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Chairman SHAHAB IZADPANAH
EDITORIAL
PUBLISHING
Editor in Chief MOJEH IZADPANAH
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Cover shot by Federico De Angelis | Model: Inguna Butane, Oui Management | Inguna wears dress shirt, Azzedine Alaia | Silk pajama bottoms, Eres | Gold necklace and ring, Maison Martin Margiela | Stylist: Donatella Musco | Make up & Hair: Vincenzo Cavicchi | Production: Louis Agency.
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Louis Fourteen for MOJEH www.formojeh.com, info@formojeh.com “BPA Worldwide Consumer Publication Audit Membership Applied for June 2011.” Publisher’s Own Data: Average Circulation for the period September to December 2011- 14,468/ 96% of Total Print Run. For the UAE printed by Emirates Printing Press LLC. Distribution- UAE: Jashanmal National Company LLC. Qatar: Dar Al Sharq. Bahrain: Jashanmal & Sons BSC (C). Oman: United Media Services LLC The publishers regret that they can not accept liability for error or omissions contained in this publication, however caused. The opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessary those of the publishers. Readers are advised to seek specialist advice before acting on information contained in this publication which is provided for general use and may not be appropriate for the readers particular circumstances. The ownership of trademark is acknowledged, therefore reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. All credits are subjects to change. Copyright HS MEDIA GROUP FZ LLC 2011
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contents
Mojeh
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SOCIETY 16. A Floral Fairytale
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Event planner Preston Bailey invites us into his stunning world of flowers.
22. Woman in Society
Lebanese-born Desiree Bollier introduces us to a new age of shopping.
25. Memoir
Photographer and founder of Capital D Studio Ayaad Damouni takes us behind the scenes.
28. My Stylish Life
Art Gallery owner Nadine Knotzer on living a fabulously fashionable life.
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FASHION 42. The Dream Teller
Patrick Demarchelier and Dior’s moments of fashion beauty in pictures.
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48. Belgian Beauty
We sit down with supermodel Anouck Lepere and discover behind the high fashion façade lies a passionate philanthropist.
50. Show me the Love
Which designers were showcasing their passion for fashion this season?
53. Family Values
Which fashionable offspring are following in their family’s footsteps?
70. Love Always
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Turn to investment buying for the last months of the season and dedicate your wardrobe to pieces that will become long time loves.
86. Out of the Trenches
The ubiquitous trench coat returns to the top of everyone’s New Year’s shopping list. We show you the newest styles to add a touch of classic outerwear to your wardrobe.
88. There’s Something about Oscar
One of fashion’s most respected and long-standing designers, Oscar de la Renta explains why life is full of passions.
94. Cruise into the New Season
Another set of collections to swoon over? Check out our edited down list of must-haves for pre-spring/ summer.
99. Heart to Heart
Have a look through our Valentine’s Special for inspiring outfit and gift ideas for your special day this February.
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154. Most Desired
MOJEH’s pick of the must-have accessories to invest in these coming months. It doesn’t get much better than these seven beauties.
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Accessories
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168. Accessory Icon
We take a look at uber stylist Giovanna Battaglia and chart her love of accessories.
170. Accessory Moment
Highlighting the seven shoes you MUST have in your closet to see you through each and every season.
180. A Life in Jewels
A woman’s life can be charted by delving into her jewellery box and here we show you the most beautiful pieces for life’s most precious moments.
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184. Accessory Flash
A look at the hottest trends in the world of accessories, or as we like to call them, EXCESSories.
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186. Accessory Interview
We delve into the world of luxury with clutch and perfume maestro Kilian Hennessy.
Beauty 216. Supermodel Super Trainer
In an exclusive interview with supermodel trainer Justin Gelband, we uncover the fitness secrets of the world’s most beautiful women.
220. Beauty Vision
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We’re all about loving yourself this issue and pampering products are the first port of call! From the most beautifully packaged makeup to the health supplements you can’t do without, kick start your self-appreciation here.
226. Screen Goddesses
Trends come and go but true beauty lives forever, which is why we’ve rounded up the most iconic hair and beauty looks from our favourite screen goddesses of all time to help you look timeless.
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CULTURE 238. Artist in Residence
Marwan Sahmarani is the visionary storyteller.
244. Life in Culture
From one editor to another, Mojeh sits down with Vogue Italia’s Franca Sozzani.
250. Talking Point
Why women easily overlook the importance of inner aesthetics.
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letter
Editor’s
New Year, New Desires
JE TAIME, MOI NON PLUS, photo by Raphaël Delorme & Thierno SY
‘I am a very passionate person. Love starts with yourself because love is about how you live your life. Happiness is just a bagatelle, but you have to know how to find it. It’s all about having this extraordinary communion with this fantastic universe. I am always curious about living, curious about life. The day I say I know it all, is the day I should stop.’ - Oscar de la Renta. Earlier this month when we asked the designer what passion means to him, it would’ve been easy for him to say that it came down to just his craft: fashion. Instead his answer – inspiring and complete helped shaped our Passion issue into an exploration of finding yourself, finding your happiness and looking beyond the obvious. A good place to start is the culture section where our discussion on Inner Beauty looks at numerous reasons why women are often too tough on themselves. Sometimes all it takes is a good deed and some positive thinking to make you radiate on the outside. Did you know research has proven that self-assured thoughts will in fact make you reach your goals faster? That’s why we asked Justin Gelband, official trainer of the Victoria’s Secret girls to let us in on his training secrets (be warned, he doesn’t sugar coat a thing). Take Gelband’s advice and think happy thoughts – you’ll be feeling passionate about yourself in no time. We couldn’t let this issue go by without celebrating the passions of the heart, especially with Valentine’s Day lurking around the corner. Turn to our Valentine’s Special for ideas for cute wish lists and the perfect holiday getaway. You can’t control with whom you fall in love, so embrace and enjoy! Of course, there’s no running from the fact that a new dress, some great shoes and a diamond here and there won’t make us absolutely delighted. After all, that is what fashion was made for! So in true MOJEH style we bring you lavish shoots from all corners of the earth, showcasing the best styles from autumn/winter, resort and a little glimpse of the summer season ahead (yes, we knew it was cruel to keep you waiting until March). Be inspired this issue to kick start your new year with confidence and pride. In the words of our designer interview from Mr de la Renta, ‘love starts with yourself.’
Mojeh Izadpanah Editor in Chief
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Mojeh Izadpanah, photo by Nick Hudson
We’ve compiled just about every way to reap the rewards of life – from fashion to fitness to discovering your inner self – so you can start the New Year off as you wish for it to continue.
GROUND FLOOR FASHION AVENUE DUBAI MALL 04 3399 005 OSCARDELARENTA.COM
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Editor’s
New Year Luxe
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Move between the winter chill and spring-time sun in style, with light and easy daywear, evening essentials and luxury travel attire.
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1. Marc by Marc Jacobs | 2. Maison Martin Margiela @ net-a-porter.com | 3. Chanel | 4. Salvatore Ferragamo | 5. Dolce&Gabbana, Shine lipstick in Love | 6. Christian Louboutin | 7. Chanel
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8. Brian Atwood @ mytheresa.com | 9. Preen @Boutique1.com | 10. Fendi @ mytheresa.com | 11. Victoria Beckham | 12. Phillip Lim | 13. Oscar de la Renta @ net-a-porter.com | 14. YSL | 15. Linda Farrow Luxe
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In
A Floral Fairytale
In an exclusive interview, event planner Preston Bailey tells us how he expresses some of life’s greatest passions through his floral displays of art and awe-inspiring events.
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Preston Bailey
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F
lowers are joy, plain and simple,’ says world-famous event planner Preston Bailey, ‘there is nothing more rewarding than a beautiful garden blanketed with vibrant flowers.’ As women we’ve spent our lives surrounded by displays of affection articulated through the gifting of beautiful flowers. We’d watch in admiration as our fathers brought home bouquets of pink and red roses for our mothers just to say, I love you. The first days of spring were spent vibrantly running through blossoms and playfully decorating our hair with petals. As we grew older we learnt to appreciate the influence flowers held in keeping our homes alive, spoiling friends and family and instantly uplifting our own spirits. Preston Bailey is an event planner who builds dreams and sets passions alive through his visionary spectacles fit for queens (who just so happen to be his customers). With a list of clients – for whom Preston and his team organise well thought out days of perfection, sugar coated in artistic flower arrangements – including Oprah Winfrey, Jennifer Hudson, Catherine Zeta Jones and international Royal families, Preston Bailey is a man who knows only too well what truly makes a woman swoon. Preston began his career 30 years ago and prides himself on the ability to realise the dreams women have for their special days. ‘I had simply stumbled into the perfect career, a dream job. It’s incredible to hear about my clients’ fantasies and help them come alive during a big celebration, whether a wedding or a birthday,’ he says. Growing up in Panama, he cites his mother and her generosity as one of his greatest influences. ‘That serves as the basis for all of my events, creating a visually generous space,’ he says. He creates these spaces by expressing the thoughts and desires of his clients through lavish flower displays that leave onlookers breathless. ‘I learned the art of flower arrangements by simply practicing it,’ he adds. He was encouraged to enter the business by interior designer and friend Vicente Wolf, and one of his first clients was the world-famous Christie’s auction house.
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“One of my greatest pleasures is to run into a client who I worked with 20 years ago and she tells me that she still smiles with joy when thinking back to her special day.”
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Business flourished soon after and Preston has now become the most sought after in his colourful and plentiful field of design. ‘I was captivated by amazing old master paintings of flowers. I have always tried to think of designing flowers as art,’ he says. If he wanted to call himself an artist, he’d be just. Imagine stepping into a room on the day of your birthday, and the only thing more special than those in attendance is the magnificent displays of flowers in colours and styles perfectly in tune with your desires. Alternatively, envision yourself walking down the aisle and beginning your married life engulfed in a vision of splendour perfectly tailored to match your distinct partnership. ‘My clients are one of my greatest sources of inspiration, and I aim to give both the hosts and guests a memory that will last a lifetime,’ he says, ‘one of my greatest pleasures is to run into a client who I worked with 20 years ago and she tells me that she still smiles with joy when thinking back to her special day.’ Preston boasts a prominent list of clients and has developed a somewhat family business with recurring acquaintances. ‘The most sentimental floral arrangements I have created were for Oprah’s 50th birthday,’ he recalls, ‘it meant a great deal to me because she was one of the angels that changed my life. I am looking forward to her 60th.’ Undisclosed royals are also a favourite. ‘I love working on royal weddings because they are truly oneof-a-kind grand, fantastical events. I love nothing better than a client that pushes me to the limits of my imagination!’ So after dedicating his life to using flowers to turn other people’s fairy tales into realities, how can you please him with a bouquet? ‘Considering what I do for a living, very few people give me flowers! My favourites are orchids and I love a host of romantic flowers like peonies, roses, hydrangeas and sweet peas,’ he says. On a final note, what does passion mean to Preston Bailey, the man who devotes his life to articulating ours? ‘Passion is about growth, a never-ending need to blossom and be fearless about making mistakes. Mistakes are wonderful tools to learn from and develop,’ he says, ‘at the end of the day, it is about giving the best that you possibly can.’
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In All images courtesy of Preston Bailey Flowers.
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Belles
Society
Celebrated Woman in Society:
Desiree Bollier As women we quite rightly dedicate much of our time to ensuring we have the perfect wardrobes from season to season. Desiree Bollier is a woman who continually strives for the exceptional when it comes to fashion. Here she tells MOJEH how she completely transformed our shopping experience into a unique way to rejuvenate our fashion outlook through the Value Retail Project.
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esiree was born in Lebanon, educated in France and began her career in fashion on an international platform working for Ralph Lauren. After leaving her position as Vice President of Stores, Desiree partnered with Chairman Scott Malkin in reaction to a new age of shopping. Value Retail is a stylish set of nine shopping villages across Europe that feature small boutiques concentrating only on high-end luxury brands. Imagine walking into a beautifully constructed village with shop after shop of only your favourite designers with a chic cafe or restaurant on every corner. The unique selling proposition that makes thousands of stylish women flux to them every week? The wonderful assortment of clothes, shoes and accessories are from past seasons that are no longer available at regular malls and subsequently sit at comfortable prices. ‘Nine villages, chic outlet shopping and the type of value, innovation and creative thinking that myself and my team care a lot about,’ explains
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Desiree as she celebrates the Maasmechelen village’s 10th anniversary. As 21st century women we are continually on the look out for timeless and sophisticated pieces, and Desiree Bollier has ingeniously made this available to us in an environment that reflects absolute luxury and indulgence. ‘The fact that I could surprise women by creating a superb environment where they can feel like a million bucks, was such a compelling idea that we simply had to take the risk,’ said Desiree. By her own admission, she was gifted with a very eclectic background, surrounded by endless opportunities and many inspirational people. This has since stimulated her own sense of creativity. ‘I have been lucky throughout my life to have very powerful women around me,’ Desiree explains, ‘my grandmother was an inspiration as a child and my mother was such an elegant and sweet-spirited woman who was very distinct at the time in Lebanon. Then all throughout my
La Roca Village Barcelona, Spain
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Belles
Society
Belles
Society
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career I had very powerful women mentoring me.’ Today she hopes to be an inspiration for other young women. Through her role as Chief Executive at Value Retail, she not only inspires us to be smart and savvy business people, but has also been able to renovate the way we discover luxury. ‘I always follow my instincts in life. They are something people should listen to and I would always encourage young people to follow their own instincts too,’ she says. Value Retail began with an instinct that reacted to today’s global market and women’s shopping habits, which subsequently transpired into a smart business model offering fashion in a unique way. ‘Women today are very much intimate with fashion and follow it closely through the Internet and their own travels. Everything is accessible, yet they still want to remain unique,’ offers Desiree, ‘the Chic Outlet experience sets women on a quirky and unique treasure hunt where they’re bound to find something different to everyone else.’ The villages are now a fundamental enhancement to our modern day wardrobes. With a brand list that stretches from heritage names such as Ralph Lauren, Dior, Celine and Diane Von Furstenberg, to lesser-established, younger labels, the desire factor is certainly present in each of the villages. ‘There’s a mix of uniqueness from diversified brands, which gives the woman her own style confidence. I’m seeing this happen in front of my eyes,’ says Desiree. Like the women who enjoy the shopping villages, Desiree has built a very successful life on travelling the globe and gratifying her cultural curiosities whilst staying true to her heritage. ‘For a very long time I didn’t get to visit Lebanon because life had taken me to different places, but recently I have been going often and I connect to it very much,’ says Desiree, ‘in my heart it’s still my roots.’ ‘Every woman loves quality; quality remains quality and no woman (quite rightly) wants to trade down,’ says Desiree, ‘our villages fit perfectly these uncompromising appetites with superb boutiques and great partnerships with brands.’ The Middle Eastern woman in particular finds her shopping sanctuary at each of the villages across Europe. They cater to the well-travelled sophisticated set who know their brands, love timeless pieces and adore good cuts in eternal fabrics. ‘Each one of the villages has a mix of repertoire; some are quintessentially Parisian, some English or Milanese. If she happens to be in Belgium one year, Paris the next, etc, she will be able to venture out and discover something new in each one,’ says Desiree.
La Rozas Village Madrid, Spain
Memoir
Mojeh
Behind the Lens
‘When I moved to Australia from Abu Dhabi at the age of 15, I couldn’t speak any English. I wanted to explore but I was very shy so I used the camera as a shield to hide behind – this is when we became very good friends, the camera and I.’ Photographer and owner of Capital D Studio, Ayaad Damouni recalls his first moments in the industry and that fateful encounter with Karl Lagerfeld.
Self-portrait by Ayaad Damouni
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Memoir
Mojeh
Miranda Kerr for the Joe the Taxi Driver campaign
“The beautiful thing about photography is that you never feel that you have made it at any stage.”
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t never crossed my mind that one day I would actually be building a business out of photography. My love for it dates back to my early childhood. I remember my parents kept boxes and boxes of photos as if they were treasures. I have vivid memories of sitting around with my entire family, whilst my parents went through each image and recalled the stories of what was happening in that moment and who each of the people were. I don’t think that they ever repeated a single story – there were that many pictures and that many tales to be told. I was working at a café in Sydney and studying Graphic Design when my opportunity came completely by chance. My friend was assisting a photographer and had doublebooked himself, so he asked me to fill in for him as a favour. The photographer actually ended up working better with me than his usual assistants and I took on another job with him for which he paid me AU$8o. I was so shocked to actually get paid for something that I considered pure fun. That was when I quit Graphic Design and dedicated my life to photography. The beautiful thing about photography is that you never feel that you have made it at any stage – the road is ever changing and it is near impossible to get bored. It is enjoyable to push and challenge yourself and the people you work with to create better images to make the simplest things look beautiful and intriguing in the final shot. For many years I feared becoming a commercial photographer. I felt I had an artistic gift and that it was almost sinful to commercialise it. I even had shoots in the early days that overcome by guilt, I had to unwillingly drag myself to. Gradually, I learned that photography has two sides that meet regularly and often overlap. Highlights for me include shooting the likes of Miranda Kerr and Eva Green – intriguing people who fascinate beyond their fame. I love fashion, photography and art. I love making pictures. I enjoy the process and I love documenting life. One of my greatest and most exciting projects to date happened back in the summer of 2008. I got a call at 9am whilst on a break with my wife in Oman. It was a request to shoot a portrait of a very famous fashion designer, but the caller was not able
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to reveal their name due to the mystery subject’s unconfirmed travel plans. The only information I was privy to was the location: the World Islands off the Dubai coastline. We went to the island for a recce, very well aware that it was the month of May and extremely humid. It was literally patches of sand in the ocean with temperatures soaring above 35 degrees – not the most ideal conditions for shooting on location! To add to the heat of the situation, I still had no clue who I was shooting. I had some ideas based on the vague brief that I was given considering the logistics of the shoot, but I didn’t really know how to approach the shoot without knowing in advance who my subject was. Did we need props? What was their style/look? All I knew was that there was going to be a lot of post needed on the grey foggy sky, but everything else was a bit of a blank. It wasn’t until a week or so later that I got the call. The mystery
Memoir
Not only was he one of the most famous fashion designers of our time but also a famous fashion photographer. I introduced myself, pretending not to feel the pressure at all! ‘I just want you to be yourself,’ I said. ‘I am always myself,’ he replied. The next challenge was to get him to stand still for the picture. He constantly moved around and made random comments, wandering here and there. A few minutes into the shoot it was clear that I had to abandon my plan and work with the situation at hand. For the next 45 minutes I struggled to get the shot that I had artfully planned in my mind. That’s the most exhilarating part of my job though – the spontaneity and the improvisation! Finally, his PR manager decided that his time with us was up. She came and thanked me and told me that Karl had to get back. I shook his hand and thanked him for his time as they all started heading towards the boat. The day had come to an end, and the winning shot would be on the film…or so I thought. We began to part ways when something suddenly caught my eye. I ran up to Karl and asked him if he could come back for one minute to do a few extra shots. His entourage was already boarding the boat and at this point, it was only my assistant and me. We took a couple of shots – he was relaxed – and it was only then that I found what I’d been looking for. Relieved and feeling somewhat satisfied, I took my usual self-portrait with him (a tradition of mine when I shoot) and it was all over. All I really needed at that point was a cool shower and a change of clothes. When you have a gift or a natural talent it’s much nicer to share it than keep it to yourself. My love for photography started at a young age and I decided to passionately pursue it when I used to look at elderly people and think there would come a time when I’d have to leave my passions behind. I realised later that there have been great photographers on the verge of blindness who continue to follow their dream while their assistants focus their lens for them. The fact that you could do something your entire life without worrying about the end was inspiring to me. Perhaps the greatest trait of photography is that it paves the way for reinvention and will keep you young through that perfect moment captured in time.
