ISSUE 45 by MOJEH

NÂ° 45 MARCH

SOUL OF SPRING

CALIBER RM 07-01

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22 Chairman SHAHAB IZADPANAH

EDITORIAL

PUBLISHING

Editor in Chief MOJEH IZADPANAH

Publishing Director RADHIKA NATU

Associate Editor SHERI IZADPANAH

Senior Publishing Executive DESIREE LABANDA-GAVERIA

Managing Editor KELLY BALDWIN

Junior Publishing Assistant kisada hurin

Senior Fashion Writer Mary KeEnan

Advertising Manager Sian Hayes

Fashion Writer Laura Beaney

Paris Representative GHISLAIN DE CASTELBAJAC

Lifestyle Writer Annie Darling

Advertising Inquiries Tel: +971 4 553 90 49 Email: advertising@mojeh.com

Senior Editorial Assistant Sophie pasztor

Subscription Tel: +971 4 553 90 49 Email: subs@mojeh.com

Guest Fashion Stylists Sonia Bedere DaVian Lain Simona Melegari Karolina Tomaszewicz

Online Division ALI ROMAN Afreen Khwaja

MOJEH Men Group Peter Iantorno Dmitri Ruwan

LOUIS FOURTEEN FOR MOJEH Concierge Service Management daisy marchant

ART

Corporate Manager JUBRAN HAMATI

Producers Mojeh Magazine and LOUIS AGENCY

Published under HS Media Group FZ LLC Registered at Dubai Design District Building No. 8, Offices 212 P.O.Box 502333, Dubai, UAE.

Art Director AMIRREZA AMIRASLANI Deputy Art Director Richard Lee Graphic Designer Balaji Mahendran Contributing Photographers Thierno Sy Joseph Paradiso Yuki Tseng Carla Guler Massimo Zanusso Greg Adamski

Photographed by Joseph Paradiso and Yuki Tseng, model wears Chanel

WWW.MOJEH.COM Louis Fourteen for MOJEH Follow us on Twitter @MOJEH_Magazine MOJEH Swiss Representative Office: Rue de Rive 4, 1204 Geneva, Switzerland Average qualified circulation (January-June 2016): 12,275 copies. For the UAE printed by Emirates Printing Press LLC. Distribution- UAE: Al Nisr Distribution LLC. Qatar: Dar Al Sharq. Bahrain: Jashanmal & Sons BSC (C). Oman: United Media Services LLC. Lebanon: Messageries Du Moyen-Orient The publishers regret that they cannot accept liability for error or omissions contained in this publication, however caused. The opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessary those of the publishers. Readers are advised to seek specialist advice before acting on information contained in this publication which is provided for general use and may not be appropriate for the readers particular circumstances. The ownership of trademark is acknowledged, therefore reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. All credits are subjects to change. Copyright HS MEDIA GROUP FZ LLC 2011

M o j eh C o ntent s

Fashion & trends 80. Strive For Style The Dior girl, brand ambassador and mother of three, tells us how she’s seeing in spring with superior style.

102. Inside An Odyssey The kaleidoscopic world of Mary Katrantzou’s latest collection is mesmerising. We delve inside.

112. Spring/Summer17 Trends From Eighties aesthetics to Eastern influence and accessories examined, MOJEH shares the seminal trends for the season ahead.

170. Couture In Focus The enchanting universe of couture yields fashion’s most precious pieces. MOJEH marks out the remarkable moments from January’s shows.

Tod’s Boutiques • Dubai: Mall Of The Emirates - The Dubai Mall - Galeries Lafa Abu Dhabi: Marina Mall yette, Level Shoe Distric - The Galleria Al Maryah t Island

Health & Beauty 274. Spring/Summer17 Hair and Beauty Choppy crops and powdery pink eyes make a play for a prominent role in springtime beauty.

292. Timeless Torso As 50 becomes the new 30, we discover what it takes to achieve the coveted ageless body.

Accessories

256. The Wind Up From frosted finery to the technology shaping time, MOJEH unmasks the horological highpoints from this yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s SIHH.

264. A Golden Inheritance Forging a powerful bond between tradition and today, we bear witness to the trend for repurposed heirloom jewels.

A B U D H A B I T H E G A L L E R I A A L M A R YA H I S L A N D D U B A I M A L L O F T H E E M I R AT E S D O H A V I L L A G G I O M A L L J E D D A H K H AY YAT C E N T E R R I YA D H C E N T R I A M A L L K U WA I T C I T Y T H E AV E N U E S P R E S T I G E M A N A M A B A H R A I N C I T Y C E N T R E S A K S F I F T H AV E N U E

Photoshoots 60. Bare Bones Our spring attire succumbs to the purity of a crisp white palette.

204. Coastal Bliss The bridge between the beach and high fashion is founded in feathered finery, folds of light lace and beaded fishnet.

222. Graphic Daze The days of disco drive billowing sleeves and brown/beige palettes into prominence, while futuristic finishings take us forward.

296. Power Palette The loaded looks of the Eighties command attention and call for palettes of punchy plums, impassioned pinks and rich reds.

Dubai: Dubai Mall, Marina Mall, Mall of the Emirates, The Walk JBR Abu Dhabi: Yas Mall elisabettafranchi.com

Arts & Culture 52. Art or Vanity? A pastime for posers or testament to our times? MOJEH decodes the semiotics behind the selfie.

74. Creative Catalyst In a climate of crisis, we speculate on the resurgence of a creative counterculture.

society Women

56. My Stylish Life We absorb the style synergy of Californiabased designer, Anine Bing.

314. Convergence of the Contemporaries Making Middle Eastern art her business and passion, acclaimed collector and entrepreneur Maliha Al-Tabari sits down with MOJEH.

E d i t o r ’s L ette r

Spring’s New Statement Photographed by Thierno Sy

Audacious, punchy, and on-point: Three words to sum up the new collections. In just a few short months, fashion has really upped the momentum, and the pendulum has swung from pared back and minimal to functional yet maximal. Escapism, perhaps, from the subdued and troubling state of the world, or maybe we’ve just tired of the overly wearable and normcore movements of recent pasts, but either way, we’re more than happy to take a great big dive head-first into the jovial prints, punchy colour statements and miles of materials. What captivated our attention most through the spring/summer runway shows was how well in tune designers were with the Middle Eastern woman. From Eastern-influenced designs and our love for the brilliantly bold trench to washes of high octane colour, such as gold and cherry reds, our hearts were racing from the start till end of the fashion month. In a similar manner, the hair and beauty trends set out an excess of options, from the new way to wear your smoky eye – heavy on the colour and even bolder on the lips – to visions of midnight and regal blues. This month’s fashion shoots set the style wheels in motion, and showcase the varying ways to edit your options and take on the trends in a wearable and functional way, from an all-white affair, where attention falls towards structure and layers, to a focus on the fabrics to accompany you on your first beachside trip of the year. This season was made for style statements – these are the months to experiment and explore.

Follow me on Twitter and Instagram @Mojeh_I and write to me at editor@mojeh.com

Mojeh Izadpanah Editor in Chief

Photographed by Hana Predajnianska

you, so look towards your staple buys, but don’t shy away from new

E d i t o r â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s SN A P SHOT s

Flash Forward

1&2

Break through fashion constraints and favour styles that go against the grain. Whether it be a transparent boot, an unlikely architectural silhouette or a daring union of colour, experimentation is essential. Your beauty look should also reflect this movement, so opt for gravity defying mascaras and statement polishes. 1. JIMMY CHOO | 2. DIOR BEAUTY | 3. GUERLAIN | 4. YEEZY @stylebop | 5. LOUIS VUITTON | 6. DELFINA DELETTREZ | 7. SUZANNE KALAN | 8. DELPOZO

S t yl e N ote

B l o c k

W o r k Put your best foot forward with chunky blocked heels that are both practical and elegant. Designers such as Giuseppe Zanotti and Le Silla welcome the warmer weather with a plethora of summer styles, perfect for weekends spent outdoors.

Photographed by Borna Ahadi, styled by Sophie Pasztor

Top to bottom: LE SILLA at Harvey Nichols - Dubai | SERGIO ROSSI at Harvey Nichols - Dubai | GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI

S t yl e N ote

The

Glass Guide

Get face-to-face with reflective lenses that infuse a jolt of colour into summer styling. Their polarised appearance presents a mysterious matrix mode with notable futuristic elements.

Photographed by Borna Ahadi, styled by Sophie Pasztor

Top to bottom: EMPORIO ARMANI | CHLOĂ&#x2030; | RAY BAN

S t yl e Note

Powde re d

Pa l e t t e s Update your wardrobe neutrals with muted tones of dove grey and dusty pink. These soft hues will work to balance your look and provide an alternative to flesh-coloured pieces.

Photographed by Borna Ahadi, styled by Sophie Pasztor

Left to right: Shoe, GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI | sunglasses, EMPORIO ARMANI | bag, MARNI | belt, BOTTEGA VENETA | bag, CHLOÃ&#x2030;

M OJEH I nter v i e w

Five Minutes With

Delfina Delettrez We speak to Delfina Delettrez Fendi about her contemporary jewellery designs, balancing motherhood and a career, and what it was like to grow up in one of fashion’s most important families. Interview by Mary Keenan

What is the most precious piece of jewellery

One who understands and appreciates the

you own?

richness of good design. A woman who wants

An aquamarine brooch that my grandmother

to break the rules by experimenting with jewellery

gave me when I was born.

on different parts of her body.

You seem to take a lot of inspiration from

You come from one of fashion’s most

surrealism; which artist has influenced

storied families, so how has your heritage

your designs?

shaped your brand?

René Magritte’s work has appealed to me since

It’s shaped it from the beginning – you could

childhood. I’d always try to fill in the gaps of the

say I was raised on fashion and bread. It was

faces he would paint.

all around me growing up, but in a very subtle and natural way. We would all sit and have lunch

Describe a typical workday for you.

on a Sunday and we’d speak about the weather

I always take my daughter to school in the

and the latest trends. It made me ready for the

morning. Workdays in Rome are spent running

industry – I knew what I was going to face and

around my magic triangle – the atelier, the studio

was aware of the level of work required to stay

and the boutique. I also try to take half an hour

true to your vision.

each day to discover new parts of the city. How do you balance being a mother and What do you think sets your brand apart from

a businesswoman?

other jewellery designers?

I’m used to it because they were born together.

Fashion is in my DNA, and I apply my upbringing

My first collection was presented at Colette a

to jewellery codes.

month after I gave birth. My pregnancy infused me with strength and my daughter continues

How would you describe your personal style?

to inspire me; my collections are in homage to

I’m quite obsessive – if I wear stripes, I’ll wear

her. I want her to be present in every aspect

them head-to-toe. I also like wearing uniforms

of the business, not just the final result when

in black, blue, grey and white. I tend to choose

everyone’s happy and relaxed. She comes to

a theme and stick to it.

the atelier often.

What type of woman do you think is drawn

Do you feel that jewellery is a form of art?

to your designs?

Yes, of course: It’s the art of adornment.

Photographed by Borna Ahadi, styled by Sophie Pasztor

Statement Straps Whether looped into trousers, belted over tops or doubled-up for high-impact drama, statement belts are the seasonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most coveted accessory. Pick from either bold hues, loud prints or an oversized buckle.

Top to bottom: BOTTEGA VENETA | MARNI | DOLCE&GABBANA | ELISABETTA FRANCHI

FA SHION IN F O C U S

Navy Knockout

Compiled by Sophie Pasztor

8 2

Neo Grunge

The spawn of punk music, press studs, ripped denim and a nonconformist attitude â&#x20AC;&#x201C; soft grunge emerges as a runway favourite. Look to mesh details and contemporary jolts of considered colour that will satisfy your edgier side. 1. SAINT LAURENT | 2. ETRO @stylebop | 3. PICCHIOTTI | 4. COACH | 5. LOUIS VUITTON | 6. GUCCI | 7. ELISABETTA FRANCHI | 8. PRADA

Heavy Metal What was once reserved for evening soirÃ©es has now diversified into daywear. Couple Saint Laurent Slingback Pumps with a casual white blouse and copper skirt for daytime dealings, or channel Eighties disco days with metallic accessories that are both understated and powerful. 1. SAINT LAURENT | 2. ROLAND MOURET | 3. SUZANNE KALAN | 4. BOTTEGA VENETA | 5. BVLGARI | 6. DELFINA DELETTREZ | 7. ROLAND MOURET | 8. STELLA MCCARTNEY

1 9

Moroccan Spice 2

While organic hues of burnt orange, rich mocha and powdered red call to mind exotic Morocco, maintaining an aspect of refinement will preserve a modern aesthetic. Look out for subtle details, such as a flared sleeve or kitsch pom-poms, to reinstate the origins of the trend.

S t yl e N ote

The Line-Up Stripes were seen on the runways, racing in every direction with opposing widths, and in eye-catching colours. Look to Balenciagaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Bazar Shopper bag for a dose of athleisure or Dolce&Gabbanaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Piano-inspired Mary

Photographed by Borna Ahadi, styled by Sophie Pasztor

Janes for a sense of the whimsical.

Left to right: Bracelets, MARNI | bag, BALENCIAGA | shoe, DOLCE&GABBANA | bag, GUCCI

M OJEH N ew s

March makes its mark on our cultural calendar with a rich array of offerings. From Hockney’s unmissable moment at the Tate Britain to Art Dubai’s highly anticipated return, MOJEH acts as your cultural compass.

The 11th edition of the arts fair will feature 92 galleries from 44 countries, including 11 from Iran, the highest contribution to date. Highlights include the unveiling of the Abraaj Group Art Prize, the most significant art prize in the region, and guests will be able to discover Art Dubai Modern, the only platform dedicated to showcasing museum-quality works by modern masters from the Middle East, Africa and South Asia. Madinat Jumeirah, Dubai

But We Cannot See Them: Tracing a UAE Underground, 1985 – 2008 2 March – 25 May Community has played a key role in every modern art historical breakthrough. This exhibition focuses on the regional community of artists, referred to as ‘the five’. An intersection of visual artists, writers, and filmmakers based in the UAE, its members identify with a new culture encouraging radical, formal and conceptual experimentation. In tandem with this exhibition, The NYUAD Art Gallery is publishing a book of interviews with the artists. The Art Gallery at NYU Abu Dhabi

Images courtesy of Art Dubai, NYU Abu Dhabi, Beirut Exhibition Center, Tate Britain and MoMU, Antwerp

Culture Coming

Art Dubai 15 – 18 March

Biography of a Head by Sadik Alfraji 6 March – 13 April Renowned Iraqi artist Sadik Alfraji presents a range of recent work in the mediums of drawing, painting and video. The works highlight Alfraji’s elemental figure, an elongated male painted in shades of black, who appears in almost all of art works featured in the exhibition, reflecting the artist’s interest in existential philosophy and the writings of Samuel Beckett and Jean-Paul Sartre. Beirut Exhibition Center, Beirut

David Hockney 9 February – 29 May From turquoise Los Angeles pools to Yorkshire landscapes and sausage dogs in sequence, as we approach the iconic artist’s 80th birthday, this exhibition reveals an extensive selection of David Hockney’s most celebrated pieces. Cutting across painting, drawing, print, photography and video spanning over six decades, Hockney continues to change and challenge his style according to new technologies. Displaying some works that have never been seen by the public eye, this is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity. Tate Britain, London

Margiela: The Hermès Years 31 March – 27 August We eagerly await the opening of this seminal show that displays collections from the six years that Belgian avant-garde stylist Martin Margiela worked at Hermès. The 12 collections created between 1997 and 2003 highlight the designer’s groundbreaking appeal, with a penchant for the deconstruction, recycling and recovery of materials that was unheard of in the fashion world before. MoMU, Antwerp

Tal k ing P o i nt

Art or Vanity? Does the act of photographing ourselves make us narcissistic, or are selfies the most recent reinterpretation of a long-established art form?

Cindy Sherman, Untitled Film Still #21, 1977, Gelatin silver print, 20.3 x 25.4cm, Courtesy of the artist and Metro Pictures, New York

Words by Annie Darling

A model takes a selfie as she walks the Dolce&Gabbana fashion show at Milan Fashion Week spring/summer16

Art is, foremost, a medium of self-expression

that self-absorption among Millennials is directly

with infinite possibilities. It surpasses the

linked to social media feeds. “Selfies are often

paintbrush, embraces the present, and

derided as an inane form of expression, yet they

looks towards the future with a bright and

can convey a mood, create a scene or tell a

infectious optimism. This is partially due to

story,” clarifies Hurst.

the fact that ‘art’ is such an ambiguous term,

He adds: “Selfies are often consciously staged in

one that is consistently challenged, modified

terms of the composition, the colours, lighting,

and reinterpreted – which is what the Saatchi

backdrop, and that artistic intent and element of

Gallery, London, intends to do with its latest

pre-production is an important factor in framing

exhibition, From Selfie to Self-Expression.

selfies in an artful way.” After all, classical

By reclaiming the selfie from the clutches of

painters have been referred to as the original

narcissism, From Selfie to Self-Expression

masters of the selfie. Several renowned artists,

attempts to present this phenomenon as an

including Vincent van Gogh and Rembrandt,

integral and long-practiced form of creativity. Nigel

were particularly fond of self-portraiture. “Is it

Hurst, chief executive officer at the gallery, argues

narcissism or is it a more accessible form of self-

that the selfie signals a significant shift in society,

representation?” Hurst contemplates. “In selfies

spearheaded by the use of technology. “Art often

and self-portraiture, we take ownership of our

provides a very useful historical document of

own image, which may have been stereotyped,

the cultural, social and political climate of the

misused or even totally ignored.”

particular period of time in which it was made,”

Rembrandt’s workmanship is scattered around

he tells MOJEH. “Selfies have become a huge

the world in various museums and private

part of our contemporary culture.”

collections, and his drawings intimately document

Recent statistics tell a persuasive story of self-

his life until his death, aged 63, in 1669. “In the

obsession. More than 80 million photographs are

17th Century, it was only artists who had the

uploaded to Instagram every day, while some

tools to create self-portraits, whereas we now all

1.4 billion people – 20 per cent of the world’s

have the wherewithal through our smartphones,”

population – regularly update their Facebook

explains Hurst. There is one fundamental

profile. It’s difficult, however, to confidently argue

difference between historical self-portraits and

Vincent van Gogh, Self-Portrait with Bandaged Ear, 1889, Oil on canvas, 60.5 x 50cm, Courtesy of The Samuel Courtauld Trust, The Courtauld Gallery, London

Rembrandt van Rijn, Self-Portrait with Two Circles, c. 1665-69, Oil on canvas, 114.3 cm x 94cm, Courtesy of Kenwood House, Iveagh Bequest/English Heritage

the selfies of today, however: A traditional

amateur photographers from the restraints of

her daughter, Chelsea, tweeted a joint picture

artist’s renderings involve a long process of

the darkroom. Since then, according to a recent

of them taken on her phone at arm’s length.

self-examination.

Ofcom communications report, 60 per cent of

The trend has even reached outer space:

“Selfies aren’t like self-portraiture in the way that

mobile phone users now own a smartphone,

British astronaut Major Tim Peake posted a

a Rembrandt self-portrait is. He seems to be

while a survey of more than 800 teenagers by

‘space selfie’ from the International Space

trying to get to the bottom of what makes him a

the Pew Research Centre found that 91 per cent

Station, in which you could see the Earth

human being. He shares his common humanity

posted photos of themselves online – up from 79

reflecting in his helmet’s visor.

and what is unique about his character, which

per cent in 2006. “The camera roll of a teenager

So, perhaps Hurst is right; perhaps we

is evident from his face and demeanour. Most

trying out various poses can by no means be

should think twice before writing off the selfie

selfies are constructs; more to do with how we

compared to the skill and rigour of Van Gogh’s

phenomenon. After all, we’re living in a digital

want the world to see ourselves, and also our

Self Portrait (1889),” admits Hurst, “but the art

age, a world of endless opportunities and

lifestyle, our environment and our social world,

world cannot ignore the selfie phenomenon.”

bragging possibilities. The widespread use

rather than how we really are.”

