ISSUE 40 by MOJEH

FALL'S FRESH FORCE

NÂ° 40

SEP

CURATING TIME SINCE 1950 seddiqi.com

HOLD TIME STILL It was the moment of transition, a daily beauty, that always seemed to pass by quickly. But the generosity of Time had provided a device that temporarily stopped the clockâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ticking.

#MakeTimeYourOwn

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EDITORIAL

PUBLISHING

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Published under HS Media Group FZ LLC Registered at Dubai Design District Building No. 8, Offices 212-213 P.O.Box 502333, Dubai, UAE.

Graphic Designer Balaji Mahendran Digital Strategy LOUIS AGENCY Contributing Photographers Remi Kozdra Kasia Baczulis Vivienne Balla Pelle Lannefors Anthony Arquier Sarai Mari Pieter Henket

Cover photographed by Anthony Arquier, model wears Ermanno Scervino

WWW.MOJEH.COM Louis Fourteen for MOJEH Follow us on Twitter @MOJEH_Magazine MOJEH Swiss Representative Office: Rue de Rive 4, 1204 Geneva, Switzerland Average qualified circulation (January-June 2015): 13,306 copies. For the UAE printed by Emirates Printing Press LLC. Distribution- UAE: Al Nisr Distribution LLC. Qatar: Dar Al Sharq. Bahrain: Jashanmal & Sons BSC (C). Oman: United Media Services LLC. Lebanon: Messageries Du Moyen-Orient The publishers regret that they cannot accept liability for error or omissions contained in this publication, however caused. The opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessary those of the publishers. Readers are advised to seek specialist advice before acting on information contained in this publication which is provided for general use and may not be appropriate for the readers particular circumstances. The ownership of trademark is acknowledged, therefore reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. All credits are subjects to change. Copyright HS MEDIA GROUP FZ LLC 2011

M o j eh C o ntent s

Autumn Winter 2016 Edit 86. The Making of Maticevski MOJEH speaks to the Australian, architecturally inspired designer making waves in the Middle East.

90. Wearing Your Heart on Your Sleeve As fashion-house shake-ups continue to mix up our emotions, MOJEH asks, is it the piece, brand or designer weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re invested in?

102. Shaping The Streets Pounding the pavements from New York to Milan, we reveal the new names causing a stir on the street style circuit.

108. Trend Edit Shades, textures and staples. Our 50 page edit navigates us towards the new direction in style and accessories.

164. Couture Moments Whilst Fendiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s models walk upon water, Rami Al Ali makes his runway debut. MOJEH challenges the recent penchant for casual as we draw together the dreamy details from the couture shows.

MOJEH Women 64. My Stylish Life: Shahd Al Jumaily A designer, architect and female force. MOJEH talks coffee scrubs and inspirational reads with the woman whoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s always on the go.

260. Jennifer Aniston MOJEH talks to our 90s beauty icon about the cut that shaped her career, her favourite way to start the day, and the secret to staying in shape.

MOJEH Features 284. A Life of Paradox From the folds of fashion to the most volatile destinations in the world, MOJEH reveals how individuals like Sarah Beydoun and Nadine Arton balance parallel lives in luxury and philanthropy.

288. Sharon Stone As the Cannes Film Festival reaches its 70th year, MOJEH speaks to Sharon Stone about her standout moments on the French Riviera.

Fashion Avenue, The Dubai Mall - Dubai

Avenue at Etihad Towers - Abu Dhabi

chloe.com

Fashion Stories 74. The Way We Work Creative consultant or classic co-worker? We rewrite the rules of office-appropriates with powerful prints and plaids reimagined.

176. fall’s fresh force A crisp tonic to the fanciful directions of summer, this pared back palette shot against an Icelandic exterior shows us how to boldly enter the mindset of minimalism.

192. Curb Appeal Sky, royal, cornflower and sapphire blues punctuate the grey cityscape, showing us a new spectrum for the soft knits, sheers and laces of autumn.

204. Small Town Dreams Tick back in time. We come of age with Christian Dior’s latest collection that offers vintage-inspired knits and whimsical silk prints.

216. The Observer An androgynous ode to today’s street style. Shapes, cuts and layering techniques find their place amongst our attentions.

Health & Beauty 248. Beauty Trends Darkened plum lips, smudged eyes and disco glitter – we discover the trends that dominate beauty for autumn.

262. Revitalised Rouge The statement lip strikes a cord once more. MOJEH talks to Dior creative and image director, Peter Philips, about the shades of the season.

264. Old Haunts, New Tales Cheval Blanc’s Randheli is redefining the way we see the Maldives, find out why.

266. Returning To Our Roots As the rise in veganism remains rapidly driven by Generation Z, we look at what we can learn from their eating habits.

270. Winter’s Rose Ambitious, rebellious and unrelenting. Set the scene for this must-wear shade as red makes its return to our makeup palette.

High Jewellery & Watches 234. A Realm of Regality Adored by formidable female figures from the Empress of Iran to the Duchess of Windsor, we explore the enduring relationship between Van Cleef & Arpels and the royals.

242. Diamond Dials MOJEHâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s edit on the timely diamonds making a stunning statement on our wrists for autumn.

Jewellery Trends

245. Mythological Enigma Spellbinding serpents and the Queen of Sheba.... We share the jewelled splendour of Lydia Courteille.

246. Bound By Nature Sheaves of wheat are captured in yellow diamonds at Chanel, whilst the desert flower is celebrated in chrysoprase at Cartier. MOJEH examines the new nature of high jewellery.

E d i t o r ’s L ette r Photographed by Sarai Mari

A Stellar September Photographed by Remi Kozdra and Kasia Baczulis

Decadent, lavish and indulgent –the autumn winter collections speak to the Middle Eastern woman with aplomb, more so than in previous seasons of understatement and minimalism. Velvet makes its resurgence in sumptuous dresses that can be teamed casually with trainers or seductively with heels, and similarly, velvet shirts stand tall with tailored cotton trousers worn underneath billowing velvet coats. It’s an overload that no one’s complaining about. Choose jewel tones in an ode to regality or, if you’re braver than I am, go for autumn’s zestier shades for a spirited flair, such as tangerine. Reigning trends are the Urban Cowgirl and Rule Britannia – turn to our trend pages for a full rundown – in which designers place extravagant twists on the traditional themes (think sequins, oversized fur and tiers of fall’s florals). The idea is to layer up, err on the side of audaciousness and re-train your mind from minimal to maximal. In equally extravagant efforts, accessories are packing a punch with a new focus on the shoe boot, but this time, the It styles are very much, let’s say, ‘out there’. Another favourite is what we’ve coined Pearl Perfection, in which the tiny and classic accessory has been blown up and placed on chokers and odd earrings. But, what truly wowed me this season was couture. We watched in awe as runway after runway was fuelled by classic, fairytale-like designs. It was a stunning salute to the golden age of fashion, in which metre-long trains are simply not enough and anything less than a thousand beads won’t cut it in the real realms of couture. Traditionally, our true ode to the Haute proceedings comes in the November issue, just in time for the festive season, but we couldn’t help but scratch the surface this issue in Couture Moments (turn to page 164). Contrastingly, hair and beauty this season opts for a pared back approach. Delicate and low-slung buns offer simple sophistication,

A B U D H A B I T H E G A L L E R I A A L M A R YA H I S L A N D D U B A I M A L L O F T H E E M I R AT E S D O H A V I L L A G G I O M A L L J E D D A H K H AY YAT C E N T E R R I YA D H C E N T R I A M A L L K U W A I T C I T Y T H E A V E N U E S P R E S T I G E M A N A M A B A H R A I N C I T Y C E N T R E S A K S F I F T H A V E N U E

48 Photographed by Pieter Henket

while deep plum lips are the standout feature on an otherwise bare face. It’s an unforced and natural beauty, built for a woman with intrinsic confidence, who merely wants to enhance and never ever consume her own looks. In similar sentiment, our photoshoots purposely have an overriding element of realness. Less aspiration and more inspiration. In The Observer, we took our model to the streets of Paris to explore the functionality in the aw16 collections – layering, structure and freedom prevails. Small Town Dreams follows a pack of young women on the brink of adulthood: Over-dressed – in Dior’s latest collection – and desperate to break away from the life they know. Our cover story, on the other hand, pushes the limits of our autumnal wardrobes, showcasing their high-octane yet explorative nature. Set in Iceland, today’s travel hotspot, see how dresses from the likes of Calvin Klein, Céline and Chanel can work in even the most demanding of conditions. And, whilst we move into the next round of Fashion Weeks – a time that gives us feelings of both dread and delight as we take to the month long tour away from home to view the SS17 collections – I wonder what the new season will bring. With another round of musical chairs at our favoured houses – Raf Simons to Calvin Klein and Maria Grazia Chiuri to Dior to name a couple – it’s set to be a stellar September. Throughout the month, follow all the action over on MOJEH.com, where we bring you the standout trends, street style edits, backstage coverage and much, much more.

Follow me on Twitter and Instagram @Mojeh_I and write to me at editor@mojeh.com

Mojeh Izadpanah Editor in Chief

E d i t o r â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s SN A P SHOT s

Flower Patch 5

3&4

In an attempt to subvert the notion that florals are a seasonal print, we adapt the verdant motif for cooler climes. Echo a moodier palette with plush warm tones of crimson red and soft mauve, while adopting luxe jacquard fabrics with detailed embroidery and opulent embellishments. 1. COACH | 2. ZADIG&VOLTAIRE | 3. MALONE SOULIERS @stylebop.com | 4. MIU MIU | 5. FENDI | 6. PIAGET | 7. SULTRA | 8. MAX MARA

See the world through ruby opticals this autumn, as designers conform to one rich hue. Look further than optometry support and select specs with hidden interior patterns and statement frames.

Top to bottom: VERSACE | PRADA | DOLCE&GABBANA | MIU MIU | Fine bone china carrara cheese platter by Dibbern at White Almonds

Photographed by Rhys Simpson-Hopkins, styled by Sophie Pasztor

s t yl e note

S t yl e note

Fashion serves as a canvas for wearable art, as designers re-envision 1950s pop culture. Colourful food animations pay tribute to artist Andy Warhol, while Jimmy Choo’s graphic clutch brings a healthy dose of cool.

Photographed by Rhys Simpson-Hopkins, styled by Sophie Pasztor

Left to right: Clutch, JIMMY CHOO | Sunglasses, MIU MIU | Bangles, MARNI | Clutch, LEO STUDIO DESIGN at Etoile “La Boutique” | Heel, MOSCHINO

Autumnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Allure Colder climates call for robust fragrances formulated with aromatic spices, like cinnamon and warm notes of musk. Sweet inclusions of vanilla will soften the aroma and ensure itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s season appropriate.

Top to bottom: Lady Million Prive, PACO RABANNE | Chypre Caresse, GIVENCHY | Parco Palladiano IV, BOTTEGA VENETA

Photographed by Rhys Simpson-Hopkins, styled by Sophie Pasztor

b e a u ty n ote

Photographed by Rhys Simpson-Hopkins, styled by Sophie Pasztor

58 s t yl e note

An Ode To Frida Animated and eclectic, Mexican painter Frida Kahlo sets the tone for creativity with lively florals and a precious pairing of gems. Invest in embellished details and ornate cut-outs to imbue your look with her exotic nature and artisan style.

Left to right: Heels, FENDI | Bag, SAINT LAURENT | Earrings, OSCAR DE LA RENTA at Etoile “La Boutique” | Heels and glasses, DOLCE & GABBANA

B e a u ty N ote

Girl of the moment Lily-Rose has been named the face of Chanel’s latest fragrance N°5 L’EAU.

Watch this Face:

Lily-Rose Depp This aspiring actress’ star is most certainly on the rise.

Lily-Rose Depp is a true Hollywood blue blood. The genetically-blessed 17-year-old is the daughter of French singer, model and actress Vanessa Paradis and American actor Johnny Depp. The fledgling actress splits her time between Paris and Los Angeles and has three films set to come out before the end of this year; Yoga Hosers, in which both her mother and father feature, Planetarium, where she stars alongside Natalie Portman, and The Dancer, which premiered at the Cannes Film Festival in May. While Lily-Rose’s grungy, 90s-inspired street style has garnered the young star a lot of attention, it’s her red carpet dressing and penchant for Chanel that has landed her on many best-dressed lists. She wore a halterneck tweed gown designed by the brand to the Met Gala earlier this year, as well as an edgy, sporty hoodie and matching shorts to the Cannes Film Festival in May. A front row regular at Chanel shows, Lily-Rose fronted the brand’s Pearl eyewear collection launched last September and now follows in her mother’s footsteps as she stars in the campaign for the new fragrance, N°5 L’EAU.

www.giuseppezanottidesign.com

DUBAI - DOHA - KUWAIT CITY - RIYADH - JEDDAH

T r av el in S ty le

Iman Hasan on Fashion Week

After representing MOJEH at last year’s New York Fashion Week, Iman Hasan reveals her travel must-haves for the next round of shows. What are your key wardrobe staples? A solid pair of boyfriend jeans, wedges, leather jackets and shift dresses go a long way, especially in fashion week’s unpredictable weather! Who are your go-to designers for fashion week? Chloé, Mary Katrantzou, David Koma, Johanna Ortiz, Lolitta, Patricia Bonaldi... I like all the Latin American brands at the moment. I live for bold colours and patterns, textures and unpredictable design. I love to mix and match statement pieces. Which essential pieces from the autumn/winter16 collections will we see you in at this season’s shows? This season’s faux fur trend is a favourite! I’m also obsessed with ruffles, bomber jackets and off-the-shoulder silhouettes. As for accessories, lace-up shoes and chokers are some of my favourites. How many shoes do you pack? I am an over packer, so I pack at least six pairs which can be worn from day to night, with different heel heights and lengths. For winter, boots with a chunky heel are definitely a hit. Comfort is key! Can you reveal your top handbag must-haves? The Chanel Boy in bright colours is my top pick, but I also love Gucci’s collection this season. The fun prints and embroideries are so on trend and add a finishing touch to any outfit. Anything Chloé is also a must have. What is your go-to fashion week hairstyle? I love playing around with braids as an easy way to look puttogether. A solid blowout always works, too! At the moment, I’m loving space buns. In case of a beauty emergency, what is your preferred skincare brand? Kiehl’s is my go-to beauty brand. I travel a lot and my skin gets very dehydrated, so it’s a great brand for both every day and for travel. Can you take us through your in-flight beauty routine? I try to have a facial three days before I travel, lots of water and sleep on the flight as much as possible.

