a distinct

an assistant, you often don’t get the chance to

style, but when you’re shooting shows and you’re

shoot; but, through that, I was able to get the

working across all of the brands, you are trying to

ball rolling with my own clients. My big break was

reflect each one. For example, Jil Sander when Raf

with 10 Magazine. I met the editor-in chief, Sophia

Simons was there is very different than shooting

Neophitou – this was 12 years ago when there

a Dolce & Gabbana show backstage. You have

were backstage pictures, but there weren’t really

to flip what you are actually trying to get out of

profiles as such – and the magazine decided to

the pictures in each case, not least because you

run about 24 pages per season just on backstage.

are working for multiple titles and what works

It got the work profiled and as soon as you start

for I-D is different than what works for Glamour

getting that exposure, other brands jump on it.

or Vogue. If you’re backstage at a certain show,

you might have a really short time to shoot it. You need to set yourself a challenge: Just turning up and doing a bit of beauty, doing a bit of fashion, doesn’t really work. What are some of the best bits of shooting backstage? In Paris, you can go from doing Givenchy to Dior, to all these other different shows, within one day. And in that one day you’ve seen the creativity of the likes of Guido Palau, Eugene Souleiman and Pat McGrath as well as all the top stylists, models and the collections that haven’t been seen before. It’s crazy to think that you are in a position where that is all happening at once and being witness to that creative process. It’s not a normal shoot environment, like if you were on location with 20 people and a closed set. There are troops of people, there’s a time pressure, there’s a show about to happen, there’s production, casting, all these different factions – the fact that it actually works is a great thing. How has the industry changed for you over time? Backstage photography has been around for a long while now and it’s an exciting time trying to find different ways to create unique content. Say this season for example, in some shows, like Rag & Bone, I was using a Fuji polaroid camera. It’s about doing something that is personal to you, but also that the brands will pick up on and want to work with you for. Another show I might try and shoot on my Monochrom Leica. How has social media changed your world? Our whole take on what the images should be has changed because of social media. Previously, you used to shoot a frame and that was your frame, but now sometimes you have to think about that image being squared off. When I first started, I was young – I was more of a kid just going out and having fun with it. I’d go out in the evening and party. As you get older, you do that less anyway, but I also think the industry – because of the demands of it – has changed. You have a need for content right away, so images have to be edited and processed immediately. It’s a different game. It’s fun in a different way now.

112 Jil Sander spring/summer 2011 When Raf Simons was at Jil Sander, I used to shoot in-house for them and, especially in Milan, where you have the fashion powerhouses, he was just something really unique. I remember that show in particular was really colourful and bright and started that whole trend of colour blocking. I couldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t talk about shooting the shows without mentioning him, because when he was there, all the girls that did the shows for him really respected him: He is such an intelligent designer.

Louis Vuitton autumn/winter 2009 This image is from Marc Jacobs’s time at Louis Vuitton. This was quite a fun collection with the bunny ears. The thing with Louis Vuitton was that you were never really allowed access backstage, so if you got there and shot something, it was alright. You’ve done 25 days, shooting every day, and that’s pretty much the last show on the last day. It’s the final challenge of fashion month to get to shoot it, and nine times out of 10, I would.

114

Chanel Haute Couture autumn/winter 2015 Chanel is one of those epic shows. It’s really strict backstage, so when it’s your time to do it, it’s always nice. It is amazing shooting it backstage, but funnily it’s sometimes, ridiculously, better front of house, like when the set was a huge supermarket. It’s the sets, the guests, the whole thing. It’s a big insane show and one where you never know what’s going to be thrown at you.

116

Dolce & Gabbana autumn/winter 2012 For this Dolce & Gabbana show, I shot a cover and story for the Telegraph. It’s always really nice to have a set focus when doing a show. I like the clean graphic nature of it, that’s the way I like to shoot: Where the girls aren’t necessarily looking and you’ve got the elements of the clothes. The girls all have their numbers with them as well. Dolce & Gabbana is a great client to work with. Shooting on location in Alta Moda every summer is a really unique experience.

Prada autumn/winter 2013 You get to Milan and you want to do Prada. It’s always the show of the season, whether it’s a really good one or not. When I look back over the archive, it’s always got its own totally unique sense of style. It’s very conceptual, but it also has that sense of humour with it as well. Even if it’s dark, it’s kind of playful. There’s a lot of energy and a lot of fun at Prada.

118

The Young Victoria Gallant but emotive, innocent but determined, pretty but empowered – summer’s take on Victorian-inspired styles says everything about the woman you’ve become.

Photographed by Vivienne Balla Styled by Olivia Cantillon

Jacket, shorts and collar, CHRISTIAN DIOR

120

Dress, ERDEM | Shoes, STUART WEITZMAN | Earrings, GUCCI

Shirt, MSGM at S*uce

122

Dress and top, FENDI

Dress, PRADA

124

Dress and trousers, ETRO | Shoes, SALVATORE FERRAGAMO | Necklace, CHRISTIAN DIOR

126

Top and trousers, CHLOÃ&#x2030; | Shoes, STUART WEITZMAN

Shirt, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN | Skirt, SONIA RYKIEL @net-a-porter.com | Shoes, STELLA MCCARTNEY | Brooch, OSCAR DE LA RENTA

128

Shirt, FENDI | Shorts, ALEXIE at Bloomingdales

Top, ALEXIE at S*uce

130

Dress and shoes, GUCCI

Model: Angelika at MMG Models Hair and makeup artist: Annesofie Begtrup Editor: Kelly Baldwin With special thanks to Al Barari

132

End Cre dits Determined, considered and fearless - Raf Simonsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; tenure at the house of Christian Dior was short in its time scale but mighty in its message. Here we offer homage to his final vision.

Photographed by Danilo Hess Styled by Sofia Odero

Bar jacket, cotton top, pleated skirt and shoes, CHRISTIAN DIOR

134

Bar jacket and Dioroscope necklace, CHRISTIAN DIOR

Silk organza dress, cotton top, cotton shorts, shoes and earrings, CHRISTIAN DIOR

136

Sleeveless jacket, cotton top and Dioroscope necklace, CHRISTIAN DIOR

Silk organza dress, cotton top, cotton shorts and earrings, CHRISTIAN DIOR

138

Sleeveless jacket, cotton top, pleated skirt, Dioroscope necklace and Dioressence shoes, CHRISTIAN DIOR

Bar jacket, cotton shorts, Diorever bag, CHRISTIAN DIOR

140

Embroidered chiffon dress, cotton top, cotton shorts and earrings, CHRISTIAN DIOR

Silk organza dress, cotton top, cotton shorts and earrings, CHRISTIAN DIOR

142

Three-piece short suit and Dioroscope necklace, CHRISTIAN DIOR

Silk organza dress, cotton top, cotton shorts and earrings, CHRISTIAN DIOR

Models: Luciana at IMG NYC Marcelina at One Management Makeup artist: Elena Perdikomati Hair stylist: Jeff Francis Local production: Utopia Production: Louis Agency

144

Blooming In Style High jewellery has the ability to evoke the many moods of a woman. From soft romance to a fiercer form, see our edit of the Cartier pieces to flourish from.

Photographed by KARINA TWISS Styled by JAMES V. THOMAS

High Jewellery earrings and ring with pear-shaped and brilliant-cut diamonds in platinum, CARTIER | Dress, LOUIS VUITTON

146

High Jewellery bracelet with 10 heartshaped diamonds, baguette-cut diamonds and brilliant-cut diamonds in platinum, CARTIER | Jumper, ACNE STUDIOS | Skirt, STELLA MCCARTNEY

Panthere de Cartier earrings with 374 brilliant-cut diamonds, onyx in yellow gold, and Panthere de Cartier necklace with 1,929 brilliant-cut diamonds, onyx in white gold, CARTIER | Top, CĂ&#x2030;LINE

148

High Jewellery necklace with pearshaped diamonds and brilliant-cut diamonds in platinum, CARTIER | Dress, SAINT LAURENT PARIS

DestinĂŠe Solitaire ring with brilliant-cut diamonds in platinum, and Juste un Clou bracelet with set with 624 brilliant-cut diamonds in white gold, CARTIER | Top and jumper, CHRISTIAN DIOR

150

High Jewellery necklace with 14 heart-shaped diamonds, baguettecut diamonds and brilliant-cut diamonds in platinum, CARTIER | Dress, BALENCIAGA

High Jewellery earrings with pear-shaped diamonds and brilliant-cut diamonds in platinum, Juste un Clou ring set with 77 brilliant-cut diamonds in white gold, and High Jewellery bracelet with pear-shaped diamonds and brilliant-cut diamonds in platinum, CARTIER | Sleeveless jacket, LANVIN | Fur stole, MIU MIU

152

High Jewellery necklace with eight emerald drops, cultured pearls and brilliant-cut diamonds in platinum, and High Jewellery bracelet with engraved emeralds, brilliant-cut diamonds in platinum, CARTIER | Top, ANTHONY VACCARELLO

Model: Maja Mayskar at IMG Photographerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s assistants: Marco Rochas ClĂŠmentine at Studio Zero Digital assistant: Manu Pestrinaux at Imagin Makeup artist: Maria Olson Hair stylist: Kazue Deki Manicurist: Virginie Mataja Production: Louis Agency

Words by Sophie Pasztor

154 h i g h notes

Coach

2 3

Phoenix of Fire Jewellers distil earth tones of silver, rose, brown and gold, skilfully manipulating them into beautiful works of art. Opt for designs focusing on architectural form, such as Robert Wanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s pearl ring, to add some structure to the otherwise earthy hues. 1. PARMIGIANI FLEURIER | 2. NAYLA ARIDA at S*uce Rocks | 3. CHANEL | 4. BVLGARI | 5. S*uce Rocks

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CHRISTIAN DIOR

Treasure Trove Take a step back in time and uncover the meticulousness of details in vintage inspired pieces. Adorn a crisp white palette for timeless elegance and look towards precious pearls and hypnotic diamonds to add interest. Wear with casual attire to propel the pieces into the modern day. 1. CHRISTIAN DIOR | 2. CHANEL | 3. CARTIER | 4. ELISE DRAY @Matchesfashion.com | 5. FORTUNA JEWELRY at S*uce Rocks

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J e w ellery d is cove ry

Zambia, Africa - home to the world’s largest emerald mine owned by Gemfields.

