ISSUE 43 by MOJEH

Fierce, Fresh and Freethinking

N Â° 43 DEC / JAN

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18 Chairman SHAHAB IZADPANAH

EDITORIAL

PUBLISHING

Editor in Chief MOJEH IZADPANAH

Publishing Director RADHIKA NATU

Associate Editor SHERI IZADPANAH

Senior Publishing Executive DESIREE LABANDA-GAVERIA

Managing Editor KELLY BALDWIN

Junior Publishing Assistant kisada hurin

Senior Writer Mary KeEnan

Advertising Manager Sian Hayes

Fashion Writer Laura Beaney

Paris Representative GHISLAIN DE CASTELBAJAC

Lifestyle Writer Annie Darling

Advertising Inquiries Tel: +971 4 553 90 49 Email: advertising@mojeh.com

Senior Editorial Assistant Sophie pasztor

Subscription Tel: +971 4 553 90 49 Email: subs@mojeh.com

Guest Fashion Stylists Joana Dacheville Jean-Charline Tomlinson Coline Peyrot

Online Division ALI ROMAN Afreen Khwaja

MOJEH Men Group Peter Iantorno Dmitri Ruwan

LOUIS FOURTEEN FOR MOJEH

ART

Concierge Service Management daisy marchant

Producer LOUIS AGENCY

Corporate Manager JUBRAN HAMATI

Art Director AMIRREZA AMIRASLANI

Published under HS Media Group FZ LLC Registered at Dubai Design District Building No. 8, Offices 212 P.O.Box 502333, Dubai, UAE.

Deputy Art Director Richard Lee Graphic Designer Balaji Mahendran Contributing Photographers Liv Friis-Larsen Anthony Arquier Vivienne Balla Pelle Lannefors

Cover photographed by Anthony Arquier, model wears coat by Versace.

WWW.MOJEH.COM Louis Fourteen for MOJEH Follow us on Twitter @MOJEH_Magazine MOJEH Swiss Representative Office: Rue de Rive 4, 1204 Geneva, Switzerland Average qualified circulation (January-June 2015): 13,306 copies. For the UAE printed by Emirates Printing Press LLC. Distribution- UAE: Al Nisr Distribution LLC. Qatar: Dar Al Sharq. Bahrain: Jashanmal & Sons BSC (C). Oman: United Media Services LLC. Lebanon: Messageries Du Moyen-Orient The publishers regret that they cannot accept liability for error or omissions contained in this publication, however caused. The opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessary those of the publishers. Readers are advised to seek specialist advice before acting on information contained in this publication which is provided for general use and may not be appropriate for the readers particular circumstances. The ownership of trademark is acknowledged, therefore reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. All credits are subjects to change. Copyright HS MEDIA GROUP FZ LLC 2011

M o j eh C o ntent s

Mojeh Style 58. The Prince of Print As Pucci receives a new lease of life under the eye of MSGM’s Massimo Giorgetti, we share the voice of the man behind the power print.

70. Seasonal Style Loaded leathers, feather-like furs and a taste of the Orient: MOJEH marks out the must-wear pieces.

74. The Ones To Watch A new year signals a new era in design. Here, we share our edit of the labels leading us forth for 2017.

82. Leather, Leopard and Lamé Packing a pulse-racing punch into Saint Laurent’s new tone, MOJEH dissects the decadence of Anthony Vaccarello’s first collection.

MOJEH Women 44. Championing Confidence Balancing success with style, we learn from the empowered habits of four of the region’s most dynamic female forces.

77. Five Firsts We consider the sizeable achievements of the five Middle Eastern women that reached new heights during 2016.

Talking Points

48. Feel Like A Fraud? Are women talking themselves out of their own success story? MOJEH investigates the impact of Imposter Syndrome.

156. Inflated Notions A hot topic across health and beauty, we ask the experts – is our body’s internal fight a cause for concern?

Photoshoots 86. Last Dance Let tattered ruffles and billowing sleeves play out the siren call of old Havana. Pinks, blues, yellows and greens put forward the colours that sweep the city.

98. Fierce, Fresh and Freethinking The spirit of the â&#x20AC;&#x2122;70s is brought to the moment with vintage-inspired luxe leathers and pussy bow collars, juxtaposed with sharp cuts.

114. Natural Wonders Snake-green emeralds and inflamed rubies emit the energies of the raw earth.

132. Glistening Hope Woven gold and silver mimic the twists and turns of fabric while captivating blues recall the tone of Persia.

Jewellery & Watches 140. Winter White Like the dance of a snowflake, the diamond commands and mesmerises. Van Cleef & Arpels celebrates the entrancing white diamond with pristinely-sparkling pieces.

148. Storied Stones Few objects are shrouded in as much mystery as our precious stones; here, we unveil the lore of our most treasured pieces.

Mojeh Culture

162. Me, Myself and I MOJEH discovers that solo is the only way to go when it comes to world exploration.

168. Untold Stories The meaning of migration is brought to fresh light as we uncover the provocative work of Iranian artist, Farzad Kohan.

EXPLORE NEW HORIZONS

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The Other Conversation Scighera sofa designed by Piero Lissoni at Atelier Rosa by Hermann Rosa, Germany - cassina.com

E d i t o r ’s L ette r

Spirited Starts Freethinking. We debated for a while whether or not this was the correct cover word to follow ‘Fierce’ and ‘Fresh’ on our New Year’s issue, but in seeing it in all its glory standing tall next to our Versacewearing cover model, I can’t believe we even questioned it. The word can relate to various concepts and meanings: expressing novel thought; encouraging independence; breaking through that glass ceiling; or, in its immediacy and simplicity, perhaps just breaking free and doing something you never thought you would? That may refer to a simple style change-up that gives you a new lease of confidence for 2017, a hair cut that lightens the load making you feel liberated, or a life-changing moment such as packing your bags, picking up your passport and leaving everyone at the gate as you depart on a trip where you are your only companion – but whatever it is, embrace it wholeheartedly and never underestimate the power of following through with your thoughts. They may just take you some place wonderful. Our photoshoots this issue tell tales of storied women who have broken the mould, from our cover story in which traditional notions of luxury dressing are turned on their head, to our leading lady in Last Dance, who explores unfamiliar cultures, and Natural Wonders, where we unearth beauties from deep below the earth’s surface. Similarly, the women featured, from humanitarian Zainab Kufaishi and art gallery owner Asmaa Al-Shabibi, to designer Ayah Tabari, talk to us about fresh starts and their take homes from this year. Whatever attitude you choose to adopt for 2017, make it a spirited one and believe that the world really can be your oyster.

Follow me on Twitter and Instagram @Mojeh_I and write to me at editor@mojeh.com

Mojeh Izadpanah Editor in Chief

Photographed by Pelle Lannefors

E d i t o r â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s SN A P SHOT s

Bright Start

3&4

Start the new year with a positive outlook and vivid brights. Navigate towards colour-saturated pieces, such as Pasquale Bruni’s violet ring, and small notes of cerulean, like those found in Sutra’s earrings. Luxe accompaniments in gilded gold will ensure the trend’s sophistication and provoke a penchant for extravagance. 1. EMILIO PUCCI | 2. VALENTINO | 3. ESTÉE LAUDER | 4. BURBERRY | 5. DIOR | 6. PASQUALE BRUNI | 7. SUTRA | 8. CHLOÉ

S t yl e N ote

While florals have been in full bloom for as long as we can remember, this season, designers reimagine the motif in vibrant shades. Embrace your inner romantic with Gucciâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Sylvie embroidered leather top handle bag, ideal for days spent in the sun.

Left to right: Shoe, SOPHIA WEBSTER at Harvey Nichols-Dubai | bag, GUCCI | necklace, CHANEL

Photographed by Rhys Simpson-Hopkins, styled by Sophie Pasztor

Petal Pusher

B e a u ty N ote

Radiance

Eliminate dead skin build-up and accelerate cellular renewal with the convenience of an at-home peel. Look to brands like La Prairie or Elemis to gently polish and treat the face with skin-loving ingredients.

Clockwise from the top: Papaya Enzyme Peel, ELEMIS | Yam & Pumpkin Enzyme Peel, Ă&#x2030;MINENCE | Pure Peel Exfoliating Face Mask, BAKEL at Harvey Nichols-Dubai | Cellular 3-Minute Peel, LA PRAIRIE

Photographed by Rhys Simpson-Hopkins, styled by Sophie Pasztor

Revealed

Home at last.

AGENT FOR GCC COUNTRIES Pia Colzani Tel. +39 335 8394824 pia.flexform@gmail.com

GROUNDPIECE SECTIONAL SOFA

design by Antonio Citterio

FLEXFORM www.flexform.it

Photographed by Rhys Simpson-Hopkins, styled by Sophie Pasztor

38 S t yl e N ote

Down To

Earth Explore the city in style with a safari-inspired palette of olive green, beige, ochre and camel. Exotic skins and animal motifs offer a direct link, while explorer satchels and buckled sandals are more subdued. Left to right: Shoe, JIMMY CHOO | clutch, BOTTEGA VENETA | bag, CHANEL | belt, GUCCI | bag, MARNI

F A SHION IN F O C US

PATRICIA MANFIELD

Sunshine Chaser Channel vibrant hues and lively prints as we enter cooler climates. Opt for playful styles such as Charlotte Olympia’s animated heels, and preserve sophistication by donning Cindy Chao’s Four Seasons Collection earrings. 1. CHARLOTTE OLYMPIA | 2. ALEXANDER MCQUEEN | 3. MATICEVSKI | 4. FENDI | 5. DOLCE&GABBANA | 6. PASQUALE BRUNI | 7. CHLOÉ | 8. CINDY CHAO

Compiled by Sophie Pasztor

8 1

OLIVIA PALERMO

â&#x20AC;&#x2122;70s Remix

In an ode to the Seventies,

6 5

2 8 AIMEE SONG

Tough Love From combat boots and studded belts to athletic striped jumpers and drawstring trousers, this season, designers bring punk to athleisure. Complementary

6 5

The Update

Doina Ciobanu

2 8

Break through sartorial confines by electing pieces that embrace a contemporary twist. Look towards Gucci’s space-age cowboy boots and Emporio Armani’s futuristic bag for restructured style.

6 5

M OJEH w o m en

Championing Confidence As La Perla’s latest loungewear collection calls to our inner confidence, we discover the empowered habits of the four women who prove that strength and femininity do not have to be mutually exclusive. Interview By Laura Beaney

Ayah Tabari Founder and Designer at Mochi Vacation Destination: I love South Africa and the nature that it encompasses; I am in awe of watching wildlife and seeing how they fend for themselves in the wild | Key To Relaxation: On the beach with my family – they are my little bit of calm | Must-Read: The Art of Happiness by Dalai Lama is a must-read! | Sleep Early Or Stay Out Late: Love to sleep early, but love sleep in general! | GoTo Outfit: Levis, a comfy top and a good pair of shoes; loving my Chanel slingbacks at the moment as they add chic to even the simplest of outfits | I Feel The Most Empowered When: I’m giving back to the communities I work with and seeing how it has changed their lives, not only by adding monetary value but also to their quality of life. It’s inspiring | Must-Take Supplement: Spirulina | Skincare Saviour: Crème De La Mer Moisturiser | Item For Fall/Winter: My Mochi embroidered coat | Best Way To Start The Day: I meditate, put on some good music and I’m good to go | La Perla Makes Me Feel: The new collection makes me feel good. I think it empowers women in a stylish but conservative way | La Perla Gives Me Confidence Because: Of its fit and ambience as a brand. I also think that knowing Kendall Jenner is the new face Advice: Follow your heart, it’s almost always right | Lesson Of 2016: Balance. There are so many things in life we are expected to do and so many pressures that surround us. Learn to balance and you will lead a much happier life

Ayah Tabari wears La Perla Shape Allure body

Images courtesy of La Perla.

instantly makes you feel good when wearing it | The Best

Dalia Dogmoch wears La Perla Leisuring trouser, Cristallo Nero body and Giuseppe Zanotti shoes

Dalia Dogmoch Soubra Food author, presenter and entrepreneur Dining Destination: La Petite Maison in DIFC and Tomo at Raffles Dubai for casual dining; Mannaland Korean Restaurant in Satwa | Seek Inspiration: The Fish Market | Most Treasured Possession: An olive tree from my husband | Sleep early Or Stay Out Late? Both! Early during the week and late on the weekend | Dish To Cook: Savoury and sweet crêpes | Play On Repeat: Anything by Lenny Kravitz | Cheat Meal: I cheat all the time. These days, pregnancy cravings are stirring towards Mexican food | Must-Read: If Only It Were True by Marc Levy | Lipstick Shade: MAC’s Ruby Woo | Greatest Achievement Of 2016: My YouTube Channel: Dalia’s Kitchen | I Feel The Most Empowered When: My loved ones are around me | The Best Advice: Do not focus on too many things at once | La Perla Gives Me Confidence Because: It’s Photographed by Francesco Scotti and styled by Sofia Guellaty

comfortable, feminine and beautiful at the same time | Go-To La Perla Piece: Love their silk pyjamas. Comfy and beautiful | Life Lesson: Always trust your gut feeling

Nathalie Trad wears La Perla Maison Atelier jumpsuit, and Giuseppe Zanotti shoes

Nathalie Trad Founder and designer at Nathalie Trad Dining Destination: Teatro in the Rotana Towers is my all-time favourite restaurant here | Seek Inspiration: The only place I will go is to this flower shop, a truly inspirational place where nature meets culture: Art & Flower. When I am there, it feels as though I have travelled to another world | The Best Way To Relax: When I need some pampering, I head to the Oriental Hammam at the One&Only Royal Mirage | Ultimate Workout: Physique57 | Must-Read: To name a few, I would say Milan Kundera’s Unbearable Lightness Of Being, Harper Lee’s To Kill A Mockingbird, Ernest Hemingway’s A Moveable Feast, and André Breton’s Nadja | The Best Advice: Be curious | Healthy Snack: Avocado | Signature Scent: Eau des Merveilles by Hermès | Beauty Hack: Touche Éclat by Saint Laurent | La Perla Makes Me Feel: Strong and empowered | La Perla Gives Me Confidence Because: The clean lines, the beautiful fabrics and the way the pieces are cut and fit | I Love This Piece Because: How beautifully and impeccably made it is. I also really love how it makes a woman feel | Bucket List For 2017: Take two months off to travel around South America with my husband

Dana Hourani wears La Perla Atelier Organza trouser, Silk Soul top, Maison Atelier Edition feathered bra and Giuseppe Zanotti shoes

Dana Hourani Founder of D Tales and Digital Influencer The Best Treat In Town: A Salt Burger at Kite Beach | Source Of Unusual Clothing: Online Georgian designers | Take A Break: Beirut with family | Most Treasured Possession: Guitar | Sleep Early Or Stay Out Late: A balance of both | Healthy Snack: Tabbouleh | The Ultimate Workout: Physique 57 | Cheat Meal: McDonald’s | Beauty Hack: Put powder on lashes right before mascara to make them thicker | Beauty Saviour: L’Occitane After Shower Body Oil | Go-To Outfit: White shirt and black pants with sneakers | MustWear La Perla Piece: The Leisuring Underwired Dress – you can wear it at home or dress it up for a night out | La Perla Makes Me Feel: Great in my own skin. Not to mention helps me embrace my femininity through the proper basic essentials without compromising on elegance and effortlessness | La Perla Gives Me Confidence Because: The sensual fabrics embrace femininity while maintaining a look of professionalism and elegance | I Feel Most Empowered When: I feel great in my own skin without having to put in much of an effort. Comfort is key | The Best Advice: Just do you, nobody else can | 2016’s Best Lesson: Simplify everything through your mindset | Bucket List For 2017: Tokyo

Tal k ing P o i nt

Feel Like A

Fraud? Words by Annie Darling

The fear of being exposed, that you don’t deserve success, or aren’t as good as others. This is Imposter Syndrome, and it’s a feeling many women know well.