Above: Iman during fashion week last season Below: Iman on her way to the Oscar de la Renta’s a/w16 show Photographed by Nikki Krecicki, interviewed by Sophie Pasztor

S o c i ety Wo m en

My Stylish Life:

Shahd Al Jumaily MOJEH visits fashion designer and architect, Shahd Al Jumaily, to discuss fashion, beauty and what inspires her.

Motto to live by: “God will not take you to it if he cannot take you through it” | Best advice you’ve been given: Never make decisions based on what other people expect from you | Person who has taught you the most: My dad | Who inspires you: My mum, her love, beauty and strength | Person you’d most like to meet: My grandfather. He passed away before I was born | Next place on the bucket list: Thailand | Most cherished possession: My wedding ring | The last book that you read: “The Power of Now” by Eckhart Tolle, one of my favourite books, instantly changes my mood and gives me a positive vibe | Favourite beach destination: Turkey | Ideal holiday: Anywhere with beautiful beaches, good weather and delicious food! | Favourite travel partner: My husband | Where will you be this autumn: Lebanon | Favourite fashion brands: Givenchy, Self Portrait, Poca & Poca | Favourite local designer: Madiyah Al Sharqi | Heels or

Photographed at home by Julia at The Factory ME, Interviewed by Sophie Pasztor

flats: Heels | Style icon: Queen Rania Al Abdallah and Blake Lively | Signature style: Feminine, stylish and diverse | How would you describe your work attire: Classic and elegant | Best denim brand:

home beauty solution: Coffee body

Topshop | Bag of the moment: Phillip

scrub | Signature scent: Happy by

Lim mini satchel | Favourite place to

Clinique | Daily beauty regime: Exfoliate

shop: Dubai | Trend to covet for pre-fall:

the face, wash with cleansing foam, apply

Mixing patterns | Blow-dry or au naturel:

moisturising cream followed by serum and

Blow dry | Best hair-treatment: Caviar

eye cream | How do you stay in shape:

treatment at Belle Femme | Favourite

I do boxing every once in a while and eat

beauty brand: Lancôme | Staple lipstick

small meals every four hours. I also do

and shade: Wow by Wojooh – Royal Plum

shaping treatments to firm my body every

| Nail colour for September: Burgundy

now and then | What supplements do you

| Sun factor: SPF 30 | Best beauty tip

take: Omega tablets | Natural remedy

you’ve been given: Drink lots of water

you swear by: Yogurt and honey face

and always exfoliate and moisturise the

mask | Best workout: Boxing | Yoga or

face before going out | Favourite at-

Pilates: Pilates | At sea or in land: At sea

This page: Shahd wears storets.com blazer, Zara top and trousers, Rolex watch, Cartier bracelets and Accessorize necklace. Previous page: Shahd wears S*uce dress, Valentino shoes, Baume Et Mercier watch and Cartier bracelets.

Tal k ing P o i nt

A Life Less Troubled? To tackle the pressures of modern living, more of us are avoiding self-reflection and ignoring feelings of doubt. But is it effective in the long run?

By Annie Darling

City Limits, photographed by Riccardo Vimercati, MOJEH Issue 22

The modern woman is optimistic, ambitious and confident.

of profoundly uncomfortable self-analysis. If there ever is a still

She can be found in all walks of life and chips away at the

moment for reflective thought – say, while sitting mindlessly in

glass ceiling that keeps women out of the most powerful jobs.

traffic – out comes the mobile device.

She’s a far cry from the derisive ‘damsel in distress’ or, more

“Remember that the subconscious is there for two reasons,”

recently, chick flick starlet, who works, but barely, thanks to her

explains Yates, “to protect us from harm and to help us

tumultuous liaisons and hysterical moods.

achieve our goals.” While this mindset prevents us from

There’s a cliché that it takes one week to get over each month

experiencing avoidable sadness, does it also limit our ability

of a relationship, but who has that much time to dwell on the

for self-growth and understanding? “When we don’t look at

past? Whatever our latest dilemma, we avoid second-guessing

what we’ve learned and how we’ve contributed to something

and push ourselves to ‘move on’. Taking influence from the

not working out as planned, we don’t take responsibility for

persistently positive Oprah Winfrey and awe-inspiring Queen

our actions,” argues Hassler.

Rania of Jordan, we subscribe to the belief that we have a right

I’ve always justified my behaviour as a necessary self-defense

to not pursue success, but to be successful. No matter how

mechanism in an increasingly precarious world. When you look

difficult the past year has been or how burdensome one’s own

at how millennial women live, you see what you’d expect from

setbacks, we have the power to affect change. All we need to

a generation that’s endured economic instability and political

do is look on the bright side.

dysfunction. You see an exhilarating explosion of creativity, as

The power of positive thinking informs everything from Taylor

well as a longing for security. Each generation has historically

Swift’s ‘Shake It Off’ to the Mayo Clinic’s belief that we can

become richer than its predecessor, but that’s no longer

improve our health by avoiding “negative self-talk”. Various

guaranteed. In a less predictable world, the millennial woman

studies correlate long life with optimism, while others draw

has been forced to become self-reliant.

connections between longevity and the degree of control people

Consequently, she has exceptionally low social trust – 19

have over their lives. “I’m a big believer in positive thinking. Why

per cent of millennials say most people can be trusted,

would anyone want to surround themselves with anything else?”

compared with 40 per cent of boomers, according to Pew

asks psychotherapist and life coach Anna Yates.

Research. Just 26 per cent of the millennial generation is

After all, in an exhausting era that bleeds perpetual judgment,

married, compared with 48 per cent of boomers at that age.

how is the millennial woman supposed to withstand the

Only 42 per cent plan to have children because, according

harshest critiques? And, when our own expectations aren’t

to Hassler, “Intimacy and connection in healthy relationships

met, how else are we supposed to recover from these

requires a high-level of communication.”

disappointments? This emotional and physical suffering is

It’s not that I don’t care when I make mistakes. I’m not the

what life coach and professional speaker Christine Hassler

archetypal slacker, who slouches through life, misunderstood, in

calls an ‘Expectation Hangover’.

plaid flannel. Nor am I angry and melancholic, taking a combative

Instead of wallowing in regret or self-recrimination, Hassler

stance against authority. I just don’t see the point of basking

argues that it’s “healthy to have an accepting attitude”.

in strident self-pity. “We’re not superhuman,” reminds Yates.

Of course, we’ve all had ‘one of those days’. When we spill

“We have limits to our energy, patience, time and capability. We

coffee on our champagne-coloured Bottega Veneta blouse or,

need to work out what our priorities are.”

more recently in my case, the strap on your favourite pair of

Hassler explains that being dismissive is a pre-emptive and

sandals snaps clean off, leaving you shoeless and red-faced in

satiric surrender, taking the form of reaction rather than action.

the middle of a workday. “It’s important that we don’t get caught

“We end up suppressing, we end up avoiding and we, ultimately,

up in the little things and don’t obsess to the point where they

end up repeating the same problems over and over again.” It’s

negatively affect us,” explains Hassler. “What’s important is to

also been suggested that evading emotions underlies various

move into acceptance.”

psychological problems, including obsessive-compulsive

Women, like me, who stubbornly refuse to scale back in the

disorder, depression and panic attacks. “I see so many women

face of impossible expectations, experience more than their fair

who suppress or repress their emotions and often they end up

share of failure. If I were to execute a step-by-step treatment

getting sick, being irritable and, ultimately, more stressed out.”

plan every time life throws a curveball my way, it would cost

Deflecting negative feelings may give them more power,

me invaluable time and energy, not to mention countless bouts

leading to intrusive thoughts. Hassler explains that this, in

68 turn, encourages people to become busier to keep them at bay. “A lot of women will work really hard for something that doesn’t go as planned and will try to stop themselves from getting upset by working harder. But, if it’s a real disappointment that tugs at the heart, it’s important to process it.” Many of us are overscheduled, overcommitted and overworked. Ask a colleague or friend how they are and the stock answer is “super busy” or “crazy busy”. After all, you can’t mull over problems if you don’t allow yourself time to think about them. However, Hassler argues that until there’s resolution or some kind of acceptance, these thoughts will rattle incessantly around in our heads. Does our hastiness to move on signal a deep aversion to risk? Or does it enable us to act even more recklessly, as we don’t have to deal with the consequences? Although the millennial woman is confident and independent she’s burdened by severe hardships – she has higher levels of student loan debt and lower levels of personal income. She rejects the Dilbertian goal of a steady, albeit unsatisfying job, opting instead for years of experimentation, even repeated failure. Her confidence is ironic in the face of historic uncertainty, but it means she has everything to gain, as well as nothing to lose. The general impression one gets is of a demanding generation that’s stressed, energetic and sceptical. Our armour, which one could argue is genius, is to focus on ourselves. However, Yates claims this results in mounting self-imposed societal pressure. “Life is much more demanding these days and women have a tendency to think that they need to measure up to what they see in glossy magazines or on the television or on social media.” Hassler agrees. “As women, we have this high standard that we’re supposed to have it all together, look really good, and that we can just plough through life and take on a million things. But, we’re emotional beings, and it’s important that we allow ourselves to be vulnerable. Modern-day women don’t like to feel,” laughs Hassler, which makes it difficult. “We want to feel good all the time and we’re not given the tools that we need to process our emotions. Often we’re scared that if we really dive into our deepest feelings, we’ll never get out of it and there isn’t a lot of instruction or support around doing so.” “Sadly, we get into a negative spiral when things don’t go as we wish and it can be very difficult to pull out of it,” adds Yates. Hard as it is, negative feelings are a part of everyday life, arguably more so if you are “crazy busy”. These challenges and how we deal with them shape the person we are, as well as the person we will become. “I encourage people to have strength of heart, to take risks and to have courage, but not so strong that you end up dismissive and you put your walls up,” concludes Hassler. “This will disconnect us from our intuition, it disconnects us from our femininity and it ultimately disconnects us from the success and fulfillment that we want.” If life becomes a series of sarcastic jokes, apathetic flashbacks and a competition to see who can care the least when things go wrong, it seems we’ve made a considerable misstep. Nonetheless, this impassive perspective has patched over emotional wounds more times than I care to remember. Perhaps the key to a satisfying existence requires a more balanced approach that doesn’t dwell nor disregard. How we relate to the past can wreak havoc at home, work or in our relationships. The sooner we take ownership of our experiences, the better. Ultimately, they’re the guide to our future.

Fa sh io n IN F O C US

9 8

Intimate Apparel

Sensual separates in delicate lace carry a boudoir

Words and selection by Sophie Pasztor

Nostalgic Rocker

Seventies shades and a web of black fabric channel a rebellious attitude. Adopt a grunge driven aesthetic with feminine touches, like dainty frills and thigh-high boots.

6 5

1 2

Going Places

4 5

S P R I N G

–

S UM M ER 17

2 0–2 3 OCT H AI D UBAI

2 016 d 3 D E SIG N

DI ST RICT

Endorsed by

Sponsored by

www.fashionforward.ae #FFWDDXB

S t yl e N otes

The Way We Work Clashing prints, sporty suits and the new codes for plaid â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Septemberâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s office attire places its own spin on the autumn/winter collections.

Photographed by Vivienne Balla Styled by Kelly Baldwin

Boardroom Boho: Bring the free-thinking spirit of summer across to your autumnal projects. Oversized leather and quaint ruffles in commanding hues showcase austerity alongside frivolity. Top and skirt, CHLOĂ&#x2030; | Shoes, BOTTEGA VENETA | Bracelet, SAINT LAURENT

Sports Day: Todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s twopiece adopts a sportswear vibe, with tailored track pants and neoprene blazers. Structure on top remains tough, while a laissez-faire approach is taken elsewhere. Jacket and trouser-skirt, LOUIS VUITTON

Let Loose: Pleats offer fresh movement and autumnal brights keep spirits high. Dresses are anything but sharp and straight. Accessory note: Fendiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s suitably sized Peekaboo bag adds a playful note as a clashing print. Dress, SALVATORE FERRAGAMO | Shoes, VERSACE | Bag, FENDI

The Plaid Reboot: Plaid is a major heritage piece â&#x20AC;&#x201C; so, whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new? Sequins, proportion and skin. Here, Bottega Veneta propels the classic fabric into a new era of cool. Dress, coat and shoes, BOTTEGA VENETA

Blue is the New Grey: From aqua to ink, collections are awash with varying shades of sea. Wear tone on tone for extra tranquillity. Watch note: Metiers d’art pieces showcase a wearer’s acute eye for both beauty and brawn. Bralette, LA PERLA | Shirt, EMILIO PUCCI | Trousers, VICTORIA BECKHAM | Watch, Lady Compliquée with diamonds, tourmalines, tsavorites, hand engraved peacock in 18 karat white gold, diamond set bezel, 38mm platinum case, FABERGÉ | Beauty note: DiorShow Pro Liner and All In Brow 3D, CHRISTIAN DIOR | Face Contour Pen, BURBERRY | Lip Lure in Bloom, ILLAMASQUA

Pinstripes Reimagined: Contrasting lines and superfluous swirls make a mockery of the traditional pinstripe. Shoe note: Exotic skins and fur form perfectly acceptable office attire when worn with structure and length. Dress and waistcoat, SPORTMAX | Shoes, SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

Office Mascot: Look towards high-spirited animal emblems for a touch of humour during the 9-5. Wear with sharp tailoring to remain on point. Jumper, GUCCI | Trousers, MAX MARA | Shoes, CHRISTIAN DIOR

Winter is Coming: Layering becomes your partner in crime while moving from one clime to the next. Stick to a basic colour palette and, instead, play with fabric, print and cut. Try paperthin silks underneath structured blazers and coats. Top, LA PERLA | Coat (black), RICK OWENS @stylebop.com | Coat (leopard), BOTTEGA VENETA | Beauty note: Pot Rouge Pale Pink, BOBBI BROWN| Rouge Superstitious Matte and 5 Couleurs Parisian Sky Palette, CHRISTIAN DIOR | Sculpting Powder Duo, ILLAMASQUA

Personality Clash: Print on print is an easy way to lease new life into statement separates, and offers a bold but feminine appeal. Stick to the same family of colour tones for continuity. Top and shoes, VERSACE | Skirt, EMILIO PUCCI

Model: Paulina K at MMG Hair & Makeup Artist: Marisol Steward Stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Assistant: Sophie Pasztor Special Thanks: Cities Design, Art & Lifestyle Store

An Ode to Femininity: Team thigh-high slits with modest knitwear for a striking juxtaposition. Quirky heels add further appeal. Jumper, VERSACE | Skirt, SPORTMAX | Shoes, FENDI

d e sig n er i nter vie w

Toni Maticevski

What has most influenced your work? Apart from the female body, I would have to honestly say my customer and the way she transforms. Tell us about your most memorable fashion moment? There have been so many, but I when I was around 12 years old, I saw the Balenciaga retrospective at the National Gallery of Victoria and immediately knew that I wanted to be part of creating beautiful things. Your AW16 collection is said to celebrate the powerful presence of a female.

