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12 Chairman SHAHAB IZADPANAH
EDITORIAL
PUBLISHING
Editor in Chief MOJEH IZADPANAH
Publishing Director RADHIKA NATU
Associate Editor SHERI IZADPANAH
Senior Publishing Executive DESIREE LABANDA-GAVERIA
Managing Editor KELLY BALDWIN
Junior Publishing Assistant kisada hurin
Senior Fashion Writer Mary KeEnan
Paris Representative GHISLAIN DE CASTELBAJAC
Lifestyle Writers Laura Beaney Annie Darling
Advertising Inquiries Tel: +971 4 553 90 49 Email: advertising@mojeh.com
Senior Editorial Assistant Sophie pasztor
Subscription Tel: +971 4 553 90 49 Email: subs@mojeh.com
Guest Fashion Stylists Anna Klein Coline Peyrot Simona Melegari
Online Division ALI ROMAN Afreen Khwaja
MOJEH Men Group Peter Iantorno Dmitri Ruwan
LOUIS FOURTEEN FOR MOJEH Concierge Service Management daisy marchant
ART
Published under HS Media Group FZ LLC Registered at Dubai Design District Building No. 8, Offices 212 P.O.Box 502333, Dubai, UAE.
Producers Mojeh Magazine and LOUIS AGENCY Art Director AMIRREZA AMIRASLANI Graphic Designer Balaji Mahendran Contributing Photographers Chantelle Dosser Alexandre Felix Stefania Paparelli
Photographed by Stefania Paparelli, model wears dress by Attico and boots by Balenciaga
WWW.MOJEH.COM Louis Fourteen for MOJEH Follow us on Twitter @MOJEH_Magazine MOJEH Swiss Representative Office: Rue de Rive 4, 1204 Geneva, Switzerland Average qualified circulation (January-June 2016): 12,275 copies. For the UAE printed by Emirates Printing Press LLC. Distribution- UAE: Al Nisr Distribution LLC. Qatar: Dar Al Sharq. Bahrain: Jashanmal & Sons BSC (C). Oman: United Media Services LLC. Lebanon: Messageries Du Moyen-Orient The publishers regret that they cannot accept liability for error or omissions contained in this publication, however caused. The opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessary those of the publishers. Readers are advised to seek specialist advice before acting on information contained in this publication which is provided for general use and may not be appropriate for the readers particular circumstances. The ownership of trademark is acknowledged, therefore reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. All credits are subjects to change. Copyright HS MEDIA GROUP FZ LLC 2011
14
M o j eh C o ntent s
MOJEH Fashion 34. Old Masters, Modern Moments Known for their intense interaction with the arts, as Jeff Koons becomes their latest contributor, we celebrate Louis Vuitton’s seminal creative collaborations.
48. Swim Season Setting the pace for a season of poolside splendour, MOJEH looks into the lens of luxury swimwear and its transformative virtues.
58. Sophisticated Sensibilities Australian designer Dion Lee speaks to MOJEH about summer dressing, seasonless collections and an unexpected colour palette for summer.
Accessories
Society
108. An Assortment of Splendours
28. No Boys Allowed
We g a i n a c c e s s t o C h i n a ’s F o r b i d d e n C i t y
Populating wellness, business and the social sectors,
w h e re P a r i s i a n j e w e l l e r s C h a u m e t p re s e n t
are the increasing number of female-only spaces a
Imperial Splendours: the art of jewellery since
step towards progression or a glance back to the
t h e 18t h c e n t u ry.
gentlemen’s clubs of old?
113. Rocky Road
44. Born to Run
The raw appeal of irregular gems command our
Pounding the streets and elevating gender
attention as summer’s significant pieces come in
expectations, MOJEH meets with the Jeddah
the form of handcrafted and unpolished pieces that
Running Club to discover how its female runners
exude natural allure.
are reclaiming their streets.
Photoshoots 66. Prophetic Truth Alluding to the graceful movement of Japanese minimalism, inflamed structures and purposeful folds form the shapes of the season.
82. Conquering Perfection In its latest incarnation, sports lux champions patterns from cross-cultural reference points. Elevated style elements with micro pleats and structural tailoring become its mainstays.
96. First Impressions Taking on a bold and graphic guise, this season’s beauty becomes a statement of power when paired with geometric prints and a palette of primary colours.
Health & Beauty 116. Gut Instinct
130. Summertime Scents
It’s becoming increasingly apparent that the gut is a
A time to refresh our fragrance rituals and lift the senses
major player in our overall health. Here, the experts
with the season’s lighter aromatic offerings, MOJEH
outline the best practices to cultivate your inner-flora.
names the high-notes for the summer months.
126. Stretching The Truth
136. Minimalist Mode
With the proliferation of yoga, stretching is regarded
Rebuking the call of the consumption-driven world,
as one of the best ways to ease tension, but how
we discover the physical and emotional benefits
beneficial is it? MOJEH investigates.
of a pared-back life.
16
E d i t o r ’s L ette r
The Wealth in Wellbeing This month we turn our attentions to health and wellbeing, a worthy cause to focus our efforts on for the holy month of Ramadan. In a natural slow-down and step back, we allow ourselves the time needed to evaluate the things that make us happiest, and those that don’t. Alluding to our cover title, it’s about conquering the perfection found in a healthy state of mind and balanced lifestyle – an internal beauty and not just an external one. If you critically evaluated all of your possessions, which would you ultimately need? In Minimalist Mode, see if you can be coaxed towards the Japanese way of living, in which de-cluttering is said to be empowering. Gut Instinct shines a light on how important good gut health really is and looks at achievable ways to maintain a steady equilibrium. In prepping for summer, we look at the rise in swimwear as more than just a poolside accessory and instead a lifestyle element that encourages outside and water born activities. Similarily, in Born To Run, we question how a seemingly simple running club is in fact inspiring societal change. And of course June, signals the start of the summer months, calling for change in beauty regimes. Check out our trend pages and pick your colour, but not before deciding which new and advanced skin treatment you’ll dare to try (if any). In First Impressions, we take an artists’ standpoint on developing your beauty oeuvre.
Follow me on Twitter and Instagram @Mojeh_I and write to me at editor@mojeh.com
Mojeh Izadpanah Editor in Chief
ANDREEA DIACONU BY TERRY RICHARDSON – MESSIKA.COM
GLAM’AZONE COLLECTION
18
E d i t o r ’s SN A P SHOT s
Refined Retreat
6&7
1&2
3
4&5
Rediscover a blissful existence this month, rebalancing your mind, body and soul through pure indulgence. Nourish your skin with Aesop’s Oil Free Facial Hydrating Serum and create a well-balanced complexion with Elizabeth Arden’s Advanced Ceramide Serum. Maintain calm composure through a simplistic wardrobe of relaxed silhouettes and a trail of opulent silks in silvery hues. 1. CHARLOTTE OLYMPIA | 2. GLASSING | 3. CHANEL | 4. BOTTEGA VENETA | 5. Advanced Ceramide Capsules Daily Youth Restoring Serum, ELIZABETH ARDEN | 6. Liquid Lip Velvet Light Nude No. 01, BURBERRY | 7. Oil Free Facial Hydrating Serum, AESOP | 8. AUDEMARS PIGUET | 9. 5 Couleurs High Fidelity Colours & Effects Eyeshadow Palette, CHRISTIAN DIOR | 10. ATTICO
8
9
10
20
B e a u ty N ote
Tea Time Treat your skin to a caffeine hit with Dior’s highly concentrated White Tea Leaf cleanser devised to deeply purify and refresh the skin. Follow with Chanel’s La Solution 10 De Chanel, formulated with the rare and precious Silver
Lait De Beauté, Cleansing Milk, GUERLAIN | Dior Hydra Life, Lotion To Foam Fresh Cleanser, CHRISTIAN DIOR | La Solution 10 De Chanel, Sensitive Skin Cream, CHANEL
Photographed by Borna Ahadi, styled by Sophie Pasztor
Needle Tea developed to shield and protect sensitive skin.
22
B e a u ty S ec r et s
Defining Decadence Brazilian model and the face of Marc Jacobs’s Divine Decadence fragrance, Adriana Lima shares her hair, health and beauty secrets.
Iconic model Adriana Lima believes in an organic regime, plenty of water and daily exercise
I use coconut oil and almond oil to keep my skin and hair smooth. I drink a lot of water and use water mists to stay moisturised throughout the day. How does the perfume make you feel when you are wearing it? Divine Decadence is a lighter version of the original Decadence. It’s very exotic and luxurious, and I feel very feminine wearing it. This fragrance always makes you feel sensual, no matter what you are wearing or where you are. What is your best beauty secret? I use oils to make my skin glow. How do you keep your hair healthy? I love hair masks – they really make your hair shiny and smooth. I leave them in for 10 If you could describe Divine Decadence in
Decadence Signature symbolises luxury
minutes at least once a week to keep my hair
three words, what would they be?
and self-indulgence. What do you do to
healthy. Sometimes, I make hair masks at home
Glamorous, sensual, feminine.
treat yourself?
by mixing a mashed avocado with conditioner
I believe all women must treat themselves. I like
– it’s something many Brazilian women use.
What type of woman would wear it?
to indulge by having a spa day, eating caviar,
Sophisticated women of all ages.
and spritzing on a little Divine Decadence.
How would describe your style?
Tell us about your beauty regimen – how do
I exercise every day and bring my jump rope,
Glamorous. I admire Sophia Loren, Marilyn
you take care of your skin daily?
boxing gloves, and running shoes with me
Monroe and Ava Gardner – they are all very
I use creams by my facialist, Hervé Hérau. I
everywhere I go. It’s not about how long you
glamorous. I take inspiration from them in my
carry his products with me wherever I go, and
work out for, it’s just important to get your blood
life and job. I like to dress up, do my makeup,
when I wake up, I use his mask, face wash, and
flowing as much as possible. Even if I only get
and be feminine yet strong.
top cream. All of his products are organic, too. I
to work out for 10 minutes, it’s better than not
also drink a lot of water and exercise daily – it’s
working out at all.
You have one of the best bodies in the
Why does Divine Decadence suit your
very important to sweat a little bit, because it
personality?
opens up your pores and makes your skin glow.
It’s very feminine yet classic, with a touch of
What kind of workout do you prefer? I love boxing. I have been doing it for 10 years
glamour and playfulness. I like to think that I
How do you prepare your skin before a
and it gives me a healthy and strong body,
possess those qualities.
big event?
since it is a very intense workout.
Photographed by Randy Shropshire at Getty
industry – how do you stay in shape?
Up Your G
a
m
e
The notable rise in athleisure has transported itself to the world of horology, resulting in an array of new sporty timepieces on offer. Whether you prefer a diamond bezel for a serve of on-court luxe or a serviceable novelty piece fitted with state-of-theart features, incorporating a timepiece into your
Photographed by Borna Ahadi, styled by Sophie Pasztor
everyday sporting wardrobe has never been easier.
Top to bottom: Happy Sport 36mm quartz watch with interchangeable straps made with stainless steel and diamonds, CHOPARD | Aquaracer Lady 300m 35mm quartz watch with a two-row diamond bezel, TAG HEUER | Royal Oak Offshore Diver with stainless steel case and MĂŠga Tapisserie checkerboard patterned dial with yellow rubber strap, AUDEMARS PIGUET | Dior VIII Montaigne Seasonal Edition watch, DIOR | Night watch with an automatic reverse oscillating weight set with 60 amethysts totalling 0.2 carats and a dark purple galuchat strap, DE GRISOGONO | J12 GMT Black Matte, CHANEL
24
S t yl e N ote
Denim Dream Jeans are the casual wardrobe staple that forms the base of our model-off-duty style. This season denim is reimagined with innovative designs, adorning shoes and sculpting bags. Look to embroidered details for an added artisanal element that offers a jovial touch to your daywear.
Photographed by Borna Ahadi, styled by Sophie Pasztor
Clockwise from top: FENDI | ELISABETTA FRANCHI @themodist | TABITHA SIMMONS @themodist | GIANVITO ROSSI at Level Shoes | JIMMY CHOO
26
F A SHION IN F O C US
1
8
2
7
High Octane Hit the refresh button on your athleisure by peppering energising pops of colour throughout your collection. Items such as Chanel’s statement earrings provide a luxe addition to other casual separates such as Gucci’s Jersey Stirrup Leggings.
6
1. DKNY | 2. GUCCI @mytheresa | 3. CHANEL | 4. PINKO | 5. FENDI | 6. FABERGÉ | 7. PRADA | 8. DIOR
4
5
Compiled by Sophie Pasztor
3
7 1
2 6
In Transit Robe dresses and wide leg trousers are the perfect comfort staples for your next jaunt. Look to rich fabrics such as velvet and silk that work to elevate relaxed shapes offering both style and practicality. 1. ALBERTA FERRETTI | 2. PINKO | 3. VINITA MICHAEL | 4. ATTICO | 5. FENDI | 6. MATICEVSKI | 7. CHANEL
4 3 5
28
Tal k ing P o i nt
No Boys Allowed The number of female-only clubs, workspaces and groups are growing by the month as women find empowerment, comfort and strength in each other’s company. We take a look at the spaces in which men are the final taboo.
Words by Natalie Trevis
We’re all feminists now. Who doesn’t
from meeting to meeting, The Wing has an
perspectives that prevent women from
believe in gender equality and equal
open-plan workspace, meeting rooms, an
reaching their full potential. “As a council,
pay for equal work, an end to everyday
all-female library (cosy up with a copy of
we understand the significance of giving
sexism, greater protection of women’s
Are Men Obsolete?), a beauty area and
women a space of their own, free from the
rights and a girl’s right to education? We’ve
lactation room. Bringing together a group
gender bias that exists in society and wider
marched and petitioned, we’ve shared and
of educated, opinionated women in this
business community so they are inspired
retweeted. We’ve even bought the T-shirt
way galvanises a hugely positive strain
to thrive,” says Nadine Halabi, business
- a tough sartorial choice between Dior’s
of female activism, which is encouraged
development manager at DBWC. “We aim
Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie-inspired ‘We
by the ethos of the club. This is a space
to give women a community to be part
Should All Be Feminists’ and Jonathan
where big ideas can flourish in harmony
of by highlighting important issues and
Simkhai’s ‘Feminist AF’. As the message
with a makeup touch up and blow-dry
shining the spotlight on potential solutions.”
gains traction in the wider world one slogan
before that 2pm meeting in Manhattan. “I
Women-only spaces offer a respite from
tee at a time, the number of women-only
think women-only spaces and groups are
dealing with the stereotypes of women in
spaces being carved out in workplaces,
on the rise because it’s easier for us to
power, especially those in male-dominated
gyms and clubs also rises exponentially –
connect with like-minded women who we
industries: “ice-queen, single and lonely,
safe havens away from all the striving and
share a commonality with,” says London-
tough, masculine, conniving, emotional,
strategising where women can talk, play,
based psychotherapist and spiritual life
aggressive and unlikeable” are just some
indulge or simply think, maybe all at once.
coach Aimee Leigh. “Women have a very
of the outdated perceptions and labels
The Wing in NYC, founded by public
different mentality to men, and can relate
placed on women in senior positions.
relations powerhouse Audrey Gelman and
to each other far better. This especially
“Ideals for women in this region are largely
entrepreneur Lauren Kassan is a workspace
helps when trying to learn something new
influenced by tradition and culture – they
and social club leading the charge on the
or advance in some way. When women
aren’t necessarily conducive to best
women-only scene, with 600 members
get together the emotional support is
business practice,” says Halabi. DBWC
(another 2,300 on the waiting list) and
infectious and energising.”
addresses these challenges by engaging
major plans for expansion into two further
Aside from providing a platform for social
the community in a forward-thinking
locations. Designed as “a home base…
activism - The Wing works with the
dialogue, and is keen to stress that the
an off-line destination for women to build
Lower Eastside Girls’ Club and offers
inclusion of men on the journey towards
essential relationships, hatch plans and you
talks and workshops with the likes of
gender balance is essential. “It is only when
know…run the world, together,” the club’s
Planned Parenthood and the New York
we place equal value on the contributions
members are a who’s who of millennial
Civil Liberties Union - one of the recurring
and ideas of both women and men that
influencers, including Gelman’s long-time
messages of women-only spaces is that
we will live in a world where everybody -
friend Lena Dunham (Gelman is the real-
instead of elbowing each other off the
regardless of gender - is empowered to
life inspiration for Girls character Marnie),
corporate ladder in a stiletto-clad scramble
shape their destiny.”