Kearns, “but many men experience it, too.” He elaborates, “Many women will attribute their success to external factors, including luck and being in the right place at the right time, or people liking them rather than respecting their abilities or efforts.” The syndrome was first identified in 1978 by Pauline Clance and Suzanne Imes, who published a report entitled The Imposter Phenomenon in High Achieving Women, which examined 150 successful women who believed they were neither intelligent nor talented, and had somehow fooled everyone into thinking otherwise. Award-winning novelist Maya Angelou, Academy Award-winning actress Kate Winslet, and comedian Tina Fey have all admitted suffering from Imposter Syndrome. After winning Best Actor for The Accused in 1988, Jodie Foster revealed she thought there had been a mistake and that she’d have to give her Oscar back. UN Women Goodwill Ambassador Emma Watson has expressed similar sentiments, telling an interviewer: “Any moment, someone’s going to find out I’m a total fraud – I can’t possibly live up to what everyone thinks I am.” Lauren Drogos is a postdoctoral fellow at the University of Calgary, Hotchkiss Brain Institute, and her research frequently studies

Imagine you just received a great bit of news

MOJEH. “Imposter Syndrome comes about

women’s mental health. “I hate admitting this,

at work – a promotion. You’re feeling a range

because we are not very good at accepting

but yes,” she concedes, when asked whether

of emotions. It’s probably taken months,

the evidence of our achievements. We tend

she suffers from Imposter Syndrome. “The

maybe even years, to snag this lofty title,

to discount them.” He adds, “In some cases,

number of women in academia decreases

but the day has finally come and you’ve

this might be cultural, or perhaps it was the

as the rank increases, meaning that there

been notified that your hard work has paid

way you learned to behave in early life.”

are fewer women in senior positions. Right

off. Only problem is, you feel undeserving of

People who experience Imposter Syndrome

now, I’m at a critical transition in my career –

your success. 70 per cent of people feel this

often report having feelings of inadequacy.

looking for a faculty position. I have watched

way, according to a study in the International

They also tend to be high achievers who are

many extraordinarily talented women struggle

Journal of Behavioral Science. It’s called

unable to accept their success, regularly

to find a faculty position and this is often the

Imposter Syndrome, and you’re not alone.

attributing their accomplishments to a lucky

source of my struggle. If these other amazing

Hugh Kearns is a renowned public speaker,

break rather than dexterity. These negative

women can’t find a job, why would I?”

educator and researcher who regularly lectures

thoughts regularly amount to more than an

Research has long suggested women

at universities across the world, including

anxious temperament; they can become

undervalue themselves and it’s a phenomenon

Oxford, Cambridge, Harvard, Berkeley and

detrimental to one’s self-esteem and typically

that’s especially apparent in the workplace.

Stanford. “Imposter Syndrome is the feeling

affect women, especially when they’re

The Institute for Fiscal Studies put the gender

that you’re a fraud or imposter, despite there

doing well. “Women tend to report imposter

pay gap for graduates in the 10 years after

being clear evidence that you are not,” he tells

feelings more often than men,” explains

leaving university at around 23 per cent.

The Longest Night, photographed by Norbert Kniat, MOJEH Issue 36

Mariam Al Hashemi, Executive Director at Dual Investments, tells MOJEH, “When I first started [at Dual Investments], I was definitely guilty of undervaluing myself, but with continued experience I am learning my true value and capability day by day.” While the evidence continues to indicate that women are less self-assured than men, girls are achieving more than ever before – they regularly outperform boys in the classroom, and female undergraduates are growing at a faster rate than male university students. Alia Khalifa Al Nabooda, co-founder of VoucherSkout, has always been ambitious. “I think women in the Middle East, particularly in the UAE, have proven what they are capable of accomplishing. You see them today as leaders across various sectors and industries.” Nonetheless, a survey by the Girl Guides Association claimed that 87 per cent of young women felt they were judged on what they looked like, rather than their ability. “Historically, women have always had to work twice as hard to achieve half as much,” reminds Al Hashemi. We have a history of being discriminated against in the workplace, and while overt displays of sexism are fortunately less frequent, subtler and more ingrained cognitive biases remain deeply rooted in our society. For example, “When you think of a scientist, you’re unlikely to think of a woman,” explains Drogos. Women are under-represented in many high-earning, traditionally maledominated roles. The statistics are well known: At the top, especially, women are nearly absent, despite making up half the workforce. “The further away a person is from the image of someone who embodies their profession, the more they’ll struggle with feeling like an imposter, no matter how great their achievements.” Living with unsettling anxiety or a need for perfectionism can be debilitating, and while Imposter Syndrome is more likely to affect women, Al Hashemi reminds MOJEH that men are also susceptible to feelings of self-consciousness. “Whether someone

For those of us who are parents, the opinion of others matters even more. Millennial mothers report feeling overwhelmed and judged, according to a report by Baby Center – more so than baby boomers or generation X. While conventional wisdom tells us to suppress this unforbearing voice, self-recrimination can be difficult to ignore. Perhaps those who suffer from Imposter Syndrome have unrealistically high standards, muses Drogos. “Research has suggested certain traits are more associated with the feeling of Imposter Syndrome, including a high need for achievement, self-monitoring, social anxiety, and depressive symptoms.” If it’s not perfect, it’s a disaster; if we’re not the best, we’re useless. Negative thoughts are natural and inevitable, but there’s a fine line between self-deprecation and selfdestruction. Millennial women are more likely to bottle up these feelings. We project confidence and stoicism when we’re with our friends and family, but behind closed doors we desperately try to ignore painful feelings of self-doubt. “Although I think modesty is important, I believe that humility is more important,” reveals Al Hashemi. “You should also be proud of your achievements, and not feel embarrassed for having accomplished something, no matter what it is.” New research by Ghent University has found that, rather than addressing their insecurities, undervalues themselves isn’t a gender issue,”

outing herself as a phony. She revealed that

those with Imposter Syndrome immerse

insists the business-driven Emirati, “it’s about

the lifestyle she had depicted on social media

themselves in their tasks and pretend to be

their mindset. It’s an issue of self-confidence.

was fictitious and relied upon the financial

self-assured. They avoid extra responsibility,

In a world where social media, as well as

backing of corporate brands.

preferring to remain unsure rather than seek

the media, creates unrealistic expectations

According to research from EY, formerly Ernst

advice and help. To combat the syndrome,

– especially for women – we can often feel

& Young, the number of millennials taking on

it’s important to acknowledge that these

like we don’t measure up.”

leadership roles has surged, yet we continue

uncertainties are all in your own head.

Earlier this year, a study from Pew Research

to feel as though we have something to prove.

Refusing to respond to a negative thought

found that 62 per cent of people say social

Millennials are the ‘Trophy Generation’; we

gives us time to recognise it for what it is: a

media makes them feel inadequate about their

grew up hearing mixed messages from our

thought, not a fact.

life and achievements. That means at any

parents, who alternated between over-praise

Examining negative feelings, softening them,

given time, six out of 10 of your colleagues

and unwarranted criticism – just 39 per cent

and acknowledging them for what they

are experiencing emotions associated

of respondents perceived millennials as

are will better inform our future decisions.

with Imposter Syndrome. Essena O’Neill,

hard workers. According to the American

Take time to reflect on your success – by

a teenage Instagram star with 612,000

Psychological Association, this upbringing

doing so, you’ll know that you’re capable of

followers, deleted her online accounts after

has increased the risk of fraudulent feelings.

handling new responsibilities and challenges.

What does an average day for you entail? I wake up early, around six, and do yoga or go to the gym three to four times a week. Then, I head to the Schiaparelli headquarters at Place Vendôme to do my work. I go to the cinema during the day quite often; I see a lot of movies by myself. What are your plans for 2017?

Five Minutes With

We’re focusing on our next haute couture collection for Schiaparelli, coming up in January. I’m also hoping to concentrate on a new film next year. Out of the many careers you’ve pursued

Farida Khelfa Interview by Mary Keenan

Photographed by Bertrand Rindoff Petroff at Getty

Farida arrives at the Schiaparelli Haute Couture autumn/winter16 show

MOJEH gets to know former model and muse, documentary filmmaker and brand ambassador for the House of Schiaparelli, Farida Khelfa.

professionally, would you say that film is your favourite? Yes, I like being a director and I love being in the editing room – it’s the best thing in my life, I could spend 24 hours in there! It’s amazing to put pictures and images together and make meaning from them. With a documentary, you just film all day and then you have to do something with that footage. How would you describe your personal style? My style is very classic; I wear suits with heels a lot. It’s nothing revolutionary, but I like it. What is the most important piece of advice you’ve been given? I’ve been given a lot of good advice; but, you have to do your own thing. Never wait too long for anything, because life goes by so quickly. You make a lot of mistakes in life, but you learn much more by making mistakes than you do through success. What would you tell young women pursuing their dreams? Do what you want, but believe in yourself when you do it – it’s a very important thing to believe in yourself. If you have something that you really want to pursue, go and do it. It doesn’t matter if you fail, you can do it again and again and again – that’s life. When you’re young, you think failing is the end of the world, but it’s not. What’s the most valuable lesson you’ve learnt from your time in the fashion industry? I’ve learnt a lot about style. I make a lot of fashion mistakes – but sometimes, doing the wrong thing results in a look that is much more interesting and different from anyone else’s.

M OJEH N ew s

New For NOW From the Dubai Opera’s foray into world-class classical music to Prada’s unisex perfume launch that challenges fragrance stereotypes, MOJEH acts as your compass as we navigate through December and January’s most notable moments.

The Vulgar: Fashion Redefined Until February 5, 2017 The Vulgar is a first of its kind. The exhibition explores the challenging and compelling territory of taste in fashion and examines the constantly evolving notion of vulgarity, showcasing over 120 intriguing objects, from historical costumes to couture. The Barbican, London

Against the Darkness: Until January 7, 2017 Ayyam Gallery, Beirut, opens its doors to the solo exhibition of leading Iranian calligrapher and painter Mohammad Bozorgi, Against the Darkness. Recognised as a trailblazer among a new wave of contemporary calligraphers, Bozorgi takes an experimental approach through vivid colour and geometry to create abstract illusions. Ayyam Gallery, Beirut

Prada Launches Olfactories Breaking away from the traditional conventions of perfumery, Prada launches a series of 10 unisex scents. Potent concoctions of the unexpected, Olfactories evoke a surreal, cinematic experience, each united by a disregard for traditions. A series with a sense of mystery, the feminine and the masculine combine while embracing the spirit of collage, shying away from the ingredients typical to perfumery.

Dior Launches Prestige CrĂ¨me Riche Helping us to start 2017 with a hydrated glow, Dior now offers its cult CrĂ¨me in a new rich texture, perfectly adapted to dry skin and cold climates. Thanks to its highly penetrating 100 per cent natural ingredients (mango butter, waxes and oils), Dior Prestige instantly blends into the skin to satiate it.

BBC Proms: March 21 to 24, 2017 Dubai Opera brings the magic of classical music to the Middle East. The aim of this much loved British tradition is to bring the genre to as wide an audience as possible. Highlights include contributions from living composers Gary Carpenter and Mohammed Fairouz, the BBC Symphony Orchestra and, of course, The Last Night of The Proms, which is known to entertain and delight with its lighthearted approach. Dubai Opera

Sunglasses, MARNI | top, FENDI

Large lenses look for larger dreams. Pairings of duck egg shell blue and tortoiseshell brown remind us that retro aspirations can always be revived.

Photographed by Vivienne Balla Styled by Kelly Baldwin

Sunglasses, MARNI | top, FENDI

Sunglasses, knit and skirt, MARNI

Sunglasses, MARNI | top, CHANEL

Model: Christina Maria Anderson at MMG Hair and makeup: Marisol Steward Styling assistant: Sophie Pasztor Location: Nikki Beach Resort & Spa Dubai Marni Eyewear is exclusively available at Grand Optics

DESIGNER INTERVIEW

of Print MOJEH speaks exclusively with Massimo Giorgetti and gets to know the man steering the house of Emilio Pucci in a bold new direction, while respecting its rich history.

Words by Mary Keenan

Boldly patterned separates in bright hues characterised Giorgetti’s spring/summer17 collection for the house

Massimo Giorgetti’s journey into fashion hasn’t exactly followed a conventional route. The Italian-bor n designer had stints as an accountant, salesman, fit model and DJ before eventually starting his own label, MSGM, in 2008, which marked the beginning of his meteoric rise through the Italian fashion industry. Since then, business has been booming – MSGM has enjoyed unprecedented success by tapping a niche in the market for affordable yet stylish luxury fashion – and, in March last year, Giorgetti was appointed creative director of heritage Italian house, Emilio Pucci. “Pucci is one of the houses that has truly made a mark on Italian fashion history,” explains Giorgetti. “Not only was it one of the early pioneers in defining the quality and distinctive characteristics of local fashion, it also established itself internationally, taking Italian style worldwide. The challenge of working for a brand with such a strong heritage is to find a way to remain true to the Maison’s roots, while still appealing to a modern customer.” This challenge has been a significant one for Giorgetti, whose first runway show last year met with mixed reviews. But, he’s slowly and steadily found his feet at Pucci. “After a year and a half, I finally feel inside the brand. I’m really lear ning a lot here. Every time I step into the archives, I discover something new, which drives my curiosity,” he says, pausing slightly b e f o re c o n t i n u i n g , “ I t ’s l i k e o p e n i n g marvelous little boxes of toys; it’s both interesting and exciting. T ime always flies when you do things with passion.”

