N° 41
OCT
COCO CRUSH RINGS IN DIAMONDS, WHITE AND YELLOW GOLD
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20 Chairman SHAHAB IZADPANAH
EDITORIAL
PUBLISHING
Editor in Chief MOJEH IZADPANAH
Publishing Director RADHIKA NATU
Associate Editor SHERI IZADPANAH
Publishing Assistant DESIREE LABANDA-GAVERIA
Managing Editor KELLY BALDWIN
Junior Publishing Assistant kisada hurin
Fashion Writer Laura Beaney
Paris Representative GHISLAIN DE CASTELBAJAC
Editorial Assistant Sophie pasztor
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Guest Fashion Stylists Camille Josephine Teisseire Gemma Bedini Anna Klein Tatiana Dumabin Alba Melendo
Subscription Tel: +971 4 553 90 49 Email: subs@mojeh.com Online Division ALI ROMAN Afreen Khwaja
MOJEH Men Group Peter Iantorno Dmitri Ruwan
LOUIS FOURTEEN FOR MOJEH
ART
Concierge Service Management daisy marchant
Producer LOUIS AGENCY
Corporate Manager JUBRAN HAMATI
Art Director AMIRREZA AMIRASLANI
Published under HS Media Group FZ LLC Registered at Dubai Design District Building No. 8, Offices 212-213 P.O.Box 502333, Dubai, UAE.
Deputy Art Director Richard Lee Graphic Designer Balaji Mahendran Contributing Photographers Liv Friis-Larsen Anthony Arquier Pelle Lannefors Leny Guetta Rocio Ramos
Cover photographed by Anthony Arquier, model wears high jewellery necklace by Cartier.
WWW.MOJEH.COM Louis Fourteen for MOJEH Follow us on Twitter @MOJEH_Magazine MOJEH Swiss Representative Office: Rue de Rive 4, 1204 Geneva, Switzerland Average qualified circulation (January-June 2015): 13,306 copies. For the UAE printed by Emirates Printing Press LLC. Distribution- UAE: Al Nisr Distribution LLC. Qatar: Dar Al Sharq. Bahrain: Jashanmal & Sons BSC (C). Oman: United Media Services LLC. Lebanon: Messageries Du Moyen-Orient The publishers regret that they cannot accept liability for error or omissions contained in this publication, however caused. The opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessary those of the publishers. Readers are advised to seek specialist advice before acting on information contained in this publication which is provided for general use and may not be appropriate for the readers particular circumstances. The ownership of trademark is acknowledged, therefore reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. All credits are subjects to change. Copyright HS MEDIA GROUP FZ LLC 2011
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M o j eh C o ntent s
October Style 70. Eclectic Excess If less is more, imagine how much more ‘more’ could be? MOJEH decodes the new wave of maximal dressing led by Gucci.
77. New Season Necklines From the full to the fallen, Dior reshapes the nature of our necklines.
91. Working Class Showing us the silhouette of success, businesswoman and entrepreneur Elissa Freiha unveils the poignant power of her dress code.
94. Fall’s New Focus As velvets, corsetry and contemporary cowgirls command attention on the catwalks, we offer real-world wardrobe staples for the season’s dominant trends.
120. The Cult of Cute From Kawaii to cartoons and collectable toys, as our childhood mascots continue to shape our style directions, MOJEH examines fashion’s obsession with cuteness.
© 2016 CHLOE. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
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Avenue at Etihad Towers - Abu Dhabi
chloe.com
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MOJEH Women 82. Endless Summer We speak to the sister duo behind the whimsical directions of Australian brand, Zimmermann, making waves across the global fashion scene.
104. Fashion’s Quiet Force MOJEH steps inside the cultured existence of Delphine Arnault, the woman behind LVMH’s platform of promise for aspiring fashion talent.
Talking Points
44. Is It Too Late To Say Sorry Are we being penalised for our apologies? MOJEH examines the subtext of sorry.
112. Billion Dollar Babies As young girls we dreamt of Cinderella, but as kids’ couture becomes a reality, MOJEH asks, are we spending too much on our children’s wardrobes?
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Photoshoots 54. The Dress-Maker Dresses dominate our sartorial existence for October – we run through the key styles to covet and how to tailor accordingly.
126. Autumn’s Opulence Polished pearls and deep-hued jewels adorn a rich, seasonal backdrop of seductive sheers, tight-knit lace and fanciful ostrich feathers.
134. Golden Hour Chanel’s a/w16 collection recalls Coco’s penchant for pearls, while embellished technical tweeds collide with quilted jackets to elevate our streetwear notions.
146. Black Widow Erring on the side of the clandestine, this season’s eveningwear satiates our dark desires through layered sheers and Victoriana veils.
160. Melancholy A story of the Seventies, sartorial glory spun through the cinematic lens of Anderson and Lynch.
Andreea Diaconu by Terry Richardson – messika.com
My Twin Collection
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Jewellery and Watches 174. STONE COLD Our everyday wear becomes a fine jewellery affair as the season’s standout pieces marry the delicate and the bold.
184. Horology Gone Wild More animal instinct than a trend in time, MOJEH uncovers the eternal draw of the animal motif.
188. Five Minutes With... Stacking, asymmetry and fragmentation set Suzanne Kalan apart. MOJEH speaks to the designer cutting a fresh facet in the face of high jewellery.
197. The Other Givenchy As the nephew of the famed fashion couturier, the rarefied world of haute jewellery designer, James de Givenchy, dazzles brightly.
200. Forest Fineries Celebrating Coco Chanel’s regard for the season of harvest, the French fashion house draws upon her peasant roots to create precious sheaves of wheat for their latest high jewellery collection.
THE DUBAI MALL | +971.800.LEVEL.SD | LEVELSHOES.COM
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Health & Beauty 202. China Calling From jade skin rollers to ingestible pearl powder, what can we learn from the ancient beauty rituals of the Orient?
206. The Great Vitamin Fake Off There’s a pill for that, or not, as the case may be. We dissect the growing evidence that says our supplements should be sidelined.
Culture 216. Life Behind The Curtain Our thirst for behind the scenes is unrelenting and a once closed-off world has opened up. MOJEH lifts the curtain on the rapidly growing fashion documentary phenomenon.
220. Superstar Art Art as a vehicle for social commentary often critiques the system that allows it to thrive. We speculate over this paradox by examining the practice of Oscar Murillo.
visionnairedubai.com
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E d i t o r ’s L ette r
Photographed by Anthony Arquier
Navigating your way around a new season could be overwhelming. What can stay from the previous season; how many white shirts do I actually really need; green is the hue of October but it doesn’t suit my complexion… the trials and tribulations can go on, and on. If, of course, you take it all that seriously. We on the other hand believe that functionality, personality and freedom rules, which is why we introduced the Style Issue to our seasonal line-up. It’s about eliminating all the unnecessary rhetoric and offering an edited approach to what could otherwise be a minefield. In Fall’s New Focus, we break down the championing trends, and in The Dress-Maker we suggest varying ways to take on the piece of
Fall’s New Style Rules
the season, while Eclectic Excess makes October’s reigning look feel a bit more manageable. Key to all: personality. Of course we all know that style is about far more than just clothes and as individuality prevails more and more these days, high jewellery in its exclusive and one-of-a-kind nature becomes the leading character in any conversation. What better expression of oneself than a piece carefully picked for its structure, stones and, most importantly, its story? Our cover shoot featuring Cartier shows what happens when you eschew trends in favour of effortlessly sophisticated pieces that carry a more thoughtful narrative. Speaking of sophistication, as we send for print, Tomas Maier has just sent out his 15th anniversary collection for the house of Bottega Veneta. It was a runway shunning trends and instead opting for an ethos of ‘private luxury’. Arguably more notable, was his genderless approach in which he showed his women’s and menswear collections in one show – a method becoming increasingly popular across all four cities. The day prior, Moschino launched its capsule collection in the Middle East only hours after it showed in Milan, and in the previous week Burberry filled its stores with the same pieces simultaneously walking its runway. Fashion is in flux and for the consumer it means being faced with an excess of pieces from all walks of life. There’s rarely a common thread, and instead the prevailing element anchoring the industry together is you - your ability to see outside of seasons and purchase pieces based purely on craftsmanship, functionality, endurance and, most of all, love. The best part: rules can only be left wailing in the wind. So, if you ask me what the new rules for fall are, my answer is, “there are none”.
Follow me on Twitter and Instagram @Mojeh_I and write to me at editor@mojeh.com
Mojeh Izadpanah Editor in Chief
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E d i t o r ’s SN A P SHOT s
Azure Skies 5
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3&4
The cool wash of midnight blue brings about a mystical allure. Rich in its potency, the hue delivers depth to precious stones and dimension to textured surfaces. Look to pair delicate black sheers with blue furs and velvet slides. 1. DIANE VON FURSTENBERG | 2. SIMONE ROCHA @stylebop.com | 3. EUGENIA KIM @net-a-porter.com | 4. BOTTEGA VENETA | 5. CHANEL | 6. PIAGET | 7. CARRERA Y CARRERA | 8. FENDI | 9. JIL SANDER @stylebop.com
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8&9
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Soft To The Core Velvet takes on a vision of enchantment this season, with fairy-tale motifs and a sense of the whimsical. Lean towards Giuseppe Zanotti’s midnight blue boots for tough durability and Lanvin’s dainty choker for soft romance.
Headband, DOLCE&GABBANA | Heels, JIMMY CHOO | Boots, GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI | Choker, LANVIN
Photographed by Sarvenaz Hashtroudi, styled by Sophie Pasztor
s t yl e note
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b e a u ty n ote
Out Of The Ashes Charcoal is the new buzzword in beauty and its sudden popularity has been matched with remarkable skin benefits. The unlikely ingredient works to soak up excess oil and eliminate impurities.
Photographed by Sarvenaz Hashtroudi, styled by Sophie Pasztor
Top to bottom: Charcoal Rescue Masque, DERMALOGICA | Pore Refining Solutions Charcoal Mask, CLINIQUE | The Problem Solver Correcting Masque, MAY LINDSTROM @net-a-porter.com
©2016 COACH®
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s t yl e note
P o l i s h e d
Punk From Balenciaga’s studded flats to Alexander McQueen’s rockstar clutch with edgy hardware, designers are advocating a fashion rebellion this season. Look to mix these punk accessories with streamline tailoring for a well-rounded look.
Photographed by Sarvenaz Hashtroudi, styled by Sophie Pasztor
Left to right: Heels, VERSACE | Bag, MULBERRY | Clutch, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN | Sandals, BALENCIAGA | Bangle, CÉLINE
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M OJEH I nter v i e w
Parris Gordon Describe your signature style: Romantic, rock ‘n’ roll inspired | Favourite Beaufille pieces: Our Calypso sweater worn with a skinny pant, paired with Chelsea boots and a vintage t-shirt | Favourite places to gather sartorial inspiration: Tumblr, nature, travelling, historical clothing, music | Winter wardrobe updates we should all make: Statement earrings and one bold ring | Top three beauty tips: Living Libations Seabuckthorn Best Skin Ever, dry brushing, clean eating | Describe your morning routine: Exercise, lemon water with turmeric, a healthy breakfast and coffee! | Best piece of advice: Trust your gut | Favourite book: The Picture of Dorian Grey by Oscar Wilde | Style icon: Kate Moss | Favourite film: Clueless | Favourite place to eat: Mom’s kitchen – need I say more?! | Favourite place to grab a healthy juice: Greenhouse Juice Co | Favourite place to shop for a one–of–a–kind piece: A Parisian flea market | Favourite place to take an exercise class: MisfitStudio, Toronto | Favourite place for beauty treatments: Laya Spa & Yoga, Toronto | Favourite place to vacation: Maui
Meet designers of the moment,
Beaufille
| Favourite secret café: Sam James Coffee, Toronto Street, Toronto | Favourite Canadian pastimes: Snowboarding | Favourite places
Chloé Gordon
to shop in Canada: The Room, Toronto. Signature style: Effortless, tomboy | Favourite Beaufille pieces: A good pair of high-waisted trousers with a twist. Right now, our Ursa wide leg trouser on Net-A-Porter is my go-to | Favourite Beaufille, meaning ‘handsome
places to gather sartorial inspiration: People-
girl’, is the clean and minimal
watching, galleries and museums, the reference
brainchild of two Toronto-based
library | Winter wardrobe updates we should all
sisters, Parris and Chloé Gordon.
make: Asymmetrical knits and off-the-shoulder
Their collection made a splash
silhouettes. These are not just for the warmer
at NYFW and speaks to a certain
months – you can have fun layering these items
type of woman, not quite your
in the autumn/winter seasons | Top three beauty
typical purveyor of femininity, but
tips: Eye-cream every night/day, always wash
nonetheless appealing and sultry
your face before bed, dark brown mascara for
in her own way.
blondes | Describe your morning routine: Coffee
“We design for a modern woman,”
| Best piece of advice: Be yourself | Favourite
the sisters share, “one who is
book: How to Win Friends and Influence People
more concerned with subtleties
by Dale Carnegie | Style icon: Emmanuel Alt |
than bold statements; someone
Favourite film: Pulp Fiction | Favourite place to
comfortable in her own skin and
eat: Bar Raval, Toronto | Favourite place to grab
experimental with styling.” Working
a healthy juice: Greenhouse Juice Co | Favourite
with rich wools, playful proportions
place to shop for one–of–a–kind pieces: My
and cold sterling metals, Chloé
mother’s/grandmother’s closet | Favourite place
is known for adding a masculine
to take an exercise class: Lagree, Toronto |
touch to the design process,
Favourite place for beauty treatments: M Spa,
while Parris is responsible for
Toronto | Favourite place to vacation: Cabo |
the feminine. Here, we enter into
Favourite secret café: My kitchen! | Favourite
the eclectic world of the women
Canadian pastimes: Being by the ocean
behind the standout emerging
in Nova Scotia and nature walks | Favourite
brand of the season.
places to shop in Canada: Kensington Market.
Home at last.
AGENT FOR GCC COUNTRIES Pia Colzani Tel. +39 335 8394824 pia.flexform@gmail.com
GROUNDPIECE SECTIONAL SOFA
design by Antonio Citterio
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Tal k ing P o i nt
Is It Too Late To Say Sorry? From apps intended to tone down our language to trending hashtags, as women, we have become increasingly stigmatised for saying ‘sorry’. But, what is the best practice for an apology?
Words by Laura Beaney
Apologies – some say they’re thrown around too
Just Not Sorry, a plug-in aimed at females, vets emails
lightly, while others struggle to utter the words. And
and underlines overly apologetic language. Its creator
women, according to recent media accolades like
Tami Reiss maintains that her innovation is a tool to
Sloane Crosley’s New York Times Op-Ed column, Why
help women reclaim the power that softer language
Women Apologize and Should Stop, offer them out far
might lose. “It reminds women to be confident in their
too frequently. But in our skewed world where gender-
opinions and expressions,” she explains. “The more
based power struggles still exist in the office, can our
confident we are in ourselves, the more confidence
language and the way we apologise, in particular,
others will instill in us.” Reiss has a point – many
undermine our intent or even hold us back?
industries demand a certain level of confidence in
In MOJEH Issue 40, A Life Less Troubled, we
leadership. If you are, for example, trying to convince
investigated the repercussions of avoiding self-
someone to invest in your project, using language
reflection, a key component of any convincing apology.
like ‘I think’ or ‘I hope’ is neither persuasive nor
“The need for apologies and repair is a singularly
reassuring. And, while nobody wants to be the meek
human one, both on the giving and receiving end,”
and mild over-apologiser that fades into oblivion, is
explains psychologist Harriet Lerner, author of The
the apology really such an affliction that we need to
Dance of Anger and forthcoming book, Why Won’t
wean ourselves from it?
You Apologize?: Healing Big Betrayals and Everyday
To start with, one should understand that the negative
Hurts. Yet, despite Lerner’s reasoning, trending
sweeping statements surrounding the female use of
hashtags like #SorryNotSorry and applications like
‘sorry’ are very generalistic. “I’m yet to be convinced
‘Just Not Sorry’ push us to believe that the apology
that women are overly apologetic,” says Henry
is our enemy. But, as someone raised to respect
Hitchens, author of ‘Sorry! The Englishmen and Their
open channels of communication as a form of
Manners’, believing that the prevalence of the apology
progression, this presents a challenge. As a woman,
relates more strongly to location. “In common with,
should I curb my speech to be taken seriously?
say, Japan and Singapore, Britain is a very densely
Photographed by Gaetan Caputo MOJEH Issue 15
populated country, and it’s noticeable that in countries where people are in a state of perpetual friction (both literally and figuratively speaking), manners become very important as a social lubricant,” he suggests. And, despite an overabundance of people to appease, looking at the word ‘sorry’ on the whole, there is a lot of room for it to become lost in translation. ‘Sorry’ can mean anything from the apology itself to an excuse for interruption or a way of asking somebody to repeat themselves. The subtleties of language are indeed complex and while the stereotypical image of the female boss, timidly apologising for asking her team to work, does hold up in some cases, research has shown that both males and females of a high rank tend to ‘do’ leadership in similar ways, drawing upon linguistic strategies appropriate to the co-workers and context. In fact, women will often take measures to close the supposed gender-gap by over-compensating with their language. “It’s not as simple as women over apologise, men under apologise…. Women also, especially if they are bosses, may consciously use more aggressive, not less aggressive language to compensate and there are many cases on record,” insists Tony Thorne, Language Consultant at King’s College, London. So how do we reset the balance? Author P.G. Wodehouse famously quipped, “It’s a good rule in life never to apologise. The right sort of people do not want apologies, and the wrong sort take a mean advantage of them.” But, Lerner takes us back to my initial query about communication, highlighting that our ability to reflect and repent is part of the much bigger picture of who we are as a human being. Not only to the advantage of the recipient, an apology is a 50/50 process, cathartic to both parties. “‘I’m sorry’ sounds like a simple matter, yet it’s extremely difficult to have the courage to apologise and the wisdom and clarity to do it well. Nothing is more important for relationship success,” she shares. And, while we err on the side of caution when it comes to telling women how to speak, Lerner, who has been studying apologies for over two decades, ultimately advises that listening is just as important as the words themselves. “The good apology is healing and soothing. We strengthen our relationships when others know that we’re capable of reflecting on our behaviour, and that we’ll listen to their feelings and do our best to set things right.”
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s t yl e note
Defining Details A bold expression for affluence is portrayed through opulent details. Focus on defining decorations such as stone encrusted shoes and bejewelled
Photographed by Sarvenaz Hashtroudi, styled by Sophie Pasztor
brooches for decadent day-to-night dressing.
Left to right: Brooch, CHANEL | Heels, GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI | Earrings, LANVIN | Clutch and sunglasses, JIMMY CHOO | Earrings, BALENCIAGA
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FA SHION IN F O C US
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Chriselle Lim
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Barely There Black is replaced with dusted pink in a romantic update for autumn. Swept from head-to-toe for optimal impact, the feminine wash of colour works to streamline your look and deliver a polished outcome.
1. CHRISTIAN DIOR | 2. JUAN CARLOS OBANDO @net-aporter.com | 3. LANVIN @net-a-porter.com | 4. DSQUARED2 | 5. GORGIO ARMANI | 6. MAX MARA | 7. MADIYAH AL SHARQI
4 6 5
Words by Sophie Pasztor
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Style League
Olivia Palermo
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Sports luxe takes on couture-like details with delicate embroidery on everything from skirts to jackets. The juxtaposition of leather and cotton provides an edge, while strategic bursts of colour add a playful nature to the trend.
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1. ANINE BING | 2. VALENTINO @stylebop.com | 3. GUCCI | 4. COACH | 5. FENDI | 6. ELISABETTA FRANCHI | 7. ALEXANDER MCQUEEN | 8. CHANEL
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Samantha Angelo
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High Impact Go big or go home with bold pattern clashing. The eccentric style is made more wearable this season, with neutral inclusions like all-grey waistcoats or statement separates.
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1. CÉLINE | 2. MAX MARA | 3. VERSACE | 4. GUCCI | 5. CHRISTIAN DIOR | 6. DIANE VON FURSTENBERG @net-a-porter.com | 7. FENDI | 8. SOPHIE BILLIE BRAHE @stylebop.com
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Back to Basics
Yoyo Cao
7 Understated glamour looks effortless in its make-up, but is powerful in its impact. Bare neutral knits and simple tees, while donning flared denims and fuss-free flats.
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1. CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN | 2. DIANE VON FURSTENBERG | 3. OSCAR DE LA RENTA | 4. CHRISTIAN DIOR | 5. CÉLINE | 6. M MISSONI | 7. GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI | 8. STELLA MCCARTNEY
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S o c i ety W o m en
Sally wears top, ZARA | Trousers, PATRIZIA PEPE | Heels, ALDO | Watch, ROLEX | Bracelet, TIFFANY
Sally Sarieddine Sally Sarieddine, founder of ethical handbag label LaLaQueen, has made her love of fashion a conscious one. With a style that is as vibrant as her personality and an inspiring drive for self-expression, her quest for sustainability has led her down a road of success. We caught up with the Lebaneseborn designer for some life secrets.