Mojeh
shoot would take place the following day. The subject? Karl Lagerfeld. The call itself sparked mass panic as my team and I rushed straight to the studio to prepare. The following day, with a truckload of equipment behind us, we arrived at the pier to load the boat and head out to the island. Our ‘transport’ looked more like a tugboat than a proper boat and we ended up needing three to take all the equipment and crew across to the island. All the while the temperature was 36 degrees and the humidity was at 80 percent. On the island it took us around two hours to unload, move across the sand and get all the equipment ready for the shoot. About an hour later we saw a huge yacht mooring out on the island with an entourage of around 30 people heading towards us on dinghies. Amongst the crowd was a man, completely recognizable by his iconic long silver hair and black and white outfit. I was in complete awe of his presence.
“When you have a gift or a natural talent it’s much nicer to share it than keep it to yourself. ”
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Carbon 12 Gallery owner Nadine Knotzer opens up the doors of her gallery and shares her stylish world with us.
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Photographed by Altamash Urooj Santana
rowing up in a family of art enthusiasts, Nadine took on independent study to pursue her passion for the industry. She met her partner Kourosh Nouri and after their first date at an exhibition on German Expressionism in Vienna, they went on to set up the Carbon 12 Gallery in Dubai together four years ago. Today Nadine’s lifestyle revolves around art – whether working with the exhibitions in her gallery, liaising with collectors or entertaining artists. Like any young woman however, she still loves to kick back and spend time with her girlfriends when her schedule allows for it. Nadine follows the world of fashion with a close eye – reflected in her achingly cool style choices – and loves to mix high-end with high street and vintage on occasion. Today she wears Ayesha Depala and stands in front of a painting by a favourite artist of the moment, Katherine Bernhardt.
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On this page: Painting: ‘Marc Jacobs glasses’ by Katherine Bernhardt | Books from top to bottom: Germania by Saatchi, ICE CREAM by Phaidon Editors, Pancha Tantra by Walton Ford | Coffee mug: Pylones | Glasses: Claire Goldmith | Notebook: Moleskine | Pen: Faber Castel | Figure in right corner: ‘Social Panopticum II’ by Philip Mueller.
insider
Style
My Stylish Life
insider
Style The IVY,
Eggs Benedict Kiehl’s, Acai moisturizer.
Sara Rahbar, ‘Shekareh Ahoo’.
Dining ro
om
Frederic Malle, Lipstick Rose fragrance.
Favourite art: I love way too many artists and artworks. At this moment I would choose Sara Rahbar’s ‘War Series’. Favourite gadget: IPod | Luggage: Pink Samsonite
Favourite restaurant: The IVY | Favourite meal: Eggs Benedict styling: Potion 9 Lite by Sebastian, Bed Head After-Party by TIGI
Moisturiser: Acai Serum and Acai Moisturiser by Kiehl’s | Perfume: Lipstick Rose by Frederic Malle
Hairdresser: Jet Set at Grosvenor House Dubai | Grooming products: Gentle Scalp Cleansing shampoo by Aesop
Vienna, Austria
Rosemary’s Baby movie
From left to right image by: Richard Jung Photography/the food passionates/Corbis, Mark Karrass/Corbis, Bettmann/Corbis, Pascal Le Segretain/Getty.
Patrick Suskind, Perfume
Manchette Amelia bracelet, Philippe Audibert
Dasha Zhukova
Style icon: Dasha Zhukova | Favourite accessory: Bracelet by Philippe Audibert
Favourite vintage store: Didier Ludot in Paris | Most loved fairytale: Peter Pan Favourite discovery: America | Favourite book: Perfume by Parick Suskind Favourite musician: I am really into Nicky Minaj these days.
Favourite movie: Rosemary’s Baby by Roman Polanski | Favourite place in the world: My home in Vienna Favourite things in life: Home-cooked meals with friends and summers in Europe You could never live without: Art
Claire Goldsmith, Cosby glasses
Miu Miu @ net-a-porter.com Ballon Bleu , Cartier
Lanvin @ net-a-porter.com
Chloe @ mytheresa.com
Style is: Something that everyone has to figure out for themselves | Best piece of advice: Stay focused Your last purchase: Reading glasses from Claire Goldsmith | Favourite, Dress: Lanvin
Shirt: Zara | Jeans: GAP | Day bag: Dark blue Marcie by Chloe | Heels: Christian Louboutin, Miu Miu Watch: Ballon Bleu Cartier | Designers: Rick Owens, Azzedine Alaia
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We’ve compiled a delectable list of things to be inspired by this January and February. From passion fruit-coloured makeup palettes, heart-shaped rings, vibrantly coloured Louboutin’s to die for and small ways to care for your mind and body, we’ve selected 10 little quirks to kick start your year ahead.
Cacharel AW 2011 collection.
hotlist
Passion
Passion Hotlist
Passionate Prints Cacharel’s autumn/winter statement print is a juicy and exotic example of what we should be wearing to uplift our winter spirits. The wild design intertwines deep purples, peach reds and sky blues with the added hints of stark yellow. It’s cool, a little bit crazy, and the big encounters with passion flowers are perfect in keeping with your month ahead.
AROMATHERAPY ASSOCIATES, Relax Deep bath and shower oil, De-Stress muscle bath and shower oil, Frankincense pure essential oil.
Relax and Unwind Take good care of yourself and regain harmony with some much deserved you time. These natural bath creams and body oils from Aromatherapy Associates have been created with restoration and relaxation in mind using the perfect blends of lavender, ylang ylang, petitgrain and frankincense. A healthy body makes for a healthy mind, so never feel bad about spending some much needed time with yourself.
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Lovely Louboutins Christian Louboutin will always be a girls best friend and for good reason. The shoe designer continually exerts his love for fashion, women and style and has made his name in the industry through his continual support for the aesthetics of elegance and grace. Guaranteed you already have at least one pair of Louboutins taking centre stage in your wardrobe, but do you have this delightful pair of Bambou in amethyst suede?
Passion
hotlist
Passion Fruit Salad INGREDIENTS: 450g (1 lb) strawberries cut in half 150g (5½oz) raspberries 100g (3½oz) blackberries 100g (3½oz) blueberries 100g (3½oz) mixed redcurrants and blackcurrants 2 passion fruits squeezed 1 Tbs caster sugar ½ juice of lemon
METHOD: Mix the berries and currents together in a bowl and then squeeze the passion fruit juice into the berries. Then add the sugar and lemon. Place the passion fruit seeds into a serving glass and put the berry mixture on top. Decorate with fresh flower petals and serve chilled.
Wear your Heart on your Hand Chopard’s Ardent Heart ring from their Valentine’s collection is simply passion wrapped up in perfection. The purple Paraiba tourmaline, enhanced by white diamonds layered on a twirledshaped 18-carat rose gold ring, is a dazzling display of love and affection. Gold and diamonds gently embrace the centre stone, purposefully evoking the entwined arms of a couple in love.
Image by Lawton/photocuisine/Corbis.
Mulberry Minded How many times have you been told to ‘write everything down’? With Mulberry’s Leopard Padlock Notebook there’s no excuse not to keep track of all those New Year’s resolutions, daily targets and weekly thoughts. The classic Scotchgrain A5 sized notebook can easily fit inside your classic Bayswater, whilst the leather and studded edge will keep it clean and neat all year around.
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‘After women, flowers are the most lovely thing God has given the world.’ - Christian Dior An aesthete and a rebel, Christian Dior grew up in Granville, on the cliffs of Normandy, in a house buffeted by strong winds and seemingly unsuited to the creation of a garden. However, the young man’s creative strength and relentless hard work defied nature, and today one can still admire the garden in bloom and in particular, the fantastic rose garden planted with his own hands. Articulate such passion into your daily makeup routine with this dreamy array of pastel colours from Dior beauty. The palette is representative of a fantastic garden, where flashes of festive violet and floral green exhilarate romantic hearts.
Heavenly Havens Home is where the heart is, and the start of the year is the perfect time to rethink your surroundings and design a home that is perfectly synched to your life and style. Susanna Salk’s new book Be Your Own Decorator presents a wide array of beautiful and unique interiors paired with resourceful information from leading designers to help homeowners create their own euphoria. Covering a diverse selection of styles, from traditional and vintage to sleek and modern, Susanna Salk’s book is the perfect companion to any redesign, big or small.
AGENT PROVOCATEUR, Fenella set, Raphaella Corset, Penelope Basque.
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Eternally in Love
Underneath it All
There’s nothing quite like a vintage romance to remind us just how dramatic and powerful love can be. Curl up in front of 1942’s Casablanca and watch the love affair unfold. Through tragedy, comedy, desire and passion, Humphrey Bogart and Ingrid Bergman set the stage for a whirlwind ride.
No matter what you’re wearing, if you feel adorable and lady-like from the inside you’ll always have a confident smile on the outside. Underwear is the first thing you put on in the morning, and Agent Provocateur’s luxurious collection gives you the right mindset to feel passionate about your body before the day even begins. These shapely pieces are exquisitely built in sensual tones that make you feel classy, sophisticated and beautifully kept more than just skin deep.
Clockwise images by: John Springer Collection/Corbis, Matthew Millman, Mateo Ramirez, Thomas Loof.
Rose Perfect Face
Available from April at Rizzoli.
Passion
DIOR, 5 Couleurs eyeshadow palette in Garden Roses.
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Keep your look light and fresh for the New Year by allowing an influx of white into your wardrobe. Stella McCartney is a designer who continually reflects clean and timeless styles and this season is no different with her head-to-toe whites in magnificent displays of perfection. Alexander McQueen’s kneelength dress is perfect dressed up or down; try adding Louis Vuitton’s leather gloves for a touch of class. If all white is too classic for your liking, introduce some beige and creams such as Chloe’s boots and Marni’s bangle to breakdown block colour.
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1. stella mccartney | 2&3. marni | 4. marc jacobs | 5. chloe | 6. burberry | 7. carolina herrera | 8. alexander mcqueen @ net-a-porter.com
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Tea parties are the perfect excuse to be in great company… and of course shop for some impeccably prim and proper style. Tibi’s white and black organza detail dress is as lavish as the cupcakes being served, whilst Carolina Herrera’s grey and silver jacquard dress is as gloriously polished as the tableware. For delicate but girly accessories, look to Antonini and Gucci for a dash of colour entwined in gold and diamond delights. Your bag will always induce attention and these enduringly gentle Nina Ricci and Hermes numbers are a fail-safe tea party choice.
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Be inspired by invigorating colours to uplift your spirits and start your New Year off with a bang of bursting shades and textures. Christopher Kane’s sleeveless dress encapsulates the theme with an array of exotic shades complimenting one another in a passionate mix. Alternatively, stick with just two dashing shades such as Giambattista Valli’s yellow gold and bright pink dress – just the right amount of vigour to pack a punch in any situation. Pomellato’s orange and blue stoned rings add some quirky fun to the style whilst Aurélie Bidermann’s bronzed necklace is the perfect hue to compliment a rainbow of delights.
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The Dream Teller
This season the house of Dior and photographer Patrick Demarchelier share their stunning relationship for the world to see in an exquisite display of couture imagery. The meeting of minds is celebrated in a new book from Rizzoli, Dior Couture by Patrick Demarchelier, and here MOJEH showcases exclusive imagery in celebration of the exceptional photographer.
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f there’s one artist who captures the passion and romance behind fashion, grace and beauty better than any, it’s photographer Patrick Demarchelier. The world’s most esteemed designers and fashion editors have entrusted their visions in his hands for decades, which he time and again morphs into decadent dreams of desire and aspiration. Whether working with a young fashion house, an esteemed couturier, a Hollywood superstar, a supermodel or even the elephant in the room (quite literally if we refer back to his art works) one residing factor remains in each piece – an untouched passion for the craft led from behind the camera lense. Demarchelier is celebrated for the trust he gains with his subjects and the house of Dior Couture is one with which he has enjoyed an opulent relationship. Demarchelier has admired Dior Haute Couture from the first show in 1947 to today and showcased the works of its greats, from Christian Dior himself to his successors, Yves Saint Laurent, Marc Bohan and John Galliano. For him, it’s the birthplace of ‘unique pieces that are veritable sculptures’ and proves to be a modern and timeless magic that flirts with eternity. For the fashion world, Demarchelier is a key attributer to that untouched world of timeless magic. From Shangai to Times Square, the Grand Staircase of the Paris Opera House to the garden of the Musée Rodin, Patrick Demarchelier captures all that is quintessentially Dior, which is in turn quintessentially beautiful.
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This page: Tailleur Classique Collection Dior Haute Couture Automne hiver 1954, ligne H Next page: Haute Couture collection spring-summer 2011
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Haute Couture Dior Collection Printemps ete 1947 Tailleur Bar Ligne Corolle
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Your Life. Styled. louisfourteen.com
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Belgian Beauty
nouck Lepere is one of Belgium’s most famous models and with good reason. This 32-year-old has had a stellar career from her first runway debut at her friend Dries Van Noten’s fashion show in 1999, becoming the face of Hugo Boss, winning campaigns for Missoni and Louis Vuitton, a stint as a Victoria’s Secret Angel and a French Playboy cover. Her passions have changed throughout her incredible career and these days are channelled through her charity work. Lepere is an ambassador for Kageno Worldwide, a not-for-profit organisation that helps rebuild impoverished communities into places of opportunity. Much more than a pretty face, Lepere is a model citizen and here she talks exclusively to MOJEH about modelling, the fashion industry and giving back when you can.
What was your early life as a model like?
I started working very hard in the beginning, mostly in New York and the workload was heavy from the very start. Now I enjoy it because I know myself more. In the beginning you work so hard and you don’t really know how to take care of yourself, but now I’m more self assured and confident – it’s more fun.
What was the first expensive item you bought after your first big pay cheque?
It’s much more mixed, there are a lot more Asian girls – it’s well balanced now I feel. For me modelling is like winning the lottery. It’s like winning a prize that you suddenly can do and make a career out of. It’s a very funny career; every time I get a job I’m like oh my god!
Definitely shoes, I bought really nice heels. I think my first expensive pair were Balenciaga. Now I stop buying shoes and concentrate on clothes. My shoes have become overpowering in my closet. I have too many shoes! I feel like 12 years ago shoes were so much more affordable. When I started shopping the most expensive shoes were about $500, now they’re like $5,000! The price of shoes is out of control, it just keeps going up and up; it’s a problem!
Who was your mentor in your early years?
If you could only save one item, what would you save from your closet?
What do you think of the industry today?
Nicolas Ghesquiere and Chanel were the two designers I worked a lot for and Olivier Theyskens and Raf Simons were also important to me. Nicolas was the most difficult. The shoes were always so extreme; it was always the most difficult walk. With Tom Ford at Gucci there was a catwalk made of mirrors which was not easy to walk on top of. On the way back you were faced with a wall of mirrors so you couldn’t see where the exit was. It was a huge incredible illusion, but very difficult to navigate.
What is your beauty routine?
I switch around a lot because I feel like I need to. I feel like it’s important to spend money
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on good products for your skin. I personally feel like you have to treat it well because you’re going to have to live with this skin for the rest of your life.
Probably something that has more of an emotional attachment, like this dress I’m wearing today from my mum that she wore when she was young.
What is your biggest passion in life?
For the last two years it has been a charity I have been working with, Kageno. I also have a jewellery line which I started before I became a model. Architecture is a passion as well, but working with this non-profit charity is my newest passion now. It’s funny, when you get older you are more aware and you want to be involved in anything that allows you to help in someway, and there is a lot in this world to help out with.
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Clockwise image by: Thos Robinson/Getty, Chris Jackson/Getty, Michael Loccisano/Getty.
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Show me In celebration of MOJEH’s Passion issue, we’ve selected some of the most loveable fashion moments of the season. From an artist’s overwhelming amour
A/W 2011
Issey Miyake Always the fashion educator (in both style and technique), designer Dai Fujiwara bid farewell to the Issey Miyake house after five years by taking audiences on an illustrated journey back to the beginning of design. Instead of entering the catwalk in traditional style – wearing perfected gowns sculpted within an inch of their life – models stood before us as artisans worked on their designs, cutting, folding and pinning right before our eyes. In just a few short minutes, Dai Fujiwara and his team wrapped up the passion and craft that goes into the making of a collection through a subtle and ingenious reminder that although the speed at which we consume fashion may be increasing with each season, what goes on behind the scenes remains the same.
Adam Sometimes we forget that the love and loyalty women have for fashion transcends much further than runways, magazines and boutiques as Adam Lippes of Adam reminded us with his a/w 2011 collection. After the factory (holding half his collection) burned down not long before show day, the designer enlisted the help of a local ladies’ knitting group to reclaim his collection. The result was a show filled with sentimental and genuine designs, pulled together by the enduring love for fashion shared by a group of women.
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Image by Hulton-Deutsch Collection at Corbis
A/W 2011
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the Love
as inspiration, an unapologetically romantic designer and the return of the runways most desirable supermodel, it’s been a wonderfully ardent season!
A/W 2011
Prabal Gurung Just two years into his own label, Prabal Gurung has youth on his side, allowing him to act out every now and again and showcase a thousand different emotions at any one time (like any adolescent would). And this season that very spontaneity has done the designer a world of good as his collection plays out a rollercoaster of dark desires, theatrical revelations, loneliness and lavish irrationalism, all inspired by Charles’s Dickens’s character Miss Havisham. Through heightened beauty to faded love, each design reflects an animated emotion that proves beauty can prevail in even the most heartrending of situations. The collection and its designer are a gloriously sporadic display of the zeitgeist.
S/S 2011
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Erdem The designer who continually creates visions of dreamy innocence and modest romance through his collections alive with lace, flowers and watery hues broke out this season creating a scene of unadulterated passion and wild desire. His muse was an artist’s wife who looses control and destroys her husband’s canvases out of sheer frustration and heartbreak. The result was a vigorous collection imploding with fiery violet, electric blue and wild purple – in short, those colours your vision recalls each time your heart bleeds.
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Christian Dior with fashion models, 1950
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The Dior Artisans
Christian Dior As the lights came on at the Dior a/w 2011 runway (around the same time that Galliano awaited his trial over racist comments) CEO Sidney Toledano took the opportunity to add some sweetness to the bitter air that had surrounded the house in recent weeks. ‘Since its founding by Monsieur Dior, the House of Christian Dior has lived an extraordinary and wonderful story… Christian Dior’s values were those of excellence in all that he undertook, of elegance and of craftsmanship reflecting his unique talent. His mission was not only to make his clients – indeed all women – more beautiful, but also to make them happy, to help them dream…The heart of the House of Dior, which beats unseen, is made up of its teams and studios, of its seamstresses and craftsmen, who work hard day after day, never counting the hours, and carrying on the value and the vision of Monsieur Dior.’ At the end of the show, the Dior artisans valiantly took a bow in front of the well-wishing audience, in a true moment of austerity and triumph. In one fell swoop, we were all reminded of the heart behind the brand; a bittersweet beginning of a new era for Dior.
A/W 2011
S/S 2012
No leaf was left unturned at the Marc Jacobs show for Louis Vuitton as fashion’s most-wanted supermodel was lured back to the catwalk in a vision of lust and sex appeal. With a cigarette dangling from her mouth and an outfit that showcased the essence of why Kate Moss has remained at the heart of the industry for over two decades, the moment wrapped up Kate’s character in two words: dishevelled beauty. Solidifying the idea that the industry’s love for Kate is eternal (particularly for Jacobs) was her next appearance at the Louis Vuitton s/s 2012 collection.
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Image by Bettaman at Corbis
Louis Vuitton
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Family Values
There’s nothing as strong as family bonds, and in the case of these next MOJEH interviewees, talent flows freely from generation to generation. Backed by a familiar second name, these gifted ingÊnues are building on the family name whilst carving their own path for a bright future.
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A Woman of Many Talents
As the daughter-in-law of fashion designer Diane Von Furstenberg, Alexandra is a fashion-cuminterior designer who proves that family creativity doesn’t just run through blood relatives. Here we find out how she made the move from designer at the DVF fashion house to furniture designer in her own chic interior company.
Has furniture design always been a life long goal for you and how did it develop?
Actually furniture design was not my first goal. It came after a decade in fashion. I always had a passion for all things design – fashion, art, architecture, interior design and furniture. I appreciate beautiful creations.
Where do you plan on taking your creative passions in the future?
