The Anniversary Issue by MOJEH

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EDITORIAL

PUBLISHING

Editor in Chief MOJEH IZADPANAH

Publishing Director RADHIKA NATU

Associate Editor SHERI IZADPANAH

Publishing Assistant DESIREE LABANDA-GAVERIA

Assistant Editor KELLY BALDWIN

Paris Representative GHISLAIN DE CASTELBAJAC

Guest Fashion Editors ALESSANDRA STELLA BRYAN MARRYSHOW DONATELLA MUSCO JESSICA GORDON

LOUIS FOURTEEN FOR MOJEH Concierge Service Management ASSMA AHMED Personal Stylist MARY LOUISE READ

Fashion and Beauty Journalist MEAGHAN ROGERS

Lifestyle Manager OLGA KOVALCHUK

Copy Editor RANIA MOAZ

Corporate Manager JUBRAN HAMATI

Editorial Assistants ALEXANDRA BLACHA ALIA AL SADEK

Customer Representative VANESSA PASAGUE

Editorial Contributors BOBBI BROWN GHADA AL DABBAGH JAREH DAS ZAIN MASUD

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ART

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Art Director AMIRREZA AMIRASLANI

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Contributing Photographers FEDERICO DE ANGELIS RAPHAEL DELORME SILJA MAGG THIERNO SY tracey morris

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Louis Fourteen for MOJEH www.formojeh.com, info@formojeh.com “BPA Worldwide Consumer Publication Audit Membership Applied for June 2011.” Publisher’s Own Data: Average Circulation for the period September to December 2011- 14,468/ 96% of Total Print Run. For the UAE printed by Emirates Printing Press LLC. Distribution- UAE: Jashanmal National Company LLC. Qatar: Dar Al Sharq. Bahrain: Jashanmal & Sons BSC (C). Oman: United Media Services LLC The publishers regret that they can not accept liability for error or omissions contained in this publication, however caused. The opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessary those of the publishers. Readers are advised to seek specialist advice before acting on information contained in this publication which is provided for general use and may not be appropriate for the readers particular circumstances. The ownership of trademark is acknowledged, therefore reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. All credits are subjects to change. Copyright HS MEDIA GROUP FZ LLC 2011

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Contents

SOCIETY

Mojeh

22. Birthday Cards

Our friends in the industry help us celebrate turning one with a host of beautiful birthday cards.

28. Fashion Week Style

Kick starting our report on the SS12 season we see fashion week from four industry insiders point of view.

32. Memoir

World famous makeup artist Bobbi Brown shares with us her most memorable moments.

164

36. Woman in Society

We meet with the founder of Magic of Persia to discuss the importance of knowing where you came from.

44. society interview

An interview with French It girl Clemence Poesy.

FASHION 50. Spring/Summer 2012 Fashion Special

From trend reports to show reviews and fashion week diaries we have pages and pages showcasing the best of the season ahead.

94. Spotted at NY FW

Everything that caught our eye during the NY SS shows.

170

101. Blogger Report

Come with us as we visit the most exciting new fashion blogs of 2012.

140. Models of the Minute

A list of the top models from London, New York, Milan and Paris. See if your favourite girl made it.

144. Couture Week Diary

Everything thats new and beautiful from the world of Haute Couture.

160. Chanel Couture

We take an exclusive look inside the couture ateliers of Chanel for a rare view of the most exquisite dresses in the world.

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164. Fashionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Golden Girl

In our designer interview we speak with industry impresario Rachel Zoe, who has single handedly transformed the styling industry in Hollywood.

Contents

ACCESSORIES

Mojeh

274. Most Desired

MOJEH’s pick of the must have accessories for the coming months. Nothing can compare to these six lovelies.

286. Accessory Spotlight

The much loved summer shopper finally gets it’s time to shine this season.

288. Accessory Icon

We take an in depth look into the wardrobe of super stylist Caroline Sieber and her penchant for amazing accessories.

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296. Accessory Flash

Fall in love with turquoise with our pick of the most gorgeous blue pieces to add to your jewellery box.

298. Accessory Interview

Delve into the world of vintage jewellery with three industry insiders and an exclusive interview with the enigmatic Kenneth Jay Lane.

BEAUTY 312. Trends

What’s hot this season in hair and beauty trends straight from the catwalk.

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288

326. Knight in Shining Armour

We sit down with the incomparable Sam McKnight who talks royalty, supermodels and of course hair.

334. Body of Work

Want a body like Blake Lively? Bobby Strom shows us how.

CULTURE 340. Artist in Residence

Artist Farhard Moshiri is next up in the artist in residence portfolio.

348. Life in Culture

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302

Actress Keira Knightley discusses her past, present and future.

352. Talking Point

Short stories on life’s special moments from around the world.

xiao photographed by juergen teller

doha

dubai

jeddah

manama

riyadh

www.marcjacobs.com

letter

Editor’s

One year on…

Ode to Feminity, Photographed by Federico De Angelis

he other reason March is an exceptional month is that it commemorates MOJEH Magazine’s one-year anniversary issue. We have had the privilege of working with the best photographers and stylists in a series of breathtaking shoots over the year. For our anniversary issue we have complied some of our favourites on the announcement pages to pay homage to an incredibly stylish portfolio. To collect each beautiful issue you can order our back catalogue from mojeh.com with just a click of a button. After seven issues of MOJEH, we are thrilled to have all of our supporters in the industry wishing us well. The creativity coming from some of our favourite brands shines through their birthday cards that decorate the coming pages. The celebratory theme resonates throughout this issue from our decadent shoot in the Maison de Baccarat to our exclusive interview with Rachel Zoe. Topped off with our spotlight on Fashion Week, issue 07 is full of beauty and wonder. Join us online for full collections and Daily Recommendations on mojeh.com, minute-by-minute coverage of Fashion Week on Twitter and news and reviews on Facebook. A year has gone by in a blink. We are incredibly proud of the entire team and touched by the support from our friends in the industry and you the reader. From Dubai to London, New York to Paris, wherever you may be reading this magazine, we thank you. Your support and excitement means the world to us. With MOJEH meaning ‘eyelash,’ our magazine – and I say our meaning both yours and mine – will always see the world through the eyes of the new age woman. She’s smart, she’s sophisticated, she’s enduringly stylish…she is you.

Mojeh Izadpanah Editor in Chief

Mojeh Izadpanah, Photographed by Nick Hudson

March is a very exciting time for MOJEH Magazine. First of all, it marks the beginning of a new season in the fashion world. Colour, texture and print are everywhere as a whole new mood lifts the fashion industry. The spring summer collections dictate what we will be wearing for the next portion of the year, and judging by our show reports we are in for a fabulous summer. From trends and colour reports in fashion and beauty and accessories, we present a definitive guide to SS12 helping you choose the best pieces to shine all season long.

22 special

Anniversary

special

Anniversary

24 special

Anniversary

special

Anniversary

Snapshots

Editorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

Great Expectations for Fresh New Collections Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a new season, which means a whole lot of brand new collections to choose from and a plethora of new beauty products to try. From water-inspired collections from Givenchy, colourful stripes at Stella and luxurious creams from Guerlain, this season is all about you so dive in and enjoy.

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Snapshots

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week style

Fashion

Five Minutes with... 1 2

Jessica Gordon

Stylist

French stylist Jessica is an industry favourite and continually tops our list of fabulous dressers! See how she makes her way through the capital.

Which Fashion Week did you attend? Paris!

Which collections stand out for you this season?

Haider Ackermann for the silk trousers – incredible mix of fabric and colour; Prada for the silhouettes colours (again!) and shoes; I love the sense of humour behind Muccia’s collection; Balenciaga, especially the hats. 7

What will work its way into your own summer wardrobe? Dries Van Noten’s prints and Celine’s perfect cuts.

What style rules do you live by for Fashion Week?

Easy hair – loose or in a high pony tail – light makeup that doesn’t need to be retouched, vintage Missoni sunglasses and my brogues so I can run from one show to the other!

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Being a true French girl I can’t resist a hot chocolate and cake from Angelina’s...

Which fashion capital’s street style are you most inspired by?

I love all of them for many reasons, but I’m actually travelling to Japan this March and I can’t wait to get inspired by street style in Tokyo!

Which models did you spot this season who you’d most love to style?

It would be amazing to work with Saskia de Brauw and Anna de Rijk. They are both stunning and have great personalities. For newcomers: Jasmine Tookes, Erjona Ala and Marte Mei Van Haaster.

Who would be your dream person to style?

Meryl Streep, then, now, always! The way she transforms for each role is fascinating!

From top to bottom: Images courtesy of Mick Roessler/Corbis, Craig Barritt/Getty.

What food and drink gets you through the week?

week style

Fashion

Eda Kuloglu Harvey Nichols Buyer

Eda is the Buyer and Merchandiser for Harvey Nichols Dubai, making her a seasoned Fashion Week traveller as she hunts the shows every year for styles to make us swoon.

Which three collections took your breath away for SS 12?

Giambattista Valli, Monique Lhuillier, Theyskens’ Theory

Which show production stood out to you?

Alexander McQueen. Sarah Burton’s collections seem to only get stronger and the aquatic- themed show was truly a production in itself.

Which styles will make their way into your wardrobe this summer?

Rather than a specific style, I will be investing in colours. Neons are a prominent trend with many bright yellows, pinks, greens and oranges; it is a definite flashback to the 1980s!

Which model caught your attention this season?

Lara Mullen. She appeared in such shows as Prada, Alexander Wang, Dries Van Noten, Chloe, Vera Wang & Theyskens’ Theory. Her face was everywhere.

From top to bottom image courtesy of: Michael Nagle/Getty.

What is your own style like during the busy Fashion Week?

Practical! It’s such a hectic time and I am running from one show to the next as well as going from showroom to showroom so a pair of comfortable pumps, black J brand jeans and a Stella McCartney blazer is my go to look. If it’s cold out I go for my Marni fur coat.

Which of the four cities do you most love during Fashion Week? While each city has something unique to offer, I always enjoy New York the most. There is a great energy and the mood always seems positive.

What key attributes do you look for in the new collections? Uniqueness is important. Also, being in the Middle East, many of our customers have beautiful skin tones that allow them to wear colour very well – so colour in a collection is an important factor.

week style

Fashion

Charlotte Nolting International Model

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New girl Charlotte is one of the most exciting models to hit the shows this season. Walking a total of 30 runways, what are her Fashion Week musts? Which was your favourite show to walk?

Probably Moschino Cheap and Chic – the stage looked amazing! The whole area around the catwalk was set up like a market and everywhere you looked there were boxes of fruits and vegetables.

Which show was the most exciting for you?

The Theyskens Theory show in NY because there were so many great models!

Probably Nivea skin cream.

How would you describe your street style?

It varies. Overall it’s pretty casual though. I wear a lot of black things...they are so easy to combine.

Who is your model icon?

I don’t really have an icon, but I do love Twiggy and Lily Cole!

What coffee do you drink to keep you going during the week? Usually espressos and cappuccinos.

Where do you go to relax during Fashion Week?

Whenever I have free time I go to the Guggenheim museum or Central Park to read a book if it’s warm outside.

What do you do to recover after Fashion Week? Nothing really since I usually have to go straight back to school after the shows.

cole | 9. charlotte nolting | 10. cappuccino | 11. guggenheim museum

From top to bottom image courtesy of: Battmann/Corbis. Stephen Lovekin Getty. Justin Sullivan/Getty.

What product can’t you live without during Fashion Week?

week style

Fashion

Portia Shaw

Fashion PR

Portia has worked the fashion PR scene for long enough to know exactly what does and doesn’t go during Fashion Week. See how she moves with style.

What do you most love about Fashion Week?

The people – there is so much effort to make sure everyone stands out in the crowd. In our PR bubble though, we spend the run up working on sponsorship and press, so that chase also adds a huge amount of excitement.

Which styles do you have your eye on for the season? I love black through and through, so anything black, dramatic and flowing.

Which designer really impressed you this year?

Sveta Sotnikova’s first collection. It consisted of handmade leather pieces and the extreme cuts, shapes and structures have truly captured the imaginations of the industry.

Image courtesy of Peter Macdlarmid/Getty, Thos Robinson/Getty.

Which is your favourite city?

I am a London girl and have to keep the support there! It’s quite vocal and you tend to hear people’s thoughts on a show immediately. With so many venues such as Somerset House, The Show Space, My Beautiful Fashion and Vauxhall Fashion Scout, you know your designers will be well looked after.

Whose style do you most look forward to seeing?

Lucinda Chambers at Vogue. She has to be one of London’s most elegant and quirky females.

What is your fail-safe outfit during Fashion Week? Head-to-toe black, big heels and big hair!

What could you not be without during Fashion Week?

My right hand Sarah Hennigan who literally reads my mind and my makeup bag essentials including MAC eyelashes and Blankety lippy.

1. London | 2. The Row @ net-a-porter.com | 3. Sveta Sotnikova | 4. Somerset

Mojeh

MEMOIR

Makeup Moments

n makeup, women identify with other women who know exactly how we want to feel, look and be seen, which is why Bobbi Brown is the perfect beauty mentor. She is the older sister we never had who teaches us how to be as powerful as we are pretty. In this month’s memoir, MOJEH asks the international makeup artist to share with us her most memorable moments. From the birth of her sons to the creation of a Rolling Stones album cover, here’s a woman for whom beauty is far more than just skin deep.

By far the three most special moments in my life were the births of my three sons Dylan in 1990, Dakota in 1992 and Duke in 1998. Along with my husband, they are the greatest joys of my life.

Getting to do the Rolling Stones’ makeup was huge. It was early in my career and I admit I was a little star struck not to mention that when I arrived on set they were all going through outfit changes!

A mistake I made in 2001 led to one of the brand’s biggest successes. I forgot to bring eye liner to a shoot, so I used mascara to create the same effect, and the concept for Long-Wear Gel Eyeliner was born. It was an instant success. I often thank myself for forgetting my eye liner that day.

Taking the brand to our first international door (Harrods in the UK) in 1994 was amazing. Even more amazing? We’re now available at more than 980 doors in 56 markets worldwide. I almost can’t believe how far we’ve come.

MEMOIR

Mojeh

In 1996, my first book, Bobbi Brown Beauty: The Ultimate Resource landed a spot on the New York Times bestseller list. That success paved the way for me to write five more books over the next 15 years. I love being an author because it gives me another platform to educate my customers and artists.

Photographer Bruce Weber gave me one of my first big breaks on a photo shoot when I was younger – I was the makeup assistant, and when the lead artist didn’t show up, he had me step in. Since then he’s been a mentor and a friend, and I was so humbled in 2008 when he presented me with a Fashion Group International Award. It was such a fun and surreal night.

Image courtesy of Max Whittaker/Getty.

The launch of Bobbi Brown Essentials at Bergdorf Goodman in 1991 was iconic for me, and I remember it like it was yesterday. I sometimes still can’t believe how far the brand has come since that day.

It was a huge honour to be invited to attend President Obama’s inauguration in January 2009. I did Dr. Jill Biden’s makeup for the occasion and I got to ride in the Presidential motorcade and sit up on the platform behind the President during his address what a thrill.

I’ve appeared on Oprah more than 15 times and every one of those appearances was unforgettable. My favourite experience was doing Oprah’s “Biggest, Best and Last” makeover show just a couple of weeks before the show ended. I worked with Michael Kors and hairstylist Orlando Pita to turn four Chicago policewomen from pretty to pretty powerful.

MEMOIR

Mojeh

Bobbi and celebrity friend Rachel Bilson

I’ve worked with a lot of celebrities, but a few really stand out: Brooke Shields, Susan Sarandon and Meryl Streep. They’re inspiring because they radiate natural confidence and effortless glamour, which is what my definition of real beauty is all about.

In early 2006, after a fire at our headquarters in Soho, I wound up holding team meetings in a sprawling auto garage turned loft space in my hometown of Montclair, New Jersey. Later that year it was transformed into the Bobbi Brown Studio, featuring the brand’s first-ever free standing store and training space for artists and customers as well as a large studio for editorial shoots. It was and still is an instant success.

Working at New York Fashion Week over the years has provided a series of great moments. I love the creative process of working with designers and helping to translate their vision into a beautiful makeup look. Some of my favourite collaborations have been Rachel Roy, Halston, Tory Burch, J. Mendel and Tibi.

Ever since I saw Ali MacGraw in Love Story as a teenager she’s been my beauty icon. On my 50th birthday, I got a surprise phone call from her telling me that she was a huge fan and had been wearing my makeup for years. It was an amazing moment.

I was beyond excited when I was asked to be the official beauty editor of The Today Show. I couldn’t believe I was going to be a regular guest on one of my favourite TV shows.

Image courtesy of JP Laffont/Sygma/Corbis, Ian Benjamin/Retna Ltd./Corbis.

Because I had always said my brand wasn’t for sale, selling to The Estee Lauder Companies in 1995 was a huge moment. It was one of the best decisions I ever made because I got to keep creative control of the brand, and I also got access to amazing resources that I wouldn’t have had otherwise. Thank you, Leonard Lauder.

MEMOIR

Mojeh I travelled to China for the first time in 2010 and loved meeting my team there as well as so many loyal fans and customers. While visiting the Great Wall, I saw someone using a Bobbi Brown lip gloss and we started chatting. How cool is that?

The time I’ve spent and the friendships I’ve made at Jane Addams High School for Academic Careers in the Bronx have been so special to me. The students have and continue to inspire me in so many ways.

The launch of the Pretty Powerful campaign was so special because it represents everything that I believe about beauty, confidence and empowering women. I especially loved walking around New York and seeing all the billboards, taxi tops and phone kiosks with inspiring before-and-after images.

As part of the brand’s 20-year celebration, I co-hosted the Dress for Success 2011 gala with my Brand President Maureen Case. Everyone had an amazing time at the Caribbeanthemed party and most importantly, we raised a lot of money and awareness for a cause that’s so close to my heart.

Belles

Society

Celebrated Woman in Society:

Shirley Elghanian Inspiration can come in any shape or form. For the founder of Magic of Persia, Shirley Elghanian, the strength and artistic endeavours of her home country Iran encouraged her to better the world of others through her artsbased charity. In turn, the woman before us has herself become a great figure of inspiration for the people whose lives she’s touched.

hirley Elghanian was born in Iran and has since lived between the Middle East, London and New York. She graduated from George Washington University and in 2004, she set up The Magic of Persia, a UK-based charity that nurtures and develops Iranian cultural practitioners of the arts. At the heart of the charity is the mission to provide much-needed opportunities for talented individuals both inside and outside of Iran. The charity’s first event six years ago raised over 250,000 GBP and gave the enterprise the recognition it deserves. Since then, it has set up 25 free educational workshops and continues to partner with leading institutions such as The British Museum, The Victoria & Albert Museum, Christie’s and the Saatchi Gallery. Amongst its many accomplishments are the university scholarships and residency programmes it offers for talented young artists. Most importantly, through the work of Shirley and her team, young people internationally are discovering art, the Persian heritage and a passion for life. The story of Shirley Elghanian and The Magic of Persia is undoubtedly a tale worth telling.

Images courtesy of: Isaac Strang

Shirley with Yasmine and Alexandra from the Magic of Persia team

AL QASR +971 4 4243892

BURJ AL ARAB +971 4 3483131

ZABEEL SARAY +971 4 4357558

Belles

Images courtesy of: Saven Chadha

Society

British Museum Family Weekend 2010

Magic of Persia fundraiser in Abu Dhabi

You initially began the charity as a way to encourage your son and daughter to connect with their heritage. What benefits do you feel can be gained by a young person of any background discovering their culture?

For any young person to truly discover him or herself and be able to communicate effectively with others, it is vital that they know where they come from. For example, the hospitality and generosity that is embedded in Persian culture cannot be learned or acquired – it is inherited. I wanted my children to continue down the same path.

What challenges did you face in setting up the charity?

My vision was for everything to be seamless, which required more funding and manpower than the charity could afford in its early days. We needed to show what we were capable of doing before we could attract ongoing partnerships and sponsorship. Subsequently, I took on the financial burden myself for the first five years. It was well worth it once we received the desired support from the community.

Why did you feel that it was so important to support the young arts in particular?

Shirley, British Museum Family Weekend 2009

The unique vision of the young artists that we work with on a daily basis contributes to a global dialogue, which is vital in promoting Persian culture and bringing about a positive change.

The Magic of Persia organises art initiatives for schools and families. In what ways have you witnessed art uniting people?

The Magic of Persia Family Weekends, organised in conjunction with the Victoria & Albert Museum and the British Museum, have brought together Iranian families from across London as well as established an international community that comes together to learn about Persian art, music, food, literature, and theatre. In addition to this we have organised a number

Belles

When we had our first fundraising auction, the response to our cause from the Iranian community was so overwhelmingly positive that I knew the presence of Magic of Persia was much needed in London. It was the support shown by the Iranian diaspora that paved the way for the charity to become as big as it is today.

of ongoing workshops at the British Museum, which provide school children with an opportunity to learn about the Persian Empire. These initiatives aim not only to educate but also to create an interactive crosscultural communication.

Society

Magic of Persia is a wonderful charity. Did you imagine it would become such a well-supported success?

How does the Magic of Persia help people from all across the world discover Persian culture?

The unique contribution that Persian culture has made to society must not be overlooked. The Cyrus Cylinder has always been an inspiration to me with regards to its message of equality and freedom. The charity tries to bring this rich heritage to the attention of the global community. It has never been more necessary to highlight the positive aspects of our culture and all that it has to contribute to the world at large.

You run the charity from your home in London. What simple day-to-day joys do you gain from your job?

Truthfully, the best part of working from my home is being around the dining table where we all gather with our laptops to brainstorm as well as entertain the artists, filmmakers and musicians with whom we collaborate. It is the empathy and compassion of all of the women who work at Magic of Persia that allows the charity to go from strength to strength. Someone once described the young and highachieving women on my team as ‘Shirley’s Angels.’

What plans do you have for the future of Magic of Persia?

I want the charity to have a life of its own – to run as efficiently and energetically as it does today, with or without my presence. The charity has grown tremendously in the past few years and has only scratched the surface of what we can achieve. At this point we can really sense, through the partnerships that we have made, that there are opportunities on the horizon which are much greater than anything I had ever envisaged.

How can we participate in the charity?

Certainly one of the most important ways to understand and appreciate the charity is to attend its functions and thus support its long-term vision of continuing this positive dialogue between the East and West. I really feel that every single individual who shows interest in our mission has a valuable contribution to make.

insider

Style

My Stylish Life

Dalia Dogmoch, Co-Founder of Kitsch and Kitsch Cupcakes

alia founded Kitsch as the first boutique in the region where women could mix designer shopping with cupcake dining. The widely loved concept is now a favourite everywhere and Dalia is the perfect advocate for her brand. A wife and new mother, she also loves to cook and has her own blog and section on BBC food. Dalia has a very natural eye for fashion and continually manages to look fresh and amazing!

insider

Style 2

Is there a motto you live by? Since I gave birth a couple of months ago, my view on life has completely

changed. I realised how quickly time is going by and that we shouldn’t worry about the small things. Life is simply too short! | What is your secret weapon? The strength my family and friends give me. I feel I can achieve anything with their support | What can’t money buy? Love, simply. Unfortunately we live in a region where material things matter more than they should, and often, true love falls through the cracks | Your addiction? Food, glorious food! | Cannot live without? Cheese and chocolate | Favourite meal? Breakfast for sure. It’s the small things that put a smile on my face.

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sister told me that I was Snow White. You can imagine how delighted I was to discover that as a five-yearold! | Favourite place in the world: My kitchen | Beauty essentials: I love Lancôme mascara. Clinique powder. Bobbi Brown lip gloss | Shampoo: Dove | Hair styling product: Soufflé by Label.m | Moisturiser: Kiehl’s Ultra facial cream | Perfume: Won’t tell

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How would you describe your style? Style is a reflection of you. I like to wear things that look good, but are also comfortable | Your last purchase: Bottega Veneta heels | What do you consider wardrobe staples? Black cardigan, white tank top, boyfriend jeans, pair of fun-coloured sneakers or heels, and I can’t live without my sunglasses | Favourite designers: Stella McCartney | Luggage: Tumi/Lancel | Jeans: My Lovely Jeans by Zoe | Shirt: Eva Assali. The designer used to work with us at Kitsch and now has set up her own line of shirts. (Dalia wears it) | Day bag: YSL in electric blue | Sun/optical glasses: Dita. I am obsessed with sunglasses and am that silly person who wears them whether the sun is out or not! 1. Blueberry muffins | 2. Four cheese hearts | 3. Chocolate | 4. Bottega Veneta | 5. Stella McCartney | 6. Kiehl’s, Ultra facial cream | 7. Clinique, True bronze pressed powder bronzer | 8. Dove, Daily care shampoo | 9. Lancome, Hypnose doll lashes mascara | 10. Label.M, Souffle | 11. Lancel, Grand hotel travel bag | 12. Mother Denim | 13. Victoria Beckham, Tank top | 14. Dita, Seraph sunglasses | 15. YSL, Cabas Chyc bag

Photographed by Altamash Urooj Santana, www.altamashurooj.com

From left to right images courtesy of: Palmer, Georgina/the food passionates/Corbis, Sultan/photocuisine/Corbis, Tetra Images/Corbis.