Motto to live by: There are many. But, I do believe it’s not about what you do, it’s your attitude in doing it | Best advice: Never give up | Person who has taught you the most: My mum | What inspires you: The universe and the stars | Person you’d most like to meet: Amal Alamuddin. And, if I went back in time, it would be Elvis Presley | On the bucket list: I want to go to Iceland and stay in an igloo and watch the Northern Lights | Most cherished possession: A ring my mum gave me | Most exciting event in your diary for October: We will be doing a soft opening for the new LaLaQueen
Shot at Al Barari by Julia from The Factory ME, Interviewed by Sophie Pasztor
My Stylish Life:
store in Lebanon, which I’m so excited about | Last book you read: Recently, I’ve been reading The Book of Mirdad by Mikhail Naimy, and Immortality by Milan Kundera. The Book of Mirdad is very deep, philosophical and spiritual, with many enlightening messages. I love the way the characters in Immortality are described. I appreciate the perspectives of personality and layers of truth which are unravelled | Song on repeat: Currently, I’m loving Riptide by Vance Joy | Favourite beach destination: Maldives | Ideal holiday: Somewhere I can be outdoors hiking or with nature. I would love to go to Peru and do the Inca trail and the Amazon, and explore an ancient civilisation | Favourite travel partners: I have a
Sally wears dress, MIRA HAYEK | Watch, ROLEX | Bracelet, TIFFANY
lot of friends who I travel with, but I’ve recently been travelling with a very close friend named Lama. Together, we have been to Tibet, Italy, Nepal and the United States, and had a great time | Where did you travel to this summer: Bhutan. An upcoming LaLaQueen project was
hairdresser: I don’t like hairdressers; I
always moisturise as I feel it will make my
inspired by this magical trip… stay tuned!
don’t like people telling me how I should
skin lazy; so, I respond to how my skin
| Favourite fashion brands: LaLaQueen,
do my hair | Blow-dry or au-naturel: Au-
feels on the day. But, I definitely believe
Mira Hayek, Fendi | Favourite local
naturel | Favourite beauty brand: Mac
in keeping skin clean and drinking plenty
designer: D by Dalia | Heels or flats:
| Staple lipstick and shade: Plums and
of water | How do you stay in shape: I
Both. It depends on the occasion | Style
purples | Nail colour for October: Red
work out around four times a week with
icon: Carmen Dell’Orefice | Signature
| Sun factor: SPF15 on the face each
yoga, personal training at the gym and
style: Comfortable with an edge |
morning | Best health tip: Eat well and
body pump classes | What supplements
Best denim brand: Any brand that is
drink plenty of water | Favourite at-home
do you take: Bee pollen – it regenerates
comfortable and consciously sourced |
beauty solution: Aloe Vera: I chop it and
the cells and gives you a boost of energy.
Bag of the moment: LaLaQueen Dr. Bag!
have it as a smoothie or use it on my skin
Also Vitamin C | Natural remedies that
| Favourite city to shop: London | Trend
| Signature scent: Diptyque | What’s your
you swear by: Soaking in salt water
to covet for a/w16: It’s not about trends,
daily beauty regime: I tend to moisturise
and coffee scrubs | Best workout: A
it’s about dressing for you and expressing
my face in the morning and remove my
good run | Yoga or Pilates: Yoga | At-
your attitude and inner style | Go-to
makeup before I sleep. Although I don’t
sea or inland: Inland with a sea view.
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S t yl e N otes
The
Dress-Maker High bohemia, running track-ready or feminine through and through, how will you indulge the season’s prevailing piece: the dress. See our edit of the essential takehomes and how to tailor them to suit a multitude of moods.
Photographed by Liv Friis-Larsen Styled by Kelly Baldwin
Will high bohemia ever make its way back in to the archives? We think not. Team with this season’s puffer jacket to kill its overly girly nature. Dress, BURBERRY | Jacket, CHANEL
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Behind every good dress is an even better coat, and here, the Oriental prints of Fendi’s oversized blazer offer an offbeat element to the regal-toned green. Slightly untamed hair and beigehued beauty compliments the bronze piece. Dress and jacket, FENDI
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Instead of head-to-toe silk, look for pieces with subtle additions such as ribbed panels and lax pleats. Colour note: The soft salmon hue makes a winter style appropriate for the Middle Eastern sun. Dress, HERMĂˆS
Skirts over trousers, a key takeaway from ss16, transitions across to winter in varying versions. Here, Céline uses black against crimson and plays with shape. Top and trousers, Céline | Fur stole, MARNI | Bangle and necklace, HERMÈS
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Take a laissez-faire approach to lace by adding oversized knits in earthy hues. What is traditionally a formal material becomes loungewear-appropriate. Dress and jumper, STELLA MCCARTNEY
Sheers and taffeta needn’t be kept aside for evening attire. Nonchalantly throw on an athletically inspired sweater or jacket to induce functionality and casualness. Dress, LANVIN | Jumper, LOUIS VUITTON
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Italian designer Marco de Vincenzo continues to challenge traditional rules in fashion. Offset his avantgarde dresses with age-old coats for a new versus old style struggle. Top, skirt and belt, MARCO DE VINCENZO | Coat, CHANEL
Layering remains key to the season – add interest to a simple slip dress by teaming with a printed skirt underneath. When accessorising with fur - a winter must - opt for simplicity. Dress and skirt, MARNI | Fur stole, FENDI
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Juxtapose sporty with sensual in a style that fuses bodycon fabrics with fabulously feminine frills. Team with robust boots for added oomph and comb hair back with a loosely wet effect for athletic measure. Dress, skirt and boots, LOUIS VUITTON
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Embellishment takes a potent turn towards colossal-sized for the months ahead. Barely there make-up and pared-back hair complement the maximal look as opposed to battling with it. Dress, MARNI
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If structured and streamlined is your preference, then look towards the coat-dress for a piece that is contemporary while remaining refined. Choice tones are chalky shades for added softness. Top and coat dress, CHRISTIAN DIOR
Model: Karolina at MMG Models Hair & Makeup Artist: Annesofie Begtrup Stylist’s Assistant: Sophie Pasztor
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The Look
Sweet and demure sorbet shades are layered for maximum visual impact, while multiple accessories bring points of interest to each look
When it comes to layering and accessorising for autumn, how much is too much? If one of the season’s key looks is anything to go by, then too much is never enough.
Eclectic Excess
72 Gucci’s more is more approach to dressing sees crystals, pearls, sequins and fur used to bring vintage silhouettes to life
‘Rhizomatic Scores’ was both the title and the theme of Gucci’s autumn/winter16 show. The term rhizomatic stems from a philosophical notion developed by two French semiologists during the 1970s, and refers to a decentralised thought process that develops in a sporadic and disorderly matter. Michele’s show notes provided some clarity on the matter, explaining that his collection encompassed a key principle of heterogeneity and highlighted decontextualised signs and unexpected compositions as some of the core concepts of the collection. Since taking the reins at Gucci in January 2015,
Prints and patterns are offset against block colours in contrasting textures
Michele has taken the rules previously established for dressing and thrown them out the window, choosing instead to indulge in a diverse mix and match master class, which sees the unexpected and unconventional
worn as part of many different ensembles. Wardrobe
take on an eccentric, whimsical and nostalgic sense of
fundamentals such as well-constructed blazers,
romance. And, he’s not the only one – the autumn/winter16
tailored trousers, embellished knitwear and pleated
collections saw houses such as Givenchy, Christian Dior,
skirts in eclectic hues, prints and fabrics all have
Dries van Noten, Miu Miu, Mary Katrantzou and Rochas
considerable staying power. Update accessories with
send out multi-faceted looks inspired by a wide range of
tactile and textured new season classics such as
eras, cultures and ideas, appealing to intelligent, educated
Gucci’s GG Marmont bag in sumptuous teal velvet
and well-travelled women the world over.
or pearl-encrusted platform sandals. For the more
So scientific, philosophical and historical references
daring, embrace the new wave of maximalism and
aside, how does one take this new style of dressing
go all out by selecting one of the season’s frothy,
off the runway and into everyday life? For daywear,
multi-coloured gowns, or a shaggy fur coat in a
we suggest deconstructing your favourite looks
sweet pastel shade; or, add a punch to your working
and investing in one or two key pieces that can be
wardrobe with a coordinating metallic jacquard suit.
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T h e M o v em ent
Words by Mary Keenan
As millennials come of age, established fashion houses are appointing street savvy creative directors to bring an enticing edge and youthful aesthetic to their collections.
Street Smart
Demna Gvasalia’s deconstructed puffer jackets on the runway at Balenciaga’s autumn/winter16 show
Cropped leather jackets and metal chain accessories added a hard edge to Mulberry’s tailored longline shirts
DKNY took a cheeky stab at branding with their ‘Insert Logo Here’ autumn/winter16 t-shirts
It all started in November 2014, when Mulberry appointed Johnny Coca, Céline’s head accessories designer as their creative director; this was followed by the announcement that streetwear brand Public School’s Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne were to take the helm at DKNY in April 2015. Then, last October, Balenciaga shocked everyone with their decision to hire Demna Gvasalia of underground collective Vetements as Alexander Wang’s replacement. The fashion world is by no means a stranger to designer shakeups, but these changes indicate that a new movement is afoot. In an era where sales maketh the success and the consumer always comes out king, these storied fashion houses are looking to designers with streetwear sensibilities to not only revive and rejuvenate stagnating sales, but also do so by appealing to a whole new generation of consumers, while retaining their existing clientele. So far, designers’ attempts to pull off this tricky balancing act have been a success, with the push to attract and engage a larger audience resulting in well-designed, streetwise clothes that are, above all else, wearable. These slightly younger pieces can be mixed in with a classic wardrobe to give it a hit of contemporary cool. One only has to glance at the collections to see how to do this: Drape Mulberry’s shrunken biker jacket over a polished, crisp shirt for just the right amount of urban grit; Balenciaga’s puffer jackets paired with cigarette trousers are super practical and uber cool, while DKNY’s oversized tees with witty wordplay layered under slinky overalls are both high fashion and highly Instagrammable. Luxury fashion has always borrowed from the streets, but this new movement towards designers with a street aesthetic sees the rigidity of our favourite houses revolutionised in a fresh and exciting manner.
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T h e P i ec e
The Pixels Bathurst Satchel on the runway during the autumn/winter16 show
Pixel Power Anya Hindmarch’s colourful satchel gets our vote for accessory of the season.
Anya Hindmarch is known for her fun approach to fashion and her incredible ability to transform mundane, everyday items into It-Bags – remember the road sign inspired collection and the sellout stickers, not to mention the Kellogg’s Tony the Tiger totes? For autumn/winter16, the British designer’s decision to explore pixelation and colour took showgoers on a nostalgic journey of kaleidoscopic hues. Focusing on early eight-bit graphics and arcade games, Hindmarch sent out a collection of coats and bags referencing an era long before smartphones and social media. Playful Pacman ghosts, googly eyes, fried eggs and Space Invaders characters constructed from oversized crystals were emblazoned onto bag flaps and pockets. Of these, the Tetris-esque none more so than those on the Pixels Bathurst Satchel. Leather pixels have been carefully attached to the suede navy bag using a technique similar to leather marquetry. A surefire way to bring colour to your wardrobe, this bag proves that it’s never been cooler to be a square.
Words by Mary Keenan
colourful squares were easily the most commanding,
Turtleneck knits, high-collared jacquard sweaters and off-the-shoulder crepe dresses put the collection’s focus squarely on the neckline
New Season Necklines As autumn’s cooler climes begin to transform the way we dress, MOJEH looks to Dior’s autumn/winter collection, where the focus falls on redefining the neckline.
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The Focus
Structural folds draw the eye across the neck and to the embroidered silk shoulder detailing on a black wool dress, while a contrasting neckline on a navy fur pea coat folds away from the dĂŠcolletage in a deep V
A model walks the runway in a white angora knit high-necked sweater and a double-breasted khaki cashmere coat
A ribbed navy knit pairs perfectly with an offwhite and rust fur coat
Occurring in a slightly uncertain post-Raf Simons and pre-Maria Grazia Chiuri world, Dior’s autumn/winter16 collection was designed by the house’s studio team, led by Lucie Meier and Serge Ruffieux. Comprised of a comprehensive mix of dresses, flounced coats, fitted pencil skirts and chic knitwear, the collection channelled a youthful femininity, amid which the standout feature proved to be its necklines. Taking centre stage amongst the collection’s clean lines and silhouettes, the necklines ebbed and flowed in varying heights, cuts and proportions. Coats took on two distinct forms, the first styles with a deep cut V-neck collar which displayed underlying crisp shirts and ribbed knitwear in contrasting colours, while at the other end of the spectrum, sculptural necklines and architectural folds swept high up under the chin. Meanwhile, a traditional collar on a crisp white peplum jacket was replaced with a sleek necktie bow. The dresses told a different story, minimal and sensual in their appeal, with necklines either tracking a straight line below unadorned décolletages or draped off one shoulder at right angles. There’s a refined simplicity to this collection, in which there is almost certainly a neckline to suit every woman and occasion.
A swathe of cashmere sweeps high over the shoulder
Taking centre stage among the collection’s clean lines and silhouettes, the necklines ebbed and flowed in varying heights, cuts and proportions.
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S t yl e note
E l e vat i o n Reach new heights by pairing this season’s thigh-high boots and a long sleeve knit dress for relaxed ease, or take a masculine approach and trial a boxy jacket with a collared shirt and jeans.
Left to right: GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI | ELISABETTA FRANCHI | SAINT LAURENT
Photographed by Rhys Simpson-Hopkins, styled by Sophie Pasztor
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M OJEH W o m en
Endless Summer Meet Zimmermann, the Australian brand keeping us in ethereal gowns and bohemian-esque swimwear all year round.
When naivety becomes your biggest asset. Nicky: I was taught to sew by my grandmother and started making clothes as a young girl – it’s really all I can ever remember wanting to do. I used to make garments from our garage at home at a beachside suburb in Sydney, and would sell what I made to the girls I grew up with. When I finished high school, I was accepted into design school, which was amazing for me. After graduating, I worked for a swimwear company for a few months, but quickly decided that I wanted to start doing my own thing. I
When it comes to the most successful sister acts in fashion, it’s hard not to think
was young and pretty naïve, but that was probably
of the partnership between Nicky and Simone Zimmerman. Since launching their
a good thing, because I just went ahead and did it.
eponymous label from their parents’ garage in Sydney in 1991, the pair have
I would design clothes during the week and then
championed the trans-seasonal wardrobe, elevating their brand onto the global
sell them at Sydney’s Paddington markets on a
stage, making it a firm favourite with impeccably dressed women the world over.
Saturday. The markets were a breeding ground for
Here, they share some of their favourite anecdotes.
young creatives and designers in Australia back then. From those early pieces, I managed to get some editorial coverage in Australian Vogue, which led to interest from a few local boutiques that wanted to stock the label. Suddenly, I had this little business, but as a creative person I really had no idea about how to manage that. This was when Simone joined me, and that was really the start of Zimmermann. Why a ‘sister fight’ is not always a bad thing. Simone: We get asked about our working relationship as sisters often and honestly, it’s always been a positive thing for us. We share the same values and think about decisions in the same way, so we’ve always been aligned. In saying that, we’ve had our moments too – when we were a bit younger, there were some pretty great sister fights that happened in the studio. We would scream and shout at each other and everyone around us would hide, but then we would just laugh about it and move on. Nicky: Simone has been a constant, stable figure in the business and has supported what I wanted to do creatively. We’ve always worked well together – even when she has been an annoying older sister! Life’s a beach. Nicky: Growing up in Sydney and the lifestyle that we have here has constantly underpinned the way I think about design and dressing. It’s all I’ve known. We grew up near the ocean, so we spent our days outdoors at the beach and generally having fun. has shaped what we create, but I think there’s also a modern sophistication that comes with Australia, too. Spreading your wings creates more opportunity. Simone: Our decision to launch internationally at
Simone and Nicky in their Sydney design studio
New York Fashion Week in September 2013 wasn’t a big change for us. We had been doing shows for
Images courtesy of Zimmermann
There is a certain casualness to this way of life that
Lily Donaldson stars in the brand’s summer 2016 swimwear campaign
years in Australia and had also been working in New York for a long time with the brand. Nicky: For me, launching in New York meant that I had to move a lot of the work we do pre-show out of our Sydney studio, and do all of the preparations and fittings in a different environment, without our full team. But, that was easily overcome and I just remember thinking how much I loved it – how much I love the buzz of showing in a city that I adore and presenting what we do to a bigger audience. We have always known that as an Australian brand, we need a home-away-from home in a fashion sense – we couldn’t just stay in Australia season after season. We needed to show in one of the global fashion markets – and for us, that city is New York. An Empire State of Mind. Nicky: I don’t think showing in New York has changed the way we think about our broader
A delicate lace dress from the summer 2016 collection
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Mirrored discs and embellishments adorn the intricately patterned fabrics of the autumn/winter16 collection
aesthetic, but it has really made us think about what we want to say with a collection and the points of creative difference we’ve always had. We’re still a brand from Australia and I’m still a designer from Sydney that lives and is inspired by what is around me. The Zimmermann woman is in all of us. Nicky: The Zimmermann woman is feminine and likes to have fun with fashion. She loves to buy things that make her feel good and has an eye for something new and unexpected. She’s young at heart, she’s well-travelled – she’s someone I want to hang out with! What women want. Simone: So much of what we create is connected with great occasions and great times – whether it’s an amazing summer holiday, a special event, an engagement or a party. With our Swim and
Resort collections, a woman can buy a well-cut
Why India is an autumn inspiration.
swimsuit and a great dress that they can layer
Nicky: For Fall 2016, we explored the connection
over it during the day and then wear to a casual
between how we dress and how we feel. We
summer dinner at night. With our ready-to-wear
wanted to create a collection that felt uplifting
line, it is obviously dressier and more occasion-
and optimistic, and we sought inspiration from
focussed, and I think the way we embrace detail
the rich colours, prints and textures of India’s
and fabrication in a feminine and unique way is
culture and architecture.
something that women are drawn to. Seclusion can lead to success. Zimmermann’s signature style.
Simone: The Australian environment and our
Nicky: Feminine, fresh and optimistic.
isolation does influence the way we create. Being from Sydney has unquestionably been one of the biggest things that has defined who we are as a brand, and shaped the way we view the world and our approach to design. It goes right back to
A model walks the runway during the autumn/winter16 show in New York
our first steps into swimwear in the mid-Nineties, which was so much about living in an urban beach city – but, it is now much more nuanced and developed than that. It’s about how we live, how we look, how we go out and how we travel. These things have helped us develop our brand identity and the aesthetic signature we have. Why the client will always come first. Simone: I think that people around the world are hungry for new stories, new ideas and new experiences. Designers and brands that continue to put their client and their experience at the centre of what they do, and deliver something new and unique, will do well. Weekends well spent. Nicky: My husband and I have two kids who are very active, so on the weekends when I’m not working, I’m usually taking them to obscure parks all over Sydney to their sporting events. It’s not very “fashion”, but I do love to just stay at home and spend time in the garden, go for dinner with friends or hang out at the beach. The fundamentals of a fashion designer’s wardrobe. Nicky: I love mixing Zimmermann with vintage finds and other brands. I like Céline, Chloé, Acne, Marni, JW Anderson – all for different things and different reasons. I love shopping!
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M OJEH W o man
Elle Macpherson attends the Marc Cain show at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin spring/summer16
Elle’s
Words by Jessamy Calkin I now understand what kind of lace is going to be just right for the wings of the bra, or if it should be net or micromesh. It’s about the application of experience, and the freedom to be as creative as I want.” “Because I’m a 50 per cent shareholder of the business, I’m also involved in all the commercial aspects. So, we chose Gilles Bensimon to shoot the campaign, who’s a dear friend of mine…” And your ex-husband, I point out. “Yes,” agrees Macpherson, without missing a beat (they were married for three years, from 1986). “So, he shot the campaign, and we’ve got a fantastic girl called Kirsten to model it. She’s Danish, but she embodies this free
Next Empire
spirit of Australia. I think the DNA of Australia
The Australian supermodel talks politics, plastic surgery, nutrition and her latest foray into fashion.
by her teenage stepdaughters. In America,
is very freedom-oriented; I wanted to capture that in my imagery and in the product. And, I could do what I’ve always wanted, which was to design the perfect T-shirt bra.” Macpherson was inspired to create this line she says, there’s little variety, with Victoria’s Secret and Walmart and not much else in between. They don’t have the luxury of M&S, or Rigby & Peller. She has two stepdaughters (aged 16 and 18), who only shopped at
When Elle Macpherson was 13, her mother
look like a million dollars. She is 52, long and
Victoria’s Secret. “I wanted to create a cool,
bought her a matching bra and knickers set.
rangy, and there’s something tomboyish about
sexy alternative for young girls.”