Reimagining

the Stone By Kelly Baldwin

For centuries emeralds have been celebrated as emblems of beauty and power but today they have even greater intentions. We travelled to Africa to discover the world’s largest mine, where the stone’s real worth is being uncovered.

Driving through a small and relatively desolate town in the heart of Zambia was invigorating to say the least. The fresh, untouched air flowed against my face, arresting in its energy while the vast landscape – a heady blend of gold, beige and crisp greens – offered a vast and infinite vision of serenity. Under the burnt orange and deep dusky pink light of sunset, this was Africa at its most breathtaking. But there was more to it, the spirit and pull of its atmosphere suggested something magical, a type of beauty that at this point, on the first of our four-

Fabergé pieces using Gemfields’ Zambian emeralds..

day expedition, could only be felt and not seen. We were here to discover what lies unearthed. “There is no stone the colour of which is more delightful to the eye, for whereas the sight fixes itself with avidity upon the green grass and the foliage of the trees, we have all the more pleasure in looking upon the emerald, there being no green in existence more intense than this,” wrote Pliny, a Roman scholar from the 19th century. As the sun set on the south of Africa, we had made it to our final destination deep in the Zambian Emerald Belt, just south of Kitwe, to the west of the Copperbelt Province and 100 miles from Victoria Falls. This is now home to the world’s largest Emerald mine, Kagem, spanning 41 square kilometres and owned by gemstone company Gemfields. Even at nighttime it was striking as the air danced with energy and the ambience signalled towards something perplexingly beautiful. Had we left in that moment, without stepping foot on the mine or having set eyes on an emerald, I would have still held the belief that something charmed happens on this plot of land. ‘Emerald’ derives from the Persian word meaning

For ‘in the know’ buyers and those with a

green gem and has enjoyed a very rich history.

conscience, second to whether a high jewellery

Said to have first been discovered in Egypt under

piece is a Fabergé or Van Cleef, what’s important is

Cleopatra’s rule, it later became the gem of

that their emerald is Zambian and mined at Kagem,

choice for powerful women, from Queen Victoria

for reasons we’d discover. “Our approach is to set

to Jacqueline Onassis, and was recognised as the

new benchmarks for environmental, social and

greatest emblem of prowess and power by the

safety practices in the coloured gemstone sector.

Maharajahs of India. Fine emerald has only ever

Recognising our leadership role, we are working to

been found in fewer than 20 countries. Of these,

support increased transparency across the wider

only 11 are capable of producing quality stones,

downstream supply chain,” says Ian Harebottle,

but at incredibly small quantities. And so, while

Gemfields’ CEO. Here we met a small group of

diamonds and other coloured gemstones danced

impassioned people graciously redefining the way

around the necks of women, emeralds lay almost

the world approaches the gemstone, from the

dormant for decades, either lost in the personal

method used to mine it and the route used to reach

collections of Andy Warhol and Elizabeth Taylor,

the consumer (private auctioning), to its impact on

or buried metres underground in Brazil, Colombia

the surrounding society.

and Zambia, (the latter of which has now become its

On waking the next morning, we embarked on a

capital city and is where we took two plane journeys

short journey to the top of a cliff where a visual

and a rather volatile car journey to reach).

masterpiece presented itself upon looking down

160 on the mine. Deep rivers of silvery black markings

Islamic lore, the medicinal effects of emeralds have

ran through it - each a natural indication of where

garnered much conversation since 13th century

emeralds might have once formed - defining the

scholar Ahmad ibn Yusuf Al Tifaschi suggested

great big grey pit. Few and very, very far between,

that it could strengthen eyesight, protect from

the mineralisation of the stone can only happen

epilepsy and diminish stomach related diseases.

when two different and contrasting rocks merge

The jeweller Rajroop Tank once set out the merits

under unique conditions. In the case of Zambian

that a fine emerald should posses and including

emeralds, it was the specific combination of the

luminescence, reflection and richness of colour, he

1.6-billion-year-old high-grade metamorphic rock

also cited: “It should captivate the heart and bring

named the Talc Magnetitie Schist and the younger

a feeling of peace to the mind, it should almost

500-million-year-old intruding pegmatite. Over

physically soothe the eye.”

millions of years, the chemical reaction between

Perhaps it was the vast and astonishing

the two rocks allowed emerald fluids to be collected

landscape surrounding us, the fresh Zambian

and later crystalized. Once a trace element of

air, it might have even been the few days respite

chromium is absorbed, it creates the rich, green

from an office and computer screen, or just

hue – spectacular and almost enigmatic.

maybe it was the fragments of exceptional

We carefully walked down the exterior of the open

stones being plucked from the earth, but I was

mine and stood at one of these points, observing

the calmest I’d felt for a long time.

the process while a handful of men delicately dug for

With its flexible and mysterious nature, the stone

the rare stone. Like small green fireballs being pulled

has provoked much conversation and this has

from the earth, pieces of the precious material were

been evident through the pages of MOJEH.

uncovered, light shattered through each one and imploded along its natural curves and rough edges. “Of all the precious stones this is the only one that feeds the sight without satiating it. Neither sunshine, shade nor artificial light effects any change in its appearance,” said Pliny. “Even when the vision has been fatigued…it is refreshed by being turned upon this stone, there is nothing more gratefully soothing for the eyes.” Hours passed in the unforgiving African heat and less than a handful were found. One perhaps big enough to eventually claim a spot along Bond Street or Via Montenapoleane while the rest were tiny, almost dust sized fragments but perfect for decoration on watch faces. Other than the impressiveness of the discoveries, what was most remarkable was the temperament on set - calm, almost subdued. The greatest of juxtaposition considering the might and worth of an emerald. It was in this moment, 105 metres down and surrounded by earth, that we discussed the gem’s apparent healing powers. In as early as the 2nd and 3rd centuries the emerald was believed to harness intellect and an ability to communicate, through its alignment with the planet Mercury. Hindu culture later cited it as a powerful energy source that was able to lift a person’s aura, and subsequently low-grade stones were thought to bring unhappiness and misfortune. In

Right: A rough emerald found in a reaction zone inside the open pit mine. Above: An aerial shot of Gemfieldsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; mining area in Zambia. Left: Necklace set with Gemfieldsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Zambian emeralds, Dhamani. Photographed for MOJEH Issue 32

162

With its flexible and mysterious nature, the stone has provoked much conversation and this has been evident through the pages of MOJEH.

Left: Necklace set with various emeralds in different hues, Piaget. Photographed for MOJEH JW Issue 2. Below: Emerald ring surrounded with pink sapphires, Christian Dior. Photographed for MOJEH Issue 12+1.

Above: Emeralds surrounded with yellow diamond, pink sapphire, tsavorite garnet and diamonds, Wallace Chan. Photographed for MOJEH JW Issue 1. Right: Emerald earrings, Christian Dior. Photographed for MOJEH Issue 25.

Its interchangeable beauty allows for a rich offering of diverse jewellery pieces, but seeing it in its rawest of forms, only just unearthed, is most magnetising.

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Left: Graded emeralds inside the Kagem sorting house. Right: Ring featuring a Zambian emerald, Giampiero Bodino. Photographed for MOJEH JW Issue 2.

As the centrepiece of a Giampiero Bodino emerald

are still carried out by hand at Kagem, where the

and diamond ring for example (seen below), the

world’s most comprehensive grading system

stone stands tall and robust with its rich green light

has been established. On walking around the

projecting itself onto the surrounding diamonds.

site over the following days and in speaking with

Deep, dark and commanding. Alternatively, smaller

those responsible for most of Zambia’s emeralds

pieces in different gradients are scattered across

- gemologists, archaeologists and miners who in

a Piaget necklace and form a delicate flowerbed

the main originate from nearby towns and have

where size and colour creates the ultimate light

worked at the mine for decades – we found a

show cascading throughout the piece. Other than

profound dedication to ethical and transparent

size, cut and facets, the most important measure

mining methods to be the one factor anchoring

of quality in an emerald is its colour, and green or

everyone together, and since acquiring Kagem

very slightly bluish green tend to be more desirable,

in 2007, Gemfields have been successful in

both of which Kagem possesses when you search

their quest to lift the world’s appreciation of

far enough. Its interchangeable beauty allows for a

the stone, while setting the highest standards

rich offering of diverse jewellery pieces, but seeing

in mining and selling.

it in its rawest of forms, only just unearthed, is

There’s a raw and innocent elegance felt through

most magnetising.

their work, also seen in their campaigns, the first

The journey from discovery to eventually finding

of which found Peter Lindbergh photographing

its home in a jewellery piece is of course a long

Mila Kunis in a rare and intimate moment. “I think

and delicate one, and many components, from

it was probably the most natural I’ve ever felt on

washing and sorting to grading and later polishing

a shoot. It was all about being free, present and totally at peace with nature and the environment,” the actress said in 2014 after visiting Kagem. “While in Africa, I learned that the entire journey that each Gemfields’ stone takes is carefully considered and that the environment and the local communities where its mines are located are held in the highest regard.” On our final day in Zambia we took the same journey as Mila by visiting the surrounding schools and hospitals funded by Gemfields. In an industry still facing challenges such as bribery, corruption, land rights and grave environmental impacts, it was encouraging to see a colourful and welcoming community clearly benefiting from having an international gemstone house on its doorstep. Other than being responsible for 20 percent of the world’s emerald production, this is Gemfields’ greatest success. As we departed and I took in my surroundings one final time, it struck me that in all the colours that offer this small corner of Africa its magnetism – the deep blue river running through, the marbled beige and bronze dust making up the dirt track leading us away from Kagem, the soft olive roughage framing said river and track – one hue, arguably the most powerful of them all, lays silent and invisible, metres below. But it’s the hidden emerald that’s provoking the powers of change.