Favourite book: Ou est-tu? By Marc Levy | Favourite music artist: Lenny Kravitz | Favourite movie and fairytale: When Harry Met Sally; Snow White. I had the same haircut when I was younger so my older

insider

Style

My Stylish Life

Cedric Toussaint, General Manager of La Petite Maison in Dubai’s DIFC

edric was born and raised in France and maintains a simple but stylish panache in both his fashion and lifestyle choices. He began his career with Gordon Ramsey in London’s Savoy Grill before moving on to Harvey Nichols and then later to La Petite Maison. Now a permanent Dubai resident, Cedric’s motto for life is: ‘Live in the moment. Learn from the past. Build the future.’

insider

Style

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Personal Best advice someone gave you: Don’t

care what others think of you. Follow your dreams and always be proud of what you do | What is you secret weapon? French charm. Diplomacy | What can’t money buy? The sense of achievement | Your addiction/vice: Adrenaline sports | What did you want to become as a child? A surfer or explorer | Cannot live without? Those who I love | Favourite meal: Sushi and Pasta.

Your style icon: Tom Ford | Favourite art: Botero’s sculptures | Favourite discovery: Ashrams in India | Favourite music artist: AC/DC and Kings of Leon | Favourite place in the world: My home. 11

Style 12

How would you describe your style? 5 Simple, fashionable and chic | Your last purchase: Light blue blazer from Zadig & Voltaire | What do you consider wardrobe staples? A pair of Converse,

1. Sushi | 2. TRESemme, Nourishing moisture shampoo | 3. Fernando Botero, ‘Woman Sitting’ sculpture

Photographed by Altamash Urooj Santana, www.altamashurooj.com

From top to bottom images courtesy of: Reavell, W./the food passionates/Corbis, Christie’s Images/CORBIS, Martyn Goddard/Corbis, Scott Heavey/Getty, Pascal Le Segretain/Getty.

Inspirations

Craig McLean / The Sunday Telegraph / The Interview People, Image courtesy of Jason Merritt/Getty.

Interview

Society

Interview

Society

A Pocketful of Poésy

From left to right image courtesy of: Stephane Cardinale/People Avenue/Corbis, all other images by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty.

Thoughtful and beautiful, actress Clémence Poésy is the quintessential French woman making her the perfect muse for Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel, Nicolas Ghesquière at Balenciaga and a constant front row favourite. Looks aside, her acting is endearingly seamless and through roles on TV and film, her ethereal French attitude has charmed the world. MOJEH meets une femme sérieuse in the midst of filming for her new role in the drama Birdsong.

Clemence and Karl Lagerfeld

Clemence at Chanel

Clemence and Leighton Meester front row

Interview

Society

n a slightly sad trailer-cum-caravan in a woodland park on the outskirts of Budapest, Clémence Poésy wrinkles her nose. ‘There’s a weird smell,’ says the 29-year-old French actress in her nigh-on perfect English. ‘Or is that just me?’ It could indeed – and that’s meant in the politest possible sense – be her. On this rainy summer’s day on the set of the British BBC drama Birdsong, Poésy is dressed in a beautiful, floor-length cream gown. At almost 100 years old and sourced in Paris, it’s not so much vintage as archaeological. It is also spot-on for the role Poésy is playing: Isabelle Azaire, a refined French gentlewoman of Amiens in 1910. The mud, blood and horror of the First World War forms the other narrative half of this two-part, three-hour adaptation of Sebastian Faulks’s novel about a war-torn romance. In the acting world, Poésy is most often recognised for playing Fleur Delacour in three Harry Potter films and for her role in the thriller In Bruges, opposite Colin Farrell, but she retains a very French love of high culture. Her mother, a teacher, and her father, a theatre director, immersed her and her younger sister, Maëlle (also an actress), in the arts from an early age. ‘They’ve always taught us to choose what we were going to see – hence no TV at home when we were kids.’ In the society world however, Poésy is most recognised for being enduringly stylish. The same lifetime immersed in high-culture resonates into a style that encourages sophistication and character, complete with a charming notion of girly voyage. It came as no shock then when Poésy appeared on one of TV’s most designer-clad shows, Gossip Girl – although she squirms at the mention of her brief guest role. She’d just finished filming Danny Boyle’s 127 Hours and was about to start shooting Jeanne Captive, in which she plays Joan of Arc. She thought, ‘It’s going to be nice to have something light in between…but sometimes

you make decisions and then you’re like, “what?”’ Her voice drops off. ‘I just wondered why I was there. I should have thought it through a bit before!’ But all that’s a long way from the trauma of Birdsong. Poésy adopts a graceful, pensive pose as she considers her character. ‘I think Isabelle tries – probably because she lacks something in her life, she’s not very happy – to make everything very beautiful. She has a sense of aesthetics. There’s a quote from the novel that says she gave off the sense of “having not merely dressed, but dressed up, as though in a costume that suited not the house but some other world she inhabited in her mind.” That was a good note on how to play her.’ Birdsong tells the story of Isabelle Azaire and Stephen Wraysford, a young Englishman who visits pre-war Amiens to study the local textile trade. He begins an intense affair with Isabelle, the much younger wife of the upper-middle-class merchant who is his host. Flash forward six years to the carnage of the Somme battlefields, and a battle-scarred Captain Wraysford – played by Eddie Redmayne (who recently starred opposite Michelle Williams in My Week with Marilyn) – is haunted by memories of their illicit, intoxicating, maddening romance. Poésy, now an international star, is conscious of the high-regard in which Birdsong is held and the need to do justice to Isabelle. ‘That kind of passion can all of a sudden make you feel as if you’ve had no idea who you were for a very long time. Isabelle experiences that, then experiences something else when she decides to go away with someone that she realises she doesn’t know at all, once they’re on their own and nothing is forbidden anymore.’ Poésy, who manages to combine radiance with froideur, had plenty of period-drama experience on which to draw from, like playing Mary, Queen of Scots in Gunpowder, Treason & Plot and Queen Isabella in Richard II. ‘Taking the

Poésy adopts a graceful, pensive pose as she considers her character. ‘I think Isabelle tries – probably because she lacks something in her life, she’s not very happy – to make everything very beautiful.’

Image courtesy of Dominique Charriau/Getty.

Interview

Society

Image courtesy of Andreas Rentz/Getty.

Interview

Society

Interview

Society corset off is a big thing. I think there’s something very fresh about opening up a corset because it’s allowing someone to be free in a way.’ That aside, ‘When you take it off and put your jeans on you’re like, “Oh, my God, I’m so lucky that I live in a time where I don’t have to wear this!”’ For that very reason, Poésy is a fashion editor and photographer’s dream. Her blonde hair and blue eyes capsulate bohemian chic, and whilst she is a lot shorter than most of the girls she sits next to on Fashion Week’s front rows, her diminutive frame makes for the perfect clotheshorse. Her style fluctuates between (and at times fuses together) vintage, designer, high-street and, when the occasion calls for it, haute couture. Poésy possesses the rare and innate quality to bend to the rules of whatever society crowd she may fall into, and still look entirely her own. Three months later, in the drawing room of a boutique hotel in east London, we meet Poésy again. Today she’s dressed down in black – jeans, sloppy jumper – but she still (of course) looks effortlessly cool. At last autumn’s Chanel catwalk show in the French capital she was a front-row paparazzi magnet. ‘Weird,’ she says, abashed at being afforded such style kudos. ‘I was actually wearing a dress that had been worn before by Saoirse Ronan, (the teenage Irish star of Hanna). I just loved the dress and I don’t think Saoirse cared. I never hire a stylist,’ she adds. As well as being a fashion pin-up, Poésy is a musician (she plays guitar and sang on last year’s debut album by the Arctic Monkeys associate Miles Kane) and keen artist (she has illustrated her own children’s story). Since completing work on Birdsong in the summer, she’s filmed Mr Morgan’s Last Love with Michael Caine and signed a contract with the jeans brand G-Star to be one of its new faces. As with her previous

fashion projects – a perfume campaign with Chloé and ‘muse’ status for Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel and Nicolas Ghesquière at Balenciaga – Poésy did not want to be just the girl in the picture. ‘You need to be in a mindset that allows you to give something, otherwise it’s really boring,’ she says, tut-tutting. ‘It just becomes about being a clothes hanger, a living puppet. I knew fashion was going to be part of my job, so I thought I might as well have fun with it. I didn’t want people to decide what I was going to wear and what I was going to look like and how I should behave because that can happen really quickly in fashion if you don’t show that you know your stuff. I knew a bit about what Coco Chanel had done for women,’ she continues. ‘She’s a very interesting character, and with Nicolas, I’d seen his work from the beginning in magazines, so I knew what I was getting myself into. He’s a very easy man to talk to.’ Just after the New Year I speak to Abi Morgan, who adapted Birdsong for the screen. ‘Clémence has a wonderful containment, which really suits Isabelle’s character,’ she says. ‘She’s a very sophisticated actress for someone so young.’ That’s a quality that works for Poésy behind the scenes, too. Her experience making Mr Morgan’s Last Love, which she finished at the end of 2011, was a sentiment to that. She and Michael Caine ‘laughed a lot,’ she says. ‘He’s kept a playfulness we should all have, and getting to watch him work every day for two months was the best acting lesson I ever got.’ Mr Morgan lives in Paris, and as Poésy explains, ‘has lost his wife, and doesn’t speak a word of French and then he meets this girl – me. It’s two lonely people meeting each other. What does she do? She takes care of other people but is incapable of taking care of herself.’ Is that anything like Poésy? She smiles. ‘Ah, no. I’m quite good at taking care of myself.’ We don’t doubt it for a second.

As with her previous fashion projects – a perfume campaign with Chloé and ‘muse’ status for Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel and Nicolas Ghesquière at Balenciaga – Poésy did not want to be just the girl in the picture.

Running for Cover, photographed by Tommy Clarke, Issue 5

A Picture Perfect Winter, photographed by Tracey Morris, Issue 5

The Angel of Circeo, photographed by Federico De Angelis, Issue 6

Jewel of the Desert, photographed by Simon Upton, Issue 1

fashion

Paris Blanc Obscure, photographed by Federico De Angelis, Issue 5

Affairs of the Estate, photographed by Federico De Angelis, Issue 4

A Bohemian Rhapsody, photographed by Federico De Angelis, Issue 6

The Faces of Ford, photographed by Tommy Clarke, Issue 4

Week Special

Fashion

Welcome to the New Season! Across the next pages youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll find everything you need for a very fashionable start to summer 2012. In the meantime, here are just a few of our fave shots to open the season!

Week Special

Fashion

Trend

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Broderie Anglaise 1

The traditional fabric has been reprised with delectable and endearing meaning as entire coats and dresses are spun from the cut-out cloth. Keep it simple and choose a piece that shows off the material in its raw version, or look to Dolce&Gabbana and Louis Vuitton for decorative spins.

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Trend 2

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An Aquatic Affair 1

There’s no shelter from the water as sea-inspired designs have become the season’s most coveted trend. We’re touching the precious coral reef at Alexander McQueen and swimming in tranquil sea green waters at Jenny Packham. Dare you dive into the darker waters at Thierry Mugler and Junya Watanabe?

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Trend 2

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Bedtime Stories 1

No longer willing to hide until dark, nightwear has made its way to day as silk and lace gowns and girly bloomers become coveted summer styles. At Bill Blass and Jean Paul Gaultier we saw dressing gowns taking centre stage. Nina Ricci and Temperley London turned nightdresses into perfectly respectable day dresses.

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Trend 2

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jacq in a box 1

It may be a heavy fabric for summer, but thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no denying the opulent and decadent nature of jacquard, making it the perfect material to lift your style status. Better still, designers are working from traditional jacquard prints but on lighter fabrics, making this trend both a winner and a wearer!

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Trend 2

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itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a sheer thing 1

Sheer fabrics are seemingly taking centre stage more and more regularly and for good reason. The light, silky and delicate qualities turn any outfit and its wearer into a romantic dream of which feminine shapes run free in elegant fashions. From daywear to eveningwear, visit your sheer side.

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Trend 2

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The New Stage Girl 1

Flapper girls are having their 15 minutes of 21st century fame with new age interpretations of the 1920s style. Wear it how you want, but designers are offering everything from feathered versions to floor length ethereal takes to short and slinky minimised numbers.

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Trend 2

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Magic Carpet 1

We couldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t help but feel like Aladdin on his magic carpet journey through the streets of Arabia as we moved from one SS show to another. At YSL and Amanda Wakeley delectable kaftans were on display whereas Emilio Pucci recreated the Persian gypsy look and Dolce&Gabbana went for decorative corsets in vivid colour palettes.

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Trend 2

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Superior Sports 1

Relinquish in an opportunity to relax your daywear by upping your leisurewear as designers create luxury sport-inspired style good enough to wear on any occasion but the gym! Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re seeing hoodies made from satin at Victoria Beckham and glamorous takes on bright white tennis attire at Stella McCartney.

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Trend 2

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Playful Prints 1

Fashion should always be fun, and spirited prints have certainly put smiles on our faces. From childish fun with Mickey Mouse at Jean Charles de Castelbajac to a fruit and veggie obsession at Issa and Dolce&Gabbana, pick your prints to suit your mood.

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Trend 2

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Going Global 1

Embrace the world around you and take fashion inspiration from the growing global backdrop. Zebra prints at Holly Fulton and Giambattista Valli roam straight from the Serengeti into your wardrobe, whereas David Koma and Alexander Wang steal from the past with Aztec-inspired prints.

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Trend 2

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Colour

Canary

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Colour 2

10 1. Carolina Herrera |

2. D&G | 3. Aquascutum

| 4. Oscar De La Renta |

5. C N C | 6. Vera Wang | 7.

Nicole Farhi | 8. Sonia

9 6

Rykiel | 9. Issey Miyake | 10. Jason Wu

pop of yellow will uplift even the greyest of days this season. Sing like a canary in these many hues of sunshine.

76 reports

Colour

Poppy

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Colour 5

11 7

1. DKNY | 2. Oscar De La

Renta | 3. Yigal Azrouel

top onlookers in one fail swoop by wearing this seasonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most dramatic colour. Red shows ultimate confidence and inspires others just by wearing it.

| 4. Yigal Azrouel | 5. Kenzo | 6. Miu Miu | 7.

Antonio Berardi | 8. Valentino | 9. Nina

Ricci | 10. Salvatore

Ferragamo | 11. Narciso Rodriguez

Colour

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Candy Pink

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Colour 6

he most feminine colour to add to your wardrobe this summer, pink is undoubtedly girly. If youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re scared of a head-to-toe bubblegum look, try a pink pant as seen at Costume National for office chic.

10 1. Jason Wu | 2. Adam |

3. Jason Wu | 4. Nicole

Farhi | 5. Marni | 6. Jill Stuart | 7. Blugirl | 8. Diesel Black Gold

| 9. Issa | 10. Costume

National | 11. Blacky Dress

Colour

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Tiffany Blue

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Colour 5

10 1. Max Mara | 2.

Roland Mouret | 3.

Emanuel Ungaro | 4.

Jil Sander | 5. Antonio Marras | 6. Roksanda

he colour of everyoneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s favourite little blue box, Tiffany blue is also a refreshing hue to slice through your summer shopping list. Quench your thirst for brights with this ultra chic shade.

Ilincic | 7. Paul

Smith | 8. Francesco Scognamiglio | 9.

Burberry | 10. Acne

82 reports

Colour

Ink

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Colour 3

5 2

1. 3.1 Phillip Lim | 2. Zac Posen | 3. VictoriA

Beckham | 4. Preen | 5. Marc by Marc Jacobs |

ofter than black and more wearable than white, inky hues are the modern girls colour base. Flattering to all skin tones, swapping your basic blacks for moody blues will transform your style.

6. Lacoste | 7. Emanuel Ungaro | 8. Caroline

Charles | 9. Blumarine | 10. Akris | 11. Alexander wang

84 reports

Colour

Metallic

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Colour 2 5

he universal sartorial symbol for a good time, metallics are the ultimate mood elevator. Shine on day and night in slivers of silver and flashes of gold for a look that will get you noticed.

9 1. Giorgio Armani

| 2. Sportmax | 3.

Gianfranco Ferre | 4.

Herve Leger | 5. Haider Ackermann | 6. Giles | 7. Diesel Black Gold | 8.

Chado Ralph Rucci | 9.

Christopher Kane | 10. Badgley Mischka

86 reports

Colour

Sandstone

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Colour 3

4 5

8 6

eutrals get updated for SS12 with sandstone leading the charge. The ultimate in sophistication, wear head-to-toe for a cool and calm ensemble.

10 1. Sportmax | 2.

Dior | 3. Lanvin | 4. Rochas | 5. Issey

Miyake | 6. Costello

Tagliapietra | 7. Doo.Ri | 8. Martin Margiela |

9. Veronique Leroy | 10. Alberta Ferretti

88 reports

Colour

White

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Colour 3

5 2

1. Issa | 2. Dries Van Noten | 3. Dvf | 4.

Andrew GN | 5. Chloe |

6. Aquascutum | 7. Elie Saab | 8. Jil Sander |

he quintessential colour of summer, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no getting away from the freshness of a white outfit. Highlight your glowing skin in the purest colour of the season and watch your spirit lift immediately.

9. Chanel | 10. Sophie Theallet | 11. Celine

trend

Fashion

In the Details Byblos

Oscar de la Renta

Giles

Flyaway Feathers Fashion gets its wings!

Ink Lines

Rulers and biros at the ready?

Balenciaga

Pedro Lourenco

Building Blocks

A game of Jenga turns stylish as panels build the clothes.

Chanel

trend

Fashion

Flower Covered

Plant the seeds now for summer style.

Dolce&Gabbana

Blumarine

Antonio Berardi

Balmain

Fendi

Glamorous Architect Horizontal lines and vertical drops built from sequins, studs and shells.

Colossal Corsages

Tory Burch

DVF

Will you be my date to the prom?

Diamond Dreams

Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be afraid to shine in playful gems, diamonds and sequins.

Ruffian

Prabal Gurung

Christian Siriano

Chiffon Floras

Nowâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the time to get girly with flower beds sown in chiffon.

Week Special

Fashion

Spotted at New York Fashion Week SS12 T

he shows in New York are a style hub for the weird, the wonderful, the beautiful and the divine, for the city that never sleeps is also never scared to break the mould and mix things up a little. Where in Paris you will find the refined and polished, and in London the young and creative, New York is the place where heritage clashes with risk and out of the explosion walks an unmatchable sense of fun, freedom and vigour. Throughout the week we scouted the shows and streets to bring you the best in panache, attitude and cool factor!

AVAILABLE AT DUBAIL MALL. TOMFORD.COM

Pencil Me In

peter som

Go sexy and slinky this season.

band of outsiders

Fashion

In true New York style, the soundtrack to the shows was fresh, alternative and very hip. We heard “Ritual Union” by Little Dragon at Richard Chai, “Midnight City” by M83 at Cynthia Rowley and “Forget It” by Blood Orange at Derek Lam. Speaking of music, how cool is last season’s Dolce&Gabbana key notes clutch spotted outside the shows?

adam

Week Special

Updating the MP3

rodARTe

zac posen

The Mulleavy sisters took us back to the beautiful days of Van Gogh.

Blackout

The eyes are the gateway to the soul? Not if you can’t see them!

Advanced Style victoria beckham

You’re never too old to put on a dress, a hat, some stripy socks and strut yourself around the Big Apple.

Week Special

Kiss Me

Fashion

Backstage at Prabal Gurung, Lindsey Wixson mesmerised us with lips that looked as though they’d just taken a succulent bite of a berry. Practice the blended trend with two shades from the pink and purple lipstick family.

Running for Joy

sisley, Phyto-lip shine lipstick in Fuchsia

Tom Ford, Lipstick in Violet Fatale

Young designer Alexander Wang charmed his audience by taking a jubilant run on the catwalk as opposed to the traditional walk and bow. We love designers who break the mould!

Must-Have

Oscar de la Renta’s Cara clutch is at the top of our summer wish lists.

Summer Wedges

It’s a tall order at Ralph Lauren as 5-inch wedges make a comeback for the season.

Le Baron

For those still standing after a gruelling day of shows, Le Baron on 444 West 13th Street is always the place to be and be seen.

Week Special

Diamond Dannijo Girl

cynthia rowley

Fashion

Jewellery designer Danielle Snyder shows off her own line just as well as any model can.

Pretty Petals

Fashionistaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s chose feminine and floral dresses to standout on the sidewalks.

The Hole Truth

Gangster style mesh ran riot across many collections.

rag and bone

diesel black gold

Laidback Ladies

Only a New Yorker can mix high tops with high-style and still look so damn cool.

BFFs!

Solange and Beyonce Knowles front row at Rodarte, and Carine Roitfeld and Julia RestoinRoitfeld side by side at Alexander Wang. Anna Wintour and Nicki Minaj are however a completely paradoxical pair but loved all the same!

marc by marc jacobs

Week Special

Fashion

Make Up For Ever, Graphic Glitters in Crystal colour

Rock, PAPER, Scissors, Stone

Martin Margiela’s paper shoes still stand out in the fashion crowds.

Dolce&Gabbana, Intense nail colour in True white

Angel Eyes

The Famous Mercer Hotel

Alexandre Herchcovitch showed us how to go white and sparkly for spring.

Even in the city that never sleeps we still need a place to rest our eyes and the Band of Outsiders only spurred our longing for a pyjama day.

You Can Leave Your Socks On

thom browne

betsey johnson

Betsey Johnson, Anna Sui and Thom Browne give socks with heels a fashion thumbs up.

anna sui

Got the Moves like Jagger? Rock royalty hanging out at the L’Wren Scott show.

Week Special

Why So Serious?!

Fashion

Models fooled around outside the shows, reminding us of the fun that surrounds Fashion Week.

The Word on the Streets is Céline

gant

Last season’s ‘it’ bag is still standing strong with the New York model army.

EYE Heart You

derek lam

AMorir

L’Wren Scott

Show that look of love with heart-shaped sunnies as seen at L’Wren Scott and Gant.

Gangs of New York

Oscar de la Renta

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diesel black

Valentino

gold

marc jacobs

Margherita Missoni

There’s no rivalry here, as Valentino and Oscar de la Renta were spotted supporting Diane Von Furstenberg, and Margherita Missoni at Charlotte Ronson.

Inside Collar

Bosses be warned, traditional corporate attire is in hiding for the season.

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Blogger

MOJEH 2012 Blogger Report Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve turned the tables and placed bloggers under the spotlight. Whoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s taking over our surf time this season? By Kelly Baldwin

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Blogger

Judith Van Den Hoek

Judith Van Den Hoek Sketching to Perfection

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ashion has many faces and Dutch Illustrator Judith Van den hoek beautifully presents us with a clean and powerful depiction of style. Using her self-titled blog as a platform to show her talent to the world, Judith takes inspiration from both seasonal and timeless fashion and encapsulates them using felt-pen and paint onto paper. ‘Drawing is something that runs in my family and as a child I was already playing with it. At the age of 17 I discovered fashion, so I began to explore that world,’ says Judith. The illustrations are carefully planned out and shed a minimalist yet provocative light on designs by our most adored fashion houses. ‘When I see something that inspires me, I have to make an illustration of it. I start collecting things like different models and poses to turn into sketches,’ says Judith, ‘the thing I enjoy the most is playing with the illustration by increasing or reducing aspects of the look.’ Something new is found in each of Judith’s pieces in which she leads your eye towards a detail which may have otherwise been left undiscovered in its 3D form: the print of a jacket, the svelte and swooping shape of a dress or the strict horizontal line of a trouser suit. Her work is particularly enjoyed for its rare and invigorating splashes of bright, eye-catching colour, reminiscent of the famous artist René Gruau, whom Judith references as one of her favourites. Judith’s next big step was a collaboration with the designer Jason Wu and American fashion store Target, which was unveiled earlier this year to huge success. So keep tuning into her blog for regular fashion inspiration in a not-so-obvious form. ‘There’s a feeling that I get when I spot the right kind of dress or accessory. I get so excited and I just need to put it on paper,’ says Judith, ‘I think it’s something that I can’t let go of and will do for my whole life.’