These days, time is a precious commodity

believing in myself and my aspirations.

for Giorgetti, who spends his working week

Historically, Pucci is a brand that is

travelling between MSGM’s headquarters

synonymous with print, which is a theme

in Milan and Pucci’s offices in Florence.

that has always been very important to

“I’m not a workaholic, but I do work a

me. Additionally, I feel like I can relate to

lot,” he smiles. In the years preceding his

the way Emilio Pucci anticipated trends

appointment at Pucci, Giorgetti carved

and created something new.”

out his playful style signature displaying

Giorgetti’s own creative process when

his flair and penchant for print from

designing for the house begins with a

MSGM’S very first collection. His fun,

specific source of inspiration, such as a

energetic and fashion-forward aesthetic

film, song or photograph. His time spent

has been eagerly embraced by fashion’s

on the sales floor before becoming a

youthful ‘it’ crowd. The offer to join Pucci

designer also plays a part, “It helped a

in 2015 came as a welcome surprise, “I

lot,” he says. “It allowed me to experience

certainly couldn’t have imagined all of

fashion from a different perspective.

this,” he reflects, “But, I never stopped

When I design, I first try to visualise the

Alpine motifs inspired by Slim Aarons’ photography adorned the autumn/ winter16 collection’s knitwear and outerwear

pieces displayed in the showrooms and the stores. For the autumn/winter16 collection, I was inspired by Slim Aarons’s photography and the idea of a timeless, moder n jet set. I was also inspired by Emilio Pucci’s beginnings as a sportswear designer. Not many people know that he actually began his career with a ski-outfit he designed for a friend in Zermatt in 1947, so I wanted to take the Maison back to its roots, with a modern point of view, for this collection.” Giorgetti is one of a growing number of young creatives who have taken the helm at a storied fashion house in the last two years. This gravitation towards younger designers is perhaps indicative of the fashion industry’s recognition of the increasing importance of attracting and engaging millennial consumers to develop brand loyalty from early on,

Pucci’s Resort collection shot at the Museo Marino Marini in Florence consisted of luxe athleisure-style jackets

a notion that the Italian designer fully comprehends. “Millennials are wiser than previous generations; they’re also more self-conscious, but they are not

she’s also self-confident, sophisticated,

the textile research,” notes Giorgetti,

passive consumers,” he muses. “They

ironic and nonchalant,” he explains. “I

“Emilio Pucci himself was always at the

are both creators and curators. Today,

don’t have a specific muse, I think it’s

forefront of technological innovation when

the idea of status is not only shaped by

a very old concept. But, I do believe

it came to fabrics. Therefore, I wanted

luxurious and exclusive possessions,

in charm: The way you move, how you

to create garments from jersey, one of

but also by a commitment to freedom of

behave, what you say and how you say

the founding fabrics of the Maison.”

expression, as well as new experiences

things, and the way you dress. It’s not

Working with jersey afforded the designer

and technology that can keep up with a

about age for our woman, but it’s all

an excellent opportunity to drape,

busy lifestyle. Just luxury alone will not

about positivity and colours instead.” This

resulting in beautifully light, floaty and

cut it for consumers anymore – freedom

emphasis on colour was evident in the

feminine dresses of varying lengths and

is the key concept.”

brand’s vividly coloured spring/summer17

proportions, were ornately and delicately

G i o r g e t t i ’s

millennial

collection, which was comprised of

draped and ruched across shoulders

consumers has had a direct impact on

viewpoint

shades of daffodil yellow, bright orange,

and torsos. As well as the dresses,

his perception of today’s Pucci woman.

aqua blue, baby pink, cobalt blue and

Giorgetti sent out a legion of boldly

“The Pucci woman is culturally rich, she

lime green. “One of the most important

printed separates, accessorised with

doesn’t take herself too seriously, but

aspects of our spring/summer show was

coordinating ankle boots and oversized

Vibrant separates cut from lightweight jersey fabric set a playful tone at the spring/summer17 show

fringed raffia clutches. The combination

feat finding inspiration to design collections

So, where to from here then? Our

of block colours and prints proved to

for two very different brands season after

conversation with the Italian designer takes

be a smart move on Giorgetti’s behalf –

season, but Giorgetti seems to be taking

place shortly after his spring/summer17

the wildly patterned shorts, jumpsuits,

it all in his stride. “Pucci has such a rich

show; therefore – understandably – he’s

miniskirts, playsuits and summer trenches

universe in which you always discover new

still basking in his well-deserved post-

are sure to hold boundless appeal for

stories; it’s a wonderful journey from which

show success before divulging too much

Pucci’s younger clients, while the finely

I’ve learnt so much so far by working in the

information about the direction his next

draped dresses and printed accessories

archives, reading books about Pucci and

collection will take, but confirms that

will cater to those reluctant to wear print.

speaking to different people who are part

creating wearable garments is of paramount

For a man simultaneously managing two

of the brand’s history,” Giorgetti enthuses.

importance to him. “Emilio Pucci was one

of Italy’s most successful fashion brands,

“I was born and raised in Rimini, just like

of the greatest pioneers of Italian fashion –

Giorgetti seems remarkably composed,

Federico Fellini, which is why the Italian

a world-renowned figure who made Italian

calm and positive. As we broach the topic

seaside and its colours are a constant

fashion famous for a variety of reasons.

of designer burnout, he offers a wry smile

source of inspiration for me. Music also

Of these reasons, the wearability of

before saying, “To ensure I remain relaxed

constantly influences my life. It punctuates

Pucci’s collections, that enabled women

and focused on my work, I run, do yoga and

my days, evokes memories and creates

to go effortlessly from one occasion to

I go for a walk with Pane, my beloved Jack

many new ones. Music amplifies life, and

the other, is the most important and is

Russell. I also make sure I eat regularly,

I like to think that my collections are a

what makes a Pucci piece so special.”

take time to breathe, disconnect my phone

material interpretation of sound – music

We look forward to seeing what each new

and listen to a good album.” It’s no easy

for your eyes.”

season under Giorgetti’s tenure will bring.

MOJEH.COM

MOJEHMEn.COM

Your go-to source for daily updates and inspiration from the worlds of fashion, beauty, culture and society.

The essential daily guide to luxury living for modern gentlemen in the Middle East and beyond.

The Mood

PRABAL GURUNG

PETER PILOTTO

When one thinks of ski season sweaters, it’s hard not to imagine bobbly, ’80s-style jumpers with reindeer and snowflakes emblazoned across them in lurid colours. However, designers have (thankfully) brought an air of refinement to après dressing by choosing to craft superfine knitwear in cuts and prints that exude a timeless luxury. At Emilio Pucci, Massimo Giorgetti alluded to Slim Aarons’s concept of the modern jet set with boxy jumpers depicting snow-capped mountain ranges. He kept the kitsch element usually associated with skiwear jumpers in check by selecting wool in rich shades of forest green and burgundy, and created a contemporary silhouette by pairing voluminous sleeves with a contrasting turtleneck. At Peter Pilotto, a palette of purple, grey, navy and cream was spun into oversized diamond patterns on form-fitting knitwear. Tucked into high-waisted trousers, these jumpers were both grown-up and incredibly chic. This new offering of après-style knitwear shouldn’t just be confined to the slopes. Look for high quality knits in boxy or oversized cuts that can be worn over a structured shirt or with a pair of leather trousers for a look that’s right on trend. For slightly softer Alpine-inspired attire, consider a chunky cable knit, similar to Prabal Gurung’s icy blue sweater dress.

Words by Mary Keenan

Après Hour

Elevate your post-skiing attire to a whole new level with the season’s fresh take on a winter staple.

The Lady Dior handbag is made from shiny calfskin and is printed with an oversized orchid in full bloom

The Lady Dior croisière clutch bag features a vividly colourful print of Marc Quin’s composition artwork

A r t is t ic I

ssi

Images courtesy of Dior

An exclusive collaboration sees the Lady Dior handbag undergo a bright and colourful makeover this winter.

Dior has teamed up with seven international multi-

flowers, foliage and fruit in his London studio, and

disciplinary artists, including Matthew Porter, Chris

then photographs. Quinn’s bags for Dior feature

Martin and Ian Davenport, to create an exclusive

vivid images of his still-life paintings on one side

limited edition collection of handbags and leather

of the bag and the same motif with the colours

goods for the holiday season. Contemporary

reversed on the other side of the bag. He also

British sculptor, designer and painter Marc Quinn

designed a complementary range of clutches

was one of the artists chosen to collaborate

and wallets to match the Lady Dior bags, as well

with the brand, fusing the bold, vibrant and

as a silvered leather Lady Dior, decorated with

modern design aesthetic that has become his

flower petals worked in relief. These bright and

signature with the classic silhouette of the Lady

beautiful accessories make for a bold, striking

Dior bag. Quinn drew inspiration from his own

and unique style statement. The line of handbags

hyperrealist oil paintings, which are based on still-

will be available at Dior’s Mall of the Emirates

life compositions that he creates with fresh exotic

boutique from the beginning of December.

T h e A cces s o ry

Crafting The Club MOJEH takes a behind-the-scenes look at the careful craftsmanship required to create one of Miu Miu’s most coveted handbags

Left: Each bag takes approximately five hours to make, with all of the bag’s components stitched and assembled by hand

Images courtesy of Miu Miu, Words by Mary Keenan

Top: The Club’s chain strap is adjustable, enabling it to be worn as a cross body or short flap bag

Made from a special mix of aluminium, zinc, magnesium and copper the chain detailing is surprisingly lightweight

Taking its name from the eclectic and spirited excess of the 1980s nightlife scene, Miu Miu’s Club handbag exudes vintage cool. Inspired by the vision of a girl out dancing in a vinyl pencil skirt and chandelier earrings, the bag is constructed from striped nappa lambskin leather set with matelassé quilting – an effect which is created by layering and joining three separate materials together. The pieces are then carefully hand-pieced and sewn together by Miu Miu’s team of highly skilled artisans. Metal hardware detailing such as the classic Palladian chain shoulder strap, French welting and polished steel lettering provide a toughened juxtaposition against the bag’s softly structured silhouette. A second chain strap drapes across the front flap of the Club like a necklace, heightening its edgy appearance. Aside from the pictured cherry red leather model the Club is available in a vast array of different

The Club bag is finished with a French piping trim which runs along the entire perimeter of the bag

coloured leather including black, ice blue, beige and blush pink as well as versions in velvet and denim. The perfect accessory to harness and complement this season’s rebellious ‘80s redux trend, pair with a denim shirt and sleek biker jacket or oversized knitwear with distressed denim for grungy cool girl glamour. If a sophisticated uptown vibe is more your scene, then the special edition Club which features a bejewelled chain embellished with pearls and crystals is a must-have.

The bag’s matelassé effect is created by joining together an elastic cloth panel, a layer of wadding and the nappa leather

T h e F i nis h i ng To u ch

At Valentino, fur was soft and feminine with delicate patchwork detailing in gentle pastel hues used to create cropped capelets

F i

r e

Soft and tactile fur stoles and capelets make their mark as the seasonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most elegant and versatile accessories.

Words by Mary Keenan

Elegant fur stoles fastened loosely at the neck with velvet bows were the perfect accompaniment to Alberta Ferretti’s evening gowns

Seen across many autumn/winter16 runways from New York to Paris, delicate fur accents bring an air of sophistication to any cold weather ensemble. Ideal for those staying within the region this winter, tap into the trend by wearing a fur scarf, shrug or stole. There are plenty of excellent faux fur options available to satisfy the ethically–minded, with Ralph Lauren, Stella McCartney and Calvin Klein all offering up chic synthetic fur alternatives. To make a statement at a black tie event, opt for Valentino’s timeless pastel-hued cropped capelet that sits over the shoulders, or loosely drape one of Alberta Ferretti’s plush stoles diagonally across the shoulders and upper torso. When it comes to daywear, establish an off-duty look that packs a sartorial punch by pairing a brightly coloured fur stole with relaxed knitwear and indigo or white denim, and add a felt fedora to complete the look. To channel a more formal daywear vibe, pair a grey, black or fawn stole with a silk white shirt and flared trousers. When purchasing, invest in a high quality real or faux pelt that will stand the test of time.

Icy blue undertones an aura of a winter wonderland at Lanvin where fur stoles were draped nonchalantly over one shoulder

In Transit

se a s o n al s ty le

Use the transition to your next jaunt as a way of expressing your creativity. Forgo conventional style and migrate towards unlikely fabric choices such as leather to update your look, while finding comfort in relaxed culottes and practical shoes.

Compiled by Sophie Pasztor

BARBARA BUI

Oriental Express

DRIES VAN NOTEN

From bamboo prints at Pucci to delicate silk from Phillip Lim, designers encourage us to journey East, where traditional Oriental motifs are given new life. Ornate jewellery and exotic bird bags direct attention to details, while a subtle injection of red bestows good luck.

D e sig n er F o c u s

Cinq à Sept Inspired by the hours between 5 and 7 pm, Cinq à Sept derives its name from the French term, which describes the moment when afternoon becomes evening. Designer: Jane Siskin Location: New York Designer background: Siskin was formerly a designer for denim label 7 For All Mankind and then played a pivotal role in the launch of Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen’s brand, Elizabeth and James, before starting Cinq à Sept in 2015. Worn by: Michelle Obama, Jessica Chastain, Harley VieraNewton, Kate Hudson and Priyanka Chopra. Design aesthetic: Sophisticated, feminine and modern, the brand embraces unexpected details and striking silhouettes, resulting in carefully considered, highly wearable garments that

The Ones to Watch

enhance the confidence and allure of the woman wearing them.

We get to know the designers and brands set to make their sartorial mark in 2017

Novis Jordana Warmflash launched Novis in 2012 after struggling to find an outfit to wear to a wedding. In the ensuing four years, Warmflash has gained critical acclaim for her bold, feminine and youthful designs. Designer: Jordana Warmflash Location: New York Designer background: Jordana Warmflash launched her own label in 2012 after stints at Peter Som, Alice + Olivia and Zac Posen. Defining moment so far: Nominee for International Woolmark Prize 2016 and winner of the Ecco Domani the company of past winners: Alexander Wang, Proenza Schouler and Prabal Gurung. Design aesthetic: Inspired heavily by the Sixties, Novis playfully uses colour and texture to create unique and upbeat clothes you would be hard-pressed to find anywhere else.

Words by Mary Keenan

womenswear award in 2014, which puts Warmflash in

Y/Project Launched as a menswear label by Gilles Elalouf and Yohan Serfaty in 2010, Belgian-born designer Glenn Martens was appointed creative director of the house in 2013 following Serafty’s sudden death. Marten’s designs were extremely popular with female customers, which led to his decision to implement womenswear in 2014. Designer: Glenn Martens Location: Paris Designer background: A graduate of The Royal Academy of Fine Arts, Antwerp, Martens worked at Jean Paul Gaultier and left to launch his own eponymous brand in 2012. Defining moment so far: Finalist for the LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers Design aesthetic: Martens’s fascination with gothic architecture is evident in the structural, androgynous and versatile streetwear pieces that have become his calling card. There’s a Rick Owens-style rawness to his collections, which embrace gender fluidity.

