ISSUE 50

6 297000 384009

AED 40 / USD 11

SEPTEMBER 2017

POWER PLAY

N°50

CALIBER RM 07-01

Haute Joaillerie, place Vendôme since 1906

DUBAI: The Dubai Mall - Mall of the Emirates ABU DHABI: The Galleria Al Maryah Island 800-VAN-CLEEF (800-826-25333) ABU DHABI: Etihad Towers +971 2 681 1919 www.vancleefarpels.com

PerlĂŠe Collection

White gold, pink gold and diamonds.

Do es your s tyle match your lifes tyle ?

In qui re a bout the p e rsona l st yling p a c k a ge s a t Louis Fourt e e n.

lifestyle@louisfourteen.com

18 Chairman SHAHAB IZADPANAH

EDITORIAL

PUBLISHING

Editor in Chief MOJEH IZADPANAH

Senior Publishing Executive DESIREE LABANDA-GAVERIA

Associate Editor SHERI IZADPANAH

Junior Publishing Assistant KISADA HURIN

Managing Editor KELLY BALDWIN

Sales Director NADINE CHEHABEDDINE

Senior Fashion Writer MARY KEENAN

Paris Representative GHISLAIN DE CASTELBAJAC

Lifestyle Writers LAURA BEANEY ANNIE DARLING

Advertising Inquiries Tel: +971 4 553 90 49 Email: advertising@mojeh.com

Senior Editorial Assistants SOPHIE PASZTOR

Subscription Tel: +971 4 553 90 49 Email: subs@mojeh.com

Guest Fashion Stylists INA LEKIEWICZ STACEY CUNNINGHAM AMARSANA GENDUNOVA ANNA KLEIN

Online Division ALI ROMAN

LOUIS FOURTEEN FOR MOJEH

ART

Concierge Service Management DAISY MARCHANT

Production and Creative Direction MOJEH MAGAZINE

Published under HS Media Group FZ LLC Registered at Dubai Design District Building No. 8, Offices 212 P.O.Box 502333, Dubai, UAE.

Art Director AMIRREZA AMIRASLANI Graphic Designer BALAJI MAHENDRAN Contributing Photographers RUI FARIA RAPHAEL DELORME THANASSIS KRIKIS DANILO HESS SIMONE GOLFIERI CHANTELLE DOSSER

Cover photographed by Simone Golfieri, model wears Diane Von Furstenberg

WWW.MOJEH.COM Louis Fourteen for MOJEH Follow us on Twitter @MOJEH_Magazine MOJEH Swiss Representative Office: Rue de Rive 4, 1204 Geneva, Switzerland Average qualified circulation (January-June 2016): 12,275 copies.

For the UAE printed by Emirates Printing Press LLC. Distribution- UAE: Al Nisr Distribution LLC. Bahrain: Jashanmal & Sons BSC (C). Oman: United Media Services LLC. Lebanon: Messageries Du Moyen-Orient The publishers regret that they cannot accept liability for error or omissions contained in this publication, however caused. The opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessary those of the publishers. Readers are advised to seek specialist advice before acting on information contained in this publication which is provided for general use and may not be appropriate for the readers particular circumstances. The ownership of trademark is acknowledged, therefore reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. All credits are subjects to change. Copyright HS MEDIA GROUP FZ LLC 2011

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M O J EH C O NTENT S

FASHION & TRENDS 78. THIS TIME AROUND Tasked with revitalising the hallowed House of Oscar de la Renta, Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia explain how they artfully balanced new life and an inimitable legacy.

88. MODEST MOVEMENT As hemlines drop and mainstream designers increasingly churn out conservative dress, MOJEH asks whether modesty is becoming power dressing’s latest incarnation.

100. FUNDAMENTAL FIXTURES Slimmed down silk pants and sharply tailored blazers are becoming unwavering basics. We fix our gaze firmly on the season ahead and make sense of autumn/winter’s core components.

108. FASHION TRENDS Edge and attitude are the order of the a/w wardrobe. MOJEH draws together the ultimate edit of powerful suits, flamboyant furs and heady measure of the must-have accessories.

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PHOTOSHOOTS 164. ECLECTIC CHARM Fall’s wardrobe desires to break boundaries, sashaying succinctly between day and night, city and country. Marry unexpected elements and parade myriad textures and prints together.

176. STRENGTH OF THE SEASON Florals find themselves in a plethora of incarnations spanning from lightly stitched lace to weighty Baroque blooms. Recalibrate traditionally feminine flora with purposeful accessories.

190. POWER PLAY A season steeped in high shine stories.

Dress up outerwear with mirrored adornments and let PVC punctuate daywear, as glossing over becomes a finer detail.

248. THE WORLD AT NIGHT Pigmentation continues to set the president for our makeup modes, re-envisioned for fall in gleaming metallics that navigate their way between the eyes and lips.

OVERSEAS A N I N V I TAT I O N T O T R AV E L

OVERSEAS SMALL MODEL

Dubai ∙ Riyadh ∙ Doha ∙ Kuwait ∙ Beirut ∙ Manama ∙ Muscat - Tel : +971 4 341 2424

28

MOJEH FEATURES 72. URBAN GARDEN Free-sprit, silver screen siren and Chanel brand ambassador Kristen Stewart discusses the enduring spirit of Gabrielle Coco colliding with the new generation notions of the Fashion House.

82. FALL’S NEW FORM Welcoming a wash of new energy into wardrobe, work, and weekend Rue Kothari, Arwa Al Banawi and JouJou Dogmoch share their preoccupations for the season ahead.

262. OUT OF OFFICE As ideas about office structures rapidly reshape and long haul travel becomes a way of life MOJEH examines the rise of the digital nomad.

266. ANOTHER GENERATION Matching and surpassing their male counterparts we meet the new generation of Middle Eastern female entrepreneurs putting the world’s greatest fortunes to good use.

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HEALTH & BEAUTY 242. PUNK PERFUMERY Perfume has seen a seismic shift from its traditional florals and feminine notes. Here we applaud the perfume provocateurs harnessing obscure stimuli to front a new era in fragrance.

247. UNDER THE SCOPE As science strides ahead in stem cell research MOJEH examines the potential applications for the beauty sphere and the most powerful products to harness its benefits.

ART & CULTURE 272. DARING NATURE In a bold display of creative excellence and technical mastery, Swiss watchmaker Audemars Piguet enlist sculptor Sebastian Errazuriz for a compelling woodland display at Art Basel.

274. NAVIGATING CHAOS Drawing upon the duress of the Gulf War as a source of artistic enlightenment, Iraqi artist Hayv Kahraman depicts the role of women in conflict.

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E D I T O R ’S L ETTE R

Photographed by Danilo Hess

STRENGTH OF

THE SEASON Photographed by Rui Faria

For many, September signals the end of summer, shorter days and our entry back into office life.

For us, September motions a chance to hit reset, turn a corner and take on the final stretch of the year. In our seasonal edit, the fashion desk have made a conscious choice to abandon the whims and fancies of summer style – farewell to bohemian dresses, sugary tones are done away with and summer floras are eclipsed by something much headier. Instead, we’re entering autumn with an armory of tough silhouettes, stocked full with a sturdy collection of fuss-free, power inducing accessories and a silver lining in the form of strong metallic and jewel tones.

Our trends navigate through an array of statement suits, dominant furs and richer than rich hues from grape to Oxblood. Taking their sentiments a step further, we travelled between New York and London, Paris and Greece, wielding suitcases brimming with statement-making pieces, before unleashing them upon the real world. In Eclectic Charm Louis Vuitton’s highly cultured autumn/winter collection holds its own in the sensory explosive market streets of Athens, whereas Chanel’s latest high jewellery collection, Flying Cloud, finds its perfect match in undone, natural beauty – here classics meets contemporary in a visionary twist of sophistication. While we suggest you take on a bolder outlook for the season, we’re not saying to totally do-away with the softer, sentiments of style. Strength of the Season sees the flower, an emblem of femininity envelope models in bolder, darker prints the result is encapsulating

A B U D H A B I T H E G A L L E R I A A L M A R YA H I S L A N D D U B A I M A L L O F T H E E M I R AT E S D O H A V I L L A G G I O M A L L J E D D A H K H AY YAT C E N T E R R I YA D H C E N T R I A M A L L K U WA I T C I T Y T H E AV E N U E S P R E S T I G E M A N A M A B A H R A I N C I T Y C E N T R E S A K S F I F T H AV E N U E

34 Photographed by Thanassis Krikis

and proves that the right print can have 365 relevance.

Beauty knows no bounds at the moment and the key to unlocking its seasonal allure is in the compelling use of colour. Standout trends lean in to washes of blue, orange and an assortment of gilded brights (yes, all sported in unison).

Kristen Stewart strides forward with our line up of powerful women. We meet her at Aubazine, the childhood home of Gabrielle Chanel, one of the 20th century’s most profound female figures and here, Kristen brings to life memories of Mademoiselle Chanel through the house’s new fragrance, dedicated to its founder. Closer to home, Dilyara Anderzhanova, founder of ArtExperts+ inspires us to take our passion and mould it in to a career, but more importantly one that fuels the soul of many. Here we find out how she’s universalising a genre that is often viewed as elitist. And as handbag designer Natalie Trad nestles back into autumn in the Middle East, she shares with us memories of her summer road tripping through Spain with husband Bassem.

It’s been a turbulent year thus far so we say why not, draw upon the strength of this season as we welcome in the September issue.

Follow me on Twitter and Instagram @Mojeh_I and write to me at editor@mojeh.com

MOJEH IZADPANAH Editor in Chief

Photographed by Hana Predajnianska

RENDEZ-VOUS A film by Ellen Von Unwerth FW17 elisabettafranchi.com Dubai, Abu Dhabi, Riyadh, Jeddah, Beirut, Kuwait City

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E D I T O R ’S S N A P S H OT S

EMERALD CITY 3

1&2

4&5

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Fresh from the dominant reign of summer’s sorbet hues and dusty pigments, autumn’s colour palette has graduated to the sumptuous realm of jewel tones. Emerald and jade rise to prominence with their harmonising capabilities and an effortless appeal that perfectly caters to this season’s occasionwear.

1. TOM FORD | 2. BVLGARI | 3. GIVENCHY | 4. DIOR | 5. BURBERRY | 6. CEDRIC CHARLIER | 7. DAVID MORRIS | 8. PAOLO COSTAGLI | 9. DELPOZO

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A CCES S O RY N OT E

ADORNMENT Abstract, obscure and the inexplicably strange consume us this autumn with a heavy focus placed on unconventional shapes. Designs appear experimental with graphic metals showcasing high-minded artisanal creativity.

Clockwise from top right: Necklace, MARNI | ring, PAULA MENDOZA at BySymphony | bracelets, ALEXIS BITTAR at Harvey Nichols – Dubai | earrings, JOANNA LAURA CONSTANTINE at Harvey Nichols – Dubai

Photographed by Julia Chernih at The Factory ME, styled by Sophie Pasztor

A B S T R A C T

DUBAI - DOHA - KUWAIT CITY - RIYADH – JEDDAH - GIUSEPPEZANOTTI.COM

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B E A U TY N OTE

THE MANE ATTRACTION Sweet smelling tresses find their place this season in aromatic mists and perfumes.

The formulas are specially designed to be lightweight with a lower concentration of alcohol to protect hair fibres from the elements. Look to assist hydration with luxurious oils that nourish each follicle for added shine.

Photographed by Julia Chernih at The Factory ME, styled by Sophie Pasztor

Le Parfum Scented Hair Mist, ELIE SAAB | Huile Prodigieuse Multi-Purpose Dry Oil, NUXE | For Her Hair Mist, NARCISO RODRIGUEZ

Photographed by Julia Chernih at The Factory ME, styled by Sophie Pasztor

42 S T YL E NOTE

SLIVERS OF SILVER High-shine, foil fabrics gloss over shoes and bags in galactic shades this season. Couple a pair of Balenciaga’s shimmering boots under cut-off denim for elevated daywear, or opt for a higher concentration of silver for dazzling evening attire.

Left to right: Bag, SAINT LAURENT | shoes, LOEFFLER RANDALL at Level Shoes | bag, JIMMY CHOO | boots, BALENCIAGA

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Designers are pushing boundaries and opting for quirky round handle bags and circular carryalls, over the more traditional shapes and structures. Chloé looks to upsurge its popular Nile offering with their new luxe Pixie bag, while Marni’s Pannier bag opts for a fixed round metal and leather handle.

Top to bottom: MARNI | CHANEL | CHLOÉ

Photographed by Julia Chernih at The Factory ME, styled by Sophie Pasztor

A CCES S O RY N OT E

MOJEH.COM Our carefully curated digital platform delivers engaging, inspiring and timely content with exclusive access to the industry’s most influential players.

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T H E C O L L A B O R AT IONS

FIVE MINUTES WITH

NICHOLAS KIRKWOOD The London-based shoe designer fuses his contemporary aesthetic with Bulgari’s legendary Serpenti. Here, MOJEH finds out about the September launch and his month ahead.

Where will you be travelling to this month?

I’m heading to Seoul on the first, then I’ll be doing a launch event for the collaboration at the Bulgari Hotel during Milan Fashion Week, followed by my presentation in Paris.

I’m going to South Africa on holiday too - I’ll be doing a safari then heading down to Cape Town for a few days.

As a shoe designer, how did you find working on handbags?

There were some similarities when it came to the leathers and metalworks used, but it was really when I first visited the atelier to see how all the bags were put together that I realised how serene the whole process is. There’s so much love and time put into each piece.

What updates have you made to the Bulgari aesthetic?

Although we’re both very different brands, our respective work has an architectural kind of quality to it. I took the iconic Serpenti and made it lighter and more aerodynamic and I also straightened up the edges of the bag and designed the flap around a geometric jewellery piece I found in the archives.

Any focal points in particular?

The studs were made to look like the reverse side of a diamond, rather than a normal pointy stud and the chevron pattern is something I use quite often, but in black and white it almost looks like the scales on a snake, which I thought was very fitting for the project.

What are the key colours for September?

Bulgari are known for their use of coloured stones. I drew inspiration from pink spinels and blue sapphires, representing the House’s jewellery heritage by creating something

THE LONDON LOWDOWN

very graphic with that unexpected pop of colour.

Eat: At Kitty Fishers in Shepherd’s Market. It’s a tiny Which styles would you recommend for the month ahead?

restaurant with really delicious, heavy English food. Also

Personally, I love the black and white pieces – the rucksack and the crossbody in

Umu, which is a Japanese restaurant, is perfect for a

particular both have a bit of attitude.

special occasion or a treat.

I go to this place around the corner from my studio on

The collection has a London irreverence to it; a slightly punky feel, but in the way it’s

Broadwick Street in Soho called Said - they do the most

executed it definitely has the DNA of the Bulgari woman.

indulgent hot chocolates.

Relax: Go for a walk through Hyde Park, especially if

What’s on your wish list for September?

it’s a nice day.

Definitely some R&R! Some sort of massage or spa treatment after all the

Soak up some culture: Serpentine Galleries always have

travelling I’ll be doing.

fantastic exhibitions on.

Interview by Mary Keenan

Drink: I don’t drink coffee, but I love hot chocolate.

If you could attach it to the culture of a city, which would it be?

TOMORROW IS CAPITÁN Emotions run high with Gucci’s latest high profile collaboration with Spanish artist.

“I want to go back to believing a story” – a somewhat idealistic quote from Spanish artist, Coco Capitán, but nonetheless melded beautifully in to runway pieces by creative director Alessandro Michele. Perhaps fittingly so, considering Michele’s vision for the House has been one of romanticism and storytelling.

Within the mix of crystallized bodysuits and looming botanical prints, Michele peppered his collection with simplistic pieces, emblazoned with sketchy phrases, such as ‘tomorrow is now yesterday’. The effect is startling and one which perhaps is unexpected, yet it is clear when Capitán reflects on the partnership, her admiration for Michele’s aesthetic was key, “His non-nostalgic vision of the past with his ability to make it contemporary. The importance he gives to love. The uniqueness of everything he has done since he arrived.”

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FA SH I O N I N F O C U S

1

8

2

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NEO SPORT 3

Challenge the norm of conventional workwear and welcome eccentric new additions to your wardrobe. Pepper with vibrant accents, such as the Fabrizio ankle boots to make a luxe, yet bold style statement.

1. DELPOZO | 2. BVLGARI | 3. FABRIZIO | 4. HERMÈS | 5. L’AFSHAR | 6. GUCCI | 7. ROSETTA GETTY at BySymphony | 8. BAUME & MERCIER

5 6 Compiled by Sophie Pasztor

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LUXE REFINEMENT

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Channel the flamboyant magpie this season and select glittering pieces that will add an air of decadence to your look. Opt for standout accessories, such as Chanel’s

6

glitter boots and harmonise the overall aesthetic with quality fabrics in rich hues.

1. DIOR | 2. DELPOZO | 3. GUCCI | 4. FENDI | 5. BUTANI | 6. FABRIZIO | 7. CHAUMET | 8. ALEXANDER WANG at BySymphony

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3 4

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STATEMENT STRIDE

2 3

Command power with tailored separates and structured accessories. Keep silhouettes streamlined while maintaining opulence through the finer details.

1. ARWA AL BANAWI | 2. CHANEL | 3. YVEL | 4. DELPOZO | 5. FENDI | 6. GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI | 7. ELISABETTA FRANCHI | 8. SAINT LAURENT

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OPULENT ACCORDS Decadent shades of gold, bronze and copper punctuate our wardrobes this season, with a strong focus

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placed on sumptuous fabrics and gilded accessories.

1. 711 at BySymphony | 2. DELPOZO | 3. YVEL | 4. BOTTEGA VENETA | 5. PAULA MENDOZA at BySymphony | 6. ALBERTA FERRETTI | 7. GUCCI | 8. NOON BY NOOR at BySymphony

4 3

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M O J EH NEW S

STYLE NEWS Drawing together powerful metallic makeup updates, the unseen photographic aspirations by Audrey Tautou, and enriching new fashion films and fragrances, MOJEH sets the tone for the seasonal upheaval of style, beauty and culture.

The Book: English Myths and Legends by Alice Temperley Launching this month, the queen of polished yet powerful patterns, Alice Temperley, takes her boho/British glamour to the bookshelves with this new release. English Myths and Legends celebrates the designer coveted by everyone from Kate Hudson and the Kardashians, to the Duchess of Cambridge, examining both the practical and sentimental sides of the designer’s generative processes that have led her brand to reach such levels of success over the past 15 years.

Peter Philips, creative and image director for Dior Makeup, adds a shine injection to the season ahead, looking to opulent colours and rich textures, producing a clash of vibrant metallics and muted mattes for his latest collection. This new autumnal palette takes recent trends towards colour play a step forward with strong metallic tones applied in dynamic new ways.

The range includes everything from nail lacquers to creamy contouring kits and brow brushes, as well as hybrid products, such as the highly pigmented and versatile, Metalizer Eyes & Lips. Designed with a small nozzle tube to release metaleffect pigments in an ultra-creamy, quick-drying texture, it can be applied in its purest form to eyelids or lips, or daubed in touches and blended with lipstick for a more low-key effect.

Images courtesy of Alice Temperley, Dior Beauty, Gucci Cosmetics, and Les Rencontres d’Arles

The Palette: Dior Metallics

The Film: Manolo: The Boy Who Made Shoes For Lizards Premiering September 15 in New York City ahead of its wider release, this new documentary delves deep into the world of the fine footwear master. Uncovering the gilded world of Manolo Blahnik, this highly anticipated film features interviews with fashion’s key players- from Anna Wintour and André Leon Talley, to pop star Rihanna, David Bailey, John Galliano, and Paloma Picasso- each sharing their unique interactions with the designer.

The Scent: Gucci Bloom Blended by master perfumer Alberto Morillas, the creative envisioned the scent as a thriving garden full of diverse types of flowers and the rich aromas they emit, but this is no typical floral fragrance. Designed to empower, Gucci Bloom features notes of Rangoon creeper- a plant discovered in south India and used in perfume-making for the first time.

Looking to relay new notions of femininity, Gucci’s creative director, Alessandro Michele’s vintage-style powder pink bottle takes a sleek and slender form, crafted in porcelain rather than transparent glass. Overall, this new scent champions an attitude of freedom mixed with the colour of Michele’s design canon; the women he dresses are flourishing in a natural, expressive and individual way- they are in bloom.

The Exhibition: Audrey Tautou: Superfacial Until September 24 The actress best known for her seminal roles as Amélie and Coco Chanel in the Hollywood biopic, turns her hand to photography in her first ever exhibit. Audrey Tautou’s exposition at Les Rencontres d’Arles festival is the first public showing of her work; a form of escapism following her newly found fame post-Amélie.

Examining the notions of both the subject and artist, celebrity status and intimacy, the collection includes self portraits, as well as annotated images of journalists who have interviewed her over the years and those who have fashioned her public image.

Abbaye De Montmajour, Rencontres d’Arles, France

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With a job for life becoming increasingly rare, a career change may be the first step towards a more satisfying and fulfilling future.

Words by Annie Darling

The Beauty of Style, photographed by Julio Gamboa, MOJEH Issue 28

THE GEN Y JOB-HOP

T A L K ING P O I NT

The once insatiable enthusiasm for the

employer.” Be that as it may, while companies

raising children in their Thirties and Forties,

profession you committed to in your Twenties

are sympathetic to the plight of twenty-

with their careers temporarily taking a back

has dwindled. After years of experience fine-

somethings who’ve worked multiple jobs in

seat. Now, more and more women are

tuning skillsets and developing knowledge

the hope that they’ll break into their desired

putting off having children and are making

about your chosen area of expertise, dashing

field, will an experienced candidate’s history of

their career a priority.”

in-between work meetings and coffee runs,

short-term employment be held against them?

