INFLUENTIAL Fashion
N°56 2018
Art
Activism
Tod’s Boutiques • Dubai: Mall Of The Emirates The Dubai Mall, Fashion Avenue - Galeries Lafayette, Level Shoe District Abu Dhabi: Marina Mall - The Galleria Al Maryah Island
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TO BREAK THE RULES, YOU MUST FIRST MASTER THEM. THE VALLÉE DE JOUX. FOR MILLENNIA A HARSH, UNYIELDING ENVIRONMENT; AND SINCE 1875 THE HOME OF AUDEMARS PIGUET, IN THE VILLAGE OF LE BRASSUS. THE EARLY WATCHMAKERS WERE SHAPED HERE, IN AWE OF THE FORCE OF NATURE YET DRIVEN TO MASTER ITS MYSTERIES THROUGH THE COMPLEX MECHANICS OF THEIR CRAFT. STILL TODAY THIS PIONEERING SPIRIT INSPIRES US TO CONSTANTLY CHALLENGE THE CONVENTIONS OF FINE WATCHMAKING.
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16 Chairman SHAHAB IZADPANAH
EDITORIAL
PUBLISHING
Editor in Chief MOJEH IZADPANAH
Managing Director IVAN DONCIC
Managing Editor NATASCHA HAWKE
Brand Manager KELLY BALDWIN
Features Editor ANNIE DARLING
Sales Director NADINE CHEHABEDDINE
Senior Editorial Assistant SOPHIE PASZTOR
Digital Sales LAURA SOBH
Editorial Intern SHAIKHA ENGINEER
Senior Publishing Executive DESIREE LABANDA-GAVERIA
Guest Fashion Stylists ANNA SCHILLING MASHA MOMBELLI INA LEKIEWICZ STACEY CUNNINGHAM
Administrative Executive MINA TAGT Paris Representative GHISLAIN DE CASTELBAJAC Advertising Inquiries Tel: +971 4 553 90 49 Email: advertising@mojeh.com
ART Production and Creative Direction MOJEH MAGAZINE
Subscription Tel: +971 4 553 90 49 Email: subs@mojeh.com
Art Director AMIRREZA AMIRASLANI
LOUIS FOURTEEN FOR MOJEH
Graphic Designer BALAJI MAHENDRAN
Concierge Service Management DAISY MARCHANT
Contributing Photographers BORNA AHADI ELENA LUKYANCHUK WENDY BEVAN RUI FARIA AURELIA LE DANILO HESS
Published under HS Media Group FZ LLC Registered at Dubai Design District Building No. 8, Offices 212 P.O.Box 502333, Dubai, UAE.
Cover photographed by Wendy Bevan Model wears Louis Vuitton
WWW.MOJEH.COM Louis Fourteen for MOJEH Follow us on Twitter @MOJEH_Magazine MOJEH Swiss Representative Office: Rue de Rive 4, 1204 Geneva, Switzerland Average qualified circulation (January-June 2016): 12,275 copies. For the UAE printed by Emirates Printing Press LLC. Distribution- UAE: Al Nisr Distribution LLC. Bahrain: Jashanmal & Sons BSC (C). Oman: United Media Services LLC. Lebanon: Messageries Du Moyen-Orient The publishers regret that they cannot accept liability for error or omissions contained in this publication, however caused. The opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessary those of the publishers. Readers are advised to seek specialist advice before acting on information contained in this publication which is provided for general use and may not be appropriate for the readers particular circumstances. The ownership of trademark is acknowledged, therefore reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. All credits are subjects to change. Copyright HS MEDIA GROUP FZ LLC 2011
18 CONTRIBUTORS HAFSA LODI, American, Fashion Journalist
MASHA MOMBELLI, Russian, Stylist
Based in Dubai, Hafsa has a passion
St. Petersburg may be her hometown,
for design that began at a very young
but Masha lives in London and travels
age. Today, she puts pen to paper for
the world as a freelance stylist. She
various fashion publications, including
contributes to numerous magazines
MOJEH, having written A New Approach
and has styled commercially for both
to Modesty on page 98.
musicians and fashion brands.
Who has inspired you the most? My grandmother — she married into
What inspires you? I am inspired by a body of work that someone
a big family, was the wife of an admiral of the Pakistani Navy, and has
has created over the years, whether that be Maison Martin Margiela,
always been composed, diplomatic and glamorous.
A.F. Vandevorst, Vivienne Westwood or Yohji Yamamoto, for example.
What makes a person influential? A person who is truly influential
What do you expect will be influential in 2018? A feeling of compassion
earns the title because of their innovative ideas and ambition. Humility
for each other.
is a nice bonus.
Favourite book? Little Prince by Antoine de Saint Exupéry.
Favourite fashion collection? I’m still obsessing over Moschino’s My
Favourite character in a movie? Clarice Starling from Silence of
Little Pony capsule collection. I was overjoyed to see the icon from my
the Lambs.
childhood on the runway in Milan and bought myself a T-shirt.
Where are you travelling next and why? Hopefully Russia in May to
Describe your style in a nutshell? My wardrobe is made up of wallpaper
shoot a story.
florals, distressed denims and sneakers.
What’s important to you? Feeling emotions towards things.
Where do you hangout? Far away from neon lights, loud music and
Where do you hangout? Hackney Wick in London. My other half is
rowdy crowds.
a good cook and we have great parties.
RUI FARIA, Portuguese, Photographer Leading beauty photographer Rui Faria is praised for his ability to capture emotion in each image. Educated in Boston, Obsédée avec le noir, photographed by Rui Faria. Styled by Masha Mombelli. MOJEH ISSUE 56
America, as well as the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York, he photographed Obsédée avec le noir, on page 152. Where does your inspiration come from? My son is my source of inspiration, he always pushes himself to the limit, and strives to be the best. Two days ago he was awarded a PhD by the university of Bristol. I now have to call him Dr. Algar-Faria. Describe your style in a nutshell? Casual and tasteful. Favourite book? It’s a toss up between One Hundred Years of Solitude by Gabriel García Márquez, and Garden of Eden by Ernest Hemingway. Favorite character in a movie? Andy Dufresne in The Shawshank Redemption, who was played by Tim Robbins. Where are you travelling next and why? I’m flying to Vienna to shoot an advertising job. What’s important to you? Loyalty and respect — sadly it’s in extremely short supply these days. Which photographers have inspired you? I became a photographer because of Eyes of Laura Mars, which featured fashion photographs by Helmut Newton when I was studying art in New York.
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FANTASY FASHION
As Saint Laurent opens a new store in Dubai,
44
Anthony Vaccarello tells MOJEH why investing in
a dream piece is more important than ever
CRUISE CONTROL One half of Latin-inspired label Borgo de Nor, Carmen Borgonovo, tells MOJEH what shapes her colourful collections
60
WAYS TO WEAR: BLOCK COLOUR
70
Allow paintbox brights and no-nonsense shapes to be
the building blocks of your summer wardrobe...
THE FUTURE IS FEMALE Be it in business, sport, fashion, activism or art, here in the Middle East, these women push further and rise higher, making their way to the top of MOJEH’s list of inspirational individuals
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92
MODEL CITIZENS In an age of protest, it is no longer enough for women to walk the catwalk anonymously, as social media
98
breeds a new kind of socially conscious influencer
A NEW APPROACH TO MODESTY Islamic Fashion Design Council (IFDC) founder Alia Khan seeks to fill gaping holes in the fashion industry by creating a retail category for modest-wear
108
DELIVERANCE Summer at the House of Dior is cemented by the feminine
150
ideals of creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri, in which
both functionality and freedom roam free
FAMILY BUSINESS Gaia Repossi discusses the House of Repossi’s latest boutique opening in Dubai, as well as the brand’s customers in the Middle East
164
THE EVOLUTION OF EASTERN BEAUTY
Once influenced by iconic historical figures, Arab
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beauty enthusiasts are now inspired by the region’s
social media-savvy bloggers
FRAGRANCE’S FORMIDABLE FORCE
Spanning seasons and crossing geographical borders, there are certain perfumes that break the rules, remaining untouched by trends
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A ROOM WITH A VIEW
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Looking for inspiration? These destinations offer aesthetic
interiors and views that will feed the imagination
THE DECISION MAKER
Tunisian curator Myriam Ben Salah speaks about her background, curatorial practice, and relationship with Art Dubai, having just coordinated this year’s edition of the prestigious Abraaj Group Art Prize
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EDITOR’S LETTER
What does it mean to be influential today? Who and what are we influenced by? These questions have cropped up time and again around the MOJEH office, so we decided to dedicate an issue to who we find influential, essentially redefining what an influencer is, in our eyes at least. The term itself has become closely affiliated with that of the social media star, she with thousands of followers and plenty of style, but with today’s focus being on activism and female empowerment, we are championing the women that are using their knowledge, following and social standing to provide a positive message, whether that be body confidence, environmental campaigning, or simply excelling at what they do and supporting other women to succeed the same way. In The Future Is Female on page 70, features editor Annie Darling interviews 37 of the region’s most impressive women. From the inspirational sportswomen Dareen Barbar, who lost her leg to bone cancer at the age of 15, and Raha Moharrak, the first Saudi female, and youngest-ever Arab to conquer Everest, to the incredible activist voices of Elissa Freiha, Zeina Abou Chaaban and Audrey Tcherkoff who are all playing important roles in campaigning for social and environmental change. This 22-page feature is the core of this issue and I hope you take the time to read and be inspired by each one of their stories as I have been. Throughout the rest of the magazine, every person, from Adwoa Aboah to Afef Jnifen, to the beauty, fashion and the fragrances, have all been carefully chosen to represent what we find influential, and I am sure you will love it. I hope the issue can inspire you to be the purveyor of your own positive message, and in Ghandi’s words, “Be the change you wish to see in the world.” Follow me on Twitter and Instagram @Mojeh_I and write to me at editor@mojeh.com
Mojeh Izadpanah Editor in Chief
Photography: Borna Ahadi, Portrait of Mojeh by Hana Levan
REDEFINING INFLUENTIAL
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STYLE NOTES
THE MOJEH EDIT Dream up poised perfection with a well-manicured look comprising sleek silhouettes and a subdued colour palette
1
4 2
3
1. ASCENO at THE MODIST | 2. ALEXANDER WANG at SHOPBOP | 3. CÉLINE | 4. ASCENO at THE MODIST | 5. SALVATORE FERRAGAMO | 6. PORTS 1961 at THE MODIST | 7. COLIAC | 8. MAX MARA | 9. CHLOÉ
5
7
8 9
Compiled by Sophie Pasztor. Photography: Elena Lukyanchuk at The Factory ME. Stylist: Sophie Pasztor
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NAME DROPPING Christian Dior encourages tastemakers to say it loud and proud, by flaunting its name across everything from bags to shoes.