The Makings of Maticevski

What qualities do you believe makes the Maticevski woman? I don’t believe that there is just one type of ‘Maticevski woman’ – there is something for many different identities in my collections, which I hope ignites a feeling of power and sensuality. We often see strong artistic connections drawn through your work; can you tell us about anything in particular for the AW16 collection? I wanted there to be an undertone of an almost voodoo, romance fighting madness, like an innocence fighting with something darker, more sinister. There were a lot of graphic elements to the collection and the way we shot it had a purity that was also met with a slightly sinister ambience. What new design elements did you bring to your recent collection? There were a few new techniques that I played with and developed into AW16, one of them being an elegant armour in the ornamental dress, which carried through to some of the more white streamline looks. I also developed the majestic style of beading that contrasted against a three-dimensional mesh. Can you take us through your design process each season? I don’t have a strict process. I don’t have the time to create mood boards and be inspired by a piece of art or movement.

Interviewed by Sophie Pasztor

As his designs are observed on a global level, Australian talent Toni Maticevski looks to inspire the women of the Middle East with his architectural masterpieces. Combining his appreciation for the female form with cutting edge design elements, Maticevski’s work is one of ingenuity.

Maticevski’s aw/16 collection

My process starts with my hands, I create what I want to create and what I believe is a level up from the last season. Sometimes, I start with a sketch and sometimes, it begins with the fabric and how it manoeuvres. My process is to challenge myself and try to do better every season. Which is your favourite piece from the AW16 collection? I fell in and out of love with a few pieces along the way! I always do, but I think my favourite look would have to be look 10, of the mission cropped skivvy, layered with the magnetic corset and worn with the domination pencil skirt. It’s just un-apologetically sexy. What do you believe gives Maticevski its unique appeal? There is a Maticevski signature, but I try not to tell the same story every season. If one style is a sell-out, I’m not going to repeat it in different colours and fabrics for the next 15 years. I like to think that my customer sees that and is inspired and invested in my new developments and evolution. What about your designs do you think will appeal to the Middle Eastern woman? I am always inspired and thinking about the Middle Eastern woman when I am creating a collection. If anything, I feel they are more adventurous and ahead of the game than most, which in turn challenges me to explore and tell new stories. In the past, you have collaborated to create costumes for the ballet. How did you adapt your designs? I have worked with the ballet many times and it wasn’t a challenge to adapt my designs into dance – in fact, it was liberating to see the body take my vision and bring an unexpected movement, form and energy to the pieces. In what ways do you think Australian style and Middle Eastern style align? I think they are both international. Style has no real boundaries and is not defined by the country you live in.

m o j eh w o man

Seasonal Style with

Nadya Hasan MOJEH meets with local style icon Nadya Hasan to see how she transitions her look for the new season.

How would you describe your signature look? My style keeps evolving year by year. I have seen such a huge change in my style for the past six years, and I think I am at my best right now. My style is very minimal and basic when it comes to my day-to-day look. Who do you think has influenced this? I can’t pinpoint one person when it comes to influencing my current style, but I have to say Miroslava Duma has always had a big impact and, lately, I’ve been loving Blake Lively’s style — for a celebrity who doesn’t have a stylist, she seems to do no wrong! What are your favourite colours to wear this Autumn? I am obsessed with nude, grey and white, as I think the autumnal colours of nature perfectly compliment my seasonal wardrobe. What’s your wardrobe must-have? A pair of power heels – comfortable and classic. Long coats, too, for tougher weather. What items will you be investing in this season? I think I need to invest in a leather jacket, but will take the untraditional route and hopefully find a great one in white. Which designers are you looking forward to for autumn/winter16? I’m excited to wear some of Céline, Valentino and Dior as they really captured me this season. Share three seasonal trends that you will definitely be flaunting: Coloured fur. I think it’s very exciting and I would definitely wear it with a short dress and knee-high boots. Also, layering a dress over jumper. As it is, I’ve already started wearing this look and I’m kind of loving it! I love a good, sleek suit, so it’s most definitely something you’ll see me rocking. How has your beauty look transitioned into the cooler months? My beauty routine is pretty basic and I don’t explore much with it. But, I will definitely be using darker shades on my lips. What are you most looking forward to wearing? Knee-high boots! I absolutely love them and I get excited to wear them each time winter comes around. As a regular jet-setter, what are your travel necessities? Denim, bodysuits, leather jackets and I never travel without a cable extension (super essential!).

Photographed at Comptoir102 by Julia at The Factory ME, interviewed by Sophie Pasztor

Nadya wears Dima Ayad dress and Nadya Hasan Nawal ankle-strap heels

Photographed by Rhys Simpson-Hopkins, styled by Sophie Pasztor

Arm Candy Switch out last-season refinement and make way for maximal design, as statement bangles are applied like armour. Making a case for the axiom that size definitely matters, oversized gems in opposing colours cling to textured metal for maximum impact.

Top to bottom: KENNETH JAY LANE, ERICKSON BEAMON and CINER at Sophieâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Closet

F a sh io n F eatu re

Demna Gvasalia at the helm of Balenciaga for its a/w16 collection

Wearing Your Heart On Your Sleeve With the pace of designer moves becoming increasingly more frequent, has our relationship with luxury brands changed? Are we investing in a piece, a brand or a designer, and is it wholeheartedly? We explore our emotional bond with fashion.

By Gillian Brett

Balenciaga under Alexander Wang’s creative direction

As designers hop from house to house, the question of where our loyalties lie has come under scrutiny. Are we attached to a brand, or the eye driving it’s aesthetic?

to house, the question of where our loyalties lie has come under scrutiny. Are we attached to a brand, or the eye driving it’s aesthetic? To put this into perspective, in 1997, Michael Kors was appointed as the first ever women’s ready-to-wear designer and creative director behind Céline. This may surprise a lot of people, particularly Phoebe Philo’s disciples, who can’t imagine the brand before the godmother of minimalism took the helm. How different would the brand be today if Kors was still in charge? Would his 2002 Céline ‘Boogie’ bag be lusted after with the same fervour as the new autumn/ winter 2016 Trifold? Would sell-out rose gold watches generate the same fervour as Philo’s sculptural wrist-candy? And, would a decidedly sexier silhouette dominate where maximalism and oversized shapes currently hallmark the brand? Kors legacy at Céline was a success cemented in reviving the brand and turning around its fortune and public image through progressive, accessory-driven collections. Meanwhile, in the exact same year that Kors joined Céline, Philo was appointed at Chloé to pull off a similar feat.

Initial signs of Nicolas Ghesquière futuristic aesthetic brewing at Balenciaga

Before her tenure, vertiginous high heels, secondskin mini-dresses and hip-baring hipsters reigned – but Philo brought a whole new vocabulary to the style vernacular, with her flattering highwaisted wide-leg trousers, Grecian-style dresses, floaty blouses, chunky heels and rectangular leather bags with weighty hardware. Let us I was recently asked in an interview, “What is

consider the Paddington, just one of the historic

your favourite brand?” As a fashion writer, this

handbags Philo created at the French maison, as

is a question that I’m regularly asked, but the

an example of one of her key Chloérelics. Made

response I gave this time surprised not just

in spring 2005, and costing £1,380, all 8,000

my interviewer, but myself, too. “I like what

Paddingtons were spoken for before reaching

the house of Balenciaga does, and I’ve always

stores. But, would you associate the bag with

followed it from Ghesquière, through Wang,

Philo, or with Chloé? And, if Philo exits the label

and now under Gvasalia’s eclectic vision,” I

(which rumours suggested she would back in

answered, with little deliberation.

February) would we, and our wallets, loyally

Observing a fashion house under three different

parade behind her to her next fashion house?

high-profile creative directors in three years was

“Personally, I’m more invested in a house than a

pretty unheard of until recently. But, it does make

particular designer,” stylist Chloe Bloch reveals.

you question what it was that drew you to that

“I must admit; I do feel quite nervous when a

brand to begin with. As designers hop from house

designer whose aesthetic I don’t like is appointed

Vetements a/w17

Nicolas Ghesquière reinterprets the LV logo

at a brand that I do. I’ve long invested in Chanel and Saint Laurent because their materials and silhouettes suit my shape – it will be interesting to see what changes Anthony Vaccarello introduces when he takes over at Saint Laurent, and whether I’ll still want to buy the brand.” As well as Vaccarello, this season is set for many power moves. From Jonathan Saunders at DVF, to Raf Simons at Calvin Klein, brand loyalty is at its most ambiguous. Saunders clientele is heavily comprised of the young, stylish Brit pack of Poppy Delevingne, Sienna Miller and co. Will they duly join the Upper East Side set – from Olivia Palermo to Jessica Alba –in prim, printed DVF wrap dresses? And will Charlize Theron, Natalie Portman, Rihanna and Jennifer Lawrence be willing to trade their show-stopping Dior red carpet gowns for the sleek, slipdress-centric minimalism of Calvin Klein? Naturally, some of these celebrities are contracted under lucrative cosmetics deals, and their choices are a little more contrived. But certainly, designer’s relationships with actresses, models and singers can run far deeper. Vaccarello’s best friend and muse Anja Rubik is just as likely to be found wearing his clothes on the runway as she is in her day to day life. “The most treasured item in my wardrobe is a very impractical white dress that Anthony Vaccarello designed for me four years ago for the Met Gala,” Rubik recently confessed to The Edit. “I haven’t worn it since, and I will probably never wear it again, but I cherish it.” Many models seek out their designer BFFs when it comes to key life milestones, such as their wedding dress, too. Just recently, Alexander Wang designed a bespoke caped Balenciaga dress for his friend and muse, Hanne Gaby Odiele. According to research published in the Gallup Management Journal, these kinds of romantic attachments to fashion surpass the celebrity world, with more than a quarter of us experiencing an emotional – even passionate – bond with a mass retailer. International fashion professor and retail expert Dr Jochen Strähle’s groundbreaking research on fashion brands and emotional investment found that the ardent dependence we place on a favoured fashion brand is, in fact, comparable to that of our human relationships. According to Strähle’s findings, we assign human emotions to our connection with certain labels and use emotive language – such as Rubik’s “cherish” – including ‘trust’ and ‘love’, when we discuss them. So, once we’ve established an all-consuming relationship with a fashion house, how do we feel when the creative director of our beloved Marc Jacobs during his time at French design house Louis Vuitton

brand leaves? Are we bereft? Broken-hearted?

Unable to fathom ever purchasing anything from

easily could love Lagerfeld’s audacious approach

Balenciaga, Danielle Sherman at Edun and Hedi

the brand now that it’s at the hands of another?

to fashion, and his legendary catwalk theatrics.

Slimane at Saint Laurent all left their respective

Sounds dramatic, but the reality is that the brand

Kaiser Karl joined Chanel in 1983, a decade after

roles after three years at the helm, and with

will never look exactly the same again. Sure,

Coco Chanel has passed away, and five years

Nicolas Ghesquière’s three-year anniversary at

there are enduring elements to most labels – Karl

after the label’s first ready-to-wear collection.

Louis Vuitton approaching in November, rumours

Lagerfeld was never going to do away with the

Nowadays, the pace of fashion’s musical chairs

are already whirring that he intends to exit the

Chanel 2.55 designed by Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel

is far speedier. For better or for worse, designer

label after showing his spring/summer 2017

in 1929, but he has infamously proclaimed that

inaugurations have become so rapid that a new

collection in October.