Leandra Medine (of Man Repeller notoriety),
to break the glass ceiling, our time could
Yet, in the current gig economy where we
Jenna Lyons, Hari Nef and rapper Remy
be better spent in cross-sector pollination
can expect to conjure up multiple career
Ma, as well as congresswomen and VIPs
and networking with other women. It is
paths before we hit our thirties, it has never
from the worlds of academia, business
in this vein that the Dubai Business
been more important to connect with
and medicine. Conceived as a home from
Women Council in the UAE aims to drive a
diverse women from other industries, walks
home for the complex New Yorker running
dialogue challenging some of the outdated
of life and with alternative perspectives.
Ties That Bind, photographed by Julien Vallon, MOJEH Issue 29
What’s more, the ego-free space of femaleonly communities can make them the ideal place in which to find a mentor, a future boss, a client or a confidant. Other spaces take a more holistic approach. Grace Belgravia in London is a health, wellbeing and lifestyle club for women, built on the philosophy that in order to thrive in today’s society women need to invest in their greatest asset: their health. “Members of Grace use the club as a sanctuary, a place to escape the buzz of the outside world,” says CEO Kate Percival. “A lot of women join because they spend their lives multitasking, putting family and work before their own health, which isn’t sustainable. It’s vital that everyone has a place they can escape to and Grace provides that; offering a chance to prioritise wellbeing and recalibrate.” Food, spa treatments and expert medical care, all tailored to focus on the wellness aspect, make this club a haven of relaxation, where any networking undertaken is merely a by-product of the main goal of escapism. “Throughout the year we see a number of women from across the UAE taking advantage of our summer and overseas memberships,” says Percival, “highlighting the importance women place on having a home away from home that reflects their values.” While the notion of women’s clubs isn’t new – the still flourishing University Women’s Club in London was founded in 1886 by a group of women who had studied at university (but at that time were not allowed to graduate) – they are no longer restricted to women of society, university sororities or other pre-existing communities. Instead, they are built on a modern-day desire to counteract our nomadic lifestyles and online avatars by staying connected in real life. Meeting and supporting one another
to the existence and intention of WMN
have a very different mentality to women
in an authentic community is a means of
SPACE that supports the rise in feminine
when it comes to mountain biking, they
self-care. Women-only communities, with
consciousness that is shifting on the
can be more aggressive and impatient in
their open-minded approach to our many
planet.” A growing number of women are
their riding, women turn to female-only
and varied differences, satisfy this need.
seeking out this healing connection outside
groups to develop the skills and confidence
“We as women need and want a space to
the confines of a club membership or the
slowly, and with gentle, encouraging non-
connect and reside in community,” says
physical space of a shared workstation and
judgmental support. It’s a place we don’t
Paula Mallis, who is a doula, facilitator
instead in a simple shared interest, sport
have to apologise for being girly, slower,
of women’s circles and founder of WMN
or idea. “My cycling group for women is a
less confident, less aggressive. We just
SPACE in LA. “WMN SPACE is not a club.
safe space for us to build confidence in a
embrace and support each other for being
It is a conscious space that is open to
very male-dominated sport,” says Aimee
exactly where we are.”
all women or anyone who identifies as
Leigh of her all-female mountain biking
So far, so supportive. But in seeking out
a woman. There is a deeper meaning
group. “As the trails are still full of men who
these female-friendly men-free spaces
30 could we be accused of missing out on something vital? Of perpetuating a
Inside Grace Belgravia’s women’s club
simplistic Men Are From Mars, Women Are From Venus attitude that exacerbates a them-and-us mentality and allows us to hide from the challenges of creating true societal equality? “Gathering and supporting women in a safe and sacred space is not excluding men,” assures Mallis. “The work that’s happening at WMN SPACE is about empowering women from a place of love that encourages a ripple effect in all aspects of their lives, including our relationships with men.” Indeed it’s possible to define the recent formalisation of the types of communities that have always
Audrey Gelman co-founder of The Wing
Beauty room at The Wing
existed among women – particularly in the gulf nations – simply as a symbol of female empowerment that makes no judgement on men. “There’s been a paradigm shift which means that increasingly women are seeking out other women’s company,” says Percival. “Not that they don’t love their husbands and partners, but sometimes women need space to grow in strength and develop their voice away from what is often a male-dominated society…We are catering to that unique bond between women and fostering deeper connections. Similarly, gentlemen’s clubs have existed for a long time without standing in the way of equality. So long as these institutions promote positive ideas and progressive
Names To Know
thinking it can be a healthy environment.” Women
are
craving
community,
connection and confidence, and they are looking to their own gender to provide it. Trying to keep our heads above water in juggling careers, relationships, children and social lives leaves us yearning for an oasis, a place where the male gaze is absent, bro-centric notions of competitiveness are left at the door and we can simply ‘be’. “Women will always need men, men will always need women,” explains Aimee Leigh. “I think the age of misunderstood feminism is ending and women are now seeing their true strength is actually in their femininity, and doesn’t come from trying to act like, or compete with men. If we understand this, then our femininity becomes a celebration, as does men’s unique masculinity.” Reclaiming a space of our own – a gym, a society, a workspace or simply a book club - where we can take care of our bodies, foster our ambitions, catch up with friends or plan a revolution, sounds like another step on the path towards equality. We need to walk it, even if it means no boys allowed.
The place: Grace Belgravia, London Known for: A spa, gym and club with a focus on wellbeing, relaxation and healthy eating. Crowd: Knightsbridge fitspo squad and jet-setting internationals. www.gracebelgravia.com The woman: Audrey Gelman Known for: Co-founder of The Wing. Named by Forbes as one of its 30 Under 30: Corporate Climbers in 2014, Gelman worked as a press aide for Hillary Clinton’s campaign for president in 2008, launched an advocacy organisation and headed millennial strategy for strategic consulting firm SKDKnickerbocker. She is married to RapGenius co-founder Ilan Zechory. She says: “Being a girl is no longer politically neutral. Your identity, whether you like it or not, is now political.” The club: The Wing, New York City Known for: Workspace, meeting hub, café, beauty room and members’ club boasting home comforts and a platform for social activism. Described as being “like a conch shell with Wi-Fi.” Crowd: US power players from all walks of life, its relatively affordable membership fees means that it has a huge waiting list and attracts a diverse range of intellectuals. www.the-wing.com The gym: Exhale Fitness Studio, JBR, Dubai Marina Known for: Pilates, yoga and personal fitness in a comfortable studio with welcoming instructors. Crowd: Unpretentious yoga pack seeking unity between mind, body and spirit. www.exhaledubai.com The hotel: Dukes Dubai, Palm Jumeirah Known for: The Duchess Floor, an entire floor of 20 suites and public spaces dedicated to women, decorated with Liberty London Fabrics. Inspired by the experiences of Debrah Dhugg, managing director for Dukes Collection in travelling alone for business. Crowd: Elegant entrepreneurs taking afternoon tea in the Champagne and Tea Lounge inbetween meetings. www.dukesdubai.com
Photographed by Borna Ahadi, styled by Sophie Pasztor
Summer Brights Select colours that complement the warm summer weather with bright shades of azure, plum and rose. Take your cue from Opening Ceremony and Creatures of Comfort who painted their models’ nails with a plethora of lively hues during their spring/summer17 shows. Clockwise from top: Night Out Hardening Base, NARS | 008 Denim Jacket, GUERLAIN | Batignolles Pops, CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN | 534 Espadrilles, CHANEL | 14 Scarlet Chinois, TOM FORD | Hardening Base Nail Polish in Farah, QTICKLES
32
J un e N ew s
Fashion’s hallowed archives open up in a series of retrospectives from Balenciaga’s brilliance to the unchartered terrain of Anna Sui while we take a fond glance back to Louis Vuitton’s 2018 cruise collection, held at Kyoto’s Miho Museum. Entering into a summer of style, MOJEH names culture’s haute highlights this June.
The World of Anna Sui May 26 – October 1 In the first ever retrospective exhibition of an American fashion designer to be held in the UK, Anna Sui describes the set-up as an “optimistic, inspirational, fun, eclectic, celebratory” exhibition that will host over 100 looks from her archive. The event will showcase her inimitable creative process, personal inspirations and subsequent influence on American pop culture over the last 20 years. The Fashion and Textile Museum, London, UK
Helmut Newton expressed his desire to provide a forum not just for his own works, but for those of other photographers. His wish continues to be fulfilled posthumously, with two unique projects by two of Newton’s friends and contemporaries. Undressed by Mario Testino draws together fashion, a measure of skin and unpublished studio portraits while Pool Party by photographer and art collector, Jean Pigozzi is presented in June Newton’s Room. This installation includes snapshots taken around Pigozzi’s pool in Cap d’Antibes, where Newton and June spent their summers surrounded by the likes of Mick Jagger, Naomi Campbell and Liz Taylor. Helmut Newton Foundation, Berlin, Germany
Images courtesy of Anna Sui, Victoria & Albert Museum, Louis Vuitton, Helmut Newton Foundation and Fondazione Prada
Culture Coming
Mario Testino. Undressed/ Helmut Newton. Unseen Jean Pigozzi. Pool Party June 3 – November 19
TV 70: Francesco Vezzoli guarda la Rai May 9 – September 24 A project conceived by artist Francesco Vezzoli and developed in collaboration with Rai, Italy’s national broadcasting company, Italian public TV is interpreted by the artist as a driving force for social and political change. Italy’s transition from the radicalness of the 1960s to the hedonism of the 1980s is captured and complemented by an illustrated publication edited by Fondazione Prada that will include essays by international art critics, theorists, scholars and television professionals. Fondazione Prada, Milan, Italy
Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion May 27 – February 18, 2018 Celebrating the 100th anniversary of the fashion house, the V&A present this debut exhibition dedicated to the revolutionary Spanish couturier, Cristóbal Balenciaga. The retrospective will feature over 100 garments as well as 20 hats crafted by the couturier and his successors while sketches, photographs and fabrics highlight the designer’s seminal skills and unique contributions that mark Balenciaga out as one of fashion’s greatest success stories. Victoria & Albert Museum, London, UK
Louis Vuitton Cruise Collection 2018 The spirit of travel and the discovery of extraordinary environments are deeply ingrained within Louis Vuitton’s linage. This was none more apparent than on 14th May when the house’s cruise collection show came to life at the Miho museum in Kyoto, a space designed by I.M. Pei, the architect of the Grand Louvre and its pyramids, a setting as famed for its place amongst the striking Shigaraki mountains as it is for its collection of Japanese antiquities. Revealing one of Ghesquière’s most confronting collections, future-facing designs included dynamic prints, and Kansaï Yamamoto-inspired bags monogrammed bags. Miho Museum, Kyoto, Japan
Images courtesy of Louis Vuitton
34 M OJEH Fa s h io n
Louis Vuitton has played a long and instrumental role in connecting fashion and the arts through collaborations with the likes of Cindy Sherman, Takashi Murakami and most recently Jeff Koons
Old Masters, Modern Moments As Jeff Koons becomes the latest name to join Louis Vuitton’s legacy of leading artist collaborators, we celebrate the influential interaction between the fashion house and its crucial, creative relationships.
Fashion and art have long endured an intense relationship. Indeed, fashion’s most prized possession, Haute Couture, is regarded as an art form. Seminal pairings span from the likes of Elsa Schiaparelli and Salvador Dalí to Jackson Pollock and Cecil Beaton, but one of its greatest love stories continues to unfold. Louis Vuitton’s involvement with the arts is as old as the house. It makes sense if you consider that its founder was the first to take in Monet’s Impression: Sunrise back in 1874 and the birth of high fashion just so happened to coincide with the 20s avant-garde art movement. During this time Louis Vuitton’s grandson, the visionary, Gaston-Louis Vuitton, who was a noted collector of artworks, would invite artists to work on the displays for his store windows, proposing suggestions from a graphic and geometric standpoint that still feel relevant today. The last two decades have seen Louis Vuitton’s intimate connection with the Arts solidify. Devised at the initiative of Bernard Arnault by Frank Gehry, the Fondation Louis Vuitton aims to make French and international contemporary artistic creations accessible to as many people as possible, while recent campaigns for the brand have seen aspiring young creatives such as 23-year-old student Juliet Casella take the helm with her surrealist collages for the cruise16 and spring/summer17 collections. Other notable interactions have come from the many artists that the House have enlisted to transform their designs. Proposing a punk aesthetic, Stephen Sprouse’s day-glo graffiti prints captivated fashion editors during the 80s. Although his initial collections were critical hits, Sprouse surprisingly declared bankruptcy in 1985. Having played an important role in the art/fashion crossover, he was later called upon by Louis Vuitton’s then-artistic director, Marc Jacobs, in a revolutionary move that allowed the artist to re-envision the fashion house’s hallowed LV monogram. Today, Jeff Koons reconfigures the LV monogram to his own avail, reading ‘JK’; it’s an equally groundbreaking adaptation. Known for his penchant for appropriation, Koons draws upon imagery from his long-standing ‘Gazing Ball’ paintings - a series of large-scale hand-painted reproductions of works by the Old Masters that now reappear on a range of Louis Vuitton products. His recreations come from the seminal works of Da Vinci, Titian, Rubens, Fragonard and Van Gogh and have been transposed on to iconic Louis Vuitton pieces such as the Speedy, the Keepall and the Neverfull. Looking to these artists in particular, Koons believes the bags place the artist within a chain of influence and inspiration that runs through the history of Western art. Van Gogh loved Gauguin and the Dutch Old Masters drew inspiration from Rubens. Now, by re-presenting these celebrated pieces on Louis Vuitton bags, Koons once again invites viewers to consider these works anew. “The idea of being able to have appreciation for things that came before us, for things outside the self – that lets us have transcendence,” says Koons. “These artists are making reference to other artists…it’s a form of love.” Koons joins the long linage of Louis Vuitton artists that have also included the likes of Richard Price, Yayoi Kusama, and Cindy Sherman. We now have the opportunity to buy into a piece of some of the most important artists of our times. This collaboration is more than just a fleeting reference to the creative sphere, it’s art in its entirety.
36
Rubens’ Tiger, Lion and the Leopard Hunt (1616) gains new appreciation reworked upon Louis Vuitton’s Neverfull, Zippy, Keepall and Palm Springs backpack amongst other incarnations
38
S o c i ety Wo m en
P atrons of the
MOJEH speaks with Dima Abdul Kader and Nikki Meftah, the creative minds behind the Emergeast, working to shine a digital light on regional art.
Interviewed by Sophie Pasztor
When did your fascination with art begin?
chance to feel the same exhilarating experience.
