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14 Chairman SHAHAB IZADPANAH

EDITORIAL

PUBLISHING

Editor in Chief MOJEH IZADPANAH

Publishing Director RADHIKA NATU

Associate Editor SHERI IZADPANAH

Senior Publishing Executive DESIREE LABANDA-GAVERIA

Managing Editor KELLY BALDWIN

Junior Publishing Assistant kisada hurin

Senior Fashion Writer Mary KeEnan

Advertising Manager Sian Hayes

Lifestyle Writers Laura Beaney Annie Darling

Paris Representative GHISLAIN DE CASTELBAJAC

Senior Editorial Assistant Sophie pasztor

Advertising Inquiries Tel: +971 4 553 90 49 Email: advertising@mojeh.com

Guest Fashion Stylists Camille-Joséphine Teisseire Clelia Bergonzoli

Subscription Tel: +971 4 553 90 49 Email: subs@mojeh.com

MOJEH Men Group Peter Iantorno Dmitri Ruwan

Online Division ALI ROMAN Afreen Khwaja

ART

LOUIS FOURTEEN FOR MOJEH

Producers Mojeh Magazine and LOUIS AGENCY

Concierge Service Management daisy marchant

Art Director AMIRREZA AMIRASLANI

Corporate Manager JUBRAN HAMATI

Graphic Designer Balaji Mahendran

Published under HS Media Group FZ LLC Registered at Dubai Design District Building No. 8, Offices 212 P.O.Box 502333, Dubai, UAE.

Contributing Photographers Fedor Bitkov Luc Braquet Tibi Clenci Tré + Elmaz Pelle Lannefors

Photographed by Tibi Clenci, model wears Cartier jewellery

WWW.MOJEH.COM Louis Fourteen for MOJEH Follow us on Twitter @MOJEH_Magazine MOJEH Swiss Representative Office: Rue de Rive 4, 1204 Geneva, Switzerland Average qualified circulation (January-June 2016): 12,275 copies. For the UAE printed by Emirates Printing Press LLC. Distribution- UAE: Al Nisr Distribution LLC. Qatar: Dar Al Sharq. Bahrain: Jashanmal & Sons BSC (C). Oman: United Media Services LLC. Lebanon: Messageries Du Moyen-Orient The publishers regret that they cannot accept liability for error or omissions contained in this publication, however caused. The opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessary those of the publishers. Readers are advised to seek specialist advice before acting on information contained in this publication which is provided for general use and may not be appropriate for the readers particular circumstances. The ownership of trademark is acknowledged, therefore reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. All credits are subjects to change. Copyright HS MEDIA GROUP FZ LLC 2011

M o j eh C o ntent s

Fashion 54. Something Borrowed Considering the practises of a country that proposes an East-meets-West approach to matrimony, MOJEH explores the nuances of China’s wedding scene.

80. The Crumbling Walls of Couture We make sense of couture’s changing boundaries as its storied designers shed light on their once enigmatic existence.

186. Defining Details We catch up with Vanessa Paradis to discover her take on everything from Karl Lagerfeld to the colour red and her definition of timeless beauty.

Photoshoots 40. state of play

98. Wild Awakening

Our understanding of occasion wear becomes

Setting the tone for Fall, Chanel’s crystal twinkling

increasingly fluid as sophistication is seen outside

tweeds and gilded medallion necklaces weigh down

of gowns and grandeur.

on the season’s style directions.

88. Refinery Reimagined

110. Haute Heights

We wake from a decadent dream to couture’s new

Mixing a spectrum of golds with a tough dress code,

reality. Bold folds, fragrant colours and myriad

accessories shy away from the frail and traditionally

materials gain traction.

feminine with hard metal making its comeback.

18 Health & Beauty 152. Raw Stories Famed nose to Guerlain, Thierry Wasser, discusses his latest fragrance journey that saw him scour the earth from Australia to Iran sourcing ingredients.

154. You Are What You Ingest Proposing flawless skin and radiance from the inside out, we become acquainted with ingestibles, the beauty industry’s latest love.

156. Health Personified As we enter into a new era where DNA testing has the power to define everything from healthcare to beauty, MOJEH examines its power and potential.

Accessories

Culture

130. Radium Girls

174. Art Redirected

With Middle Eastern women increasingly the ones

From curators to patrons, the region’s tastemakers

driving luxury watch sales, MOJEH finds out what

celebrate the cultural and societal contributions that

makes them tick.

Middle Eastern and Islamic art have to offer.

136. Better Late

180. A Vibrant Existence

In an era where speed and convenience are everything,

A place where colour and carefully curated style exist

we look to high jewellery and ask if luxury’s true

side-by-side, we step inside jewellery designer Ilke

incarnation is found in its painstaking processes?

Shah’s fanciful family abode.

Dubai: Dubai Mall, Marina Mall, Mall of the Emirates, The Walk JBR Abu Dhabi: Yas Mall elisabettafranchi.com

E d i t o r ’s L ette r

Novel Notions of Grandeur High expectations are placed on this most supreme of accolades, as designers are expected to stay true to the original visions of their house, while maintaining the deeply engrained, decadesold codes of craftsmanship but, of course, with added oeuvre as they look to capture new audiences without displeasing the handful of existing buyers. As a result, we’re presented with brilliantly crafted pieces that take the imagination (and often technology) to the extreme, in pursuit of straddling the old with novel and innovative thought. Throughout the issue we present a multitude of styling options for the upcoming events season while discussing the new avenues of Haute Couture – an industry that is increasingly opening its arms wider to one and all. Nothing compliments couture more than fine and high jewellery – a world that thrives in parallel to the excessive yet exquisite nature of the business. On our cover we celebrate Cartier’s contemporary pieces, which nod towards a younger and less contrived era for the industry. For wearers, the beauty in this democratisation is that we become a part of the ongoing conversation, shaping a future for couture and high jewellery that is ultimately dictated by our own choices. Whether you choose traditional, avant-garde or an immergence of the two this summer, know that the ripple effect of your style statement speaks far further than the volumes of tulle used to curate your piece.

Follow me on Twitter and Instagram @Mojeh_I and write to me at editor@mojeh.com

Mojeh Izadpanah Editor in Chief

Photographed by Fedor Bitkov

Couture is one of the most fiercely debated facets of fashion.

E d i t o r â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s SN A P SHOT s

Sweet Treat 6

1&2

4&5

Honeydew melon, blue sherbet, and powdered pink hues are sugar coating spring. Poca&Poca picks a concentration of peach, while Dries van Noten opts for a rainbow of colour. A light dusting of blush to the cheeks will keep your beauty look fresh and romantic. 1. DRIES VAN NOTEN @mytheresa | 2. FENDI | 3. DE GRISOGONO | 4. GIVENCHY | 5. GUERLAIN | 6. STUART WEITZMAN | 7. WENDY YUE | 8. YOKO LONDON | 9. POCA&POCA

Ornate Opulence Put your best foot forward with decorative shoes that are guaranteed to elevate even the most minimal of outfits. Look to details such as delicate embroidery, intricate beading and sumptuous silk fabrics in rich jewel tones.

Top to bottom: NÂ° 21 at Level Shoes | ALBERTA FERRETTI at Level Shoes | DORATEYMUR @themodist

Photographed by Borna Ahadi, styled by Sophie Pasztor

S t yl e N ote

www.slouchyz.com

S t yl e N ote

Romance is in the air with enchanted blooms and charming silhouettes. Delightful scallop-edged bags at Fendi pair perfectly with Eden Heel ankle boots from Ralph&Russo, while Diorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fanciful clutch adds a tale of whimsy. Clockwise from top: DIOR | RALPH & RUSSO at Level Shoes | FENDI | ROSANTICA at BySymphony

Photographed by Borna Ahadi, styled by Sophie Pasztor

Modern Fairytale

Met sofa designed by Piero Lissoni discover more at cassina.com

The Lofts East, Emaar Boulevard, Downtown Dubai Tel. +971 4 339 7111 Sunday to Thursday 10:00 AM - 8:00 PM, Saturday 12:00 PM - 8:00 PM www.poltronafraugroupme.com

S t yl e N ote

Metal Movement Shine bright for May with shimmering metallic bags that offer both style and sophistication. Contrast classic silhouettes with reflecting

Photographed by Borna Ahadi, styled by Sophie Pasztor

textures and donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be afraid to opt for colour.

Left to right: LOUIS VUITTON | M2MALLETIER at BySymphony | FENDI | ARANAZ @themodist

M OJEH INTER V IEW

Five Minutes With

Gilda Ambrosio and Giorgia Tordini

Who is the Attico woman? Our clients are a mix of both young and older women, who are beautiful, intellectual and well-travelled. They like to experiment and have their own sense of individuality.

We get to know the founders of Attico, the contemporary cool label by two street style stars which has a cult following.

This modern woman meets our muses from the past, who actually gave names to some of our styles: Jane Birkin, Bianca Jagger, Cher, Ali MacGraw and Veruschka. Why did you decide to launch Attico? We both felt ready to express our own voices and wanted the challenge of combining two different styles to create timeless dresses, ones we would love to wear

Interviewed by Mary Keenan

and keep in our closets forever. How does the brand reflect both of your styles and aesthetics? We both have very different tastes, yet Attico is a balance of both. Its aesthetic is Gilda meets Giorgia, unified by effortless pieces. It’s been a very interesting collaboration so far, since we both pull each other in directions that neither of us would normally go. That kind of discomfort and encouragement stimulates our creative growth. You were both friends before starting the brand. How has it been working together? Our relationship is evolving! We definitely know each other more now. Attico brings us together, we work a lot, but we also have a lot of fun and that’s the best part of it. We live in different cities, so we meet wherever possible – New York, Milan, Los Angeles. We have endless Skype calls, long conversations on WhatsApp and email, and shared folders on Pinterest. Why is Attico suitable for women here? Attico offers precious one-of-a-kind pieces. We focus a lot on embellishment, design our own embroideries and prints, and we care about details. We think that women in the Middle East appreciate this kind of accuracy and attention on their garments. Styles are very feminine and embrace women’s bodies in a soft elegant way, gently highlighting body shapes. Talk to us about your prints and colours for spring/ summer17. What attracted you to the florals, gingham checks and rich hues? We envisioned our woman travelling to tropical destinations to have some fun. This change of setting from last season enabled us to play with colours, shapes and embroideries, all inspired by summer and exotic places.

The subjects this season are parrots, fish, coral, shells, lobsters and palms, intended to whisk you away on vacation all year long. The colours are bright – purple, turquoise, red, pink and green. We thought about what we would feel like wearing on a trip to Guatemala or Cuba, and we created a wardrobe around that. Your kimono style robes have proven to be very popular. What drew you towards this silhouette? The robe is definitely the most representative piece of the collection and it will carry over to coming seasons as our signature piece. Robes are very versatile, easy to put on, but also very glamorous. They go on top of every outfit and they can be whatever you want: a dress, a coat, a long shirt. If you were to describe Attico in three words what would they be? Effortless, cool, elegant. You’re both incredibly stylish – which items do you think form the core of a timeless wardrobe? A good wardrobe is made up of timeless pieces that you can mix and match with seasonal ones. It’s always worth buying a few statement pieces, such as good pair of vintage Levi’s, a Chanel bag, a black tailored blazer, a Céline coat, a black dress for all occasions, some pointed pumps, white T-shirts, and an Attico robe, of course!

J e w ellery N ot e

The serpent forms the motif of the season with its mystic enigma. A juxtaposition of contrasting metals adds an irrefutable edge while diamonds underscore lifelike details.

Watches and earrings, BVLGARI

Photographed by Borna Ahadi, styled by Sophie Pasztor

Into The Woods

MOJEH.COM Our carefully curated digital platform delivers engaging, inspiring and timely content with exclusive access to the industryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most influential players.

F A SHION IN F O C U S

9 2

Cl ean Cut

7 4 3

Compiled by Sophie Pasztor

2 Print Playoff

5 7

1 8 2

7 4

1 8

Storybook Romance Don a wash of light-weight white in dreamy silks and satins. Fairytale portrayals add a touch of the whimsical while delicate accessories carry a demure touch that is expressively feminine. 1. MADIYAH AL SHARQI | 2. MATICEVSKI | 3. CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN | 4. DIOR | 5. LINDA FARROW | 6. BUTANI | 7. VICTORIA, VICTORIA BECKHAM @stylebop | 8. VINITA MICHAEL

4 6

3 5

M ay N ew s

Ed van der Elsken: Camera in Love until May 21 Dutch photographer Ed van der Elsken’s seminal street life imagery covers all corners of the globe, from Paris to Tokyo and Amsterdam to Africa. Having travelled extensively and produced more than 20 photography books throughout his life, his work picks out nuances of everyday routine from laughing women crossing an Amsterdam street to intense moments of consideration on a Tokyo subway. This retrospective is the largest of Van der Elsken’s work in 25 years, delving deep into the imagemaker’s enthusiasm for the cultures and countercultures he came across. Stedelijk Museum, Amsterdam

Chef Greg Malouf launches Zahira in May Promising to show diners a stylish take on traditional Middle Eastern dishes, Zahira is Chef Greg Malouf’s latest project. The menu presents traditional Levantine dishes as artistic expressions, taking guests on a journey through the different courses divided into Art of Mezza, Art of Sharing, Art of the Garden and finishing with the Art of Sweet Design and Tradition. There’s also the Art of Feasting, which is a nine-course tasting menu that will change regularly. “I’ve spent years working on the evolution of Lebanese cuisine and while the dishes need to remain faithful to the essence of the region, they can still be presented with creative flair,” says Malouf. “I want to be part of the next chapter in Middle Eastern food and Zahira will be the platform I’ve been looking for to present this next chapter in Dubai.”

Chelsea Flower Show May 23 - 27  The most prestigious event in the horticultural calendar, the RHS Chelsea Flower Show returns once more. Taking visitors on a floral journey across Spain, Malta, Mexico, Japan, and Bermuda, many of this year’s gardens propose exotic themes, while others take their inspiration locally from the British countryside. Highlights include the ‘feel good’ sensory gardens designed to uplift and encourage people to lose themselves among a feast of sights, scents and sounds, while Jack Dunckley’s The Bermuda Triangle resembles an active volcano, surrounded by tropical planting. Royal Hospital, Chelsea, London

Images courtesy of Salvatore Ferragamo, Cartier, Chef Greg Malouf, Stedelijk Museum and Royal Horticultural Society

H Hotel, Dubai

Treasures from the Cartier Collection until July 24 Two new exhibitions, Jardins and From the Great Mughals to the Maharajas: Jewels from the Al Thani Collection, open their doors to the public at Grand Palais, Paris. Jardins curator Laurent Le Bon has selected 17 floral creations from the Cartier Collection illustrating one of the jeweller’s most beloved themes, while Great Mughals to the Maharajas invites the visitor on a two-part journey highlighting the dual themes: the artistic sophistication of Mughal India, and the exchanges between India and Europe since the Renaissance. Grand Palais, Paris

Culture Coming From Cartier’s carefully curated treasures to elevated Lavantine eats and the highpoint of the horticultural calendar, lending colour to London, MOJEH marks out remarkable outings for May.

1927 The Return to Italy May 18 2017 - May 2 2018 Ninety years after Salvatore Ferragamo returned to Italy from the United States, the museum dedicated to him opens a new exhibition, 1927 The Return to Italy. Exploring the various elements of Italy’s 20th Century visual culture and highlighting the themes and works of art that directly influenced Ferragamo’s creations, the exhibition takes on board the myriad cultural and social aspects that characterised the postWWI period. Highlights include works by Maccari, Martini, Gio Ponti, Depero as well as fabric, finely crafted objets d’art, photographs and advertisements from the era. Museo Salvatore Ferragamo, Florence

S t yl e N otes

Magdalena wears dress, VALENTINO Sanne wears dress, FENDI

S tat e O f P l a y Dressing up denotes more than gowns and grandeur. Todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sophistication is seen in silky suits, throngs of frills and powerful prints. Let materials lead the way when it comes to considering luxury.

Photographed by TrĂŠ + Elmaz Styled by Kelly Baldwin

Fine folds find themselves becoming a new marker of craftsmanship. Wear in airy-light sheers or stay true to the decade of the moment in Eighties high sheen options.

Sanne wears dress, FENDI | shoes, BURBERRY Magdalena wears dress, BOTTEGA VENETA | shoes, VERSACE

Feminine and fanciful cuts become current, adorned with powerful pattern while floor-grazing gowns gain edge in block colour.

Sanne wears dress, SAINT LAURENT Magdalena wears dress, LOUIS VUITTON

Twinkling crystal detailing and glistening gold capture the sunlight, sending out a cry for Eighties opulence.

44 Sleeveless jacket, SAINT LAURENT | trousers and shoes, GUCCI

Powerful platforms become a summer staple, look to Oriental detailing and poignant patterns and transition between silky trousers and knee-length skirts.

Magdalena wears top, DIOR Sanne wears top, LANVIN

Airy plumes capture movement and instantly uplift simple cuts and colour codes.

Magdalena wears dress, GIVENCHY Sanne wears dress, BURBERRY

When looking to punctuate serious styles with a sense of play, polka dots add a youthful feel to sheer fabric and lace.

48 Dress, GUCCI

Overt opulence is no longer bound to winter. Sequinned detailing and dark hues take summer dressing into a new existance.

Jacket, VERSACE | dress, CHLOÉ | shoe, Celine

Acid brights break up muted colour combinations. Geometric prints are a refreshing update to the season’s typical floral fare.

Top and skirt, VERSACE | sleeveless jacket and top, LANVIN

Think outside the box when considering texture and layering. Unexpected material pairings elevate simple silhouettes.

Dress, VALENTINO

Welcoming a fond winter favourite into summerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s heat, paper-thin, laser cut leather revokes predictability from the realm of romanticism.

52 Sanne wears dress, CĂ&#x2030;LINE Magdalena wears top, GUCCI | jacket and trousers, LANVIN

Splashes of cerulean shake up garden gowns, keep accessories simple and let the colour call out. Suits redefine eventwear, keep materials luxe and let pattern play for attention.