These self-portraits may be worlds – and

of selfies by social media users means that

The first photographic self-portrait was taken

decades – apart, but they share a common

we’re becoming accustomed to interactions

in 1839, when daguerreotype pioneer Robert

component in that they document our lives

that revolve around images and, if history has

Cornelius snapped a picture of himself outside

and, by doing so, leave behind memories for

taught us anything, we should consider whether

his family’s store in Philadelphia. There was

future generations to discover. Former president

self-portraiture could help us learn something

also some experimentation with the selfie in the

Barack Obama’s daughters, Sasha and Malia,

valuable about ourselves, as well as others.

Seventies, most notably by Andy Warhol and

made headlines when they took selfies at his

From Selfie to Self-Expression runs from March

Stevie Nicks, when the Polaroid camera freed

second inauguration, as did Hillary Clinton when

31 to May 30, 2017, at Saatchi Gallery, London.

The Other Conversation

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S o c i ety W o m en

My Stylish Life:

Anine Bing

Anine wears vintage BING tee, white jeans and Elly pumps in red suede from Anine Bing

Photographed by William Callan, interviewed by Sophie Pasztor

Anine Bingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s back-to-basics style and cool girl attitude has led her on a path of success. We caught up with the Danish-born and California-based designer as she unveils plans for her eponymous label.

Anine wears lace sweatshirt and vintage wash jeans from Anine Bing

Motto to live by: You know when you know

cherished possession: My wedding ring |

appear in the upcoming month’s campaign.

| Best advice: You can only create your own

Most exciting event in your diary for March:

The brand will jet-set to the respective city of

happiness | Person who has taught you the

I have so many exciting trips planned for this

chosen talent, produce each shoot and launch

most: My husband and my kids. They are

year and they’re all tied to our new campaign

the campaign on Instagram | Goals for the year

the centre of my universe | What inspires

called #AroundtheworldinANINEBING | Talk

ahead: I have a lot of focus on growing the

you the most: I love flea markets and street

us through it: Over the next 12 months, I will

business, but I also have some more personal

style pictures, especially of women who are

travel across the globe to meet with the women

goals, one of them being finding and buying a

wearing Anine Bing styled in their unique

who have, in essence, become a part of the

new house in Los Angeles | Song on repeat:

way | Biggest turning point in your career:

brand’s growth and success through their active

Fade Into You by Mazzy Star | Describe your

When I first launched my brand. I decided to

social media engagement | How does it work:

interior style: Danish minimalism meets LA

run with it and truly believe in what I wanted

The campaign recruits followers via (hashtag)

bohemian chic | Travel must-haves: My phone,

to achieve | What has been your biggest

#AroundTheWorldinANINEBING, allowing

a good cleanser, moisturiser, and a warm

feat: My children for sure! | Person you’d

the brand to feature stylish real women who

cashmere sweater | Two things you couldn’t

most like to meet: It would have been fun to

embody and empower the company’s sense of

live without: My family and my best friends

have a coffee with Jane Birkin. I love her style

style and influence | Where will they be shot:

| Favourite beach destination: Bora Bora

and her life story seems fascinating | Most

Each month, one woman will be selected to

with my family | Favourite place in the world:

Los Angeles. I love this city! | Favourite travel partners: Travelling with kids can be tough, but they are my favourite people in the world, so I would have to choose them. I also love travelling with my old friend Emma, who is also working as our art director at Anine Bing. We always have so much fun together | Favourite fashion brands: I only wear my own brand, so naturally it’s at the top of my list. I also love

Anine wears lace sweatshirt, stripe detail track pants and Lily sneakers in white from Anine Bing

collecting vintage Chanel bags | Favourite LA designer: My friend Lisa, who is the founder and designer of Ragdoll LA, is amazing | Heels or flats: Flats on a daily basis, but I love a good

– blowpro is a favourite of mine | Favourite

wash my face with a cleanser, apply night cream

pair of heels for a night out | Style icon: Jane

beauty brand: Laura Mercier | Staple lipstick

and some eye cream if I have time | How do

Birkin | Signature style: Less is more. I don’t

and shade: I like a good lip gloss – By Terry

you stay in shape: Our office is on the 10th

like to overcomplicate things and nothing beats

makes a great one with the perfect touch of pink

floor and I always take the stairs every morning.

a good pair of denims, a leather jacket, and a

| Nail colour for March: Nude | Sun factor:

It’s a great way to get my blood pumping! It’s

great pair of boots | Favourite city to shop:

I’m a big fan of Dermalogica’s sunscreen. It’s

hard to find time for exercise right now, but I

New York is always great for shopping. I’m a big

not too heavy and it protects the skin well |

try to go for walks with my children during the

fan of the vintage shops you can find there and

Best health tip: Sleep a lot and drink plenty

weekends | What supplements do you take:

the cute boutiques in SoHo | Trend to covet

of water | Signature scent: Rose scents have

I drink a lot of green juices, which is an easy

for spring/summer17: I’m all about the Sixties

always been my favourite. Jo Malone is a go-to

and quick way for me to get my veggies and

and Seventies vibe. Embroidery, suede and raw

| Morning beauty regime: I’m fast. I wash my

fruits | Best workout: I love a good hike | At-

denim with a higher waist are on my mind | Go-

face, apply moisturiser, a creamy foundation,

sea or inland: I love to be by the sea at the

to hairdresser: Lisa Satorn – she is the best!

and a touch of cream blush; some mascara

beach | Indoors or outdoors: Indoors probably.

| Blow-dry or au naturel: Au naturel | Best

and lip gloss, too. I don’t like to have too much

I love just being at home with my children and

hair-treatment: Don’t wash your hair too often,

makeup and I like to keep it natural with a glow

husband on the weekends, playing games

and use a dry shampoo for some extra volume

| Evening beauty regime: At night, I always

and listening to music. It makes me happy.

23-25 MARCH 2017 DubAi Design DistRiCt

Bones 60

S t yl e N otes

B a r e

Bones

Tough tailoring or oversized and dishevelled? Layered or lax?

Marchâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s freshest colour note pulls us back to the days of crisp white palettes, allowing form and style to take centre stage.

Photographed by Greg Adamski Styled by Karolina Tomaszewicz

Punchy sliders offer a relaxed way to wear prim blouses and sharply tailored trousers. Swap out with kitten heels for office attire. Vest, shirt, trousers and shoes, DOLCE&GABBANA

Athleisure lives on, with jovial injections of bright tones and offbeat prints. Wear clean cuts and donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t overthink accessories. Dress and shoes, LOUIS VUITTON

Dark accessories offer an element of grunge without erasing the innocence of white. Select pieces that encourage an edgier demeanour. Earring, REPOSSI | necklace, DRIES VAN NOTEN | shirt, DKNY

A soft, fresh hue allows the overcoat to live on long into the summer. Wear with short dresses and athletic shoes for a nonchalant approach. Coat, SPORTMAX | earrings, WOUTERS&HENDRIX | shoes, DKNY

The right white suit will transcend seasons. Opt for a classic Le Smoking style and donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be afraid to prise out finer details in both fabric and print. Suit, ZADIG&VOLTAIRE | shoes, SANDRO PARIS | bracelet, WOUTERS&HENDRIX

Unravel hair and focus on natural movement to offset the austerity of white. Keep your complexion clean and shy away from colour. Vest and shirt, DOLCE&GABBANA

The shirtdress makes its reprisal for spring/summer17. Inject an ounce of colour and wear loose and dishevelled, to ensure a less uniformed route. Shirt, DKNY | shoes, CĂ&#x2030;LINE I rings, REPOSSI

Take note: The backpack remains an accessory staple for the months ahead. Hit refresh and invest in neutral tones to carry you through the summer. Backpack and dress, Ă ERON I jacket, DKNY

Feminine flair reigns strong with free-flowing pleats and crepe fabrics. Add an ounce of streetwear in a bid to avoid too much girliness. Dress, Ă ERON | jacket, DKNY I ring, WOUTERS&HENDRIX

Traditional rules to wear white are left wailing in the wind as we mesh with ivory and cream. Play with structure and form for a tomboyish take on the trend. Shirt, VALENTINO | trousers, DRIES VAN NOTEN |

bracelet, WOUTERS&HENDRIX

Play down the smoky eye with soft strokes of golden hues, blended up towards the brows. A high neck remains a key take-home from the winter collections. Top, DIOR | necklace, REPOSSI

Break up the monotony of maxi lengths with sharp slits and rogue accessories. The key is to keep the form long and lean, avoiding overloud arrangements. Coat, SPORTMAX | shirt, trousers, cuff and shoes, ANN DEMEULEMEESTER

Model: Aliz Menyhert at Art Models Budapest Makeup artist: Richard Fazekas Hair stylist: Mark Karolyi Styling assistant: Iryna Skyba Photography assistants: Adam Foldi Balazs Bihari

M O J EH Fa s h io n

The zeitgeist for â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;coming togetherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; is none more apparent than in fashion, where designers from Gucci to Paul Smith (pictured) revoked segregated shows, showing menswear and womenswear as one

Images courtesy of WRDSMTH, Lawrie Shabibi and, Sarah Beydoun and Getty photographed by Keystone/Hulton Archive and Jeff J Mitchell

reative Catalys Creative Catalyst

It has been argued that some of the most important creative and intellectual movements have developed during times of turmoil and upheaval. With the current climate of social and political unrest, MOJEH asks: Can we expect a new creative counterculture?

Words by Laura Beaney

Amid the Vietnam War (1969), Yoko Ono and John Lennon staged a two-week â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;bed-insâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; peaceful protest

76 There is no concept more politically poignant today than creativity. In the narrowest sense, creativity refers directly to the arts, but in the broadest, we can understand it as activities encompassing architecture, fashion, design, music, and technological development. There are also less obvious creative acts that come from the individual, like the arrangement of one’s personal style, a self-made recipe, or setting up an organisation that addresses a local problem. Creative outputs vary according to location, Andy Warhol’s politically charged portraits predicted today’s blurred boundaries between public office and celebrity

affiliation and culture, but in recent years, our globalised society has felt the impact and oppression of political forces like Al Qaeda, and ISIS. The journalists of Charlie Hebdo are one example, where creativity became a target – it is no coincidence that when a movement seeks to destroy a society, they first burn the books. And, while art and expression have always been cause for political contention, many important intellectual and artistic endeavours come into fruition amid hostile circumstances; we only have to look to post-Soviet Berlin to see this. Few places are free from fear and uncertainty today, but will this time of unrest have a positive influence on people’s creation? During the Sixties, the Black Panthers and the anti-Vietnam protests at Berkeley marched to the psychedelic sounds of Jefferson Airplane and Janis Joplin. There were also the artists who defined aesthetics. Andy Warhol’s coloured Reflecting fashion’s current climate of unity and inclusivity, Louis Vuitton’s autumn/ winter17 collection saw the label collaborate with sportswear brand, Supreme

incarnations of 20th Century leaders fuelled an ongoing debate regarding the interplay between politics and pop culture (we wonder what Warhol would make of America’s president today?) and all the while, scientists at Stanford University were exhibiting their own kind of creativity, laying the foundations for what we now know as the Silicon Valley. “I was a part of that counterculture,” says Diana Raab, PhD, an educator, who holds workshops in writing for healing, “Burning incense, wearing the American flag around my shoulders, and reading in bed with a black light shining on anti-war posters.” Raab is typical of the Sixties youth on both sides of the Atlantic, a generation that used music, art and psychedelic style to reject racism, warfare and repression. Like the stamp of each generation, the Sixties aesthetic remains instantly recognisable, but what might our counterculture look like today? “It’s important to remember that each

Part of the #7575Melrose movement that draws together creatives within the Los Angeles community, WRDSMTH is a former copywriter and published author, who uses street art to communicate messages of positivity

counterculture has a message — in the 1960s, it was peace and love,” recalls Raab. “What will ours be? Acceptance without racism? That’s what needs to be decided. Art is a reflection of the times.” The forms of oppression in today’s urban daily life are as varied as the modes that rebuke them, from those imposed by the workplace to the ideological kind. And, while

At a time when Hillary Clinton was rising through the ranks, Gareth Pugh’s autumn/winter16 collection took female empowerment a step further, fronting the idea of female authority in his works

distinct subcultures like the Hippies and Punks

examples,” says Andreas Behnke, author of

intellect, having obtained a PhD in Political

might have died out before the Millennium, there

The International Politics of Fashion: Being Fab

Science; the designer was also a card-holding

have always been those that seek to define

in a Dangerous World (Popular Culture and

member of Italy’s Communist party.

themselves against the masses. “There will

World Politics). What was once a closed-off

Major designers in the West aim to open

always be a counterculture,” says Raab. “As

and elitist industry now pushes the message

people’s eyes to recent political issues through

humans, we have differing opinions. Whenever

of inclusivity described by Raab. The structures

their collections or by voting on their feet,

significant change occurs, we can expect the

for Fashion Weeks have changed to co-host

like Tom Ford, Philip Lim and Marc Jacobs,

emergence of counterculture activities.” These

both menswear and womenswear, while trends

who were among the many who refused to

activities take on an entirely different form today.

for genderless clothing, and cross-brand

dress Melania Trump. But, the key players

Now, YouTubers in Saudi Arabia make the digital

collaborations from partnerships like Louis

in the East have honed their skills in spite of

realm their channel for self-expression, with

Vuitton and Supreme call us to unite. Designers

uncertainly. Couturier Elie Saab grew up amid

women like Hessa al-Awwad discussing anime

like Gareth Pugh took direct inspiration from the

Beirut’s civil war, a time that saw his city rebuilt

before her 375,000 subscribers and Al-Juhara

US election process for autumn/winter16, using

and destroyed. Despite the destruction, he

Sajer talking beauty to 250,000. Afghanistan

the ambition of Hillary Clinton as the starting

credits his city with his success and inspiration;

is known for its all-girl skate gangs, while

point from which to explore authoritative

today, his seamstresses continue to work

Tokyo’s youth have been rebelling against

females, while labels like Prada referenced

there. While designers like Elie Saab, and

their homogenous society for decades, using

the Seventies for autumn/winter17 through a

Zuhair Murad have made their mark dressing

childlike dress as a means of differentiation from

menswear collection that called for politicisation

A-listers in exquisite gowns, there are those

the dull expectations of adult life.

and normalcy. “I didn’t want to do the 1970s,”

who use their position to transform local

Fashion, like art, has always found its creative

said Miuccia Prada, backstage at her fashion

practices. “Essentially, Sarah’s Bag is about

fuel in the most unlikely places. “One of the

show in Milan. “But it just came out, naturally.

using design to tackle a social issue,” says

most interesting aspects [of fashion] is how

It was an important moment for protest, for

Sarah Beydoun, whose artisanal handbags

the idea of femininity is re-created after wars –

humanity. Which is now very necessary.” Her

are crafted by female prisoners in her native

The Flappers of the 1920s and the New Look

collection makes sense given her background:

Lebanon. “We want to make a difference in the

of Christian Dior in the 1940s stand out as

Prada is widely described as fashion’s greatest

lives of underprivileged women, by empowering

78 them and teaching them skills that will allow

regionally and now on an international scale, with

conveners for the kind of cosmopolitanism and

them to become financially independent.”

Christie’s Dubai holding its first auction of Middle

multiculturalism that Trump’s nativist ‘America

Beydoun’s brand is one of the many Lebanese

Eastern art in 2006. The first lot, Shakir Hassan

first’ rhetoric has put squarely in the cross-

labels to flourish despite the region’s tumultuous

Al Saïd’s The Peasant, more than tripled its

hairs.” Art can both question and console.

history. “In difficult times, beautiful works of art

original estimate of AED 36,728, selling at AED

While Abdin’s works tackles provocative topics

can inspire and show people that things are not

114,591. “The Middle East is a very essential

like Jihad, assault, adultery and faith, others

as bad as they seem. Art is a form of resistance

location, and anything that happens in it affects

like Los Angeles-based street artist WRDSMTH

and an expression of resilience,” says Beydoun,

us all,” says contemporary artist Adel Abdin,

perpetuate sentiments of positivity when society

who believes Lebanon’s turmoil pushed her to

an Iraqi living between Helsinki and Amman,

needs them most. “I used to see graffiti on walls

take creative risks and expand to international

who uses multimedia to communicate ideas

when I was a kid, and I always wondered, who

markets. “Even though the past decade has

surrounding politics, and identity. “My works

did it? Why did they do it? And when did they

been very difficult for us economically and

have argued many matters within this geographic

do it? When I relocated to Los Angeles from

politically, we have seen the art and design scene

area. I believe that art and the execution of art

the Midwest, I was so inspired by all the street

flourish. I expect something similar will happen

should start from a local point of departure,

art here,” says WRDSMTH, an author who took

in the US and the UK.”

leading it to internationalism.” On the matter of

to street art as a means to escape the writing

When it comes to technological development,

this international interplay, LA Times architecture

desk. “When I decided my art would be word-

the Middle East is hampered by the clash

critic, Christopher Hawthorn, recently wrote

based, I immediately envisioned a typewriter….

between science and Islam, and laws regarding

about how the design infrastructure of America’s

All the words are written by me, which is why

protests prohibit marches, but expression comes

ports of entry served as curious stages for

the endeavour is so creatively fulfilling.” Captions

in other ways. Interest in modern art from the

acts of civil disobedience surrounding Donald

like ‘Dream Bigger’ flow from the famous red

Middle East, has been gaining traction, first

Trump’s travel ban. “Airports,” he writes, “are

phone boxes in London, across the street from

Adel Abidin draws upon his experiences as an Iraqi living in Helsinki, exploring the complex relationship between visual art, politics and identity with a touch of humour

Woman Rising is an experience that takes visitors into the heart of Sarah’s Bag; this photo of the brand’s artisans was taken at Al Nuzha, a 10x10m rooftop in Baabda Prison

Communication through the arts is a way to divert frustration for the artist, but is also a way to inspire a sense of community, which is needed more than ever now.

the Eiffel Tower in Paris, from District Donuts in New Orleans and stop traffic in Los Angeles, emblazoned across the #7575Melrose Wall. “I think the world needs positivity, and I like the idea of making people smile, think, and maybe react if they turn a corner and happen upon my work.” Throughout history, creativity has played an important role in highlighting important issues, whether social, political or otherwise. But, to today’s generation, the idea of a Sixties-style counterculture might feel outdated. When asked about what form a new incarnation might take, one thing each of the artists have touched upon is the relevance of social media, in not only communicating their own ideas, but also forming a movement through the participation and production of their audience. In the era of ‘Jihadi cool’, platforms like Twitter have been blamed for aiding terrorism, but they are also the channels that can defuse it. In the Middle East, young Saudis speak to millions internationally via YouTube, while Persian Instagram stars like @Parvbar use the medium to share their unique take on style. Like artists, we have become our own content creators. “Communication through the arts is a way to divert frustration for the artist, but is also a way to inspire a sense of community, which is needed more than ever now,” says Raab. Can we expect a new creative counterculture? If we are to believe those in the industry, then it’s already happening. In the words of The Beatles: “You tell me it’s the institution/Well, you know/You better free your mind instead.”

Prada’s menswear and womenswear autumn/winter17 pre-collection presented an era of political protest, reminding us of those activists who once sought revolution

S o c i ety W o m en

Photographed by Julia at The Factory ME, interviewed by Sophie Pasztor

Strive for Style Juggling her manifold roles as luxury brand ambassador, founder of her namesake blog Karen’s Choice, and a busy mum of three, Karen Wazen Bakhazi appears to do it all. We spoke with the beautiful sartorial star about her wardrobe secrets and channelling spring/summer17’s ‘I’m with the Band’ trend.