Dima: My art journey began straight out of
Nikki: It was a large scale polaroid from a dear
university where I turned to painting and
friend and magnificent photographer, Cyrus
appreciating contemporary artists of our time. I
Mahboubian. Much thought went into the
felt through creative expression and discourse
subject, composition and lighting of each of his
a number of social, political and emotional
photographs. It was at a time when polaroid
themes can be discussed and embraced at
film was becoming extinct and each shot held
length in inventive ways – a route that I felt very
a distinctive weight. The artwork I purchased
comfortable with and connected to as a person.
was one of a young girl in a long white dress,
Nikki: I have always been surrounded by art.
leaning against a mailbox in New York City. To
Before they met, both my parents lived in many
me, the work represents independence, strength
different countries and one keepsake they always
and individuality.
moved with them was a piece of art. Growing up, they focused on Iranian collections, books
The Emergeast is for young collectors who
and collector’s items. My concrete fascination
are looking for regional artists and want
began when I saw the ‘Woman of Allah’ series by
to view pieces on a digital platform, how
Shirin Neshat. Like Shirin, I wanted to somehow
did it form?
propagate Iranian culture and heritage to an
Dima: As young urban professionals in our
international audience.
early 20s, we wanted to start our very own art collection, specifically of pieces tied to our roots,
What was the first piece of art you purchased?
culture, history and background. However, as
Dima: It was during the time I was living in
soon as we embarked on the prospect of this,
London and stumbled upon an affordable art
we realised there was no immediate place to
gallery and happened to connect with a French
acquire art by Middle Eastern artists particularly
artist duo who used metal scraps from billboards
at prices a 20-something urbanite can afford.
found around France. Upon acquiring the artwork
Nikki: Many of our friends would ask us both
I immediately felt like I bought a piece of the
where to purchase an affordable artwork, or
artist’s story and message and realised how easy
to send them pictures when we were visiting
it was to collect art. The significance behind this
the Middle East given that there were no
experience inspired the inception of Emergeast,
accessible platforms for Middle Eastern art,
as I aimed to give young/first time collectors the
so one day over coffee the idea was born.
Nikki and Dima photographed by Julia at The Factory ME in front of works by Elham Etemadi Nikki wears Gucci top and Céline skirt, Dima wears Céline top and stylist’s own trousers
As young urban professionals in our early 20s, we wanted to start our very own art collection, specifically of pieces tied to our roots, culture, history and background.
40 Dima Abdul Kader
What do you look for when sourcing art? Dima: First and foremost, upon coming across a potential artist’s portfolio, the team (selections committee) is required to believe in the artist’s
Dima’s Summer Wardrobe Picks
works and cultivate a connection with their story and message. We require that an artist exhibit determination in sustaining their production and evolving their art. As we promise our young collectors affordable yet ‘wise investment’ artworks, we thoroughly screen an artist’s CV to assure notable solo and group exhibitions, along with future exhibiting plans. What common threads to you see in the works of Middle Eastern artists? Dima: We definitely see themes and dialogues in our artists’ works that are direct reflections of their surroundings. Artists from the region now take to their canvas to navigate from a dire status quo and live vicariously through a utopia created by their brushstroke. Nikki: Middle Eastern artists definitely offer perspective and food for thought to an international stage. We’ve seen an increasing number of western buyers interested in learning about the Middle East through these artists: political and social themes are strongly recognised in a lot of their work. Having said this, many artists also chose to tell their own narrative through their work and this might offer a more personal connection with a viewer from a similar What are the benefits of a digital platform
background. For example, we had a couple from
rather than the traditional method of a
New York who connected instantly with a Syrian
physical gallery?
artist’s work ‘Lover’s Journey’ which created a
Dima: We know how intimidating it can be for
cross-cultural dialogue between the two and
a first time collector to visit a gallery and inquire
really cemented the ethos of our initiative.
about the art. The advantage of an online gallery allows new collectors to read, browse and ask
Who are your personal favourites?
Emergeast consultants questions comfortably
Dima: My inspirations have been the
and at their own leisure – allowing for a more
contemporary masters of our modern era - I
enriching, educational experience.
am moved by the colour palette of Willem de
Nikki: It also gives us the chance to reach
Kooning and the subject matter of Jean Michel
a wider international audience who are not
Basquiat. It’s with these inspirations I am drawn
necessarily aware of the region’s talent.
towards today’s Middle Eastern artists’ works.
Technology is powering the volume of interest,
we find many of our artists are sometimes
which is why we set up the first online gallery
inspired by the Western art landscape,
in the Middle East dedicated to inspiring artists
where the likes of Frida Kahlo and Willem
and aspiring collectors.
de Kooning have served almost as ‘heroes’
Top to bottom: LOUIS VUITTON | GUCCI | ELLERY @netaporter | ATTICO @netaporter | JIMMY CHOO
Nikki Meftah
NIKKI’s
and inspiration for their artistic production.
Summer Wardrobe Picks
thinking and that convey powerful messages
Nikki: I am drawn to artists that allow critical such as Parviz Tanavoli’s ‘Heech’, a work which has come to represent questions of spirituality and existentialism. I am also a huge fan of Ali Banisadr, a raw and emotional depiction of the Iran/Iraq war with beautiful use of colour. I love Diana Al-Hadid’s sculptures, which take towers as a central theme to represent urban development, power and globalism. What genres are you drawn to? Dima: Currently, I am drawn to digital and video art and will be keeping an eye on this medium due to the limitless ways artists can express their imagination and inspirations through the use of digital tools. I do believe this genre will be the new oil on canvas’ of our time where artists’ portrayals of their subject matter will witness new depths and possibilities. Nikki: Abstract expressionism as it gives room for the viewer to create their own interpretation of a painting. Art creates dialogue and it is always interesting to see different perspectives. I am also drawn to analogue photography. The rawness and the unique component each photograph possesses is something I value, especially in our digitised time. What would be your tips for new collectors breaking into the Middle Eastern art scene?
handed down for generations so make sure you
Dima: We would say that it’s no hard task! It
love it before anything.
should be an enjoyable process, so take your
Top to bottom: GIVENCHY | DIOR | 3.1 PHILLIP LIM @netaporter | SAINT LAURENT | BOTTEGA VENETA
time and find out which taste or art style speaks
What has been the most rewarding part of
to you the most. We advise the aspiring collector
your careers?
to read about the artist’s story or particular
Dima: Beyond promoting our artists’ messages,
artwork’s representation and significance in order
it’s been witnessing first time collectors get the
to develop that relationship. We also recommend
bug and desire to learn about the themes and
a thorough read of the artist’s CV on our website,
messages behind pieces which ultimately end
as this usually explains the price tag on the work.
up on their walls.
But most importantly, listen to what your eyes
Nikki: Having a direct impact on our artist’s
rest on, as there is nothing more beautiful than
careers and seeing their development as a
the moment a connection is born between the
result of our efforts is definitely very satisfying.
artwork and its viewer.
A large portion of out time goes into discovering
Nikki: It is important to fall in love with the work
artists and pushing them to the forefront; being
before purchasing it. Your collection is a reflection
part of their journey and witnessing their growth
of your identity, a little piece of you that will be
is a great feeling.
42
60 seconds on beauty: Beauty secret. Dima: Rose water as a toner Nikki: Coconut oil Favourite beauty brand. Nikki: Nars Dima: SK-II Statement eyes or lips. Nikki: Eyes Dima: Lips for sure Hair product of choice. Nikki: Ouai spray Dima: Any L’oreal serum Favourite workout. Nikki: Barry’s Bootcamp and yoga Dima: Yoga Supplements. Nikki: Magnesium and melatonin for my sleep deficiency Dima: Zinc three times a week Natural remedies to swear by. Dima: Cinnamon, honey and lemon with my tea Nikki: Fresh ginger tea
The Emergeast’s Artists to Watch Dima and Nikki sitting in front of works by Pegah Lari Dima wears Gucci blazer, Céline earrings and stylist’s own camisole and J Brand jeans, Nikki wears stylist’s own top and jeans
Artist: Anas Homsi Snapshot: His textured brushstroke and layered works create emotional and poignant portrayals of the artist’s experiences. Work featured: Attraction
Artist: Yassine Alaoui Snapshot: Alaoui’s eye captures unique everyday scenes through his photography, often missed by the naked eye. Work featured: Street Prayers
Artist: Nic Courdy Snapshot: The digital renditions of Nic Courdy are a sight for sore eyes with his dream-like and fantastical art. Work featured: Koons
44
Born To Run In a race to inspire the human spirit, MOJEH investigates the running collectives enhancing personal and social change in Saudi Arabia.
Words by Laura Beaney
Jeddah Running Club members, Arwa Alamoudi, Albaltool Baroum, Nesreen Ghonaim and Raghad Almarzouki come together for an early morning desert run, photographed by Amr Talat
Arwa Alamoudi, Albaltool Baroum, Nesreen Ghonaim and Raghad Almarzouki, photographed by Amr Talat
M OJEH H ealth
As we propel ourselves forward through familiar and
An unorthodox running crew, meeting three times a week
unchartered terrain, the exhilaration that comes with running
for the aforementioned ‘Hustle Tuesday’ – a session
reminds us that we are just a tiny part of this world, but we
otherwise known as beginner’s night, Ladies Night Sunday
are also entirely at one with it. It’s the most natural form of
and Longshot Saturday, that starts with a long distance
exercise, programmed into our DNA from our time spent
stint and culminates with coffee at Jeddah’s Medd Café,
as cavemen both hunting, and escaping as hunted prey.
the profile of its members spans all different backgrounds,
It costs nothing to practice and in countries like Africa,
ethnicities, genders and levels of experience. “We are not a
it’s often performed, barefoot with all but the slightest
running club,” explains its director, Nesreen Ghonaim who
equipment needed to participate. One memorable example
recently completed her first triathlon in Muscat and finished
is Ethiopia’s Abebe Bikila, who shoeless, coach-less and
in second place. “We started JRC to create a place to share
with very little experience, won the marathon during the
our infatuation with running and its transformative powers.”
1960 Summer Olympics in Rome.
The Collective doesn’t break any state laws per se, but they
In spite of its ease and inherent sense of freedom, for many
have faced opposition from the religious police and more
women running is not a granted gift. Females in Saudi
conservative members of the community. Weaving their
Arabia, while undoubtedly making progress in participating
way across the region’s mountainous terrain, pounding
in sports, are still up against some serious constraints.
the desert sand or city streets, for the JRC, Jeddah has
During the 2016 Rio Olympics four women represented
become an urban playground, its expansive open spaces
their country, an improvement from the two who competed
and concrete pathways become race tracks for mixed
in 2012, but inside KSA, societal restrictions still hamper
groups – something its inhabitants haven’t experienced
access to sports for its female inhabitants. Until August 1
before. Indeed there’s a meditative quality associated with
2016, women were not allowed to attend or participate in
putting one foot in front of the other and hearing the soles
national tournaments or state-organised sports. However,
hit the pavement, but there’s also an element of subversion.
in a positive move, the General Authority for Sports
When you suspend the rules of running on the street there’s
announced a new female department and appointed the
something poetic in the notion of senses being freed up
widely respected Princess Reema bint Bandar Al Saud
and let loose, considering Saudi Arabia’s stringent rules.
as its head. Yet, in spite of this, Saudi’s women remain
“Hejaz Ultra has been one of the most challenging courses
restricted from sports infrastructure; the Saudi National
with its hills, rocks, sand, heat, and never-ending trail,” says
Olympic Committee does not have a women’s section, and
Al-Batool Baroom who ran her first half marathon just 10
females still cannot participate in national tournaments. Born
days after joining JRC. “There was one time we went for a
out of a desire to level the score, a bold new movement
training run and I found myself with the fast group, I guess
is rapidly gaining momentum in the Kingdom and seeks
I got a little excited and didn’t pace myself, after a while
to overcome these gender obstacles, one run at a time.
I couldn’t keep up. At that point the other group was too
“I came across a post on Instagram highlighting a group
far behind and I couldn’t see them. The fear of getting lost
called the Jeddah Running Collective. It was inviting and
somewhere in the desert forced me to push myself to keep
encouraging people to join the ‘Hustle Tuesday’,” explains
up to reach the first checkpoint. It was probably one of the
certified trainer, Raghad Almarzouki who balances a career
toughest runs I had to endure.”
in finance with her passion for outdoor pursuits like hiking
While open to both genders, JRC encourages women, in
and climbing. “I didn’t believe that they were a real thing, but
particular, to get moving, but for them the challenges far
I was so excited by the idea of a group of people running
exceed the typical physical demands associated with the
in Jeddah, that I decided to check it out. I was curious.”
sport. Saudi’s female runners must be prepared to sweat.
46
The existence of a group like the JRC might seem unremarkable to most other cities, but in Saudi Arabia’s conservative climate its socially contagious appeal helps women to contest their status quo.
The Jeddah Running Club consider themselves to be an unorthodox running crew that serve as an anti-thesis against the traditional running clubs
“Running in an Abaya with the intense summer temperatures and humidity is very challenging,” says Arwa Alamoudi another runner who first picked up her trainers while she was studying in Illinois and went on to participate in races across the state. But in Saudi, running in an Abaya has become a symbol for both personal and social change with the hashtag #RunningInAbaya propelled across the JRC social media accounts. And the positive momentum they have generated is building fast. JRC was founded in 2013 followed by collectives in Riyadh (2016) and Medina and Khobar in 2017. “The scene is rapidly evolving,” says Baroom. “There are more people joining every day. It’s amazing to see how many women have joined us at JRC alone. It started with less than a handful but last month we announced that we were organising a female race, and more than 700 women signed up in Jeddah!” A catalyst for connectivity between its members and offering them the chance to explore their city anew, the existence of a group like the JRC might seem unremarkable to most other cities, but in Saudi Arabia’s conservative climate its socially contagious appeal helps women to contest their status quo. “I strongly believe that we are making huge strides as a nation,” enthuses Baroom. “The JRC helps to cultivate that culture. We may be small, but we are game changers and pioneers, we hope to inspire women everywhere. If we, your average public, can do it in a very restrictive environment, then others have no excuse.”
Running Free UAE: Nike+Run Club Members meet on Tuesdays at 6.45pm at Al Safa Park, Gate 5. Fridays at 7.45am at Burj Park Downtown, Saturdays at 7.45am at Make Hub, JBR, and Mondays at 6.45pm at Abu Dhabi Corniche. Saudi Arabia: YallaRun.org Jeddah Running Collective (JRC), Riyadh Running Collective (RRC), Madinah Running Collective (MRC) and Khobar Running Collective are all independent urban running crews and are part of The Running Collectives project which was created by Movement Jeddah. Class schedules vary according to location with options for different levels and women only runs. Bahrain: Bahrain Road Runners This 40-year-old institution has grown from a local running club to a regional movement, and its efforts and events serve all-levels of runners and active individuals. BRR organise races throughout the year like marathons, half marathons, triathlons, duathlons, biathlons as well as other races. Run Indoors: Dubai Sports World (1 June – 2 Sept) For two-and-a half summer months, Dubai World Trade Center transforms its premises into Dubai Sports World, an indoor summer sports venue. 500 metres in length, the running track encompasses the entire sports arena. It’s free to use and doesn’t require booking.
48
F a sh i o n F eatur e
Swim Season No longer considered a mere afterthought in our summer collection, the rise of luxury swimwear has impressed even the most hardened of critics. We take a look at the brands cashing in on this new lucrative trend and how traditional silhouettes are being redefined for a new generation.