Shoes and bag, DIOR
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BALENCIAGA
SIGN LANGUAGE Balenciaga sports a new identity under the creative direction of Georgian designer Demna Gvasalia, whose inspiration for the label’s in-your-face branding is public transportation signage.
TRADEMARK Fendi redefines its iconic double-F monogram as a coveted status symbol, which is emblazoned across bags for heightened impact.
FENDI
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SAY MY NAME J.W. Anderson’s spring/summer 2018 collection is unabashedly daubed with his logo for added street appeal.
J.W. ANDERSON at NET-A-PORTER
BURBERRY at LEVEL SHOES
STREET TALK Hit the ground running in Burberry’s white Doodle Print Leather Sneakers – a bold revision of a weekend staple.
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LOUIS VUITTON
MINDFUL MONOGRAM Louis Vuitton’s archived monogram is reimagined with a contemporary silhouette for envyable style.
NAME GAME The Guccy Mini Shoulder Bag takes on a hybrid of influences with nostalgic references to ’80s arcade games in a comical retaliation to counterfeiters.
GUCCI
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SAINT LAURENT
STATUS SYMBOL The iconic logo says it all. Saint Laurent’s Structured Tuxedo Box Bag is the perfect place to house evening essentials.
STYLE EDIT
WALK DOWN TO FASHION AVENUE...
The Dubai Mall’s new Fashion Avenue extension is a veritable feast of luxury brands. From Aquazzura to Bottega Veneta, Gucci to Saint Laurent, here’s everything you need to know...
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FASHION FIESTA! Dubai’s fashion landscape just got more exclusive and it looks something like this...
It’s been years in the making, but at the end of last month The Dubai Mall’s Fashion Avenue finally opened its shiny new, three-tiered, one million square-feet extension, unveiling a plethora of new boutiques and a new face of luxury fashion in the region. With more than 150 brands debuting new spaces, from Miu Miu and Prada, to Balenciaga and Missoni, it is an exciting, and Instagramfriendly, new place to spend hard-earned cash. As with everything in Dubai, the opening comes with some exclusives and regional firsts: Bottega Veneta are showcasing some special accessories available to buy only in this particular store; Gucci’s 1,000 square-metre, triple-floored flagship introduces its first DIY service in the region, allowing customisation of new purchases, and at 976 square-metres, the mall can also proudly say it is home to the largest Hermès boutique in the region, where loyal customers can experience the bespoke sur measure service for the first time. Other notable launches are Loewe, Balmain, Isabel Marant and Lanvin, with the world’s favourite footwear arriving from Aquazzura (the brand’s first store in Dubai), Rene Caovilla and Roger Vivier. The new extension also summons the anticipated return of homegrown fashion emporium Symphony, which has opened its doors to an elegant new space to house its expert edit of labels, from glorious gowns by Oscar de la Renta and Alexis Mabille, to divine shoes and accessories. Then, of course, there’s the jewellery: Cartier, Mikimoto, Repossi, Monica Vinader, Boucheron and Fabergé, all regional favourites, have also found new residences on Fashion Avenue, and it’s fabulous.
Photography: Courtesy of Gucci by Altamash Urooj, Hazem M, Kaveh K. Gorunway.com
THE EXPERENCE
The new entrance to Fashion Avenue in The Dubai Mall
Over 150 luxury brands have opened new boutiques in The Dubai Mall’s Fashion Avenue extension this month, among them you will find a glossy new Gucci store, a new Miu Miu boutique and exclusive names like Isabel Marant, Balmain, Dolce & Gabbana, Roger Vivier, Lanvin, Bottega Veneta, Missoni and Loewe packed into the glamorous new shopping destination
Edgardo Osorio, founder of Aquazzura
THE COLLABORATION
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IN HIS SHOES When fashion and interiors collide, the result can be breathtakingly beautiful. You can expect no less from an alliance between Aquazzura’s Colombian shoemaker Edgardo Osorio and Parisian bespoke wallpaper label, de Gournay, who have partnered yet again after their lucrative collaboration last spring. A pale shade of millennial pink was the hue of the duo’s initial chinoiserie pattern, which featured palm leaves, toucans, parakeets, butterflies and blooms. This season, the tropical characters have made a return on a backdrop of teal, in a new range of limited-edition wallpapers and shoes. “When we started working on the design, we were looking at 18th Century illustrations by Albertus Seba and the work of Spanish artist Juan Gatti,” Edgardo tells us. ‘Amazonia’ is the name of the collaborative print, which is now displayed in one of the rooms of Aquazzura’s Milan headquarters. “After the incredible success and reaction of the first collaboration,
which sold out in two days, many clients were still asking for it, so we decided to make a new edition based on the colour of the de Gournay wallpaper I have in my apartment in Florence,” says Edgardo. “I was literally obsessed with de Gournay’s wallpapers and fabrics, and chose one of their beautiful wallpapers to adorn the entrance of my apartment, which I wanted to look like a little winter garden.” The striking, hand-painted foliage, topped with botanical buds and whimsical fauna, is reminiscent of traditional Chinese artistry, and the picturesque, jungle-inspired garden scene pops uniquely against the new teal colour. In wallpaper form, the illustrations are enthralling, and the corresponding shoes that flaunt the print are equally covetable. Six different shoe styles comprise the footwear collection, including a knotted heeled sandal with a ribbon tie intended to climb the ankle of its wearer, a tie-up pointed flat adorned
Photography: Courtesy of Aquazzura. Words: Hafsa Lodi
Not one for the wallflowers, Aquazzura’s Edgardo Osorio talks to MOJEH about his latest collaboration with de Gournay, and the importance of women to his work
From top: The Amazon pump and the Amazonia loafer, AQUAZZURA
“
I have always designed for strong women and have been an advocate for equality. I employ 80 per cent women, most of my managers are women. Edgardo Osorio
with a matching teal tassel, a buckled, sling-back pump, a summer slide, a loafer and a trainer. Due to the popularity of the original collaboration, this time, Edgardo incorporated a slip-on and ballet flat into his Aquazzura Mini line for babies and girls. Fancy footwear, according to the Aquazzura founder, is not about being pragmatic, but rather, about the emotional anticipation tied to shopping for a new pair of shoes. “Buying a pair of shoes represents a moment when you buy fashion not because you need it, but because you want it,” he says. “For me, the Aquazzura woman wants to enjoy life, dance and have fun. I think women want shoes that excite them and make them dream.” Though Aquazzura shoes are unapologetically decorative, Edgardo says that comfort remains key. “I believe in creating shoes that both empower and make a woman beautiful, which is why comfort is so important in my work,” he says. “I have always designed for strong women and have been an advocate for equality. In my office I employ 80 per cent women, most of my managers are women.” Charismatic, successful women are a constant influence to Edgardo, whose previous collaborations have been with Poppy Delevingne and Claudia Schiffer. “These women are one-of-akind, they are strong and determined in everything they do; they represent the modern women I design for, all so different from each other, all so unique,” he says. Edgardo reveals that his vision for the future is as eclectic as his aesthetic, and that he’d like to broaden the scope of his brand. “I firmly believe that lifestyle is the key to convey the real message of a brand and to truly engage with its customers,” he says. “One of the objectives in the near future is to become a lifestyle brand, launching soon men’s shoes and then other product lines including eyewear, fragrances and more.” The Aquazzura x de Gournay collection can be found in the new Aquazzura store at Fashion Avenue, The Dubai Mall The Amazonia print by de Gournay in Aquazzura’s San Francisco showroom
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PROTESTS À LA PRADA
THE COLLECTION
There’s an underlying revolutionary mood to the summer designs by Miuccia Prada, who is setting a new benchmark for power dressing There’s an unfortunate stereotype that is attached to women who participate in marches, parades or protests, and it has to do with their lack of stylish outfits. They’re either army soldiers, dressed in camouflage uniforms, politicians, dressed in primary-coloured suits, or offbeat activists, dressed in dishevelled, grungy clothing. But amid the political unrest currently plaguing our world, and powerful push-back by outraged advocates for change, Miuccia Prada has proposed an alternative revolutionary dress-code for spring/summer 2018. Her collection this season was designed for the woman who can be “active and present today,” she said to the press after her Milan show. “I am suggesting militant women in a very practical way, through clothes, which is what I do.” Prada’s spring/summer 2018 show was powerful, motivating and devoid of subtleties. Models strutted down the catwalk dressed in work blouses tucked into patent leather skirts with utilitarian pockets, finished off with studded belts. Jacket lapels were oversized with dual tones, trousers were designed with wide cuffs, and tailored shorts were offered up as empowering garments for the contemporary woman. And in true Prada style, trendy trenches were paired with knee-high socks and spikey brogues. Prada’s spring/summer 2018 woman means business — but that doesn’t make her mean. She has a sense of humour, shown in her liking for patchwork prints, thrift shop buttons sewn onto panels of shorts and jackets, and banana-shaped earrings. She’s open to sporting polka dots and zebra stripes, and sometimes she’ll even layer a brocade dress or bow-topped bustier, over a pinstriped shirt. It’s this pulsating eccentricity that takes Prada’s expertly-tailored designs to the next level. And one of the highlights of the fashion house’s latest range is the way that the work of contemporary cartoonists is woven into clothing and accessories. Much of the collection showcases layers of graphic prints created by female manga artists and cartoonists, and it’s the heroines from these images that were Miuccia’s muses. Snippets of the spunky illustrations, many of which are completed with a speech bubble that reads ‘Prada’ in bold lettering, feature on the season’s It bags for both women and men and are captured in an accessories campaign called ‘In the Cities’, shot by Belgian photographer Willy Vanderperre in Los Angeles. Accessories are a key retail category of the Italian fashion house, and while comic-strip characters are plastered across some of the brand’s latest purses and shoes, the season’s utilitarian theme is reimagined in another range of bags too. Black nylon, naturally, is the material of choice, appearing on satchels, crossbodies, backpacks and bum bags, and adorned with strips of punky metal studs. These timeless pieces punctuated with steely, grunge-inspired elements will no doubt appeal to millennial consumers who seek practical purses, coupled with the timeless Prada aesthetic. Along with other key designs of the season, they will be available at the new Prada boutique in The Dubai Mall’s Fashion Avenue, opening at the end of this month. Whether you’re lobbying to invest in a coat decorated with comic-strip prints, a studded nylon bum bag or merely a pair of knee-high Prada socks, you won’t have to rally hard.