After all, personal responsibilities result

you find yourself wondering: is this really what I

Wheatman doesn’t think so. “Changing roles is

in expense: marriage is often followed by

want? Women in their Thirties and Forties often

essential to staying fresh,” she insists. “Years

buying a house, raising children, paying for

face a series of momentous life decisions –

ago, managers wouldn’t look at a résumé

a mortgage, as well as school fees, and

most of which impact our professional careers

that’s peppered with short-term stints. These

family vacations. A steady paycheque and

– and in an era where opportunities are plentiful,

days, spending more than three or four years

company benefits were formerly essential,

Future Workplace estimates that 91 per cent

in the same role will get you the side-eye.”

but nowadays women are more able to react

of Generation Y expect to stay in each job for

After all, the bulk of today’s workforce are both

to the rich and lucrative job market. Marriage

less than three years.

the pioneers and guinea pigs of the digital age;

and home ownership are at historically low

Generally speaking, transitional job-hopping

better connected than any generation that’s

rates among today’s adults, and new posts

involves at least one company change after 12-

gone before them. It’s no surprise that these

can offer luxurious relocation packages and

36 months, and while the younger generation

tech-savvy workers are functioning differently

more money. “A woman’s range of options

gets bad press because of this tendency, the

to their foregoers, and instant gratification,

in previous generations were fairly limited,”

stigma is quickly losing steam. “There has been

argues Yarwood, makes Generation Y more

reminds Wheatman, whereas now she pursues

a shift in attitudes towards one’s life and career

likely to chop and change. Online dating

opportunity. “She actively keeps an eye out,”

in the last 20 years,” insists Zeta Yarwood, a

websites immediately introduce us to new love

qualified NLP career and life coach. “It used to

interests, while search engines have replaced

be a case of simply finding a job that pays well,

perusing old libraries for research. “Technology

looks good on paper and offers job security for

has created a world and perception that we

life.” Nowadays women are more likely than their predecessors to job-hop, according to a LinkedIn study, and in an increasingly interconnected world, a career change can seem tempting.

Hallie Crawford runs her own boutique career coaching firm. “Job-hopping is becoming more common because it’s a way to change your

location, company culture, earn more money

must be happy all the time, and we can be

says Wheatman, “and networks aggressively.

or get a promotion. It’s more common because

in an instant. But this also means as soon as

She never lets her career go on cruise control.”

people are able to work remotely, and more

people become bored or unhappy in their jobs,

The notion that workers should force themselves

people want to find a job that they truly enjoy

they quit.” It seems that for job-hoppers to

to stick it out at a job that they’re unhappy in,

versus staying at one position that’s not a good

be successful, they must give an adequate

because future employers might spurn them for

fit.” It’s not uncommon for women to feel that

explanation for their professional manoeuvres

multiple short-term jobs or a considerable career

they’ve achieved most of what they want from

when asked, because ultimately changing

change, is antiquated. After all, why should we

their career after a decade or so of working

jobs regularly results in a higher salary and

let our career languish at a company in which

full-time. By the time they’ve logged on to start

an increase in control. “It [job-hopping] allows

we’re slow moving, albeit successful? The fear

their job search, some will quickly dismiss the

you to experience different fields, industries,

of the unknown binds unsuspecting employees

idea as wishful thinking, but for many, changing

companies and locations. This helps you identify

to dead-end positions, and subsequently many

careers is exciting and achievable.

what you enjoy and what you’re good at, and

are neglecting their quest for career happiness.

Debra Wheatman, founder and president of

can give you a more rounded skillset,” says

No matter one’s profession or title, work gives

Careers Done Write, is a certified résumé

Yarwood, before adding that an international

a person an identity and while there are no

writer. “It’s incumbent upon each of us to

increase in opportunities for women has also

guarantees, it’s important to find a career that’s

actively manage our own careers. Gone are

influenced women’s professional development.

meaningful and engaging. To do that, one must

the days of lifetime employment with one

“In previous generations, many women were

be willing to take the risk.

56

S T YL E NOTE

THE WORKWEAR EDIT September’s office offerings take a novel nod towards the suit.

Look to Chanel’s robot prints and soft city shorts or Saint Laurent’s new noir to enter in to this trend. Print on print pulls from a gathering of genre’s where as a call to red demands block-colour’s bold approach. Peruse our edit of the styles to covet for a powerful new desk-side direction.

Photographed by RAPHAEL DELORME Styled by KELLY BALDWIN

Top and trousers, MARY KATRANTZOU | belt, MARNI | shoes, HÈRMES

The Suit - Whether it’s an ocean hued head-to-toe swan print, black patent leather trousers or the new city short and machina print, this season’s suit summons strength, structure and attention to embellishment.

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Blazer, top and trousers, SAINT LAURENT

Coat and shorts, CHANEL | shoes, VERSACE

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Dress and tights, GIVENCHY

The Hue - Scarlet, crimson, Persian and even chili pepper make up the rainbow of reds, prevalent throughout autumnal collections. Perfect in packing a punch, keep it feminine with Givenchy’s structured dress or try a medley of textures finished with this season’s utilitarian boots.

Top and shirt, MAX MARA | boots, HERMES

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Coat, MARY KATRANTZOU | top, MAX MARA | trousers and bag, LOUIS VUITTON

The Clash – Regality meets Club Tropicana colliding with space age in an excess of prints and fabrics make surprising daytime go-tos. Keep your colour tones aligned to avoid visual overload.

Shirt, CHLOÉ | top and skirt, PETER PILOTTO | blazer, VERSACE

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Blazer, MAX MARA | skirt, VERSACE | bag, CHRISTIAN DIOR | watch, CHANEL J12

The Outerwear – Conventionally lady-like cuts take on a boyish charm with the right tailoring. Streamline imperial prints with a shot of black and add Chanel’s J12 watch to keep it robust.

Dress, waistcoat and belt, HÈRMES

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Top and jacket, DELPOZO | tights, SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

The Silhouette – Fashion goes full circle as we concentrate on rounded coats and headpieces for the month ahead. Look towards deeper shades, detailed stitching and balance out with tighter forms elsewhere.

Model: Daphne Lehoudi Hair and makeup: Jiyhe Sim Videography (watch on MOJEH.com): Farzad Bayat Styling assistant: Sophie Pasztor Production: MOJEH Magazine

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M O J EH WO M A N

A STATE OF ART We talk to Dilyara Anderzhanova, founder of ArtExperts+, who has turned her passion for education and love of art into a venture for all.

Interviewed by Sophie Pasztor

Dilyara is photographed

by Borna Ahadi in her home, wearing dress by Dolce&Gabbana and heels

by Saint Laurent

Dilyara wears top by Delpozo in front of a Timur Akhmedov painting

What draws you to art?

naturally, I looked for the same when I came to Dubai

Its beauty and the question it poses.

but found nothing like it. Finally, I thought to myself, if it doesn’t already exist, I need to just do it myself – and

Is there a specific genre that you find most thought-

so ArtExperts+ was created.

provoking?

Expressionism. To quote Wassily Kandinsky, “That is

As founder of ArtExperts+, what has been your

beautiful which is produced by the inner need, which

biggest feat to date?

springs from the soul. The more obvious is the separation

It was a 100 per cent start up, so we really weren’t

from nature, the more likely is the inner meaning to be

sure what to expect when we first created our business

pure and unhampered, The more abstract is form, the

plan. At the time of opening, both my partner and

more clear and direct is its appeal.”

I had full time jobs but decided we had nothing to lose. Since then, many things have changed but I’m

How has your appreciation for artwork evolved

very proud our initiative was so well supported. Our

over time?

students continue to return to us and bring their families

I can’t say exactly how it evolved, but the more you

and friends, and we are recognised by the local art

learn, the more you see. People you talk to allow you

community. I’m also very happy we do have an element

to become more open minded and less critical and

of social responsibility by organising free public lectures.

intolerant. It applies to everything in life, not only art.

Education is a fundamental right and should be available for everyone who seeks it.

ArtExperts+ is an initiative offering a wide range of theoretical and practical courses such as History

What are your hopes for the art industry regionally?

of Art, and Art and Design, what was your main

Education is essential to all fields. However, the art

motivation for starting it?

scene in the region is developing very fast. The more

Before leaving Moscow, Russia, I was attending different

educated people are, the more sophisticated and

programmes and workshops to learn about art. So,

influential the regional art community will become

70 Dilyara wears dress by Valentino and trainers by Saint Laurent in front of a Mohammad Tamimi painting

Works by Sara Al Haddad

from a global perspective. This will have a positive impact on the UAE’s cultural scene and will enhance global perceptions of the region. Young collectors are increasingly important and education will give these collectors the confidence to potentially purchase their first, second and hopefully 20th pieces.

What do you want to see more of from local artists?

Being frank, I just want to see more local initiatives directed in a way to support local artists. Dubai can be a difficult place for a younger, maybe less affluent artist.

I would like to see this stereotype broken by real actions.

What advice would you give new Middle Eastern collectors?

Despite my respect for art galleries, I really enjoy the process of meeting the artist myself, by visiting his or her studio and buying directly from them. Building up personal relationships with the artist is a very creative and deep process. Applying research, attending exhibitions and shows is also important. Of course, everything depends on the collector’s intentions. Buying contemporary art has now degenerated into the most superior form of shopping – everyone is chasing the latest brand, but I would highly recommend following your heart and buy what you really love.

What can we expect from you in the coming months?

Besides three new programmes (Jewellery, Architecture and Islamic Art) we are preparing for the October-December season. We have recently announced a new activity; cultural trips. Our first trip is to Shiraz in magical Iran.

Dilyara’s three emerging regional artists to know.

Mohammad Tamimi, Mohannad Orabi and Sara Al Haddad.

Works by Mohannad Orabi

Works by Mohammad Tamimi

26 – 28 OCTOBER 2017 DUBAI DESIGN DISTRICT

72

M O J EH W O M A N

Black patent leather coat, navy blue cashmere and silk sweater, and swimsuit bottoms in black stretch jersey, CHANEL

Urban Garden Star of the silver screen and brand ambassador, Kristen Stewart talks to MOJEH about Gabrielle Chanel’s orphan upbringing amidst the folded creases of Aubazine’s moorland.

Words by Annie Darling Photographed by Collier Schorr

74

Cashmere and viscose black dress, Coco Crush asymmetrical earrings in 18-karat white and yellow gold with diamonds, CHANEL | beanie in white knitted cotton, MAISON MICHEL

Buoyantly rolling across the south-western hills of Corrès, France, is the glorious emerald-green district of Aubazine. The region’s fanciful stone villages that freckle wild moorland landscape were established around the district’s majestic 12th Century Cistercian abbey, which would later become an imposingly beautiful orphanage, complete with soulful stained glass windows and an octagonal bell tower. It was here, amidst the carved wooden stalls and champlevé enamel shrines, that Gabrielle Chanel spent her secluded childhood.

To coincide with the release of the maison’s latest fragrance, Chanel’s youth has been vividly brought back to life by Hollywood actress and brand ambassador, Kristen Stewart, who soaked up Aubazine’s splendid scenery in an effort to profoundly connect with the late style icon. The luxury fashion house’s founder is renowned for her compelling and heart-rendering past; the daughter of a peasant, after Chanel’s mother died she was sent to live in Aubazine’s convent, which is where she was taught how to embroider, iron and sew.

“Being in any space that she inhabited is atmospheric,” reveals Stewart with longing and fondness. “The whole time I was there [in Aubazine], I was wondering where she sat most of the time, you know: that tree was there when she was here; she’s probably picked cherries off of that tree.” Under the keen lens of American artist and fashion photographer Collier Schorr, Stewart steps back in time, retracing Chanel’s sensuous story, following her footsteps down the same cobbled stairs, surrounded by commanding cream-coloured stonewalls.

Adorned in numerous Chanel ensembles, which include a powerful black patent leather coat from

the autumn/winter17 collection and a cotton

an ease. Nothing tries too hard.” The origins of

could do that’, but then I know that I have

knit ivory dress from the cruise 2017 runway,

Chanel’s trademark style certainly seem to hark

a million different other things that I want to

Stewart’s salted caramel-burnt eyes explore the

back to Aubazine; the stiff collars and black-

do.” The peroxide beauty is currently living

picturesque abbey gardens, noticing prominent

and-white palette of a nun’s habit foreshadow

in Canada, filming a Justin Kelly production,

motifs present in Chanel’s fine jewellery, including

Chanel’s strict aesthetic and inspiration behind

entitled JT Leroy, that will recount the true

the celestial designs that dapple the convent’s

the fashion house’s most longstanding and

story of the literary persona. “It’s lucky that

pavement, which inspired the designer’s Bijoux

iconic creation, the LBD (little black dress).

I’m an actress because I get to live and really

de Diamants of her 1932 collection.

When asked whether she could ever relocate

commit to a lot of very different experiences.”

The actress, who recently finished shooting the

to such a resplendent, albeit isolated, part of

Besides, Stewart admits, although she admires

action movie Underwater, directed by William

the world, Kristen shakes her head. “I have a

Chanel, they’re “probably very, very different.”

Euband, visited Chanel’s ornate cognac-hued

lot of different aspects of myself,” she reveals.

After all, there’s only ever been – in fact, they’ll

apartment in Paris, and spotted numerous stars,

“I feel like a part of me wants to say, ‘yes, I

only ever be – one Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel.

identical to those in Aubazine, which dominated furniture from the lacquered black surfaces to decorative fans. “I do remember all of that stuff.”

She smiles at the memory. “She gathered her influences from forever and it’s apparent that all of her material – everything she has in her apartment – it’s not decorative. Everything has a little meaning, every single thing.”

Chanel has launched some of the world’s most iconic fragrances to date, including No.5 and Coco Mademoiselle, but it has been 15 years since the maison last unveiled a completely new scent. Stewart has been announced as the face of this year’s campaign for the brand’s latest perfume, aptly named Gabrielle Chanel, having been a brand ambassador ever since her encounter with Karl Lagerfeld during the 2013-2014 Paris-Dallas Métiers d’Art collection.

Composed by Olivier Polge, who has crafted fragrances for Burberry and Christian Dior, Gabrielle Chanel encompasses the rebellious spirit of its founder’s early years.

Fellow brand faces such as Cara Delevingne, Caroline de Maigret and Pharrell Williams are all part of Chanel’s efforts to re-engage a more youthful clientele. Stewart’s lithe figure and pixie facial features bring a distinctive off-duty style to the House, which she merges with nonchalant attitude and offbeat energy. Her rebellious nature is often commented on in the press, and it seems she sympathises with Chanel, who Stewart describes as misunderstood. “People regard her as a rebel but that is clearly an outsider’s perspective,” she says, with a slight twinkle. “I don’t think she was fighting anyone. I think that to be deemed rebellious is something that implies that there was a lot of aggression behind it.”

Instead, Stewart argues that the couturier was merely confident and self-assured. “There was an ease in her being herself; it was not different for her to be herself. Even in her style, in her clothing, in the things that she made, there is

Cotton knit Ecru dress, Coco Crush asymmetrical earrings in 18-karat white and yellow gold with diamonds, CHANEL

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M O J EH W O M A N

TIME LAPSE Offering up vintage and contemporary juxtapositions for modern-day tastemakers, regional label, Mrs. Keepa, seamlessly blends functional pieces with a touch of nostalgia in each of her collections. Here, its founder, Mariam Yehia, tells us the importance of looking back in order to inform the future.

Mariam is photographed by Borna Ahadi in her home wearing top by Mrs Keepa, skirt stylist’s own and shoes by Malone Souliers

I remember my first notable fashion memory came from my mum.

She was picking me up from school in a flashy blue tailored suit that she had designed herself. It was in that moment, my love for fashion began and I started to appreciate the details in fashion design. I then began my journey by pursuing a career in advertising and marketing, but I didn’t get the fulfilment I longed for. A trip to Florence helped to change that. While exploring the city I noticed a large fabric store with a beautiful vitrine display filled with different coloured fabrics. It was as if they were calling out to me, and after a few encouraging words from my husband, Mrs. Keepa was formed.

As a designer, the past plays an integral role in my designs. Each season I’m inspired by details from different decades such as fashion, art, paintings, architecture and furniture, and I try to represent them in a modern way. The Fifties in particular is a decade I constantly take inspiration from. The Fifties marked the beginning of a new era where people rebelled for freedom of expression, which in turn had a knock-on effect on style. Fifties fashion saw the introduction of so many new styles; people were beginning to feel free and confident when it came to their fashion choices; they didn’t have to conform to a certain look or ideal anymore. This is something that really resonates with me.

My very first Mrs. Keepa collection drew from the exaggerated silhouettes of Seventies fashion. This era was known for building on the best elements of the Sixties and taking them to new extremes, which was my main reference point for the designs. I actually revisited the Seventies again in my autumn/winter16 collection, where oversized sleeves, wide flared trousers and clashing prints formed the core of my collection. The daring colours and prints also capture the fun energy of the era.

This season I was inspired by Victoriana – women were so sophisticated back then. I took details such as high necklines and soft ruffles and applied them to modern cuts and fabrics. I always say a good designer is one who can use ideas from the past and reinterpret them in a way that the women of today can relate to. I am very conscious of this when I start designing a new collection. We live in such a fast-paced world and as women, especially working mothers, we have to take on so many different roles in our daily life.

Therefore, our wardrobes need to be very versatile, convenient and easy, as well as comfortable and fashionable.

I find inspiration in absolutely anything- one of my biggest style icons is Rihanna. She is so daring, edgy and confident in her wardrobe choices. I admire her nonconformist attitude and her ability to don a wide variety of styles. She is the perfect example what it means to be the Mrs. Keepa woman. Gucci’s creative director, Alessandro Michele is another one of these inspiring individuals, known to break fashion boundaries, mixing prints and fabrics in ways others wouldn’t. I can also relate to his love of vintage fashion.

Today, fashion has become so commercial, it’s unfortunately a sad outcome of the economic depression we’ve been experiencing for a while. Brands have lost their identities and new designers have a tendency to break away from the House’s DNA by designing for what sells more. But I’m very spontaneous and limitless with my design approach. I can be inspired by a wrinkled used tissue on its way to the garbage, and immediately buy dozens of tissue boxes and start playing with them on the mannequin to create a skirt or dress. I always say that we are all products of our past experiences, hence our mind and creativity are shaped in different ways that would only relate to one’s personal past.

Top to bottom: Mariam wears top stylist’s own, jeans by Zara, wrap by Mrs Keepa and shoes by Charlotte Olympia | Mariam wears suit by Mrs Keepa and shoes by Dolce&Gabbana

78

D E SI G N ER I NTERVIE W

Opulent jewel-toned gowns and cocktail dresses in structured, gleaming fabrics felt clean and contemporary

THIS TIME AROUND MOJEH speaks to Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia, the creative duo tasked with revitalising the House of Oscar de la Renta while remaining true to its legacy.

Interview by Mary Keenan

Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia’s story is the stuff of modern-day fashion fairy tales. Both worked under Mr de la Renta, with Kim serving as studio director for 12 years and Garcia as senior designer for six. Following Oscar’s death in 2014, the pair left to launch Monse – their own label centred on relaxed glamour and deconstructed tailoring that has quickly earned itself a cult celebrity following. Following Peter Copping’s departure last year, the pair were appointed co-creative directors of the New York based House and have swiftly set about bringing a fresh perspective while continuing to preserve de la Renta’s original design DNA – feminine, fancy and functional. The two also remain at the helm of Monse dividing their time between both brands.

Kim and Garcia explored the concept of evening separates with colourful and well-cut pieces that provided a refreshing alternative to dresses

Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia

Taking up the creative directorship at Oscar de la Renta has been a homecoming of sorts, how did it feel to rejoin the brand?

F: It feels like coming back home to the place where we learned everything and we now have the opportunity to give back to the brand that did so much for us when we started in this city.

L: To be honest, I feel like I never left.

As joint creative directors how do you bring your respective ideas together cohesively?

L: We keep an open mind about our own points of view - it works because we respect each other’s work.

F: We have different perspectives about what a woman should wear, but each and every time we combine the ideas and the result is always an improvement from our original individual ideas. It’s become an addictive collaborative process that can start from a clipping, a piece of art, an Instagram post or even a movie - we bring it to the table and dissect why we love it.

How are you introducing your own aesthetics to the house while preserving its DNA? L: Because we worked here before Oscar’s passing away, I was afraid the designs might not look different enough. I loved what we did with Oscar, but in three years a lot has changed in fashion, so for us it’s about marrying what’s relevant to today’s woman with Oscar’s DNA and our own spin.

F: Having learned it all from Oscar, we intrinsically have him in our DNA. Designing for the brand has to be very instinctual - he would always follow his gut. If the idea doesn’t blow our socks off right from the start, we don’t work on it and move on.

80

Sequinned sash belts brought an unexpected glimmer to tailored suits

What was your inspiration for autumn/winter17?

L: Keeping Oscar’s love for simplicity alive in the most modern way we could think of.

F: The collection was about achieving the sharp and impactful simplicity of colour. Oscar would always say he loved making simple dresses in beautiful colours, and this was very much our starting point.

Tell us about some of your key pieces?

L: I love all the suits and jumpsuits.

F: Evening separates are a category that I believe the brand can tap into much more, it’s about pairing a fancy top with pants, something very much for the woman of today. The carmine sash top worn with pants was the first nod to this idea.

What does an average working day look like?

L: I’m constantly in touch with both the Oscar de la Renta and Monse teams over text message and I’m always at either office.

F: I start my morning in the gym, around 06:30am, then head to one of the two offices, depending on who needs us more.

It’s nice to let some ideas rest overnight by not working two days in a row in the same office as it prevents us from a very common problem designers have: overworking an idea. The work day is usually over by 6:30-7:00pm, then I’m most likely at some work event or will walk back home (a must for me) to the West Village – it’s the best way to decompress.

What do you like most about working together and what do you think each of your strengths are?

L: I’m never alone which I love and we have fun together, even if we’re doing something that would be considered boring.

Fernando always gives me a point of view that’s very different to mine so I like hearing what he has to say. He is very good at dreaming up an image or a sound, it’s like he’s always making a little movie in his head.