“I was obsessed with them, even at that age,”
her. She has gorgeous hair, a lovely face, and a
Licensing is a more usual way to go about
she recalls. “From then on, I always wanted
somewhat steely expression behind the smile.
things if you’re a celebrity – but, licensing your
matching sets – and I’d never wear the bra
It was announced in 2014 that Macpherson
name and image to a company is very different
with the wrong knickers; I would even wash
was ending her 25-year licensing arrangement
from sitting on the board. After Macpherson
them together.” Lingerie has been a significant
with Bendon’s lingerie company. “After many
chose not to renew with Bendon, it was
part of her life ever since, but after a 25-year
years of licensing, I felt it was time for me to
announced that Heidi Klum was taking over
licensing deal to create Elle Macpherson
build my own business,” she says. “I wanted
its Intimates range (She’d previously muscled
Intimates, she threw in the towel in order to
to put everything I had learnt into practice,
in on Macpherson’s territory when she stated
set up her own company, Elle Macpherson
and I didn’t want to look back wishing I’d
in a Victoria’s Secret ad, “They call me The
Body, which was launched recently.
done things differently. It wasn’t easy to walk
Body.”). So, was Macpherson angry about her
‘The Body’ was the nickname given to her by
away from the security of a licensing income,
collection being handed over to the German-
Time magazine in 1989, but there is a lot more
but I realised that there were unfortunate
born model? “Why would I be angry?” she
to Macpherson than that. Ever since leaving
limitations to my involvement.” Three months
says in her smiling, steely voice. It would annoy
Ford Models to set up her own company,
later, she was working on a business plan for
me, if I were you. “That they took my clothes
Elle Macpherson Inc, at the age of 25, she
her new company, and a year after that she
and ripped out the labels and put somebody
has exhibited a sharp business brain and is
had set up with partners Simon de Winter and
else’s in? That’s one way of doing business,”
now a multimillionaire. She is also married to
Solomon Lew to form Elle Macpherson Body.
she says smoothly. “That was the choice they
billionaire financier Jeffrey Soffer, and they live
“Taking the step from the billboard to the
made. On the positive side,” she gathers
in another world. Specifically, Miami, where she
boardroom has been one of my biggest and yet
herself, “I’ve loved [being] able to design
moved last year with her two sons (Flynn, 18,
most fulfilling experiences,” is how she puts it, in
what I think we need today – not what we
and Cy, 13, by former partner Arpad Busson).
an email to me after our meeting. Macpherson
needed 25 years ago, but what women want
Macpherson is holding meetings to promote
now works with a team of designers, and has
today. So, not pissed off, no. Fortunate
EMB in the private room of a restaurant in
plenty of involvement in the process. “I have
that I can have a clean slate to work with.”
London’s Clerkenwell, and she does actually
more experience, so I know what I’m doing;
She is, I remark, obviously very driven. Is it the
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Surfing has been a passion of Macpherson’s since she was 17. Pictured here at Wategos Beach while on holiday with friends
business side that drives her, or her passion for
Schiffer. It bit the dust rather spectacularly in
Being Elle, she decided to build a business
lingerie? “I don’t think I’m driven to succeed; it’s
1998, after they fell out with founders Tommaso
around it, refining the recipe into her ‘Super
more that I really enjoy the products. I believe
and Francesco Buti and the business went
Elixir’ – now the flagship WelleCo product.
if you love what you do and do what you love,
bust – but that was hardly her fault.
“I had doctors and scientists formulate the
it doesn’t feel like work, and that’s been my
And, her acting career didn’t result in any
powders for me, so they’re very high-quality.”
experience. I’ve had the courage to try a lot of
Oscar nominations – but she did make 10 films,
WelleCo also offers a sleep tea and protein
things because I’m not afraid to fail, so if I was
appear in a series of Friends and become the
powder. Most people would just be grateful
really driven I probably wouldn’t have explored
only supermodel to have hosted Saturday Night
that they had found a solution and a good
so many mediums.”
Live. I press on: Why lingerie particularly? “I
nutritionist; she turned it into a business. So,
Has she ever failed? Maybe she’s not
spent a lot of time in France, where they take
is it successful? “I consider it to be successful
afraid of failure because she’s never really
lingerie seriously, and I have quite big breasts,
in that it’s helping people, sales are very strong
experienced it. “I don’t call them failures,”
so trying to find a nice 36C bra was pretty
and it’s growing at a beautiful rate. It’s an online
she says. “I don’t experience things as failure
hard.” So, her first goal when she started Elle
business – which is new for me.” Does she stick
because there’s learning in everything you
Macpherson Intimates was to create French-
to the alkaline diet herself? “Well,” she says, “I
do. For me, success is fulfilment. It’s not a
style lingerie with an American fit.
am mindful.” She doesn’t drink and is careful
question of dollars or public opinion, it’s,
“My most successful businesses, like WelleCo,
what she eats. “I’ve been extreme in many ways
‘Was it a fulfilling experience for me?’ I’ve
have been ones where I’ve created something
in the past – everything from exercising a lot
always found it invigorating in some sense.”
that I needed,” she says, referring to her
to being really strict with my diet; taking in too
Macpherson talks like this a lot. She’s very
Australia-based nutrition company. A few years
much sun. Today it’s about finding balance.
experienced at interviews; she’s slick, friendly,
ago, she was not feeling well and not sleeping
Fortunately, I naturally gravitate towards what
and a little controlling (“I don’t know how much
well, so she went to a nutritionist, who told her
makes me feel good.”
of this is really relevant for what you need,”
she had an acidic system… “She gave me this
The Super Elixir sachet declares, “The world’s
she says to me at one point). And, she likes
green powder and I made some changes in
best wholefood and organic supplements,”
to put a positive spin on everything. There is
my life, and I saw a phenomenal difference.” It
which sounds like an ambitious boast – and it
an optimistic veneer that’s hard to penetrate.
was basically an alkaline mixture. “I started to
has an impressive list of ingredients, including
But, maybe everything in Elle-world really is
feel myself again. I lost weight – not that that
vitamins, minerals and digestive enzymes. All
positive. The only flop that springs to mind in
was an issue,” she adds quickly, “but I found
things considered, it doesn’t taste too bad.
her prolific career is the Fashion Cafe venture in
I was not craving sugar, I was sleeping better,
She also developed a protein supplement
New York and London, which she fronted with
my skin was better – and my manicurist said,
specifically for her younger son, Cy: “A clean
Christy Turlington, Naomi Campbell and Claudia
‘Gosh your nails are growing so well…’”
plant protein specially for children, which has all
the vitamins and minerals they need, alkalising and tasty in a snack that they might want to eat when they come home from school.” I ask her about how her regime sits with the family. Don’t her sons roll their eyes and tell her to shut up? “Of course they do,” she admits. “But sometimes, Cy will be really moody and look at me and say, ‘Oops, low blood sugar’, or if he has a headache, he’ll say, ‘Mummy, I’m dehydrated’. But, if I tell him to drink more water, he’ll say stop nagging. All you can do with your kids is guide them; educate them to the best of your ability, and then it’s their free will. I can’t force-feed it.” Is she a strict parent? “The children would say so, but I say, ‘I’m not here to be popular, I’m here to guide you, so you may not like what I have to say but this is how it is’.” If someone were to ask her what advice she’d have given her younger self, it would, she says, be to wear sunblock. Wisdom, she continues, is the advantage of getting older, along with the willingness to apply experience. “People ask me, ‘How do you cope with the ageing process of your body?’ and that’s why I’ve really focused on the way I feel, to make sure I’m doing everything I possibly can from the inside to be healthy and well. How I adapt to the changes in my body is directly related to my happiness and peace. And, if I chose not to adapt, it would be really uncomfortable. It could be small things like what length of skirt to wear, or what kind of shoes, or what colours suit. Trying to hold on to the past doesn’t work for me, I’ve got to put my energy into things that are more purposeful than trying to look like I’m 20.” I ask her if she’s ever had surgery. “No, I haven’t had surgery; it’s not in my game plan. I don’t have any perspective on it for anybody else, only for myself; I would worry because I know
Casting a commanding presence at the Louis Vuitton ready-to-wear show as part of Paris Fashion Week
things can go wrong really easily.” “With some of these procedures, you might feel that you look younger but it doesn’t look quite right. So, I try to keep it really natural. I can’t do
infusions,” she clarifies. “Changing my nutrition
fan? “I tend not to enter into it,” she replies,
laser on my skin because I’ve spent so much
plan and going on the Super Elixir is what has
“because we’re all backyard politicians, but I
time in the sun and it gets hyperpigmentation.”
helped the most, the alkaline diet…” and she’s
wish that Hillary had more feminine energy –
Once an avid sun worshipper, Macpherson
off again. “I’ve learnt that a good smile, good
that means co-operation, creativity, humour,
has been more careful over the past decade.
teeth, good hair, good skin, a good mood is
we’re-in-this-together. But I just think she’s
Has she tried the likes of Botox and collagen?
worth a thousand injectables and Botox and
so masculine; she’s not representing what
“Yeah, I’ve tried things but most of the time
facials and masks. It disguises a myriad of what
could be a really nurturing position as female
they don’t work for me. It doesn’t work for
can be seen as imperfections.” She smiles
president of America.”
my face – sometimes people get things done
widely. “When I look at my pictures, I don’t
Were you an Obama supporter? “The concept
and they look worse. I’m a bit of a scaredy-
want them to retouch my wrinkles.”
behind Obama, yes,” she says obscurely,
cat and I don’t want to mess with what there
Our meeting takes place on a day in London
“but it depends where you stand.” She won’t
is. At this point I think it’s best to leave what
where there’s much talk about the future
be drawn on whether she’s a Democrat or
I have alone. Having said that, I do vitamin
of world politics. Macpherson is intrigued
a Republican. “I had a socialist upbringing,
injections, infusions, and I work on my nutrition.”
about what will happen, and mentions that
being Australian, in the sense that we had free
Why do you need vitamin injections if you have
she’d take Boris over Trump any day, “Or
education, free healthcare; we paid higher taxes
a really good diet? “Vitamin-slash-collagen
Hillary for that matter.” You’re not a Hillary
but you didn’t care because you lived well. [But]
90 a second opportunity came up, having enrolled in law school and needing money to fund it, she decided to take it. “My mum really encouraged me – she said, ‘What else are you going to do? Live in Australia, go to school, get married to the guy round the corner – is that what you really want? Take this opportunity to explore and travel. You’re smart and I trust you’.” It was 1982. Macpherson went to New York, and that’s where it all began. Four years later, she did the first of a record five ‘Swimsuit Issue’ cover shoots for Sports Illustrated. Then, in 1989 came the Time cover story, which landed her with the soubriquet ‘The Body’. It was a defining moment for the 25-year-old, who became one of the key supermodels of the era, working with all the big designers and photographers. Also in 1989, she left Ford Models and formed her own company, Elle Macpherson Inc, running the business through a manager rather than a model agency. “I felt like I needed more purpose and involvement in some of the decisions that were being made for me.” Five years later, she appeared naked in Playboy, shot by Herb Ritts, in response to a media hunt for nude photos of her. She made her own fitness videos, produced a series of swimsuit calendars, and was behind a documentary on the making of… swimsuit calendars. In the mid-1990s, she also started acting and appeared in a season of still think of her as Joey’s girlfriend). In 2010, she started hosting Britain and Ireland’s Next Top Model, on which she was also executive producer. She’s even appeared in an ad for Walker’s Crisps, alongside Gary Lineker. That’s quite a haul. Was there a moment in all this when she felt that she’d really made it? “No, because most of the things that came to pass have been beautiful surprises. I didn’t set out to Elle makes an appearance on NBC News’ Today show
have five covers of Sports Illustrated; they just happened. And, the first time changed my life. I went from promoting Pepsi to having mass appeal, having my image out there and doing
in order to survive in Australia you need to
four, she was born when her mother was only
a tour of America, TV shows, presentations – I
get in there and do it yourself; we’re taught
17. “I went to the beach on weekends, surfed
learnt to be a celebrity to a certain extent, all
to be self-sufficient and independent. We’re
and windsurfed, played sports. I worked in a
through being on that cover.”
a new country and we share that pioneer
pharmacy Thursday evenings and Saturday
“It was a lucky break. But, I think at this
spirit America has; we don’t rest on our
mornings, then in a theatre restaurant – I always
point in my life, being a co-owner of these
family backgrounds. I think it’s quite a ballsy
wanted to be independent and I had a strong
two companies is probably the pinnacle [of
country, a courageous country.”
work ethic.” She was, she says, a responsible
my achievements]… because it’s not through
But, she can’t imagine living there now. “My
teenager, admitting, “I was wilder in my 30s;
luck.” Or through her looks. So, I ask, if you
life is in America; my children are here, my
there was definitely a lot of experimentation
had to pick one word describing what you
husband is here, my stepchildren are here, my
going on then….”
do – on your passport or gravestone – what
businesses are thriving in the UK and America,
She didn’t actively decide to be a model,
would that be?
so at this point in my life it would be unrealistic
but had done a bit of modelling when at 17,
“Entrepreneur,” she says without hesitation.
to imagine myself living in Australia. However,
she was asked to enter a competition. “The
“I think I have an entrepreneurial spirit.
I feel deeply Australian.” Macpherson grew
winner would get a contract with Ford Models
A willingness to explore, give it a go, find the
up in a suburb of Sydney, the daughter of a
in America. I said no because I thought it wasn’t
seed and make something out of it.” So there
nurse and a sound engineer. The eldest of
serious.” She regretted her decision, and when
we have it: Elle Macpherson, entrepreneur.
Jessamy Calkin / Telegraph Magazine / The Interview People. Images courtesy of Isa Fotlin, Peter Kramer, Dominique Charriau and Peter Carrette / Getty.
Friends (17 years on, her son’s schoolmates
Shot at home by Rhys Simpson-Hopkins, Interviewed by Sophie Pasztor
Elissa wears top, trousers and blazer, STELLA MCCARTNEY | Shoes, OFFICE
Working-Class Ahead of the autumn season, we caught up with businesswomen and entrepreneur Elissa Freiha, who talked us through office style and showed us how she’s interpreting one of this season’s biggest trends: the power suit.
92
S t yl e I ns ider
What office bag will you be investing in for
LAYERS. Layers and layers of identity with
The way I wear power suits tends to redefine what
October?
different parts of your character coming out
business attire is expected to be. I go for bright,
The Fendi Demi Jour, in classic black. I am
with each one.
I go for patterns, I go for unique. People respond
absolutely in love with its structure and size,
well to that risk-taking and appreciate you a
and I stock up on Fendi furry monster charms
Which designers are you most looking
little more for adding some colour to their life.
and bandeau scarves to decorate the bag to
forward to for autumn/winter16?
my style that day.
The local designer. MENA talent is stupendous
What do you love most about a power suit?
and getting better every year.
Your suit choice tends to be laissez-fair rather than structured, why?
What are your officewear staples?
To be an entrepreneur you have to be flexible and
Moisturiser and a vintage suit jacket. This makes
How do you transition your workwear for
creative. So choosing more relaxed items allows
me look fresh and put together, regardless of
after-hours entertaining?
me to be creative with my pieces, mix & match
what I am wearing.
Red lipstick. My signature is Mac’s Ruby Woo.
What do you most love about winter styling?
Can you tell us your favourite ways to work
them, as well as be flexible by moving seamlessly between day wear & night wear.
Elissa wears top, trousers and shoes, CÉLINE
Elissa wears top and trousers, DOLCE&GABBANA | Vintage blazer | Shoes, GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI
accessories into your look? Think in depth – for example, shoes aren’t ever just an accessory. How will you be evolving your beauty look into the cooler months? I am excited to try out some seriously dark lip stains. Black or Berry, with a strong crisp eyeliner. I am all for the dramatic. You travel a lot for work – how do you approach this in terms of wardrobe? I only use a carry-on, which I utilise as a way to control over-packing. A handful of statement pieces (shoes, jackets, one dress), and the rest are small basics. Who are your style icons? My siblings. My sister can only be described as the embodiment of creative energy and my brother has so much swagger that it’s magnetic. Both are fearless. What’s your mantra for success? Be yourself. Be comfortable. Comfort is confidence and confidence attracts. You work in a male-dominated industry. What has been your biggest obstacle? Trying to stay true to my creative and eccentric self while in a corporate, male-dominated industry. I’m still in my 20s, with lots of energy and personality – it has taken a while to figure out how to confidently embrace and show off that side of me without seeming unprofessional or ‘young’. How did I overcome that? I was unapologetic about who I was and used the ‘societal expectations’ excuses to invest in better quality clothing that was tailored. How do you start a productive day off? By pressing the snooze button. What’s your favourite way to unwind after a stressful day? I like to paint my furniture or the blank walls of my house. It’s weird, but it’s cathartic.
94
Velvet looks flooded the catwalks from New York to Paris, staking their claim as the season’s most opulent fabric du jour.
Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini
A tie waist kept the slouchy, pyjama-esque dusky pink pantsuit that made its way down Alberta Ferretti’s runway feeling feminine, while contrasting piping drew attention to parameters and pockets.
Alberta Ferretti
Fall’s New Focus MOJEH shows you how to transition five of autumn’s biggest trends off the runway and into real life, and which key pieces you should be buying.
Words by Mary Keenan
Frilly lace cuffs and a high-necked collar brought a heavy sense of nostalgia and romanticism to Lorenzo Serafini’s ruby red velvet midi dress for Philosophy.
Images courtesy of Getty photographers Daniel Zuchnik, Christian Vierig, Edward Berthelot and Melodie Jeng
Velvet Grandeur
O n T r end
How to Wear Velvet can look quite dated at times, so it’s crucial to pick pieces that have a modern cut. Try out a minimalist velvet jumpsuit with a pair of lace-up booties or a wide-legged flared trouser; if uncertain, classic pumps in a rich red or navy should be your go-to.
Top: A caramel coloured velvet trench brings a Nineties vibe to a jeans and white shirt combo on the streets in Paris. Right: This velvet ensemble was a streetstyle hit at Milan Fashion Week, the azure blue shirt brightens the high waisted burgundy trousers and a coordinating coat.
Key Investments
Miu Miu’s elegant handbag from
Santoni’s embellished aqua blue velvet
If you only buy one velvet item, make
slippers are a perfect way to try out
sure it’s a jacket. Altuzarra’s beautifully
Net-a-Porter is a timeless piece
this trend if you aren’t completely sure
cut blazer in rich burgundy from Farfetch
that will transition from a corporate
velvet is for you.
will work with just about anything.
environment to a casual one with ease.
96 How to Wear To layer green successfully, ensure each garment is of a slightly different shade, fabric or sheen. This will provide subtle points of difference that will prevent an all-green ensemble from being visually overwhelming. When it comes to accessorising, the options are endless – tan, black, gold and silver are all excellent matches.
Top: Reverse layering rendered a green jumpsuit weather-appropriate during New York Fashion Week in February. A fur coat in a similar green was the perfect complement. Left: A thick olive green jumper and tie waist suede skirt paired with black accessories embodied effortless chic at the spring/ summer17 shows in New York.
Key Investments
Opt for sleek separates that can be
Chloé’s Hudson Bag in suede is a fantastic
Pair Victoria, Victoria Beckham’s
mixed and matched for seasons to
way to incorporate this hue into daywear,
sleeveless wooldrape top from Stylebop
come, such as Atlein’s draped jersey
wear across the body over a green knit for
with a tailored pencil skirt for the office
skirt from Net-A-Porter.
maximum effect.
or inky denim for after-hours chic.
At Etro, a high-shine, jade green velvet midi dress made a bold contrast against the collection’s heavily embellished dark outerwear. Black ankle boots and gold jewellery completed the look.
Etro
Ennio Capasa punctuated the extremely dark colour palette of his final collection for Costume National with shots of gleaming emerald green, breaking up the colour with a subtle underlying floral print.
GREEN ON GREEN
Rich shades of jewel tone green appeared across all four fashion capitals during the autumn/ winter16 shows. The key: Mix varying shades into one look.
Costume National
Defined Proportions
98 The corset was one of the most striking trends at the autumn/ winter16 shows. Designers presented daywear-appropriate versions with a sleek minimalist aesthetic.
Nicolas
Ghesquière
enhanced
Loewe
his
collection’s silhouettes at Louis Vuitton with wraparound patent leather tops in black, red and silver that fastened with an oversized belt buckle at the back.
Louis Vuitton
At Loewe, corsets sat on top of shirts and tops, cinching in waistlines. Form-fitting and rigid with deep V-necklines, the corsets created a stark, structured juxtaposition against the collection’s billowing skirts.
How to Wear This look can go in two directions. Wear over a form-fitting top and pair with a streamlined pencil skirt or cropped cigarette trousers for a more polished look. Or, toughen up a feminine silhouette such as a tiered ruffle dress or flowing jersey skirt. Stick to one or two accessories.
Top: A glittering corset top with keyhole detailing added a femme fatale edge to a romantic and feminine tiered lace dress during the spring/summer17 shows in New York. Right: Carine Roitfeld wore a leather wraparound-style corset over a black, sleeved shift dress in Paris, and broke up the all-black outfit with a gold amulet.
Key Investments
Select well-constructed tops with defined
Fleur du Mal’s leather bustier with a peplum
Alexander Wang’s cropped bustier vest top
seams and cups for a more bespoke fit,
frill is the ultimate statement piece, wear over
from Farfetch is a great weekend wardrobe
like Dion Lee’s stretch-ponte bustier top
a fitted white shirt during the day and with a
addition- layer over light knitwear with bold
from Net-A-Porter.
chunky metal necklace after dark.
stripes and distressed denim.
100 How to Wear It’s important not to interpret this trend too literally. Pick one or two key items like a patchwork suede skirt or a traditional leather cowboy jacket and modernise with colourful and unexpected accents, such as a pair of metallic Mary Janes or a lurex pencil skirt.
Top: Glittery silver boots and an exaggerated shoulder tee give this vintage-look patchwork leather skirt, seen at the New York spring/summer 17 shows, a fashion forward update. Left: Architectural python boots in burgundy along with colourful jewels and accessories picked up on the colours within this Western-style patchwork coat snapped at Milan Fashion Week.
Key Investments
Chloé’s python patchwork Faye Bag is
Diane von Furstenberg’s paisley print silk
Look for pieces that can be easily styled,
right on the money when it comes to this
scarf is an easy way to channel this trend.
like MiH Jeans’s suede mini. Pair with a
look. The bag’s neutral tones will work
Tie around the neck in bandit style or wrap
black turtleneck in cooler months or a
in well with almost any colour schemes.
loosely around the wrist.
white tee in the summer.