Karen is photographed in her home wearing dress by Valentino and jacket by Fendi

Karen is photographed in her lounge room wearing top and skirt by Dior and shoes by Andrea Wazen

What was your inspiration behind your first look? It’s a reflection of my character, a mix between being a feminist and highlighting a rebellious side. This look merged these two elements perfectly. Can you tell us what drew you to your second look? I love the clash of pairing a patterned dress and a leather jacket to break the feminine look with a cool, biker-girl vibe. What do you most love about the ‘I’m with the band’ trend? I love the Arts, and I especially love when different aspects of the arts are brought together, such as fashion and music. There’s a cool, laidback attitude to this, which I’m most comfortable with. What would be some of your go-to accessories to support this trend? Basically anything leather, mesh materials, or a really cool pair of sunglasses. How would you pair your beauty look to best complement the trend? I would go for very classic, light and earthy colours, and loose natural hair to break the grunge. Who is your style icon? I love Miroslava Duma because she always looks effortless yet unique with how she styles items together. How would you define your style? Effortless, feminine, and classic. What are your wardrobe must-haves for this season? You have a beautiful young family; how does being a mother

Coloured lens sunglasses, printed tees, a classic pair of vintage

influence your wardrobe?

denims and blazers.

Comfort is key. I have to take what I’m wearing into consideration when I’m with the kids.

Looking back, what would you say has been your biggest fashion moment?

Who are you go-to designers for spring/summer17?

Being selected as a Dior girl and travelling with Burberry to

Gucci, Dior and Valentino.

experience their festive collection.

Which Middle Eastern designers do you favour?

You’re always travelling! Can you reveal some of your

Andrea Wazen, THYM, Sandra Mansour and Nour Hammour.

suitcase secrets? Planning all outfits in advance for each day and night; or else, I

What do you most like about the Middle Eastern fashion scene?

would literally pack my whole closet.

I’m always curious to see what our regionals come up with, because I feel everything is linked to what’s going on in the Middle East today.

What are your goals for 2017?

Designers have a way of expressing that through their designs.

Finding the perfect balance between home, work, and socialising.

Compiled by Mary Keenan, Photographed by Timur Emek, Vanni Bassetti, Christian Vierig, Matthew Sperzel, Daniel Zuchnik, Edward Berthelot at Getty

Coelho successfully colour blocks shades of red and pink by enlisting different textures, and layers a black leather dress over a shortsleeved knit at New York Fashion Week in February

Paving The Way As the new collections head our way, we look to some of fashionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most stylish figures for fresh inspiration on pulling together looks. From fresh-faced German blogger Caroline Daur to industry stalwart Leila Yavari, these are the women taking on the latest trends with impeccable ease.

Camila Coelho Boston-based Brazilian blogger Camila Coelho has contemporary dressing down pat. Whether wearing a new season Dior ball gown or distressed denim and a leather jacket, Coelhoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s minimalistic style always has a fashion forward twist. Fearless when it comes to experimenting with colour, she takes on sharp silhouettes with unabashed confidence.

STREET STY L E

Pictured here at Milan Fashion Week in September, Tordini pairs a voluminous sleeved blouse with a slim fit pair of stirruped jodhpurs

During Haute Couture week Daur donned a striking red jumper and stirruped trousers, draping a structured white trench over her shoulders

Giorgia Tordini Giorgia Tordini is all about understated elegance. The Italian creative director has a uniform of sharply tailored blazers, quality denim and leather trousers on high rotation. With a penchant for robe-style tops and outerwear, Tordini is an expert at selecting well-cut clothing that keeps her looking polished at all times.

Caroline Daur At just 21-years old, German blogger Caroline Daur has taken the fashion world by storm. Whether front row or on the runway – she recently walked in the Dolce&Gabbana men’s show – Daur always manages to look incessantly cool. A true style chameleon, she pulls off many different styles of dressing effortlessly.

Tordini styles a black satin midi wrap dress from her own label Attico, with a pair of statement sandals

At New York Fashion Week Daur showcased her wide sartorial skillset in an edgy leather ensemble worn with an oversized puffer jacket

86 Leila Yavari It comes as no surprise that Stylebop.com’s Iranian-American fashion director Leila Yavari is incredibly chic. Yavari nails the ‘borrowed from the boys’ aesthetic and is drawn to structured silhouettes and masculine tailoring. The seasoned fashion week veteran can often be seen in well-cut suits and tuxedos paired with a killer heel.

Seng layers garments of varying shapes, proportions, cuts and textures with confidence, creating an uncontrived look that’s unexpectedly chic

At Milan Fashion Week in September Yavari combated the cooler climes by layering fine knitwear under a relaxed fit cream suit

At New York Fashion Week in February, Seng balanced pops of colour with muted tones such as this yellow dress and two-tone biker jacket

Yavari shows us that capes can work for daywear, pairing this sweeping version with grey pants and a turtleneck during Haute Couture Week

Mary Seng Hailing from Nashville, blogger Mary Seng has a relaxed approach to styling, which sees her step out in outfits that exude nonchalant cool. Think faded vintage denim paired with luxurious knitwear and slouchy athleisure-inspired ensembles juxtaposed against sharply tailored items. Her expert layering always keeps her looking interesting and well put together.

She grew up in one of Americaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most legendary dynasties, and now sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s conquering the silver screen. Dree Hemingway talks to us about shrugging off her family demons and stepping into her own limelight.

Dree wearing Chanel in 2016, one of the many houses that look to her as an ambassador of style

Richard Godwin / Evening Standard / The Interview People

M OJEH W o man

If you were going to name a contemporary

She was born in Sun Valley, Idaho, and

actor. Ideal. That’s kind of the number-

‘It Girl’, Dree Hemingway would be high

spent most of her childhood on film sets.

one dream.” Her mother worked with John

on that list. The 29-year-old model and

Manhattan brought her mother, Mariel,

Candy on the 1991 comedy, Delirious,

actress scores highly on all vectors that

fame and she went on to appear in movies

and the Canadian actor was one of

are crucial to success in the modern age.

throughout the 1980s. Dree’s father,

various stars who became an uncle figure

She has the looks: One part Scandi elf,

Stephen Crisman, made documentaries

to her. “He was amazing. He was the

one part 1980s power player, and another

and travelled constantly. “I resented my

sweetest, funniest person ever. Michael

part Kurt Cobain (or maybe that’s just the

family a lot because I never had friends in

Keaton always used to be at our house

oversized jumper and shades she’s worn

one place,” she reflects. “It’s funny, until

the whole time and I used to call him my

to meet us). She has the connections:

about four years ago, I never felt like I really

godfather — and then, I’d yell at him for

A ‘friend’ of Coach, a face of Chloé and

got on with people my age. I’d always been

being a bad godfather. But what I liked

film roles alongside Hollywood’s new gen,

around adults. I guess I grew up much

was this family vibe of being on the set.

such as Adam Driver. And, she has the

faster than I should have done.”

I was desperate to be stable and settle

Bohemian pedigree that appears to be

She says she must have been “the most

in a normal house with neighbours.” Her

a prerequisite these days: Her mother is

annoying child” on film sets, desperate to

favourite director is Wes Anderson, whose

Mariel Hemingway, who played Woody

be involved: “You get paid to play as an

films carry that semi-functional, we’re-

Allen’s teenage love interest in Manhattan. Her aunt was Margaux Hemingway, the first model to win a AED 3.6 million cosmetics contract. Her great-grandfather? Only Ernest Hemingway. And, as she poses at a hideaway house in Topanga Canyon, California, she displays a rare lightness of being. She’s constantly mobile, agile, flirtatious, dancing. So many models claim that they’re doing this under duress — they’d sooner be playing bass in their band, or working on their script. But Hemingway has an actual relish for it. “I love modelling,” she says when she settles in a pool of sunlight, sucking on an American Spirit cigarette, drawing her legs under her baggy green knit. “I got into this job because I was a ballet dancer for years and I studied acting beforehand. I wanted something that could explore movement and character. It’s often harder to create a photo that has real feeling behind it than it is to do that in a movie. So, it upsets me when girls just say they’re modelling for the money. That’s not what I like about it. I like giving emotion.” There’s an indefinable nowness to Dree — her languorous grungy vibe, her kinda goofy voice, her luxey laid-back appeal — that has designers, directors and stylists increasingly enraptured. She’s pretty on it, fashion-wise, name-dropping the zeitgeisty Russian designer, Gosha Rubchinskiy, and cult London skate brand, Palace. “I actually feel that London has managed to make something new recently. It’s like the equivalent of punk.” She briefly attended Rada and has a strong social circle in London still. But for all this, she insists she was “NOT a cool kid”.

Gucci designer Alessandro Michele, who she wears here, appreciates the stars’ sophisticated yet bohemian take on fashion

all-in-this-together vibe onto the screen.

Ballet became her focus as a girl. “I liked

an expensive piece of jewellery lent to her

It sounds like a chaotic upbringing. Dree’s

the strictness of it, having to please the

by a brand — which no longer hands out

mother, like many of the Hemingway

ballet teacher — there was always another

jewellery to 14-year-olds. “People were

dynasty, suffered from mental-health issues

level to get to.” She trained with the School

really upset about that...”

— her documentary on life as a Hemingway

of American Ballet in New York and could

As for her illustrious great grandfather’s

was called Running from Crazy. Mariel

have turned professional — but was put off

influence (Ernest shot himself in Ketchum,

divorced Stephen when Dree was 20, but

by “how ballet dancers were just obsessed

Idaho, back in 1961): “In elementary

Dree was already pleading with them to

with ballet. It was a closed world”. In the

school, people don’t really pay much

part ways when she was 12.

end, she followed her mother and aunt’s

attention to who your great-grandfather

“I just knew they weren’t in love. It’s sad

paths — film, fashion — but ballet has

was. It was only much later that I met all

when I think about it, but I’ve always

gifted her wonderful posture and limpid

his fans and realised how much influence

been this great observer my whole life.

grace. It also came in handy when she

he’d had on people’s lives.” In the US,

I’ve seen so many people just stay in

‘came out’ as a debutante in Paris. “I had

Hemingway is on every school curriculum

relationships because they’re too scared

to dance with this Belgian prince in this

and his personality looms large over every

to get out. I don’t believe in settling in life.”

ridiculous Christian Dior gown.” She lost

budding writer. “I went through this huge rebellion for a while where I said, ‘I’m not reading his books’. I made this silly error years ago when I said I preferred F. Scott

Dree started her career as a ballet dancer at the age of 12 before moving into film and fashion

Fitzgerald over Hemingway.” Now, she says, she’s proud of him and prefers his ‘whole super-macho vibe’ to the ‘feminine’ Fitzgerald. “I enjoy the stories that people tell about Ernest because he was such an interesting person and I think I resemble him in some way. He was so fascinated by people. And, he just loved the sea and loved to be a ball-buster. I guess I get where this family thing of ours comes from. But people expect me to tell them stories that they’ve never heard before and I can’t tell them. My aunt, Margaux, on the other hand, I could talk about for days.” Margaux was a face of the 1970s, who appeared on covers of Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar and Time. She also had a brief film career. “She’s my style icon. She’s one of those people who spoke like a trucker. There was nothing feminine about her and yet she was the most feminine thing in a room – she could literally walk in and take people’s breath away. She’s the reason I wanted to start modelling.” Margaux’s career foundered in the 1980s; she made B-movies, posed for Playboy and dabbled in psychic self-help before dying of a barbiturates overdose in Santa Monica in 1996. Dree was eight at the time and devastated. “There’s not many Hemingways left,” she says. “My aunt Joan [aka Muffet Hemingway] lives in her own world now. She’s a little kooky, we love her. I don’t see my grandfather’s brother at all. I guess my mum is the last living Hemingway. Except for my sister and I.” That’s Langley Fox, her younger sister by 21 months. She’s a designer and model and “the one person

who understands me more than anyone”. “It’s a weird thing to be a ‘daughter of’,” she reflects. “It does open doors, but it’s harder to get yourself taken seriously. I’m completely aware that I’m following in everyone’s footsteps and the Hemingway name has got me into every door — but because of that, I’m so much harder on myself. I want to work for things.” She feels she takes more after her dad — an old hippie who is apparently part responsible for the Hard Rock Café in Piccadilly. “He and a few friends opened it in the Sixties as a way to get laid. He used to get his hair permed with Cream [Eric Clapton’s band]. And, I have these great pictures of him taking acid on the beach that his mother took.” She divides her time between New York and her new home in Laurel Canyon, the old hippie enclave in the hills above Hollywood. “This is so embarrassing, but I read this amazing article about Laurel Canyon in the Seventies in Vanity Fair a year ago and I was like, ‘I have to live there’. It was like Joni Mitchell and Crosby, Stills & Nash, and it was so inspirational. I really wanted to have that influence around me. That time was way more inspiring than now.” I’d have thought there was plenty to be getting on with right now for her. “It was a time of discovery... people were exploring boundaries. Children today have more anxiety and depression because they have too much access to too much knowledge.” For all her family history, she seems happy and less plugged in to the nexus of anxiety than many of her generation. “I am not a hater of social media — I have 115,000 followers on Instagram, which is exciting! — but I use it to show who I really I am. I’m a goofball and a nerd and I’m vain and I can make fun of myself because of that. It bothers me that people get jobs because of how many followers they have. Your talent shouldn’t be based on that. Modelling used to be about enjoying beauty.” As for film, her highestprofile credit was in Noah Baumbach’s comedy, While We’re Young (2014), and later Live Cargo (2016), which was celebrated for its poetic nature; but, there are indie leads coming up this year, including Love After Dree divides her time between New York and her family home in Laurel Canyon, both have heavily influenced her style throughout the years

Love and Jewel Thief. “I’m still green in the acting world, which is funny to me: It’s kind of nice. I’m trying to make it in a world where nobody knows who I am.” Is she happy? She looks around her. “How could I not be?”

The Look

Buckled Up

Rodarte

Alberta Ferretti

When it comes to the art of layering, the fashion world has doubled up on just about everything – from donning a skirt over trousers and a slinky slip dress over a turtleneck to bondage-style leather and latex corsets over shirts, the runways have provided us with countless lessons in layering, year after year. Cue this season’s multiple belt trend, where the focus falls squarely on accessories, with numerous designers choosing to layer the humble belt. At Balmain, Olivier Rousteing used wide, wrap-style snakeskin versions that simulated the appearance of multiple belts to accentuate his hourglass silhouettes, as well as to soften masculine explorer-style wound tightly around the waist. Rodarte also doubled up, optimising on the extra

One of the season’s biggest accessory trends makes a strong case for the ‘more is more’ ethos.

length of high-waisted trousers by overlapping two slimline belts. When it comes to tackling this trend off the catwalk, don’t be afraid to mix and match – look for belts in varying widths or finishes to enhance the waist, but keep the rest of your outfit minimal. While not exactly practical, two belts most certainly pack double the punch.

Words by Mary Keenan

jackets; meanwhile, at Alberta Ferretti, belts were worn stacked in twos and threes,

Emilia Wickstead

Philosophy By Lorenzo Serafini

Prairie Perfection Autumn’s urban cowgirl is here to stay, embracing a lighter disposition for the spring/summer season.

Last season, designers took inspiration from the North American prairie, with Mary Katrantzou, Sportmax and Maison Margiela all sending backcountry influenced ensembles down the runway. During all four fashion weeks in September, the prairie girl underwent a season-appropriate update, transitioning to summer’s more temperate climes. At Philosophy By Lorenzo Serafini, the designer opted for a highly romanticised interpretation, inlaying a lace collar and sleeves to a flowing minidress silhouette, paired with white cowboy-style ankle boots. Emilia Wickstead followed a similar approach, creating a full-length shirt dress with voluminous bell sleeves cut from a soft floral print fabric. Simon Porte Jacquemus adapted the prairie girl to his native France, creating a collection full of Provençal folk-style outfits made contemporary with cocoon-like sleeves and slashed hemlines. Bohemian and free-spirited, yet incredibly practical, these new season offerings are ideal for

Words by Mary Keenan

hot summer days and long summer nights; however, styling is crucial to prevent an ensemble from appearing like a costume. Look for breezy minidresses with a longer sleeve and team with a pair of sliders or ankle boots for easy daytime chic. Make a peasant-style blouse suitable for the office by pairing with flared trousers and for summertime soirées, look no further than Rodarte or Giambattista Valli, whose heavenly sheer gowns and tiered mididresses are spot on prairie chic.

Jacquemus

T h e U p date

C o n t em p orar y

C l ass i cs

Words by Mary Keenan

Pradaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s spring/summer17 show embraced a back-to-basics approach, complete with Miucciaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s exuberant flourishes.

When the term ‘back to basics’ is applied to clothing, it’s

Cool girl college jackets with utility leather pockets were

hard not to think of nondescript, perfunctory, somewhat

tightly cinched at the waist with vibrant belts, and Sixties

boring everyday essentials. However, when Miuccia Prada

checked blazers in citrus hues paired with tiny, playful

decides to create a back-to-basics collection, it should come

shorts felt very much a mix between Cher Horowitz and

as no surprise that it’s everything but remotely ordinary.

a Wes Anderson film.

Choosing to simplify for spring/summer17, Prada crafted

As ever, the collection’s accessory game was also strong,

a collection of bread-and-butter basics and imaginative

consisting of sliders decorated with flowers, kitten heels

workwear, made spectacularly beautiful by the masterful

with feathered detailing, and boldly patterned oversized

touches the designer is so well known for. Slip dresses,

clutch bags.

wrap skirts and pyjama suits with Chinese style collars were

The key take-homes from this collection are the endless

embellished with unexpected ostrich and marabou feather

mix and match capabilities and the clever lessons in styling.

trims, while colourful, art deco-style patterned fabrics were

It was all about controlled frivolity: Do contrast a simple

fashioned into shirtdresses and turtlenecks and clashed

pinafore dress against a wildly patterned turtleneck sweater,

against colour-blocked separates. Forties-style swimwear

and do liven up a box pleat skirt and cardigan combo with a

also made an appearance in the form of micro mini skorts,

fur stole. For Prada, this was simplicity at its finest, but playful

paired with contrasting tanks worn over fitted shirts.

and uncontrived simplicity that was nowhere near mundane.

T A L KING P OINT

The finale of the #DGMillennials autumn/ winter17 runway show which featured Brandon Thomas Lee, Sistine Stallone and Cameron Dallas

The

Zeitgeist Words by Mary Keenan

of Z

MOJEH explores the meteoric rise of Generation Z, and the transformative effect its members are having within the fashion industry.

98 Last month, Chanel’s spring 2017 Haute

From adverts and billboards to front covers

for some of fashion’s most revered luxury

Couture show took place at the Grand

and front rows, there has been a distinct

brands represent this new demographic.