F: I think the constant conversation pushes us to improve on

Elements of Mr. de la Renta’s designer DNA were infused into the collection through some of his signature cuts and embellishment techniques

The collection provided plenty of variety through colour, cut and fabric, comprehensively covering both day and eveningwear

any ideas we may have. When I joined Oscar in 2009, Laura

make it accessible and relatable to those who have different

had already established the house’s daywear DNA, it was the

backgrounds like us. The classic sportswear element to

eveningwear that needed some help. So from there I worked

American style is a never ending source of inspiration for us.

on evening ideas influenced by her day and she’d work on day ideas influenced by my evening – this dialogue became

What three words would you use to encapsulate Oscar

the only way cohesion was kept in each collection.

de la Renta’s signature style?

L: Bold, feminine and elegant.

Who is today’s Oscar de la Renta woman?

F: Bold, feminine and timeless.

F: Our woman is no longer that lady who lunches, so it’s our job to update this idea to our existing clientele in a modern,

What has been the most valuable lesson on your journey

sophisticated way. Today’s woman is busy and the clothes

as designers so far?

need to be comfortable.

L: It’s important to have good people around you. We are not doing this alone; it takes an army to put a collection together.

What do you do to keep relaxed and focused?

F: Oscar always taught us to have fun every day, but I’ve also

L: I make sure I get enough sleep and delegate the little things

learned the value in having a happy team - as a boss Oscar

that could drain me to others.

knew what he was talking about. The level of efficiency and

F: I run and listen to music - it allows my ideas to flow faster

creativity is heightened when everyone is happy.

and helps me use time more efficiently.

How do you separate your thought and design process What makes American design so distinct?

for each of your brands?

L: I think it’s a lot harder to define American design today – we

L: We know our client very well for both brands. There is some

are no longer in the days of Donna, Calvin, and Ralph where

overlap - but they come to Monse for certain things and to Oscar

there was a classic ‘American’ look.

for other things. Luckily, we have a defined DNA for both brands.

F: We aren’t from America and as outsiders we are constantly

F: They are targeting very different clienteles. Thankfully this

fascinated by the culture here. We always try to find ways to

will never become a problem for us.

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FALL’S NEW FORM For many, September heralds the end of summer and the beginning of a new season . As we enter into this postholiday period, a flood of new energy fills our plans for work, weekend and wardrobe. MOJEH speaks to three women to discover what the season ahead holds for them.

Words compiled by Laura Beaney. Photographed by Julia at The Factory ME

M O J EH FA S H I O N

Rue Kothari photographed

by Julia at The Factory ME wears Fendi dress

RUE KOTHARI, FAIR DIRECTOR, DOWNTOWN DESIGN After a long, hot summer in Dubai, the new season couldn’t come fast enough.

The social wheel cranks back to life and brings with it a whole crop of new places to be, styles to explore and people to reconnect with. Of course, it’s also the lead up to Downtown Design, our curated design fair that presents the best commercial design from around the world for a regional audience. It’s the culmination of a year’s worth of hard work, and with this year being our biggest and most diverse show to date, there’s no shortage of pressure to make it the best.

It’s also back to school [time], which means juggling my daughter’s commitments with my own. Managing a full work schedule, with the precocious demands of today’s little people is a fine art – and definitely one I’m still trying to perfect. But, the precious weekends we spend together are all the reward I need as a mother.

Naturally, the cooler months mean more time languishing on the beach on a Friday morning, lolling in the park, strolling through the markets, and eating al fresco – yet another reason why I’ve lived in this city for 13 years. And after a tough week in the office, those hours of sunshine absolutely blow the cobwebs away.

With every season and year that passes, I always think that my life will slow down, but it’s quite the opposite. This season will be no different, with the usual carousel of events, buzzy places to eat and drink, fabulous dresses and endless air-kissing.

Investing in new season pieces is all part of the fun. Aside from my addiction to Net-a-Porter, which tends to yield a fair few wardrobe staples, from vintage tees and jeans to lingerie and swimwear, I’ll probably continue my long-time love affair with Fendi, by pulling out a few autumn/winter items that will last forever.

What really keeps me motivated are my travel pit stops throughout the year that culminate in mini-jaunts to London to keep my homesickness at bay, a few days in Hong Kong to visit friends, and a gorgeous two week family vacation in Sri Lanka to top it all off. The mission is to stave off ennui and ensure that life never gets dull.

SENTIMENTS OF THE SEASON Book to read: In November, one of my favourite authors, Martin Amis, will publish a book of essays covering a variety of subjects- from Donald Trump to Princess Diana. He’s [got] a wry wit – I can only hope to write this well and be this caustic when I get to his age Local café to frequent: I’m yet to try 3 fils [in] Jumeirah. I love these hidden gems, and autumn is the perfect time to explore them Essential wardrobe update: The new ‘F is for Fendi’ bag comes in a multitude of colours and configurations Scent to spritz: Byredo’s Gypsy Water Event in the diary: Dubai Design Week – it offers original content, interaction, education and innovation

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Arwa Al Banawi wears Arwa Al Banawi slogan t-shirt and Celine skirt

ARWA AL BANAWI, FASHION DESIGNER I [have] just returned from my summer holiday. I was in one of the most beautiful places on earth – the Amalfi Coast in Italy. I spent a few days in Ravello, a beautiful town upon a hill and then journeyed by boat to Positano, where the pasta was perfect and the sun was just warm enough to get a golden tan. The coast was brimming with life and colour; it was the perfect summer break to get inspired and meet some of the most talented artisans, from ceramic painters to dressmakers and chefs.

Since my return, I’ve been crazy [busy] at my studio in d3 as fashion week is just around the corner. Sometimes I’m up until the wee hours from two till six, working on my designs when the late night inspiration kicks in. On regular workdays, I start early checking my emails, orders and production but this never really stops at the weekend. I’m currently working on spring/summer18 and [I’m] very excited about all the activations we’ll be doing on a global scale. I’m also working on a capsule collection that focusses on sportswear in collaboration with a local music artist, which will launch in the autumn. [I believe in] uplifting women and carrying that message in to my collections; the capsule will symbolise [this through] strength and empowerment.

Considering how both travel and music will continue to shape my work for the season ahead, I realise I’ve always been an old soul; growing up I was one of those kids who listened to Miles Davis and Billie Holiday. Don’t get me wrong - I love pop music by Britney Spears and Madonna, but jazz has always been my favourite genre - I love having it on in the background while I sketch or cook. When I travel, I enjoy hitting jazz clubs and my best experience by far was during a recent visit to New York – it was a cool, underground, venue called Mezzrow. Smalls Jazz Club is good too, one of the waiters is an artist and his work is spread across the walls – I actually bought one of his pieces and it’s now displayed in my home office. I’m a traveller and foodie at heart – taking after my mother who’s an amazing artist and chef, and father who’s been collecting art for decades. They both have impeccable style and recently took me to [visit] one of the oldest, luxury bespoke suit makers, Caraceni in Milan. I think the family business has gone through three generations already and it was really inspiring to see the grandfather and his nephew in their studio. Experiences and people like these really inspire me to innovate my brand!

As a lover of all expressions of creativity, it thrills me to join forces with emerging musicians and innovative brands. Last season, I worked with one of the most delightful women in town, Layla Kardan. She’s a soul siren and talented songwriter who I collaborated with for her song, The Suitable Woman, which she performed at my autumn/winter17 Fashion Forward presentation. Recently, Layla and I have been hanging out and brainstorming again - she just understands me and my brand – we’re preparing another song and it has been simply awe-inspiring hearing it come together; it encapsulates the woman I wish to be. It’s out soon, so stay tuned!

SENTIMENTS OF THE SEASON Book to read: Shoe Dog by Phil Knight Local café to frequent: The Lighthouse in d3. I start with their penne arrabiata and then move on to the Blondie for dessert Back to work footwear: I’ll be switching between the Adidas EQT and Gucci’s Princetown slipper Event in the diary: Abu Dhabi Art, Sole DXB and Paris Fashion Week New season skin saviour: Obagi, Jumeirah. Their cleansing facial is the perfect way to reset the skin after a summer of travel and overexposure.

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Joujou Dogmoch wears Celine dress

JOUJOU DOGMOCH, FOUNDER OF SUNRISE K’ FOUNDATION September signals a new year beginning for me because school starts. It’s always an exciting new chapter in my life, full of surprises, experiences and, of course, learning curves. This year, I have my fourth nestling starting school and it’s a big change for me seeing all my children dealing with their own responsibilities now.

As mothers, we see huge development in our children during the summer holidays, and those little human beings start to become more like little adults! Summer 2017 had many highlights for us but something that we will take away and continue to revisit is the new skills we honed. This year saw my children and I achieve our PADI open water and adventure dive qualifications, and our upcoming vacations will most definitely be planned around destinations where we can call upon our new underwater talents.

Looking to my work and all encompassing passion, starting from September, new goals are set in place for my foundation, Sunrise K’. The foundation’s mission is to raise awareness about Glaucoma, especially in children. We fund the research department of UCL Moorfields to develop superior surgery techniques, medication and eventually, to find a cure for this debilitating condition. Glaucoma is an eye disease that affects over 70 Million people (1 in 200 adults and 1 in 10,000 children), and studies show that in a few years these figures will increase to 120 million people. In the past, Dubai has been a very helpful platform for our projects; we have organised three great galas in collaboration with His Highness Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum’s Dubai Cares Foundation, as well as the Dubai Film Festival. We’ve been blessed that well known actors and singers have come to support our gala out of goodwill, and have lent us their voices in support of our cause. On a regional level, brands such as Ralph Lauren have also contributed by hosting events for children at their store in support of our foundation.

As things tend to take a lull here during summer it’s important that we keep the momentum going for the season ahead. As we step into September the pace must increase. At the moment our media partners, Leo Burnett, are looking to launch an international media campaign to raise awareness via virtual media channels, communicating our key message and goal: to help to make everyone realise the importance of eye checkups and early detection regardless of age, race and/or gender. [I am] looking forward to this new chapter in my life, [and] I’m ready to take all the opportunities that the [new] season will offer me.

SENTIMENTS OF THE SEASON Book to read: Food, Love and Life – Dalia’s Kitchen Local café to frequent: Arabian Tea House, Bur Dubai Fine dining destination: My ideal evening meal is Bagatelle’s Escargots a l’ail and Salade Bagatelle- simply delicious Back to work footwear: Anything by Walter Steiger- I love their unconventional take on stilettos New season skin saviour: Argan oil for intense hydration and natural nourishment

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M O J EH FA S H IO N

MODEST MOVEMENT Modesty is enjoying something of a moment at present, but more than simply a matter of faith, for many women today, showing less appears to say more. MOJEH considers whether covering up is the contemporary approach to power dressing.

Words by Laura Beaney

90 The dress codes that typify an era are rarely

and an abundance of skin, but today’s

Jews, Mormons and some Christian sects

defined until it’s almost over. The powerful psy

runways inspire an altogether different

displaying their beliefs through their

patterns of the 1960s, lamé-loaded 1970s,

direction. The women who once plumped

wardrobes. Looking to Islam, the hijab and

sharp shouldered 1980s, and the grunge vs.

for Balmain’s shrinking hemlines and form-

the abaya that typify Muslim women for

clean-cut minimalism that signaled the start of

fitting silhouettes are instead looking to Dior’s

many, were actually only made compulsory

the 1990s, all reached their pinnacle as their

slouched trouser suits, Celine’s purposeful

in some non-secular states during the 1970s.

respective decades drew to an end, gaining

cuts that cleverly conceal, and the full

This was in reaction to, or more commonly

cultural acclaim when the sartorial tendencies of

sleeves, high necklines, and long flowing

believed to be a corrective mission against

the sidewalk found their way onto the catwalks

maxi skirts typical of Emilia Wickstead.

the West by the Ayatollah Khomeini who

and shop floors. So, as we consider the style

Modesty is a personal trait that, most would

opposed the shrinking hemlines and liberal

that might denote the 2010s, the words of Niles

agree, is a virtue; it’s a quality we admire in

lifestyle popular among women at the time.

Crane, from popular sitcom, Fraiser spring to

others and one that we often try to replicate.

But fashion and the changing of styles has

mind: “If less is more, just imagine how much

Having landed squarely in the spotlight,

been present within Islam for a long time,

more would be?”

when evaluating modest dress codes, our

with designs worn by Muslim women varying

The 2000s were laden with low-rise denim;

thoughts may jump to the realm of religion

depending upon locality, age and occasion.

hip hop-inspired displays of luxury, bodycon,

as a reference point with Muslims, Orthodox

The abaya, for example, has only become

Calvin Klein’s assertive female figures command attention

Mary Katrantzou’s collection sashays between opulence and a modern modesty with full sleeves and lowered hemlines in eveningwear

For autumn Haider Ackermann hides the flesh but flatters the form, making a powerful case for sharp tailoring and clever layering

Modesty on the streets.

Fashion consultant, Elina Halimi, attends A.F Vandevorst during Paris Haute Couture in July

women to be fashionable, yet still adhere to Islamic teachings on modesty has resulted in something of a stand-alone market for Islamic fashion- a market, which has a potential customer base of millions across the globe and has blurred the line of distinction between fashions in the East and the West. According to research compiled

by Reuters and DinarStandard, global Muslim expenditure on fashion is set to rise to AED1777 billion by 2019. A previously underrated segment, in recent years the Muslim pound has had an increasing sway over fashion trends, with designers such as Dolce & Gabbana, DKNY and Hermès courting the customer base with targeted Ramadan and hijab collections. Yet, this relationship is nothing new. Indeed, it was the Middle Eastern women of the 1970s who financially saved the failing couture

Pared-back knitwear, light layering and long sleeves make the perfect off-duty ensemble

industry, and to-date remain one of its popular since the turn of the 21st Century.

largest clientele. The crucial difference is

Prior to this, Muslim women favoured the

that now, this synergy is out in the open

Balto, however its weighty fabric failed to

and publically celebrated. “Fashion has

produce an elegant silhouette. Similarly,

long been a form or means of expressing

in Yemen during the 1970s, there was a

identity, character, persona, alter egos and

penchant for the Sharshaf Maxi, a long outer

so forth,” says Lubna Al Zakwani, creative

skirt, which mirrored the European trend for

director at luxury East-meets-West label,

Maxi skirts at the time. The purpose for these

Endemage. “It’s interesting to see the take on

changes was not mandatory nor for religious

modest dressing being added to the fashion

ideals, but instead for aesthetic awareness.

vocabulary, because as Middle Eastern

The need to actively participate in fashion is

fashion designers, we create pieces that fit

clearly present within most Muslim women.

regional tastes and societal commitments,

And this can be seen in the style of the

and to us, modest dressing is a perception.”

individual and also in the luxury market.

Al Zakwani describes her typical client as

Sociologist Annelies Moors wrote of the

a well-cultured and travelled woman who

emergence of an Islamic consumer culture

knows what she wants and seeks to make an

that began to develop in the 1980s. Over

impact with her appearance. “She’s confident

the next thirty years, women increasingly

and outspoken, and never afraid to voice

began to express their identities through

her opinion. She’s a woman that holds an

consumption. The desires of Muslim

appreciation for the finer things in life, and

Flared out midi skirts offer fresh, voluminous and flattering silhouettes, Both Rejina Pyo @themodist

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Length and layering reign supreme at London Fashion Week

she adores intricate details.” Highlighting that modest wear can indeed go hand in hand with increased confidence and superior style, in 2015 Mariah Idrissi became the first hijab-clad model to appear in a Western fashion campaign, championing a chequered Palestinian shemagh hijab for H&M while the most recent round of ready-to-wear shows saw Somali-American model Halima Aden become the first hijab-wearer to be signed to IMG models, making her catwalk debut at the Yeezy show, followed by major runways such as Max Mara and Alberta Ferretti. “To be covered and feel sexy takes a lot of confidence,” says Ruma Begum, a hijab-robed style blogger who has amassed an Instagram following of over 43,000. “It takes a strong woman to carry herself so Wide lapels and oversized split bell cuffs cover in a stylesavvy manner, exaggerated proportions are balanced with neat shoulders and a cinched-in waist

elegantly with every article she chooses to wear. It allows women to build themselves from within, allowing them to hone in on

This season’s strongest style statements come from suits reimagined. Rejina Pyo’s crushed velvet trousers have a wideleg and flattering, fitted high-waist, Suit Rejina Pyo @themodist

other aspects of themselves.” It’s an exciting

design-centric, Swedish way. It’s brands

era for young women like Begum who might

like these that have highlighted the modest

have previously had to assemble a modest

aesthetic to the wider world.” As Wharry

wardrobe via a process of customisation,

suggests, this aesthetic is now reaching

modifying unsuitable high street items, or

critical mass. Our fashions typically mirror

opting for excessive layering, but the confidence

the surrounding social, political and cultural

attributed to conservative clothing is making the

environment, with the current trend seeing

leap from faith to the mainstream.

us retreat from the overexposed share-all,

“Current styles are really echoing the rise of

transparent, reality TV-driven culture, and

menswear and unisex clothing,” says fashion

move instead towards a more introspective

forecaster and designer Geraldine Wharry.

and edited existence. During the 1980s,

“There’s different leaders in this modest

females reappropriated male styles to

movement, for example, Rick Owens led

assert their power in the workplace, but

part of this- he was a designer who inspired

with today’s preference for modest wear

street goth, but the way he layers and hides

instead, the power comes from championing

the body and takes inspiration from monastic

an aesthetic that’s not necessarily designed

clothing has really led the modest trend.

for male scrutiny, instead it uplifts the wearer

On the opposite end of the spectrum you

and her priorities, rather than pandering to

have high street brands like Cos that have

female role clichés. “There was definitely

become office wear staples, but in a really

a need for a place which didn’t already

exist for stylish women around the world

her with our beautiful curation of brands,

powerful tool that women can embrace to

to shop luxury and contemporary fashion

inspiring styling, and content which not only

communicate their femininity and reflect their

while still remaining within the boundaries

speaks to her but celebrates her.”

political and social values. “Empowerment

of their values and parameters of how

Our clothing can be considered a form of armor

for every woman is defined in her own unique

they feel comfortable dressing,” says Sally

and the physical manifestation of a society’s

way,” says Matthews, whose go-to staple

Matthews, creative director at The Modist,

sense of freedom. Just as the 1960s saw

outfit comprises a sharp blazer teamed with

a luxury e-commerce platform that targets

thigh-skimming hemlines underline female

a rock tee and jeans. “Some of the biggest

the modest fashion market, with a carefully

liberation, the full-length layers, flowing

fashion moments in history - Audrey Hepburn,

curated edit of appropriate pieces, such as

skirts and enveloping tailoring of the 2010’s

Jackie O, Queen Rania - have been modest,

Peter Pilotto’s feminine and floral Georgette,

offer strength in comfort and security. Unlike

resonating with women all over the globe and

ruffled, midi skirt, Eskandar’s sumptuous

‘underwear as outerwear’ this subversion

standing the test of time for their elegance

Shibori tie-dye kimono or Lanvin’s ankle

on sensuality is a paradigm shift showing

and style.” Power dressing today has less to

grazing embellished biker boots. “Often

how women wish to present their identity,

do with style and more to do with substance.

the modest dresser has not felt part of the

reclaiming autonomy over their bodies and

Appealing to assertive female forces, the need

fashion dialogue before and we not only

crucially, veering away from pacifying the

is perennial modest wear is taking more than

wanted to include her, but also empower

male gaze. Indeed, the lens of fashion is a

just a moment, it’s maturing into a way of life.

Dolce&Gabbana’s autumn/winter17 collection bridged the gap between faith and high fashion

Images courtesy of Getty photographed by Mireya Acierto, The Modist and Dolce&Gabbana

This season Celine maintained their signature sleek tailoring stamp, encircled with air-light embellishments that cover and command

Sculptural shapes like those seen at Stella McCartney spring/ summer17 shield the skin whilst signaling superior style

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S T YLE NOTE

Denim Dreams

Maria Grazia Chiuri’s autumn/winter17 collection utilised heavy-duty, washed out denim jackets and jumpsuits, which were softened with white contrasting stitching on hems and pockets and cinched in waists

Photographed by Sophie Carre, Words by Mary Keenan

From doubling up to reverse layering or simply draping a jacket nonchalantly over one’s shoulders, MOJEH explores the ways to wear denim this season.

Right: The deep inky shades of blue that formed the core of the collection’s colour palette were inspired by a navy fabric found in the House’s archives. Chiuri broke up the hue with golden contrast stitching | Below: Upturned selvedge hems held youthful appeal, adding an off-duty element to the denim pieces. While styled with black pumps here, they are just as easily matched to leather loafers or a pair of sneakers

Arguably the most widely worn fabric in the world, denim has epitomised off-duty cool since the Fifties when jeans were initially made popular by Hollywood icons such as James Dean and Marlon Brando before becoming a worldwide wardrobe staple in the Nineties thanks to the millennial influence of Kate Moss, Winona Rider and Carolyn Murphy. This season, designers showed a plethora of different denim styles and washes with the main focus falling into two distinct categories: the double up and dark denim.

No longer considered a serious fashion faux-pas, when worn the right way double denim looks incessantly cool. The three main

an oversized denim jacket or don Seventies-

denim outfits in dark washes, demonstrating

components to pulling it off are getting the fit

inspired flares with a slim fit denim shirt. If in

their versatility. Selvedge hems add a raw

right, mixing and matching contrasting tones

doubt, look to style chameleons Kendall Jenner,

quality to jeans that’s perfect for casual dressing

and above all, ensuring simplicity. When trying

Miranda Kerr and Olivia Palermo for inspiration.

with just the right amount of edge, as does

the trend for the first time, consider offsetting a

Accessories play a pivotal role. As seen at

contrast stitching. Embellishments in the form

chambray shirt against black or indigo denim or

Dior, bags or clutches with embellishments

of floral stitching and fur or shearling trims are

try a denim jacket over a silk shirt or bold jumper

and hardware detailing lend attitude to daywear,

also perfect for this trend.

and pair with jeans. It’s key to ensure different

while a classic pair of heels will take overalls

Our key picks for autumn/winter17 include a

denim pieces are visually broken up with

easily from day to night. For a more feminine

slightly oversized denim jacket that can be

alternative textures and hues. Similarly, when

touch, try stacking rings or layering necklaces

comfortably worn over chunkier knitwear and

embracing denim overalls or dungarees, reverse

to soften the overall look.

slung over t-shirts and dresses in warmer

layer a crisp cotton shirt or pussy bow blouse

When it comes to colour, inky indigo hues are

weather, a well-fitted pair of skinny jeans –

underneath to add refinement and femininity.

most definitely the look du jour. Take your style

get them tailored if needed - and for those

Proportion should be considered too- balance

cues from Calvin Klein, Isabel Marant, Stella

looking to push their style boundaries, try out a

out a pair of skinny or straight leg jeans with

McCartney and Dior who all showed numerous

utilitarian pair of overalls in a deep midnight blue.