Top, shirt, panties and shoes, DIOR

Models: Magdalena Nowicka at Art Factory Management Sanne de Roo at Art Factory Management Hair and makeup: Marisol Steward Styling assistant: Sophie Pasztor Videography (watch on MOJEH.com): Viktor Sloth Location: Desert Palm PER AQUUM. Special thanks to their team.

Demure designs take a darker direction as sheers and sharp buckled detailing adorn feminine silhouettes.

F a sh i o n f eatu r e

S omething

Borrowed Shaped by social media and rising wealth, MOJEH decodes the unique fusion of East and West, past and present, which Chinaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s contemporary wedding scene proposes.

The new generation in the rising middle and upper classes are opting for fusion weddings that blend traditional Chinese elements with Western trends

Words by Laura Beaney

A New York Minute, photographed by Romanleo, MOJEH Issue 5

In a feat of fashion fantasy that took almost six

handwork and produced locally. China, on

months to prepare, Angelababy’s full-skirted

the other hand, proposes a new approach,

Haute Couture gown by Dior was spellbinding.

taking contemporary cues from the West while

Organza sleeves and Chantilly lace adorned

upholding age-old traditions – its wedding

32 metres of satin organza, 51 metres of

industry is estimated to be worth between

tulle, and a seven-layer skirt, followed by a

AED 183 billion and AED 293 billion.

three-metre train.

The rise in China’s burgeoning wedding

It was China’s most highly anticipated wedding

market can be attributed to several factors.

that saw the actress and singer wed Huang

“Today’s millennial bride is usually an only

Xiaoming, another of the country’s young,

child with both sets of parents available to

shining stars. Their extravagant ceremony

contribute financial resources,” says Ling

reportedly cost AED 92,000,100, a figure on

Ying, who founded Weddings by Ling in Los

par with that of the royal wedding of Prince

Angeles in 2009. Ying quickly entered into the

William and Kate Middleton. The bride wore

Chinese market due to its rapid development

a six-figure, six-carat Chaumet diamond ring,

and need for high-end planners. China’s one

and had recently returned from Paris, where

child policy began to be phased out in 2015,

she posed in a series of Elie Saab couture

but for the vast majority of today’s couples,

gowns before the Eiffel Tower for her official

there are no siblings to contend with, and

wedding portraits.

wedding funds are often boosted further by

The lavish affair is symbolic of China’s new

four sets of grandparents. Second to this,

generation with new attitudes towards nuptials.

China’s middle class is rising at an exponential

While nearby India is known for boasting an

rate: In 2000, just 4 per cent of the urban

extravagant wedding scene of its own, its

population were considered middle class, but

opulent affairs tend to stay true to practices

according to a study by McKinsey & Company,

of the past, with gowns relying on traditional

76 per cent will be in this group by 2022.

Guo Pei spring/summer16. On the morning of the wedding, the mother of the groom traditionally bestows four ‘points’ of gold on to the bride; a necklace, pendant, bracelet, and earrings to welcome her new daughter

The contemporary Chinese bride typically wears a white dress as her main outfit with 2-3 changes for evening dresses

“Today’s modern Chinese brides aspire to have a Western wedding,” says Ying. “Living in the digital world, it’s easier for brides to have access to information and trends from leading wedding markets like the US, making them more informed and trend-savvy. She knows what brands she wants to purchase, and what styles and colours are in for the season.” What makes China’s current industry Often in puritanical republics, there’s a sense of

add in a Western touch at the banquet, such

yearning for the gilded ways of the overthrown

as a wedding cake-cutting ceremony,” says

aristocracy and in China, this is infused with

Baileys of Vera Wang and Central Weddings

a thirst for technology and a fascination with

Hong Kong. Western weddings tend to be a

Hollywood; they’re also a nation that loves

more intimate affair, with a focus on religion.

to shop abroad, and China’s citizens are

“We often refer to it as the ‘Ceremony of

enamoured by America’s TV-ready lifestyles

God’,” says Ying. “By contrast, traditional

and luxury brands.

Chinese weddings come across more like a

The result is a Western-style ceremony with

production. They can be more glitzy, loud,

Chinese rituals. In the past, Chinese weddings

and larger in size.” But, today’s couples tend

were highly concerned with customs, from

to more selective, taking on traditions in-line

pre-wedding practices hailing from the Han

with their taste and budget. “Most of them just

dynasty, such as the selection of an auspicious

want their wedding to be completely different

wedding day based on the lunar calendar,

from their friends and relatives,” says Ying.

and tea-pouring ceremonies. “Now they often

“It’s all about impressing their guests.” With

Images courtesy of Weddings by Ling

so fascinating is its East-meets-West aesthetic.

Chinese weddings, the volumes are vast. They

whose boutique houses designers like Vera

of aesthetics. One of the reasons is because

are weddings ‘for the people’, with guest

Wang, Marchesa, and Monique Lhuillier. “I have

they are wealthier than before, but mostly it is

numbers ranging from 200 to over a thousand,

once helped a couple of brides who had six

because Chinese people have a strong sense

or in the case of Angelababy, 2,000. Dining

outfits for a 12-hour wedding: the traditional

of family and they take the ceremony seriously.”

comes in the form of an eight-course banquet,

Qua, two wedding gowns, a Chinese Zhipao

Intriguing from more than just a cultural

typically served with dish names that convey

and two evening gowns,” says Chu.

perspective, China presents a huge opportunity

well-wishes for the newly-weds.

Like Angelababy, China’s elite are proud to

for Western designers to meet its growing

As well as audience, costume also comes

assert their national identity and spending

demand. White dresses, honeymoons, cake-

into play when considering the magnitude

power. And, while she wore Dior couture as her

cutting and diamond engagement rings are

of these weddings. The Chinese bride must

main gown, the couple looked to the virtuosity

becoming ubiquitous, but there’s still a strong

consider several changes, starting with the

of Guo Pei’s needlework for their tea ceremony.

sense of importance placed upon the past.

Qua, a traditional Chinese wedding gown.

“Around five years ago, I made a gown for a

As China’s new generation of brides and

“It’s usually in red, gold or silver embroidery,

client that was worth AED 1,066,866,” says

grooms continue to find their feet, creating

with dragons and phoenix designs,” explains

Guo Pei, whose fine gold-threaded designs

their own traditions, there is an opportunity

Kalam Chu, a makeup artist who has attended

and themes of porcelain, fans and scrolls

for designers and planners to codify these

over 700 Chinese weddings. The bride then

convey the sense of China’s longing for

unique cultural drivers. “I once was a bride,”

usually wears a white dress as her main gown,

imperial grandeur. However, Pei maintains that

smiles Pei. “Regardless of whether you’re

followed by two to three evening dresses.

‘lavish’ is not a term she associates with the

in the East or West, we somehow have the

“They prefer A-line and ball gowns, and also

weddings of her region. “People with economic

same expectation for our wedding to be one

like a lot of embellishment,” explains Baileys,

means do like to have high demands in terms

of the most beautiful moments in our lives.”

Digital advancements have enabled Eastern brides to seek inspiration from the West

D e sig n er I nter vie w

Evolutionary Contemporary designer Phillip Lim talks to us about his spring/summer17 collection, American style and life lessons.

Tale

Interview by Mary Keenan

feminine flounce. “We like to say our design philosophy at 3.1 Phillip Lim is classic with a sense of madness. That twist – the madness – has become the brand’s signature, and my aim is to apply that into every collection.” This rings true of the spring/summer17 collection, which centered itself around a ‘midnight at the Victorian rodeo’ storyline. “I am really excited about the denim that we developed for spring 2017. No one needs another five-pocket pair of jeans, so for me, it was about exploring familiar denim silhouettes and then applying details that make the garments individualised,” he brand’s collection offered plenty of highly

designer, rather than a revolutionary

covetable pieces, consisting of edgy silk

designer,” says Phillip Lim, “And what I

shorts suits in sporty cuts that came down

mean by that is I’m not trying to reinvent

the runway alongside pretty floral dresses,

the wheel. I design classic clothes, but with

python-paneled shifts, crisp white gilets and

an unusual, unexpected twist,” he explains.

electrifying injections of colour. A relaxed

This statement is an accurate summation of

Californian vibe also shone through, thanks

the designer’s aesthetic, which has seen him

to the sleek bralet tops, slouch jumpsuits

develop a signature that he has fine-tuned

and college-style jackets that he sent out.

and honed each season, encapsulating

“I also love the footwear,” he smiles. “The

modern silhouettes in razor-sharp cuts.

Nashville flat-form and the Patsy mule

There’s a palpable element of understated

are cool and don’t take themselves too

luxury to Lim’s work, which comes from

seriously. They look great with the denim

thoughtful touches such as a romantic ruffle

or also with a more whimsical pairing,

on an oversized masculine sweatshirt or a

like the collection’s floral silk groups.”

sleek business-like shift dress finished with a

Born to Chinese parents in Thailand,

Images courtesy of 3.1 Phillip Lim

enthuses. Washed-out denim aside, the “I always like to say that I am an evolutionary

Pared-back elements such as sporty bra tops and surfer shorts contrasted against the collection’s sharply tailored silhouettes

Lim moved to the United States with his family before he was a year old. Growing up in California, he attended Long Beach University, studying home economics and working at Barneys. During a shift at the store, Lim unpacked a box of clothing by Katayone Adeli and called the designer for an internship. His first solo line, Development, was backed by a Californian surf and streetwear brand for four years before launching his namesake label, 3.1 Phillip Lim, with the financial backing of Wen Zhou in 2005. A driving force in Lim’s career, Zhou remains his business partner and close friend today. Lim’s contemporary approach to design, sharp business acumen and inherently cool clothing have pushed him to the forefront of the fashion industry, leading the new generation of American designers that are making an impact internationally. “American women live multifaceted, multifunctional, complex lives, so I do think that local design should cater to those needs,” he reflects. “However, my goal is to create global design; ultimately products for global citizens, who live their lives across time zones, regions, and cultures.” This mindset is visible in Lim’s collections, which are consistently cool, chic and above all, wearable. There’s an ease, classicism and quiet elegance to Lim’s designs that are

Bright jolts of zesty yellow and magenta punctuated the collection, bringing an energetic burst of colour to the show

incredibly appropriate for the Gulf region,

departments. But, I also try to find some

something that the designer is well aware

quiet time in my library – some calm in the

of. “As a designer, it’s crucial for me to

chaos – to sketch, write, meditate or just

make women of all cultures feel strong,

reflect. Having that opportunity to recharge,

beautiful and confident. There’s a need for

even if it is just 10 minutes, is invaluable,” he

sophisticated, modern clothes that make

confides. Outside of the office, Lim travels

you feel confident when you’re at work,

frequently to new places and cultures in

out to dinner, on holiday; that take you

order to maintain his focus and stay inspired,

throughout your day with ease.” He pauses

citing light, noise, colour and nature as his

briefly before continuing, “Also, items that

key inspirations. Unlike a growing number

feel luxurious and beautifully made, but do

of designers and brands, Lim has no plans

not break the bank. These are desires that

to switch to a see-now-buy-now sales

women everywhere have in common when

model. “My business partner, Wen, and I

it comes to their wardrobes. I believe it is

have always sought to create desire – if

universal across all cultures.”

something is impactful enough, it will be

When it comes to the business side of his

worth the wait,” he remarks. This line of

brand, Lim is extremely hands-on. “I am

conversation takes us towards another hot

always in the office!” he exclaims. “I start the

topic within the industry at the moment – the

day with a strong coffee and then go from

millennial consumer. “Everyone is on social

meeting to meeting, across many different

media these days, not just millennials, so

Pictured in high spirits backstage, Lim makes some last minute final touches to his garments

I think it is crucial to engage all audiences Washed-out shades gave denim a vintage feel, while delicate floral motifs added charm and femininity

– it’s not necessarily about turning a laser focus to just one demographic,” declares Lim. “I believe the best way to do that is to be authentic and honest in the way you communicate – because the people engaging with brands these days are smarter and more knowledgeable than ever, and if something feels forced or disingenuous, they will see through it.” Lim’s viewpoint is a welcome one – as more and more established Houses and brands set their sights on the burgeoning millennial and Generation Z consumer categories, it’s reassuring to know that he has a bigger picture in mind. The designer will instead set his sights on steady expansion, with the intention of growing his accessories and footwear lines, and spreading into different international markets throughout the year. Lim displays a sense of self-assuredness and intuition that far exceeds his age. When reflecting on the most valuable lessons of his career so far, Lim is humble: “Be present. Be grateful. Live generously and stay curious.” His commitment to his work, genuine talent and measured step-by-step approach to the growth and development of his brand are all undoubtedly key factors in his success, but perhaps the most significant is the relationship he creates with his consumer through his garments. Unperturbed by trends and hype, Lim designs for the wearer rather than the viewer, crafting meticulously made beautiful clothes that women want to wear season after season.

The Mood

Decadent Jovial starbursts and intricate beading bring life to some of spring’s most precious Haute Couture pieces.

Armani Privé

The artisan techniques of Haute Couture have always been an endless source of both beauty and wonder. This season, numerous designers took inspiration from pyrotechnics, resulting in vibrant and expressive displays on garments and gowns. At Zuhair Murad, the reference was more obvious – hues of fuchsia, electricblue, jade-green and vivid-pink with heavily embellished scatters and sparks lit up his collection. At Armani Privé, beautiful capelets in orange and black were tied loosely around the neck, with gentle tulle ruffles cascading from the shoulders; ornate crystal embroidery added an additional touch of opulence. Elie Saab displayed his prowess for detail yet again, sending out a collection evoking the golden age of Egypt – what resulted on his runway was a breathtaking array of painstakingly embellished gowns that featured sceneries from the Nile, palm trees and elaborate explosions of colour and pattern. Look to garments bearing these summer. Floor-length gowns with metallic beading hit all the right sartorial notes for black tie and gala dressing, while jackets, blazers and capes with these details can be dressed up or down to suit almost any type of occasion.

Elie Saab

Words by Mary Keenan

starburst motifs for occasions and events this

The Cover Up We take a look at one of summerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most versatile and elegant silhouettes.

Schiaparelli

Georges Chakra

Over the past few Haute Couture seasons, there has been a marked shift towards highly wearable shapes and cuts that can be easily integrated into an everyday wardrobe. For spring17, the bolero jacket made an appearance on a plethora of runways, in a variety of hues, textures and fabrics. At Georges Chakraâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s show, painstaking attention to detail saw purple feathers and pearlescent, electric blue sequins sewn onto a white jacket, with elbow-length sleeves. Fastened at the neck, the cropped jacket was paired with a high-waisted skirt, showing just enough skin to make it appear both edgy and demure at the same time. At Schiaparelli, Bertrand Guyon juxtaposed jacquard fabrics in burnished bronze and gold against rich tapestry-like textiles to create a scalloped bolero with peekaboo details; vivid red tassels lent an Oriental tone to it all. A statement bolero makes a valuable addition to a summer wardrobe due to its versatility and size. Add finesse to summer denim or an elegant maxi dress by gently draping an iridescent or lightweight silk version over the shoulders. For events and black tie occasions, look to embellished boleros of a shorter length to bring a touch of understated opulence to a classic gown, while still ensuring that it remains visible and on show. Invest in timeless cuts and styles that can transition from day to night with ease.

T h e F o cus

MOJEH explores fashionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s subtle approach to glamour, taking you through the summer with ease.

Prabal Gurung

Altuzarra

The fast-approaching summer season brings with it all sorts of social engagements, including evening soirees and garden parties, as well as the all-important summer wedding. Fortunately, the spring/summer17 runways offered plenty of covetable and elegant dresses that are unfussy, yet incredibly polished – ideal for the woman with a packed social calendar both at home and abroad. When it comes to silhouettes, think ‘elevated bohemia’. Look for sweeping shapes cut from sheer, lightweight fabrics that generate movement through slits, plissé pleats or layered hemlines that will bring an element of effortlessness to your Naeem Khan

style, and can work for a whole manner of occasions. Take colour cues from the runways, where pastel and sorbet hues appeared across countless collections in all

embroidery or embellishment are well-

Pucci, Roberto Cavalli and Sportmax to

four fashion capitals, injecting a refreshing

suited to evening events, glimmering when

make a statement. Accessories also play a

hit of colour into the proceedings. For

the light dips – look to designers such as

vital role – bring modernity to a classic shift

a more sophisticated take on the trend,

Naeem Khan, Monique Lhuillier, Kenzo and

with a pair of mismatched metallic earrings

channel a subdued glamour, achieved by

Erin Fetherston, and wear with statement

or a pair of summer ankle boots for an

selecting slightly darker shades, such as

summer sandals and a bold lip. Punchy

unexpected, yet stylish, twist. A spaghetti

apple green, washed-out lilac and sky blue.

floral prints and demure lace dresses lend

strap gown such as Altuzarra’s lemon print

A whimsical approach prevailed, with

themselves well to daytime events, such

one is ideal for a destination wedding – wear

abstract and surrealist motifs exuding

as high teas, garden parties or outdoor

with a raffia or basket-woven clutch and a

a romantic aesthetic. Dresses with

weddings. Choose bold prints from Emilio

half up-do hairstyle to complete the look.

Colour Codes

se a s o n al s ty le

Take on a maximal approach as you jet off on your next coastal jaunt and migrate towards eccentric designs. Use a wide spectrum of colour and contrasting elements such as beading to unveil an artisanal design aesthetic.

Compiled by Sophie Pasztor

MARCO DE VINCENZO

Silk Trail

PRABAL GURUNG

Let exotic silks tap into your sensual side as they drape over the body in an elegant veil. Rich tones in gold and purple heighten opulence while ornate jewellery and embroidered footwear draws the eye to finer details.

F a sh i o n F eatu re

“Fashion and technology are inextricably connected, more so now than ever before,” says Thomas P Campbell, director and CEO of The Metropolitan Museum of Art. The institution’s spring 2016 exhibition, entitled Manus x Machina: Fashion in an Age of Technology, explored the role of machinery in fashion from the 20th Century to present day. Over 170 resplendent ensembles were presented, including designs from Christian Dior, Miuccia Prada and Karl Lagerfeld, which demonstrate the best in machine-made Haute Couture and avant-garde ready-to-wear.