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T h e P i ec e

Refined Time

A new model of sophistication has been designed, seamlessly merging functionality and beauty. The seductive beauty of Bulgariâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Diva watch echoes the essence of femininity and tailors it to combine a dynamic complexity. Slim and sensual, the enthralling timepiece has been devised with a delicate 30 mm case for practicality. Stemming inspiration for its design from Roman culture, the artisans from Bulgari infuse comparable design elements from antique mosaics. Drawing on the sleek and polished finish of the tiles, they create a soft satin strap that provides both comfort and style. A diamond-pavĂŠ dial is set with 233 brilliant-cut diamonds and set with an 18 karat white gold pin buckle. Each and every element of its design and functionality has been meticulously thought out. The level of detail and craftsmanship employed in the watch positions it to not only Haute Horlogerie, but also a piece of fine

Words by Sophie Pasztor

jewellery. This timeless piece will perfectly complement any modern womanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s existing collection.

A Woman’s

R i t ua l We uncover the newest edition to Piaget’s captivating Possession collection. Swiss fine jewellery and watchmaker Piaget is expanding its stunning Possession collection with a new bracelet. Injecting the same level of expertise and craftsmanship into its designs, the artisans behind this latest piece have offered a sense of familiarity to its newest member. The design showcases the original turning ring in each of the bracelet’s two ends. Formed in pink or white gold, the bracelets have the ability to decorate the wrist in either stackable arrangements or be left alone as a refined sentiment. The Words by Sophie Pasztor

choice is yours – to create your own ritual of accessorising. Adorned for any occasion, the charm of its allure will make for an exquisite extension of your personality. Its ‘turn and the world is yours’ campaign highlights the conscious or unconscious lore of the Possession collection – where the hypnotic charm of the original rings’ turning mechanism will have you captivated. The collection allows you to freely choose your own individual jewellery ritual, offering you an endless realm of divine possibilities.

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T h e T r end

The

Brooch Code

The once archived accessory is stepping into the light this season. Adorn yourself with the world’s most versatile piece of fine jewellery, the brooch. We have seen a resurgence in retro styles on the a/w16 runways, with John Galliano’s Edwardian inspired designs or Isabel Marant’s infusion of Eighties fever as examples. But, we cannot shy away from this season’s heirloom brooch for being the vintage accessory of the moment. The 18th century saw the versatile object fasten finery, such as coloured feathers and treasured fabrics, to one’s clothing. By the 19th century, the brooch expanded into many decorative styles, in turn widening its appeal. Whether one is ornately positioned to one side of your evening dress or delicately pinned to the lapel of an elegant suit, we can’t help but be wooed by the sartorial power of this opulent jewel. Their generous size provides a perfect canvas to exhibit an artisan’s talent, where meticulous workmanship can be showcased in impeccable detail. No one does this better than Cindy Chao – her sculptural threedimensional creations use a 360-degree gem-setting technique, making her designs distinctly dynamic. Look to one of the world’s oldest and most loved

Words by Sophie Pasztor

accessories for spring and breathe new life into this age-old piece.

Brooch, CINDY CHAO

EVERYTHING IN MOJEH MAGAZINE IS AVAILABLE TO

BY CONTACTING LOUIS FOURTEEN.

T : + 9 7 1

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S t yl e I ns ider

Adelya Bakhtiyarova at home in Dubai, photographed by Michelle at The Factory ME. Adelya wears Envy Hand Bangle with black, champagne and white diamonds in 18k rose gold | Love Letter collection, letter M in diamonds set in 18k white gold | Love Capsule collection evil eye bracelet with black and white diamonds set in 18k yellow gold | Baroque collection roses ring with white and champagne diamonds in 18k rose gold | Love Capsule lock necklace with white diamonds in 18k yellow gold | Line collection earrings with diamonds in 18k rose gold | dress, Chanel

Precious

Char m s Jewellery designer Adelya Bakhtiyarova of Adelya Jewellery has a natural instinct for all things rare and precious. The Dubai-based fashion fanatic tells us what jewellery means to her, and her favourite ways to wear it.

Inspiration always starts with the stones for me, because I love their natural colours and I’m fascinated with looking at them under the microscope. All of my designs always come out of that. When it comes to wearing jewellery myself, I go through stages. Sometimes, I like to be very bold, but right now, I’m going through a slightly more conservative stage. I like the letters from my Love Letters collection: I wear my own letter, my boyfriend’s, my sister’s, it all really depends on my mood. Sometimes, I wear four letters on my forefingers and it looks kind of cool when you can almost spell something. It’s very personal. I’m into creating personal things, like the Zodiac keys, which include the stones of the zodiac. It’s quite important to wear your own stone. Certain elements in these minerals don’t always work with our bodies, which is why sometimes we feel bad or good if we wear a certain stone. A lot of stones have these positive qualities. I love to play around and mix different metals and stones. If you wear white and rose gold together, they offer a contrast to each other and pop more. I think it’s what gives layered jewellery an interesting look. I don’t have any rules – I mix all my semi-precious stones with the precious – and it always depends on my mood. For the evening, I tend to wear something that I want to focus on, whether it’s a big pair of earrings or a string of pearls, and would keep my rings very simple and small. If I want to wear a really huge ring, like the flower Kaleidoscope rings, then I’ll just wear the ring and let everything else fade out it’s a natural ruby. Rubies and emeralds age and they are very soft, it’s quite easy to break them, so I try not to touch the setting and I wear it as it is, layered up with other rings around it to make it look more modern. For me, it’s always a little black dress that shows off a great piece of jewellery. Black suits everybody. I really like to show some leg, because I think that’s very feminine and beautiful: A little black dress is definitely a canvas.

Interview by Natalie Trevis

a little bit. Otherwise, pieces get lost. I have a really pretty ring from my grandmother;

I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have any rules - I mix all my semi-precious stones with the precious - it always depends on my mood.

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B e au ty F o cus

Laurels of Arabia

The tales of Middle Eastern beauty rituals date back to over thousands of years and have been passed on through generations. The best kept secrets to the luscious raven hair and olive skin glow lie in the wealth of the regionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s offerings of enriched produce and geographic delights. Across the following pages we look at the skincare and wellness tricks Arabian women are keeping in their beauty arsenals, and celebrate the cultural riches of the great Middle Eastern terrains.

Glamour Cruise, photographed by Greg Gex in the Middle East, MOJEH Issue No 2

Moroccan Black Soap, Elma and Sana Key Ingredient: Black Olive Oil and Eucalyptus Derived from: Morocco

Facial Toner, Suti Key Ingredient: Rose Water Derived from: Egyptian and Persian Roots

Body Mud, Ahava Key Ingredient: Dead Sea Minerals Derived from: Jordan and Lebanon

Sweet Orange and Cinnamon Soap, The Camel Factory Key Ingredient: Camel Milk Derived from: Egypt

Facial Ubtan, Forest Essentials Key Ingredient: Turmeric Derived from: Iran Rhassoul Clay, Biopark Key Ingredient: Rhassoul Clay Derived from: Atlas mountains of Morocco

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The terrains of the Middle East offer a wealth of landscapes to enjoy natural sollutions to workouts.

The Great Outdoors Whether you’re looking to lose weight, increase fitness levels or just show your soul some love, it’s time to break free

from the gym and embrace the benefits of Mother Nature.

“Exercising outdoors leaves you feeling revitalised, helps decrease feelings of anger and increases overall energy and vitality levels, too” says Claire Falconer, Dubaibased personal trainer, health coach and advocate for using what the earth offers in both workouts and diet. “The best part about it is that is doesn’t even feel like exercise – it can be fun and explorative. There’s nothing more exhilarating than doing something enjoyable and

We all understand the allure of the gym. The air

exploring the UAE’s adventure races such, as WadiBih,

conditioning, the convenience and the predictability

where you get to run in between the beautiful and cool

of your workouts make for a pretty safe exercise

valleys and mountains of Oman.”

environment, especially here where we tend to enjoy

There’s no denying we need to feed our soul with

just a handful of months of bearable weather. Yet,

nature’s antidote to stressful, modern-day living by

at the same time, artificial light, climate control and

ditching the gym. “Sunshine – that’s definitely one of

crowded spaces are all things we’re all exposed to

the most important reasons for training outdoors,” says

on a day-to-day basis at the office and home, so why

Ronny Terry, a UK-based personal trainer, who dedicates

do you need any more? Emerging science suggests

his time to getting people lean and strong using natural

there are benefits to exercising outdoors that can’t be

terrains. An alarming rate of UAE residents are vitamin

replicated on a treadmill, and at MOJEH, we agree

D deficient, so spending more time in the sun will help

that there’s no better training ground than the great

raise levels and keep our bones strong. “Research

outdoors. Fresh air, beach access and green grass – we

shows it can decrease the risk of type-2 diabetes,

have entry to some of the most beautiful terrains in the

too, and help improve our mood,” he continues.

world, so why not utilise them at any given moment.

“Variety is another hugely important factor,” says Ronny.