Growing the brand into a lifestyle company. I design my products to evoke a feeling of stylish elegance in people’s homes. My furniture and home accessories work as functioning art to enhance a person’s home.
Alexandra Von Furstenberg and Diane Von Furstenberg at DVF Studio in 2008.
How do you come up with the concepts for your collections? What has most influenced you in your life?
Living in Asia, Europe and the United States has opened my eyes to so many different cultures, which influenced me greatly with my taste and sense of style. Also my own strength, willingness and enthusiasm for kindness continuously influence me. It’s all about your attitude in life.
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My concepts have come from many different things, from organic shapes to man-made objects. For example jewellery – the cuts of gemstones – or from working tools like bolts and screws. Something just inspires me and I go with it. All my pieces stand uniquely strong in their form.
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Style is style - that doesn’t change, and taste travels through both fashion and furniture. The reward was huge when I went from designing two-dimensional forms with clothing to fourdimensional forms with furniture.
In what ways does Diane von Furstenberg inspire you as both a designer and a woman?
She inspires me daily in work and in play. She is a fantastic grandmother to my children, great to work with and best of all a wonderful friend. She inspires me by her drive and passions for life and encourages me to explore new heights.
Passion is my attitude and the attention that I place towards special things or relationships with people, whether it is my family, friends or work. With family and friends, passion keeps my true love for them alive. It nourishes love’s endless appetite for more love, which keeps us bonded together as family, intimate friends or soul mates. With my work, passion is the driving force that fills me every day with the enthusiasm to give it my all. It is the seed to my creativity and to the inspiration of a new idea or to the reinvention of an old one. It’s passion, which motivates me to not just be inspired to have new ideas, but to take the next step in making my ideas into a realisation. In general, I don’t struggle with passion; for the most part it flows, feels and develops completely naturally within me. It’s pure joy when you are passionate about something; it’s invigorating. It is the core from where all things I love and love to do begins, from working in fashion, to becoming a mother, to starting my very own business, to falling in love.
Examples of her recent collection.
Image by Astrid Stawiarz/Getty.
What does passion mean to you?
What advice would you offer women when re-working their household interiors? Use colour as accents – they are the highlight to any room. Cluttered or overly decorated rooms are distracting to the eye. Choose fewer items, but strong pieces of furniture. You want to streamline the feeling of a room creating a sense of peace.
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Simone Rocha photographed by Neil Gavin.
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Simone Rocha Cut From The Same Cloth
While certain talents can be inherited, it’s our passion that drives us to pursue them and to achieve more than we even realised we could. Personifying this concept is young designer Simone Rocha, daughter to the legendary John Rocha.
Simone Rocha for Topshop 2011
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ashion design came as a birthright to Irish designer Simone Rocha. Her enviable design DNA comes courtesy of her father, mentor and fellow designer, the legendary John Rocha. However, Simone is no cookie-cutter version of her father and she has an innate creativity that is all her own. ‘Designing is in my blood but I always knew I wanted to do something creative,’ she says. John Rocha entered the world of fashion in the 1980s and by 1993 he was named designer of the year at the British Fashion Awards. Nowadays, he continues to solidify his reputation as an international stalwart of fashion, revered the world over for his intricate hand-crafting, beading and appliqué garments and adored by red carpet regulars for his sheer evening wear, rich fabrics with hand painted designs and crocheted knitwear – see devotees such as the smouldering Eva Mendes and the statuesque Tilda Swinton for reference . Now, he has another achievement to be proud of – the remarkable success of his 25-year-old daughter. Simone is putting her own unique stamp on the industry, having picked up her first set of pins at the tender age of 11. ‘I’ve done everything that could have possibly been done, from the running orders right down to the models socks,’ she exclaims. Despite an early entry into the world of fashion, Simone went on to fully hone her skills at degree level in the National College of Art and Design in Dublin before moving to London to undertake the esteemed Fashion MA at Central Saint Martins. After graduating, Simone’s quirky take on androgynous tailoring for women instantly caught the eye of Fashion East founder and sartorial scout, Lulu Kennedy. Simone showed twice on the Fashion East runways at London Fashion Week and this season she showcased her first independent show. It’s in Paris that the real worth of a collection is measured, and showing her wares to some of the most eminent buyers in the fashion industry, Simone has no cause for concern as she has already received a global following. Her stockists read like a who’s who of international boutiques: The Cult LA and Miami boutique, Curve, the exclusive I.T in Hong Kong, the ubertrendy OAK in New York and the legendary Collette in Paris. Simone’s style credentials were certified once again when she was called upon to collaborate with style arbitrator Topshop on a capsule collection that introduced runway-worthy garments to the high street. There are some similarities between Simone and John’s designs; they both produce artful and romantic garments, but in contrast hers are interjected with a youth and vibrancy that could only come from young eyes. Think unusual fabric combinations such as delicate lace suspended in stiff plastic and unexpected colour pops like watermelon pink and acid green drifting amid a sea of monochrome. Her designs are unusual – the perfect antidote to capsule a wardrobe that has turned staple to stale. Put a twist on office attire and picture her mesh-sleeved white poplin shirt tucked casually into a pair of Chloe tailored trousers with YSL Tributes, or envision a dinner date wearing her black tailored jacket with shaggy fur sleeves over a Celine silk vest and Isabel Marant leather trousers; it’s a look that takes classic pieces and adds an element of fun. Having a Simone Rocha is like having the secret to inimitable personal style – a desirable idiosyncrasy. As well as the practical skills required to be a successful fashion designer, John Rocha has bestowed his daughter with a wellrounded approach to the unpredictable industry. With a 30-year career under his belt, he knows it can be a tough industry, and considering the current economic crisis it’s not easy for Simone struggling to establish her own line. Despite the hardships, she is dedicated to her craft, and thanks to a strong family philosophy, she has the strength of character necessary to carve out her own successful career. As she puts it, ‘Our family ethos is “We are who we are, we do what we do and we try to do it well.” If you try to be in this industry without being yourself you’ll never be happy.’
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Simone Rocha AW11
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Delfina Delettrez Fendi Family
Rapunzel brooch .
Tourbillon 8 circles bracelet.
Gold Tourbillon ring.
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magine being born into a family that created Fendi, one of the world’s most famous fashion houses, where your mother Silvia thrived as Creative Director and of which Karl Lagerfeld now sits at the helm. Welcome to the life of a fourth generation Fendi woman, Delfina Delettrez, where brains, beauty, fashion, creativity and desire are a birthright. How does the 23-year-old heir follow in the footsteps of her family’s passions whilst carving a name for herself? By creating a killer jewellery range that nurtures the Fendi heritage whilst tending to the passions of Delfina’s own generation. Delfina works with gold, silver, iron, copper, Tuscan marble and mixes organic materials with precious stones, diamonds and pearls. She utilises polished metals, emphasising bright and ostentatious coloured varnishes. Delfina’s collections reflect her strong personality and the stories of a passionate childhood, along with her current feminine maturity. Each piece is preciously created and since it’s launch in 2007, Delfina has offered a multitude of pieces fit for any urban princess. Leave it up to a Fendi woman to enlighten our sartorial senses decade after decade.
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Gold Panther ring.
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All pieces from the ‘roll-in-stones’ collection.
Karl Lagerfeld and Delfina at the Hogan by Karl Lagerfeld RTW SS12 in Paris.
Gold Rapunzel ring.
Delfina at the ‘Liaisons Au Louvre II’ Charity Gala Dinner at Musee du Louvre in 2011 in Paris.
Silvia Venturini Fendi and Delfina at the Uomo Vogue Hosts Dinner For Quentin Tarantino in 2010.
How does it feel to come from such a fabulous family of Fendi women?
Exciting for me and my sister since it’s a family where women are dominant…less exciting for my brother!
Gold Tourbillon earrings.
As a fourth generation Fendi was it always your plan to go into design?
Yes, I always wanted to be involved in fashion and design. My family always taught me to use my fantasy and apply a high dose of creativity to solve any problems in life.
What design tips have you picked up from your family? Commit yourself totally with passion and take risks.
What is your first memory of jewellery?
My mother’s solitaire ring because she would always take it off her hand before bathing me.
Clockwise: Images by: Yves Forestier/Getty, Pascal Le Segretain/Getty, Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty.
Your past collections have taken inspiration from art, nature and fashion designers. What particularly inspired your autumn/winter collection?
Roll-in-stones was inspired by movement and rotation: bracelets, earrings and rings that move in almost psychedelic ways, changing colours and shapes. Tourbillon is the most representative piece in the collection.
Ring in pink and chocolate silver with baroque pearl.
What materials are you favouring for the season?
Pop colour enamel and rose and white gold because they create such a good contrast.
Do you stick to the same design motifs or use each new season as a blank canvas?
I don’t give myself any limits, but I am very obsessive with some elements that are always present in each collection. These include anthropomorphic and zoomorphic elements like eyes, lips or even insects.
Silver necklace with baroque pearls.
You are a fashion icon and trendsetter. Do you enjoy the industry and everything that comes with it? Yes I have a lot of fun, but I am also a mother and I adore the simplicities in life…or at least the right mix of them.
What inspires you most in life?
People I meet, people I love and people that I admire. Looking at them, seeing what they are wearing, how they move, how they talk. It is all a great source of inspiration. Even people from the past – I am crazy about strong personalities.
Big roll in stones silver bracelet.
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The New Year may have come and gone but that doesn’t mean the lavish ball and party invites will stop reigning over our social calendars which is good news since there are still plenty of extravagant gowns to choose from. Ever the inspirer of fairytale dreams, Marchesa’s lilac and silver embellished tulle gown is plentiful and beautifully dramatic. Of course, Oscar de la Renta is forever the go-to-guy for gloriously prolific eveningwear. Imagine stepping into the ballroom in that raspberry pink number. Simply sensational. Giorgio Armani’s drop necklace teamed with Jimmy Choo’s metallic woven heels is the perfect fairytale ensemble.
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Native style is still reigning strong, and the layered effect allows for the perfect transitional wardrobe between winter and spring weather. Take heed from the queen of cool Isabel Marant who is not afraid to team opposing fabrics and contrasting prints in one outfit. Be fearless with your own style and mix your canvases for true Navajo love. Balmain’s sequined shirt clashes with Louis Vuitton’s feathered earrings to create a style riot against Phillip Lim’s Aztec printed pants. Try playing with Hermes’s stacked bangles, layered above Jimmy Choo’s studded black bag, with the backdrop of Proenza Schouler’s printed smock. The main rule of thumb: if it doesn’t match then you’ve nailed Navajo!
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The body has been moving in and out of fashion for decades, but this season the classic has plenty to offer with a multitude of stylish and sultry spins. Donna Karan has cleverly constructed a silk shirt version that has onlookers doing a double take, whilst Willow takes on the timeless basque style that leaves nothing to the imagination. Let the body do the talking and keep the remainder of your outfit minimal. Les Chiffonier’s grey leather trousers, Chanel’s classic diamond cuff and Louboutin’s black booties are the perfect subtle touch. 4
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Take inspiration from Naeem Khan’s ivory kaftan with dazzling gold embellishment and ensure all heads turn your way this month. The Das collection is forever on top of our Abaya choices with clean lines, body morphing styles and regal embellishments making for the perfect cover-ups in beautifully executed designs. Lavender, teal green, ivory and gold are on our accessory wish list, and Gucci, Jimmy Choo and Ralph Lauren have come up with the goods.
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Home
Close to
The Pearl of Perfection MOJEH interviews founder and designer of the Mauzan fashion house, where women internationally continue to find their style haven.
The Designer, H.E Rafia Helal Bin Drai.
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auzan is named after the very rare and intricate pearl and the design house, lead by Al Ain-born H.E Rafia Helal Bin Drai is perfectly reflective of the exceptional beauty of pearls. With three mainline collections – Mauzan, Mauzan Exclusive and Miss Mauzan – women across the region and the globe are treated to contemporary designs which respect their heritage whilst offering a touch of remarkably feminine and elegant confidence. ‘My designs allow women to be confident and classy, but never over the top,’ says the designer ‘my inspiration is always the woman who wears my collections.’ The dresses, kaftans and abayas engulf the feminine shape in a beautiful blend of luxurious fabrics cut in complementary shapes that leave the wearer looking taller and slimmer. The art is in the embellishment as intricate patterns in regal or floral designs – built from hand beading or panels of complimentary fabrics – draw in admiring eyes. As rule of thumb, the house celebrates the impact black has on our aesthetic choices. ‘Everyone loves black, it’s an international and classical colour,’ says H.E Rafia Helal Bin Drai. An increasing influence on the collections however comes from travelling the world and rejoicing in Mother Nature, as a continuation of luxurious and opulent colours lifts the house to new heights. One autumn/ winter design for example mixes gold and bronze with enriching blues and milky creams in an enigmatic dream scene of fashion indulgence. ‘I have to recreate with each new line, but the same inspiration is there,’ explains the designer, ‘I have very loyal clients and I love it when they come and tell me how confident they feel and how many compliments they’re receiving.’ The triumph of the house inevitably comes down to the designer. Like most successful designers today, she is blessed with both a creative and business mind and has found success in taking the lead in both aspects of her business. Designing from a very young age, her father helped her to set up business 20 years ago and she’s been going from strength to strength ever since, now with her own boutiques and concessions internationally, a perfume line and shoes and bags to follow in the near future. Mauzan’s appeal invariably reaches out to a wide audience of women from all ages and backgrounds finding their comfort and style confidence within the brand. Whether you need a beautifully crafted abaya for a family occasion, a conservative yet classy dress for your social engagements or even an elegant trouser and shirt combination for a business dinner, the chosen design – along with the statement embellishment and amorous array of colour and fabrics – is perpetually something fit for a queen. Designs from the Mauzan collection.
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Love Always
As the autumn/winter 2011 season comes to a close, now is the time to shop wisely and only invest in timeless pieces that will sit pretty in your wardrobe for seasons to come. From the perfect white shirt to classic materials like tweed and leather, MOJEH showcases those items that aren’t so much fleeting trends, but ones you’ll love for years to come.
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Tweeds
akris
One of life’s greatest lessons is to learn from the past in order to move forward. Well, fashion history tells us that tweed is one of style’s everlasting stories, from the original days of Coco Chanel (fantastically revisited by Karl Lagerfeld each season) to today’s tailored versions by Donna Karan and Akris. Use tweed to move forward year after year.
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The White Shirt
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It’s impossible to make a bad investment when shopping for a white shirt. Ralph Lauren and Dior play it safe with classic pieces that have been part of fashion’s DNA for decades. Alternatively, invest in less ‘clean’ styles such as Haute’s playful number and Paul Smith’s crisp and oversized version – the chances are you’ll get a bigger return on your investment when no other woman can find the same white style next season.
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mila schon
louis vuitton
lanvin
haute
dior
paul smith
ralph lauren
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Fur
mulberry
Real fur, faux fur, teddy fur, pony fur…fur fur fur! Look to pieces from Loewe, Lanvin and Mulberry and you’re guaranteed to find a place for it in your winter wardrobe for years to come. Keep the style transitional, the colour muted and the brand durable. John Galliano’s waist-length coat and Barbara Bui’s gloriously sized stole will have you investing in future family heirlooms.
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talbot runhof
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Work Wear
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A great pair of trousers or perfectly fitted suit can outlive your next working contract if you shop wisely enough. Look to Gianfranco FerrĂŠ and John Richmond for some truly classic two-pieces in timeless colours, whilst Michael Kors and Nina Ricci showcase glamorous and enduring trouser styles.
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john richmond
mila schon
salvatore ferragamo
Nina ricci
gianfranco ferre
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nicole farhi
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Day Dresses
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The perfect dress is hard to give up; it makes dressing in the morning quick and can offer some comfort to a busy and demanding schedule. For keep-forever pieces check out CÊline’s autumn-coloured woollen number. Zac Posen and Elie Saab are less obvious but just as enduring choices with their seductive nature and lady-like appeal.
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zac posen
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carolina herrera
max mara
stella mccartney
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Leather
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The laws of nature make it impossible to deny leather a place in our ‘keep forever’ cupboards – its tough material makes it one of the longest standing fibres and its warm interior means it’s a must for our winters away. Don’t play into seasonal trends; instead, choose styles which make yearly appearances on the runways. Valentino’s princessstyle coat, Max Mara’s sheepskin trench and Loewe’s tan coloured T-shirt dress are staple examples.
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Out of the trenches It seems each season a trench is deemed appropriate outerwear no matter what time of year. Every style and fabric imaginable are on offer ensuring this wardrobe classic remains a firm style staple.
Classic Burberry trenchcoat
Marlene Dietrich 1941
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Images from top to bottom by Sunset Boulevard Corbis, Image by Hulton-Deustch Collection Corbis.
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his season there are countless options to make the iconic coat work for your wardrobe. A truly great trench will make you look dressed as soon as you put it on. Look to Ferragamo for a longer length perfect for work in alwayschic grey check. Outside of the office, Erdem’s gorgeous printed item is heavy enough to brace the wearer for winter weather but is such an unexpected and beautiful fabric, the trench becomes a completely unique entity. Retaining the classic shape and sensibilities of the classic, the multi-coloured print adds a feminine twist on winter outerwear. For a more traditional take on outerwear take inspiration from Hermes and this beautiful silk lined, rich tan trench. The colour is classic and synonymous with the season whilst being complimentary on most skin tones. If you’re looking for unadulterated luxury, try a full leather option as shown by Ralph Lauren. Complete with fur collar, this coat screams Upper East Side opulence. Ultimately the leather will only improve with wear, making this chic option a sensible buy for the future. There is something understatedly sexy about a woman wearing a trench coat. Beginning as a menswear item, the new incarnations of this season lend themselves to a ‘just thrown on’ look with an air of nonchalance as you belt your trench seductively around your waist. Classic and seasonless, add a fur stole during winter and wear open and languid during spring for a true investment piece for seasons to come.