The intersection of fashion and technology is leading to profoundly transformative possibilities in garment manufacture, meaning our gowns are even better than before.

Ever since John Greenough patented the first sewing machine in 1842, the application of machinery for the purposes of fashion design has worked its way into a position of great importance. Opinion on the differences between

Words by Annie Darling

the hand and machine-made, however, has sparked some debate about garment production, with the handmade typically considered higher quality. Pierpaolo Piccioli’s debut solo couture collection at Valentino, for example, is entirely handmade by a team of highly skilled artisans, who meticulously assembled an assortment of lengthy, pleated silhouettes that harked back to Renaissance royalty. Syrian designer Rami Al Ali is renowned for his awe-inspiring couture creations and intricate embroidery. “Technology is impacting every aspect of our lives and the fashion world is no exception,” he tells MOJEH. “There are now some amazing tools available to the modern designer,” he adds. “They have access to a multitude of tools and are able to modify and create fabrics like never before; these innovations have resulted in a host of new textiles that were previously non-existent. 3D printing, better software and graphic capabilities have allowed for a real sense of creativity.” “Traditionally, the distinction between the Haute Couture and prêt-à-porter was based on the handmade and the machine-made,” says Andrew Bolton, curator in charge of Manus x Machina: Fashion in an Age of Technology. “Recently, this distinction has become increasingly blurred, as both disciplines have embraced the practices and techniques of the other.” Often pieces that seem unimaginably futuristic, like Iris van Herpen’s nude-coloured dragon-skin bird dress from the Wilderness Embodied collection, are crafted by hand. At the Dutch designer’s spring/summer

Iris van Herpen introduced a soft hand-casted polyurethane (PU) material into her groundbreaking Haute Couture spring/summer collection

couture show, the focal gown consisted of 5,000 individual 3D-printed pieces that were painstakingly hand-woven together.

Guo Pei is best known for innovation and her regal aesthetic, which merges the designer’s traditional Chinese heritage with Western influences

Meanwhile, Karl Lagerfeld designed a wedding

as opportunities, and it’s not uncommon for

separating technology and fashion is blurring

dress for his 2014 couture show that was

designers to resort to gimmicks rather than stand

as designers turn to electronics and computer

machine-sewn, but hand-finished. The supremely

out, truly exceptional pieces.

companies, including Intel, set their sights on

elegant scuba knit and satin train’s elaborate

“There should definitely be a balance [between

the fashion world. The Apple Watch Hermès,

design was drawn by Lagerfeld himself, but

the handmade and machine-made],” says Al Ali.

for example, blends groundbreaking functionality

digitally manipulated afterwards to create a

“Fashion is an art form, and while technology

with uncompromising craftsmanship. “Both the

random baroque pattern. Hussein Chalayan’s

speeds up this process and offers convenience,

automated and handcrafted processes require

golden Kaikoku dress from the prêt-à-porter

the craft itself should supersede all else.” The

similar amounts of thoughtfulness and expertise,”

autumn/winter11 collection also pushed

couturier does admit, however, to being “old

says Jonathan Ive, Apple’s chief design officer.

boundaries. Made from cast fibreglass and

school”. “Coming from a couture background, I

“There are instances where technology is

embellished with two-petal flowers, assembled

feel the handcraft, workmanship and technical

optimised, but ultimately, it’s the amount of care

using pearled paper and Swarovski crystals,

heritage from each fashion house is sacred and

put into the craftsmanship, whether it’s machine-

these ‘pollens’ were released into the air and

gives a brand its true identity,” he says, before

made or handmade, that transforms ordinary

swirled around the wearer, when instructed

explaining that, in his opinion, ateliers are losing

materials into something extraordinary.”

by remote control.

their personality, character and uniqueness

As technology advances, fashion design has

Marc Jacobs, however, isn’t interested in

because of the overuse of advanced machinery,

evolved – and become even more complex.

featuring technology as part of the fabric of his

including 3D printing.

Subsequently, various questions remain

ensembles, as he explained to a crowd at South

Although easy to envision, a future in which

unanswered: How do we complement fashion

by Southwest (SXSW). “When fashion talks about

fashion and technology are seamlessly

and technology? How will ateliers transition from

the future, it usually end up silver… and that’s

intertwined is a long way off, but by shying away

traditional practices to machinery-driven ones?

not a new conversation,” he told a somewhat

from technical innovation, designers are often

Perhaps only time will tell, and in the meantime,

inflated audience. He’s right, of course. Emerging

missing out on intriguing opportunities. It goes

MOJEH explores the latest in 3D manufacturing,

technology comes with challenges, as well

without saying that the once impenetrable line

computer modelling, and laser cutting.

Laser Cutting Technology A plush cascade of shocking-scarlet ruffles embellish this Haute Couture creation by Chinese designer Guo Pei who, for her spring/summer collection, unveiled two theatrical tech-infused gowns adorned with fluorescent fabric and mesmerising lightemitting diodes (LED). When cut to perfection, ruffles add a swish flourish that can transform otherwise monotonous dresses, sleeves and trousers into sumptuous wardrobe staples. Guo Peiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s extravagant ensembles are renowned for redefining opulence with countless layers of sequins, exquisite hand embroidery and generous splashes of regal-red and halcyon-gold. The exuberant designer has also previously fashioned her own phosphorescent, woven gold fabric from metal fibres and silk thread.

Intricate detailing and superbly structured silhouettes continue to dominate Rami Al Ali Couture. For spring/summer, the coveted Syrian designer drew whimsical inspiration from Japanese culture and the sakura flower, thus producing a delicate and feminine aesthetic with a spectacular show of red carpet-ready gowns that were painstakingly adorned with dainty appliqué blooms in soft pastel shades. This enthralling champagne-saturated piece has been fully laser-cut in an impossibly sheer organza. It took 108 hours of workmanship by six highly skilled artisans to stitch the fantastical floral and pearl embellishments onto the geometric-shaped skirt that’s bespeckled with laser-cut custom patterns.

Nestled in the bewitching heart of Athens, Celia Kritharioti purposefully runs her illustrious namesake couture house, which was first founded by her ancestors in the early 20th Century. Seductive and sheer embellishments in scrumptious cotton candypink, sunflower-yellow and caramelised-bronze lent a sticky-sweet aftertaste to the spring/summer couture collection’s grandiose runway, which featured spaghetti-strap ball gowns and smashing off-the-shoulder necklines. Clean and sharp all-encompassing laser-cut designs in soft sapphire and café au lait-cream dominated many of Kritharioti’s refined two-piece ensembles, thus perfectly demonstrating how to achieve and maintain a modest and cultivated style as well as a simultaneously flirtatious contour.

74 Electronic Devices Featherweight organza and full-bodied layers of cotton mesh with synthetic thermoplastic (PVDF) bring Ying Gao’s otherworldly garments to life. Ethereal gowns are discreetly fitted with electronic devices and facial recognition software, which gifts the fantastical fabric a graceful robotic-like movement. Extraordinarily subtle, the ensemble stirs gently, as if breathing deeply. Although fitted with the most advanced technology currently available, each fragile piece flows like waves on water; a phenomenal example of how daring designs can surpass the boundaries of fashion and break into the esteemed world of art. Such a stand-out piece is one for those who enjoy making statements.

3D Fabrics Iris van Herpen is widely recognised as one of fashion’s most forwardthinking couturiers. Often hailed as a pioneer in utilising 3D printing as a garment construction technique, the Dutch designer introduced a soft hand-casted polyurethane (PU) material into her latest couture collection. Hand-painted with injection moulding, the fabric’s assembled using expandable laser-cut Mylar, which creates an optical illusion based on a tunnel of hypnotic repetitive patterns in black and white. Inarguably futuristic, Van Herpen’s experimentation with outlandish materials is often merged with luxurious textiles, including sheer silk tulle. More down-to-earth designs that combine artisanal craftsmanship with state-of-the-art technology are sure to come.

pH Monitors Dahea Sunâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s breathtaking peaches-and-cream Rain Palette collection boasts various shades of pastel purple, lavender and beauteous blue. This revolutionary designer has developed a series of delicate dyes, which are carefully soaked into fine silk and respond to the changing potential of hydrogen (pH) in rainwater. Each garment, embellished using digital textile printing methods and laser cutting techniques, gradually changes colour when it comes into contact with water. An avid environmentalist, Sun hopes her versatile design developments will serve as a poetic reminder about the importance of raising awareness about climate change, and be implemented into shade-shifting wearable sculptures and accessories.

A Return To Grandeur Chanel’s 2017 Métiers d’Art show celebrated the decadence of old-world Paris at one of the City of Light’s most iconic landmarks.

Hairstylist Sam McKnight took inspiration from the high society of the Thirties accesorising looped ponytails with silk flowers and net veils

Words by Mary Keenan. Images courtesy of Chanel, Coco Chanel portrait photographed by Shahrokh Hatami

F a sh i o n F eatu r e

On December 6, 2016, Karl Lagerfeld’s

Thirties – a time when Chanel lived at the

Métiers d’Art show for Chanel returned

Ritz, as well as a number of other eras.

home. Having previously been staged in

Chanel took up residence at the Place

a variety of far-flung locations including

Vendôme hotel in the early Twenties,

Rome, Salzburg, Dallas and Edinburgh,

moving out into a nearby townhouse

the House’s most recent pre-fall show

briefly, before returning to the Ritz in

took place at the newly refurbished Ritz

1935. Occupying a third-floor suite

Paris, strengthening the longstanding

comprising three rooms, overlooking the

ties and history between the two French

Vendôme column and square, she set

icons. Coco Chanel herself famously

about decorating her lodgings with her

resided at the Ritz – which backs on

own furniture and objet, which included

to the House’s 31 Rue Cambon atelier

Coromandel lacquered screens, crystal

– for more than 30 years. Titled Paris

lamps, a beige suede sofa and cherished

Cosmopolite, the collection recaptured

vermeil boxes gifted to her by the Duke

the glamour of Paris in the Twenties and

of Westminster. After days spent at her atelier, Chanel would dine at the hotel with friends, guests and clients including Salvador Dali, Jean Cocteau, Ernest Hemingway and F. Scott Fitzgerald. When the Second World War broke out in 1939, Chanel made the decision to temporarily shutter the brand and was also forced to give up her suite when the German army requisitioned the hotel in 1940. She was resettled into two smaller rooms at the back of the hotel, and divided her time between Paris and her properties on the Riviera and in Lausanne. 1954 marked her permanent return to the storied hotel. Chanel reopened her business and settled into rooms 304 and 305, which overlooked the courtyard garden. “I could have had the most beautiful apartment in the Ritz,” she told her friend Claude Delay. “I chose to live under the eaves. Three eaves: one for sleeping, one for chatting and one for bathing.” Chanel resided there until her death in early January 1971. Today the Ritz honours Chanel with the Coco Chanel suite. Situated on the second floor, the suite is a peaceful haven awash with calming shades of cream, beige and black. Sketches and photographs documenting her time there adorn the walls as well as motifs of wheat sheaves – a recurring theme in Chanel’s work. Lagerfeld’s 78-look Paris Cosmopolite show saw his cast of models and celebrity progeny sashay their way around dining

Shahrokh Hatami was one of only two photographers to photograph Gabrielle Chanel relaxing in her suite at the Ritz

tables set up in the hotel’s vast lobby and ground-floor public spaces with a panache that made it feel as if they

Top: The hotelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s lobby and public areas were transformed into a large dining room in which guests enjoyed dinner as the models strode through

Left: Highly detailed embroidery and embellishment featured heavily throughout the collection adding a vintage allure to the garments

were impeccably dressed familiar guests breezing through briskly. Wearing their hair in ponytails adorned with flowers and mesh netting, there was a youthful and vivacious spirit to the show, perhaps due in part to the many up-and-coming faces – Sofia Richie, Sistine Stallone, Selah Marley and Lily-Rose Depp, to name but a few – and also to the charming male dancers seated throughout the venue that leapt up at random to dance with the models as they passed by. Cara Delevingne opened the show in a rich cream suit embellished with camellia flowers and pearls, and as the models streamed through, the colour palette flitted between shades of gold, navy, red, black and powder pink. Uptown pencil skirt twinsets and trouser suits gave way to edgier, sporty wool puffer jackets worn with white-heeled brogues. Aside from the expected House tweeds, which were cut into heavy coats of varying colours, there were plenty of other fabrics and textures on show. Gold and silver sequins materialised into eye-catching cropped trouser suits, while super-soft wool was spun into cardigans, slouchy jumpers and scarves. Supple leather in a high-shine black was cut into Seventies-esque flared trousers and a coordinating military-style jacket, while velvet in a deep amber found its way onto the trouser part of a jumpsuit. Glimmering scale-like metallic pedal pushers with frayed tweed blazers and bouclé biker jackets were worn by some of the younger models. Then came the dresses – frothy, feathered and feminine and embellished with all manner of flowers, they varied in length from cutesy tiered knee-length dresses with frilled sleeves to incredibly beautiful floor-length gowns with flocked feathered skirts. This

collection

cherry-picked

and

reinterpreted carefully from different eras, which culminated in a wide array of looks that would prove fitting not only for the glamorous ladies who lunch and jet-setting guests that frequent the Ritz, but their daughters and granddaughters too. Such is the genius of Lagerfeld.

A large number of young models walked the show including French model and singer Sonia Ben Ammar and Cara Delevigne

C o u tu r e F o cus

After Show, Photographed by Sara Francia, Issue 12+1

The Crumbling Walls of Couture The borders of the exclusive realm of Haute Couture have been breached. We take a look at the advance of the democratisation of couture and whether the tide can ever be reversed.

Words by Natalie Trevis

Valentino takes guests back to their roots, staging their show in Piazza Mignanelli in Rome back in 2015

82 This year, the Palais Galliera pays homage

of slowing down. “Over the past few

fashion weeks – already thrown out of sync

to the couturier known as the designer’s

years, luxury has become increasingly

and into something of an existential crisis by

designer, Cristobal Balenciaga, with an

democratised,” says Vicki Loomes, senior

the experimentation of many brands with the

extra-mural exhibition at the Musée Bourdelle

analyst at TrendWatching. “It’s not just new

‘show-now-buy-now’ model – by showing

called Balenciaga, l’oeuvre au noir. Delving

influencers who can access once-covetable

during Paris Couture Week. Proenza

into Balenciaga’s archives to offer a stark

high fashion events. Now, everyday

Schouler and Rodarte recently announced

reminder of the exquisitely dark, structured

consumers can watch fashion shows as

plans to make the switch to show in Paris

creations of the alchemist of Haute Couture,

they happen, Insta-peek backstage antics,

in July, as has Monique Lhuillier, who will

the centenary tribute comes at the same

buy clothes straight from the runway and

present her spring/summer18 collection.

time as Demna Gvasalia’s autumn/winter17

customise products.” Couture has opened

Alberta Ferretti Limited staged its debut

ready-to-wear collection for the house, which

its doors: To the wider fashion world, to

show in July last year during Couture Week,

delivers a finale of nine jaw-dropping couture

consumers who no longer have to be fashion

joining other new faces showing off schedule,

outfits, with their origins steeped equally in

insiders, and to us. “I thought 100 years was

including Giles and Brioni, while Hermès

street-attitude and 1950s grandeur. This

a good reason to make couture available

presented its cruise collection. Givenchy

dichotomy between couture, old and new,

again,” said Gvasalia backstage at the show.

shows its select couture offering during its

the traditional viewed alongside the freedom

“We’re not going to do a couture line or show

ready-to-wear menswear shows – during

of the modern, couldn’t come at a more

during couture, but these pieces will be made

Tisci’s reign sported by model friends Liya

opportune time. Democratisation is knocking

to order – basically for people who want to

Kebede, Joan Smalls and Kendall Jenner – a

at Haute Couture’s door.

buy a couture dress from Balenciaga.”

time when Paris is buzzing with international

The relaxation of the formerly strict norms

Other ready-to-wear designers are seeking

editors as the men’s shows draw to a close

of the world of couture shows no signs

to cut through the noise of the bi-annual

and Couture Week begins. Not only does this provide a platform for main lines to align with the sensory wonder and craftsmanship of the couture shows, but it’s a lucrative sales period for pre-collections, a time when buyers traditionally spend up to 80 per cent of their budgets. It also allows brands that are akin to couture – consider the intricate confections of the Rodarte sisters – a few crucial extra weeks to finish production. As schedules mutate and collide, Paris Couture Week no longer belongs to the grand couturiers of The Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture. Indeed, today’s elaborate Haute Couture shows have little to do with the intimate salon presentations of decades gone by, when designers focused on the spending power of the client. “In the 1950s, Haute Couture was more affordable than it is today,” says Kerry Taylor, couture expert and author of Vintage Fashion & Couture, from Poiret to McQueen. “It was always expensive, but not insanely so, which is probably why there were larger numbers of couture clients.” Now, in the pursuit of column inches and millionairesses, front rows have expanded to include style icons, celebrities and fashionistas, whose attendance is requested based not on their desire or ability to purchase the clothes, but on the fact that they represent the aspirational nature of couture and (red carpet loan or otherwise) look a million dollars wearing it. Couture presentations have developed into multi-day branded events, often off schedule and in exotic locations, with Valentino treating guests to magical private tours of museums and galleries before a sunset show in Piazza Mignanelli in Rome, and Dolce&Gabbana presenting its

A sea of yellow tulle at Giambattista Valli’s spring/ summe17 Haute Couture show

Jean Paul Gaultier looks to gilded metals and regal embroidery for modern-day opulence

95-outift Alta Moda collection during sakura season at the Tokyo National Museum last month, amidst a decadent sea of cherry blossoms. Meanwhile, Jean Paul Gaultier is following in the footsteps of Jacquemus and Marques’Almeida in offering tickets to his next couture show to the public, in his case via an auction for charity Arms Around The World. All of this serves to build an emotional connection with couture: It lets people in. Yes, as the front row Snapchats its way through majestic couture events, a wider audience is allowed a glimpse into the formerly rarefied world of couture – and that doesn’t necessarily serve to diminish it. “There’s an interesting contradiction at play here,” notes Loomes. “As this ‘insider access’ allows people in, it also reinforces what makes ‘luxury’ special. Think about how the Dior & I documentary allowed viewers to see the creation of a couture show but also underscored the process that makes couture exceptional.” Social media might be the “laxative of the fashion system”, as described by Scott Galloway, founder and chairman of digital consultancy L2, causing trends and product to be digested by the public much faster, but couture’s purpose is the same as it has always been. That is to demonstrate the highest craftsmanship of ‘les petites mains’ – more than 200 Alberta Ferretti Limited makes the switch to Couture Week

of them in the case of Chanel – and the most daring flights of fancy of the designer at the helm. It allows a brand to dream.