Words by Natalie Trevis
Born Free, photographed by Marco Cella, MOJEH Issue 28
50 Spare a moment to glance up from your sunbed this summer and take a good look around. Gone are the functional swimsuits, ill-fitting bikinis and uninspiring lycra of the past, replaced by modern fabrics, high leg silhouettes and retro-chic pieces that reflect the wearer’s individual style. A Sophie Anderson straw tote, teamed with a Eugenia Kim slogan sunhat, and Miu Miu slides complete the Instagram-worthy look. Our choice of swimwear is no longer a selfconscious afterthought but rather an expression of luxury that makes stripping down the new dressing up. It’s a trend that is echoed across the swimwear industry as a whole. Global Industry Analysts Inc. predict the worldwide market to be worth AED 88.4 billion by 2019 with a range of specialist brands and luxury players stepping into the fray to offer desirable investment pieces. Designers such as Versace,
Femininity is portrayed through soft frills and floral motifs at Fendi
Miuccia Prada presents a playful summer mood, dreaming up a retro fantasy during her spring/summer show
Our choice of swimwear is no longer a self-conscious afterthought but rather an expression of luxury that makes stripping down the new dressing up.
Stella McCartney, Givenchy, Louis
alternative that mimics the bodysuits,
heading to the office as the pool, has
Vu i t t o n a n d R a l p h L a u re n h a v e
bralets and cropped tops streaming
driven much-needed development in
all upped their swimwear offering
down from the runway. If swimwear
swimwear fit, design and comfort.
in recent years, while innovative
is taking its cues from ready-to-wear
“I think the swim technology has
pieces from cult swimwear labels
then the love affair is certainly mutual,
e v o l v e d w i t h t h e t re n d s , ” s a y s
like Melissa Odabash, Heidi Klein,
with Fendi offering a beautiful floral
Odabash, “especially with the rise of
Solid & Striped, LemLem, Kiini and
ruffled swimsuit under sheer layers for
sports luxe, customers expect more
Flagpole have intensified the demand
spring/summer17, Michael Kors opting
from their swimwear.”
for individualism. “I think because the
for coordinating high-waisted hotpants
Forget the poorly designed and ill-
swimwear market is booming, more
and bikini tops and Alexander Wang
fitting pieces of the past, swimwear
risks are being taken and designers
devoting Balenciaga’s entire cruise 2016
today is a slick, high performance
are getting more and more creative
collection to the beach, complete with
a ff a i r d e s i g n e d b y w o m e n w h o
just like mainline brands,” says
a ‘surf’ scarf and ‘beach towel’ dress.
have a vested interest in wearing it.
Melissa Odabash. “Swimwear for me
Swimwear designer Lisa Marie
Inter nal bodicing, bonded fabrics,
is a lifestyle. I am always wearing it
Fer nandez often wears one of her
prints and colourways that reflect (or
when I am away and I spend a lot of
swimsuits as a bodysuit in the city.
replicate, in the case of the luxury
time on the beach. In many ways my
After launching a line of neoprene
designers) the seasonal collections
brand is an extension of who I am
swimwear in 2009, she sensed
are becoming the norm. “We have
and what my style is.”
a shifting mood that led to her
always felt that performance fabrics
D e s t i n a t i o n w e a r, d r i v e n b y t h e
introducing a range of beach-to-bar
and style needed to be blended,”
ever-popular and feted pre-season
pieces, such as bodycon dresses that
say Balch and Barker. “Not everyone
collections, particularly cruise, now
blurred the sartorial lines between
wants to be limited in their activities
has a place in wardrobes all year
urban and beach life. “Swim is now
by a string bikini, and not everyone
round, as we continue to travel
being worn as bodysuits under pants
in a one-piece is swimming laps in a
m o re f re q u e n t l y t o a v a r i e t y o f
and as leotards in yoga class,” say
pool. More functional suits are being
destinations. Espadrilles, swimsuits
Megan Balch and Jaime Barker, co-
made for real women to feel confident
and kaftans take on a dual role, no
founders of laidback surf-inspired
on the beach than ever before.” With
longer carrying just a beachwear tag,
swimwear line Flagpole. “We will
the trend for more revealing swimwear
but elevated through clever layering
both go months wearing a swim
picking up pace, consumers are
for daily city expeditions. Boosted
top in lieu of a proper bra. The
demanding their pieces work to lift
by the wellness and fitness trends
swimsuit has become a staple part
and support in all the right places; it’s
s w e e p i n g a c ro s s o u r c o l l e c t i v e
of a woman’s wardrobe for the first
all about the quality.
consciousness, swimwear finds a
time.” This transeasonal crossover,
In line with the trend for individualism
home as a neat underlayer or fitness
where a swimsuit is as likely to be
this season, women are prepared
Key colours for 2017
MELISSA ODABASH
KIINI
ZIMMERMANN
TORY BURCH
52 to invest in swimwear that will offer
body and carefully curated holiday
Insta-crowd, sharing posts on their
them an edge. This is where added
outfit. “With the rise of social media
site, A Bikini A Day, and building an
design elements like studs, in-built
and the way people choose to holiday,
empire in the process, launching
j e w e l l e r y, s t re t c h j a c q u a rd a n d
selecting the right swimwear has become
their own swimwear line, Monday
embroidery come in, and mean that
paramount to so many,” notes Odabash.
S w i m w e a r, o n t h e b a c k o f i t s
a Norma Kamali studded balconette
“Beach clubs are the norm and everyone
success. “We wanted to create a
bikini, for example, can fetch up to
is looking for that perfect picture in their
place where all the bikini lovers of
AED 3 billion. “For me, the most
holiday wear, so this will in turn play a role
the world could come together to
important thing when designing
in how women choose their swimwear.”
obsess over bikinis every single day,”
each suit is the fit,” says Oleema
A growing devotion to swimwear is
says Oakley. “We feel as though a
Miller, former professional surfer and
further swayed by a desire to emulate
bikini is more than just a swimsuit
creative director of Mikoh, which she
a crop of high profile swimwear
to wear at the beach, the bikini
co-founded with her sister Kalani.
influencers who have made looking
embodies a lifestyle of freedom,
“ H a v i n g i n c re d i b l e s e w e r s a n d
good into an art form, offering fitness
travel, expressionism and relaxation.”
factories is key, and each piece sewn
and style inspiration with exotic
Swimwear today is style at its most
is like a work of art. Every single
locations as their backdrop. We
exposed and most extreme: and
millimetre of one of our suits has
think swimwear used to be an after
therein lies its attraction.
been thought about and has been
thought,” say Balch and Barker. “Now
Aw a y
conceptualised, designed, and sewn
with Instagram, intimate moments
showcased online, women of all
with so much care. The growth of
like lying by the pool are a public
ages, shapes and sizes are waking
the swimwear industry has definitely
spectacle and people want to look
up to the allure of a well-made
pushed technology to follow and has
their best.” The benefits come full
swimsuit. Model Ashley Graham
in turn allowed better ways to sew
circle: a focus on trend-led swimwear
recently released her second capsule
and produce all swim.”
online encourages designers to improve
collection for Swimsuits For All,
Of course digital mobility has played
their offering, while the attention of key
which goes up to a size 22, while
a big part in the rise of luxury
influencers can make a brand overnight.
other brands are reexamining the
swimwear too, as weekend jaunts
Triangl, known for its bold colour-block
traditional silhouettes defined by
abroad or last minute trips become
bikinis, saw a rise in sales from AED 92
body shape and are coming up with
more the social norm. If vacations
million in 2014 to AED 220 million by
something new. Today, anything goes.
used to offer a quiet, serene time
2015 following posts featuring Kendall
“No matter your body type, wearing
to step out of the rat race for a
Jenner, Miley Cyrus and Ellie Goulding
a bikini and feeling confident about
few days, they are now the perfect
in their swimwear.
yourself and confident about your
opportunity to document our every
Natasha Oakley and Devin Brugman
body is empowering,” says Kalani
travel experience, hard-earned bikini
are pioneers of the beach-loving
Miller of Mikoh. Likewise, Melissa
f ro m
the
f i l t e re d
Key styles for 2017
ERES
FLAGPOLE
CAMILLA
MARA HOFFMAN
re a l i t y
Odabash is launching a second consecutive swimwear collection for cancer charity, Future Dreams, for women who have been through a mastectomy. “We believe that you don’t have to be overly exposed to feel sexy,” agree Balch and Barker. “It has been amazing to have women reach out to us who haven’t been in suits for years, telling us they want to try one of ours.” Whether you want to recreate an iconic moment in swimwear history this summer – Bo Derek in that nude maillot in 10, Halle Berry in Die Another Day, or perhaps even Pamela Anderson in her red Baywatch number - or just simply want to find that perfect fit, there’s something for everyone. Today’s swimwear choices are no longer a painful afterthought; it can be fun, functional and empowering. “Swimwear is our childhood,” say Balch and Barker. Louis Vuitton transitions swimwear to work wear, layering it under tailored separates
“We want to make suits that help women create more of the good memories.”
Graphic prints met bold hues at Stella McCartney
Brands are reexamining the traditional silhouettes defined by body shape and are coming up with something new. Today, anything goes.
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Get Laced
se a s o n al s ty le
Bohemia encounters an edgy update this season with corset-like strings threaded through romantic silhouettes. The subtle flash of skin from Zimmermann’s laceup skirt poses a sensual aesthetic that is both daring and feminine.
Compiled by Sophie Pasztor
ZIMMERMANN
1. ATTICO | 2. CHLOÉ | 3. ZIMMERMANN @netaporter | 4. COACH | 5. CHANEL | 6. NADA G | 7. DONNA HOURANI | 8. CAROLINE CONSTAS @matchesfashion
Motor Vision
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VERSACE
Graphics are given an athletic spin towards familiar sporting paraphernalia. Racing stripes inspire Fendi’s sock boots while chequered flag motifs adorn wide leg trousers.
1. CHANEL | 2. CÉLINE | 3. AUDEMARS PIGUET | 4. HILLIER BARTLEY | 5. NOUDAR | 6. VALENTINO @mytheresa | 7. FENDI
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D e sig n er F o c u s
S ophisticated
Sensibilities We talk summer dressing, seasonless collections and Sydney with Australian designer Dion Lee.
Interview by Mary Keenan
Sequin dresses and separates in crimson, black and navy brought a surrealist glimmer to the runway
The designer perfects his garments during a pre-show fitting in his studio
The Dion Lee woman. Is confident and intelligent with a sharp sense of style and humour. Curious beginnings. From a very early age I was interested in the construction of things, which manifested in various ways. While in high school I became particularly fascinated with garments and fashion, leading me to study design and propelling me to start my own label soon after graduating. London as a launchpad. London is a hub of experimentation and creativity and I remember feeling really excited and of course a little daunted showing there. It felt like a natural progression from Australian Fashion Week and was the perfect opportunity for me to showcase the brand internationally. Being in the Big Apple. New York has always been a city that inspires me personally and there are a lot of synergies with its fashion industry and my brand. New York style is more tailored and sportswear focused which really speaks to our aesthetic. I think spending more time in New York has definitely helped the brand mature aesthetically and refined its signature design elements. Presenting on a global platform means thinking strategically about each collection to reach new markets whilst not alienating your existing customer base.
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Lee experimented with linear micro-pleating techniques to create texture and a sense of movement
There’s no place like home. There is an ease and athleticism that runs through each collection, which I think is inherent to the Sydney lifestyle. Whilst many of my influences now come from my travels and new home in New York, our Australian heritage will always be at the core of our brand DNA. Key inspiration for spring/summer17. Kinetic art – art that depends on movement for its effect. Experimentation in spring/summer17. Various pleating techniques – we experimented with these linear elements to create texture and movement. The dark side. Navy is a constant in our collection palettes, which I think is relevant to the notion of season-less dressing. The trick with the spring/summer 2017 collection particularly was ensuring the lightness of each look was maintained in darker colourways, which we did through fabrication and silhouette. Two key take-homes for the season. The oversized poncho-style outerwear and tailored suiting. Entering a season-less era. Catering to an international market, we have seen each collection become less seasonal. Wardrobe staples to me are tailored shirting, fine knitwear, suiting and light-weight outerwear. On standing out. There is a sense of ease and effortlessness that I think every Australian designer possesses. I think being distanced from the global industry allows you to not be as influenced by trends and other designers. Learning curves. I think the most valuable lessons have come from the amazing people I’ve worked with over the years. The whole process has been an evolutionary experience where I’ve learnt from both my successes and challenges. Lee’s new eyewear line is set to launch this year. Pictures of the prototypes hang on his moodboard
Dion Lee in three words. Tailored, Athletic, Sensual.
MOJEH.COM Our carefully curated digital platform delivers engaging, inspiring and timely content with exclusive access to the industry’s most influential players.
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The Mood
A wash of azure took to the stage at Prabal Gurung
E a s y B r e e z y Billowing gowns in floaty fabrics set the tone for effortless summer dressing. When it comes to dressing for the hot summer months, convenience and comfort is key. Look to luxurious maxi dresses with diaphanous silhouettes as seen at Prabal Gurung, Haider Ackermann and Giambattista Valli to nail sophisticated warm weather dressing. Select styles cut from lightweight fabrics such as silk crepe de chine, georgette or chiffon, which generate plenty of movement. Visually-rich jewel tones with a metallic sheen strike an opulent chord, as do this season’s shades du jour of orange, red and electric blue. Deviate away from traditionally whimsical tones of blush or white and channel unabashed elegance in a Grecianinspired gown in a vivacious hue that will serve well on overseas jaunts with a heightened dress code. For occasions that stipulate a more modest approach, take style cues from Roksanda’s spring/ summer17 collection by reverse layering a breathable long-sleeved top underneath a flowing maxi dress, however ensure both garments are within the same colour group to establish cohesiveness. Easily dressed up or down with accessories, these versatile dresses are well-suited to a wide spectrum of affairs including lazy lunches on the Riviera, European sojourns or black-tie events.
Designer Roksanda Ilincic interprets the trend in golden tones
Tasseled To u c h e s Tasseled details crafted from unexpected materials bring a jovial air to the season’s accessories.
This spring we’ve been treated to just about everything when it comes to accessories. From micro mini to oversized bags, sliders to sock boots and multiple belts to mismatched earrings – there’s a lot that appeals to both minimalists and maximalists. Trends aside, we turn our focus to the finer details that bring a playful nuance to a range of accessories. Colourful tassels appeared on jewellery, bags and shoes transmitting an exuberant and upbeat mood. Tassels took on a resplendent flight of fancy at Paule Ka where they were fashioned out of feathers in spectacular shades of crimson, yellow, orange and blue. At Blugirl, Anna Molinari added threaded and leather tassel flourishes on earrings and footwear to intensify her Latin American folk theme. Clunky rubber-soled sandals were accentuated with raffia and leather tassels in both monochrome and multicolours, while eyecatching threaded versions streamed from charming pendant earrings and necklaces. An excellent way to introduce an animated dose of colour, look for pieces in rich and arresting hues to pack a light-hearted punch.
Tassels offer the finishing touches at Paule Ka
Blugirl introduces the trend on to sliders
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The Hue
Hooded white parkas and pleated skirts conveyed a sporty and futuristic vibe at Paco Rabanne. Steer clear of sneakers to avoid a tired clichĂŠ and instead opt for modern accessories to keep the look clean and contemporary.
The White Out
From cool and crisp to refined and romantic, white edges ahead on our list for the all-important summer dress.
At Oscar de la Renta, an intricatelypatterned lace stitched pullover gave way to a flared pleated skirt. Wear with embellished mismatched earrings and a pair of statement block-heeled sandals for just the right amount of edge.
While a dazzling array of bold colours undoubtedly made their mark on the spring/ summer17 runways, so too did the more soothing and modern shade of optic white, manifesting itself in dresses of innumerable shapes, lengths and silhouettes. Sporty and sleek mini dresses playing up to the athleisure movement alluded to stark tennis whites, while full-bodied and ladylike dresses cut from the softest and daintiest fabrics were key advocates for full-blown summer romance with a heady dose of nostalgia. We examine four highly covetable runway styles and the ways to wear them.