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Oscar de la Renta in the 1970s
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There’s something about Oscar There is a designer whose history of fashion classics has had women running to him for over half a century. The name that makes us swoon as if were discovering dress-up for the very first time has always been, and will always be, well and truly Oscar de la Renta. By Kelly Baldwin
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hat’s exciting about life is learning. It’s that curious moment of trying to look for something and then thinking that you’ve found it. It’s about what tomorrow’s going to bring,’ says Oscar de la Renta. The designer – who was born in 1930’s Dominican Republic, spent his early adulthood in Spain and now resides in New York City – maintains a sophisticated tan and almost always wears his signature ensemble of a dark, strictly tailored suit and tie. His classic and respectable style along with his words of wisdom, epitomise the man who has attributed a certain unflawed spirit to the industry, leading the fashion choices of the world’s most inspired and celebrated women for years. Today, the girls on his catwalk adopt that same definitive and astute style that he himself represents. The autumn/winter runway took us on an exotic and worldly tour de force with magnificent patterns, lavish fabrics and powerful colours rife with heritage and culture. ‘The inspiration was a voyage on the Silk Road. There’s travel, movement and along the way, things are related but different,’ he explains. Karlie Kloss opened the show with aplomb, wearing a grey and chestnut fur hat and a classic winter coat embedded with red and black patterned squares, finished off in rich black velvet. In such opulent attire, the young model carried herself with an untouchable air of resplendence. Aristocratic elegance met bohemian bliss in glamorous looks from gold, ivory and black cropped jackets built from entire beds of sequins to vibrantly coloured scarves laden over monochrome Sabrina- shaped dresses. With sharp tailoring, a vibrant colour palette and just the right amount of sheen, a particular kind of woman was clearly on de la Renta’s mind whilst musing the collection. ‘I love the sensibility of the Middle Eastern woman. There is a sophistication in the culture that has existed for generations,’ he says, ‘they are incredibly elegant.’ And so forth the splendour continued: tulip shaped skirts worn underneath silver jacquard jackets, uplifted by bow collared blouses and fancy jewels at the neckline. Thick knits with fur finishing were effortlessly thrown over silk pleated dresses and knee-high cream boots. No colour
was compromised as gold, teal green, duck-egg blue and the richest of reds were entwined, mixed and played off against one another in a magnificent game of sumptuous allure. Loyal fans were left satisfied, grateful that during these times Oscar de la Renta could still be relied upon to offer nothing but uncompromised glamour. Oscar de la Renta’s runway shows take place in the affluent Park Avenue side of NYC, as opposed to the Lincoln Centre Tents where his peers show. The decision isn’t one of arrogance or snobbery (two traits far removed from de la Renta’s philanthropist character), it’s simply one of sense and setting. Would you buy a two-inch thick, floor-length mink coat and wear it into the Sahara? No, you’d wait and show it off in the snowy climate where it belongs. Oscar de la Renta’s designs are predominantly worn by the eloquent ladies who reside somewhere comparable to the Upper East Side, enjoy travelling and have an eye for the finer things in life. ‘Women have evolved in unbelievable ways since I started designing clothes. As a designer I try to understand that woman, understand her aspirations and her dreams,’ he continues, ‘I always say that elegance is a discipline of life.’ We must go back to the very beginning to truly understand how he perfected his artful approach to fashion design. Oscar de la Renta began his career after moving to Madrid and studying painting in the 1950s. He was and still is continually inspired by Spain and its music, art and culture are showcased in his collections – from the flamenco reds and yellows of last summer to the black lace and paradox of exotically coloured feathers the summer before that. His early years were spent assisting Cristobal Balenciaga and Antonio Castillo at the House of Lanvin. ‘Working for Cristobal Balenciaga was a tremendous learning experience for me. I observed how he constructed garments first hand. Balenciaga was a great designer because he was like an architect. He used to say “you don’t have to have a body, I will make one for you,’’’ de la Renta reminisces. Many years later in 1993 – after working at his own house for 30 years – de la Renta went to Balmain as their head couturier, becoming the first American to design for a French couture house. ‘In
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its prime, couture was a craft that was made for the very few and the very privileged. I wanted to bring back a sense of credibility,’ he says, ‘there was a very different scene in couture from the’60s to the’90s and I knew there needed to be a new relevance, something the modern woman could relate to and work with her lifestyle. With couture there are no limits. You are exercising your talent and fantasy without holding back, but there is still a consideration in mind.’ When he joined Balmain, the house had not sold a single couture dress in two years; now the success of the collections speaks for itself. Since setting up his own house in 1965, de la Renta has silently steered the course of fashion and he now sits strong as part of the ‘old guard.’ ‘I find it much more difficult to design the first 10 looks than the next 50. At the very end when I’m two or three days away from the show, it’s panic time because there’s never enough time to make all the clothes that I would like to make,’ he explains, ‘I fit every dress that is in each collection. The challenge is probably greater with each season.’ His dedication for the craft is universally respected, and where other houses of similar standing have had to hand over the reins to a younger generation – Piccioli and Chiuri at Valentino, Frida Giannini at Gucci and Stefano Pilati at YSL– de la Renta has remained knee deep in the designs of his house, working each day as if it’s his first. That’s not to say he doesn’t strongly support and acknowledge the creativity and significance of the younger generation. In fact, his son Moises de la Renta is a designer himself and many young names have worked under de la Renta senior, including Adam Lippes, the youngest ever Creative Director appointed at Oscar de la Renta. As a young man, Oscar de la Renta helped American fashion establish its place. He redefined contemporary ready-to-wear while upholding classic sensibilities and including the fancies of couture – something that had never been seen before. Many iconic women from first ladies to socialites flocked to the designer for opulent dresses and two-piece skirt suits that set their standing as society’s most sophisticated set. The grandeur only before discovered via couture gowns in ballrooms suddenly became available in daywear purchased in boutiques. ‘I have a realisation that luxury and sophisticated dressing is not about buying expensive clothes, it is about living in a way where you appreciate things,’ explains the designer. His first wife Editor-in-Chief of French Vogue, Francoise de la Renta, along with Jacqueline Onassis, Nancy Reagan and Elizabeth Arden (who famously had de la Renta design her entire clothes line) were all ardent fans. Through their close relationship with the designer, a timeless and powerful aesthetic was shaped. The spirit and style of these icons still lives on through de la Renta’s collections, which continually capture both the elegance of the past and the excitement of the present. ‘I see women today in control of their destinies. They want to be themselves,’ says the designer, ‘she has a desire to be elegant and she has a very busy life.’
Today the Oscar wearer transcends from the likes of Natalie Portman and Anne Hathaway on the red carpet, Hillary Clinton and Michelle Obama in the White House and any woman on the go from the office to the school-run who still fully appreciates the art of elegance, glamour and taking pride in her attire. Last November the fashion-blogs were abuzz when American singer Nicki Minaj (an unlikely candidate for an Oscar gown) wore a dress from the spring/summer 2011 collection to the American Music Awards. A young, eccentric pop star taking a beautiful, timeless de la Renta dress for a spin, and looking unexpectedly astonishing in it? That’s the magic of Oscar. The designer has a unique and somewhat mystic way of transforming any woman – whatever her habitual style – into a glorious goddess. ‘To see a celebrity or icon wearing a dress I have created, it is the highest compliment,’ comments the designer. This summer is set to be one of a million opportunities with a starlight collection that encompasses traditional Oscar with a wonderful flair of fallen refinement. The colour palette packs a huge punch in vibrant yellows, greens and reds, signalling that the Oscar woman is ready to move out of her shell a little. Candidly placed ruffles and ruches created mega peplums and fabulous parachute shaped skirts, beautifully crafted and exquisitely executed. ‘I think my Spanish heritage has a tremendous influence on my designs. I come from a place where a sense of life and colour is very important. I like things to be beautiful and exceptional, full of colour and vibrant. I try to design clothes that make a woman feel bold,’ he said. Embellished crochet boho tops are thrown over constructed bodices creating a dishevelled and nonchalant look. In the next passing, the Oscar we have come to expect was showcased with flowing fish tails, princess dresses and two-piece suits made from a-line skirts and tweed blazers. Each piece was crafted with angelic and sweet twists, including ruffles at the waist, bows at the necks and falling petals covering entire outfits. ‘The inspiration behind spring 2012 was the work of preRaphaelite art from the 1840s,’ said the designer. The preRaphaelite inspiration is beautifully and enchantingly characterised in an enigmatic collection that places paradoxes of pure white lace next to neon yellow shiny taffeta finished off with a mass of frizzy yet delicately placed hair on each of the stunning models’ heads. The overriding characteristic that put each woman in the same class was the supreme and regal air through which the outfit empowered her to carry herself. The ambience in the room – rich, opulent and commanding – was a distinct setting which takes place only four times a year when Oscar de la Renta shows his new creations. Outside the show schedule, that same ambience and appeal is created each time a woman steps outside her house dressed in her most cherished artisan’s work. How do you recognise an Oscar de la Renta? ‘By the woman who wears it,’ declares the designer.
“I come from a place where a sense of life and colour is very important. I like things to be beautiful and exceptional, full of colour and vibrant. I try to design clothes that make a woman feel bold.”
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Fashion
Cruise into the New Season Once upon a fashion time, socialites and style setters packed their suitcases for a February getaway. With everywhere to visit and nothing to wear, their designer friends ran to the rescue and cruise collections were crafted. Of course, the MOJEH reader is well accustomed to her mid-season break and this year you can look to a few key designers like Stella McCartney, Moschino and Chanel to set the tone for your holiday wardrobe. Whether you’re dipping your feet into Caribbean waters, exploring the streets of Brazil, attending balls in Monaco or residing in another emirate for a welcomed rest, this season’s cruise was built for you.
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No matter where your yacht takes you, what’s the one chic colour palette that you should always turn to? Nauticals of course, and YSL, McCartney and Matthew Williamson are captaining the waters this season with cute playsuits, silk shorts and billowing blouses. Dock for the day and frolic around in LV’s one-piece, Oscar’s candy striped number and YSL’s nautical dresses. Set the styling sail high!
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The best way to shop for next summer’s collections is by hitting a fashion capital for your break. Do it in style with Gucci’s blend of minimal shapes in maximum colour voltage, or try their preppy blazer and white shirt teamed with a platinum gold skirt. The beauty of a city break is that many styles go, even Moschino’s cute and girly cashmere sweater and tulle cream skirt. Walking the streets of Paris, London and New York should be no different than walking the runway.
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Sarah Burton at McQueen was sand inspired for cruise when she created a glorious gown fit for a desert princess in burnt browns and golden floral embellishments. Marni and Oscar de la Renta, on the other hand, were hit by the explorer bug in utilitarian inspired outfits with plenty of structure in sandy hues. Ever the glittering goddess maker, Matthew Williamson is the go-to guy for sensual dresses in skin-smoothing fabrics with glistening delights.
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The close of one season and the opening of the next often calls for a great party opportunity as plenty of balls, weddings and cocktail parties are added to the agenda. Look to the cruise collections for a step towards brights, glams and florals and a step away from the refined and darker styles of winter. Chanel offers superb hints of spring with silks, creams and light dustings of flowers, whilst Versace and Oscar encourage us to show our shoulders and flash those toned legs.
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Valentine
Heart to Heart
With Valentine’s Day nearly upon us we’ve done the hard work for you and found everything you need to make this February 14th spectacular. From our envy-inducing wish list to the most beautiful outfits for you and your other half, our Valentine’s Special has got you covered to plan the most perfect weekend of romance in 2012.
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Red may be predictable for Valentine’s, however it continues to be stylish and sultry for the holiday and no other colour feels quite as right on that special day. Use your accessories and chosen styles to make it your own – we suggest an injection of print for a pumped up vibe and Louboutin, Valentino and Nicholas Kirkwood all offer great shoes and bags. Naeem Khan’s dress is playful and fun whilst Marc Jacobs’s lace number shows more rigour and definition. Throw some tweed by Lanvin on top to see you through the night. 4
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1. naeem khan | 2. ysl | 3. chanel | 4. ysl | 5. celine | 6. valentino | 7. Marc jacobs @ mytheresa.com | 8. jason wu @ net-a-porter.com
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With so much stylish menswear on offer, there’s no excuse for your guy not to be dressed to impress for your Valentine’s night out this February. Canali’s sharp tailored suit in moss grey has the perfect desire factor and earns huge trend points. Lanvin’s gold and black diamond cufflinks sit handsomely against Louis Vuitton’s black leather men’s clutch bag and there are plenty of shoes to choose from at Gucci like these black patent numbers. 4
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Spend your Valentine’s break in early summer style and be steps ahead of the rest with these chosen designs. Matthew Williamson continually uses prints exceptionally and this sea blue kaftan featuring water lilies is artistic and offers a sense of freedom. Don’t be afraid to carelessly stack colourful bangles and add costume jewellery for added fun. Stick to sandals for day – Dior’s blue leather pair are comfortable and on trend – and open-toe heels for night such as Jimmy Choo’s metallic beaded number. Use the occasion to be fun, free and frivolous with your fashion.
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1. Matthew williamson | 2. dior | 3. Dannijo | 4. pomellato | 5. louis vuitton | 6. dior | 7. anndra neen | 8. Temperley @ net-a-porter.com
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Dries Van Noten knows how to make a man look cool, calm and collected through his on-trend outfit perfect for a laid-back weekend in the fresh spring air. A crisp cream T-shirt is a good investment that will be carried forward into next season and the same can be said for Brioni’s white shirt. Travel in style with Louis Vuitton’s perfectly clean leather weekend bag, filled with this season’s best male products from Clinique and Kiehl’s. Accessorising is just as important for men as it is for women, so try Brioni’s blue knit day scarf, Le Tom’s beige hat and some Salvatore Ferragamo shades.
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Girly Valentine’s Wish List The holiday should be sweet and sentimental as opposed to big and flashy, so find a subtle way to let your special one know exactly what you’re wishing for to make your Valentine’s complete. Katie Hillier’s gold and white gold diamond encrusted ring is the perfect gift, whilst Bulgari’s watch will always remind you of that special day. Of course every girl needs a beautiful pair of Manolo’s and there’s no better time to ask. Top it all off with a pretty-in-pink kiss from Chantecaille and your day is complete!
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chaumet | 16. dior | 17. cartier | 18. Dolce&Gabbana, Ultra Shine Lip gloss in Secret | 19. Guerlain, Idylle Eau Sublime | 20. bulgari | 21. fendi
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Be My Valentine Men are traditionally not the easiest to buy gifts for since they never want as much as women do and they tend to already have everything they need. So keep it cute and quirky this February 14th with memento gift ideas like Dunhill’s silver money wallet, Zikmu’s parrot red speakers and Truefitt & Hill’s grooming kit. Alternatively, set him up with a lifestyle gift like a membership to the Dubai Creek Golf and Yacht Club. 10
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1. Ralph Lauren Black Label @ mrporter.com | 2. Dolce&Gabbana @ matchesfashion.com | 3. John Lobb | 4. Sloane Stationery, A Gentleman’s Notes | 5. Dewitt | 6. Dunhill | 7. Eton | 8. Zikmu, Red parrot speakers | 9. Acqua Di Parma Colonia Essenza | 10. Dubai Creek Golf and Yacht Club
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Valentine
Valentine's Break Spend your Valentine’s Break in an Oasis of Indulgence at the Banyan Tree.
‘Banyan tree is a beyond perfect destination for the adventurous and fun-loving couple any time of the year.’
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he sun has just set behind the sand dunes, leaving behind vivid crimson skies and a gentle evening breeze. Here in Ras Al Khaimah, which lies between the Arabian Gulf and the Hajjar mountains, every sunset is magical, ephemeral yet eternal. Amid the desert sand, evergreen ghaf trees, and hypnotic tranquillity, it is easy to forget that Ras Al Khaimah is less than an hour’s drive from the ever-bustling Dubai. Banyan Tree Al Wadi presents guests a unique dual experience: A luxury desert resort set in a nature reserve with 101 luxurious pool villas, complemented with a Beach Club 20 minutes drive away with 32 beach-fronting pool villas. Banyan tree is a beyond perfect destination for the adventurous and fun-loving couple any time of the year, but make it your sanctuary this Valentine’s weekend and discover the tranquillity to be found in the desert. Activities include horse-riding, water-sports and desert safaris, alternatively you can relax with your loved one in one of the six spa pavilions at the beach resort. The Rainforest is a favourite amongst guests; imagine an experiential journey of stirring tropical showers, gushing water jets and a relaxing hammam session. From authentic arabic to thai cuisine there are number of splendid restaurants offering the perfect settings to spend your evenings together. If you choose to extend your Valentines weekend, we strongly suggest destination dining where – set atop vast sand dunes – you’re offered a night of desert dining under the vast Arabian sky. Whatever your needs this Valentine’s holiday, Banyan Tree holds everything your heart desires.
Banyan Tree Al Wadi Al Mazraa, P.O.Box 35288, Ras Al Khaimah, United Arab Emirates T: +971 7 206 7777, F: +971 7 243 5000 E: alwadi@banyantree.com, W: www.banyantree.com
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SHE: Top and pants, Giorgio Armani | Bracelet, Chanel Joaillerie | HE: Shirt, Dior | 116 Trousers, Brioni | Belt, Gucci
JE TAIME, MOI NON PLUS Photographed by RaphaĂŤl Delorme & Thierno Sy Styled by Ilona Glapa
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SHE: Top and Shorts, Emilio Pucci | Bolero, Sonia Rykiel | Ring, Chanel Joaillerie | HE: Tuxedo, Arnys Paris
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119 Total look, Givenchy | Bracelet, Cartier
Top and skirt, YSL | Bracelet, Chanel Joaillerie | Ring, Cartier
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Jacket and skirt, Elie Saab | Bra, Cadolle | Earrings, Chanel Joaillerie | Bracelet and ring, Boucheron
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Dress, Gucci | Bracelet, Patrick Moulin
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Top and pants, Cacharel | Bracelets, Chanel Joaillerie | Bolero, Sonia Rykiel | Shoes, Jean-Michel Cazabat
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Body, Prada | Bolero, Gucci | Necklace and ring, Chanel Joaillerie | Bracelet, Patrick Moulin
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Shirt, Dsquared2 | Trousers, Alexis Mabille
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SHE Dress, Lanvin | Bracelet and ring, Boucheron HE Suit jacket and shirt, Smalto
SHE Tuxedo and top, Valentino | Necklace, bracelet and ring, Chanel Joaillerie | Shoes, Christian Louboutin HE Shirt, Alexis Mabille | Trousers, Paul Smith | Belt, Gucci | Gloves, Smalto | Shoes, Zilli
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Sweater, Lanvin
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Suit jacket, Dsquared2 | Shirt, Giorgio Armani
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Models: Alek Alexeyeva, Modelwerk and Laurent Meri, Bananas Makeup: Megumi Itano, CallistĂŠ Hair: Tomoko Sato Production: Louis Agency
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THE ANGEL OF CIRCEO Photographed by FEDERICO DE ANGELIS Styled by DONATELLA MUSCO
White coat, Versace | Silk shirt, Chloe | Leather shoes, Junko Shimada
Grey coat, Maison Martin Margiela | White dress, Maison Rabih Kayrouz
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SIilk dress, Paule Ka | Rose gold bracelet, Maison Martin Margiela
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Fur scarf, Christian Dior
Trench coat, Burberry Prorsum
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Dress shirt, Azzedine Alaia | Silk pajama bottoms, Eres | Gold necklace and ring, Maison Martin Margiela
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Model: Inguna Butane, Oui Management | Hair and makeup: Vincenzo Cavicchi | Manicurist: Lucia CesĂšaldi | Stylist assistant: Elisa Benigni | Photographer assistant: Matteo Miani | Special thanks to: Andrea Bazuro at ProprietĂ Scalfatit
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Unparalleled Concierge Service. louisfourteen.com
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A BOHEMIAN RHAPSODY
Photographed by FEDERICO DE ANGELIS Styled by DONATELLA MUSCO
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Silk chiffon dress, Christian Dior | Floral k-way, Red Valentino
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White silk dress, Valentino 145
Fringed t-shirt, Maison Martin Margiela | Orange culotte, Paule Ka | White leather bracelet, Delfina Delettrez
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Multicoloured dress, Missoni | White leather bracelet, Delfina Delettrez
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Silk chiffon and lace gown, Elie Saab
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Fringed silk shirt, Phillip Lim | Blue skirt, Azzedine Alaia 149
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Silk pleated dress, Emanuel Ungaro Model: Anna-Maria Nemetz, Oui Management | Stylist assistant: Elisa Benigni Photographer’s assistant: Matteo Miani | Hair and makeup: Vincenzo Cavicchi | Production: Louis Agency 151
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here is a very emotional connection between women and their jewellery. Experts say it’s not the wearer that picks the jewels but the jewels that pick the wearer. Playing a starring role in new customers’ lives, Shaun Leane, the London-based jeweller, is one who creates for this deep meaningful connection between a woman and her jewels. Through his two newest collections, the former jewellery designer of choice for Alexander McQueen calls to every woman’s passion for beautiful pieces that are sure to become antiques of the future. The Tribal Deco Collection plays on the monochromatic palette synonymous with Art Deco. The beautiful large cocktail ring with a cabochon hematite and quartz at the centre has unique deco style green tsavorite shoulders. To accompany this stunning ring, look to a stream of cultured pearls jewelled with a black and white diamond-sculpted double tusk to form a lariat style necklace. For colour, the Aurora collection takes inspiration from the aurora borealis. Vibrant shades of pink gemstones merge together in a statement-interlocking ring and drop earrings – perfect for reigniting your passion for fine jewellery.
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Cherish forever Anya Hindmarch
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nya Hindmarch’s Bespoke collection is helping us rediscover gifts to be cherished for years to come. Anya started this collection as a response to the throwaway IT bags and fast fashions of seasons past. Each piece comes with a personalised design that you’ll love for a lifetime. Journals come personalised with a name or date (perfect for soon-to-be brides), and the collection of women’s purses and handbags are inscribed with the customer’s name as opposed to that of the designer. A personalised message makes the gift extra special for those giving or receiving it. The clutches in the collection are ingrained on the clasp, something Anya had created for previous Oscar winners. Monograms and dates can be sewn into the soft fabric bags as once favoured by Princess Diana. The collection includes frames, photo albums and bespoke memory boxes – all of which can be customised with a special message. Each piece is beautifully made and coupled with the special sentiment that is sure to be at the forefront of everyone’s minds for that next special occasion just around the corner.