Photography: Gorunway.com. Words: Hafsa Lodi
THE FOCUS
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Clockwise: Anja Rubik, Kaia Gerber, Jamie Bochart and Ana Arto all wear Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello
FANTASY FASHION
Photography: Courtesy of Saint Laurent. Words: Natascha Hawke
As Saint Laurent opens a new store in Dubai, Anthony Vaccarello tells MOJEH why investing in a dream piece is more important than ever
Taking on the role of creative director of an establishment like Saint Laurent, the famous fashion house founded by the legendary Yves and credited with being the birthplace of eternal style icons such as Le Smoking, Anthony Vaccarello has big shoes to fill, and so far he is nailing it. For the spring/summer 2018 collection, Anthony composed a simple narrative of Paris and of Yves Saint Laurent: “Nothing more than that,” he says. Shown just after the passing away of the house’s co-founder Pierre Bergé, who died peacefully at his home in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence on September 7, 2017, aged 86, just three weeks before the show, the collection was unveiled against the magnificent backdrop of the Eiffel Tower — nothing gets more Paris than that. Models stomped an open runway in fashion that was nothing if not Parisian in its energy: the leather, the sequins, the ostrich feather knee-high boots that exposed lashings of leg, all told an exciting tale of a night of passion and expectation in the City of Lights and it has
fast become one of the most coveted collections of the season. With a new store opening this month in The Dubai Mall’s Fashion Avenue extension, Anthony told MOJEH what he wants to give the modern Saint Laurent woman. “I want her to have fun, she’s not depressed. She has fun in life,” he explains. “I want to bring together a vision that mixes freedom, confidence and chic. To me, those values embody what a modern woman wants from her clothes.” And right he is. In a world focused on female empowerment, fashion is about more than just looking good. It is about how it makes you feel, and should be worth the investment. “You need more than just clothes. Today, you can buy clothes everywhere, any time, everything is just a click away. That’s why creating a dream, an attraction, a strong vision, something that gives a true purpose and a unique feeling to what you buy is more important than ever.” Go on, follow your dreams all the way to Saint Laurent.
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THE HIGHLIGHTS
AHOY! KAPTAIN KARL If you hadn’t noticed, accessories this season are all about fun: arty accents, silly slogans and loud logos are the order of the day. Karl Lagerfeld’s cute Kaptain Karl collection brings tongue-in-cheek chic to fashion and accessories just in time for summer with a nautical-inspired portfolio of bags and easyto-wear daytime separates – think rock ‘n’ roll meets riviera. At Karl Lagerfeld boutiques and Karl.com KARL LAGERFELD
THE MUST-HAVE
BELT UP
Here they are, the new sneakers of the season. Undeniably cool and fun in equal measure, the new Prada sneakers borrow the cute comic-inspired illustrations that washed over the spring/summer collection. Available now at Prada boutiques
Christopher Bailey’s final bow could never have come without the introduction of a new bag. The Burberry Belt Bag, inspired by the iconic trench coat and its waist-cinching belt, is an appropriate swan song for the man who made Burberry cool again.
BEST OF BRITISH Celebrating everything quintessentially British in the new spring/ summer 2018 collection, Mulberry borrowed influence from Edwardiana, Ascot Ladies’ Day, garden parties, and afternoon tea to inform its fashion and accessories. The eccentric pairing of prints, race day hats and trouser suits, and, of course, the essential leather goods, made for an exciting new direction for a house that has needed it desperately. The new Lynton bag in Antique Ruby Croc with its decadent ruffles is one accessory to covet this season. MULBERRY
PUMA X SOPHIA WEBSTER
STREET STYLE Everyone’s favourite for fantasy footwear, Sophia Webster has revisited a collaboration with Puma for the second season, bringing magic back to sportswear. Think enough rainbow glitter to put a unicorn to shame, the first drop is in stores now, while the second arrives in May. At Puma stores and Puma.com
THE INTERVIEW
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Carmen Borgonovo (left) and Joana de Noronha wear Borgo de Nor’s spring/summer 2018 collection at Ounass.com
CRUISE CONTROL One half of Latin-inspired label Borgo de Nor, Carmen Borgonovo, tells MOJEH what shapes her colourful collections
Photograhy: Borna Ahadi. Hair and make-up: Blowout & Go. With thanks to the Bulgari Resort Dubai
Words by Kate Wills
Carmen Borgonovo, 45, strides into our shoot at the Bulgari Hotel exuding effortless glamour alongside a no-nonsense practicality. It’s a powerful combination of flair and function, and one that’s entirely apt given that her debut dress line Borgo de Nor celebrates women who are both “master and muse”. Today, at a VIP event with Ounass.com to launch the new capsule collection, Carmen and her partner Joana de Noronha will celebrate creating the holy grail of every woman’s wardrobe — a dress that’s versatile enough to wear at a chic beach bar as it is a city wedding. Carmen met her co-creator through her Italian husband. “He knew Joana through mutual friends,” she recalls. “I had heard about her, and she had heard about me, but we had never met until she was setting up her own swimwear showroom, Barefoot Chic. She called me and said will you come in and consult with me and some of my brands. Once we started working together, we realised that it just worked really well.” Joana had previously worked for Diane von Furstenberg and Heidi Klein. “We started looking at the market, and I always felt there was a niche in the market for dresses which are holiday to city, city to beach, to weddings and parties, but are not at a price point that is painful.” Their combined experience made it a seemingly-easy transition to launch their own label. Carmen, who emigrated to Miami as a child to escape El Salvador’s civil war — started as an intern at New York’s glossy fashion magazine Mirabella, working her way through the ranks to stints at Harper’s Bazaar and Vogue. In 2004 she moved to Milan to become creative director for Hogan — part of the Tod’s group — and fashion director at the London-based e-commerce site MyWardrobe.com.
46 “I worked in editorial on and off for 20 years, and when I worked for Hogan for four years in Italy I really lived that factory production life,” she recalls. “I’d sleep twice a week in the factory, so that informed me about what it takes to produce a line. And when I was with MyWardrobe.com as a buyer, that really taught me what sells. Then with Joana’s expertise on sales, it all just came together and now flows really well. We had enough knowledge and confidence and experience between us to launch it.” With their connections they were also able to tap into advice from friends in high fashion places. “I’m very close with Thakoon, he’s a really dear friend of mine and he has been really supportive,” she says. “Katherine Holmgren [cofounder and CEO of Galvan], was incredible. She was so open with all the information she could give me. And I used to consult with the Palmer Harding boys and they were very helpful. It’s great to see how close everyone in the industry is.”
BORGO DE NOR
Carmen says her Latin heritage was a key inspiration behind the label’s fantasy-orientated prints and designs. “Frida Kahlo was one of the women that inspired us,” she says. “I’m Latin-American and Joana is from Portugal so we can relate to the use of colour, her life, spirit and independence. A lot of the designs come from art. I’m really inspired by the women in the surrealist movement and their spirit. They’re independent and very strong and the prints are very bold, and I think it has a lot do with capturing that beauty and fierceness.” Borgo de Nor’s custom-designed prints are floral and feminine, but with a quirky edge. “It can be a floral explosion, with a sundial and then it has these little lips,” says Carmen. “The more you look at these prints, the more you discover. It’s magical. The sundial I discovered on my trip in Turkey and I thought this is beautiful and we have to turn this into a print.” Further inspirations include the Russian poet Anna Akhmatova and the artist Leonora Carrington. “I don’t think you should ever make one thing the only thing in your life, because that can be quite damaging,” she says. “I think it’s important to try and keep a balance. I think it’s good to take a break from what you love sometimes so you can come back to it refreshed. Even if it’s reading books, going to concerts. It’s good to keep your mind open to all kinds of stimulation.” As befits their own diverse backgrounds, Borgo de Nor’s customer base is incredibly global. “Most of our customers are in Europe, the Middle East and the States,” she says, adding that Dubai seems like a natural fit for her dresses. “Dubai seems like a bit more of a polished Miami. I think there’s something really elegant about dressing in a more modest way. Our brand is good for the Middle East because of the colour, and because it’s not overtly sexy. Less is more and I think the Middle Eastern woman is really beautiful in that way, the way she covers herself. I adore Queen Rania’s style, she’s so beautiful.” Although the brand works with influencers and harnesses social media, they prefer to work organically. “It’s incredible how much the fashion industry has changed in the past 10 years,” she says. “I do think fashion influencers and magazines and designers all need to co-exist together — they [influencers] have changed the way fashion is. Social media is an incredible platform for us, it’s our way to market our image. We have worked with influencers but they’re more friends of ours. We also want for them to want to wear our dresses.” Of course, Carmen herself is something of a muse for her own label. She says that she loves to wear the dresses by day with gladiator sandals, flatforms or trainers — “really modern and very wearable”. And by night she simply pairs them with “just beautiful strappy heels.” It might not be too long before those heels are being designed by her own hand. “The plan is to go into separates, expanding into costume jewellery handbags and shoes. We want to create a whole world of Borgo De Nor.” The Borgo de Nor capsule collection is available exclusively at Ounass.com
FRESH START Clare Waight Keller's first collection for Givenchy unveils a fresh new look and some covetable accessories As the fashion world mourns the loss of one of its greats due to the recent passing of Hubert de Givenchy last month, the brand itself is celebrating the arrival of its newest creative director Clare Waight Keller. Arriving in Givenchy stores this month is the highly-anticipated first collection from British designer Clare Waight Keller, former creative director of Chloé. Inheriting the Parisian fashion house from Riccardo Tisci, who held the position of creative director for 12 years before her, Clare is tasked with breathing new life, and likely a new direction, into the brand that Riccardo is credited with reviving into one of Paris’s most coveted. For her debut collection shown during Paris Fashion Week last October, LVMH pulled out all the stops in anticipation of all eyes being on the show by securing the Palais de Justice as the show space. Never used before, and now exclusive to the house for the next three years, it set the scene for a collection that had all the hallmarks of her signature aesthetic in the romantic and feminine dresses shown towards the end, but with a darker, more rock ‘n’ roll approach materialising in
the strong shoulders and leather trousers (perhaps to avoid too sudden a departure from Tisci’s own gothic influence). She looked to the Givenchy archive for her overall inspiration, something that Riccardo Tisci never did, and referenced Hubert de Givenchy’s focus on graphic prints. Showing up as lips on skirts, animal prints on dresses and graphic florals — the shoulders were boxy and structured, slimming the waist and narrowing the hips, resulting in a powerful finish to otherwise feminine pieces. The accessories were the epitome of cool, unsurprising following her success with key styles at Chloé, and she revealed a new bag style in the GV3, named after Givenchy’s original address on Avenue Georges Cinq, and championed the belt bag worn over military coats and skinny trousers that has already been spotted on all the street style aficionados at this season’s shows. As a debut collection it has everything that can be expected in references to the past, and a fearless new direction that has all the hallmarks of a successful tenure.