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Blogger

Judith takes inspiration from both seasonal and timeless fashion and encapsulates them using felt-pen and paint onto paper.

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Blogger

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Blogger

Her work is particularly enjoyed for its rare and invigorating splashes of bright, eyecatching colour, reminiscent of the famous artist RenĂŠ Gruau.

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Blogger

4 and Bleeker th

Model Behaviour

ith a blog tag line like ‘Talk to me Baby!’, we couldn’t help but be completely drawn to Australian model Alexandra Berry-Spencer. Talking to Alexandra takes you on a whirlwind tour of every desirable destination in the world with some impeccable and achingly cool style choices to match. ‘I live between Sydney, London and Los Angeles so I am always traveling to places nearby. When in Sydney I travel to Bali and Thailand, when in London it’s Europe,’ says the fashion blogger, ‘In LA I go from the East to West Coast and love visiting the Bahamas. But my favourite place is Rio in Brazil, it’s so addictive!’ Subsequently, so is her blog. Alexandra epitomises bohemian bliss – and even though her work never stops behind the scenes - on screen her blog presents a life of freedom and treasure, reminding us to take a second, breathe and enjoy. Not to mention her weekly style choices that mix designer with vintage, show some skin, flash some diamond and make beach living look pretty damn hot – a perfect inspiration for the Middle Eastern sun. ‘Summer is my favourite time of the year, always summer! I follow Céline for its prints and colour blocking, Balenciaga for its tailoring and leather goods and Stella McCartney for outerwear,’ she says. Alexandra’s rules for beach style? ‘I think a simple black string bikini and large black cat eye glasses with pulled back hair and a thin gold chain is the easiest way to look chic poolside...and sunscreen!’

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But her days aren’t always spent island hopping. Alexandra’s angelic aura makes her a firm favourite among design houses – leaving 4th and Bleeker a hotspot for sneak peaks and behind the scenes – and her event style induces envy throughout. ‘I like to make it really easy for myself. Black is good because it’s never under or overdressed and you don’t have to worry about spilling anything,’ she says, ‘a great blow dry and clean make-up give that nonchalant look…and then a Cartier love bangle will go with anything!’ Visit 4th and Bleeker for some razzle-dazzle and prepare for an inspiring picture of perfection.

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Blogger

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Blogger

Street FSN S

The Word on the Street

ince when did street style become just as exciting, just as covetable and just as captured as the catwalk? Since blogger extraordinaires such as Scott Schuman of The Sartorialist and Tommy Ton of Jak&Jil decided to take over our surf time with brilliantly addictive moments of style straight from the well-worn streets of London, Paris, New York and anywhere else taste is to be found. The latest photographer exposing our ‘off-duty’ outfits (which have systematically become more ‘on-duty’ due to the blogger slideshow) is Korean-born Hyun-Beom Nam. ‘True selfexpression catches my eye. Fashion should describe someone, who they are, their character, their confidence, their understanding of themselves,’ he says, ‘I love to describe a unique situation in fashion with a fresh angle.’ Nam has an astute eye for picking out the picturesque. His moments are well-crafted and leave you looking until every aspect of the image has been grasped and interpreted in its own way. Both fashion and personality play the biggest role as the lenses lean towards either a fabulous print, a distinctive shape or a charismatic person. ‘Hanne Gaby is my favourite model. She has such an unexpected style but it always works. She plays with fashion and it always comes out really beautiful, harmonious and stylish,’ he says. Nam has an eye as good as an editor’s making StreetFSN a morethan-worthy platform for picking your styles. ‘Mix matched patterns are huge for spring summer – stripes, checks, florals, polka, animal prints… anything that looks surprisingly great together,’ he offers. You can catch Nam in and outside the shows at all fashion weeks, but like everyone he has his favourites. ‘Absolutely Paris. There are so many big shows and the atmosphere brings more people together,’ he says, ‘Givenchy creates the best buzz; I am always surprised and get such fresh ideas.’ There you have it – if you have the desire (and panache) to appear on one of today’s most persuasive blogs, you know where to strut your stuff.

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Blogger New York style

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Models off-duty

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Blogger Marni prints

Stylish transportation

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Blogger

Candice Swanepoel

Brad Goreski

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Blogger Strutting the street way

Givenchy

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Magazine Bimonthly IN YOUR HANDS.

COM Daily AT YOUR FINGERTIPS.

Wa n t m o re ? L i k e u s o n F a c e b o o k , f o l l o w u s o n Tw i t t e r, o r g e t a t a t o o !

banquet

Fashion

Blooming Lovely

pring has sprung and flowers are popping up all over our wardrobes. Take inspiration from bouquets of florals on everything from these drop earrings from Bochic, a full pink Marc Jacobs skirt and poppy print espadrilles by Paul Smith. For individual touches of beautiful blooms, a Carolina Herrera scarf is an easy addition to any outfit. Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re very partial to these floral A-morir frames with a rose tint perfect for seeing the world through.

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Mint Condition

ry a refreshing pop of mint in your summer wardrobe for a quaint take on pastels this season. These faded Current/Elliott jeans and Nicholas Kirkwood flats kick started our love of all things peppermint coloured. A fab printed Marni tote and Missoni bikini are great examples of minty hues working well with other colours. For a real pop of colour try this Ferragamo belt with a sea horse charm or this bright YSL ring and see if your style doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t seem instantly fresher with a hint of mint.

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Desperate Housewives

ime was when the good little housewife would stay at home, bake and sew and tend to nothing but her family. Thankfully, as modern women we can put ourselves first dressing the part of the perfect partner. A nipped-in waspish waist is essential to this sweet as sugar look. Nina Ricciâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bustier dress topped off with Carolina Herreraâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tweed jacket is simple but effective. A ladylike handbag from Moschino and Louis Vuitton pearls finish the look.

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9&10. ch by carolina herrera | 11. hermes | 12. oscar de la renta | 13. Valentino | 14. oscar de la renta

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Eastern Evenings

roving that conservative is beautiful, these fabulous full-length gowns are a perfect addition to any summer wardrobe. From sky blue at Issa to peach perfection at Toujouri, a floor-sweeping option is the easiest dress to wear this summer. Glamour comes in the form of embellished clutches and glittering jewels. Marchesa and Alexis Bittar are sure to offer more than a few of our new favourite accessories.

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9. wafa saifi at Soiree Boutique | 10. andrew gn @ Boutique1.com | 11&12. salvatore ferragamo | 13. marchesa at Saks Fifth Avenue | 14. camilla skovgaard

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Rising from the Deep Givenchy Spring/Summer 2012

n the back of a hugely successful autumn/ winter collection, all eyes were on Tisci to deliver another knockout season. He began by enlisting the world’s greatest knockouts to walk, which included Natalia, Karolina, Natasha, and the incomparable Gisele. Tisci claimed mermaids and surfers as influences, continuing the water theme of this year’s collections. However you won’t find shell motifs and seahorses in this slick collection. Trimming was not in leather but eel skin, shark, or stingray with oversized shark teeth decorating necklaces and heels. Tailoring was the order of the day as each design curved and moved on the body aided by ruffles, sheer layers and soft peplums. The opening

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section showed wet suit-like cropped trousers – a second skin on the gorgeous tawny models. Special Givenchy touches came in chiffon sequins and laser cut-out leather jackets in glistening black. Waves of fabrics rippled over body conscious designs drawing attention to the models lithe figures and oozing an undercurrent of desire. Headto-toe sequins evoked a mermaid feel near the close of the show with the short dresses sure to be seen on more than a few red carpets this season. Exotic touches came in trims and full on dresses in sea skins for heightened staples of the season. This may be Tisci’s most commercially accessible collection so far and will surely only add further star power to the designer of the moment.

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Echoes of Art Deco GUCCI Spring/Summer 2012

ucci celebrated its 91st birthday this year and in true Giannini style, head designer Frida looked to the 1920s, the year Gucci started trading, for influence. Specifically, Giannini was taken with the American Jazz Age, a world away from 1920s Florence where the Italian powerhouse was born. The ’20s were seen on many a runway this season, however only Gucci showed a geometric strength through streamlined shapes and androgynous lines. Influenced by ‘the women of that time who caused a sensation – Nancy Cunard, Louise Brooks,’ Giannini gave an alluring presentation of flapper girl-meetsart deco in a show glittering with strong colour blocking and sequined fringing. Black, white and bronze fringed evening dresses got their graphic print

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from New York skyscrapers, another ’20s influence Giannini picked up on that other designers didn’t. Looks encrusted with beads glistened on the runway, defying logic as they swung light as air to the model’s gait. Seemingly endless incarnations of short gleaming metallic jackets over tapered black trousers brought things bang up to date for the career women of the 21st century. A new era of power proportions belied what Giannini described as ‘Hard Deco’ with peaked shoulders on jackets and buttoned ankles. Some key Gucci motifs remained, such as graphic equestrian prints and enamel tiger heads, but over all the collection felt more sensual and flowing than previous seasons.

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Waves of Perfection Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2012

he ever-present water theme was realised by Sarah Burton at McQueen in a truly decadent manner this season. Obsessively detailed and opulent, these pieces were real treasures from the deep. Victorian shapes kept the McQueen woman feeling powerful in what has been construed by many designers this year as dress up. Raised waists were paramount with a strong focus on the hourglass shape of the female frame. The Gaudi influence was strong with each piece showcasing the curves and waves of art nouveau through layers of frayed tulle on skirts and peplums. Pleating was based on anatomical shapes that appeared haphazard and organic, with waves of chiffon cut in mother of pearl print formed to look like shells. A particular highlight was the series of

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anemone dresses that used hundreds of hand cut circles in apricot tones to create a full skirt and reams of beads and sequins to form an art nouveau bodice. Undulating ruffles that moved as the models walked – made to mimic jellyfish moving through water – were symptomatic of the level of detail put forth by Burton and her team. Intricately weaved lace caps covered the girls’ faces, another dramatic element only the McQueen woman could pull off. Feathers too were used in a theatrical manner, manipulated to fit onto the body like a second skin. A prim palette of corals, blues and sands got a McQueen slice of glossy black through darker influences of wrought lace resembling seaweed tendrils – a symbol to many of the spirit of Lee living on through his legacy left in the very capable hands of Sarah Burton.

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Fit for a Starlet naeem khan Spring/Summer 2012

he finale show in New York, Naeem Khan ended with a decadent line up. Taking inspiration from Ava Gardner and Edith Head, the famed costume designer, Khan’s collection was perfect for the Hollywood starlets who have come to love him including Taylor Swift and Eva Longoria. Exotic cocoon shapes and long sleeved gowns were plentiful, perfect for summer lounging on yachts as the case may be for many of Khan’s clients. Subdued florals gave a sophisticated edge to proceedings – a fresh contrast from the electric brights seen on many a runway this season. Silver touches added glisten to elegant column

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gowns in black and silver adorned with statement necklaces for languid glamour. Colour came in sophisticated oranges and raspberry, accented with that same metallic flourish cherished by the Indian-born designer. Flesh was plentiful with scoop-backed gowns and thigh-high splits frequently sent down the gilded catwalk. The final parade of evening gowns saw glitz upon glitz as feathers, sequins and florals melded together sure to delight Hollywood’s A-list. A section of full skirted short dresses seemed destined for young actresses like Elle Fanning and Chloë Moretz, a perfect transition for the designer who year upon year sees his fan base grow.

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Prairie Storms Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2012

dark and thought-inducing end to Milan Fashion Week came in the form of the Miu Miu runway. Models were pale with dark greased hair and graphic red eyeliner, morphing the normally youthful Miu Miu girl into a moody adolescent. Miuccia Pradaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s palette was a sombre affair with stormy greys and icy blues toning down midriff baring bra tops, a plentiful trend for the season. The tailoring was on point with full-sleeved blouses and bustier pleated dresses taking centre stage. There was an air of Prairie dressing through the full skirts, patchwork floral and embroidered folksy patterns. Lace was a common

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denominator as the collection progressed with coloured overlays, coats and capes standing out as Miu Miu summer staples. In fact, capes in all manner of lengths added a dark fairytale touch to the proceedings. Think Red Riding Hood or Snow White defying their parents and going out for a night on the tiles together in combined insolence. The overriding shape from Miu Miu remained A-line, a universally flattering cut that is sure to delight brand devotees. Compact day bags and bright pointy-toed cowboy boots are sure to be street style icons in the coming months as are the beautiful coats that will look chic for seasons to come worn open or closed with an oversized bow.

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Sophisticated Sorbets 3.1 PHILLIP LIM Spring/Summer 2012

n a season full of patterns, prints and clashing colours, Phillip Lim took a refreshing turn on the catwalk. In a collection filled with pastel hues and refined sporty separates, the New York show season was lifted to new heights under Lim’s spring/summer aesthetic. The Orange County native drew influences from kites he crafted by hand during his childhood. Strips of fabric were sandwiched onto shirts, with loose edges left flapping behind the models like tails. Fluid wearable silhouettes took centre stage with tuxedo trousers in macaron hues appearing as a runway staple. ‘An evolution of working with geometry and athleticism, the Spring 2012 collection concentrates

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on the freedom and fragility of kites,’ said Lim. ‘The geometry of kite tails captured between layers of chiffon echo the notions of frame work and structure.’ Elegance wasn’t lost in Lim’s casual approach, however, with sheer tops paired with slightly oversized shorts or skirts. The whole show was a lesson in effortless dressing, perfect for the modern shopper. Sportiness became refined and architectural with the pull of a zipper as some outerwear pieces morphed into bags and totes. A gorgeously calm yet uplifting palette acted as a cleanser for a season that seemed awash with trends. We can’t wait to inject some pistachio, lemon and raspberry into our wardrobes this season.

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All that Glitters Roberto Cavalli Spring/Summer 2012

n celebration of his 40th anniversary, Roberto Cavalli dazzled the fashion community as only he could. A collective gasp was heard as Karmen Pedaru took her first steps on the runway, blinding the front row with a golden jacket and flapper skirt of unparalleled opulence. In recent years the gleam had worn off a once triumphant Cavalli with the fashion community migrating to clean, modern, wearable designers over his, at times, showy pieces. No more. This show was a return to form and a return to GLAMOUR. Evening dressing was the focus with a host of tuxedo jackets and trousers in black, gold and a bright floral print for summer. The â&#x20AC;&#x2122;20s influence was also felt on

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this Milanese runway with flapper skirts and drop waist dresses showered with golden palettes. Sparkle was also used as a trim on the floor-sweeping gowns that revealed floral and animal prints in classic Cavalli style. There was an air of lightness in the designerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s approach this season with an overall cleaner aesthetic best showcased in a cream tux with a sheer beaded top swapped in for a traditional shirt. A couture-like touch was highly evident in the sheer and heavily beaded evening gowns. They moved like air and had more than one front row stylist rushing backstage to reserve them for the upcoming awards season. Forty years strong, Cavalli was surely the gold medal winner of the season.

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Career Colour Matthew Williamson Spring/Summer 2012

atthew Williamson began his line designing for his disco-loving friends who needed some great dancing dresses for Ibiza. Sienna Miller, Jade Jagger et al. helped him rise to fame and since then Williamson has been the go-to-guy for fabulously flirty and colourful dresses for any occasion. This season however Matthew has ditched the island-hopping party girl and instead has created ‘a wardrobe for a woman wherever she may be.’ Indeed the collection could be described as the perfect modern woman’s wardrobe, as long as she loves colour of course. Colour plays, and has always played, a pivotal role in any Matthew Williamson collection. This season colour blocking and clashing

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emerged in every look. Red and pink, yellow with beige and electric blue and tangerine all played off each other dramatically. Prints came in the form of digitised Japanese blossoms, unfurling in pretty blouses, cocktail dresses and flowing gowns flashing miles of tawny limbs. A delicate floral print by Williamson’s standards and further proof of his new subdued aesthetic. The shirtdress appeared in many forms catering to the busy career girl. Most were worn underneath brilliantly bright suit jackets – a summer staple dictated by this season’s runways. Evening dresses came adorned with showgirl-like ostrich feathers for a touch of the exotic – an unexpected twist from London’s king of colour.

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Jonathan Saunders

With the dawn of a new season comes the tidal wave of beautiful faces gliding down runways, smiling at us from billboards and enticing us from the pages of magazines. From the fashion capitals of the world, we highlight the four girls who set the city alight and forged their way to the top of the list. These are the models of the minute.

Fei Fei Sun

Age: 22 Nationality: Chinese London highlight: Walking in sheer Saunders delights and London favourite Christopher Kane blinding the front row with her razor sharp cheekbones and beautiful brows.

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Models of the Minute

Abbey Lee Kershaw

Age: 24 Nationality: Australian London highlight: A street style favourite, this Mulberry girl stomped the runways of Pringle and Matthew Williamson among others proving her star just continues to rise.

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London

Bambi Northwood-Blyth

Age: 20 Nationality: Australian London highlight: Getting Katie Grandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s seal of approval and walking in all the shows Grand styled including Topshop Unique, Loewe and Giles.

Karlie Kloss

etro

Age: 19 Nationality: American Milan highlight: Karlie got the Milanese seal of approval from Dolce and Gabbana and cemented her status as one of this generation’s supermodels.

Constance Jablonski

Age: 22 Nationality: French Milan highlight: This smiley French blonde owned the Milan runways transforming like a chameleon from neon goddess at D&G to a classic beauty at Etro.

Trend

Fashion alberta ferretti

Anja Rubik

Age: 28 Nationality: Polish Milan highlight: The new bride showed the up and comers how it’s done in Milan enchanting the front row and designers alike with her precision perfect walk for the city’s finest labels.

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Jourdan Dunn

Age: 21 Nationality: English Milan highlight: Single handedly enducing ab envy for the new season with her jaunt down the Emilio Pucci runway with muscle definition to kill for.

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Arizona Muse

carolina herrera

Age: 23 Nationality: American New York highlight: The new mom got us excited about geometric prints at BCBG and we’re still lusting over her mid length bob.

Jac Jagaciak

Age: 18 Nationality: Polish New York highlight: Looking sophisticated beyond her 18 years in floor sweeping embellished Carolina Herrera, Jac as she’s known in the industry, continues to be the designer’s dream girl.

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Lindsey Wixson

Age: 18 Nationality: American New York highlight: Sauntering down the Oscar de la Renta catwalk in whisper pink fringing her gleaming skin and her big hair, Lindsey is the all American girl we love to watch.

diane von furstenberg

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Saskia de Brauw

Age: 31 Nationality: Dutch New York highlight: This former artist has been having a fantastic year topped off by a stellar show season including DVF and Jason Wu which definitely charmed the big apple.

Natasha Poly

dior

Age: 26 Nationality: Russian Paris highlight: Poly has walked for every major designer and fronted every campaign available. A Parisian whirlwind, Natasha walked for the finest in the city including Lanvin.

Liu Wen

Age: 24 Nationality: Chinese Paris highlight: Rounding out the Asian beauties of the season, gorgeous Liu Wen was a designer favourite strutting at Balmain and Dior among others.

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Joan Smalls

Age: 24 Nationality: Puerto Rican Paris highlight: One of the most coveted faces of the season, Joan stalked her way through Paris dazzling us at Givenchy and Isabel Marant.

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Daphne Groeneveld

Age: 17 Nationality: Dutch Paris highlight: This golden girlâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s career continues to go from strength to strength culminating in a dreamy Paris season walking for Chanel.

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Couture Week Diary

giambattista valli

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Spring/Summer 2012

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his season’s couture turned yet another novel and experimental corner, as editors and stylists watched a varying line-up of young and established designers showcase their heightened talents. With an enigmatic array of collections – satisfying both the feminine and romantic woes of traditional couture and the extreme and daring styles of an entirely new era – the world of couture has sent out a clear and respectable message that the recent humble and modest seasons are now a thing of the past. From couture’s front line (shownotes and Twitter at the ready), MOJEH relinquished in the glitz, the glam and the true beauty.

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Versace Held at the Beaux Arts, a golden staircase led us towards Versace heaven, as models including Lindsey Wixson and Karlie Kloss stunningly stood in contrasting palettes of misty greys to acid yellows and greens.

Backstage, the focus was on the face with hair tightly pulled back, cheekbones defined and eyes smoked out to sensation.

Top MOJEH tweet: Trust Donatella to turn Couture on its head @Versace #shortshortsandkneehighs

Beauties Cameron Diaz and Diane Kruger stood front row in support of Donatellaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first couture collection since 2004.

In classic Versace style, the girls took on floor length gowns and the extreme opposite of thighskimming pants. In each version she remained elegant, inspired and incredibly sexy.

Alexis Mabille

The wearable collection in crimson pinks, powder blues and stark oranges presented models with blossomed flowers on their heads, and their slinky bodies performed as the stalks that support them.

Mabille unlocked the gates to the Secret Garden with a collection showcasing flower adornments to the biggest and brightest of their possibilities.

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Christian Dior Dresses cinched at the waist, pencil skirts and sheer jackets – wearable yet magnificent – and ball gowns are billowing and far plumper than we’ve seen for a while.

A collection beaming with investment pieces ready to pass down from generation to generation – everything couture was built for.

In a fashion rarity, Giambattista received status as an official Haute Couture member this spring, just two seasons into the line. The collection, emulating traditional aesthetics with ball gowns, lace pencils and sheer princess dresses, solidifies the designer’s rare and immense talent.

A nostalgic and entirely dreamy collection that takes us back to 1950s couture when Christian Dior himself created timeless and graceful visions of women.

Backstage, designer Bill Gaytten refers to the idea of X-ray vision apparent in the focused use of chiffons, crystal droppings and pencil-thin sketches.

Giambattista Valli A European vibe made its way into the collection with exotic prints in flamboyant floor length shapes and lively palettes of pinks.

Exquisite and focused petals create the backdrop of the collection in pinks and blacks, morphed into divine headpieces or engulfing entire skirts and dresses. Top MOJEH tweet: A collection for the true couture client @ GiambattistaPR - hand beaded bugles and necklaces, pink dreamlike ball gowns, très chic #day1fini

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Bouquets of gold metal decorated shoulders, necks and waists in an opulent scene of luxury.

Chanel

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Models may not have ordinarily passed the hair and beauty tests with spiked mohawks high enough to touch the close skies, but these were made prettier and softer with crystallised hair pieces.

Karl Lagerfeld turned Captain as we boarded a flight on Chanel airways to watch the runway show, which actually took place on a life-sized airplane. The setting couldn’t have been more perfect as the start of the collection was very ‘trolly dolly-esque’ with tweed skirt and jacket combos in varying shades of blue.

The end of the show returned to the dreamier as opposed to conventional side of Chanel with both free falling tweed and chiffon dresses, and short sequined versions inclusive of bundles of camellias.

Georges Hobeika A soft palette of sorbet yellows, greens, oranges and whites were a clean and airy break from some of the louder tones seen across couture week.

‘Accentuating the female form is nothing less than a labour of love,’ says the couture designer and this season the collection is nothing less than gorgeous and perfectly in tune with the couture client’s style needs.

Short dresses added a fun, young and preppy vibe to the otherwise sophisticated collection.

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WEEK SPECIAL

‘My spring summer 2012 collection was inspired by the Orientalism Movement, a period of artwork from the late 1800s which was particularly popular in Western Europe, namely England and France. It was a time when the Western traveller became fascinated by the Eastern culture, in particular the harems and the ladies that occupied them. They interpreted their findings through art, in a sensual and exotic manner, creating eternally beautiful imagery. My challenge was to bring this artwork into current times and create a modern collection based on this,’ the designer himself describes his collection.

Rami Al Ali Syrian designer Rami Al Ali wows at his Paris début with an aesthetically impressive collection, which possesses aspirational qualities in opulent and striking gowns.

Svelte and dainty belts at the waist added a defined twist.

The Elie Saab DNA never alters when it comes to designing couture, and why would it? The Lebanese designer continually offers achingly romantic dresses that transform any woman into an ethereal fairytale. This season, the dusky colour palette mixed with falling petals in an array of column and princess dresses reaches new heights of feminine trance.

Elie Saab

Embellishment on dresses fall and arch, as would a waterfall of pearl and diamonds. Top MOJEH tweet: Elegance at its best in candy coloured svelte and embellished dresses @ElieSaabWorld #willyoubemypromdate?