Madame Chanel would have “hated” him. With

‘Three-Year Theory’ has been coined, as third

At Vuitton, the ex-Balenciaga (where he served

a legacy that extends beyond 100 years, the

anniversaries are considered something of a

for 15 years as it happens) creative director’s

French aristocrats who wore the brand a century

landmark in the current cycle of fashion designer

razor-sharp and ultra-modern style has been

ago may have hated him, too. But, they just as

moves. Raf Simons at Dior, Alexander Wang at

positively received by fashion critics. Pioneering

Clockwise: Gucci’s s/s11 collection under Frida Giannini, Gucci under its current creative director Alessandro Michele, Tom Ford for Gucci in a/w95

94 warrior-style silhouettes he became renowned for at Balenciaga to Vuitton, and I’ve been shooting a lot of his new collection. If you love a designer’s aesthetic, you’ll always appreciate what they do, regardless of whether you liked the new brand they’re at before or not.” If we are all slavishly trailing our most-loved designers, our devotion should surely translate to changes in sales. As a Ghesquière super-fan, I’m naturally cheering him on at Vuitton, too, but has his work lived up to commercial expectations? According to a performance report published on the LVMH website back in February of this year, while no specific figures relating to the brand were released, Louis Vuitton was said to have had “a remarkable year driven by the enthusiastic welcome of both its iconic products as well as the new models created by Nicolas Ghesquière. The Cruise Collection shown in Palm Springs and the exhibition at the Grand Palais in Paris retracing the history of the Maison were among the highlights for the year”. So, with Ghesquière asserting himself as a crowdpleaser at Vuitton, what of his previous abode, Balenciaga, where one of the creatives behind much-hyped French ‘collective’ Vetements has taken over. Demna Gvasalia sky-rocketed from an insiders-only designer, to a household name when he was appointed at the French heritage maison in October of last year. His debut autumn/ winter 2016 collection for the house received much critical acclaim. “It’s the combination of the designer and how they evolve at the house that produces a winning combination,” Leeanne Walsh, Buying Manager of Avenue 32, tells me. “For Gvasalia’s debut at Balenciaga, the collection had all the architectural principles that Christian Dior’s first collection without creative director Raf Simons

are true to the house’s DNA, but this was mixed with the street wear influence which has made Vetements such a cult brand.” In the midst of the industry hysteria over his

Raf Simons s/s16 departure collection for Christian Dior

a new ‘V’ logo, inspired by an old slanted ‘LV’

employment, how have you, dear reader, received

logo he noticed in an archival photo of one

his haute hoodies and posh puffa jackets?

of Vuitton’s first boutiques dating back to the

Balenciaga are part of the French conglomerate,

1800s, a sense of “agelessness” has been the

Kering, and delving into their finance report for

Frenchman’s core message for his new chapter

the first half of 2016 which was released in July,

at the French maison. Searching for a balance

the brand was surprisingly, but transparently,

between the past and the future, in a typewriter-

AWOL. Overall, the Paris-based group headed

font letter to the guests of his first Vuitton fashion

by Francois-Henri Pinault concluded that group

show in March 2014, Ghesquière referred to “the

revenue (in the three months from April to June)

desire for timelessness.”

was €2.97 billion, a whopping 6.9 per cent higher

Paradoxically, what if he does move on after his

than a year earlier. But, this soaring success was

show in October? How timeless can his new

lavished mainly on Gucci.

line really feel if the man behind them is now

The Italian brand also had a dramatic aesthetic-

heading up a rival brand? “I’ve always loved

altering change up top, with the appointment of

what Nicolas Ghesquière does,” London-based

Alessandro Michele in January last year, following

fashion and celebrity stylist, Espe de la Fuente

the exit of Frida Giannini. Michele’s quirky,

tells me. “He’s taken the experimental fabrics and

vintage-with-an-edge style has been a global

triumph. The brand’s spirited new image has

the brand. There has to be balance of both.”

proven a hit with millennials according to a report

Herein lies the risk of alienating the core

detailed on Women’s Wear Daily in June, which

customer, when a designer takes a brand to

indicated that sales to clients aged under 34 rose

an unrecognisable new look, stripped of its

50 per cent for the spring collection, seemingly

heritage entirely. One designer who has been

satisfying the brand’s core customer. With items

praised with modernising a sleepy label, while

such as the Dionysus bag and the Princetown

preserving its heritage, is J.W. Anderson. “When

slip-on loafer becoming global must-haves, the

J.W. Anderson debuted at Loewe for SS15, his

brand has also reportedly regained some of

collection paid homage to Loewe’s Spanish

its former customers, who left when the label

heritage, but with Anderson’s quiet individualism

when it was said to have stagnated somewhat.

and sense of restraint,” praises Natalie Kingham,

“My relationship with Gucci as a brand has gone

Buying Director of MatchesFashion.com. “Hedi

from the Tom Ford era to Giannini to Michele,”

Slimane, during his tenure at Saint Laurent, has

Lauren Stephenson, previously the Head of PR

excited and delighted our customers with his

at Harrods, who now heads up her own agency

edgy take on this sophisticated Parisian fashion

Aisle 8, explains. “Each of these designers have

house – however, we now eagerly await to see

evolved the brand and collections in their own

the direction that Anthony Vaccarello will take

personal way, but I think the challenge is how

with his first collection for the house this SS17.”

far can a designer push it when joining a new

Alas, as a Saint Laurent and YSL enthusiast, I

fashion house, especially one that is steeped

do wonder whether the former Versus Versace

in its own history with a strong signature

creative director’s uber-sexy aesthetic will appeal

aesthetic. You have to stay true to the brand

to my minimalist tastebuds. Whereas were it

and speak to the loyal shoppers, but you need

Ghesquière, or better yet Phoebe Philo, my name

to make your mark in a new role and evolve

would already be on the waitlist. What about you?

Valentino’s last collection with Maria Grazia Chiuri as she leaves cocreative director Pier Paolo Piccioli

Dolce & Gabbana a/w16

Quiet Achiever

se a s o n al s ty le

Blumarine

Retreat to the serene countryside and fall into comforting fabrics, such as soft wool and warm fur. Silky slip dresses unstiffen strong natured boots, while cropped trousers and a crisp white shirt offers practicality for outdoor exploring.

3 1

The Dreamer

ChloĂŠ

Drape yourself in floaty silhouettes and soothing fabrics like suede and velvet as your wardrobe becomes as free as the season ahead. Let a dusty palette of pink and green guide your selection, while refined jewellery adds a subtle charm.

5 7 6

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Tal k i ng P o i nt

Have You Got Fashion Commitment Issues? Navigate your way around the boom of brilliant emerging designers – for autumn/winter 2016, which lesser-known names are worth the investment? By Gillian Brett

Once September comes around, it’s natural to experience a little sartorial fatigue. Staring forlornly into your wardrobe at the same things you’ve been wearing since May can leave you feeling somewhat uninspired. So, thank goodness for the autumn/winter 2016 collections and all the refreshing newness they propose. We’ve already drafted up a shopping list that is dominated by Gucci, Prada and Chloé. We want Dries Van Noten’s velvet booties and a mini Mansur Gavriel bucket bag. For this season’s most sought after velvet dress, Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini turned out a divine pearl-encrusted version, but as Serafini is only on his third season, is it too soon to commit? Investing in a new brand can serve you and your wardrobe well; no one can deny the joy of a friend or colleague fawning over your newly acquired statement piece. And, when asked who it’s by, a joyous internal monologue plays out in which you mentally applaud yourself for your style veracity, before nonchalantly explaining that it’s a new under-the-radar French label you discovered on holiday, or an emerging London designer whom you found online, etcetera, etcetera. Of course, investing in a relatively unknown, rookie designer comes with an element of apprehension, too. What if the next collection from the label doesn’t meet expectations, and your new, utterly unique silk and chantilly lace skirt is tarnished by some very bad design decisions? Suddenly, all your bragging rights are revoked, and when asked who your skirt is by, you find yourself struck down with an opportune bout of sartorial amnesia.

Jonathan Simkhai aw/16 collection

Commitment-phobes take note; these are the new season brands you can invest in with peace of mind.

The new courtier • Roberta Einer – The Balmain alumna doesn’t compromise on fabrics and construction. Using the traditional couture techniques Olivier Rousteing taught her, her embellished silk dresses are made in the same Italian factories as Christopher Kane. The new streetwear set • Facetasm – For anyone who loves Sacai, meet your new favourite label. Hiromichi Ochiai founded this label in Tokyo in 2007, naming it after the many facets of a diamond, which reflects the brand’s eclectic style ethos. Expect fabric combinations that shouldn’t work, but absolutely do. • Sandy Liang – The New York-based designer amassed a cult following before she’d even earned her degree from Parsons School of Design. One half tomboy, one half girly-girl, Liang’s clash of glittering lurex tops, candyfloss-coloured cashmere and leather biker jackets adorned with pastel flowers looks how we imagine a Simone Rocha and Marques’ Almeida collaboration would: Fun, yet exquisite. The new luxury • Monse – It’s hard to believe it has only been a year since Oscar de la Renta alums Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim teamed up and set to work reappropriating menswear staples into desirable eveningwear for women. Much critical acclaim and a devoted celebrity following has ensued. • Attico – Italian street-style darlings Gilda Ambrosio and Giorgia Tordini showed the first collection from their new brand, Attico (meaning ‘penthouse’ in Italian), in February at Milan Fashion Week. In keeping with their boudoir theme, the seasonless collection of luxurious robes and slinky slipdresses are so sensuous, they can legitimately double up as nightwear. The new directional designers • Jacquemus – Think JW Anderson’s surrealist signatures, with a French twist. Simon Porte Jacquemus is right on the cusp of being considered a Parisian heavyweight designer with his sculptural silhouettes and unexpected colour combinations. • Wales Bonner – The very deserving recipient of this year’s LVMH award, which recognises young talent in the fashion industry, creates gender-neutral collections, having originally studied menswear at Central Saint Martins. After a year of mentorship from LVMH executives, in addition to the €300,000 prize money, great things are expected from the fledgling British designer.

Monse aw/16 collection

Roberta Einer aw/16 collection

Jacquemus aw/16 collection

102

Nam es to K no w

Yoyo Cao Popping up at international fashion weeks everywhere, the Singaporean founder of androgynous label, Exhibit, makes it her mission to inspire women to dress simply yet powerfully. Her blog is an intelligent edit of fashion,

Expect the unexpected from Cao. From the clean and minimal aesthetic seen at Alexander Wang to the playful injections of femininity we see here at Paris Fashion Week A/W 16. Handle: @YoyoKulala, Blog: www.YoyoKulala.com

Words by Laura Beaney. Images courtesy of Getty

beauty, lifestyle and travel infused with her own standout street style.

Shaping The Streets Moving through the streets of New York, Paris, London and Milan, street style moments are happening across each city as the Fashion Weeks rage on. Whilst seasoned stars likes Helena Bordon and Susie Bubble remain a sure thing, there are new contenders that have started to delight our eyes. Here, we share the latest sartorial leaders that have been causing a stir on the street style circuit.

104 Evangelie Smyrniotaki’s style marries a put-together edit of monochrome basics with high-octane moments like this Maison Valentino jacket sported at Paris Fashion Week A/W16. Handle: @StyleHeroine, Blog: www.StyleHeroine.com

Evangelie Smyrniotaki A stylist by trade, this blogger favours luxury, looking to brands like Celine, Ann Demeulemeester and The Row for her wardrobe staples. Hailing from Greece, take to Smyrniotaki’s Instagram account for her dreamy world of Athens’ white washed walls, fashion week finery and a dose of her expertly executed beauty routine.

Margret Zhang At just 23 the law student finds herself on the front row at New York Fashion Week and was snapped daring to wear denim during Paris Couture. A rising star making her mark across the industry, Zhang is recognised as a writer, stylist, photographer, creative director and founder of her widely followed blog.

Showing that proportion-play works for the petite, Zhang is pictured at Milan Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Fashion Week S/S 17 using tailoring to her advantage. Handle: @Margaret__Zhang, Blog: www.ShineByThree.com

106 Versatility is the name of Manfield’s game, transitioning effortlessly between boyfriend-inspired indie outfits and floor-grazing gowns like the one seen here at Milan Men’s Fashion Week SS17. Handle: @PatriciaManfield, Blog: www.TheAtelier.me

Patricia Manfield Showing up everywhere for all the right reasons, where Manfield walks, street style photographers follow. The Italian is a poster girl for the casual chic of her country – think white Adidas Originals paired with sheer silver dresses. Dividing her time between music making, fashion week flitting and business school her platforms provide the perfect vantage point to view her idyllic life.

Charlotte Groeneveld Groeneveldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s appeal is understandable; unlike some streetstyle stars that air on the side of eccentricity the full-time blogger wears high fashion labels in an approachable and universal way. Now based in Manhattan, the Dutch writer called upon her years of digital experience in the fashion arena when she started The Fashion Guitar.

Groeneveld gives us a carefully curated wardrobe of staples like this classic Chanel set sported at Paris Haute Couture Week AW16. Handle: @TheFashionGuitar, Blog: www.TheFashionGuitar.com

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Fa sh i o n TRENDS

AW16

Chloé

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1. Mary Katrantzou | 2. Roberto Cavalli | 3. Givenchy | 4. Maison Margiela | 5. Sportmax

Urban Cowgirl A piece of the North American prairie made its way to Europe with Wild West and cowboy-style influences appearing on clothes and accessories at Sportmax, Givenchy and Mary Katrantzou.

112 1

Rule Britannia Herringbone jackets and checked coats in earthy hues conjure up visions of the English countryside at Gucci and Preen, while Trussardiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s headscarves give a royal nod to Queen Elizabeth II.

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Power Pelts More is most certainly more when it comes to the seasonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s statement fur coats with luxurious pelts in flamboyant colours, patterns and finishes. A must-have for any maximalist.

1. Fendi | 2. Gucci | 3. Prada | 4. Marc Jacobs

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A Furried Affair Regal fur stoles are the ideal eveningwear accompaniment during the regionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cooler months. Drape over one shoulder for chic nonchalance or tie loosely at the neck for a polished look.

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Puff Daddy From sportswear inspired styles at Pucci to belted versions at Burberry Prorsum, the versatile puffer is not just for the ski slopes. Cinch at the waist for city slick.

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1. Proenza Schouler | 2. Antonio Berardi | 3. Prada | 4. Altuzarra | 5. DKNY

Straight Laced From thick and contrasting at Proenza Schouler to silky and undone at DKNY, criss-crossed shoelace details add an unexpected and intricate point of interest.

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Frill Factor Frothy and feminine pierrot collars offer a romantic and whimsical alternative to the turtleneck. Make them the focal point of an outfit by pairing with simple knitwear.

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Fake it Glossy vinyl, leather and PVC bring a vintage 80s vibe to Acneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s coats, while Rei Kawakubo reimagines the 18th century punk in baby pink at Comme des GarĂ§ons.