Voluminous Bishop sleeves and lightly ruffled necklines brought romance and whimsy to Tibi’s A-line dresses, which were kept in check with the simplest of accessories. Look for garments that are streamlined through the bodice for subtle femininity.
The slip dress reigned supreme in New York with Japanese designer, Hanako Maeda choosing to drape her chic button up versions over duck-egg blue blouses. Follow this approach for elegant office wear through the summer months.
Prophetic T r u t h Inflamed folds reshape the frame adding a new element to summer’s elevated structures. Monochrome palettes and minimalist prints let cut out details and frayed edges capture our attentions.
Photographed by Chantelle Dosser Styled by Anna Klein
Dress, CÉLINE
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Jumpsuit, DIOR
Dress, CÉLINE
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Blazer, trousers and shoes, YOHJI YAMAMOTO
Top, skirt and belt, MARNI
Dress, CÉLINE
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Shirt, skirt and shoes, MM6 MAISON MARGIELA
Top, trousers and shoes, LOUIS VUITTON
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Dress, CÉLINE
Dress, KENZO
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Top and trousers, VALENTINO
Model: Cameryn Stoltz at Boss Models Hair and makeup: Sam Sunshine Till Photography assistant: Wayne Styling assistants: Rebecka Häggblom Videography (watch on MOJEH.com): Rory Till Local production: Gavin Schneider Production Editor: Kelly Baldwin
Shirt and skirt, Y’S YOHJI YAMAMOTO
Conquering Perfection Patterns protrude from cross-cultural reference points. Florals find a place next to gingham, while ethnic and graphic details align with stripes. Add an elevated style element with outsized brooches, micro pleats and structural tailoring.
Photographed by Stefania Paparelli Styled by Simona Melegari
Top, trousers, cape and brooch, GUCCI | shoes, MAX MARA | earrings, MARNI
Jacket, shirt, trousers and shoes, PRADA | earrings, MARNI
Skirt, FABIO QUARANTA | tops, CÉLINE | earrings, MARNI | rings, VERNISSAGE ILENIA CORTI
Shirt, skirt and belt, BALENCIAGA | earrings, MARNI | rings, VERNISSAGE ILENIA CORTI
Dress, MARCO DE VINCENZO | shirt, LUCIO VANOTTI | earrings, MARNI | shoes, BALENCIAGA | rings, VERNISSAGE ILENIA CORTI
Shirt, ISABEL MARANT | scarf, SALVATORE FERRAGAMO | brooch, GUCCI | jumpsuit, CHLOÉ | earrings, MARNI
Dress, ANGELOS FRENTZOS | top, GABRIELE COLANGELO | earrings, MARNI | rings, VERNISSAGE ILENIA CORTI
Shirt, VALENTINO | jumpsuit and earrings, MARNI
Jacket, STELLA MCCARTNEY | trousers, CRISTIANO BURANI | belt, FABIO QUARANTA | shoes, MAX MARA | earrings, MARNI
Dress, ATTICO | stole, ILARIA NISTRI | shoes, BALENCIAGA | earrings, MARNI | rings, VERNISSAGE ILENIA CORTI
Jacket, dress and shirt, COACH 1941 | earrings, MARNI
Model: Leila Zandonai at Why Not Models Hair stylist: Giuseppe Lorusso Makeup artist: Giovanni Lovine Editor: Kelly Baldwin
Dress, GABRIELE COLANGELO | trousers, FABIO QUARANTA | earrings, MARNI
Shirt, VANLENTINO | trousers, LOUIS VUITTON | belt, MIU MIU | shoes, MISSONI | earrings, MARNI
First Impressions Brazen and bright become the high notes in summer beauty. Mirror a powerful, primary colour makeup palette with geometric adornments and block coloured prints repeating the more is more mantra.
Photographed by Alexandre Felix Styled by Coline Peyrot
Top, EMILIO PUCCI | earring, OFF-WHITE. Red stands out as the hue of the season from lipstick and blush to liner. For a wearable eye, use a lighter tone to create a smoky look
Top, EACH X OTHER | necklace, CATHERINE LE GAL at Galerie Naïla de Monbrison
Jacket, BALENCIAGA
Jacket, WANDA NYLON | earrings, JULIETTE POLAC at Galerie NaĂŻla de Monbrison. A luminous complexion remains a summer must. Use an illuminating stick on the cheekbones, heart of the lips and tip of the nose
Ring, CRUZ DIEZ at Galerie MiniMasterpiece
Jumper, AALTO | brooch, FRANÇOIS MORELLET at Galerie MiniMasterpiece
Coat, DIOR | necklace, ZHOU YIYAN at Galerie MiniMasterpiece. The key to wearing glitter is in mixing liquids and powders and then patience while the look dries
Model: Ali Osk at Silent Models Makeup artist: Virginie Rascle Hair stylist: Cyril Laforet Set designer: Stefanie Grau Editor: Kelly Baldwin
Necklace and earring, MARION VIDAL
Coat, GIVENCHY | ring, CEDRIC RAGOT at Galerie MiniMasterpiece. To create this season’s soft flyaways, add volumising dust to the roots and back comb from either a ponytail or chignon. Fix with hairspray
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E xh ib i ti o n i n F o cu s
An Assortment of
Splendours We journey to China’s Forbidden City in pursuit of jewellery pieces that span centuries and tell the tales of their times.
The Forbidden City, Beijing: a 600-year-old masterpiece
grace; presence,” explains Jean-Marc. Designed
that withstood a cultural revolution set on obliterating
by Joseph Chaumet, like a miracle, a diamond is
all forms of splendour. Ironically, now home to Imperial
suspended in what appears to be thin air, surrounded
Splendours, an opulent exhibition by famed French
by a floral frame and capturing light enigmatically. We
jewellers Chaumet. And fittingly so, considering that
move through the space enjoying similar delights by
in its 250-year reign, the house and its works have
Joseph such as Radiant Sun, a Belle Époque period
been a continuous voice for such revolutions. “The
piece, displaying his love for celestial motifs in a rare
Forbidden City is a place of eternity and a strong symbol
emerald and diamond arrangement. In a paradoxical
of survival. Both of which ring true for Chaumet,” says
and pioneering end to the series, Improbable Gardens,
CEO Jean-Marc Mansvelt, whom we met during the
designed by Central St. Martins graduate Scott
exhibition’s opening day in China.
Armstrong, nods towards the cutting-edge side of
As we enter, Emperor Napoleon’s consular sword
the brand as bold, sharp lines are disrupted by playful
from 1802 stands tall in front of the original coronation
burst of green jewels.
painting by Francois Gerard. The blade, along with its
Age-old designs and fresh talent aside, the exhibits
crown diamonds – including the 140-carat Regent –
were gathered from 17 different museums, including the
had never left France prior to the exhibition. Under the
Louvre, private lenders, European royalty and Chaumet’s
scientific direction of Henri Loyrette, and curated by
own heritage museum. In an ode to their host country,
Beatrice de Plinval, the 1,000-square-metre sacred
the central wall presents 44 pieces of Far-East aesthetic;
space visually articulates the tale of the brand and its
half are Chaumet’s interpretations of oriental exoticism,
unwavering dedication to innovation, savoir-faire and,
and half from the Palace Museum’s own collection. “It’s
most importantly, culture. Napoleon’s splendour is just
about sharing culture, sharing experiences, and about
one of many. “It’s a way to express the richness of a
living through emotion. What we encourage is men and
house that has existed for centuries, and has survived
women to understand the subject and culture behind the
so much,” explains Jean-Marc. “It’s about a certain
piece. It isn’t always rational, sometimes it’s just joy,” adds
variety and complexity and a true richness, a showcase
Jean-Marc. “By merging different cultures in this way – in
of the brand’s evolution and how its key themes remain
this case the West meets Far-East – we’re encouraging
and merge together.”
a dialogue to form around different themes and points
The centre of the space pays impeccable homage to
of views. In these varying visions and reinterpretations,
a vast but delicate array of tiaras, an emblem that is
we discover a new richness.”
arguably the beating heart of the brand. “For me, the
Imperial Splendours runs until July 2nd at The Palace
1907 Carnation diadem is an absolute treasure, which
Museum, Beijing. Here we walk through key themes
indicates all Chaumet elements – lightness; delicacy;
showcasing a progressive and ever-evolving style.
The suite of six swallows in gold, diamonds and sapphires, announces the coming of spring and has strong, symbolic value both in the East and West. Joseph Chaumet, 1890 The graphic visual effect, shimmering pink enamel and regal diamond design salutes visions of the Far East. Joseph Chaumet, circa 1900
Journey to the East Chaumet has always been influenced by varying cultures, but the 1920s was a significant decade in solidifying their relationship with the Far East. Amongst the 55,000 plus designs in their patrimony, references towards China, Japan and Asia in general can be seen through their use of pinks and blues, dedication to gardenia and more ornate pieces celebrating their empresses. “Chaumet is most importantly Parisian, and key to Paris is its acceptance of so many different cultures and the additional twists and turns that offers. Naturally, as a maison we have always been connected to the outside world,� offers Jean-Marc.
This platinum, pearl and diamond Asian-inspired pin belonged to Baroness Gourgaud, wife of art collector Napoleon Gourgaud, and was used to embellish her daily outfits. Joseph Chaumet, 1921
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Right: In gold, silver, rubies and diamonds, the Hummingbird Aigrette can also be worn as a brooch. The life-like plunging nature of the sculpture was a feat in 1880 even for Joseph Chaumet
Below: Mrs Payne Whitney’s wings can be sported as either a tiara or brooches. In platinum, diamonds and enamel feathers fly out like fireworks. Joseph Chaumet, 1910
Flights of Fancy Inspirations and ideals of Mother Nature feature heavily across Chaumet’s collections from flora and fauna to wheat references and of course birds of prey. Unsurprisingly the meaning behind each resonates far further than just its aesthetic qualities, the wings featured above as an example, were commissioned by sculptor, art collector and Vogue editor Mrs Payne Whitney, whom once married, reunited two great fortunes. Similarly, the below bee brooches stand as a symbol of immortality and resurrection – chosen by Emperor Napoleon, of course. Relating to both earth and life, these themes in particular can speak volumes about the woman who wears them and the culture she immerses herself in.
Here bridging both masculine and feminine hues, the bee was chosen by Emperor Napoleon as the oldest emblem of the French Monarchy. Cicra 1975
Left: Sautoir celebrates the geometric lines adopted during the Art Deco period. Platinum, diamonds and sapphires fall in to a final pompom motif. Joseph Chaumet, circa 1928
In the early 1900s it was still viewed as rude for a woman to check the time. As a result, the watch within Duc de Luynes, shown left, is hidden. Joseph Chaumet, circa 1910
He for She “Jewellery can be used as a beautiful and accurate measure of the evolution of women. The Josephine for example moved from a tiara to a ring in a gentle showcase of her freedom. It’s a sovereign object and showcases a great power,” says Jean-Marc. Some symbols less obvious than others – the ribbon has been used regularly by Chaumet as a constant emblem of the unravelling, emancipation and independence of a woman. “The evolution of society can be just as present through jewellery as it is art.” The Sautoir necklace, showcased on the right, highlights the androgyny discovered during the late 1920s. On a more practical level, as necklines plunged, the opportunity to wear longer jewellery pieces raised.
Wheat is a constant source of inspiration at the house nodding back to Ceres, the goddess of the Harvest in Roman mythology, and more importantly, an emblem of fertility. Francois-Regnault Nitot, circa 1811
112 The emerald in the radiant sun aigrette sits as a sun motif, where diamonds jut out as its rays. Joseph Chaumet, 1914
Rolling with the Times There are few disciplines that can be used as measures of societal structure and cultural swings, but when designed with complexity, storytelling and longevity in mind, jewellery is one such discipline. When the reed motifs brooch was crafted in 1893 by Joseph Chaumet, (shown to the right), its graphic lines and slenderness were unknown in high-jewellery. Today it’s defined as a masterpiece in end-of-century Naturalism, mainly due to the sharp dimensions and movements of the leaves. Similarly, the radiant sun aigrette, (above), offered a Belle Epoque alternative to the softer, feminine and often floral-inspired pieces of the early 1900s.
The 322-carat aquamarine stone takes on dual meaning; a mark of a happy marriage and a signifier of seawater. Joseph Chaumet, 1913
This 1893 brooch now rests in the private collection of Her Royal Highness the Princess of Haonver
Ro R
o
a
ky d
The stone: Perfection is eschewed in favour of raw and untouched gems, as designers opt for a more primitive and unique aesthetic. Raw, rough and irregular gems are luring us in with their unique oddities. Gem cutters have overlooked the need to perfect the exterior of stones, a far cry from the carefully cultivated styles previously popularised. We have seen this shift towards an organic aesthetic trickle down the runways with designers opting for natural beauty over complex hair and makeup creations. This unpolished shift could be attributed to our increasing desire to implement a natural and holistic approach to our lifestyles. Crystals and raw gemstones offer metaphysical properties that have long been a topical concept around the world, enticing us with their potential to heal and control moods and emotions. Designers such as Larkspur & Hawk and Melissa Joy Manning are heeding this notion, handcrafting their jewellery out of beautifully distinct stones and showcasing
Words by Sophie Pasztor
their originality and character in a more intriguing way. Worn best in a daytime setting, accentuate your own character with either one oversized, statement piece or stacked with other similar styles in varying colours.
Top to bottom: MELISSA JOY MANNING @netaporter | LE VIAN | LARKSPUR & HAWK @netaporter
Compiled by Sophie Pasztor
114 HIGH NOTES
BURBERRY
2 1
3
Ethereal Encounters Escape to an opulent dream land with stunning jewellery pieces such as Van Cleef & Arpels’ fairy brooch or Wendy Yue’s enthralling ring. Opt for harmonising green as your colour accent to balance your emotional and physical energies.
1. VAN CLEEF & ARPELS | 2. GILAN | 3. THEO FENNELL | 4. CARTIER | 5. WENDY YUE
5 4
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M OJEH H ealth
Credited with everything from exterior beauty to superior focus and enhanced overall health, we get to grips with health’s latest Holy Grail, the healthy gut.