Sandy Liang Initially an architecture student, native New Yorker Sandy Liang traded buildings for fashion, launching her eponymous label upon graduating from the Parsons School of Design two years ago. Since then, she has garnered a loyal following of cool girls. Location: New York Designer background: Liang completed internships at Jason Wu, Opening Ceremony and Phillip Lim while studying at Parsons, and describes the decision to launch her own brand straight after graduating as a mix of naivety and optimism. Worn by: Kate Foley, Soo Joo Park, Kate Bosworth and Hanneli Mustaparta. Design aesthetic: Offbeat and playful, Liang’s designs are nonchalantly cool, yet also very simple – think highly covetable fur, leather and shearling jackets, and coats that embody an edgy Downtown New York vibe.

76 A.V. Robertson Amie Robertson launched her namesake label after graduating from the Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design in 2014. Creating off-duty staples with a contemporary edge, Robertson’s designs transition effortlessly from day to night. Designer: Amie Victoria Robertson Location: London Designer background: Robertson studied at Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design, and started working as a Design Assistant for Marc Jacobs in New York and Paris upon graduating in 2014, as well as creating a line for ASOS based on her graduate collection. Defining moment so far: Marc Jacobs sitting front row at her debut runway show during London Fashion Week in February. Design aesthetic: Robertson’s highly appealing silhouettes play with proportion and volume and the designer’s flair for embellishment sees painstaking detail paid to each garment.

Koché Central Saint Martins alumna Christelle Kocher founded Koché in 2010 and has since been shortlisted for the LVMH Prize twice, for her seamless fusion of artisanal techniques on streetwear-style garments. Designer: Christelle Kocher Location: Paris Designer background: Kocher launched her own brand after stints at Emporio Armani, Chloé, Bottega and Dries van Noten, and is also the artistic director for Maison Lemarié, a specialist feather atelier owned by Chanel subsidiary, Paraffection. Defining moment so far: Finalist for LVMH Emerging Designer prize in 2015 and 2016. Design aesthetic: Refined, elegant and intriguing, Koché blurs the boundaries between streetwear and high fashion by applying couture-like techniques to fashion forward, urban silhouettes.

5 F i r s t s

Five women took a new turn in 2016, their actions lending light to the world around them. Here, we shine the

spotlight on the trailblazing paths of Middle Eastern

women raising the bar in sport, society and structure.

Words by Laura Beaney

multinational companies to embrace this type of sabbatical, today’s employees are often encouraged to give back to the world, their experiences contributing to the CSR programmes that hold increasing importance in the ever-globalised workplace. Navigating her way through Softex, the notorious Greek refugee camp, Kufaishi was there to offer aid to those who had been fortunate enough to make it to shore. Exposed to extreme conditions and intense suffering, she felt a minority. One of just two Arabic speakers amongst a larger group of European volunteers, to her it highlighted the disconnect between the two Middle Eastern worlds. “There are so few on the ground. I was especially saddened to see that,” she reflects. “We all did much needed work, but the Arabic speakers filled an emotional gap. Our presence meant we could get projects done faster and according to what the refugees actually needed.” Aside from conflicts in communication, the days were long, and beyond the physical demands of distributions and translation, it was emotionally taxing. “The hardest part for me was seeing so many young children, out of school, playing in rubble and exposed to the growing cynicism and hopelessness of the future.” Shattering an illusion that a career and humanitarian efforts might collide, Kufaishi reveals that the risk she took paid off in “I thought about my future children, who

my degree at Warwick University.”

ways that she never imagined. “It has

would ask where I was during one of the

For Kufaishi, perhaps more than most,

made me more humble, more forgiving,

worst times in humanity. I wanted to say: At

the Syrian war struck a cord, “I thought

more patient, and braver. Seeing people

least I did something,” Iraqi by birth, Zainab

about my family 25 years ago. I thought

in those types of situations gives you

Kufaishi was sharply reacquainted with her

that it could have very easily been me if

immense perspective.” As well as personal

past when, years later, images of Syrians

life had taken a different turn and we

lessons, actions like Kufaishi’s have the

helping their children onto boats flashed

weren’t so lucky as to escape.” An Invesco

power to spark critical dialogues, begging

before her. Her childhood in Baghdad

employee working in Asset Management,

the question: What am I capable of? “One

brimmed with political unrest. Having

her professional merits are typical of the

colleague in the UK donated the entire

endured two wars by the age of 10, when

success stories that punctuate the Middle

medical costs for a little girl at the camp

the Gulf War was over, her family left for

East, yet dissatisfied with easy answers,

who needed a vital operation,” she smiles.

Algeria, where they were faced with turmoil

Kufaishi wanted to do more than simply

Of course, it’s clear that returning is not

once again. “In the early ’90s, my parents

donate. “When I asked my boss for a month

easy and detachment is not always possible.

made a snap judgement to apply for asylum

of unpaid leave to volunteer, I was pleasantly

“I know that this is an ongoing situation,

in the UK,” she remembers. “I was slotted

surprised at how excited and positive he

which may last several years. I plan to return

into the education system, completing

was,” she recounts. Part of a new wave of

early next year, and help in any way I can.”

Zainab Kufaishi photographed by Julia at The Factory ME at Dusty’s DIFC, Leila Araghian photographed by Amir Jadidi at Tabiat Bridge, Tehran, Fatma Al Nabhani photographed by Bin Ali and Rand Abdul Jabbar and Meitha Al Mazrooei photographed by Talal Al Ansari

The Humanitarian – Zainab Kufaishi

M OJEH W o m en

The Visionary – Leila Araghian

Architecture in Iran has long been an anchor point for public gathering. During the 1979 revolution, Amanat’s Freedom Tower marked the meeting place of protesters and today, Daneshmir’s sweeping Pardis Mellat cinema is a space where young Persians like to hang out post-movie. The 2008 cinema, commissioned by Tehran’s Mayor, was perhaps the catalyst in a new wave of postrevolution architectural projects that have gained international acclaim; the 2014 Tabiat Bridge was the next. “I think it responds nicely to human needs both psychologically and physically,” says Leila Araghian, the young architect, whose inaugural project was the Tabiat or ‘nature’ bridge. “We have benches, green spaces and restaurants. The whole spaces are so complex and serendipitous that every time someone visits the bridge, they can experience it in a new way.” The inspiration behind Tabiat goes back to 2004, when Araghian was walking with her business partner, Alireza Behzadi. “We were crossing a bridge on a small river in Tehran and we saw an old couch; we pulled it onto the bridge and sat on it.” It was at this point they realised a new perspective. An oasis amongst the heave of the traffic-choked city, the multi-level, 270-metre bridge curves and winds its way between two parks in north Tehran. In the two years since it opened, it has the overtaken the city’s other notable structures as a hub of congregation for the youth. “People are the most important

private car and contribute to the pollution

more international recognition and, in turn,

element we must always have in mind during

or do we take a bike? How do we consume

more projects.”

design,” says Araghian on her vision for the

water or energy? These are all extremely

Despite international acclaim Araghian

Iranian people’s latest point of contact.

simple, but important ways in which every

has still felt the effects of previous political

As with many artistic ventures, during the

single person can contribute,” she enthuses.

tensions, with the aftermath of the sanctions

construction she experienced a great deal

Tabiat has attracted much attention

imposing upon her efforts. “Signing the

of criticism and mixed emotions from her

worldwide. Amongst Araghian’s accolades,

contract with a European ETFE fabricator

community, but once it was opened tourists,

which include the prestigious Architizer A+

and transferring money was the biggest

runners and pedestrians alike started to make

award, 2016 saw her win the Aga Khan Award

challenge,” she shares. “You hear that the

use of her dynamic space, the seating, like

for architecture. Given every three years, it

sanctions are lifted, but most of the banks in

her sofa, encouraging them to linger and

recognises projects that set new standards

Europe have still not accepted this.”

indulge in enticing conversation.

of excellence in architecture and successfully

One of our most powerful legacies lies in

Beyond thoughts of structure and space,

address the needs and aspirations of

architecture, yet Araghian’s contribution

Araghian is deeply concerned with the

societies across the world. “Of course this

extends far beyond this. Capturing the spirit of

environment, her bridge making a minimal

award is one of the most prestigious,” she

her community once more, she has opened up a

impact on its surroundings. “Do we use our

smiles. “Having won this, I hope it will give us

creative dialogue between Tehran and the world.

The Game Changer – Fatma Al Nabhani

two gold and two silver medals. From there, I knew that I wanted to be a professional tennis player,” she enthuses. And, while her peers considered careers in more conventional disciplines, Al Nabhani disrupted the status quo and refused to let her love for her sport waver. “I was the only female tennis player around. I didn’t have the right team or facilities to train with,” she admits. Of course, in Europe and the US, tennis plays a large part in the culture, so aspiring players are equipped with coaching, physiotherapy and crucially, community understanding. Training professionally is tough for most teenagers, but in Muscat, where the sport is still finding favour, the experience was an isolating one, the infrastructure and potential partners were simply not there. “For me, the biggest challenge was being the only person in the fray,” Al Nabhani admits. “I didn’t have a training partner or professional support system when I started out.” In the Middle East, we are becoming increasingly aware of the many fit, smart and nuanced women like Al Nabhani, who are offering an alternative model. “Growing up, the notion of an Arab girl

Turn back a few decades, and for all but

The epitome of power and prowess, what

aspiring to become a professional athlete

the most liberal of Omani families, the

she has managed to do is change the

was literally unheard of,” reflects Fatma Al

female stereotype aligned with marriage,

image of the female tennis player in her

Nabhani, whose love for tennis began the

children and domestic duties. A career

region – and today, she is not alone.

age of four. A lithe figure with an undeniable

came second place, much less a career

Stories of women like Raha Moharrak, the

sense of glamour, at 25, Al Nabhani’s

as a professional athlete. Yet, Al Nabhani

youngest Arab to summit Mount Everest,

year saw her charter new territory as a

grew up in what she describes as a

and Elnaz Rekabi, Iran’s multiple-award

professional athlete with attempts to qualify

‘tennis family’, which is now in its third

winning rock climber, are becoming

for the 2016 Rio Olympics, celebrations at

generation – her brother, a professional

typical of the new generation. “Young

the Finals in Las Palmas and Casablanca,

tennis player, was her muse while her

Arab women need to know that nothing

and her current preparations underway for

mother is her coach, mentor and greatest

is beyond their reach,” she stresses.

the Arab Tennis Championships. “I’m still

supporter. “I played my first tournament

“Whether it’s running a 10k or winning

hanging on and trying to grab a single title

at nine years old; it was the West Asian

the Grand Slam, it’s important for us

for 2016,” she says.

Championships Under 13s, and I won

to know that we can aim and achieve.”

The City Shapers – Rand Abdul Jabbar & Meitha Al Mazrooei

The main artery facilitating blood flow through the Emirates, the E11 is the region’s longest road connecting the UAE to Saudi Arabia. For many, the most conspicuous images of the route recall empty barren landscapes, a long and monotonous journey into a vast expanse of desert and dust, with little else to encounter. But, for Rand Abdul Jabbar, an architect and designer, and Meitha Al Mazrooei, the editor of biannual architecture and design platform, WTD Magazine, the route conjured curiosity. Their intrigue manifested itself in different ways – a photobook, short film and diagrammatic map documented the places and spaces discovered along E11, exposing architecture only known to a few. “It was a personally initiated project that was the culmination of the various road trips we would take across the UAE in search of diversity,” reveals Jabbar, whose processdriven practice responds to the forces of the city, adding, “In terms of landscapes, but also alternative architectural or urban models.” Their visual journey reveals the region’s little known experiments in architecture; stark blanched exteriors collide with ornate arabesque details connecting tradition, and development, East and West. “We discovered

it in a different way,” says Al Mazrooei. “It’s

clichés that proliferate in the region. Their

an interesting model for urban and housing

a gateway to other regions and it instigates

aim: To engage the creative community in

development in Al Ruwais,” Al Mazrooei says

a response to the environment around us.”

critical conversations around architecture

of the oil village in the Western region of

A response to frustration felt by the lack of

and urbanism, encouraging the public to

Abu Dhabi that caters predominantly to the

critical conversation surrounding architecture

respond to issues surrounding the built

employees of ADNOC. Sir Bani Yas Island

in the region, E11 is the inaugural element of a

environment and surrounding landscapes.

was another highlight. “We frequented it as

greater vision that began to take shape during

“We found a lot of architects coming to the

children, only to rediscover and appreciate

2016. “The vast majority of the projects we

region and working on projects without a

these places with a new outlook and

observed here were commercially driven

deep understanding of the culture. We are

experience today.”

and centred around real estate, lacking on

creating a context to counteract these forces,”

Indeed, the element of rediscovery is what

the ground research,” says Jabbar. The

enthuses Jabbar on the role of the center.

helps E11 resonate with the community

newly launched Center for Architectural

“There are, of course, people here looking

at large. “Everyone has had some form of

Discourse (CAD) is the pair’s antidote and

critically, but there hasn’t been an opportunity

interaction with the route and now they see

deliberate attempt to break from aesthetic

for people to engage publicly, until now.”

DESIGNER F O C US

MOJEH explores Anthony Vaccarelloâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s highly anticipated spring/summer17 collection debut for Saint Laurent at Paris Fashion Week

Words by Mary Keenan

Images courtesy of Saint Laurent photographs by Inia Arcaro, Jason Lloyd-Evans and Saskia Lawaks

Leather, Leopard and LamĂŠ

Large oversized gemstones crafted into playful logo detailing made for bold statement earrings

Deep V-neck cuts and voluminous ‘80s-style shoulder detailing were softened with delicate draping and pleating

Lightweight lamé fabric in molten gold brought a graceful and effortless movement to the runway

Anthony Vaccarello had some pretty high expectations to live up to ahead of his first runway show for Saint Laurent in late September. The Italian-Belgian designer took up the reins at the iconic Parisian house following Hedi Slimane’s shock departure in April. Slimane’s four-year tenure saw the brand famously renamed – dropping the Yves and gravitating towards a grungy, Nineties rock and roll-style aesthetic, in which biker jackets, military parkas and glittery minidresses ruled the Saint Laurent runway, leading to phenomenal profits and financial growth. If Vaccarello – who made a name for himself with his highly structural angular cuts, short hemlines and provocative designs at his namesake label (which has been sidelined in order to focus solely on Saint Laurent) – was feeling the pressure, his super cool collection most certainly didn’t show it. Held on Day One of Paris Fashion Week, bright blue and white neon lighting spelling out YSL, suspended from a crane outside the show venue, alerted showgoers to the fact that a new era was well and truly underway. The show took place in the brand’s soon-to-be new headquarters, a cavernous and derelict former monastery turned military base in the heart of Paris. The exposed columns, raw concrete and roughly hewn walls proved to be a dramatic backdrop for the collection, further signifying that a new chapter for the house had begun. On the runway, however, Vaccarello chose to eschew big changes, building

Patent leather ankle strap stilettos were fitted with a retro YSL logo heel

instead from where Slimane left off, with sharply tailored separates cut from a mix of leather, denim, velvet and sheer tulle. Inspired by a vintage dress from an early ’80s Yves Saint Laurent collection, Vaccarello’s runway looks featured puffed retro shoulders, sweetheart necklines and leg o’mutton sleeves, as well as sleek smoking style jackets and suits. The collection proved to be immensely wearable, holding appeal not only for the loyal legion of young twenty-somethings that have been attracted to the brand in the last five years, but also for discerning women, who appreciate understated, high quality craftsmanship in the form of effortlessly chic leather jackets, tailored trousers and structured blazers that will transition easily from the work day to the weekend. A series of looks featuring beautifully draped liquid gold lamé brought graceful fluidity and movement, injecting some molten magic into the collection’s mostly monochrome colour palette, which was also punctuated by a number of cropped bolero-style jackets woven from a rich tapestry-like fabric and asymmetric bodycon leopard print mini dresses. Vaccarello excelled when it came to accessories, too, sending out stiletto heels spelling out YSL that are sure to sell out everywhere when they do eventually hit stores. While not revolutionary, Vaccarello’s debut paid a fitting homage to the house’s renegade history, while focusing very much on the future. A solid start with a lot of promise, we wait to see what the designer does next.