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Snakes shedding skin is emulated in the form of bountiful couture gowns, as layers and pleats of green and black scale material unravel from top to bottom in dreamy visions of reptile evolution.

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Wearable blazers with triangular angled shoulder pads either entirely jewel encrusted or in plain satins accompanied dresses and trouser suits, making the Armani Privé girl a finished picture of glamorous perfection.

Armani Privé Top MOJEH tweet: @JosephinSkriver @lindseywixson @ SiriTollerd the complete picture of Couture perfection @armani Prive #somanytopmodelsinonerunway

The Givenchy team threw their couture clients off course with a static presentation as opposed to a runway show. No one minded as the statue models allowed the celestial collection to be entirely absorbed for all its intensity.

Models are transformed into striking exotic creatures, dressed head-to-toe in classic Privé silhouettes, vigorous shades of greens and yellows in snake skin, reptile scale and crocodile prints.

Riccardo Tisci takes couture to new and desirable heights with an edgy and abrasive collection that still somehow – through the use of floating shapes and thousands of diamonds and jewels – depicts a certain degree of vulnerability.

Givenchy Models were seemingly bounded by great silver jewellery pieces hanging from their ears and noses. Top MOJEH tweet: Only Riccardo Tisci can mix spikes and Couture @ givenchy #sogrungeglamour

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The show fluxed between hard-core punk glamour, to a more exposed and vulnerable aesthetic as models walked wearing creamy colours in soft fabrics, feminine shapes and with wisps of lace extruding out, showcasing the soft and defenceless side of the singer.

Gaultier entices with his assorted mix of colour and fabric: electric blue, berry red and bright orange worn on satins, lace, sequins and sheers.

Jean Paul Gaultier Top MOJEH tweet: Orange hair, sexy silhouettes, sequins and lashings of full blown glamour @ JPGaultier #confidenceisthekey

As a tribute to the late British singer Amy Winehouse, models wore beehive hair in multiple dyes, thick eyeliner in upward kicks and plenty of her signature corsetry.

Romance, romance and lots more romance.

Heavy lace, silk and satin in floral pinks, creams and blues unravel across a collection that makes us crave the dreamy and nonchalant nature of earlier times.

Valentino Glamorous it is not. Wholeheartedly beautiful and visionary it instead is.

Top MOJEH retweet: Chiuri and Piccioli beautifully execute the traditional values @MaisonValentino with modern day edge #teamworkmakesthedreamworkatValentino!

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The freedom and sensuous nature of the early 21st century is rife throughout the collection of floorlength long sleeve gowns, complete with high ruffle neck collars in draping styles.

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Paris is Burning

e all want to have the wardrobe of a Parisian femme fatale and now we can. Mix leather trousers from Balmain with a printed shirt from Stella for that hard and soft style the French are famous for. Gold studded Chloé boots, a solid Jimmy Choo clutch and shimmering Céline bangles complete a look that’s so effortlessly cool you’ll be asked which arrondissement you live in.

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10. balmain @ luisaviaroma.com | 11. jimmy choo | 12. christian louboutin | 13. chloe @ mytheresa.com | 14. alexander mcqueen

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Sea You at Dinner

ake inspiration from the ever present aquatic theme this season when choosing perfect dinner attire. A floor length Pucci print halter dress with its sea blue print is a perfect conservative choice. Shimmering shell tones are gorgeous for evening accessories. Chanelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s conch purse, a Kara Ross opal bangle and Charlotte Olympia heels are all beautiful picks. A stormy blue clutch from YSL and drop crystal earrings from Kimberly McDonald perfect your ocean-inspired ensemble.

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A Day at the Races

hannel summer glamour on the next race day with these ultra feminine pieces. Head-to-toe lace seen at Anna Sui is a chic option especially topped off with a wide brim hat. For a brighter more body conscious option, look to Pucci paired with woven Ralph Lauren heels. A natural finish Dior bag with a gold chain is sure to go perfectly with any race day outfit.

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Over the Top Opulence

ometimes in fashion more is more. Go to Oscar de la Renta for embellishments, colour, glitter and volume. Look to heavily decorated gowns like this Erdem shift and shimmering handbags similar to this Bulgari one. With such concentrated decoration stick to a monochrome colour palette to avoid a costume look. An intricately cut white Ralph Lauren clutch or glittering Jennifer Behr hair comb are added extras to cement your over-the-top glamour.

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Behind the Scenes at Chanel Couture

t was January in the heart of Paris. The city had just been taken over by a bitter cold January chill…and systematically the enigmatic charm and magic of couture week. With the streets awash with photographers, bloggers and style kings and queens from across the globe, we could not have been more pleased when Chanel offered us sanctuary in their couture ateliers along the famous Rue Cambon. Rarely opening its doors to anyone other than the seamstresses and Lagerfeld himself, the visit was a rare and privileged opportunity to experience one of fashion’s best-kept secrets. The two ateliers – one specifically for dresses and the other for tailoring – produce two collections a year along with each of the special couture orders. The head seamstresses in each of the locations take Lagerfeld’s designs and work with their teams to bring his intimate sketches to life. No easy task, the women must adhere to the customary rules of couture, carry through the almost century-old visions of Coco Chanel and embrace the new and innovative ones of Lagerfeld. Not to mention the age-old couture superstitions which still hold true for the seamstresses. Did you know that if a dress falls from its rail it’s a lucky sign that it won’t be sent back to the atelier? And when working on a wedding gown, if an unmarried seamstress sews her hair into the fabric she will be proposed to within the year! From the astonishing imagination of Lagerfeld, to the craft and intuition of the seamstresses, the walls of the ateliers on the Rue Cambon hold a prevailing amount of talent, history, passion and what we like to deem a little bit of magic.

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Mojeh â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Karl Lagerfeld used 154 shades of blue to create the spring summer 2012 collection. The result was a stream of dresses and tailored two-pieces in a glowing array of everything from midnight to ink and back to baby blues.â&#x20AC;&#x2122;

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â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;The camellia made its first appearance in 1913 and ever since, the same four stages of design have gone into creating the flower. First the fabric is dressed, and then the petals are cut and afterwards individually shaped, before 25 are finally crafted together to make the perfect camellia. Still, no one Chanel camellia is ever the same.â&#x20AC;&#x2122;

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Mojeh All looks from the SS 2012 Haute Couture collection

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;In 1932 Mademoiselle Chanel showed her first fine jewellery collection worth an estimated 93 million francs at that time. She later encouraged women to be playful, incorporating diamonds, jewels and pearls in her clothes designs.â&#x20AC;&#x2122;

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Interview

Designer

Interview

Designer

Fashion’s Golden Girl

MOJEH speaks exclusively to super stylist and astute businesswoman Rachel Zoe on her incredible career, Hollywood’s most memorable red carpet moments and her biggest new client…her son. By Meaghan Rogers

hen an individual’s talent surpasses their job title, amazing things can happen. Oprah Winfrey’s first job was in a grocery store; Steve Jobs began as a technician and Madonna served Dunkin Donuts. From humble beginnings they pushed themselves to become trailblazers in their destined industries, forever altering the definition of their roles and opening the doors for future generations to grow, learn and revere. Rachel Zoe has managed to become recognised as a powerhouse player in the world of fashion, styling, design and business. With a hit reality TV series, a highly sought after styling business, a growing online empire as well as her own fashion line, Zoe has become incorporated and is the epitome of a modern success story. Emerging triumphant from an industry usually shrouded in mystery and kept firmly behind the scenes, Zoe has altered the landscape of a stylist’s prowess indelibly, and it all started with an insatiable appetite for fashion. At the age of 25, Rachel Zoe from Millburn New Jersey got her fashion education as fashion editor at YM magazine in New York City. ‘I remember how much I loved the job – it consumed me. I was paid next to nothing, but it didn’t matter. I learned that in order to be successful in work and in life you must truly love what you do.’ After four years at the magazine, Zoe left the safety net of a corporate structure and struck out on her own, styling the teen heartthrobs she’d met through YM. She immediately started styling the Backstreet Boys, Britney

Spears and Jessica Simpson embarking on a hectic and demanding personal styling schedule. ‘I didn’t have a life,’ Zoe explains. ‘All I did was work 24 hours a day, seven days a week. For a while, it was just me and a part time assistant – I did everything myself, more or less.’ The job was challenging as well as demanding with Zoe pandering to the various personalities of her clients. ‘I was always creating something new and different each time – keeping their image innovative and interesting.’ A degree in psychology helped the new stylist negotiate the emotional battlefield that is the life of an emerging artist. Success came for Zoe ‘through collaboration and gaining an understanding for who [the artists] are, what kind of message they wanted to portray, what made them most confident and how they wanted to be perceived by the public.’ Although creatively, Zoe may not have been knee deep in couture – ‘I remember a lot of head-to-toe white ensembles,’ she cringes – the stylist was about to make a Hollywood connection that would turn her career around. In 2002 Rachel relocated from the East Coast to the West, residing in LA and styling Hollywood stars for the red carpet. Jennifer Garner became one of her first clients, opening the world of fashion-driven celebrity styling and solidifying her reputation in the industry. ‘I gained credibility,’ Zoe remarks with nostalgia. ‘People recognised my ability to bring fashion to the red carpet, to incorporate both couture and vintage glamour. At that time I just wanted to be one of the best at whatever

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design houses, with entire collections reserved for that all-important starlet. Getting your dress on that Oscars red carpet is a kind of indelible marketing that cannot be quantified and is of premium importance to the brand, the actress and of course the stylist. With so many breathtaking pieces loaned exclusively to Zoe over the years, she must have some favourites that stand out? ‘Definitely the vintage Bulgari necklace Keira Knightley wore to the Oscars; it was from the archives of Bulgari,’ she explains. ‘Also the vintage Van Cleef & Arpels necklace Eva Mendes wore to the Golden Globes. Oh, and all the Fred Leighton treasures that Jennifer Garner has worn – I just died for the earrings she wore to the 2006 Oscars.’ Stellar connections with designers are critical to the process, something Zoe prides herself on after years of working with the world’s top designers including Marc Jacobs, Tom Ford and Oscar de la Renta. ‘For red carpet,’ she says, ‘I love Versace, Lanvin, Tom Ford, Valentino, Gucci, YSL, Chanel, Dior, and Giambattista Valli. I think after years of collaboration, you ultimately develop intimate friendships.’. Marc Jacobs, with whom she has been friends with for years, has repeatedly said the two ‘love love’ each other; it’s not a fake ‘fashion love.’ ‘When you get positive responses from the work that you do, it is only natural to keep going back to the people you worked with to get those responses,’ Zoe enthuses. Valentino, whom she first met in 2004, writes in Zoe’s book Style A to Zoe, ‘I have always believed the greatest contribution I can make is to offer clothes that are glamorous, sensual, and feminine. And Rachel understands this in her own work.’ Her success in business has at times come at great personal sacrifice. ‘I’ve missed many best friends’ weddings, anniversaries, birthdays and baby showers all for the sake of the job,’ Zoe laments. ‘Your true friends understand and the love will always be there, but it’s hard to miss those milestones.’ Naturally the highs and lows of her work have at times taken their toll with Zoes’s reputation taking a serious battering. Her adoring fans get to see it all with the Rachel Zoe Project, her reality series that shows the dedication and hard work which is needed to survive the fashion industry. ‘One of my intentions is definitely to help people gain an understanding of what stylists do – it’s such a multifaceted

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I was doing – however I needed to achieve that,’ she says. ‘I was always wanting and willing to work harder and was so lucky to work with someone as beautiful and graceful as Jennifer.’ Zoe quickly gained a stellar reputation in LA working with Cameron Diaz, Demi Moore, Eva Mendes, Kate Hudson and Anne Hathaway, who all loved her ability to bring glamour back to the red carpet. ‘When I made the transition from music to really focusing on red carpet and editorials I was more creatively satisfied,’ she explains. A new world opened up to Zoe, working with couture and vintage couture, styling clients for fashion events, shoots, premieres and award shows. Award season is without question one of Zoe’s busiest times of the year with her clients attending the SAGs, the Golden Globes and of course the Oscars, meaning extreme pressure as early as January. Every year Zoe and her team dress Hollywood’s top actresses in dream gowns from the top ateliers of the world in a spectacle of glamour that epitomises the power of the fashion industry. Stars are literally cultivated on the red carpet, with the 2011 Oscars alone viewed by over 37.6 million viewers. It didn’t hurt that at last year’s show Zoe styled Anne Hathaway as a host, with seven different looks – the first stylist to ever do so in history. While the ceremony was widely panned, no one could argue that Hathaway was anything but radiant wearing Valentino couture one minute, a glittering Tom Ford gown the next and even donning a Lanvin tuxedo. Zoe also happened to be 39 weeks pregnant at the time, which made it a borderline supernatural feat. The image of an actress on the red carpet is seen all over the world, printed in every major fashion and lifestyle magazine and archived for years to come. The importance of making a best-dressed list is palpable and something Zoe and her team have been schooling the industry in for years. Who can forget Keira Knightley at the 2006 Oscars in a maroon taffeta gown custom-made by Vera Wang, or Eva Mendes in a vintage white Dior creation with stunning vintage turquoise jewellery at the 2009 ceremony? These images define a generation and take stellar industry connections to complete, with many dresses pulled straight from the runways and custom fitted for each star days before the ceremony. This year there have been whispers of strict contractual agreements between actresses and

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From left to right images courtesy of: Jason Merritt/Getty, Pascal Le Segretain/Getty, Ethan Miller/Getty, Jason Merritt/Getty, Astrid Stawiarz/Getty Images for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, Jamie McCarthy/Getty Images for Marc Jacobs, Jason Merritt/Getty, Frazer Harrison/Getty, Mike Coppola/Getty, John Shearer/Getty Images for InStyle, Jason Merritt/Getty Images for Veuve Clicquot, Gareth Cattermole/Getty Images for Burberry, Frazer Harrison/Getty, John Shearer/Getty Images for InStyle, Astrid Stawiarz/Getty, Frazer Harrison/Getty, John Shearer/Getty.

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Rodger welcomed their first baby Skyler Morrison in March of 2011. Slowing down in her career doesn’t seem to be part of the plan but Zoe says she has relaxed her obsessive working habits since Skyler has arrived. ‘Surprisingly it has come kind of naturally,’ she says. ‘I think that Skyler has given me balance. I don’t spend as much time obsessing over the small stuff. I focus on what is important and in front of me – so that I can get back to being with him!’ Balancing work life and motherhood is a new challenge that Zoe has learned to adapt to. ‘It’s a challenge every day,’ she states, ‘I never want to leave him, but I have the luxury, because it’s my business, to take Skyler with me wherever I go, which certainly helps!’ The one place Zoe hasn’t been is the Middle East, but it’s most definitely somewhere she would love to visit. ‘I think Middle Eastern fashion is extremely luxurious – I love all the rich textures, fabrics, embellishments and colours,’ she enthuses. ‘I love that the women aren’t afraid to wear the most beautiful, glamorous, over the top pieces.’ With a career built on incredible instincts and hard work, Zoe knows exactly what’s needed to survive the industry. ‘Inner strength and a tough skin,’ she chides. ‘You learn really quickly not to take things personally. Also passion and perseverance – learning that mistakes make you better at what you do.’ With countless awards and recognition so far what have been the most significant moments in her life? ‘That’s hard to say, as it’s a tremendous honour to be recognised by my peers in any regard,’ she muses. ‘To be considered as a visionary influence is an extraordinary honour. But the best things are having a happy loving relationship of over 20 years with my husband, Rodger, and the birth of our son, Skyler Morrison.’ Conquering styling, designing, reality TV and what seems like endless projects she’s linked to, what does the future hold for Rachel Zoe? ‘So many things – this is only the beginning – you will just have to wait and see!’

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job,’ she explains, ‘I’ve tried to explore all of the different avenues from red carpets to editorials – to give everyone a glimpse of the behind the scenes – at the guts, the glamour and the glory that come with the industry.’ 2011 has without a doubt been Zoe’s busiest year professionally. Along with her ongoing TV and styling gigs for stars like Molly Sims, Liv Tyler and Natalia Vodianova, she added designer to her CV, creating her namesake line which received rave reviews. Drawing influence from her life, passions and style heroes, The Rachel Zoe Collection is a chic, modern and utterly covetable collection that saw buyers from Bergdorf, Neiman Marcus, Bloomingdales and Saks all snapping it up on its first outing in February of 2011. ‘I was completely surprised,’ exclaims Zoe, ‘I couldn’t have imagined that people would have loved it as much as I do. It has been a dream come true.’ Her designer friends have been nothing but supportive, recognising h ow her s t ro n g aesthetic eye translates perfectly to design after years in the industry. ‘I’ve had an unbelievable amount of kindness and support from my friends within the fashion industry,’ she explains, ‘I am incredibly fortunate.’ With decades of experience styling collections with designers such as Matthew Williamson and consulting for international brands such as Halston, it would seem the seeds to design have been steadily growing throughout Zoe’s accomplished career. ‘I owe so much of my success to my past work experiences,’ she asserts. ‘As a stylist, I developed an appreciation for fit and tailoring, as well as fabrics and silhouettes that flatter certain body types. This knowledge has been so valuable when creating my collection.’ Spring summer 2012 is all about easy glamour, with tailored blazers over evening gowns, long languid skirts and relaxed office wear. Wearable pieces that make dressing in the morning quick, easy and glamorous. Perfect for Zoe herself who, as a new mother, has a new outlook on life. Zoe and her husband

‘I’ve had an unbelievable amount of kindness and support from my friends within the fashion industry’

1. Rachel Zoe | 2. Zoe and husband Rodger | 3. Anne Hathaway wearing vintage Valentino and Mr. Valentino at the Academy

Kate Hudson wearing Marchesa at the Golden Globes in 2010 | 9. Eva Mendes wearing Christian Dior and a Van Cleef & Arpels necklace at the Golden Globes in 2009 | 10. Zoe and Brian Atwood | 11. Zoe, husband Rodger and son Skyler | 12.

Rachel Zoe | 13. Zoe front row at the Burberry RTW SS12 show | 14. Keira Knightley wearing a vintage Bulgari necklace at the Academy Awards in 2006 | 15. Zoe and Victoria Beckham | 16. Zoe front row at the Supima SS 2012 show | 17. Jennifer Garner wearing Fred Leighton diamond earrings at the Academy Awards in 2006 | 18. Rachel Zoe

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Who is the Fairest of Them All? Photographed by THIERNO SY Styled by JESSICA GORDON

Metallic lace dress, House of Worth Couture

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Studded top and skirt, Versace | Toi & Moi bracelets, Baccarat

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Silk brocade dress, Rochas | Perforated belt, Azzedine Alaia | Leather clutch, Christian Louboutin | Glitter shoes, Jimmy Choo

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Embroidered dress and eagle necklace, Lanvin | Glitter shoes, Jimmy Choo

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Silk embroidered dress, Balmain | Suede shoes, Azzedine Alaia

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Silk dress with sequin bustier, Elie Saab | Yellow gold and pink crystal necklace, Baccarat

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Chiffon dress, Bottega Veneta | Glitter clutch, Jimmy Choo

Satin blouse, Chanel | Perle de RosĂŠe necklace, Chanel Fine Jewelry

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Embroidered dress, Balmain

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Black and gold silk dress, YSL | Yellow gold and pink crystal cuff, Baccarat

Silk trousers, linen and silk jacket and silver top, Haider Ackermann | Perle de RosĂŠe necklace, Chanel Fine Jewelry

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Black and gold jacket, Gucci

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Geometric dress and bolero, Alexandre Vauthier

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Knitted dress, Azzedine Alaia | Eventail cuff, Chanel Fine Jewelry

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Embroidered sequin bolero, Elena Perseil 188

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Sweet surrender Photographed by RAPHAEL DELORME & THIERNO SY Produced by LOUIS AGENCY

Green knit sweater, Chloe

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Black backless dress with chiffon flowers, Chloe

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Chiffon floral print dress, CHLOE

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Black chiffon blouse with flowers on the neckline and black pleated chiffon skirt, CHLOE

Spring and Summer collections are available in Chloe boutiques: Boulevard, Jumeirah Emirates Towers & Fashion Avenue, Dubai Mall

Model: Paulina Wyka, Rebel Models | Hair and Makeup: Aneta Kostrzewa

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Print silk dress, Antonio Marras | Raw aquamarine and diamond necklace, Kara Ross Fine Jewelry | Oval lapis and diamond ring, Kimberly McDonald Fine Jewelry | Shoes, Walter Steiger

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ladies of the manor Photographed by Silja Magg Styled by Bryan Marryshow

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Black dress and matching coat with embroidery, Dolce&Gabbana | Palmyre necklace in white gold and diamonds, Van Cleef & Arpels | Eyewear, A-Morir | Metal bracelets with pearls, Chanel | Large fire opal, rock crystal and diamond ring, Kara Ross Fine Jewelry | Garter, Kiki de Montparnasse | Stockings, Fogal

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Left: Silk skirt and top, Dior | Oval lapis and diamond ring, Kimberly McDonald Fine Jewelry | Choker, Shourouk Right: Silk embroidered dress and straw hat, Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Wren Scott | Mother of pearl, white gold and diamond earrings, Van Cleef & Arpels | Metal bracelet with black and silver strass, Chanel | Chrysophrase cabochon ring, Kara Ross Fine Jewelry

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Left: Cuir & Dentelle babydoll, Jean Paul Gaultier La Perla Collection | Palmyre necklace in diamonds and white gold, Van Cleef & Arpels | Hat, Victoria Grant

Center: Frou Frou bodysuit dress, Jean Paul Gaultier La Perla Collection | Folie de pres necklace in white gold and diamonds and blue sapphires, Van Cleef & Arpels | Hat, Victoria Grant

Right: Black coat with Swarovski crystal trim, Thomas Wylde | Hat, Victoria Grant

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Cuir & Dentelle babydoll, Jean Paul Gaultier La Perla Collection | Palmyre necklace in white gold and diamonds, Van Cleef & Arpels | Sterling silver and Swarovski crystal ring, Shourouk | Hat, Victoria Grant

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Black embroidered dress, Gucci

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Silk chiffon blouse, leather pleated skirt, bracelet and shoes, Prada | Uvarovite garnet, diamond and white gold pendant, Kimberly McDonald Fine Jewelry

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Halter gown with jeweled detail, Versace | Kunzite drop earrings with multi-colored sapphires, Kara Ross Fine Jewelry | Shoes, Dior

Silk skirt and sleeveless top with beaded collar, Jason Wu | Eyewear, A-Morir | Raw amethyst and 18kt gold necklace, coral drop earrings and pink star quartz and diamomd ring, Kara Ross Fine Jewelry

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Top: Silk chiffon dress with ruffle detail, Thomas Wylde | Envol bracelet in white gold and Diamonds, Van Cleef & Arpels | Shoes, Christian Louboutin

Center: Silk chiffon dress, Thomas Wylde | 5 stone cobalt calcite and uvarovite garnet necklace and ring, Kara Ross Fine Jewelry | Shoes, Diego Dolcini

Bottom: Tulle dress and shoes, Lanvin | Tigers eye cuff, Kara Ross Fine Jewelry | Diamond and 18kt rose gold outline bangle, Kimberly McDonald fine jewelry

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Black and white silk chiffon dress, Gucci

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Silk dress, Giorgio Armani | Raw citrine necklace, Kara Ross Fine Jewelry

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Left: Silk taffeta and lace gown, Oscar de la Renta | Black cuff in plexiglass with pink glass pearls, Chanel | Shoes, Christian Louboutin

Right: Purple and blue chiffon gown, Bottega Veneta | Hair comb, Jennifer Bahr | Amethyst and 18kt gold earrings, Kara Ross | Shoes, Giorgio Armani 210

Navy blue dress in silk crepe and metal bracelet with black and silver strass, Chanel

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UNLEASH THE SEASON Photographed by RAPHAEL DELORME Styled by ALESSANDRA STELLA

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Polka dot dress, Sonia Rykiel | Necklace, Chanel

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Top, pants and gloves, Celine | Belt, Lanvin | Necklace, Viveka Bergstrom

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Sequin dress, Eric Tibusch | Earrings, Boucheron

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Top, Maria Lucia Hohan |Pants, Issey Miyake | Casque, Odette Bombardier | Shoes, Christian Louboutin | Bangles, Andrew Gn

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Dress, Chloe

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Corset and skirt, Nina Ricci | Necklace and bangle, Chanel | Ring, Helene Zubeldia

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Green body, Prada | Belt, Azzedine Alaia | Gloves, Phylea | Necklace and earrings, Helene Zubeldia

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Jacket and belt, Andrew Gn | Dress, Caroline Seikaly | Gloves, Phylea | Necklace, Helene Zubeldia

Model: Charlotte Di Calypso, Elite Paris | Hair & Makeup: Aneta Kostrzewa | Manicurist: Akari Sugino | Photographerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s assistant: Quentin Chamard-Bois | Production: Louis Agency

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Halter top, ANNA SUI | Green tourmaline heart ring with 228white and green diamonds, AVAKIAN

A California Dream

Photographed by Tracey Morris Styled by Bryan marryshow

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Skirt and top, ANNA SUI | Leather wedges, PRADA | Swanson bag, JUDITH LEIBER

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Double cotton patchwork bodysuit with embroidered detailing, PRADA | Conch shell bag, JUDITH LEIBER | Black halter top, ANNA SUI | Unique collection ring with milky sky and black diamonds, AVAKIAN

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Shorts, top, eyewear, socks and shoes, ANNA SUI

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Cotton coat with supperpose embroidery detailing, PRADA | Leather wedges, PRADA | Clam shell bag, JUDITH LEIBER | Joker Ring with cabochon topaz and tsavorite, Avakian

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Navy bikini, Adriana Degreas | Clam shell bag, JUDITH LEIBER | 18ct aqua and peridot stones ring and 18k aqua and peridot stones ring, Avakian

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Ode to Femininity Photographed by Federico de angelis Styled by donatella musco

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Embroidered coat with organza flowers and a pleated silk satin belt, Chanel Haute Couture

Yellow lace dress with cardigan, Elie Saab Haute Couture

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Embroidered black silk coat with skirt, Christian Dior Haute Couture

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240silk top with skirt, bracelets and hat, Armani PrivĂ¨ Black

Light blue raffia embroidered suit, with tulle gloves, Valentino Haute Couture

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Black long transparent dress, Rama Al Ali Hatue Couture

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White embroidered suit, Margiela Artisanal Haute Couture

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Silk tulle dress and bolero embroidered with sequins and beads, Chanel 244 Couture Haute

Yellow embroidered dress with metal gold profiles, Versace Haute Couture

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Black coat and printed dress, Jean Paul 246 Gautier Haute Couture

Yellow embroidered and sequin top and double tulle skirt, Georges Hobeika Haute Couture

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Mens

Letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hear it for the Boys This issue, MOJEH has a dedicated section to the hard working men in our lives. From the smartest new ensembles to custom made sports cars and suits make your man feel included this season and spread the love.