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MODERN MATRIX

SE A S O N A L S TY LE

Futuristic styles take on a darker edge for autumn with patent leather fabrics and metal hardware the choice du jour. Shiny trench coats appear sleek while also retaining their structure, accessories retain their practicality, whereas sunglasses remain dark and ultramodern.

Compiled by Sophie Pasztor

AIGNER

1. JELENA BIN DRAI | 2. CÉLINE | 3. CEDRIC CHARLIER | 4. GLASSING | 5. DIOR | 6. THE ROW @mytheresa | 7. CHLOÉ | 8. CHANEL

WINTER GARDEN

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ACNE

Flora moves away from Bohemia and migrates towards a sharper more polished aesthetic. Form-fitting silhouettes and tailored separates provide a curated look that complements office styling. Feminine touches attained through delicate jewellery additions allows for a softer, more romantic feel.

1. TEMPERLEY LONDON | 2. CHAUMET | 3. YUUL YIE | 4. ELISABETTA FRANCHI | 5. COACH | 6. CHLOÉ | 7. GUCCI | 8. CHANEL

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FA SH IO N F EATU RE

FUNDAMENTAL

FIXTURES As we embark on a new season, MOJEH assesses the core components of this year’s autumn/winter wardrobe.

Words by Mary Keenan

Just over three decades ago, Donna Karan launched her own eponymous brand, Donna Karan New York. Her debut collection etitled Seven Easy Pieces, marked the first time anyone within the high fashion industry had addressed the concept of a capsule wardrobe. Consisting of a bodysuit, classic white shirt, cashmere sweater, tailored jacket, fitted skirt and a pair of tights and trousers, the collection revolutionised the way women thought about their wardrobes. Combining sophistication and simplicity, her approach to style highlighted the importance of timeless and versatile separates that could easily be mixed and matched together, and went on to become the foundation for her label.

The past 30 years have seen a paradigm shift in the way we dress from the austerity of Nineties grunge to the slick jet-set luxe propelled forward by Tom Ford in the early 2000s, to Alessandro Michele’s whimsical eclectic excess today, as well as innumerable other movements in-between. At the beginning of each fashion season we are inundated with the latest trends, the next It bags and the newest must have items, which can cause us to lose sight of what the core components of our wardrobes should be.

While clothing requirements are undoubtedly different for every woman, investing in a collective of staples that can be easily interchanged and worn with trend-based and pre-existing items form the foundation of effortless, easy and well put together styling.

32 years on, the concept of the Seven Easy Pieces is just as relevant, if not more crucial to today’s woman living a multi-faceted, busy life while juggling a family, career and social commitments. We’ve scoured the runways and compiled a tight edit of new season offerings that will take you through from day to night with ease. Classic, yet contemporary, versatile and refined, these items offer a nuanced take on power dressing, constituting today’s Seven Easy Pieces.

THE BLOUSE Further cementing fashion’s gravitation towards conservative style, full length blouses have been pioneered by the likes of Balenciaga, Marni, Alexander McQueen, Sies Marjan, Mulberry, Antonio Berardi and Monse. Look for versions made from fabrics with a slight sheen that feature unique details such as voluminous sleeves, asymmetric cuts, folds, gathers or ruffles and wear with skirts, jeans and trousers.

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THE TROUSER Pants take on narrower proportions appearing in no nonsense, slim line, straight leg cuts. Pairs constructed from crepe or silk lend themselves well to the region’s climate as well as business travel, while wool-blend varieties provide additional structure.

For those self-conscious about tighter fits, utilise oversized cashmere knits, longer length crisp shirts or rigid belted jackets in ponte-knit or scuba fabrics.

THE SKIRT The midi skirt’s moment continues with a medley of styles populated across the season’s collections. Key silhouettes include sharp pencil cuts, flowing asymmetric and pleated skirts.

Asymmetric options afford flexibility in terms of both movement and styling – pieces crafted from silks, georgettes and chiffons bode well with fitted long-sleeved tops and knitwear and provide a fantastic opportunity to show off a pair of statement boots.

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THE T-SHIRT An effortlessly cool essential, the humble T-shirt poses countless sartorial possibilities, from acting as a functional, fuss-free base for reverse layering, to a tongue-in-cheek talking point courtesy of witty slogans.

Elegant silk, satin or cotton-poplin options wear well with everything right through from suits to denim, while short sleeve knit varieties sit well over high-waisted trousers and skirts.

THE KNIT Approach knitwear with a bigger is better ethos. Slouchy jumpers and cardigans provide endless options for work and play. Oversized jumpers wear well with jeans, trousers and skirts – consider ones with side split seams to bring fluidity and movement to an ensemble. Ribbed or cable finishes add much needed texture to tonal outfits as do zip or button details.

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THE BLAZER A key fixture on the autumn/winter runways, a tailored blazer with an accurate fit offers versatility and sophistication in spades.

Structure is essential, so pick versions with a defined shape to emulate power and poise. Pair with trousers of any cut, drape over a dress for instant chic or take inspiration straight from the runway and wear with a pleated midi skirt.

THE DRESS In line with the fashion industry’s incline towards modest dressing, full-length gowns and dresses celebrate demure style in colours and prints that are far from dull. Embodying a distinct Victoriana vibe complete with full sleeves, pussy bows and frothy collars, seek out versions with gathered bodices and ruche detailing to emphasise the waist. Wear with heeled ankle boots for evening or embellished sandals and slippers by day.

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FA SH I O N TR ENDS

Compiled by Mary Keenan

FA SH ION

Image courtesy of GUCCI

Autumn/winter17 presents an array of unapologetically powerful trends from statement suits and sharply structured minis to unexpected fringing.

Prepare to do away with the whimsical nature of previous months and step in to a season ripe with edge and attitude.

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1. EMILIO PUCCI | 2. FRANCESCO SCOGNAMIGLIO | 3. MIU MIU | 4. MARNI | 5. NINA RICCI | 6. TORY BURCH | 7. TADASHI SHOJI

FLAMBOYANT FURS Pelts in sweet sorbet shades will brighten even the gloomiest of days.

Let texture be your guide – go soft and glossy for polished ensembles and shaggy and tousled for off-duty cool.

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THE STATEMENT SUIT Suits become the go-to for power dressing. From masculine silhouettes and relaxed fits to exaggerated shoulders and Chinese collars, there’s a suit this season for all.

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1. DRIES VAN NOTEN | 2. BOTTEGA VENETA | 3. CÉLINE | 4. EMILIA WICKSTEAD | 5. GABRIELA HEARST | 6. JIL SANDER | 7. HAIDER ACKERMANN | 8. MUGLER | 9. OSCAR DE LA RENTA | 10. TIBI | 11. PAUL ET JOE | 12. PACO RABANNE

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1. BLUMARINE | 2. NINA RICCI | 3. CHLOÉ | 4. MIU MIU | 5. MULBERRY

SEVENTIES SOPHISTICATION Seventies-style influences come to the fore again, in a refined mustard palette. Play up proportions by layering balloon sleeves under tunics or don a patterned coat over cigarette jeans for instant chic.

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DOUBLE DENIM Double denim shrugs off its kitsch reputation with plenty of covetable looks fully realised on the runways. Mix different washes and silhouettes, add embellished accessories and finish with a statement lip to pull off with panache.

1. PUBLIC SCHOOL | 2. MARC JACOBS | 3. PAUL ET JOE | 4. STELLA MCCARTNEY | 5. APC | 6. CALVIN KLEIN | 7. DIOR | 8. MSGM

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A MINI MOMENT The miniskirt exudes rock ‘n’ roll cool in spades. Balance out shorter cuts with statement boots and an oversized knit or a tactile turtleneck to carry off with confidence.

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1. MUGLER | 2. PACO RABANNE | 3. SAINT LAURENT | 4. VERSUS VERSACE

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1. ACNE | 2. BALMAIN | 3. ALEXANDER MCQUEEN | 4. PRABAL GURUNG | 5. MICHAEL KORS | 6. MARCHESA | 7. ROCHAS

FRINGED FACETS Fringe details embrace a moodier aesthetic for autumn. Alexander McQueen’s trailing edged accessories and Balmain’s shaggy knitwear emanate an avantgarde vibe while Michael Kors’ leather skirt is a versatile piece for day or night.

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THE GLOSSOVER High shine fabrics in a myriad of colours push the boundaries when it comes to outerwear this season. Don sportier parka styles with sneakers and ankle boots and wear trenches with a killer heel.

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1. CALVIN KLEIN | 2.

CHRISTOPHER KANE | 3. ELLERY | 4. LEMAIRE | 5. MIU MIU | 6. JOSEPH | 7. PHILOSOPHY | 8.

ROKSANDA | 9. SONIA RYKIEL | 10. SPORTMAX | 11. STELLA MCCARTNEY | 12. VANESSA SEWARD

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1. PRADA | 2. MISSONI | 3. CHANEL | 4. Nยบ21 | 5. VICTORIA BECKHAM

PREP SET Collegiate chic offers a refined approach to day dressing. Eschew pinstripes in favour of colourful checks and tweeds and break up coordinating sets with shirts or knitwear in contrasting lengths and hues.

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CHECK MATE Plaid undergoes a contemporary renaissance appearing in plethora of different cuts. Do wear head to toe, however experiment with roomier styles such as Rosie Assoulin’s flared trouser suit or Zimmermann’s cocoon coat.

1. ROSIE ASSOULIN | 2. CALVIN KLEIN | 3.

ALEXANDER WANG | 4.

ZIMMERMANN | 5. FENDI | 6. JASON WU | 7. ZUHAIR MURAD | 8. OFF-WHITE

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A GAME OF TONES Patchwork details bring an artisanal touch to winter dressing. Avoid being overambitious and stick to muted base tones juxtapositioned against smaller doses of lively hues. Wear with block separates and accessories.

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MISSONI | 3. PRADA | 4. SONIA RYKIEL

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Compiled by Mary Keenan

COLOUR AND PRINT

130 CO L O U R TR EN DS

This season’s colour palette borrows some of summer’s key shades with heady notes of opulence injected throughout. Sumptuous jewel tones bring regality to event attire and energetic shades of saffron and magenta keep daywear buoyant and upbeat.

MARY KATRANTZOU

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1. CHANEL | 2. AIGNER | 3.

CHRISTOPHER KANE | 4.

BALENCIAGA | 5. MUGLER | 6. OFF-WHITE | 7. PHILIPP PLEIN | 8. PACO RABANNE

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BACK TO THE FUTURE Iridescent shades of silver bring a futuristic edge to day and eveningwear. Enlist head to toe for avantgarde flair or add-in base colours, such as black and navy for a softer approach.

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GRAPE EXPECTATIONS Rich hues of grape and eggplant make their case for opulent dressing.

Consider lustrous fabrics and structured cuts to elevate daywear and look to floaty gowns for after-dark attire.

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1. SIES MARJAN | 2. AKRIS | 3. PUBLIC SCHOOL | 4. ROLAND MOURET | 5. TALBOT RUNHOF | 6. ANDREW GN

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SUNSET SHADES Striking bolts of orange pack a powerful punch on garments. Layer textures and contrasting fabrics for multidimensional daywear and stick to elongated silhouettes for outerwear and evening gowns.

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1. DION LEE | 2. EMILIO PUCCI | 3. SALVATORE FERRAGAMO | 4. TALBOT RUNHOF

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SAFFRON SPLENDOUR From muted mustards to buttery yellows, saffron hues appeared in a full spectrum of tones, finishes and fabrics. Velvet and silk exude refinement while heavier fabrics lend themselves well to office attire.

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1. ALBERTA FERRETTI | 2. LACOSTE | 3. LOEWE | 4.

ERDEM | 5. BOTTEGA VENETA | 6. ERIN FETHERSTON | 7. MUGLER | 8. PREEN | 9. HERMÉS | 10. GABRIELA HEARST | 11. TEATUM JONES | 12. TOME

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OPULENT OXBLOOD Deep burgundy tones have bold visual appeal. Don’t be afraid to construct an entire outfit in the same hue, simply utilise different sheens to add points of interest and difference.

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BAROQUE BEAUTY Burnished fabrics with damask prints herald an ode to grandeur. Streamlined silhouettes such as Mary Katrantzou’s slimline trench appear modern and sophisticated, while dresses in unique cuts make a strong statement for cocktail wear.

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1. MARY KATRANTZOU | 2. BADGLEY MISCHKA | 3. ERDEM | 4. TADASHI SHOJI | 5. PAUL COSTELLOE | 6. ANNA SUI

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JEWEL TONES Summer brights transition into sumptuous jewel tones for autumn.

Gowns in rich hues such as ruby red, sapphire blue, yellow tourmaline and emerald green offer a breath of fresh air to red carpet dressing.

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THE GREEN DREAM The runways were awash with soothing shades of green, which appeared in the form of fluid dresses at Saint Laurent and Elie Saab and sharply cut coats at ChloĂŠ and Mary Katrantzou.

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DELPOZO | 5. ANYA HINDMARCH | 6. CHLOÉ | 7. ISSEY MIYAKE | 8. MARY KATRANTZOU | 9. TADASHI SHOJI | 10. SAINT LAURENT | 11. PACO RABANNE | 12. TIBI

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FUCHSIA FLASH Bold and unabashed shades of fuchsia and magenta made an unexpected but welcome appearance across all four fashion capitals. Pair with nude or black accessories to avoid overcomplicating the look.

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A CCES S O RY TR ENDS

Compiled by Mary Keenan

ACC ESSO RIES

FENDI

From statement over-the-knee boots in commanding hues to intergalacticinspired handbags and unusual jewels, accessories come with hardhitting impact this season. Look towards unexpected pieces in arresting shades and shapes that have the ability to instantly transform any outfit.

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Brooches offer an effortless way to add vibrancy and texture to any winter ensemble. Consider timeless styles with metal hardware and coloured stones, or opt for an heirloom piece to make a real impact.

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Ankle boots and heeled sandals are updated for the season with tough girl embellishments. Look for subtle stud details, oversized buckles and metal toe caps to bring an edge to footwear.

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HARDWARE HEELS

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1. ALTUZARRA | 2. DAVID KOMA | 3. ALEXANDER WANG | 4. VERSACE | 5. MONSE

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154 The offbeat sock and sandal pairing make a subtle, yet not altogether unexpected return to the spotlight this season.

Try wearing socks of similar tones with a pair of heeled sandals or match athletic-style socks to an opulent velvet shoe for a striking clash of textures.

THE SOCK EXCHANGE

1. ISABEL MARANT | 2. ANGELO MARANI | 3. EMPORIO ARMANI | 4. LES COPAINS | 5. N°21

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Opera gloves take on a dual role this autumn, offering both practical and visual appeal.

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evening attire.

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Rockets, planets, stars and astronauts were recurring motifs on the autumn/ winter17 runways. Invest in Chanel’s rocket clutch or consider a more abstract space age-inspired buy, such as Christopher Kane’s Devine shoulder bag.

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Dome-shaped jewellery adds a contemporary touch after a summer of fantastical and abstract pieces dominating proceedings. Opt for a single earring to make a strong visual statement or try a clustered earring for an avant-garde approach to cocktail jewellery.

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BUBBLED BAUBLES

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1. ELISABETTA FRANCHI | 2. GIAMBATTISTA VALLI | 3. MUGLER | 4. OSCAR DE LA RENTA | 5. MARQUES ALMEIDA

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158 The hobo establishes itself as the handbag silhouette of the season. Structured styles in black, navy and burgundy lend themselves well to workwear, while slouchy versions nail offduty nonchalance.

HAUTE HOBO

1. ANYA HINDMARCH | 2. ACNE | 3. EUDON CHOI | 4. PROENZA SCHOULER | 5. MICHAEL KORS

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TWINKLE TOES

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5 1. SAINT LAURENT | 2. CHANEL | 3. MSGM | 4. MISSONI | 5. MARCO DE VINCENZO

With sparks of silver a leading runway trend, accessories followed suit with aplomb. Opt for a pair of sparkly ankle boots to add just the right amount of charm and whimsy to skintight leather trousers or 4

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jeans this season.

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NEW HEIGHTS

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3 1. FENDI | 2. ELLERY | 3. FRANCESCO SCOGNAMIGLIO | 4. JASPER CONRAN | 5. PRADA

Over-the-knee boots come in an eye-catching array of intense brights. Select heeled styles to elongate the leg and invest in a leather or an exotic skin pair to outlast seasonal wet weather.

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Triangular bags become the It style for autumn.

Structured versions in sleek leather such as Nina Ricci and Céline’s offerings bode well for office attire.

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THE RIGHT ANGLE

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1. CÉLINE | 2. STELLA MCCARTNEY | 3. CUSHNIE ET OCHS | 4. NINA RICCI | 5. JASON WU

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162 Floral patterns and prints bring pretty pops of colour to footwear. Baroqueinspired prints in rich jacquard-like fabrics set an opulent tone, while Gucci’s floral studded boots channel a free-spirited vibe.

FLORAL FOOTWORK

1. GUCCI | 2. ERDEM | 3. ERDEM | 4. PREEN | 5. AU JOUR LE JOUR

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UNUSUAL ADORNMENTS

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5 1. ADEAM | 2. BALMAIN | 3. PHILIPP PLEIN | 4. NICHOLAS K | 5. GUCCI

Unconventional jewellery was the choice du jour for many designers this season, emerging in a variety of different guises. Pick out Adeam’s dainty nose peg or a crescent ring for a statement look that’s off 4

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the beaten track.

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Boundaries are there to be broken. This season day and night, city and country merge to form a previously unseen aesthetic. Marry lacetrimmed delicate silken slips with the practically of tough, low-heeled

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boots and juxtapose sports luxe against fine fur.

Photographed by THANASSIS KRIKIS Styled by KELLY BALDWIN

Velvet Versailles top, Gabardine trousers and Limitless ankle boots, LOUIS VUITTON

Velvet Versailles top, Bouclette skirt and Limitless high boots, LOUIS VUITTON

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Ribbed patch knit sweater, leather skirt and Limitless ankle boots, LOUIS VUITTON

Lambskin leather coat, viscose Duchesse dress and Limitless high boots, LOUIS VUITTON

English ribbed knit jumper and hologram Crew necklace, LOUIS VUITTON

Fox fur gillet and leather trousers, LOUIS VUITTON

Faux fur coat and denim effect wool trousers, LOUIS VUITTON

Knit jumper, chantilly print skirt, Handy LV belt, Limitless ankle boots and hologram bracelet, LOUIS VUITTON

Model: Claire De Regge Hair and makeup: Hara Papanikolaou Videography (watch on MOJEH.com): Ilianna Meidani Photography assistants: Katerina Goritsa Gavogiannis Marios Styling assistant: Georgia Kleisoura

Macrame top and chantilly Bouclette dress, LOUIS VUITTON

STRENGTH OF THE SEASON Florals find their way into a multitude of formats. Folkloric embellishments compete with microsized powder pink rose patterns while magnificent Baroque blooms become a focus point. Pair with

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tough leather accessories for an assertion of power.

Photographed by DANILO HESS Styled by STACEY CUNNINGHAM

Coat, FENDI | bodysuit, ALIX | boots, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN | beret, necklace and earrings, DIOR | choker, JENNIFER FISHER | ear cuffs, SASKIA DIEZ

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Top and skirt, VERSACE | boots, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN | choker, EDDIE BORGO

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Jacket and trousers, DOLCE&GABBANA | bodysuit, ALIX | boots, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN | choker, EDDIE BORGO | ear cuffs, SASKIA DIEZ

Reagan wears dress, CHANEL | choker, JENNIFER FISHER Natalia wears dress, CHANEL | ear cuffs, SASKIA DIEZ

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Dress and jacket, DIOR | harness, ZANA BAYNE | boots, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN | ear cuffs, SASKIA DIEZ | earrings and choker, DIOR | choker, JENNIFER FISHER

Dress, ETRO | belt, ISABEL MARANT | boots, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN | choker, SOPHIE BUHAI

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Coat, STELLA MCCARTNEY | top, NILI LOTAN | skirt and boots, KENZO | choker, JENNIFER FISHER | bag, LOUIS VUITTON

Dress, JASON WU | leather harness, ZANA BAYNE | boots, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN | bag, TORY BURCH

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Reagan wears dress, ALENA AKHMADULLINA | boots, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN | choker, EDDIE BORGO Natalia wears dress, jacket, earrings and choker, DIOR | harness, ZANA BAYNE | boots, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN | ear cuffs, SASKIA DIEZ | choker, JENNIFER FISHER

Jacket, ERDEM | earrings, SASKIA DIEZ | bag, ALEXANDER WANG

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Jumper, dress and boots, LOUIS VUITTON | choker, BALENCIAGA

Kimono, pants and belt, GUCCI | choker, JENNIFER FISHER | ear cuffs, SASKIA DIEZ

Models: Regan Kemper at Women Management Natalia Sirotina at The Lions Makeup artist: Craig Honeycutt Hair stylist: John Ruidant Photography assistant: James Yarusinsky Videography (watch on MOJEH.com): Brandon Taelor Aviram

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Top, MONSE | earrings, JACK VARTANIAN

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The song of the season is shine. Leather, lame, PVC and mirrored embellishments lead the way, layer for a fully loaded effect or give a gentle glimpse at gloss through

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ornate accessories and gilded trimmings.