Palais in Paris. The show was business

gravitation towards young personalities

It started in January last year, when Nicolas

as usual for Karl Lagerfeld, who, as

and faces. While the fashion and beauty

Ghesquière cast 17-year-old Jaden Smith

always, offered up a thoughtfully designed

industry’s obsession with youthfulness is

in his spring/summer16 advertising

collection brimming with breathtakingly

nothing new, this recent shift has seen high

campaign for Louis Vuitton, dressed in a

beautiful gowns. As typical, the show’s final

fashion embrace the latest generation,

metal embroidered kilt and leather jacket

look was the house’s highly anticipated

and we don’t mean millennials. Enter

from his womenswear collection. This

bridal gown, modelled by fashion’s girl

Generation Z: Born in the mid-1990s to

was followed swiftly by Cindy Crawford’s

of the moment. This season, the honour

early 2000s, Generation Z is the first to be

15-year-old daughter, Kaia Gerber, starring

went to Lily-Rose Depp, the fresh faced

born after the introduction of the internet

in Alexander Wang’s spring/summer16

17-year-old daughter of Johnny Depp

and social media, making its cohorts true

campaign as the latest addition to his

and Vanessa Paradis – a casting choice

digital natives. The rising wave of celebrity

#WangSquad. It snowballed quickly from

that symbolises the significant change

offspring and trending social media stars

there, with other celebrity progenies

occurring within the fashion world of late.

that are becoming the poster boys and girls

joining the ranks: Willow Smith and Lottie Moss for Chanel, Iris Law and Brooklyn Beckham for Burberry and Sistine Stallone, Brandon Thomas Lee, Rafferty Law, Sofia

Karl Lagerfeld pictured backstage with Chanel bride Lily-Rose Depp at the Maison’s Spring 2017 Haute Couture show

Richie, Presley Gerber and Gabriel Kane Day-Lewis for Dolce&Gabbana. There’s also the teens who have become youth culture sensations in their own right, such as the American Vine star Cameron Dallas, with his 18.1 million-strong social media following, who starred in a recent Calvin Klein campaign; dreadlocked Luka Sabbat, who was street-cast for an Off White campaign and has become one of the fashion industry’s most coveted influencers; American singer and actress Zendaya, who starred in the recent Dolce&Gabbana Capri campaign; the list goes on. However, just over a year ago, we were seeing the likes of Joan Didion starring in Céline campaigns, Joni Mitchell in Saint Laurent and Iris Apfel fronting advertisements for Alexis Bittar and Kate Spade. So, why the change? Currently, Generation Z make up 25 per cent of the population of the United States, and with a global population of 1.86 billion, they account for nearly a third of the total number of people in the world – which explains why storied brands are pulling out all stops to entice and engage them early on. With 92 per cent of Gen Z set online daily, ventures such as Burberry’s on the iTunes store, F is for Fendi, the Italian house’s new digital lifestyle platform, and Gucci’s #24Ace Instagram campaign,

Photographed by Benoit Peverelli

starring South Korean longboarder Ko Hyoo Jo, reflect the necessity felt by luxury brands to have a significant youth-focused presence online, in order to tap into this new breed of consumer. With a combined buying power of AED 1.61 billion in the States and AED 9 trillion globally, it’s little wonder that this generation has been labelled as ‘the next big retail disrupter’ by

Photographed by Victor Boyko, Jeff Kravitz, Venturelli at Getty.

music channel, Alexander Wang’s playlists

Gigi Hadid and Tommy Hilfiger walk the runway during the brand’s spring/summer2017 staged in Los Angeles

The Louis Vuttion autumn/winter17 show saw the brand collaborate with streetwear specialists Supreme creating a range of branded clothes and accessories

Women’s Wear Daily. Data released by EY

heaviest hitters, including Cameron Dallas,

demonstrates that in as little as four years,

British rapper Tinie Tempah, models Sofia

they will account for 24 per cent of the US

Richie, Lucky Blue Smith and Sonia Ben

workforce and 40 per cent of all consumer

Ammar, Vine star Neels Visser, YouTubers

spending, which is perhaps why brands

Juanpa Zurita and Marcus Butler, as well as

like Dolce&Gabbana are leading the charge

fashion bloggers Marcel Floruss, Caroline

to capture the attention of fashion’s new

Daur and Ahmad Dabbas and Elias El-

guard. In under a year, Domenico Dolce

indari – both of whom are Dubai-based.

and Stefano Gabbana have progressed

“These guys are representative of millions

from inviting millennials, Gen Z-ers and

of young people. We are not so young

social media stars to sit front row at their

anymore. So, it’s very interesting for us to

runway shows, to basing entire collections

try to understand what they love and don’t

and campaigns around them. Their Autumn

love,” Stefano Gabbana remarked, post-

2017 menswear show, complete with its

show. Similarly, at Chanel, Karl Lagerfeld

own hashtag #DGMillennials, featured

has extended his love of the ‘It Girl’

a star-studded global lineup of Gen Z’s

down a generation, tapping Kate Moss’s

100

Earlier this year Jude Law’s teenage daughter Iris was announced as Burberry’s newest beauty ambassador

Tinie Tempah, Cameron Dallas, Gabriel Kane Day-Lewis and Brandon Thomas Lee sit front row at Dolce&Gabbana’s spring/ summer17 menswear show

19-year-old little sister, Lottie, and Lily-

“We need someone like Bella to help us

Rose Depp to star in beauty campaigns

capture the bold and confident spirit of

over the past year. While Louis Vuitton

young people today.”

recently collaborated with streetwear

While it’s still too early to see what financial

label Supreme for their autumn/winter17

benefits these young draw cards will

menswear collection, luxury watch brand

generate for luxury fashion brands, their

Tag Heuer also followed suit, naming

inclusion ushers in a new era of diversity:

20-year-old Bella Hadid as its newest

Take the Dolce&Gabbana show, for

ambassador in February. “Having Bella

instance, whose cast included a vast range

on the team enables me to reconnect

of many different ethnicities and races.

TAG Heuer with the millennials and young

Studies show that Generation Z is the most

generations, and also with the brand’s

ethnically diverse generation in US history,

avant-garde spirit – the spirit that drives us

comprised of a whopping 47 per cent of

to do things differently, to innovate and to

ethnic minorities. These shifts are reflected

dare,” CEO Jean-Claude Biver explained

on a cultural level, too, as stances on social

in a statement released by the brand.

issues, such as same-sex marriage and

gender equality, have changed radically in the past decade. They also don’t define themselves by gender as much as previous

A still taken from Fendi’s new digital platform F is for Fendi which launched in February

generations. According to the director of trend forecasting at JWT Intelligence, Shepherd Laughlin, only 48 per cent of Gen Z identify as exclusively heterosexual compared to 65 per cent of millennials. Additionally, only 44 per cent of them say they always buy clothes designed for their own gender compared with 54 per cent of millennials – hence the Jaden Smith for Louis Vuitton womenswear campaign and an upcoming stint by Pharrell Williams as an ambassador for Chanel’s new Gabrielle bag. Also defined as the Pluralist Generation, Gen Z believes in diversity when it comes to both race and religion, and maintains that people from multiple backgrounds can coexist in society. Their attitude is largely altruistic, revolving less around fitting in and more about embracing their own identity, something confirmed by marketing specialist Nancy Nessel founder of the website, gettinggenz. com. According to Nessel, Gen Z are “looking for brands that have personality and authenticity”, which explains why customisable products, such as Fendi’s ‘Strap You’ line and Jimmy Choo’s ‘Madeto-Order’ service, have gained popularity in recent years. While there are plenty of positives to come from luxury fashion embracing Gen Z, where does this leave loyal consumers, who have built relationships with their favourite brands over the past few decades? Between the hashtags, new digital and social media platforms and baby-faced ‘It Kids’ of today, can they still identify with and have a meaningful relationship with their favourite houses, or will this new wave of digital influencers and celebrity children inadvertently alienate them? Brands such as Bottega Veneta and The Row are striking up a careful

Grazia Chiuri not only included a calculated

As luxury brands continue to find ways to

balance. For example, at Bottega Veneta’s

edit of slogan tees, white sneakers and

cultivate relationships with Generation Z

spring/summer17 show, Thomas Maier

branded accessories and bags sure to

and tap into their spending habits, they will

cast veteran models Lauren Hutton and

appeal to street-savvy teens in her spring/

have to be incredibly careful not to distance

Karen Elson alongside Gigi Hadid and

summer17 collection, but also ensured

themselves from their present consumers.

Edie Campbell. Likewise, at The Row’s

there were plenty of gowns, blazers and

Perhaps the increase in customisation

recent autumn/winter17 show in New

coats and jackets for the brand’s refined

is something that can enable brands to

York, 46-year-old model Kirsten Owen and

adult clientele. Most recently, at London

cater to both old and new consumers,

39-year-old Alek Wek walked alongside

Fashion Week in February, Simone

allowing them to take ownership of the

20-year-old Dutch model Imaan Hammam.

Rocha created her collection around the

brands they love in unique and relevant

Givenchy also maintains an equilibrium

notion of being inclusive of women of

ways. Or, will the demand for round-the-

with the likes of Mariacarla Boscono and

all ages – a point she further reinforced

clock digital access drive fashion houses

Naomi Campbell featured beside Bella

by sending seasoned models Jan de

in an unchartered direction, pushing closer

Hadid and Julia Nobis in their advertising

Villeneuve, Jamie Bochert and Benedetta

towards youth culture and further away from

campaigns. Meanwhile, at Dior, Maria

Barzini down the runway in her creations.

their existing clientele? Only time will tell.

102

D e sig n er I nter vie w

Ins i d e A n Odyss e y We get up close and personal with Mary Katrantzouâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s spring/summer17 offering as the designer shares her collection notes.

Interview by Mary Keenan

It’s been almost a decade since the debut collection at London Fashion Week in 2009 that placed Mary Katrantzou firmly on the fashion industry’s radar as one of London’s most promising creative young talents. Since then, the designer has collaborated with Adidas, Longchamp, Moncler, and the New York City Ballet, while steadily growing her brand season after season. With her own shoe collection and new digital platform in the pipeline for 2017, it appears Katrantzou isn’t showing any signs of slowing down. Known for her fearless experimentation with digital print and pattern, as well as texture and textile design, Katrantzou finds inspiration in a vast and unexpected variety of subject matter – including cowboys and princesses, kenophobia, Pangea, postage stamps, and perfume bottles. For spring/ summer17, inspiration struck a lot closer to home, with Katrantzou choosing to base her collection around the culture, artefacts and frescoes of the Minoan civilisation from her native Greece. “I first visited the ancient palace of Knossos in Crete during my childhood; I remember the brilliance of colour in the artefacts and frescoes, and being fascinated by the fact that it was a culture dominated by women,” she muses. “The scenes projected onto these items symbolised the pop culture of the times, and juxtaposing

on my Greek heritage, but I was researching

scalloped tulip dresses over a plain white tee.

these artworks against 1960s psychedelic

female deities and came across these Minoan

The full length peplum skirts are ideal for cocktail

optical art was an interesting contrast as the

frescoes featuring women – and thought, why

or red carpet events – simply pair with a cropped

starting point for the collection.” This initial idea

not?” Katrantzou explains. “I wanted to exalt

tank or silk sleeveless shirt. The collection’s

manifested into a striking collection, which

the imagery of the civilisation in a way that felt

alphabet clutch bags hold plenty of appeal, too

combined intense colour and dizzying optical

genuine to me, which meant not shying away

– available in many hues shapes and materials,

illusion-like patterns with traditional Greek

from print or silhouettes that I have done before.

they provide an easy injection of colour.

symbols and imagery into an interesting array of

I think it’s always important to utilise all your

This explosion of vivid colour and print is a return

pieces – this included flared trousers emblazoned

brand codes when defining a collection that has

to form of sorts for the designer, whose last few

with kaleidoscopic patterns and paired with

a personal tone.”

collections have presented a more subdued

fresco printed blazers, evening skirts with cute

Katrantzou is something of an expert when it

colour palette and a distinct departure from the

peplum frills, as well as sporty shift dresses and

comes to manipulating prints to craft clothes

early trompe-l’œil-style prints that became her

full-length tunics. Reverse layering saw knee-

that enhance the female figure and draw the

signature. “I have always been drawn by the

length pinafore dresses with scalloped tulip

eye towards the waist. While at first glance,

almost endless creative possibilities that print

skirts, worn over psychedelic printed turtleneck

these garments may appear a bit too bold or

offers,” she notes. “There is a freedom in being

tops in a clash of colour and print, even as laser-

busy for everyday wear, when broken down and

able to translate almost any inspiration into a

cut Perspex discs were fashioned into overlays,

approached as separates, they’re all incredibly

garment that is engineered to flatter the female

serving as empowering armour for the modern

wearable. Take the pottery patterned blazers,

form. Our customer appreciates the workmanship

woman as they clinked down the runway. “I had

for instance, and pair with a black-flared trouser

that goes into each piece, and is seeking

never really thought of doing a collection based

or distressed denim jeans; or, don one of the

unique pieces that reflect strong conviction.”

104 Maryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Collection Notes

Iris Dress Showcasing a nurturing female Minoan Goddess, the Iris dress is fully fabricated in our London studio in silver chain mail, and takes approximately five days to complete from start to finish. Featuring two key fabrications of printed lace bonded onto chain mail (produced in an industrial printing machine), this piece is engineered to the female body, with hand-linked panels creating a fluid, gleaming statement.

Poseidon Dress Laser-cut from translucent and mirrored Perspex, each individual piece of the Poseidon dress is assembled by hand in our London studio, link by link, by a team of five over three days. The dress depicts a central floral emblem of Swarovski crystals, which are held up by transparent plastic straps and weigh over four kilograms each.

Dewel Theia Dress Inspired by Ancient Greek Minoan culture, this elegant dress features fierce warriors and female goddesses, depicted in seed bead stitched appliquĂŠ motifs, which are hand-beaded in India. Taking weeks of development in conjunction with Indian artisans, each dress is manufactured in London.

Tigris Dress Featuring a psychedelic harlequin pattern contrasted against classic Greek border keys, the Tigris dress is printed and smocked by Italian artisans, using techniques uniquely developed for the spring/summer17 show. The technique uses over three-and-a-half times the fabric of the final surface area to create the textured surface, and is engineered to the female form. A jewel-encrusted dove of peace features on the chest, complemented by Swarovski encrusted cuffs at the elbow.

106

Animal Instinct

se a s o n al s ty le

Donning traces of leopard and the occasional inclusion of python wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t hold up this season, as designers petition for a complete animal overhaul. Expose your wild side with lifelike animal emblems, and look to pieces that can be paired with neutral separates.

Compiled by Sophie Pasztor

MAX MARA

Farmers Market

108

PRADA

There is something effortlessly poetic about the serene countryside. The charm of plaid and the romance of fresh blooms speak of comfort to those who revel in it. Opt for bright colours that pair well with the warmer weather, and look to frayed denim and cool slides for effortless style.

Stargaze

110

ELIE SAAB

Our love for astronomy strengthens with designers like Delpozo and Elie Saab, who were seen sprinkling starry murals across their collections. Shimmering jewellery and crystal embellishments work to heighten their elegance.

112

Fa sh i o n TRENDS

SS17

Photographed by Morgan Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Donovan

DIOR

114 1

1. KENZO | 2. SAINT LAURENT | 3. AQUILANO E RIMONDI | 4. ISABEL MARANT | 5. JEREMY SCOTT

EIGHTIES EVOLUTION Strong Eighties-style silhouettes make a return to the runway. Look for structured dresses, tapered trousers and bodycon skirts cut from tactile fabrics, in timeless colours such as black vinyl.

116 1

THE STATEMENT SLEEVE Leg oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;mutton sleeves return this season as part of the Eighties resurgence. Sleeker contemporary styles such as Muglerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s minidress will work for minimalists, while Gucci and Rodarte offer unabashed Eighties-style opulence.

118 1

EASTERN INFLUENCE First seen on the Thom Browne, Louis Vuitton and Gucci menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s runways last year, Oriental motifs now infiltrate womenswear. Make a statement with hand-painted prints or go for subtler embroidered Asian florals.

1. ANDREW GN | 2. EMPORIO ARMANI | 3. GUCCI | 4. STELLA JEAN

120 3

FLARED FLAIR Designers debuted wide-legged trousers in an array of fabrics and prints. Nail occasion dressing in Brandon Maxwell’s silky flares or Balmain’s python print version. Giamba and Hermès offer daytime decadence.

122 1

THE COLD SHOULDER Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s all about the shoulder this season. Gravitate towards asymmetric cuts for an edgier look or take a balanced approach by donning a dress or top with cut-out shoulder details.

124 1

1. BALMAIN | 2. MAX MARA | 3. AKRIS | 4. BURBERRY PRORSUM | 5. KENZO

THE COVER UP Statement coats in lightweight fabrics are a wise investment as we transition into spring. Printed varieties such as Max Maraâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tropical duster will enliven any outfit immediately.

126 1

SEEING SYMBOLS Emblems and icons become key fixtures. Go big and bold with Max Mara and Gucci’s offerings or smaller scale with Mary Katrantzou’s Greek motifs.

128 1

SHORT STORY From sleek to sporty, summer shorts can work for any occasion. Elevate your ensemble with a matching tailored jacket or blazer, or pair with an oversized knit for off-duty nonchalance.

1. ALEXANDER WANG | 2. CHLOÃ&#x2030; | 3. TIBI | 4. 3.1 PHILLIP LIM

130 3

SHARP SHIRTING Update your seasonal shirtdress with a more structured style. Less conventional hues such as ice blue or oxblood work for casualwear, and luxurious fabrics such as silk for a working wardrobe.

132 1

FRILL FACTOR Ruffles and frills bring playful femininity to any ensemble. Start small with a tiered sleeve and use frills in contrasting colours to emphasise curves, or flatter your waistline with a peplum ruffle.

134 1

1. DENNIS BASSO | 2. MARY KATRANTZOU | 3. BIBHU MOHAPATRA | 4. EMPORIO ARMANI | 5. ROKSANDA

TIMELESS TIERS Tiered dresses and skirts appeared on runways from New York to Paris. Add structure and shape with a scalloped skirt, or look for contrasting tiers as a way to add colour.

136 1

ATHLETIC APPEAL Athleisure shows no signs of slowing down, with Alexander Wang and Jill Stuart sending out sportswear styles in streamlined cuts, while Jodhpur trousers and billowing parkas embodied an off-duty vibe at Versace.

Compiled by Mary Keenan

138

c o l o u r T r en ds

ss17

andPrint

MARY KATRANTZOU

140 1

ANIMAL INSTINCT Embrace your wild side with fierce leopard prints. Utilise well-cut separates by pairing with block colours for easy daywear, and draw inspiration from Nina Ricciâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s slinky slip dress for night.

1. CHRISTOPHER KANE | 2. ERMANNO SCERVINO | 3. NINA RICCI | 4. ROBERTO CAVALLI

142 1

PURPLE REIGN Whether violet, lilac or royal purple, this is the hue to try this season. Invest in chic summer dresses for daywear or coordinating separates in darker shades for evening attire.

144 1

RED HOT Cherry reds and crimsons are must-wear shades this season. Look effortlessly cool in Dior’s biker jacket or select a gown in ruby red for elegant cocktail dressing.

146 1

HIGH TIDE Take on spring’s brighter palette by switching out navy for azure blue. Seek pieces with interesting cuts and shapes, such as Ferragamo’s belted coatdress and Ports 1961’s trapeze-cut parka.

148 1

MIXED METALS High-shine metallics become a go-to after dark dressing. Burnished bronze and copper tones are a good match for darker skin, while yellow and rose golds will complement a lighter complexion.

1. BLUMARINE | 2. GUCCI | 3. OSCAR DE LA RENTA | 4. CAROLINA HERRERA

150 1

POWDERED PINKS Blush and baby pinks made their mark on the spring/ summer runways. Opt for soft shades in tougher silhouettes, like HermĂ¨s boiler suit, or embody a free-spirited femininity in Blumarineâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s princess gown.

152 1

STAYING GROUNDED From beige to taupe and chestnut to chocolate, a full spectrum of browns appeared on the runways. Garments with a slight metallic sheen are the most impactful.

154 1

PUNCHY PRINTS Whether psychedelic or retro-inspired, bold graphic prints are an easy way to inject colour into your wardrobe. Look for versatile separates that can be mixed in with existing pieces.

156 1

Paisley-printed pieces feature in numerous collections. Look for small-scale prints on bohemian-style dresses or large swirling patterns on outerwear separates, and pair with a stacked heel platform sandal.

Compiled by Mary Keenan

PAISLEY PRINTS

1&2. ACNE | 3. ETRO | 4. MONCLER GAMME ROUGE

158

A cc es s o ry T r ends

Prada

ss17

160

GRAPHIC DETAILS

3 1. PRADA | 2. MARC JACOBS | 3. ACNE | 4. EMPORIO ARMANI | 5. VERSACE

Graphic print bags fuse form and function, appearing in a variety of shapes, sizes and prints. Tap into the Seventies vibe with Prada’s floral clutch, or go contemporary cool with Versace’s structured pochette.

Redefine handbag essentials and travel light with spring’s micro-mini bags. Select styles with charms, embellishments and metal hardware, such as Valentino’s cross body bag or Fendi’s top handle tote.