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DUBAI UAE WAFI CITY, +971 4 3244223 DUBAI MALL, +971 4 4341406

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Evening attire

veningwear takes a decadent turn on the Armani catwalk with midnight blues the hue of choice. A denim shirt is a quirky touch under a suit jacket and navy slacks are always a wise investment. Recreate the look for your man with velvet house slippers from Todâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s and a luxurious Bulgari watch. Accessories for dinner dressing are an added individual statement. We love these quirky Paul Smith cufflinks and this McQueen money clip for frivolous additions to any manâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s attire. 4

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Brioni Founders Gaetano Savini and Nazareno Fonticoli and a 1973 advert.

BRIONI: ELEGANCE AND LUXURY LIFESTYLE SINCE 1945 The Italian menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wardrobe par excellence represents an international icon of style. 252

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B Brioni fittings for James Bond

rioni is a brand that embodies top luxury and Italian style. It represents the best idea of elegance for a high selection of international customers who love the handicraft high-class quality, the excellent raw materials, eternally exclusive style and colours. Since its birth, Brioni has developed internationally all over the principal markets, so much so that in 2007, and again in 2011, it was named the most prestigious brand in male fashion, according to an independent survey by the New York Luxury Institute. In fact, both the brand and the product represent an authentic way of living, choosing excellence and passion. A Brioni suit is not just made to be worn; it is a refuge for the body, for the spirit, for one’s individuality, for one’s style. Devised, designed and constructed perfectly – not just ‘made to measure’ but ‘man-sized’ – this is an inevitable prerogative for men who ‘live in their suits’ the whole day. Whether in the office or on a business flight, these men are at home in their suits. Thanks to the Made-ToMeasure experience, a customer can obtain the perfect style,

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It all started in Rome during the ’50s and ’60s – the enchanting capital was a perfect set for big American productions and Brioni actually added to this success, thanks to its exclusive tailoring. fitting and service. Brioni understands every single customer’s needs, which is why Brioni has been known as a pioneer spirit since the beginning, experiencing some extraordinary moments. In 1952 the Roman Maison made the first male catwalk in fashion history. Then, at the end of the ’50s, Brioni proposed the introduction of colours for formal suits, an exceptional proposal during a time when black, blue and grey simply had no alternatives. Innovation is vital for a challenging company like Brioni that serves the most demanding clientele. From the development of research and the discovery of new, sophisticated fibres to the constant study of style, every single season we combine classics with new ideas, creating a contemporary look. That’s why not only the establishment but even the jet-setting cinema stars choose the Brioni wardrobe. It all started in Rome during the ’50s and ’60s – the enchanting capital was a perfect set for big American productions and Brioni actually added to this success, thanks to its exclusive tailoring. John Wayne, Clark Gable, Rick Hudson, Ava Gardner, Liz Taylor…all the biggest actors passed through Barberini (the site of the tailor’s boutique) and today, from Hollywood to Bollywood, Brioni still have many international movie stars as customers. Brioni’s presence in the Middle East in hubs like Dubai, Abu Dhabi and Beirut is bound to be a long time relationship based on loyalty. The opening in Riyad is set for the end of March and Brioni is stitching a big event…

Brioni Master Tailors and MTM Experience

SS12 looks

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Cruise Control

s temperatures rise, encourage the man in your life to take inspiration from the runways of Ermanno Scervino. Light linen mix trousers from Carolina Herrera are offset with a pink Vilebrequin shirt and Ferragamo sandals. Cool blue touches come from Herrera espadrilles and a Hermes watch whilst a pop of summer colour comes from an Alexander McQueen card holder. Accessories are best kept neutral with Lanvin crafting a great set of beads and Miansai offering a rustic leather bracelet. Laid-back luxury is easily achievable with these pieces this season.

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Tailor-Made

The internationally distinguishable yellow and black Ferrari symbol is one of the most recognised logos in the world. This year the Ferrari team are on a mission to ensure that the eternal prancing pony adorns an elite selection of custom-made vehicles in a new Tailor-Made service for 2012. What can only be likened to the haute couture process in fashion, the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s leading sports car manufacturers are developing the most exciting custom experience this side of Paris. Here MOJEH speaks exclusively to Luca Cordero di Montezemolo, Ferrariâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s long-standing chairman, about the newest developments in the company and their commitment to the traditions started by Enzo Ferrari all those years ago. 258

browse in order to better conceptualise their dream car. ‘We wanted to create a programme perfectly in line with our core values: exclusivity, craftsmanship, innovation,’ enthuses Montezemolo. ‘The “haute couture” approach is essential in terms of designing something really unique. Craftsmanship has always been a characteristic of our cars, it gives the special and warm touch you can feel only behind the wheel of a Ferrari.’ Just like a designer delves into new techniques and materials to create a singular breath-taking gown, so do the innovators at Ferrari, dedicating years of development to mechanical high technology and special materials never before used in automobiles. Luxury materials such as cashmere and custom denims sit alongside carbon fibre, allowing the client to create and realise the car of their dreams. ‘The client can then track all of the various processes involved in its creation, right up until they take delivery,’ Montezemolo explains. ‘There’s a very special way in which Ferrari define this concept of luxury, combining different ingredients: history and innovation, racing heritage and futuristic design, high technology and exclusivity – all of them combined with the great passion we put in our work. This is the essence of luxury for us.’

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symbol of tradition, luxury and freedom, owning a Ferrari is for many men and women a dream. The familiar flash of Italian ‘race red’ conjures milestone images throughout history. With a tale that begins in 1929, it is one of the few manufacturers that have retained an air of desire in the consumer throughout market downturns, crashes and even the recession. ‘Ferraris are dreams, not just cars,’ Montezemolo explains. ‘Our customers are people who want to fulfil their dreams. They look for the best in technology and innovation and at the same time they want exclusivity and craftsmanship on a car which blends heritage and cutting-edge technology.’ It was through this desire for a bespoke experience that Ferrari initiated the TailorMade service to help clients express their own unique personalities and tastes. Built upon the long-standing Maranello tradition, which began in the ’50s and ’60s when clients personalised their cars to exacting specifications, Montezemolo saw an opportunity in the changing attitudes of his clients. ‘Sometime in the past, luxury meant extreme behaviours and showing off,’ he explains. ‘That is something I don’t like at all. Nowadays I believe it is a concept linked to beautiful and refined things created with the best resources in terms of materials, technologies and people’s experience; luxury is style and exclusivity.’ From Ferrari’s creative hub, clients are assigned a personal designer who works with them to create a truly bespoke vehicle. A creative studio awaits them in the headquarters of the Italian brand where they are immersed in samples of materials, treatments and colours to

‘Ferraris are dreams, not just cars’

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The Tailor-Made service offers clients three models to choose from when modifying to their exacting standards. The Scuderia, Classica and Inedita are inspired directly by Ferrari’s DNA and offer the brand’s expertise and decades of knowledge to create a completely unique vehicle. The personal designer guides each client through the process guaranteeing that the resulting cars are both unique and consistent with the Ferrari brand and its tradition. The programme has virtually no limits, creativity apart, with recent examples being a California who’s interior was crafted completely out of denim and a 166 MM Agnelli Classica with an ombre custom paint job . ‘The TailorMade program is the peak of a personalisation program involving few tens of customers every year,’ explains Montezemolo, ‘but each car is personalised in different ways and there is no Ferrari similar to another coming out of Maranello. Variations on interior colours, colour combinations and personalised paintwork are without a doubt the most common requests,’ the Chairman continues. ‘The TailorMade program gives an unprecedented freedom to our clients. We’ll see in the next months what will be the emerging trends, but the vehicles will be quite limited in terms of numbers.’ The Middle East has a very special link to Ferrari with the iconic Ferrari World housed in Abu Dhabi, one of the company’s biggest success stories to date. It remains the only automotive constructor in the world with a dedicated theme park catering not only to the Ferrari enthusiast, but to the whole family as well. ‘I’m very proud of Ferrari World Abu Dhabi,’ gushes Montezemolo. ‘It is located in a crucial area of the world and the government of Abu Dhabi is investing a huge amount of resources to make Yas Island attractive from the touristic point of view. Of course the park is raising the interest of many people in the Middle East. We have requests from other parts of the world but we are still evaluating if and where to open a new one.’ No matter what part of the world the Ferrari customer resides there is a common link enthusiast’s share: a passion for performance, technological innovation

‘ The Middle East has a very special link to Ferrari with the iconic Ferrari World housed in Abu Dhabi.’

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Mens

and above all a fun driving experience. ‘All of them are looking for emotions behind the wheel,’ Montezemolo enthuses. ‘I think this is very important because it demonstrates the strict relation between the company and customer and how global the love and affection is for Ferrari. Of course the Middle East is quite a new market for but in the UAE there’s an Owners’ Club with a lot of members that is very active on the ground and is a great support to the community.’ The Tailor-Made service is sure to give the Ferrari community new levels of self-expression with completely unique vehicles being produced for the ultimate Ferrari fans. It marks a new era for the Italian brand which has maintained an almost impossibly stellar reputation since its inception in 1929, something Montezemolo himself is incredibly proud of. Beginning with the company as an assistant to Enzo Ferrari in Maranello, he resided over the Scuderia specifically in the racing field. ‘We stuck to a very simple concept: stay true to ourselves, to our core values, to our history, to the vision of the founder but at the same time always look for extreme innovation,’ he clarifies. ‘My experience gave me the exact understanding of the soul of this company. Those values are the same today and they will be kept as long as I will be the chairman of Ferrari.’ Maintaining an air of exclusivity is paramount for this next stage in the company’s development, which explains why only a handful of clients will actually

‘ The Tailor-Made service is sure to give the Ferrari community new levels of self-expression.’

be able to experience the Tailor-Made service. ‘Ferrari is not interested in enlarging volumes,’ Montezemolo explains, ‘we grew only because we entered into new markets. This is very important for the brand and for the value of our cars. The recipe for success is very simple: be a sports car manufacturer striving for the excellence in everything we do. The ingredients are always the same: passion, heritage, performance, technology, innovation, design and the Italian creativity.’ And so the next chapter in the storied history of the prancing horse begins. Satisfying their clients’ insatiable appetite for luxury, exclusivity and innovation, Ferrari opens up a new world of customisation and a whole new fleet of unique vehicles. That next chapter for the cavallino rampante seems to be built upon the famous words of Enzo Ferrari for customers worldwide: ‘My favourite Ferrari? The next one.’

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Red Carpet, photographed by Simon Upton, Issue 1

Body Brooch, photographed by Lionel Koretzky, Issue 3

Love, Laugh, Live, photographed by Riccardo Tinelli, Issue 6

70â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, photographed by Giulia Noni, Issue 2

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accessories Timing is Everything, photographed by Greg Gex, Issue 2

The Cherry on Top, photographed by Lionel Koretzky, Issue 4

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timo weiland carven

trussardi

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paul & joe

Back on Trend

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krizia

aquascutum

kenzo

The backpack has returned. From the playground to the front row, everyone’s first ‘it’ bag is back with a bang and in so many designs you’re sure to find one you love. From classic brown leather at Trussardi to chic stripes at Carven, the possibilities are endless. Just try not to graffiti all over yours this time.

prabal gurung

talbot runhof

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giles proenza schouler

Cat eyeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s are the biggest shape in sunglasses for spring summer 2012. These sultry sunnies evoke an old Hollywood glamour in basic black from Zac Posen or brought up to date in neon green by Nicole Farhi. Channel your inner movie star this season and try this fiercely feline design.

giambattista valli

rochas

zac posen d&g

Cool Cat

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louis vuitton hermes

jaeger london

hermes

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givenchy

Kooky Extras

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lanvin

anna sui

frankie morello

We love unearthing new accessories we didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t even know we needed, and this season we found so many adorable new friends to play with â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a chic water holder from Hermes (perfect for our long walks in the park!) and a change purse hanging around the neck at Givenchy that even comes with a shark tooth for extra protection. Camera cases and hip flasks round out our favourite new accoutrements for our accessory wish list.

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paul & joe

john richmond

ralph lauren

matthew williamson 3.1 phillip lim

Fringe Benefits

dsquared

mark fast

alexis mabille

Fringe is back in a big way this season adorning bags that swish as you walk adding attitude and serious style points. Evoke a Wild West feeling with your outfits just by adding a single fringed handbag. Try Matthew Williamsonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tie-dye bag or a glittering mini version from Alexis Mabille. Perfect for a summer barbecue or as a nonchalant addition to a relaxed festival ensemble, a fringed bag will see you through the entire season.

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comme des garcons

issey miyake alexander mcqueen

’Tis the season for headwear – think polo, summer weddings and races. This season designers have kicked creativity up a notch with hats, fascinators and even vegetables ready to top off your outfit. Lace helmets were seen at McQueen, whilst quaint green fascinators ruled at Issa. If you’re really pushing the fashion boat out this summer, try this oversized carrot from Moschino and wait for the buzz to kick in.

jen kao

issey miyake

moschino

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john rocha

Head to the Top

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hermes

rochas

viktor & rolf

karen walker nicholas K.

Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a Wrap

anna sui

frankie morello

holly fulton

Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s something so regal about a great headscarf. We think of Elizabeth II horse riding or Princess Grace driving around Monaco in a drop top. Bring out your modest side this summer whilst looking like a princess with this one simple accessory. We love the delicate dove grey print of this Nicholas K scarf or go for a head-turning print like this Anna Sui number.

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john richmond

moschino

louis vuitton

ysl

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bottega veneta

Heavy Metal

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thakoon

alexander mcqueen

pringle of scotland

Too often summer shoes fall into the dainty, delicate and sometimes boring bracket, so imagine our delight when we started seeing these hardedged and glamorously gilded heels. Look for metal toes like these Louis Vuitton pumps or this great metal-wedged Bottega Veneta pair. Prissy summer shoes be gone, these metal heels are here to stay.

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chris benz

d&g

nicole farhi

A luxurious new kind of belt has emerged this season much to our delight. The soft tie sash belt is perfect for adding luxury and drama to any outfit. Tied into a dramatic bow as seen at Krizia is great for evening whilst a waist defining D&G scarf in a bold print is perfect for day. As glamorous as it is relaxed, it may just be the perfect belt for summer.

salvatore ferragamo

Emilio Pucci

krizia

moschino bottega veneta

Soft Knots

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rochas

nina ricci

lanvin

oscar de la renta

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ralph lauren

Itty Bitty

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bottega veneta

vanessa bruno

valentino

A parade of petite clutches was seen on the runways from Ralph Lauren to Nina Ricci these past Fashion Weeks. Our hearts melted when we spotted such miniature creations, hand held and brimming with craftsmanship and style. Embellished at Oscar de la Renta and with an added tail at Vanessa Bruno, we defy you to not find a teeny new bag irresistible.

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hermes mark fast

michael kors

mark fast sass & bide

Call of the Wild

sass & bide

viktor & rolf

matthew williamson

Take inspiration from the world around you with these new accessories inspired by nature. Wooden bangles look great stacked up your arm as seen at Mark Fast. Feather trims are as beautiful as they are dramatic when hanging from a tribal necklace like this one from Matthew Williamson and if all else fails, stick to a neutral clutch inspired by Viktor & Rolf.

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Desired

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The Rare Necessity Devi Kroell

uestion. Do you sometimes find it difficult to catch hold of that one mysterious piece each season that sets you apart from the rest? Introducing Devi Kroell, the New York-based designer who, from his discrete East Hampton boutique obtained a secret society-like following that we’re now letting you in on. When he began in 2005, Kroell provided the city’s ‘in the know’ with super lavish handbags and shoes that reached above and beyond traditional connotations of luxury. This season, Kroell continues in the same manner with a bag collection devoid of any hardware or logos, only

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offering the finest quality and an understood style without a need to show-off. The exotic materials of the Beluga clutch, the Hobo and Wooden clutch are recognisable only to those with a knowledgeable eye for finery and exceptionality. ‘We strive to source the highest quality innovative materials from around the globe and pair them with flawless Italian craftsmanship and a New York edge,’ says the designer, ‘our customer is a welltravelled woman with a discerning eye.’ Inclusive of precious stones and rare woods, the contemporary bags in any of their exquisite shapes and colours are a definite for astute style.

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Bending the Rules Fernando Jorge

ewellery forms part of a woman’s skin and essence. It’s the armour that she puts on in the morning and the glimmer of gold or silver that she looks towards when in need of a gentle reminder of the love that gifted it to her. Therefore the perfect jewel should move with you, sitting naturally on your skin as if it’s been there since the beginning of your time. Fernando Jorge’s Fluid Diamonds collection does just that. Inspired by the relaxed and sensual attitude of his home country Brazil, the designer introduces fluid lines and infused shapes creating rings, earrings and necklaces that move along

with your body. Using materials found in Brazil, 18kt gold snake chains engulf vivid diamonds. Then, aquamarines and chrysoprases are cut using the latest in specialised craftsmanship to create the delicate and free shapes. In particular, the fluid diamonds framed milky aquamarine set as showcased above– including a ring, earrings and necklace – is the perfect set to accompany you through the spring. The milky stone is fresh and neutral, uplifted by its frame of diamonds and 18kt yellow gold. When worn, the pieces move in motion with your body and offer a sense of fluency and style completion.

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Desired

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City Inspired

Madhuri Parson

ubai, Dubai! That was the city in mind for designer Madhuri Parson when creating her latest high jewellery line. The diamond energy, golden streets and glitzy society life were inspiration for the designer when creating a stunning line worthy of any woman’s attention. Parson is an intricate designer who creates small and covetable lines for private clients consisting of professional women and fashion stylists across the world. ‘This line is to celebrate women of all ages for their inner and outer beauty,’ said Parson, ‘the pieces are symbolic of and revel in a

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woman’s complex emotions.’ The 18k rose gold and diamond collection – including cocktail rings, necklaces and earrings – is dynamic and astute with a timeless elegance. Collection highlights are rings precisely set with pave diamond rows, overlapping one another to form geometric patterns and fresh water pearl and diamond tassel pendants. Each design is mirrored on and perfectly matches up to the outstanding architecture and picture-perfect look of the metropolitan that is Dubai. Visit Madhuri Parson this season for jewellery as spirited as the life you lead and the city you reside in.

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Rainbow heels

brian atwood

rian Atwoodâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s shoes are not for the faint hearted. A champion of unadulterated glamour, his shoes have graced the feet of celebrities all over the world including Rachel Zoe, Demi Moore, Anne Hathaway, Blake Lively, Cameron Diaz and Diane Kruger. The former model knows full well the power of a great accessory, and ever since launching his line in 2001 a distinct approach to marketing has seen his line remain at the top of every starletâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s shopping list. For spring summer 2012 Atwood has taken inspiration from summer escapes and created the perfect holiday shoe collection. Unleash your love of riotous colour with our

favourite four from the collection in a delicious pastiche of lime greens, fuchsia and tangerine. With one glance we are transported to Mykonos, Santorini or St. Tropez, cruising through the turquoise waters during the day and dancing cliff side at night under the stars. These are shoes that were made to be seen and will add a glamorous touch of party girl to your summer ensemble. The Bellini T-bar platform has a distinct Bianca Jagger vibe, whilst we can imagine Sienna Miller dancing a night away in Ibiza in a pair of the Capricious pink and orange sandals. Throw away your tired espadrilles and inject a dose of colour into your vacation footwear.

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The Super Shades

Miu Miu

e say sunnies are one of the most important investments of the year. No longer worn merely to shield out the glaring sun, the must-have accessory has become as, and if not more, important than the ‘it’ bag or ‘it’ shoe of the season. For the latest trends, look no further than Miu Miu. The fashion house has spent the past years carving out a strong and sophisticated identity for itself. Yes, it may be in the same fashion family as Prada, but it has carefully defined itself as a fashion line with its own distinct character and style

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far from its big sister. Look to this season’s powerful Silmo eyewear – designed with the ’40s in mind – in order to project your own sense of self-assurance and style from day to day. 01N promotes retro attire, showcasing curvy shapes in varying shades of tortoiseshell, whereas 10N travels the beaten track of vintage in glitters and rubies. 07N break the mold with unconventional shapes and curvy lines, and 09N are the art-deco girl’s best friend in hexagonal shapes and sharp cuts. Whatever the weather, there’s something for everyone at Miu Miu.

Desired

Most

Garden of Jewels

Piaget

ince 1874, Piaget has been the connoisseur in specialist timepieces, creating collections of watches that emphasise great attention to detail, reflect luxury and tell stories of innovation and spirit. By 1960 Piaget’s expression of beauty and luxury expanded into jewellery watches that quickly became the sign of a style conscious woman. This season we’re dazzled by the Garden Party collection watches in 18kt white or pink gold and decorated in brilliant cut diamonds – with some designs reaching upwards of an astounding 668 diamonds in 8.7ct – moulded into stunning

flower shapes and finished with either gold folding or ardillon clasps. The decorative figures reach new levels of elegance, some with mother-of-pearl finishings and others with black or white satin straps. Together with the impeccably shaped flowers, the timepieces make a statement in themselves. Also included in the collection are exquisite examples of Piaget’s Limelight Dancing Light watches, which are built on ballet concepts and the intertwining of gracefully dancing bodies. This season, Piaget creates watches close to works of art, making any timepiece investment an easy decision.

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Shore Thing

penchant for Riviera style is something we will revert back to every summer season and 2012 is no different. As soon as a blue, white and red striped dress walked the runway at Marc by Marc Jacobs we were hooked again. Stick to your French colour palette for a sophisticated getaway wardrobe. Ben Amun’s coloured rope necklace is a nautical favourite while Eugenia Kim’s sailor hat is playful as well as practical. Throw your DVF bat and ball into your azure blue Céline bag and you’re ready for a master class in beachside chic.

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Fruit Punch

lices of colour help us all feel a little brighter and these juicy neons turn every frown upside down. Try a zesty lime coloured satchel with a neutral playsuit or these bubblegum pink Brian Atwood platforms with a white sundress. These accessories are all about frivolous fun whether thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s with a reinvented classic Mulberry Bayswater or a modern jewel from Tom Binns. If youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re not quite ready for such a bright onslaught, try a Christopher Kane scarf or Carolina Bucci necklace and take baby steps towards a brighter season.