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in the garden of eden bulgari
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he new pochettes from the Mediterranean Eden collection marry the impossible luxury of satin with the iconic Bulgari coins. The brand started setting coins into their necklaces in the early ’60s and so continues to be a house trend today. The small and perfectly formed clutches from the new collection feature pastel and jewel tones fit for any outfit change. Inspired by the brand’s Greek-Roman origins, Bulgari took its rich heritage and distinctive Mediterranean creativity and melded it together for this unique collection. The gleaming alloy of the coins harks back to Alexander the Great and times of imperial luxury and status. The juxtaposition of craftsmanship and luxury in the coin setting and satin finish continue Bulgari’s successful mix of contrasts in producing a beautiful and unique piece.
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ring is to some the most significant piece of jewellery one can buy. The importance and reverence placed on a single band of metal can seem overwhelming, and as such it is imperative to choose something timeless and special. Throughout history, honey bees have signified immortality, and this season Chaumet takes that concept one step further with its Bee My Love ring collection. Incorporating three different gold colours, one unique honeycomb ring is given nine different variations so the wearer can create a completely unique piece. Available both with and without diamonds, there are five million combinations to choose from. Inspired by the perfectly formed honeycomb shape, these fun stackable rings look as good on their own as they do together. Bees have been a source of inspiration for the 231-year-old Parisian jewellery brand since the company’s inception. Chaumet was the official supplier of jewellery for NapolÊon and used the bee as the imperial symbol of immortality and undisputed power. The bee continues its legacy today with its honeycomb as a symbol of those strong foundations needed in a long lasting relationship.
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Lauren’s tribute to the Middle East Ralph Lauren
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alph Lauren is a man who knows luxury. Statistically the 173rd richest person in the world, this New York-born American designer has a penchant for the finer things in life. Not surprisingly, Lauren has an affinity for the Middle Eastern customer who shares his inclanation for luxurious taste. This season Lauren has created a limited edition of his iconic Ricky Bag specifically for the Middle Eastern woman. Crafted from the finest black crocodile leather and encrusted with Swarovski crystals, it is exclusively available in the Ralph Lauren boutique in Dubai Mall. It is the only bag in the history of Ralph Lauren to bear a proprietor plaque engraved with ‘Dubai’ instead of the usual ‘New York,’ a special individual touch for the discerning regional shopper. Not available anywhere else in the world, this special edition of the Ricky Bag is even more exclusive as only six numbered pieces were made for sale.
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here’s nothing more depressing than waiting for your luggage at the airport and seeing case after case of the same black bag rotating slowly on the baggage wheel. We’ve had coloured belts and novelty baggage tags to brighten up our dull luggage, but for the next level of stylish travel bags there’s a new alternative. The Luxury Travel line from Simonetta Ravizza offers a new deluxe element to luggage. The line includes beauty trolleys and suitcases made from a combination of mink or Persian kid. Available in three sizes, each piece includes over 60 hours of handmade craftsmanship. Imagine the envy-inducing glances in the departure lounge as you tote your black fur-trimmed case into the first class line. These limited edition pieces can be customised to the shopper’s specifications and are created in small quantities making them ultra exclusive. After decades of plain black cases, these fur-trimmed beauties are a fabulous way to add some more style when flying the friendly skies.
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Cruising into the New Season louis vuitton
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ypically, the cruise collection is a demi-season for jet setters who keep themselves busy after having finished their winter buying by working on their holiday wardrobe. Cruise collections offer a great opportunity to get a range of colourful and exotic pieces that are not available all year round. They are also a great excuse to invest in your favourite designer. This season Marc Jacobs called upon his muse Sofia Coppola to collaborate with and inspire the Louis Vuitton Cruise Collection. Working closely with Julie de Libran, the Vuitton studio design director, the two women created a collection heavily influenced by young Parisian girls and ’60s and ’70s cinema in Paris. An air of naivety and wistfulness belies the shoe collection with standouts being the sky-high exotic skin wedge and penny loafer. The high wedges symbolise youth, fun and a desire to be taken seriously. The exotic skin finish in black and red along with the heavily studded wedge are dramatic statements which add a quirky, devil-may-care nonchalance to any look. The penny loafer is studded along its sole to add an embellished edge to this mannish shoe and is sure to be a staple in your wardrobe wherever your boat docks.
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Dreaming of Spring We’re not the only ones dreaming of fresh spring air. These fanciful designers have also realised what a flash of pink, a subtle flower print and a trace of renewed cream and white can do for our wardrobes, enhancing our right and ready outlook for next season. Test Proenza Schouler’s bag for a seasonal uplift, stay wrapped up in Erdem’s colourful silk scarf and enhance your waist with Versace’s gold belt, which perfectly matches the metallic of winter with the vibrant colours of spring.
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1. Miu Miu | 2. Christian Louboutin | 3. Repetto | 4. Lanvin @ net-a-porter.com | 5. Erdem @ mytheresa.com | 6. Marni | 7. YSL | 8. Etro @ mytheresa.com | 9. Proenza Schouler @Boutique1.com | 10. Versace @ net-a-porter.com
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Where the Wild Things are Embrace this season’s fashion favourite, and use animal print to either add a touch of feline or go for full blown fierce behaviour. Dominique Lucas’s gold elephant necklace and Oscar de la Renta’s red and green beetle bug brooch are simple yet distinctive add-ons to any outfit. Alternatively, invest in Giambattista Valli’s over-the-knee leopard boots, teamed with Ann Demeulemeester’s feathered belt and finished off with YSL’s printed sunnies. You could of course just look to Roberto Cavalli – a man who never hides his love for the animal kingdom – for head-to-toe print.
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1. Roberto Cavalli | 2. Dominique Lucas @ Luisaviaroma.com | 3. Marc by Marc Jacobs | 4. Isabel Marant @mytheresa.com | 5. Oscar de la Renta | 6. Giambattista Valli @ mytheresa.com | 7. Salvatore Ferragamo | 8. Dolce&Gabbana | 9. Ann Demeulemeester @ Luisaviaroma.com | 10. YSL
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The Next Level Platforms instantly lengthen and tone our legs and subsequently hold pride of place in our shoe cupboards. This season a dazzling array of colours and styles are on offer and most, namely Jimmy Choo’s black classics, will see you out of one season and straight into the next. Christian Louboutin’s midnight blue pair with gold trimming are the perfect office attire, as are Brian Atwood’s mustard yellow classics. Rupert Sanderson’s stylish black patent and golden weaved versions are also an evening must have.
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1. Burberry | 2. Nicholas Kirkwood @ mytheresa.com | 3. Gucci | 4. Christian Louboutin | 5. Charlotte Olympia | 6. Alaia at Saks Fifth Avenue | 7. Jimmy Choo | 8. Brian Atwood @ mytheresa.com | 9. Rupert Sanderson @Boutique1.com
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We Wanna be Giovanna
Uber stylist and industry favourite Giovanna Battaglia is a definite authority on accessories. Moving from Milan to New York last year to freelance, former model Battaglia is an international street style icon and MOJEH favourite. Never shy about flashing some skin, Giovanna has perfected the art of seductive dressing, always armed with a host of lust worthy accessories. Famed for her love of bracelets, it is very rare to see this Milanese native without a wrist full of lovelies.
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These shoes were made for walking
Sometimes it can be tiresome trying to keep up with runway trends, especially when it comes to shoes. Every designer has their own variations of the must-haves per season and before you know it, you have stacks of unopened boxes in your wardrobe and a Birkin bag full of shopper’s remorse. Real life is a better indicator of functional style than a runway, which is why we’ve charted the top shoe trends seen on some familiar faces that everyone should have in her wardrobe. Take notes and expand your shoe collection wisely.
Sneaky sneakers
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Isabel Marant
If the thought of anything less than two inches on your feet leaves you cold, fear not. The queen of Parisian chic Isabel Marant has created the Bekket Sneaker, a huge winter trend for girls on the go. With a two-inch hidden wedge for a slice of height, these uber cool kicks are the perfect go-between when running around town.
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Shoe boot spectacular Height, protection, style – the shoe boot may be the answer to your shoe prayers this season. As gorgeous with bare legs as they are with skinny jeans, shoe boots are the most versatile pair you’re likely to buy. A darker colour will inevitably get more wear, but look for individual touches like laces, buttons and hardware to stand out from the crowd. This navy military-inspired pair from Louboutin are winners all year round.
Cute cut outs
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Nicholas Kirkwood
While the winter winds may still be howling, don’t hide your pedicure away all season. Brave the chill and gain major style points with a gorgeously decorative pair of cut out booties. Jessica Stam teams hers with neutral leggings and a cosy sweater. Her gorgeous studded Alaia pair instantly lift her casual look to model- off-duty chic. Nicholas Kirkwood’s lace-up pair are equally stunning.
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Hues and height
Chiara Ferragni
Don’t be pigeonholed by dark and dreary winter colours all season. A splash of colour on your feet will keep you smiling whatever the weather. Try opposite tones like these blue pumps with orange jeans for a fashionable lesson in clashing. Channel some Italian flair like blogger Chiara Ferragni and team purple tights with pink and purple heels. Che bella!
Get on your bike
Bess
Biker boots have been undergoing a quiet reinvention, as ’90s grunge has slowly been creeping back onto the fashion radar. A favourite of editors and photographers, they were spotted everywhere at fashion week adding a devil-may-care edge to any outfit. Bess have the coolest selection around in vintage distressed leather with gold pyramid studs. Take a leaf out of Mary Kate Olsen and Megan Fox’s book and rock some biker boots all winter long.
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Knee-high
Giovanna Battaglia
Elegant, timeless and wonderfully individual kneehigh boots are a staple for autumn/winter. Express your own personal style with a pair you’ll love to wear. Super stylist Giovanna Battaglia wears her green pair complete with white piping and tassels with contrasting tights for a colourful take on accessorising. Choose a pair you’ll love to wear under dresses, with jeans tucked in or with wooly tights.
LBP: the little black pump
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Alexa Chung
Just like its dress counterpart, the little black pump is a wardrobe staple sure to see you through any occasion regardless of the weather. A classic roundtoe style seen here on Brit girl Alexa Chung looks adorable with a full skirt and cosy sweater. For a wilder take on the LBP, look to YSL whose Mohawk Palais pumps are a fuzzy alternative to basic black.
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Exotic Hues If you make just one more big investment this season, we suggest you go for a bag in an exotic skin. They’re durable, stylish and will remain a timeless classic for seasons to come. Choose a subtle shade like Dior’s burgundy box handbag or Salvatore Ferragamo’s black clutch. Lana Marks has found a unique way to carry snakeskin and we personally love the subtle hues of pink, perfectly complimenting the turquoise strap. On the other hand, Mulberry’s classic Bayswater revolutionised with Ostrich skin in varying shades of purple is a fun addition to any woman’s wardrobe.
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1. Chloe | 2. Mulberry @Boutique1.com | 3. Maison du Posh | 4. Salvatore Ferragamo | 5. Ralph Lauren @ net-a-porter.com | 6. Lana Marks | 7. Zagliani | 8. Dior | 9. Celine
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Sartorial Showers Even if you’re residing in the desert for January and February early spring showers are a given, so ensure your sartorial taste isn’t too affected and invest in these cool and quirky options from the style setters. Fulton’s umbrella keeps you dry under the London skyline, whilst Alexander McQueen’s red one leaves all eyes on you. Christopher Kane’s mix of berry reds awash in a tie-dye style clutch will take you from evening to night, and Victoria Beckham’s black leather oversized bag allows enough room to hold everything in preparation for any forecasted rain. For really fashionable protection, the Marc Jacobs collection will leave you well and truly ready for those dark clouds.
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1. Marc Jacobs | 2. Alexander McQueen @ net-a-porter.com | 3. Victoria Beckham | 4. Maison Michel | 5. YSL | 6. Fulton | 7. Louis Vuitton | 8. Christopher Kane @ mytheresa.com | 9. Acne @ mytheresa.com | 10. Dior | 11. Gucci
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Born with a Silver Spoon Pay attention to the details this month, and allow the runway’s obsession with silver and shine to make its way into your own jewellery and bag collections. Pianegonda’s silver and pearl set offers a gentle and classic tone to perfectlymanicured hands, whilst Marc by Marc Jacobs’s dazzling ring is the type of bling no woman can say no to. Whether your outfit choice is all black or shows flashes of colour, a clutch bag from any one of these designers is a delightful addition. A flash of silver never hurt anyone!
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1. Gianfranco Ferre | 2. Dior | 3. Bottega Veneta @ matchesfashion.com | 4. Marc by Marc Jacobs | 5. Kotur | 6. Alexander McQueen | 7 & 8. Pianegonda | 9. Rodo | 10. Oscar de la Renta
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A Life in Jewels
In many ways, diamonds are like the precious stepping stones of life. Much more than a girl’s best friend, the pieces of fine jewellery that adorn every woman’s jewellery box tell the story of her life so far and that of her family. So, what does your bling biography say about you? By Gillian Brett
Legacy collection rings in tanzanite, Tiffany & CO.
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Wildflowers diamond statement ring, De Beers
Oeuf Cadeau egg pendant, Faberge
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iving a piece of fine jewellery to a relative or loved one to mark a special occasion has been a ritual for years. Engagements, births, anniversaries and milestone birthdays can all be charted by the enduring diamonds that twinkle when worn or within the safekeeping of our jewellery boxes. The purity, rarity and exceptional brilliance of diamonds have made them the most precious stones in the world and the absolute symbol of eternal love. Their name comes from the Greek ‘adamas,’ meaning invincible, in reference to their extreme durability. Nowadays, the sentiment behind a diamond remains true, and with more jewellery options on the market to suit a myriad of tastes and styles, diamond gifting has become an even more widely embraced practice. ‘What we have seen over time is that the number of occasions that people are marking with diamond jewellery is increasing,’ reveals Marina Cid, the Global PR Manager for De Beers fine jewellery. ‘Whilst the solitaire diamond ring is synonymous with engagements, people are looking to mark further moments in their lives like the birth of a child or a special anniversary.’ Cid also notes how individuals are celebrating personal achievements – such as a promotion or particular triumph in the workplace – by self-gifting a piece of fine jewellery. Where once a designer handbag or pair of shoes was chosen to honour such accomplishments, nowadays we want something more perpetual to mark the unforgettable moments in our lives. Other changes to this tradition include the comprehensive reasons behind the piece of jewellery that is chosen. With so many options available, ensuring the gift caters to the wearer’s individual tastes is far easier. Furthermore, jewellers have noticed an increase in requests for custom-designed pieces. ‘People are becoming a lot more adventurous with bespoke designs,’ discloses Rebecca Hawkins, head jewellery designer for Boodles. Hawkins should know as she was once commissioned to make the world’s most expensive teabag, which she achieved by encrusting it with 280 diamonds. ‘A lot of people have come to me recently with stones from family heirlooms which they’d like incorporated into a new design.’ While the prospect of carrying on a timeless family jewel is a touching sentiment, Marina Cid is more excited by the prospect of creating your very own precious bequest. ‘Once the client selects their perfect diamond, the journey of individual creativity begins. From there, the creation of the piece becomes an heirloom that can pass from generation to generation.’ With De Beers bespoke designs starting from US$50,000 these pieces are sure to become a priceless inheritance. As well as individual preferences, global fashion trends also affect our choice in fine jewels – though in more subtle ways. ‘Because fine jewellery is an investment – intended to be worn spanning years rather than seasons – it doesn’t follow obvious editorial-led trends,’ explains international gemologist Natasha Sherling. ‘However, easily translated styles such as the fashionable use of particular
Allegra 3-row bracelet in 18ct yellow gold, Colour Collection, Bulgari
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Sugar stack rings, Paloma Picasso for Tiffany & CO.
Vintage brilliant cut diamond engagement ring, Boodles
Raindance platinum and diamond ring, Boodles
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materials, is something that influences the world of fine pieces. For example, where once platinum or white gold was the metal of choice, now more customers are embracing yellow gold as a direct result of its prominence on runways and in costume pieces.’ Though no less influential than trends in fashion, the key looks in jewellery design rely solely on brilliantly coloured stones or deceptively complicated settings to do the talking, and recent collections have presented ever more flamboyant creations from the haute joaillerie houses. In addition to this, the new mood for craftsmanship has led to a renewed interest in the ancient art of enamelling, and the revived 1950’s silhouette on the catwalk is perfectly enhanced by statement jewels and elegant timepieces. While tastes and trends should be taken into account, time-honoured traditions must also be considered when choosing the perfect gift. The birth of a child, for example, is habitually marked with a pendant accented with a pink or blue stone. Nowadays, something far more personalised and meaningful is appropriate. The Pandora LovePods Collection holds a beautiful sentiment, as it is inspired by nature’s delicate plant structures and seed pods evoking the notion that flowers on the verge of blooming hold a promise of beauty. Gifting an expectant or new mother with a ring from this collection is a poignant representation of her maternity. If she has any more children, a ring from the same collection can be worn stacked with the first ring to signify her growing brood. Another long-established convention is fortifying a couple’s engagement with a diamond ring. Cupid’s arrow is said to be tipped with diamonds and so has remained the symbol of love’s unity. As the diamond engagement ring is so ubiquitous, yours needs to be unique. The De Beers Adonis Rose Collection was inspired by the original love story of Aphrodite and her Adonis. The rose and intricately entwined leaves of this collection are symbolic of deep devotion. The Adonis Rose solitaire ring is a platinum band with bezel-set marquise diamonds, pavé round brilliants and a claw-set centre solitaire that looks like a sparkling rosebud. With customisable colour and clarity options, this is a ring that easily becomes inimitable. Vintage style rings with coloured stones in halo or target settings have become hugely popular (think Kate Middleton’s royal blue and Carrie Underwood’s canary yellow). The Boodles Vintage engagement ring is the perfect example of timeless elegance. To evoke the glamour of the Edwardian period, the Tiffany & Co. Legacy Collection ring in tanzanite is a modern classic. The importance of fine jewellery doesn’t end after the engagement. Long gone are the years when wedding milestones were marked by traditional gifts. After 10 years together, tin is the gift of choice according to marriage conventions, yet Natasha Sherling reveals that modern couples believe a decade of dedication requires a more fitting tribute. ‘I am currently crafting a ring for a 10-year anniversary gift and the couple want it to feature 10 diamonds of varying sizes
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In Adonis Rose solitare ring, De Beers LovePods ring selection, Pandora
Floral earrings in 18ct yellow gold, Meditteranean Eden Collection, Bulgari
4897R rose gold Calatrava watch, Patek Phillipe
set intermittently around multiple bands to represent each year of marriage. They want two of the diamonds to be pink to represent their two daughters. It’s sweet to have that kind of sentiment in such a personal piece.’ Another apt, yet unusual accolade of adoration is the recently launched Fabergé Egg pendants. Fabergé is synonymous with extraordinary luxury, exquisite craftsmanship, romantic heritage and an unbridled pursuit of beauty. For those not familiar with the Fabergé Egg history, the idea of giving an ornate egg dates back to 1885 when Russian Tsar Alexander III commissioned designer Peter Carl Fabergé to create a bejewelled Easter Egg with an ornate interior including a miniature multicoloured hen for his wife on their 20th wedding anniversary. His wife was so delighted with the elaborate and unusual gift that Fabergé was commissioned to make a new egg every year with the only requirement being that each one hold a new surprise inside. Now, Fabergé have introduced their newest amorous venture with the pendant collection called Les Favorites de Fabergé. Featuring a repertoire of 60 designs with choices varying from rubies to sapphires and finishes including matte and blackened gold, the pendants are as exotic as they sound and the perfect souvenir of everlasting love. When it comes to milestone birthdays, the age and lifestyle of the recipient must be taken into account along with their personal style. ‘Colour plays a big role in 18th birthday gifts,’ advises Sherling. ‘Youth should be embraced with a vibrant gift.’ The floral earrings from the Bulgari Mediterranean Eden Collection are the perfect representation of youth, evolution and vitality. The Bulgari Colour Collection’s three-row bracelet featuring a kaleidoscope of coloured gems and Akoya cultured pearls or the Tiffany Sugar Stack rings by Paloma Picasso are also an ideal gift for carefree teens. For a 21st birthday, a fine timepiece is a wonderful gift as it is a little more mature and marks the wearer’s significant first steps into adulthood. The Patek Philippe Calatrava watch is a classic expression of feminine elegance. It features a refined rose gold case and a delicately guillochéd and lacquered dial in a luxurious cream hue. Framed by a diamond-set bezel, it is worn with an elegant satin strap in pearly white. What better way to take a trip down memory lane than to illustrate it with the breathtaking jewellery that marks each great step in our lives? At the same time, marking milestones allows our life experiences to shape and enchant our jewellery choices. Rebecca Hawkins recounts her earliest memory of jewellery as a child of six years when she tried to collect and freeze rainwater on the leaves of lupins to make her own diamonds. Years later, Hawkins created the Boodles Raindance Ring that now sits proudly in a permanent jewellery exhibition in London’s prestigious Victoria & Albert Museum. Far more than mere accessories, our select pieces of fine jewellery are the precious, personal and perpetual gems that create the most visually arresting tapestry of our unique life journey.