Leopard print fabric in rich shade burnished amber provided a visual break from the dark colour palette

Vaccarelloâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s runway looks featured puffed retro shoulders, sweetheart necklines and leg oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;mutton sleeves, as well as sleek smoking style jackets and suits.

Patent leather mini dresses were cinched at the waist further enhancing their bodycon silhouettes

Tactile tapestry-like prints and patterns juxtaposed against the collectionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sleek leather separates

The siren call of old Havana plays out through the subtle pinks, blues, yellows and greens that sweep the city. Tattered ruffles and billowing sleeves reference Hispanic dancers, and embellished flats find favour with the cruise crowd once more.

Photographed by Liv Friis-Larsen Styled by Kelly Baldwin

Multicoloured lace dress embellished with leaf motif and white collar, silver leather belt, golden metal, white resin and yellow and brown fantasy pearl cuff, golden metal cuff embellished with strass, CHANEL

Iridescent golden fabric pullover with multicoloured palm tree motif, black and golden jersey shorts, dark golden leather belt, golden metal, golden resin and pink fabric cuff and golden metal belt, CHANEL

Black transparent silk tulle top, white cotton voile blouse and multicoloured printed crepe de chine trousers, CHANEL

Multicoloured printed silk skirt, multicoloured printed crepe de chine top, golden metal, black resin and pink, red and white fantasy pearl necklace and golden metal, red strass and pink and white fantasy pearl necklace, CHANEL

Multicoloured striped silk dress, fuchsia fabric mules, beige wood bag, golden metal, golden resin and pink fabric cuff and golden metal necklace, CHANEL

Beige leather shorts, multicoloured cotton pullover, pink, golden and black leather lace-up derbies shoes, multicolour printed bag and golden and black metal brooch, CHANEL

White, turquoise and coral cotton t-shirt, multicoloured printed silk skirt, cream, orange and green fantasy tweed jacket and golden metal necklace, CHANEL

Green, red, khaki, black and cream fantasy tweed jumpsuit, black gabardine jacket embellished with fringing, brown leather belt embellished with strass and black cord, beige lambskin and white fantasy pearl mule, CHANEL Face throughout: Complexion, Sublimage Le Teint N°20 Beige, Éclat Lumière N°20 Beige Clair, Poudre Universelle Libre N°20 Clair, Joues Contraste N°360 Hyperfresh | Eyes, Les 4 Ombres N°278 Codes Subtils | Lips, Rouge Allure Gloss N°137 Super Nude | Nails, Le Vernis N°542 Pink Rubber, CHANEL BEAUTY

Model: Iben Sund at Le Management Makeup by CHANEL Hair stylist: Annesofie Begtrup

Fierce, Fresh and Freethinking Luxe leathers reimagined as high necks and embellished pussy bow collars signal our return to retro. Pair with military stylings and sharp cuts, with vintageinspired pieces for contemporary â&#x20AC;&#x2122;70s spirit.

Photographed by Anthony Arquier Styled by Joana Dacheville and Jean-Charline Tomlinson

Top, jacket and skirt, GIVENCHY

100

Coat, LOUIS VUITTON

102

Top, coat and trousers, CÃ&#x2030;LINE | shoes, WESTON

Hat, shirt and skirt, BALENCIAGA

104

Top, CÃ&#x2030;LINE

Coat, CÃ&#x2030;LINE

106

Jacket and shirt, MASION KAYROUZ | skirt, PAUL KA | shoes, BALENCIAGA

Coat, VERSACE

108

Top and trousers, ELLERY

Suit, PLEIN SUD | coat, CHLOÃ&#x2030;

110

Top and coat, LANVIN

Coat and shoes, DIOR

112

T-shirt, HERMÈS | trousers, LANVIN | coat, CHLOÉ | shoes, PIERRE HARDY

Model: Maria Bedicka at Supreme Management Makeup artist: Annabelle Petit Hair stylist: Kazuko Kitaoka Photography assistant: Nicolas Mephane Casting director: Nicolas at The Art Board Production: Louis Agency

114

N at u r a l

Wonders Our sartorial embellishments are reflected in jewels that emit the energies of the raw earth. A light and airy palette calls for standout pieces in snake-green emerald and fiery ruby.

Photographed by Pelle Lannefors Styled by Kelly Baldwin

Dress, CÃ&#x2030;LINE

116

Dress, CĂ&#x2030;LINE | Ruby Kalinda Ring with round rubies and diamonds set in 18-karat yellow gold, platinum and sterling silver and Mala Ruby Earrings with rubies, set in 18-karat yellow gold and sterling silver, FABERGĂ&#x2030;

Suit and jacket, DIOR

118

Jacket, FENDI | Dissonance Earrings with an oval pink tourmaline, an oval green tourmaline, round white diamonds and a round ruby set in 18-karat white and rose gold, FABERGĂ&#x2030;

120

Top, skirt and jacket, DIOR

122

Dress, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN | Magnolia Ring with an oval pink sapphire centre stone of 4.52 carats, round white, brown and pink diamonds set in 18-karat pink gold, platinum and sterling silver FABERGĂ&#x2030; | Ruby Ring complimented with diamonds and 18-karat white and yellow gold, DHAMANI 1969

124

Top, skirt, jacket and shoes, GIVENCHY

126

Jacket, GIORGIO ARMANI | Foliage Earrings with emeralds and round white diamonds, set in 18-karat white gold, FABERGÃ&#x2030;

Coat, FENDI | trousers and shoes, DELPOZO

128

Knit, CHANEL | earrings from Emerald Set consisting of necklace, ring and earring, adorned with emeralds and diamonds with 18-karat white and yellow gold, DHAMANI 1969

Coat, FENDI | Délices D’Été Lumière Necklace with round white diamonds and multicoloured round and pear-shaped sapphires set in 18-karat white gold and Fallen Poppy Petal Brooch with white, yellow, pink and round violet diamonds and round demantoids and opals, set in 18-karat gold and sterling silver, FABERGÉ

130

Dress, LOUIS VUITTON | Le Chat Pushkin Brooch features a cabochon emerald, pink tourmaline, a pear-shaped and round white diamonds, round pink sapphires and emeralds, set in 18-karat white gold, FABERGĂ&#x2030;

Model: Corinna Ingenleuf at M4 Models Management Videographer: Viktor Sloth (Video live on www.mojeh.com) Hair and makeup: Manuel Losada Styling assistant: Sophie Pasztor Location: Gemfields Kagem Emerald Mine, Zambia. Special thanks to their team.

Hope G lis t ening

p e

Woven gold and silver mimic the twists and turns of fabric,

while captivating blues recall the hues of Persia. Precious pieces speak volumes when worn against a backdrop of black.

Photographed by Vivienne Balla Styled by Kelly Baldwin

White gold Ispahan earrings with rock crystals, chalcedonies, sapphires and diamonds and white gold Ispahan necklace with rock crystals, chalcedonies and diamonds, BOUCHERON | top, TIBI at BySymphony

Pink gold paved with diamonds Serpent Bohème sleeper earrings and pink gold paved with diamonds Serpent Bohème medallion necklace, BOUCHERON | dress, LOUIS VUITTON

Pink gold paved with diamonds large Serpent BohĂ¨me ring, pink gold paved with diamonds Quatre cuff and pink gold Ava Ma Jolie jewellery watch set with diamonds, white mother-of-pearl with four diamond indexes and a jewellery bracelet, BOUCHERON | skirt and dress, VALENTINO

White gold Bagha the Tiger ring with black sapphires, diamonds, emeralds and green tourmaline, white gold Quatre Radiant ring, white gold paved with diamonds Serpent Bohème necklace and white gold paved with diamonds Serpent Bohème long necklace, BOUCHERON | top, PETER PILOTTO at BySymphony | trousers CÉLINE

White and black gold Cypris the Swan earrings with black sapphires, diamonds and rubies, BOUCHERON | Dress, ROLAND MOURET

Yellow gold paved with diamonds Serpent BohĂ¨me long necklace, yellow gold Quatre Radiant ring and yellow gold paved with diamonds Serpent BohĂ¨me bangle, BOUCHERON | jumper dress, LOUIS VUITTON

Fleur du jour Necklace, in white gold and diamonds and Fleur du jour Ring, in white gold, black mother-of-pearl and diamonds, BOUCHERON | long sleeve top and belt, SAINT LAURENT | short sleeve top and trousers, CĂ&#x2030;LINE

Model: Inez at MMG Hair and makeup: Manuel Losada

140

J e w ellery N ot e s

Winter W

Enthralled by the natural beauty of white diamonds, Van Cleef & Arpels celebrate their full brilliance by showcasing the maison’s most timeless snow-sparkling pieces.

High jewellery, when it truly deserves to be called so, requires extraordinary talent, the highest quality materials and unremitting inspiration. Throughout history, Van Cleef & Arpels has been notable for its exceptional expertise and taste. It has acquired legendary gems, including the spectacular Prince Edward of York Diamond (a pear-shaped jewel from Africa weighing over 60 carats), and the illustrious maison has subsequently stood out for the sheer brilliance of its creations. In keeping with this phenomenal tradition and just in time for the winter season, Van Cleef & Arpels has unveiled an enchanting jewellery collective, which features all of the brand’s collections that are adorned entirely with white diamonds. This year, both in boutiques and on the jeweller’s website, the Snowflake necklace, punctuated with breathtakingly delicate diamond flakes, stands alongside the Cosmos collection, as well as show-stopping pieces from Flowerlace and À Cheval High Jewellery. If there is a gift almost guaranteed to make the recipient swoon with joy, it’s a sparkling diamond. These timeless stones are forever appealing, but the value of coloured diamonds (whether they be a candy floss pink, royal navy blue or blood red) has skyrocketed while the cost of white diamonds dwindles. Today’s pieces are set with splendid stones that all perfectly match in size and graduation – but, what many white diamond creations lack is character.

Bandeau ring, large model earrings and bracelet from Snowflake collection, VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

Pendant earrings and high jewellery watch from À Cheval collection, VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

The Van Cleef & Arpels collective, however, has the decadent distinction and opulent style of a bygone era. Central stones and paved surfaces of white gold or platinum boast meticulous attention to detail, which accentuates each diamond’s brilliance and celebrates the Parisian jeweller’s longstanding love affair with these incandescent gems. Particularly in vogue during the Art Deco period, and again in the Fifties and Sixties, each piece is a feat of high jewellery engineering and is set, uninterrupted, with diamonds of various cuts. After the austerity of World War I and II, graphic and geometric forms were manipulated, giving way to more feminine and emblematic designs. This White Period of Art Deco produced some of Van Cleef & Arpels’s most abstract silhouettes. The Flowerlace collection, for example, brings together the elegance of nature and couture by combining the delicacy of lace with the vulnerable grace of flowers. Pieces resemble interlaced ribbons, as well as delicate diamond petals and blossoms. Cosmos, meanwhile, draws inspiration from the four-leaf clover, which is thought to bring good luck. As its name would suggest, the Snowflake collection’s magnificent round diamonds form sensational snow crystal motifs. Perhaps the most breathtaking piece from the whole collective is this collection’s sensational curved necklace, which elegantly falls on the wearer’s collarbone. Meanwhile, thanks to a relief setting technique, À Cheval’s stones are elegantly superimposed to create a remarkable effect of brilliance.

Compiled by Sophie Pasztor

142 HIGH NOTES

PRADA

1 2

3 4

Fine Feathers Following the popular bird motif from a/w16, feathers take flight as the next must-have. Its artisan aesthetic appeals to fine jewellery designers, like that of Dior and Piaget, who mould the natural material to everything from watches to cuffs.

1. DIOR FINE JEWELLERY | 2. PASQUALE BRUNI | 3. PIAGET | 4. LYDIA COURTEILLE | 5. AKILLIS

144

DOLCE&GABBANA

1 2

Once Upon A Time Regality is heightened with stately jewels and majestic hues. Princess-cut necklaces and royal clover motifs add to the fairy-tale charm of the trend. Wear with embroidered dresses and decorative piping details.

1. PIAGET | 2. ELIZABETH GAGE | 3. CHOPARD | 4. CINDY CHAO | 5. ISTANA JEWELLERS

146

T h e C o llec tio n

b b o n

D a n c e We enter into the innovative world of Vinita Michael as she explores fluidity in movement. It’s the mesmeric movement of light-weight ribbon that has captivated the innovative mind of jewellery designer, Vinita Michael. “The designs reflect the fluid movements of ribbons floating through air,” recounts Michael. Each piece from the collection has been meticulously designed using a unique paper sculpture technique that provides Michael with creative freedom and the ability to explore the fluidity of shapes for a threedimensional effect. The collection is crafted using the finest Swarovski crystals, with a pale palette of colours such as blush pinks, pearly whites and mint greens. “I personally gravitate towards the crystals from Swarovski. I love the way the facets on the crystals interact with light,” says Michael, going on to add, “It has this brilliance to it which is not in your face. It creates an overall premium look, which is very refined and understated.”