“The hill programmes on treadmills and x-trainers can’t compete with the good old outdoors. The changes in gradient, camber and even wind resistance can help keep things fresh and burn more energy.” For one thing, you stride differently when running outdoors. Studies find that people flex their ankles more, and will occasionally run downhill, something that isn’t easily done on the treadmill. The same dynamic can be applied to cycling, where the wind drag can result in much greater energy demands during 25 miles of outdoor cycling compared to the same distance on a stationary bike. Perfect for when you have minimal time, but want to burn maximal calories. Perhaps the most important benefits of all, however, are mental stimulation and well-being. “The agonising

Libya

process of watching the miles mount up on the treadmill,

What to do: With endless highlands of the undiscovered city of Nalut, set amidst an arid desert, ancient ruins and high mountains, is perfect for an adventurous mountain trek and climbing trip. When: November to March

or the glorious backdrops of local beauty spots? You decide,” says Ronny. It’s amazing how simply looking at pictures of nature can lower blood pressure and bring us to a calm state, so actually experiencing them first hand takes this to a whole new level. “Exercising in nature can reduce stress and lift self-esteem,” he continues. “Even without sunshine, getting active outside will clear your mind, energise your body and promote feelings of happiness.” And, let’s not forget the benefits to our body caused by sweating – the chemical releases, removal of toxins and weight-loss opportunities are endless. Sweating is half of what constitutes health. How exactly do you go about it? While jogging and cycling are amazing for health benefits, they don’t always lead to muscle-build and toning that same way that hitting the machines at a gym can achieve, but that doesn’t make it any less possible. “I see how outdoor gyms have grown so quickly out here in Dubai,” says body coach Daniel Sten, Swedish boxing champion and trainer to some of the most prestigious royal women in

Jordan What to do: The ancient Nabatean route is filled with the mystic of the city of Petra that is carved in rock in a hidden valley. Adventure enthusiasts make their way from Amman to Wadi Araba on hiking trips that last over a week. When: September to March

the UAE. “The purpose of these spaces is to encourage physical activity and improve quality of life, making them a free invitation to exercise in a colourful and different environment.” If all you’ve got is your own body weight, a bench and a chair, even a dedication to squats and bench presses will reap rewards. We spend so much of our lives working, subjected to a stressful and intense routine full of goals and deadlines that most of the time, we just want to return to the sanctuary of our cosy home and trusted television set. We forget how amazing and peaceful it is to sit in front of the sea and hear the roar of the waves, or the feeling of heading to the tops of the mountains to clear our busy minds. “Exercising in the fresh air is the best and total combination of health, brain and mind,” says Daniel. “It’s by far the best way to decrease levels of the stress hormone cortisol and something we don’t experience anywhere near enough.” It’s all about connecting with the outdoors, with nature.

Morocco What to do: Explore the great terrain of the High Sahara Desert on mountain bikes, pedalling more than 31 miles a day across along old jeep tracks, sipping mint tea in Berber villages, and camping at ancient kasbahs. When: October to April

176 One Desert Journey at The Spa, The Palace Downtown, Dubai Taking you on a true Arabian beauty adventure, the One Desert Journey begins with a dry body scrub using a home made concoction of desert sand, salt and naturally cleansing Aragon oil. It gently removes dead skin cells and promotes healthy blood circulation while the oil pumps moisture back in to the body. After a warm shower using the Spa’s herb infused products, you indulge in a full body massage using a hot ‘oussada’ cushion and an energising ‘khemoussa’ pouch. The sounds of Arabia gently flow in the background while the smell of Moroccan mint melds its way through the body.

What do you know about Halal cosmetics? We’re seeing an increasing interest and a growing niche market for ‘halal’ beauty that cater to Muslim clients. Major beauty giants including Shiseido and Estée Lauder, have also tapped into the growing global halal consumer market. But, what does it really mean and how is it different from regular products? “Halal”—essentially means “permissible”— and is one of the tenets of morality in Islam, Halal cosmetics prohibit the inclusion of animal-derived ingredients or animal testing and also stresses on the significance of a holistic lifestyle. The holistic all-natural organic appeal is very attractive to Muslims and non-Muslims within the affluent Middle Eastern market. Major halalonly brands such as One Pure Beauty and Amara Cosmetics have an array of lipsticks, serums and hair products with all natural goodness.

Cleopatra Milk Wrap, Cleopatra spa, Wafi Pyramids, Dubai If the majestic architecture and ornate interiors inspired by ancient Egypt don’t convince you enough, the opulence and richness of the treatments at the Cleopatra’s Spa will surely turn you into a believer. Guests are treated like royalty from the moment they step into the fantasy world of ancient pharaohs and the royal indulgence of the Cleopatra Milk Wrap will leave you feeling like a goddess. A combination of full body scrub and a nourishing milk mask and finish with a body wrap to ease away your aches and pains in a relaxed serenity.

Homegrown Produce in Local Restaurants There is no better time than the beginning of spring to hit the refresh button on your health and wellbeing. We’re seeing a diverse range of restaurants and cafés popping up around the block, offering organic, sustainable and local options, utilising the wealth of delicious offerings from the Emirati land. The newly opened Levantine- Emirati restaurant, Siraj is on our radar this month for its authentic homemade jams and pickles and use of genuine regional spices and ingredients.

Jumeirah Dhevanafushi, Maldives TStretched across two islands, this enchanting hideaway offers lush foliage, crystal blue waters and stretches of white sandy beach to create a wellness sanctuary. The exotic retreat offers an idyllic island escape to immerse in the wealth of nature incorporating an array of ayurvedic practices to promote organic wellbeing. The Talise spa offers a variety of bathing rituals. The Rose Bliss in particular is a divine experience that includes a rose and tuberose blend with argan oil and shea butter to nurture the deepest sense of bliss.

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B e au ty F o cus

Your

Game Living in the Middle East, we have the advantage of basking in glorious year-long sunshine. So, why do we have one of the highest records of vitamin D deficiency worldwide? MOJEH investigates.

If there’s one thing that we’re not short on here,

SPF content. This, in turn, blocks vitamin D from

it would be an abundance of sunshine. Yet,

penetrating into the skin.”

ironically, when it comes to vitamin D levels, a

Studies show individuals with pigmented skin

recent study announced at the third international

are also less able to convert sun exposure to

conference on vitamin D deficiency showed

vitamin D, whereas pregnant women use up their

that UAE residents have some of the lowest

resources much faster. Other factors to take into

figures in global records, with 78 per cent of

consideration are smoking and obesity, which

the population suffering from what’s known in

are highly linked to deficiency, whereas people

the industry as the ‘silent killer’. What’s more,

with dark skin are said to be less able to absorb

Cod Liver Oil

researchers at Dubai Hospital also found that

the nutrients. All things to keep in mind if we

more than 80 per cent of Dubai residents don’t

want to overcome the epidemic. So, if you think

Benefits: Anti-aging properties, heals and nourishes scars and acne

get enough vitamin D, according to the largest

that consuming a wide variety of foods that are

study of its kind ever carried out in the UAE.

high in vitamin D – think egg yolk, fortified milk,

But, with year-round sunshine and beaches

salmon, sardines and cod liver oil – on a daily

aplenty, how is this even possible? And, more

basis is enough to keep you fit and healthy, then

importantly, what does it mean for us as a

you need to think again. It’s time to start actively

population? Vitamins are essentially micro-

doing more to protect your health.

nutrients needed by the body to maintain healthy

Experts suggest that a small amount of early

tissues and for the upkeep of vital processes.

sunshine is crucial for wellbeing, and to help

A lack of vitamin D – which is absorbed by

bones remain healthy. “It takes as little as 20

the body through numerous food sources and

minutes of daily sun exposure for the body to

supplements, as well as synthesis in the skin

utilise UVA rays and convert them into vitamin

by the reaction of sunlight on it – has been

D in the body,” says Dr Hoda. “And, if this still

linked to everything from bone metabolism

isn’t possible, then supplementation is vital.” The

disorders, cancer and cardiovascular disease

optimum time to get out of the house is from

to diabetes. “In the short-term, there can be

dawn to 11 am, before the sunshine gets too

a decrease in calcium absorption in the body,

intense, meaning you can enjoy direct sunlight to

resulting in bone ache and weakness in muscles,

your face, arms, hands and back. Aim for three

fatigue and insomnia,” says Dr Hoda Makkawi,

to four days a week initially, and then try upping

Family Medicine Consultant at Euromed Clinic

this to a daily occurrence. Make sure you don’t

Center based in Dubai. “In the long-term, it may

apply sun cream, either, as this will completely

increase the risk of cancers, dementia, diabetes

block out the vitamin D – just make sure you

and auto-immune diseases such as thyroiditis

get yourself out of the sun before midday so

and multiple sclerosis.”

you don’t burn. Obviously there are drawbacks

What most people aren’t aware of is that you

to the method – we all know the dangers of

can’t get the right amount of vitamin D from

high sun exposure – so it’s important to strike

food alone. In fact, 90 per cent of the sources

a sensible balance. Much less time is needed in

are normally obtained from direct exposure to

the UAE than in cooler climes, so precautions

the sun’s UV rays. And, in this lies the cause of

against sunburn need to be prioritised. When

the problem, as the majority of us spend our

it comes to supplements, the current thinking

time in air-conditioned environments for the

is that around 400 units of vitamin D a day for

9-5, while weekends are typically spent at home

adults should suffice.

or in the mall. “In general, there are two main

In some cases, deficiency can still occur despite

reasons behind the UAE’s prominent deficiency

a healthy diet and sun exposure, as a handful of

of vitamin D,” says Dr Hoda. “For local or Arab

people may have absorption problems in their

women, they tend to have limited exposure, or

intestine. Vitamin D blood tests are therefore

sometimes even a complete lack of exposure to

vital to diagnose the problem, as apart from

sunlight, due to the fact they adhere to modesty

tiredness and some general aches and pains,

in dressing by wearing either a hijab or traditional

there are very few symptoms that are noticeable.

abaya.” In fact, the majority of suffers in the UAE

This is why they call it the silent epidemic. More

are Emirati women, who rarely expose their skin

than 75 per cent of the world’s population is

to the sunlight. “There is also a real awareness

vitamin D deficient and most of them don’t even

about how the sun can be linked to cancer,”

know it. To make sure you’re not part of that

she continues. “Because of this, most women

majority, it takes the right balance of sunshine,

avoid sun exposure or wear sunscreen with high

supplements and the right food groups.