Guo Pei maintains traditional couture elements with lavish embroidery and plush fabrics

Dior upholds its status as a couture heavyweight, drawing upon nature with luxe headpieces and romantic beading for their spring/ summer17 Haute Couture show

86 The women manifesting these tulle, silk and hand-beaded dreams are an elite band of no more than 4,000, predominantly from the Middle East, Russia, India, Brazil and China (an ever-growing super power in couture as the addition of Guo Pei – architect of Rihanna’s golden cape moment at the Met Gala – to the Paris Couture Week schedule attests). What matters for these royals, tech entrepreneurs and daughters of oligarchs alike, is not who attends the shows or conjures the wittiest hashtag, but the experience of having world-class experts craft a garment that is truly one-of-a-kind. “What I want are unique pieces, extravagant and chic,” an anonymous couture customer known only as Reem told Reuters in an interview. “I do not want to pay 5,000 or 6,000 euros for a dress, as happened to me with a Pucci outfit recently, and see it on somebody else the same evening.” Couture acts as a flagship discipline for a brand and, says Taylor, as a means to explore ideas that can be re-used in a more wearable form in prêt-à-porter. “Haute Couture for some time now has existed to raise the profile of the brand and promote sales of perfumes, cosmetics and accessories. It’s not expected to sell in high volumes – but the ready-to-wear line is.” By deliberately blurring the boundaries between couture and ready-to-wear, designers that offer both are able to stimulate demand for clothes with couture-like detail that will be accessible to

Newcomer Francesco Scognamiglio dreams up a juxtaposition of tough metal studs and feminine appliqués to satisfy the contemporary woman

One of the nine couture outfits from Balenciaga’s autumn/winter show

the public in stores and also build desire for

All eyes are on the women in Givenchy’s menswear show, as the designer introduces a rare selection of couture looks

custom couture items that really connect. “It was very important to communicate to the atelier that while couture must be about the dream, it mustn’t be costume,” said Maria Grazia Chiuri in January of her debut couture outing for Dior following her departure from Valentino. “The clothes have to be wearable.” Irreverence in couture isn’t new (Taylor recalls John Galliano’s controversial Haute Homeless Collection of 2000), yet what would previously have been unorthodox in couture continues to become the new normal. Luxe sneakers and denim are frequently given the couture treatment, while Viktor&Rolf opened their autumn/winter16 show with a Coca-Cola logoed sweatshirt before presenting an upcycled collection built from repurposed archival materials (dare we say scraps?). Emerging couture players like Francesco Scognamiglio and Yacine Aouadi have recently presented such treasures as a PVC mink-topped coat and bejewelled bike shorts, bringing both sartorial relevance and a crucial sense of humour to the couture runways. This is a key aspect in the recent growth of couture, as a much younger client base seeks to transcend the traditional couture purchase of a gown for a red carpet event or society wedding and introduce the same level of luxury – way beyond the banal – into everyday life. Today’s couture isn’t an implausible hypothesis, but speaks to the way we really dress. “Wearing a top-to-toe, off-the-runway look is passé,” says Loomes. “Now, to show status, it’s important to show you can mix and match couture, vintage, high-street and more to create a unique look. Individuality is a bigger source of status than simply wearing couture.”

schedule completely this year, choosing to

an influence that reaches both into the past

The very thing we love about fashion is its

present directly to clients instead, but this

and into the future, bringing with it ancient

ability to transmute, adapt and translate our

was a decision driven by a need to take a

techniques of artisanal craftsmanship to

desires as they move with the times. In this

break from the pressure of hosting eight

mesh with technological innovation. In that

way, the notion of the private couture salon

runway shows a year, not by a desire to

sense, the currency of couture will always

known only to a handful of ultra-high net

rekindle the secrecy of the couture of the past.

remain priceless. “In an increasingly digital

worth women no longer holds the cachet it

“Couture taps into the pursuit of status –

world, where there’s renewed emphasis

once did. It doesn’t feel current or dynamic –

a quest that drives so much of consumer

on artisanal and handmade items, couture

in truth, we don’t like being left out – and, in

behaviour,” says Loomes. “That desire is

items will still allow the wearer to express

that sense, the democratisation of couture,

never going to go away, what changes is

taste and wealth,” says Loomes. As

regardless of whether we can afford to buy

the way individuals choose to display their

designers tentatively welcome us into the

it or not, feels right for our times. “Brands

status.” Through this somewhat narcissistic

incomparable skills, ideas and reflectivity

and traditional fashion publications have

prism, the couture garments themselves may

of couture – now colliding with ready-to-

often seen this disruption as a threat, as it

prove less important than our experience of

wear in timing and often concept – as well

usurps their authority,” notes Loomes. “But

the wider brand: The spectacle, the promise,

as adapt to the changing needs of the

it’s actually creating more diversity within

and all those covetable handbags, fragrances

couture customer, the benefits flood down

fashion, and opening up more open and

and accessories that filter downwards

to every consumer of fashion. For the first

honest conversations that will – ultimately

from the top of the fashion pyramid. Yet,

time, the unassailable walls of couture have

– be beneficial for brands.” Indeed, there

as the art of couture continues to adapt

been scaled and its guardians compelled to

seems to have been little push back. Atelier

to fluctuations in the nature of the fashion

consider couture’s future in relation to the

Versace has stepped off the couture show

industry, we must not forget that it retains

wider world. This is the era of couture for all.

R e f i n e ry R e i m ag i n e d A midsummer night’s dream is modernised through bold folds, fragrant colour pairings and myriad materials that symbolise couture’s new direction.

Photographed by Fedor Bitkov Styled by Camille-Joséphine Teisseire

Top and jacket, GIORGIO ARMANI PRIVÃ&#x2030;

Jumpsuit and belt, ZUHAIR MURAD

Cape, ALEXIS MABILLE

Jacket and skirt, JEAN PAUL GAULTIER

Suit, ZUHAIR MURAD | shoes, ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER

Top and skirt, MAISON MARGIELA

Dress, GIAMBATTISTA VALLI

Dress, ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER

Model: Jip Boxstart at Supreme Management Makeup artist: David Lenhardt Hair stylist: Kazuko Kitaoka Set designer: Nicolas Lanteri Photography assistant: Thomas Clodine Styling assistant: Heidi Feldman Set design assistant: Brice Lartigue Team assistant: Stanislas Alleaume Casting director: Nicolas Bianciotto Videography (watch on MOJEH.com): Hector Albouker Local production: Emilie Couput Post production: UNO Postproduction Production: Louis Agency

Dress, REDEMPTION

Coat in red wool tweed, CHANEL

Wild

Awakening Setting the tone for fall, twinkling tweeds and medallion necklaces lie heavy on the seasonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s typically airy styles. Weave gold into whites and creams for warmth and let tousled, textured trimmings remain raw.

Photographed by Pelle Lannefors Styled by Kelly Baldwin

Sweater in black wool embroidered with gold thread and chain tassel necklace in golden metal, CHANEL | Face throughout: Complexion, Les Beiges Healthy Glow Luminous Colour Medium Light | Eyes, Les Beiges Healthy Glow Natural Eyeshadow Palette | Lips, Rouge Coco Stylo NÂ°227 Equisse

Jacket in black and off-white wool tweed with a leather collar and skirt in off-white wool tweed embroidered with tweed flowers and faux pearls, CHANEL

Dress in off-white viscose embellished with jewelled buttons, chain tassel necklace in golden metal and bronze Chanelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Gabrielle bag in leather, CHANEL

Coat in black, beige and gold fantasy tweed, pumps in black leather, chain tassel necklace in golden metal and mesh ribbon bracelet in golden metal, CHANEL

Jacket in multi-colour tweed embellished with fringes and pant-suit in black and gold jersey, CHANEL

Jacket in off-white wool tweed embroidered with tweed flowers and faux pearls, trousers in black wool embroidered with gold thread, Oxford shoes in white patent leather and multi-strand sautoir in golden metal embellished with faux pearls, CHANEL

Coat in black cashmere with a satin collar and Key to Paris brooch, CHANEL

Model: Magdalena Nowicka Makeup artist: Toni Malt Hair stylist: Ania Poniatowska Styling assistant: Sophie Pasztor Videography (watch on MOJEH.com): Viktor Sloth Location: Al Zorah, a project by Solidere International. Special thanks to their team.

Haute Heights Staking claim to an edgier existence, accessories offer an avenue to express rebellion. White gold sharpens denim and leather while rose and yellow groupings recall Eighties excess.

Photographed by Tibi Clenci Styled by Camille-Josephine Teisseire

PanthĂ¨re de Cartier watch in steel, Just un Clou bracelet in white gold with diamonds, Love bracelet in white gold with diamonds and Ecrou de Cartier bracelet in white gold, CARTIER Top and trousers, ISABEL MARANT

Panthère de Cartier watch in yellow gold, Just un Clou ring in white gold, Just un Clou ring in yellow gold, Just un Clou ring in yellow gold with diamonds, Just un Clou earrings in yellow gold, Panthère de Cartier watch in steel, Just un Clou bracelet in white gold with diamonds, Love bracelet in white gold with diamonds, Ecrou de Cartier bracelet in white gold, CARTIER Claire wears sleeveless jacket, trousers belt and shoes, SAINT LAURENT Melissa wears bodysuit, ERMANNO SCERVINO | sleeveless jacket, TOMMY HILFIGER | tights, WOLFORD | shoes, LOUIS VUITTON

PanthĂ¨re de Cartier watch in steel, Just un Clou bracelet in white gold with diamonds, Love bracelet in white gold with diamonds, Ecrou de Cartier bracelet in white gold, Just un Clou ring in white gold, Just un Clou ring in yellow gold, Just un Clou ring in yellow gold with diamonds and Just un Clou earrings in yellow gold, CARTIER Claire wears top, DRIES VAN NOTEN | trousers, LANVIN | shoes, ELLERY Melissa wears dress and shoes, LOUIS VUITTON | tights, WOLFORD

PanthĂ¨re de Cartier watch in yellow gold, Just un Clou bracelet in yellow gold, Love bracelet in yellow gold with diamonds, Ecrou de Cartier bracelet in pink gold and Just un Clou bracelet in pink gold, CARTIER Claire wears top, A.F. Vandevorst | jacket and trousers, ELLERY Melissa wears top and trousers, ISABEL MARANT | tights, WOLFORD

PanthĂ¨re de Cartier watch in yellow gold, Just un Clou bracelet in yellow gold, Love bracelet in yellow gold with diamonds and Just un Clou earrings in yellow gold, CARTIER Dress, cap and shoes, BALENCIAGA

PanthĂ¨re de Cartier watch in steel, Just un Clou ring in white gold, Just un Clou ring in yellow gold, Just un Clou ring in white gold with diamonds, Just un Clou bracelet in white gold with diamonds, Love bracelet in white gold with diamonds and Ecrou de Cartier bracelet in white gold, CARTIER T-shirt, denim jacket, leather jacket and skirt, SAINT LAURENT

PanthĂ¨re de Cartier watch in steel, Love bracelet in white gold with diamonds and Ecrou de Cartier bracelet in white gold, CARTIER Top, jacket, shorts and shoes, VERSUS VERSACE | tights, WOLFORD

Models: Melissa Stasiuk at Next Management Claire Rousseau at IMG Models Hair stylist: Henry Olivier Makeup artist: Maniasha Styling assistant: Heidi Feldman Production: Louis Agency PanthĂ¨re de Cartier watch in steel, CARTIER Jacket and trousers, GIVENCHY

122

Christian Dior Haute Couture spring15 photographed by Sophie Carre

Christian Dior Haute Couture Spring 1956 photographed by Laziz Hamani

THE INS P IR ATION

A Guide To The

Galaxie Christian Dior Haute Couture Spring 17 photographed by Sophie Carre

Dior’s highly exclusive Grand Bal Piéce Unique Galaxie collection of timepieces consists of 10 one-of-a-kind watches that look to the stars.

Grand Bal Piéce Unique Galaxie watches draw on Monsieur Dior’s fascination with destiny and his love of constellations, with details from previous couture and ready to wear collections, including designs by Raf Simons and Maria Grazia Chiuri.

The Galaxie Andromeda model sees yellow gold, diamonds and opals set within a yellow gold case. It is fitted with an automatic movement, including the exceptional Dior Inverse 11 1/2 calibre, adorned with marquisecut, triangle-cut and round-cut diamonds.

Christian Dior Haute Couture spring 1950 photographed by Laziz Hamani

Christian Dior Haute Couture Autumn 1951 photographed by Laziz Hamani

Each watch has a colourful patent calfskin leather strap that fastens with a yellow gold prong buckle, set with round-cut diamonds and an etched constellation concealed on the caseback of the watch.

The Galaxie Dorado features an exquisite dial set with sapphire crystals, adorned with yellow gold inserts that are decorated by an engraving of the Dorado constellation, all housed within a case set with baguette-cut, roundcut and rose-cut diamonds.

124

Hau t e tr en ds

Turning For

Turquoise The Colour: Jump into the blue with a refreshing wash of colour for cool summer styling. We dive into the season with a vibrant jolt of colour through all things azure. The captivating hue works to provide balance and harmony, presenting a calming effect that helps provide clarity. Its uplifting effect encourages creativity and promotes spiritual connectivity. Jewellery designer David Morris chose to focus his new collection on the rare Brazilian Paraiba tourmaline for its incredible turquoise colouring. His Paraiba watch features rose-cut diamonds with a micro diamond and Paraiba set case in 18-karat white gold with leather strap and domed glass. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s paired beautifully with stunning pear-shaped earrings featuring 12.71 carats of Paraiba tourmalines and surrounding 13.45 carats of marquise-cut diamonds. The summery shade merges seamlessly with most accompanying colours and is intensified against luxe silver metals.

Rose cut diamond 36mm watch with micro diamond and Paraiba set case in 18-karat white gold with leather strap and domed glass and pear-shape earrings featuring 12.71 carats of Paraiba tourmalines and 13.45 carats of marquise-cut diamond surrounds, DAVID MORRIS

The Bloom Of

Wendy Yue The Designer: Enchanting stones combine with thoughtprovoking design to create a tale of grandeur. The architectural symphony of Wendy Yue’s inspiring designs highlights the intricacy of craftsmanship involved in every design. With each piece constructed around its own rarefied stone – chosen for its unique charm – the wide spectrum of colour elevates its overall appeal. “A great piece of gold without the right colour may only live in the shadows,” states Yue. Her aesthetic is organic, looking to nature for design inspiration and combining a manifold of elements to create depth and dimension. “I love nature – animals, insects and flowers,” she explains. “I was fascinated with all their variations; each stood out in their own way, yet could perfectly harmonise with the other flowers around it.” Using a multitude of techniques, such as stone carving, enamel and handmade wax mouldings, Words by Sophie Pasztor

she completes her masterpieces. “The techniques may be basic but how to combine techniques and use them to realise the [design] idea is truly the real mastery of production.”

Necklace and ring, WENDY YUE

126

Compiled by Sophie Pasztor

HIGH NOTES

GEORGES HOBEIKA

1 2

Blushing Blooms Jewellery designers serve up a bouquet of florals, moulded from precious metals and embellished with a soft flurry of stones. Whimsical depictions of enchanted gardens captivate the eye, while feminine blush tones allude to a new romance.

1. CVSTOS | 2. ROBERTO COIN | 3. DIOR | 4. S*UCE ROCKS | 5. CHAUMET

128

ALEXIS MABILLE

4 3

Violet Vision Deep violet presents an element of mystique and commands power, offering with it a regal quality, paired perfectly with metals in rich golden tones and worked into stately designs with oversized gems.

1. HUBLOT | 2. DIOR | 3. CHOPARD | 4. ROBERTO COIN | 5. GEMFEILDS

130

Hau t e h o r o l o gy

Audemars Piguetâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Royal Oak Frosted Gold is a shining reinvention of an iconic design, featuring a hammered 18-carat pink gold case and silver-toned dial

Ra d i u m G

MOJEH investigates why the value of women’s high-end watch sales have skyrocketed in the Middle East.