Words by Laura Beaney
Two thousand years ago, the Greek physician
incredibly important, positive role in not just our
and waste also make their way into the
Hippocrates, declared that all disease begins
digestive health, but in our overall health and
bloodstream. This puts extreme pressure on the
in the gut and today it seems that the world
wellness,” explains Dr Mahmoud Ghannoum,
liver to detoxify as its functionality is impaired.
of medicine is in agreement. The gut’s main
the scientist who first discovered and named
These toxins are able to pass through the
function is to process food from the moment
the mycobiome, our body’s fungal community.
body, finding their way to different tissues and
it enters the mouth until it’s processed by the
Through his lifetime of research Dr Ghannoum
causing inflammation- a reaction, which has
body. From vitamin and mineral absorbency to
discovered that bacteria and fungi work together
been linked to diseases like diabetes, cancer,
hormone regulation, digestion, and immunity,
to create digestive plaque in the gut. His
and Alzheimer’s. Our ability to understand
more and more evidence is mounting to
findings have been named as a breakthrough
exactly what organisms a person has in
suggest that there is a clear link between the
in internal health, with potential applications that
their gut’s microbiome, and at what levels,
state of our internal bacteria and a plethora of
span an array of health issues. What we’ve also
provides far reaching information into these
health issues such as depression and cancer
come to understand is that health problems can
conditions, allowing the scientific community
that might otherwise seem unrelated.
start to arise when the balance of good and
to really examine what these organisms are
Hippocrates’ theory makes sense if you
bad microorganisms in our body are put out
doing, connecting the dots between gut health,
consider that 70 per cent of our immune
of kilter. “I’ll give you a specific example,” Dr
balance, and overall wellness.
system calls the gut its home with over 100
Ghannoum continues. “Many people have heard
Telltale signs of an unhealthy gut include
trillion bacteria living there. To put this figure
of Candida, and in fact, it actually generally
diarrhea, bloating, feelings of fullness,
into perspective, that’s 10 times the number
has a bad reputation. But when Candida is
constipation, lethargy and an upset stomach,
of cells in the entire body, weighing around
present at the appropriate levels in our system,
but sometimes the symptoms are subtler. The
2kg. The gut is also where 80 per cent of our
it actually aids our body’s ability to absorb
only real way to know whether your gut is out of
serotonin production occurs; indicating that
nutrients and properly digest food. However,
balance is to have your microbiome genetically
our levels of the chemical, closely linked with
if Candida is allowed to grow out of control,
sequenced. “Through sequencing the DNA of
happiness, may be affected by our internal
it can start to break down the gut’s tissue
organisms in someone’s digestive tract, we are
environment as well.
lining, which can cause very serious issues.”
able to not only identify the specific bacteria
Considering the age-old sentiments of the
The serious issues Dr Ghannoum refers to come
and fungi present in that person’s gut, but
Greek physician, investigation into this area
in the form of conditions like leaky gut syndrome
the levels of each organism as well,” explains
is nothing new, what is different, however
that occurs when the intestinal lining becomes
Dr Ghannoum. Enhanced awareness of the
is our understanding of it. “As science has
porous, meaning that larger, undigested food
community of bacteria and other microbes
developed over the last decade, what we’ve
molecules escape from the digestive tract.
living in your intestinal tract seems like a wise
come to realise is that microorganisms play an
As well as these food particles yeast, toxins,
move for longevity, but what’s the first step
In Another Life, photographed by RICCARDO VIMERCATI MOJEH Issue 16
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Good bacteria can be boosted by probiotic-rich foods that include fermented vegetables like sauerkraut, kimchi and natural pickles, as well as fermented dairies like cheese, laban, and yogurt.
towards an optimum environment? Much of
polycystic ovarian syndrome than their much
humans, we cannot digest these fibres but the
the microbiome’s composition is established
more vilified counterpart, glucose. With this in
beneficial bacteria in our gut rely upon them
early in life initiated by factors out of our
mind, should we be throwing out our juicer, or
to feed and promote the growth of healthy
control, ranging from genetics to extensive
at the very least reexamining what we put into
gut flora. Some prebiotics include legumes,
use of antibiotics and breastfeeding versus
it? “Our diets should be diverse and there isn’t
beans and peas, bananas, asparagus,
bottle-feeding. What we can alter is some of
one framework that fits everyone,” notes Neha
cabbage, artichokes, root vegetables and
the other contributing factors such as diet,
Jamani a therapeutic chef and founder of The
apples as well as those found in the allium
stress levels and our eating methods. “Many
Sacred Kitchen, a Dubai-based events concept
family, for example, onions, garlic or leeks.
people will be surprised to realise that even
that provides healthful, nutrient-dense foods.
Altering our microbiome is an immeasurable
just lowering their stress will positively change
“I think it’s very important to eat a varied diet
task - nobody knows exactly how long it might
the balance of their gut’s microbiome, which
because the microbiome is very diverse, so one
take and it varies from person to person. This is
ultimately has an impact on their digestive
should aim to eat foods that are rich in both
because our gut’s ecosystem is already in place
health,” notes Ghannoum.
prebiotics and probiotics.” Good bacteria can
and this establishes how nutrients are absorbed
Discovering that a diet based on sugar, caffeine
be boosted by probiotic-rich foods that include
and processed. If the microbial community in
and fast food is detrimental to a healthy gut may
fermented vegetables like sauerkraut, kimchi
your gut has been molded around processed
not come as a shock, but bad bacteria does not
and natural pickles, as well as fermented dairies
meats and refined sugar for example, it won’t
discriminate. Feeding off of any kind of sugar,
like cheese, laban, and yogurt. Prebiotics are
react as quickly to dietary changes compared
even those from fruit juices, namely fructose, is
also crucial and come from certain types of
to a gut formed from fresh fruit, vegetables and
known to overload the liver and are more closely
carbohydrates that are mostly fibre-based
grains that provide varied microbiota to begin
linked to type 1 diabetes and conditions like
such as whole grain or sourdough bread. As
with. If the intestines are inflamed, they cannot
from the inside out, many turn to supplements and probiotic drinks. “First it would be good to find out, if a person has food intolerances and then cut out this food in order to keep inflammation levels in the body down,” clarifies Dr Maria Ridao, medical director of The Dubai Herbal Treatment Centre. “Take probiotics to balance the bacterial flora in the gut, especially after taking antibiotics and take digestive enzymes. Get checked for vitamin deficiencies, especially Vitamin D and B12 and look to supplements like Glutamine,” she continues. As with any health overhaul, dietary and supplementary changes are to be expected but one thing that might not often be considered is the way we consume them. Much like Hippocrates, the Viva Mayr clinic have built the foundations of their globally revered retreat on
Digestive Makeover
process nutrients, so in order to heal the gut
To ingest: Glow Inner Beauty Powder, The Beauty Chef What is it: A bio-fermented superfood blend in the form of a drinkable tonic that supports efficient digestion How does it work: It’s loaded with antioxidants, minerals, vitamins and probiotics designed to target gut health and enhance the skin from the inside out. Certified Organic, it contains naturally fermented ingredients like Dunaliella salina, a micro-algae known to be one of the most nutrient-dense foods on the planet and Queen Garnet Plum, proven to contain up to six times the antioxidant content of blueberries Results and benefits: This tonic promises to help synthesise collagen in the skin as well as supporting digestive health
the belief that our gut health is the epicentre of overall wellness. Dr Harald Strossier, its founder maintains that while the quality of the food we consume is important that’s only half the story. “The only way to influence the digestive process is by chewing,” he explains. “Each mouthful should be chewed at least 30 times, and it’s important not to drink tea or water while eating as this dissolves the saliva we need to digest.” Strossier also advises being mindful of the time we consume certain foods. Raw foods should not be eaten after 4pm, so for evening meals dishes like soups and even grilled foods are preferable to salads. This is because of the time it takes to digest these items. “If we eat more than the digestive tract can handle then a fermentation process occurs in the gut, in the case of excess protein from a meat-heavy diet, it becomes putrefied,” he adds. The result
To treat: Colonic Hydrotherapy, Dubai Herbal Treatment Centre What is it: A gentle washing of the entire colon with purified filtered water How does it work: This treatment hydrates the large intestine and flushes out any undesirable toxic matter that can build up over time Results and benefits: As well as hydrating and cleaning the large intestine, colonic hydrotherapy can improve ailments such as constipation, IBS, food allergies, skin disorders, gout, arthritis, pre-menstrual tension and chronic fatigue syndrome
of the fermentation and purification processes can often be seen externally in the form of skin conditions such as dermatitis, psoriasis or in the yellowing of the eyes. Strossier’s patients are also educated on the critical inclusion of omega 3 fatty acids for healthy gut function. Found in cold pressed oils like flaxseed or linseed, the oils should be ingested cold at around two tablespoons per day, drizzled over salads or fish. “They regenerate the surface of the intestine and the skin,” says Dr Strossier. One of the most important practices that patients take away from a stay at a retreat like Viva Mayr is that of mindful health and eating habits. Stress reduction, positive food choices, enhanced chewing habits and eating in a controlled and timely manner are all part of the journey to a healthier gut. More than just a trend in the health world, science today insists that next time you’re feeling tired or unwell it might be wise to consider how you’re treating your gut.
To heal: Viva Mayr retreat, Austria What is it: The Mayr Cure was invented by Austrian doctor Franz Xaver Mayr. His belief was that our overall health is dependent on the wellness of the digestive system. Viva Mayr is known for having an updated take on the original Cure Diet, with its doctors trained in both Mayr medicine and conventional medicine, offering a comprehensive approach How does it work: Your appointed doctor creates an individul treatment plan, combining contemporary Western medicine with Mayr methodology Results and benefits: Unlike many detoxes, the end goal is not weight loss, but it is a typically welcome side effect. Viva Mayr is about regenerating the colon where good health begins and its devotees report various benefits including clearer skin, whiter eyes, and improved mindful eating habits
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S e a s o nal B ea ut y
MARY KATRANTZOU
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H a p p y
Summer makeup embraces a sunny disposition with flamboyant and eye-catching shades setting an upbeat and exuberant tone.
Compiled by Mary Keenan
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Soothing shades of lilac and sea green become the season’s new neutrals, offering a pared back alternative to the rainbow brights seen on the runways. Opt for metallic eyeshadow shades in pistachio, dull mint and lavender to bring a serene shimmer and dust heavily across the eyelids, fanning out at the corners into a blunt cat-eye. Slightly darker shadows will bring an air of enchantment to event and red carpet beauty; pair with a lengthening mascara, dewy highlighter and a nude lip. Accent with metallic teal nail polishes for added shine.
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Aquamarine Gleam
1. Luxury Palette The Rebel, CHARLOTTE TILBURY | 2. Nail Polish Aqua Green No.418, BURBERRY | 3. CHRISTIAN SIRIANO | 4. Perfect Mono Eyeshadow 90, DOLCE&GABBANA | 5. VERSUS | 6. MARC JACOBS | 7. Highliner Pencil Blue Me Away, MARC JACOBS
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Sunshine Shades
1. Rouge Dior 643 Stand Out, CHRISTIAN DIOR | 2. VERSUS | 3. Nail Polish Daffodil No.416, BURBERRY | 4. Eyeshadow Palette 5 Couleurs Summer 2017 Limited Edition, CHRISTIAN DIOR | 5. SALVATORE FERRAGAMO | 6. VERSUS | 7. Eye Liner Hot Chick, CHRISTIAN LOBOUTIN
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Zesty bolts of colour were seen across many different collections and runways for spring/summer17, and not just on garments. A large number of designers including Mary Katrantzou, Versus and Salvatore Ferragamo utilised bold pops of orange and yellow on eyelids and lips. The key to pulling off these warm hues is to opt for a single accent on a clean base. Go for a bright matte lip and keep accompanying makeup as natural as possible, or make eyes the focal point by drawing a vivid stripe of liner above the eye or a use a cream eyeshadow on the lids and above the crease for a long-lasting look.
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Vibrant flashes of aqua blue and neon shades of magenta sparked visions of exotic far-flung summer vacations at Marco De Vincenzo, Thom Browne and Emilio Pucci where punchy hits of colour set a playful tone. Messy streaks of violet and orchid stood out against minimal makeup at Pucci while the exaggerated graphic lines at Christian Siriano felt brilliantly retro and surreal. Look to standout nail lacquers and polishes in these hues to sample the trend or replace favoured red lipsticks for ones containing purple pigments and a glossy finish for a refreshing evening look.
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Tropical Notions
1. Duo Eyeshadow China Seas, NARS | 2. La Petite Robe Noire Lilac Belt, GUERLAIN | 3. THOM BROWNE | 4. Miss Sicily Lipstick Annunziata 300, DOLCE&GABBANA | 5. MARCO DE VINCENZO | 6. EMILIO PUCCI | 7. Highliner Top Secret, MARC JACOBS
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M OJEH B ea u ty
Raw Canvas, photographed by Julia Noni, MOJEH Issue 6
Facing Forward
treatment is completed with Superficial, which is used to improve the appearance of the skin and reduce imperfections with a light peel. “In my experience, in Dubai people want to look good and improve their skin, but they don’t want the
There was once a time when botox, facelifts and chemical peels were
downtime,” notes Treston. The Fotona laser is
considered the peak of professional skincare. Today, however, it is
brilliant because we only need to resurface the
technological advancements that are leading the way with result-driven
upper layer, which means the treatment has
procedures in areas from anti-ageing to acne treatments and skin resurfacing. More than just a pampering session, these new scientific methods mimic the effects of surgery proposing both immediate and long-lasting results.
minimal downtime.” Results and benefits: Offering both instant and long-lasting results, collagen immediately lifts giving the illusion of fullness while new collagen production is stimulated, resulting in tightness and increased elasticity of the skin over time. What: Microneedling Where: The Cure, Media City Best for: Problematic skin How it works: Microneedling is a face
What: IV Infusion, The Revive Lux
perfect pick me up post-PMS as skin tends to
rejuvenation procedure recommended as a
Where: Biolite, Aesthetic Clinic, Umm Suqueim 2
look a little dull and the body feels drained,” says
series of six treatments. A fine roller is used to
Best for: The constant traveller
Dr. Mirza. Smokers, sun worshipers and sports
produce microscopic punctures in the skin for a
How it works: “While traditionally, aesthetic
lovers will also benefit from this hit of hydration.
deeper penetration of the serum. “It may sound
clinics are about treating skin externally we
quite harsh,” says therapist, Oksana Maclaren.
have taken this a step further to give our clients
What: Laser Therapy, Fotona 4D Laser Facelift
“But this procedure has very little downtime if
results from within,” explains Dr Mona Mirza.
Where: Rebecca Treston Aesthetics and
any. We use cooling products to soothe, calm
The treatment begins with an IV infusion packed
Euromed Clinic Dubai, Jumeirah
and deeply hydrate the skin afterwards.” These
with anti-oxidants, amino acids and vitamins,
Best for: Winding back the years
small contact points encourage the body to
essential for a healthy liver and brighter, hydrated
How it works: One of the greatest advancements
create a wound healing response and renew
skin. This is then complemented by a Cryofacial,
in skin treatments lies in laser technology. In
the skin cells. As the skin repairs, production
employing Cryo mist to chill the skin’s surface
the past this type of treatment was considered
of collagen and elastin is triggered to give an
creating a rapid constriction followed by a
both harsh and invasive, but today’s options are
immediate plumping effect.
vasodilation of the blood vessels. Active potent
decidedly less abrasive with minimal downtime
Results and benefits: Microneedling is an ideal
serums containing a multitude of amino acids,
and can be used to treat skin complaints from
alternative to mesotherapy for those who are
vitamins and minerals penetrate deep into the
wrinkles to thread veins and hyperpigmentation.
afraid of injections. It can also help to target
skin resulting in a fresh, dewy glow.
The Fotona 4D Laser Facelift utilises four
other skin issues such as scarring, dark spots,
Results and benefits: Skin surface benefits
combined laser modes: Smooth, Frac3, Piano
sun damage and ageing. “It helps to minimise
include decreased fine lines, pore size, and
and Superficial. First, Smooth mode is conducted
the appearance of the post inflammatory
increased radiance while the IV infusion offers
on the inside of the mouth to stimulate collagen
scars,” explains Maclaren. “The best part is
a new lease of energy and improved blood
and create a plumping effect similar to that of a
that the process of collagen production takes
circulation. Revive Lux is ideal for the regular
filler. Then Frac3 uses a fractional beam to target
about six months, which means that your
traveller as there’s no downtime and hydration
deeper imperfections and restore youthful texture
skin will be glowing and beautiful for at least
levels are deeply replenished. “It’s also the
and tone to the skin before Piano tightens. The
six months after the course is completed.”
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M OJEH H ealth
Stretching The Truth We’re taught that stretching before and after exercise is important for our flexibility and range of motion, but can it also leave us more vulnerable to injury?