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If there’s one thing we’ve learnt from stalking fashion shows, it’s that arms do most of the talking. Bracelets stacked in multi-coloured hues and rings on every finger are the look du jour for the fash pack. Add a watch and live by the mantra that more is more when it comes to arm candy.
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1. Pomellato | 2. repossi | 3. bulgari | 4. Shourouk at S*uce | 5. Cartier | 6. Aurelie Bidermann | 7. stephen webster | 8. Nadine Kanso at S*uce | 9 & 10. hermes | 11. Omega | 12. Tateossian
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13. katie hillier | 14. monica vinader @ matchesfashion.com | 15. salvatore ferragamo | 16. Sara Designs at Bloomingdales | 17. ysl | 18. carolina herrera | 19. tom binns
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Clutching Perfection
From master perfumer to evening bag designer, Kilian Hennessy is making all the right moves in the luxury market. Here he speaks exclusively to MOJEH Magazine about what he learnt from Alexander McQueen, the needs of his discerning customers and his ever-expanding repertoire of creativity.
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ou have to be creative enough to give them something they didn’t even know they wanted. But as soon as they have it in their hands they must think “wow, of course I want this”’. Kilian Hennessy is a man who knows his audience. Speaking of his rapidly growing bespoke business, it’s clear that Kilian has his finger on the pulse of the luxury market. Rising to fame with his hugely successful bespoke perfume line ‘Kilian,’ the CESLA graduate is acutely aware of the luxury shopper. ‘Customers are not surprised these days, so you have to keep things exclusive, so people want it more.’ The Parisian-based designer is speaking of his new clutch line ‘Night Fetishes,’ which has propelled the perfume guru into the world of accessories. The 10-piece collection of box clutches are crafted from black Plexiglas, merging art deco and sleek design for a decadent take on the evening bag. Each clutch, adorned with geometric fixtures in stingray, palladium metal locks, crystals and mother
of pearl, has a provocative balance of old and modern glamour represented in their names: Prohibited, Aphrodisiac, Surrender, Invitation and Don’t Be Shy evoke seduction and luxury, celebrity fans include Karen Elson, Amy Adams and Selita Ebanks. ‘I like the fact that customers can feel special,’ he muses. ‘It’s almost like being part of a club. We know that we are all going to be unique.’ The grandson of the founder of The LVMH Group, Kilian has been immersed in the culture of luxury from a young age. ‘Unconsciously, I was influenced by the family business. I have been influenced by how I had been raised, what I have seen.’ He is of course referring to Hennessy, the cognac house of which he is an heir. The Hennessy cellars provided inspiration for Kilian’s foray into perfumery. ‘I wanted to go back to a perfumery that was in a way the opposite of what was being offered in the market,’ he explains, ‘and unknowingly I would always finish my scents with woodsy, darker notes, absolute vanilla,
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Invitation clutch
Prohibited clutch
Don’t be shy clutch
A Taste of Heaven clutch
Aphrodisiac clutch
Surrender clutch
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188 Straight to Heaven worn by Britt Maren
Taste of Heaven worn by Zooey Deschanel
Clockwise images by Jason Merritt/Getty.
Surrender worn by Amy Adams
Aphrodisiac worn by Ashley Greene
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In animalic notes – scents I was surrounded by growing up.’ Determined to put perfume back on a pedestal, Kilian carefully crafted longer lasting scents. ‘In the ’50s, ’60s and ’70s perfume would become fixed on handkerchiefs, on jackets, on your clothes or skin,’ he explains. ‘That’s why you may hear your mother or grandmother saying that perfumes today don’t stay. I wanted to bring that back.’ His first collection of 10 scents was deliberately crafted to change how we shop for scents. ‘Perfume is a mass product, a disposable product. You feel like nobody is passionate about it anymore and the customer is not surprised. I want to inspire a smile on my customer’s face, something perfume today just doesn’t do.’ Launched in October of 2007, Kilian was ranked number six by December in New York’s Bergdorf Goodman. He recently ranked and has since remained between number one and three in Paris Gallery and remains at the number one spot in Harvey Nichols. Presented in leather silk-lined boxes, it was those beautiful keepsakes that inspired the development of the clutch collection. A previous girlfriend used the perfume box as an evening bag, which led to the conception of a complete line. ‘Every jump I have made in my career seems very natural to me,’ he explains. ‘When I find something gorgeous I know it is gorgeous.’ Inspired by art deco jewellery designers such as Jean Després and Gérard Sandoz, Kilian’s dramatic designs have been described as an ‘objet d’art’ by fans such as Ashley Green, Britt Maren and Zooey Deschanel.
Astute business skills have come from Kilian’s experience with international fashion houses where he consulted for designer scents. His resume includes stints at Christian Dior, Alexander McQueen and Armani, creating McQueen’s Kingdom perfume and the bestselling Armani Code for women. From a global brand perspective each atelier taught him different aspects of branding from perfume to accessories and clothes. ‘When I started at Dior I saw how hard LVMH worked to recover the various licenses that were sold over the years to the brand’s detriment. At McQueen,’ he continues, ‘Lee was very non-business oriented in a way. He was focused on the clothes and had little time for marketing. If he didn’t like a reporter’s questions he would walk out of the interview, and that’s widely known. And what I learned was you can have the most beautiful product in the world, but if you cannot present it correctly, if you cannot get people excited about it, then you have a beautiful product but in a dead cupboard.’ Expansion is on the horizon for Kilian whose first boutique, merging both perfumes and bags, opened in Hong Kong this year. A new perfume line based on Asian influences is also set for release in April and a new handbag collection is scheduled for release in March 2012. ‘The new bag collection will be much bigger, considerably less expensive and has a really unique concept. I have zero confidence in myself actually,’ he reveals, ‘but I have it in beauty. So I am confident that this product will do well because I know it is beautiful.’
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Love, Laugh, Live. Photographed by Riccardo Tinelli Styled by Vanessa Naudin
Cotton shirt, Burberry London | Printed shorts, Missoni | Serpent necklace, Boucheron | Pearl necklaces and bracelet, Chanel
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Dress, Sharon Wauchob | Models right hand: Flamingo ring, Boucheron | Bois de rose gold and diamond rings, Dior Joaillerie |Models left hand: Sea horse ring, Boucheron | Yellow rose ring, Dior Joaillerie | Turtle ring, Boucheron
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Dress, Gucci | Models right hand: Silver cuff, Delfina Delettrez | Models left hand: Bamboo sterling silver bracelet, Gucci Bijoux | Datejust watch, Rolex
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Printed dress, Prada | Necklace, Lanvin |Models right hand: Flower cuffs, Lanvin | Earth ring, Delfina Delettrez | Models left hand: The Idiot box bag, Olympia Le-Tan | Frog ring, Delfina Delettrez
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Tortoise sunglasses, Dita |Printed dress, Koonhor | Models right hand: Gold and diamond bracelet, Boucheron | Jeanne bag, Goyard | Models left hand: 3 Ors bracelets, Cartier | Gold bangle, Dinh Van | Yellow ring, Dior Joaillerie | Shoes, Missoni
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Silk dress, Corrado De Biase | Pearly box bag, Lanvin | Necklace, Ex ThongPrasert | Bracelets, Chanel
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From left to right: Delilah ring, Sheherazade gold necklace and Flamingo ring, Boucheron | Yellow ring, Dior Joaillerie | Loveskin box bag, Olympia Le-Tan
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From left to right: Flower cuffs, Lanvin | Serpent necklace and Turtle ring, Boucheron | Gold bracelet, Dinh Van | Frog ring, Delfina Delettrez | Bamboo large bracelet, Gucci Bijoux | Seahorse and Flamingo ring, Boucheron | Monte Carlo bag, Goyard | Makeup, Chanel | Firewood candle, Fafi x Pop up | Silver cuff and Earth ring, Delifina Delettrez | Headband, Chanel | Tank watch, Cartier | Pearly box bag, Lanvin | Red shoe, Christian Louboutin | Models left hand: Gold watch, Dior Joaillerie | Emeraude and diamond necklace, Van Cleef & Arpels | Silk night dress, Eres
Silk dress, Sharon Wauchob | Silicone necklace, Ek Thongprasert |Pearly necklaces, Chanel | Models right hand: Frog ring, Delfina Delettrez | Gold bracelets, Chanel | Models left hand: Cuff and ring, Chanel
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Shoe, Prada | Double ring and necklaces, Chanel
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Cotton shirt, Burberry London | Earrings and double ring, Chanel
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Model: Annemara Post, Viva Hair: Patrice Delaroche, Labelagence Makeup: Phophie Mathias, Marie France Thavonekham Production: Louis Agency
RAW CANVAS Photographed by Julia Noni Makeup by Topolino, Calliste
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Sheer illuminating base, Perfection lumiere foundation, Teint innocence pressed powder, Chanel | DiorShow maximizer mascara, Dior | Lipstick in Frou, Mac
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Sheer illuminating base, Perfection lumiere foundation, Teint innocence pressed powder, Chanel | Color cream in White, Make Up For Ever
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Sheer illuminating base, Perfection lumiere foundation, Teint innocence pressed powder, Chanel
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Sheer illuminating base, Perfection lumiere foundation, Teint innocence pressed powder, Chanel | Pressed eye shadow in matte pure black used for contouring, Shu Uemura | Lipstick in Frou, Mac
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Sheer illuminating base, Perfection lumiere foundation, Teint innocence pressed powder, Chanel | Pressed eye shadow in matte pure black, Shu Uemura | DiorShow maximizer mascara, Dior | Lipstick in Frou, Mac
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Sheer illuminating base, Perfection lumiere foundation, Teint innocence pressed powder, Chanel | DiorShow, 213 maximizer mascara, Dior | Lipstick in Frou, Mac | Color cream in Pearly Blue, Make Up For Ever
Sheer illuminating base, Perfection lumiere foundation, Teint innocence pressed powder, Chanel | Sheer bronzer, Giorgio Armani
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Model: Chrystal Copland, Marilyn | Hair: TiĂŠ Toyama, Calliste | Photographer assistant: Loc Boyle | Production: Louis Agency
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Supermodel Super Trainer By Meaghan Rogers
Justin Gelband is the man responsible for sculpting the bodies of the world’s most beautiful women. This New Yorkbased supermodel trainer has a client list that reads like a lingerie show line up. Miranda Kerr, Irina Shayk and Candice Swanepoel are just some of the women he trains, expertly taking over where nature left off to create physical perfection and unparalleled fitness. Here Justin talks exclusively to MOJEH magazine about his fitness mantra, effective workouts and the secrets of the Victoria’s Secret girls.
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here are no quick fixes.’ This is the first of many no nonsense statements Justin Gelband delivers during our interview. Speaking before his first workout of the morning at 6am in New York, he is direct and to the point, ‘everybody wants the quick fix. So when people decide that they want to start exercising they may find themselves bored. They start looking at the people around them and from that they create a basic mirage of everything they feel that they can be. That’s when they expect results quickly. If they don’t see results fast, they give up.’ Training mostly women, Justin is more than experienced with the many pressures they face from both themselves and other women. ‘Through my clients, I see what they view on a daily basis from the outside in. Women are ruthless,’ he exclaims. ‘As men we may look at other men and say, “hey he’s got a buff body” or “wow he’s in amazing shape.” But women, they look at what a woman is wearing, what she’s doing. There’s a lot more emphasis put on the way they look rather than how they feel.’ Justin’s supermodel clients are paramount to this scrutiny. Statistically, only about one in a hundred million women get to be a Victoria’s Secret model and this year Justin has trained nine of them. ‘When you’re live on the runway there’s no retouching,’ he explains. ‘Everyone sees everything and your entire body is up for scrutiny. These girls are working out with me everyday for complete body confidence.’ One of those models, Erin Heatherton, has said her workouts with Justin are essential to prepare her for such an international show. ‘The best part of the workout is feeling every muscle and being in control of every muscle. I’m in tune with my body which is how I can walk gracefully down the catwalk even if I’m in high heels and underwear.’
Image by Jamie McCarthy/Getty.
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Clockwise image by: Jamie McCarthy/Getty, Jason Kempin/Getty, Theo Wargo/Getty.
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Miranda Kerr Julia Stegner
Justin’s Supermodel clients
Candice Swanepoel Erin Heatherton
Behati Prinsloo
Lily Aldridge
From left to right image by: Line 1: Theo Wargo/Getty, Jamie McCarthy/Getty, Theo Wargo/Getty, Jamie McCarthy/Getty. Line 2: Toby Canham/Getty, Jamie McCarthy/Getty, Theo Wargo/Getty, Andy Kropa/Getty. Line 3: Astrid Stawiarz/Getty, Jamie McCarthy/Getty, Toby Canham/Getty, Astrid Stawiarz/Getty. Line 4: Theo Wargo/Getty, Jamie McCarthy/Getty, Astrid Stawiarz/Getty.
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Justin’s status has reached such a height that he has developed When it comes to eating right and dieting, Justin has a straightforward ModelFIT, a dedicated workout developed from his work with model approach to getting healthy. ‘There is no diet first of all. There is eating clients now available for the masses, which incorporates zumba, properly and eating things that will make you feel good and give you the martial arts, functional training, capoeira, pilates and yoga. Each class right energy.’ The only eating plan he condones is Eat Right For Your of 45-50 minutes is designed to give you a complete body workout in Type. ‘For me the Blood Type diet, which is 90 percent accurate, is about a short span of time, which he decrees is the perfect workout period. digestion and eating foods that will make you feel good when you put ‘Forty-five minutes to an hour and 15 minutes is fine. Seventy-five them into your system. You’re adding foods that are more digestible minutes is ideal, but if you’re someone who’s just starting, begin at based on your blood type.’ According to Justin, the main obstacle in most women’s way is the 30 minutes and work your way up.’ So what exactly does it take to get a model body like that of Lily tendency to look for shortcuts. ‘Everyone wants a quick fix, and that’s Aldridge or Anne Vyalitsyna? ‘This is the the problem. Everyone wants to know “how trickiest question that everyone wants can I lose the most weight in the fastest way?” Eat right and exercise is the only answer. Yes, to know the answer to,’ Justin muses. ‘Everybody is different and every body is it may take you a little bit longer, maybe two different, that’s what I always say. There are months to a year depending on how much a lot of factors at play for each individual, you want to lose, but if you go in with the such as lifestyle, past injuries, age, diet etc. mentality of “hey I need to lose 10 pounds When I’m training the girls (the Victoria’s in a week,” it’s just not healthy.’ Secret models) and getting them ready for As a trainer for the hottest bodies in the a shoot or a runway show, they’ve already industry, Justin is bombarded with questions been in training for six months, a year, about the models’ secrets. Most notably, how sometimes more. You get better results to get a flat stomach – the holy grail of fitness that last longer when you put in the time aspiration. ‘Everybody wants to know the and effort into your workout,’ he explains. secret to a flat stomach and it’s eating right,’ Justin’s method is highly tuned into each Justin confesses. ‘Cutting out sugars and client and her needs. ‘When a woman salts means you’re not holding too much comes into my gym, model or not, I say, water and can digest your food better. You “ok today her arms aren’t looking that great can do a hundred million sit-ups but they or her legs, or hips or butt,” and I’ll focus only strengthen your back. As far as your on those areas for that particular day. The stomach is concerned, if you do cardio and next time I see them, usually after two or you eat right you can have a flat stomach. Cut Erin Heatherton three days of consecutive workouts, I look out the foods that aren’t easily digestible: at what we’ve created in the past sessions that’s the key.’ and see what I can make better and what I Through an individual routine incorporating need to change. And that’s what I focus on.’ resistance bands, sliders, yoga, boxing and For those of us not working with a personal mixed martial arts, Justin’s aim is to create trainer, the prospect of hitting the gym can be daunting. Justin’s a stronger individual through focused training and healthy eating. advice is simple, ‘if you like a particular sport or exercise incorporate ‘I never do the same exercise twice. It’s all about changing it up and it. If you like to bike, try a spin class. If you like aerobics take a step keeping it interesting.’ A positive hardworking attitude is essential to class and if you like to box go hit some pads for a little while so you see results and Justin prides himself on the transformative effects feel like you’ve done something. Otherwise you’re heading to the of his workouts. ‘If you make a change today and commit to making gym as a lost puppy: you’re unmotivated to continue, so of course yourself feel better you will reach your family, your loved ones, your colleagues in a more positive way. But it all starts with you.’ you’re going to leave.’
“The best part of the workout is feeling every muscle and being in control of every muscle. I’m in tune with my body which is how I can walk gracefully down the catwalk even if I’m in high heels and underwear.”
Justin’s model secrets: • Sliders and resistance bands are key to honing GLIDING DISCS, Gliders.
in on small muscle groups. No one under the
age of 35 should use weights unless their bone Image by Neilson Barnard/Getty Images for Reebok.
density level has dropped.
• You always need to eat within an hour of working out, so that after you exercise your body can replenish the food that has been burned off.
• Drink at least 3 litres of water per day to hydrate properly.
• In the run up to the Victoria’s Secret show, my Bodylastics, Resistance bands.
S’WELL, Insulated stainless steel water bottle.
nine girls train everyday – you need commitment to get results.
Irina Shayk
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David Kirsch, Resistance tubing band The Resistance band is ideal for those who wish to strengthen and tone their muscles.
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Sometimes the most difficult part about leading a healthy lifestyle is getting yourself motivated to actually start moving. That’s where fab workout clothes and innovative fitness equipment come in. Super soft workout gear is a must and we love this Zadig & Voltaire tee paired with these super comfy Stella for Adidas shorts. Complete your look with a cute pair of Balenciaga trainers and a Vuitton tote and you’re sure to win a gold medal for style. 6
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Manduka, Stainless steel water bottle This safe and convenient water bottle will keep your drinks fresh and clean tasting, while reducing your carbon footprint. 8
1. balenciaga | 2. adidas by stella mccartney @ mytheresa.com | 3. zadig & voltaire | 4. David Kirsch, Resistance tubing band | 5. Chanel, Haltères dumbbells | 6. louis vuitton | 7. adidas by stella mccartney @ mytheresa.com
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JadeYoga, Harmony professional mat An eco-friendly and perfect balance of traction and cushion. 10
Physique 57, Exercise ball For amazing results, many Physique 57速 exercises incorporate an exercise ball to work hard-to-target muscles in a unique and fun way. 11
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Power Systems, Aqua versa-tube Enhance aquatic workouts with this water-specific tubing. Powder-free tubes have specialty coating that resists the damaging effects of chlorine; plugs at each end keep water out. Deluxe contoured, pliable handles for a secure grip in the water. 8. Manduka, Stainless steel water bottle | 9. Jade Yoga, Harmony professional mat | 10. Physique 57, Exercise ball | 11. chanel | 12. juicy couture @ net-a-porter.com | 13. balenciaga | 14. missoni | 15. Power systems, Aqua versa-tube
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In the quest for body perfection sometimes we need a little extra help to get rid of stubborn cellulite, kick start a detox or just be healthier from the inside out. We’ve carefully selected what we deem are the best products on the market to help you feel more passionate about you, your health and your body.