Words by Annie Darling

The newest additions to Boucheron’s exquisite Epure d’Art collection, the Cypris watches, pay homage to swans and, by doing so, celebrate femininity and love

132 The simplicity of the ultra-thin Altiplano watch by Piaget conceals great horological sophistication, accentuated by a gold set with brilliant-cut diamonds

The last few years have been challenging for the watch industry. In 2016, sales of luxury Swiss timepieces nosedived by 10 per cent following a crackdown on corruption in China. The Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry estimated that last year’s exports fell by more than AED 7.3 billion, no doubt because of the decline in sales by the Chinese, who had been buying timepieces to grease the wheels of politics in the world’s second-largest economy. Add into the mix various terror attacks throughout Europe, which cast a long shadow over the region’s tourism and luxury retail market, as well as currency calculations that produced a stronger franc and dollar, and 2016 concluded as the worst year for the Swiss watch industry since the aftermath of the global financial crisis in 2009. One

sector

has,

however,

shown

extraordinary (and unexpected) growth: women’s timepieces in the Middle East. In 2016, according to the market research company Euromonitor International, the price of luxury female watch sales in the region skyrocketed by 9 per cent year over year. A remarkable figure, especially Classic yet sporty, Tag Heuer’s Carrera timepiece is practical and stylish, with rose gold-plated markers and a black titanium carbidecoated steel case

when compared to the value of women’s timepieces internationally, which increased by an unimpressive 1 per cent. MOJEH first reported that watchmakers were beginning to concentrate on the female market in the first edition of the Jewellery and Watches Issue (Treasures Of Our Time) in 2015, although it’s taken a few years for industry experts to fully embrace the concept that women care about craftsmanship just as much as they do about decorative embellishments. Despite this neglect, it seems that the lack of options for women, as well as the region’s tumultuous economic forecast, hasn’t dampened the affluent Middle Eastern woman’s burgeoning interest in haute horlogerie. Rémy Julia has acquired over 10 years of professional experience working with luxury brands, and was appointed as Christie’s Dubai’s regional specialist for watches in 2014. He’s witnessed an increase in interest among female buyers, but adds that timepieces continue to be auctioned predominantly to male collectors. “When we sell watches, we primarily see men in the auction room,” he admits, before adding: “Although we’ve certainly had an increase in affluent ladies walking into the auction room

The latest version of A. Lange & Söhne’s most popular women’s timepiece, Lange 1 Moon Phase, has a polished pink-gold case and elegant agenté-coloured dial

over the last few years.” Christie’s Dubai has subsequently added additional women’s watches to the art catalogue. “I’ve seen a lot of ladies become frustrated that we

A true testament to 195 years of renowned watchmaking history at Bovet 1822, the Virtuoso VIII is limited to only 39 timepieces in either red or white gold

mostly offer men’s watches,” he concedes.

“More women are becoming interested in

credited with helping to drive sales, adds

“There wasn’t much for them to purchase.

sophisticated and mechanical timepieces.”

Richomme. “The challenges of the watch

Well, unless they wanted to buy a gift for

Anne-Claire Richomme, marketing manager

industry haven’t affected the Middle Eastern

their husband,” he chuckles.

of Tag Heuer Middle East, agrees. “Where

woman’s purchase power. Some women put

Christie’s Dubai’s latest watch auction in

watches were once considered a fashion

on a different watch every day to go along

March collated 184 exclusive timepieces

accessory, women nowadays are interested

with their various occasions, from weddings

from the world’s most reputable brands, of

in knowing more about the technicality of the

and dinners to business meetings.”

which nearly one quarter featured women’s

product and watches are providing a certain

A traditionally masculine brand known for

designs. A lady’s timepiece by Boucheron

status, as has always been the case for men.”

creating highly complicated movements,

set with over 26 carats of pink, yellow,

Despite recent research, Schmid insists that

A. Lange & Söhne are embracing more

fancy and white diamonds was included,

this enthusiasm isn’t limited to the Middle

feminine designs. One of the seven debuts

alongside a Girard-Perregaux creation with

East. “We are witnessing a global trend,”

presented at this year’s Salon International

an estimated value of up to AED 1.7 million.

he asserts. “Our customers in this region

de la Haute Horlogerie Genève (SIHH) were

This blossoming, albeit niche, demand

are part of a growing worldwide community

two models crafted exclusively for women:

for exceptional timepieces is flourishing

of knowledgeable watch aficionados who

The Little Lange 1 Moon Phase in pink gold

because women are educating themselves

share a love for mechanical perfection and

with a guilloche dial, and a 25-millimetre

about the industry, says Wilhelm Schmid,

consummate craftsmanship. Here, like the

Saxonia in white and pink gold with a

chief executive officer of A. Lange & Söhne.

rest of the world, more and more women are

mother-of-pearl dial. Although an appetite

“Knowledge of the watch technology, as

entering the once exclusively male domain.”

for women’s mechanical watches is making

well as quality awareness, have increased

The desire for a wardrobe of watches,

a comeback, brand director of Roger Dubuis

over the last few years,” he explains.

instead of just one timepiece, can also be

for the Middle East and India tells MOJEH

134 Framed by an 18-carat white gold case, the mother-of-pearl dial of Chopard’s Happy Diamonds Joaillerie model perfectly complements five tiny ruby hearts

that, for the majority, it continues to be about style. “Women in this region have an acute knowledge about fashion and jewellery,” says Jean-Sébastien Berland. “These two worlds are pivotal in their search for the perfect watch to grace their wrists.” The Geneva-based watchmaker’s collaboration with couture shoemaker Massaro is particularly popular, and the Maison has subsequently gained a reputation for designing beautifully engineered women’s watches that utilise high-grade materials alongside

stereotypical

‘masculine’

movements, including tourbillions. However, the region also maintains a welldocumented preference for bejewelled pieces strewn with gemstones, as well as timepieces that feature traditional motifs, including horses and falconry. Chanel, Cartier, and Van Cleef & Arpels are among the leaders in merging the technical aspect of a well-executed timepiece with these popular aesthetics. That being said, rather than being superficial buyers dazzled by the promise of diamonds, Schmid tells MOJEH that A. Lange & Söhne’s female clients are often the most demanding and Dior’s spectacular timepieces are exceptionally creative and often take inspiration from the fashion house’s most elaborate Haute Couture creations

difficult to please. “Women in general have the highest expectations for a piece’s design and functionality.” Society’s shift in favour of women’s earning power contributes to this phenomenon, he explains. “The social changes of the past decades have opened new practical possibilities for women. Today, there are more successful women – entrepreneurs and managers – who buy their own timepieces. For this growing group, a watch is a tangible expression of confidence, sovereignty and style.” Julia agrees. Mechanical watches for women have been available for centuries – Breguet’s 1812 wristwatch for Caroline Murat, Napoleon’s sister and the Queen of Naples, is a prime example – but, this was followed by a sharp decline in supply, as well as demand, after the Quartz Crisis of the Seventies and Eighties. Julia believes that the recently resuscitated fascination with women’s watches is part of a larger trend that’s engrossing the luxury sector. “The demand for an exclusive piece is hitting the whole luxury fashion industry,” he argues. “As consumers, we’re looking to distinguish ourselves. You want to wear a piece that you’ve hunted for and that’s not available in stores. By wearing something like that, you’re letting

Chanel has launched its traditionally black ceramic J12 watch in an immaculate and opalescent white, with a supple link strap that celebrates masculine style

everyone know that you’re a trendsetter.” In a packed bidding room at Christie’s Hong Kong last year, a 12-inch Hermès Birkin matte Himalayan crocodile handbag set with

The Panthère de Cartier watch in steel has a signature style; an imposing icon from the Eighties that boasts a refined and minimalist extraflat movement

245 diamonds. weighing close to 10 carats,

in the region. Last year, Hublot introduced

interest in high-end luxury timepieces.”

was sold (in a mere four minutes) to a private

two limited-edition women’s watches

It’s no secret that the watch industry has

collector for AED 1.1 million. “This trend isn’t

that are only available in Dubai. One, for

long catered for men. For women, the

limited to handbags,” explains Julia. “It’s

instance, is the Classic Fusion Lady Dubai

complete opposite has been true. However,

also present in watches.” Yasmina Khoudja,

priced at AED 132,000, and decorated

recent research would suggest that a

general manager for Chopard Middle East,

with sapphires, amethysts and green

cornerstone is within eyesight, and that

concurs. “The Middle East embraces a

tsavorites. Other companies, meanwhile,

we’re on the brink of reviving the women’s

culture of luxury and the women in this region

have tried to take advantage of the region’s

watch sector indefinitely. The Middle East

appreciate and desire high-end watches and

excitement with exclusive marketing

is a gilded melting pot of opulence for

jewellery because it’s a sign of distinction,”

partnerships, which are often conceived

visitors from China and Russia, as well as

she explains. The Maison’s diamond-

by female watch connoisseurs themselves.

the West, and with events such as Dubai

drenched L’Heure du Diamant collection,

Tag Heuer’s new international woman

Watch Week and the Doha Jewellery and

she confesses, has been remarkably

ambassador, for example, is the 20-year-

Watches Exhibition drawing in thousands

successful in the region. “For women, it

old supermodel of Palestinian descent, Bella

each year, it’s no surprise that the Middle

will always be a matter of aesthetics as

Hadid. “Women within the watch industry

Eastern woman is the first of her gender to

well as an appreciation of the craftwork

are working hard to educate the market

be educated on the finer points of haute

involved. They always look for novelties

about the wealth of options available, as

horlogerie. Hopefully, this enthusiasm

and exclusive pieces. In other regions, such

well as women in the media who often

for the craftsmanship of complications

as Europe, women’s tastes differ as they

get unique insights into market trends

will spread, and soon, extraordinary

prefer more simple and modest models.”

and buying patterns,” says Richomme.

women’s timepieces will become the new

Unique versions of timepieces also resonate

“This has definitely led to an increased

norm, rather than a treasured exception.

136

tal k ing p o i nt

Better Late As e-commerce and see-now-buy-now seek to shave time off design processes, we ask - does true luxury come with a wait?

The notion of luxury isn’t something new – it’s as old as time. Employing rhetoric around exclusivity and authenticity, luxury is found in everything from the prized portraits sketched by the old art masters to Cartier’s fabled, fiery Burmese ruby brooch, which auctioned for AED 31,000,000 at Christie’s. What is new and ever evolving is our appreciation of luxury. Scarcity shaped its face during the 1990s, with waiting lists and a limited distribution strategy making it possible for

Words by Laura Beaney

handbags like the Hermès Birkin and Fendi Baguette to rise to ‘IT bag’ status, sending prospective buyers into a fevered frenzy. But, with the ascent of e-commerce and increased production and availability, attitudes surrounding luxury shifted once more, and instantaneous gratification became the new marker of the elite. Travel became faster with Uber Chopper attaining greater prestige than a ride on the Orient Express, while see-nowbuy-now shaved time off from the fashion design process, and FarFetch.com’s mobile application enabled shoppers to purchase an 18-karat white gold ring for AED 290,000, handcrafted by Loree Rodkin herself, with a simple push on a screen. Somewhere along the line, with designers doing their best to keep up with instant demand, the sense of exclusivity associated with fast luxury got

The Émeraude en Majesté collection by Van Cleef & Arpels combined over 1,400 carats of emeralds, originating from Colombia, Zambia and antique jewels, which took over 10 years to amass

lost. Those seeking to distinguish themselves from the masses looked to what is neither fast nor readily available in order to differentiate themselves, and so, we entered into a new understanding of luxury, where value is once again attributed to the wait. This concept is none more apparent than in high and fine jewellery, an industry that challenges our perceptions of what the term ‘luxury’ might actually mean in an increasingly fast-paced, instant-access consumer culture. High fashion was fast on the uptake of e-commerce and jewellery naturally followed, although without the same instantaneous success. Tiffany & Co, Fabergé that made the transition successfully, but others, cautious of revealing the gilded world behind their Place Vendome doors, opted to partner with e-tailers like Net-aPorter, whose most expensive offering is an AED 166,758 handcrafted silver bracelet by Amrapali, featuring 18.51 carats of ice white

Van Cleef & Arpels are known for sourcing extremely rare stones and resetting and redesigning storied pieces to reflect the desires of new clients

diamonds, interspersed with emeralds and tanzanites. On an emotional level, buying this piece online is a far cry from the euphoria evoked by having your name reach the top

Images courtesy of Natasha Collis and Van Cleef & Arpels

and Bulgari are some of the early adopters

With This Rock, photographed by Federico de Angelis, MOJEH Issue 14

138 of a several-year waiting list – so, how does

the energy emitted by an ivy-green emerald.

the scale of production. But, with all this

fine jewellery fare in a digital world?

“Customised jewellery and the desire for rare

pressure on the designers, is the end result

According to data compiled by Research

stones will always be a luxury for those who

compromised? “I don’t think e-commerce

and Markets, the global jewellery market

have a passion for jewels and uniqueness.

is negative, and I have a collection that is

is expected to reach AED 944 billion this

Getting a rare gem will never be satisfying

diverse enough to do both,” says Natasha

year, but the online fine jewellery market

over the net,” maintains Kholoud Osama

Collis, whose signature, handcrafted

currently accounts for just a small slice of

Kurdi, a Saudi Arabian jewellery designer

18-karat gold nuggets are inspired by

this, amounting to just 4 to 5 per cent. One

who retails her brand, Toujours, at S*uce

Ibiza’s sweeping landscapes and glistening

reason that jewellers like De Beers, Cartier,

Rocks. “A stone lover would want to share

sunlight. “Online offers a fantastic shop

and Chaumet might have resisted selling

all the scenes in choosing the right stone,

window that puts me in front of a global

online is the sterile shopping experience;

physically seeing and touching it. Allure, lustre

audience that may otherwise be difficult to

it feels cold and distant compared to the

and fire will never show in a static image or

reach, and we do good business with many

affection and attention bestowed upon a

even in a video.”

of my pieces on sites such as FarFetch.

prospective buyer walking into the private

In luxury, we see a current feud between

com, and my own website, natashacollis.

room at Chopard. Another is the decision-

technology, innovation and traditional

com.” Designers like Collis are able to exist

making process – no matter how high the

craftsmanship, with brands striving to add

online because they’re not replicating their

clarity of a screen, the digital world is yet to

sustenance and personalisation to the online

works for multiple stores across the globe.

relay the true lure of a flawless diamond or

shopping experience, while constantly upping

In jewellery, as with art, when you expose your taste, you expose yourself, but one service that cannot translate seamlessly is bespoke design, an offering that, if available, will be heavily diluted without a personal interaction. Some jewellery designers will surely shape their practises in alignment with fashion’s shrinking time frames, but for most, this isn’t possible. At the heart of luxury, there is a sense that the most desirable things cannot be made quickly. And, in high jewellery, exceptional craftsmanship, an unwavering criterion of luxury, is taken to a level that cannot be hurried or replicated by a machine. As Collis points out, “The longer you have to wait for something, the more allure it tends to have.” Consider Van Cleef & Arpels’ recent Émeraude en Majesté high jewellery collection, which saw rare stones from Colombia to Zambia come together in a display that included over 1,400 carats of deep-hued emeralds. Each stone was painstakingly sourced by the Maison’s gemmologists in a process that took over 10 years to complete. It’s a time frame that their dedicated following was prepared to endure, because for their customers, it’s about more than just consumption. “From my experience, all admirers of jewellery and art collectors seek exclusive creations and the rarest of stones – especially in this region,” explains Alessandro Maffi, managing director at Van Cleef & Arpels Middle East and India. “The Maison has always adopted a ‘no compromise’ attitude and all of our creations embody rare emotions, using the most precious of stones and a unique story to tell.” And, stories are another crucial ingredient in the luxury mix, with designers relaying their heritage tales to

These handmade pieces are designed to be casual but boast serious gems such as white, black, grey, brown and pink diamonds, rubies, emeralds, sapphires, tourmalines or spinels that interact to create a magical spectrum of colours

create meaning. Purveyors of high jewellery purchase a piece of illustrious history:

Collaborating with Gemfields, Natasha Collis created a one-off piece using their stones. With over seven carats set into a mix of solid 18-karat yellow gold and 18-karat rose gold, this magnificent design travelled around the world on tour for the launch of Gemfield’s latest ethical emerald mine

Émeraude en Majesté celebrates Van

“Buying a rare stone or piece where this kind

Cleef & Arpels’s longstanding legacy with

of trust has been established between the

emeralds and the royals – like Empress

two parties is part of the preciousness of

Farah Pahlavi and HH Princess Salimah Aga

handmade jewellery.”

Khan – that wore them. It’s an invaluable

Technology clearly has its place in

connection cemented across decades and

streamlining processes and opening up

by looking back into their archives in order

emerging designers to a greater audience,

to move forward, the Maison is shying away

but today’s luxury continues to be defined

from the demand for newness and the

by narrative, quality and a process worth

continuous barrage of products we have

waiting for. Undoubtedly, e-commerce is

recently been confronted with.

here to stay and jewellery must find a way

One process that cannot be expedited

to make peace with the emotional aspect

or replicated online is the intimate

of the purchasing process. Looking to

relationship between designer and client,

the future, we might see a new league of

like in the cases of Van Cleef & Arpels

artisans emerge, setting new standards for

and The Duchess of Windsor, or Cartier

the future of craft and luxury with unique

and Grace Kelly. It takes time for this kind

wares, designed in sync with the online

of relationship to evolve, but the result of

buying process. Essentially, luxury is fluid

such a bond produces the most desirable

– it’s not about the cost, craft or even rarity

pieces. “It becomes personal,” says Collis.

of something, it’s about how you value it.

Natasha Collis’ designs each possess their own individual character. Her signature irregular, hand-melted, 18-karat gold nuggets form the basis of her collection

140

M o j eh Scen ts

The House of Dior opens a new chapter in the story of J’adore - we discover In Joy.

J’adore In Joy is crafted around the legendary flora, which the original J’adore is known and loved for – jasmine sambac, neroli and tuberose. It takes its salty note from the inclusion of ylang-ylang

The glass is so fine that the fluidity of the fragrance inside becomes a tangible, living matter. The convex base infuses the peachy gold light throughout the bottle

“There’s a certain pleasure to be found in the J’adore family, but with J’adore In Joy you go a little further, to new extremes,” explains François Demachy, Dior’s perfumer-creator, who we met in the south of France in January. We had taken the journey across to Grasse – the region of choice for Dior perfumes and many other couture brands such as Louis Vuitton and Chanel – a floral paradise in which some of the world’s most notable fragrances have been born out of its heavenly jasmines and roses, to discover the newest addition to the house’s fragrance cabinet. “This fragrance can be exhilarating – everyone who has tried it has the same comment: ‘It’s awakening’,” says Demachy, the master behind scents such as Eau Sauvage and Miss Dior Cherie. “In fact, when I was researching, I had in mind something radiant – a scent that people would find joy in. We wanted to translate that much-needed emotion into something new. The way J’adore in Joy is perceived is a matter for everyone to find out.” We found ourselves at the heart of the city, Les Fontaines Parfumées (where sits Demachy’s creative laboratory), navigating our way around In Joy, which at the time still lay a secret locked deep inside Grasse’s fictional floral walls. The new scent is crafted around the legendary flora, which the original J’adore is known and loved for – jasmine sambac, neroli and tuberose. But the point of departure comes with the additional and heady note of Madagascar’s ylang-ylang, plucked from the fields of Africa and then custom crafted in Grasse to Demachy’s exact liking. Infused with the existing notes, the ylang-ylang releases a salty accord, evoking a new and spirited charm. “The idea came to me while cooking,” he explains. “I wanted to use salt in the same way you would cuisine, as an enhancer, to reveal and accentuate all the different tastes.”