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6. Tom Binns | 7. Brian Atwood | 8. Proenza Schouler @ mytheresa.com | 9. Alexander McQueen | 10. Christian Louboutin

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Naturally Wild

afari chic reappeared on the runways this season most notably at Michael Kors where models had relaxed Serengeti-style accessories adorning every limb. Translate this into real life by looking for neutral colours and natural finishes such as these woven wedges from Burberry. Brown zebra print seen on this Mulberry satchel is a fun addition to your new wardrobe whilst this printed scarf from We Are Owls evokes images of glorious sunsets over the African plains. The key to this trend is to choose high-impact separates such as this golden sunburst necklace from AurĂŠlie Bidermann. Each piece should speak for itself as you nod towards the seasonal trends.

1. Michael Kors | 2. Aurelie Bidermann @ mytheresa.com | 3. We are owls @ net-a-porter.com | 4. Mulberry |

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5. Helen Kaminski @ Boutique1.com | 6. Celine | 7. Burberry @ mytheresa.com | 8. Michael Kors | 9. Marni

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Spotlight

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The Summer Shopper

The perfect bag for all your warm weather needs, the summer shopper is a wardrobe staple and this season there are more to chose from than ever before. 3

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n the bid to develop a well-rounded collection the modern woman can run through her handbags with military precision. And yet there is almost always one style missing. Clutch? Check. Tote? Check. Summer Shopper? Invariably when one thinks of a shopper visions of eco friendly market bags come to mind, or their little old lady waterproof versions. However for 2012, designers have recognised the need for a shopper in everyday life and have concocted a host of different styles to choose from. Chic enough to bring to the office and roomy enough to assist with your daily errands, the shopper may just be the most efficient bag you will ever own. 1. celine | 2. Tods | 3. elie saab | 4. victoria beckham |

5. balenciaga | 6. dax gabler | 7. lanvin | 8. carolina

herrera | 9. chloe | 10. devi kroell

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Sieber Fever

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From top to bottom left to right images courtesy of: Gareth Cattermole, Tim Whitby, Ben Pruchnie, Claire R Greenway, Pascal Le Segretain, All Getty.

aroline Sieber, the Austrian-born, London-based stylist’s look is très chic and très enviable. A former accountant, she quickly climbed the style ranks dressing everyone’s favourite British starlet Emma Watson for the red carpet. This brunette beauty is now one of five (Coco’s favourite number) Chanel ambassadors. Lucky girl. Sieber loves to accessorise classics with a twist, calling upon Roger Vivier, Charlotte Olympia, Burberry Prorsum, Olympia Le Tan and of course Chanel for her all important events. Never one to be too girly or trendy, Sieber uses her accessories to individualise a runway look often using contrasting handbags and bondage style shoes to stamp her individuality. Using bags, belts and shoes as contradictions for her designer separates; Caroline Sieber is the accessoriser to emulate.

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From top to bottom left to right images courtesy of: Pascal Le Segretain, Andy Kropa, Chris Jackson, Francois Durand, All Getty.

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The Dynamic Duo

hen it comes to flirty colours it doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t get more feminine than purple and pink. These heavenly hues were seen all over the catwalks most notably in the sugarspun gloriousness that was Louis Vuitton. A lilac bamboo handle bag from Gucci and violet shades from Illesteva are playful when paired with drop pink crystal earrings from Monica Vinader. Embrace your girly side by swapping your basics for pink or purple alternatives. A waist-defining belt from Dolce in pink or a blush-toned clutch from Nancy Gonzalez are easy ways to develop your girly side this season.

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7. Oscar de la Renta | 8. Nancy Gonzalez @ matchesfashion.com| 9. Dolce&Gabbana @ net-a-porter.com

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Jewel Purpose

ine jewels are a thing of beauty and should be carefully considered no matter the season. For spring summer we’re loving the fresh combination of diamonds with pure blue sapphires. A modern take on a classic Fabergé egg sees an encrusted pendant on a ribbon whilst Harry Winston’s drop earrings are sure to be a conversation starter. If you’re more of a purest, try Bulgari’s spectacular starburst necklace or Dior’s rose ring. Clean, colourful and sophisticated, this chic combination will add extra glamour to an all white summer ensemble.

1. Jil Sander | 2. Faberge,Zenaide Sapphire egg pendant locket | 3. Adler , Necklace with diamonds and sapphire | 4. Bulgari, Necklace in white gold and diamonds | 5. Damiani, Vittoriana earrings in white gold and diamonds | 6. Harry Winston, Earrings in oval cabochons and diamonds |

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7. Dior Fine Jewellery, Rose Dior Bagatelle ring in white gold and diamonds | 8. Chanel Fine Jewellery, Secrets dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Orients VĂŠnitienne ring in white gold with sapphire and diamonds | 9. Boodles, Ring in aquamarines, tanzanite, tourmaline and diamond

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Gilt Trip

uch to our delight, in recent seasons gold has replaced silver as an accessory basic. We love the unadulterated glamour and luxury that comes with a gilded accessory and these golden beauties are top of our wish list this summer. YSLâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s heels with golden hardware have a sartorial strength uncommon in most designs and this delicate cuff from Pierre Hardy is definitely a conversation starter. Try a golden tote to instantly update your outfit â&#x20AC;&#x201C; our favourites are this shimmering Marc Jacobs number or this exotic gilded lizard skin holdall from Maia N.

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6. Marc Jacobs @ matchesfashion.com | 7. Charlotte Olympia | 8. YSL @ mytheresa.com | 9. Kotur

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Flash

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Turquoise Treasures

ou know summer has arrived when turquoise makes its appearance on the runways. Renowned as a bringer of good fortune, the beautiful blue hue of this treasured gem makes for a striking lucky charm. Every designer from Kara Ross to Tory Burch to Lanvin has been using splashes of the striking mineral to kick start summer accessorising. When you wear one of these pieces you canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t help but be transported to a fabulous holiday destination. Clear skies and crystal waters awaitâ&#x20AC;Śboth turquoise of course.

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interview

Always Treasured

Sourcing vintage jewellery has emerged as the newest addiction in the modern shopper’s growing list of ‘must haves.’ From runways to street style and red carpets, jewels that tell a tale, that can evoke the mood of a time period and that have history are ultimately more covetable. MOJEH speaks to experts in the field who will help you invest wisely in vintage and accessorise in a completely unique way this season.

ostume jewellery was originally crafted to imitate the precious jewels of the upper class in the early 1920s and ’30s. At that time, fake or imitation jewels were frowned upon and considered bad taste. That was of course until the designers of the time, most notably Coco Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli, began designing purse friendly, seasonal pieces that women could change easily and match to their looks du jour. Suddenly it was chicer to have casually elegant jewels rather than overtly decadent finery. The allure of Hollywood and the red carpet had an indelible effect on costume jewellery in the 1950s, with starlets such as Elizabeth Taylor calling upon designers like Joseff of Hollywood and Kenneth Jay Lane to create special costume pieces for her various social appointments. Costume jewellery became fun and flirty, reminiscent of a passion in the industry at the time. Socialites and stars alike were drawn to heavily embellished,

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playful pieces that accented their jetset lifestyles. The appeal of costume and vintage jewels has been steadily growing this past decade with shoppers carefully investing in signature pieces that have stood the test of time and have become iconic for many. Vintage jewels can be unearthed at auctions and through specified collectors, but for the modern shopper the most efficient place to buy is online. One woman who cottoned on to that fact before most is Lynda Latner, founder of vintagecouture.com, a renowned Toronto based website selling pre-owned vintage clothing and accessories in mint condition. ‘I’ve always been a lover of vintage, to wear and to collect,’ the former housewife explains. ‘In 1998, when the Internet was becoming a part of every household I was intrigued and began to explore ways to

Vintage jewels can be unearthed at auctions and through specified collectors, but for the modern shopper the most efficient place to buy is online.

interview

With vintage and costume pieces gaining notoriety through online stores, boutiques and editorial coverage, the average customer is more educated than ever before.

expand my personal collection. By launching vintagecouture.com, I felt I could attract other collectors looking to buy and sell.’ Latner was right and subsequently tapped into a previously hidden international market for vintage jewellery lovers who had a voracious appetite for legitimate pieces. ‘By specializing in designer jewellery like Chanel and YSL,’ she explains, ‘we have been able to build up a loyal clientele who appreciate our ever-changing supply of their favourite vintage designer pieces.’ The site features vintage jewellery from Hermes, Elsa Schiaparelli and of course Chanel, which continues to generate interest even with celebrities. Latner and her daughter Yael work together on the site and have assisted clients such as the Olsen twins, Linda Evangelista and Nelly Furtado to name but a few.

Accessory

With vintage and costume pieces gaining notoriety through online stores, boutiques and editorial coverage, the average customer is more educated than ever before. One shopper who became an expert in the field is Carole Tanenbaum, whose appetite for vintage jewellery developed into a complete career change. Previously working in the corporate art world for over 20 years, Tanenbaum’s love of vintage jewels came after years of collecting special pieces with her husband. ‘I was overwhelmed by the diversity in design, the colours and combinations (that are not possible in gemstone jewellery), the scale, and the creativity of the jewels I saw,’ Tanenbaum explains. ‘It is the originality of the pieces that interest me specifically.’ The New York-born collector maintains a collection of over 20,000 pieces and is an expert in the field of costume jewellery. Tanenbaum sells her pieces online and through exclusive boutiques around the world from Dubai to London to New York and knows first hand the appeal vintage pieces have

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interview

Accessory

1. 1960’s lemon rhinestone earrings, CHRISTIAN DIOR @atelier-mayer.

com | 2. Brooch, MIRIAM HASKELL from Carole Tanenbaum’s personal

collection | 3. Necklace, CAROLE

TANENBAUM | 4. Gold logo cuff, CHANEL@vintagecouture. com | 5. Bib necklace, CAROLE

TANENBAUM | 6. Diamond brooch, CARTIER @atelier-mayer.com | 7. Spiralled rope earrings, ELSA

SCHIAPARELLI @vintagecouture. com | 8. Gold pendant and chain circa

1985, CHANEL @vintagecouture. com | 9. Brooch set, CHRISTIAN

DIOR @atelier-mayer.com | 10. Cadena burgundy and gold dial watch, HERMES @vintagecouture.com

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on the modern shopper. ‘People today are conscious of what makes a truly original fashion statement,’ she explains, ‘Wearing a vintage piece of jewellery not only keeps you connected to the past, it is a sophisticated way of accessorising. And you can be sure no one else will be wearing the same piece!’ When shopping for vintage pieces there are many designs, eras and designers to choose from. Carmen Haid, founder of ateliermayer.com – a world-renowned vintage boutique in London – sees a steady stream of demand for certain pieces. ‘Popular brands for our clients are Christian Dior, Chanel, Miriam Haskell, Hattie Carnegie, Schiaparelli, Givenchy and Yves Saint Laurent (especially from the haute couture collections),’ she explains. For lesser-known brands Haid recommends scouring for German brands such as Kramer, Grosse and Schreiner. ‘These are great to collect because they manufactured all the Christian Dior jewellery from the 1950s to the ’70s, so each of their pieces have great quality and are coveted worldwide.’

‘Wearing a vintage piece of jewellery not only keeps you connected to the past, it is a sophisticated way of accessorising.’ Carole Tanenbaum warns vintage shoppers to be aware of what they are buying and to do their research. ‘There are so many variables of vintage couture jewellery,’ she warns. ‘Most of what you see was done in mass production, by design houses that specialised in popular, affordable jewellery. The pieces that stand the test of time are the limited production and high-end jewels from these houses,’ she chides. ‘One has to study this or trust knowledgeable people in the field. They will always educate you.’ Latner strongly believes that in the world of real and costume jewellery the signed pieces will retain their value. ‘My personal noncostume jewellery favourites tend to be from the 1950s and 1960s,’ she divulges, ‘designers like David Webb, Seaman Schepps and Tony Duquette, even mid-century Tiffany and Cartier. In costume jewellery the same rules apply: signed is a better investment.’

ith a career that started as a shoe designer at Christian Dior, Kenneth Jay Lane was destined for big things. Single-handedly bringing costume jewellery into the forefront of his glamorous clients’ shopping lists, Lane’s designs have been catching the eyes of the world’s most powerful and influential women for decades. ‘Costume jewellery was basically not worn by very, very fashionable women (except for Chanel) in the ’20s and ’30s,’ he explains, ‘until women such as the Duchess of Windsor, Jackie Kennedy, Diana Vreeland, etc. began wearing my designs in the ’60s. I was very fortunate because what I was doing was so very new,’ he explains. ‘The New York Times did an article on my first collection, after which I was selling in every major store in New York within one month.’ Lane moved in an elite circle of fashion aristocrats including Jackie Kennedy, Fulco di Verdura, Babe Paley and Audrey Hepburn. His crowd of jet-setting 1960s socialites fed directly into his design aesthetic, requesting long earrings that brushed the shoulder, armfuls of paved bangles and glistening diamante

belts. Costume jewellery at the time was in Lane’s words, ‘jewellery to give the maid,’ but his exquisite replicas of brands such as Cartier, Van Cleef and Tiffany’s gained notoriety. In the 1970’s KJL, as they were affectionately known, became the ultimate compliment in the industry – you weren’t anybody unless Kenneth Jay Lane copied you. Mixing real and faux pieces were the look du jour and Lane’s pieces stood out for their weightiness, vibrant design and intense selection of colours and stones. ‘Costume or fashion, jewellery can either be a duplicate of precious jewellery or fashion fantasy,’ Lane explains. ‘It can be worn to “fool the eye” or make an obvious fashion statement. It is ideal for travel since it needn’t be insured. Even Elizabeth Taylor had KJL costume jewellery along with her fabulous diamonds.’

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Arguably one of the most important designers in costume jewellery, Kenneth Jay Lane speaks exclusively to MOJEH about his proliferation in the industry and his famous clients including Elizabeth Taylor, Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis and Diana Vreeland.

interview

A trip down memory Lane

Lane’s original pieces from the ’50s and ’60s are now highly sought after collectables selling at Christie’s and Sotheby’s for extraordinary amounts. His snake bracelets designed for his friend Marella Agnelli, Cartier-inspired big cat jewels and of course his faux pearls favoured by Barbara Bush are among the most in demand to this day. His new designs are available from neta-porter.com and symbolise the skill and imagination of this gifted jeweller. ‘The one style I consistently emulate is art deco,’ enthuses Lane. ‘I also love late 18th and 19th century ideas but I try to update rather than copy them. From the new collection I particularly like some new, rather bold, slightly cubist-inspired cuff bracelets.’ Kenneth Jay Lane has been at the forefront of costume jewellery for the best part of 60 years and, with his continued success, it seems this designer has no intention of stopping. As he himself put it, ‘I like to think that my jewellery makes ladies smile and that it makes them happy.’

5 1. The Duke and Duchess of

Windsor | 2. Carolina Herrera and

Kenneth Jay Lane | 3. Gunmetalplated Swarovski crystal ring | 4. Studded 22-karat gold-plated cuff |

5. 22-karat gold-plated crystal snake bracelet, all Kenneth Jay Lane available @net-a-porter.com

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Endless Sands Photographed by federico de angelis Styled by DONATELLA MUSCO

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Multicolour swimsuit, Missoni | Rafia sandals, Charlotte Olympia

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Leather and stud necklace, Delfina Delettrez | Orange sweater, ChloE

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Orange sweater, ChloE | Green leather belt, Nina Ricci

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Leather fringed belt, Azzedine Alaia

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Multicolour pumps, Christian Louboutin | Leopard print bag, Mulberry

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Orange raffia clutch and flower necklace, Paule Ka

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Red bow clutch, Valentino | Red and turquoise clutch, Vivienne Westwood

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Affairs of the Estate, photographed by Federico De Angelis, Issue 4

Raw Canvas, photographed by Gulia Noni, Issue 6

Glamour Cruise, photographed by Greg Gex, Issue 2

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Through Rose-Tinted Glasses, photographed by Giulia Noni, Issue 4

A Picture Perfect Winter, photographed by Tracey Morris, Issue 5

The Vault, photographed by Simon Upton, Issue 1

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Stuck on Me

ho said weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re too old for fancy dress? Certainly not Fendi, Jean Paul Gaultier or Givenchy as they thought well outside of the box, decorating models in anything from stick-on plastic gems to glued gold and silver foil. This trend is all about your imagination so look further than the makeup counter and visit the fancy dress shop for your sequins, diamonds and gold leaves.

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Big and Beautiful

ushy brows have been making a comeback in recent seasons and this springâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s models are further inspiring us to reach entirely new levels of thickness. At Christopher Kane and Erdem we saw gravity-defying brows with upward stroked hair, whilst Giles created perfect angles and Proenza Schouler couldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t decide which way to brush. Invest in the right tools for the perfect brows. 8

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Be My Baby

ach season the natural and dewy look finds its new form and this time designers, namely Louis Vuitton and Dolce&Gabbana, are showcasing it with the baby doll vibe. Think natural skin with an emphasis on shiny pink lips and fluttery upper lashes, so thick and long that the word adorable doesn’t even cut it. MAC’s Full Lash curler teamed with DiorShow mascara is a winner when creating the look.

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Image courtesy of Andrew H. Walker/Getty.

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Bright Lips

hink exotic getaways when choosing your lip stain in oranges and pinks for hot summer nights that last until the sunrise. The key is not to be afraid of colour â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the brighter the better as seen at Jason Wu, Rick Owens and Mary Katrantzou. YSL, Shiseido and Bobbi Brown cater to the playful trend perfectly for lips that do the talking.

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trends

Precious Metals

spot of metallic shine on the eyes can pack a punch at any occasion, day or night, as seen at Mark Fast and Sass & Bide. Use highly pigmented shadows from Nars, Dior and Illamasqua to layer it up for high voltage shine or keep it minimal with one single sweep of shine.

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Hair

Building Braids

air backstage, on the catwalk and on the streets was almost always braided to some sort of perfection, as different versions of the traditional plait – from fishtail to French to halo – became a hairdresser’s best friend. Make sure you have your tail comb and plenty of versatile hold hairspray at the ready!

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Undercuts

ver been tempted to try the edgy rocker-chick look and shave a section of your hair? For 2012 you can â&#x20AC;&#x201C; without even going near a razor. Whether the hair is long, short or mid-length, use wax spray, rough paste and a good old back combing brush to slick back and hide sections of your hair so tightly you get all of the effects with none of the commitment.

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Wet Effect

n keeping with this season’s aquatic theme, wet-look hair ruled the runways from Helmut Lang to Alexander Wang and even fashion’s most prim and proper Victoria Beckham. To keep your locks looking wet all day long, reach for Bumble and bumble and Kiehl’s for sculpting gel that will last all day. 7

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One word: BIG

ake inspiration from Marie Antoinette and build a nest of hair big enough to hide all your secrets, as seen at Fendi, Jil Sander and Diane Von Furstenberg. The ideal look leaves no free-flowing hair around the face; instead, every single strand is used to create the glamorous up-do. Bigger is better this season so build up your barnet with lashings of dry shampoo and hairspray.

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To Dye For

esigners used the models’ hair as a canvas this season as bright and upbeat injections of colour burst on the runways. This trend allows you to channel your inner artist from Thakoon’s pink braids to Peter Som’s tangerine streaks. Alternatively, keep it monochrome with a simple stripe of black as seen at Gucci.

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Retro Curls This season the hair maestros backstage at the spring summer catwalks took inspiration from silver screen actresses with modern interpretations of old Hollywood classics.

Oribe, Smooth style serum

Double hair prong clip

Ginger Rogers

Jean Harlow

Barbara Hutton

Barbara Stanwyck

TresEmme, Heat defence spray

Dior

Mark Fast

The icon

lamorous updos were seen at Dior where the hair was neat without looking too obsessive. For this soft style, set the hair in medium-size hot rollers preparing the lengths first with a heat defence spray. Once the rollers cool, brush the curls out, set a deep side part and tease the hair slightly at the crown. Then, sweep everything to the side to create the dip in the front and use pins to secure the ends in a tight chignon at the nape. For a more modern interpretation as seen at Mark Fast, follow the steps outlined above except use your smallest roller for the front section of your hair to give it a tight wave and leave it loose around your face. Finish with a glossing spray and voila!

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Percy & Reed, Session hold hairspray

From left to right images courtesy of: John Springer Collection/Corbis, Bettmann/CORBIS, Hulton-Deutsch Collection/CORBIS, Bettmann Corbis.

Fashion loves to look to the past for ways to reinvent the classics and this season is no different. The world’s top hairstylists looked to starlets of the ’30s and ’40s for inspiration with Jean Harlow and Ginger Rogers coifs recreated on every catwalk from Dior to Marios Schwab and Rodarte. Here we show you how to recreate the top THREE modern interpretations of retro style curls and waves.

Feature

Hair Hot Tools, Professional Spring Curling Iron

Anna Sui

Bobby pins

Mathew Williamson

Soft waves

ecreating this fabulous ’40s wave is easier than you think. To start, prep your hair with mousse, we recommend Sebastian Mousse Forte. Work it into damp hair and blow dry upside down for added volume. Create a side parting with a wide tooth comb and add rollers in diagonal sections from your crown. Using the smallest rollers around your face, start with your side parting and set the rollers from the roots. The rest of your hair should be set with larger rollers, keeping the roots flat and only curling the ends of the hair. When your hair is cool, gently brush it out to create a swooping wave near the crown and soft curls at the ends.

Leonor Greyl, Styling spray

Jeremy Scott

Sebastian, Mousse Forte

Rodarte

The modern starlet

he screen goddess got a 21st century update at Rodarte and Jeremy Scott with a touch of rock and roll chic to the models’ hair. At Rodarte a single glamorous curl was worn with a deep side parting and lengths that were loose and unfinished. Use a few bobby pins or a hair comb to get a clean sweep of hair up and off the face. Then, lightly curl the lengths of your hair and use your fingers to separate them for a nonchalant edge. If you’re feeling more adventurous, channel the Jeremy Scott girls, rolling hair into loops secured with pins for extra volume on the crown. Tease and backcomb the crown section and pin the lengths to the roots to create a modern quiff. Secure the ends in a side pony and finish with a glossing spray for rockabilly cool.

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Alberta Ferretti

Les Copains

Caramel Contours

Every summer season it seems the beauty aficionado is affronted with an enormous selection of bronzers and shaders promising a tanned, taut visage. This summer, kick your beauty skills up a notch as we show you how to shade and illuminate like a pro and change your face shape in ways you never thought possible.

Adam Ham

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ccording to Tom Ford, we are all attracted to a symmetrical face. Above anything else – hair, teeth, skin – a face that looks symmetrical is the most attractive feature to both men and women. It seems he is not alone in the race to contour perfection. Hollowed cheeks and gleaming skin were seen at Valentino, Alberta Ferretti and Diane Von Furstenberg on the spring summer 2012 catwalks. We’re all familiar with the sun-goddess look achieved with bronzing the areas of your face the sun naturally hits – the top of the cheekbones, the temples and along the bridge of the nose. This season things are taking a more aesthetic turn with contouring replacing bronzing. At the spring summer shows makeup artists were seen artistically creating contours and crafting the perfect facial symmetry with a host of essential products. Here we teach you how to achieve gorgeous caramel contours at home.

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1. Mac, Blush brush 116 | 2. Dolce&Gabbana, The Illuminator powder in Shimmer | 3. Tom Ford, Shade and Illuminate cream duo

| 4. Cinique, Up-lighting liquid illuminator in Bronze | 5. Rouge Bunny Rouge, Highlighting liquid in Sea of clouds

Feature

Beauty Thierry Mugler

Etro

DVF

Step one: Building on your base of primer and foundation, your first step is to use a bronzer to define your cheekbones. We like Tom Ford’s Shade and Illuminate cream duo compact that goes on with a flat brush and can be built up to define razor-sharp cheekbones. Starting at your hairline, draw a line under your cheekbone following the natural hollow of your cheek. Using your brush, blend it all along the underside of your cheek so you are left with what looks like natural shading. To prevent your contouring from looking fake, respect the integrity of your skin tone and only go one shade darker than your natural tone with your cream or powder bronzer. Step Two: Using your chosen bronzer, define your chin, the sides of your nose and the hollows of your temples from the edge of your eyebrow up to your hairline. Be sure to blend thoroughly. There should be no visible lines, and the result will be a softly contoured visage. Step Three: Illuminator is used to enhance the areas of your face that help you look your most youthful and plump. There are literally hundreds of liquid and powder highlighters on the market to choose from. We’ve found that liquid is the most versatile with Rouge Bunny Rouge’s Highlighting Liquid a firm favourite. Dab your chosen highlighter onto cheekbones, the centre of your eyelids, inner corners of the eyes and the bow of the lips. If you prefer powder, Dolce&Gabbana’s Shimmer is a favourite of the Kardashians and gives a healthy radiance that defines your features perfectly. Choose a highlighter that is free of obvious glitter particles so your glow looks as natural as possible. Step Four: Take a step back from the mirror and assess your work. You are trying to balance your features so conceal and highlight where needed to optimize your facial symmetry. Take your time, and build your colour slowly assessing your work after each step. You should be contoured in the right areas with a healthy glow that illuminates your best features. Mascara and a nude-coloured lipstick or gloss are the finishing touches to this healthy and radiant new summer look.