Mary Katrantzou cited childhood cowboys and old Americana as the inspiration behind her autumn/winter16 collection, which transpired into colourful shirt dresses emblazoned with playful arrows, stars and flames.
Mary Katrantzou
Proenza Schouler’s custom patchwork coats toting contrasting collars with inlayed rabbit fur gave off a distinct Western vibe, reinforced further by the leather belts fashioned into a harness across the chest.
URBAN COWGIRL
Chic prairie-style influences materialised into runway looks laden with super cool prints and patterns evoking a Wild West flair.
Proenza Schouler
Rule Britannia
102 Check and herringbone tweed in earthy greens and browns conjured up an air of rural regality across numerous runways.
3.1 Phillip Lim
Trussardi’s autumn/winter16 collection mixed tweed checks of varying size and texture in shades of grey, blue and brown. Suede and leather details and accessories were used to accentuate the looks.
Trussardi
American designer Phillip Lim added ladylike elements, such as tailored waistlines, to his masculine Prince of Wales check jackets, which he paired with contrasting houndstooth jogger-style trousers.
How to Wear Tweed makes a surprisingly versatile wardrobe staple. A pair of wide-legged herringbone culottes with a crisp pussy bow blouse looks sharp and refined in a nine-to-five setting, while a long-line tweed blazer coupled with dark denim jeans will keep an off-duty look polished.
Top: Metallic lace-up boots and ripped denim jeans lent urban appeal to a paneled tweed check coat during London Fashion Week. Right: Hot pink sandals brought a feminine touch and added an unexpected pop of colour to a pair of straight-legged check wool trousers in Milan.
Key Investments
Buy smart: look for items that can
Max Mara’s sleeveless vest from
Invest in items with an urban
be worn year round – especially
Stylebop will look just as good with a
edge that can be dressed up or
during the heat of the summer like
black wide legged trouser as it will with
down such as Red Valentino’s
Dolce&Gabbana’s tweed print heels.
dark skinny jeans.
studded tweed shorts.
104
M OJEH W o man
Fashion’s Quiet Force Words by Tim Blanks
Delphine Arnault, heiress to the LVMH empire, is championing a new generation of designers — and, shaping the future of the fashion industry in the process.
On considering the case of Delphine Arnault, I bow to the expert testimony of Alfred Hitchcock and Raymond Chandler, two witnesses whose submissions on behalf of The Blonde have ensured her unassailable position in the pantheon of cultural archetypes. Both Hitchcock and Chandler attributed the enduring mystery of The Blonde to the conflict she embodied between glacial surface and fiery depth. She’s a dramatic one. On a day that is distinctly humid outside the air-conditioned interior of the Paris headquarters of Louis Vuitton, Arnault explains her huge camel cashmere scarf by saying she’s always cold. So far, so Blonde. And, the scarf — an accessory to a sleek black sweater and pencil skirt (Vuitton, of course) — amplifies the no-hairout-of-place sophistication that Grace Kelly and Tippi Hedren made so effortlessly manifest. But, drama is anathema to Arnault. In conversation, her control is so precise and practiced that she yields almost nothing. And yet, even drawn in strokes that would be acceptable to her, her life would suggest there’s plenty of scope for the unexpected. She is the eldest child of Bernard Arnault, whose chairmanship of LVMH,
Images courtesy of Ian Gavan, Ulrich Knoblauch, Michel Dufour, Matteo Valle, Rindoff Petroff, Stuart C. Wilson and Rindoff/Dufour / Getty.
Left: Model prepares backstage at Wales Bonner autumn/winter 16 Bottom: Julia Jamin attends Repossi autumn/winter 16 presentation
Nicolas Ghesquière (left) and Delphine Arnault (center) at the Louis Vuitton show as part of the Paris Fashion Week
a restaurant. Today, she cites Sheryl Sandberg as another lodestone. So, perhaps, Arnault herself is subtly inclined to the maverick. Her marriage in 2005 was labelled the wedding of the year by the French media, but, given her own family’s nonpareil holdings in the wine and spirits industry, the union may have been a little dutiful. Taking up with Niel after her divorce seems more in tune with the character of the woman who tells me her favourite TV show is Breaking Bad, who was as enthused by Kirsten Dunst’s performance in Fargo as I was, and who picks the controversial Cannes sensation Blue Is the Warmest Colour as her favourite film. Arnault tells a story about her childhood, preLVMH, when her father moved the family to New York. Having grown up in northern France, she had no experience of English, but within three months, thanks to American cartoons, “my
Tim Blanks / The Times / The Interview People
brother, Antoine, and I were playing together the world’s largest luxury conglomerate, has
important. Bernard is, by all accounts, a dab
in English rather than French”. She was a quick
made him the 14th richest man on the planet,
hand on the piano. His second wife, Hélène
learner, which undoubtedly helped when the
according to Forbes. And Delphine, now 41 and
(he separated from Delphine’s mother, Anne
family returned to France in 1984, the year
executive vice-president of Louis Vuitton, is the
Dewavrin, in 1990), was an internationally
Bernard bought Dior. By then, Delphine was
heir apparent to a £31bn behemoth.
renowned concert pianist when they married in
nine, and she began, as she calls it, “growing
She is also expecting a second child with her
1991. Delphine felt so inadequate in the face
into this world of fashion”, with her father as
partner, Xavier Niel, who has been called France’s
of the rest of the family’s proficiency on the
mentor. “I didn’t go to shows at 10, but I went
Steve Jobs for his dominance of the country’s
piano, she stopped playing. “But, I was always
with him to the shops.” She also visited ateliers
technology industry (her first marriage, to the
quite good at school and I like studying,” she
with him, so from a young age she was aware
scion of an Italian wine and drinks dynasty, ended
says. “We didn’t really have a choice, actually.”
of the hard work behind the nice dresses she
in 2010). If her father is a wolf in immaculately
She is laughing when she adds: “We had to
saw in the shops. “I went upstairs at night,”
tailored cashmere clothing, the éminence grise
be good in school.”
she says cryptically.
of the global fashion industry, Niel is ruggedly
Fortunately, Arnault had a head for business.
That early intimacy with the mechanics of fashion
casual, with some classic ducking and diving
After graduating from the EDHEC Business
is one of the more intriguing elements of her story,
in his professional background. But, both men
School in Lille and the London School of
especially as those mechanics moved the family
have a razor-sharp maverick sensibility in their
Economics, she began her working life at the
business, which happened to grow alongside
business dealings. And, it’s a delicious irony
management consultancy McKinsey & Company.
her into the biggest fashion conglomerate in the
that Niel’s eclectic portfolio includes the rights
She joined the family business at 24, initially at
world. “I have four brothers [Bernard has three
to the song My Way. That’s the way he — and
John Galliano’s own label, then crossed over to
sons with Hélène, the youngest of whom is 17]
Bernard — have always done things.
Dior two years later, where she was deputy MD
and many of the 70 brands in the LVMH group
But, what was Delphine’s way? Growing up,
to Sidney Toledano. She moved to Louis Vuitton
are family businesses, so the family component
there was never a moment when she felt the
three years ago. Genes clearly had a lot to do
is really important. Also, I think you manage
urge to rebel. You get the sense that hers was
with it, but this is also the woman who was struck
companies better when you feel they are part of
a family that placed a premium on achievement.
dumb when she saw Jack Welch, the former
your family. When you look at the track record of
An education in the arts was deemed particularly
General Electric CEO and one of her heroes, in
family-owned businesses on the stock exchange,
106 Backstage at Marco De Vincenzo during Milan Fashion Week autumn/winter16
they perform better than businesses that are not owned by families.” Her daughter, Elisa, is now three. “It’s important to have a balance,” Arnault says of motherhood, “because if you have kids, you have to spend time with them and to raise them the best you can. But, I think it’s also important for kids to see their parents work. I mean, it’s life, no? It’s what most people do. So, for her to see me as an example is important.” That definitely sounds like a lesson from her father. “He has been patient with me and has trusted me a lot over the years,” she concedes. She has made her own additions to the professional ‘family’, too: JW Anderson, Marco de Vincenzo, Nicholas Kirkwood and Gaia Repossi have all signed to LVMH under her auspices, and she was instrumental in the hiring of Raf Simons to replace Galliano at Dior – which is a reminder that in every family, there are problem children. Galliano she won’t talk about. When Simons quit last October, he claimed time was of the essence to him: More time to create, more personal time. His unexpected departure had a seismic effect on the industry, and, given Arnault’s impermeable
Delphine was instrumental in the hiring of Raf Simons to replace Galliano at Dior
discretion, one can only conjecture about the impact it had internally at LVMH. She does,
Kim Jones, artistic director for menswear,
however, say this: “When you take the job at Dior,
and their teams, to making their collections
you know how many collections you’re going to
and implementing them commercially through
have to do. Then you also have an amazing team.
marketing and merchandising. More than once
And, there’s the link with the CEO. He’s very
in our conversation, Arnault remarks on her
close to his designer. I think that for a company
lack of artistic ability, which seems telling in a
to work well, you need to be very close to your
family whose patriarch has, according to his
designer. Each one has a specific role or different
eldest child, “a very developed right brain/left
tasks to do, but there needs to be a good
brain”, and who is as good at playing classical
communication between the two.” In fact, this
piano as he is at making deals. She isolates
is the very relationship she describes between
“problem-solving” as her own particular skill:
the president of Louis Vuitton, Michael Burke,
“Women do it all the time.” That’s not just
and the creative director, Nicolas Ghesquière,
maternal pragmatism on her part.
who designs the women’s collections.
Addressing the challenges of the fashion
Arnault’s own position puts her in charge
industry’s future led her to initiate the LVMH Prize
of everything to do with product, “from first
for Young Fashion Designers, a global talent
sketch until it arrives in the shop”, as she says,
search now in its third year, with a spectacular
which means following the entire process
award of AED 1,500,000 (£250,000) and a year
from design meetings with Ghesquière and
of coaching from a dedicated team within LVMH.
Peter Dundas, Delphine Arnault and Karl Lagerfeld at a fundraising dinner Held At L’Espace Cardin in Paris in aid of Rwandan children
A look from the J.W. Anderson show during London Fashion Week autumn/winter16
“What’s interesting about this process is that it’s open,” Arnault says. “You need to be between 18 and 40, but it’s open to any nationality. Basically, anyone who has a computer can apply.” This year, a panel of 41 international fashion experts selected 10 designers from a shortlist of 23, who were then judged by LVMH’s stable of superstar designers, plus Karl Lagerfeld. The prize went to Grace Wales Bonner, continuing a run of Londonbased winners, following Thomas Tait in 2015 and the design duo Marques’Almeida last year. “London shows how talent knows no frontiers,” Arnault observed after the announcement, “but also how education is paramount to the development of the next generation of designers.” That development is the problem the prize intends to solve. She is, unsurprisingly, humble about her own role. “I’m involved, in that we had the idea a few years ago to create a prize because we felt, as the leader of our industry, it was our responsibility to identify talent and to help it grow,” she says. “And then, we have people who are really specialists in identifying this young talent and who help us.” But, as far as that unassuming quality goes, Craig Green, a past nominee, remembers that when he made his 10-minute pitch to the jury, it was Arnault who registered as the quiet but forceful heart of the panel. Even the all-powerful Lagerfeld once remarked that you don’t say no to Arnault. That could well be his recognition of the fact that, one day, she will be the most powerful woman in fashion. Of course, there is still plenty of scope for the unexpected, but in exploring that, she will only be fulfilling her destiny. I rest my case for The Blonde.
108
TA L K ING P O I NT
In late July, the Mayor of Cannes banned the burkini on public beaches, calling them “the uniform of extremist Islamism”. Since then, more than 30 other French municipalities have followed suit. A Nice court finally suspended the swimwear ruling last month, following an appeal by the Human Rights League (LDH), after unsettling photographs emerged of women being fined and forced by police to disrobe in public. France is the first country to specifically ban burkinis, but similar disputes worldwide have underscored a disturbing reality: Society continues to unfairly dictate how a woman should dress, and this phenomenon is notably prevalent in the workplace. While we live in an era in which the implementation of a uniform is increasingly out of fashion, this has subsequently spawned even greater tension in the already ambiguous areas of office dress. Earlier this year, Britain was horrified by the news that Nicola Thorp, a temporary worker, had been sent home from her receptionist job for refusing to wear heels; a requirement imposed by the dress code at her staffing agency, Portico. In British law, a company isn’t allowed to insist that female employees wear heels, but it is legal to insist they look smart and professional. “I arrived as I would for any reception job, wearing formal work clothes and smart flat black shoes,” recalls Thorp. “I was told that I would not be able to work unless I went out to buy a pair of heels immediately, with my own money, as it was ‘company policy’ that all women wore high-heeled shoes”. She objected – arguing that a nine-hour shift in heels is both painful and unnecessary. After asking whether the company’s male employees were
Dress Code Defiance Dress codes are loosening up, but are chauvinistic office expectations still alive and well?
subject to the same dress code, she was laughed at and sent home without pay. Thorp defiantly took her cause public and started an online petition to make it illegal for employers to force women to wear heels to work – attracting over 150,000 signatures. “I don’t think an employer should have the right to tell an employee that they need to dress either ‘as a man’ or ‘as a woman’ at work.” Portico has since scrapped its outdated policy: Flat shoes are now acceptable for their women workers. The ‘Casual Friday’ movement of the late-Nineties was first born in the United States and – despite being a bland office perk at best – was quickly adopted and proved popular worldwide. In 1992, Levi’s publicly embraced the phenomenon and even sent out an eight-page brochure helpfully titled ‘A Guide to Casual Businesswear’ to 25,000 human resource managers across America. Nonetheless, the notion of a refined, yet comfortable, office dress code remains dangerously opaque – particularly for women. There are no concrete perimeters regarding the trend’s etiquette and companies that do establish these boundaries regularly discriminate women in the process. Many employees continue to feel compelled to wear
stereotypically feminine outfits – a curve-hugging dress, business jackets, and heels. Couturiers are often accused of ignoring the practicality of their designs, but more recently, they’ve reimagined a handful of functional workappropriate staples. After all, despite their many attempts to bring back the everyday heel, more women than ever opt for flats, whether they prefer Miu Miu’s velvet, buckled loafers or Louis Vuitton’s embossed sneakers. New York Fashion Week’s spring/summer17 runways certainly welcomed a new kind of soft-power tailoring; trousers and shirts were re-worked to redefine how modern office attire for women should look and feel. Even British Prime Minister Theresa May sported an asymmetric Palmer Harding white cotton shirt, black trousers and flat shoes, when she hosted her first London Fashion Week party at 10 Downing Street last month. Not long ago, it would have been impossible to conceive of a politician wearing anything so workcasual, and while some may think she looked underpowered, front rows are also adopting informal looks. Spindly heels and pinched waists are in decline as work attire becomes more about an individual’s personality, as well as utilitarian function.
Words by Annie Darling
Days after Thorp made headlines, viewers were
The best bags to tote to the office are polished and structured, but minimal. This oversized, vibrant leather clutch is modestly accented by its graphic colour
110 outraged again at what’s been referred to as ‘sweater-gate’: An American weather forecaster was handed a cardigan live on air to cover up the black cocktail dress she was wearing. The segment has gone viral and brings attention to the pervasive double standards women face in the workplace. Although men can feel obliged to wear a suit and tie, Thorp insists this is a false equivalence. A tweed waistcoat can feel uncomfortable, but it doesn’t inhibit a person’s ability to walk. Nor does it sexualise men in the same way a pencil skirt does a woman. “Womenswear has been designed with little thought to practicality and comfort.” Torence Rafiq, head of interactive media at TRIP Media, argues that dress codes help maintain a professional image, which is important because, “It’s an act of respect to the clients and professionals.” Formal apparel, he says, conveys dynamism and status – in short, company uniforms engage their target audience. “The science behind dressing to impress elicits feelings of empowerment; gearing up to conquer the day ahead…. A dress code instantaneously boosts self-esteem and confidence.” We undeniably form first impressions about people on the way they present themselves, but do women really have to wear a pair of stilettos or, by the same token, an ill-fitting grey suit to be taken seriously?
Whether a woman’s able to wear such trappings has nothing to do with her ability. “I applaud companies who have gotten rid of their strict formal dress codes in favour of allowing their employees to express individuality at work – provided that their attire is practical,” says Thorp. ‘Practicality’ is what’s important, here. Particularly because the precarious line separating work from our personal lives is becoming increasingly, and often frustratingly, blurred. Virgin Group founder Richard Branson has declared that suits and the humble necktie “no longer serve any useful purpose” for this very reason. Although a fundamental question remains: In an era in which work attire is increasingly open to the interpretation of the individual, why do women face harsher judgments? Thorp believes that the decline of uniform and its subsequent dilemmas are effects of gender equality. “As we break through gender boundaries, there is very little need for gender specific uniforms. We live in a world where individuality is celebrated and I think uniform requirements need to reflect that.” But there are, of course, complications. One person’s ‘appropriate’ can easily be another’s ‘indecorous’, while a term like ‘professional’ seems so vague that it’s almost meaningless. Was Kanye West sufficiently formal in ripped stonewashed jeans and a bejewelled Balmain bomber jacket at this year’s Met Gala? Did America’s sweetheart Julia Roberts cross a line when she sported bare feet at the premiere of Money Monster at the Cannes Film Festival? One thing’s for sure, plimsolls are being worn under everything from pinstriped suits to bridal gowns. Quirky variations of schoolgirl, military and nurse uniforms are currently on display at the Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT) in New
Adhering to straightforward combinations allows for effortless executive chic. Wear a fun and extravagant coat with a lavish faux fur collar to inject a splash of personality into your daily workwear
York’s latest exhibition, ‘Uniformity’. Open until November 19, this immersive showcase examines our changing relationship with uniforms as markers of authority and servitude. This interplay proves fascinating because traditionally, dress codes have symbolised control and authority, whereas fashion is
READY WHENEVER, WHEREVER, photographed by Myro Wulff, MOJEH Issue 21
predominantly about self-expression and creativity. “The way one dresses should be open to the
seen as commodities. These outdated guidelines
interpretation of the individual, but I do respect that
perpetuate and reaffirm gender stereotypes that
some companies will have specific requirements of
are predominantly damaging to women. We’re
their staff for practical reasons, and also because
encouraged and, in Thorp’s case, essentially forced
of the aesthetic they want to create within their
to embrace primitive views on femininity. The only
business,” concedes Thorp, and Rafiq agrees. “At
alternative is to match our male counterparts: Dreary
TRIP Media, no action is taken against employees
blazers and neutral tones reign supreme.
who dress down and we do keep Thursdays casual.
The crux of this issue is that society’s perception
There are no gender stereotypes and men as well as
about what constitutes a smart and professional
women are free to wear whatever they please, just
woman continues to fall into two chauvinistic
as long as it is suitable for a formal environment.”
categories: The seductive secretary and the butch
While Thorp agrees that dress codes are beneficial
businesswoman. Dress codes are also evidence
as long as they do “not make different requirements
that despite various advancements we’ve made
according to a protected characteristic, such as
in the workplace over the last century, large
religion, sexuality, race or gender”, dress codes serve
sectors of society still have reservations on why
as a reminder of the grim reality that women are still
we’re even there. Is it to work, or be gawped at?
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Tal k ing P o i nt
Babies Words by Mary Keenan
Designer childrenswear has rapidly come to represent billions within the world of luxury retail. As these figures continue to soar, MOJEH asks: Are we spending too much on our children’s wardrobes?
the Global Industry Almanac indicate that the international childrenswear market is expected to reach just over a sensational AED 1 trillion by the end of 2018. Although children’s apparel only accounts for 12 per cent of the overall global clothing market at the moment, it has outpaced both menswear and womenswear over the last five years in terms of growth, expanding by six per cent in 2015, compared to the men’s and women’s market, which grew by 4 per cent each. There are a number of key factors driving this growth. Research shows that across the globe, the birth rate is on the increase – particularly in the United Kingdom and United States. And, perhaps more significantly, the demographics pertaining to parenthood are changing. In the Western world, more and more people are having children later on in life, choosing instead to prioritise building a career and establishing themselves professionally, which results in a significantly higher disposable income when they do eventually decide to start a family. In the emerging Asian markets, aspirational consumption sees parents spending thousands on their offsprings’ wardrobes – so much so that in China, where spending power continues to rise, the term ‘Little Emperor Syndrome’ has been coined to describe the behaviour of
During Elie Saab’s glitteringly brilliant
officially offer childrenswear as part of
Chinese parents under the government’s
autumn/winter16 couture show held in
its couture line, the outfits presented at
one-child policy, who lavish excessive
Paris in July, models took to the runway
couture week were in acknowledgement of
amounts of attention and money on only
in the beautiful and elegant designs that
the large volume of customers that have
children. Meanwhile, here in the GCC,
have made the Lebanese couturier a
been requesting children’s versions of the
20 per cent of the region’s population is
household name. While the models and
Lebanese couturier’s gowns.
between the ages of zero and 14-years-old
exquisite gowns undoubtedly attracted
The luxury childrenswear market is big
– little wonder then that childrenswear has
plenty of attention, it was, in fact, the
business. Experiencing unprecedented
become the fastest growing category within the
eight little girls, trotting down the runway
growth over the past five years, figures
apparel and footwear markets here.
in their very own miniature versions of
released by Euromonitor indicate that
Another significant driver is the global
some of the collection’s pieces, that had
sales in the global children’s market
phenomenon that is celebrity children. The
the audience swooning in their seats.
amounted to AED 559.6 billion in 2015,
world’s obsession with celebrity culture
Post show, a spokesperson for the house
which was a solid growth on the AED 503.9
has catapulted celebrity offspring to
explained that while the brand is yet to
billion worth of sales recorded in 2010.
fashion icon status from a very young age.