1. CHLOÉ | 2. CHRISTOPHER KANE | 3. CHANEL | 4. FENDI | 5. VALENTINO

LITTLE WONDERS

162 Add visual interest to a look with unmatched earrings. Successfully combine shapes and lengths by creating pairs of the same colour, or mix minerals with metal for a more modern approach.

OPPOSITES ATTRACT

1. SPORTMAX | 2. PRABAL GURUNG | 3. J. W. ANDERSON | 4. SAINT LAURENT | 5. TEATUM JONES

SECOND SKIN

3 1. MARC JACOBS | 2. MAISON MARGIELA | 3. ROCHAS | 4. BALENCIAGA | 5. CARVEN

Unconventional

nylons

in bold and bright hues brought unexpected pops of colour to the runways. Slip on underneath summer sandals or add elbow length gloves to combat springâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 4

temperamental climes.

164

EXCESS BAGGAGE

3 1. CÉLINE | 2. MUGLER | 3. MARNI | 4. BALENCIAGA | 5. LOEWE

Play up proportions with an oversized handbag. Invest in clean lined, minimalist styles that are both pretty and practical, such as Mugler’s top handle bag or Céline’s extra long tote.

The humble baseball cap goes high fashion. Go for heavy hitting impact with Elie Saab or Moschino, and for retro cool, take your style cues from Chanel and wear to the side.

1. MAX MARA | 2. CHANEL | 3. ELIE SAAB | 4. OFF WHITE | 5. MOSCHINO

PEAK PERFORMANCE

166 Ankle boots transition to summer

with

colourful

prints. Alexander McQueen’s floral pair is the perfect accompaniment for off-duty denim, while Fendi’s sporty stripes will lend an athleisure vibe to cropped trousers.

ANKLE ATTRACTION

1. GIAMBA | 2. RAG & BONE | 3. FENDI | 4. ALEXANDER MCQUEEN | 5. EMILIO PUCCI

ON THE SLIDE

3 1. DIOR | 2. PRADA | 3. MIU MIU | 4. ANYA HINDMARCH | 5. LANVIN

Sliders have established themselves as a summertime necessity. Select embellished pairs for a dressier look, while kitsch pairs from Prada or Anya Hindmarch will exude 4

laidback luxe.

168

BUGGING OUT

3 1. LOEWE | 2. DIOR | 3. VALENTINO | 4. ROBERTO CAVALLI | 5. MAISON MARGIELA

Creepy crawlies become Select earrings or a necklace featuring little creatures, or opt for jewellery made with iridescent beetle wings for a less obvious approach.

Compiled by Mary Keenan

unlikely accessory icons.

Tinted shades channel springâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s nostalgic vibe and are an excellent way to add vibrancy to an outfit. If uncertain, start small by selecting a pair with a slight hint of colour.

1. NINA RICCI | 2. FENDI | 3. MIU MIU | 4. MARNI | 5. 3.1 PHILLIP LIM

SHADED DREAMS

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c o u tu r e ed it

Couture In Focus MOJEH explores the key pieces, definitive moods and most breathtaking moments from the Haute Couture spring/summer17 collections.

Words by Mary Keenan

Over the past few fashion seasons, we’ve watched a number of notable changes within the world of couture – from shock designer arrivals and departures to new techniques and technologies. Of these, the most noteworthy is quite easily the distinct shift towards more wearable collections. For Spring 2017, couture’s most revered names did, of course, turn out many meticulously crafted whimsical creations that drew from fantasy and fairytales, providing us with countless options for the year’s most exclusive events. Gowns aside, there was plenty on offer for the discerning woman. Picturesque blazers that would look just as commanding in a boardroom as they would in a black tie ballroom, tiered skirts of varying lengths that could just as easily be paired with a T-shirt and kicks as a coordinating couture top, and iconic classics such as Dior’s Bar Jacket and Chanel’s tweed suit were also evolved and given fresh updates. Couture is still just as beautiful and elegant as it was before, but it continues its metamorphosis.

SCHIAPARELLI Bertrand Guyon’s spring offering for the house of Schiaparelli was awash with colour, graphic prints and trompe l’oeil motifs reimagined. Guyon dove into the history of the Maison and plucked out some of Elsa’s most loved symbols, from the lobster and padlock to faces from Bourdin pictures.

172 CHANEL Chanelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s collection sought to celebrate femininity through refined decadence. Feathers, pearlised embroidery and iridescent beading lent an air of opulence to the garments, which were presented in a setting inspired by 1930s dĂŠcor and the art deco movement. Here, Karl Lagerfeld offers the finishing touches.

organza, which fell softly from the waist of an embellished feathered dress worn with suede over-the-knee boots. A wide 1980s style metallic belt completed the look.

Photographed by Benoit Peverelli

A deep V-neck cut away to delicate tiered layers of

The houseâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tweed suiting received a contemporary makeover, with Lagerfeld adapting the skirt suit with fit and flare techniques that saw blazers belted in at the waist and reimagined in hues of pastel green, yellow and pink.

Dresses with kick pleats brought movement to the runway, while metallic thread running through the structured tweed jackets created a shimmer effect that lent a refined edge to daywear dressing.

174 Kendall Jenner models an embellished silver gown during pre-show fittings. A sheer tier of tulle gracefully falls from under the feathered skirt, elongating the gownâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sheath silhouette.

Full-length sheath gowns crafted from sparkling silver sequins were softened and sensualised with tactile tufts of flocked marabou feathers in demure shades of pink. Deep cut-away backs worked to counterbalance high necklines.

GIAMBATTISTA VALLI Gambattista Valliâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s collection featured many beautiful gowns cut and draped from diaphanous fabrics, in a range of hues and delicate floral prints. Careful details, such as lightweight capes streaming from a single shoulder, increased the drama.

Valliâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s frothy tiered tulle dresses appeared again, updated this season in shades of pale pink, icy blue and citrus yellow. Fitted bodices encrusted with floral details, created out of embroidered crystal, completed the look.

176 ARMANI PRIVĂ&#x2030; Visual contrasts highlighted the clever craftsmanship of the pieces within the Armani PrivĂŠ collection. Exaggerated structured shoulders on a clean-cut, orange, crocodile skin jacket worked to emphasise its narrow waist.

Giorgio Armani turned up the heat on his winter collection, switching from last seasonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s icy blues to hues of orange. Shades of tangerine, saffron, rich yolk, and apricot were sent down the runway, punctuated by all-black ensembles.

Gauzy pleated fabric was manipulated and draped into beautiful folds on a crystal embroidered gown, disrupting its column shape. Beading and micropleating techniques were applied to draw the eye to various parts of the body on other gowns.

178 GUO PEI With baroque and medieval royalty serving as her inspiration, Guo Pei’s collection featured incredibly lavish queens and princesses. Models wore jewel-encrusted crowns, made all the more magnificent by heavy molten gold makeup.

FRANCESCO SCOGNAMIGLIO Baroque influences were also present in Francesco Scognamiglio’s collection. The Italian designer created ornate crystal face masks in ivory, black and blush pink, based on the intricate baroque moldings of Queen Maria Amalia of Saxony’s 18th Century boudoir.

MAISON MARGIELA John Galliano focused on the artisanal techniques of haute couture for his Spring 2017 collection, collaborating with British artist Benjamin Shine for over 300 hours to craft the tulle face on this white coat.

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VALENTINO Pierpaolo Piccioli’s first solo couture collection sought inspiration from ancient myths, with each of his runway looks named after Greek deities. Sorbet shades formed the base of the collection, disrupted with bold red, pink and mauve.

Trapeze silhouettes, pleats and plissé detailing added subtle shape and texture to the crêpe, silk, chiffon and velvet floorlength gowns, while appliqué floral detailing brought elegance and luxury to the daytime duster coats and sheer shirts.

ZUHAIR MURAD Inspired by a Japanese pyrotechnics display, Zuhair Murad showcased a collection of red carpet-worthy gowns in a spectrum of chromatic fuchsia, green, red and blue. Sequin embroidery resembled exploding fireworks, smattered across the gowns in a shower of sparks.

GEORGES HOBEIKA Pretty blooms and blossoms nestled amongst East Asian motifs, such as dragons and fans, at Georges Hobeika. Delicate floral petals were sewn onto a mesh dress, creating a tactile floral garden.

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ELIE SAAB Lebanese couture king Elie Saabâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s show was a masterclass in timeless dressing, with the designer offering up the dreamiest of gowns as well as pantsuits, jumpsuits and the odd midi dress, modernised by the futuristic sunglasses accompanying them.

A party scene from an Egyptian film starring actress Faten Hamama was one of the designerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s key references for the collection, which translated to embroidered palm trees, hazy Nile scenes and blue evil eye motifs.

Accessories featured heavily, further adding to the old world glamour of the collection. Satin headbands matched the hues of the opening gowns, while gilded earrings, necklaces, bracelets, cuffs and rings repeated the embroidery of the gowns.

Saab experimented with cuts and proportions, which resulted in off shoulder gowns, trousers with trains and dramatic capes that fell softly from shoulders and arms. Plumes of feathers added graceful volume to shoulders and wrists.

184 ULYANA SERGEENKO Russian designer Ulyana Sergeenkoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 10th couture collection in Paris played up the mystery of her homelandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s pagan era, when women were represented as symbols of strength, choosing to convey this through cascading ruffles, heavy velvet and bustier-style tops.

Sequined gloves resembling chain mail peeked out from under a cape, providing a tough juxtaposition against the nature-inspired motifs such as lily pads, foliage, hand-knit flowers and snakes, which featured heavily throughout the collection.

VIKTOR&ROLF Last year, the Viktor&Rolf design team created an entire collection from the fabric scraps of their previous collections. This season, they took apart damaged party dresses from the last seven decades to construct their pieces.

The designers used gold detailing to differentiate between the pieces of fabric used on each garment, a technique that mimics Kintsugi, the Japanese tradition of repairing broken pottery in a way that highlights the cracks.

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RALPH & RUSSO Tamara Ralph and Michael Russo had a heavy arsenal of red carpet dresses in their repertoire, but the pair also presented a more contemporary offering of daywear, which included chic pencil skirts, off-shoulder jackets and minidresses.

Structured sweetheart bodices gave way to layer upon layer of feminine ruffles and frills, while unexpected floral rosettes and detailing on the back of gowns were revealed as models made their turn at the end of the catwalk.

JEAN PAUL GAULTIER Jean Paul Gaultierâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s offering presented many daywear options, from shimmering halterneck sundresses to tailored highwaisted trousers and coordinating pinstriped suits. Accessories were big and bold, with heavy metal sunglasses, oversized floral necklaces and colourful straw hats used.

RAMI AL ALI Inspired by the Japanese cherry blossom, Rami Al Aliâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s collection consisted of embroidered and laser-cut jumpsuits, gowns and kimono-style dresses. A soft and subtle pastel colour palette further communicated his theme.

188 Christian DIOR Maria Grazia Chiuriâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first couture collection transported showgoers to a magical labyrinth strewn with greenery, moss, ribbons and tarot cards. Feathered headdresses and winged masks worn by the models added to

Photographed by Sophie Carre

the sense of mystery.

Painstaking attention to detail saw astrological signs and tarot symbols hand-painted onto gowns, as well as detailed floral embroidery â&#x20AC;&#x201C; some of which took over 1,600 hours of workmanship to create.

This ball gown combined a Grecian-style black velvet bodice and ecru taffeta skirt, which was hand-painted and embroidered with many different astrological motifs, taking the Dior team 1,700 hours to create.

190

Chiuri and her team showcased their vast skill set, sending out floor-length dresses cut from velvet, tulle, lace and lamĂŠ, while extensive embroidery, creping, tiering, fringing and embellished reinforced the atelierâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s versatility.

Postâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;show, Chiuri highlighted the importance of balancing the magic of couture with wearability, which was evident in her mix of day and evening silhouettes. The houseâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s iconic Bar Jacket received a makeover, reimagined with frothy frills.

Soul Of

Spring Classic concepts of femininity are reimagined. Throngs of frills and layers of airy-light lace are paired with tough woven tweeds while powerful prints and decadent detailing signal strength.

Photographed by Joseph Paradiso and Yuki Tseng Styled by DaVian Lain

Jacket in white, red and lilac cotton tweed embellished with pink touch fasteners, and ruffled sleeves, skirt in pale pink lace and fantasy pearls necklace embellished with a pendant, CHANEL

194

Long dress in multi-coloured silk chiffon, booties in pink perforated suede finished, necklace in golden metal embellished with fantasy pearls, bracelet in metal embellished with coloured rhinestones and resin earring, CHANEL

196

Jacket in multi-coloured cotton tweed embellished with navy blue touch fasteners, dress in salmon pink crĂŞpe georgette and salmon pink lace, booties in pink perforated suede finished and Chanelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Gabrielle bag in quilted nude leather and smooth black leather, CHANEL

198

Short-sleeved dress in multi-coloured printed silk, pendant in silvery metal, and red and green resin and earring in golden metal embellished with pink rhinestones, CHANEL

Jacket in white, silver and gold tweed embellished with braid, top in pink silk crĂŞpe and pink lace, shorts in pink silk crĂŞpe and necklace in silvery metal embellished with fantasy pearls, CHANEL

200

Jacket in multi-coloured tweed embellished with blue jersey braid, gilet in multi-coloured tweed embellished with blue jersey braid, dress in salmon pink crĂŞpe georgette and salmon pink lace and skirt in multi-coloured tweed embellished with blue jersey braid, CHANEL

202

Model: Frida Aasen at Women Management NY Hair and makeup: Ronnie Peterson using Chanel Cosmetics Manicurist: Chiharu Styling assistant: Jacqueline Benn Schuppe Local production: Elizabeth Remigio Production: Louis Agency

Jacket in red, green and white cotton tweed embellished with red jersey braid and green touch fasteners, blouse in green crĂŞpe de chine, booties in pink perforated suede finished and necklace in golden metal, and red and green resin embellished with rhinestones and fantasy pearls, CHANEL

204

Coastal Photographed by Thierno Sy Styled by Sonia Bedere

B l i s s

Our first days on shore broach new territory with far-flung fabrics. Beaded fishnet and delicate petal embellishments collide with layered lace and feather light furs.

Top, DIOR | shorts, WANDA NYLON

206

Jacket, trousers and shoes, GIVENCHY

208

Dress, ELLERY

Bodysuit, BALMAIN

Dress, VALENTINO

212

Bra and panties, WOLFORD | top and trousers, WANDA NYLON

Trousers, shirt and fur, BARBARA BUI | shoes, ELLERY

216

Dress, MARC JACOBS

218

Dress, ELLERY

Shirt, BARBARA BUI

Model: Joy Van Der Eecken at Oui Management Hair and makeup: Laure Dansou Local production: KP Production Production: Louis Agency

Dress, CÃ&#x2030;LINE

222

Dress, MIU MIU | top, VON ROSE COUTURE | necklace, SHARRA PAGANO

Graphic D

Studio 54â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s billowing sleeves, swinging bellbottoms and shift silhouettes bear the brown and beige palette of the era. Seventies styles are brought back to 2017 with unexpected material pairings from full feathered trimmings to latex on the legs.

Photographed by Massimo Zanusso Styled by Simona Melegari

224

Coat, dress and shoes, BALENCIAGA | earrings, MARNI

Blouse and trousers, PRADA | socks, VON ROSE COUTURE | shoes, ERMANNO SCERVINO | earrings, MARNI

Dress, SPORTMAX | top, VON ROSE COUTURE | earrings, MARNI

Jacket, CHANEL | trousers and shoes, LOUIS VUITTON

228

Dress, GIVENCHY | stockings, VON ROSE COUTURE | shoes, ERMANNO SCERVINO

Dress, NÂ° 21

Blazer, MAX MARA | shirt, MICHAEL KORS | latex top, VON ROSE COUTURE | earrings, MARNI

232

Dress, EMILIO PUCCI | shoes, EMANUEL UNGARO | earrings, MARNI

Blouse, FENDI | latex top, VON ROSE COUTURE | leather trousers, HERMÃ&#x2C6;S | shoes, MULBERRY | earrings and bracelet, GIULIANA MANCINELLI BONAFACCIA

234

Jacket and earrings, MARNI | top, VON ROSE COUTURE

Blouse and trousers, BLUMARINE | latex top and socks, VON ROSE COUTURE | shoes, ERMANNO SCERVINO | earrings, MARNI

236

Dress, COACH 1941 | top, VON ROSE COUTURE | jumper, OPENING CEREMONY | shoes, BALENCIAGA

Coat, trousers and belt, CÃ&#x2030;LINE | shirt, COMEFORBREAKFAST | earrings, MARNI

238

Dress, top and leggings, STELLA MCCARTNEY | shoes, EMANUEL UNGARO | latex top and gloves, VON ROSE COUTURE

Model: Caterina Ravaglia at IMG Hair styling: Daniela Magginetti Makeup artist: Mikaela Alleyson Editor: Kelly Baldwin

Evening Promise Precious coloured stones form the illustrious foliage of springâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s secret gardens, glistening and ready to embellish our attire for the months ahead.

Photographed by Thierno Sy Styled by Sonia Bedere

Precieuses Rose earrings, DIOR HIGH JEWELLERY

Precieuses Trefle ring and Caprice necklace, DIOR HIGH JEWELLERY

Precieuses Rose rings, DIOR HIGH JEWELLERY

Precieuses Trefle necklace, DIOR HIGH JEWELLERY

Canse Diamant Jaune earrings and Incroyables Et Merveilleuses pendant, DIOR HIGH JEWELLERY

Precieuses Rose earrings, DIOR HIGH JEWELLERY

Model: Elodia Prieto at Silent Models Makeup artist: Saloi Jeddi Hair stylist: Tobias Sagner Production: Louis Agency

Compiled by Sophie Pasztor

250 HIGH NOTES

CÃ&#x2030;LINE

1 2

Lost At Sea Delve into the blue with mesmeric fine jewellery pieces from designers such as Piaget and Chopard. Their inclusion of calming aquatic colours presents a feel of serenity, complemented by the refinement of sleek, untainted silver.

1. PIAGET | 2. SUTRA | 3. CARRERA Y CARRERA | 4. ISTANA | 5. PASQUALE BRUNI

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GIVENCHY

2 3

Ode To Surrealism Fanciful pieces are imagined in a luxurious and poetic homage to creativity. Animals spring to life in enchanting ways, while other designs allude to a supernatural presence. Gilded serpent earrings with ruby encrusted eyes border on the fantastical, as eerie skeleton bracelets redefine the notion of beauty. 1. SARAH & SEBASTIAN @net-a-porter | 2. ILEANA MAKRI @stylebop | 3. BVLGARI | 4. LYDIA COURTEILLE | 5. ROBERTO COIN

4 5

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T h e C o llec tio n

Serpenti necklace, BVLGARI

Roman Roots Bulgari pays homage to its Italian heritage with a new high jewellery collection. The eager anticipation of the new high jewellery innovations for 2017 has been intensified through the release of Bulgari’s latest haute joaillerie assortment. The rarefied beauty of the pieces captures the colourful energy of the Maison’s Italian roots, described to resemble the blues of the Mediterranean, the pinks of a Roman sunset and the golds of an ancient age. Separated into three themes – Italian Extravaganza, Mediterranean Eden and Roman Heritage – all of these are tailored to a specific element of the label’s Italian culture, be it through nature or a city’s magnificent design history. Bulgari’s DIVA necklace mimics the architectural detail of Rome, formed in pink gold and sprinkled malachites and pavé diamonds, offers a sense of familiarity through a recognisable motif, appealing to the classic woman. It’s the Maison’s Divas’ Dream Gioco e Vanità necklace that catches our eye as the most remarkable, however, taking on the jovial concept of peacocking through daring colour formations, seen via a combination of emeralds, blue sapphires, rubellites, pink tourmalines, amethysts, spinel, rubies and diamonds.