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1. MURAD, Firm and Tone Serum. Visually minimises imperfections and reduces the appearance of cellulite and stretch marks by masking and refining uneven skin texture to improve skin firmness and elasticity. 2. ORLANE, Refining Arm Cream. Improves arms’ tone, firmness and definition.
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3. GIVENCHY, No Complex Sculpting and Firming Lotion for the Stomach and Waist helps flatten the stomach and trim the waist through a targeted shaping and firming action. 4. SISLEY, Neck cream. Firming formula specifically designed for the skin on the throat.
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5. OMOROVICZA, Body Brush made of the finest hog bristles, naturally exfoliates skin, helping to break down fatty deposits and reshape the figure. 6. CAUDALIE, Crushed Cabernet Scrub contains the six draining and cellulite-fighting organic essential oils of the Contouring Concentrate. 7. ELEMIS, Cellulox active body oil. Helps to naturally combat the build-up of toxins caused by poor diet and stress. 8. BLISS, FatGirl Soap. Made with massaging nubs and caffeine to stimulate circulation and contour the body and jojoba beads to exfoliate and enhance the penetration of follow-up products.
1 MURAD, Firm and Tone Serum. 2 ORLANE, Refining arm cream. 3 GIVENCHY, No Complex Sculpting and Firming Lotion for the Stomach and Waist. 4 SISLEY, Botanical throat cream. 5 OMOROVICZA, Body Brush. 6 CAUDALIE, Crushed Cabernet Scrub. 7 ELEMIS, Cellulox active body oil. 8 BLISS, FatGirl Soap.
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9 FUNCTIONALAB, Body Toning capsules. 10 FUNCTIONALAB, Body Toning capsules. 11 DR BRANDT, Goji-Maxi3 anti oxidant water booster. 12 CAUDALIE, Draining organic herbal tea. 13 BE WELL by DR. FRANK LIPMAN, Cleanse 14 days detox. 14 DAVID KIRSCH, Vitamin/mineral super juice @spacenk.co.uk.
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9. FUNCTIONALAB, Body Toning capsules. Formulated with a blend of potent ingredients that work synergistically to diminish the appearance of cellulite from the inside out, Body Toning helps speed up fat metabolism and stimulate collagen synthesis to create firmer and smoother skin. 10. PERRICONE MD, Omega3 capsules. Helps elevate mood, regulate weight and support cardiovascular health.
13. BE WELL by DR. FRANK LIPMAN, 14 day Cleanse. Cleanse is a safe and effective detox. It supplies targeted nutrients to boost your body’s natural detox process and eliminates harmful irritants and foods that might be overloading your system. Consisting of three shakes each day along with your own healthy meals, the program provides everything you need to feel nutritionally supported at all times during the cleanse.
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11. DR BRANDT, Goji-Maxi3 anti-oxidant water booster. Rich in anti-oxidants, vitamins, nutrients and amino acids, one daily dose detoxifies and clarifies skin from the inside-out, helps to fight free radicals, combats premature ageing and maintains younger looking skin. 12. CAUDALIE, Draining Organic Herbal Tea. Helps eliminate water excess and toxins for an immediate sensation of well-being.
14. DAVID KIRSCH, Super Juice dissolvable supplement. This delicious, sugar-free drink replaces all of your traditional vitamin pills, delivering all your vitamin, mineral and nutrient needs to enhance digestion and metabolism, fight free radicals, and enhance the health of your bones, skin and eyes. To help keep your energy levels up, Super Juice is infused with green tea, which contains a small amount of natural caffeine.
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We like to think of Valentine’s Day as a time to treat yourself as well as your loved ones. As if you need an excuse, these beautiful pink, red, gold and silver products play up to the Valentine’s theme perfectly and will look better on your dressing table than any flower bouquet or box of chocolates would. After all, true love starts with loving yourself. 4
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1. OPI, Nail polish in Bubble Bath | 2. By Terry, Rouge Terrybly lipstick in Torrid Rose | 3. Bobbi Brown, High shimmer lip gloss in Pink Tulle | 4. Laura Mercier, Fresh fig body scrub | 5. Clinique, Colour surge eye shadow quad in Black Honey | 6. Illamasqua, Cream pigment in Androgen | 7. NARS, Soft touch shadow pencil in Hollywoodland
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8. YSL, Blush radiance in N掳6 | 9. Dolce&Gabbana, Intense nail lacquer in Red | 10. Vera Wang, Lovestruck | 11. Sisley, Skinle每a anti-aging lift foundation | 12. Caron, Gold perfume decanter encrusted with crystals | 13. YSL, Top secrets integral cleansing oil-in-gel | 14. Chantecaille, Poudre de Perle
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Trend
As beauty trends come and go, some looks are a makeup staple as important as the LBD. Made famous by the most iconic screen goddesses of old, MOJEH looks at the six most iconic looks that will become the basis of your most glamorous beauty handbook.
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From left to right images by: Bettmann/Corbis, Henri Bureau/Sygma/Corbis, John Springer Collection/Corbis, Underwood & Underwood/Corbis, Hulton-Deutsch Collection/Corbis, Bettmann/Corbis.
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Audrey’s beautiful brows
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old eyebrows have been back in fashion for a few seasons now as big brows are favoured over thin arches. Thicker brows make a face look more youthful and with regular upkeep help you look as groomed and fabulous as everyone’s favourite doe-eyed beauty Audrey Hepburn. Her heavenly arches are a perfect model of how a great pair of brows can perfectly frame your face. For those of us not graced with a thick set of brows, a great brow pencil is perfect for filling in any gaps. The easiest way to keep unruly hairs in place is with a tinted brow gel. One sweep of this Bobbi Brown brow gel keeps your brows glossy and fixed for the whole day.
“I believe that happy girls are the prettiest girls.” Audrey Hepburn
From top to bottom: Sunset Boulevard/Corbis, Hulton-Deutsch Collection/Corbis.
Bobbi Brown, Natural brow shaper.
“A well dressed woman, even though her purse is painfully empty, can conquer the world.” Louise Brooks
Helena Rubinstein, Eyebrow pencil in Brown.
Sleek locks à la Louise Brooks
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shiny black bob is the ultimate in sleek sophistication and emblematic of the 1920’s flapper trend that is set for a comeback in a huge way this spring/ summer with the Great Gatsby remake and a whole host of designers referencing the ’20s style including Ralph Lauren. The key to this look is super conditioned hair. Start with a luxuriously conditioning shampoo and conditioner; Truffle by Fuente is a fabulous choice. Blow dry hair sleek and straight to really epitomise the Louise Brooks look. Finally to finish off the style, try a smoothing pomade such as Oribe which is flecked with gold particles to further enhance your glass-like shine.
Truffle by Fuente, Shampoo and conditioner.
Oribe, 24k Gold Pomade.
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sultry hair from Brigitte Bardot
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s soon as spring appears on the horizon, Bardot hair comes out to play. The famous French actress is synonymous with easy, breezy, just-rolled-out-of-bed hair. Add a dollop of texturising cream while your hair is damp as a foundation for this look. The simplest way to achieve this look is to separate your hair into five or six sections and then wrap each section around a large-barrelled curling iron, letting the ends poke out messily. This ensures the ends are light and have movement rather than looking stiff and overly done. Hold one section of hair in the iron for 10 seconds or so, then remove it and pin the curled hair on top of your head, until it cools and you finish the rest of your hair. The curling wand from Maria Dowling is light and effective and a favourite for your Bardot bed head.
Brigitte Bardot
MAC, Lipstick in Russian Red.
MAC, Pro longwear lip pencil in Kiss Me Quick.
Red lips are a girl’s best friend
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ew single beauty products evoke more glamour and sensuality than red lipstick. In the 1950s the most popular actresses of the time, namely Marilyn Monroe, helped bring red lips to the forefront of the beauty world in a monumental way. Surveys around this time revealed that twothirds of young women wore lipstick and red was the colour of choice for fans of the silver screen. For many women, Marilyn Monroe represented the epitome of sex appeal and womanhood. Her glossy red lips are an easy and striking makeup staple to try for maximum impact. Always use a liner and choose a red that suits your skin tone; fair skins suit coral tones, medium tones look best with true reds and cranberry shades and dark skins should stick to deep burgundy or warm brick reds.
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Bumble and bumble, Bb. Texture cream.
Maria Dowling, Curling Wand.
“I don’t mind being burdened with being glamorous and sexual. Beauty and femininity are ageless and can’t be contrived.” Marilyn Monroe From top to bottom: Bettmann/ Corbis, Sunset Boulevard/Corbis.
“A photograph can be an instant of life captured for eternity that will never cease looking back at you.”
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Beauty Estee Lauder, Double wear stayin-place eye pencil in Onyx.
Dior, Style Liner in Black.
winged eyes from Sophia
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ophia Loren is an Italian bombshell famous for her curves and beautiful cat eyes. Rising to fame in the 1960s, the extended cat eye quickly became synonymous with bombshell beauty and saw sales in kohl rise to their highest. Sophia still wears this trend today and the modern interpretation of this dramatic liquid liner is a striking beauty staple. Using a myriad of brown shadows, this look suits most skin tones. A palette of earthy browns is perfect for replicating Sophia’s look. The most important step is the black liquid liner; Dior Style Liner is easy to apply and long lasting. Draw a thick, even line from the inner corner extending outwards in a ’60s flick. For added drama, replicate this flick along the bottom lashes and join the two in a bombshell graphic eye. Using a black kohl pencil along your water line. Lashings of black mascara finishes the look.
“Beauty is how you feel inside, and it reflects in your eyes. It is not something physical.” Sophia Loren
From top to bottom: CinemaPhoto/Corbis, Bettmann/Corbis.
“I certainly would have preferred to have made my mark in Hollywood’s shortest hairstyle. Everything would have been easier.” Veronica Lake
’40s waves from Veronica Lake
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nown for her shiny golden hair, which fell in perfectly formed waves over one eye, Veronica Lake is a classic Old Hollywood hair icon. To recreate this look at home, part your hair when it’s dry and make a generous side split. Then set your hair in hot rollers; we love this new set called TheO by Cloud Nine. This innovative set includes rollers that use a Velcro system that won’t cling or pull your hair. To heat one up you simply pop it into the pod for three seconds while it uses heat induction technology to help each roller reach 130 degrees. Heat indicator spots on each individual roller turn orange when they have reached optimum temperature and then turn to grey when the roller has cooled sufficiently to hold your style. For clearly defined waves like Veronica’s, aim to keep your rollers in for at least 30 minutes. After removing the rollers lightly brush the curls out with a soft bristled brush. Set your look with a spritz of glossing spray and you’re film noir waves are ready to wow.
Cloud Nine, TheO pod and rollers.
Sebastian, Halo mist shine spray.
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Magazine Bimonthly IN YOUR HANDS.
COM Daily AT YOUR FINGERTIPS.
Wa n t m o re ? L i k e u s o n F a c e b o o k , f o l l o w u s o n Tw i t t e r, o r g e t a t a t o o !
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The Armani Girl E
ach new season there is a makeup and hair look so beautiful it literally takes your breath away. For spring/ summer 2012 there was a collective intake of breath at the Giorgio Armani show as the luminous models took to the catwalk. Exclusively for MOJEH, Linda Cantello, Mr. Armani’s head makeup artist, shows us how to recreate the look, and stay one step ahead of the season with a sneak peek into spring/summer beauty. International makeup artist Cantello beautifully interpreted Mr. Armani’s vision of light for the Giorgio Armani s/s 2012 show. She describes her look as having ‘a new focus on light - a unique mother of pearl sheen on eyes swept into temples, long with iridescent liner softened with shades of aqua, contrasts with matte skin and wet effect lips to create a new take on the Armani glow.’ Here she takes us through the process step by step including all the products you need to invest in to become a glowing Giorgio girl.
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“The sheen of mother-ofpearl, the iridescence that transforms colours into watery reflections, light that becomes shape, shape that is distilled into the purest lines.�
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Massage and hydrate the skin with Regenessence Youth Serum and Regenessence High Lift. Dab some Designer Lift foundation on the forehead, cheeks and chin and extend it with your finger tips. Don’t hesitate to dab some more foundation on sensitive parts to get an even result, and, if necessary, cover up circles under the eyes with High Precision Retouch. On your hand draw Smooth Silk Eye Pencil n°12 (brown) and dab some of the texture under the cheek bones to shade the face. Then, for a matte finish, powder the entire face and eyelids with Luminous Silk Powder.
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The Armani glow for eyes
With the Smooth Silk Eye Pencil n° 4 (black) draw a line along the lashes of the eyelid. This line should be straight going outward. Pass over this line with Eyes to Kill Eyeshadow n°20 premiering Bronze Collection 2012. Using the Maestro Eyeliner n°1 (black), draw a second line to thicken the lash line and create depth with the previous line. Then take Smooth Silk Eye Pencil n°4 again and draw a line starting at the beginning of the eye socket, stopping leaving the middle blank and then continuing to the outer corner of the eye. Now soften the lines, making the inner part going outwards towards the end of the eyeliner. This truly makes the eye look longer. Then dab on the top outer side of the eyelid going into the brow and a bit above and to the outside corner of the eye, Eyes To Kill Eyeshadow N°23 ( Bronze Collection 2012) for the “nacree” finish. Draw and shape the eyebrows nicely with the same colour as the natural tone of the eyebrows, and finally, curl the lashes and apply Eyes to Kill Lash Stretching Mascara n°1 (black).
The final touch
Lips should be shiny and sensuous with Gloss d’Armani 100. The perfect finish for this soft and romantic look.
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1. Tourmaline pink blush | 2&3. Eyes to kill palette in Luce d’oro | 4.
Smooth silk eye pencil in Antique
gold | 5. Gloss d’Armani in Wild rose
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All products are from the Giorgio Armani SS12 collection, available in stores from February/April.
The perfect nude
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Artist
Marwan Sahmarani In the Belly of the Beast: Marwan Sahmarani’s visual mastery By Jareh Das
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arwan Sahmarani is a painter but his combination of performance, painting and drawing make him a great storyteller. Sahmarani is able to demonstrate the condition of being a painter while depicting varying subjects, which range from classical mythology, literature, politics and sociology. Through his art, he also comments on the condition of being in exile and on the war in his country of origin, Lebanon. He also often explores the unavoidable effects and challenges presented by migrating to the West. Sahmarani’s multimedia installation, The Feast of the Damned (2010), saw paintings and drawings activate the gallery space as floors and ceilings were covered entirely with scenes depicting what can be described as a transient state between the realms of real and unreal. Sahmarani’s installation created an environment that can be described in literary terms as being ‘In the Belly of the Beast.’ As author Jack Abbot describes in his book by the same name, ‘After a dream of heaven, a nightmare intervenes’ – an ethos undoubtedly present in this remarkable piece by the artist. The installation was presented in 2010 at Art Dubai and Marwan Sahmarani was awarded the acclaimed Abraaj Capital Art prize that year. One of his earlier works “The Dictators” Studies For a Monument (2007), features a series of paintings depicting the elongated and distorted images of dictators standing on what look like tiny pedestals. In this critique on socio-political affairs, Sahmarani strips the subjects of their assurance, exposing their vulnerability to the viewer. Sahmarani describes the drawings, originally conceived as sketches for sculptures, as ‘a parody on dictatorship and a study of sculptures not only like those we see in
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countries throughout the Middle East where the dictators raised these monuments as a symbol of glory and power, but also throughout the ages, from the Grecian times to today.’ His Urban Landscape (2008), series captures a modern city’s vibrancy through an explosion of colour, skyscrapers and abstract nature, perhaps representing its continual evolution. For his inaugural solo exhibition in the Gulf at Dubai’s Lawrie Shabibi Gallery, Sahmarani takes a marked departure from previous social and political themes and instead focuses on the effects that fatherhood has on the intrinsic nature of being an artist. The show titled ‘Marie Marie, the devil in me has taken you for a ride’ shows this internal conflict in its subject matter and execution on canvas. The surface is in his usual expressive painterly style, but the multi layering of oils makes the appearance vivid even though the figures are abstract. Untitled 4 (2011), presents the artist’s unique and colourful interpretation of Madonna and Child. Sahmarani’s paintings draw inspiration from Classicism, with an emphasis on mythology and religious iconography. One could imagine his paintings in the Sistine Chapel if it were reinterpreted for a contemporary audience. Sahmarani can be described as a painter’s painter as he understands the nature of the medium so well. He uses oils, inks, watercolours and pastels simultaneously to create the perfect composition. He does not opt for one over the other, but masters the use of a variety of mediums. Sahmarani has an inept understanding for the medium that best expresses his artistic idea as if the medium dictates the subject and vice versa. Both are inextricably linked and demonstrate the challenges of being a jack of all trades – and in this case, master of all trades.
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Artist From top to bottom, left to right: From the series Urban Landscape | From the series Marie Marie, the devil in me has taken you for a ride | Work on paper from The Feast of the Damned, courtesy of The Abraaj Capital Art Prize 2010.
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Installation shot of The Feast of the Damned, courtesy of The Abraaj Capital Art Prize 2010.
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Artist The Dictators-Studies For a Monument.
Biography
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orn in Lebanon in 1970, Sahmarani currently lives and works in Beirut. He left Lebanon in 1989 and moved to Paris to study at l’École Supérieur d’Art Graphique. Sahmarani is best known for his primary use of oil, ink and watercolour and for his representations of the socio-political issues most relevant to the Middle East. He has had solo and group exhibitions in cities such as Beirut, London, Montreal, Ireland, Dubai and Mexico. His featured group shows include Told/ Untold /Retold at Mathaf, Doha (2010), All about Beirut at Kunsthalle whiteBOX, Munich (2010) and the The Feast of the Damned at the Museum of Art and Design, New York (2010). In 2010 Sahmarani was the recipient of the Abraaj Capital Art Prize and his work The Feast of the Damned was showcased at Art Dubai that year. Recently, he was selected to participate in the 3rd Thessaloniki Biennale of Contemporary Art, titled ‘Old Intersections-Make it New.’
All images by Marwan Sahmarani, courtesy of Lawrie Shabibi Gallery.
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With the passage of time series by Samira Alikhanzadeh.
Walter Schels
Galerie Brigitte Schenk
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In vase by Walter Schels.
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rigitte Schenk launched her art gallery in 1992 in Cologne, Germany to focus on contemporary art paintings and new media. Since 1999 her focus has shifted to the transfer of art between the Arab world and Western society. As a pioneering worker in this region, the Galerie Brigitte Schenk organised varying exhibitions and showed many times at the Sharjah Biennial. Most popular to date was the ‘Andy Warhol Tour’ through Abu Dhabi, Dubai and Sharjah in 2002. In the following year, Brigitte Schenk began curating the Royal Collection of H.R.H Sheikha Hoor bint Sultan Al Qasimi from Sharjah, the president of the Sharjah Biennial and daughter of the ruler of Sharjah, H.H Sheikh Sultan bin Mohammed Al Qasimi. The Galerie Brigitte Schenk also very successfully showcased their artists (Middle Eastern and international) at last November’s Abu Dhabi Art Fair. Visit them this February to see the gothic and dreamlike works of Walter Schels’s ‘Flowers’ collection. Walter Schels runs from February 10th through to April 13th at the Galerie Brigitte Schenk, Albertusstrasse 26, 50667 Cologne.
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AB Gallery
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Samira Alikhanzadeh urich’s AB Gallery is one of Switzerland’s finest art spaces and is celebrated for its wonderful representation of art from the Islamic World. Standing for ‘Across Borders’ the gallery curators support a wealthy exchange of art from across cultural borders and especially showcase young and experimental artists. AB is built on the ideas that art connects, demands tolerance and creates a universal language and that art knows no limitations through nations and borders or religions and ideologies. This season Iranian artist Samira Alikhanzadeh showcases her series of works revolving around mirror fragments and light reflection. As a symbolic object, she uses the mirror as a passage between the spheres of reality and a dream, fairytale-like world. It stands between perception and illusion and raises the question of what is actually real and written in its entirety. ‘Embedded in the Image’ runs from January 25th through to March 10th at the AB Gallery, Arealstrasse 6, CH-6020 Emmenbrucke-Luzern, Switzerland.