Photographed by SIMONE GOLFIERI Styled by AMARSANA GENDUNOVA

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Suit, BARBARA BUI | necklace, JACK VARTANIAN

Coat and boots, FENDI

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Dress, PRABAL GURUNG | shorts, DIOR

Dress, VICTORIA HAYES | earrings, ERICKSON BEAMON

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Jacket and dress, DIANE VON FURSTENBERG

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Jacket, DOLCE&GABBANA | ring, DESTÉENE

Top, DRIES VAN NOTEN | trousers, LAN YU | shoes, MONSE

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Top, skirt and jacket, FAITH CONNEXION | stockings, FOGAL | earrings, JACK VARTANIAN

Top, skirt, belt and gloves, MICHAEL KORS

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Dress, ALEXANDER WANG

Model: Alina Baikova Makeup artist: Misuzu Miyake Hair stylist: Katsumi Matsuo Photography assistant: Davide Marchica Styling assistant: Jenn Tachavichien

Compiled by Sophie Pasztor

204 H I G H N OTES

FENDI

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REVOLUTIONARY RED Be unapologetically bold with fiery shades of red. This confident hue is both powerful and passionate, commanding immediate attention and casting a mesmeric charm over its wearer. Dynamic in all forms, explore stones such as rubies, garnets, rubellites, coppered cuprite and red topaz to make a rich and sweeping statement.

1. CHOPARD | 2. BVLGARI | 3. STEPHEN WEBSTER | 4. DE GRISOGONO | 5. DIOR

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3.1 PHILLIP LIM

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RIBBON RACE The ribbon has long captivated designers with its femininity, gracefully coiling jewellery in a romantic embrace. When tied, the bow tales an eternal bond of love and affection that is both powerful and sincere. Look to pieces like the La Nature de Chaumet necklace encompassing a dazzling trail of blue and white stones.

1. VAN CLEEF & ARPELS | 2. CHAUMET | 3. YVEL | 4. BUTANI | 5. DIOR

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M O J EH J EW EL LE RY

A Matter of Taste Regional prosperity has propelled the Middle Eastern woman to the highest echelons of high jewellery connoisseur. MOJEH celebrates this rise to consequence, as well as the shifts in taste that reflect changes to power.

Words by Annie Darling

Top to bottom: Corona bracelet with rubellites, pink sapphires and diamonds set in pink gold, GIAMPIERO BODINO | Diamond-studded earcuffs made using Gemfields’ stones, STEPHEN WEBSTER

Left to right: A standout Gemfieldssourced Zambian emerald ring, ERICA COURTNEY | Brooch and sculpture, entitled Stilled Life, set with imperial jadeite, rubies and diamonds, WALLACE CHAN

Women in the Middle East have long been enthusiastic

senior international jewellery specialist, who wears an

appreciators of diamond-drenched high jewellery and

eye-catching string of splendidly fat pearls.

boundary-breaking timepieces. According to the market

“There’s been about 50 years, really, of major jewellery

research company Euromonitor International, the value of

buying history in the Middle East,” begins Bennett, who

ladies’ high-end watch sales in the region has increased

is regarded internationally as an authority in the field

by 9 per cent year on year, and the vast majority of sales

of precious stones. A key figure in the auction world,

are reportedly made in the United Arab Emirates (UAE).

he’s presided over the sale of numerous exceptional

Numerous high-profile beauties have been known to

coloured gems, including the world auction record for

adorn the finest creations available. Queen Rania of

any pink diamond: AED 170 million for the 24.78-carat

Jordan, for example, is renowned for her sensational

Fancy Intense Graff Pink, in November 2010. These

tiaras that sparkle in the spotlight; an exquisite diadem,

days, he says, the ever-increasing rise of spending

crafted by Boucheron in 2008, is arguably her most

power among Middle Eastern consumers is shaping the

notable. First worn during a state visit to Brunei, her

way jewellery is both worn and appreciated worldwide.

royal highness donned the dazzling headpiece two

Sported as a classic choker or generously draped

years later at the wedding of Crown Princess Victoria

over the body, the Persian Gulf’s celebrated pearls

of Sweden, and again for the tenth anniversary

will, of course, always be popular in the region (and

celebrations of her husband’s accession to the throne.

worldwide), while immaculate Golconda diamonds

In Dubai, meanwhile, on a sweltering mid-summer

have long been imported from India; often reserved

morning, the luxurious Four Seasons Resort in the city’s

for nightfall, their multifaceted surfaces dance when

international financial centre (DIFC) is an inviting escape

reflected in flickering candlelight. But the modern Middle

from the dewy humidity and blazing-hot sun. The hotel’s

Eastern woman isn’t just richer, furthers Bennett – an

opulent café is adorned in palatial pepper-hued lounge

insightful twinkle glimmers from behind his rectangular

chairs, which are surrounded by gilded ornaments

black-rimmed glasses. She’s becoming impressively

and slick, metallic surfaces. After ordering a creamy

advanced and global in her high jewellery tastes. “The

cappuccino, David Bennett, worldwide chairman of

region is not only becoming rapidly prosperous, but its

Sotheby’s International Jewellery Division, enters with an

women are also travelling hugely, including to London

exuberant smile, alongside Daniela Mascetti, the firm’s

and Paris,” he exclaims with unmistakable admiration.

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Jewellery and watches have always been an important part of the Middle Eastern woman’s culture.

Mascetti interjects in a voluptuous, rolling accent: “It’s this century’s phenomenon that the Middle Eastern woman has really slighted traditional tastes and graduated to more sophisticated, European tastes.” Amit Dhamani, managing editor of Dhamani Jewels, agrees. “She’s had a great love for plain gold and semi-precious stones,” he tells MOJEH, when asked about how regional penchants have developed, “but with world modernisation, new cultures and designs being introduced, they bring with them different ways to display precious gemstones.”

French maison Chaumet’s CEO, Jean-Marc Mansvelt, says that while, “jewellery and watches have always been an important part of the Middle Eastern woman’s culture, her assertive taste has developed, influenced by travels and socio-cultural evolution.”

“Tastes have developed from relatively ‘loud’ pieces, not necessarily branded or well manufactured, to more ‘elegant’ items,” concurs Omar Chaoui, managing director of the Middle East and India region for de Grisogono, before adding that, despite the change in contemporary designs, clients are still “very much into novelties”. Roberto Coin believes that there’s a gap in the market for creations with aesthetics that are more refined, sophisticated and less ostentatious. Speaking about his own company he says, “It’s difficult to be a brand that’s so different that you don’t recognise the jewellery, because normally you buy a brand because you want it to be recognised that you’re wearing a Cartier or a Chopard.”

Pascal Mouawad, co-guardian of Mouawad, is dedicated to the pursuit of artistic excellence and technical perfection. “Today, more than ever, women in the region seek unique, contemporary designs that mirror their character,” he tells MOJEH. “The Middle Eastern woman is very much about discerning taste and, most importantly, being unique.” He fondly adds that, “She looks for finesse and elegance”. “Settling for second best is not an option for her,” he laughs, “as she always wants to make a bold statement.” Mansvelt also considers regional jewellery preferences to be clear-cut and specific. “The Middle Eastern woman looks for sophistication and distinction with her jewellery Top to bottom: Séraphîta ring featuring a 16.46-carat Madagascan sapphire, Labyrinthe ring featuring a 13.01-carat Fancy Intense yellow diamond, Fleur Bleue ring featuring emeralds, tourmalines, diamonds and a central sapphire, VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

as part of defining her style and status. Design, recognition and legitimacy are important factors.”

The preferences of an emerging-market and younger

Left to right: Pastorale Anglaise watch in white gold and lacquer, set with rubies, emeralds, sapphires and yellow sapphires, and matching earrings set with emeralds, rubies, sapphires and diamonds, CHAUMET

consumer who’s tech-savvy and extraordinarily well

day collections. “They are more than well informed

connected are also having a growing influence on the

about jewellery,” affirms Mouawad, “making sure they’re

jewellery that’s sold in the region, explains Bennett.

selecting an exceptional piece that’s different from

Millennials constitute 40 per cent of the population

everyone else, while radiating timeless sophistication.”

in the Middle East; they value authenticity and like to

Dhamani agrees. “Middle Eastern women have always

differentiate themselves. “In the beginning when you’re

been educated about gemstones,” he says. “However in

not confident in your own tastes you generally buy what’s

the last four to five years, with the increased accessibility

the accepted thing,” suggests Bennett, when discussing

of digital and social media platforms, they are coming

the purchasing behaviour of previous generations. “If you

to know more about gemstones and jewellery designs

see your peers wearing a Van Cleef & Arpels necklace,

that the rest of the world has to offer.”

you’re going to aspire to own and wear that necklace.

“I wouldn’t say that they’re better educated, as taste and

Gradually, when you become more confident in your

elegance are more of a natural talent, especially here,”

own tastes, you then want what nobody else has got,”

says Chaoui. “I would say that they are better informed

he explains. “You want something that’s very special.”

today.” The impact of the internet has heavily influenced

The Middle Eastern high jewellery clientele is one of the

consumer awareness. In a country that has one of the

greatest admirers of extraordinary craftsmanship and

highest number of shops per capital in the world, with

beauty, which are present in both historic and present-

4.7 million-square-metres of shopping centres in Dubai

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Top to bottom: Natural pearl and diamond earrings sold by Sotheby’s Geneva in 2017, REZA | 62.34-carat diamond Le Soleil necklace and matching earrings, MOUAWAD

Serpenti timepiece with quartz Calibre B033, BVLGARI

and Abu Dhabi alone, UAE aficionados have been slow

a-kind pieces have been sold to prominent regional

to make online purchases. But over the past few years,

families, while Fabergé says that the most significant

there has been a seismic shift towards e-commerce with

buyers of its imperial-class eggs are Qatari.

Dubai, despite being famed for its luxury mega malls,

Van Cleef & Arpels has always had a fondness for

boasting the highest number of online shoppers – at 46

emeralds. In November 1966 the maison received a

per cent – in the UAE, according to a survey by Awok.

request from the Iranian government to create several

com. A separate study by Network International found

high jewellery sets for the former empress, Farah

that 34 per cent of residents make online purchases

Pahlavi. Mascetti points out that, when it comes to

frequently –between one and five times each week. And

jewellery, the Middle East is starting to hark back to

while historically the world of high jewellery has been

historically decadent time periods. “This generation has

regarded as a members-only club, opening the doors

joined the Old World,” she leans forward, eagerly. “She

to the mass sites, such as Flont is making extraordinary

[the Middle Eastern woman] has started to appreciate

pieces much more covetable in the digital age.

vintage jewels from the Twenties and Thirties, rather

As the economy prospers, it brings a significant

than coloured gemstones that were big, that were

breakthrough in the jewellery market, and Dhamani has

flashy, and that were opulent.” It seems that prosperity

already started to notice the emergence of jewel trends

and travel are reviving the taste for decadent, cultured

that are specifically significant to connoisseurs from the

objects, and that the grand style of old is back in vogue.

region. “Of all the gemstones, emeralds in particular

“In recent years, we’ve seen an increase in interest for

have captured the Middle Eastern woman’s attention

historical and archive pieces,” concurs Mansvelt, which

with their vivid beauty, because the colour green holds a

makes one wonder: Are Middle Eastern women trying to

significant meaning in the region’s culture.” Considered

obtain, what was (for their ancestors) the unobtainable?

the traditional shade of Islam, green represents fertility,

Are they grappling for a slice of age-old luxury and

luck, and wealth. Mansvelt reveals that Chaumet’s

nostalgia while living in a region that’s dominated by

Pastorale Anglaise set, which reinterprets the Scottish

gutsy ambition and futuristic vision? Whatever the

tartan motif, has been notably revered. “It was designed

reason, these acquired tastes in jewellery are not

around extraordinary emeralds from Muzo mines in

only being adapted, but oftentimes spearheaded by

Colombia. The vivid green exceptional stones are

jewellery connoisseurs in the Middle East. Surely, it’s

particularly popular in the Middle East.” He also admits

only a matter of time before the region takes flight and

that many of the brand’s special orders and one-of-

becomes a leader in the industry’s well-gilded evolution.

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T H E C O L L EC TI ON

PURSUIT OF POWER Louis Vuitton sets out on a quest for greatness with its new high jewellery collection, Conquête.

Power, self-assurance and beauty are all qualities used to identify the Louis Vuitton woman. Paying homage to this spirit, the House have unveiled a new high jewellery collection titled Conquête. Here we see two of the maison’s emblematic signature motifs, the monogram flower and the V, fused together for the first time in a truly incredible union. The collection comprises of three stunning necklaces and an accompaniment of 60 individual pieces of jewellery. The Louis Vuitton woman’s conquests come to life with a blue 54.30-carat tourmaline suspended on a long chain of pearls and diamonds. heart shape. Mirrored out, the design forms links that make up the contours of a necklace, set with a 16.82-carat mandarin garnet. Another necklace unites heraldic symbols from the two motifs to illustrate a contemporary family crest. At its heart, an imperial topaz totalling 37.07-carats, links the V and the diamond flower. Its distinctive orange and pink hues are amplified by pastel tones seen in accompanying opals.

Words by Sophie Pasztor

The iconic V and monogram flower lock together in romantic fusion to form an abstract

H I D D E N

TREASURES The lure of high jewellery is heightened with Van Cleef & Arpels charmed Le Secret collection.

The enchanting splendour of high jewellery has long enticed us, whether it’s through hypnotic light refraction, bouncing through a stone’s innumerable colour variations, or expert artisans who painstakingly set each gem to create a unique piece of art. Van Cleef & Arpels have taken this ideology even further with their Le Secret collection, playfully unveiling hidden components in their jewellery that might have been missed on first glance. Whether it be a ring with a secret message that can be revealed with one touch, or a brooch that rests as a flower with the capabilities to dismount into a precious butterfly pin, the possibilities are endless. However, it’s the Colombe Mystérieuse Clip that has us truly enthralled, thoughtfully embellished with a mix of white, red and pink gold and a scattering of diamonds, emeralds and rubies. More than ever before, this collection showcases the breadth of expertise exhibited in the Van Cleef & Arpels workshops. Their highly complex designs, taking around 2280 hours to complete, give full expression to the jeweller’s virtuosity. The back of this precious jewel conceals its secret, a unique engraving that reads L’Amour and a hidden flower motif.

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Blurred Lines earrings in white gold with diamonds, pearls and blue sapphires, CHANEL FINE JEWELLERY Dress with knitted belt in black wool and polyamide, CHANEL

HIGH TIDES Chanel’s latest high jewellery collection romanticises the spirit of the high seas. MOJEH decamped to the South of France to meet Frédéric Grangié, president of the brand’s watch-jewellery division to discover the inspiration and significance behind the pieces.

Interview by Mojeh Izadpanah, words by Mary Keenan, photographed by Chantelle Dosser, styled by Anna Klein

Season after season, the House of Chanel enlightens us with a

liberal approach, exploring the freedom and fluidity of a summer

collection that further builds upon the storied narrative of Gabrielle

wardrobe. Braid details, taken from marine uniforms, ornately

‘Coco’ Chanel. This year is no exception, with their latest high

weave their way around rings and cuffs. Stunning bib style

jewellery collection drawing on her personal relationship with

necklaces, inspired by traditional sailor suits, are set in white

the second Duke of Westminster, Hugh Grosvenor. Named

gold and adorned with sapphires and diamonds. “To some extent

after his impressive sailboat, the Flying Cloud, which was

this is highly unexpected high jewellery,” explains Grangié, “what

one of the biggest and most luxurious ships of its time, the

makes it so special is the way masculine elements, such as the

collection encompasses a distinct nautical theme. Taking

ropes have been made fluid and feminine.”

maritime motifs such as anchors, braided ropes, floats and

The brand’s decision to showcase the collection at La Pausa,

elements of sailors’ uniforms and turning them into exquisite

was as always, meticulously thought out and loaded with

icons crafted from pearls, blue sapphires and white and yellow

veiled significance. “We wanted to bring the house back to

diamonds, the pieces offer us an insight into yet another untold

life,” explains Grangié. Nestled into a quiet hillside overlooking

story from Chanel’s life.

the sparkling, azure-coloured waters of the French Riviera, La

To mark the collection’s launch, the House invited MOJEH

Pausa played host to many guests and fabulous parties held

to Chanel’s expansive Mediterranean-style villa, La Pausa in

by Chanel herself from the Thirties to the Fifties. “You know,”

Roquebrune-Cap-Martin to view the pieces. “The inspiration for

smiles Grangié, “There was a small telegraph room in this house,

the collection came from an image of Gabrielle Chanel standing

so when the Duke of Westminster was heading this way on the

on the deck of the Flying Cloud,” notes Frédéric Grangié as we

Flying Cloud, he would send a telegraph saying, ‘I’m on my

sit down to chat. “Our design team then started with details

way’ and Gabrielle would respond, ‘I can’t wait to see you.’ The

from the boat itself, before drawing on the sailors’ uniforms.

telegraphs are labelled from La Pausa to Flying Cloud, so we

Visually, it came down to two main colours – white and blue.

loved that- it was a symbol of the relationship between the two.”

It’s a very clear statement and it’s very striking, we didn’t want

When discussing who he envisions the pieces being worn by,

to compromise on that nautical theme.” A blue and white colour

Grangié’s answer reflects the consumer shift that the luxury

palette for a nautical-themed collection might sound a touch

industry is currently experiencing. “The tattoo rings are fun and

clichéd, but when reimagined in dazzling 18-karat white gold

extremely modern pieces- they address the fact that our client

with brilliant-cut diamonds and sapphires, it’s nothing short of

base is getting younger and younger, and that women are buying

extraordinary. “We knew it had to look strong and sturdy - almost

the pieces they want to wear for themselves, to express their

as if you could pull a boat with it,” he laughs, “but at the same

own personalities.” And he’s right. While this is very much a fine

time its fluid, extremely light and super feminine. We like that

jewellery collection, there are pieces within it that embody a

contrast, it’s something you see from us quite often.”

youthful, carefree spirit. “Jewellery has become a way to express

Divided into two chapters, the first of which takes essential

one’s personality, rather than simply a gift from a husband or

seafaring tools and instruments and transforms them into

a boyfriend. I very much hope the pieces from this collection

beacons of luxury. Buoys are represented in white gold, cultured

will be worn as daywear; I think our younger clients would love

pearls and striking lapis-lazuli, while anchors are emblazoned

the idea of one of the necklaces worn with a t-shirt and jeans.”

with gold, pearls and sapphires and compasses are set in

Photographed by Chantelle Dosser and styled by Anna Klein, see

white and yellow gold. The second chapter adopts a more

our interpretation of the unique pieces across the following pages.

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Sparkling Lines bracelet in white gold with diamonds, CHANEL FINE JEWELLERY Dress with knitted belt in black wool and polyamide, CHANEL

220 Sailor Suit earrings in white gold with diamonds and blue sapphires, CHANEL FINE JEWELLERY Jacket in black, silver, grey and white fantasy tweed, CHANEL

Sunny Rope bracelet in yellow gold with diamonds, CHANEL FINE JEWELLERY Pullover in black cashmere and skirt in black double face lambskin, CHANEL

222

Golden Braid earrings in yellow gold with diamonds, CHANEL FINE JEWELLERY Pullover in black cashmere, CHANEL

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Sailor Suit earrings in white and yellow gold with blue sapphires and diamonds, CHANEL FINE JEWELLERY

Blurred Lines necklace in white gold with blue sapphires, pearls and diamonds, CHANEL FINE JEWELLERY Dress with knitted belt in black wool and polyamide and short boots in black lambskin and grosgrain, CHANEL

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Summer Cruise necklace in white gold and yellow gold with yellow diamonds, blue sapphires and pearls, CHANEL FINE JEWELLERY Skirt in black double face lambskin, CHANEL

Model: Marine Gaudin at Supreme Management Hair and makeup: June Sawyer Photography assistant: Gautier Picrel

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H A I R A ND B EA U T Y T R E NDS

Compiled by Mary Keenan

Image courtesy of CHANEL

refined look to suit any occasion.

lids and high-shine lips to multi-faceted ponytails and up-dos, there’s a

that will bring glamour to both day and night. From dramatic smoky

Makeup takes on undeniably luxurious accords with a spectrum of looks

HAIR & BEAUTY

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1

Glittery copper shades bring an autumnal glow to eyelids.

Layer against deep brown shadows for evening drama or use a shadow pencil to emit a

AMBER ATTRACTION

subtle sheen during the day.

3

2 1. BRANDON MAXWELL | 2. JULIEN MACDONALD | 3. LES COPAINS | 4. CHRISTIAN SIRIANO

4

1

The new statement eye encompasses a vibrant mix of three different colours. Take a more graphic approach by drawing exaggerated sweeps into defined shapes or create a messier look

2 1. ALBERTA FERRETTI | 2. BALMAIN | 3. HOUSE OF HOLLAND | 4. LEITMOTIV

4

TRIPLE THREAT

with a blending brush.

3

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1

UNDONE GLAMOUR

2

3

Gently tousled tresses and illuminated skin become the winning combination to achieve a relaxed beauty look. Keep eye

4

makeup natural and apply a slick of nude gloss to lips to finish.

1. JILL STUART | 2. REDEMPTION | 3.

NINA RICCI | 4. LES COPAINS

1

ORANGE AID

3

2

Warm orange and yellow tones have an uplifting effect on a neutrally-hued ensemble. Contrast brighter shadows against minimal makeup or blend softer shades together for a golden glow.

1. JOHN GALLIANO | 2. TALBOT RUNHOF | 3.

CARMEN MARC VALVO| 4. OSCAR DE LA RENTA

4

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1

Lips stained with two hues is both unconventional and incredibly attractive. Use a hardwearing lip pencil to create the outline and then a darker lipstick or gloss to make a

KISS KISS

visible contrast.

3

2 1. TEMPERLEY LONDON | 2. ANDREW GN | 3.