Words by Sophie Pasztor

with round, brilliant-cut diamonds, while their Serpenti necklace in pink gold, with

Diva necklace, BVLGARI

Divas’ Dream Gioco e Vanità necklace, BVLGARI

256

Wat c h N otes

Windup

Words by Annie Darling

One of the world’s most important annual timepiece fairs, Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) brings together the industry’s finest watchmakers to showcase their extraordinary creations. Burnt-bronzed beauties, military chronographs, frosted gold cases and diamonddialed wristwatches have all made an appearance in anticipation for 2017. With horological showstoppers aplenty, here are MOJEH’s top picks from this year’s extraordinary edition.

258 9,923 brilliant-cut diamonds, totalling 50.06 carats, and 353 baguette-cut diamonds, totalling 15.85 carats, adorn the dramatic mirror-polished and blackened gold hand Diamond Fury timepiece, AUDEMARS PIGUET

DIAMONDS ARE FOREVER Too much is never enough when it comes to diamond-drenched dials. Equal parts objet and timekeeper, these tickers are a glittering array of bejewelled silver and gold, and are proving elegant alternatives for the wrist. Unusual in that it has no hands, the supremely elegant PanthĂ¨re Jouseuse de Cartierâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s self-winding calibre 9918 MC offers a 48-hour power reserve, while the complicated movement consists of 214 components and 35 gemstones, CARTIER

Inspired by the Maison’s beloved and iconic panther motif, the limited and numbered edition Panthère de Cartier in white gold combines sparkling, brilliant-cut diamonds with black enamel spots, CARTIER

Boasting a white gold and diamond-set 25mm case complete with sapphire glass, the Charms Extraordinaire Fée Rose de Nuit depicts a fairy admiring a sculpted mother-of-pearl floweret, VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

The Heure Marine secret watch combines the ultimate in technical prowess with cabochon-cut sapphires, emeralds and two sugar loaf-cut Sri Lankan sapphires that weigh a total of 27.34 carats, VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

260 Slate-grey hour markers adorn the Altiplano Gold Bracelet’s white dial, 18-karat pink gold casing and folding clasp. Bevelled bridges and a 534P mechanical self-winding movement accentuate the creation’s clean-cut aesthetic, PIAGET

Inspired by a Thirties motif known as the paillette, the Bouton D’or features three rows of concave or convex elements. Fully set with diamonds, fluid lines accentuate this wristwatch’s sparkling surface, VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

Going for Gold Whether you prefer a vintage design with brassed edges or the bold yellow sheen of newly unearthed metal, a solid gold timepiece provides an entirely different sensation on the wrist that’ll have heads turning.

The latest Saxonia has slender hands and baton-style hour markers that perfectly complement its motherof-pearl dial and 35mm pink gold case, which is paired with a white alligator leather strap, A. LANGE & SÖHNE

The revamped hand-held TimeWalker collection pays tribute to history’s most desirable retro stopwatches. Each model is rigorously tested to simulate real-life wear for over 500 hours to ensure its exceptional performance, MONTBLANC

Altiplano’s 60th Anniversary 40mm timepiece in 18-karat yellow gold is a classic creation, with a standout ultra-thin mechanical self-winding movement beautifully worn with a rich, emerald-green alligator strap, PIAGET

Modern and Minimal From muscular, sports-luxe styles to the superbly elegant and refined, a pared-back aesthetic with minimal frills makes for a traditional (and practical) watch that’s sure to stand the test of time.

Staying true to the Maison’s nautical roots, the Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Automatic Bronzo is water-resistant to 300-metres and features a 47mm brushed bronze case, as well as the Maison’s exceptional P.9010 calibre, PANERAI

262 The eye is immediately drawn to the suspended flying mechanism within the oversized Geophysic Tourbillon Universal Time’s 43.5mm platinum case; a watch as fascinating as it is exclusive, JAEGER-LECOULTRE

The fifth masterpiece in the Maison’s Pour le Mérite series, the Tourbograph Perpetual marries a fuse-and-chain transmission with a state-ofthe-art chronograph, rattrapante function and perpetual calendar, A. LANGE & SÖHNE

Time, Space and Beyond The most impressive new wristwatches not only explore the themes of time and space, but break the boundaries of magnificent craftsmanship with extraordinary complications.

Featuring a 352-part self-winding calibre and a 36-hour power reserve, the Métiers d’Art Copernicus Celestial Spheres 2460 RT collection is inspired by Andreas Cellarius, a 17th Century Dutch-German cartographer, VACHERON CONSTANTIN

All in the Details Meticulously worked to show off a highly crafted combination of different techniques, miniature portraitures and layered construction lends this year’s watches a new level of technical finesse and sophistication.

From the intricate movement to the champagne dial and bronze-plated buckled strap, the antique-styled 1858 Chronograph Tachymeter Limited Edition is as vintage, and decadent, as it gets, MONTBLANC

Issued in an 88-piece limited edition, the automobile-inspired Excalibur Spider Automatic Skeleton’s black minute-circle and pink gold hand tips are surprisingly feminine for such an architectural design, ROGER DUBUIS

Within the Lady Arpels Papillon Automate’s 40mm white gold case, diamond-set bezel and serti-neige setting, is a curved miniature painting of a pastoral landscape and fluttering lavender-kissed butterfly, VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

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M OJEH J ewellery

A Golden Inheritance In opting to remodel heirloom jewellery, affluent gem connoisseurs are ensuring that their familyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most cherished trinkets will be worn for generations to come. MOJEH discovers a burgeoning trend.

Words by Annie Darling

Ruby Butterfly Brooch, set with 1,070 pieces of diamonds totalling 72.04 carats, CINDY CHAO

266 The Rajasthan High Jewellery Necklace, showcasing a 136.97-carat carved Colombian emerald, CARTIER

Marqueterie Brooch, made in 1985, designed as a circular-cut diamond ribbon bow, VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Deux Feuilles Brooch, made in 1956, set with calibré-cut sapphires and diamonds, VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

Bee Brooch, made in 1964, set with diamonds, VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

Beloved fashion figure Daisy Fellowes, daughter

unique techniques in jewellery design and relief

meaning and, more often than not, there’s a

of Duke Decazes and sewing machine heiress

cutting. Cartier, inspirited by this redoubtable

sentimental reason behind why one desires a

to the Singer fortune, commissioned from

dynasty, took inspiration from the Mughal’s

particular piece. A universal form of adornment,

Cartier the handsome Hindu Necklace in

adventurous colour combinations, which

each creation has been heartily infused with

1936. A truly resplendent creation, the piece

continue to inspire the Maison’s high jewellery

the emotional life of its cherished predecessor

was crafted from an elaborate string of rubies,

collections today.

and, subsequently, the remodelling of family

emeralds and briolette-cut sapphires, as well as

The insatiable attraction and comforting

jewels is fast becoming a growing trend for

fluted and melon-scooped beads. The French

nostalgia that surrounds antique jewellery has

the modern woman. High jewellery heirlooms

socialite famously wore the choker to what was

long been understood and catered to. The

and gemstones are increasingly being refitted

later dubbed ‘The Ball of the Century’; a lavish

Rajasthan Necklace, which was unveiled last

into contemporary, bespoke pieces that can be

gathering hosted by eccentric multi-millionaire

year, is an example of the Hindu choker’s

passed on through the generations.

art collector Charles de Beistegui at Venice’s

long-lasting significance. The latest addition

Isabella Daniels is the first of a third generation

grandiose Palazzo Labia in 1951.

to Cartier’s instantly recognisable Tutti Frutti

to join her family’s business, luxury jeweller

Fellowes’s Hindu necklace resurrected the

collection, which was first popularised in

Yoko London. “Often, people inherit a special

upper-class elite’s interest in audacious floral

1901 when the Maison’s founder designed a

piece of jewellery through a family member,”

motifs, reminiscent of the formidable Mughal

multi-hued pendant for Queen Alexandra of

she tells MOJEH. “While the piece is beautiful,

Empire that had ruled over northern India until

England, the Rajasthan proudly showcases an

it might not suit the particular style of the

the 18th Century. Precious gems, handpicked

awe-inspiring 136.98-carat carved Colombian

person who has inherited it. Consequently,

for their antiquity, personality and (above all)

emerald, which is intricately engraved with an

the piece can sit in a safe without being

striking beauty, had long been carefully worked

astonishingly elaborate efflorescent motif.

worn for years. We’ve had cases with clients

by highly-skilled Indian artisans, who utilised

After all, heritage jewellery is weighted in

in similar situations to this, where the piece

holds great sentimental and emotional value.” Independent Parisian jeweller and experienced gemmologist Lydia Courteille agrees. “I think it’s a pleasure to be able to use stones that you’ve had in your family for a long time,” she concurs. “It’s a great shame to leave pieces in your vault without getting any use out of them. By remodelling heirloom jewellery, you’re able to give a second life to pieces that belonged to your ancestors.” After all, in an age of impersonal digital media, building social connectedness through nostalgia is an easy way to leverage optimistic feelings that take us down memory lane. The modern woman is more likely to wear her grandmother’s demure blue sapphire engagement ring, even if it doesn’t fit quite right, because she wants to forge a meaningful connection between her past and present. “Most people who inherit heirloom jewellery have a very powerful emotional connection with the person who is passing the jewellery onto them,” says Amit Dhamani, CEO and managing director of Dhamani Jewels. “Buying or creating a new piece doesn’t carry the same history or stories behind it. For example, if the piece comes from a person’s grandmother, they want to keep the emotions and memories they have of her with them while they wear the piece.” “Remodelling heirloom jewellery allows the piece to retain its sentimental value,” adds Daniels, “because we’re still using the original materials as we refresh and modernise the overall design.” Various jewellers, including British-based gemmologist Fiona Knapp, Hong Kong-based artisan Wallace Chan and Taiwanese bespoke designer Anna Hu (who has worked for Christie’s, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Harry Winston), recast gemstones into new

Epi de Blé Brooch, set with a pearshaped diamond weighing 2.21-carats, and matching earrings, CHAUMET

268 designs, or melt down a piece’s precious metals so it can be completely reshaped. Therefore, it’s easy to understand a person’s passion for old-cut diamonds, with many Joyous Elephant on Vase Necklace, featuring jadeite, green tourmaline, lapis lazuli and mother of pearl, WALLACE CHAN

jewel enthusiasts spending years tracking down rare, high-quality antique stones from around the world for use in the creation of bespoke pieces – whether that be an exquisite amethyst and chalcedony stone reminiscent in colour of St Tropez’s kaleidoscopic waters, or a blush pink tourmaline handcarved to dovetail like puzzle pieces. There are, however, instances whereby a piece is considered too valuable to remodel. Fabergé, for example, creates extraordinary timepieces and objets d’art, as well as bespoke commissions for a discerning international clientele. Founded in 1842, the Maison became official goldsmith to the Russian Imperial Court, for whom the house created exquisite jewellery. Dr Géza von Habsburg, son of the late Joseph Francis, Archduke of Austria, and the late Anna Monica, Princess of Saxony and Archduchess of Austria, is an internationally renowned expert on Fabergé. “Virtually all of Fabergé’s joaillerie, and by that I mean jewels with substantial precious stones, were broken up by the Bolsheviks after 1918 and sold in the West soon thereafter,” he tells MOJEH. “What’s survived, chiefly a number of tiaras and necklaces, were outside Russia at the time of the 1917 Revolution.” These were left unmodified, he reveals, “due to their exquisite and often very modern, typically Fabergé designs, which made, and still make up, their unique attraction.” “The most important factor to consider when altering a vintage piece is the rarity of the period or era the piece was made in,” adds Dhamani. “These invaluable pieces have history and tradition that has captured our admiration engraved into them. When altering vintage jewellery, one wants to keep the alteration as minimalistic as possible, in order to preserve the uniqueness of the piece and the history of the time it was made in.” Noteworthy gems, however, are easier to alter than a completed piece. Harry Winston has long transformed illustrious stones into art and has subsequently revolutionised modern jewellery design. In 1949, he acquired one of the most famous jewels of all, the 45.52-carat Hope Diamond, which had been painstakingly mined in India before becoming a phenomenal centerpiece for the crown jewels in prerevolutionary France. Other notable acquisitions included the South African 726-carat Jonker, which he split into 13 separate – but equally stunning – statement pieces. Cindy Chao has also designed heritage jewellery

Impératrice Ruby Tassel Pendant, FABERGÉ

Impératrice Emerald Tassel Pendant, FABERGÉ

Spiral Diamond and Amethyst Tassel Pendant, FABERGÉ

from a specific, noteworthy gem. Sketches for

The Maison’s heritage collection gathers vintage

to understand how to best deconstruct and

her 2015/16 Ruby Butterfly, a creation that

high jewellery pieces that were produced by the

reconstruct the creations,” affirms Daniels.

took two years to complete, first began when

jeweller between the Twenties and the Eighties.

“The choice of how a jewellery creation should

the artisan was presented with a 5.16-carat

“These pieces are many years old,” reminds

be worn and its suitability also needs careful

Burmese non-heat pigeon’s blood ruby that she

Dhamani, which can cause difficulties during the

thought,” adds master goldsmith Elizabeth

fell in love with. “Each gem has a different story,”

remodelling process. “The strength of the links

Gage, one of the most influential British

she tells MOJEH. “The jewels are an extension

and metal weaken due to wear and tear over

jewellery designers of the last five decades.

of the artist’s emotion. Through creativity and

the years. Remodelling doesn’t only include

“For example, if the owner wants to wear a

craftsmanship, I envision a piece of art jewellery

improving the look of the jewellery, but also

specific stone as a ring, that stone must be

that embodies vibrant life and movement, that

working to ensure that the piece remains intact.

a hard stone, not a soft or damageable one.”

creates a unique mood, as well as a connection

This means making sure that the stone settings

While the art of remodelling high jewellery has

for each viewer.”

are secure, that the links are strong, and that

existed for centuries, recycling heritage items,

The exceptional Pivoine Clip, crafted in the

the gemstones are undamaged while preserving

or parts of them, has become more popular

early 20th Century by Van Cleef & Arpels, is

the integrity of the piece.”

than ever. Whether it’s the simple resizing

a piece that achieves just that; 706 rubies

According to both Dhamani and Daniels, it’s

of a geometric, vintage wedding ring, or the

weighing 71-carats and 239 diamonds

important when altering heritage jewellery to

ornate resetting of gems from a family brooch

weighing 29.72-carats adorn the delicate pair

ensure that the creation’s authentic period

into earrings for several family members, the

of brooches, which were purchased in 1946

details are preserved, so that the final product

range of possibilities is endless. The best part:

by Mahmoud Fakhry Pacha, the Egyptian

blends seamlessly with the original. “One must

The emotional connection you’ll retain with a

ambassador in Paris, most likely on behalf of

pay very close attention to the structure of the

remodelled item is truly unique and will serve as

Princess Fawzia of Egypt, sister of King Farouk.

piece and the way it was engineered in order

a lasting union of the past, present, and future.

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The Muse

Bella Hadid photographed for Boghossian’s new Les Merveilles collection

A Powerful U

While the success of a brand typically rests with its pieces, the appointment of a creative muse proves to be just as significant. In what can only be described as a perfect pairing, Swiss Maison Boghossian announced model Bella Hadid as the face of the label and this year’s Les Merveilles collection. A partnership that has blossomed for two years works to further develop the house’s ethos on merging East and West aesthetics. The tale of Boghossian begins in Armenia, trailing the Silk Route through the Middle East and on to Europe, American background supports this philosophy. Accentuated through striking shards of light, Hadid showcases the Les Merveilles collection, highlighting the beauty and intricacy of its craftsmanship. The collection sees the innovative artisans at Boghossian use their expert skill to pioneer a unique technique labelled ‘Merveilles’ mounting – a process that artistically binds precious stones to a seemingly invisible frame. Wrapping the stones around the shapes’ full circumference allows for uninterrupted flow of light from one diamond to the next, magnifying their brilliance.

Merveille Earrings in 18-karat rose gold with one hundred and forty round-shaped amethyst, BOGHOSSIAN Words by Sophie Pasztor

drawing inspiration from passing cultures. Hadid’s exotic Dutch, Palestinian and

Photographed by Alexandre FĂŠlix

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t h e c o llec tio n

The Spirit of Camellia Chanel’s latest fine jewellery collection, titled Bouton de Camélia, takes inspiration from the Maison founder’s favourite flower – the short-blooming camellia.

referred to as the Chinese rose, became a significant symbol of everlasting love and affection. The motif’s geometric roundness and symmetrical petals are unmistakable in the Maison’s latest fine jewellery collection, titled Bouton de Camélia, as well as the late-couturier’s Parisian apartment at 31 Rue Cambon. The spectacular space, which has been left intact since Chanel’s death in 1971, abounds with the brand’s signature style – from the glossy, Top to bottom: Broche Bouton de Camélia set with 48 brilliant-cut diamonds | Collier Bouton de Camélia necklace set with 79 brilliant-cut diamonds, CHANEL FINE JEWELLERY

lacquered black surfaces to scrumptious, cognac hues. Crystal chandeliers and antique Coromandel screens are generously interspersed with ‘des fleurs de Camélia’, taking pride of Blooming in late winter, but usually in spring,

extraordinaire, Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel, first

this exceptional flower is notoriously tricky to

fell in love with the camellia after reading

grow, but the blossom’s rarity and otherworldly

Alexandre Dumas’s adventure novel, La Dame

beauty aren’t the only characteristics that

aux Camélias. First published in 1848 and

captivated the world’s most famous fashion

subsequently adapted for the stage, it’s one

designer. The camellia’s emblematic value

of the greatest romance stories of all time, in

also proved important to Chanel. In Eastern

which the heroine wears an exquisite ivory

culture, the bud has long been established as

camellia, evoking the play’s principal theme –

an emblem of longevity and purity, having been

love’s ultimate sacrifice.

thought by Buddhists to protect households

The sweetest of flowers have acted as a muse

from evil spirits.

for countless creatives throughout the time-

One of the most instantly recognisable pennants

worn centuries. For Chanel, the shapely and

in all of the brand’s wares, the Maison’s Bouton

immaculate camellia, which is also commonly

de Camélia fine jewellery collection celebrates

Words by Annie Darling

place in the illustrious icon’s coveted home. It is rumoured that fashion designer

Collier Bouton de Camélia necklace in 18-karat white gold, set with 79 brilliantcut diamonds, worn with the Bague Bouton de Camélia ring in 18-karat white gold, set with 41 brilliant-cut diamonds, CHANEL FINE JEWELLERY

Chanel’s adoration for this celestial flower.

the little black dress, the two-tone shoes,

camellia so frequently, as if it were a statement

Each alluring piece beautifully showcases

the camellia, that transcend time and are

jewel. Additionally, without scent or thorns, it

the simplicity and delicacy of the camellia in

regularly reinterpreted”. Bouton de Camélia

never interfered with Chanel’s most notorious

every capacity, with fully-paved and brilliant-

substantiates just that, by once again utilising

and sought-after perfume: N°5, the ultimate

cut diamonds that exude a radiant femininity.

a flower that has been featured on a range

in elegance and luxury. Among Bouton de

Exuberant and modern, the collection’s

of lambskin pouches and wallets, as well

Camélia’s phenomenal pieces, notable creations

brooches, rings, pendants and earrings

as decoration on sunglasses. Since the

include the Collier Bouton de Camélia pendant

evoke the sumptuous spirit of Chanel herself,

Twenties, the floret has appeared regularly on

necklace, which is set in 18-karat white gold

by showcasing the indelible mark that this

Chanel’s quintessential little black dresses,

along with 79 dazzling brilliant-cut diamonds

underestimated flower left on both the couturier

been meticulously embroidered into signature

for a total weight of 1.69-carats. Additionally,

and her distinguished designs.

collections, and embellished in the exemplary

the clean-cut and unassuming Bo Bouton

Karl Lagerfeld famously acknowledged in an

beading of Chanel slippers.

de Camélia earrings make a tremendous

interview with Vogue that his label’s founder

The clarity and universal appeal of this motif

statement, and boast 82 stunning brilliant-cut

had “strong icons such as the tweed jacket,

is most likely why Chanel chose to wear the

diamonds for a total weight of 0.65-carats.