1. Acne | 2. Comme des Garรงons | 3. Proenza Schouler | 4. Burberry Prorsum

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Defined Proportions The corset is back like never before. Sculptural and modern at Loewe and seductive and curve-enhancing at Balmain, layer over fitted tops for a look thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s so now.

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Velvet Grandeur Opulent velvet looks appeared on many runways from New York to Paris in a range of shapes, forms and hues that work for both day and night.

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1. Zac Posen | 2. Naeem Khan | 3. Alexander McQueen | 4. Marc Jacobs | 5. Maison Margiela

Caped Crusade Capes make their mark as the seasonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most dramatic outerwear offering. Whether dark and theatrical or ornately embellished this is a piece well worth investing in.

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Heavenly Creatures Billowing gowns of the most delicate fabrics in ethereal snowy whites and sheer icy blues bring graceful movement and a whisper of romance to winter dresses.

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Lace Rebellion Embrace your inner femme fatale in the seasonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s black lace dresses. Go super seductive in boudoir-inspired styles by Reem Acra or project an aura of mystery in Elie Saab.

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AW16

c o l o u r T r en ds

andPrint

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Midnight Hour Opulent shades of inky blue cast a mysterious shadow over the AW16 runways. As evidenced by Kenzoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s velvet separates and Lanvinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s elegant silhouettes, this colour works for day and night.

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Tangerine Dream Many designers called upon zesty hues of burnt orange, marigold and tangerine to pack an unexpected and vivid punch. Wear head-to-toe for a full-blown sartorial statement.

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Monochrome Magic Summerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s colourful stripes transitioned into a monochromatic palette. Kept feminine with some frill factor at Rodarte and bold and striking at MSGM, this look can be dressed up or down.

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Pink Ladies A spectrum of pink flooded the runways from New York to Paris. Fiercely feminine neon shades took centre stage at Iceberg, while Simone Rochaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s demure powdery hues epitomised ladylike chic.

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Green on Green Rich jewel tone greens in luxurious fabrics brought a touch of opulence to collections in Milan and Paris. Layer up similar shades for a look that’s refined and sophisticated.

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High Voltage Put on the glitz with the seasonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s shimmery fabrics and embellishments. Metallic paillettes have a hard-hitting impact at Rochas and large sequin discs are used for lustrous colourblocking at Blumarine.

1. Blumarine | 2. Preen | 3. Sonia Rykiel | 4. Rochas

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Ship shape Graphic prints and patterns inspired by the digital era introduced a playful edge at Emporio Armani while Anya Hindmarchâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s funky take on pixelation made for powerful coats and bags.

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A cc es s o ry T r ends

Christian Dior, photographed by kevin tachman

AW16

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Shoe Shine The statement shoe is back and prettier than ever. Sparkle in Balenciagaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s decadent crystal encrusted pumps or enlist Aignerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s structural heels for a more minimal take.

1.Balenciaga | 2. Aigner | 3. Miu Miu | 4. Dolce & Gabbana

Safety Statement Safety pins made their case as autumnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s accessory du jour. Stick to one oversized earring or brooch for maximum impact.

1. balenciaga | 2. CĂ&#x2030;LINE | 3. Sonia Rykiel | 4. Vionnet

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The Furse Dainty fur bags and purses provide a tactile alternative to leather with miniaturesized crossbodies and clutches offered up in a variety of hues and shapes.

1. Christopher Kane | 2. Jason Wu | 3. Michael Kors | 4. Salvatore Ferragamo

Heirloom Jewels Intricate heirloom-style jewellery with rustic antique finishes and set with oversized precious stones will lend timeless glamour to any look.

1. Alexander McQueen | 2. Daks | 3. Lanvin | 4. Ralph Lauren

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The Kitten Comeback The kitten heel made its runway comeback in a range of finishes and fabrics at Versace, J.W. Anderson and Opening Ceremony.

1. J.W. Anderson | 2. Opening Ceremony | 3. Vivienne Westwood | 4. Versace

Heads Up Wide brimmed panama hats are the perfect accessory for the urban explorer. Opt for styles in unexpected colours such as burgundy to make a definitive statement.

1. AgnĂ¨s B | 2. Elie Saab | 3. Ralph Lauren | 4. Trussardi

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Mineral Matters Designers sought inspiration from the natural world with oversized mineral amulets and necklaces in azure blues and purples having a striking effect.

1. Elie Saab | 2. Dries Van Noten | 3. Alexis Mabille | 4. Givenchy

Pearl Perfection Statement pearls established themselves as the accessory of the season. Go big or go home with a single earring or wear a choker for unconventional chic.

1. Dries Van Noten | 2. Isabel Marant | 3. Marni | 4. Stella McCartney

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Haute Handles From tricolour doctor silhouettes at Dolce & Gabbana to sleek grey foldovers at Jil Sander, the top handle handbag is offered up in a variety of shapes and hues.

1. Prada | 2. Jil Sander | 3. Versace | 4. Dolce & Gabbana

Shoe Candy Ankle boots in exotic skins and colourful hues will playfully energise any winter outfit. Be unabashedly opulent in burnished gold booties or funk it up in zigzag boots.

1. Lanvin | 2. Salvatore Ferragamo | 3. 3.1 Philip Lim | 4. Max Mara

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fa sh i o n w eek e dit

Couture Moments From models walking on water at Fendi’s Haute Fourrure show in Rome and Maria Grazia Chiuri’s romantic swansong at Valentino, to Rami Al Ali’s Parisian debut and everything in between, MOJEH takes a look at the defining moments from the Autumn/Winter Haute Couture 2016 shows.

Giambattista Valli sent out a trio of tiered tulle confections as his romantic finale gowns. The delicate frothy layers in deep burgundy, lavender and white earned Valli a standing ovation from his front row.

Return to Romance

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The Big Apple served as Elie Saab’s collection inspiration, with New York’s skyline and architectural details of the Chrysler Building worked onto coats and ballgowns. Sultry feathers and sparkling embellishments captured the city’s gritty spirit and glamourous sophistication.

Packed with attitude, Zuhair Murad’s collection took its cues from the 70s. Models walked the runway in trailing velvet capes, suede over-the-knee boots, widebrimmed hats and beautifully embroidered gowns, as Queen’s Bohemian Rhapsody blared out.

Alberta Ferretti staged her first-ever couture runway show at her brand’s Parisian headquarters. The undersea theme saw pearls and seashell embellishments sewn on to dresses, while fringing, silk ribbons and beading conveyed the movement of waves.

Fendi’s 90th anniversary show titled Legends and Fairytales was one for the history books. Models in enchanting gowns and furs appeared to walk on water as they gracefully navigated a plexiglass runway constructed over Rome’s Trevi Fountain.

The Haute Hue

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Atelier Versace’s colour palette consisted of blush pink, minty green, blood red and soft lilac. However it was the house’s pale icy blue that really got people talking. Seen at Armani Privé, Fendi, and Maison Margiela, this frosty shade is the hue of the season.

Bertrand Guyon used Elsa Schiaparelli’s 1938 circus show as a point of reference for his collection. Playful embroidery gave way to a plethora of elegant red carpet dresses, the standout of which was a golden silk chiffon dévoré gown, draped and folded

Structural Details

with architectural precision.

A stroll through a Japanese forest was the catalyst for Jean Paul Gaultier’s collection, conveyed literally through wood prints and a leafy, autumnal palette. Intricate draping created a wood grain effect, complete with carefully constructed deviations to resemble knotted wood.

170 Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli celebrated Shakespeare with ruffled Elizabethan collars, puffed sleeves and billowing skirts for their final show together. Meticulous details, such as the beaded quote ‘If you love me I’ll always be in your heart, if you hate me I’ll always be in your mind’, took a painstaking

Intricate Insights

580 hours to embroider.

Elie Saab’s collection was one of his most expressive to date, with beads, ostrich feathers, sequins and gold silk thread all used as lavish ornamentation. Shoulder pieces set with crystal stones, on gowns and jumpsuits, resembled fine jewellery.

Peace, love, harmony, unity and hope were the catch-words Georges Hobeika used to encapsulate his collection. Awash with pale pinks, blues and dove greys, Hobeika adorned his gowns with decadently delicate flora and fauna detailing.

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Ramiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Reign Dubai-based couturier Rami Al Ali showcased with a runway show as opposed to his usual presentation format for the very first time. His catwalk debut explored the concept of togetherness in mosaic art, through feminine 50s-style silhouettes in pistachio greens, smoky greys and dusky pinks.

174 Valentino’s tailored jacquard shorts suit held strong daywear appeal. A peplum frill added a feminine flair to the jacket’s fitted bodice, while peek-a-boo pleats created subtle visual breaks from the fabric’s

Universal Appeal

rich copper tones.

Dior designers Lucie Meier and Serge Ruffieux cited the house’s iconic Bar suit as the cornerstone of their collection. This was indeed evident in the presented silhouettes – however, the duo reinterpreted and modernised, experimenting with layered organza and silk georgette to create movement and fluidity.

Backstage Beauty At Chanel, teased curly hair was piled high on heads and finished with a satin bow headband. Clever highlighting, pink blush and full sets of false eyelashes gave models the appearance of porcelain dolls.

It was all about the eyes for Dior’s Creative and Image Director of makeup, Peter Philips, who ‘twisted the codes’ with graphic black winged liner looks to frame the shape of each model’s eye. Luminous foundation and lip gloss completed the look.

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Fallâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Fresh Force Crafted for the great outdoors, this seasonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s dresses demand extreme backdrops and the freedom of fall. A crisp palette of black and white alludes to classic beauty, while avant-garde silver accessories add an element of cool.

Photographed by Anthony Arquier Styled by Gemma Bedini

Slip, BLUEMARINE | Dress, YOHJI YAMAMOTO | Shoes, VERSACE | Necklace, SAINT LAURENT | Jewellery throughout, JENNIFER FISHER

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Dress, CHANELâ&#x20AC;¨

Dress, CHRISTIAN DIOR | Shoes, CÉLINE

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Dress, CALVIN KLEIN

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Dress, trouser, belt and shoes, CÃ&#x2030;LINE

Suit, ERMANNO SCERVINO

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Dress, CHRISTIAN DIOR | Shoes, CÃ&#x2030;LINE

Dress, VERSACE

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Dress, MUGLER | Boots, VALENTINO

Model: Ilse de Boer at IMG Models Hair and Makeup Artist: Cyril Laine Production: Louis Agency

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Dress, VICTORIA BECKHAM | Sweater, CHRISTIAN WIJNANTS | Ring and bracelet, SWAROVSKIâ&#x20AC;¨| P9 gold phone, HUAWEI

C u r b Ap p eal Autumnal citywear takes on a laissez-faire attitude with soft knits, sheers and juxtaposed layering. Lean towards elements of black mixed with varied shades of light blues, slowly easing you into the season.

Photographed by Pieter Henketâ&#x20AC;¨ Styled by Ekaterina Razgonova

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Blouse, SOLACE | Skirt, CHRISTOPHER KANE | Shoes, vintage YSL | Sunglasses, MIU MIU

Top, ring and earrings, CHRISTIAN DIOR | Elegant watch with white strap and adjustable faces, HUAWEI

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Jacket and blouse, VIVIENNE WESTWOOD | Earrings, SWAROVSKI

Blouse, CHRISTOPHER KANE | Skirt, STELLA MCCARTNEY | Rings, SWAROVSKI | Talk band B3 watch, black on black design, HUAWEI

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Top, skirt, ring and earrings, CHRISTIAN DIOR

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Sweater, STELLA MCCARTNEY |â&#x20AC;¨Skirt, CLAES IVERSEN | Talk band watch with beige leather strap, HUAWEI

Sweater and trousers, VICTORIA BECKHAM | Gold metal watch with adjustable faces, HUAWEI

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Dress, SELF PORTRAIT | Shirt, TOM FORD | Rings, SWAROVSKI | Talk band B3 watch with gold lined face and black metal strap, HUAWEI

Model: Veroniek at Paparazzi Models  Hair & Makeup Artist: Magdalena Loza   Stylist’s Assistant: Eline Benting  Director of Photography: Jochem de Vet Casting and Local Production: Roger Inniss at Boom Productions Production: Louis Agency

Zhenya wears silk scarf, wool coat and Blissful Dior earring, CHRISTIAN DIOR Marta wears Bar jacket, wool skirt, shoes and Blissful Dior ring, CHRISTIAN DIOR

Small Town Dreams From high-necks and traditional tailoring to whimsical prints and plenty of silks, Christian Diorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s latest collection is as refined as it is innocent. In an ode to the days of young adulthood, we watch as the wardrobe determines the mood.

Photographed by Sarai Mari Styled by Anna Katsanis

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Marta wears Bar jacket, wool skirt, shoes and Blissful Dior ring, CHRISTIAN DIOR Zhenya wears wool coat, silk scarf and shoes, CHRISTIAN DIOR

Manuela wears knitted top, skirt, shoes, Runway bag, Blissful Dior ring and earrings, CHRISTIAN DIOR

Laura wears silk top, crepe skirt, shoes, Wisteria Edge scarf and Runway bag, CHRISTIAN DIOR Manuela wears printed velvet top, crepe skirt and shoes, CHRISTIAN DIOR

Laura wears silk dress and shoes, CHRISTIAN DIOR Zhenya wears embroidered dress and Blissful Dior earrings, CHRISTIAN DIOR

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Laura wears silk dress, shoes and Blissful Dior ring, CHRISTIAN DIOR Manuela wears knitted top, jacket, skirt, Runway bag and Blissful Dior ring, CHRISTIAN DIOR Marta wears Bar jacket, wool skirt, Blissful Dior ring and earrings, CHRISTIAN DIOR Zhenya wears wool coat, silk scarf, shoes and Blissful Dior earrings, CHRISTIAN DIOR

Zhenya wears embroidered dress, Blissful Dior earrings and shoes, CHRISTIAN DIOR Manuela wears knitted top, skirt, shoes, Blissful Dior ring and earrings, CHRISTIAN DIOR Marta wears satin dress, shoes and Blissful Dior ring, CHRISTIAN DIOR Laura wears silk dress and shoes, CHRISTIAN DIOR

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Laura wears silk top, Wisteria Edge scarf, Runway bag and Blissful Dior ring, CHRISTIAN DIOR Zhenya wears silk top, skirt, Runway bag, Blissful Dior ring and earrings, CHRISTIAN DIOR

Models: Laura at Society Models Manuela at Society Models Zhenya at Trump Models Marta at Trump Models Photographer’s Assistants: Keisuke Tsujimoto Alvin Kean Wong Stylist’s Assistant: Jaclyn Mastropasqua Makeup Artist: Misuzu Miyake using M.A.C Cosmetics Hair Stylist: Matthew Tuozzoli using Oribe Hair Care Hair Stylist’s Assistant: Assistant Joshua Briz Videographer (film on MOJEH.com): Charlie Gomez Car: Miyako Bellizzi

The Observer Succumb to the candid nature of todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s world and ensure your street style is true to form at all times. From three-dimensional layering to graphic florals, attention to detail is obligatory.