Madagascar’s ylang-ylang is custom crafted in Grasse to Demachy’s exact liking. Infused with the existing notes, the ylang-ylang releases a salty accord

142 Novel, surprising and in abundance of bliss.

wanted to approach it as an opportunity

The alchemy is a stunning one and referred

to rejuvenate the J’adore story – invent a

to as ‘a new imaginary flower’ due to the

new taste for our woman,” he continues.

blend of tangible ingredients, which meld

“Usually a fragrance takes two years to

together to create a fresh yet intangible

develop but Joy was with us in one, as

harmony of sweet saltiness. “It’s more of

I knew what I wanted – it was just about

an impression – you feel it rather than smell

discovering it. In the end I found a molecule

it,” Demachy explains. “The salt isn’t a

that already existed in ylang-ylang, which

natural ingredient or one a particular flora

helped boost the flavour.”

can lay claim to, rather it’s an ideal that

Demachy may be of the belief that you

I’ve created – an imaginary flower.” His

can’t lock a fragrance down to a particular

ideal is generous, jubilant and stands tall

season – “I don’t think it’s possible to

as the new lead in the J’adore family. Not

perceive a fragrance quite as precisely

necessarily for a different audience, but

as that,” he says – but the aroma lends

rather capturing the more audacious side

itself naturally towards a spring or summer

to the existing J’adore woman (expressed

month due to its uplifting nature (ylang-

by Charlize Theron, who fronts Joy’s

ylang and jasmine being the fresher of

campaign). “There’s never a bad time

accords). On second thoughts, though,

to create a new fragrance, but we also

the crispness of the salt takes us back

The original J’adore woman, Charlize Theron, fronts the campaign for the newest scent in the storied line

“I had in mind something radiant – a scent that people would find joy in. We wanted to translate that much-needed emotion into something new,” says François Demachy

to icy winter days spent along a bitterly cold coastline, breathing in fresh, sea air. Perhaps Demachy is right; attaching a fragrance to a season is too personal and interchangeable a thing – especially for one with as complex a character as Joy. “When perfumers work, we continually doubt everything as we’re blind in the process,” Demachy explains. “We can’t see or feel if something is working; we can only rely on intuition and comments from others. We need words to make the aromas seem physical, even if they’re negative ones.” Yet there’s nothing undesirable about J’adore In Joy, from the intoxicating alchemy that envelops the skin with floras and then leaves a headier note of salt, to the light diffusing peach and gold bottle, which allows In Joy to manifest itself. “Fragrance can express a person’s personality, and in just the same way can be used as a screen to shy behind,” Demachy concludes. Either way, joy is an emotion that deserves to be amplified and worn in abundance.

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M O J EH B e a u ty

Beauty News The world of weddings can often feel relentless with planning often taking presidence over beauty preparations. Whether you’re gearing up for your big day or simply wanting to look your best for a summer calendar packed with events, we share five quick fixes for 360-degree beauty.

For a gleaming body: Body Brightening, Lime Spa, Desert Palm Per Aquum Timeline: 1 day before For a glow that radiates from the neck down, Lime Spa has the perfect body-shining solution. The Body Brightening treatment begins with a black soap, full-body wash using an exfoliating kesse mitt and is followed by a ‘Time to Shine’ body polish that creates a healthy sheen. A warm spiced mud rich in antioxidants and minerals is then applied for immediate skin firming, and body lotion using a silky blend of wild seaweed extracts and organic essential oils provides a completely natural, deep moisturising experience. “A Body Brightening treatment the day before your event will improve the quality of sleep and help your body to gain energy,” says Marina Kutskaya, Lime Spa Manager. For elevated eyes: Hi-Brow and Lash Perfect, Sisters Beauty Lounge Hi-Brow Timeline: 2-3 days before Unlike other eyebrow treatments, Hi-Brow takes the individual’s face shape and colouring into account. Brow Stix are used to map out the shape and coordinate the best look for the facial structure. Then a combination of waxing, threading, tweezing, and tinting are applied to create an even contrast throughout the brow. “This is particularly great for brides as it lasts for up to 14 days, keeping your brows oh-so-perfect for the honeymoon,” says Line Arceo, Hi-Brow therapist. Lash Perfect Timeline: 2-3 days before Used to enhance the natural lash structure by adhering a synthetic version onto each natural eyelash, semi-permanent lash extensions create a longer, fuller, and more voluminous flutter. Lash Perfect individual eyelashes are gentle, lightweight and comfortable to wear. “Lash extensions are a

must have for any bride,” says Kristina Macovei, beauty therapist at Sisters Beauty Lounge. “You can go natural with individual lashes or dramatic with Russian Lash Extensions.” For a fresh and youthful glow: Black Diamond Stem Cell Hydrafacial, Willow Stream Spa, Fairmont The Palm Timeline: 5 days before Using the advanced stem cell boosters designed by industry pioneer, Dr Levy, the creator of the Nefertiti Botox Lift, this treatment restores and improves the health of your skin while delivering powerful stem cell boosters into dermal layers to boost collagen production, firming and toning for the face, chest and décolletage from within. “This is the perfect pre-celebration treatment to hydrate, feed and nourish the skin,” says Laura Brown, spa manager. “It lifts and tones and gets rid of any fine lines, making you photo ready before your big event.” For a firm physique: Anjali Chandiramani, founder of A-Tone Fitness Lounge Timeline: 2-3 weeks before

For a balanced mind: Life coach, Zeta Yarwood

This is the right time to begin weight training and

Timeline: A preventative approach is always best

calisthenics, that will begin building your muscle

so sessions can start from three to six months in

mass. The more muscle you build, the faster

advance, but some women get what they need

you burn fat. Align your fittings to the goals you

within only four to six hours.

discuss with your trainer to ensure your body

A life coach can help a bride deal with anxiety

looks fantastic in what you’ve chosen. A rule of

and frustration surrounding planning, managing

thumb is to do weight training three times a week

family expectations as well as wedding day nerves.

with intervals of recovery to ensure there are no

Working with a coach can provide valuable tools and

injuries or muscle tears.

techniques to help manage stress and develop the

Timeline: 10 days before

confidence to ask for what she wants. “Remember,

Pilates, the core-building exercise regime, is an

we can’t control people. We can’t control the

excellent way to look lean and strong. There will

weather,” says Zeta Yarwood. “The only thing we

be a very noticeable improvement in your posture

can control is how we respond to what happens

by adding Pilates to a healthy lifestyle, that’ll give

around us. Make a conscious decision that you

you that supermodel gait.

will choose to have fun no matter what happens.”

146

B e au ty N ote

On The Go Don’t let your special day be ruined with a surplus of beauty products. Migrate towards all-in-one compacts for a curated edit. Keep an eye out for opulent cases in gold or silver to retain a level of luxury.

Photographed by Borna Ahadi, styled by Sophie Pasztor

Clockwise from top: Perfect Matte Powder Foundation – Tan 140, DOLCE&GABBANA at Tyrano | Couture Palette – 5 Surréaliste, YVES SAINT LAURENT at Tryano | Perles de Poudre D’Exception Compact, GURLIAN | Complete Eye Palette – Smokey Grey N.01, BURBERRY

Ulyana Sergeenko

Refined

R e f l e c ti o n s The spring17 ready-to-wear and Haute Couture runways offered up a plethora of inspirational beauty looks. Take cues from three distinct moods to take you through summer engagements.

148

SE A S O NA L B EA UT Y

At Paul Smith’s spring17 show, makeup artist Petros Petrohilos opted to use pink blush across eyelids for a natural and feminine finish.

1 2

Wildflower headbands and floral crowns convey free-spirited woodland vibes with a touch of modern bohemia. Keep makeup serene by applying light dustings of pearlescent and pink eyeshadows, and highlight cheekbones with soft blush tones.

Complete the look with a matte nude lip and a lengthening mascara.

Milliner Stephen Jones crafted elaborate floral headdresses for Dior’s Haute Couture show, accompanied by a slick of lip balm and lacquer in a sweet pink.

Appliqué crowns sewn together with white fabrics were paired with a metallic salmon pink liner and shadow at Georges Hobeika’s Haute Couture show.

Compiled by Mary Keenan

Bohemian Beauty

Tom Pecheux proved less is more at Elie Saab’s Haute Couture show, evoking Egyptian glamour from the Fifties, with eyeliner drawn into exaggerated feline flicks.

Embrace old-school glamour for after-dark

events with deep ruby red lips and dramatic kohl-lined eyes. Update for the season by selecting lipsticks with a metallic or glittery finish, and wear with rich cappuccino browns and gilded shades of bronze and pewter, for a look with an immense wow factor.

Carolina Herrera’s origami-style half up-do provides a polished alternative to wearing hair down. Ideal for dressy occasions – sweep sides of hair back and tuck under for a sleek finish.

Evening Opulence

Makeup guru Pat McGrath brought her metallic magic to DKNY’s spring/summer17 show, enlisting a sumptuous burgundy shade worn with a touch of light brown shadow.

150 At Viktor&Rolf, wide sweeps of metallic gel liner set an avantgarde tone; minimal makeup and natural lips ensured the eyes were the focal point.

1 2

Rethink traditional beauty looks by adding metallic accents and embellished accessories. For example, reinvent an elegant French manicure by switching out white tips for a shimmering silver outline instead. Eschew powder shadow and opt to outline eyes with surrealist strokes of gel liner in hues of gold and silver.

Contemporary Classic

Tamara Ralph and Michael Russo chose to accent their red carpet-worthy Haute Couture collection with futuristic pops of silver that appeared on nails and eyelids.

Classic beehive hairstyles were accessorised with decadent swathes of embellished fabric at Georges Hobeika, presenting a refreshing take on bridal beauty.

MOJEHMEN.COM The essential daily guide to luxury living for modern gentlemen in the Middle East and beyond.

152

M OJEH Scents

â&#x20AC;&#x153;I am always filled with an imperious thirst for distant lands, the desire to go ever farther in search of new scents,â&#x20AC;? says Thierry Wasser, master perfumer. And, from the Carla lavender, which grows at an altitude of 1,300 metres, to Tahitensis vanilla found in Papua New Guinea, Wasser knows every last detail about the raw materials he sources. Trailing a journey that began in the Middle East and wound its way through Provence, Paris and Kununurra, here, we speak to Wasser to

Images courtesy of Guerlain

discover his latest scent story for Mon Guerlain.

On the Middle East’s attachment to fragrance. Here [in Dubai], people love fragrances, which is not always the case everywhere in the world. In the Americas, for example, people have more distance and think that fragrances are more functional; here, there is a lot of love for fragrance and for me, it’s like walking in heaven. On lessons learnt in Dubai. It was after my first trip to Dubai that we thought about this. During another visit, I met with an older guy who loves fragrance and Guerlain; he told me that we don’t know how to make fragrance in Europe! We spoke for two hours and after that discussion, I made Santal Royal. On finding ingredients in Iran. I went to Iran in 2010 to source Iranian roses. That trip to Kashan and Esfahan was such a treat – the food was so fantastic that I gained 3kg in a week, and the people were so educated and nice. Ten kilometres from Kashan, there is a very small village called Gemzar that’s famous for its rose water, which is why I was drawn to that area. When I saw the field of roses, I was amazed. On sourcing rare materials. Sandalwood is very popular across the Middle East and in India, but it’s very difficult to source. When I found a huge source in Australia, I started tap dancing and said, ‘Wow, I’ve found a gold mine.’ The botanical species was imported from India as part of a government programme, which started in 1963. But, it takes time to grow. You can start harvesting these trees after 15 years, but since the oil is in the centre of the trunk, you have to let your trees reach a certain age. By chance, in Paris, there was a raw material fair and a little booth

On seminal moments.

with business cards for ‘Santanol’ – we were their

For the new fragrance, I focused on the South of

first customers, because they had just started

France. Lavender, the main ingredient, is processed

harvesting their wood. Mon Guerlain – because we

in a very new way with low temperature distillation

found this source – is the only modern fragrance

to preserve the integrity of the flower and make the

that has the luxury of including this ingredient.

oil much richer. Sometimes, when you’re in the field with your rubber boots on, you get an epiphany and

On first encounters with fragrance.

decide that a certain ingredient will be the next choice.

When I was 13, I looked like I was eight. Today, I’m very happy not to look my age, but at that time,

On Angelina Jolie.

I wanted to look older. So, I had to find a trick. A

The fragrance was already finished when our president

friend of my mother’s was wearing Habit Rouge and

announced that he had signed the contract with

to me, he was a strong, masculine person. I decided

Angelina Jolie, and when I met her, I was not

to go and buy it, thinking that eventually I would look

disappointed. I think this lady is absolutely dedicated

more secure and adult. And, believe it or not, I felt

to her causes and incredibly honest in her motivations;

like a man. If you feel good, you do better, I think.

when we met, it was a very strong moment.

Clockwise from top left: Thierry Wasser, the fifth Guerlain perfumer, orchestrated the creation of the new women’s fragrance by the House, the result is a concentration of his human relationships Used in Mon Guerlain, Carla lavender is exceptionally rare offering unique olfactory properties. By distilling it at a low temperature the oil becomes richer Tahitensis Vanilla is the starting point behind Mon Guerlain and a favourite raw material of the brand An Oriental fresh scent, developed as a manifesto brand, each note of Mon Guerlain recalls a destination from Wasser’s travels

154

M OJEH B E A U TY

You Are What You

MOJEH examines the rapidly expanding trend for ingestible beauty â&#x20AC;&#x201C; what makes these products so extraordinary?

Words by Mary Keenan

We’ve all heard the adage, ‘You are what you eat’. But, what about,

nutrition is of the utmost importance,” claims Temelkovski. “Skin

‘You are what you ingest’? Ingestible products are a rapidly developing

requires appropriate nutrients, supplied by food and delivered to the

category in the beauty and wellness industry, and have been gaining

skin through the vascular system. Both macronutrients, including

momentum over the past few years, with a growing number of

essential fatty acids, and micronutrients, such as vitamins A, C,

products hitting the market.

E and oligo-elements, preserve skin functionalities and cosmetic

For those unfamiliar with the term, ingestible beauty refers to

attractiveness.” Another key player within the world of ingestible

nutritional supplements that support the structure and function of

beauty is Harley Street surgeon Doctor Yannis Alexandrides, whose

skin internally. These supplements are available in three main forms:

111Skin Radiant Beauty Dose supplements are based on the tablets

Concentrated liquid tonics, powders, and tablets that pack numerous

taken by astronauts to prevent ageing in space. “Even though I’m a

vitamins, minerals and macro and micronutrients essential for optimal

surgeon, my ethos is prevention. I wanted to develop supplements

skin health into one product.

that can be taken as a protective and reparative measure against

But, why do they work?

aggressors that cause cells to go into oxidative stress – the biggest

“I believe that beauty begins in the belly,” says Carla Oates, a

cause of ageing internally and externally,” says Alexandrides. “I

former beauty editor, who worked with nutritionists, chemists and

believe that truly healthy skin is created on the inside, not out. A lot

naturopaths to start The Beauty Chef – a range of liquids and powders

of skincare products tend to look after the top layers of skin and,

designed to rejuvenate the skin. “Gut health is paramount for healthy,

while they have a positive effect on the appearance, the benefits

radiant skin and overall wellbeing. Our gut is where 70 per cent of

are superficial and temporary. In order for skin to maintain its own

the immune system lies, where we metabolise hormones, where we

health, it needs to be nurtured by ingredients that will take care of

make detoxifying enzymes and nutrients – so much of what goes

the deeper layers and improve cellular function. Ingestible beauty

on in our digestive system can impact our skin.” Oates isn’t the only

products such as supplements are an effective way of delivering key

beauty professional who feels this way – Kristina Temelkovski is the

skin-enhancing ingredients to the deeper layers of skin, where they

nutritionist behind Raw Complexions, a line of ingestible powders that

can be utilised properly by cells.”

draw on a mix of superfoods, such as bee pollen, flaxseed meal, camu

Ingestible products make a surprisingly low-maintenance addition

camu, traditional Chinese herbs and alkalising greens to detox, purify

to one’s beauty regime; simply drink a teaspoon mixed into water

and cleanse the skin by removing toxins from the liver. “Our skin is

a day, sprinkle over smoothies and meals, or pop a pill, and

constantly subjected to mechanical, physical, chemical and oxidative

you’re good to go. But, patience is key, as it can take up to a

stress, resulting from breathing, metabolism, or external factors,

month to see results. “Ingestible beauty has a slower return. Most

such as UV exposure. In order to respond to these stresses and

consumers tend to really want a quick fix and immediate results,

preserve the skin’s optimal cosmetic attractiveness and functionalities,

and these things don’t happen immediately,” says Temelkovski.

111 Skin, Radiant Skin Beauty Dose These capsules boost vitality and glutathione levels. A combination of vitamins work together to improve the body’s natural defense mechanisms on a cellular level and protect against environmental damage.

The Beauty Chef, Collagen Inner Beauty Boost Designed to be mixed into 200ml of water and taken daily, this product is packed with naturally fermented pre and probiotics to combat cellular damage and support hair and nail growth.

Raw Complexions, Skintox Beauty Food A blend of superfoods and ancient Chinese herbs, Skintox Beauty Food aids in reducing and preventing many skin conditions, including acne, rosacea and inflammation. Sprinkle onto meals daily.

The Nue Co, Skinfood An expert blend of organic lucuma, baobab and camu camu powders combined with brown rice protein enable this supplement to brighten the complexion from within. It also aids digestion and stablises blood sugar levels.