Salmon Benefits: The Selenium in Salmon protects skin from sun exposure, and the Vitamin D provides strength to bones and teeth

Active Vitamin D serum oil, Dr Dennis Gross Benefits: Tightens pores, and helps fade sunspots while providing an even complexion.

Un-wrinkle Peel Pads, Thomas Roth Benefits: Anti-aging properties, heals and nourishes scars and acne

180

B e au ty F o cus

nine

Steps to

Better

Skin By Aishwarya Tyagi

1. Hydralife Jelly Sleeping Mask, Dior | 2. Hydralife Water BB, Dior | 3. Hydralife Beauty Awakening Rehydrating Mask, Dior Making Tracks, Photographed by Julien Vallon, MOJEH Issue 30, using DIOR skincare and beauty

We sit down with Eduard Mauvais Jarvis, the environmental and scientific communication director of Dior Skincare, to learn how to keep our skin on track in the unforgiving Middle Eastern heat. From moisturisers using the hydrating properties of water and gels and masks actively working to preserve and protect the skin to compulsory food groups, here’s nine things to be aware of.

get used to a product and that it is necessary to change regularly. This is false – a moisturiser is not a drug, skin doesn’t get used to it, and if it is conceived to help the skin, assuming its natural functions, it should not be stopped. The third for me is to consider that skincare is only about immediate effect. It’s not true. Consider the face of a 40-year-old woman today and compare it to a 40-year-old woman’s face 20 years ago – you will see that they have 10 years of apparent difference. What is the most common mistake that women make in their skincare and how can they avoid it? The most common one is to mistake dry skin for a lack of moisture. Skin exposed to air conditioning and dry air can be dehydrated and require water essentially, while dry skin constitutively requires water and a lot of lipids. Mistaking one for another leads to using textures

With an increasingly busy lifestyle, how

The key elements in the new Hydra Life range

that are too heavy and suffocating the skin.

important has it become to use hydration

remain the core ingredients of the range,

Hydra Life textures are purely hydrating, without

products?

centred around mallow extract to stimulate

skin suffocation.

A busy life has multiple impacts. Especially in

the production and activity of aquaporins –

the modern world, where air conditioning is

the natural water channels that allow for the

Keeping the products aside, what advice

everywhere – from your home to the car, public

circulation of water in the skin and for the

do you have for a healthy skincare routine?

transportation, work and even restaurants. The

ultimate availability of water in cells.

Drinking a lot of water is key... it makes a

very principle of air conditioning is that it induces

real difference.

the condensation of water contained in air and

What is the best age to start using age

therefore releases dry air. The dryer the air,

preventive skincare?

What’s your top tip for coping with the

the harder it is for skin to retain water, which

When it comes to prevention, I would say that the

Middle Eastern heat, humidity, sun, and

in turn causes chronic dehydration. It is thus

sooner the better. From the end of the teenage

air conditioning?

crucial to regularly use efficient hydrators to

years, skin has to be regularly moisturised

Never go out without a capsule of Hydra Life

pamper your skin.

to avoid the damaging effect of chronic skin

Beauty Awakening Rehydrating Mask in your

dehydration. When skin lacks water, it is

bag! Heat, perspiration, sun, air conditioning

Tell us more about the benefits of a

unable to perform its own regeneration and

all end up in skin dehydration. These nomadic

hydration mask as opposed to a cream-

antioxidant protection. It becomes more

single use capsules are a lifesaver to recover

based moisturiser.

vulnerable to environmental aggressions and

from all these aggressions anywhere, anytime.

When you apply a thick layer of a hydration mask

can age faster.

and leave it on for an extended period, the water

Are there any food or lifestyle choices you

content stays high throughout the application

What

time. The skin is occluded under a layer of water

misconceptions about skincare?

our skin look younger and fresher?

that penetrates into it, soaking more layers and

For me, the first one is to consider that anti-

Eat a lot of fresh fruits and vegetables, because

thus resulting in a higher moisturising efficiency.

aging is a mature woman’s problem. Anti-aging

they are rich in natural antioxidants. Avoid too

is, before all, a prevention business and should

much sugar; this can accelerate the course of

What are the key ingredients in the new Hydra

be started as soon as possible with a good

aging. Don’t eat too much salt and drink a lot

Life range and what are their benefits?

moisturiser. The second is that skin tends to

of water to avoid dehydration.

are

the

three

most

common

think we should be making in order to help

182

B e au ty & B o dy Se cre t s

Setting

the Pace

Finding an equal work-life balance can at times be a daunting task, but Ivana Bruic has made health a priority in her life. The CEO of Austyle shares with us her fitness secrets and what motivates her to stay in shape.

By Sophie Pasztor

Photographed by Rhys Simpson-Hopkins

When did you first become a runner? I was a competitive runner at school and represented my state at the 400, 800, 1,500 and 3,000m tracks. During the 2000 Sydney Olympics, I was honoured to be nominated in my region to accompany the Olympic torch, which was such an overwhelming moment for a 17-year-old at the time. Do your workouts favour cardio or strength training? Definitely both. I think women sometimes shy from strength training believing they will bulk up, but unless you’re lifting very heavy and taking a lot of supplements, this is definitely not the case. Strength training goes wonderfully in hand with cardio, and if you are looking at burning fat, it’s a surefire way to speed up the process. How important is maintaining a clean diet?

Ivana wears sports top, jacket and tights, LORNA JANE | Trainers, ADIDAS.

I’m conscious of what I consume, but I also don’t hold back if I’m craving something. It’s literally all about balance. If you start saying no to yourself too frequently, you will eventually fall back to old habits.

What motivates you to stay in shape?

Training) with a muscle conditioning

Exercise is my ‘time out’ – it allows me to

class, like Barre. HIIT training allows you

What is your favourite ‘cheat’ meal?

take my mind off business and personal

to exercise for a shorter amount of time,

I’d have to say the ‘Salt’ burger

matters. It has more than just aesthetic or

intensively, while muscle conditioning

accompanied by their pink lemonade –

health orientations for me. I’ve implemented

classes help you tone, stretch and elongate

and, the cheat meal wouldn’t be complete

working out into my life as a ‘lifestyle choice’.

muscles – for me, the two work hand in

without their ice-cream softie!

Fitness activities energise me for the day

hand beautifully.

and help me achieve deeper sleep at night.

What’s your favourite outfit to work out Can you take us through your daily

in and why?

How do you fit in your workout with

workout regimen?

I love Lorna Jane, our top Australian active

your career?

The first thing I do when I get up in the

wear label that now has a store at Town

It’s about making wiser choices, whether

morning at 7am is grab a banana and a black

Centre, Jumeirah.

than means ditching your late night Netflix

coffee. I get hungry very quickly, so I need

for an earlier sleep or skipping a Thursday

to have a small amount of energy before I

Do you have any fitness secrets?

night out to get up earlier on the weekend

hit any activity. I scroll through my Guava

Aim to stay active, even if it means only

– you can do it if you focus and make it

Pass app or liaise with my fitness buddy,

taking a walk around your neighbourhood,

your priority.

who lives along Kite Beach, for a catch up

walking your dog, or even a friend’s dog!

training session, where we practice the ‘Kayla

There are many activities you can engage in

What is your favourite form of exercise?

Itsines’ routine or attend one of the Guava

that involve small lifestyle changes, which can

I love to mix HIIT (High Intensity Interval

Pass classes together.

make a huge difference to your overall health.

184

b e au ty n ote

Brush Away

Top to bottom: CLARINS, Body Shaping Cream | THE ORGANIC PHARMACY at Harvey Nichols Dubai, Skin brush | LAURA MERCIER, AmbreVanille Body Butter | MOLTON BROWN, Heavenly Gingerlily Caressing Body Polish

Styled by Olivia Cantillon and photographed by Sarvenaz Hashtroudi.

Give your summer body a head start by renewing and rejuvenating your skin. Begin your prep by exfoliating with Molton Brown’s Tahitian sand body polish and follow with a deep moisturise from Laura Mercier’s vanilla-infused body butter.

Hervé Léger s/s16

Power Plaits This season, we’ve fallen back in love with the versatility of a braid. This tried and tested look has catapulted hairstyles into looking more grown-up and powerful than ever. We witnessed an all over the hair technique of braiding at the Desigual show, and a tightly plaited “crown” on the front at Hervé Léger. The only trick to nail the runway-ready style for spring is to keep your hair slightly lessthan-perfect, with undone loose strands falling carefree and casually. Jessica Hart is a vision in a goddess plait crown

Does your closet Spark Joy? The Japanese high priestess of tidying up, Marie Kondo, has our spring cleaning goals set since the release of her recent de-cluttering bible, Spark Joy: An Illustrated Master Class on the Art of Organizing and Tidying Up. This is an illustrated guide helps readers implement the philosophy of her ‘KonMarie’ method, with tricks and tips to re-align your life; the process, in return, leads to a spiritual manoeuvre that guarantees to help reduce stress and fight depression. Here’s what we’re taking away from the book:

1. 2.

3. 4.