Words by Annie Darling
Most of us were taught about the
international background in physiology,
if static stretching is worthwhile, it has
importance of stretching at school. In
rehabilitation and personal training. “The
its limitations. “Studies show that the
a chalky gymnasium, no doubt, from
benefits of stretching typically include
maximum benefit you can get from any
which the echoes of bare feet thumped
injury prevention and reduction of muscle
stretch is achieved somewhere in the
against exercise mats as handstands were
soreness,” she explains, “but there’s very
region of 15 to 30 seconds. Similarly,
awkwardly attempted in ill-fitting leotards.
little research that supports these claims.”
repeating a stretch 10 times in one
Despite getting older, many continue to
One of the largest studies conducted,
workout won’t give you any greater benefit
swear by these time-honoured ‘touch your
which monitored military recruits, showed
than doing it once.”
toes’ traditions, however research now
that an almost equal number of people
Many fitness studios in the region
suggests that some of the more long-
who undergo exercise develop injuries
are increasing the number of classes
standing routines are not only a waste
regardless of whether they had performed
dedicated to stretching for participants
of time, but actually bad for your health.
static stretches before training sessions.
who are pursuing a boost in energy and
The International Journal of Sports
“Overstretching can cause damage to
release of tension. No longer viewed as
Physical Therapy (IJSPT) has found that
ligaments and tendons,” agrees Karlee
an idle add-on to a workout, more and
rather than improving your muscles’ ability
Kautz, senior instructor trainer at Physique
more women are combating stiffness in
to perform, temporarily holding a stretch
57. “I see dancers, for example, trying to
the hope they can relax after a long day
simply increases your mental tolerance for
improve their splits by stretching beyond
spent hunched over a computer screen
its discomfort. In fact, holding a stretch
180 degrees with their legs.” And even
or mobile phone, both of which cause a
for 20 to 30 seconds – known as static stretching – actually weakens the muscle, according to research published by the University of Nevada. Other studies, including those conducted at the University of Zagreb, revealed that static stretches can decrease your strength by as much as 30 per cent. So why do medical professionals encourage stretching as a means of improving physical ability and warding off soreness? “For decades a great deal of research supported static stretching as improving one’s range of motion (ROM), with experts advising holding stretches in a static position,” says Dr Tarek Tawil of Alliance Medical Centre. “Newer research, however, shows prolonged static stretching decreases the blood flow within your tissue creating localised ischemia (a restriction in blood supply). This can potentially cause irritation.” Stretching as a means for injury prevention is based on the theory that a muscle that has been lengthened is more flexible. This supposedly decreases the tension that surrounds tendons and ligaments during exercise, which protects them from the repeated stresses of physical activity. But in activities with a high risk of trauma, such as running or cycling, research concludes that static stretching doesn’t lessen the chance of distress and, if performed improperly, can even be damaging. “In general, static stretching needs to be practiced with caution,” affirms Dr Tawil. Michelle Scott, general manager and lead instructor trainer at Real Pilates, has an
Moving With The Times, photographed by Oliver Rose, MOJEH Issue 26
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build-up of muscle tension that can trigger
coach Ryan Giggs, for example – “without
MOJEH that static stretching can make
headaches, as well as back and neck pain.
fail, undertake some form of static and
a muscle more compliant, but that it
Dr Tawil adds that stretching has the
dynamic stretching.”
shouldn’t be used pre-workout. “A static
potential to significantly improve your
Dynamic stretches, which incorporate the
stretch is designed to be done when the
mental health. “Stretching can have a
characteristics of warming-up, don’t cause
body is at rest,” he says. “One of the
profoundly positive impact on one’s mood,
the same performance deficits of its static
biggest mistakes I see people make while
especially if you suffer from depression
counterpart, in which the end position
static stretching is to try to go too far, or
and anxiety.” A Japanese study on women
is held and, often, taken to the point
to stretch too fast. Static stretching should
in Tokyo found that stretching releases
of discomfort. Muscles in motion don’t
be done slowly and gradually.”
dopamine, the neurotransmitter that
experience an inhibitory response, and
Research suggests that the overall
controls the brain’s pleasure center, which
dynamic exercises involve moving a limb
significance of stretching has been
helps improves your mood.
in a smooth and controlled manner, which
misjudged, and that there’s a right and
Dr Richard Higgins is a specialist sports
allows blood to flow to the muscle group,
wrong way, depending on your ability and
medicine practitioner who has worked with
keeping it warm and elastic. “It’s much
fitness regime. An increase in ‘explosive
some of the world’s most elite athletes.
better to stretch warm muscles rather than
exercise’ such as high intensity interval
“It’s true that much of the literature states
cold muscles,” affirms Marwa Al Hosani,
training (HIIT) could have a harmful
that stretching neither prevents injury or
physiotherapist at Healthpoint Abu Dhabi.
impact on our bodies if we don’t practice
improves performance,” he explains, “but
Although static stretches have come under
techniques that protect our muscles and
stretching makes us feel better. My theory
fire, when performed outside of exercise,
joints. Dissatisfied with going to the gym,
is that it releases what we know as fascial
the technique does seem to have value.
we’re more likely to push ourselves harder
tightness (tension that surrounds muscle).”
“Most people who don’t benefit from
in the quest for health and happiness. “With
The athletes Dr Higgins has worked with
stretching aren’t stretching properly,” says
so much information, it can be hard to tell
– 2012 Olympic heptathlon champion
Al Hosani. “If you don’t do it right, don’t do
which methods to follow,” admits Kautz, so
Jessica Ennis-Hill, professional squash
it at all!” Taylor Walsh, a fitness enthusiast
what is the golden rule? “Make sure your
player Nick Matthew, and Welsh football
and trainer at Barry’s Bootcamp, tells
muscles are warm before you stretch.”
Ask An Expert Dr Richard Higgins is a specialist sports medicine practitioner. He’s also a lead sports physician at the English Institute of Sport (EIS), an organisation that provides medical support to elite athletes, and a medical adviser to the English Football League. Here, he advises MOJEH on stretching techniques for breakthroughs in flexibility and performance.
Al Maha Desert Resort, Dubai Nestled deep within Dubai’s magical dune and desert landscape, Al Maha is a luxury resort where you can practise yoga amongst the heritage of the Bedouins. “Yoga is one activity that will bring about both mental and physical benefits, but it’s important to remember that one size doesn’t fit all. I would suggest that hypermobile women (women who have doublejointedness) with an excessive range of flexibility avoid this kind of exercise.”
Eastern Mangroves Hotel & Spa, Abu Dhabi A natural haven on the cusp of urban life, Eastern Mangroves by Anantara provides pilates classes to a backdrop ripe with serenity and elegance. “Pilates is a great exercise because it works on the core. This includes your internal abdominal strength, which is needed for good posture and stability. Pilates is good for stretching, but it’s also stabilising at the same time, making it a safe and beneficial type of exercise.”
Talise Spa in Madinat Jumeirah, Dubai Feel completely rejuvenated and practice deep breathing amidst the tranquil waterways that surround the award-winning Talise Spa. “Tai Chi is an ancient Chinese tradition that’s particularly beneficial because each movement combines a moderate stretch with much-needed muscular control. This gentle technique will make you feel better and fitter without you having to run faster or jump higher.”
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B e a u ty N ote
From left to right: Valentina Pink, VALENTINO | Flowerbomb Bloom, VIKTOR&ROLF | Miss Dior Absolutely Blooming, CHRISTIAN DIOR
Summertime S
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MOJEH delves into summer’s key fragrance groups and the most evocative and powerful scents within them.
Photographed by Borna Ahadi, styled by Mary Keenan
Words by Mary Keenan
There’s something incredibly thrilling, emotive and
at Sydney Airport after spending Christmas with my
nostalgic about fragrances that have the ability to
family - it’s now my go-to whenever those unwanted
transport you to another place or time. While I’ve
pangs of homesickness hit.
often been drawn to fragrances purely for their
Science has taught us that perfume’s ability to induce
smell, I do possess a number of perfumes that I’ve
memories is due to the location of the olfactory bulb,
collected over the years because they resonate with
responsible for the human body’s initial processing
me on a deeply personal level. These are my most
of smells. The position in which it sits has direct
cherished ones, worn on special occasions or on
connection with two brain areas that are strongly
days when I’m in need of a pick-me-up. The first
tied to emotion and memory. A significant point to
scent to encapsulate this charm was Oscar de la
note is that visual, auditory, and tactile information
Renta’s Limited Edition, an understated concoction
do not pass through these brain areas, which is why
housed within a green and pink glass bottle with just
olfaction is so successful at triggering emotions and
a hint of sweetness. I came across it at university
memories. Perfumers are quick to agree, “A perfume
while department store shopping in the midst of a
has the power to touch or communicate with us
bitterly cold New Zealand winter. The fragrances
because it resonates so strongly with our emotions,
featured notes of palm leaves, orange blossom,
memories and hopes,” says Christine Nagel, lead
passionfruit, lemon and bougainvillea took me
nose for Hermès.
straight back to days spent playing under the warm
Whether a keepsake boutique scent, an oil
spring sun in my family’s palm and bougainvillea-filled
purchased from a small local village or a signature
garden during my childhood in Bahrain, resulting in
fragrance worn by a loved one, a good perfume can
me spritzing it generously to lift my mood on gloomy
lift your entire mood, which takes us to the season’s
days. Lancome’s La Vie Est Belle was the next to pull
key scent groups. Ranging from strong, heady
at my heart strings. Worn religiously by my mother, I
scents that elicit visions of desert lands, to fresh
caught a whiff of it as I passed by a beauty counter
and energetic fusions evoking tropical hideaways,
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From left to right: Neroli Portofino Forte, TOM FORD | Heatwave, PRADA | Paradiso Assoluto, ROBERTO CAVALLI
134 as well as full bloom floral blends that conjure up picturesque vistas of flora-filled gardens, we explore the standout fragrances to wear this summer. The Garden of Delight: The season’s floral offerings
Coconut water lends a tropical touch which is warmed with sandalwood, praline and musk.
are incredibly feminine, sweet and refreshing recapturing bouquet notes of spring flowers. Valentina Pink by Valentino opens with notes of strawberry and blackberry before hitting the senses with sweet may and centefolia roses, rose buds and peony and is finished with opulent base notes of praline, cashmere and amber. Flowerbomb Bloom by Viktor&Rolf was developed as a fragrance synonymous with the bloom of spring. Led by refreshing pomegranate accord, bergamot and mandarin oils the scent gives way to freesia, damask rose and jasmine as well as a molecule that recreates the smell of fresh mountain air. Miss Dior Absolutely Blooming by Dior is a modern and passionate perfume featuring layers of red berries, centifolia, may roses from Grasse and peony, in addition to white musk. The Jetsetters: Exotic florals paired with luxurious vanilla and compelling sandalwood turn up the heat
From Left to right: Miracle of the Rose, PRADA | Night Call, EX-NIHILO | Amber Musk d’Or, AERIN
and whisk us away to far-flung holiday destinations.
Ode to Arabia: Powerful, sensual and incredibly
Paradiso Assoluto by Roberto Cavalli is an intense
sophisticated, this season’s oud offerings marry
and alluring scent reminiscent of a lush, tropical
the sweet, aromatic woody scent with silky and
garden. Notes of wild jasmine, wisteria and red
soothing notes.
lily mingle harmoniously with accords of vanilla,
Amber Musk D’or by Aerin brings together oud accords
sandalwood and patchouli.
with plush notes of magnolia leaves, muguet and
Heatwave by Prada perfume smells like a beach
rose centifolia. Coconut water lends a tropical touch
holiday housed within a mysterious dark glass
which is warmed with sandalwood, praline and musk.
bottle. Potent, unexpected and far from cliché,
Night Call by Ex Nihilo offers a Parisian perspective
the fragrance intends to encapsulate a humid,
on the region, blending roasted sesame and
nighttime island arrival, simulated through a
ambrette seeds with beeswax, gingerbread and
generous blend of night blooming flowers including
patchouli. Additional notes of benzoin resinoid and
jasmine, cereus and Artemisia.
roasted tonka bean results in a rich, heady scent
Neroli Portofino Forte by Tom Ford takes us on
reminiscent of the region’s hot summer nights.
an olfactory journey to the pristine coast of Italy,
Miracle of the Rose by Prada is part of the brand’s
utilising Italian woods and leather as its core
new unisex Les Mirages fragrance family. Drawing on
composition with notes of neroli, bergamot, blood
masculine chords of leather, agarwood and tobacco,
orange, lavender and basil.
Miracle of the Rose had a strong yet refined smell.
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M OJEH C u ltu r e
Minimalist M
o
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As a society we are slaves to consumption, but do our possessions empower or over power? Inspired by Danshari, the Japanese concept of decluttering, MOJEH makes sense of the ever-growing case for a more simplified existence.
Words by Laura Beaney
In Cat on a Hot Tin Roof, Tennessee
to purchase. We’re immersed, cradle to
Williams famously professed: “The human
grave, in ‘buy messages’ that, with greater
animal is a beast that must die. If he’s
psychological sophistication, misleadingly associate products we don’t need with
everything he can, in the crazy hope one
possessions that make us miserable?
feelings we deeply desire.” Indeed, it’s easy
of those things will be life-everlasting,
“I used to love collecting things. I owned
to fall into the advertising trap with the
which it can never be.” The accumulation
a thousand books, several hundred DVDs
misplaced belief that the more things we
of material possessions, and the attainment
and CDs, as well as dozens of cameras
have, the happier we will be.
of fame, wealth and power have become
for my photography hobby. At one point I
Feeling stressed, drained and tired of
the markers of success in today’s society,
even had my kitchen rigged up as a dark
comparing himself to his contemporaries,
used to define our self-worth, identity, and
room,” recalls Fumio Sasaki, a magazine
Sasaki came across the word ‘minimalist’
as a means to evaluate others. But what
editor and the author of Goodbye, Things:
and subsequently keyed in an image search
happens if we step off the treadmill?
The New Japanese Minimalism. “With so
on the web. “I saw pictures of minimalists
In Japan there’s a growing trend for
many things around, I couldn’t keep up
travelling around the world with just the
those who rebuke the current climate for
with the cleaning or maintenance, which
smallest amount of luggage,” he says.
conspicuous consumption, paring back
made me feel like a total failure. I stayed in
“They looked like the complete opposite
their existence in favour of a life without
the same apartment just because moving
of me, so free and liberated—which
all but the most necessary of possessions.
seemed too overwhelming; I felt as though
greatly inspired me.” Sasaki, the once
Influenced by the spare aesthetic
my whole life was stuck in a rut.”
passionate collector became immersed in
associated with Japan’s traditional Zen
There’s an undeniable fast pleasure
the movement and set about scaling back
Buddhism, its minimalists extol the
associated with showing off a new car,
his belongings that at one point amounted
benefits of a stringently simplified lifestyle,
watch, or electronic device and the
to just 150, including three shirts, four pairs
offering mental clarity, an enriched social
kudos afforded to a large diamond ring,
of trousers, a few pairs of socks and a
life, improved self-esteem and a unique
sizable house and expensive car are
scarce scattering of other items including
appreciation of happiness. But is it our
almost universally recognised across
kitchen utensils, a toothbrush and laptop.
cultures. “Every one of us is targeted as a consumer,” says April Lane Benson, Ph.D, New York psychologist and author. “We are pushed, prodded, and programmed
Images courtesy of Alamira Noor Bani Hashim, Fumio Sasaki and Getty photographed by John S Lander
got money, he buys and buys and buys
Taking cues from Japan’s Zen Buddhism, minimalists rebuke the tendencies of their rampant, consumerist society, dramatically paring back their possessions
Developed by Marie Kondo, The KonMari Method is widely regarded as a new approach to decluttering, based on Japanese values in order to surround yourself with items that spark joy
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Japan’s earthquakes and subsequent injuries from falling objects might be part of the reason the country has become a hotbed for minimalism
Alamira Noor whose known for her innate sense of style and exquisitely simple yet sophisticated approach to interiors believes a decluttered space allows her to decompress and begin each day with a ‘clean slate’
Looking to interiors, in Dubai, a city once culturally loaded with decadent detail, the new generation are seeking to redefine the spaces that surround them.