THE LOOK
GIVENCHY
48 NEW LOOK CAVALLI For his debut collection as the new creative director of Roberto Cavalli, Paul Surridge has taken the DNA of the Italian fashion house known for its bohemian, sometime garish, glamour and brought it bang up-to-date. Still there is the appreciation for body-con and the wide-leg trouser suits destined for nights on the glamorous Italian riviera, but all with a sophisticated, on-point athleisure vibe that appeals to everyone. From Cavalli’s glitterati of the past, to the millenial customer of the present and future, the spring/summer 2018 collection is a breath of fresh air.
The Peter Pilotto x Neous shoe collaboration has arrived online exclusively at Shopbop.com
THE NEW
ROBERTO CAVALLI
SALVATORE FERRAGAMO
IT’S A CINCH The waist is this season’s erogenous zone and the belt bag is its biggest fan. Seen in a myriad of eventualities from the retro ‘fanny pack’ at Gucci, to sleeker shapes at Kate Spade and Givenchy, but the cutest variations are from Salvatore Ferragamo where miniature top handle bags with the on-point metal hardware were linked onto thick, waist-cinching belts.
THE MOOD Clockwise from top left: Zimmermann; F.R.S For Restless Sleepers at Bloomingdale’s-Dubai; Jason Wu; Alice + Olivia; bag by Valentino; jacket by Zayan The Label at Bloomingadale’s-Dubai; boots by Cushnie et Ochs at Bloomingdale’s-Dubai; Alexander McQueen
BLOOMIN’ MARVELLOUS Romantic florals, bold blooms and painterly prints create a soft summer wardrobe that will bring out your softer side
Spring has sprung, summer is on its way and so out come the flowers. As expected, the spring/summer 2018 collections are awash with florals as designers use the excuse of warmer weather to put pretty finishing touches to their collections. Alexander McQueen, Dolce & Gabbana, Valentino and Rodarte, all masters of a bold bloom, chose the romantic route with which to take their collections — all lace and embroidery with whimsical accents fit for a fairytale and just in time for wedding season.
But it’s not always romance that is on the cards where florals are concerned, Roksanda, Alice + Olivia, Ganni and F.R.S For Restless Sleepers all went head-totoe pyjama-style in matching separates drenched in blossoms that offer an aesthetic that works for both day and night, smart or casual, depending on the mood. Back home in the Middle East, strong florals come from designer Zayan Ghandour who put the power back in flowers with a bomber jacket that pays homage to the current taste for athleisure.
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BAGS OF STYLE
THE BAGS
As the face of just about everything at the moment, Kaia Gerber is also happily demonstrating the eternal chic of Chanel bags. Fronting the spring 2018 handbag campaign, here she is in Coco Chanel’s apartment nonchalently posing with the Gabrielle Hobo bag, this season available in a palette of fresh mint, white and navy blue tweed.
CHANEL
FENDI
THE NEW PEEKABOO If you’re looking for something sweet yet chic to hang off your arm for the new season then look to an old favourite that has been reimagined. Fendi’s iconic Peekaboo Essential bag has been shrunk down to a more sociable size, maintaining the sophisticated glamour of the original but with a lighter load. It can also be worn crossbody, which will suit those on the move.
MAX MARA MANIA Jumping on the bandwagon of logomania, Max Mara has gone back to its roots for spring/summer 2018 by returning to its original logo from the 1950s. Drenching bags, shoes and fashion, #maxmaragram as it is affectionately called is set to sweep social media thanks to its instantly recognisable print and the timeless classics it adorns. At Max Mara boutiques
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NEW SEASON
MIDDLE EASTERN STYLE We’re rounded up our favourite regional designers who are soon to become go-to names on the global style radar
SEMSEM THE EDIT
Fronting the spring/summer 2018 campaign is Halima Aden and Zoe Barnard, who gracefully showcase the diversity echoed by SemSem. The brand encourages female empowerment, and this season, they are taking this initiative even further, theming the collection around love and tolerance. Championed with pieces such as the inclusion of a T-shirt with the Arabic word ‘hob’, translating to love, SemSem’s new range juxtaposes key wardrobe staples with contrasting statement pieces to offer added versatility. Exploring the rich vibrancy of Marrakech, through an energetic colour palette of purple, red and orange, alongside grounding neutral tone. Glamorous sequins intersperse sumptuous silk fabrics for occasion dressing, while other casual fabric such as denim and cotton position themselves for daywear. At Semsem.com
LAMA JOUNI Taking cues from the ’90s, Lama Jouni showcases her expertise in merging exceptional tailoring with functionality for her ‘Back to Basics’ collection. Utilitarian style pockets and detachable belts add to the urban aesthetic, appealing to the working woman who is constantly on the go. Elongated silhouettes offer a contemporary update, while sequin jackets transport you from day-to-night with ease. At Lamajouni.com
MADIYAH AL SHARQI Candy-coloured pastel add a playful element to Madiyah Al Sharqi’s spring/summer 2018 collection. The designer took a shift from her signature style of occasionwear to something a little more street. The line-up included a range of trench coats, trousers, midi skirts and turtle blouses which can be easily interspersed throughout your current wardrobe. Although changes in the silhouettes were visible, Madiyah remains true to her feminine aesthetic, opting for shiny satin panels and romantic design details. At BySymphony.com
AMIRA HAROON
NOON BY NOOR Using their home country, Bahrain, as the main source of inspiration for their spring/summer 2018 collection, Shaikha Noor Al Khalifa and Shaikha Haya Al Khalifa dreamt up a truly elegant collection. Synonymous for fusing western and eastern elements into a dynamic collection, through thoughtful embellishments. Made up of a predominantly monochrome palette with the exception of red and purple flashes and a feminine ladybug print. Silhouettes revealed an androgynous element, seen through their wide leg trousers and menswear inspired shirts. At BySymphony.com
Embracing femininity wholeheartedly, Amira Haroon used her designs to empower, with shirts emblazoned with ‘you are every woman’ slogans. The collection presented a nostalgic nod to the ’80s, showcasing a hybrid of disco designs with shimmering sequins, printed denim and retro cuts. The collection exuded glamour and presented an ode to the designers Middle Eastern roots though the incorporation of rich hues encompassing deep greens and burgundies. The result? An array of modest yet elegant shapes from jumpsuits to skirt and tunic dresses and stylish short suits. At Ounass.com
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BY FALOOY If you’re looking to introduce colour into your wardrobe, look no further than Kuwaiti brand’s By Falooy’s bright and cheery kaftans. Graphic prints and decorative florals sing to warmer weather while edgy cuts add a contemporary aesthetic. The collection makes an ideal choice for the fast approaching Ramadan season, thanks to their modest silhouettes. The collection’s airy lightweight fabrics make them both a practical yet stylish choice for the region’s soaring temps. At Thouqi.com
AYESHA DEPALA
DIMA AYAD X HAULETIC
A firm favourite for a dressed-up-but-down aesthetic, Ayesha Depala’s new collection nails the day-to-night pieces you wish for in your wardrobe. Think chic frills and smart combats that will look great worn with flats, or into the night in heels. Building 9, Shop 108, D3, Dubai
The Lebanese designer’s signature sense of glamour makes an appearance in her new collaboration with Hautletic. Metallic accents cap shoulders, line pants and trim jackets on chic athleisure separates. At Hautletic, Galleria Mall, Dubai
ZAYAN THE LABEL When asked about what it means to be a Zayan The Label woman, Zayan Ghandour conveys, “She is not afraid to express herself and be her own person.” The designer shares her admiration for powerful women, and who she finds the most inspirational. “The women who create the blueprint for the future; the dreamers and innovators who see beyond what is considered possible, and make it happen.” For her spring/summer 2018 collection, she was inspired by Princess Gayatri Devi, the last Maharani of Jaipur. “She broke the mold in so many ways and was not afraid to forge her own path”. Drawing on her strength and translating it into her collection, through statement pieces and structured designs. Colours appeared bold with thoughtful references to Jaipur’s lush landscapes through feminine floral embroideries, inspired by Indian folkloric motifs. At Ounass.com
DONNA HOURANI Donna Hourani pays homage to her grandmother with her Jaroor el Teta collection. The sentimental range is designed around simple, domestic items which she uncovered as a child. The charming pieces are sure to add a playful touch to any look. At Donnahourani.com
ENDEMAGE Dive into the blue with Endemage’s aquatic-inspired collection. Using Oman’s Arabian Gulf as an anchor, the designers took reference from colourful aquatic colours and intricate corals. The 15-piece collection nails occasionwear dressing with romantic details such as intricate metallic embroideries, glistening beading and a range of sea-inspired motifs. Keeping true to the brand’s feminine DNA, designers Lubna and Nadia Al Zakwani showcased their elegant design aesthetic with floor-grazing dresses, in soft pastel hues for supreme sophistication. At Ush Boutique
56 KALYAH The current landscape in the East has provoked Nora Aldamer to create a forward-thinking collection that, like many designers around her, is triggered by the East meets West mentality. “The Kalyah spring/ summer 2018 collection is inspired by the contradiction we are experiencing as women in this region, you can clearly see the western modernity in the middle eastern silhouettes”. Loose-fitting tunics and layered dresses form the make-up of the collection, bringing a contemporary interpretation of the traditional Saudi abaya with jovial prints in colourful hues for a chic summerready collection. At Ounass.com
TALLER MARMO Bordering on the whimsical, Taller Marmo’s new collection offers up sensual sheer fabrics and spirited embroidery. Exposing dresses were layered under white button-down shirts and bold knits, while juxtaposed prints added a modern touch. At TheModist.com
ELSA O Looking for some statement jewellery to complete your look? Well Elsa’s Ya Leil Ya Ein collection has you covered. Inspired by nights, music and love, her designs are unabashedly bold and are in keeping with her distinct vintage charm. Stunning Swarovski stones are molded into half moons, hearts and evil eyes to create colourful accessories that will carry you from day-to-night with ease. The eclectic range includes earrings, bracelets and her signature brooches, designed to elevate any look.