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1. Shiseido, Bronzing powder in Dark | 2. Giorgio Armani,

Blender brush | 3. By Terry, Pinceau joues angle brush | 4. Make Up For Ever, Uplight face luminizer gel in Dewy golden warm | 5. MAC, Bronzing powder in Matte bronze

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Knight in Shining Armour When your client list includes Naomi Campbell, Gisele Bundchen, Lara Stone, Cate Blanchett, Kate Winslet, Madonna and Diana Princess of Wales, there’s little introduction needed. Sam McKnight is one of the most powerful men in the hairdressing industry behind celebrities, campaigns, editorials and fashion shows such as Chanel, Valentino and Armani. Here, exclusively with MOJEH, he talks the ’80s, the supers and the defining power of hair. You’re known as one of the first session stylists in the industry, being paid for individual jobs as opposed to working in a salon. How do you think that term has changed since you started in the ’80s to now? The term ‘‘session’’ has not changed but the industry has. Everything is much bigger, more serious and more demanding than before. You have to be prepared for anything now; it is not just doing one or two hairstyles like before.

Paul Smith and his family were some of your first clients. Who else have you had a longstanding relationship with since you began hairdressing? Patrick Demarchelier, Yasmin Le Bon, Linda Evangelista and Naomi Campbell to name a few.

Your time at the Molton Brown salon gave you a strong foothold with the magazines of the moment, most notably British Vogue in the late ’70s. What do you remember fashion being like at that time?

Everything on shoots was much simpler then. There were no assistants and you would go on a trip for two weeks for one fashion story. Now you shoot that in one day! Everything was shot on film as opposed to digitally. Things were more spontaneous then where as now they seem more controlled.

You struck out on your own and moved to New York in 1982, working with hugely influential fashion photographers like Irving Penn, Bruce Weber and Patrick Demarchelier. What was it like to start working with these great men? The early ’80s were exciting times. It was a new era and to work with these incredible photographers was quite daunting.

How did the work differ in New York to the work you were doing in London previously?

The standard of models, photographers, etc. was much higher in New York than in London at this period. Therefore it elevated my work to a much higher level.

Did you have any disasters in some of your earlier work? Sometimes the disasters are what make the triumphs!

Was there a core group of you who worked consistently at that time? I worked a lot with makeup artists Linda Cantello and Mary Greenwell and photographers Dennis Peel, Patrick Demarchelier, Bruce Weber and Steven Meisel and of course the supermodels Christy (Turlington), Linda (Evangelista) and Naomi (Campbell).

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Backstage at the Chanel RTW SS12

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‘You have to have good people management skills to be able to communicate with your team and direct them, and of course speed!’

Chanel SS12

Your work for live fashion shows has included Chanel, Balmain and even Victoria’s Secret. Does it require a different skill set than session styling?

I have always done shows and I actually started doing The Emmanuel’s and Katharine Hamnett in the early ’80s – it was just part of what I did along with the photo session work. You have to have good people management skills to be able to communicate with your team and direct them, and of course speed!

Which models do you look forward to working with?

Kate Moss, Yasmin Le Bon, Naomi Campbell, Lara Stone, Freja Beha Erichsen and Linda Evangelista.

What have been your most memorable shows to date?

Vivienne Westwood’s shows from the ’90s and all the Chanel shows I do today.

You were Princess Diana’s personal hair stylist and often accompanied her on her various charity projects and travels. How did you meet her and what impact did she have on your life?

I was introduced to Diana through the British Vogue Editor Anna Harvey. Patrick Demarchelier was shooting her with Anna for a British Vogue shoot, which is how we met. We spent time on various photo shoots and trips around the world; I simply have so many great memories of her. We had great fun together and she had a huge influence on me.

You were the one who cropped Agyness Deyn’s hair into her now famous short blonde crop. How important do you think a new hairstyle is for a woman’s personal transformation?

Backstage at the Chanel RTW SS12

It kick-started Agyness’s career. Even if you’re not in the public eye a new hairstyle definitely draws attention.

Do you think everyone should try a new look every once in a while? Yes, definitely a modern woman’s way is to change.

Whose hair do you think always looks great? Lady Gaga.

What do you think has attributed to your longevity in the industry? Hard work and optimism.

What does the future hold for Sam McKnight? Hopefully lots of good health.

Backstage Mulberry SS12

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‘Even if you’re not in the public eye a new hairstyle definitely draws attention.’ 1

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1. Kate Winslet | 2. Sam and Angela Lindvall | 3. Kate Moss and daughter Lila Grace for Vogue US | 4. Gisele Bundchen | 5. Fendi

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SS12 | 6. Naomi Campbell | 7. Vivienne Westwood SS11 | 8. Lara Stone

for W Magazine 2011 | 9. Sam and Agyness Deyn | 10. Dsquared2 SS11

From left to right images courtesy of: Frazer Harrison/Getty, Scott Wintrow/Getty, Andrew H. Walker/Getty.

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From top to bottom: Philosophy, Raspberry sorbet shampoo, shower gel and bubble bath, Philip B, Rejuvenating oil @Harvey Nichols, Laura Mercier, Secret camouflage concealer, Vaishaly, Night nourisher oil, Maison Francis Kurkdjian, Aqua Universalis forte fragrance.

ith more and more beauty lines on the market, you canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be blamed for not knowing which way to turn when it comes to your skincare regime. Looking towards brands created by skilled experts in their fields - from dermatologists with decades of experience to the makeup artists of the original supers - is a reliable path to choose and will always make for a more comfortable beauty investment. Remember, be kind to your skin and your skin will be kind to you!

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Expert Advice

PHILOSOPHY Founded by skin care expert Cristina Carlino, the body care range celebrates the beauty of the human spirit and captures fun, frolics and over 40 years of knowledge in a bottle. *Star Product: Ra s p b e r r y Sorbet Shampoo, Shower Gel and Bubble Bath.

PHILIP B The exceptional hair care treatments brought to us by Philip B have garnered international praise and in turn morphed our hair into luxurious and radiant looking locks. *Star Product: Rejuvenating Oil.

LAURA MERCIER This international makeup artist holds a firm place in the hearts of women everywhere and your face will thank you for investing in her light-asa-feather skin powders. *Star Product: Secret Camouflage Concealer.

VAISHALY The expertly devised face lines have earned Vaishaly a following that includes Elle Macpherson, Sophie Dahl and Meg Ryan. Her ranges offer continual rejuvenation, proof of which is evident in the faces of these radiant women. *Star Product: Night Nourisher Oil.

FRANCIS KURKDJIAN After creating fragrances for every well-known house, including Dior and Armani, a custom scent by the fragrance maker is a risk-free way to obtain that perfect aroma. *Star Product: Aqua Universalis Forte Eau de Parfum.

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After discovering and being affected by the harmful toxins in some cosmetic lines, makeup artist Rose-Marie Swift programmed a line of organic and professional products that are both beautiful and kind to our bodies…perfect! *Star Product: Cream Shadow in Magnetic.

KATE SOMERVILLE Every LA beauty from Paris Hilton to Jessica Alba visits Somerville’s clinic for screen-perfect complexions. Try her gentle face care range for that same radiant skin. *Star Product: Gentle ExfoliKate Gentle.

NARS Ever wonder where the original supermodels got the flawless and enigmatically beautiful faces that placed them on the front covers of every magazine? From Francois Nars who believed that makeup should not be a mask, and that a woman’s beauty should shine through. As a result he developed his own line to make this ideal obtainable. *Star Product: Blush in Orgasm.

FREDERIC FEKKAI DR. BRANDT Helping his patients sculpt younger skin without invasive procedures is the key to Dr. Brandt’s success. He pioneered and perfected the majority of his lines himself. *Star Product: Time Arrest Laser Tight.

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Combining highly efficacious ingredients for every hair type makes it simple to find your perfect daily shampoo and conditioner at the Frederic Fekkai counter. *Star Product: Salon Technician Colour Care Shampoo.

From top to bottom: RMS, Cream eye shadow in magnetic @ cultbeauty.co.uk, Kate Somerville, ExfoliKate gentle exfoliating treatment @spacenk.co.uk, NARS, Blush in Orgasm, Dr. Brandt, Time arrest laser tight cream, Frederic Fekkai, Technician colour care shampoo.

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RMS

Body

Icon

Body of Work With a client list featuring the best celebrity bodies in Hollywood, Bobby Strom is arguably the most in demand personal trainer in LA Scarlett Johansson, Jessica Biel, Jennifer Lopez and this month’s Body Icon Blake Lively have all been under Strom’s tutelage to achieve unparalleled physiques. Exclusively for MOJEH, Bobby tells us the secrets of his clients and how to achieve Blake’s killer bod.

“Blake initially trained to gain strength. She only wanted slight toning since she liked her long lean body.”

What is your workout mantra?

Commitment and consistency along with intensity provide results!

How do you encourage new clients to commit to your workouts?

They have to commit otherwise they are no longer considered my clients. There is no in between with me.

How did you begin training the many celebrities you now have as clients?

I started in 1994 in LA in the same gym I’m in now. At that time there were maybe 20 trainers in Hollywood so, as the market grew and celebrities needed our services, it was easy to see who the better trainers were. Now there are 270 trainers in that same gym. It’s too hard to shine through those numbers so now you need the connections!

What kind of routine does Blake Lively maintain?

She initially trained to gain strength, specifically muscle and core strength. She only wanted slight toning since she liked her long lean body. We did a circuit of around 10 exercises two to three times around.

What are some of Blake’s favourite exercises?

She likes standing one-leg superman’s, sumo squats with dumbbell shoulder presses and side-to-side jumps. Actually she doesn’t like any of them.Haha!

What areas did she specifically want to target when she came to you? She wanted to work on her core, legs and arms.

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From top to bottom images courtesy of: Larry Busacca/Getty, Dominique Charriau/Getty, Ethan Miller/Getty, Michael Loccisano/Getty.

Blake Lively

Icon

Body Scarlett Johansson

Jessica Biel

Jennifer Lopez

What are the challenges of training a celebrity as opposed to an everyday client?

It can be difficult when you have a limited amount of time. Sometimes celebrities only find out weeks in advance that they need to change their bodies for a role.

What are the best exercises for a flat stomach?

Hanging leg lifts are a killer but honestly stomach is all DIET!

How would you encourage our readers to get strong arms like Blake?

From top to bottom images courtesy of: Craig Barritt/Getty, all other images by Jason Merritt/Getty.

You need to do resistance training to build them. It can be weights, bands or even your own body weight by doing tricep dips.

Blake, Jennifer, Scarlett and Jessica all have amazing legs. What’s your secret?

I make sure I do some leg exercises in every workout with my female clients even when we work out six days a week. It’s important because what do you notice when one of my female clients comes walking down the red carpet? Their legs!

How important is nutrition in your routines? Nutrition is 98% important.

What nutritional plan do your celebrities follow?

I remove dairy, fried and fast foods. There is no sugar, or starches like bread. They eat lean protein, good complex carbs like brown rice and vegetables and essential fats like olive oil.

For women trying to kick start their fitness routines what would you encourage them to start doing today?

Anything! For those who have no time, 15 minutes six days a week is better than the nothing you’re doing now. You can lower your cholesterol and blood pressure through exercise alone without even changing your diet. I’ve done it with clients before who just won’t do the nutrition part of my plan and it works. So just imagine the results you’ll get if you do it all.

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Tried and Tested Offering smoother skin, increased radiance and a younger appearance, some say serums could be the new ‘wonder product’ of the beauty world. We put the most luxurious serums on the market to the test to see if they lived up to the hype.

Lancome Genifique Youth Activator Serum What it promises:

The huge buzz around this new Lancome serum promises visible results in just seven days. Even skin tone, velvety texture and a younger looking visage are touted as the proven results of Genifique.

What it delivers:

The watery serum made application a little tricky but the product had a very pleasant smell. A slight tightening effect was felt upon first application and pore size was reduced after a few weeks of use.

La Prairie, Cellular Radiance Concentrate Pure Gold

The verdict:

What it promises:

Whilst we usually prefer a less liquidy serum, Genefique gave us firmer, softer skin surface after a few weeks with a slight reduction in pore size.

The most luxurious of all our serums, La Prairie’s version uses the ancient medicinal property of gold to give a rejuvenating boost to skin leaving it glowing with vitality and improving its firmness.

What it delivers:

Estee Lauder New Advanced Night Repair Synchronized Recovery Complex What it promises:

The famous little brown bottle is reborn with a new complex specifically targeting night time repair. It promises to repair visible damage from environmental stresses such as pollution and smoking.

What it delivers:

Fine lines specifically on our tester’s forehead were visibly reduced and overall the skin on the face had a renewed glow. It goes on easily but our dry skin reviewers definitely found a need for a moisturiser on top, as there was an immediate tightening effect that left skin vying for a comforting moisturiser.

The verdict:

After one week of use on face and throat the skin had a renewed radiance. Although skin felt slightly dry, the overall smoothing of the skin’s surface and blurring of fine lines made a great impact making this new formulation from Estee Lauder highly commendable.

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This incredibly rich cream had a luxurious feel and melted into skin leaving it instantly more radiant. The tiny gold flecks immediately make skin glow and are a glamorous touch to our skincare routine.

The verdict:

The glamorous packaging and gold flecks make this serum visually gorgeous. Although it did add an instant radiance to the skin’s surface, it’s concentrated formulation meant oily or combination skin should apply sparingly. The gold infusion made it a radiant base for makeup and definitely made an impact.

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Dior Capture R60/80 XP Ultimate Wrinkle Restoring Serum What it promises:

To combat the first signs of wrinkles and restore exhausted skin to youthful radiance.

What it delivers:

Silky and easily absorbed, skin’s radiance was boosted from the first application. With daily use fine lines had visibly diminished with our glowing skin receiving compliments after one week. The overall tone and feel of our skin was improved resulting in a smoother complexion. We discovered it acts as a great primer for moisturiser and helped our makeup last the whole day too.

The verdict:

We were delighted with the quick results and even happier that people noticed within weeks. Whilst radiance was definitely boosted we think older skin would benefit highly from the filling and firming effects of this luxury serum.

Sisley Sisleya Global Firming Serum What it promises:

The newest anti-aging serum from Sisley promises to firm skin and lift sagging spots including the neck and cheeks. A step-by-step massaging technique was included to ensure optimal results.

What it delivers:

Chanel Hydra Beauty serum What it promises:

The ‘haute couture’ of hydrating serums, Hydra Beauty serum claims to be designed for all skin types to moisturise intensely and leave skin smooth, comfortable and plumper.

The fresh and velvety texture is very easy to apply and we found the step-by-step guide a great tool for applying our moisturiser afterwards also. After a few weeks of use, radiance was enhanced and there was an immediate tightening effect on the face and neck.

What it delivers:

The verdict:

This richly moisturising serum was best used once a day for sensitive skin. Our tester found no need for a heavy moisturiser on top as the serum was enough on it’s own to ward away dryness. Best suited for normal to combination skin after using this Chanel serum skin feels and looks energized, soft and comfortable.

This serum was very easy to use and skin was visibly smoother and firmer after a few weeks of use. Skin also emerged tighter and plumper than before. Moisturiser was a must afterwards to combat dryness but overall texture and radiance was improved making Sisley’s serum perfect for mature skin.

On first application the serum made our skin appear bright and fresh. Upon using day and night, the great smell and velvety texture made for an enjoyable application.

The verdict:

Clinique Repairwear Laser Focus Serum What it promises:

This serum claims to be a de-aging, highly potent formulation with results akin to those of a laser without having to book an appointment with the dermatologist.

What it delivers:

For the first week our skin was dry and flakey – almost like it was undergoing a mini Microdermabrasion. In the following weeks a new radiant layer of skin was revealed and fine lines on the forehead and around the eyes were noticeably blurred.

The verdict:

We had heard gleaming reports of this Clinique serum and we’re happy to say after testing it for ourselves we too are big fans. Apart from the adjustment period early on, the results were a smoother, cleaner and more even-toned complexion with reduced lines.

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Je T’aime Moi Non Plus, photographed by Raphael Delorme & Thierno Sy, Issue 6 Paris Blanc Obscure, photographed by Federico De Angelis, Issue 5

70’s, photographed by Giulia Noni, Issue 2

The Angel of Circeo, photographed by Federico De Angelis, Issue 6

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Affairs of the Estate, photographed by Federico De Angelis, Issue 4

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Through RoseTinted Glasses, photographed by Giulia Noni, Issue 4

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The Colliding Nature of Pop Art and Everyday Objects A survey of recent works by Iranian artist Farhad Moshiri

Eshg, 2007

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S54y, 2006

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All images courtesy of the Third Line and the artist.

in residence

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in residence

Artist

8n619vt, 2006

Whenever You See A Lover Think Of Me, 2005

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arhad Moshiri’s works are a hybrid between the old and the new. His oeuvre is far-reaching, encompassing painting, installation and mixed media. Through his art Moshiri brings together traditional Iranian forms and consumerist ideologies often associated with popular culture. Although renowned for his paintings of ceramic jars scripted with Iranian pop songs and consumer slogans, in recent years Moshiri’s works have turned the emphasis back to ‘the process of making.’ Moshiri explains this marked departure with an installation he exhibited in Tehran titled Golden Love Super Deluxe (2002). This cabinet of curiosities consisted of approximately 150 decorative household objects sitting on the shelves of an ornament display cabinet entirely covered in gold leaf. The work, according to Moshiri, was an ironic take on the contradictory notions of indoor and outdoor aesthetics in the Islamic Republic of Iran. By placing household objects in a decorative context, it becomes celebrated, revered. What is interesting is that display cabinets are universal, instantly recognisable and familiar, leading to the question ‘Is this piece art?’ Moshiri explains: ‘Any object, as insignificant as it may seem, carries with it the world and everything in it, becoming the artist’s supply store.’ The emphasis on labour in making is apparent when viewing works like “Mobile talker” (2007). Here, the outline of a female talking on her mobile is created using cake decorations against the backdrop of a three-tier wedding cake. A typical example of the artist’s style, when viewing his works from a distance, the viewer expects a flat image, but on closer inspection, he observes the precision and attention to detail – each dot an intricate design in its own right. It also highlights the labour that goes into creating a work of art and a cake, both consumable goods, each of which can be seen as a luxury, a work of art for its covertness: a cake a celebratory symbol, a treat. “Self portrait on flying carpet” (2009) is mysterious and multilayered. A little boy on a magic carpet is framed by an embroidered jigsaw puzzle piece, which in turn is framed with an explosion

in residence

Artist Shukran installation, 2011

From Above The White Clouds, 2006

of beads and glitter on canvas. It is the stuff of Disney fairytales, but is the boy perhaps the artist as a young boy, contemplating an escape from normality? An extremist by nature, Moshiri pushes his limits to the max but is also a master of simplicity. He is a believer that the best art is the one that says something brilliant with the absolute minimum. Farhad Moshiri, having spent an extensive period of time in California, is distinctly influenced by the American Pop Art aesthetic. Assemblage and the use of everyday materials become more prominent – glitter, embroidery and beads make for more textured canvas surfaces. These details make works more intricate and three-dimensional. The pictures beckon the eye to look more closely as it is not a flat object. This craft approach led to a recent collaborative commission with the luxury brand Louis Vuitton. Moshiri created embroidered window pieces in the store windows of Dubai Mall and The Mall of the Emirates placing his art outside its usual gallery context. Moshiri’s recent works could be understood in terms of the Altermodern, coined by the French curator and theorist Nicolas Bourriaud. He states, ‘Artists are looking for a new modernity that would be based on translation. What matters today is to translate the cultural values of cultural groups and to connect them to the world network.’ Moshiri is more concerned with the side effects of globalisation in the Middle East and toys with what this process leaves behind or simply what gets lost in translation. Born in Iran where he currently lives and works, Farhad Moshiri pursued a Masters in art and film at the California Institute of Art in 1984. An extensive career over 25 years has seen the artist exhibit in group and solo shows internationally in cities like Los Angeles, Dubai, Miami, Rome, London, Sharjah, Barcelona, Berlin, Tehran and Paris. His work is held at the François Pinault Foundation in Italy and some of his prestigious collections can be found at The British Museum, the Virginia Museum of Fine Arts and at The Farjam Collection at DIFC in Dubai.

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Artists

Alsakeena Serenity, Abdul Qader Al Rais, 2011, Courtesy of Hunar Gallery

Art Dubai 2012

As Art Dubai embarks on its sixth year, MOJEH speaks to the people at the heart of the foundation. Now with 74 galleries on show from 32 different countries and yearly additions to the already advanced programme, what is it that makes Art Dubai the leading international fair in the MENASA region? Pieces from the 2012 artists are showcased throughout the pages.

Galeria Ana Maria Stagno, Roberta Matta, Architecture de la Conscience, 2000, Courtesy of Ramuntcho Matta

Between the Lines, Mounir Fatmi, Edition of 5, 2010, Courtesy of Galerie Hussenot

Alexandra MacGilp Biography

Based in London, Alexandra MacGilp is interested in film, video, performance and installation practices and working with archive materials. MacGilp has curated multi-media exhibitions with accompanying talks and performance programmes in London, Hamburg and Kabul, often working as part of a curatorial collective with Cassandra Needham. She contributes regularly to EXIT Express and artvehicle.com, which she co-founded in 2006.

Ghada Al Dabbagh, Art Dubai Projects Coordinator interviews Alexandra MacGilp, 2012 Curator-inResidence, on supporting young artists throughout the fair. Ghada Al Dabbagh is a curator, artist and head of Art Dubai Projects. Alexandra MacGilp is a London-based curator working as Art Dubaiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 2012 Curator in Residence as part of its Artists-in-Residence programme.

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Alexandra MacGilp, Dubai 2011. Courtesy of Deniz Uster

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Artists Allahu Akbar, Agus Baqul, 2011, Courtesy of Agus Baqul and Jogja Contemporary

A.i.R Dubai

A.i.R Dubai is a partnership between Art Dubai (www.artdubai.ae), Delfina Foundation (www.delfinafoundation. com), Dubai Culture & Arts Authority (www.dubaiculture.ae), and Tashkeel (www.tashkeel.org). Taking place from January 8 to April 7, 2012, A.i.R Dubai’s programme includes six artists – plus a curator-in-residence, giving opportunities for artists to make new work, and facilitating exchange between artists based in the UAE and abroad. The curatorin-residence position gives an international practitioner interested in the Gulf the chance to write, research, and develop ideas for future projects that engage with this region.

Being based in Dubai and having visited Sharjah and Abu Dhabi, can you tell us your impression of the UAE art scene?

My first impressions are that there is a lot of energy and ambition and a strong desire for exchange. This is an exciting time to be here. It is notable that women are running the show as artists, curators, coordinators and gallerists. We have been very well looked after by the residency partners, Art Dubai, Dubai Culture and Tashkeel and also warmly welcomed by the Traffic Gallery in Al Quoz. So far, I have seen some excellent photography in the UAE. Personally, I would like to see artists here taking more risks and experimenting with different media, such as sculpture, video, performance and installation.

What motivated you to apply to the Artists-in-Residence (A.I.R) Dubai programme’s open call for curators?

I love discovering a new art scene and was keen to grasp the opportunity to increase my knowledge of the Gulf area and make contact with cultural practitioners here at such a dynamic time in the region’s development. I was attracted to A.I.R Dubai’s ethos of developing and strengthening artistic practice through offering opportunities for exchange, exposure and production to international and Emirati practitioners. I also felt three months away from my busy life in London might allow me the time to reflect and to strategise my next move at a transitional point in my career, but in fact I am just as busy here and loving it!