Images courtesy of Gucci and Burberry. Getty, photographers Robert Kamau, Kevin Mazur, Gisela Schober
Billion Dollar
Further to this, statistics published by
One of the showstoppping mini-me gowns at the Elie Saab a/w couture16 show
114 Karl Lagerfeld’s godson walks the runway during the Chanel Métiers d’Art 2014 collection in Salzburg
A mini-me outfit from the Gucci Kids collection
The hype and widespread media coverage surrounding the sartorial choices of the likes of Suri Cruise, Shiloh Jolie-Pitt and Blue Ivy Carter, not to mention North West and her custom Givenchy, has sent many parents and their children scrambling to try and emulate their high-end designer wardrobes, if not replicate them entirely. Another prime example of celebrity culture as an influence is Prince George – almost all of the ensembles worn by the young royal during public appearances have sold out within 24 hours of him being photographed wearing them. His reign of influence has not gone unnoticed, with Forbes dubbing him the world’s most influential toddler on the eve of his first birthday last year. Mini-me dressing has also come to play a large part in the booming childrenswear market. This has largely been pioneered by Kim Kardashian West, who almost broke the Internet recently with pictures of herself and daughter North in matching sequined Vetements gowns, as well as Beyoncé, whose Instagram slideshow with daughter Blue Ivy, in coordinating Gucci looks, garnered an incredible 9.1 million views. This has a knock-on effect when it comes to retail sales, with mothers everywhere snapping up the children’s ve r si on s o f d es ig ne r rea dy -t o- we a r runway looks. Candice Fargis, buying
and merchandising director at Farfetch, explains, “Customers love the ‘mini-me’ factor when purchasing kidswear. Pieces that their child can wear that are of a matching style, quality and design as a brand’s womenswear ready-to-wear line have been most popular. For example, we sold out of both the kids and adult styles of the lemon print Dolce&Gabbana dresses and bikinis. Nowadays, the allure of capturing that perfect Insta-moment is perhaps enough for some shoppers; hence, the popularity of our mini-me kidswear styles and brands.” Fargis isn’t the only one with this sentiment. Luxury e-tailer Melijoe has an entire section of its website devoted to mini-me outfits, with the corresponding adult runway look displayed alongside each garment. This in turn correlates directly to parents’ own spending habits, with a consumer’s brand loyalty having an impact on what they decide to buy for their children. “It makes sense that customers, who might be willing to spend money on luxury labels for themselves, may also favour the same for their children,” reasons Candice. It’s also integral for companies to futureproof themselves by engaging younger consumers and establishing brand loyalty from an early age. Brands are extremely aware of this, with houses such as Balmain, Dolce&Gabbana, Lanvin, Marc
Above: The Burberry Kids collection. Below: Kim Kardashian West and daughter North wearing Vetements in New York. Beyonce and Blue Ivy Carter attend the MTV Video Music Awards
Jacobs, Stella McCartney, Fendi and Gucci all foraying into childrenswear in recent years. Burberry has been quick to profit
Youssef, general manager of Level Kids,
from its childrenswear line, with sales
the reason for the colossal growth of
across their children’s division growing
luxury childrenswear can be attributed
15 per cent in 2015, which was faster than
to “the rise of social media, influence of
any other division within the company.
celebrities and increasing popularity of the
Childrenswear now makes up AED 441.9
‘mini-me’ look, which has seen children’s
million, 4 per cent of the British heritage
clothing evolve into trend-led products.
brand’s overall revenue.
Kids now have a say in their styling, as
Retailers and e-tailers have been taking
well as a desire to dress like their favourite
note. Hallowed department store Harrods
celebrity”. The store’s price points range
expanded its childrenswear department
from entry-level sleep suits at AED 200 to
to encompass 66,000 square feet earlier
couture exclusives at AED 25,000.
in the year, luxury online marketplace
A s l u x u r y c h i l d re n s w e a r b e g i n s t o
Farfetch launched a childrenswear division
transform the retail and e-commerce
in March, and Net-A-Porter, forever with
landscape, will the gains made by the
their finger on the pulse, registered the
childrenswear market come to surpass
domain name petite-a-porter.com in
that of both men’s and womenswear,
2013. The regional retail market here
causing designers to shift their focus to the
has been paying attention, too. Concept
next generation? Are children’s clothes set to
store Level Kids launched in June and
become the main feature on fashion capital
offers the discer ning Middle Easter n
catwalks; and, if so, will fashion’s front row
shopper a selection of over 200 high-end
be filled with trendsetting tots and glamorous
designer footwear and apparel brands,
little girls? If that’s what the future holds,
spread over three stories in Dubai’s City
we can only hope that each collection will
Walk development. According to Miral
come with some matching adult-sized looks.
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Metal Work
se a s o n al s ty le
Jil Sander
From rust gold to burnt lilac, autumnal hues take on a brazen disposition for the more momentous events in our October calendars. Mix your metallics for a bold but striking approach to this season’s style.
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2 1
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5 6
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1. GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI | 2. CHRISTIAN DIOR | 3. CHRISTOPHER KANE @net-a-porter.com | 4. Dsquared2 | 5. ALEXANDER MCQUEEN | 6. SAINT LAURENT | 7. ROGER VIVIER | 8. M MISSONI
Business Class
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Bottega Veneta
Take on your working week with immaculate tailoring and a nonchalant attitude. Blazers get longer this season, while accessories reveal artisan detail. Trial a monochrome palette for classic sophistication and a feathered bag for a small sartorial twist.
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1 4
5 7 6
1. SANTONI | 2. ROGER VIVIER | 3. PARMIGIANI FLEURIER | 4. DIANE VON FURSTENBERG | 5. STUART WEITZMAN | 6. MESSIKA JOAILLERIE | 7. ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
Words by Laura Beaney
As Fendi bag monsters and Anya’s stickers stay by our side for the new season, we examine fashion’s obsession with all things cute.
Main Image, A Simple Distraction, photographed by Riccardo Vimercati, MOJEH Issue 11. Additional images courtesy of Coach and Getty photographers, Melodie Jeng, Georgie Wileman and John Phillips
The Cult of
120 Fa sh i o n F eatur e
122
SuperMoschino Mario Brothers collection, more recently we have seen the likes of Jeremy Scott championing Barbie’s lurid pink dress code for his spring/summer15 collection, while style leaders fawned over Givenchy’s dark rendition of Bambi for the now iconic autumn/winter13 print. And today, Anya Hindmarch’s autumn/ winter16 collection includes shearling golden ghost bags inspired by Pac-Man, that can be customised like a school pencil case with the brand’s ubiquitous sticker selection. Where does fashion’s obsession with the infantile stem from? There are, of course, cultures that have been celebrating cute for a long time. If we look to Japan, for example, trends towards cute – or Kawaii – amongst adults are deeply ingrained within the society, spilling out in areas from the pastel, saccharine street style, to the heart-dotted handwriting, and in subtle details like the popular black, glazy contact lenses that appear to widen the eyes. “Japan has led the way with a particularly developed and extensive cute mode, which has been evolving and diversifying since the Eighties,” explains Dr Sharon Kinsella, professor at The University of Manchester and author of Cuties in Japan. Givenchy’s a/w13 collection saw juxtaposition between Disney innocence and the darker directions associated with the brand
And, in turn, Japan’s penchant for all things super sweet has influenced US, European and other Asian aesthetics in fashion. “We opened the Kawaii online pop-up shop a couple of years
Moschino Ready to Bear a/w15
Rucksacks dotted with pixelated space
ago,” says Zayan Ghandour, founder of
invaders, rounded rubber French bulldogs
Middle Eastern retailer, S*uce. “A lot of
that protect an iPhone 6 and jewel-eyed
people didn’t know the term at the start,
charms in soft pink mink – while this
whereas now I think it’s really coming
may appear to be the contents of an
up a lot in mainstream pop culture,” she
inflated infant’s wardrobe, in reality, it’s
continues. Kawaii’s hyper colours and
a snapshot of the high fashion must-haves
cartoons loaded with Japanese cultural
from Anya Hindmarch, Marc Jacobs and
references might seem an odd fit for
Fendi that have set a playful tone for the
the sometimes-austere nature of the
past few seasons.
Middle East, but Ghandour credits the
But, this fun phenomenon isn’t a new
popularity of her pop-up – that included
one. For decades, designers from Tom
bunny-eared baseball caps and Coca-
Ford to Kenzo and Bernhard Willhelm
Cola handbags – with the light-hearted
have weaved child-like cartoons and
nature of her audience. “As we grow older,
pop culture references into their designs,
sometimes we learn to appreciate the fun
both subverting and reinforcing the initial
and frivolous side of fashion and can take
sentiments. Known for his nod to nostalgia
ourselves less seriously,” she enthuses.
with designs featuring SpongeBob
But, as with any cultural movement, the
SquarePants, the Powerpuff Girls, and the
causes for the Kawaii’s origins in Japan
Russian designer, Vika Gazinskaya wears a Donald Duck sweater during Paris Haute Couture Week s/s16
Anya Hindmarch All Over Stickers a/w16
are vast and complex. In the past,
innocence and naivety through fashion,
Kinsella named gender relations as a key
creating a state of freedom that would
motivator, with females adopting a cute
not usually be present. And,while the
dress code and subservient mannerisms
Japanese stereotype of working women
as a form of male appeasement. “Most
sporting dust masks adorned with bunnies
obviously, cute would be associated with
or the young adults dressed as Pokemon
a kind of feminine conformism, acting the
characters in Harajuku is all too familiar, and
way men/a masculine order might want
a little far removed from the diluted cute
them to act and look,” she says. Kawaii
trends observed outside of Asia, there are
has, however, taken on a new tone in
certain social triggers that translate across
recent years, and is now viewed as more
borders. “Younger generations are infantilised
of a statement of female empowerment
and feel vulnerable or like children, and this
and a counter-movement to the otherwise
is expressed in style,” Kinsella continues.
cold and corporate mainstream.
In the US and Europe, for example, a Yoji
If we observe Japan’s largely middle class,
Yamamoto x Hello Kitty navy cardigan,
homogenous society, we can see that the
embellished with the Sanrio kitten, could easily
young adults are empowering themselves
weave its way into a workplace wardrobe.
and rebelling against the norm by actively
“We really need one or several superheroes
choosing to maintain a state of child-like
to lead the world in a positive direction,”
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Moschino Car Wash Couture s/s16
Tapping into our desire for want over need, Fendi’s cute Bag Bugs have remained a style staple since a/w13
muses Geraldine Wharry, a future trends
whimsical design comes from society’s
forecaster, who has worked with major
need to escape from the serious global
brands including WGSN. Pointing to
issues,” notes Wharry. “And, fashion is
our world of paradox that sees a strong
about escapism, theatricality and self-
movement against inequalities such as
expression,” she says. Indeed, drama
racial, gender and sexual biases, there
and subversion are the fundamentals
is also a conflicting sense of unease as
of fashion and, of course, designers
terrorism, gun crime and openly racist
have translated this into the cute trend.
political leaders gain traction amongst the
Take the Givenchy Bambi print. A far cry
public. “There is a lot of uncertainty. And,
from Moschino’s easy, breezy, kitsch
it makes sense that in contrast, people
adaptations of childhood favourites, the
would want to wear bright colours and
combination of the Disney deer juxtaposed
fun graphics representing their favourite
with a dark oil painting relays Riccardo
superheroes or emojis,” continues Wharry.
Tisci’s obsession with Americana and
The Twenties saw a similar reaction
pop culture, infused with the sharp,
when, during the Great Depression,
dark undertone that the brand typically
clothing styles leaned towards glitter,
proposes. While the official ideology
opulence and the theatre, with flapper
behind the print is unclear and fashion,
dresses and ornate headdresses reigning
like art, is fair game for interpretation, one
supreme amidst the period of mass
might read that the two opposing images
poverty. “The strength of this interest in
project a mood of sexualised innocence.
While collections like Anya Hindmarch’s offer a fun foray into childhood hours devoted to Pac-Man, science says that our bond with cuteness goes deeper than this. Known as ‘baby schema’, ethologist Konrad Lorenz proposed that infantile features such as a large head, round face and big eyes, are perceived to be cute and this motivates maternal and caretaking behaviour. Cuteness also triggers a release of dopamine in our brains, thus stimulating our sense of pleasure. Interestingly, this reaction is also applicable to animals and inanimate objects like our Fendi bag monsters – fashion continues to tap into this deeprooted connection, season after season. From boho to military and florals, while most trends move in cycles, some are perennial, and cute is now a part of the larger popular culture cycle that returns in a slightly different guise each season. “Emojis and video games have become ubiquitous, with everyday virtual reality being the next frontier,” says Wharry. And, as our uptake of digital mediums increase, we have the Internet and social media to thank for the spread of cute trends. Moschino’s mirrored Barbie phone case is, in fact, the perfect tool to check your appearance before partaking in the current craze for selfies. The product was available to buy immediately after the brand’s spring/summer15 show, thus spreading the sentiment of the rest of the
From stitching mice to glass slippers, Dolce&Gabbana’s a/w16 collection brought Disney into the realm of adults
collection before it hit the shelves. While trends tend to veer from one end
Disney x Coach summer16
of the spectrum to the other, with the
we sleep away from our parents, and for
clean minimalism championed at Céline
the luxury consumer today, there is an
and Alexander Wang falling in and out of
equal desire for reassurance against life’s
favour, Wharry believes that the warmth
uncertainties that can be appeased, in
and nostalgia associated with cute gives
part, by the interplay between fashion
the trend longevity. “The designers who
and fantasy. As with many elements of
make our fashion landscape grew up with
fashion, cute trends serve a two-fold
video games and superheroes,” she says.
purpose and filling an emotional need
“Franchises such as Marvel Comics and
is ultimately when this trend comes into
DC are stronger than ever and impacting
its own. Our adoration of cute can be
the future generations as well. So, I think
read in many ways, whether as a form
this trend has legs.” From Sixties-inspired
of escapism, rebellion, appeasement, a
pop-art trends to the Spiderman comic
vehicle for political messages or simply
that inspired a Jean Paul Gaultier dress,
a way to feel young. And, as Ghandour
there will always be a want and need to
points out, “There’s something incredibly
escape to a simpler or sweeter existence.
endearing about all things soft, cute
As children, we are offered teddy bears
and pretty. Besides, who can say no to
as a symbol of comfort and security while
candy floss pink and volumes of tulle?”
Autumn’s
Opulence Skin bears the stamp of the season. Teased through tight-knit lace, seductively veiled in sheer black or revealed in the depth of the cut. Fine jewellery oscillates between polished pearls and deep hued jewels as tone turns to richer designs.
Photographed by Anthony Arquier Styled by Camille Josephine Teisseire
Quetzal ear cuffs, white gold, black lacquer, set with diamonds, CARTIER | Dress, SAINT LAURENT
128
Incantation ring, platinum, set with one 22.84-carat cushion-shaped sapphire from Ceylon and diamonds, CARTIER | Top, MARC JACOBS
Mandragore necklace, white gold, set with two green beryls totalling 79.38 carats, one 4.61-carat cushionshaped blue-green sapphire, chrysoberyl, tsavorite garnets and diamonds, CARTIER | Coat, CÉLINE
130
Magie Blanche necklace, platinum, set with one 20.09-carat type IIa pear-shaped diamond, natural pearls and diamonds, CARTIER | Dress, ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER
Incantation necklace, platinum, set with diamonds, CARTIER | Top, ELIE SAAB
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Oracle necklace, platinum, set with three emeralds from Colombia totalling 18.30 carats, onyx and diamonds, CARTIER | Dress, VALENTINO
Quetzal necklace, white gold, black lacquer, set with one 68.82-carat rubellite and diamonds, CARTIER | Dress, LANVIN
Model: Mariana Coldebella at Premium Makeup Artist: Cyril Laine Hair Stylist: Fabrice Parra by Phyto Manicurist: Angie Moulin Production: Louis Agency
134
Red tweed cashmere pullover, red tweed cashmere skirt, dark brown calfskin high boots, dark red cashmere accessories, golden and white metal necklace, CHANEL
Golden Hour The technical tweeds, slender, artisanal knits and elevated embellishments associated with Chanel are punctuated with legions of gleaming pearls that recall Coco herself. A signal to the relaxed sentiment of the streets, quilted jackets and slouchy flat boots are dressed up with a palette of muted gold.
Photographed by Rocio Ramos Styled by Alba Melendo
136
Black lambskin jacket, black calfskin flapbag, black lambskin boater, CHANEL
Grey, ecru and gold fantasy tweed coat, golden, brown and white metal necklace, gold metallized kangaroo high boots, gold metallised boater, CHANEL
138
Red tweed cashmere pullover, red tweed cashmere skirt, dark red cashmere accessories, golden and white metal necklace, CHANEL
Charcoal stretch tulle dress, black lambskin boater, black lambskin gloves, black velvet high boots, CHANEL
140
Gold crumpled calfskin skirt, black cashmere pullover, gold calfskin brooch black lambskin gloves, golden and white metal necklace, crystal and black metal necklace, black grosgrain moccasin, black lambskin boater, CHANEL
142
Beige and camel fantasy tweed coat, CHANEL
Black and navy iridescent tweed coat, black tweed and lambskin boater, golden and white metal necklace, black grosgrain mocassins, CHANEL
144
Camel fantasy tweed dress, camel and black fantasy tweed and lambskin boater, beige metal necklace, dark brown calfskin high boots, gold calfskin brooch, CHANEL
Model: Carolina Thaler at Next Models Management Paris Fashion Collaborator: Maki Kimura Hair Stylist: Yumiko Hikage Makeup Artist: Alexandra Leforestier Production: Louis Agency
146
Black Widow Our dark desires surface as blacks bewitch our eveningwear. Let light shine through layered sheers or cover in clandestine frills and folds with a nod to the Victoriana.
Photographed by Anthony Arquier Styled by Gemma Bedini
Dress, KENZO | Boots, VALENTINO | Ring, ELIE SAAB
148
Dress, STELLA MCCARTNEY | Clutch, SAINT LAURENT | Boots, VALENTINO | Ring, ELIE SAAB
Dress, VIONNET | Boots, VALENTINO
Dress and boots, VALENTINO | Choker and earrings, ELIE SAAB
Dresses and shoes, CÉLINE | Skirt, ELLERY | Trousers, VALENTINO | Ring, JENNIFER FISHER
152
Dress and bag, ELIE SAAB | Boots, VALENTINO
Dress, FENDI
Dress, FENDI | Necklace and ring, JENNIFER FISHER
156
Dress, FENDI | Boots, VALENTINO | Necklace and ring, JENNIFER FISHER
Dress, ERMANNO SCERVINO
Dress and veil, DOLCE&GABBANA
Dress, ROCHAS | Shoes and ring, CHRISTIAN DIOR
Model: Ilse de Boer at IMG Models Hair and Makeup Artist: Cyril Laine Production: Louis Agency
160
Dress, MAISON MARGIELA | Earrings, CÉLINE
Melancholy A strong shift towards previous Seventies glory, pallets of vanilla, beige and brown are juxtaposed with iridescent purple and mustard yellow. As if taken from the wardrobe of Anderson’s heroines, vintage-style pieces are reimagined with contemporary cuts.
Photographed by Pelle Lannefors Styled by Anna Klein
162
Dress, CHRISTIAN DIOR | Boots, MAISON MARGIELA
164
Dress, MAISON MARGIELA
Blazer and trousers, MAISON MARGIELA | Jacket, CHRISTIAN DIOR
166
Jacket, SAINT LAURENT | Trousers and boots, MAISON MARGIELA
Coat, CHRISTIAN WIJNANTS | Coat, KOCHÉ | Trousers, CHRISTIAN WIJNANTS | Stockings, WOLFORD | Boots, MAISON MARGIELA
168
Blazer, KOCHÉ | Top, CHRISTIAN WIJNANTS | Skirt, CHRISTIAN DIOR | Earrings, CÉLINE
Top, CÉLINE
170
Top and earrings, CÉLINE
Top, shirt, trousers, shoes and earrings, CÉLINE
172
Shirt and trousers, KENZO | Boots, MAISON MARGIELA | Earrings, CÉLINE
Model: Genevieve Welsh at The Face Paris Makeup Artist: Mayumi Oda at Calliste Hair Stylist: Andre Cueto Saavedra at Saint Germain Photographer’s Assistant: Elodie Saiz Stylist’s Assistant: Dominyka Angelyte Videographer (film on MOJEH.com): Nicolas Di Vincenzo Video Director: Pelle Lannefors at Moon Mgmt Video Editor: Gregory Hoepffner Video Music: Almeeva Editor: Kelly Baldwin
Archi Dior ring, My Dior bracelets, DIOR FINE JEWELLERY La D De Dior Satine watch, DIOR TIMEPIECES
Stone Cold Our everyday wear takes a captivating turn as fine jewellery trends reveal a seductive slither of silver. Layer fine chains for delicate decadence or balance a bare neckline with bold, hoop earrings.