SUMMERTIME SUITS
Photography: Courtesy of Arwa Al Banawi. Words: Hafsa Lodi
ARWA AL BANAWI
“The suitable woman” is how Saudi designer Arwa Al Banawi describes her recurring muse. “It’s a play on words, so suit as in the suit, and suitable as in she’s the right woman,” Arwa explains. When she first emerged on the fashion scene in 2015, it was with a collection of brightly patterned suits for females, and since then, the suit has remained a key silhouette for the Saudi designer. “Power suits have always inspired me,” says Arwa. “We feel empowered when we’re in them, and I wanted to make suits that are both effortlessly cool and elegant at the same time, redefining the classical pantsuit and giving it an urban twist.” Last year, for spring/summer 2017, her approach was kitschy and playful – one suit was printed with ice cream and rainbow motifs, while others were crafted from a palette of baby pinks and luxurious mint greens, trading in trousers for shorts. This season, Arwa’s prints of choice have roots in the ’80s, and her black-and-white polka dot, and teal-and-orange star-patterned suits are given relaxed, pyjama-style cuts. Cheetah prints are incorporated into the range, appearing on sporty, two-piece sets and on a dramatic, trailing gown. There are gingham jackets with frayed hems and sporty, wide-leg trousers in bold, red-orange hues. Through one look, embellished with zig-zag stripes of teal sequins, Arwa shows how even the most casual garment shapes – drawstring trousers and hooded sweatshirts, can evoke glamour for the modern-day millennial. The title of the spring/summer 2018 collection is ‘Banat’, the Arabic word for ‘daughters’, and it’s scrawled across T-shirts, hoodies, jackets and trouser legs – a signature Arwa Al Banawi mark, as her previous collections have shown text spelling out ‘the suitable woman’, and ‘hayataha’, the Arabic word for ‘her life’, on T-shirts and jacket lapels. Arwa’s personal style is heavily influenced by athleisure, and last autumn, she created a capsule collection called P.E. by Arwa Al Banawi, which was launched by Adidas Originals in Dubai Design District. Arabic slogans saying ‘you get me but you don’t’ were written on pieces in the athleisure collection, which also included a slouchy, abaya-inspired dress. “I design for a woman whose style is very urban, chic and a bit masculine, so I make pieces that I know fit her lifestyle, keeping in mind of course the modest styles, because I’m also Saudi and I know we need more options to layer and dress in a certain way,” explains Arwa. Though her clothes appeal to a wide audience, Arwa has remained committed to her roots, and to the requirements of her Middle Eastern clientele. The brand is often present at showrooms during Paris Fashion Week, and is a regular at Fashion Forward Dubai, but Arwa’s home country gets first dibs on the unveiling of her next collection. “For autumn/winter 2018 I skipped Paris Fashion Week because I am showcasing at the first Riyadh Fashion Week in Saudi Arabia and I want to give them that honor by showing my collection there first,” she says.
THE ONE-TO-WATCH
Dubai-based label Arwa Al Banawi continues to inject fresh energy into the classical suit silhouette
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ON THE STREET
ALL WHITE ON THE NIGHT
White pointed ankle boots are set for summer when mixed with prints
White block-heel boots add height to oversized denim
Once questionable, now very much on-point, white shoes are back in all their forms. From Louis Vuitton’s cruise 2018 collection Fireball ankle boots to Victoria Beckham’s kitten heels, take inspiration from the street on how to wear yours.
Make monochrome your thing in black leather with white knee-high boots
Above: Louis Vuitton’s white Fireball ankle boots worn with straight-leg denim
Colour blocks look great worn as layers
Add colourful accents for ease
ORANGE IS THE NEW BLACK Pops of colour give energy to an all-white ensemble
Images: Gorunway.com
Lashings of orange layers make for an impactful look
Burnt umber and apricot, via butterscotch or zesty brights, orange is the new black. Worn against white to make it pop, or layered for a full punch of colour.
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WAYS TO WEAR:
BLOCK COLOUR Allow paintbox brights and no-nonsense shapes to be the building blocks of your summer wardrobe... Photography by Maha Nasra Edde | Styling by Stuart Robertson
Top, STELLA MCCARTNEY | Earrings, BAUBLEBAR at Bloomingdale’s - Dubai
Athleisure was born to be colour-blocked. Top, GIVENCHY | Skirt, RAMY BROOK at Bloomingdale’s-Dubai | Sunglasses, GIORGIO ARMANI
Make Saint Laurent’s ostrich feather boots pop against a blank canvas of white or bold colour. Dress, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN | Boots, SAINT LAURENT
The key to colour blocking is not to overcomplicate. Add a touch of clash with a colour pop accessory. Top, STELLA MCCARTNEY | Earrings, BAUBLEBAR at Bloomingdale’s - Dubai
Add dimension to a total colour wash in Dior’s feminine pleats for ladylike allure. Dress, DIOR
64Keep a silhouette sleek for maximum impact. Top and trousers, DIANE VON FURSTENBERG | Earrings, GIORGIO ARMANI
Embrace logomania in Givenchy’s statement light layers. Jacket, GIVENCHY
Hair and make-up: Katharina Brennan at MMG Artists Model: Agustina at Niche Models Creative producer: Savana Christy Production: 8th Street Studios
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FASHION IN FOCUS
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7 6 STAR IN SEQUINS Designers prove that a touch of sparkle shouldn’t be limited to eveningwear. Elevate casual cottons with shiny sequin embellishments for an unlikely, but highly impactful, union.
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1. A.L.C at THE MODIST | 2. IN THE MOOD FOR LOVE at OUNASS | 3. NICHOLAS KIRKWOOD | 4. MAISON MARGIELA at MATCHESFASHION | 5. OSCAR DE LA RENTA | 6. ERDEM at MATCHESFASHION | 7. OSMAN at THE MODIST
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ROCKING RUCHING Structured separates lay down the groundwork for the season’s power dressing. Navigate between clean lines, robust construction and a minimalist palette for sophisticated style. 1. ROKSANDA at MATCHESFASHION | 2. NORMA KAMALI at NET-A-PORTER | 3. MIU MIU | 4. OFF-WHITE X JIMMY CHOO at NET-A-PORTER | 5. TIBI | 6. OSMAN at OUNASS | 7. MARCO DE VINCENZO at NET-A-PORTER
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7 1 2 DENIM DOMINATION Designers reimagine our trusted fabric staple, denim, with new vision. Opt for distressed variations that add a dose of off-duty style to this season’s streetwear.
1. RE/DONE at NET-A-PORTER | 2. SJYP at NET-APORTER | 3. BALMAIN at LEVEL SHOES | 4. ALEXANDER WANG at OUNASS | 5. DIOR | 6. NATASHA ZINKO at MATCHESFASHION | 7. SOLUDOS at THE MODIST
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TALKING TASSELS This season’s tassels will have you twirling your way through spring, as they are decoratively adorned on everything from earrings and shoes to dresses and handbags. 1. PRADA at MATCHESFASHION | 2. ELLERY at MATCHESFASHION | 3. MIU MIU at LEVEL SHOES | 4. J.W. ANDERSON at HARVEY NICHOLS - DUBAI | 5. CORNELIA WEBB at NET-A-PORTER | 6. ELISABETTA FRANCHI | 7. OFF-WHITE X JIMMY CHOO at MYTHERESA
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Photography: Borna Ahadi. Stylists: Natascha Hawke and Sophie Pasztor. Photographer’s assistant: Princes Vinarao. Stylists’ assistant: Shaikha Engineer. Hair and make-up: Sisters Beauty Lounge. Furniture: Cities Design, Art and Lifestyle Store
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THE FUTURE IS FEMALE
Be it in business, sport, fashion, activism or the exclusive world of art, here in the Middle East, these women push further and rise higher, making their way to the top of MOJEH’s list of inspirational individuals Words by Annie Darling
From left: YARA TLASS, founder of uSfuur | ELISSA FREIHA, co-founder of Womena | ZAINA KANAAN, cofounder of Chari-Cycles | RANIA KANAAN,co-founder of Chari-Cycles | AUDREY TCHERKOFF, vice-president of the Positive Planet Foundation | ZEINA ABOU CHAABAN, founding partner and managing director of Palestyle
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Elissa wears jacket and skirt by Alice + Olivia, dress (worn underneath) by Eileen Fisher both at Bloomingdale’s - Dubai, shoes by Area Forte (her own)
WOMEN WHO CAMPAIGN
ARE MORE ACTIVISTS THAN EVER BEFORE DEMANDING SOCIALDEVELOPMENTINTHE MIDDLE EAST? The world is finally coming up to speed on the power of women in all aspects of public life, and women in the Middle East are no different from the rest of the world’s most inf luential females. In 2006, Tarana Burke coined the phrase ‘Me Too’ as a way to help women who had survived abuse and violence. Fast-forward more than 10 years, and the phrase has recently been reignited as a slogan of the anti-harassment movement that was triggered by accusations against media mogul Harvey Weinstein. Born and raised in Beirut, Lebanon, Sarah Beydoun designs handbags and accessories that are well known for their craftsmanship. Sarah’s unconventional journey in fashion began when she was conducting research at Dar Al Amal, an NGO that rehabilitates women at risk and female ex-prisoners. “I think the #MeToo movement has only just begun gathering
steam,” she says when asked about how women are using social media platforms to advance social causes. “I think it will continue to feed into a larger and broader global women’s movement that will tackle unequal pay, outdated laws that discriminate against women, and violence against women.” Sarah set up her business, Sarah’s Bags, in 2000 with the mission to empower underprivileged women. She adds about the #MeToo movement: “This was beautifully exemplified by the wildly successful women’s marches that took place around the world.” The Women’s March a year ago aimed to start a movement of women from all walks of life who would continue their activism long after they had gone home. For Zeina Abou Chaaban, who argues that “being heard” is one of the biggest challenges facing female activists, the importance of these movements cannot be underestimated. “Making a difference always gains opposition as most people and entities avoid change,” the director and founder of PaleStyle says. In 2009, the same year Zeina first visited refugee camps in Lebanon, she launched her label that’s been worn by the likes of Michelle Rodriguez and Eva Longoria. Refugee women weave the handmade embroidery that adorns PaleStyle’s leather handbags, which are completed with gold-plated Arabic calligraphy. Zeina reveals that she greatly admires Queen Rania of Jordan: “Her style, charisma, leadership, and social impact has echoed all around the world. Her Highness is the Queen of Social Activism.” It’s important to have regional role models initiating change, agrees Elissa Freiha, who is co-founder of Womena, an angel investment platform for female investors. “I admire the women who came before me,” she says. “Women who had to push against much harsher social norms to get to where they wanted to go.” Elissa has already climbed great heights in the business world, having spent much of her childhood in Paris, where her father Bassam Freiha worked for Unesco when she was growing up. “The energy is electric,” she says of the Middle East. “ The region has always been susceptible to radical change and it therefore breeds change-makers.” She does, however, acknowledge difficulties. “We place so much value on legacy and family honour,” says the Emirati, who is of Lebanese-American descent. “So it’s tough to rebel, or to go against the norm, because the pushback isn’t just towards you, but towards everyone in your clan.” Yara Tlass is the founder of Watanili, a grassroots
From left: Yara wears dress by Zero Maria Cornejo at Bloomingdale’s - Dubai, shoes by Stuart Weitzman. Audrey wears dress by Stella McCartney, shoes by Valentino
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The region has always been susceptible to radical change and it therefore breeds change-makers. Elissa Freiha
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From left: Rania wears top and trousers by Issey Miyake at Symphony, shoes by Stuart Weitzman. Zania wears blouse by Aje at Bloomingdale’s - Dubai, dress by Alexander Wang at Bloomingdale’s - Dubai, shoes by Stuart Weitzman
initiative that supports displaced Syrian communities through educational projects. Her fine jewellery brand uSfuur donates a percentage of its sales to various refugee communities across the Middle East. “I think there’s a lot of societal pressure when it comes to freedom of expression,” she sighs. “We tend to selfcensor to fit a certain image. There’s a lot of restrictions when it comes to freedom of movement.” “Women in the Middle East have a long history of activism through the work of NGOs and human rights organisations,” says Suad Abu-Dayyeh, who has worked with Equality Now since 2008. Prior to joining the organisation, Suad worked for 10 years with the Women’s Centre for Legal Aid and Counselling in Jerusalem, a feminist NGO that addresses genderbased violence in Palestinian society. “Changing attitudes and laws are slow processes.” “Although it is moving at a slower pace than we would like, I think there is a big appetite for female involvement in the workforce, for social change, and more importantly for conscious consumerism,” adds Zaina Kanaan who, after a summer spent cycling in Montreal, Canada, set up a social enterprise alongside her sister Rania to help children living in refugee camps. Chari Cycles sells up-cycled Japanese bicycle frames. The Palestinian-Canadian sisters also actively support other women working towards becoming independent businesswomen. But as movements evolve in the Middle East, those championing much-welcomed causes can often find themselves in trouble. “We are exposed to a wide range of threats and can face intimidation, harassment or imprisonment,” reveals Suad. “Some may even face death threats and have their lives placed in danger.” For Rania, she says that “accountability is key” when it comes to solidifying change. “From the smallest to the largest entities in society,” she explains, “more execution needs to be done. We are in a new space globally and even more so locally.”