ROSIE ASSOULIN | 4. ANN DEMEULEMEESTER

4

1

High shine pouts are back, this time in shades of vivid red. Use a scrub to remove dead skin then define lips with a liner for a longer-lasting

2 1. OSMAN | 2. GIAMBATTISTA VALLI | 3. JILL STUART | 4. OSMAN

4

LUSTROUS LIPS

effect, before applying gloss.

3

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1

THE POSH PONY

2

3

The humble ponytail undergoes a polished transformation this season, elevating it to evening up-do territory.

Take your cue from Arthur Arbesser

4

and incorporate sculpted waves or weave in plaits to add volume.

1. ARTHUR ARBESSER | 2. BALMAIN | 3.

EMPORIO ARMANI | 4. AIGNER

1

SIDE SWEEP

3

2

Side partings offer plenty of versatility. Go sleek and smooth for a professional look or use an extreme part to bring a hint of rebellion to sea salt spritzed tresses.

1. EUDON CHOI | 2. GENNY | 3. JENNY PACKHAM | 4. MARCHESA

4

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1

Recreate the sensual smokey eye by applying a light shadow into the inner corner, before layering and blending two different shades of brown across the crease and edge – finish with a sweep of eyeliner

THE BIG SMOKE

and lashings of mascara.

3

2 1. BRANDON MAXWELL | 2. JILL STUART | 3. PPQ | 4. ELIE SAAB

4

1

A spectrum of blues flooded the runways with electric, cobalt and navy shades proving to be the most eye-catching. Contrast with a deep red lip for a perfect match

2 1. ANNA SUI | 2. PRABAL GURUNG | 3. JOHN GALLIANO | 4. VERSUS VERSACE

4

TRUE BLUE

to your metallic blue lids.

3

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WE L L N ES S J O U RNE Y

HEALTH O V E R H A U L

MOJEH seeks inner balance and a wellness shift along the Mediterranean shoreline.

After an eight-hour flight from the Middle East and a two-hour nighttime drive through Spain’s eastern shoreline, between the bay of Altea and the natural park of Sierra Helade, one arrives at Sha, a world-renowned clinic boasting an elite clientele of celebrities, politicians and athletes. Towering whitewash walls with a tranquil view of Alicante’s mountain scape behind and infinite Mediterranean seas to the front sum up the splendid vista on arrival at the Spanish sanctuary. The clinic is forward-thinking in both its modern day architectural structure and its health and wellness ideologies, and invites European and international guests to join one of many wellness programmes, each with the aim of tackling specific ailments or long-term complaints.

We’ve arrived for a short - but nonetheless effective – respite from the Middle Eastern summer.

The journey begins with a medley of consultations - including a nutritionist and medical consultant - who assess each client’s current state of health and determine which of Sha’s many pathways is most suitable. The environment is pristine and everything you’d expect from a clinic built only a few years after the turn of the millennium – there’s no spiritual ideologies or yogis here. Instead, medical expertise reigns supreme and programmes are based on scientific fact. Hi-tech, with a human touch; clean, sugar-free, cuisine provides the baseline for daily menus (in tune with popular culture), but Sha’s approach is much more systematic and simple: small portions and a low calorie intake equals weight loss. On request, additional food is available away from the set meal plans, but regular weigh-ins are inevitable, so there’s no fooling the system.

Solo travellers, couples, and in some cases whole families look towards the clinic’s experts for both psychological and physical guidance in overcoming unhealthy lifestyles and more pointed conditions such as insomnia and addiction. A simple peruse through the spa menu – acupuncture and a plethora of massages are among a few of the services on offer – or an afternoon spent in either the out or indoor pools prove that there’s something for everyone. Those with a penchant for fitness however, would be hard pushed to have their needs met during the stay. Sha’s sturdy focus on treatments and nutrition has left a lot to be desired in that domain: the gym is unquestionably small; yoga classes barely move beyond stretching and group

MOJEH RECOMMENDS Cuisine – A nutritionist places guests on either the Kushi, Biolite or Sha diet at the start of the journey depending on their individual goals. Meals are clean, fresh and relatively healthy in all options, but we suggest Biolite, which is both a fulfilling and health conscious route. Be prepared for small portions and don’t shy away from consulting your nutritionist if light meals make you too lethargic to participate in the workout sessions.

classes are lacklustre.

But, you’d find it difficult to mind when the alternative to an hour in the gym is an hour (or more) undergoing a detox massage using cupping therapy or an underwater treatment. Undeniably,

Exploration – Trained instructors lead daily treks either beachside, across mountain scape or through the local town. The early morning call time can be off putting, but the fresh air, change of scenery and chance to converse with other guests makes it more than worthwhile.

this is what the clinic was built for and it remains its forte.

Success stories are rife. Some clients stay for a week, others a month, but the clinic’s proven approach means that, providing guests approach it willingly (the price list is enough to encourage

Treatments – The Sha clinic takes an all-encompassing, state-of-the-art approach to wellness and experts are ready to tackle anything from weight loss and anti-ageing to genetic medicine. We recommend the biotechnology facial, a simple but effective treatment in smoothing and lifting the skin.

dedication), it’s difficult to walk away without having experienced both mental and physical change.

Four days and three nights later, along with an abundance of fresh, Mediterranean air and regular rejuvenating therapies, and we’re all set to tackle the final part of the year.

Hydrotherapy circuit – For a combination of cardio, relaxation and detox, try and work an hour at the hydrotherapy suite into your daily schedule.

The 23-set circuit moves between steam rooms, saunas, ice baths and water jets with the aim of removing toxins and tightening muscles amongst other things. Add a fast 30 minutes in the lap pool to really feel the benefits.

242

M O J EH B EA U TY

PUNK

P E R F U M E RY As Somerset House’s latest exhibition, Perfume: A Sensory Journey Through Contemporary Scent, opens its doors we look to the perfume provocateurs to propel us forward into a deeper understanding of our olfactory senses.

Words by Laura Beaney

It’s a scorching summer’s day on the

religious ceremonies, while from Persia

have virtually no vocabulary to describe

outskirts of Moscow, hordes of denim-

to China it became the marker of civilised

odours, except in relation to the other

clad teenagers converge upon sweltering

society. However, you could also argue

senses, so smell is often communicated

tarmac while wheels bore into the post-

that smell is the least valued of our

primarily through clichéd similes and

Soviet, concrete sidewalk. The smell of

senses. The prominence awarded to

metaphors. And when we consider

rubber and tar collide, exposing the scent

fine dining sees increasingly inexplicable

perfumes, cultivated by man, traditionally,

of youth and freedom. For his first foray

combinations of ingredients- from pansies

there’s a distinct sliding scale between

into scent cult, fashion designer, Gosha

to goose liver- pander to the taste buds.

the clean and the cliché, but today’s

Rubchinskiy shied away from fields and

Similarly, in summer we fly to Salzburg

avant-garde visionaries like Rubchinskiy

forests instead focussing on skateboard

to tune into the audial intricacies of its

are setting fresh parameters that evade

wheels grinding against asphalt for his

symphonies or queue patiently outside

and reimagine such elementary confines.

olfactory offering. It’s a smell that signifies

galleries to admire works by old masters

Rubchinskiy embarked on his endeavor

a new era in fragrance.

and emerging artists. Our sense of smell,

with perfumer Alexis Dadier and Comme

Perfume is place of paradox. Historically

however, has long been left with little to

des Garçons, the limitless leaders in

fragrance held a hallowed position in

look forward to. In fact, many languages

visual and sensory risk-taking. Since its

Parfum have wasted no time in pushing perfume out of its comfort zone. Often labelled as anti-perfumes, referencing obscure inspirations from the trail of incense left by a priest at a Catholic mass, to tar, garbage and soda. Today some 75 scents exist, including their seminal collaborations with cultural icons and institutions as diverse as the Serpentine Galleries, pop star Pharrell Williams and now Russian designer de jour,

THREE TO TRY

inception in 1993, Comme des Garçons

Rubchinskiy. Although, by design they are not perfumes to be universally adored.

“My end goal isn’t always to make the perfume ‘wearable’,” says Punk Perfumer,

SÉCRÉTIONS MAGNIFIQUES BY ANTOINE LIE

Killian Wells whose most famous genderless

A controversial and sensual scent explosion, Sécrétions Magnifiques, is divisive in that it’s love or hate at first smell. Designed around human secretions of blood, sweat, and saliva, it’s an adrenaline fuelled and animalistic scent that’s certain to become a talking point.

creation, Dark Ride (2015), is a chlorineinspired scent, designed to recall the Pirates of the Caribbean log flume. “I create virtual reality fragrances capturing places and things that I’m a personal fan of. I love the challenge and payoff of faithfully capturing olfactory experiences. You could describe my work as photography for your nose - instead of a camera I’m using aroma compounds to permanently preserve memories and emotions.” Branching away from fragrances tied to particular stereotypes of class, good taste and womanhood, or winning marketing formulas, since the 1990s trailblazing perfumers like Comme des Garçons have been increasingly looking to recalibrate our scent perceptions in curious and compelling ways.

While olfactory rebels like Rubchinskiy and Wells call upon ambiguous stimuli such as skateparks, experimentation with outlandish ingredients is also becoming increasingly prevalent. Science-driven,

EL COSMICO BY D.S. & DURGA An enchanting outdoor space preserved in perfume, for this scent D.S. & Durga founders David Seth Moltz and Kavi Ahuja Moltz captured the olfactory offerings of El Cosmico, the communal campground in Marfa where guests choose to pitch their tents. The result is a scent concentrated around sumac, creosote shrubs, oak, and pinyon pine to conjure up images of a wild desert, juxtaposed with a hint of campground.

Escentric Molecules, broke new ground in 2006; the brainchild of Berlin-based Geza Schön. His cult fragrances embrace synthetic molecules unfound in nature, while Blood Concept, a niche fragrance house labels each of their perfumes according to blood type. “With rapid and constant innovation in all other industries such as healthcare and technology, consumers Main image by Martin Klimas courtesy of Somerset House.

particularly millennials, were craving a refreshing change in fragrance,” says Wells, who often composes perfumes completely from memory. “I saw this opportunity when I founded Xyrena and our mission has always been to disrupt the way consumers perceive and consume fragrance.” Long

MOLECULE 04 BY ESCENTRIC MOLECULES

left to its stagnant and structured ways,

Celebrating the pure molecule javanol - derived from sandalwood - it has subtle

we are entering into an era where perfume

woody notes designed to blend seamlessly with the natural scent of the wearer. In the other Escentric fragrances a huge amount of the molecule is used but perfumer, Geza Schön felt this would be overpowering with javanol, likening it to the delicate balance of consuming truffles. “A few slices of truffle shaved on top of your pasta are enough to transport you to heaven.”

epitomises the current phenomenon for freedom and experimentation. It’s time to rip up the rulebook and rethink the way we smell.

244

M O J EH WO M A N

BEAUTY OF

THE HEART In an exclusive interview, MOJEH delves into the world of philanthropist and model Natalia Vodianova.

Words by Antonio Nieto

Since the age of 17, philanthropist, model and occasional film

like a perfect chord – she’s also a philanthropist at heart. She

actress Natalia Vodianova has always shone in the firmament

set up the charity Naked Heart Foundation in 2004, which has

of fashion. Infamously nicknamed Supernova by photographer

more than 50 support centres around her home country for

Mario Testino, she has played muse to some of the most

families raising children with special needs, and she has often

prestigious brands in the industry during her tenure, and is

been likened to Cinderella or the Little Match Girl because of

renowned for her position as brand ambassador at Guerlain.

her rags to riches rise to fame. It is indeed tempting to make

It was the perfume house’s historic boutique framing our

the analogy when we retrace her extraordinary history, which

encounter in Paris; appropriate considering that it represents

began in the provincial town of Nizhny Novgorod in Soviet

a piece of heaven nestled in the Champs Élysées, where

Russia. She grew up experiencing the extreme privations

luxury and elegance reign supreme. The Russian beauty has

of poverty with her autistic sister and mother. It’s incredible

previously appeared in Guerlain’s iconic fragrance advert,

that such a childhood would lead to her later acceptance

The Legend of Shalimar, and will now front their new makeup

amongst the English gentry, which she achieved through

collection, Lingerie de Peau.

her first marriage to aristocrat billionaire Justin Portman, with

Meeting Natalia, who was wearing her embroidered Haute

whom she had three children. She would later unite her life

Couture dress by Dior, brought back memories of her

with Antoine Arnault, the son of Bearnard Arnault, Chairman

appearance at Valentino’s castle in 2011 during an event held

of LVMH and Christian Dior, with whom she has two sons:

on behalf of her charity foundation. She was wearing red, and

Maxim and Roman.

it was impossible not to be impressed by the perfection of that

Riding high on her extraordinary professional career, as well

colour on her figure. “I would say I like red because it is the colour

as her rich and fulfilled personal life, the beautiful Vodianova

of Naked Heart, the charity I founded in 2004. Nevertheless I

could have sat back to rest on her well-deserved laurels.

rarely wear red in my everyday life,” she reveals with a smile.

But behind her glacier-blue gaze, which has at times earned

Since her debut, Vodianova has been a consistent presence

her the reputation of being cold and uncompromising, she

on the modelling circuit, landing big-name campaigns for

actually hides a philanthropic heart that never ceases to

Louis Vuitton and Calvin Klein, in addition to various lucrative

give back the good things that life has brought to her. A

magazine covers and endorsements. In 2006, she posed for the

famous saying guides Vodianova through her life: “Mistakes

cover of Vogue Paris’s April issue, shot by shutterbug legend

are what prepares you for the victories ahead”. It is all about

Patrick Demarchelier, before appearing on the front page of

the attitude. “I do not think life is perfect, how it is not for me,

that year’s October edition. Under the watchful eye of Testino,

but I find that in these moments of imperfection, in terms of

she was beautifully photographed with her young daughter,

challenges and down moments, they are all parts of what

Neva, cradled in her arms. Modelling notwithstanding,

makes life so beautiful. We are human beings; there is so

Vodianova also designs lingerie collections for Etam and

much we do not know.”

frequently stars in the brand’s advertising campaigns, having

Perfection is not absolute, and it is not everlasting. One

done so since its inception in spring/summer09. Working

might think her life is, if not perfect, certainly easy, however

with the most important photographers in the industry didn’t

it becomes clear that Vodianova’s existence has been more

change her attitude towards the lens. “It depends on what I

than cover shoots. She candidly talks about her past and

am wearing, it makes me feel completely different. It brings

family: “When you have an imperfection, a down moment,

a different side of me out, so it is. You become someone

it is at that moment you should prove to yourself that you

or maybe it is a part of you, we all have different sides.”

can get out of it, you prove to yourself your [own] strength.

Yet Vodianova is not only beautiful – a beauty that resonates

Having a different sister was a life lesson that forged in me a

The model and philanthropist fronts Guerlain’s campaign for new makeup collection, Lingerie de Peau.

Photographed by Mr. Benjamin de Lapparent

246

determination and an almost animalistic instinct to survive.”

Loving her sister despite her condition means Vodianova never forgets the difficulties that derived from it. “An adage says that money doesn’t buy happiness. But only the rich know it, since when you are poor, you don’t have time to think about tomorrow, you have to survive, to feed yourself so you won’t die. By now, I know the saying tells the truth,” she underlines.

Vodianova considers the Naked Heart Foundation her real, everyday job. She resigned as president four years ago because of other professional and personal commitments, but she has kept fundraising and managing board relationships is her main priority. Since 2004, she has raised more than AED 168 million and built 177 playgrounds in Russian orphanages, children’s hospitals or rehabilitation institutes, and family support centres. The great paediatric psychiatrist Bruno Bettelheim would certainly approve of her work, who once wrote that, “Gaming allows the child to solve issues from his past and confront them directly or symbolically with the concerns of the moment. It is also the most appropriate tool to prepare him for duties that future life has in store for him”.

The Fabulous Fund Fair, which will be held in New York in October 2017, will help raise funds for Naked Heart. “I am persuaded that when life gives you certain advantages, it is for a purpose. We must feel this call and give back. Through these actions, that bring a little smile to these ostracised children, I found a balance and a sense in my past that I could connect with the present.”

This year, The Business of Fashion [BoF] will honour Vodianova by awarding her the Voices 2017 trophy for her exceptional career in fashion and her exemplary impact around the globe.

“The two extremes of my life, my childhood and my success, are meaningful only through my philanthropic work. This has always been guided by the fashion industry. It is through this support that I am able to raise funds and be the spokeswoman of the causes that matter to me. The industry’s environment has always been listening, it has always supported me and I am extremely grateful to it.”

previously attended. Despite her success in the film industry,

The BoF programme will celebrate her involvement in the

Vodianova doesn’t consider herself an actress. “I am not an

improvement in care of the lives of underprivileged children,

actress. The fact that I made one movie, a small role, does

and will showcase many of her other charitable actions

not make me an actress. It has been a wonderful experience

through her Elbi app, which has been produced with the

since my life is not just about modelling.”

help of Eugenia Makhlin, who has previously worked at

When we talk about the difficulty of balancing her roles as a

Google and Facebook. Elbi brings innovation to the charity

mother, an icon, and model she answers: “Well, nothing is

and philanthropy world by making donating simpler and more

easy in life. If life is easy, then you are not living it to its full

fun. “By connecting digital do-gooders with charities through

potential, that is what I think. I try to balance. My children are a

the Elbi platform we’ve so far helped 854 causes, run by 37

very important barometer for me. I believe that by working and

charities, in 88 countries across 5 continents,” the company

being a working mother, I am also giving them an important

writes on their website.

example. I am building a heritage for them, for their future.”

Despite recognition from her peers, Vodianova’s thirst for

Like every working mother, Vodianova’s work with the

moving forward and learning has never changed. In 2012

Naked Heart Foundation requires much of her time, and

she played Ariane, the main character in a film adapted from

often keeps her away from her sons. “I feel guilty about

Belle du Seigneur, a novel written by Albert Cohen, and she is

being away from them for too long, missing out on a school

also trying to get a Master’s degree in business administration

play or something like this. There are a lot of challenging

from Insead, a prestigious French university and one of the

moments but in I think I am managing it quite well, they seem

world’s leading graduate business schools, which Arnault has

to be very happy, grounded children that are proud of me.”

“When you have an imperfection, a down moment, it is at that moment you should prove to yourself that you can get out of it, you prove to yourself your own strength,” says the Guerlain ambassador

By Night: Rest & Revive by MZ Skin

All Round Care: Intense Stem Cell Booster

by Dr. Levy Switzerland

U

By Day: M Serum by 3Lab

N

D

E

R

THE SCOPE As science continues to make strides in the field of stem cell research, MOJEH explores its applications within skincare, evaluating its potential as a bridge

Images courtesy of Dr. Levy Switzerland, MZ Skincare and 3lab

between the counter and cosmetic surgery.

The skincare industry’s current state-of-play is polarised. At one

that were the first to utilise ArganCDV, a plant-derived stem cell

end of the spectrum we see surplus superfood-based products

extract, that is a key ingredient among their premium skincare

with pared back ingredients and on the other, science-driven

solutions. “Stem cells are the mother cells, the original source

formulations are striking out, making bolder claims than ever

of our organs and tissue,” he continues. “Ageing, as well as

before. Looking to science, one fascinating innovation readily

many diseases, can be traced to these cells and when they

lapped up by the beauty industry is stem cell research. Gaining

get worn out they don’t regenerate, which is a principal cause

momentum since 2011 and gradually making its way into a

of ageing. For the beauty industry, this means that the ability

myriad of applications from treatments to serums, creams

to directly target skin stem cells is the Holy Grail.” In short,

and cleansers, industry benchmarks like dermatologist, Sarah

our stem cells are the source of skin’s youth accounting for

Chapman and beauty brands such as Stemology have based

its radiance, firmness, thickness and elasticity, but when the

their entire conception around the transformative claims which

cells become older they become less productive, leading

surround stem cells. With ongoing research expanding our

to ageing with visible symptoms, such as loss of density,

understanding at an exponential rate, what we already know

dull complexion, and wrinkles becoming more apparent.

is that stem cell imparted products have the ability to naturally

“Studies have shown that UV damage and pollution cause

reverse the signs of ageing with results said to rival that of

substantial decrease in stem cell production,” adds Dr. Maryam

Botox. But do advancements in this field have the potential to

Zamani whose highly respected skincare range calls upon

bridge the gap between the beauty counter and professional

the ingredient for products such as her Restorative Placenta

cosmetic procedures?

and Stem Cell Night Serum that contain ovine placenta and

Stem cells have long been a point of fascination for the medical

stem cells to reduce wrinkles, detoxify, strengthen and repair

industry with research into human stem cells in particular,

the skin. “Adult skin heals via an inflammatory response,” she

marked as a game changer in the fight against disease.

continues, highlighting that the unique advantage plant stem

It’s important to emphasise, that in skincare, however, the

cells offer is that they protect the longevity of our own skin

vast majority of stem cells are taken from either plants or

stem cells while combating ageing.

other animals rather than from humans. Plant stem cells are

Our understanding of the beauty benefits enhanced

exceedingly potent and contain high levels of antioxidants.

by plant stem cells is still at a nascent stage, continually

Research shows that when applied to the skin, collagen and

upgrading as ongoing research continues to explore their

elastin levels are rejuvenated, displaying similar activity to that

capacity. “It’s a very exciting time for beauty and medicine

of our young human stem cells.

in general,” says Levy. “True stem cells can produce new

“Stem cells are the last frontier in science,” says Julian Levy,

cells indefinitely and could be the elixir of youth, so you

managing director at Dr. LEVY Switzerland, skincare trailblazers

can expect to hear about stem cells for decades to come.”

248

Complexion, Immaculate Liquid Powder Foundation in Sable, HOURGLASS | Lips, Lip Velvet in Fuchsia Pink, BURBERRY BEAUTY | Aqua Cream Waterproof Colour in Turquoise, MAKEUP FOREVER | Ice Queen Illuminating Lipstick, LIPSTICK QUEEN | Gloss Volume, CHANEL

THE WORLD AT NIGHT Pigmentation is amped up for fall. Metallics modernise the trend for powerful palettes while high gloss finishings seamlessly glide between the eyes and lips.