Photographed by Pelle Lannefors Styled by Anna Klein

Dress, ACNE STUDIOS | Shoes, MM6

Dress, ACNE STUDIOS

Shirt and jumpsuit, MM6

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Coat and dress, YOHJI YAMAMOTO | Shoes, MM6

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Jacket, shirt, skirt and shoes, CÃ&#x2030;LINE

Top and skirt, MM6

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Dress, VALENTINO | Shoes, MM6

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Jacket, CACHAREL | Sweater, ACNE STUDIOS

Coat and shoes, MM6

Top, ELLERY | Skirt, CHRISTIAN WIJNANTS | Shoes, MM6

Jacket, YOHJI YAMAMOTO | Top, JOURDEN | Trousers, BARBARA BUI

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Jacket and dress, JOURDEN | Shoes, MM6 | Stockings, WOLFORD

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Top, CHRISTIAN WIJNANTS | Trousers, ELLERY| Shoes, MM6

Model: Barbara Lear at Next Model Hair Stylist: Bénédicte Cazau-Beyret at ArtList Makeup Artist: Gregoris at Calliste Photographer’s Assistant: Linda Leonard Stylist’s Assistant: Dominyka Angelyte Videographer (film on MOJEH.com): Gregory Hoepffner and Nicolas Di Vincenzo Editor: Kelly Baldwin

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M OJEH A cces s orie s

Replica of the tiara made by Van Cleef & Arpels for H.I.H Farah Pahlavi, first Empress of Iran, 1967

Van Cleef & Arpels:

A Realm of Regality Relishing the intimate connection between Van Cleef & Arpels and the royals, we pinpoint the historic high notes that have shaped the story of the Maison’s latest emerald-based collection, Émeraude en Majesté.

The Serrania necklace is created around a charming old Colombian emerald, both vibrant and consistent in colour.

Collaret acquired by H.R.H. Princess Faiza of Egypt from Van Cleef & Arpels, 1929

Card illustration of a bracelet acquired by the Duke of Windsor, 1937

Lune d’eau Between the Finger Ring

On the day of her coronation the Empress Farah Pahlavi wore more than 2,000 carats of emeralds set in her imperial jewels by Van Cleef & Arpels.

The Shah of Iran laid a crown encased with 1,542 precious stones on the Empress Farah Pahlavi’s head. It was 1967 and the masterpiece was the culmination of 1,469 diamonds, 36 emeralds, 34 rubies, 2 spinels, and a single, spectacular 150-carat emerald (not to mention the 105 pearls). The Empress stood tall in her 4-pound crown, exuding the power and prowess emblematic of royalty. This moment marked a high point in a remarkable relationship that has always existed between royals and Van Cleef & Arpels. The road to coronation began one year before, when Pierre Arpels discovered that the Iranian government had selected Van Cleef & Arpels’ submission for the crown design. As was the tradition at the time, the jewels from the Central Bank of Iran were to be used and, due to the security surrounding them, Pierre Arpels was unable to take them back to Paris. “The Maison travelled to Iran several times in order to design, create and set the tiara with emeralds as sumptuous as they were impressive,” reveals Nicolas Bos, CEO and Creative Director of Van Cleef & Arpels. “The main stone was not less than 150 carats.” As well as this prestigious and historic commission, Van Cleef & Arpels also crafted designs for the Shah Reza Pahlavi’s sisters and daughters. Now, the jeweller to the dynasties revisits their regal relationships once more as

the mounting disappears to exalt the stone.

in her time, very avant-garde. She had her

they set out to create their latest emerald-

Indeed, from the pigeon-blood Thibaw ruby,

own, very special style and was the origin

based collection, Émeraude en Majesté. An

formerly belonging to the King of Burma,

of several trends within the Maison,” reveals

ode to an exceptional stone like the one that

to the spectacular 60-carat ‘Prince Edward

Bos. The iconic Cadenas watch, a lock-based

once found favour with Empress Pahlavi, Van

of York Diamond’, the Maison’s history has

design that suggests a strong alliance between

Cleef & Arpels spent 10 years searching for

regularly been punctuated with storied stones

two individuals, and the Zip necklace, a feat

rare emeralds of outstanding quality, each

and the lives that collided with them of equal

of engineering that references the Maison’s

stone a perfect colour match to the next. A

legend. The Maharani of Baroda, the Duchess

attachment to couture are two such pieces

collection that employs centuries of tradition

of Windsor, Princess Grace of Monaco and

that endured the test of time and spawned

and superior skill, the craftsmen have created

Princess Faiza of Egypt are just a few of the

from the Duchess’ hands-on approach to

suppleness through intricate and articulated

formidable and oft troubled female figures

her own pieces. Against all the odds, her

settings, whilst associations of colours magnify

that frequented the Maison’s workshop in the

relationship with the Prince of Wales endured,

the emerald in all of its nuances, ensuring that

Place Vendôme. “Mrs. Wallis Simpson was,

their adoration for one another reflected in

236 their mutual appreciation of fine jewellery. An

accounts, her distinct appreciation for the

saw the previous rulers flee to the States,

intimate glimpse into the couple’s bond, it

combination of old stones juxtaposed with

many leaving their jewels behind to be sold

was Van Cleef & Arpels that crafted specially

contemporary settings garnered attention at

and dismounted. As Elizabeth Taylor once

engraved gifts like the bracelet designed

the parties she frequented at the palaces of

said, “Having jewellery is a temporary gift. In

by René Sim Lacaze and given to Wallis

Cairo and Alexandria. In fact, the Maison was

truth, we ‘owners’ are just the caretakers,”

Simpson a few months before the King’s

an all-time favourite during those splendour-

and this is true of Faiza’s 1929 Van Cleef

abdication of the throne; it was inscribed

soaked days in pre-revolution Egypt. Van

& Arpels necklace, a piece that was feared

with his poignant words – “Hold Tight”.

Cleef & Arpels were the jewellers of choice,

lost, but re-discovered decades later to be

At the same time, in a different region, another

responsible for Queen Nazli’s spectacular and

auctioned at Christies in 2013. Mirrored in

high society love affair with jewels played

fabled diamond bib necklace consisting of

Émeraude en Majesté, Faiza’s tremendous art-

out. Among Van Cleef & Arpels’s illustrious

673 baguette-cut and brilliant-cut diamonds,

deco set piece uses a backdrop of diamonds

clientele was Princess Faiza Rauf, the owner

paired with a matching tiara for the wedding

to showcase the true vivacity and depth of

of a jewellery collection of great significance.

of her eldest daughter, Princess Fawzia.

old Colombian emeralds. Today, each stone

Like Simpson, the princess was provocative

The majesty of the court faded and the years

is expertly examined under a northern light,

in her actions and a trendsetter for her time.

after the 1952 revolution marked a new era

a tradition held by three generations of the

Equally elegant and fashion-forward by all

of austerity for Egypt. The exile of the royals

Maison’s Mains d’Or or ‘golden hands’, like the ones that gathered Faiza’s prized emeralds during the Twenties. Transcending cultures and time the connection

The workshop, sculpting the setting for the Serrania necklace

between royals and their emeralds can be attributed to a perceived correlation between the stone and divinity. “For some royal families, emeralds are believed to have special powers that can have a great influence on destiny,” Bos explains. “In India, emeralds were often used in Maharajahs’ pieces as talismans.” It was this type of Indian tradition that inspired Claude and Jacques Arpels as

The Twist Émeraude Bracelet takes its style from the torque bracelets that inspired the Maison from the 1920s onwards.

Recreating all the vitality of a verdant bouquet the Bouquet D’Emeraudes Clip illustrates Van Cleef & Arpels’ fondness for nature

Gouaché of the Serrania necklace

far back as the Twenties. In Émeraude en

extraordinarily, the gems were supplied by

of the 20th century. And, what of the owners?

Majesté, the Talisman Papillons necklace,

the Maharani and formerly belonged to the

Perhaps most noticeable is the spirited and

laden with cultured pearls and checkered

Baroda Crown Jewels.

fascinating nature of the succession of female

with sapphires surrounding a magnificent

Like the Egyptian royals, a similar twist of

royals that the Maison has adorned. Amongst

16.52-carat emerald, evokes memories

fate befell Devi when Indian independence

the sea of green in the most recent collection,

of one particular woman that the Maison

was declared in 1947. With the Maharajas

there is a sense of this spirit, comprising

describes as its ‘most extraordinary’ client

and Maharanis losing their influence in their

some of the world’s most exceptional stones,

– Maharani Sita Devi Sahib of Baroda.

home country, Devi elected to live a life of

scrupulously selected in the Maison’s favoured

A divorcee, the Maharani was referred to as the

luxury in Paris, where she regaled in splendid

deep green hue and plucked out of old-

‘Indian Wallis Simpson’, with one of the world’s

saris and indulged her European taste for high

world mines from Colombia to Zambia, or

most extensive fine jewellery collections,

jewellery. A favourite pastime, the Maharani

even sourced as antiques. One can’t help

including her first Van Cleef & Arpels piece,

spent her days having her husband’s Crown

but wonder – which of them would wear

a brooch set with a large engraved emerald

Jewels converted into contemporary designs.

Émeraude en Majesté today? From sketches

in 1946. Amongst the Maharani’s 300-piece

Over a 20-year period, Devi had almost all of

to the intimate assembly only associated

collection dating back to the Moghul era was

her collection reset by Van Cleef & Arpels.

with haute jewellery, Émeraude en Majesté

the specular Baroda necklace ordered in 1950,

A bracelet to symbolise the abdication of a

is more than just a throwback to an earlier,

its exquisite lotus flower design consisting

king and emeralds taken from India’s crown

more glamorous time. Today’s collection

of 13 pear-shaped Colombian emeralds

jewels and reset in Paris, a glimpse into the

remains relevant and covetable, especially

and weighing 154.70-carats. Set with pavé

world of Van Cleef & Arpels is a platform from

to those women that allow themselves the

diamonds and sparkling with emeralds,

which to explore the historical turning points

luxury of breaking free from convention.

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HIGH NOTES

delpozo

2 3 4 Colour Wash Adorn yourself with precious stones in a sheen of dynamic colour. Cluster a selection of decretive brooches and pins to the lapel of your jacket for customised style, while opting for pieces that celebrate the craftsmanship of talented artisans. 1. CHRISTIAN DIOR | 2. CARRERA Y CARRERA | 3. LA MARQUISE | 4. PASQUALE BRUNI | 5. ELIZABETH GAGE

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BALMAIN

2 4

Cool Compilation Add dimension to your treasure trove of fine jewellery and enlist pieces that offer a contrast of textures. Let polished pearls rest against ornate gem formations and costume a diamond encrusted watch with a satin strap in an intimate social setting. 1. BVLGARI | 2. MIZUKI @net-a-porter.com | 3. YOKO LONDON | 4. PASQUALE BRUNI | 5. LA MARQUISE

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S e a s o nal Watche s

DiamonD

Dials

A sophisticated statement from your everyday timepiece.

Diamonds are an assertion of female independence; theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re associated with wealth, power, longevity and commitment â&#x20AC;&#x201C; our love affair with them has stylishly survived the decades. These diamond dialed-wares are an opulent necessity, yet they remain functional, as well as durable. So, whether you prefer a delicate bracelet-sized gem-setting or a loud savoir-faire statement, these exquisitely bejeweled horological beauties are worth falling in love with.

Mother Nature Purity and precision are at the heart of Franck Mullerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s jewel-mottled Galet collection. Heavily influenced by Mother Nature, specifically pebbles, this polished unisex wristwatch is available in both black and white and pays homage to simplicity. Its stunning dial is painstakingly manufactured, requiring 20 layers of lacquer to achieve the emblematic and iconic sunburst. Thanks to incredible in-house capabilities, soft and smooth angles and highly-complex movements make this timepiece a true example of timeless elegance.

Paragon Pyramids Don’t let those deceptive trapeze-cut diamonds fool you. Beneath the Médor Serti Baguette’s incandescent façade is a discreet white gold square case and quartz calibre. First created in 1993 and inspired by Hermès’ dog collars, the latest 23.3mm model is smothered in 312 dazzling baguette-cut diamonds and boasts a majestic Ceylon-cut diamond on its crown. White gold pyramids are set with an additional 218 white diamonds on the Médor Serti Baguette’s sapphire blue alligator strap.

Perfect Fusion Equipped with the new-generation calibre 3235 and backed by 14 patents, the Oyster Perpetual Pearlmaster 39 is a treasure among gem set watches. It’s an elegant and functional timepiece, which incorporates the Chronergy escapement developed in-house by Rolex. Crafted from rounded solid links in 18-carat Everose gold, it’s fitted with a concealed Crownclap that’s both robust and opulent. Adorned with the rarest brilliant-cut diamonds, the Pearlmaster’s Oyster case is waterproof to a depth of 100m.