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Women in the Middle East have a long history of activism through the work of NGOs and human rights organisations. Suad Abu-Dayyeh
“Let us also not forget that helping the less privileged and impacting change is a part of the culture and religion in the region,” adds Zaina. “It’s not something that’s new. But I believe people are more eager now to impact positive change in more ways than just donating to their favourite charities.” Audrey Tcherkoff has been the vicepresident of the Positive Planet Foundation since 2014. “The Middle East is a very creative space,” she concedes. “We’re increasingly seeing local activists addressing obstacles by spearheading innovative projects that engage, as well as inform, audiences on a particular issue.” Born in France and based in Dubai, Audrey comes from a family of entrepreneurs and thinks that it’s important that “all of us want to make a difference.” Success, she argues, comes from “the force of our personalities and the strength of overcoming barriers along the way,” which is lucky because there are plenty of fearless leaders, survivors and activists in the Middle East who are working to build a better future today.
Zeina wears jumpsuit by Vince at Bloomingdale’s - Dubai, shoes by Christian Louboutin
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From left: DAREEN BARBAR, motivational speaker, wears jumper and skirt by Tommy X Gigi, shoes by Adidas (her own). ENGY EL SHAZLY, first Arab hijabi ballerina, wears skirt by Smarteez at Bloomingdale’s - Dubai, shoes by Christian Louboutin. LANA FAHMI, contemporary dance instructor at Sima Dance Company, wears dress by Céline, shoes by Stuart Weitzman
It has long been accepted that being active creates social networks, builds mental and emotional health, and develops tactical and technical skills, not to mention physical strength. “Sport is such an important character-building tool,” insists Raha Moharrak. Born in Jeddah, Saudi Arabia, Raha made history by becoming the youngest Arab and the first Saudi woman to conquer Everest. Not long afterwards, she summited the seven highest mountains of each continent. “Sport teaches you how to respect yourself and others and how to be a team player. You also learn discipline, and good sportsmanship.” The benefits of being active empowers everyone, says Raha, not just women. “ These things are all important aspects of a child’s development, let alone an adult’s. When these traits are lacking, you find a lot of self-esteem issues, and difficulties in cooperating with others. Sport builds those things and it’s necessary for every child. I strongly believe that sport enriches a child’s character in such a way that it can never be replaced.” The advantages of sportsmanship surpass the personal, and have already had a great impact on the Middle East’s prosperity. “It’s no secret that there’s a lot of money and empowerment in sports. It puts cities on the map. It changes lives and careers. It can even be a political tool that builds bridges during conflicts.” A recent example, of course, can be drawn from this year’s Winter Olympics, which witnessed athletes from North and South Korea playing together for the very first time in history. The idea of a unified team was the brainchild of government officials from the two Koreas who met prior in the
heavily fortified demilitarised zone. Meanwhile, women’s sport in Raha’s homecountry has long been a controversial topic due to its disencouragement of female participation. That is, until recently. “Saudi has issued official licenses for gyms for women,” Raha eagerly educates. “My mother, for the first time in her life, entered a stadium recently. Most people don’t realise the power of seeing a sport live, it’s there that you fall in love with it.” Dareen Barbar agrees that the power of sport to connect and inspire is still second to none. “Sports is a universal language. It has empowered our women in the region and made them understood by the world,” says Dareen, who was just 15 when an aggressive form of bone cancer was diagnosed, leading to her left leg being amputated above the knee. “A lot of women lack body image confidence and that has a lot to do with the way media promotes perfect bodies,” she suggests. “Women have become insecure and are subsequently seeking social media validation.” In a 2017 study of almost 1,500 teens and young adults, it was discovered that Instagram is the worst social media network for mental health. The #StatusOfMind survey, published by the United Kingdom’s Royal Society for Public Health, found that several online platforms were associated with increases in depression and anxiety. “ The world is perceiving beauty as being perfect, which sets very high and unrealistic standards,” furthers Dareen, who is an athlete, gym instructor and inspirational speaker. “Athletes are role models, they are focused, disciplined and committed.” Dareen makes sure that her disability doesn’t get in her way. “Focusing on my disability has limited me in the past. Focusing on my abilities is what changed me and made me the woman I am today, investing in myself and making use of every talent and skill I have to grow and succeed in life. For me, disability is an extraordinary ability that makes the impossible, possible.” For Arifa Bseiso, Dareen’s sentiments hit home.
WOMEN WHO PERFORM
HOW CAN BEING ACTIVE OR INVOLVED IN SPORTS HELP EMPOWER WOMEN IN THE MIDDLE EAST?
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Sports is a universal language. It has empowered our women in the region and made them understood by the world. Dareen Barbar
“My favourite boxer Mike Tyson said: ‘Nothing is more humbling than getting punched in the face,’” laughs Arifa. “I have been humbled many, many times.” The Jordanian began boxing at the age of 23 after a friend introduced her to a kickboxing for fitness class. Three months after meeting her coach, Ayman al Nadi, she became the national boxing champion, and remains the face of women’s boxing in the Middle East. “Getting my hand raised after I won my first fight in 2009 made me feel like I can do anything,” she remembers. “Sports taught me how amazing it is to win, and how heartbreaking it is to lose. Most importantly, sports taught me to not put any limits on what I am capable of achieving, in both sport and in life.” Arifa hopes to see an increase in the region’s number of female athletes. “I did not have an athletic role model growing up,” she reveals. “ The increased athletic participation of women in regional and international sports platforms is really inspiring.” She adds that it’s important to, “break barriers and challenge stereotypes.” Which is what Egyptian dancer Engy Elshazly is doing. Engy first dreamed of becoming a ballerina aged 11, but didn’t take lessons until she was 27. She’s currently making history for being one of the few professional ballerinas to wear a hijab while performing. “My self-confidence has increased since I started to be a ballerina,” she smiles. “I became more positive and energetic.” The region, she says, is spearheading worldwide efforts to enable women. “I have met a lot of successful ladies in the Middle East that have broken boundaries and achieved their goals, which makes them role models for other women,” says Engy. “Not only does sport improve a person’s health, it raises self-esteem and boosts
academic performance. In this way, sports helps women gain economic independence and ensures success for their children.” Dancer Lana Fahmi also fell in love with the art form at a later age, when she was a first-year university student. “I was, personally, a very shy person when I started dancing at the age of 20. Being a contemporary dancer and choosing this art form as my career has made me a very determined, confident and passionate person.” She adds: “It is a great platform to convey deeper messages. It has the ability to touch peoples’ hearts and souls.” Hanan Mazouzi is founder of the first all-female supercar club in Dubai, Arabian Gazelles. “I always had a passion for driving high-performance cars, but never came across other women who shared the same passion,” she says about her motivation behind establishing the group. “I was always surrounded by chauvinistic men who assumed I was accompanying or sitting in a passenger seat,” she laughs. “So I set out to look for likeminded women who want to live this passion even though it’s unconventional.” Research has found that an interest in sport can be a force to amplify women’s voices, tear down gender barriers and discrimination. “I hope it [Arabian Gazelles] will help to change the existing motoring landscape,” says Hanan, “and encourage a driving culture among women in the UAE and in the region.” Women in sport have long defied the perception that they are weak and incapable, from Natacha Mohbat, Lebanon’s Olympic skier who has competed in Austria and America, to Emirati weightlifter Amna Al Haddad. Because everytime we kick a ball or swing a bat, we demonstrate leadership skills, and take another step towards gender equality.