Do it all at once. Marie suggests taking time out to tackle the tidying in one go, rather than little increments, and do it sooner rather than later. Consider the joy factor. Don’t throw things away for the sake of it. Kondo advises you to consider each item, hold it in your hands and if it “brings you joy”, keep it. If it doesn’t, throw it away and forget the “maybe” pile. Go easy. Start with things that have less emotional attachment, Kondo says. Kitchen utensils are more useful than old photographs, which are bound to slow you down. Fold everything. With the exception of heavy coats and expensive suits. Grab one of the copies for Kondo’s exceptional folding techniques that save twice the amount of storage space.

186

H e alth a nd B e au t y ne ws

The Soup Cleanse Takeover The golden era of the juice cleanse finally came to an end, and in its place is the ‘Soup Cleanse’, holding more nutritional value than any juice-based diet. A nourishing detox soup primarily relies on vegetables rather than fruits; hence, it’s low on the glycaemic scale and packed with fibre, which makes it pretty filling. Typically lasting from three to five days, not only will you end up feeling lighter and slimmer, but your body will also thank you in the form of glowing skin, renewed energy and sound sleep.

Detox Delight’s soup delight box comes with a week’s worth of mixed vegan vegetable soups and purees. Tel: 04 338 3565

Beauty Apps For a Beautiful You From virtually trying on makeup to booking salon appointments at your fingertips, these are the best beauty apps to download now. 1.

Visada Skipping the need to waste hours in a beauty store, the app analyses your fine lines and dark spots based on a selfie. From there, you’ll get specific skin care recommendations and also makeup recommendations based on your skin and eye colour. Think Dirty If you are looking to avoid chemicals like phthalates, parabens and synthetic fragrances, this app scans the barcode of your beauty products and helps the user make informed decisions about which cosmetic products to buy, by putting that information at our fingertips. Beem The new must-have virtual personal secretary is fast and discreet and allows you to find and book your emergency beauty appointments anytime, anywhere across Dubai. iDrated The game-changing app monitors how hydrated your body is at any given moment, keeps track of the last time you had a drink of water, and tells you when you are due to drink again. The charming app is an excellent way to kick-start a health regimen or detox programme.

4 1 5

Pretty in

Pink

Mark the change of seasons by switching to new spring fragrances that instantly transport you to the aroma of blooming fields, fresh air, sunshine and roses blossoming on a dreamy summer afternoon.

1. Rose Pompon, ANNICK GOUTAL | 2. Ever Bloom, SHISEIDO | 3. Brit Rhythm, BURBERRY | 4. Rose Couture, ELIE SAAB | 5. OlympÃ©a, PACO RABANNE

Complexion throughout: Le Blanc de Chanel, Les Beiges Healthy Glow Foundation N°20, Correcteur Perfection 30 Beige Pétale, Éclat Lumière 20 Beige Clair, Soleil Tan de Chanel, CHANEL

The

Nature of Things As the seasons transform, turn to subtle shades of sunshine for glossy skin, blushed cheeks and lightly twisted hair - all with spring’s sun kissed glow.

Photographed by Julien Vallon  Styled by Pauline Roze

Left: Eyes, Les 4 Ombres 266 Tissé Essentiel, Stylo Eyeshadow 187 Brun Châtain, Stylo Eyeshadow 157 Beige Doré, Dimensions de Chanel 20 Brun, Le Palette Sourcils de Chanel 40 Naturel | Lips, Rouge Coco Stylo 218 Script, CHANEL | Right: Eyes, Stylo Eyeshadow 187 Brun Châtain, Stylo Eyeshadow 157 Beige Doré, Stylo Eyeshadow 167 Bronze Platine | Lips, Rouge Coco Stylo 204 Article & Rouge Coco Stylo 206 Histoire, CHANEL

190

Left: Eyes, Les 4 Ombres 266 Tissé Essentiel, Stylo Eyeshadow 157 Beige Doré, Stylo Eyeshadow 167 Bronze Platine, Dimensions de Chanel 20 Bru, Rouge Coco Stylo 218 Script | Lips, Rouge Coco Stylo 216 Lettre, CHANEL | Right: Eyes, Stylo Eyeshadow 157 Beige Doré, Stylo Eyeshadow 167 Bronze Platine, Dimensions de Chanel 20 Brun | Lips, Rouge Coco Stylo 202 Conte | Nails, Le Vernis 512 Mythique, CHANEL

Left: Eyes, Les 4 Ombres 266 Tissé Essentiel, Stylo Eyeshadow 187 Brun Châtain, Stylo Eyeshadow 167 Bronze Platine, Dimensions de Chanel 20 Brun | Lips, Rouge Coco Stylo 218 Script, CHANEL | Right: Eyes, Stylo Eyeshadow 187 Brun Châtain, Stylo Eyeshadow 167 Bronze Platine, Stylo Eyeshadow 157 Beige Doré, Dimensions de Chanel 20 Brun | Lips, Rouge Coco Stylo 208 Roman & Rouge Coco Stylo 206 Histoire | Nails, Le Vernis 167 Ballerina, CHANEL

Eyes, Les 4 Ombres 266 Tissé Essentiel, Stylo Eyeshadow 187 Brun Châtain, Stylo Eyeshadow 167 Bronze Platine, Dimensions de Chanel 20 Brun | Lips, Rouge Coco Stylo 218 Script, CHANEL

Left: Eyes, Les 4 Ombres 266 Tissé Essentiel, Stylo Eyeshadow 167 Bronze Platine, Stylo Eyeshadow 157 Beige Doré, Dimensions de Chanel 20 Brun | Lips, Rouge Coco Stylo 202 Conte, CHANEL | Right: Eyes, Stylo Eyeshadow 167 Bronze Platine, Stylo Eyeshadow 157 Beige Doré, Stylo Eyeshadow 197 Vert Grisé | Lips, Rouge Coco Stylo 208 Roman & Rouge Coco Stylo 206 Histoire, CHANEL

194

Left: Eyes, Stylo Eyeshadow 167 Bronze Platine, Stylo Eyeshadow 157 Beige Doré, Dimensions de Chanel 20 Brun | Lips, Rouge Coco Stylo 212 Récit, CHANEL | Right: Eyes, Les 4 Ombres 266 Tissé Essentiel, Stylo Eyeshadow 187 Brun Châtain, Stylo Eyeshadow 167 Bronze Platine, Dimensions de Chanel 20 Brun | Lips, Rouge Coco Stylo 218 Script, CHANEL

Left: Eyes, Les 4 Ombres 266 Tissé Essentiel, Stylo Eyeshadow 187 Brun Châtain, Stylo Eyeshadow 167 Bronze Platine, Dimensions de Chanel 20 Brun | Lips, Rouge Coco Stylo 208 Roman, CHANEL | Right: Eyes, Les 4 Ombres 266 Tissé Essentiel, Stylo Eyeshadow 187 Brun Châtain, Stylo Eyeshadow 167 Bronze Platine, Dimensions de Chanel 20 Brun | Lips, Rouge Coco Stylo 202 Conte, CHANEL

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Models: Maja Mayskar at IMG Models Paris Dominika B at Marilyn Agency Paris Makeup artist: Jolanta Cedro at B Agency Hair stylist: Stéphane Delahaye at B Agency Photographer’s assistant: Louis Yago  Clothing: All Chanel Ready-to-Wear Spring/ Summer 2016 Collection Special thanks: Studio Rambuteau-Championnet Local production: SWAP Production: Louis Agency

Left: Eyes, Les 4 Ombres 266 Tissé Essentiel, Stylo Eyeshadow 187 Brun Châtain, Stylo Eyeshadow 167 Bronze Platine, Dimensions de Chanel 20 Brun | Lips, Rouge Coco Stylo 206 Histoire & Rouge Coco Stylo 208 Roman | Nails, Le Vernis 522 Monochrome, CHANEL | Right: Eyes, Les 4 Ombres 266 Tissé Essentiel, Stylo Eyeshadow 187 Brun Châtain, Stylo Eyeshadow 167 Bronze Platine, Stylo Eyeshadow 157 Beige Doré, Dimensions de Chanel 20 Brun | Lips, Rouge Coco Stylo 218 Script | Nails, Le Vernis 520 Garçonne, CHANEL

198

Wo ma n o f S ty le

In the

Mix

When did you realise that you wanted to be a DJ? I started DJing in college as a hobby. When I came back to NY during the summer, I started to do sets at nightclubs, and was having such a great time with it that I thought I could take it more seriously and make it a real career. Then, I started getting approached by fashion brands and was able to use those relationships to grow my presence. From there it has turned into my main career.

By Natalie Trevis

DJ and founder of fitness and beauty website HBFIT, Hannah Bronfman is a fashion industry favourite, who has played for everyone from Balmain to Public School. We talk music, beauty and inspiration with the stylish Manhattanite.

What does music mean to you? I grew up in a musical family [Bronfmanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s mother is actress Sherry Brewer and her father is former chairman and CEO of Warner Music Group, Edgar Bronfman Jr.] and have always been moved by music and how it affects everyone differently. Music means everything to me. I love that music can make me feel better and always change my mood. I love to discover new music and find new artists to follow.