Photographed by LENY GUETTA Styled by TATIANA DUMABIN
Archi Dior earrings, DIOR FINE JEWELLERY
Rose Des Vents necklaces, DIOR FINE JEWELLERY La D De Dior Satine watch, DIOR TIMEPIECES
Rose Des Vents rings, DIOR FINE JEWELLERY
Archi Dior necklace, DIOR FINE JEWELLERY
My Dior earrings, DIOR FINE JEWELLERY
Archi Dior earrings, DIOR FINE JEWELLERY
Nougat ring and earrings, DIOR FINE JEWELLERY
Model: Sofya Titova at Next Model Photographer’s Assistant: Elodie Martial Stylist’s Assistants: Marvin Latournald & Francesco Spadaro Makeup Artist: Lamia Bernad Hair Stylist: Yumiko Hikage at N Management Production: Louis Agency
184
Wat c h N otes
Horology
Gone Wild Always decadent, sometimes predatory and firmly on trend – why animal motifs have survived the vicissitudes of time.
Words by Annie Darling
Left to right: Millenary ‘Zebra’ watch, AUDEMARS PIGUET | Panthères et Colibri watch, Eric Maillet © CARTIER | Panthère Mystérieuse pendant, Vincent Wulveryck © CARTIER
When British archaeologists Howard Carter and George Herbert prised open King Tutankhamun’s stone sarcophagus in 1922, they discovered swathes of leopard hide as well as ornate faux skins, crafted from handsomely woven linen and strewn with appliquéd stars. Three millennia after the Egyptian pharaoh’s demise, printed pelts and animal motifs remain a constant high fashion staple, having enjoyed longevity among even the most captious watch connoisseurs. The wristwatch is undoubtedly one of the greatest creations of mankind: It’s something we continue to cherish and improve on, despite there being much more accurate and inexpensive ways of getting the time of day. So, why has the animal kingdom become a key element of the timepiece and why is its popularity universal? “Animal prints stay in fashion because we love animals,” explains cultural historian Jo Weldon. For three decades, she has studied why people wear clothes made of leopard patterns. “We have a response to animal patterns that goes beyond the dictates of magazine editors. Seeing these prints can dilate our pupils and make our hearts beat just a little faster. We have a connection with them through the best parts of our nature, which relates to spontaneity and honesty.”
186 Designers have also embraced fashion’s newly maximalist tendencies, and quirkier animal patterns are stalking runways from Prada to Givenchy. Gucci’s Alessandro Michele, Dries Van Noten and Bottega Veneta’s Tomas Maier are among those who have embellished their autumn/winter16 catwalks with zebra stripes and peculiar-looking birds. For years, animal motifs have also been an ingenious and powerful way for women to tweak traditionally male uniforms. Patterns and prints can be employed to add an element of influence and feminine ferocity, while keeping within a traditional framework. Weldon further argues that animal print is used to attract attention, as well as exude Above: Attrape-moi… sit u m’aimes watches with various exceptional dials, CHAUMET Below: Ajourée Hirunda Jewellery Watch, BOUCHERON
influence. “We associate animals with power, freedom, nature, and fun. Some see leopard print as dangerous and predatory, but for most who choose it, it simply means that we enjoy being seen and that we are not prey.” Pierre Rainero, style director and head of heritage at Cartier, agrees. “It’s an incredible source of inspiration because it’s such a rich symbol,” he reveals of Cartier’s iconic panther emblem. “It’s very rich in terms of aesthetic, but it goes beyond that – the panther is highly synonymous with certain values that are shared, such as elegance, independence and in some ways, strength.” There
are
more
practical
lines
of reasoning behind this trend’s universality, too. Horology has woven itself tightly into our history, so much so that we often take it for granted. The creation of today’s wristwatch involves a laborious 500-year journey and when it comes to style, time is of the essence. Animal-themed dials are a decorative craze that revamps a timeless classic. In the last decade, luxury labels have advanced their designs so that they encompass more complex motifs. This slew of stylish new options are more about “cuteness and traditional femininity”, says Rainero, rather than power and dominance. Weldon adds: “The cubs of great cats such as pumas and lions are all spotted, and there’s a relation to the idea of being playful with the potential to grow strong.” Cartier has released various extraordinary panther-inspired timepieces, smothered in diamonds and sapphires. The Panthère
Lady Arpels Cardinal Carmin, Chez Voltaire/ Aurore Colibert © VAN CLEEF & ARPELS
Mystérieuse pendant is a particularly lovely design, heavy with white gold, agate, onyx and emerald. Alternatively, the Ballon Bleu de Cartier has a sparkling 18-carat yellow gold casing with 124 brilliant-cut diamonds, set with a sapphire cabochon and an enamel granulation. For centuries, Chaumet has also dedicated its jewellery excellence to the creation of some truly exceptional
popular on the runway, as well as on our
bestial motif timepieces. A bold decision,
wrists, this trend’s true significance calls
considering this is a craft that requires
to mind a more ancient and timeworn
the steady hand of a surgeon, the
association. For the Egyptians, leopard
patience of a heroine and the mind of a
spots represented regeneration and
mechanical engineer. Chaumet’s show-
rebirth in the afterlife. Napoleon’s troops
stopping creations boast magnificent
trimmed their helmets and saddle covers
dials that express a different dimension
in pelts before battle in an attempt to strike
of time, movement and emotion, while
fear into the hearts of their adversaries.
natural settings are meticulously
Circus strongmen and macho actors
constructed using painted sapphire
playing Tarzan or other muscular cave
glass. Emerald-green hand-polished
dwellers have typically sported skimpy
leaves and miniaturised forest scenes
tiger garments. Perhaps the reason
are decorated with ruby-red dragonflies
behind a woman’s desire for an animal
and mother-of-pearl butterfly wings.
motif signals a turning of the tide; a new
While animal print continues to prove
dawn or, at the very least, a new power.
188
M OJEH I nter v i e w
Five Minutes With Jewellery Designer
Suzanne Kalan
Interview by Laura Beaney. Images courtesy of Suzanne Kalan
Offering a colourful and dramatic approach to forward-thinking pieces, cutting a new shape in the face of contemporary jewellery is nothing new for trend leader and LA-based designer, Suzanne Kalan.
Who is the Suzanne Kalan woman?
Early on, I only designed jewellery for my sister and myself. A
It’s almost impossible to describe the women who buy and
request from a retail store turned my hobby into a business.
wear my creations. I have had the pleasure of meeting so
My family and husband really pushed and encouraged me
many of my customers around the world, and they are all so
to launch my own company. Five years ago, my daughter,
special in their own way. One thing they all have in common
Patile, joined and designed the KALAN By Suzanne Kalan
is their appreciation for something unique.
collection. The collection is set in 14-karat gold and features an array of handpicked precious and semi-precious stones
Your designs, like the Firework collection, present the
with accents of diamonds.
diamond in a completely new and unusual context. What inspired you to break up and scatter the precious stone?
Your bridal collections defy wedding jewellery
Though I am well versed in traditional techniques of fine
conventions. Why should we look towards these instead
jewellery design, I am always looking to find a variation
of traditional rings?
that is interesting and unique. I love baguette diamonds
My alternative bridal collection features my signature use
and my designs often play with the idea of symmetrical
of baguette diamonds with seemingly scattered settings.
and asymmetrical proportions. I was really intrigued to use
Many of the pieces in the collection are one-of-a-kind,
baguette diamonds in an unconventional way, and the design
so the engagement rings are really meant for a one-of-
has become one of my most popular.
a-kind bride.
You lead the trend for stacking high jewels; why do you
Coloured stones are very popular at the moment – do you
think this way of wearing jewellery remains so popular?
think they will ever replace the diamond as a woman’s
You know what they say, ‘more is more’! I see stacking and
object of desire?
layering jewellery as more of an art. You have to build your
I love using coloured gemstones in my designs, especially
personal collection, and pair the right pieces for your overall
topaz, amethyst and quartz. Coloured stones may add to
look. Our collection has a lot of great standalone pieces,
a piece of jewellery, but they’ll never replace diamonds.
but it’s always nice to stack our bangles and layer some of our delicate necklaces.
Which key pieces accompany you wherever you go? I never leave my house without a nice stack of my baguette
Suzanne Kalan has become somewhat a family affair –
diamond bangles and a new ring I just designed as part of
what is it like mixing business and family?
my One and Only collection.
190
Words by Sophie Pasztor
HIGH NOTES
Calvin Klein
1
2 Checkmate
Jewellers opt for clean lines and symmetrical patterns as one of autumn’s biggest trends – plaid – paves its way into fine jewellery. Criss-cross designs that mimic plaid stay refined with structured frameworks and fewer embellishments. Look to designs that have clean construction, like Nada G’s rings, for understated elegance. 1. BVLGARI | 2. NADA G | 3. ANTONINI | 4. PIAGET | 5. CHANEL
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4 5
192
Antonio Berardi
1 2 Curtain Call Add a touch of theatrics to your fine jewellery collection and costume theatrical jewels in regal hues. Look to statement pieces, such as Elizabeth Gage’s imperial ring with ornate details, and opt for items like Cartier’s watch, which deliver on drama. 1. ELIZABETH GAGE | 2. CARRERA Y CARRERA | 3. CARTIER | 4. BUCCELLATI | 5. BVLGARI
3 4
5
194
T h e P i ec e
A ll
Th a t
Sparkles The Piece: This season, opt for one statement timepiece that carries both practical and aesthetic value. Stately by design and opulent in ornamentation, de Grisogono’s Baby Grappoli S04 watch is undoubtedly a piece of art. Its incredible stonework has positioned it to a level of grandeur that could easily be mistaken for fine jewellery. Delicately constructed with a pink gold full snow set and a precious pairing of 525 rubies, black rhodium grains and 62 briolette-cut jiggling rubellites, which have been carefully hand-sewn on to its case, the striking berry colour generated from these stones is unmissable and geared to woo women of affluent style. rubies, black rhodium grains and a stunning pair of pink gold Dauphine hands. The inclusion of natural stones makes no Grappoli the same, with varying hues proving a sense of individualism to its wearer. What’s more, the Italian brand has recently launched more versions of the Grappoli, from a white gold set with Paraiba tourmalines on an icy white galuchat strap, to a stunning dual coloured version set with both blue sapphires and purple-hued tanzanites.
Words by Sophie Pasztor
Its incredible dial is both functional and beautiful, displaying a pink gold snow-set with 226
T i m e l e ss
Treasures The Collection: Yoko London delivers a fresh spin on an age-old classic. Lying peacefully underneath the ocean’s rhythmic whitewash rests one of mother natures most guarded jewels. Captivating in their beauty, pearls offer an ageless allure that sing to jewellery labels like Yoko London. “We are continually conceiving fresh ways to wear pearls – be it an edgy South Sea pearl, diamond encrusted ear cuff, or a three finger ring with a Tahitian pearl,” explains CEO and Chief Designer, Michael Hakimian. The Maison’s Blue Rose collection is one that capitalises on the rarity of coloured pearls. Hakimian reveals, “We were enamoured by the natural blue colour of these pearls… I knew I’d hit on something special when I paired them with 18-karat rose gold. The colour combination was unusual, yet very attractive,” Yoko London’s exceptional eye to highlighting the natural beauty of coloured pearls through the meticulous placement of accompanying stones and decorative metal work is one to be appreciated. Whether your preference is guided Words by Sophie Pasztor
in a direction of colour for a modern flair, or fixated towards classic white pearls that work best with a monochrome palette, pearls are undoubtedly a hot commodity.
Clockwise from the top: 18-karat rose gold necklace with diamonds and Tahitian pearls, 18-karat rose gold earrings with diamonds and Tahitian pearls, 18-karat rose gold bracelet with diamonds and Tahitian pearls, 18-karat rose gold ring with diamonds and Tahitian pearls, YOKO LONDON
196
T h e T r end
B i r d W
a
t
ch
The Trend: The Middle East customises fashion’s newest muse. Fall’s runways had us flocking to feathered motifs as designers like Gucci, Rochas and Libertine all kept us on bird watch. We saw delicate appliqués woven into knits and simple black silhouettes printed on blouses. But, since then, the avian trend has gathered wind in the jewellery world. Birds have been made a majestic muse, with many a jeweller using their distinctive features as focal points for design. The Middle East offers much to this trend, providing a contextual reference point with its own indigenous breed of bird – the falcon. A national emblem of the UAE, the bird is a symbol of force and courage and has steadily made its presence felt, adorning jewellery in stately style. Intricate jewelled embellishments are used to decorate gun metal rings, while profile images are mounted on the dial of timepieces. Make a subtle link to the trend and adopt
Top to bottom: Watch, PIAGET | Necklace, NAYLA ARIDA at S*uce Rocks | Rings, AS29 @stylebop.com
Words by Sophie Pasztor
a dainty chain with a small wing detail or ruffle some feathers with a bold bird faced watch.
Th e O t h e r
G i v e n ch y
Words by Annie Darling
In his debut book, the eclectic and eccentric jewellery designs of James de Givenchy, nephew of the famed couturier Hubert de Givenchy, are cast in a dazzling new light.
Givenchy’s debut book profiling his 20 years in the jewellery business is available from early November
198
D e sig n er I nter vie w
Teardrops of milky-green chrysoprase and navy-
Belperron and modernist jeweller Raymond
blue chalcedony are suspended from a pair of
Templier, Givenchy’s debut tells “a personal
has contributed to Taffin’s special emphasis on fine craftsmanship. “I have a lot of people who
mammoth-ivory cherub faces. A fatuous ring
journey” that grants readers access to an
are willing to work with me and let me work with
of rectangular carved emerald is framed with
exclusive world, brimming with fat pearls, blood-
extremely high-end high-value items. That’s not
scintillating diamond-set platinum. James Taffin
red rubies and shimmering silver. Inspirational
something you can do without trust and respect.”
de Givenchy, designing under the name Taffin,
memories, personal photographs and hundreds
Sculptural designs and exceptional execution
has unquestionably become one of the most
of opulent one-of-a-kind pieces come together
make playful use of unusual materials; aluminium
sought-after jewellery designers today.
to form a bewitching narrative. Givenchy reveals
is matched with coral while rubellite tourmaline is
In his lavishly illustrated volume – also named
he has thought deeply about releasing a book
paired with rope. A shock of bold colour is often
Taffin – the Manhattan jeweller proudly
for several years. “Every year I would consider
injected with an inventive medley of peridots,
showcases more than 300 of his stunning
it, but I kept asking myself, ‘What would I put
sapphires and mandarin garnets. “I fell in love
creations for the very first time. Since launching
in a book?’ It sounds obvious, but it really isn’t
with the engineering of jewellery, its manufacture,”
his own business in 1996, Givenchy has
when you’re talking about yourself.”
he reveals. “The construction is as important as
garnered a glowing reputation as a connoisseur
Despite crafting fewer than 200 unique pieces a
the design. Trying to find ways to structure a
of priceless gems. The Franco-American, 53,
year, selecting which creations to feature in Taffin
piece of jewellery is very much like designing
exquisitely fuses pre-war Parisian romance
proved problematic. “Out of 2,000 pieces that
a building. It’s this construction that I find so
with New York City’s refined modernity, and
could have made it into the book, I had to pull
challenging and fun – finding ways of hiding the
while his work is heavily influenced by art deco
out 200. That was a very difficult thing to do.”
construction so that the design comes forward.”
design, his jewellery is decidedly contemporary.
Givenchy’s couture approach to jewellery design,
Givenchy himself designed the vibrant interiors
Often compared to legendary designer Suzanne
as well as his personal connection with clients,
of Taffin’s Madison Avenue headquarters, located
in the same building that houses his production
undivided attention to Taffin, where he continues
designed by Ricardo Tisci, whose dark design
atelier. The space is a gloriously eccentric boîte
to supply a “handful” of Middle Eastern buyers
is a far cry from Taffin’s genteel aesthetic.
á bijoux in rich rosewood, complete with a Louis
over the Internet. “It’s mindboggling to me. I
Givenchy consequently uses the first part of his
XIV-style writing desk and plush seating in his
love the idea, but I’m so used to meeting my
last name, Taffin, for his jewellery, in addition
signature colours – tomato red and chocolate
clients personally that I find it very strange to sell
to a line of scented candles.
brown –a throwback to his French ancestry.
something online and ship it somewhere without
While Taffin’s pieces all seem effortlessly serene
Born and raised in Beauvais, 40 miles north of
having a clue how the client is going to wear it.
and elegantly casual, there’s a method to their
Paris, Givenchy grew up in a small town where
All of a sudden, that piece is gone – it’s like a
obvious lack of madness. There’s a sense of
the Parfums Givenchy has its factory and where
family member and it’s just gone!”
modernity and, simultaneously, timelessness
his famed couturier uncle, Hubert de Givenchy,
Although he’s French, Givenchy produces
about the maison. Givenchy remains close to
was born. While he admits that there was a time
everything in America – and stamps all of his
his uncle, who also pursues their family history.
he considered following in his uncle’s footsteps,
designs with the Statue of Liberty. “I was looking
In his Manhattan high-rise apartment, he keeps
it was important to both Givenchy and his father
for a stamp that would somehow represent
a leather-bound tome that traces his family back
that he formed his own identity, and he has been
what I felt I was. The Statue of Liberty was a
to the 14th Century. A sign of the importance he
enamoured with jewels since childhood. “I fell in
gift to America,” he quips with a chuckle. “It’s a
places on his noble heritage – one that began
love with stones from the moment I saw them,”
symbol, an open door offered by the rest of the
centuries before his uncle founded the family’s
he says. “As a kid, I had a collection of gems, and
world.” His European roots remain important
fashion house in 1952. Perhaps his debut book,
they’ve always been something that attracts me.”
nonetheless. His uncle sold the right to use the
as well as the blue-blood secrets it contains, goes
Givenchy’s subsequent career was, as he
family’s surname name for business purposes
into this already longstanding legacy. It’s certainly
describes, “One of those things that just fell
when he sold his fashion house, which is now
something the next generation will appreciate.
into place.” After moving to America in the early Eighties, where he studied at New York’s Fashion Institute of Technology, he briefly ran a Givenchy flagship store. “My training was in graphic design and, of course, my family’s history was heavily involved with fashion.” This, along with his extensive knowledge about stones, as well as influential industry names, landed him a position at Christie’s auction house, where he ultimately ran the West Coast Jewellery Department in Los Angeles between 1991 and 1994. In 2006, Givenchy entered into a design venture with Sotheby’s Diamonds, creating a boundary-breaking collection of 15 one-ofa-kind pieces. “They originally asked me to be one of several designers, but I said no,” he smiles. “I told them, ‘The moment you’re ready, I’ll do a collection for you.’” Unlike his whimsical Taffin collection, the sophisticated alloy forms crafted for Sotheby’s Diamonds echoed the stark and severe Bauhaus movement. At first, Givenchy struggled to break away from the shadow of his famous uncle. “People think that you take life for granted. People think it’s easy for you because of your name, but I don’t believe I would’ve been able to do what I do had I not worked at Christie’s for six years, learned about the stones and met the right people.” Establishing his credibility was no easy feat. “Some of the people who were part of the diamond side of my partnership with Sotheby’s literally told me that I didn’t understand anything about diamonds,” he reveals. “They told me that nobody was going to wear diamonds with steel or rubber.” An opinion he proved wrong when the whole collection sold out on the opening night. In 2011, the jeweller returned to give his
Taffin crafts breathtaking one-of-a-kind pieces that match precious diamonds and rare coloured gems with settings made from unorthodox materials
200
T h e P i ec e
Pear-cut diamonds, yellow sapphire beads and Japanese cultured pearls; Les BlĂŠs de Chanel resembles a sun-kissed field of wheat swaying in the summer breeze. Words by Annie Darling
Photographs courtesy of CHANEL Fine Jewellery
Forest Fineries
Wax is painstakingly moulded, rounded and shaped into a majestic ear-of-wheat to create the voluptuous shape for an entangled network of early summer foliage, which elegantly wraps around the wearer’s neck
Gabrielle Chanel was a woman of many passions. She continues to inspire us with her trademark suits and little black dresses, but few people know that the fashion designer was particularly fond of sheaves of wheat. A universal symbol for prosperity and wealth, the gilded grain also harks back to Gabrielle’s peasant roots and reminded her of harvest time, which coincided with her birthday, August 19. The luxury fashion house is picking up on the founder’s adoration with its latest high jewellery collection: A blissful 62-line called Les Blés de Chanel. The resplendent crop marks the first time Chanel has presented a collection of coloured gemstones and it’s ripe with magnificent necklaces, bracelets, rings, earrings and watches. First presented at the Ritz Paris, a glorious wheat field installation was A highly skilled artisan carefully positions the sparkling stones of the ‘Légende de Blé’ 18-carat white gold necklace, which is set with a 5-carat marquise-cut diamond, 12 marquisecut diamonds and 839 brilliant-cut diamonds
In Chanel’s workshop at 18 Place Vendôme, Paris, the various strands of wheat that make the ‘Légende de Blé’ are meticulously positioned to perfect the abstract piece’s seductive shape and fit
commissioned by street artist Gad Weil – the man who once turned the ChampsÉlysées into a giant garden – to celebrate Les Blés de Chanel at Place Vendôme. The ‘Brins de Printemps’ necklace boasts precious diamonds, tourmalines, peridots and aquamarines and, along with ‘Premiers Brins’ and ‘Brins de Diamants’, pays homage to tender wheat shoots in early spring. The ‘Moisson d’Or’ brooch resembles a sheath of wheat tied by a yellow sapphire of 16.8 carats. ‘Fête des Moissons’ is a particularly notable piece, anchored by an octagonal 25-carat fancy intense yellow diamond (a nod to the jaw-dropping architecture at Place Vendôme). Crowns of braided wheat are crafted from a further 95-plus carats of diamonds in various cuts. Overall: An aptly named and stunningly beautiful collection.