From left: HANAN MAZOUZI, motivational speaker and founder of Arabian Gazelles, wears top and trousers by Tommy X Gigi, shoes by Timberland (her own). RAHA MOHARRAK, mountaineer, wears skirt by Gucci, top (her own), shoes by Christian Louboutin
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From left: AYSHA ALMOAYYED, artist, wears top, trousers and jacket by Stella McCartney, shoes (her own). TARSILA SCHUBERT, artist, wears top by Prada at Ounass, trousers by Smarteez at Bloomingdale’s - Dubai, shoes by The Nou Project. NINA VALJAREVIC, co-founder of Chi-Ka, wears top and skirt by Sacai at Bloomingdale’s - Dubai, shoes by Stuart Weitzman
“I see technology and social media as a form of art,” says Bahraini artist Aysha Almoayyed. Part of the Visa Collective, which is compelled by women’s rights and the free movement of people across national borders, Aysha believes that it’s important that creatives are able to tap into technology as an uncharted source of inspiration for their creative works. The artist furthers: “I don’t think that we [artists] are not maintaining art, culture and design because of it. Both technology and social media have become such a big part of our lives and our existence. It would be criminal not to explore it artistically.” “Technology allows art to evolve as a medium,” agrees Tarsila Schubert, originally from Brazil, who began her career as a street artist several years ago. She has gone on to work with the likes of Hermès, Pepsi and Sephora, and was notably the first woman to paint a mural in Jordan for the FIFA Women’s World Cup. “Many art and design techniques can be improved through technology and this allows us, as humans, to continuously improve upon what our predecessors have already done,” she says, before adding that it’s important these new techniques “accompany” and complement artwork, rather than act as replacements. Tarsila’s concerns aren’t unfounded. A few years ago 3D printing techniques were used by the Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam to create high-tech replicas of Vincent Van Gogh’s masterpieces. The threedimensional reproductions proved extremely popular, and there’s since been discussion about whether or not this kind of machinery could threaten the art market. Aysha is more positive about the impact that the digital world has had, and will continue to have, on her chosen career. Ever since she was a young girl,
Aysha explains that she considers art as an “escape” from everyday life. Advancements in hi-tech, she argues, simply opens up other creative channels that present additional opportunities and adventures. Aysha’s noteworthy exhibitions include the 45th Annual Fine Arts Exhibition in Bahrain where she was the youngest participant to win the Al-Dana Prize in 2015. “ Technology inf luences art in the same way any other subjects inf luence art. It’s a muse,” she says, and Nina Valjarevic agrees. Originally from Belgrade, Serbia, Nina launched her Dubai-based kimono abaya brand, Chi-Ka, alongside her husband in 2013, after the couple became inspired by the traditional kimono during a holiday to Japan. “ Technology has become a new medium for artists,” she reveals. “Artists are transitioning from traditional mediums like painting and sculpture, to digital art and 3D printing.” The digital revolution, Nina argues, has brought some much-needed transparency to this most opaque of luxury industries. “ Technology has become a new channel for artists and viewers,” she educates. “It’s now possible to share our art with the world, instantly, and to have it consumed through the simple swipe or click of a button.” This increased connectivity is important to the Middle East, in particular, says Egyptian interior architect Rania Hamed, who is founder of multiple awardwinning Dubai-based boutique firm VSHD Design. “Art, culture and design can have a very inf luential role in inspiring, empowering and enlightening a society,” she says, with unmistakable passion. “It is also a form of expression and a story-telling tool that documents who we are.” For example, in Spain’s La Pasiega Cave, once inhabited by the Neandertals, researchers have argued that even the most simple cave paintings — most of which date to more than 64,800 years ago — highlight artistic prowess that’s equivalent to the art and symbolism practiced by today’s creatives.
WOMEN WHO CREATE
IN WHAT DIFFERENT WAYS DOES TECHNOLOGY IMPACT THE WORLD OF ART?
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HALA SALHI, photographer, wears jeans and blouse by Tory Burch at Bloomingdale’s - Dubai, jacket by Etro, shoes (her own)
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The Middle East has a rich culture that has been influenced over the years by something I deem incredible: it has always managed to reunite cultures around the world. Tarsila Schubert
Born in Tehran, Golnaz Fathi acknowledges that art and technology have inf luenced one another for centuries. “If you look at early drawings in caves, you notice that they have used the technology of that day to paint,” she says. “Art is a pillar under which our society is constructed,” nods Tarsila. “The Middle East has a rich culture that has been influenced over the years by something I deem incredible: it has always managed to reunite cultures around the world.” While studying at university, Golnaz became fascinated by the expressive potential of traditional Persian calligraphic forms. She’s one of only a handful of women trained to the highest level within that discipline and, like Tarsila, is particularly proud of the Middle East’s art scene. “ The amazing thing about art, culture and design in the Middle East is that they have their own language,” she reveals, “which is not similar to the West.” In bringing together so many different practices, the Middle East brings together artworks that, too often, remain outside the mainstream of contemporary art showcased at international museums. “[Middle Eastern] artists have their own signature,” says Golnaz, and as the region’s art scene becomes
increasingly sophisticated, local buyers are more discerning than ever. “ There are absolutely great artists and designers in the Middle East who are not comparable to other artists around the world,” insists Golnaz, “because they have their own style, their own creation, and this is very important. They have the key to success because of their unique works.” Despite recognising that the art scene in the Middle East is forward-thinking, some of the creatives admit to facing career challenges that stem from the industry’s predetermined views about women. “Being a woman in my field was a challenge,” says Rania, “that required a lot of focus and perseverance.” For Lamya Gargash, who was the first Emirati artist to represent the UAE during the country’s first participation at the 53rd Venice Biennial in 2009, these hardships have only made her value her predecessors more. “I did not appreciate my own mother’s effort and struggles growing up until I had my own children,” she agrees. “I did not realise how difficult it was and what it entailed to raise children and strive to keep an independent spirit and run a household and, in my case, also cultivate and nourish my career.” Lebanese designer Nada Debs, who currently lives in Beirut, Lebanon, reveals that being a woman gave her the determination that she needed to be successful. “It has been an asset being a woman,” she says about her own experience in the art world, “because in general women are less prominent in the region.” There’s little doubt over whether gender bias is still an ongoing problem in the visual arts, not unlike other industries worldwide, but Nada believes this can be used to a woman’s advantage. “We have more freedom to work on ourselves, and better ourselves,” she says, “because often the attention is usually on the male leaders in this field.” An interesting thought; if Nada is right, the region’s male creatives had better watch out.
RANIA HAMED, founder of VSHD Design, wears jeans by Stella McCartney, jacket by Alexander Wang at Ounass, shoes by The Nou Project
WOMEN IN FASHION
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HOW DOES THE LUXURY FASHION INDUSTRY IMPACT WIDER SOCIETY? Fashion itself is a ref lection of social, economic, political and cultural change. It has always been an important part of how people define themselves and, as such, it’s long been a powerful tool of inf luence. “Fashion is our life. It’s our state of mind,” says Saudi designer Arwa Al Banawi, who spent much of her upbringing in Switzerland. Travel has been an important part of Arwa’s life, and has heavily inf luenced her designs, which often feature sharp tailoring and retro patterns. “ The Middle Eastern woman is now making her mark on the world,” she says excitedly. “We are witnessing this alongside the modesty movement,” she adds. “ This movement empowers women who are covered, which shows that there’s a sense of freedom of choice to how they dress. It’s extremely empowering.” For Arwa, a woman’s natural beauty and elegance is always at the forefront of her designs. “ The female empowerment movement is now being seen across the globe,” she explains, “and as designers we stand for that belief. We want to send out a message to the world that highlights the importance of females.” Faiza Bouguessa strongly agrees. Born and raised in France to Algerian parents, Faiza was also introduced to the world of fashion at an early age. As a child, she spent much of her time with her grandmother who was a seamstress, and who taught her the basics of knitting and sewing. “I think the Middle Eastern woman is influenced by fashion as much as any other woman in the world,” she reveals. “She is following the trends but she also stays true to her identity and manages to incorporate trends to her own style in a f lawless way, which I admire a lot.” Khulood Thani is the first UAE national to hold
a degree in fashion management and marketing from ESMOD Paris, the oldest sartorial institute in France. She agrees with Faiza about the finesse of the Middle Eastern woman. “She is very knowledgeable about fashion brands and has good taste when it comes to styling and putting things together.” This appreciation and accumen, says Khulood, is largely down to the role of the internet when it comes to sourcing and purchasing fashion. “Social media has played a role in keeping her [the Middle Eastern woman] up-to-date with everything new. E-commerce platforms such as Themodist.com have provided her with pieces that are customised according to her needs.” Numerous fashion houses have embraced the internet’s unprecedented ability to influence and connect when it comes to communicating directly with luxury clientele. Burberry was one of the earliest adapters of the seenow-buy-now trend, shifting to a seasonless, twicea-year show strategy in September 2016. Burberry proudly announced that a number of items sold out online and in-store following their see-now-buynow shows, including military-style jackets and the brand’s highly-coveted Bridle bag. Meanwhile, some houses have gotten into instant fashion on a small, more manageable level, such as Michael Kors. Faiza argues that the modern-day consumer’s pressing demand for immediate fashion is having a negative impact on the industry. “My opinion is that, at the moment, fashion is going too fast, and a lot of brands are focusing mostly on trends.” Faiza fears for the environment. “This triggers a lot of waste and pollution, because people consume fashion that they won’t like for more than four to six months.” Defining fashion trends nowadays is not an easy task, as they’re in essence very complex mechanisms that mirror changes in the economic and political landscapes. Furthermore, there’s not enough time, insists Faiza, to fully explore the potential creativity behind a collection’s design. The industry is, more so than ever, focused on profitability, and subsequently
From left: RITU UPADHYAY, Middle East correspondent for Women’s Wear Daily | KHULOOD THANI, designer and founder of Bint Thani | FAIZA BOUGUESSA, designer and founder of Bouguessa | RAWAN MAKI, designer and founder of Rawan Maki
86 Ritu wears jacket by Gucci, top by Bouguessa, jeans by J Brand, shoes by Stuart Weitzman
Khulood wears top, trousers and jacket by Bint Thani, shoes by Christian Louboutin
quality has become a secondary objective for many luxury tycoons. “ To me fashion is art,” she explains. “When I look at the work of designers like Gabriel Chanel, Madame Gres, Roy Alston, or Azzedine Alaïa you see how these people brought innovation and created wearable sculptures or simply new and comfortable light clothes that gave a feeling of freedom to women. This is innovation.” “We live at a time that is driven by consumerism,” agrees Lebanese designer Nour Najem, who has worked with several high-profile names such as Elie Saab, Rabih Kayrouz and Caroline Seikaly. She launched her eponymous fashion label in the spring of 2013, which targets modern and independent women through f luid lines, high-end fabrics, and intricate details. “ The fashion industry as a whole has many negative ecological, social and economic impacts,” says Nour. “Having a conscience is being aware of all of the resources and efforts it takes to have fashion items presented to us.” In 2013, Nour launched the Kenzah initiative, in parallel to her luxury fashion brand. Through this initiative, she works with talented artisans, using overlooked craftsmanship with the hope of empowering women who come from underprivileged backgrounds. In December 2014, Nour was selected by the Starch Foundation, the emerging talents incubator, to showcase and highlight her talent. “Fashion becomes the voice of a movement,” she says, “but can also rally people around the views of the designers. Some examples would be Vivienne Westwood, and her Worlds End collections, in which she raises awareness, or Maria Grazia Chiuri’s ‘We should all be feminists’ T-shirt for Dior, celebrating the first female artistic director of the brand, as well as female solidarity, that translated into women wearing black in support of #MeToo at the Golden Globes.” Rawan Maki is an environmental engineer alongside being a fashion designer. Originally from Bahrain, Rawan believes that beauty can only be accomplished alongside sustainability and justice. These themes carry forward in the aesthetic of her brand, for which her designs are inspired by the interaction of the natural and the man-made. Rawan’s debut collection in 2017 was an ode to the land and sea, thus casting light on the world’s receding shorelines and shrinking forests, many of which are suffering due to the fashion industry’s carelessness when creating final products. “Fashion is beyond a visible art form — it has a psychological link to how individuals and society act as a large. This is carried by how the wearer feels and what they project. In this sense, fashion has a very nuclear impact in society. Trends come and go, yes, but craftsmanship and the power that comes with dressing in a way that is suited to who you are is lasting and significant.”