Words by Sophie Pasztor

Top to bottom: Swarovski crystal earrings crafted in 925 sterling silver and Swarovski crystal necklace crafted in 925 sterling silver, VINITA MICHAEL

Piaget blurs the lines between high jewellery and haute horlogerie. Whether it is concealed in a ring, strategically positioned in a bracelet or coiled around the wrist, the context of a watch continues to evolve. The Extremely Piaget Sautoir watch is one of the latest designs to join this motion, capitalising on the ingenuity of haute horlogerie. Its incredible construction resembles that of a high jewellery necklace, but with an added and unexpected twist. Moulded with 195 marquise-cut, 287 brilliant-cut, 35 cushion-cut and 16 pear-cut diamonds, for a truly opulent statement. Each platinum setting has been customised for the stone that it encloses, and has a delicate link that webs the structure together, allowing the incorporation of several varying shapes to be included in the design. Suspended at the tip of the sautoirâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s chain is an elegant watch module with a 56P

Words by Sophie Pasztor

quartz movement, encased in a gem-set ball measuring a diameter of 26mm.

148

J e w ellery & Wat ch e s Ex t r act

Storied

As precious stones continue to command our attention and drive jewellery trends, we explore the historical significance and lore of coloured gems.

An extract from MOJEH Jewellery and Watches 2017 Edition, published November 2016 and available now.

Words by Laura Beaney

Main image Winterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Palace, MOJEH Issue 23 Photographed by AMBER GRAY. Images courtesy of CHANEL, Getty and Van Cleef & Arpels.

StoNES

150

A story shrouded in myth and superstition the Les Talismans de Chanel high jewellery collection refers to Gabrielle’s penchant for symbols of charm and protection

Kagem and Montepuez stream vivid green

cut and manufactured, and the way the woman

pearls that had formerly belonged to the Queen

and rich red stones to suppliers each day.

wears the stone is completely different to the way

of France, Marie Antoinette. When the necklace

The Gemfields mines, based in Zambia and

she would wear her watch or a pair of shoes.”

went up for auction in 2007, it was valued at

Mozambique, cater to the soaring demand

For millennia, stones have played a part in our

almost AED 3 million, but to great surprise, it

for precious, coloured stones that have seen

spirituality in its various guises, from crystal

failed to meet the reserve. Perhaps the no-sale

the prices of emeralds and rubies growing at

healing to talismans. This connection was

is a testament to the enduring sense of power

an exceptional pace.

recently realised in high jewelley medium, with

and superstition we afford to gemstones, indeed

Coloured stones in general are experiencing a

the Les Talismans de Chanel collection referring

in many cultures both opals and pearls are said

renaissance. From the sapphire engagement

to Coco Chanel’s famously heightened sense

to bring bad luck when purchased second-hand.

ring that once belonged to Princess Diana and

of superstition. Known to draw inspiration

But who decides that opals are unlucky and

is worn today by the Duchess of Windsor, to

from Eastern mysticism, the founder of the

that blue sapphires are fit for royalty? The

the opulent emerald necklace designed by Van

French fashion house surrounded herself with

meaning of a certain stone can change greatly

Cleef & Arpels for the Maharani of Baroda, our

talismans and symbols of good luck that later

according to geography, theology, culture and

connection to colour has deeper roots than a

fed through into her designs.

time. “Gemstones were often attributed healing

trend in time. Indeed, jewellery is arguably the

While high-profile royals like Princess Mary drove

powers because of the symbolism of their colour,

most personal of collectable items, with pieces

mainstream trends for coloured stones after she

not because of any chemical constituent,” says

often individually commissioned to the taste of

was recorded wearing an emerald engagement

Richard Liddicoat of the Gemological Institute of

the owner. And, when passed down or resold,

ring during the Twenties, bad press and negative

America. “For example, red or reddish stones,

that piece relays the story of its creator. “These

connotations can equally affect the popularity

such as the ruby, spinel, garnet, carnelian

stones were hidden for 500 million years,” says

of precious stones for the wrong reasons.

and bloodstone were thought to be sovereign

Ian Harebottle, Gemfields CEO. “If you’re the first

The Sutherland necklace, for example, bears

remedies for all types of haemorrhages.”

one to touch that stone it does something to you.

a heavy burden. Belonging to the Countess

The colour of heat and blood, the power of

The energy sits there once the stone has been

of Sutherland, the piece was made up of 33

the ruby has typically lent itself to passionate

152

The Sutherland necklace is the culmination of 33 of Marie Antoinette’s pearls set with diamonds and rubies. It was auctioned at Christie’s London in 2007

activities. In religion, Hindus credited rubies

particularly substantial collection of the stones,

resonate with women today,” says Harebottle.

with their personal safety, while culturally, many

while the 25-carat Burmese Sunrise ruby is the

While rubies conjure fire, emeralds are said

Indians believed that the stone allowed them to

most expensive in the world, recently selling for

to soothe the soul. “Emeralds are generally

live in peace with their enemies. “In the south of

an incredible AED 110 million at auction. Today,

recognised as the first reported luxury good

India, a marriage is incomplete without a ruby,”

the stone’s legacy continues to be celebrated.

known to man: this goes back to the Incas and

notes Harebottle. “While in the Ming dynasty,

Catering to the increased demand for information

Aztecs,” says Harebottle. “The people realised

rubies played a very important role, they were

surrounding gemstones, their origins and history,

that when it rained, the fields were green and

taken into battle for protection,” he continues.

earlier this year, Gemfields released a triptych of

life was good,” he continues. Associated with

With the belief that rubies made their warriors

films detailing ruby inspired stories, tapping into

calm, spring and rebirth, the colour green is

invincible in battle, the Burmese like the Chinese

the mysticism and legend surrounding the stones

prevalent in both African culture and Islam.

were prolific collectors of the red stones. The

rather than just the aesthetic. “Rubies have been

Thailand is home to the sacred emerald

rubies hailing from Burmese mines are still today

renowned for their magical properties since the

Buddha, which is in fact made from jade, while

benchmarked as the most expensive and rare

beginning of civilisation… we wanted to explore

the lapidaries of the First Century were said to

in the world. Burma’s King Thibaw owned a

how these beautiful and mysterious gemstones

use emeralds to restore damaged eyesight.

Attesting to the supposed medicinal benefits of the green stone, in 1609, Belgian physician Anselmus de Boodt claimed that emeralds could cure a plethora of aliments from dysentery to epilepsy. And from Cleopatra to the Empress of Iran, the world’s most revered rulers were documented wearing emeralds. The stones are said to signal protection against evil and for many they are a symbol of both enlightenment and high social status in equal measure. “Since the beginning, the Maison has taken the time to search the world for exceptional emeralds,” says Alessandro Maffi, managing director at Van Cleef & Arpels, Middle East and India. Twenty times as scarce as diamonds, these rare stones were carved with verses of the Quran by the Emperors of the Moghul period, while Shah Jahan, creator of the Taj Mahal, had emeralds inscribed with sacred text that he wore as protection. In a rich cultural exchange during the 1900s, high jewellery maisons like Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels were commissioned to create custom pieces for India’s dignitaries. Exposed to the new and opulent traditions of India, the country’s influence is palpable in the high jewellery collections that followed and found

The Indian emerald necklace was a special order for H.H. Prince Aga Khan, 1971

favour with the European elite - Cartier’s 1936 Hindu necklace commissioned by socialite Daily Fellows is one such standout piece. Historically, jewellers have set emeralds in yellow gold – a pure metal thought to enhance

gemology remains as rife today as it was when

the tradition has been prevalent since the First

the radiance of the stone – yet in Emeraude

the Burmese first discovered their ruby mines.

Century many today afford significant emotional

en Majeste, a collection created to celebrate

Discovered by an Indian tailor in 1967 the

attachment to their appointed birthstones.

Van Cleef & Arpels’ enduring affection for the

Tanzanian tanzanite, which is associated with

Whether selecting a simple stone tied with

stone, emeralds are set among diamonds and

communication, became the latest addition to

string for protection or commissioning an

sapphires in white gold. Mined in Colombia,

the list of birthstones, updated in 2002.

elaborate piece like that of a Maharaja, the

Brazil and Zambia, the stones are scarce and

“Birthstones have long been identified with

selection of any gemstone carries a greater

today’s elevated market prices further fuel our

healing powers and talismans,” says Liddicoat.

importance than simply considering a colour

fixation with the mysterious emerald.

“The list has evolved over centuries and many

to match our mood. From the realms of

Transcending cultures, religions and traditions,

variations of it have been used.” Throughout

tradition and folktales to the skilled maisons

the stories surrounding our stones are vast and

history the bounds of birthstone definition have

creating custom designs for dignitaries at Place

varied. While many of the merits we assign to

altered with birth month, zodiac sign and even

Vendome, our choice in precious stones has

our stones have been borrowed from legend

the time of day of birth, acting as deciding factors

the ability to communicate complex messages

or folklore, the conversation surrounding

when it comes to assigning stones. Although

and install power and prowess into the owner.

154

Face mists are the new buzzword in beauty. Shower thirsty skin with Clinique’s Moisture Surge Face Spray for rapid hydration and select Clarins Fix’ Makeup with invigorating grapefruit extract and organic rosewater to revitalise your makeup throughout the day.

Left to right: Fix’ Make-up, CLARINS | The Mist, LA MER at Harvey Nichols-Dubai | Moisture Surge Face Spray, CLINIQUE

Photographed by Rhys Simpson-Hopkins, styled by Sophie Pasztor

B e a u ty N ote

Larger Than Life As our lips continue to steal the beauty limelight, we look at the latest phenomenon in our quest for fullness â&#x20AC;&#x201C; enhancing masks. Bigger brows became fuller lips as we transitioned into 2017. Since then, there have been many innovations that fight for our thirst for a fuller pout, from the lip pump popularised by YouTubers to cosmetic fillers and, of course, Kylieâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cult lip kit. The latest craze in the year of the lip comes in the form of the lip mask. Like many beauty discoveries, we first came across it in the Far East, with the Japanese and Koreans applying the collagen-infused mini sheet masks for 15-20 minutes to achieve temporary plumpness. Do we really need a lip mask? Perhaps not, but from natural formulations designed by

Whispered Beauty, photographed by Christophe Donna, MOJEH Issue 24

beauty bloggers to Korean-style packaging that brings pure Instagram pleasure, we share our edit of the top three to try.

The Natural: All Natural Collagen Infused Lip

The Perfectly Packaged: Kiss Kiss Lovely

Mask, KNC Beauty | Beauty Benefits: Kristen

Lip Patch, Tony Moly | Beauty Benefits:

Noel Crawley first discovered lip masks in

With an exterior that calls out to our inner

Tokyo. An antidote to chemically concentrated

kawaii lover, this lip sheet is packed with

options, she came up with an all-natural

The Calm: Dreamkiss, Starskin | Beauty

vitamin C and a sweet strawberry fragrance

alternative. The short ingredient list promotes

Benefits: A potent 15-minute bio-cellulose

to leave lips feeling soft and smooth. The

plumpness naturally, the formulation blends

mask specially created for the delicate skin on

formulation includes extracts of bearberry

rose flower oil, cherry extract and vitamin E,

your lips, the formulation harnesses naturally

leaf, blackberry, blueberry and strawberry.

with collagen, glycerin and hyaluronic acid.

fermented coconut juice, sea fern, collagen and hyaluronic acid to instantly plump lips and diminish fine lines. Coconut oil, honey and chia seeds moisturise and smooth the lips.

156

M OJEH H ealth

I n f l at e d

Notions As inflammation remains at the heart of the health debate, MOJEH asks: Is it a health craze or cause for concern?

Words By Laura Beaney

into curcumin the plant compound that

and, ultimately, a new way of eating fights

gives turmeric its bright colour and has

its way into our consciousness. There were

demonstrated both anti-inflammatory and

acai berry bowls designed to revive our

anti-cancer properties.

flailing levels of antioxidants, then there was

To explain the matter further, when we

our acidity intake that became balanced

catch a cold or cut ourselves, inflammation

with avo-based everything. The avocado

fights against the infection for us. Indeed,

has, rightly, remained a dietary staple well

Like most wellness waves, widespread

the vast majority of us will have been

into 2016, but our fascination has found

interest in inflammatory-related issues first

prescribed anti-inflammatories for a range

a new focus – our body’s natural defence

sparked our interest via digital media. With

of ailments following a visit to the GP. But,

system, inflammation. A phenomenon rising

the announcement of the anti-inflammatory

how does our body’s protective response

from the typical combination of recent

diet by those at the crossroads of health,

become detrimental? Our immune system

medical research, media attention and, of

beauty and wellness, our green juices soon

is designed to identify tissue under stress.

course, those at the heart of digital health,

turned to yellow lattes as turmeric was

To combat this, the system first employs

inflammation has been named as a culprit

heralded as one of the most potent anti-

a pathway called primary inflammation.

for both physical and mental health

inflammatory ingredients of them all. And,

The pathway works on two levels by

concerns that range from depression

as our Instagram feeds were flooded with

detoxifying the tissues and by working to

and ADHD to chronic illnesses like cancer

captions coveting a certain yellow spice, we

repair the injured cells. Usually, in low-stress

and heart disease.

started to wonder – should inflammation be

situations, this response goes unnoticed as

“Inflammation is our body’s natural and

of grave concern? Yes and no.

long as our system is working efficiently.

appropriate response to injury,” explains

Of course, with the Internet comes a

We are, however, alerted to inflammation

Tanya Zuckerbrot, registered dietician and

great deal of misinformation and, indeed,

when there is a high-stress situation, for

founder of the high fibre, lean-protein

confusion. While research is ongoing,

example, a physical trauma, recurring

F-Factor Diet. Based in New York,

Harvard Health Publications agree with

emotional stress, or an allergic reaction.

Zuckerbrot’s food habits are counted

the online platforms on two points. Firstly,

But, this inflammatory response isn’t just a

upon by the hot and high-powered from

cancer, heart disease, diabetes, arthritis,

by-product of injury or illness. Inflammation

Ralph Lauren’s daughter, Dylan, to Molly

depression, and Alzheimer’s have all been

can be triggered by a range of aggravators,

Sims and Rachel Roy.

linked to chronic inflammation and secondly,

including a preservative-laden diet, exposure

“Symptoms include reddening, swelling,

one of the most powerful tools to fight

to chemicals, pesticides and pollutants,

heat, soreness, and restricted range of

against inflammation comes from the fridge.

persistent stress, gastrointestinal issues,

movement. It can also be both internal and

“Many experimental studies have shown

a sedentary lifestyle and the consumption

external,” she continues.

that components of foods or beverages may

of food allergens, like gluten and dairy.

have anti-inflammatory effects,” according to Dr. Frank Hu, professor of nutrition and epidemiology in the Department of Nutrition at the Harvard School of Public Health. His claims are further supported by studies

Rouge Awakening, photographed by Julien Vallon, MOJEH Issue 26

Every now and again, a new health concern

158

Spices like cloves, ginger, rosemary and, of course, turmeric have also been proven to have antiinflammatory effects on the body.