In France, wheat is a symbol of prosperity and wealth. Notoriously superstitious, Gabrielle Chanel came to view the crop as a lucky charm. Here, the necklace’s central motif is flawlessly finished
202
China Calling Raw egg facials and drinkable pearls – we unearth the ancient and contemporary Chinese beauty practices that will change the way you think about skincare. Words by Laura Beaney
Each season, a new superpower in the
it’s clear that global wellness trends sit
before during the Cultural Revolution,
skincare arena emerges. And, after the
surprisingly well next to holistic Chinese
a phase when women were celebrated
Chinese market opened up during the
practices. In the West, technological
for their ability to perform manual
Seventies, the worlds of Western luxury
and chemical advancements have
labour rather than for their looks.
and Chinese tradition began to merge.
previously dominated, but as the air
Today’s Chinese youth have gone full
Today, our heads turn from Korea to the
of mystery shrouding Oriental beauty
circle, the generation that previously
direction of Beijing, Shanghai and Hong
practices lifts, we open ourselves
didn’t have a voice is now shifting the
Kong, with China rapidly emerging as
up to alternative approaches. The
dynamics with its own value system.
the latest destination to yield beauty
more extreme exercises like raw egg
A place of paradox, China might be
innovations and trends.
facemasks can now be negated for
a latecomer to the medical aesthetics
But, what makes Chinese skincare so
China’s more marketable rituals, like
scene, for example, but today botox
appealing to the rest of us? Indeed,
rose quartz facials.
is already a popular pastime for the
the pearlescent, dewy complexion
A surprising upsurgence, perhaps,
twenty-somethings and Internet usage
generally associated with the nation has
given the stringent beauty standards
is amongst the highest worldwide.
an obvious allure, but delving deeper,
that filled the region just five decades
And, as this rampant consumption of
Main Image, Fashion in Full Bloom, photographed by Amber Gray, MOJEH Issue 26. Additional images courtesy of Getty photographer, Melodie Jang,
M OJEH B ea u ty
Sleek and polished from the hair to the skin, Luping Wang adds drama to the eyes with a hint of dark shadow at Zuhair Murad a/w16
technology, beauty and luxury continues and collides, unsurprisingly applications like Meitu, the selfie transformation platform based in Xiamen, China, is a world bestseller. Downloaded over one billion times and largely driven by the Chinese youth, it is also an indicator of Western influence over the Chinese beauty aesthetic, with multi-nationals like L’Oréal counting China as its number two market in sales second only to the US. China’s fashion and beauty ecosystem that was once the domain of the mature and the elite is today driven by the hip millenials, a generation that Goldman Sachs describes as ‘the single most important demographic on the planet today’ and who are known for investing their newfound spending power in the bourgeoning luxury goods market. A travel-savvy set that have a taste for high European labels like Louis Vuitton and Gucci, their beauty cupboard is just as likely to be stocked with premium products from De La Mer and Eve Lom as it is with heritage treatments like Dabao SOD snake ointment. Even so, as China’s adoration for technologically and surgically advanced beauty ripens, deep-rooted tradition continues to pulse at the heart of the Orient’s beauty culture, with each generation passing down ancient rituals to be adopted by the next. “I am constantly influenced by Asian skincare traditions, especially ingredients such as ginseng, jade,
Chinese beauty products involving the
Shanghai fashion blogger, Leaf Greener.
tourmaline and tea extracts,” says
powers of tea and gemstones,” advises
“Hemp, honey and antioxidant-rich
Ling Chan, celebrity dermatologist
Chan, who counts Cindy Crawford and
green tea heals dry skin, while bitter
and founder of the cult, New York,
Naomi Campbell amongst her clientele.
clove, jade, bamboo and green tea
Ling Skincare range. Chan has used
“The Chinese have documented and
combats wrinkles,” she shares. Greener
this influence as the basis for her own
researched the beauty benefits of tea
mixes the tea leaves alongside the
product range, with additions such as
and gemstones for many centuries and
other ingredients into a paste and then
the jade roller, a product that has gained
modern scientists have now tapped into
applies them as a mask. As a child,
recent cult status, but has actually
the long history for research inspiration,”
Greener recalls her mother bathing
been used by Chinese dynasties as
she continues. And, jade is among the
her and washing her face in milk to
far back as the 7th Century. The use
many gemstones, crystals, herbs and
soften her skin, but today the blogger
of the gemstone is said to transmit
animal extracts that form the foundations
maintains a more complex cleansing
natural infrared rays and promises to
of the ancient Chinese healing rituals
routine. As well as washing her face
boost circulation, lymphatic drainage
that are now experiencing a revival.
with a foam cleanser at least three
and reduce puffiness. “Look out for
“Teas are a girl’s best friend,” says
times using both warm and cold water,
204 Greener applies a facial treatment
Kong’s Visala Wong, the 26-year-old
lotion, moisturiser and sunscreen each
founder of contemporary jewellery
eyes’ from within.
day. When evening comes, she elects
line, LUZID Designs. “Some of the all-
As Chinese tastes veer towards
to use Estée Lauder’s Advanced Night
time favourite Chinese herbs are reishi
European mega-brands and the West
Repair Concentrated Recovery Power
mushrooms, pearl powder made from
embraces traditions that have long been
Foil Mask at least three times per week.
oyster shells, and tea,” she continues.
popular in the Orient, we are starting
Greener’s traditional tea treatments are
Taken internally and applied topically by
to experience both a renaissance and
just one example of the practices of the
the Chinese for over 2,000 years, pearl
reinvention with a hybrid of East-meets-
past that are beginning to weave their
powder, in particular, has found favour
West beauty products and practices.
way into the mainstream beauty market.
with the healthy lifestyle leaders of Los
Increasingly, ingredients like green
“We believe drinking and partaking of
Angeles, with brands like Moon Juice
tea and tea tree oil are paired with
Chinese herbs can improve our internal
offering the ingredient in their Beauty
technologically advanced formulations
body condition and immune system
Dust and Pearl Beautifying Cell Builder
in products like Dr. Lancer’s Contour
resulting in radiant skin,” says Hong
that promise to promote ‘supple skin,
Décolleté that blends snail venom with
Chinese model Jing Wen is fresh faced with flushed, bitten lips and Seventies flowing waves at the Diane Von Furstenberg s/s16 show whilst metallic gold and shimmering peach were used to highlight the lids and lips at Christian Dior Haute Couture a/w16
lustrous shiny hair and twinkling bright
MOJEH Recommends: Three To Try
What: Jade Roller, Ling Skincare Chinese Credentials: A precious stone believed to draw out negative Qi, jade has long been used in the beauty rituals of Chinese royalties Why: Ling Chan has combined her Chinese heritage with her expert experience as a dermatologist to create this jade roller. Designed to release muscular tension in the face, it creates a cool, soothing effect, increases blood circulation, and diminishes the appearance of fine lines
like peptides to harness the best of both worlds, or Wei Beauty’s face masks that follow the principles of Chinese herbal
What: Dragon’s Blood Instant Lift Eye Mask, Wei Beauty Chinese Credentials: This Hong Kong-based skincare and beauty brand built its foundations on the principles of Chinese medicine
doctors, using grain sprouts sealed in
Why: Renowned for its healing properties and used by the
state-of-the-art packaging, allowing
Chinese for centuries to protect the skin from environmental
sheet masks to float in the essence of
aggressors, Dragon’s Blood is a red sap harvested from the
the ingredients for enhanced absorption. And while, like many non-Western innovations, Chinese herbology holds
Dragon Tree. The anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties of the sap are concentrated in sheet masks specifically focused on the eye area to diminish the appearance of crow’s feet
little in the way of scientific research to support its beautifying claims, experts like Chan believe that this is just the beginning. “I think the future of Chinese skincare is really about merging traditional beauty extracts with the latest innovative ingredients and using modern technology to fully harness and preserve the powers of herbal extracts,” she says. A seemingly obvious approach that takes the best practices from a culture that has been immersed in ingredient-focused beauty for millennia
What: Beauty Dust, Moon Juice
and commercially realising them through
Chinese Credentials: A key ingredient in this mix of organic
the latest laboratory innovations,
goji berries and schisandra, the Chinese have been using
one only has to look to the pristine
pearl powder to treat everything from skin tone and radiance
complexions that frequent Chan’s clinic to realise that Chinese skincare can afford us with the best of both worlds.
to migraines and tuberculosis since the 7th Century Why: Claiming to heal from the inside out, add Beauty Dust to hot or cold drinks to achieve a radiant complexion, healthy looking hair and brighter eyes
206
M OJEH H ealth
Calvin Klein a/w16
The Great Vitamin Fake Off As an increasing amount of studies show that our bodies may not benefit from vitamin supplements in the way that they promise, we examine the truth behind our pills.
fair few bucks) in 2013 when a much-publicised study by Eliseo Guallar and his colleagues at The American College of Physicians, entitled Enough is Enough: Stop Wasting Money on Vitamin and Mineral Supplements, found that “supplementing the diet of well-nourished adults with (most) mineral or vitamin supplements had no clear benefit and might even be harmful”. They reviewed 24 different studies and two trials on more than 350,000 individuals. In a similar study on the Iowa Women’s Health, leading author Jaakko Mursu concluded that not only do supplements not protect against chronic diseases, but “in some cases, they may be harmful, especially if used for a long
A full day’s supply of 12 vitamins and minerals
belief says they’re beneficial for our health, in
time”. Digging even further, a recent study by
in a single pill? Half your recommended dose
recent years, that answer has morphed closer
the Women’s Health Initiative that followed more
of Vitamin D in a single glass of fortified milk?
to the opposite, with more and more experts
than 160,000 middle-aged women showed
It’s all very exciting and all of this easily-
uncovering evidence that indicates the fact
that multi-vitamin-takers are no healthier than
accessible goodness, but can our bodies take
that not only is an insurance policy in a pill
others, at least when it comes to big diseases
full advantage or are we really being mis-sold
unrealistic, it could actually do more damage
like cancer, heart disease and stroke. So, if we
a quick-fix for good health? Once upon a time,
to our health than good. Similarly, we might just
can’t rely on our trusty pills, then what can we
we believed in the tooth fairy, stable housing
be wasting our money – our bodies need just
rely on? “A varied diet rich in fruits, vegetables
prices and honest politicians. And, if a new
80mg of Vitamin C daily, and anything over this
and whole grains,” says the American Heart
wave of recent research is anything to go by,
is excreted from the body, so is there any point
Association, which should provide you with
we could all be feeling the pain of another myth
in taking a multi-vitamin that promises1,500mg?
all your essential vitamins and minerals. But,
being shattered in the very near future – the one
Probably not, and here’s why...
we all know that’s easier said than done.
surrounding the benefits of vitamin supplements.
Vitamin and nutrient supplements have been a
If our trusty supplements aren’t doing what
It’s the $5 billion dollar industry with the
craze since the early 1900s, when the population
they say on the tin, do we know why? “A lot
billion-dollar question – and a fiery debate
found it much more difficult to introduce a
of vitamin and nutrient supplements are not
that has been picking up traction within the
variety of fresh fruit and veg into their diets than
plant- or whole food-based,” says Dr Hoda,
health industry over the last few years – will
we do today. As such, the general consensus
consultant, Family Medicine and Integrative
popping 10 types of vitamins and minerals a
that taking vitamin supplements should be
Holistic Medicine, at Euromed Clinic in Dubai.
day really do us any good and make up for a
part of our daily routine has stuck around. Yet,
“Instead they are made from synthetic and
poor diet at the same time, or are the industry
many advocates mourned the loss of their bank
unnatural ingredients, which can work to a
insiders just selling us a dream? While general
balances (supplements today can set you back a
minor degree when first taken but over time,
208
Our bodies can only absorb between 0-10 per cent of the vitamins in a supplement and the rest is simply wasted.
way to get the goodies direct to where we need them – in our blood. The likes of Rihanna and Cindy Crawford are among their celebrity fans, and the clinic has now set up shop in Dubai. “Our bodies can only absorb between 0-10 per cent of the vitamins in a supplement and the rest is simply wasted,” say co-founders Acaena Amoros and Mahi Aramideh. “With intravenous infusions, absorption is 100 per cent. In addition,
eventually accumulate in the body when they
400-microgram target is through a pill. There’s
the nutrients, vitamins and amino acids can be
aren’t broken down, causing more fatigue,
the ‘Healthy User Effect’ to keep in mind, too –
safely delivered in high doses because they
tiredness and other side effects.”
vitamin devotees are more likely to exercise, eat
bypass your gastrointestinal system.”
However, the most obvious reason could
right and resist the temptation of tobacco and
While this does sound promising, unless you’ve
depend on the types of vitamin we are talking
eating habits, leading to an all-round healthier
got a hefty bank balance, these infusions do
about. Starting with the science, supplements
body. And, don’t forget, vitamins need some
come at a cost – Dhs2,000 per pop, to be exact,
are split into two main camps: Fat-soluble and
friends. Some nutrients work better when
if you’re looking at the VIP options. “There are
water-soluble, with Vitamin C and B the most
consumed with others – and fat-soluble vitamins
many supplies of vitamins in a healthy diet,
popular among the latter, which are the ones
can obviously only be absorbed when taken in
so long as refined foods are rarely eaten,”
causing all the debate. “Water-soluble vitamins
the presence of fat, so if you’re taking a multi-
says Melanie Waxman, SHA Wellness Clinic
need to be replenished on a regular basis as
vitamin with A, D, E or K in it, you’ll need to take
Specialist in Natural Therapies and Nutritionist.
the body doesn’t store them in large amounts,”
it with a meal for it to have an effect.
“Vitamins are best absorbed from fresh, dried,
continues Dr Hoda. “What’s more, once our
One pill that’s looking better and better is
fermented or cooked foods. Sure, if there is a
bodies reach the maximum limit, we just extract
Vitamin D to protect against a long list of ills.
serious vitamin deficiency then supplements can
the excess.” Just because a product claims it
The ‘sunshine vitamin’ has been proven to lower
be beneficial for short periods of time, but they
provides hundreds of percentages over the
the risk of at least half a dozen cancers, yet
don’t replace healthy food in the long term.” But
body’s daily recommendations, they may just
thanks to an obsession with sunscreen and our
that’s not just any healthy diet. “Commercially
be going down the drain. Literally. It’s just the
workaholic culture, most of us don’t get enough.
grown grains are very low in minerals and the
fat-soluble vitamins – think A, D, E and K – that
“If you’re an older adult, have dark skin, or are
refining process removes what little they do
are absorbed more successfully and stay in
exposed to insufficient UV rays, consume extra
have,” she continues. “It’s therefore essential
our bodies for longer.
vitamin D-fortified food and/or supplements,”
to get our minerals form whole, organic foods.
But, it can’t all be bad news, right? Experts do
says the US Food and Drug Administration’s
Include seaweed, nuts, dark leafy greens as well
reason for cases when taking supplements is
website, www.fda.gov.
as dandelion leaves, peppermint and red clover
advised, such as for women of a reproductive
An import from London’s Harley Street, The Elixir
– all which are exceptional sources of minerals
age, who need adequate amounts of B Vitamin
Clinic’s famous vitamin-packed intravenous
–and you can’t go wrong.” So, there you have
folate to ensure the baby’s spinal cord health.
infusion treatments are in the business of
it. An organic diet and fat-soluble vitamins –
Luckily, the most effective way of hitting the
tackling this problem, offering a more effective
that’s a no-brainer coupled with a great bet.
Photographed by Sarvenaz Hashtroudi, styled by Sophie Pasztor
On The Grape Vine Rich plum, warm mauve and fresh lavender sing to your mysterious side. Whether you prefer a dark vampy lip or shimmering shades of berry on your lids, this enigmatic palette will cast an alluring charm over your winter beauty routine.
Top to bottom: Brush, BURBERRY | Ombre Iridescente Eye Shadow, CLARINS | Lipstick, CHRISTIAN DIOR | Nail Lacquer 09 Plum Noir, TOMFORD | Shimmering Cream Eye Color VI226 - Lavande, SHISEIDO | Gimme a Lido Kiss, O.P.I | Illusion D’Ombre 857 Rouge Noir, CHANEL
210
M OJEH B ea u ty
Changing
Nature As skincare enters into a new era of enlightenment, we uncover the beautifying secrets that healing crystals have to offer.
Rose quartz for clarity, onyx for healing
placing gemstones on or near to the body
Chow’s signature jewellery designs
and opal for creative flow – there’s a
to draw out negative energy. Believed to
propelled quartz pendants into the realm
crystal revival afoot. The sacred objects
have their own vibrational frequencies, for
of contemporary fashion, while today
that were first popularised during the
millennia gemstones have been employed
designers like Martin Anguiano and Mark
Seventies now appear across the board,
for their therapeutic and beautifying
Phillips leave flourishing fashion careers
from trending talismans to high-profile
properties – Queen Cleopatra was said
to launch concepts like Spellbound Sky,
advocates like Victoria Beckham, who
to have bathed with rose quartz for its
their Los Angeles-based store that stocks
places love-inducing pink quartz and
anti-aging benefits, while today you might
an assortment of metaphysical crystals
healing black tourmaline backstage at
find a discreetly placed piece of black
and minerals. And, while in our current
her fashion shows. And now, a new wave
tourmaline next to a colleague’s laptop,
period of the New New Age, crystals are
of products is tapping into this healing
there to absorb radiation. A resurgence
undoubtedly ‘in’, their latest incarnation
mantra, targeting skin issues with an equal
of mainstream holistic tendencies like
sees these precious and semi-precious
measure of mystique and methodology.
these generally occurs in cycles every
stones utilised in a fresh way. From the
Crystal healing refers to the practice of
20 years. During the late Eighties, Tina
pearl and diamond facials listed at the Four
Main image courtesy of Gemfields
Words by Laura Beaney
and Adorn’s Amethyst Balance Eau De Parfum, crystals are the latest spiritual solution to impact the beauty industry. “Amethyst is known to help acne, rose quartz can calm redness, blue sodalite can help with the lymphatic system and hematite – a stone with iron and oxygen – is great for energising the skin,” enthuses Kristin Petrovich, one half of the mother/daughter duo behind holistic luxury skincare brand, Själ. “The East has practiced this for 4,000-plus years and now, Western medicine has begun adapting the use of crystals in medicine and beauty,” she continues. For some,
What: Emerald Gemstone Face Oil, Shiffa
MOJEH Recommends: Three To Try
Seasons spa to Shiffa’s Emerald Facial Oil
Gemstones: Emerald Beauty Benefits: Emeralds are said to clear the mind and strengthen the memory whilst having a detoxifying effect on the liver. In this formulation the precious stone is paired with other natural ingredients like juniper and antioxidant-rich green tea to balance oil secretions whilst stimulating and detoxifying the skin
the possibility that crystals are in tune with our skin issues may seem remote and there is little scientific evidence to support the array of claims that surround crystal healing practices, yet skeptics may be interested to discover that there is an equal dose of methodology mixed with the mindfulness when it comes to crystal
What: Headache Magic, Aquarian Soul Gemstones: Quartz and amethyst Beauty Benefits: A blend of soothing almond oil, quartz and amethyst as well
beauty. “After almost 12 years studying
as other therapeutic grade essential oils.
crystals, I began putting them into my
This composition acts as an incredibly
own skincare,” says Ally Sands, founder
effective natural treatment for headaches
of Aquarian Soul, a beauty brand that combines herbology with semi-precious stones to create products like Rose Quartz Lip Salve and Chamomile and
when applied to the temples. Quartz is known for its healing properties and is utilised for its purifying properties whilst amethyst is a natural tranquiliser used to balance emotional wellbeing
Tourmaline Eye Serum. For potent results, Sands imparts the crystals straight into her formulations. “Rose quartz is one of the best stones for skincare – it allows products to penetrate more readily, gives your skin a wonderful glow and balances your skin tone.” Products like Själ’s Kashmir Sapphire mask allow the crystal benefits to penetrate deep into the skin, while pearl powders can be ingested internally, and tumbled stones like amethyst, quartz and lapis lazuli can be used for facial massages. Entering into the
What: Pearl Enzyme, Själ Gemstones: Pearl, diamond, ruby, amethyst, citrine and blue sapphire Beauty Benefits: A triple-threat exfoliant
world of crystal beauty might seem like
and mask that detoxifies pores and
a glistening minefield, but as with the
illuminates the skin through a powerful
healing movement, the experts maintain
complex of enzymes, multi-fruit
that selecting the right product and stone is an intuitive process. Often, supporters
acids, and crushed pearl to minimize dullness, and remove dead skin cells. Each gemstone has its own vibration
are drawn to the same type of stone for
that creates a gentle cooling effect
both healing and cosmetic purposes.
when applied to skin
212
Birds of Prey There are more women involved in hunting today than ever before. MOJEH explores whether it’s more difficult for a woman to indulge in a pastime that men have pursued for so long.
Words by Annie Darling
Jewel of the Desert, photographed by Simon Upton, MOJEH Issue 1. Images courtesy of Artie Photography (Artie Ng) and Independent Picture Service/UIG at Getty
Tal k ing P o i nt
214
It’s deer hunting season. Whitney, a 20-something
to hunt with guns in comparison to 1988.