156

M OJEH H ealth

Winged Beauties, photographed by Gaetan Caputo, MOJEH Issue 15

Health Personified As our ability to understand the code of life rapidly expands, we gain unprecedented power over disease, diet, fitness and beauty. MOJEH decodes the current climate for DNA testing.

Words by Laura Beaney

158 Everyone shares 99.9 per cent of the same

individualised skincare, he set the foundation

DNA, but it’s the remaining 0.1 per cent that’s

for a range of high-grade, anti-ageing products

of interest. Since the early 2000s, DNA tests

with a personalised approach. Following an in-

have become increasingly accessible and

depth questionnaire to identify lifestyle aspects

expansive. What was once a costly and closed-

that may impact skin ageing, like smoking and

off industry is today a hot topic for dinnertime

sunlight exposure, a DNA test examines two

discussion, as guests divulge their surprise at

genes – collagen breakdown and antioxidant

tracing their Apache heritage or discovering their

protection, which have been proven to accelerate

body’s aversion to tomatoes. “I was born in an

ageing. Taking the guesswork out of skincare,

ethnically diverse part of the world. People there

the genetic results are combined with the

have extremely varied features, caused by the

lifestyle risks using their proprietary algorithm

centuries of conquest and migration,” says Dr

to create a personalised serum or cream. “The

Faysal Succaria, a prosthodontist from Lebanon,

product contains the right ingredients at the

who recently took an ancestry test. “The beauty

right concentrations for you,”

of DNA testing is that it’s scientific and unbiased.

explains Dr Martin Stow, Geneu

After receiving the results, I realised that the

CEO. Available online, in their Bond

knowledge my family had was far from the truth.”

Street store and in Selfridges’

And, diet and diversity are just a fraction of the

Beauty Hall, Geneu products

story that these tests can tell. From predisposition

command a cult-like following,

to wrinkles, and diagnosis of rare diseases to

its devotees claiming that the

high-performance skincare formulations tailored

range has the transformative

to an individual’s genetic code, we are entering

effect of an invasive procedure.

a new era of enlightenment. But, aside from

There seem to be few downsides

lighthearted dinner debate, further developments

to this highly targeted approach to

in DNA testing will transform the future of our

beauty and wellness, but looking

health practices – and, they will also raise

back to health, how much do we

questions of ethical concern.

really want to know? To further

Nutrigenomics, the study of nutrition and

understand the power these tests

genetics, detects the different ways people

can afford, we look to our body

respond to food based on their genetic make-up.

on a cellular level. We are made

A recent study in this area by Stanford University

up of millions of cells, each with a

found that those on a diet matched to their

nucleus at the centre, where our

genetic type lost 2.5 times more weight than

DNA exists. Each cell contains a

those following other types. “Most of our clients

complete copy of an individual’s

choose the DNA Diet test, which is designed to

genetic plan. After a quick cheek

assist a personalised healthy eating plan,” says

swab or blood test, samples are

Katharina Elbracht, clinical director and dietitian

sent to a laboratory for analysis.

at Beyond Nutrition. The DNA Diet provides

Amongst other details, these tests

an insight into how each individual reacts to

can reveal our predisposition to

carbohydrates, saturated fats and intensity of

suffer from both rare and common

exercise, answering questions that a traditional

diseases. “In the case of rare

nutritionist simply can’t. “Individuals react

diseases, i.e. PKU, the information

differently to dietary approaches and a DNA-

tends to be more black and white

based diet can uncover whether a low fat,

– one has or does not have the

low carb or Mediterranean diet is the right

disease; whereas, for common

approach for you,” says Elbracht. And, why

diseases, i.e. diabetes or cancer, the information

stop at skincare when there’s a plethora of

is about increased or decreased risk,” explains

other targeted tests readily available?

Dr José Ordovás, PhD director of nutrition

Geneu was the brainchild of Christofer Toumazou,

and genomics at Tufts University. There are

a Regius Professor at Imperial College, London.

two reasons that the results are currently

His breakthroughs, like the cochlear implant for

incomplete. Firstly, these diseases are affected

born-deaf children and the artificial pancreas

by external factors like diet, physical activity,

for Type 1 diabetics, have changed the shape

and smoking. Secondly, the genetic component

of modern-day medicine. In short, if we were to

of these common diseases is very complex.

entrust the shape of our skincare to anyone, it

We still lack all the clues, but Dr Ordovás

would probably be him. Geneu saw Toumazou

predicts that increased knowledge in this

become the first to bring DNA testing to the realm

field will allow for two things: Early prediction

of beauty. Having elicited a new generation of

of disease and earlier and more effective

Aside from lighthearted dinner debate, further developments in DNA testing will transform the future of our health practices

In 2013, there was a spike in the number of women seeking the test that would reveal whether they were a carrier of the BRCA1 gene. This was thanks to Angelina Jolie, who discovered that, as a carrier, she had an 87 per cent risk of breast cancer. The actress, whose mother passed away at 56 from the disease, made the decision to have a double mastectomy, and after the surgery her risk fell to just five per cent. “Cancer is still a word that strikes fear into people’s hearts, producing a deep sense of powerlessness,” Jolie wrote in the New York Times. “But today, it is possible to find out through a blood test whether you are highly susceptible to breast and ovarian cancer, and then take action.” Jolie’s intervention was spurred by a known risk, and this type of testing can have an immediate

DNA Directions

prevention using personalised approaches.

What: GeneU Best for: Targeted anti-aging GeneU’s scientific research recognises that 60 per cent of skin ageing can be attributed to inherited genes, and 40 per cent to lifestyle factors. With this notion in mind their unique service begins with a DNA and lifestyle test to determine the two key genes responsible for skin ageing. Based on the results a skin profile is created and personalised serums are created for your recommended Genotypes to enhance your natural antioxidant levels and reduce the impact of premature ageing.

impact and benefit for subjects with a family history of disease – but predictive testing isn’t for everyone. “I know I am not immortal, but I would like to keep ‘how I am going to go’ a surprise,” admits Dr Succaria, who declined the health test. “When DNA testing is used for predictive analysis, I think it can impact your life and not necessarily for the better. Several questions arise. Would an insurance company cover people without discrimination knowing that they are more prone to a certain disease? Would a couple get married knowing that one of them will develop a terminal disease?” And, when it comes to receiving the results, who will be able to cope with the information? This is something that will be processed differently from one individual to another. “It is not something for hypochondriacs unless they are very closely supervised by a health professional,” warns Dr Ordovás.

What: DNAFit Best for: Fitness and performance Established in 2013, DNAFit have helped thousands understand how their genetic makeup affects their response to exercise. Following a saliva swab, taken at home DNAFit offer results indicating how power or endurance exercise and recovery affects the individual’s body as well as a detailed breakdown of the macro and micronutrients needed. Results are ready in 10 business days - the fastest turnaround in the industry.

We have had the capability to map out our individual genetic code for more than a decade (the first successful sequence was in 2003). But, at the start of this remarkable journey, the technology required was extremely expensive and results took months to appear. Regardless of these setbacks, in 2005, Antony Barnett of The Guardian predicted that by 2007, thousands

Images courtesy of Eastern Biotech, Geneu and DNAFit

would be using DNA tests to reveal clues about their origins – and he was right. The floodgates have opened and now anyone can have their ethnicity, physical performance, allergens, skin type and ability to absorb different types of medication tested for less than AED 2,000, with results available in only 10 days. What seemed like a far-removed scientific innovation at the start of the millennium is now expected to reach all corners of the commercial world. For better or worse, genetic testing is here to stay.

What: Eastern Biotech & Life Sciences, UAE and India Best for: Health insight Offering comprehensive diagnostic services including genetic testing, consultations, DNA analysis, DNA ancestry, food intolerance and allergy testing, nutrition help, and cancer testing, Eastern Biotech & Life Sciences are pioneers in the region. Tests provide deep insight into health, empowering individuals to proactively take control of their wellness needs, and assisting them in the process of changing their lifestyles to prevent the onset of certain illnesses.

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Mineral M

A time to glisten and gleam, metallics shapes the face of new season skin. Coral and terracotta take over from the rich reds of before while eyes are enlivened with gilded gold and bronze.

Photographed by Luc Braquet | Makeup by Clelia Bergonzoli

Face throughout: Complexion, Diorskin Forever & Ever Wear Primer, Diorskin Forever Fluid Foundation 020, Diorskin Nude Air Care & Dare 001, Diorskin Nude Air Luminizer Serum 003 and Diorskin Forever Loose Powder 001 | Eyes, Diorshow Brow Styler Gel 001 Transparent and Diorshow Pump â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Nâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Volume Mascara 090 Black Pump, DIOR

Eyes, Dior 5 Couleurs Palette 867 Attract | Lips, Dior Addict Lip Sugar Scrub 001 and Dior Addict Care & Dare 478 Soft Pink | Nails, Dior Vernis 445 Coral Crush, DIOR

Eyes, Dior 5 Couleurs Palette 867 Attract, Dior 5 Couleurs Palette 557 Focus and Diorshow Khol 099 Black Khol | Lips, Dior Addict Lip Sugar Scrub 001 and Dior Addict Care & Dare 539 Mellow Beige, DIORâ&#x20AC;¨

Eyes, Dior 5 Couleurs Palette 557 Focus and Diorshow Khol 099 Black Khol | Lips, Dior Addict Lip Sugar Scrub 001 and Dior Addict Care & Dare 539 Mellow Beige | Nails, Dior Vernis 729 Blazing Bronze, DIOR

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Makeup: All Care & Dare Collection, Dior Model: Kitty Hayes at Heroes Model Management Hair stylist: Tyler Laswell Manicurist: Michelle Matthews Production: Louis Agency

168

M OJEH TRAV E L

Fallâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Fresh Force, photographed by Anthony Arquier, MOJEH Issue 40

Slipping A

With the unstoppable march of climate change and mass tourism putting the future of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most fragile destinations in doubt, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s an increasing desire among young couples to use their honeymoon to see these places before they change beyond all recognition.

Words by Peter Iantorno

170 From the crystal clear waters and vibrant flora and fauna in the

they have just been moved up a tier from ‘endangered’ to ‘critically

hidden underwater ecosystem of Australia’s Great Barrier Reef, to the

endangered’,” says Ayache, who is the founder of online magazine

expansively bleak snowscape and towering icy glaciers of the Arctic,

startup Ethical Desk, which promotes a more sustainable lifestyle in

some of the planet’s most stunning areas of outstanding natural beauty

the Middle East. “They are majestic, charismatic, intelligent animals

also happen to be its most fragile. As these bucket-list destinations

and the world would be a sorrier place without them. My husband

edge closer and closer to extinction, there is a growing desire among

and I can’t imagine our (future) children not being able to experience

tourists to witness them in all their glory, before they have changed

the joy of seeing these Great Apes in the way that we have.”

beyond all recognition or – worse still – disappeared completely.

With such a passion for saving the orangutans, it was vital for Ayache

Nowhere is this trend for time-sensitive travel more prevalent than

that her visit to Indonesia left as little impact on the local area as

among newlyweds. Often in search of once-in-a-lifetime destinations

possible. “It’s really important to do your research and make sure

in which to celebrate their marriage, honeymooners are increasingly

that the eco lodges you are visiting are truly sustainable and truly give

looking to visit places that face the very real threat of disappearing

back to the community,” she says. “The Rimba Eco Lodge does an

before their children are old enough to see them.

incredible job. Not only is it fully run by locals with local produce, the

One such intrepid couple is Dubai-based journalist Anthea Ayache and

entire lodge (including air-conditioning) runs on renewable energy.”

her lawyer husband George Rabahie. Married earlier this year, the pair

And while the plight of the orangutans is a subject close to Ayache’s

decided to use their honeymoon as a chance to explore Indonesia,

heart – and certainly a factor in hers and her husband’s choice of

visiting Java, Bali, Lombok and Kalimantan over 12 adventure-

honeymoon destination – the conservationist nature of the holiday

packed days. The highlight of the trip was a two-night stay in the

didn’t detract at all from the romance. “The rainforest is so remote

rainforest at the Rimba Orangutan Eco Lodge on the Sekonyer River

that at night you can see the full Milky Way,” she says. “Seeing a

in Kalimantan – one of the last places in the world where orangutans

blanket of a billion stars was a once-in-a-lifetime experience. These

can still be found in the wild. “Orangutan populations are expected to

wonderful places may lack the lustre of a five-star resort, but they

have fallen by more than 80 per cent by the turn of the decade, and

more than make up for it with a sense of oneness with the world.”

A complete departure from the wilds of the Indonesian rainforest, yet just as fragile, the Maldives is perhaps the archetypal destination for luxury-loving honeymooners. Popular with newlyweds since the early 1970s, when the Karumba Island Resort became the first of many developments on its 26 blissful atolls, now, almost half a century later, the clutch of paradisiacal islands is awash with luxury resorts under the management of some of the world’s biggest hotel chains, including Six Senses, Conrad, Four Seasons, Park Hyatt and Cheval Blanc. While most, if not all, of these resorts have various sustainability measures in place to ensure they leave the smallest possible footprint on the fragile ecosystems they inhabit – the Four Seasons Maldivian Sea Turtle Conservation Programme and the Six Senses Nature, Island & Reef Protection Programme are two of the many examples – the The Indonesian rainforest is the natural habitat of the orangutan, but due to logging and the relentless production of palm oil, their population is expected to have dropped by more than 80 per cent by the turn of the decade

fact remains that the fate of the Maldives is reliant on matters that are very much on a global scale. With the average height of land on the Maldives just 1.2m above sea level (and the highest point in the country a paltry 2.4m above sea level), the Maldives is at critical risk from the rising sea levels caused by global warming. According to research from the Union of Concerned Scientists, mid-level scenarios for global warming show that the Maldives can expect a sea level rise of around 50cm by the year 2100, which means that 77 per cent of its total land area would be lost underwater. Similarly, Australia’s Great Barrier Reef is also at risk from a global issue. Spanning 2,300km along the Queensland coast, the area is home to some 3,000 coral reef systems, which not only contain a huge diversity of marine plants and animals – such as sea turtles, reef fish and sharks – but also support a tourism industry worth an estimated AED 16.5 billion a year as well as 70,000 jobs. However, following a steep increase in water temperature due to 2016’s El Nino weather system, the reef suffered its worst coral bleaching event ever recorded – and as a result almost a quarter of the Great Barrier Reef is now dead. And it’s not just ecological factors that can lead to a destination changing beyond all recognition: political and socio-economic issues can also have a huge impact on what a place is like to visit. For example, the lifting of long-held sanctions between the US and Cuba in 2016 has seen the communist country become exposed to the very real prospect of mainstream tourism from the US – and all the changes that brings with it. According to Cuban statistics, the number of American visitors has nearly doubled in the past year to just less than 100,000. And this trend is only going to increase, as earlier this year the US and Cuba agreed to allow up to 110 daily flights to the island. Add to that a steady stream of celebrities and socialites raising the profile of Cuba as a destination yet further – Madonna celebrated her 58th birthday by dancing on a table at an Old Havana restaurant and the Kardashians filmed episodes of their reality series in Havana last year – and the

Photographed by Louise Murray at Getty

prospect of Cuba’s unique revolutionary society being diluted by American Capitalism looks an extremely likely one. With the seemingly unstoppable march of climate change and mass tourism putting the future of the world’s most fragile places in doubt, time really is of the essence when it comes to the world’s most at-risk destinations. Yet, while there’s undoubtedly a great hunger among tourists to get out there and see the world’s most unstable places while they still exist in their current state, there is an even greater desire, it seems, to contribute to the preservation effort, in order to ensure that these amazing locations will still be around in generations to come.

172 Maldives Why it is at risk: Rising sea levels threatening to submerge the low-lying islands. Where to stay: Four Seasons Resort Maldives at Kuda Huraa. Situated on its own private coral island, this luxurious beachfront resort is just a 30-minute speedboat ride from the countryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s capital, MalĂŠ. The property boasts its very own Marine Discovery Centre run by local marine biologists, which educates

Must-see destinations

guests on the value of conserving both the local and global marine ecosystem.

Arctic Why it is at risk: Climate change melting polar ice caps. Where to stay: Hotel Arctic. Located on the Unescolisted Ilulissat Icefjord in western Greenland, Hotel Arctic is perfectly situated for those looking to explore the freezing landscapes of the surrounding area. Not only is the hotel 100 per cent CO2 neutral, it also prides itself on using local produce such as reindeer, sea urchins and seaweed in its fine-dining restaurant, which supports the local economy.

Great Barrier Reef Why it is at risk: Rising sea temperature causing coral bleaching, killing the reef. Where to stay: Lizard Island. The only resort that is located literally on the Great Barrier Reef, with just 40 rooms and 24 private beaches, Lizard Island is without doubt the most luxurious base from which to explore the area. The resort was awarded the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first ecotourism certification back in 1996 and it remains committed to nurturing its delicate ecosystem.

Cuba Why it is at risk: Influx of tourists from the US set to influence unique Cuban culture. Where to stay: Hotel Saratoga. Located beside the iconic National Grand Capitol Building, with its spacious suites and rooftop pool, Hotel Saratoga is the most luxurious lodging in Old Town Havana. With impressive artwork displayed throughout the property, the hotel is full of the same grandeur that made it a hit in its 1930s heyday.

174

Tal k ing P o i nt

A rt

R e d i r e c t e d Art patrons, curators and institutions aim to bridge cultural barriers with a surge of Middle Eastern and Islamic art exhibitions.