Zuckerbrot informs us that inflammation

ground flax seeds and ice. “Blueberries

becomes problematic when it is persistent,

and blackberries contain antioxidants that

long-term and chronic; for example, when

can reduce inflammation and aid in healing,

the inflammatory response is excessive or

chia seeds and ground flax seeds provide a

in response to something inappropriate, like

boost of Omega-3 fatty acids, which have

in the case of somebody with celiac disease

an anti-inflammatory effect on the body,

who ingests gluten. “An inflammatory

In the case of the inflamed, a game plan

and ice creates higher water content, which

response

causes

for balance is required. The answer is, of

in the body takes healing nutrients to the

gastrointestinal damage,” Zuckerbrot points

initiated

and

course, one we are all accustomed to. Dr.

cells where they’re needed and removes

out. Chronic inflammation is the type that

Miller recommends a routine of exercise

waste products,” she shares. Spices like

calls for concern; it can not only inhibit our

including meditation and yoga, social

cloves, ginger, rosemary and, of course,

ability to lose weight, but the results can

activity and a Mediterranean diet, which

turmeric have also been proven to have

also lead to an increased risk of psoriasis,

includes lean proteins, vegetables, legumes,

anti-inflammatory effects on the body.

rheumatoid arthritis, lupus, asthma, Crohn’s

and olive oil. Zuckerbrot, however, who is

The dietician also recommends sipping

disease, Alzheimer’s, cardiovascular

known for advising her high profile clients

chamomile tea and snacking on pieces of

disease, and depression.

on minute details concerning restaurant

pineapple in between meals, “Bromelain is an

In recent years, there has been much talk

menus around the clock, takes a highly

anti-inflammatory enzyme found in the core.

of anti-inflammatory drugs being used

targeted approach to her ingredients. “In

The bromelain works best when pineapple

to treat mental health problems. Yet, Dr.

order to combat inflammation, one should

is eaten separately from other foods.”

Andrew Miller, who is leading studies

lower their intake of pro-inflammatory

Thankfully, chronic inflammation is not a

in the link between inflammation and

substances and increase their intake of anti-

cause for concern for the vast majority of

disorders like depression, says that one

inflammatory substances,” says Zuckerbrot.

us. But, as supplements and yellow drinks

of our most common misconceptions is

Refined carbohydrates and sugars are to

continue to captivate, we can’t help but

that inflammation is labelled as the “root

be avoided, as well as Omega-6, which

wonder what colour our next juice will be.

of all evil”. “Realistically, it is only relevant

features heavily in modern diets and is

Inevitably, getting completely wrapped up in

to those who have it,” he says. How do

found in vegetable oils like safflower,

a hot health topic often holds little longevity

we know if this is the case? For most of

sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean, and

or power in our everyday lives, but taking

us, inflammation alone is not a disease or

canola oil. Mayonnaise, salad dressings,

the type of diet recommended by both

singular cause for concern. “Go to your

and sunflower seeds are also out, as they

Miller and Zuckerbrot into account comes

doctor and get tested,” says Miller. “If your

carry high levels of Omega-6 fatty acids.

with common sense. The bottom line? Our

C-reactive protein (CRP) is greater than

Thanks to the proliferation of the ‘anti-

health relies upon our own education and

1mg/L, you are in the moderately inflamed

inflammatory diet’, the information

insight, so a little online guidance towards

category. If it is greater than 3 mg/L, you

surrounding alternatives is plentiful, with

the dietary developments can always help

are into the high range,” he advises.

options suitable for any balanced diet.

us to move in the right direction.

Omega-3 fatty acids can be found in fatty fish like salmon, mackerel, herring and sardines, as well as in flax, chia and hemp seeds. “If you don’t eat fish, you may want to consider taking a fish oil supplement,” advises Zuckerbrot, whose breakfast smoothie blends berries, chia seeds,

160

B e a u ty F o c u s

Is this your first visit to Dubai? No it’s not, I love the Middle East. I don’t know why, but I’m sure in another past life I was a Middle Eastern woman! When I first started at Hermès, I arranged to have appointments with a lot of women from the UAE and Bahrain to gain an understanding of the culture of perfume for women here. So many perfumers work from France and just imagine the region when creating a perfume for Middle Eastern women. Tell us about your new fragrance. My first creation for the brand is Galop d’Hermès. The story starts in the Maison’s leather caves, which are in a top secret location – it’s a very special place for the house. I was very surprised and excited to discover the many different leathers there in a vast array of colours. I was touching them all and one in particular gave me the goosebumps – it was as soft as a woman’s skin! I kept that piece of leather and I’ve carried it everywhere with me for the last year! The idea to create a fragrance based on this piece of leather struck me immediately when I touched

When we meet Christine Nagel, the in-house perfumer for Hermès, at the brand’s boutique in BurJuman, she’s clutching the dusky pink piece of Doblis leather that inspired her sensual new fragrance Galop d’Hermès and greets me with a sincere smile. As we sit down to chat about the

feminine perfume with it. And what about the rose? I liked the idea of pairing a feminine rose in equal parts to the leather, but it took me a year to obtain the equilibrium. When you put the perfume on your skin, you can smell both rose and leather, it’s like a dance between the two. I also added saffron, which gives the leather a bite, and quince. I imagined a cut, pulpy quince – it’s more sensual and definitely very feminine. I’m so excited about this perfume and I really hope it will be a success. Has your study of Arabian women played a part in this fragrance? Everything I love in the Middle East has come through in the perfume. After speaking to many Middle Eastern women, I realised how so many love to mix oud or musk with their perfumes, which is why the top of the Galop d’Hermès bottle can be opened to give the accessibility of putting the oud or musk inside directly. It’s

first fragrance she has created for the French Maison, Nagel radiates

a mark of freedom, even though I think it’s

excitement and pride, as well as a passion for her craft that is truly palpable.

perfect the way it is!

Words and interview by Mary Keenan, Images courtesy of Hermes photographs by Sofia Sanchez and Mauro Mongiello

Notes From A Nose

it – I knew straightaway I wanted to create a

I went into the men’s section of a department store; there, I went along with my eyes shut and touched all the jackets. The salesman thought I was crazy! Hermès’s clothing really feeds my creativity with its many textures and colours. Where do you look for inspiration? It always starts with an idea that matters to me, such as a place that moves me, a landscape imprinted on my mind, a memory suddenly resurfacing, a painting that transports me or even the shimmering colours of a sari in Cochin. How do you develop and hone your sense of smell? Developing one’s sense of smell is a very long learning process that requires high sensitivity, a genuine curiosity about the You’ve been at Hermès for a few years now.

which ones are good and which are not. My skin

Why did joining the house feel like the right

is also my blotter – if you see me at the office,

fit for you?

I have many different coloured stickers on my

What are your key tips for finding a fragrance?

It was instinct. A lot of my personal values and

skin, which I smell constantly throughout the

Patience and time. When you walk into a

the house’s values align; we both have the same

day. I also put samples on the skin of different

perfumery with no clear idea of what you are

taste for work well done as well as a love of

people in the office… there are a lot of women

looking for, using a blotter is perfect for a first

attention to detail and creativity. For the Maison,

and men walking around the Hermès office

approach and a preliminary selection. Trying a

the insides of things are just as important as

with stickers on their skin! I smell all day and

fragrance on the skin is also essential, and using

they appear on the outside and that applies to

tweak my formula. Each day, I also smell and

a sample for one or two days to ensure the initial

everything they do, which I love.

discover four raw materials in order to train and

emotion and attraction is still there.

world and open-mindedness.

expand my sense of smell. I’m very curious! What’s an average working day like for you?

In your opinion, what is the most appealing

My working day starts in the morning, when I

How does the house’s history influence your

characteristic of perfume?

leave my house and open the door of my car.

creative process?

The fact that the right perfume resonates with

The evening before I’ll spray a sample in the car

I joined Hermès at the same time as Nadège

our emotions and memories and communicates

and close the door. My nose is very tired and

Vanhee-Cybulski, so we’ve got to know each

with us on a personal level.

fatigued at the end of the day, therefore I spray

other well. I go to the atelier very often to talk

a sample so that in the morning, when my nose

with her, and touch and look at her samples. It’s

What was your first scent memory?

is very fresh and I’m alone for 20 minutes, I can

something I’ve been doing for a long time and

My mother putting talcum powder on my

analyse the scent in depth. When I arrive at

it’s an important part of my creative process.

baby brother – she used an Italian talc called

my office, my assistant prepares a blotter and I

For example, 15 years ago I wanted to create

Borotalco. But, don’t spread that around too

smell a number of different samples and decide

a sensual fragrance – as part of my research,

much, my brother also works in perfumery!

162

M o j eh tr av el s

Me,

Myself Words by Annie Darling

AND I

Where are you next going on holiday? Will you

The number of wander women, otherwise known

winning travel blog, Girl About The Globe.

spend the week sprawled on sun-drenched,

as solo female travellers, has skyrocketed in the

Eldridge has spent the last 19 years visiting

white-sand beaches after several afternoons

past few years. At Overseas Adventure Travel, for

over 100 countries and she regularly writes

paddle-boarding atop tranquil Maldivian waters?

instance, 80 per cent of unaccompanied holiday-

about her wayfaring online. “The solo female

Or, will you be waiting for the awe-inspiring

goers are women. Of course, travelling alone is

market has boomed in the last few years and

Barcelona sunset, which bleeds bittersweet

by no means a new concept – Dutch explorer

the trend doesn’t seem to be tied to age either.

red-yellow across the thicket-snuffed Serra de

Alexandrine Tinné was the first female to attempt

Women of all generations are no longer restricting

Collserola? That is, before feasting on tapas

to cross the Sahara in the 19th Century, shortly

themselves to travelling with a partner, preferring

in one of the city’s 14th Century plazas, amid

before Swiss adventurer Isabelle Eberhardt

to take off to a far-flung destination alone instead

towering temple columns and ancient city walls.

voyaged across North Africa and Europe (albeit

of waiting for someone to come with them.” I,

Perhaps you’ll savour a weekend soaking in

dressed as a man), after which she and her

myself, know many people who have put off

one of Budapest’s steaming hot springs,

mother both converted to Islam. Nonetheless,

globetrotting plans and abandoned bucket

while falling snowflakes prickle your skin. Full

a record number of independent women are

list destinations because they haven’t found

from scrumptious sweet-pastries bursting

choosing to travel the world, unfettered and

a travel companion. For them, the prospect of

with homemade sticky apricot jam; delicacies

free-spirited. “Travelling is food for the soul,”

going alone sounds either too daunting or just

Hungary’s renowned for.

coos Lisa Eldridge, founder of the award-

not all that fun. Nonetheless, when done right,

Photographed by Ullstein Bild, Ben Davies and Thomas Lohnes at Getty

Is going it alone the best way to holiday? Solo travel can be an intimidating prospect, especially for the Middle Eastern woman, but it means, among other benefits, never having to compromise your plans.

The Hideaway, photographed by Federico De Angelis, MOJEH Issue 15

solo travel can be exhilarating and enlightening.

In fact, many travellers claim that solo holidays

shares travellers’ adventures and recommends

“Travelling helps you to put everything into

are the best way to see the world; free from a

enlightening getaways. “Travelling solo is

perspective and makes you appreciate the

friend’s influence or partner’s preference. Going

therapeutic. It allows me to listen to my heart

smaller things in life,” insists Eldridge, “and

alone, among other benefits, means never

and to my mind. It gives me time to re-collect my

travelling alone is one of the best ways to travel.

having to compromise. You’re independent and

thoughts after a busy month. It encourages me

You have the freedom to do what you want,

in control, able to sightsee at your own pace,

to step back and evaluate situations I was stuck

when you want. It teaches you how to overcome

do what interests you, and dine wherever and

on.” Once upon a time, this trend was reserved

obstacles, connect with your emotions, and

whenever you want. You don’t have to sit and

for hardened backpackers, who spent months

cope entirely by yourself.” For years, holidays

twiddle your thumbs while waiting for your travel

roughing it around the globe. Fast forward to

have gone hand-in-hand with company:

partner to emerge from their bed, and you can

2016 and it appears almost everyone is doing

family bonding, honeymoons, and girlfriend

break out from that stuffy museum the moment

it – and they’re doing it in style.

getaways. Today, that much-deserved break

the Rembrandts begin to blur together. “We often

According to the 2015 Visa Global Travel

is also an excellent opportunity to broaden

compromise on our holidays and what we really

Intentions Study, which was conducted across

one’s horizons, says Jess Horne, Marketing

want to do,” says Eldridge. “By choosing to travel

25 countries by Millward Brown, a market

Executive at luxury travel enterprise,

alone, there’s no one judging you if you want to

research organisation, solo travel has more than

Abercrombie & Kent. “It’s a great chance

stay longer in a place, go clothes shopping or

doubled among affluent travellers. Furthermore,

to meet new people,” she explains. “It’s an

just lay on the beach.”

some 24 per cent of people travelled alone on

opportunity to tick off bucket list destinations

Michelle Karam has been travelling by herself

their most recent overseas leisure vacation, an

without being held back by partners or family

since she was 16 years old. She’s also the founder

increase of 15 per cent in 2013, and while the

members who don’t share similar interests.”

of Travel Junkie Diary, an online platform that

stereotypical solo traveller had traditionally been

164

Panoramic views of Arco and Lake Garda from Mount Colodri in Italy

single and unattached, today’s solo traveller is

who plan to holiday alone. “More and more

yourself. Your intuition is your greatest asset

just as likely, if not more likely, to be married

hotels are also now no longer charging a

when you travel alone.”

or in a committed relationship. Furthermore,

single supplement, making solo travel more

Karam agrees that it’s important to be extra

a recent survey by BookYogaRetreats.com

affordable,” reveals Horne.

aware of your surroundings. “Always make sure

found that 51 per cent of people are taking

Undoubtedly, the foremost concern of the solo

you have a spare phone when you travel, in case

their next holiday alone.

traveller is safety. The fact remains that travelling

yours breaks or gets lost. Always make sure your

Solo travel is perhaps a reflection of women’s

as a female, either alone or with a companion,

hotel room is locked and always let someone

growing independence, increased equality and

isn’t without its dangers. However, with a positive

know where you are.” Karam believes wander

the cultural trend of women waiting longer to

attitude and well-researched information, wander

women from the Middle East are more likely

get married and have children. Middle Eastern

women come home stronger and more confident

to stay in touch with their families. “They call

women contemplating solitary exploration, as

than ever before. “The tourist industry is making

home more often,” she smiles, “they bring back

well as those who have no qualms about jet-

it easier for women, with companies catering

souvenirs and most of the time, they miss home

setting alone, have to overcome more obstacles

to women who want to travel alone, but in the

when they’re gone for a long time.” Despite this,

than most, often making the eventual experience

comfort of a group,” affirms Eldridge. “There

she firmly asserts, “The Middle Eastern woman

all the more rewarding. Whatever the reason,

are also more female-friendly hotels, with some

is adventurous. She climbs mountain peaks and

mainstream tour operators are tapping into this

creating women-only floors.” It’s important to

crosses continents. Today, she’s the humanitarian

growing market, offering adventurous trips for

be sensible, prepared and to always keep your

with no boundaries. She is the explorer.”

solo travellers who want to meet like-minded

wits about you. “Listen to your gut instinct,” she

While the destination you choose should be

people. Travel fees are also being dropped, and

advises. “If something feels right, go with it, but

somewhere you’ve always wanted to go, some

more packages are being marketed to people

if you feel uncomfortable in a situation, remove

regions are more accommodating than others

Koh Phi Phi Island off the coast of Krabi in Southern Thailand

and will alleviate major worries for first-time

and travel longer distances, and the digital world

solo travellers. “We are seeing more and more

allows shopping for travel easier. Travellers can

women independently booking adventures and

now directly find out all the information they

healing trips to Bali, Kenya, Maldives, Nepal

need online and this instantly allows women to

and the Alps,” reveals Karam, while Eldridge

feel more comfortable and at ease.”

recommends visiting Australia and Thailand.