Photographed by RUI FARIA Styled by INA LEKIEWICZ Makeup by KIM BROWN

250

Complexion, Les Beiges Healthy Glow Foundation in N60, CHANEL | Blush in Beige Nude, DIOR | Eyes, Aqua Cream Waterproof Colour in Turquoise, Coral, Yellow and Fuchsia, MAKEUP FOREVER | Lips, Balm De Rose, BY TERRY Dress, MERCHANT ARCHIVE

Complexion, Les Beiges Healthy Glow Foundation in N60, CHANEL | Blush in Beige Nude, DIOR | Eyes, Aqua Cream Waterproof Colour in Turquoise, Coral, Yellow and Fuchsia, MAKEUP FOREVER | Lips, Balm De Rose, BY TERRY

Complexion, Magic Foundation in Shade 9, CHARLOTTE TILBURY | Healthy Glow Powder Blush in Nude, LIZ EARLE | Eyes, Chromaline in Primary Yellow and Process Magenta, MAC | Lips, Lip Lust Crème Lipstick in The Nude, ORIBE Top, MARQUES ALMEIDA

Complexion, Magic Foundation in Shade 9, CHARLOTTE TILBURY | Healthy Glow Powder Blush in Nude, LIZ EARLE | Eyes, Chromaline in Primary Yellow and Process Magenta, MAC | Lips, Lip Lust Crème Lipstick in The Nude, ORIBE Dress, choker, ring and earrings, DIOR

254

Complexion, Magic Foundation in Shade 9, CHARLOTTE TILBURY | Cheek Colour in Inhibition, TOM FORD | Eyes, Pigment in Pure White, MAC | Lips, Audacious Lipstick in Anita, NARS Dress, bracelets and earrings, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

Complexion, Double Wear Stay-In-Place Foundation Makeup in 4C2 Auburn, ESTÉE LAUDER | Ready Blush in The Confession, BARE MINERALS | Eyes, Pigment in Pink Pearl and Pure White, MAC | Lips, Kissing Lipstick in Stoned Rose, CHARLOTTE TILBURY Jacket, LOUIS VUITTON

Complexion, Immaculate Liquid Powder Foundation in Sable, HOURGLASS | Eyes, Beauty Les Yeux Noirs Lash Amplifying Lacquer in Khol, CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN | Lips, Lip Velvet in Fuchsia Pink, BURBERRY BEAUTY | Aqua Cream Waterproof Colour in Turquoise, MAKEUP FOREVER | Ice Queen Illuminating Lipstick, LIPSTICK QUEEN | Gloss Volume, CHANEL Jumper, BALENCIAGA @brownsfashion

Complexion, Luminous Silk Foundation in 8.5, GIORGIO ARMANI | Beach Stick in Formentera, CHARLOTTE TILBURY | Eyes, Powder Glitter Eyeshadow in Maiden, ILLAMASQUA | Pigment in Pure White, MAC | Aqua Cream Waterproof Colour in Coral, MAKEUP FOREVER | Lips, Rouge Volupté Shine in Rose Saharienne, YSL Dress, CHLOÉ @netaporter | top, ALAÏA | ring and earrings, DIOR

Model: Eliza Fairbanks at Established Models Hair stylist: Tracie Cant Manicurist: Zarra Celik Art director: Liam S. Gleeson Styling assistant: Kinga Wojciechowska Photography assistant: Thomas Gonsard Digital operator: Jakub Gessler Casting director: Paul Isaac Location: Trackside Studio, London With special thanks to Leica Cameras

258

M O J EH TR AV EL

S PA N I S H SOLILOQUIES

Renowned accessories designer, Nathalie Trad, recounts her summer adventures within Northern Spain’s idyllic scenery and hidden recesses to MOJEH.

I’ve always said that my favourite destination is my next destination,

every three days. I was very conscious of not packing too much

as I make it a habit to constantly travel to somewhere I haven’t been

as were going to be moving around a lot, and wanted my options

before. Every year, my husband Bassem and I escape the heat of

to be as light and as easy [to wear] as possible. I packed some of

Dubai for a few weeks and celebrate our wedding anniversary. This

my clutches, J Brand shorts, Reformation t-shirts, Osman trousers,

summer we decided to trip around the North of Spain. I’d visited

Kiini swimwear, as well as floaty dresses including a dreamy white

the South of Spain on a school excursion when I was 16 and had

piece by Saloni and sandals - all really simple but chic. However,

such fond memories of it – since then I’ve been very keen to return.

it was a little bit cooler in Asturias [than I had anticipated] and I

Bassem and I love the Spanish dialect and have been learning it for

found myself wishing [that] I’d packed some jeans.

a while, so we wanted to put our knowledge to the test and better

Our trip began with a flight from Dubai to Madrid, which was followed

acquaint ourselves with the language, while immersing ourselves

by an internal connecting flight onto Ibiza. Once there, we rented

in different cities and places.

a car which gave us the freedom to do things at our own pace

Some of my Spanish friends recommended places in the North

and stop wherever and whenever we wanted to. I’d always heard

for us to visit, so we looked at the map, compared it against the

so much about Ibiza and there’s a lot of mixed reviews, so I was

time frame we had and just went for it, moving on to a new place

a little bit apprehensive, but I actually fell in love with the Northern part of it, which was a lot calmer than the main tourist spots. [It’s] a little bit bohemian and had stunning scenery and beaches that I wasn’t expecting to see. We stayed in a little house called the Giri

Nathalie soaks in the sights of Ibiza

Residence. It just has five suites and is tucked away nicely in San Juan, so it’s far enough removed from all the craziness. They also have a gorgeous café next door that uses organic food grown in their own garden, which is a special touch. I love staying in little boutique places as they have so much more character and charm, and the people that run them are incredibly hospitable and warm.

Images courtesy of Nathalie Trad , Photographed by VW Pics and Bloomberg at Getty, Interview by Mary Keenan

One of Nathalie’s iconic clutch bags blends into the landscape at Asturias

Fresh fish and vegetables at La Granja

260

From there, we flew to Barcelona and walked the entire city! The

holiday that included a mix of blues, jazz and old rock. We also

Gaudi buildings and architecture are fantastic, as are the vividly

wanted to listen to the radio too so we could get a feel for what

coloured tiles and mosaics you see everywhere. It made a nice

people in Spain were listening to, but we were surprised to find there

change from spending days roaming the air-conditioned malls of

were a lot of English stations, which almost defeated the purpose.

Dubai. A few days later we flew on to San Sebastián and spent a

I was also on GPS duty, so sometimes the tunes had to take a

day and a half there covering its hotspots. It’s one of the most well-

backseat. The nature in Asturias was mind-blowing, I’ve never seen

known gourmet cities in Europe, and has the biggest concentration

such beautiful nature - and such long stretches of it - before. It’s

of Michelin star restaurants in Spain, so we took advantage of that

so good for your body and mind to be surrounded by mountains

and indulged in many different delicacies by opting to order the

and fresh air. We took advantage of our time by going up to the

special of the day and fresh seafood wherever possible.

Picos de Europa National Park and trekking the mountains there,

Next up, we drove from there to Asturias, which takes about four

it truly was unreal. We stayed in another lovely boutique hotel,

hours. The entire road was flanked by nature and greenery that

Puebloastur – in a wonderful little town called Cofiño, which was

was unlike anything I’ve ever seen before. We made plenty of stops

central to both the mountains and the beaches. I could have quite

along the way for food and to soak it all in. A good soundtrack is

easily spent the rest of my life there sat on a terrace taking in the

one of the most important components of a road trip as far as I’m

views and appreciating the nature.

concerned, so I had some playlists I’d made before we went on

We finished off our trip with two days in Madrid, before flying back

to Dubai. I was really surprised by the city- I thought I would have [had] more of an inclination towards Barcelona, but when we got there I found it really touristy and packed, whereas Madrid for me had a bit more [of an] allure and culture. It was wonderful to simply stroll the streets and pop into museums.

If I could recommend one experience from our trip, it would have to be discovering the nature in Asturias. I feel it’s really under the radar as far as attractions go. We spent three days there, but honestly, you really need a week, there’s so much to see, do and experience. It’s not very lively in terms of nightlife, but the scenery makes up for that. It’s picture perfect.

Bassem and I aren’t big planners when it comes to travel. We only decided on this trip a few weeks before we went, and left parts of it completely unplanned for when we got there. I think it’s important to keep things fluid and see how we feel, which usually works to our advantage. We have a few must-visit destinations on our bucket list, but we really don’t know which ones [we’ll go to] next. I really want to go to Morocco, New Zealand, Australia, and Japan, so any of those could be next. When you travel, you’re always pleasantly surprised by how rich and incredible the world is- I definitely have the itch now and can’t wait for my next trip.

NORTHERN SPAIN BY NUMBERS Facade of the Casa Batllo in Barcelona

07 hours 50 minutes - Dubai to Madrid 01 hour 15 minutes - Madrid to Ibiza 7 days – to explore Asturias 5 cities – Madrid, Barcelona, Ibiza, San Sebastian, Asturias

DINE BY CITY MADRID Ana la Santa, Cuisine: Tapas La Cocina de San Antón, Cuisine: Tapas

BARCELONA Gallito, Cuisine: Mediterranean Céleri, Cuisine: Catalan

A picturesque outdoor setting at La Granja

IBIZA La Granja, Cuisine: Mediterranean

SAN SEBASTIÁN Alkelarre (3 Michelin Star), Cuisine: Basque

ASTURIAS The Halcón Gourmet, Cuisine: Asturian

ADDRESS BOOK Stay: The Giri Residence, Ibiza Walk: Picos de Europa National Park, Asturias Experience: A stunning beachside sunset, Ibiza

An outdoor terrace at The Giri Residence

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M O J EH TR AV EL

OUT OF OFFICE As freelancing becomes the new norm and ideas about office structures rapidly reshape to accommodate this shift, MOJEH examines the rise of the digital nomad.

Words by Laura Beaney

City Lines photographed by Mazen Abusrour in MOJEH issue 33

Images courtesy of Roam and Pomalo Travel

Moving away from the traditional constraints of office spaces, location is becoming less and less critical to career efficiency and success

“Anyone who ever slept aboard a boat understands the calming

photojournalist and tech entrepreneur, Jonathan Kalan made his

feeling of waking up to the rocking of the water,” wrote Mona Khalil

living documenting the front lines of conflict. Together with Michael

and Rana Dababneh on their blog, Holidays in Heels. This week,

Youngblood, a fellow entrepreneur who made his mark on the

the duo, also founders of luxury travel provider, Pomalo, call their

media industry with his concepts such as Innovations Stories, Kalan

office the Adriatic Jazz, a boat they’ve chartered to cruise the

founded Unsettled. Their vision was a community inspired not only

splendid sapphire seas off the Dalmatian Coast for the week, and

by their professional experiences but also those of their friends who

thankfully the vessel comes with high-speed internet so it’s business

were designers, developers, explorers and entrepreneurs.

as usual. Part of a new breed of digital nomads who embrace the

At its crux, Unsettled is a 30-day working retreat that could take

idea that technology can facilitate work from wherever you are -

place in just about anywhere from Medellín to Barcelona, Cape Town

Pomalo gives the pair the perfect excuse to experience the world

or Bali. More than just an exotic location with strong connectivity,

while maintaining their business and family duties.

the prospect entices a myriad of mindsets with ages ranging from

“Although we don’t believe that working remotely is good the whole

22 – 70 and nationalities spanning 40 countries. “We have a lot

time, and is not for everyone, there’s no denying that the corporate

of applicants from Dubai, which is known to be a transient city,”

office is disappearing,” muses Khalil. And she’s right. In the US, for

shares Kalan. “This includes advertising professionals, those in

example, freelancing is considered to be the new norm with more than

publishing and workers from places like d3 as well as investors

53 million Americans (30 per cent) classifying themselves as such,

and those with flexible schedules.”

according to a new, landmark survey conducted by independent

Unsettled claims it’s for those who embrace uncertainty and value

researchers, Edelman Berland. Their prediction is that this figure

meaningful human interaction. What makes their retreats particularly

will reach an astounding 50 per cent, or even higher by 2035.

alluring is that they offer more than just office facilities with

In the past, business travel was a flight-in-flight-out agenda but

picturesque surroundings- there’s a chance for idea sharing, and

these days the business traveller embraces the opportunity for

progression that might not be possible in the traditional workspace.

adventure. Referring to this growing sector as ‘bleisure’, data

“A day can conclude with a dinner shared between an Italian lawyer,

compiled by Skift Megatrends in 2016 highlighted that nearly all

a US pilot, and a European architect who get together and share

Virgin Atlantic international business travellers (99.5 per cent) look

ideas and experiences which acts as a catalyst for new and exciting

forward to business trips while 96 per cent believe they gain cultural

projects,” says Kalan. Channelling a feeling we all encounter, his

experience and knowledge. Feeding into this trend, tour providers

company takes a negative sentiment and reimagines a state of

have begun to tap into the leisure time of business travellers, but

unsettlement in a positive light. Kalan maintains that at times of

what if the two were to completely merge? If there’s a chance to be

transition, travel, and movement we feel most alive, inspired, and

paid for producing content off the coast of Croatia like Dababneh

receptive to the people and ideas that spark growth. To ensure

and Khalil, then it seems to be a no-brainer.

a progressive dynamic, each guest is personally interviewed and

For freelancers a lifestyle calibrating travel with earning makes

vetted by the company to ensure their persona and work ethic is

perfect sense, nomadic by nature and coming from a career

in line with its ethos.

background that shirked structure of any kind, award-winning

One might expect occupants to operate the highly flexible schedule

264 of a freelancer but, interestingly, it was those who were already

software like Dropbox and Whatsapp are the most popular remote

established in their careers that first stayed with Unsettled. “We

working tools, while Google Drive, Skype, Team Viewer, and Google

actually began with young professionals looking for somewhere

Hangouts also play a fundamental part in remote operations.

beautiful to work from. Later, we found we were attracting people

For some, a 30-day working retreat isn’t feasible, but increasingly

at a transitional point in their lives – those looking for immersive

careers require us to adapt and set up office for short periods

experiences rooted in community, productivity and growth. They

of time in distant locales. “As new companies enter this space,

were looking to live, and grow in a destination, not just take a

it’s become increasingly easy to find efficient working spaces in

holiday and came to Unsettled to figure out the next steps in their

new cities,” says David Hay who recently launched Spacegrab, a

personal lives or career.”

marketplace for commercial real estate subleasing. “Companies

Unsettled is one of many new work-tourism providers that cater

like PivotDesk and LiquidSpace allow for on-demand workstations

to the rise of digital nomads, and at the heart of their success is

where individuals can work in a conducive environment.” The

technology and accessibility. Today, the internet connection is as

shared spaces Hay describes are old news among the business

strong in Buenos Aires as it is in New York, according to Kalan who

communities that frequent the US and Europe, but they’re a new

rigorously tests net speeds, preparing his handpicked partners for

and rapidly growing phenomenon for the Middle East. Inspired by

the duress of 30 people using it simultaneously. “But you can never

His Highness Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid al Maktoum, Vice

account for a power outage caused by a rogue elephant collapsing

President and Prime Minister of the UAE and Ruler of Dubai, Flow

cables in Bali,” he jokes. According to workspace provider, Regus,

is a concept, designed to let Dubai’s youth connect, create and

Mona Khalil and Rana Dababneh are part of the new generation who adapt to the digital nomad lifestyle to maintain a healthy work-family balance

As well as plush and productive working spaces Roam offer their guests everything from Pecha Kucha nights to pop-up dinners with up-and-coming chefs and weekends away on the beach

converse. Centred around cultivating a positive mind through design and diet, the organic cuisine is served amidst invigorating interiors.

But more than just a café, it’s an open workspace hosting round table discussion events, and of course, USB connections and

WHERE TO WORK FROM AFAR

strong, free Wi-Fi to seamlessly facilitate workflow. “Flow has been

Unsettled: One of the pioneers in this field, Unsettled offer 30-day

created by youth for youth as a destination to connect and lead the

coworking retreats in compelling locations including Bali, Colombia,

movement towards a more productive lifestyle,” says Emmanuele

South Africa and Spain. They offer everything you need to be

Fiorito, restaurant manager. “It’s a well-known fact that people

functional while exploring an exciting destination including private

are more productive when they’re happy and here, people form

accommodation, shared workspaces, local guides, pre-planned

connections and can bounce ideas off each other.”

events, and an immersive community experience.

Today, companies and individuals are increasingly open to new

Roam: Offering a plethora of plush and peaceful spaces and

ways of working, but there are still questions regarding trust and

critically, battle tested WI-FI, Roam is a network of global coliving

coordination. Working remotely can also be an isolating experience,

spaces that spans from San Francisco to London, Tokyo and Miami.

so as the manager of a team of freelancers operating in conflicting

Their expansive coworking spaces comfortably support a large,

time zones, how do you ensure your employees are immersed in

diverse community with gathering spots for events, meetings and

the company culture? “Your superior might not know that you’re

classes, as well as a chef’s kitchen.

working on a particular task and team members might not know the exact responsibilities of one another,” considers Khalil. “Plus when do you actually stop working?”

CLOSE TO HOME

Irrespective of drawbacks, growth in co-working is exploding.

Rove, Dubai: Rove’s quirky and contemporary spaces provide the

Millennials are the generation of ‘me, myself, and I’ demanding

prefect platform for an inspired working day. The Dubai born-and-

increasingly flexible work schedules, while Generation Z, our next

bred concept includes event spaces that feature meeting rooms,

workforce, are already displaying characteristics of privacy, multi-

theatres and DIY conference room set-ups to cater to any business

tasking and reliance upon technology. If employers hope to survive

need. While their café, The Daily, offers light and healthy dishes

these new trends and attract the talent they desire they will have

served in an airy and stimulating space surrounded with power

to have to address these tendencies towards personalisation and

points and powerful WIFI.

flexibility, offering a combination of office and remote working

Flow, Dubai: Part of the exciting new-wave of home-grown

arrangements. “In the future we will look at how can we tap into

brands entering into Dubai, Flow features a dynamic combination

different parts of people’s lives at different times,” says Kalan. “We

of stimulating design, carefully sourced healthy, and organic cuisine,

will look to shorter, more intimate incubator experiences and consider

artisan coffee and at the core of their concept is the idea of creating

what people really need. Not just travel but community. People are

mind flow. Their open workspaces include power outlets, USB

looking to work, play, adventure and communicate simultaneously.”

connections, WIFI and space for meetings.

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M O J EH W O M A N

ANOTHER GENERATION In the Middle East, heirs and heiresses are making privilege count.

MOJEH surveys the next generation of the world’s greatest fortunes.

Words by Annie Darling

Amidst the thick of a weather-beaten era that’s seen the economy falter and populism fester, an au courant generation of silver-spoon heiresses have emerged with 24-karat ancestry and an inherited bank balance to match. Some, like American businesswoman and first daughter Ivanka Trump, choose to expand their family’s business, while others, such as Georgina Bloomberg, daughter of billionaire media mogul Michael Bloomberg, pursue success in areas of their own choosing.

Either way, today’s gilded youth often surpass their pedigree legacy, with many plunging into philanthropy or launching their own corporate enterprise. Contemporaries scramble to seek out the secrets, and the chinks in armour, of those who are raised rich and famous; the next generation, it certainly seems, is determined to make a positive contribution to society. And while many are more than happy to follow in their ancestors’ footsteps, most hope to carve out an identity of their own, separate to that of their family’s.

Holly Branson, for example, daughter to legendary daredevil Sir Richard Branson, worked as a doctor in the neurology department of Chelsea and Westminster Hospital before joining her father’s Virgin Group empire. Delphine Arnault, director and executive vice president of the Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy Group (LVMH), is widely considered the driving force behind her father’s company’s most profitable investments.

And Ann Getty, whose father was once the Guinness Book of World Records’ richest private citizen alive, has spearheaded many of the dynasty’s non-profit entities.

“I have no interest in going out on my own,” Ivanka Trump told Vanity Fair in a 2009 interview. “My dream is to continue to build on the foundation my father and his father built through the Trump Organisation, and hopefully have my kids do the same.” That being said, the former runway model – who is currently an official advisor to the White House – has launched her own jewellery line and enjoyed a fruitful writing career while simultaneously supporting her father’s real estate endeavours. Measuring up to one’s family name can be daunting, and wise parents give their children career freedom.

Thus it appears that the antiquated preconception that wellborn persons lack the spark of want that sends others scurrying to the office is both unfair and untrue. While some succumb to idleness, most are escaping this pitfall and decide, instead, to lead productive lives. Female entrepreneurs, such as fashion heiress Margherita Maccapani Missoni and Princess Elisabeth von Thurn und Taxis, are not only matching their male counterparts but often outperforming them, according to the 2016 BNP Paribas Global Entrepreneur Report.

Here, MOJEH meets the region’s champions who are working harder than ever to win respect and credibility.

Standing among her sculptural cushion set, entitled Wisada, Ayah wears a bruised-peach dress with waterfall skirt by Chantel Design and beige heels by Chanel

AYAH AL BITAR Ayah Al Bitar studied at Parsons, the New School for Design in New York City before launching her own design house, AYA The Art of Living, here in the Middle East.

“Running a company comes with many challenges that are unexpected and meant to be dealt with very diplomatically,” she tells MOJEH, which is made easier thanks to her family’s “knowledge and guidance”. “My father is a successful businessman who started his work from scratch at the age of 25 in Saudi Arabia.” It was he who financially supported her first collection of floor seating cushions in May 2015, which merge Eastern tradition with Western modernity. A fierce advocate for gender equality, she hopes to see an increase in the number of female role models in the region. “A lot is already being done,” she agrees, “but there needs to

Photographed by Ziga at The Factory. Special thanks to Shangri-La Hotel, Dubai

be a shift towards good quality rather than quantity.”