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Emerald Grandeur Zambia’s Kagem emerald mine, which is owned by Fabergé’s parent company, Gemfields, is the dramatic inspiration behind Lady Libertine II. Its dial is set with a central cabochon emerald, as well as an 18-carat white gold motif; 2.22-carat strands of hand-cut satin-finished emerald are set in 1.97-carats of brilliant-cut white diamonds and mother-of-pearl. Boasting a diamond set bezel and manual winding movement, this spectacular timepiece is wrapped in a 36mm 18-carat white gold case, with alligator strap.

Vintage Opulence As its name would suggest, the diamond-peppered Dior VIII Grand Bal Pièce Unique Ondine timepiece, featuring the Dior Inversé 11½ calibre, pays ode to the label’s 1947 Haute Couture Ondine dress. Limited to 12 unique pieces, in either white, rose or yellow gold, the liquid effect seen in the undulating gilt of the dial, which is either baguette-set or snow-set in a woven pattern, gives the impression of movement, recalling the swirl of Ondine’s innumerable pleats.

M y t h o l o g i ca l

Enigma The Collection: We step into the intrepid world of Lydia Courteille, who provides an ode to the Queen of Sheba. Taking a page out of a spellbinding tale, Lydia Courteille uses her designs to narrate a legend of mystique. In her latest collection, Courteille invites you to a fictional setting, in which the Queen of Sheba once reigned. “I took a trip to Ethiopia a few years ago, so the images of what it would be like came to me instantly. Then, I thought of the Queen of Sheba’s story and realised the dream,” recounted Courteille. The alluring sorceress has become a muse for the collection, along with the ancient folklore surrounding Ethiopia. A line of exquisite jewels is created through baroque styling and is crafted in incomparable detail. The considered selection of gemstones is critical in her designs, with green tsavorites and peridots taking precedence. “I found a lot of green tourmalines in different tones, so I closed my eyes and immediately decided to make a collection,” revealed Courteille. Her works are conversational, often toying with dark humour and created with either a natural, historical or symbolical reference to them. Top to bottom: 18 karat brown rhodium gold bracelet with brown diamonds, tsavorites, and yellow sapphires, 18 karat black rhodium gold earrings with white diamonds, tsavorites, yellow sapphires, peridots, and green tourmalines, 18 karat black rhodium gold tiara with brown diamonds, yellow sapphires, tsavorites, and peridot, LYDIA COURTEILLE

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T h e T r end

Bound B y

Nat u r e White diamonds, fat pearls, warm yellow gold and vivid shades of gemstones take unexpected inspiration from nature, and are fast becoming a sought-after alternative to classic floral designs.

From brilliant diamond wheat sheaves and ample emeralds, to haute couture clusters and Paraíba tourmalines, jaw-dropping jewellery isn’t in short supply. This season, an extravagant back-to-nature mise en scène features various unconventional twists; a welcome alternative to our long-established floral infatuation. Motifs vary from desert flowers and feathered crops to autumn leaves and unruly branches. Nishith Shah, CEO of luxury jewellery house La Marquise, says this emerging trend is flourishing. “Exotic jewellery collections whose designs truly differentiate them help consumers personalise their wardrobe to an exclusive taste.” Unsurprisingly, major brands continue to draw deeply from the well of agrarian inspiration, just not in the way one might expect. Chanel’s newest collection is awash with white and yellow gold, taking inspiration from wheat, or ‘les blés’ in French. A universal symbol for prosperity, the harvest harks back to Gabrielle Chanel’s peasant roots, as well as her birthday on August 19th. Octagonal fancy yellow diamonds, shimmering sapphires, peridots and otherworldly aquamarines celebrate every stage of a wheat’s life-cycle, from tender young stalks to a sun-kissed crop. Piaget similarly incorporates sunlight into their latest beguiling collection, which features masses of rose gold and palm tree detailing. According to Shah, nature is omnipresent in jewellery design because its influence is “inescapable”. Therefore, it’s no surprise that Les Folies by De Grisogono boasts mesmeric branches and leaves, arranged in artful clusters and crafted out of sizable diamonds. “Flexible skinny cuff bangles, stackable bangles and rings, as well as jacket earrings will be part of the autumn/winter trend,” reveals Shah, in addition to “metal-rose and yellow gold”. The Cactus de Cartier collection certainly has plenty, and celebrates desert flowers, specifically the cactus. Think mystic chrysoprase, carnelians and lapis. Geometric and sensuous sculptural shapes are both spiky and soft, decorated with bold emeralds set in warm yellow gold that enchantingly captures the flirtatious heat of the desert. This new gem-fuelled obsession will certainly add a statement piece to your jewellery box, as well as an eye-catching embellishment to your daily look.

Image credits clockwise: Cactus de Cartier bracelet in yellow gold with lapis lazuli, CARTIER | Brins de Printemps earrings, CHANEL Fine Jewellery | Épi Solaire ring, CHANEL Fine Jewellery | Épi d’Été ring, CHANEL Fine Jewellery

Images credits clockwise: Cactus de Cartier earrings with emeralds and carnelians worn with the Cactus de Cartier ring, CARTIER | Cactus de Cartier ring in yellow gold and with lapis lazuli | Moisson dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Or brooch, CHANEL Fine Jewellery | Cactus de Cartier bracelet with chrysoprases, emeralds and carnelians, CARTIER | FĂŞte des Moissons bracelet, CHANEL Fine Jewellery | Cactus de Cartier rings set with 6 brilliant-cut diamonds, CARTIER

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Ha i r a nd B ea u t y Tr e nds

Hair Beauty AW16

Sacai

250

Plum Perfection

Cross over to the dark side with a sumptuous plum lip. Whether in a luscious high-shine finish or a vivid matte texture this is the shade to try this autumn.

1. Max Mara | 2. Bottega Veneta | 3. Rodarte | 4. Louis Vuitton

Blurred Lines

The traditional smoky eye has undergone an artistic makeover. Colour outside the lines with messy smudges of dark shadow and liner and pair with a nude lip for maximum impact.

1. Cividini | 2. Dries Van Noten | 3. Aigner | 4. Chanel

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1. Stella McCartney | 2. Opening Ceremony | 3. Blumarine | 4. Gucci

The New Wave 20s style waves add old world glamour to any look. For full-on drama, opt for sculpted, well-defined waves or go soft and natural for a modern take.

1. Esteban Cortazar | 2. Tory Burch | 3. Loewe | 4. Christian Dior

A Lower Level Low buns are the up-do of the season â&#x20AC;&#x201C; keep sleek and smooth for instant sophistication or tie a messy knot at the nape of the neck for undone elegance.

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Silver Linings

Light dustings of powdery white shadow and shimmering silver glitter bring a frosty and futuristic edge to winter make up.

1. Opening Ceremony | 2. Pascal Millet | 3. Giambattista Valli | 4. Alexis Mabille

Slick Back

Wet-look comb backs make a strong statement. To pull off this look, ensure hair has enough volume by using a brush to pull the roots straight up while blow drying.

1. Nina Ricci | 2. Miu Miu | 3. Yang Li | 4. Giambattista Valli

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1. Peter Pilotto | 2. Etro | 3. Sonia Rykiel | 4. Preen

Undone Elegance Pack away straighteners, curling tongs and hair products and return to your roots with untamed, au naturel hair â&#x20AC;&#x201C; ideal for a woman on the go.

1. Christian Dior | 2. Carven | 3. Jason Wu | 4. Eudon Choi

Starry Eyed Spidery mascara was the seasonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most striking beauty trend. To recreate, skip roots and lightly stroke the wand across lash tips until they group together.

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M OJEH B ea u ty

A first worldwide, prized flowers were bathed in gas via CO2 Extraction, a process that reveals their pure fragrance without heat.

A Gendered

As Louis Vuitton launches its latest female-focused fragrance, we examine the gender codes of perfume.

Words by Laura Beaney

Images courtesy of Louis Vuitton

Revelation

Left: A flight back to 1920s femininity, the monogrammed fragrance case mirrors the vanity cases of elegant female travellers. Below: Joining the masculine worlds of leather and feminine scent, from the creation of the Maison’s very first trunks in 1854 the padded cases were designed to hold the most fragile of perfume bottles.

In the Thirties, Freud observed that when you meet a human being, the first distinction you make is ‘male or female’? And, for decades, this notion has been reinforced in everything, from the idea of associating the colour blue with boys and pink with girls, to clothing and fragrance. Yet, as rigid as Freud’s assumption might seem, the concept of binary gender has been contested by both fashion and fragrance, with trends towards androgyny, neutrality and unisex. And now, LVMH has added a surprising twist to this tale, with its Les Parfumes Louis Vuitton, a long-awaited collection of seven perfumes that elevate the notion of femininity once more. In 1994, Calvin Klein revoked the opulent aroma of the Eighties and made a splash with the cleverly marketed CK One campaign, photographed by Steven Meisel, to front the scent aimed at both men and women. And today, the conversation surrounding gendered fragrance remains fresh.With Jo Malone, there is a denial of difference – their colognes like the Lime Basil and Mandarin and Pomegranate Noir can be worn by both sexes, designed to be layered so that a personalised scent is produced. Recalling their iconic deviation into masculinity with Le Smoking during the Sixties, Yves Saint Laurent recently launched five unisex fragrances that infuse notes of rich black pepper and smoked patchouli, colliding with delicate Lily of the Valley – appropriately, the collection is named Tuxedo. It would be safe to assume that Louis Vuitton’s long-

like May roses and jasmine from Grasse. But, aside

awaited perfume might follow suit, especially in the

from the fresh flowers harvested in a unique way

wake of their SS’16 campaign featuring Jaden Smith

(through CO2 extraction), one of the most alluring

in a gender fluid ensemble. But interestingly, they have

perfumes from the collection, Dans La Peau, features a

done quite the opposite, with an all-female led launch.

traditionally masculine ingredient that first found favour

And, to formulate their first fragrance in 70 years,

among females during the period of emancipation in

they have called upon the revered nose of Jacques

the Twenties – leather. And, not just any leather – the

Cavallier-Belletrud – the master perfumer is the creator

formulation infuses the material found in Louis Vuitton’s

of olfactory success stories from Issey Miyake’s iconic

own handbag workshops with apricot and sambac

L’Eau d’ Issey to Giorgio Armani’s Acqua di Gio. “I

jasmine from China. Of course, drawing crude lines of

believe strongly in femininity, although not the kind

distinction between genders feels outdated, but this

that is relegated to the usual clichés,” says Cavallier-

composition celebrates femininity in the empowered

Belletrud on his divination from the industry trend

sense, inspiring confidence.

towards gender neutrality. “I tested all my creations

Whilst the future of fragrance is still not decided

on my wife and eldest daughter.”

and the boundaries between what constitutes

In this period of cultural anxiety towards gender divides,

‘masculine’ or ‘feminine’ in fragrance are ever-

the collection is decidedly feminine, reinforcing the

changing, even Cavallier-Belletrud has to admit, “One

ideal of scent on a woman’s skin with raw materials

can always consider that smells are genderless.”

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M O J EH W oma n

Beauty Moments with

Jennifer Aniston

Sonia Haria / The Telegraph / The Interview People

From teenage mullets and a simple diet to why her most famous haircut was actually a big nuisance, the Hollywood actress shares her beauty secrets and hair traumas.

Feeling good comes from within. Loving who you are and being

for that style. I came out with a mullet – my first real hair trauma.

kind to yourself are the keys to confidence. And, meditation

The 1980s was the worst decade ever for hair. After that, I

is helpful. One of the plus points about turning 40 is that

never had haircuts. I said to myself, “You’ve got to stop and

you begin to realise that you worry too much about things

just let it grow out.” I became the “normal” long-hair girl.

that don’t matter. People love you because of who you are, not what you wear or what you look like. I am who I am,

‘The Rachel’ was a pain in the butt

and I’m proud of all of it.

When I first met Chris McMillan, my hairstylist, at his salon in

As a teenager, I didn’t pay much attention to the way I looked.

LA, he sat me down and gave me a fantastic haircut. About a

My mother [Nancy Dow] was such a beauty, and my best

month later, he gave me what became known through Friends

friend in high school, Monique, had long blonde hair, big

as The Rachel. I had to see him every six weeks to keep this

blue eyes and was tall and skinny. I just remember being

darn thing up, though, because it was a “hairdo”. It was a

not that. In my teens, I would dye my hair crazy colours

pain in the butt, to be honest, one of the hardest hairstyles to

like boysenberry. I cut it really short and for a while, kept it

maintain, unless Chris did it. I’ve got very thick, full hair, so it

shaved at the sides and long on top.

would take on a shape of its own that I didn’t always want. I

I thought that my mother was overly concerned with looks –

don’t think I looked very good with it.

which is probably why I ended up shaving my head and doing

Hairstyles require too much work. The blow-drier, the hairbrush

some stupid things as a kid, as an act of rebellion. But, one

and I weren’t meant for each other. I look back on Farah

of the great things she taught me from a young age was to

Fawcett’s legendary [1970s] hairdo and think that was

moisturise, using face and eye creams. I’ve always done that.

beautiful. But The Rachel? Ugh, not so much.

Straight Hair, PHILIP KINGSLEY @net-a-porter.com

Also, my father [John] gifted me with extremely good genes. I credit the Greek in my blood. He still has that twinkle in his

I’ve learnt to take care of my hair

eye and he has amazing skin.

In my twenties, I used to cut my own split ends. I kept a pair of eyebrow scissors in my car, and whenever I was stuck

Getting a mullet as a teenager

in traffic or at lights, I would get them out and start cutting.