Raeda Saadeh Rose Issa Project
Cinderella courtesy of Raeda Saadeh and Rose Issa Projects.
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ose Issa is a curator, writer and producer who has moved through Iran, Lebanon and France and now resides in London’s Kensington. She has promoted visual art and film from the Middle East for 30 years and continues to be at the helm of regional art showcased to an international audience. Along with producing popular exhibitions, publications and private shows, Rose Issa serves as guest curator for many international institutions. One of her biggest achievements to date is the launch of the first-ever Arab Film Festival in Paris. Visit the private space this March to view the photographic works of Palestinian-born Raeda Saadeh, who presents a series of familiar fairytale characters in scenes reminiscent of those faced by Palestinians on a daily basis. ‘True Tales, Fairy Tales’ runs from March 8th through to April 7th 2012 at the Rose Issa Project, 269 Kensington High Street, London W8 6NA.
Rupunzel courtesy of Raeda Saadeh and Rose Issa Projects
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All Eyes on Franca As Editor in Chief of one of the world’s most artistically influential magazines, Vogue Italia, Franca Sozzani has not only seduced the industry, but also made it her mission to encourage the way we think about culture. For this issue of MOJEH, our own Editor in Chief sits down with her industry contemporary to discuss an artistic choice at the top of both their agendas: young talent in the creative industry. 244
Clockwise images by: Tullio M. Puglia/Getty, Pascal Le Segretain/Getty, Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty, Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty.
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From left to right images by: Venturelli, Vincenzo Lombardo/Getty, Gareth Cattermole/Getty.
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ever one to conform, Sozzani married at the age of 20 and after deciding she wasn’t suited to the lifestyle, she took a leap and her feet landed firmly on fashion grounds. Her first big project was helping to found Lei Magazine in the ’80s, which pushed cultural boundaries, questioned the habitual and gave fashion a voice as opposed to just a look. In 1998 she became Editor in Chief of Vogue Italia. Written in a dialect practiced far less than its American, English and French counterparts, Sozzani decided the international language of her magazine would be its visual extraordinaire. So forth Italia became the most visually out-spoken of the Vogue family. The world watched as Sozzani placed plus-sized women on front covers, created an issue dedicated to black women, used Linda Evangelista to question plastic surgery and doused Kristen McMenamy in Dior couture and crude oil in reaction to the Gulf of Mexico oil spill. Photographers like Stephen Meisel, Bruce Weber, Peter Lindbergh to name a few – many of which she has supported since the early days of their careers – have joined her in her protests. Today she still pioneers young talent and deems it a vital element in the creative process. ‘I go on instinct. There are so many young, talented people who have a great energy, an interesting approach,’ she once said, ‘they see things in a different way.’ Today Sozzani practices what she preaches in support of young designers, particularly with the opening of the Talent Store, at Fidenza Village in Milan where Mojeh meets with her.
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“I go on instinct. There are so many young, talented people who have a great energy, an interesting approach.”
1. Franca and Giorgio Armani attend Vogue. it during MFW in 2010 | 2. Franca attends the Givenchy SS12 fashion show in
2011 | 3. Franca, Naomi Campbell and Eva Herzigova attend
the ‘Pirelli Corso Venezia’ flagship store opening in 2011 | 4.
Copies of Vogue Italia displayed at the Vogue Editorial Office in Milan | 5. Desiree Bollier, Franca and Olivia Palermo attend the ‘Talent Store’ Opening at Fidenza Village in 2011 | 6. Franca
and Mario Testino attend the Stefanel 50th Anniversary Party in 2009 | 7. Franca and Frida Giannini attend the 2011 GUCCI Award For Women In Cinema.
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Where did the idea of the Talent Store come from?
Once a year, Vogue Talent gives exposure to young students who are already doing something, or people who we believe have something to say, perhaps art directors, assistants or designers. During Milan Fashion Week we offer the possibility for these people to showcase their talents in front of buyers and the media. It gives young talent who don’t usually have the connections, the right platform in the hope that they can use it and go on.
Historically, you’ve had a very unique eye for spotting incredible talent. How do you decide on the chosen designers for the talent store?
It’s a very long process. We launch in January and select a final 10, who then sit in front of an international jury in Rome. Finally, they end up in the store in Milan where they can interact with retailers and journalists, which helps them build a far better relationship. It’s the best way of telling if they fit the market and the buyers.
You rose to becoming an editor at a very young age. How do you spot the same drive and ambition in these designers?
Some of the younger people are so strong and they are so humble it helps them know exactly what it is that they want. They never try and over do and they are always eager to listen and learn. We need their energy in the business today.
How do you think young talent is changing the way we shop?
Today we need many different people to help us and the younger generation are key to that. They are not known however and we can’t just push them through our magazines, we need to present them with opportunities and platforms to really meet the industry.
As one of Italy’s most accomplished fashion persons, what do you think truly distinguishes Italian fashion?
Orlando Bloom and Franca attend the ‘Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty’ Costume Institute Gala in 2011.
I don’t believe so much in distinguishing countries anymore. We live on such an international platform that everything is more global rather than regional. Made in Italy still shows a certain quality in design and craftsmanship however, and we will always be very proud and appreciative of that.
I go by instinct. You must believe in your ideas and then they are possible.
Your past work has involved many collaborations with esteemed photographers, some of whom you have supported since the very early stages of their careers. Do you have any favourites?
Where do I start?! Craig McDean, Mario Testino, Peter Lindbergh… all of them! Each of them has their own style, their own way and their own vision. If you were in a store and everything was black you’d be bored in one second. We need variation, we need different presentation and we need vision. Each of them brings something different and extraordinary to the table.
What are you most passionate about? Art, culture and life!
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Bianca Brandolini D’Adda and Franca attend the ‘Sadie Coles And Angela Missoni Dinner For Gabriel Kuri And Urs Fischer’ in 2011.
Donatella Versace and Franca at the book launch of Franca Sozzani’s book ‘I Capricci Della Moda’ in 2010.
Clockwise images by: Larry Busacca/Getty and Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty.
You have always used strong artistic direction in Vogue Italia, how do you continually carry out the ideas?
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Lose Yourself in a Book Indulge in some international best sellers from Macmillan and set your reading sites high for the rest of the year.
ALICE BLISS Laura Harrington
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an you ever let go of those who leave? Alice Bliss is 15. She’s smart, funny, and clever. She also idolises her father and, when he leaves home to fight a war she doesn’t believe in, Alice is distraught. Telling a story of love and loss, of grief and growing up, of family and friendship, Alice Bliss is a powerful, poignant portrayal of a young girl facing up to the unthinkable. ‘A powerful and richly delineated novel’ - Sarah Blake, bestselling author of The Postmistress. ‘Heartbreaking yet edged with promise, Alice Bliss explores the wounds of war, love, and family bonds while illuminating the strength of a young girl’s spirit. A stunning debut’ Beth Hoffman, New York Times bestselling author.
THE FAMILY FANG
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Kevin Wilson
unique and very funny novel in which art imitates life and life imitates art in the most mysterious ways. ‘This is the kind of novel you fall in love with: tender-hearted, wonder-filled, a world all its own’ - Josh Weil, author of New Valley. The family Fang create art– performance art, provocations, interventions – call it what you like, but many people certainly don’t call it ‘art’. The family Fang’s magnum opus will determine what is ultimately more important: their family or their art. ‘The Family Fang is a comedy, a tragedy, and a tour-de-force examination of what it means to make art and survive your family.’ Ann Patchett, bestselling author of Bel Canto. ‘Great art is difficult’ – that’s the motto of the family Fang!
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Ellen Feldman
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NEXT TO LOVE rom the Orange Prize Shortlisted author of Scottsboro comes a heartbreaking saga of love and loss in the aftermath of war. It is 1942 in the town of South Downs, Massachusetts and Babe, Grace and Millie have been best friends since their first day of kindergarten. Despite their differences, they’ve played together, grown up together, shared each other’s secrets and, when the threat of war becomes a reality for America too, the girls begin a new phase of their lives together: each quickly marries her first true love, before their men leave for Europe. As each woman struggles to rebuild a life, they face not only the challenges closest to home – the question of remarriage, of how to tell a child about their absent father – but also the wider issues of a country in flux: sexism, racism, anti-Semitism. Tinged with tragedy, yet filled with hope, Next to Love is the story of three women at the heart of the century – a celebration of their friendship across three decades of the most unthinkable adversity. It is a remarkable novel you are unlikely to forget.
THE LOST DAUGHTER Lucretia Grindle
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compelling new mystery from the author of The Villa Triste. In Florence, a young American student goes missing. At first neither Alessandro Pallioti, one of the city’s most senior policemen, nor Enzo Saenz, his deputy, are too concerned but when the young girl’s mother gets kidnapped, the case gets complicated. With the horrors of the past rising behind him and the women’s futures hanging in the balance, Enzo Saenz is on unfamiliar ground and playing the most deadly game of his life. Set against the stunning backdrop of Ferrara, Rome and Florence, and taking place both in the 1970s and the modern day, The Lost Daughter is at once a gripping thriller and the heartbreaking story of a desperate love affair, the consequences of which will resound for decades.
NIGHT ROAD Kristin Hannah
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he most compelling novel yet from the internationally bestselling Kristin Hannah. Set on Pine Island, Night Road is the story of three teenagers: Lexi, Mia and her twin brother Zach. Lexi’s childhood was spent watching her alcoholic mother slowly poison herself to death. When she turns 14, Lexi’s Aunt Eva takes her in to live with her in her caravan on a trailer park. Mia and Zach Farraday, on the other hand, had an idyllic childhood with everything they could possible want from an adoring and doting mother. Lexi, sweet natured and gentle, finds a soul mate in Mia and they become best friends. Lexi falls in love with Zach the moment she first sets eyes on him. Life changes for them all on a fateful summer’s night following their graduation party.
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Inner Beauty By Gillian Brett
A beautiful facade is just that. If what lies beneath is of no substance, the whole structure will crumble. An investigation into the existence of inner beauty: how does it enhance our outside aesthetics? 250
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Talking Women of the UAE project by Charney Magri
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Women of the UAE project by Charney Magri
“Surround yourself with positive people and take care of yourself ”
udrey Hepburn was once quizzed about her beauty secrets. She replied with remarkable grace, ‘For lovely eyes, seek out the good in people. For a slim figure, share your food with the hungry. For beautiful hair, let a child run his or her fingers through it once a day. People, even more than things, have to be restored, renewed, revived, reclaimed and redeemed. Never throw out anybody. The beauty of a woman is not in a facial mole. True beauty in a woman is reflected in her soul. It is the caring that she lovingly gives, the passion that she shows, and the beauty of a woman with passing years only grows.’ Before you recognise this as a touching vision and let it quickly drift away like an unattainable ideal, stop and allow yourself to truly absorb this altruistic and generous vision. Sure, an attractive appearance is important and gives an excellent first impression, but once you scratch the surface, we all want to think there’s something equally as exciting lurking beneath. Hepburn wasn’t just a pretty on-screen presence; she was fluent in English, Spanish, French, Dutch and Italian, trained as a dental assistant, was a tireless UNICEF campaigner and had a Best Actress Oscar under her belt. Yet, her imperfections were just as endearing: she was hampered by insecurities, like everyone else, and despite her svelte 34A-20-34 frame, was very self-conscious about her size 41 (US size 10) feet. Her etiquette was equally as flawed and minutes after accepting her Oscar, she realised that she’d left it in the toilet. She raced back to the ladies’ room, retrieved the award, regained her composure and was ready to pose for photographs – her smile no doubt all the more genuine over her bathroom blunder. Hepburn’s mishap is irrelevant because of her strength of character and ability to laugh at herself, and the way she carries herself with confidence makes what she perceived as a physical flaw undetectable to onlookers. ‘The greatest beauty secret is simply our attitude towards life which is reflected in our face; affirms Dr Ssrija Nair, a healer who runs an Inner Beauty Practitioner course in the Cosmetic Healing Centre in Dubai. Indeed compulsive exercising, obsessive calorie counting and gruelling beauty regimes will reap physical rewards, but perhaps if we put the same level of fervour into the other aspects of our lives, we might find that our lives suddenly become infinitely more interesting. The concept of ‘inner beauty’ is sneered at for being a notion unattractive people use as a scapegoat for not conforming to modern beauty ideals. In actuality, holding yourself hostage to an aspirational future where you will look amazing, be a size or two smaller, have a whiter smile or clearer skin is a rather sad way to allow all the imperfect fun that you could be having right now pass you by.
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‘Happiness begins where comparisons ends’
So surely the aggressive cosmetics industry is to blame for our lack of self-esteem right? Wrong. Blaming the ever-burgeoning beauty industry, or their flawlessly airbrushed campaigns is about as insightful as blaming childhood obesity on the invention of fast food. We do have a choice here. ‘The commercial cosmetics industry has made people look forward to treating their outer appearance,’ maintains Dr Nair, ‘yet, we mustn’t forget that stress and low self esteem contribute to an early loss of the inherent beauty of the skin. Inner beauty is revealed by our outer appearance and real beauty encompasses what’s inside: your zest for life, your fun-loving spirit, a smile that lights up your face and your compassion for others. Therefore, inner beauty is essential.’ According to psychiatrist Denise Kane, we must avoid the term ‘selfesteem’ and replace it with ‘self-worth.’ ‘Feeling beautiful is about valuing yourself enough to acknowledge the effort you’ve put into your appearance, to feel good about that and not to continuously strive for more and more. Unlocking one’s inner beauty doesn’t mean rebuking grooming rituals altogether – quite the opposite in fact. Walking around with dirty hair, in unkempt clothing will leave you feeling worthless. To gain self-worth, you must place enough importance on yourself to make the most of your appearance and to know you deserve to look good. Buy a jacket that makes you look fabulous or colour your hair if it makes you feel more radiant.’ While Kane encourages preening to increase self-confidence, she warns that allowing it to completely absorb you – whereby physical perfection has become an obsession – is a counter-productive exercise. In order to avoid becoming overconsumed, she recommends taking time out of your daily rituals to reassess your life goals. She invokes the practise of ‘mindfullness’ for staying on the right track to balancing inner and outer splendour. ‘Everyday you must stop what you are doing and for just a moment be “present.” Look at your surroundings, be aware of those around you and encourage yourself to think positively. Smile when you talk to someone
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and help that person feel present too. Engaging fully with other people also improves self-worth. When in a conversation, instead of worrying that your reply won’t sound intelligent or witty enough, really listen to what the other person is saying and your response will come far more naturally.’ In particular, when we connect with someone we love, our brains release the feel-good hormone oxytocin. When you are physically close to someone you care about or feel touched by the example of those you admire, your heart beats faster, triggering its release which in turn evokes feelings of contentment, reduces anxiety and encourages us to feel compassion for those around us. Meanwhile, a reduction or absence of oxytocin is linked to narcissism, so give someone you love a hug and get the cuddle chemical flowing. You should also bear in mind that in order to attract someone’s attention, you must be more than just attractive. Charney Magri is an awardwinning photographer who has assisted the legendary Nick Knight, shot for British Vogue and captured campaigns for Louis Vuitton and L’Oreal. She’s seen some of the most beautiful faces in the world up close in the flesh, yet in 2010 she felt compelled to explore a different, less obvious type of beauty. ‘It all started with a journey of self-discovery. I went to Africa for a charity bike ride and started to question the notion of beauty and why some women were gracing the covers of magazines and others were not. I moved to the UAE, after eight years in the UK, and brought this project with me.’ Magri began her Women of the UAE photography project as a way to finally immortalise women with true inner beauty. ‘I aim to break down stereotypes and build bridges both regionally and internationally....I ask [the subjects] about themselves, get a feeling for who they are and what they’re about. I then translate this into my own visual interpretation to best represent them...I am working with snippets of people’s personalities, their soul, their beauty.’ Against a stark white background, Magri brings out the beauty in women from all walks of life, ‘business women, nannies, Emiratis, expatriates, the
Image by Bettmann/CORBIS
Audrey Hepburn with her Best Actress Oscar in 1954.
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Image by Bettmann/CORBIS
‘Women of the UAE’ project by Charney Magri
young, the old.’ With an application process that begged the question ‘What do I live my life by?’ Magri reveals her own mantra for life: ‘Trust the process. Do what you do, to the best of your ability, but realise that sometimes in life, things happen for a reason. You may not know why at the time, so until you do, trust the process.’ Positive thinking is another vital beauty giver from within. According to celebrity personal trainer and positive mindset expert Jeff Cafolla, even with gruelling fitness regimes and meticulously healthy eating, the body will respond better if it’s working from a positive perspective. ‘There was a case study done on Olympic athletes which tested the theory of “mind over matter.” They were broken up into four groups. The first group did 100 percent physical training and no mindset training. The second group focused 100 percent on mindset training and did no exercise. The third group did 25 percent physical preparation and dedicated 75 percent to their mindset. And finally, the fourth group did 75 percent physical training and focused 25 percent on mindset. The conclusion was that the team who did just 25 percent training and 75 percent mindset preparation took home the most gold medals and broke the most records. They would train rigorously for 25 percent of their time, then for the remaining 75 percent they would sit and visualise themselves attaining their goals; running or swimming faster than their opponents, reaching finish lines in record times and lifting trophies.’ Thus, the study proves that you can have all the physical exertion in the world, but without self-belief it is much harder to attain your goals. The following recommendations are less scientifically, psychologically, physically or spiritually grounded, but by personal recommendation are ways and means of making life a little less stressful and a lot more fun. First of all, resist pointless comparisons: sure Miranda Kerr’s lithe figure sprang back to its pre-pregnancy perfection within months of childbirth, Gisele Bündchen ommed her way through a natural birth and is richer than Dow Jones, and Kirsten Stewart is only 21...Stop.
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‘Relax, be present, look around you and smile’
Audrey Hepburn volunteering for the Red Cross in 1954.
Now. Surround yourself with positive people – if you need a pick-me-up, meet the friend who has an intelligent perspective on life, not the one who’ll recoil in horror when you unpack your woes. Watch something on TV that reminds you there are interesting things happening in the world, and not just to the celebrities whose faces fill our screens everyday – the Discovery Channel is a good place to start. Relax. That’s right, decide this weekend is not the one that you will use to clean out your closet/feng shui the front room/sort out every aspect of your life, and just completely and utterly unwind. Stop slogging it out in a gym and go for a walk somewhere scenic. Forget about your weight, sluggish digestion and allergies – stressing less can help all three to improve or disappear of their own accord. Don’t text, BBM, email or Facebook your best friend, pick up the phone and call her. Eat some carbs. Enhance your best asset. Instead of tirelessly trying to improve or camouflage perceived flaws, pick out your best feature and reward it for making you feel so good; if you’ve got great nails treat them to a manicure and marvel at their magnificence, or if you’ve a covetable mane of silk, go for an in-salon treatment and a bouncy blow-dry to boost its va-va-voom. All the while, bear in mind loving yourself shouldn’t equate to arrogance. It’s all about acceptance. You’ll turn the next page and may forget some or all of this advice, but before you do, please take a moment to fulfil this final small suggestion. Think about one thing you love about yourself, it can be a personality trait or a practical skill. Now say to yourself ‘I am fabulous because I...’ It’s not up to the beauty industry, your friends, your personal trainer or the media you engage with to bestow you with self-worth and inner beauty. We can all tap into our inner optimists and allow our glowing sense of sanguinity to shine in our eyes, skin, hair and nails, to straighten our posture and ease our worries. For as Audrey Hepburn one said, ‘Remember, if you ever need a helping hand, it’s at the end of your arm.’ Dr. Ssrija Nair, www.cosmichealingcentre.org, Charney Magri, www.charneymagri.com
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