Texan, wakes up at five o’clock. She swiftly
The group also claimed that the 2.6 million
packs her bow and stakeout equipment before
women who hunt with guns represent 13 per
heading, camouflage-clad, to the blind – a cover
cent of the hunting population. There’s nothing
device used by hunters.
contemporary about women hunting – it’s the
It’s an early morning routine she’s faithfully
oldest profession. But, what is new is the trend
followed since she was 18-years-old, and she’s
for hunters to show off their kills online. While
often accompanied by her father; who is also her
men and women alike indulge in this practice,
mentor. “It’s pitch black,” she describes of their
huntresses markedly find themselves on the
hunting ground. “You can hear everything: Twigs
receiving end of online abuse. Not many are
snapping, armadillos digging, and coyotes. Once
willing to agree to an interview, so great are the
it’s light enough to see out of the blind and the
repercussions for discussing this divisive issue.
deer start to appear, I feel a rush of excitement.”
Both Lisa and Whitney regularly post ‘trophy
An effect of what is commonly referred to as
photos’, although the latter keeps her social
‘Buck Fever’; hunters tremble with adrenalin
media profiles private so that she doesn’t
immediately before, or after, a kill. Whitney
provoke a hostile reaction. “I post my own
positions her weapon, and shoots.
trophies knowing that my followers and friends
“In this day and age, women are brought up
are well aware that hunting is something I’ve
hearing that they can do anything a man can
done for years. You can choose who you friend
do. Why should hunting be any different?” While
and follow on social media, so people shouldn’t
hunting has always been a divisive subject (and
be offended when they see a trophy posted
one which MOJEH does not condone), women
by someone who is a known hunter.” Lisa
have become the fastest-growing group among
publicly posts images and likens the trend to
hunters and are reviving an industry that was
Instagramming food or a family barbeque.
in danger of stagnating. The surge has some
However, photos of smiling markswomen, wild-
men complaining that women are invading a
eyed and ecstatic, sitting with their newly slain
traditionally male-dominated sport and that their
prey isn’t the most appetising image. Posting
increased involvement has affected everything
under the hashtag #realgirlshunt, enthusiasts are
from the design of guns to hunting apparel.
often seen posing in camouflage gear alongside
Whitney, however, considers this to be a positive
alligators, deer and giraffes; a modern-day
change in society. “Putting a spotlight on women
alternative to the outdated, mounted wildebeest
“I think those outside the hunting world are
in the field opens up opportunities to others who
horns that were once found in grandfather’s
more likely to attack a female who hunts over
may be interested, but are worried about what
study. In 2013, American television presenter
a male, because the former are seen as gentle,
people will think of them.”
Melissa Bachman sparked worldwide outrage
nurturing, and less apt to veer towards practices
This phenomenon reflects a paradox: In
when she posed with the body of a lion she’d
that are seen as violent or malicious,” rebuts
recent years, hunting has fallen into disrepute
shot in South Africa. In 2014, Texan cheerleader
Lisa. Whitney argues that well-regulated hunting
because of the rise in support for animal
Kendall Jones was similarly vilified for posting
helps control wildlife populations, and provides
welfare and gun control movements, but it’s
pictures alongside dead elephants and leopards.
funding for restoration efforts. “If there’s any
become popular among women who are
“As a woman and as a feminist, I feel a special kind
doubt where conservation and big-game hunters
breaking down restrictive stereotypes about
of repulsion when I see female trophy hunters,”
are concerned, check out The Cecil Effect,”
femininity. “The majority of people I hunt with
says Ashley Fruno, manager of international
recommends Lisa.
are male,” reveals Lisa, a New Yorker and
operations at the People for the Ethical
In 2015, American dentist Walter Palmer killed
avid huntress. “This is changing because
Treatment of Animals (PETA). “I would hope for
Cecil the lion in Zimbabwe. In the weeks that
the landscape of the industry is becoming
better from another woman... one would hope
followed, he was issued with death threats and
more appealing and accessible to females.”
that a woman – that mothers – might be more
the killing was condemned by various celebrities,
The National Shooting Sports Foundation
sensitive to the fact that by killing healthy ‘trophy’
including Ricky Gervais and Mia Farrow. World
(NSSF), a firearms industry group, said in 2015
animals to mount on their walls, they are also
leaders spoke out about alleged immoralities
that 49.5 per cent more women are licensed
potentially making orphans of juvenile animals.”
of hunting and Cecil was posthumously named
TIME Magazine’s Most Influential Animal of 2016.
animal – even an endangered one – for sport,
are no longer comfortable not knowing where
Earlier this year, the government of Zimbabwe
and insists hunting can ensure the survival of a
their food comes from.”
announced that because of the decline in lion
species. “I’m supportive of all hunters, no matter
While PETA argues that “hunting has never
hunting following Cecil’s death, hundreds of lions
their game, so long as the animal is utilised
been less popular”, more and more women are
may have to be killed to keep the population
and conservation dollars are spent to ensure
showcasing their spoils. Whether they prefer to
in the country’s Bubye Valley Conservancy
the longevity of the practice. Lion hunters pay
stalk ibex in Mongolia, elk in New Mexico, or lions
at a manageable level. The result of the anti-
a hefty sum even for the chance at shooting
in Benin, huntresses are on the receiving end of
hunting backlash proves – to advocates like Lisa
a lion and this money fuels anti-poaching and
a vast majority of abuse in an overwhelmingly
and Whitney – that hunters play an important
conservation efforts. In addition, meat that’s
male-dominated sport. This is unfair, but hardly
conservation role and keep the predator-to-
obtained from the hunt is always donated to
a surprise: Why would misogyny absent itself
prey ratio in balance. PETA’s Ashley Fruno,
local villages, orphanages, or eaten back at the
from hunting? It may be difficult to accept the
however, disagrees. “Claiming that hunting
lodge by the hunters.”
view that female hunters are a symbol of power
somehow helps animal populations is as
Many women are opting for the woods rather
and gender equality, but instead, we should
ridiculous as saying that killing people is a
than the grocery store for truly free-range meat,
perhaps reanalyse the conventional early-human
solution to world hunger. Killing one member
with many huntresses leading the support for
hunter-gatherer gender roles. Forasmuch as
of a species doesn’t save that animal’s life or
sustainable food and agriculture initiatives. “The
we may oppose hunting, why do we think
the lives of others in that animal’s herd or pack.”
healthy food movement has helped bring hunting
it’s worse for women to indulge in a pastime
But Lisa sees no contradiction in killing an
into the mainstream,” argues Lisa. “Many people
that men have profitably pursued for so long?
Main image The Faces of Ford, photographed by Tommy Clarke MOJEH Issue 4. Additional images courtesy of The Devil Wears Prada, Advanced Style and Dior & I
216 Tal k ing P o i nt
It’s in the way she never raises her voice, never snarling nor shouting. And, it’s in the way she freezes her staff with fear from a single shot. Meryl Streep is a tyrannical boss on screen, and everyone can relate to it. David Frankel’s The Devil Wears Prada, which was adapted from Lauren Weisberger’s brief stint as an assistant to Anna Wintour, US Vogue’s editor-in-chief, portrays the ice queen parodied. Marking 10 years since its release, the unforgiving drama and unforgotten quotes remain in the fashion vernacular today. It sent out a shockwave of fashion fever, touching those who had previously had no interest in its frivolity. It left legions of new fans asking: But, it is true? Can the satirical world in which it’s set be real? Cue: The documentary filmmakers capturing catwalks, catfights and careerism on a realistic level. “I think there is a current interest in fashion coming from academic and cultural fields,” says Alice Pfeiffer, fashion editor of Le Monde. “I’ve noticed lots of projects focusing on the curation and museification of fashion – such as the bikini exhibition in Galerie Joseph Froissart
Life Behind The Curtain The fashion industry has long been hailed as a famously exclusive and private world, but as the number of fashion documentaries being made increases tenfold, we look at why life behind the curtain has never been more relevant.
in Paris and the Barbie Doll exhibition (where clothes play a large role) at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs. Documentary filmmakers, thinkers, writers, curators, anthropologists are beginning to realise, worldwide, the impact of fashion on society.” It’s a trillion dollar business with people waiting in the wings for the next big thing, and a peek inside. Take Frédéric Tcheng’s 2014 Dior and I, which takes us through the daily grind of the storied Paris fashion house. Raf Simons, Dior’s new artistic director (who’s no longer working for the house), arrives in a cloud of nervous expectation, with just eight weeks to produce a couture collection to be shown during Paris Fashion Week. We witness a team in his atelier working around the clock to meet tight deadlines – an army of white-coated women with seriously honed technical skills and true craftsmanship at their fingertips. The pressure is palpable. But, what is both illuminating and touching is Raf himself. A Belgian designer from a humble background who’s camera-shy, but openly weeps from nerves before his firstever couture show opens. It’s raw and real. As interesting an insight as it is, it leaves a lingering feeling that leans towards a thinly disguised corporate promotion after the Galliano scandal. “It is extremely difficult to cover fashion honestly since luxury groups regulate and dominate
Words by Susan Devaney
the media by advertising in them,” explains Pfeiffer. “I have yet to see a documentary about Hugo Boss as the Nazis’ tailor or Coco Chanel’s collaboration in World War II – simply because both houses are too powerful, too connected to their country’s national image and totally protected and untouchable.”
218 Advanced Style, 2014: Challenging the way we perceive fashion for the elderly, Ari Seth Cohen’s blog, book and documentary captures the spirited style of New York’s senior citizens
But then, there’s the 2010 Bill Cunningham New York documentary that sidesteps fashion’s wide-eyed escapism. The late 82-year-old fashion photographer for the New York Times scoured the streets looking for ordinary people, dressed in an extraordinary way. Following him for two years, Richard Press captures history and intimacy with extreme modesty. Entering his home, it summed up this man who had the fashion world at his feet: Simple and humble. Cycling around town for years on end wearing a $20 blue jacket similar to that of a Parisian street sweeper, Cunningham is a real as it gets. No glamorisation, no fakery. “It was long snubbed, but today an increasing number of serious documentaries, thesis, books and exhibitions are being produced, that celebrate or deconstruct fashion’s role to both support and reflect current politics,” says Pfeiffer. Released last year, Andrew Morgan’s The True Cost is a different kind of fashion documentary, and the tale is far from fabulous. From workers in Bangladesh and
The Devil Wears Prada, 2006: The feature film that spurred public curiosity and the legion of real-life fashion documentaries that followed
Dior And I, 2014: An intimate look at the high-pressure moments surrounding Raf Simon’s inauguration at Dior in the lead up to couture week
cotton farmers in Texas to factory workers
known as fashion documentary may have been
(a risky move for an industry that caters to
in Cambodia, it delves into the human and
introduced in 1995 with Unzipped, but it’s only
the young). It’s interesting, captivating and (at
environmental cost of fast fashion. Whether
in the last decade that it’s really made a wealth
times) rather emotional. It leaves its viewers
it’s gained enough interest to attract viewers
of historic offerings. As the industry undergoes
wondering: Is eccentric the only appropriate
(who aren’t linked to the industry in one way
major changes and enters a time of instability
look at 60? But, at least they’re included
or another) is another thought. One question
and calls for a complete restructuring of the
rather than excluded. Is it a sheer coincidence
is most certainly left unanswered: Why is no
fashion system, documentaries are shedding
we then witnessed Joni Mitchell and Joan
one challenging our economic system head
some light on the pressure today’s designers
Didion gracing the campaigns for French
on? But, it’s the customers who are pushing
are under. “Some documentaries participate in
fashion house Céline last year?
and pressing for answers. In 2016, we have
keeping up the dream, the illusion and the fluff
It’s not all about better clothes, and bigger
more disposable income than ever before and
around fashion, because either the director is
budgets. “Fashion is losing its frivolous,
we’re putting our money where our mouth
drawn to fashion precisely to be part of that
hyper-consumerist reputation (which it still
is by asking questions, asking for a better
dream for a short while, or because there are
is of course!) and increasingly being looked
insight. We want to know what’s at the end
advertisers behind the film that regulate what
at like a serious, history-making process,”
(or beginning) of our paper trail and whose
can or cannot be said,” explains Pfeiffer. Take
says Pfeiffer. The UK’s BBC aired Absolutely
lives it’s affecting. For customers, the appeal
2009’s The September Issue, directed by R.
Fashion: Inside British Vogue at the start
of social media is obvious: They think they’re
J. Cutler. It documents the process involved
of September. An apparently reluctant
gaining a peek inside a famously private
by the team at American Vogue of putting
Alexandra Schulman, the magazine’s editor-
place. But, a documentary is giving us about
together their biggest issue yet, September
in-chief, allowed a cameraman (who has no
a 90-minute previously inaccessible in-your-
2007. It’s one polished documentary. But
experience with the industry) to follow her
face footage. And, we want more.
– what we witness is a system that moves
and her team around. The reviews were
“I strongly feel that the viewership of
as fast as the speed of light, with everyone
glowing, and curiosity further fuelled. And
documentaries has increased,” explains
else trying to keep up. Editor-in-chief
recently, we’ve seen the release of Franca:
Gauri Chadha, an award-winning film director
Anna Wintour personally vetoes designer’s
Chaos and Creation, taking us through the
and writer, who lives between Mumbai and
collections before they hit the catwalk – it’s
career of Franca Sozzani, the editor of Italian
Dubai. “Firstly, our audience is getting more
make or break for some. And, making an
Vogue, and filmed by her son. Hopefully, in
educated, and secondly, as the availability
accidental celebrity of creative director and
2017, we’ll see the colourfully documented
of content has drastically increased with the
flame-haired Grace Coddington, the passion
relationship between Alexander McQueen
boom of online viewing, an average audience
for the industry and their jobs is remarkable.
and Isabella Blow. Unlike the ever-changing
member is given a greater variety of content
Or – breaking a fashion taboo, Ari Cohen
world of fashion and its insatiable quest
to explore, which gives way to the exposure
filmed the lives of seven New York women
for the new, the documentaries are here
of documentaries.” The established genre
over the age of 60 for Advanced Style in 2014
to be forever watched, and remembered.
220
A rt is t in E x h i bit ion
S u p e r s ta r
A r t Artists are often entangled in the paradoxical position of their work being deemed a luxury item, while critiquing the very systems that frame it as such. With young artists gaining superstar status overnight, we speculate over art as luxury and the implications this might have, through looking at the practice of Oscar Murillo.
Image 1, Rubell Family Collection, Image 4, photographed by Mark Blower
Words by Jareh Das
Untitled (mango), using oil paint, plastic and dirt on canvas, Oscar Murillo 2012
of money their work commands. Collectors, museums, galleries and the art market, all play important roles in enabling certain artists (a select few) to dominate the scene, and at certain moments in time, younger artists can find themselves suddenly thrust into a limelight promising wealth, success and fame. A characteristic of this century has been the extraordinary ascent of some young artists, whose careers have been made by their talent – but others argue, by the market. One such artist is the talented Oscar Murillo, who almost overnight blew up when his work, Untitled (Drawings Off the Wall), sold for $401,000 (AED 1.47 million) – far beyond its estimate – at a Phillips New York auction in 2013, although none of the profits from this sale went directly to the artist. It has since been reported that profits from this monumental sale, which was offered on the secondary market, were a result of flipping, a practice where works are bought at lesser prices and resold at auctions independent of the artist’s input or control. The artist Oscar Murillo preparing his work at the Rubell Family Collection in Miami 2012
Murillo is known for his paintings, but he also creates critically engaging video works and performances, which explore the notion of
The word ‘superstar’ is synonymous with
was starting its media run. Ingrid called me
community stemming from his migration to
celebrity culture and Hollywood, but the term
a few weeks ago. She’s operating a sewing
London as a child and Colombia, where he
was later used in the Sixties by Andy Warhol,
machine now. But, her name is still going.
was born. Distance and displacement are
and bears relevance to deconstructing the
It seems incredible, doesn’t it?” – Andy
visible in his works, whilst drawing on the
status and its use in the Contemporary Art
Warhol, The Philosophy of Andy Warhol.
personal, i.e. his body’s transitory status made
world. “A friend of mine named Ingrid from
The art world loves bestowing the status
evident through marking works physically
New Jersey came up with a new last name,
of ‘superstar’ on artists and, as we have
and allowing them to be contaminated by
just right for her new, loosely defined show-
observed throughout history, certain artists
the everyday through debris – dust, dirt,
business career. She called herself ‘Ingrid
suddenly get elevated to this position for a
touching and walking on canvas, etc. all of
Superstar’. I’m positive Ingrid invented
variety of reasons, depending on taste, trends
which feature in his process.
that word. At least, I invite anyone with
and the impact of the artwork on the cultural,
As critic Legacy Russell describes his
‘superstar’ clippings that predate Ingrid’s
social and political. From Da Vinci to Picasso,
work, “Murillo explores in his practice — a
to show them to me. The more parties we
Basquiat, Koons, Hirst and select YBAs, the
manifestation of a body in transit, an artist’s
went to, the more they wrote her name in
media is constantly flooded with news of the
incisive inquiry into the geographies of
the papers, Ingrid Superstar, and ‘superstar’
next art stars and the astronomical amounts
space, both on the canvas and off, within
222
Display of the artist’s work during a recent exhibition
Lottery Ticket, Oscar Murillo, as showcased at the South London Gallery
the studio and out into the world beyond.”
As Mera Rubell reflects on knowing and
that he describes by saying, “I was also trying
This transference of private to public is evident
supporting Murillo over the last few years:
to address the commodification of race and
in two important institutional showings of
“I don’t talk about artists like stock, like a
social practice in the arts.”
Murillo’s works, both in 2012, with a US
commodity. But, what I can talk about is
The media, according to art historian Josh
exhibition at the Rubell Family Collection,
Oscar as a person. The prices are what they
Damien, has “affected the evolution of art
Miami, and another at South London Gallery,
are, but what I know about him is that he
just as it has done for other areas of self-
London. For his London exhibition, Murillo
is making great work. And, it’s not like he’s
expression…. It has brought out voyeuristic
transferred his studio contents into the gallery
making work for the market – he’s conscious
tendencies in some arenas, while causing
to create an installation that was always in
of it, of course, but if anything, he tries to
others to shun the involvement of the
a state of progress and never complete.
block all of that noise and make the work
contemporary world in exchange for fanciful,
Packaging from foodstuffs and materials
that he is compelled to make. This is one of
more romantic times”. Speaking of Murillo
used in his everyday work and life referenced
the reasons he goes back to Colombia so
solely in terms of ‘the market’ reduces the
everything from the exhibition title, if i was to
frequently, to reconnect with the meaning of
complexities of his largely political work
draw a line, this journey started approximately
his life. Oscar is one of those artists who is
that never shies away from his migratory
400km north of the equator, to his own cultural
fortunate to have created a public platform
experiences to a commodity. And, as we are
background, and the power and relative
and I think he is very conscious of having a
well aware, the artist has little control as to
cultural impact of countries existing outside
voice that is being heard. That’s a big deal.
what status or value is placed on his or her
an Anglo-American context. This factory-
He is one of the great talented younger artists
work. The best artists will continue to test
cum-studio set-up importantly highlighted
in the world today, whether the auction prices
the limits of what they are doing, regardless
the relationship between art making labour,
are sustained or not… who cares!”
of if a market or any other labelling deems
authorship and value. His Rubell Family
Murillo’s work can be seen to be attacking
them as stars or what not. Perhaps, one can
Collection showing was in the context of
privilege, capitalism, and globalism, but
argue that Murillo is now at a stage where
one of the world’s largest, privately owned
paradoxically hangs in the homes of the
he is looking inwards and is more reflective
contemporary art collections, founded by
international art-collecting class. It seems
of his art practice and the boom around his
philanthropist couple Mera and Don Rubell,
as though this paradoxical position is being
work, which he had little control over. To stay
which supports the work of young artists by
challenged by the artist now, as his newly
at the top of the art game today, some would
offering them a residency programme and
opened exhibition, through patches of corn,
argue, an artist needs not just talent and a
giving them an opportunity to exhibit work
wheat and mud, at David Zwirner in New
good track record, but also a flair for publicity
in the foundation’s gallery spaces. For the
York, presents – as the press release states
and the support of a powerful consortium of
exhibition, Work, Murillo spent five weeks prior
– a ‘consolidation of Murillo’s early emphasis
dealers and collectors. London-based artist
as a resident on site, transforming parts of
on personal cultural experiences with a
and designer, Ifeanyi Oganwu, aptly reminds
the 60x60ft collection gallery and sculpture
broader exploration of the different roles and
us that “a great artist’s success rests solely
garden into his personal studio, replicating
possibilities of artists within an increasingly
on his or her ability to push the limits of their
his fervent working process. Canvases were
global world. It takes its point of departure
artistic language and practice. The market is a
spread on the floors like rugs, carpets or even
in his recent travels and exhibitions, allowing
necessary distraction, but the best ones push
a yoga mat (Murillo has used his canvases in
for an at-once introspective and radical look
ahead no matter the weather”.
this way in previous performances) all laid out
at his practice to date’.
Whilst artworks reflect a singular approach
to be worked on and walked upon, eventually
Prior to this show, he recently made headlines
that characterises our cultural moment, artists
forming a curated hang of a selection of five
for destroying his British passport mid-flight to
will continue to negotiate and mediate on art’s
large-scale works.
the Sydney Biennial, interpreted as a protest
ever-changing role in society.
224
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Photographed by Sarvenaz Hashtroudi, styled by Sophie Pasztor
f i n al n ote
Photographed by Anthony Arquier
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