Words by Nada Bokhowa

Mahmoud Said. Le Chat Blanc. 1948. Oil on panel. 26.3 x 32 cm. Courtesy of the Barjeel Art Foundation

Days after Donald Trump was sworn in as the

he aims to showcase his art collection on a

2004, which questioned Iran’s association

US President on January 20, 2017, he instated

museum tour throughout art institutions in

with terrorism when the former US President,

a controversial travel ban, which made news

the US for as long as possible, subsequently

George W. Bush coined the term “axis of evil”.

headlines across the world. The US President’s

maximising the exposure of Iranian art. The

Iran was one of the nations included in the

executive order aimed to prohibit citizens from

North American debut of 27 contemporary

axis, which posed an alleged threat to the

several predominantly Muslim nations from

artworks from his collection are currently

US. “What is ironic and sad is that here we

entering the US. Following a halt by US federal

displayed at the exhibition, Rebel, Jester,

are almost 13 years later after that artwork,”

courts, Trump instated a revised measure in

Mystic, Poet: Contemporary Persians at the

Afkhami recounts. “It is almost as if it could have

March, which aimed to ban citizens from six

Aga Khan Museum in Toronto, Canada. Curated

been made today. Because, again the same

Muslim-majority nations from entering the US

by Fereshteh Daftari, the showcase presents a

labelling and the same stereotyping is going

for 90 days, excepting valid visa and green card

survey of Afkhami’s post-revolution Iranian art,

on.” The exhibition’s curator, Fereshteh Daftari,

holders. The nations included in Trump’s revised

which explores topics from politics and gender

insists that not all the artworks on view convey

travel ban are Iran, Syria, Libya, Somalia, Sudan

to religion through perspectives of rebellion,

war and a world in turmoil. “Appropriately, the

and Yemen. US federal judges continue their

humour, mysticism and poetry. “The whole raison

exhibition concludes with the video installation

efforts to halt the President’s revised order due

d’être of the Aga Khan Museum is to promote

by Morteza Ahmadvand,” Daftari notes. “Who

to its unconstitutional factors.

a better understanding of different parts of the

calls for the unity of the three Abrahamic

In the wake of the ongoing travel ban controversy,

world,” Afkhami says. “It sets a fantastic tone for

religions: Judaism, Christianity and Islam.”

art collectors, curators and institutions continue

bringing works from the broader Islamic world

In light of the US President’s executive order,

to take a stance against discrimination with the

to a Western audience.” Among the politically

Daftari believes the art on display can offer

hope of diminishing stereotypes in a series of

charged artworks is a compelling self-portrait

alternative perspectives of Iranian culture. “His

art showcases from the Middle East and the

by Khosrow Hassanzadeh entitled, Terrorist:

executive order paints Iranians as potential

Islamic world. On February 4, 2017, coincidently

Khosrow. Hassanzadeh created the work in

terrorists,” Daftari says. “Not as inheritors of

a week after Trump’s first travel ban, the Aga Khan Museum in Toronto launched an exhibition displaying contemporary Iranian art from the collection of the Iranian financier and art collector, Mohammed Afkhami. Elsewhere, the Emirati art patron Sultan Sooud Al Qassemi

Images courtesy of Mohammed Afkhami Foundation, Museum of Modern Art, New York and Elizabeth Bliss Parkinson Fund, Barjeel Art Foundation

continues to showcase the rich culture of the region in a series of Middle Eastern art exhibitions currently on display from the Institut du Monde Arabe in Paris to Yale University in New Haven, Connecticut. In direct opposition to Trump’s executive order, the Museum of Modern Art (MoMA) in New York City rehung artworks conceived by artists from the predominantly Muslim nations included in the ban. Amid the current US political climate, Sheikh Mohammed Rashid Al-Thani, a New York-based Qatari national, launches the Institute of Arab and Islamic Art (IAIA) in New York this May. The sentiment among these art patrons, curators and institutions is the hope that exhibiting art from the Middle East and the Islamic world can traverse cultural boundaries and challenge stereotypes. Soaring high towards the sky, resides a selection of Mohammed Afkhami’s art collection, which lines the walls at his Burj Daman residence in Dubai. Since 2005, the Iranian financer has amassed more than 300 works of modern and contemporary Iranian art. “Originally, I wanted to buy enough art to fill up my walls,” Afkhami recounts. “That happened very quickly.” Over the years, his art collection evolved as he accrued a cross-section of Iranian art from the 1950s to the present day. Afkhami says

Khosrow Hassanzadeh. Terrorist: Khosrow. 2004. Acrylic and silkscreen ink on canvas. Courtesy of Mohammed Afkhami Foundation

Ali Banisadr. We Havenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t Landed on Earth Yet. 2012. Oil on linen. Photo: Jeffrey Sturges. Courtesy of Mohammed Afkhami Foundation

176

Kadhim Hayder. Fatigued Ten Horses Converse with Nothing (The Martyrâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Epic).1965. Oil on canvas. 91 x 127 cm. Courtesy of the Barjeel Art Foundation

178 culture, modern and ancient, not as reservoirs

between people.” The Barjeel Art Foundation’s

has taken a direct stance against Trump’s

of intelligence and creativity. Not as a nation

current exhibitions include Chefs-D’œuvre

executive order. Days after the US President

of deep humanity with an ability to express

de L’art Moderne et Contemporain Arabe at

issued the first travel ban, MoMA opposed

profound thoughts in a language of exquisite

Institut du Monde Arabe in Paris and Modern

the order by re-hanging artworks from the

beauty – a perspective RJMP: Contemporary

Art from the Middle East at Yale University in

museum’s permanent collection conceived by

Persians does offer.”

Connecticut. The foundation’s forthcoming

artists from the nations included in the ban. A

In Sharjah, the Barjeel Art Foundation continues

exhibitions will take place at the Hessel Museum

selection of works by modern masters such

to bridge the cultural divide between the

of Art in New York and the Katzen Arts Center in

Picasso and Matisse were replaced by works

Middle East and the West. Founded in 2010

Washington D.C. The Barjeel Art Foundation’s

from artists hailing from Iran such as Shirana

by the Emirati art collector, Sultan Sooud Al

exhibitions provide an insight into the Middle

Shahbazi, Parviz Tanavoli and Charles Hossein

Qassemi, the foundation aims to preserve and

East’s illustrious history from the rise and fall

Zenderoudi, including a work by the Sudanese

exhibit Al Qassemi’s extensive collection of

of Pan-Arabism to the Gulf War and the Arab

artist Ibrahim El-Salahi, entitled The Mosque. A

modern and contemporary Arab art. When Al

Spring. “Ultimately art can humanise people,” Al

placard is placed alongside each work, which

Qassemi established the foundation, there was

Qassemi states. “Art shows that human beings

states: “These artworks from the Museum’s

hardly any Middle Eastern art showcased at

have the same basic needs, similar fears and the

collection are installed throughout the fifth-floor

institutions in the West. Al Qassemi believes

same dreams for a better life.” He highlights a

galleries and The Agnes Gund Garden Lobby

the representation of Middle Eastern art has

work from his collection on display at the Institut

to affirm the ideals of welcome and freedom

progressed over the years as the region

du Monde Arabe in Paris by the Algerian artist

as vital to this Museum, as they are to the

continues to capture news headlines across the

Kader Attia, entitled, Demo(n)cracy. With a play

United States. These works are by artists from

world. “Some Western museums have received

on the terminology, Attia addresses conflicts

nations whose citizens have been or are being

financial grants from Middle Easterners who

with the development of democracy. “Demo(n)

denied entry into the United States by recent

have supported purchases,” he says. “While

cracy reflects how a promise can turn into a

presidential executive orders.” A spokesperson

others have hung Middle Eastern works as

menace,” Al Qassemi says. “Something that

for the MoMA stated the artworks will remain on

a result of the political climate – playing an

all of us would do well to learn lessons from.”

view for an indefinite time, while the museum’s

important role in facilitating cultural dialogue

In New York, the Museum of Modern Art (MoMA)

art collection rotates periodically.

Etel Adnan. Champs de Petrol. 2013. Hand-woven wool tapestry. 159 x 200 cm.Courtesy of the Barjeel Art Foundation

Ibrahim El-Salahi. The Mosque. 1964. Oil on canvas. 30.7 x 46 cm. Courtesy of the Museum of Modern Art, New York and Elizabeth Bliss Parkinson Fund

Elsewhere in New York, Qatar’s Sheikh Mohammed Rashid Al-Thani launches the Institute of Arab and Islamic Art (IAIA) in May. The Manhattan-based, non-profit institute aims to foster the artistic and cultural dialogue between New York and the Arab and Islamic world through art exhibitions, education programmes and artist residencies. On what compelled Al-Thani to launch the institute, he says it was principally due to an inadequate representation of Arab and Islamic Art in New York. “Our narratives are being written by Western foundations,” Al-Thani says. “They try to the maximum of their capacity to represent the region, but our region needs an institution that is driven by our people, our artists and our curators to write our own narratives to present to the Western culture.” Al-Thani insists that the inception of the institute is not a direct stance against Trump, but rather a reaction to what he describes as, “the stereotypes and the misconceptions that Muslims and Arabs have been struggling with for the past two decades”. The inaugural exhibition debuts on May 3, 2017, and showcases the works of artists exploring notions of Islamic architecture and geometry. The shared sentiment remains that art can pave the way for a greater understanding between the East and the West. While time will tell if the current initiatives will have a lasting effect on redirecting perceptions on a region which has so often been misconstrued. Thuraya Al-Baqsami. No to the Invasion. 1990. Linocut print. 40 x 30 cm. Courtesy of the Barjeel Art Foundation

180

At H o m e With

A Vibrant Existence For jewellery designer Ilke Shah, interior design is an extension of oneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s personal style. She invites us inside her family home.

Words by Mary Keenan

Rings from Ilkeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s jewellery brand LimeLite sit atop a cherry blossom ornament in the living room

One of Ilkeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s prized paintings by Turkish artist Devrim Erbil draws the eye in the living room. Ilke pictured wears Chanel top, skirt and shoes

182 Ilke photographed outside the entrance to her home, wearing a polka dot dress by Alexis

“We always live by water, everywhere we go,” smiles Ilke, as she gestures out through the open bi-fold doors of her vast Palm Jumeirah living room towards the sparkling waters outside. “In London, we lived on the Thames, and in Turkey, our house was on the Bosphorus, so there was no question that we would live here when we moved to Dubai. We didn’t even consider looking anywhere else.” Ilke, her husband Chirag and two beautiful daughters, Yasmin, 11, and Lara, 8, share their home with their two Pomeranians, Caramel and Vanilla. “We actually rented another villa on this Frond for a year, but I was decorating and renovating so much that we decided to buy our own place,” she laughs. Born and raised in Turkey, Ilke met Chirag, who is of Indian descent, while studying for her Masters in Nottingham. After their wedding, the two resided in London, where she worked in finance before launching her own interior design business. Stints in Chicago, Barcelona and Istanbul followed before they relocated to Dubai four years ago. Ilke has always designed her own jewellery and after receiving growing requests from friends and family to create pieces for them, she launched her own brand, LimeLite, from her living room last year. Consisting of exquisite nature-inspired pieces crafted from diamonds and precious stones, the home-grown brand has experienced unprecedented success, with all pieces from her first collection selling out, as well as offers to collaborate with Moda Operandi. “I never expected things to take off this quickly, but I’m having so much fun and really enjoying the experience. My daughters love the jewellery, too; they love playing with it and helping me with the prototypes.”

Ilke’s personal style emulates her interior tastes with brightly coloured pieces adding visual impact to her wardrobe

As we sit down to chat over Turkish coffee in her airy living room, Ilke perches on a beige sofa. “Style is the story of your life,” she says. “I don’t think you can buy everything all at once – whether it’s furniture, jewellery or clothing, things should be collected over time to tell your story.” This is certainly true of her home, where the pieces, collected from many different countries over the course of her marriage, more often than not have a meaning or story behind them. “My interior style has definitely evolved with travelling – what I see on our trips and where we’ve lived has shaped my tastes a lot.” Ilke and Chirag have a keen eye for art. A stunning piece created for the couple by Turkish artist Ahmet Günestekin hangs in the foyer, and they also own two vibrantly coloured paintings by another Turkish artist, Devrim Erbil. “I love purple, so we went to buy the piece by Devrim in the living room, but then I fell in love with the pink one while we were there, so we ended up buying both,” she says with a grin. The couple also own a porcelain Andy Warhol plate emblazoned with a floral motif.

Ilkeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s penchant for colour extends to her vast shoe collection, some of which are displayed in her bedroom

A white vase by Johnathon Adler adds to the Zen vibe on the homeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s beachfront terrace

184 An assortment of candles are displayed in the living room

An embellished mirror draws and refracts light in the dining room, lifting the dramatic dark wallpaper

“I like to have a neutral base and add touches of bright colour through objet and accessories,” she says of her living room, where grey wallpaper

“I love it when people visit our home and remark that it’s so much like me,” says Ilke

with metallic flecks allow her arresting purple painting by Devrim Erbil to take pride of place. Beige sofas with cushions in textured shades of cream bring a zen-like aura to the room that is echoed through a coffee table and consoles topped with stingray skin in similar hues, and a plush handmade rug by Jennifer Manners. Fresh roses, candles, coffee table books and an assortment of trinkets gathered on travels around the globe punctuate the space with colour and life. “We’re always in this part of the house – with the garden and the beach in front of us, we don’t need anything else! When the weather is good, these doors are always open and we just live in and out. Our favourite thing to do once the kids have gone to bed is to walk down the beach together – it’s so peaceful.” The dining room flows on from the living area and here, inky indigo wallpaper with a silver pattern running through it sets a dramatic tone. A round eight-seater table in rich mahogany wood anchors the room. “Our home in Istanbul was round, so everything in the house was designed by me and custom-made to fit it. We took a chance and shipped it over here and it fits the space perfectly – when it’s meant to be, it’s meant to be.” An embellished round mirror creates symmetry with the table and has an uplifting effect on the room’s moody hues, while various ornaments and photographs sit atop a rosewood sideboard, lending a personal touch. “I just love having people over and entertaining. It’s so nice to have people around the table and to cook for them,” she says earnestly. “I make a lot of Turkish food and Indian cuisine and am into really fresh flavours – one of my signatures is sea bass with lime, lemongrass and ginger, but I also make a great sour cherry pie.” The adjacent kitchen is decorated with Lara and Yasmin’s colourful artwork, while white marble surfaces keep the room feeling light. Upstairs, the girls’ bedrooms are awash with pretty pinks and pastel tones, a setting which Ilke predicts will change as they get older. “It’s so easy to change the entire feel of a room, I just need two days to bring in new wallpaper, switch the cushions and play around with some of the accents and accessories, and it’s done.” Across the hall, the master bedroom is a calm haven. Dark wooden furniture contrasts against soft furnishings in shades of teal and gold, while porcelain vases and urns are adorned with pieces of jewellery. “We’ve been so blessed in this house,” beams Ilke. “We’ve celebrated many successes here, both professional and personal. I really couldn’t imagine living anywhere else.”

Pieces of jewellery collected by Ilke over the years are draped over vases and urns in her bedroom

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M OJEH C ultu r e

Defining details with Vanessa Paradis Exuding electric energy and exhibiting a sense of style that strikes an effortless chord between sophistication and simplicity, we caught up with Vanessa Paradis after Chanel’s autumn/winter17 show to discover her take on fashion’s fundamentals.

It took me one intense week to learn the skill before we shot in a huge warehouse with a birdcage that was 10 metres high. It was quite amazing. On the colour red. Red is life, it’s passion, and red is also confidence. They say the colour red is the colour that gives you confidence, but I think it’s also very joyful and lively.

Vanessa Paradis exhibiting pared back beauty at the 69th Cannes International Film Festival

On Karl Lagerfeld. Karl is somebody who knows everything about everything! He’s so knowledgeable and cultured; he loves music, art and literature. It’s part of his personality and On style.

part of his work. He’s not just an artist who

Style is very much in the body language.

pulls something out from his imagination –

It’s in the way you walk… it’s not especially

it always has something to do with what’s

about what you wear, because you can

going on in the world.

have a lot of grace or style with everyday clothes. It’s also, of course, the way you mix

On Lily-Rose for Coco Rouge.

things up – style accounts for everything,

A young face is the present and the future.

it’s the clothes and your demeanour.

She’s got a flawless face at this age and she works really well for beauty.

On timeless beauty. You can’t stop time. We change, the

On Lily-Rose’s contemporary appeal.

face evolves, but what makes someone

She’s got amazing features, a beautiful

attractive is if you’re full of life and interest

face… but it’s what’s inside her heart and

– interest in the outside world, interest

her mind that makes her beautiful. She’s

in somebody else. Being present in the

smart, she’s a nice girl and she’s funny;

moment makes your eyes shine. You might

she’s got a sense of humour and she’s very

have wrinkles, your face might change,

down to earth – that’s what comes out of

but if life inspires you, then it makes you

her and that makes her so pretty and lively.

feel alive. You can’t be beautiful just for yourself, that’s useless – beauty is to share.

On Chanel autumn/winter17. There are a lot of pieces I would love to wear

On Chanel’s borderless appeal.

on stage, during a concert! The white coats

You can have a total Chanel look, which I

are beautiful and I loved the use of bluish

think fits into many different generations,

leather, especially the pants!

but what’s great is the mixing! You can mix a piece that’s very dressy and wear it with

On the meaning of fashion.

sweatpants or jeans.

I know it’s very far away from most people’s lives, but fashion is a world of art. It’s a

On ultimate moments with Chanel.

luxury, but I view it in the same way as

Lucky me, I’ve got a few! The first time I worked

studying paintings, sculptures or movies.

with Chanel was in the Nineties, working

It’s a way of expressing yourself and making

with Jean-Paul Goude doing the bird in the

people dream. A playful form of art and the

cage shoot, learning how to do the trapeze.

one closest to your body.

Vanessa Paradis pairs denim is duel tones at Chanel Haute Couture autumn/winter16

188

F i n al N ote

Sweet Talk History credits the Orchid as a rare and treasured bloom, symbolising one’s wealth. Its artful splendour is magnified by its beauty, and has become synonymous with love. Spritz Viktor&Rolf ’s Flower Bomb for a timeless allure or opt for Tom Ford’s Black Orchid for a modern aroma.

Photographed by Borna Ahadi, styled by Sophie Pasztor

Left to right: Flower Bomb, VIKTOR&ROLF | Black Orchid, TOM FORD | Néroli & Orchidée Eau de Toilette, L’OCCITANE at Tryano

Photographed by Julien Vallon

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