What does your residency entail? Do you work closely with the resident artists and what outcomes do you foresee? I am here to provide the artists with critical and artistic support by offering curatorial guidance for the artists’ projects at Art Dubai and the Open Studios event during Art Week. I am organising regular meet-ups for all the artists as a forum to learn about each other’s practices and exchange ideas. I hope I can assist in the rapid development of the UAE cultural scene by fostering critical discourse and encouraging experimentation. Alongside this, I will be conducting research into local artists and the art scene in the UAE. I will also be working on my own curatorial projects and I hope the outcome will be to curate an exhibition in Dubai in the future.

What informs your practice as a curator? What types of artists do you usually collaborate with? In my curatorial practice I am interested in artists working in the medium of installation, performance and video, particularly from the Middle East and post-Socialist countries. I am attracted to political practices that deal with issues around feminism or immigration, as well as archive and research-based practices. I also like commissioning site-specific works and developing ongoing relationships with emerging London-based artists and following the development of their work.

Being a curator sounds like the ultimate dream job for an art lover, but what are the challenges? In many ways it is a dream job. Working closely with artists and travelling are the highlights. The hard part is finding funding for exhibitions and paying the bills. There is also a huge amount of administration involved in realising any project. It is never a 9-5, Monday to Friday job and your social life and work life become one and the same but I love it and wouldn’t want to do anything else!

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Bashar Al Shroogi

Zain Masud

The Fairs Assistant Director Zain Masud interviews Bashar Al-Shroogi, Director of Cuadro Fine Art Gallery and member of Art Dubai’s Board of Patrons.

You are both a gallerist and collector; how did you embark on this journey and what have been your impetuses?

I grew up in a family of collectors in an environment where art was very important. Our family would plan trips around biennales, exhibitions and art fairs, so collecting and managing a gallery – although they are separate and different things – came as a natural progression. The gallery again came through my parents as a commitment to set up an educative art space. We turned the conventional model of a gallery on its head to explore how we could further finance education and artist residencies by creating a commercial platform; this is the remit of Cuadro gallery. It was a bold step to set up Cuadro with the scope of work we had in mind, but three years on, the alternative model of our approach to the arts is still developing.

Art Dubai has evolved from a roster of 40 galleries in 2007 to 75 galleries from 32 different countries showing the works of over 500 artists in 2012, plus a new residency programme, extensive projects and a curated section of ‘concept stands’ focusing this year on Indonesia. As an Art Dubai patron, how do you see the development of the fair?

Untitled (Salt Burner), Pier Paolo Calzolari, 1973, Courtesy of Marianne Boesky Gallery, New York

Go south, Abu Dhabi has institutions; north, in Sharjah you have the biennial. Here in the middle you have Dubai, which operates as a commercial hub. We’ve had auction houses, but the impact of Art Dubai is undeniable – you can feel the international following it has through the entire city. In the arts calendar, March is really the time when galleries and entire regions put on their best shows. They understand that it draws an international audience of collectors, and more importantly, museum groups that come from all over the world. Without the fair’s presence, the galleries in the region, future museums that will be here, and the biennial wouldn’t get the curatorial attention that they do.

What has driven you to become a patron and what do you think will encourage more people to make that transition too? Cuadro Fine Art Gallery, Dubai

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My support for the arts stems from my belief that artists and their work act as historical markers. They are the commentators of our times. Their work makes us question the world around us and inspires

in Exhibition

Artists Never Even, Kate Eric, 2011, Courtesy of Frey Norris Contemporary and Modern, San Francisco

change. Artists can change lives in ways that I cannot, so instead I try to provide an environment that empowers them to do so. To create more patrons, the patrons themselves must start speaking to more people in the community. The role of a patron needs to be better highlighted and understood. Being a patron should be about impact – not how much you spend but where you spend it and where those funds can have the most impact. Patrons and private collections are important to the region. In absence of public institutions they are our de facto repositories of culture, the interim custodians of the arts.

What are you most looking forward to at Art Dubai?

The overall vibe that the city takes on in March is led by Art Dubai. The entire city is programmed around the fair. This year with the introduction of Design Days Dubai we will have our first design fair in the region, so now we are marrying art and design. It will be interesting to have not only the art community, but also leaders of the design industry coming in at the same time. I’m looking forward to having some of the most influential people on both sides of the fence – art and design – converging in the city and along with that comes all the talks, conversations, dinners – beyond what you see at the fair. All that makes March so special. On top: Untitled, Gert and Uwe Tobias, Courtesy of the artist and Galerie Rodolphe Janssen. On bottom: Observers of Change 4, Sheikha Lateefa Bint Maktoum, 2011, Courtesy of Tashkeel, Dubai.

ver the last five years, Art Dubai, the leading international art fair in the MENASA region has become a cornerstone of the region’s booming contemporary art community. In 2012 Art Dubai takes place March 21-24 at Madinat Jumeirah and features 74 galleries from 32 countries in addition to a new programme of artist and curator residencies, commissioned projects, performative tours, workshops, the unveiling of the works by Abraaj Capital Art Prize winners and the critically acclaimed Global Art Forum. Art Dubai is held in partnership with Abraaj Capital and sponsored by Cartier. Madinat Jumeirah, on Dubai’s beachfront, is home to the event. For more information and the latest updates, please visit www.artdubai.ae

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Life

in culture

Keira Knightley

The British Beauty on Finding her Way Through the Limelight She’s beautiful, in demand and, thanks to those Chanel ads and a blockbuster or two, wealthier than she cares to show-off about. But as MOJEH discovers, being Keira Knightley isn’t always as easy it looks.

t’s a cold winter morning and Keira Knightley is sitting alone in the library of a central London hotel. She is close to the end of shooting her new film Anna Karenina, in which she stars opposite Aaron Johnson as Vronsky and Jude Law as Karenin. No, she confides, she hasn’t shot the suicide sequence in the train station yet. That is a treat waiting in store for the final day of filming. Knightley is a disconcerting interviewee. She is very pretty in a sylph-like way. Still only 26 (she turns 27 this march), Knightley is friendly, articulate and seemingly unguarded, but quickly makes it clear that there are certain areas where interviewers are forbidden to tread. Miss Jean Brodie-like, she tells you primly that she does not want to discuss her beauty routine or her love life. She doesn’t enjoy reading such tittle-tattle herself and insists that she doesn’t ‘owe the public’ details of who her boyfriend is. However, ask her anything related to her work and she will answer completely frankly. For the first few minutes of the interview, her arms are folded and her body language is defensive. Once she is in her stride, she relaxes. She doesn’t have the usual phalanx of publicists and hangers-on who make interviews with some celebrities such a trial. Instead, Knightley gives the impression that she is far too sensible and self-deprecating to take the business of being a bigname movie star too seriously. The way she tells it, she’s just a hard-working actress from England, who got lucky. ‘If you’re offered the work, you should take it,’ is her mantra. She seems suspicious of her own glamour and is still fatalistic about her future prospects. ‘Within the profession I am in, there is no guarantee of anything,’ she warns. ‘You can make three wrong choices and all of a sudden the parts dry up.’ Given her Oscar and BAFTA nominations and reportedly vast earnings (another subject she is very coy on), there are no prospects of her striking out any time soon. On the one hand, Knightley has learnt to be thick-skinned. On the other, she says that as an actress she needs to be ‘emotionally available.’ That is why she is such a strange mix of spontaneity and reticence. She claims that there

have been ‘many occasions’ when ‘I just sit on the bathroom floor and burst into tears’ as a result of something that may have been written or said about her. ‘Then, there are other days when you go, “OK, it just doesn’t matter. That’s fine.” I think it depends on the day of the week really. ‘I think everybody has the right to a private life,’ she declares. ‘The line is actually quite clear. When you do interviews like this, you present a piece of work, talk about it and hope that maybe the journalist is interested by it in the same way that you were and maybe the public will be interested, too.’ It’s clear that she’d much rather discuss Tolstoy than the media however. She’s a big fan of War and Peace and loves Anna Karenina, too, but is beginning to suspect that the Russian novelist had a hidden agenda when it came to his adulterous heroine. ‘I read the book when I was about 16 and absolutely loved it and thought it was so romantic,’ Knightley reflects on Anna Karenina, ‘but I then re-read it to do this film...it’s interesting coming back to a book when you’ve read it as a younger person and then seeing it through very different eyes because I never thought that Tolstoy hated Karenina, and you really think, “My God, he hates her!”’ Whatever challenges playing Anna Karenina presents, the role is a breeze by comparison with Knightley’s other recent part in David Cronenberg’s A Dangerous Method. Knightley played Sabina Spielrein, a forgotten pioneer in the history of psychoanalysis but one who knew both Carl Jung and Sigmund Freud. At the very start of the film, we see Sabina being carried (kicking and screaming) into the asylum where she becomes one of Jung’s patients – and eventually his assistant and then his lover. ‘Has a hysterical fit. Is ravaged by tics,’ was one of the first lines describing Sabina. This was no Bend It Like Beckham or The Pirates of the Caribbean. To prepare for such a gruelling role, Knightley met both Freudian and Jungian analysts and, for good measure, steeped herself in the works of Friedrich Nietzsche, too. She had Spielrein’s diary translated and paid special attention to a passage in which the former hysteric described herself as being

She seems suspicious of her own glamour and is still fatalistic about her future prospects.

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Image courtesy of Rune Hellestad/Corbis, Geoffrey Macnab / The Independent / The Interview People.

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Clockwise images courtesy of: Pascal Le Segretain/Getty, Toby Canham/Getty, Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty Images for Lancia.

Keira Knightley with the cast and Director of A Dangerous Method at the Venice Film Festival, all 2011.

in culture

Life

in culture

with Bend it Like Beckham, new roles kept coming – and she kept taking them. ‘There was a moment when I thought, “should I step back and go to university or drama school?” Possibly, that would have been a good thing to do but, equally, I thought that if it’s happening now, I’ve just got to jump on if I want to be an actress.’ Has she enjoyed the decade or so since Bend it Like Beckham (2002), which has seen her rise from child actress into the most highly paid British movie star? She strikes an ambivalent note. ‘Like anything, it has been up and down. I’ve had some extraordinary experiences, not all of them happy and quite a lot lonely. In the last half of this decade, it has been incredibly, creatively fulfilling. But the blame is never on anybody else other than yourself if it isn’t enjoyable. You have to find ways of working.’ She has learnt on the job. Now, she is clearly more confident in her own ability than she was at the age of 16. Her stints in theatre – in London stage productions of Molière’s The Misanthrope and Lillian Hellman’s The Children’s Hour – have helped. The ‘loneliness’ that she refers to several times in the course of the interview is no longer such a factor. Directors like Gurinder Chadha (Bend it Like Beckham) and Gillies MacKinnon (who directed her as the young drug addict in Pure) speak of her ‘vitality and confidence’ and of her obvious ‘star’ quality. However, she claims to be paralysed by shyness. ‘That didn’t help.’ In interviews and auditions, she may have appeared confident and precocious, but, as she explains, ‘it’s a completely different thing when you go into a party in a roomful of people. I’ve always found that difficult. I don’t any more but I did when I was younger. The idea of going downstairs at the end of the night when people are going to meet in the bar – I just couldn’t do it.’ As for the fame, that wasn’t easy either. Five years ago, when the fever for Pirates of the Caribbean was at its peak, she couldn’t walk in the streets without being recognised. That doesn’t seem like such a problem today. As she takes more roles in independent and art-house films, the public interest in her has diminished slightly. She doesn’t enjoy parties. ‘I am crap at parties. I tend to sit in the corner. I’ll sit in the corner and find one person to talk to or I’ll go on the dance floor.’ She tries not to read reviews. ‘If you read a good one, you’ll keep going till you find a bad one and then you’ll keep going till you find the worst one possible – and that’s the one that will stick with you.’ If her private life is off-limits – she dated actor Rupert Friend for five years and is currently seeing the Klaxons’ James Righton – so are questions about money. Roles in Jerry Bruckheimer movies combined with her parallel career as the face of Chanel have earned her millions. She is very guarded about how she spends her earnings, saying only that she has ‘a very, very nice flat; that’s about it.’ Back to what we are allowed to discuss, in playing Anna Karenina, she is following in the steps of two of cinema’s greats – Greta Garbo and Vivien Leigh. Will she match up? Knightley parries the question, suggesting that the ‘beauty shots’ are as much the responsibility of cinematographer Seamus McGarvey as they are dependent on her own looks. ‘He knows how to shoot me.’ As for the rest, Knightley claims, it’s simply a matter of ‘a lot of lighting and a hell of a lot of make-up!’

Life

‘like a dog or a demon’. Then, to round off the preparation, she studied Francis Bacon’s painting, Three Studies for Figures at the Base of a Crucifixion, and listened to Stravinsky’s ‘The Firebird.’ What’s impressive about Knightley soldiering through that reading list is that she was dyslexic and still doesn’t find it especially easy to read. She was six at the time her condition was noticed. ‘I tricked them,’ Knightley remembers of hoodwinking her teachers and parents when she was growing up. ‘I would memorise when people read books to me and then I’d pretend to read back to them. They didn’t figure it out for quite a while.’ Through constant tutoring and the intervention of her parents, she was able to overcome the condition. ‘I am a slow reader. I always loved words, which is a strange thing given that I couldn’t actually read them. By the time I was 11, they deemed me to have got over it sufficiently.’ She still can’t sight-read, though. ‘If you gave me something and said, “Read it out loud,” there is something that happens and I can’t really do it.” Few profiles of Knightley fail to mention that, at the age of three, she asked for her own agent. How on earth would a three-year-old know what an agent was? ‘My mum [Sharman Macdonald] is a writer and my dad [Will Knightley] is an actor and agents were always phoning the house and I answered the phone,’ Knightley explains. ‘I don’t think I knew what an agent was but I knew they both had one and it was quite exciting when they phoned up.’ Like most theatrical families, her parents had some tricky moments when the work would run dry. They were broke and living on a diet of lentils, bread and tomatoes when Knightley was born. Her father challenged her mother to sell a script or a play before she had a second child. It was at that point Sharman Macdonald wrote her first – and wildly successful – play, When I Was a Girl, I Used to Scream and Shout. Always mindful of the family finances, Knightley talks about her constant desire as a kid to be ‘useful financially’ and, as she explains, ‘to be not dependent on people... I’ve always wanted to work.’ She was six when her parents finally relented and allowed her to sign up with a children’s agency. ‘I wasn’t allowed to do commercials. I wasn’t allowed to do TV series. I wasn’t allowed to do soaps or basically anything that would mean I missed too much school.’ Her acting was confined to one or two jobs a year in the summer holidays. She didn’t boast about her burgeoning acting career. ‘It was kept very separate. I never said I was going for an audition. It was always that I had a dentist’s appointment.’ She paints a surprisingly gloomy picture of her early years as a film actress. Her mother had led the traditional stage actor’s life: living in digs, working in rep and performing around the country, whereas Knightley found herself far more isolated. ‘Film is a much lonelier process than theatre. You really don’t have any rehearsal time in film. You don’t shape it together... with theatre, there is a complete kind of family atmosphere. The sociable side of this business is the theatrical side, it really isn’t the film side.’ Having seen her parents struggle, Knightley took a very pragmatic approach to her craft. ‘Having parents within the industry, I sort of understood that just because something is offered one day, doesn’t mean it is going to be offered the next.’ She had originally planned to go to university or drama school but after her breakthrough

‘In the last half of this decade, it has been incredibly, creatively fulfilling.’

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The Flashes of Life

How often do you take a second to stand still, breathe and absorb the naturally remarkable moments in life? Not often enough one suspects.

n our recent Talking Points series, MOJEH has posed the questions that come hand-in-hand with the modernised life of a woman. Is social networking morphing us into unrealistic versions of ourselves? Has freedom of speech led to a culture of over-share and when did we forget the importance of inner beauty? This month we’ve taken another decisive step back in order to once more redeem the sometimes lost virtues of urban life. In a series of short stories we embrace the small passings that can in fact make the biggest impacts. That is of course if you take a second to acknowledge them. From nature’s small quirks to sentimental exchanges between people, stories from around the world enlighten our senses once more. This season, make the effort to explore the moments you often miss.

The strength of a girl

A scent is worth a thousand memories

ome choose their scent for the smell, some for the brand, some for the bottle. I choose mine for the memory. As I lift the glass bottle towards my wrist and gently tap the golden nozzle, the miniscule squirt releases an enormity of recollections that remain untouchable, unaltered and only for me. Transcending straight back into heart and mind. The jasmine, lily and sandalwood found in Chanel No5 recalls that intimate moment your mother let you in on the secret power a girl and her fragrance holds. How about the overwhelming feeling of protection and endless wisdom found each time your nose hit the muskier and bergamot embrace of your grandfather? Or the cheap and adolescent, but still entirely seductive smell of the boy with whom you shared your first kiss? A picture may capture a static moment in time, but these scents, our scents, imprison an entire series of events and the people you shared them with.

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From left to right images courtesy of: Image Zoo/corbis, Image Source/Corbis.

t’s a warm, fussy afternoon in a small café at the heart of Italy’s Rome. It’s also the 60 seconds before a boy will have his young heart crushed by the diminutive, but clearly very influential girl sitting across from him. February’s warm shining sun immediately turns into a poisonous glare as the spotlight meets the tender scene. Close enough to hear the exposures, it may as well be white noise, as the couple’s heartbroken faces tell just as good a story. She breaks the news slowly and gently. Her face reads strength and assurance, but her eyes paint bottomless hurt. His head hangs in shame – unsure whether to face her, implore her, or walk away. He attempts to hide from his fate. Unmistakably this boy lives like a tornado, and she regrettably stepped into his path of destruction. But here he meets his end. Small, but very ferocious, she does not allow the hurt read through her eyes to become her be all and end all. He broke her heart but now she mends it on her own.

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Where the Sea Meets the Sand

ast week the drycleaners steamed my satin crepe shirt. Yesterday the barista messed up my coffee order. And tomorrow my boss will challenge me to new heights. But for today, the sea breeze hits my worn and weathered face, fresh air flows back into my lungs and the world stands still for a second as nature’s greatest noise – the gushing of the wild and open sea hitting the tranquil and cushioned desert sand – allows life to run back into my veins. The mass of such barren and unexplored golden sand meeting with an even greater world of undiscovered blue grandness offers a clarity and perspective otherwise lost. As with life, the exploration and opportunity is limitless. I think I may dip my toes into it…if only for a day.

picture perfect

From top to bottom images courtesy of: Sergio Pitamitz/Corbis, Oliver Rossi/Corbis.

n a rain-covered people-famished day, only a mother and daughter are left standing brave on London’s Brick Lane. The pair are too engulfed in their own rhapsody to be fazed by the bitter air. The girl’s infantile, untouched life seeps into her mothers. Absorbing every smile, every giggle and every movement, the mother is wholly and eternally addicted to the life form she placed into this world. The child’s tiny fingerprints will leave an everlasting mark of bliss and infatuation on her creator’s hand. They momentarily pause and sit. The mother pierces a carton of juice and hands it to her ray of light. She devotedly strokes her daughter’s unmarked, golden hair. The picture-perfect vision of unconditional love.

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Fresh faced beauty

The Changing Faces of Concierge

e stand up, intending to exit a New York hotel after an unsatisfying and over priced afternoon tea. Unimpressed so far, and with approximately ten meters until the exit, the opinion has little hope of shifting. Then fulfilment is found in the most unexpected of places: the Concierge. He is an innocent looking man, with a flawless complexion and notably dreamy eyes. Undeniably handsome though he may be, it’s his manner that suddenly places

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the hotel back on the map. Swiftly deciding we’re lost and in need of directions, he becomes our concierge for the next five minutes, instantly dropping the rehearsed aristocratic scent used for the overdressed, uptight and rude woman before us. Adopting a novel manner, more honest, more appreciative and more ‘us,’ his face instantly reads character and most importantly authenticity. Refreshing for both him and us – we perform the changing faces of man.

Images courtesy of: Marc Wuchner/Corbis.

dolce&gabbana

epending on your personality, sitting front row at fashion weeks can conjure a multitude of emotions and wants. As a stream of immaculate dolls flow onto the runways, one may fall into a trance and simply relish the scene of extreme beauty, or one may try and fight those unwanted insecurities that are common place when presented with such splendour. We on the other hand make it our mission to analyse and appraise, looking for that truly extraordinary face in the crowd. As pretty as Christy Turlington, with a highfashion strength seen in Natasha Poly, Josephine Skriver is the new designer darling. Walking for Ralph Lauren, Givenchy and Dolce&Gabbana to name but a few this season, she has enchanted the industry and us here at MOJEH. At the tender age of 19 she has been shot by Rankin and Steven Meisel with fashion insiders transfixed by her supernatural beauty. Long limbed but with a desperately beautiful face, Josephine is a new breed of supermodel who are inspirational and accessible at the same time. As she walks the season, her model glow shines just that little bit brighter in our eyes.

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I got love for you, if you were born in the ’60s

Twiggy

he looks free. Free in mind, body and soul. As she swings, like they did in the swinging ’60s, she’s free from restraint, free from fear, free from convention. One of the lucky ones born into a decade of movement, alteration and spirit. Her leg soars towards the sky, the air through which it moves fresh and unrepressed. Her arms reach towards a future of electrifying uncertainty and unparalleled opportunity. She smiles with a gently dramatic gaze; her thoughts are with her day. Soon the camera will run out of film and she’ll be freed into the wild. At liberty to run through unmarked fields, gracefully indulging the newfound movement of her limbs in that groundbreaking mini dress. She’ll breathe in the clean air of a decade that did not know stress and did not know the rat race. A decade which only new love and life. Those were the swinging sixties. Still…I wonder if they were quite as much fun as the limitless naughties?

Creative coral

alexander mcqueen

Images courtesy of: Bettmann/Corbis.

ater was inspiration for many a collection this spring summer but one that resonated with us was the anemone-inspired gowns at Alexander McQueen. Pleating was random and based on anatomical shapes and waves akin to the predatory sea creatures. Circles of fabric were hand-distressed and sewn in mathematical sequences to give a volume and movement unseen on any other catwalk. The dynamic colour choice evoked a sense of mysticism and vibrancy that the sea has, and has had, in stories and fables we have grown up with. From the Little Mermaid to Moby Dick, the sea can be a friend or foe and should be admired but ultimately respected. The delicacy and simultaneous strength of this dress seems to envelop both sides of a cautious reverence for the magical ocean. Cunning how one dress in this world of fashion reminds us of nature’s deepest law.

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Picturesque Finds Visit the fashion, art and interiors section of your local bookstore this month and look out for our picks for spring’s coffee-table must-haves.

Everyday Flowers: Flowers to Beautify and Decorate the Home Paula Pryke

aula Pryke is the world-renowned florist who knows exactly how to build a moment out of flowers. In Everyday Flowers, she takes us back to the basics of decorating our own homes with tips on colours, shapes, cutting and caring for your designs. ‘This is my most personal book, it is a book filled with simple flower arrangements to share with friends and family’ – Paula Pryke.

Salad for Dinner: Complete Meals for All Seasons

Jeanne Kelley

ighlighting imaginative ingredients that put greens at the centre of the table, this vibrant cookbook is a celebration of contrasts in colour, flavour and texture. An artfully prepared salad is one of the most appealing dishes to eat, engaging all the senses, and spring is a better time than any to kick-start your healthy regime with the help of this must-have book from Chef Jeanne Kelley. Rizzoli New York, Out in April.

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From top to bottom images courtesy of: Rachel Whiting, Ryan Robert Miller.

Rizzoli New York, Out Now.

Book shelf

The

David Gandy Dolce&Gabbana

n recent years David Gandy has redefined the look of the male model and subsequently the ideal man. At six foot three inches with a commendable physique and ice blue eyes, Dolce&Gabbana took particular interest in his look, supporting his career hugely. In their new book, inclusive of 250 stunning images, the design duo celebrates the modern day male muse. Rizzoli New York, Out Now.

Fashion and Art

Edited by Adam Geczy and Vicki Karaminas

loomsbury Publishing continues to be an excellent source of knowledge and aspiration, creating books that gently guide us into the history of our interests and hobbies. Their new title Fashion and Art explores the constructed worlds and use of style as language to invigorate beliefs, perceptions and ideas. Through a collection of essays and images, the continually contested relationship between fashion and art is brought out into the open. Bloomsbury, Out Now.

The Rise of Fashion and Lessons Learned at Bergdorf Goodman Ira Neimark

‘

o matter what changes in fashion, the lessons Ira Neimark taught me will always be in style’ – Michael Kors. Who hasn’t lived out their fashion dreams inside the walls of New York’s Bergdorf Goodman? Full of personal anecdotes and photographs, Ira Neimark, the legendary leader of the fashion empire, creates a beautiful insight into the store’s making. Bloomsbury, Out Now.

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