Who is your musical inspiration? I find musical inspiration everywhere. From what my 15-yearold sister is listening to, to what the guy in the subway is playing. I love Disco and African music as well as Motown. I played the drums in college and started DJing around the same time. How would you describe your personal style? Elevated casual chic. I like to be a bit edgy, but also classic. How does your work influence your style? I’m constantly working on my style and finding ways in which I feel comfortable and confident while being on the go. I’ve DJ’d everything from yoga events to the Balmain Paris Fashion Week after party, so I always need to be fully prepared for anything. It’s a good thing, as I love to dress up as much as wearing a workout outfit. Who inspires your style? I really love Lauren Bacall’s style. Bianca Jagger and Kate Moss are others that I admire for their style. Strong women who are effortlessly chic influence me the most. What has been your most memorable collaboration? I opened for Alicia Keys and Young Guru at Swizz Beatz’s No Commission Art Fair during Art Basel 2015. What are your beauty recovery tips after a late night? It’s important to take all your makeup off before bed! I usually like to do a brightening mask after a long night out. I also love Air Repair’s hydrating face mist. How has discovering fitness made an impact on your life? It’s pushed me to find the balance between a hectic work schedule and taking time to do something I enjoy. Where is your favourite place to be in the world? I absolutely love Byron Bay in Australia. My aunt has a sustainable farm in a small town near Byron and my fiancé and I have been there twice and absolutely love it. What was the inspiration behind creating NY salon booking app Beautified? Beautified was built out of the idea of on-demand beauty appointments during a time in which on-demand services were becoming very hot. Beautified opened many doors for me in the beauty industry and ultimately was what lead me to start HBFIT. HBFIT was founded as a unique online

Images courtesy of Hannah Bronfman.

destination to explore all things health, beauty and fitness related, and I’m so proud of what it has become. What does the rest of 2016 hold? I’m excited to launch my digital show, HANNAHGRAM with POPSUGAR, which will explore various trends within pop culture, fashion, beauty and beyond. I’m also so happy to be part of the Adidas family and excited to promote a positive message to women around the world.

Kevin Maher / The Times / The Interview People, Images courtesy of Getty images Tristan Fewings, Samir Hussein and John Phillips.

200 M OJEH W o man

This Is

Sienna

Sienna Miller is about to grace our screens once again, and so, we meet up with the British actress and style enthusiast to talk coming of age and what’s important to her.

the past, were now more willing to back me.” Miller is wearing a grey, woollen, neck-to-floor dress. Her blond hair is lightly tousled and her brain, she says, is frazzled from all-night flu-watch over her three-year-old daughter, Marlowe (Miller split last summer from Marlowe’s father, the actor Tom Sturridge). She claims to be groggy and incoherent, but mostly the impression she creates is a sympathetic cocktail of self-deprecation, world-weary cynicism (Donald Trump, she says, is “a Ballardian horror show, and sums up the state of where we are

Sienna Miller wants you to know three things. 1)

protean seductress, who roams the floors of

now”), and occasional spiky defensiveness

This interview will not be a therapy session for a

a nightmarish tower block, pinging with ease

— “Here we go with the analysis again!” she

34-year-old actress, mother of one and former

from the rough ‘n’ tumble of the blue-collar

groans, when we mention her early years. “Back

media punchbag. 2) As she demonstrated in

lower levels to the highfalutin whimsies of the

to my childhood? What are we doing?”

American Sniper and Foxcatcher, she makes

upper-crust penthouse.

For now, though, we stick with movies, and

proper films now. 3) In a 13-year movie career

In a film populated with mainly unhinged women

with the commonly held belief that Miller has

that began with Layer Cake and Alfie, and was

(Elisabeth Moss, Keeley Hawes and Stacy

been essentially, and professionally, reborn.

repeatedly overshadowed by torrid off-screen

Martin are all on the verge), Miller coolly inhabits

The theory states that she did some modelling,

events (break-up with Alfie co-star Jude Law,

what is easily the most sympathetic female role

she made some movies and she had some

accusations of marriage-wrecking, starring role

(Charlotte is, fundamentally, a survivor), perhaps

boyfriends — Law, Rhys Ifans and Balthazar

in the Leveson inquiry) and undercut by some

even the most sympathetic part, in the movie

Getty. She was pursued relentlessly by the

hit-and-miss films (GI Joe: The Rise of Cobra)

(Tom Hiddleston’s middle-class hero, Dr Laing,

paparazzi (so thoroughly that, in 2008, she

before she triumphed at the 11th hour with

is deliberately blank).

launched successful court action against one

serious roles for award-winning directors, she

The meaty role, says Miller, and indeed her

photography agency), her phone was hacked,

never once, in any way, changed. We did.

easy casting in High-Rise (she did not have to

she appeared at the Leveson inquiry into press

The second proposition is the easiest to

audition), is another sign of the domino effect

standards, and then, hey presto, with all that bad

prove. First and third, not so much. We are in

defining her heavyweight career phase. “Once

stuff behind her, she finally started making ace

London to discuss her role in the madcap social

important and respected film-makers (such

movies. Right? Wrong, apparently. “Everyone

satire, High-Rise, directed by Ben Wheatley

as American Sniper’s Clint Eastwood) started

talks about that, as if they’re surprised that

(Sightseers). The movie, an adaptation of

putting faith in me, things began to change,”

they can finally see me as an actor,” she says.

the 1975 JG Ballard novel, casts Miller as

she says. “It meant that other, less artistic types,

“But, I think what they’re actually talking about

the sultry single mum Charlotte Melville, a

who may have paid attention to reputation in

is a shift in their own perceptions rather than

202

I want to keep dancing, keep making and keep creating. Sienna Miller

the fact that I’m suddenly doing good work.”

it wasn’t being created any more. But, it does

“But, I was really freaked out by that attention,

And yet, at the Leveson inquiry, Miller spoke

feel like another lifetime now. I do feel like it

and the more aggressive that became, the

authoritatively about the four years of hell

was damaging.”

more aggressive I became in my response.

she endured, from the commencement of

How damaging? She mentions the Amy

Like, ‘I’m not going to let them get me!’ In my

her relationship with Law in 2004 until her

Winehouse documentary, Amy. “I shook when

mind it was resilience, but it was really just

legal action against the paparazzi. Was this a

I was watching that film,” she says. “Because

perpetuating this cycle.”

transformative moment, one in which she went

I remembered what it was like. I was exposed

The resilience, she notes, is a childhood thing.

from frothy tabloid fodder to serious person?

to that level of pursuit. It was that aggressive.”

She is the younger of two daughters (her sister

“I think some things about that experience

She says that everything changed for her

is the fashion designer Savannah Miller) born to

were maturing,” she says, cautiously. “As I was

overnight when she emerged from the Alfie

a former model mother and banker father (“very

turning 30 and getting pregnant, and having

shoot on the arm of Law. “From 0 to 60 in zero

liberal, follow-your-heart types”). Her parents

a baby. All of these things aligned in a way.

seconds,” she says. “No one copes with that

divorced when she was six years old, and she

And to be honest, in my mind, I had sued the

unless you’re surrounded by a huge PR team.”

was sent to boarding school in Berkshire at

paparazzi a long time ago. So, my whole world

She says that the mistake she made at the time

the age of eight.

shifted once I wasn’t being followed around

was to be open, unguarded and to refuse to

“I was far too young,” she says (she adds that

every day. And, maybe it took a long time for

change her life in any way. “I was 21 and being

she would not dream of sending her daughter

that perception of me to die down, because

irresponsible, as I should’ve been,” she says.

to boarding school). “But, something about

going to boarding school at that age and finding

Miller is based in north London, where she lives

the wife of explorer Percival Fawcett in The

it really difficult made me quite rambunctious

with Marlowe, and will happily admit to a social life

Lost City of Z, for the director James Gray (The

and a bit punchy and very resilient, and also

that’s not exactly, well, scorching. “I don’t really

Yards). There’s an off-Broadway play, too, and

very soft, and, er... analysis! Analysis!”

do much else these days,” she says, with a shrug.

a possible chance to direct.

By the age of 12, she was already, she says,

“Except for working and looking after a child.”

So, is it safe to say that she has slayed some

“outgoing and rebellious”, and regularly

On the working front, she’s up next in the

beasts, put a reputation behind her, and is

socialising with Savannah (then 15). “There

Ben Affleck-directed gangster drama, Live by

finally satisfied? “No!” she says, aghast. “I

were 15-year-old boys around, having fun, so

Night, adapted from the Dennis Lehane novel.

want to keep dancing, keep making and keep

you try to tag along, unwelcomed a lot of the

“I play an Irish immigrant daughter of a pimp

creating.” She chuckles at the sound of herself,

time, but making some effort.”

in prohibition-era Boston — I think it might be

and then she announces, almost a warning, “I

She bounced from boarding school into a

my favourite role,” she says. Then, she’ll play

am just beginning. This is just the beginning!”

modelling contract that paid for a move to New York at the age of 18, and some on-again-offagain study at the city’s Lee Strasberg Theatre and Film Institute. “I did three months, then I went travelling, then I did another three months, then a play off-off-Broadway,” she says. “I just couldn’t sit still. I was desperate to start working and start my life.” Eventually, she landed the fluff role of a gangster’s moll in Layer Cake, and began shooting Alfie the day when Layer Cake finished. Of her time with Law she says, “Let’s just dodge that one. I’ve said everything I want to say about that, a million times.” Then, in the context of her seeming transition from party girl to respected actress, she says, “I was 21, and newly famous, and in love with someone very famous. And now, I’m 34 and I have a baby, and I’m a bit more grown up. It’s not rocket science. Everyone’s like, ‘What happened?’ I just grew up.” She once complained, “I think all that people care about is my private life. But they don’t want to read about my opinions on politics!” And so, what are her thoughts on her home country’s current political climate? “Er, I don’t want to particularly comment, but I’d say we probably should align with Europe.” UK politics in general? “I feel very despondent about it.” She has, though, nonetheless, been to No. 10. “It was some British fashion thing, by newly appointed Cameron, and it felt like a fun thing, just to see inside. Although it’s not like we really got to see inside. We were just in some big room.” And, finally, how to fix the immigration crisis? “Oh, stop it! I don’t want to get into that. I’m an actor. Although I will say that it is horrendous when people feel the need to risk their children’s lives because they are desperate to flee from a situation that we caused, and are reticent to fix. It’s a monumental, overwhelming disaster that we are completely responsible for.”