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Ha i r a nd B eau t y Tr e nds

Hair & Beauty ss17

CAROLINA HERRERA

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SPRINGâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S SWEEP

Suitable for both dressy and casual occasions, the half up-do is easy and effortless. For a more polished appearance, comb back

and secure tightly, or create a slicked back wet look. 1. ROLAND MOURET | 2. CAROLINA HERRERA | 3. JASON WU | 4. ZAC POSEN

UNDER WRAPS

Headbands are one of the most versatile beauty tools for spring. Coordinate a fabric band to an outfit or look for statement styles such as Louis Vuittonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s black leather versions. 1. ANYA HINDMARCH | 2. BALMAIN | 3. ERDEM | 4. LOUIS VUITTON

278

Zingy shades of yellow and orange capture the seasonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s upbeat mood. Apply citrus shadows with a high shine finish or matte lipsticks in hues of

CITRUS COLLECTIVE

coral, marigold and tangerine.

2 1. BLUGIRL | 2. SPORTMAX | 3. MARY KATRANTZOU | 4. GUCCI

Draw attention to both eyes and lips with multifaceted makeup looks. Pair a metallic smoky eye with a matte red lip or nude gloss for refined

2 1. CAROLINA HERRERA | 2. ELIE SAAB | 3. PHILIPP PLEIN | 4. JILL STUART

TWO TONE

statement dressing.

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STRAIGHT AND NARROW

The middle part debuted on the runways in many forms – softened with gentle waves at Philosophy and slick and strong

at David Koma. Keep flyaways untamed for a more casual look. 1. DAVID KOMA | 2. BURBERRY PRORSUM | 3. PHILOSOPHY | 4. CHLOÉ

CROP CHOP

Seen on countless runways, including Prada and Versace, the crop established itself as the haircut of the season. For fine hair, consider choppy layers or frame the face with a bob effect. 1. VERSACE | 2. PRADA | 3. SPORTMAX | 4. ELIE SAAB

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From frosty to azure, a lick of blue shadow is both elegant and dramatic. Blend into metallics with brown undertones for evening chic, or add a

SUMMER BLUES

messy sweep for daywear.

2 1. VICTORIA BECKHAM | 2. emporio ARMANI | 3. JEREMY SCOTT | 4. EMILIO PUCCI

Graphic monochrome shadow applied in paintbrush strokes becomes one of the seasonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most striking looks. Take cues from Vivienne Westwood and smudge

2 1. YOHJI YAMAMOTO | 2. ANTONIO MARRAS | 3. VIVIENNE WESTWOOD | 4. TOME

CHECKMATE

around the eye for smoky appeal.

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BLUSHED BEAUTY

Eyeshadows in rose gold tones convey subtle elegance. To create a glossy lid, apply a

to crease and dust a metallic shadow over the top. 1. MARC JACOBS | 2. MARCO DE VINCENZO | 3. TADASHI SHOJI | 4. ANNA SUI

Compiled by Mary Keenan

pink lipstick from the lashline

Retro Revival

Gentle Fifties-style waves exude vintage glamour. Keep tousled and less contrived for daywear and lift the roots with a holding spray to add volume for event dressing. 1. MOSCHINO | 2. ELISABETTA FRANCHI | 3. VANESSA SEWARD | 4. PHILIPP PLEIN

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M OJEH B eau ty

Beauty News From the matte lip staples that take us through to spring/ summer to Dior’s latest eco-friendly launch, MOJEH guides you through March’s unmissable beauty updates.

For nourishment: Guerlain reveal royal jelly for the eyes

Targeting the sensitive skin surrounding the eye contour, Guerlain introduce Abeille Royale, an eye cream that uses high concentrations of pure and unprocessed royal jelly to reverse the signs of ageing. The ingredient has demonstrated a highly nourishing action prompting dermal cell renewal and protective properties, especially with regard to oxidative stress that can be induced by environmental aggressors, like pollution. The balm instantly smoothens, sculpts and envelops, offering targeted action for an intense

For the skin: Dior launches Life

For the senses: Elie Saab unveils a limited edition fragrance

In response to recent penchants for beauty products with pared back and

For this limited edition variation of the couturier’s

holistic ingredients, Dior has launched a new skincare line, called Life. The

Elie Saab Le Parfum, award-winning perfumer

range offers essential formulas free of unnecessary ingredients in eco-

Francis Kurkdjian was inspired by the designer’s

designed packaging, with two star ingredients acting in synergy – Haberlea

creations, referencing his dazzling gowns stitched

leaf extract, an ingredient that is gentle on the skin, and mallow from

in gold thread. Notes reflected in the shimmering

the Dior Gardens to boost water circulation. The range includes a celadon

shade include sweet orange from Brazil, orange

blue sorbet crème, masks with jelly, balm and clay textures, and a powder.

blossom, carnal jasmine, and ylang-ylang.

Images courtesy of Christian Louboutin, Guerlain, Elie Saab, Tom Ford and Dior

treatment to replenish the energy in our eyes.

For enhanced eyes: Christian Louboutin introduce their inaugural eye collection

Luxurious and slender, Christian Louboutin introduces Les Yeux Noirs Lash Amplifying Lacquer Mascara, Oeil Vinyle Luminous Ink Liner, Oeil Velours Velvet Eye Definer, and Brow Definer. The collection is artfully designed to provide calligraphy-like definition and precision upon application. Taking inspiration from Queen Nefertiti’s infamous sculpted eyes and the designer’s travels to India, the pieces work in tandem to create intensely defined eyes, with highlights like the surprisingly wearable, one-of-a-kind red liquid liner in the brand’s signature shade.

For this season’s lips: Tom Ford bring us matte Lips & Boys

As part of the third adaptation of the lip colour collection named after the men Ford finds admirable and inspiring, the brand adds 25 new shades including for the first time, 10 modernmatte finishes. From nuanced nudes to bold reds, a blend of specially-treated pigments deliver intense colour payoff in matte, cream and metallic.

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B e au ty N ote

Go Gold Powerful by nature and feminine by design, gilded beauty takes over, returning as our preferred metal. Use Guerlain’s l’Or primer, crafted with pure 24-karat gold flakes for the perfect makeup base, or Bobbi Brown’s Prosecco eyeshadow for a delicate dusting of shimmer on your lids.

Photographed by Borna Ahadi, styled by Sophie Pasztor

Left to right: Face Illuminator – Addiction, LAURA MERCIER at Harvey Nichols - Dubai | Sequin Eye Shadow – Prosecco, Bobbi Brown at Harvey Nichols - Dubai | L’OR Radiance Concentrate with Pure Gold, GUERLAIN | Rouge Coco Shine – 126 Beige Doré Limited Edition, CHANEL | La Laque Couture – 29 Dore Orfevre, YSL BEAUTY at Harvey Nichols - Dubai

Image courtesy of Getty photographed by Kari Goodnough and Net-a-Porter

Fighting oil with oil is said to be the secret to the dewy, youthful skin that we all desire. But, are facial oils just another fad, or do they add sustenance to our skincare routine? MOJEH investigates.

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M OJEH B eau ty

Having spent the first part of the millennium

and apricot can address oily, problematic

mavens alike have spoken out about their

with an oil-free mantra, we welcomed the

skin that needs some balance. And,

penchant for plant-based produce, with

rise of facial oils with an admitted measure

surprisingly, they have been a fundamental

Sophia Loren crediting her incredible skin

of caution. Secretions have widely been

part of our bathing rituals for millennia.

(aged 80) to regular olive oil baths.

named our skin’s nemesis in recent years,

In Australia, emu oil has been used to

So, what is the secret behind their staying

with blotting paper and mattifying powders

moisturise the skin of aboriginals for the last

power? “Facial oils can be quite beneficial

making up our makeup staples, and stringent

40,000 years, while Cleopatra was known to

to our skin,” says Dr Jeanette Graf, a high-

formulations underpinning our skincare

envelop her skin in an arsenal of plant-based

profile New York-based dermatologist. “Oily

routines. Frankly, the thought of using oil

produce, including castor, olive and sesame.

skin, in particular, can benefit from a variety

to combat oil seemed foreign, begging the

Mineral and synthetic oils had their moment

of different oils, including tea tree, eucalyptus,

question: Will facial oils make our skin break

towards the end of the 19th Century, with

geranium, patchouli and lavender.” As Graf

out or do they work miracles? First of all,

the innovation of petroleum-based products

suggests, natural oils are just the type of at-

finding the right oil for your face is key. Coconut

like Vaseline and baby oil; but, they were

home beauty remedy that has recently found

or almond are right for you if you struggle

soon sidelined, with research concluding that

favour, part of our wider movement towards a

with dehydrated, flaky skin (that could be

they were comedomic, resulting in congested

more holistic and plant-based lifestyle. Argan

related to climate change), while lighter jojoba

skin. More recently, celebrities and beauty

is probably the most notable of the lot, having

The Holistic Healer: de Mamiel, Spring Facial Oil Best for: Natural skincare lovers A seasonal creation contrived by acupuncturist, aromatherapist and healing holistic facialist, Annee de Mamiel, the range is targeted to help skin cope with seasonal shifts. The limited edition oils are made four times a year, and are packed with carefully selected, precious, fragrant essences and skin-plumping plant ingredients from the purest natural organic sources – to nourish skin, mind and soul. Spring’s offering draws together juniper, calming geranium and healing calendula to soothe and brighten.

The Original: Rodin, Olio Lusso Face Oil Best for: Overall skintone improvement

first risen to beauty fame in 2007, when model Josie Maran launched her argan-based line,

Known as the woman behind the face oil revolution, Linda Rodin’s formula blends 11 essential oils, including neroli, argan, and jojoba. Revered as a miracle worker, Rodin’s highly

crediting the oil made from kernels of the

hydrating oil is an indulgent ritual after a long day. Promising

argan tree as her beauty secret. Much loved

improved appearance, texture and tone, as well as enhanced

by those in the beauty spotlight, from Nicole

collagen production, Olio Lusso is a cult staple for anyone

Richie to Gisele Bündchen, today argan oil

looking to enter into the world of skin oils.

can be found in everything from lipstick to shampoo, highlighting the benefits of putting oil on skin and hair for women on a global scale. And, when it comes to pioneering the movement into the mass market, the likes of

The Inflammation Fighter: Herbivore, Lapis Facial Oil

Shu Uemura’s coveted cleansing oil made its

Best for: Problematic skin

mark in Japan during the Sixties, while Linda

This striking blue oil is more than a dreamy cabinet addition

Rodin’s iconic Olio Lusso has become a cult classic over the last decade.

– the luminous, aquamarine floral oil responsible for its colour is called blue tansy, a raw material that has recently found favour among small-batch skincare makers. The oil offers

Today’s versions are different from the

a component called Azulene, a potent anti-inflammatory

congesting mineral oils that came and went,

and antibacterial ingredient that reduces redness and

but how should they be used? “Coconut

clarifies the complexion – perfect for problematic skin.

oil from a jar does not work on every skin type,” warns Rebecca Treston, aesthetician and laser specialist at Euromed Clinic. “You need to make sure that you use an oil that will offer benefits for your skin type.” In general, options with a higher saturated fat

The Scientifically Superior: Dior Prestige, La Cure Best for: Anti-aging

content, like coconut oil, will feel heavier,

The perfect pairing between science and nature, Dior

while those that have been refined are more

Prestige has created a cold-pressed oil from the handpicked

easily absorbed, thanks to their smaller

produce of their own gardens, Rose de Granville.

molecules. “You can have aromatherapy oils that can balance the skin and oils that offer

A cultivated creation and the culmination of 10 painstaking years of research, a cutting-edge extraction process called dynamic enfleurage concentrates the molecular power of

antibacterial qualities,” Treston suggests. Dr

the roses into a bottle. Applied morning and night, the oils

Graf recommends applying pure oils as the

are part of a three-week, three-step process that claims to

last step in a night-time skincare routine,

completely reset the markers of inflammation, a condition

in order to seal in hydrating ingredients.

associated with accelerated aging.

Applying at night decreases the chance of bacteria landing on the skin and facilitates absorption while the skin rests. “If one wishes to use a hydrating oil in the morning, I would suggest using it under sunscreen to make

The Traveller: Joëlle Ciocco, Nourishing Elixir

sure the skin is well protected,” Graf adds.

Best for: Intense Hydration

From all-natural seasonal blends to

A powerful and nourishing formula that blends vitamins

formulations featuring rare ingredients and the latest scientific innovations here, we share our edit of oils suitable for any occasion and skin type.

A and E with rich omega-6 fatty acids, oils from apricot kernels, cinnamon, and jojoba, this highly hydrating oil calms and plumps the skin while protecting against environmental aggressors. This is a travel must-have, ideal for the dehydrated skin that we might encounter this summer.

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T i me l e s s

T o r s o Defying and redefining the cultural expectations surrounding their physique, we uncover the healthy habits behind todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s mature body icons.

Words by Laura Beaney

A New York Minute, Photographed by Romanleo, MOJEH Issue 05

294

Adriana Lima is known to follow the high impact routine of a professional boxer

current diet and lifestyle trends, Bozkurt refers to our increased interest in a more natural approach to hormone therapy that has focused attention on bioidentical hormones. These hormones have an identical molecular structure to the ones we make in our bodies. “They can keep the body functioning at a lower biological age,” Bozkurt Carmen Kass displayed a lithe and toned figure as she walked for Versace spring/summer17, aged 38

explains. “They can enhance appearance, metabolism, prevent free-radical damage and the rusting of cells.” But, an ageless body is not built upon science alone; other factors that we are all too familiar

This month, Elle Macpherson turns 53. It’s also

reassessed and redefined. While admittedly

with come into play and should begin early.

31 years since she was first photographed for

impressive, the shrinking frames of Madonna and

“We’re seeing these fabulously fit-looking women

the swimsuit issue of Sports Illustrated, and

Renée Zellweger that typified the early 2000s felt

with healthy figures because I think they have

somehow, she looks as incredible now as

a little frazzled and overworked. Today’s bodies

lived active, healthy lifestyles for decades,” says

she did back then. Macpherson is, of course,

look toned, but not over-stretched, slim but not

Martha Kaplan, an instructor at Soul Cycle New

known as ‘The Body’, her supremely toned

skinny. In the vein of Demi Moore and Goldie

York. Maryam Fattahi Salaam, founder and CEO

physique defying decades, but she is not alone

Hawn, plastic surgery has been credited with

of Physique 57 Dubai, is also in agreement.

in her looks. Today, more and more women are

Hollywood’s best-formed frames, but in later life,

“Women like Physique 57 devotee Norma Kamali

photographed, 30-plus, bikini clad and surfboard

the telltale signs start to show. “I think awareness

(aged 71), who work out every day and follow a

in tow like Macpherson and Cameron Diaz, or

of anti-aging techniques has grown and become

clean, balanced diet, are inspirational.” A pioneer

amid the boxing ring like Adriana Lima, who has

more sought after and accessible,” says Hacer

of athleisure as we know it today, wellness-

modelled for Victoria’s Secret for 17 years. Their

Bozkurt, IMD, nutritionist to Elle Macpherson. “I

obsessed fashion designer Kamali is a rarity,

figures front a new model for the 30, 40 and

believe another key ingredient of this trend is the

easily looking decades younger than her birth

50-year-olds, but what do they do differently?

widespread use of bio-identical hormones and

certificate tells. She credits her regular barre

Our ideal of the perfect body is constantly being

natural supplements,” she continues. As with

workouts and a diet rich in olive oil and low in

Gisele Bündchen, aged 36, consumes a diet high in plantbased local and organic produce negating sugar, flour, MSG, coffee, mushrooms, dairy, gluten, and nightshades

sugar and meat with her time-defying looks. We are all aware that a balanced diet and exercise equate to longevity, but how can we prepare for a physique like Kamali’s? “What may surprise people is that our body starts changing in our 20s,” warns Bozkurt, who also counts Connie Britton and Amanda de Cadenet amongst her high profile clientele. “As the production of nitric oxide declines, the cardiovascular system begins

Nutritionist Haçer Bozkurt is responsible for transforming the healthy habits of Elle MacPherson, aged 52

to get affected very gradually, which can affect energy and the metabolism also lowers. Then,

Images courtesy of Getty photographed by Fernanda Calfat

by our 40s and 50s, hormones are fluctuating and the body is changing – that’s when women

advises. “There’s less impact, but yet the classes

healthy diet with variety.” A declining metabolic

report to notice changes more dramatically.” It

also lengthen the muscles, giving a long, lean

rate does, however, call for greater culinary

is widely agreed that an overkill of cardio and

figure.” Another pioneer, for this approach was

caution. “All women would do well to avoid dairy,

a starvation diet can hinder the female form,

Callan Pinckney, the creator of Callanetics (the

wheat and really dramatically cut back and take

and that high intensity workouts are known to

core of barre) – she taught well into her 60s and

breaks from alcohol and coffee,” says Bozkurt.

increase physical signs of aging and put greater

maintained a dancer’s body that was made by

A body likes Macpherson’s in her 50s and

strain on muscle groups, resulting in an increased

small and simple floor-based exercises.

Kamali’s in her 70s commands time, dedication,

risk of injury. Amongst others, Grace Lazenby

The catwalks have echoed Hollywood’s cues with

and attention to strong health habits formed

has trained Courtney Cox, Sarah Silverman, and

more 30-plus tight and toned women like Carmen

young and upheld over decades, but there is one

Carrie Underwood and, like Kamali, she believes

Kass and Gisele Bündchen walking than ever

key element that all the experts are in agreement

that the power behind her clients’ prowess is in

before. “I don’t believe there is as much focus

on. “Many older women focus too much on what

the recent trend towards yoga, Pilates and barre,

on the ‘model slim’ diets now,” says Heather

they look like on the outside as they age,” says

adding up to flexibility, strength and the perfect

McKnight of Dubai’s ingredient-focused cooking

Kaplan. “They should focus on how the exercise

postural form. “These three workout regimens

school and café, Culinary Boutique. “Women

makes them feel on the inside and all of the health

are the best for women in their later years,” she

are more concerned with looking good from a

benefits and energy they are gaining from it.”

Eyes, Duo Eyeshadow in Portobello, Eye Paint in Black Valley and Audacious Mascara in Black Moon | Lips, Audacious Lipstick in Kate, Velvet Lip Liner in Belle Mare and Velvet Shadow Stick in Usbek, NARS

Power Pa l e t t e The colour codes of the age of opulence come into play once more. Eighties eyes in plums and reds are rebalanced by nuanced lips in matte nudes while bolder directions call for high impact colour in both.