Solo travel is delightfully self-indulgent, but for

“Activity holidays are increasingly popular,”

many people, loneliness is their biggest fear.

she says, whether they’re “boot camps on a

Spending a day café hopping in downtown Los

Caribbean beach” or “yoga and surfing holidays

Angeles or hiring a guide to visit remarkable

on the coast of Morocco”. Both women agree

remote ruins may sound appealing, but

that utilising social media is also important, as it

many women fret about doing these things

provides a sense of safety and companionship.

alone, especially in a foreign environment.

“Social media, I believe has really helped women

However, the beauty in solo travel is the ability

gain confidence and then inspire others to travel

to immerse yourself in the local community

solo,” says Eldridge.

and when travelling alone, you’re more

A 2014 survey commissioned by online travel

approachable and likely to meet temporary

agency Booking.com concurs, additionally

travel partners. Ultimately, many women

confirming that social media impacts solo

wanderers enjoy their first unaccompanied

travellers during their holiday, with 58 per cent

trip enough to embark on another. “Solo

admitting online platforms make them feel safer

travel is addictive,” warns Eldridge. “Once

when travelling alone. Karam also believes that

you’ve done it, you’ll want to do it again and

this increased connectivity has fuelled the trend’s

again. The hardest thing about solo travel

popularity. “Trains are faster, planes are bigger

is making the decision to actually do it.”

166

M OJEH C u ltu r e

S l im ’ s

Gilded G

Words By Laura Beaney, Images courtesy of Slim Aarons and Getty Images

His lens lent itself to a gilded world that’s all but lost. MOJEH speaks to Slim Aarons’s former assistant, Laura Hawk, to discover the world of his women.

Wendy Vanderbilt Lehman, 1964

Canellopoulos, Athens, 1961

“We fought all over the world,” laughs Laura Hawk. “Walking down the Avenida Alvear in Buenos Aires, walking down a cobblestoned street in Patmos, Greece, driving through the Mont Blanc Tunnel connecting France and Italy...” The quarrels in question took place with none other than Slim Aarons, the celebrated society photographer who once

Lady Daphne Cameron, 1959

branded his life’s work as “photographing attractive people doing attractive things in attractive places”. In the year that would have seen Aarons turn 100, his winning formula finds focus once more in Hawk’s retrospective photobook, ‘Slim Aarons: Women’.

let a bad photo surface. He had a propensity for putting them at ease and

A spotlight shone onto the image-maker’s female muses from Kennedy

carried all of his equipment himself, including his film. “He loaded his own

to Monroe, the tome encapsulates their photographs, which are the fruit

film and unpacked and packed his own equipment,” says Hawk. Aarons

of the many fights that took place while Hawk was Aarons’s assistant.

was content with making the stars shine even more brightly. He captured

“His work habits were set in stone,” recalls Hawk, who was tasked with

his subjects relaxed in their own environment, with soft, natural lighting.

handling everything for Aarons from writing and problem-solving to on-

But, what was life like for Aarons’s women? His definitive photographs

set bouncer. For 10 days every other year, the pair would descend upon

that depict a nervous Monroe surrounded by fan mail or guests gathered

the watering holes where the glitterati gathered in Gstaad, St. Moritz,

around the Canellopoulos penthouse pool have been celebrated, and

Lyford, and Cay. Their routine at these locales remained meticulous and

endlessly. With an emphasis on pleasure, this almost fictional world

unaltered. “We arrived at the hotel, usually jet-lagged, and went to sleep

makes Aarons’s oeuvre an antidote to society’s fixation with raw reality.

for a couple of hours – no more!” Hawk smiles. “Then, we would wake

“Beautiful women often hold a fascination for many people,” muses Hawk

up from the sleep of the dead, have a quick snack in one of the public

on Aarons’s enduring appeal. “When you add a great name or background,

rooms of the hotel (always with the idea of seeing who is in town), and

a wonderful sense of style and sophistication, as many of his subjects

strike out on foot.” Their mission was to discover the latest haunts

had, it’s just a winning combination.”

for Aarons’s subjects and to see whom they might run into. “This was

Despite the exuberant exteriors as with life, at times, the cracks appeared.

Slim’s formula and it worked beautifully,” she recounts. Invariably, they

“I’ve been entranced by this photo from the first time I laid eyes on it,” says

would run into people Aarons knew, set up appointments and the story

Hawk when she looks to the shot of Lady Daphne Cameron, sprawled on a

would unfold from there.

tiger skin throw. “I find her to be quite sad, in the vein of some photos of

The history of photography has produced few image-makers that were

Marilyn Monroe over the years. Quite beautiful, but not terribly happy.”

able to move amongst elite circles as freely as Aarons did. Lending his

Fortunately, as Hawk recounts, Slim was ‘quick to get over irritations’,

lens to Life, Town & Country and Holiday, Aarons documented a pristine

as was she. They moved beyond whatever the momentary slump was

luxury that was available to none but a privileged few. Through charm and

and continued to make the good life look great well into the ’80s. Much

charisma, he became a trusted member of an inner circle that included

has changed of the world that Aarons knew, yet his work still strikes a

royals, socialites, the ultra famous and the ultra wealthy. Their trust was

cord. Perhaps that’s the draw. He lets us in to a gilded and nostalgic

built, in part, due to the widespread knowledge that Aarons would never

world that’s no longer there.

168

A rt is t in E x h i bit ion

UNTO L D S TOR I ES

Without hesitation, he embraces me. “I’m so delighted you were able to come,” he gushes. Born in Tehran in 1967, an 18-year-old Kohan was forced to flee his native country because of the armed conflict between

Los Angeles-based Iranian artist, Farzad Kohan, draws on his own experience of immigration, as well as that of others, in his latest body of thought-provoking artwork.

Iran and Iraq, which lasted from 1980 to 1988 and resulted in at least half a million casualties. “I was being drafted,” he reveals, “and I basically didn’t want to go to war. So, my family had me smuggled out of the country. I crossed borders illegally and ended up in Sweden, where I became a refugee.” Although he had a brother who was already living there, a vulnerable Kohan had no choice but to complete his “unexpected and crazy” odyssey alone. “I’m the only one from that group of people – there were about 19 of us escaping – who didn’t get caught.” In the early Nineties, Kohan moved to

It’s a relatively cool weekday evening during

California where he trained as a sculptor

Dubai Watch Week, and the city’s financial

and currently resides with his teenage

district, commonly known as DIFC, is

daughter. “I look at my daughter and other

humming with the soft murmur of curious

kids who are roughly the age I was when I left

watch connoisseurs, as well as the pitter-

Tehran,” he reveals, “and I think about what

patter of businessmen and women, who

I had to go through. I look at the differences

are roaming the dimly lit courtyards that

and how time has changed, particularly

are lined with art exhibits. It’s my first visit

because of technology.” He steadfastly

to Ayyam Gallery, which is renowned for

acknowledges, however, that modern-day

showcasing the best in Middle Eastern art,

migration, particularly in Europe and the

and I’m surprised when I locate it rather

Mediterranean, is proof that a refugee’s

quickly – my sense of direction usually

fortune has not improved. “It’s one of

abandons me in this part of town. Before

the main reasons why I started my latest

entering, I pause to examine the artwork

project,” he concedes, when discussing the

draped in the window. I had already seen

current crisis in Syria. “Migration has always

Farzad Kohan’s artwork online, but to see it

been a part of what I do because being a

in the flesh was something else altogether.

migrant dominates my life.”

Simple yet curiously complex swaths of

Kohan’s latest body of work, which is titled

canvas are weightily drenched in paint,

Migration Stories, tells the experiences of

which bleeds downward like mascara-

migrants who have resettled in the United

sodden tears. Kohan, dressed in a crisp

States or Europe. In some instances,

white shirt and jeans, is lounging in a

these stories are being told for the first

reclining chair at the gallery’s centre,

time. Kohan sourced these narratives using

surrounded by his own immersive creations.

social media, by asking friends, colleagues

I had spoken with him over the phone a

and acquaintances to summarise and share

week prior to our meeting. Based in Los

what defined the process of migration for

Angeles, he’s travelled to Dubai for the

them. “The entire thing [project] became

exhibition’s opening. His jovial smile is all-

a learning experience for me,” he reveals.

encompassing, stretching from ear to ear.

“You have to understand that not everyone

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is comfortable with sharing personal stories

Using a projector, Kohan carefully paints

and not everybody I spoke to had told their

the text onto the canvas, after accumulating

story before. They’d kept it a secret or had

countless thin layers of paint that weeps

only told a few people. Then I suddenly

into the canvas. Multigenerational and

show up and tell them I want to paint their

from diverse communities, his respondents

story. It’s intimidating.”

represent a cross-section of today’s ever-

Some of his subjects responded with partial

increasing migrant population, and through

memories of leaving home as children, while

Migration Stories they are able to disclose

others offered harrowing accounts of fleeing

their experiences without revealing their

due to political persecution or the outbreak

identities. The difficulties of assimilation

of war. “I spoke to this girl from Australia,”

are further characterised by Kohan’s use

he says. “She was a victim of domestic

of oil and water-based paints that separate

violence and that’s why she escaped. In

upon contact. He attempts to unify these

the end, what she escaped from killed her

two paints, an apt metaphor for a migrant’s

father. As a result, she became an advocate

struggle to integrate into broader society.

for people like herself.” Kohan’s optimism is

“I carry around their stories with me,” he

inspiring. “She went through a dark period,

admits. “These stories, they are not just

but she tur ned a negative story into a

paintings. They are somebody’s life. It’s

positive.” This is frequently portrayed in his

in front of me and I am responsible for

use of paint, which in several artworks starts

that, I’m responsible for bringing it out in

off ominously dark, before brightening. His

the best way I can.” The vertical folded

biographical portraits almost always explore

canvases feature delicate creases that give

themes like love. “Love is the only way of

the impression that the artwork is a lost

surviving the madness of this world,” he

letter that’s been shared in secret or tucked

sighs, “even though it’s cheesy, it’s reality.

away for safekeeping. The soft material was

It’s the only way the world is going to

additionally chosen for practical reasons;

become a better place.”

it’s flexible and easy to fold, which is

He continues, “The kind of love I’m talking

essential for a migrant’s lifestyle. “When

about happens through the act of migration.

you’re a refugee, you need to be able to

It’s about acceptance, going through

pack things up quickly so you’re able to

hardships, gaining ground, and then losing

flee or quickly move on.”

things. It’s a constant game of gaining and

The notion of home is instrumental to

losing, but in the end this is what keep us

Kohan’s artwork. “Home is important.

strong as individuals.” After all, “migration

We all want to lead a happy life, we all

is nothing new,” he points out. “It’s just

want stability. When you’re a migrant, all

the stories that are new. It used to be my

those things change, because home isn’t

story, now it’s your story, and one day, it’ll

your home anymore. The concept of home

be someone else’s story.” Encapsulating a

changes.” Kohan admits that he no longer

refugee’s tale in only a few words, however,

considers Tehran his home. His own family

proved to be difficult. “I asked them to send

is dispersed around the world, which is

me two or three short sentences and they’d

far from uncommon for migrants. H e

send me closer to half a page,” he laughs,

speaks English, albeit with a Farsi accent,

before becoming serious. “They told me, ‘I

and strongly identifies as American. But

can’t put my life into a sentence for you.’

for Kohan, home is not where you live,

You have to respect that about people.”

but where the heart is. His overriding

Kohan’s text-based paintings are written in

message is one of “peace and unity”, he

American typewriter, a font he specifically

concludes with an encouraging smile.

chose to represent his Californian identity.

“I’m all about bringing people together.”

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Behind The Scenes With Asmaa Al-Shabibi From hiking holidays to seeking inspiration in Dubaiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s creative quarters, we discover what makes the Lawrie Shabibi gallery co-owner tick.

Images courtesy of Asmaa Al-Shabibi

M OJEH w o man

Lawrie Shabibi Gallery, Alserkal

Asmaa Al-Shabibi

Source Of Inspiration: Interior, art and travel magazines. Walking around Alserkal Avenue and chatting to the gallerists and other shop owners | Ultimate Vacation: I love hiking and holidays that involve nature (one of my favourite holidays was a summer in Whistler), and anywhere in Asia, where you can’t beat the culture, food and wonderful scenery | December Destination: This Christmas, we are heading to Vietnam, which I can’t wait for | The Best Way To Work Out: I have a road bike and cycle in Al Qudra or Nad Al Sheba during the winter months. I love yoga, swimming and walking. I am so over exercise classes with loud music! | Favourite Book: Love in the Time of Cholera by Gabriel García Márquez. I have read it five times | Favourite Song: “I Wanna Be Your Lover” – Prince. Still so fresh after all those years | Cheat Meal: Burgers and fries and a chocolate milkshake | Dish To Cook: I love tarts of all kinds | Healthy Snack: My homemade granola with yoghurt | Natural Beauty Hack: Argan oil – I use it daily everywhere! | Skincare Solution: Kiehl’s Microdermabrasion Exfoliator | Lipstick Shade: MAC’s Russian Red | Travel Tip: Don’t eat aeroplane food! Take ziplock bags with lots of nuts, seeds and dark chocolate, and a few bottles of water | Best Way To Start The Day: A swim or yoga class in the garden | Biggest Achievement of 2016: Buying a home and renovating it | Sleep Early or Stay Out Late? Sleep early | The Best Advice: Don’t believe what they tell you on the news

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F i n al N ote

Stark Future Whether it’s through an ultramodern shade or a space-age silhouette, futuristic pieces will add fun and edge to your new year’s wardrobe. Pair visionary pieces with solid separates for a wearable style.

Photographed by Rhys Simpson-Hopkins, styled by Sophie Pasztor

Top to bottom: Bag, M2MALLETIER at Harvey Nichols-Dubai | shoe, MARNI | clutch, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN at Harvey Nichols-Dubai