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T r av el

Chic Escapes From Oxfordshire’s intelligentsia hideouts to Havana’s bustling art-deco hotels, we’re looking at three distinct destinations that have inspired the fashion world in more ways than one.

By Aishwarya Tyagi

Oxford

The old-school glory of this academic seat and its

The Radcliffe Camera at Oxford University was built in the NeoClassical style in the 1700’s to house the Radcliffe Science Library.

marvellous antiquity has always been the forte of Oxfordshire. Not only did Alessandro Michele make the scholarly look the mostsought after collection for Gucci, but Dior’s upcoming cruise 2017 collection will take place in the iconic Blenheim Palace, bringing the county into the spotlight.

Where to eat Situated in the picturesque Oxfordshire village of Great Milton, The Belmond Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons is renowned for offering one of Britain’s finest gastronomic experiences. Gucci spring/summer 2016

Belmond Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons

What to do When in Oxford, punting is a must. It’s a way to explore the city by water, and a favourite of both city dwellers and tourists. There’s also a plethora of vintage stores, where you’ll find original Chanel and YSL pieces.

What to pack 1. Sandro | 2. Paris Raye | 3. Prada

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Palm Springs

Once known as “Hollywood’s Playground”, Palm Springs has long been a haven for A-list

The iconic palm trees of the desert mountainous region glisten at sunset.

elite, who enjoy relaxing in style who trade in the bustle of Los Angeles for the palm trees and idyllic mountain backdrop of this oasis, that most recently played host to Hedi Slimane’s ‘Palladium’ collection.

Where to stay Recharge at the newly revamped L’Horizon Palm Springs, which boasts classic mid-century modern architecture along with a rich Hollywood history. The iconic hotel has been a favourite celebrity destination since the Fifties, attracting high profile guests including Temperley London spring/summer 2016

Marilyn Monroe and Betty Grable and several U.S. Presidents.

The newly refurbished L’Horizon Hotel

What to do Take the aerial tramway up to Mount San Jacinto State Park, where

What to pack 1. Saint Laurent | 2. Chloé| 3. Guiseppe Zanotti

you are 8,500 feet up the mountain. The spectacular view from the cable car ranges from the sandy desert of Palm Springs to alpine snow-fields, where the temperature drops from 32°C to 2°C.

Havana

Strolling through the streets of La Habana Vieja, amongst

Hotel Nacional de Cuba has pictures and autographs of all its famous visitors and stands like a museum in Old Havana

the candy coloured buildings and weatherworn facades still standing elegant, one can see how the city of Havana a melting pot of talent and culture, is a jarring collision between antique and nouveau.

Where to stay When in Havana, do not miss the historically significant Hotel Ambos Mundos, which was writer Ernest Hemingway’s first residence in Cuba. Room 511, in particular, has been preserved exactly the way he left it; it is where he began to write his novel For Whom the Bell Tolls in the Forties.

Alberta Ferretti spring/summer 2016

3 2

Restaurant El Floridita Ernest Hemingway’s favourite spot tourist landmark in Old Havana.

Where to EAT The Cuban gastronomic treasure La Bodeguita del Medio is a hotspot for travellers, writers and philosophers, who visit to get the real Havana experience. Past visitors have included Salvador Allende, Fidel Castro, Nicolás Guillén and Nat King Cole, all of whom have left their autographs on La Bodeguita’s wall – along with thousands of others.

What to pack 1. Christian Siriano | 2. M Missoni | 3. Isabel Marant

208

S t yl e I ns ider

At Home with

Deema Al Asadi With an acute eye for style and penchant for colour, Iraqi born beauty Deema Al Asadi is making her mark on the fashion scene. MOJEH sits down with the style star to talk clothing, beauty and interiors.

By Sophie Pasztor

Photographed by Rhys SimpsonHopkins inside Deemaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s home. Pieces all from her personal collection.

Deema wears OTT Dubai dress, Zara shoes, Bulgari watch and Cartier ring

Deema wears Zara skirt and jacket, Creo T-shirt and River Island shoes

How would you define your personal style? I would define it as classy and feminine, but sometimes I go crazy, depending on my mood. How do you manage a healthy work life balance? Staying focused and having good time management is essential. What items would you say you couldn’t live without and why? Of course, my phone! I wouldn’t be able to live without my phone. What was the last book you have read? What women do you like to follow on

I start reading the Revenge Wears Prada,

Instagram?

but I haven’t finished it just yet.

I follow so many. Of course, the Kattan Sisters are on the top of the list, but I like

What are you planning to do for the

therealfouz as well. I am also a big fan of

summer?

the Fashion Byble by Carli Byble.

I am planning to travel with my husband.

What is on your wish list?

What activities would you typically do

A coloured classic Chanel, I think it’s perfect

in your down time?

for summer! Maybe pink or blue.

I am not usually an activities person, but I like tanning and using the pool in

What inspired the décor for your home?

my house.

I just wanted something practical and comfortable. That’s why I decided to go

What has been your biggest achievement

for light colours.

so far? Marrying my best friend, my husband.

Where’s your favourite lunch spot? I love having lunch at Dubai Mall in the

Talk us through your goals for the year

outdoor area mainly for its amazing fountain

ahead?

display and view of the Burj Khalifa. It also

My goal this year is definitely to launch my

makes the perfect excuse to go shopping

website. I have been working on it for three

after lunch.

months now and I’m so excited to launch it.

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Cultu r e C lub

It’s fair to say it was a childhood favourite for many, and it’s still a much-loved classic today. The Jungle Book, written by Rudyard Kipling, has been adapted and directed by Jon Favreau for the second time for the big screen. There’s so much anticipation for its release this month that even Kenzo collaborated with Disney last month for Kenzo X Disney.

As Gucci’s creative director Alessandro Michele continues to win fashion hearts, we can’t get enough of his work, too. Taken from their Tian Capsule collection, this fun-loving printed headband is the ideal adornment to take you from spring into summer. The birds, the flowers – it’s all a celebration of our wonderful wildlife.

Cultural

Notes for April

British brothers and chefs Jeff and Chris Galvin are bringing their culinary talents to Dubai. Having opened their first restaurant over 10 years ago, they plan to emulate their London success overseas. Due to open both a pub and a restaurant this month in City Walk, we’re placing our bets on a long waiting list for a table.

From the exhibition everyone’s waiting for to the most covetable bag of the season and the restaurant we’re lining up to eat at, take note

It may have debuted last month, but the collaboration between Lebanese designer Nadine Kanso and Robert Wan is still a hot topic. The Ya Noor El Ain ring, featuring a black pearl and encircled by rose gold, blue sapphires, diamonds and Arabic letters, evokes the beauty of the region’s history.

Born a rebel, always a rebel? The latest volume from Assouline.com, Radical Renaissance 60, celebrates the fashion industry’s risk-takers – from Martin Margiela and John Galliano to Nicola Formichetti – because there’s a lesson to be learned in going against the grain. With a forward written by Renzo Rosso, the book illustrates passion, freedom and dreaming big.

She’s no stranger to our shores, having played to many an excitable crowd here in the UAE. With the imminent release of her first album in four years, Emily’s D + Evolution, American jazz musician Esperanza Spalding looks set to inspire her fans with a new sound and a new direction.

Words by Susan Devaney, Image courtesy of Getty

and let MOJEH guide your month ahead.

Underwear: We all own some. Curated by Edwina Ehrman of the Victorian & Albert Museum textiles department, Undressed: A Brief History of Underwear will open its doors to the public this month. Exhibiting an array of archival pieces – from David Beckham’s boxers and a Paul Poiret silk slip to whalebone corsets – it’s a visual history lesson.

Continuing to throw the spotlight on emerging regional designers, Design 971 is hosting its second edition this month. Located in Dubai Mall, the popup store will showcase the work of Arwa Al Banawi, Dima Ayad, DRESSADDICT and IAMMAI for the next two months. Swing by and be inspired.

Candy, it’s the perfect addition to your spring wardrobe. Made from ribbed acrylic panelling, its lightweight structure is an added bonus. Featuring a playful palm leaf print and an adaptable chain strap, this clutch by Jimmy Choo will take you from day to night with ease – not to mention giving off a whole lot of good holiday vibes.

As it continues to gain international interest year after year, FFWD autumn/winter 2016 will showcase once more. From 31st March to 3rd April, regional emerging designers – from Lama Jouni and Jelena Bin Drai to Hussein Bazaza – will exhibit their latest work for season 7 in the newly established Dubai Design District.

It’s been a long time coming, but the esteemed Four Seasons hotel has arrived on the sandy shores of Abu Dhabi. With its stunning, modern architecture, a view of the Gulf skyline and six restaurants to fine dine in, it’s the perfect place to spoil yourself by indulging in a weekend away from the norm.

If you only read one book this month, make it Frida Kahlo: Fashion as the Art of Being. Published by Assouline, the book delves into her life (one full of pleasures and pain), her paintings and love for all things fashion. It’s a celebration of an original icon, who is still as relevant today as ever.

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f i n al n ote

Spring Clean

Clockwise from top centre: FENDI | DOLCE & GABBANA at Harvey Nichols Dubai | CHRISTIAN DIOR | JIL SANDER at Level Shoe District

Styled by Olivia Cantillon and photographed by Sarvenaz Hashtroudi.

Nothing feels more immaculate than fresh white goods. Let your accessories speak through structured lines and crisp colour ways, with attention in the detail. Look to Jil Sander’s platform brogue for minimalist glory and Fendi’s micro baguette for optic fun.

Photographed by MAX PAPENDIECK

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