Photographed by Carla Guler Styled by Kelly Baldwin

Complexion, Multiple in Copacabana, Sheer Glow Foundation in Deauville, Radiant Creamy Concealer in Vanilla, Soft Velvet Loose Powder in Snow and Blush in Sex Appeal | Eyes, Velvet Shadow Stick in Siros, Duo Eyeshadow in Thessalonique, Eyeshadow in Blondie, Eyeshadow in Kari, Duo Eyeshadow in Alhambra, Duo Eyeshadow in Bali, Duo Eyeshadow in Ashes to Ashes, Duo Eyeshadow in Portobell, Eye Paint in Black Valley, Larger than Life Long-Wear Eye Liner in Via Veneto, Audacious Mascara in Black Moon, Duo Eyeshadow in Pandora and Duo Eyeshadow in Kuala Lumpur | Lips, Velvet Lip Liner in Patong Beach and Lipstick in Kiss Me Stupid, NARS

298

Complexion, Multiple in Copacabana, Sheer Glow Foundation in Deauville, Radiant Creamy Concealer in Vanilla, Soft Velvet Loose Powder in Snow, Blush in Taos and Blush in Bumpy Ride | Eyes, Velvet Shadow Stick in GrandLarge, Duo Eyeshadow in Kauai, Eye Liner in Via Veneto, Duo Eyeshadow in Thessalonique, Duo Eyeshadow in Portobello, Duo Eyeshadow in Jolie PoupÃ©e and Audacious Mascara in Black Moon and Brow Gel in Athens | Lips, Audacious Lipstick in Angela, NARS

Skin, Multiple in Copacabana, Sheer Glow Foundation in Deauville, Radiant Creamy Concealer in Vanilla and Soft Velvet Loose Powder in Snow | Eyes, Duo Eyeshadow in Portobello, Eye Paint in Black Valley and Audacious Mascara in Black Moon | Lips, Audacious Lipstick in Kate and Velvet Shadow Stick in Usbek, NARS

Complexion, Dual-Intensity Blush in Adoration and Blush in Desire | Eyes, Eye paint in Tatar | Lips, Audacious Lipstick in Kate, Velvet Lip Liner in Belle Mare and Velvet Shadow Stick in Usbek, NARS

302

Complexion, Multiple in Copacabana, Sheer Glow Foundation in Deauville, Radiant Creamy Concealer in Vanilla and Soft Velvet Loose Powder in Snow | Eyes, Kohliner in Minorque, Eye Paint in Black Valley, Duo Eyeshadow in Jolie Poupée and Duo Eyeshadow in St Paul De Vence | Lips, Lipstick in Honolulu Honey | Nails, Nail Polish in Shameless Red Top Coat, NARS Dress, CÉLINE

Makeup artist: Jane Richardson NARS International Lead Makeup Stylist Hair stylist: Adam Garland Styling assistant: Sophie Pasztor

Complexion, Dual-Intensity Blush in Adoration and Blush in Desire | Eyes, Eye paint in Tatar | Lips, Audacious Lipstick in Angela and Velvet Matte Lip Pencil in Dragon Girl, NARS

304

We celebrate the raw beauty and cultural vibrancy of Europeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best-kept secret. MOJEH reveals why Eastern Europe is 2017â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s must-visit destination.

Words by Laura Beaney

Images courtesy of Dukley Hotels and Resorts, and Getty, photographed by DeAgostini and John Greim

M O J EH C u ltu r e

The stretch of coastline along the Black Sea Peninsula offers miles of crystal clear waters and less-travelled beaches, dotted with reeds and dunes

Today’s traveller is looking beyond Portofino and St. Tropez to relax and play.

2017 will see high-end hotels, luxury cruise ship routes and flight paths make their way to Eastern Europe

If the South of France is the jewel in Europe’s

“The Middle Eastern traveller has generally

over grand plans. Striking a chord between

crown, then the Eastern countries surrounding

always travelled to popular destinations, such

rich historical heritage, idyllic, untouched

the Black Sea are its reclaimed treasures. Touted

as Geneva, London and Paris,” says Hatem

beaches, and offering the thrill of unchartered

to intensify during 2017, travel to destinations

Chatter, Middle East senior director at The

terrain, destinations within Eastern Europe are

like Montenegro, Romania, and Georgia will be

Leading Hotels of the World. “These have always

increasingly coming up in conversation.

high on summer agendas – and, here’s why.

been seen as the most luxurious destinations,

Fondly referred to as the ‘Pearl of the Adriatic’,

Shopping on the Champs-Élysées or breaking

due to royalty choosing them as their residence

Croatia was the gateway, with Dubrovnik known

bread within earshot of the Trevi Fountain

for the summer months.” Chatter has noticed

to attract the likes of Elizabeth Taylor and Richard

have always been a sought-after summertime

what he describes as a ‘huge shift’ in what his

Burton during the Sixties and Seventies; more

pursuit for the well-heeled, but in the course

customers are looking for. Rather than revisiting

recently, Beyoncé and Richard Branson have

of the last year, luxury travel habits began to

the same destination, they are looking to

spent time at the UNESCO World Heritage site.

change. Terrorist attacks on previous hubs, like

discover something new. But where to, next?

Today, the spotless streets of the medieval

Paris and the Côte d’Azur, have taken their toll,

Attitudes towards travel have also changed.

coastal town offer fare from Michelin-trained

with Europe becoming the only region, globally,

One major move is that tastes for beach

chefs, while fortress towers and pale stone

to receive fewer bookings in 2016 over 2015,

lazing days at far-flung Asian, Caribbean or

palaces act as a backdrop to the heaving harbour

according to data compiled by ForwardKeys.

French Polynesian shores have been swapped

that hosts yachts belonging to the likes of David

That, paired with an uncertain economy, is part of

for local, immersive travel. The concept of

Geffen and Roman Abramovich. Croatia put the

the reason that today’s traveller is looking beyond

‘luxury’ has been remoulded to encompass

Balkans on our radar, but its pristine waterfalls

Portofino and St. Tropez to relax and play.

experiences over acquisition, and adventure

can also be found in less crowded Slovenia; while

306 Thanks to its pristine coastline, mountainous terrain and rich cultural history, Montenegro has become a beaming light in the Balkans

its storied stonewalls appear in Romania, Dracula’s Bran Castle and the opulent décor of dictator Nicolae Ceausescu’s Bucharest mansion enchant all who pass by. Romania’s beaches have also become increasingly popular with affluent guests seeking a good time. In 2012, Puro Beach Club opened its doors to the Black Sea resort of Mamaia and, since then, the party hasn’t stopped. Georgia’s green, sweeping valleys and mountainous ranges call to the outside adventurer, while its capital, Tbilisi, takes us on a journey of architectural education. Striking contemporary structures like the Rike Park Concert Hall and Exhibition Centre sit alongside stark reminders of Georgia’s Soviet ancestry – there’s a style for every sensibility. Serbia is known for vibrant, floating nightlife that dominates the river Danube during the

Where: Dukley Hotels and Resorts, Zavala, Montenegro Best For: Marina moments and a modern take on Mediterranean glamour Located on the Budva Riviera waterfront, just two minutes away from

summer months, with restaurants on boats luring in the

Montenegro’s premier nautical facility, Dukley’s idyllic positioning offers

young and attractive. A city for the stylish, Belgrade’s

panoramic views of the Adriatic Sea. Restaurants dole out fine organic

trendy neighbourhoods are home to art galleries and

fare, while spacious penthouses provide sunset views from jacuzzis

markets that offer fresh, local produce. During the

and private terraces.

Eighties, before the Bosnian war, Kopaonik was a ski capital for Europeans, and in recent years, it has started to make a comeback. “Eastern Europe has a lot to offer the Middle Eastern traveller,” insists Chatter. “They spend their time taking in the spectacular scenery, partaking in cultural experiences and enjoying the culinary delights that the region has to offer… we can also see this being supported by the airlines, with many increasing flights and opening new flight paths to Eastern Europe.” Etihad is one such example, having partnered with Montenegro Airlines to offer a code share and increased connectivity between Abu Dhabi, Montenegro and Serbia, towards the end of 2016. “Travellers in Montenegro can now reach our Abu Dhabi hub with a convenient one-stop connection in Belgrade, from where they can access key destinations in our global

Where: Square Nine Hotel, Belgrade, Serbia Best for: A recent take on rich history There are plenty of big brand hotel names in Belgrade, but Square Nine was born from the owner’s desire to be part of the city’s renovation, embodying its

network,” says Gregory Kaldahl, Etihad Airways’ senior

luxurious but familiar character. The contemporary construction is centrally

vice-president of network. “In turn, Etihad Airways will

located in the heart of Belgrade’s old town, overlooking Students Square.

expand its travel offer to Montenegro, an increasingly

The plush interiors include antique pieces and mid-century furnishings,

popular business and tourism destination.”

which were carefully sourced at auctions over a span of two years.

And, when it comes to the beaches, Montenegro’s are some of the best. Spellbinding views and extensive stretches of sand are set against cascades of cliffs; whether you’re craving a buzzy atmosphere or splendid isolation, your tastes will be accounted for. Previously the domain of visitors from the neighbouring Balkans, Montenegro is a much-loved secret that has recently experienced a surge of investment, with highend resorts and facilities opening at an exponential rate. Of the most notable was the Porto Montenegro marina, which became a backyard for yacht owners in 2010. Since the marina’s arrival, the pace has picked up; luxury cruise liners like Royal Caribbean dock in the city of Kotor and The Chedi is set to launch a hospitality development in Montenegro’s Lustica Bay

Where: The Biltmore Hotel, Tbilisi, Georgia

in 2018. A destination at its turning point, Eastern

Best For: A city escape to new territory

Europe has a culturally diverse and naturally stunning portfolio of countries that are rare, in that they remain relatively unexploited and undiscovered – until now.

The Biltmore opened in 2016, after receiving heavy investment from the UAE. Offering a bold juxtaposition of old and new, the luxury space occupies a landmark historical building with the addition of a glass skyscraper, and is walking distance from Tbilisi Opera and Ballet Theatre and Freedom Square.

308

A rt is t in E x h i bit ion

Black and Yellow, Nariman Farrokhi, 2016, 132 x 175cm, Courtesy of artist and Dastanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Basement

R emem b er Persian art is renowned for being among the most contemporary and modern worldwide, but MOJEH discovers the importance of remembering Iranâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ancient heritage.

Words by Annie Darling

Mojtaba Amini, Khalgh Aviz, 2014, 150 x 150 x 90cm, Burnt wood, iron, rope, lead, Courtesy of artist and Mohsen Gallery When The Mountains Shall Be Set In Motion, Mehdi Abdolkarimi, 2016, 180 x 600 x 300cm, Interactive photo and sound installation, Courtesy of the artist and Mohsen Gallery

Tehran-based galleries, with the intention of shedding light on the burgeoning art scene that’s mushrooming in Iran. This year will mark Art Dubai’s first edition under its new director, Just as Iran’s art scene began to take off, it was swiftly silenced

Myrna Ayad. “It’s fantastic to be working with the team to drive

by revolution. Only now, after years of war and regulation, is it

forward what has always been the cultural powerhouse of the

flourishing once again. Enthusiasm for Persian artwork quickly

region,” she says. “Art Dubai continues to spearhead the cultural

picked up after Christie’s held its first Dubai auction of Middle

development of the local and regional landscape, and in addition

Eastern art in 2006, but the increase in interest only lasted a few

to the four days of the fair, Art Dubai is consistently present

years because of the 2008 global financial crisis. Mere months

internationally, supporting and partnering with institutions,

before the economic downturn, Christie’s Dubai auction sales

galleries and patrons.”

peaked at an impressive AED 106 million, around the same

Shirin Gallery is one of 90 showrooms from over 40 countries

time that Iranian sculptor Parviz Tanavoli set an unbroken world

that will participate in this year’s Art Dubai. Returning for a fourth

record for being the most paid for artwork by any Middle Eastern

time, the Tehran-based gallery will focus on modern Iranian

artist. His creation, titled The Wall (Oh Persepolis), went under

masterpieces by artists such as Hadi Hazavei and Houshang

the hammer for an eye-watering AED 10 million in New York.

Pezeshknia. After it was established in 2005, founder Shirin

In 2010, sanctions against the country made sales even

Partovi opened a second space in New York in 2013, which she’s

more difficult for Iranian artists, who were often unable to

dedicated to the promotion of emerging and established Persian

receive payments through international banks. Although these

artists. “I would consider Iranian art largely contemporary,” she

limitations were later lifted, President Donald Trump recently

tells MOJEH, “but no matter what, there is always an obvious

reapproved restrictions following ballistic missile testing in

influence of Iran’s roots and traditions, as well as our culture.

Tehran. Despite ongoing developments, prices for Persian

It’s somehow implied in an artist’s work, whether it’s the political

artwork are rising and Art Dubai, which returns this month for

situation, or the economy, or the culture.”

its 11th edition, is capitalising on this increase in popularity

A common denominator Iranian artists share is a fierce pride

with an indelible Iranian presence.

in their homeland’s rich heritage and history, as well as its

The annual art fair will host an unprecedented selection of

contemporary practices. Looking to the past as a means of

310 Untitled, Garnik Der Hacopian, 1989, 125 x 180cm, Mixed media on wood panel, Courtesy of the artist and Aria Art Gallery

Masoud Arabshahi, 1975, 188 x 133cm, Oil on canvas, Courtesy of artist and Shahrivar Gallery

312

Untitled, Sirak Melkonian, 2013, 76 x 76cm, Acrylic on canvas, Courtesy of the artist and AbAnbar Gallery

understanding the present is particularly evident at Dastan’s Basement, which was established by Hormoz Hematian in 2012. “We didn’t call the space a gallery, we called it a basement, because back then we were located in an actual basement,” he laughs. The gallery has since extended the boundaries of the original ‘basement’, and now operates in a larger space, which showcases pieces by up-and-coming artists, as well as by established Iranian masters. “I have a very strong connection to my culture,” reveals Hematian, “not unlike the majority of Iranians. Art is heavily influenced, in my opinion, by our local literature and architecture. “Emerging artists in Iran are more interested in contemporary and modern artwork,” he asserts. “Here in Tehran, we have three different types of audiences: There are the old-time collectors; the younger generation of collectors, who often support emerging artists; and then there’s the general public, a tranche that is becoming larger and larger.” Partovi’s New York space is committed to exhibiting works that push the boundaries of contemporary art, as well as international perceptions of the Middle East. “It’s different working in Iran [compared to the United States] because the local collectors support the region’s art scene. People are familiar with the type of art we’re exhibiting; it’s a bigger struggle in New York. That being said, we have a lot of interest in America, especially at art fairs. Strange enough, we have mostly sold to non-Iranians in the US.” Demand for Iranian creations reflects the global trend and rising interest in modern artwork, says Partovi. “Iranian galleries want to become more international. They are trying to expose themselves; a lot of galleries are trying to reach international standards, and when you look at the type of art that was emerging from Iran 10 years ago, it’s very much changed. Artists have become more conceptual.” Furthermore, Persian artwork is heavily influenced by the country’s past, she adds, in both a metaphorical and practical sense.

Untitled, Sirak Melkonian, 2012, 91 x 91cm, Acrylic on canvas, Courtesy of the artist and AbAnbar Gallery

Untitled, Hadi Hazavei, 1962, 120 x 200cm, Mixed media on canvas, Courtesy of artist and Shirin Gallery

“Only recently, in the last decade, has Persian art become

East, Africa and South Asia. It’s a creative hub brimming with the

international. It hadn’t been for a long time and suddenly we’re

best emerging talent and budding galleries from across the globe.

seeing an increased number of galleries opening up in Tehran. There

“Art Dubai has provided us with the opportunity to showcase Iranian

was a halt for around 20 years – not to say that Iran never had an

art in the Middle Eastern region and beyond,” gushes Hematian.

active art scene; it did, but it wasn’t exposed as much as it is today.”

“Art Dubai is a great opportunity for new galleries in the region

Hematian agrees: “There was exceptional growth in Iran, but then we

to showcase their works to the world.” This is made all the more

had the war, which prevented the building of infrastructure. It’s been

rewarding, he asserts, thanks to the Middle East’s unity when it

slowly building up. We have some way to go, but we’re definitely

comes to exceptional artwork.

on the right track.” Despite advancement, Hematian argues that it’s

“This region isn’t separated country by country. The region itself has

important to reconnect with the past. “Individuals in Iran will benefit

a lot to offer and I think, generally speaking, that the Middle East

from their heritage and the country’s past very much.”

is interested in artwork from across the entire region, not just one

While at Art Dubai, Dastan’s Basement will showcase artifacts and

area; and, Iranians are a big part of that.” Partovi and Hematian have

objects from Iranian artist Fereydoun Ave’s private collection, alongside

noticed a significant increase in the number of Iranian galleries on

works by artists Sadra Baniasadi, Habib Farajabadi and Nariman

display at Art Dubai, as well as the United Arab Emirates in general.

Farokhi, all of whom are represented by the gallery. Their brilliance

This is something that the latter is exceptionally proud of. “I think

and unique ability, argues Hematian, comes from Iran. “The culture of

one of the highest achievements of a country is manifested in its

the country of which they’re representatives is rich, with many, many

art. It shows a certain level of quality, as well as a certain level of

years of history. Our country is very diverse, despite it not being a

civilisation. I also think that in the times we live in, when things around

large one, and there are many different types of people living here.”

the world are changing so quickly and vastly, art can actually offer

It seems appropriate, then, that their wares be exhibited at Art

some sort of relief. It’s a very important time for art.” Iranian art, it

Dubai, which acts as a gateway to the international art world, and

seems, in particular.

is the preeminent space to discover works from across the Middle

Art Dubai will run from March 15 – 18, 2017, at Madinat Jumeirah, Dubai.

314

M OJEH W o man

Convergence of the Contemporaries Maliha Al-Tabari’s philosophy is simple – to create a greater awareness about Middle Eastern art and place it on an international stage. We take a rare glimpse inside the entrepreneur’s home as she shares her passion for the industry.

Photographed by Rhys Simpson-Hopkins

Interviewed by Sophie Pasztor

Maliha is photographed in her dining room in front of works by Zakaria Ramhani, wearing top and necklace by All Things Mochi and trousers by Stella McCartney

316 What first inspired your interest in art?

Is there any specific theme that you feel anchors many

I have been exposed to art since I was a child and I’ve never

Middle Eastern artists?

thought of leaving it for other passions. For me, art is a medium

Works from Middle Eastern artists are usually derived from

through which I can fully express myself. Art is something I can

history and conflict in the region. They contribute to the evolving

create with my imagination. Take away my passion, and it’s like

cultural landscape here.

taking away the one thing that makes me who I am as an individual. You opened Artspace Dubai in 2003. What was your key Do you find yourself drawn to a specific style?

mission back then?

I like all forms, as long as they trigger emotion, are symbolic or

My goal has been to create a greater awareness of the Middle

have a spiritual element to them. I’m especially compelled by

Eastern art seen internationally. When I started in 2003, there

pieces that are thought of conceptually or are process driven.

was no platform or place for the artists to grow and to be seen. I’m most proud to see Middle Eastern artists recognised by the

Tell us about the artists that draw you in you the most.

East and West, and having their works showcased at international

I would say Gustav Klimt – he triggers so much love and

biennales, museums and foundations.

passion towards women and the female body. His work appeals to everyone; it’s just beautiful and sensual. Frida Kahlo is also

What have been the biggest challenges?

powerful and strong; she’s all about the power you see in every

To diversify to a bigger audience and encourage the West to

woman. The list is long, I couldn’t tell you just one!

give time to the Middle East.

Maliha in her library, which she often retreats to, wearing a dress by Valentino

Maliha is photographed with sculptures by Ahmed Askalany, wearing a top and skirt by Jonathan Simkhai and shoes by Aquazzura

What are your hopes for the region in the future?

DNA; and three, investing in something/someone that will

It just celebrated its 45th anniversary and has accomplished a lot

retain a good long term value.

in many different sectors in just a few years. I can only imagine what the region will offer with time as it has a pioneering spirit

You studied in America; how has your time in the States

and energy like no other.

impacted your career? I spent my time in America as an art student exploring and

As managing director of Artspace, what would you say has

finding myself. After moving from Saudi Arabia, I had a lot of

been your biggest feat?

creativity and emotion that needed to be expressed. Once I

Setting up the gallery at 22 years old, being mum to two hyper

completed my education, I realised I can have a voice back

kids who are nine and five, and still wanting to grow my career

home to nurture artists, tell their stories and give them a

in different sectors.

platform on which to be heard.

If you could offer just three key points to any young collector,

What can we expect from you in the coming months?

what would they be?

This month, we have launched our new sector, creative

One, buying a piece that youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve fallen in love with; two,

content and a storytelling platform, called Arternative. Have

ensuring the artist has a certain and recognisable style and

you heard about Dinner with Dali yet? Watch this space...

318

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Left to right: Oil Free Facial Hydrating Serum, AESOP | Hydra-Repair Day Cream, GROWN ALCHEMIST at Harvey Nichols - Dubai | Q10 B5 SOS Sensitive Skin, BAKEL at Harvey Nichols - Dubai

Photographed by Borna Ahadi, styled by Sophie Pasztor

F i n al N ote