268

Fatima, founder of The Gracious F, wears a deep purple dress by Issey Miyake with a blue-mottled abaya by Annada, a Chanel necklace, a Vhernier ring and a timepiece by Bulgari

FATIMA AL SHIRAWI “I was privileged to grow up in the United Arab Emirates, surrounded by successful and influential women whose stories have not only inspired me to become an entrepreneur, but have influenced others as well.” Fatima Al Shirawi explains that her colour consultation company, The Gracious F, became a reality because of her encouraging parents. After her mother sadly passed away, Al Shirawi’s “support father” worked tirelessly to offer her innumerable opportunities. “From a young age, I wanted to establish myself outside my family heritage,” which was difficult to do considering her mother descended from the influential Al Kazim household and her grandfather was accountant to Sheikh Saeed bin Hasher Al Maktoum. “The Middle East has a rich cultural heritage and I have always admired the integrity and modesty of our people. We care about helping others and work hand-in-hand to improve each other’s business outlook.”

SHEIKHA FATIMA AL SABAH Granddaughter of Sheikh Salem Al-Ali Al-Sabah, the most senior serving member of the ruling family in Kuwait, Sheikha Fatima unveiled Prismologie, a luxurious body care range in 2015, in partnership with her mother, Sheikha Intisar. “My inspiration has always been the strength and determination in women, no matter where they are from or what they do,” she reveals. “I am blessed to have been raised by a wonderful family, and to have been born to and raised by an inspirational and strong mother, who showed me from a very young age that being passionate and pursuing a dream is always possible.” In addition to Prismologie, Al Sabah has enjoyed a

Fatima, photographed by Julia at The Factory and Sheikha Fatima, photographed by Khaled Al Saleh

Kuwaiti royal Sheikha Fatima, pictured here wearing a delicate necklace by MEOh-ME, launched her luxurious body care range Prismologie, alongside her mother, in 2015

successful career in philanthropy. Her desire to promote the welfare of others led to her being appointed vice chairperson and executive director of Kuwait’s first legally recognised and registered animal welfare society, the Kuwait Society for the Protection of Animals and Their Habitat.

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M O J EH NEW S

O’Keeffe, Preston, Cossington Smith: Making Modernism Until October 2 The worlds of Georgia O’Keeffe, Margaret Preston and Grace Cossington Smith are championed in a captivating new way as this exhibition shows their take on the transformative decades during the early 20th Century. Denying the artistic conventions of the past, these three female artists were known as the trailblazers of their time, proposing a shared modernist vision that looked to previously unseen combinations of vivid colours, bright light, and vitality perpetuating a new sense of optimism. This retrospective draws together 30 paintings by each artist, including the largest collection of O’Keeffe’s work to ever visit Australia.

Art Gallery of New South Wales, Sydney, Australia

CULTURE COMING As summer’s outdoor soirees and foreign excursions chivalrously retreat for another year, we welcome in the new season’s cultural quotient, brimming with a myriad of exhibitions, festivals, and events to while away the shorter days.

Andy Warhol. Polaroids 1958 - 1987. New book release The restless chronicler of contemporary life and all its interactions, Andy Warhol was armed with a Polaroid camera from the late 1950s until his death (1987). During these decades he amassed a sizeable collection of instant photographs which included friends, partners, and patrons, spanning the famous to the obscure, as well as himself. Created in collaboration with the Andy Warhol Foundation, this book features hundreds of these photos, with notable portraits of famed faces such as Mick Jagger, Alfred Hitchcock, Jack Nicholson, Yves Saint Laurent, Pelé, and Debbie Harry.

NOWPLAYING by Cinema Akil and Alserkal Avenue Until September 30 Concluding a season of independent cinema screenings that have included highlights such as Twin Peaks: Fire Walk With Me, and Eleanor Coppola’s directorial and screenwriting debut, Paris Can Wait, Nowplaying by Cinema Akil and Alserkal Avenue presents arthouse, independent, repertory and alternative cinema at Warehouse 68. The entrance fee at the door will go towards supporting independent cinema programming in the city. The space is open daily from 6 p.m. with screenings starting at 7 p.m.

Alserkal Avenue, Dubai, UAE

Picasso. On the Beach August 26 – January 8, 2018 Known to be one of Peggy Guggenheim’s favourite pieces

by Picasso, On the Beach (La Baignade) becomes the focal point of a new exhibit in her namesake, Venice museum. Though relatively small, offering only 10 drawings, three paintings and one sculpture by the

Images courtesy of Art Gallery of New South Wales, Taschen, Alserkal Avenue, Peggy Guggenheim Collection and Royal Academy London

acclaimed artist, the exhibition will highlight the inspiration Picasso drew from his seaside surroundings. Picasso.

On the Beach is explored in collaboration with the Musée National de Picasso in Paris as part of a wider cultural programme examining the Mediterranean preoccupations in the esteemed artist’s work.

Peggy Guggenheim Collection, Venice, Italy

Matisse in the Studio August 5 – November 12 While two world wars raged on outside, the studio of Henri Matisse remained a beautiful, safe haven for the celebrated artist. This compelling, and surprisingly personal exhibition, offers us insight into Matisse’s natural habitat and mind firsthand, as the countless objects that served as his personal muses are showcased. Taken from his travels, visits to antique shops and far-flung markets, the 35 objects that make up this telling collection include African masks, a Roman torso, Chinese porcelains and North African textiles, which are further enhanced by 65 momentous artworks, revealing the numerous mediums that the artist explored, from painting and sculpture, to sketches and his famed gouache cut-outs.

Royal Academy, London, UK

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A RT IS T IN EX H I BIT ION

DARING NATURE A longtime patron of the arts, Swiss watchmaker Audemars Piguet teams up with Chilean-born artist Sebastian Errazuriz for a woodland-themed display, which was showcased at Art Basel 2017.

Sebastian Errazuriz has an easy-to-understand love for Vallée de Joux, Switzerland. For its deep-seated valleys; for its vast stretches of lake; and for its uninhabited wilderness that has inspired his

The Swiss watchmaking brand’s Le Brassus factory is a place where tradition and innovation have come together for over a century

latest sculpture, Second Nature, which was devised at the request of Audemars Piguet. Since 1875, the luxury Swiss watchmaker has continually explored the often obscure relationship between the worlds of art and horology, from its cutting-edge factory that’s sleepily sat in the small village of Le Brassus, nestled deep within Vallée de Joux.

“First and foremost, the effort is to make a meaningful and significant contribution to the art worlds, and also for us to be transformed by the art world at the same time,” says Michael Freeman, a historian speaking on behalf of Audemars Piguet.

“We begin with the premise that watches themselves are cultural objects that were created by artists,” he tells MOJEH. “Where does art, where does technology, where does artisanship all come together? These are the types of themes we like to explore.”

For the second consecutive year, Audemars Piguet have collaborated with Errazuriz, a Chilean-born artist and sculptor,

Le Brassus’s enormous Alpine lakes and mountainous landscape provided inspiration for Audemars Piguet’s exhibit

who designed a sumptuous lounge celebrating the brand’s heritage at this year’s edition of Art Basel. The folkloric space reflected the handsome forests that dominate the watchmaker’s storied hometown, and showcased Errazuriz’s Second Nature – an extravagant wooden sculpture of a crooked tree. “I wanted to create a tree that could act as a homage to the watchmakers,” the New York-based artist divulges to MOJEH, his eyes thoughtfully The atmospheric and dimly lit showcase is strangely dramatic, with heavy charcoal-coloured surfaces interrupted by numerous spotlights that illuminate a carefully selected collection of Audemars Piguet’s extraordinary timepieces. Second Nature takes centre stage; the tree’s twisted branches coil sideways, like squirming

Words by Annie Darling

flickering to the grandiose piece.

Chilean-born artist and designer Sebastian Errazuriz designed Audemars Piguet’s latest collector’s lounge for Art Basel 2017

tentacles grabbling with some unknown treasure. Designed to

“It is always a great inspiration to work with artists who understand

evolve with the seasons, the artwork depicts the watchmaker’s

our core values and who are able to creatively translate them

growth and innovation while its roots represent tradition; Audemars

through their own point of view,” says Olivier Audemars,

Piguet is the oldest Haute Horlogerie manufacturer still in the

vice president of the board of directors at Audemars Piguet.

hands of its founding families.

Multidisciplinary artist Lars Jan has been selected to create the

“The tree isn’t a traditional straight tree, but instead the kind you’d

brand’s next art commission at Art Basel Miami 2017. “The watch

see on the top of a hillside, where the wind has been hitting it

practice to me is quite an artistic one,” he contemplates. “A great

constantly over the years. There’s a mix – its DNA has wanted it

deal of aesthetic consideration goes into the interior of a watch,

to grow upwards, but its circumstances have pushed it down into

which will, in fact, never be seen by the user. That’s something

its final shape.” Carving the physical model was time-consuming

that resonates with me very strongly, because 90 per cent of what

and included an element of technical complexity that mirrors the

I do as an artist will not be perceived.”

craftsmanship and advanced mechanics inherent to watchmaking.

For Jan and Errazuriz, who at the age of 28 became the second

“If you look at the mechanism of a watch,” explains Errazuriz,

living artist to have a work auctioned at Sotheby’s, this creative

glancing down at his own wrist, “all those little bits and pieces

excellence and technical mastery can only be achieved with

that move and connect to make it work weren’t designed by

unwavering commitment. Errazuriz travelled numerous times to

one single person.” Art and timepieces are also similar, he adds,

Vallée de Joux to ensure his sculpture accurately captures the

because they’ve both become a self-indulgent luxury. “We no

essence of both the brand and region. “Why the hell would you

longer need watches,” he insists. “The function of a watch has

want to be making watches by hand in a little valley in Switzerland?”

lost its protagonism. They’re now objects of status, melancholic

Errazuriz asks, in total disbelief. “It’s insane,” he chuckles,

reminders of other eras – they’re exhibitors of ingenuity.”

“nonetheless it’s done. It’s done out of love, and out of passion.”

274

Images courtesy of the artist and The Third Line, Dubai

A RT IS T IN R ES I DE NC E

Search (Five Steps), 2016. Hayv Kahraman. Oil on linen, 223.5 x 101.6 cm

NAVIGATING C

H

A

O

S

Using her own experiences during the Gulf War as an artistic backdrop, Los Angeles-based Iraqi artist Hayv Kahraman explores how women are frequently victimised in regions that are dominated by conflict.

Words by Annie Darling

The remarkable fragility and tenderness interwoven into

Her drawings, paintings and sculptures, while resplendent,

Hayv Kahraman’s raw linen creations are as enchanting

are ruthless and frequently challenge issues surrounding how

as they are saddening. Her collections often depict near

women are regularly victimised and made subservient to men

identical women with blanched complexions and listless,

within their own culture. Her thought-provoking creations

yet graceful, gestures that arouse images of Renaissance

have subsequently been featured in various international

decorative arts and the powder-dusted geishas from decadent

collections including the American Embassy, Baghdad;

Japanese woodblocks. Their sentient movements and

Barjeel Art Foundation, Sharjah; Rubell Family Collection,

emotive expressions resemble a worn marionette, wearied

Miami; and the Saatchi Gallery, London. “I am a product of

but stable. Charcoal-clouded tresses and sunken almond-

shifting political tides that have produced a new generation

shaped eyes are coupled with scarlet-flushed lips. Shapely,

of diasporic people,” she explains. “Not unlike my fellow

but floundering, each silhouette is strangely absent yet

collective immigrants I, too, am haunted by the idea of

simultaneously steadfast, while carefully made punctures

an imagined past frequently interjecting into my present.”

simulate the menacing attack of a knife’s edge.

Born in Baghdad, Iraq, an 11-year-old Kahraman travelled

“I choose to use formal references to the Renaissance as a

with her family to Sweden in the early Nineties towards the end

tool into the work,” Kahraman tells MOJEH. “Our eyes are

of the Gulf War, and her artwork courageously inspects the

so accustomed to seeing that aesthetic and believing it to

unseen spaces between Western and Middle Eastern culture.

be ‘beautiful’,” she explains. “For me, that acts as an avenue

“Myself, my persona, is not that of an Iraqi,” she explains. “It’s

to draw attention to harsher subject matter that might not

rather a border dweller haunted by problematics of place,

be comfortable to look at were it presented in a didactic

war, and an imaginary past.” The fragility of one’s memory

environment.” Kahraman’s collections consist of linen, wood

fascinates Kahraman, and she looks for ways to explore her

and paper and, somewhat ironically, beautifully narrate the

subconsciousness. Although this unforgiving self-reflection

violence and trauma that’s connected to her past as an

generates questions, Kahraman doesn’t always attempt to

immigrant. “I don’t make work to change people’s minds,” she

find answers. “What becomes important is that the work is

says in earnest, when asked about the political undercurrents

about the question,” she insists, “and getting to the question.”

that ride her art’s riptide. “I don’t feel that I have the authority

As painful as it is, flashbacks from her home country –

for that. I make work that reflects my reality and, of course,

Saddam Hussein’s Iraq – as well as her turbulent teenage

it becomes political in that sense.”

years in Europe, form a personal bullseye for Kahraman’s

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Get Directions (Left), 2016. Hayv Kahraman. Oil on linen, 89 x 89 cm Get Directions (Straight), 2016. Hayv Kahraman. Oil on linen, 89 x 89 cm

Get Directions (Back), 2016. Hayv Kahraman. Oil on linen, 89 x 89 cm Get Directions (Right), 2016. Hayv Kahraman. Oil on linen, 89 x 89 cm

278

A past that I cherish, because I lost it.” And although her family left the Middle East in search for a better life, unfortunately for Kahraman, further hardships were yet to come.

“I’ve had a rather nomadic lifestyle,” she acknowledges.

“Nothing that’s uncommon today, but the first migration ‘stop’ was the most influential; fleeing Iraq to Sweden.” Kahraman experienced discrimination and bigotry whilst in Stockholm.

“There’s an automatic denigration to a second-class citizen every single day,” she remembers with bitterness. “You’re judged by the colour of your skin and hair before you even utter a word.” Speaking about her past, it’s as though her artwork, which is both intimate and emotive, is spearheaded by her thirst to recover her stolen childhood and that, by doing so, she hopes to rewrite her own memoir.

One of the most important figures in contemporary postcolonial studies, Homi J. Bhabha places significant emphasis Top: Untitled, 2016. Hayv Kahraman. Oil on linen, 14 x 18 inches Next page: Untitled, 2017.

Hayv Kahraman. Oil on linen mounted on panel, 50.5 x 44 inches

ingenuity. Her Audible Inaudible collection was presented

on a person’s initial encounter with an alien land. Kahraman,

last year at The Third Line in Dubai, as part of the artist’s

who currently lives in Los Angeles having moved to the

fourth solo show in the region. She revisited the trauma of

United States 10 years ago, heartily relates to Bhabha’s

association with the sounding of a siren, an audible imprint

philosophy after her challenging time living in Sweden. “There

that continues to trigger the same sense of terror that she

are many hindrances refugees face once they land in their

experienced as a child. “I remember clinging to my mother

host country,” she points out, “and as I look back at my work

in the basement of my uncle’s house in Sulaymaniyah in

and its connection to that subject, the common thread that

Northern Iraq,” she recalls. “I remember my relatives curled

makes it to the surface is that of repair, and a negation and

around candles, waiting for the loud noises outside to stop.”

rejection to erasure.”

In the series’ earlier stages, Kahraman heard about an Iraqi

Kahraman recalls the origins of her own displacement,

woman who shielded her children from the deafening siren’s

which began when her mother decided to hire a trafficker

sound by holding them tight and pressing her arms against their

to smuggle their family out of Iraq. “We had fake passports

ears. She takes this concept and adapts it into her collection by

and took a route that involved multiple stops by aeroplane.

incorporating acoustic foam into each painting. “These howling

Sana’a, in Yemen, was one of them – that lasted a month,”

sounds shook me to the very core,” she recalls, “yet they were

she remembers. “After we landed in Stockholm, Arlanda

a part of my childhood. Now they serve as a memory that both

[Kahraman’s mother] ushered us into the bathroom before

jolts me to the ground and reminds me of my vulnerable past.

reaching security and we flushed our passports down the

toilet. That day my new life as a refugee began.” Although

To overcome this alienation, Kahraman’s protagonist in each

Kahraman’s artwork is extremely personal, it also offers

painting is a stylised image of herself. “My work is semi-

admirers multifaceted contemplation of gender politics in the

autobiographical and the female character is shaped using

modern world. She counteracts the darkness of her themes

my own body as reference,” she confirms, before adding

with the delicacy and grace of her ultra-feminine style, which

that clashing Eastern and Western perspectives of women

borrows from the traditions of Persian miniatures.

conjures its own difficulties. “Why use white women to talk

“In this yearning to connect to a lost past, I have researched

about brown skin?” She asks as an example, conceding that

various historical aesthetics from the Middle East,” she

at times she’s questioned: “Whether this reinforces whiteness

reveals to MOJEH, “from tessellated Islamic pattern and the

as apposed to challenging it.”

figures and calligraphy in Maqamat al-Hariri to the traditional

Such apprehension and caution can only be expected,

handheld fans made out of palm tree fronds in Iraq.” Such

considering Kahraman’s intimate connection with each

inspirations are a way for Kahraman to reconnect to her

creation, and such consideration is rewarded when there’s

homeland. “These practices have become avenues to not only

appreciation for her efforts. “My most memorable encounter

connect with something forgotten but to also re-learn it and

with a collector is when she came up to me as we were

then archive it,” she explains. “As I find myself assimilating

standing in front of the work,” she smiles. “She said that this

into this Western context, the urgency for integrating my

piece connects to her soul and as she was speaking she shed

heritage into the work has become intensified. There is a

a tear. This is when I feel like I’ve accomplished something, a

need to achieve and preserve amidst this constant push and

connection that reaches someone so profoundly.” And with

pull of erasure and remembrance.”

a solo show at The Contemporary Art Museum St. Louis

It’s ironic that Kahraman, who is a graduate of the Academy

coming up this month, as well as a late-October exhibit at

of Art and Design in Florence, Italy, is so knowledgeable about

the Jack Shainman Gallery in New York City, and a curated

both Western and Middle Eastern art histories, and yet her

solo section at Abu Dhabi Art with The Third Line later this

own identity, as an immigrant, belongs to neither cultures.

year, there’s a lot of admirers still yet to be discovered.

Interview by Mary Keenan, Portrait image courtesy of Jessica McCormack

280 M O J EH WO M A N

FIVE MINUTES WITH JESSICA MCCORMACK MOJEH gets to know the Mayfair-based fine jeweller with a refreshingly unique take on statement pieces.

My favourite restaurant in London is…

Scotts in Mayfair, which began life as an oyster bar on Haymarket in 1851, and then moved to Mayfair in the Sixties. It’s a London institution filled with history, but more importantly, it has the best Dover Sole in town.

Interview by Mary Keenan

My go-to place for a healthy juice in London is…

The Mae Deli owned by Deliciously Ella, which is a stone’s

Fine jewellery designer Jessica McCormack knows a thing or two about glamour.

Born and raised in Christchurch, New Zealand, Jessica’s love of past treasures began during her childhood in her father’s auction house and grew further after a year working in Sotheby’s jewellery department. Her love of antiques can be seen in her standout designs which are deeply-rooted in nostalgia, emotion and history. Known for her dazzling diamond rings and their signature party jackets, it’s easy to see why Rihanna, Charlize Theron and Liv Tyler all fans of her designs.

throw from my townhouse store.

My favourite spot to grab a coffee is…

At a great little place near my store called Mount Street Deli, it has the best coffee and is a lovely lunchtime spot.

My favourite app is…

Touchnote. It enables you to send postcards anywhere at any time. In an age of digital photos, it’s nice to send a hard copy snap once in a while.

My most cherished piece of jewellery is…

I’m currently listening to…

A diamond ring that my husband gave me which had

Fleetwood Mac.

previously belonged to his great grandfather, who we named one of our sons after. I will hand it down to my

The last item of clothing/footwear I bought was...

son, who will hopefully pass it down the line too. It has

Alaïa studded velvet sandals.

quite a traditional design so I created a ruby and black gold diamond party jacket for it. It’s one of my most

The things on my nightstand at the moment are…

treasured possessions and I wear it all the time.

My Kindle and a small brass dish with my jewellery in it.

My biggest luxury is…

The item currently at the top of my wishlist is…

Uninterrupted days with my entire family preferably

A Capability Chelsea Robe by Olivia Von Halle.

somewhere by the sea. Given how far-flung we all are, this can be an expensive indulgence, but it’s

If I wasn’t designing jewellery I would be…

worth every cent.

A florist. I adore the changing colour pallette with the new variety of flowers each season. My store in London

The beauty product I can’t live without is...

is always filled with flowers including 19th Century hand-

My friend Dr. Barbara Sturm’s magic serum - it acts

painted didactic flowers that sit amongst the jewellery.

as a super booster of sorts against wrinkles and

For me, arranging flowers and creating beautiful new

imperfections. Barbara’s beauty products are based

compositions is much like piecing together diamonds

on her medical understanding of cells and anti-ageing,

and gemstones in a harmonious way.

it’s an indulgence but I am totally hooked.

The best thing about my job is…

If there’s one place you should visit in New Zealand,

The process of creating a bespoke commission for my

it’s...

clients is one of the most precious aspects of what I do.

The Eastern bays of Banks Peninsula for its natural

It’s incredibly rewarding knowing that we have created

rugged beauty.

a future heirloom for someone.

282

F I N A L N OTE

RESPLENDENT R

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I

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S

Reminiscent of fine art, Bulgari’s new high jewellery necklace is a vision of colour and creativity. Incorporating a sumptuous array of rich jewel tones, comprising of blue sapphires, rich emeralds and striking rubies, the maison’s creative director Lucia Silvestri set out to create “a soft fringe that wraps a woman’s neck to make it even more beautiful”.

Photographed by Julia Chernih at The Factory ME, styled by Sophie Pasztor

High jewellery necklace in white gold with emeralds (141.97ct), sapphires (149.31ct), rubies (95.42ct), round brilliant cut diamonds (34.13ct), baguette diamonds (4.78ct) and pavé diamonds (14.99ct), BVLGARI

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