More recently, he moved from his small
and soul,” says Ellen Bishop of Bishop
Tokyo set-up to a larger space in Kyoto,
Interior design. When starting from scratch,
where he has increased his inventory to
Bishop advises beginning with a solid
300 items, including a real bed.
base of colours. “Within the same colour
Sasaki honed his own approach but
usonian household, he was surrounded
scheme you can create a comfortable and
there’s many types of minimalists. Marie
by floor-to-ceiling glass walls, open-floor-
an appealing atmosphere where you are
Kondo’s famed method of organising is
plans and exposed construction details.
able to relax,” she notes. “I would then
known as the KonMari method. Rather
This fascination was further fuelled by the
recommend keeping adornments simple,
than focusing on what you’re letting
inventor’s affinity for Zen Buddhism, a
clean and tidy. I believe that if you want to
go of, in her book, The Life Changing
belief reflected in everything from Apple’s
simplify your life, you have to survey your
Magic of Tidying Up, the focus is upon
clean-cut branding to Jobs’ unwavering
surroundings. Group accessories in three’s,
what you choose to keep. Her process
commitment to wearing the same outfit –
that way everything appears more uniform -
consists of gathering together all of
a pair of Levi 501s and a black turtleneck.
it gives you the feeling of a composed and
one’s belongings, scrutinizing them, one
Looking to interiors, in Dubai, a city once
decluttered home,” she explains.
category at a time, and keeping only
culturally loaded with decadent detail, the
Minimalists place a lot of emphasis on the
the objects that ‘spark joy’. Her school
new generation are seeking to redefine
connection between their leisure time,
of thought advises practices such as
the spaces that surround them. “Seeing
happiness, and pared back approach.
ridding oneself of clothes that no longer
mess truly gives me anxiety,” admits
Freedom is one crucial component of
fit well or which never actually suited
Alamira Noor Bani Hashim, the co-founder
leisure, which is generally conceptualised
you, and while parting with these items,
of Dinner Club 57 whose known for her
as being free from obligation, constraint,
considering what they have offered,
clean, minimalist approach to both sartorial
and ultimately, uninhibited by our
whether that be a fleeting moment of
and interior style. “I’m an incredibly visual
choices. By reflecting on the purpose
exhilaration at the moment of purchase
person, always inspecting and studying the
and potential for the possessions we
or a lesson learnt about personal style and
smallest details of everyday objects, so by
gather and the importance we place on
clothing preferences. The same applies to
the end of the day, I’m mentally exhausted,”
them, we have a chance to revaluate our
unfinished books that could be considered
she explains. “Coming home to a space
sense of freedom. This is, of course, a
barriers to better, more captivating
that’s minimal and purposeful, allows me
problem that only the privileged must
reads that enhance our leisure time.
to decompress and begin every morning
consider, but there are many individuals,
Another famous purveyor, Steve Jobs, was
with a clean slate.”
like Sasaki, for whom ‘stuff’ carries a lot
said to have found his love for simplicity in
When considering a home or lifestyle
of weight and in this sense, may prohibit
his childhood home. A space inspired by
change the most overwhelming question
us from evaluating what truly matters.
Frank Lloyd Wright’s vision for a puristic,
is usually: How do I begin? “Growing up in Norway, I’ve always been surrounded by the beauty of Scandinavian households, characterised by simplicity, functionality and minimalism, but crucially, personality
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E xt r a o r d ina ry Phot og r aph y
Beyond The Lens With online fashion films pushing the boundaries of communication ever further, how is photography continuing to flourish in the digital age?
Words by Annie Darling
Naomi Sims draped in a scarf, photographed by Irving Penn in New York City, 1969. Penn’s portraits are renowned for their minimalist composition that pays great attention to detail. Image courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, and The Irving Penn Foundation
Academy Award-winning actress Audrey Hepburn with her Yorkshire terrier, lovingly photographed in 1963 by Cecil Beaton; who intimately documented the rich and famous from the 20th Century. Image courtesy of The Cecil Beaton Studio Archive at Sotherby’s
142 One of the most influential British-born fashion
which hosts 800 million unique visitors each month.
photographers of the 20th Century, Cecil Beaton
For spring/summer09, Viktor&Rolf became the first
captured Academy Award-winning actress Audrey
major label to stage a web-only runway show, while
Hepburn’s unparalleled beauty, iconic style and
SHOWStudio, founded and directed by Nick Knight,
irrepressible charisma in one lone photograph. In
regularly produce online fashion films in collaboration
it, she balances on an ordinary bicycle, with one
with multiple cutting-edge creatives.
alabaster-coloured slipper on the pedal and her
Ben Carino, executive director and content creator at
beloved Yorkshire terrier, named Assam, earnestly
Mad Genius Productions, agrees that utilising these
nestled in a wicker basket. Hepburn’s remarkable
new mediums is both convenient and advantageous to
smile beams from underneath her thick brunette fringe,
the industry, predominantly because they make luxury
which peeks out from beneath her sky-blue headscarf.
fashion more attainable to the masses. “Fashion is,
It’s a snapshot in time, a brief moment in history, but
oddly, the most interactive and accessible form of art
looking at that image, one can almost feel the sultry
there is. But it’s also one of the most elitist.” Moving
California sun and hear the eclectic commotion from
images in particular, he argues, are more interactive
Paramount Studios, where Hepburn was filming the
and add to a brand or magazine’s overall connectivity.
eagerly anticipated musical, My Fair Lady.
“In the era of social media, it has been proven that
It’s extraordinary that a single photograph can
moving pictures definitely have more engagement
continue to evoke such emotion and imagination,
and a bigger impact when compared to stills,” he
especially when the rapid ascent of digital video in the
explains, but that’s not to say that society’s long-
fashion industry has introduced other, arguably more
standing demand for photography has diminished.
remarkable, communicative vehicles for creatives.
Take Facebook, for instance, which is one of the largest
“Photography will always be popular,” insists Joanna Ling, head of Cecil Beaton Studio Archive and cocurator of the first exhibition in the Middle East to showcase the acclaimed artist’s impressive images. “Photographers like Beaton will always be influential because he was an innovator.” To be successful, industry giants must remain ahead of their time; a memorable photograph goes far beyond capturing good-looking women in stylish clothes. The likes of Richard Avedon, Guy Bourdin, Helmut Newton, and Irving Penn significantly surpassed the curve in the fashion trends of their respective eras. Steven Meisel and Terry Richardson, for instance, have launched the careers of innumerable models, stylists and makeup artists with their keen eye for talent, while Mario Testino has shot countless celebrities including Naomi Campbell, Kate Moss and the late Princess Diana of Wales. German photographer, Ellen von Unwerth’s quirky stills seamlessly merge old-world charm with a modish seduction, as demonstrated in MOJEH Issue 19’s photo shoot, entitled Joie De Vivre. Having fully embraced the digital evolution, Unwerth’s Instagram feed is loaded with scarlet-lipped supermodels frolicking in Alpine meadows. It seems that, far from threatening a fashion shutterbug’s role, advancements brought about by the digital age can complement and potentially popularise still images further. Video from runway shows – captured by the established media, as well as a new generation of bloggers brandishing video-enabled mobile phones – now reach a global audience almost instantaneously. Social media platforms have made the process of sharing fashion content immeasurably easier, and various luxury fashion brands are tapping into videography’s abundant potential. Chanel, for example, has over 800,000 subscribers on YouTube, having cashed in on the concept of making branded content for various online sites. More than three billion videos are viewed per day on the video-sharing platform,
Audacious and adventurous, Federico de Angelis has worked with the best shutterbugs in the fashion industry, including esteemed portrait photographer Mario Testino. For the Sheer Love of Fashion, photographed by Federico de Angelis, MOJEH Issue 3
An embroidered silk tulle dress (above), and an embellished asymmetrical gown (below), CHANEL HAUTE COUTURE. The Craft, photographed by Marco Cella, MOJEH Issue 31, is a collection of exquisitely detailed imagery that superbly highlight each garment’s breathtaking delicacy
144 Fashion enthusiast Éric Guillemain has worked with German film director Peter Lindbergh – who is well known for his memorable cinematic still images – and has photographed the likes of Vanessa Paradis. Around Midnight, photographed by Éric Guillemain, MOJEH Issue 3
Italian-born Giulia Noni has a talent for constructing distinctive narratives within her imagery, which take the audience on a journey of discovery, imagination and individual interpretation. She shoots for various high-profile editorial clients. 70’s, photographed by Giulia Noni, MOJEH Issue 2
146
Extravagance and added eccentricity are fearlessly merged as Federico de Angelis experiments with drama and theatrical expressionism in this daring landscape-driven photoshoot. Affairs of the Estate, photographed by Federico de Angelis, MOJEH Issue 4
photo archives in the world; users have uploaded more
have plunged by 17 per cent, while sales of physical
than 20 billion pictures to the site.
books have increased by 8 per cent, according to the
Sharpness and exceptional clarity are two other
Publishing Association. There’s something decadent
distinguishing elements that separate the likes of
and self-indulgent about an image-suffocated coffee-
photography with moving imagery, as demonstrated
table volume: you can turn down a corner or crack the
in MOJEH Issue 31’s photo shoot with Marco Cella,
spine, and flick through the glossy pages.
dubbed The Craft. Painstakingly embroidered
An element of nostalgia was present throughout
garments in silk tulle and satin can be captured in
Beaton’s magnetic career, during which he captured
exquisite detail when taking stills; a much needed
the most prominent public figures, from the Queen of
ability considering the extraordinary effort and multiple
England to Marilyn Monroe, often with extraordinary
elements a single piece of clothing may showcase.
extravagance and theatrical panache. “Beaton’s
Federico de Angelis, meanwhile, effortlessly traps bold
photographs are an insight into a past time that lots of
colour and structure while retaining the exemplary
people don’t really know much about,” contemplates
detail and scope of landscape scenery.
Ling, as she gestures to the black and white framed
Ling affirms that fashion stills will always be highly
portraits that adorn Sotherby’s Dubai’s white canvas
sought-after because living in a fast-paced world
walls, many of which feature the likes of Andy Warhol
has encouraged a renewed aesthetic appreciation
and Elizabeth Taylor. Beaton’s fascination with the past
for an unembellished art form. Just a few years ago,
– unlike his penchant for purchasing grandiose 18th
the Kindle and iPad were being blamed for the death
Century manor houses burrowed deep into the sleepy
of the traditional book, but figures show a dramatic
English countryside – adds to the medium’s long-lasting
reversal of fortunes. Sales of consumer ebooks in 2017
appeal, in addition to its modest ability to recount the biography of either a person or an entire decade. Viktor Sloth is a self-taught fashion and music video director who splits his time between Los Angeles and Denmark, often on behalf of MOJEH. “The attention to and desire for video is rising all the time in the fashion industry,” he says. “People that don’t follow the trend are holding onto the past.” It is remarkable how ordinary photographs have the power to evoke memories, even false fantasies, and while digital technology has proven irresistible, the power of photography continues to prosper. “People often ask whether videography is killing the ‘photography star’. It hasn’t. And I think it never will,” insists Carino. The two mediums, he argues, cannot be compared or substituted for the other. “There are still print magazines, and posters, and billboards to be filled with good-quality fashion photographs,” he points out. “Photography has that ability to capture one moment,” says Sloth, before admitting that it will, therefore, “always have a place.” Be that as it may, he’s convinced that contemporary technology such as videography has a greater ability to “evoke a stronger feeling than an image”. “An extra dimension is added [to a fashion still] with just a slight movement,” he explains. “If it were possible for us to flick through some of Richard Avedon’s work in a book, and see a slight movement from the model, or the wind in her hair, would we not prefer that?” Perhaps, but it seems stills remain the most iconic conveyor of fashion, as evidenced last year when Avedon’s portrait of Marilyn Monroe was auctioned at Sotheby’s for AED 369,000. Although technical advancements have proved complementary to this long-standing medium, it seems the sheer simplicity and refinement of fashion photography retains its
Acclaimed style icon and relentless partygoer, Ellen von Unwerth blends luxurious passé with a uniquely provocative eroticism. Absurdity meets sly subversion in her carefully orchestrated still images. Joie De Vivre, photographed by Ellen Von Unwerth, Issue 19
popularity as an unrivalled means of artistic expression. “Photography is an established art form,” concludes Carino, “and it has already proved its longevity. It will continue to be what it is for years to come.”
148
M OJEH W o man
Five Minutes With Charlotte Dellal We sit down with designer Charlotte Olympia to discover her summer travel plans, beauty secrets and her most cherished pair of shoes.
When you’re not working: I’m a mum of three, so when I’m not working I’m most definitely with my children. As a working mother when you’ve got free time you just want to be with your family | Most treasured moment: Being outside of London in the countryside with my family. As I get older I enjoy doing that more and more – we go most weekends now | Career highlight so far: It’s a dream to have a business doing something that I love for a living, not many people can say they love what they do. Opening my first store was a huge career highlight and subsequently opening stores around the world. Collaborating with MAC and Barbie have been real milestones, too | Most important diary date for June: My birthday, I relish it! I’m the kind of person that
Interview by Mary Keenan
counts down to my birthday and celebrates all week. I’ll have a party too | Travel plans for summer: Every summer as soon as the kids break up for school we do a week in Capri, it’s a family tradition. Aside from that I haven’t got any for once | Best beauty secret: Taking off your makeup – no matter what, no matter when, I’ll always take my makeup off and cleanse my face. My mum taught me that | Favourite way to start the day: It’s a contradiction of sorts, it’s either not being woken up so early by my kids or waking up with all my babies in bed with me. I love to wake up with curtains open and the natural light streaming in | Biggest achievement of 2016: I started doing London Fashion Week which was very exciting and something that I’ve always wanted to do. It’s a bit different doing it as an accessories designer, but it was a great platform to really show the inspiration behind the brand and the collection plus it was so much fun. It was inspired by 1940s musicals that I love | Flats or heels: Heels, always | Go-to designers: There are a lot of really great new designers out there that I find myself wearing such as Isa Arfen, Saloni and The Vampire’s Wife, but also established brands such as Dolce&Gabbana, Prada, Max Mara, Carven, Rochas, Sonia Rykiel and Tatanaka. I have an aesthetic I gravitate towards because I’m old enough now to know what I like; I look for what I want rather than brand names | Lipstick shade: Ruby Woo and Russian Red by MAC and Leading Lady Red from my own collaboration with MAC last year | Dish to cook: I’m not the biggest cook as my husband cooks a lot. But it would have to be hummus sabzi as my motherin-law and husband are Iranian | Your most cherished pair of shoes: I’m a sentimental person so I collect all my children’s old shoes. They’re the things I’d save from a fire.
Photographed by Raymond Patrick at Getty
As tradition, the designer spends the start of each summer in Capri with her family
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F i n al N ote
Hit Refresh Fruity notes and fragrant floral blends work to entice the senses this season with revitalising light mists. Miu Miu’s newly launched L’Eau Bleue captures wild rose, jasmine and lily of the valley in a refreshing aroma, while Elie Saab’s Le Parfum Resort Collection blends notes of Italian red mandarin, pomegranate and orange blossom.
Photographed by Borna Ahadi, styled by Sophie Pasztor
Top to Bottom: Le Parfum Resort Collection, ELIE SAAB | L’Eau Bleue, MIU MIU | Terre de Lumière, L’OCCITANE
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