I chuckle when I hear people say I have great hair, because

When Chris started doing my hair, he said, “No wonder your

when I was a kid, it was horrible. It was big and frizzy, thick

hair is a pile of Brillo, it’s horrible.” I don’t do that anymore.

and unmanageable – down to my butt with bangs. I remember

Now, I have a habit of twirling my hair. Long hair is more me.

going to Vidal Sassoon when I was about 13. I took a picture of

My mantra is “keep it simple”.

the actress Valerie Bertinelli with me and asked the hairdresser

I feel an up-do looks more matronly on me, so I prefer loose,

Omega 9 Hair Mask, RAHUA

understated hair, even on the red carpet. In fact, if I’m wearing a fancy formal dress, I like to go against what’s going on with the outfit. I think, let’s look as though I’ve just got out of bed. That’s so much more interesting.

My beauty secrets? It’s the simple things: Getting a full night’s sleep, eating right, drinking a lot of water. I drink so much water, it’s painful. I always have and I think that helps. Those are the basics – if you’re not doing those things, there is not a miracle product that will help.

Anti-Frizz Formula 57, PHILIP B @net-a-porter.com

Self-confidence has a lot to do with beauty. If I don’t exercise, it affects my mood. I do a lot of yoga, and some days I will go for a hike. I also do interval training, circuit training, weight training and running. Even if I’m really busy, I do at least something for 20 minutes to half an hour every day. It’s good to keep your body surprised. I like to get my blood pumping. If you do that and follow a healthy diet, you’ll be pretty good.

A simple diet My diet is simple. I have egg whites, half a grapefruit and a little cup of coffee for breakfast. Then I drink green tea throughout the day. Lunch is usually vegetables with protein of some kind. I indulge at weekends – that means a bowl of pasta with cheese, garlic and olive oil, and a touch of cream. Or, I will have Mexican food or pizza. I love Italian food and a glass of wine. A little red wine is good for you.

Root Lift Spray Gel, KERASTRAIGHT @rapidgeneraltrading.com

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b e a u ty f o c u s

Revitalised

Rouge Since its launch in 1953, Rouge Dior lipstick has established itself as a cult classic. The house’s creative and image director of makeup, Peter Philips, talks to MOJEH about the latest shades for 2016, while sharing his expert tips for mastering a statement lip.

Ezra Petronio for Christian Dior Parfums, Makeup by Peter Philips | Peter used Rouge Dior - 789 Superstitious Matte to create this look.

Do you think that lipstick is an ego booster, a trick

love for painting and his art gallery in the 1930s.

that can increase a woman’s confidence?

In 1947, Christian started designing his own collections

Yes. I’m always fascinated by how lipstick boosts self-

and found true creative expression through the use

confidence and helps women to stand out – it’s like

of colour. Christian launched his brand during a dark

wearing high heels or a super feminine dress. Lipstick

period in time and, he wanted to bring colour, light and

has an impact on everything you do – how you talk,

femininity to the world – so, his couture shows were full

eat and drink. Even the gesture of touching up your

of firework displays, and the dresses and makeup were

lipstick is powerful and sensual; it’s a head turner for

bursting with colour. From 1949 onwards, he began

both men and women.

marketing the first Dior lipstick in his Colifichets boutique on Avenue Montaigne – ever since, the House of Dior

Some women think that pigmented lipstick with

has kept up that desire to nurture colour, like a garden.

heavy coverage is not for them. What would you your advice to them be?

Is it important to use a lip-liner with lipstick?

I would tell them to just try it. That’s what’s so great

Well, it depends. For classic, perfectly defined lips,

about makeup – you can try it out, remove it, and start

I use lip-liner to correct the shape of the lips and fill

over. The only risk is falling in love with a look. I would

in the middle as a base before applying lipstick. But,

also tell them that beautiful lips aren’t just about full

you can easily go for a more relaxed look by quickly

lips – it’s a question of attitude.

applying lipstick, blotting the lips with a tissue, and lightly erasing the contours with a cotton bud. Do

The 2016 Rouge Dior collection includes a Matte

that and you’ll have an imperfect effect that’s both

Finish lipstick for the first time, as well as four

pretty and sexy.

Extreme Matte shades. However, matte lipsticks are reputedly difficult to wear, would you agree?

People often say you have to choose between

As soon as I started work on this colour palette, I

a statement eye or lip. Do you abide by this rule

knew I wanted an intense, matte red. I’m super happy

when creating your beauty looks?

we created 10 shades. Once you try the matte finish,

It’s been a general rule for a long time, but women

you’re hooked... we have state-of-the-art colours, but

today don’t follow any rules about makeup. They

we’re also experts in formulation. These 10 lipsticks

do whatever they want in any combination. It all

have an ultra-comfortable formula – the result is both

depends on how they feel, their sense of style, and

matte and luminous.

what they’re looking for.

You often say that colour is more than a statement

What do you think is the best way to choose the

at Dior – it’s a garden that blooms season upon

ideal shade?

season. Talk us through how Dior’s garden of colour

The best and most fun way to choose your lipstick is to

has bloomed over time.

take your time trying out different colours and textures.

Colour was everything for Christian Dior. It began during

What I advise is to have a few ‘classic’ lipsticks and

his childhood with his mother’s passion for gardens

then a few less conventional shades that will satisfy

and seasonal flowers, and then developed into his

the desire to dare.

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M O J EH D is c o v ery

Cheval Blancâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Randheli boasts stateof-the-art design, in which modern yet authentic villas jut out from the jungle and float gracefully above the lagoon. Conceived by French architect Jean-Michel Gathy, tranquillity is key across the islands.

O l d H au n t s , N e w Ta l e s With its signature service and unrivalled approach to Maldivian breaks, Randheli by Cheval Blanc promises a new experience for even the most world-weary traveller.

The still beauty of Randheli is so all encompassing that the moment you set eyes on the island, the stresses and strains of the daily grind quickly drift out to sea. Standing aboard a small dhoni, which sails us gently over the azure ocean that separates the resort’s four islands, the image of the floating landmasses - majestic and motionless with their golden sands and shamrock green lavish palms - lures us in from afar. This is seclusion like no other. While it might be true that the Maldives isn’t a place of new or unexpected discovery for returning guests – the picture perfect paradise remains largely untouched from island to island, and so, in general, once you’ve explored one, you’ve acquired a good idea of its charm - French brand Cheval Blanc has managed to curate an entirely new chapter for even the most experienced visitor. So how? Aside from its state-of-the-art design conceived by architect Jean-Michel Gathy - modern yet authentic villas jut out from the jungle and float gracefully above the lagoon - the secret lies in the resort’s unwavering pursuit of exceptional and bespoke service. From sunrise dolphin watching and sunset fishing down to the most minute of culinary preferences, the journey to Randheli begins days before the flight takes off when a dedicated Cheval Blanc alchemist reaches out for partialities. Pleasures of staying here include Spa Island, an entire landmass dedicated to the Guerlain treatments, meditation and yoga; Maakhurandhoo Island, home to Australian Open-standard tennis courts; and private dinning at esteemed French restaurant Le 1947. Whether you choose to jump in at the deep end or remain glued to the water’s edge during your stay, the resort’s seclusion and the personal approach of Randheli’s team ensures you feel like the island’s sole dwellers. This becomes especially true for guests inhabiting the Owner’s Villa, set back on its private 100-acre island a short boat journey away from the main resort. Like everything else at Randheli, the four-bedroom villa is designed to promote calmness and tranquillity. Tiny lights dust the walls of the dinning area, delicate vegetation and perfectly preened flora frame the garden and pool area, and beds lie underneath high ceilings and face the open water. In similar pursuit, artwork across Randheli has been picked for its ode to equanimity, from Vincent Beaurin’s Couronne (46 unique bright marble and quartz sand spots), to his Arch (a welcome sculpture that emerges from the water allowing the tide to lap against it gently). Artists and architects aside, what arises throughout our stay as the island’s prevailing talent, is its instinctively seamless service. A dedicated majordome panders to any needs almost undetectably, while the alchemists’ personalised itinerary encourages you to make the very most of your stay. Similarly, culinary talents are faultless, especially considering the island’s relative inaccessibility. Whether enjoying the live cooking theatre at Japanese restaurant Diptyque, or experiencing a night-time view of the open sea over a Mediterranean speciality at Deelani’s, attention is paid to every last detail. Our tip: consider the time you may think you need at Randheli, and double it. From brisk bike rides through its colourful jungle and boot camp sessions on a near-deserted island, to hours spent soaking up the breath-taking views from the secluded Owner’s Villa by day or night, this is a Maldivian experience that you’ve yet to discover.

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M O J EH H e a lth

Returning to Our Roots Uncovering the latest food movement among teens across the globe, what can we learn from the generation that’s choosing to forgo meat and dairy in favour of a vegan lifestyle?

In the midst of the Raf Simons and

areas of consciousness, from fashion

service. When the latter embarked

Vetements boutiques in downtown

to fitness. In 2014, when Athleisure

on a 22-day vegan cleanse citing

Moscow, the KM20 vegan eatery

first came to light, a study conducted

spiritual and mental health benefits

boasts ‘the widest range of nut mylks’

by Piper Jaffray named yoga pants –

as her wellness goals there was,

in town. Part of the new wave of

from Lululemon in particular – as the

naturally, an increase in conversation

venues catering to young conscious

top performing clothing trend amongst

surrounding this type of diet. “I have

consumers that shun the meat-and-

American teens.

become more and more vegan, but

cheese-heavy ways of the Soviet, the

But, why has veganism, in particular,

occasionally, I eat seafood, which

café is the perfect vantage point from

gained so much traction amongst

makes me ‘seagan’,” says Rowe,

which to observe the proliferation of

youth? Veganism, of course, is a very

who, like the singer, takes a more

veganism amongst youth worldwide.

specific way of eating that deplores

fluid approach to her food. And,

From Russia’s flourishing wellness

meat, seafood and dairy, including

the youth appeal of PETA advocate

scene to the Middle East, another

eggs, attracting mixed reactions

Miley Cyrus is also undeniable – the

region known for its meaty cuisine,

towards its supposed health benefits

singer, who adheres to all aspects of

gastronauts are identifying changes in

and shortfalls. In the past, sceptics

the vegan lifestyle, uses social media

the eating habits of local teenagers. “I

and concerned elders may have

to bring awareness of her vegan

have noticed that Omnia has a much

focused especially upon the lack of

views to the mainstream. “Please

bigger following from Generation Z,”

nutrition associated with veganism

consider vegan options because we,

says celebrity Chef Silvena Rowe.

and teenage girls, who require high

as humans, have resources”– one of

“The new generation is much more

levels of B vitamins, calcium and iron

the many pro-vegan captions shared

aware of the benefits of healthy

to develop. However, recent years

on Cyrus’s Instagram account.

eating, which is seen as something

have seen renowned athletes like Mike

“I really love how Miley stands up for

that is very cool to do.” And, based

Tyson and the Venus sisters disprove

hard causes and her actions follow

on her findings, Rowe has adjusted

this notion. They are among the many

her words and media posts,” says

her business strategy. Accordingly,

professionals that credit their vegan-

Lyz Olko, a fashion designer who

she is currently in the process of

based diet with an increased intake

uses dead-stock denim and army

converting her flagship restaurant,

of nutrients and optimal performance.

surplus for her sustainable designs.

Omnia Gourmet, into Dubai’s first

They are also an indicator of

The designer counts Cyrus, Kylie

entirely vegan space. A smart move,

veganism’s wider acceptance as a

Jenner and Gwen Stefani among her

perhaps, as the largest ever study into

healthy lifestyle.

celebrity clientele and believes that

the vegan community by Ipsos MORI

Undeniably, veganism has heavily

their enviable sense of style helps to

revealed that there has been a 360

revamped its image over the last few

communicate their ethical stance to

per cent increase in veganism across

years. Previously linked to zealots,

a younger audience.

the UK since 2006, a lifestyle change

today A Listleaders like Paul McCartney

On the whole, Gen Z is regarded as

that is largely driven by teenagers.

champion #MeatFreeMondays, whilst

a healthier group than their parents,

Tellingly, this shift towards a healthier

Beyonce carves out a new niche

with smoking and drinking rates at

lifestyle is also spilling over into other

with her plant-based meal delivery

an all-time low; they are also the first

New Lands, photographed by Pieter Henket, MOJEH Issue 24

Words by Laura Beaney

268 father about his 1960s adoption

their entire lives. As digital natives,

of vegetarianism as a teenager,

teens are just as likely to take food

he pinpoints a school trip to the

recommendations from a blog or

slaughterhouse as his motivation.

social media as they are from word-

Typically, teen trends are driven by

of-mouth. And, Rowe credits her own

a quest for ‘the next big thing’, with

success to social media; her Snapchat

their tastes populating spaces that

account was recently listed among

their parents do not understand. At the

the 30 most influential in the Middle

time, his decision was marginalised

East. Teens make up the majority of

by his family and labeled an awkward

her demographic and they use the

teenage phase. And, during the

platform to connect with her to discuss

Sixties, vegetarians were few and

food-related issues like never before.

far between. Today, however, a

“They are demanding and they take

transition like my father’s is more

a real interest in our ingredients and

commonplace, made easier by the

sources,” says the chef.

wealth of literature readily accessible

Perhaps veganism’s teen pull is a

at a click. From research highlighting

vocabulary and open up our eyes to the diversity of tastes

backlash against previous trends

the overwhelming physical, ethical and

and culinary options available within the raw vegan diet.

for meat-heavy paleoism, or a

environmental benefits of veganism

savvy strategy to get more ‘likes’

to community support found on

with selfies replaced by ‘healthies’.

social platforms, the information has

Indeed, veganism runs the risk of

been available since the start of the

being labeled a food fad, but those

Internet, and today’s teens facilitate its

within the industry believe it will have

spread. “I learnt a lot from my friend

a lasting impact. “We think veganism

Theo’s ‘gram’,” says Olko, who uses

is a lifestyle that’s here to stay,” says

Instagram for recipe inspiration, and

Juliet Kaufman, of bestselling vegan

converted from vegetarianism to

cookbook series, Thug Kitchen. “We

veganism at the age of 15. “I have a

believe younger people are more

few vegan friends and am very happy

concerned about their food and

to see many people are asking me

where it comes from…with all the