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Rawan wears dress by Rawan Maki, shoes by Miu Miu (her own)
Fashion is beyond a visible art form — it has a psychological link to how individuals and society act as a large. Rawan Maki
“Fashion displays people’s attitude, defines their personality and communicates their beliefs and ideas in a subtle but powerful manner,” says Razan Alazzouni, a Saudi-born designer who has a namesake fashion label. A formally trained artist who specialised in sculpture, screen printing and paper making, Razan’s artistic ability and education is evident in her label’s pieces. Ritu Upadhyay is the Middle East correspondent for Women’s Wear Daily (WWD) and has profiled fashion luminaries including Giorgio Armani, Tom Ford, Christian Louboutin and Elie Saab. She has also travelled to factories across India to report on manufacturing and skilled artisans. “Fashion can sometimes seem superficial, but from an economic perspective, it’s the world’s largest industry, worth trillions of dollars, employing tens of millions of people,” she informs. “And 80 per cent of people working in this industry are women. That’s a very important step in economic equality for women. It’s not just a frivolous industry.” She furthers: “Clothes are a basic need — we need to be covered to protect us and stay warm. But beyond that, what we choose to wear tells the story of who we are—– or who we want to be, from a cultural, and sociological perspective. This has played around the world in different ways. Women in particular have used fashion as a means of empowerment, as political statements.” After all, fashion trends may change, but the industry itself will always be with us. “In a very rapidly changing environment, its important not to lose sight of what the true meaning of luxury is, which is artisanship, quality and craftsmanship,” reminds Ritu. The connection between fashion and society will remain intrinsic and enduring, and as such, we should be informed about our choices.
Faiza wears top, trousers and jacket by Bouguessa, shoes by Christian Louboutin
WOMEN IN BUSINESS
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ARECHANGESTOCORPORATE CULTURE NEEDED TO DEVELOP MORE WOMEN LEADERS IN BUSINESS? Thankfully in the 21st Century, most people will agree that women are just as qualified as men to lead businesses. And yet, despite this, it’s been harder for women to get a chance to do so, according to studies by the Rockefeller Foundation and NatWest, to name just a few. According to a 2017 study by the latter, only 37 per cent of women said that they knew where they could source information about starting their own company, and that over two thirds said they would be more encouraged to pursue their own business if they had inspiring female role models, as well as access to female entrepreneurs and advice targeted at circumstances specific to women. “ The biggest challenge is that women are relatively new to the workplace in the Middle East,” suggests Sheikha Intisar of the royal Al Sabah family in Kuwait. A philanthropist, entrepreneur, author and columnist, Sheikha Intisar has become one of the most inf luential personalities in the region. Her natural mood-enhancing beauty brand, Prismologie, is available for purchase across three continents, while Intisars, her namesake jewellery brand, celebrates the royal’s love for her Arabian heritage. “In Kuwait, we have a lot of women leaders,” she says eagerly. “I see myself sitting down in meetings with a growing number of women, where men were once a majority.” Some industries have always boasted a higher-than-average number of women. Originally from Morocco, Mouna Abbassy moved to Dubai 10 years ago. After rediscovering age-old regional beauty rituals, she decided in 2013 to launch her own brand Izil Beauty. “If we are talking about the beauty business,” she begins, “we can agree that women have
always been prominent.” She lists Gabrielle Chanel, French heiress and L’Oréal shareholder Liliane Bettencourt, and Huda Kattan as examples. “If we are talking about entrepreneurship,” she furthers, “there is still a long way to go, as women are still underrepresented.” Encouragement is vital when trying to achieve change, according to Dr. Sumaya Alnasser, the first female Saudi life and executive coach. “A new generation of women are breaking boundaries,” she exclaims. “They’re working in jobs that have been previously closed off to women. Today’s women are more confident, more capable, and more driven.” Dr. Sumaya specialises in self-development, as well as relationship and career coaching, and has trained more than 200,000 people. “I hope I can reach every woman in the Middle East and empower them,” she says. “We need more female influences and success stories.” After all, the road to the top is not easy. Women have to overcome outdated attitudes that they lack the qualifications or confidence to pursue top corporate jobs. Palestinian Dalya Tabari graduated as the youngest in her programme with an MBA from Imperial College London, and first started her career in Dubai as a young advertising account executive. She is currently the director of Al Ittihad Drug Store (IDS), one of the top five leading pharmaceutical distribution firms in the UAE. “I would say the biggest challenges I have experienced involve overcoming labels, stereotypes and conventional expectations. “I have unfortunately experienced this throughout my career in London, New York and Dubai.” So, what does it take to become influential? “Being innovative,” Dalya smiles. “Being fearless and self-motivated, these are all qualities we should strive for. But also to be able to have unwavering determination and resilience with an ability to filter out the naysayers.” According to Saana Azaam, the Palestinian founder of MENA Speakers, companies should create mentoring programmes to ensure that there are pipelines stocked
From left: DALYA TABARI, director of Al Ittihad Drug Store, wears top by Sandro (her own), trousers (her own), shoes by Repetto (her own). SAANA AZZAM, founder of MENA Speakers, wears dress and jacket (her own), shoes by Hilfiger Collection. MOUNA ABBASSY, founder of IZIL Beauty, wears custom trousers and top made in Morocco (her own), shoes by Christian Louboutin
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From left: RASHA NASHAAT HASSANI, co-founder and chairwoman of Listaproperty. com, wears trousers by Hellessy (her own), blouse by Paper at Ounass, shoes by Stuart Weitzman. ANDRÉA SLATER, founder of SkinIII Clinic & Studio 91 Salon, wears top and trousers by Roland Mouret at Symphony, shoes by Stuart Weitzman
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Women in this region are strong, intelligent and powerful. They are making strides in many fields, some of which may have been unchartered territories. Rasha Nashaat Hassani
with qualified female candidates who are able to fill leadership roles at every career level. “One of the many attributes that make up a successfully innovative business is diversity,” she explains. “Being able to accept change and variety opens up an unrestricted door to the definition of what’s corporate, so that it’s ever-expanding.” Saana believes attitudes are changing for the better, and that to help women ascend to the top ranks, many companies are making equal access to leadership opportunities as a priority. “There is a steep emergence in confidence and opportunities for women,” she says. “The market is changing and policies are supporting the uprising of women.” Andréa Slater is a successful British entrepreneur with a track record of building product portfolios. “Although gender disparity remains, the gap is narrowing.” A Dubai native for more than 25 years, Andréa’s best known as the founder and managing director of The Media Factory, a company that for more than a decade was an innovative and leading organisation on the GCC and Asia publishing scene. She has since founded Studio 91, a world-class hair colour and treatment salon located in the heart of Dubai International Financial Centre. “I believe that corporate culture is evolving in a new direction where women play a much more significant role,” she says. “ The tide has certainly started to turn with a number of appointments of females to positions that are significantly inf luencing the industry.” The benefits are undeniable, with Catalyst Foundation calculating that Fortune 500 companies with female board directors have a significantly higher rate of return, higher turnover and a higher return on investment than those with all male board directors. Meanwhile, a report by Deloitte highlights cultural issues as the problem. To put it simply, most
organisations do not offer a suitable environment for diversity or, do not encourage employees to aspire to higher positions. “We know the current system is broken, the old model is not working. It’s up to us to change things, leading by example for the next generation and those to come,” says Sandra Hakim, who runs an independent chocolate studio in New York called Baseema Chocolate. This lack of support causes a low confidence culture to spread across the office, making it much more difficult for women to apply for leadership positions. Sandra has experienced this firsthand: “Sometimes you’re not taken seriously and told you can’t do what a man can do. For far too long, we’ve been underestimated.” Fortunately, the UAE is setting a precedent in gender balance and women’s empowerment in the workplace. Many women occupy key decision-making positions, which is something Rasha Nashaat Hassani is grateful for. A veteran entrepreneur, Rasha, who is Emirati, has contributed to industries such as real estate brockerage, digital real estate marketing and the health beverage industry. “We have been so fortunate to be in a time, place and country where we have a government leadership that wishes to highlight and encourage the female career paths of all women in this country, with specific focus on leadership roles,” she says. Over the years, Rasha has developed a keen interest in providing career opportunities for women, as well as gender equality within the corporate environment. “The spirit of entrepreneurship in our region is alive and well, so it is a definite positive for both genders,” she furthers, adding: “Women in this region are strong, intelligent and powerful. They are making strides in many fields, some of which may have been unchartered territories. The numbers of inspiring role models are constantly increasing with many female success stories to be celebrated.”
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Photography: Stephane Cardinale - Corbis/Getty
TALKING POINT
Gisele Bündchen walks the runway during the Chanel spring/summer 2015 show
MODEL CITIZENS
In an age of protest, it is no longer enough for women to walk the catwalk anonymously, as social media breeds a new kind of socially conscious influencer. But will they stand the test of time?
Words by Lauren Cochrane
T
he must-have accessory for a model in Others are doing the same. Both Cameron Russell 2018? It’s not a pair of Acne Pistol Boots and Edie Campbell have spoken out about models’ or the Instagram filter to set their selfie rights, calling out abusers in the industry after the just so. Instead, try ‘an opinion’. Forget Kate Moss’ Weinstein allegations last year. Using Instagram, enigmatic “never complain, never explain”. Models Cameron — who arguably pioneered this change — or indeed anyone who is influential in fashion by doing a TED talk in 2013 — encouraged now — are as much about talking the talk as well as models to share their stories, using the hashtag they are walking the catwalk. #MyJobShouldNotIncludeAbuse, while Edie Just look to the news cycle to see the change. penned an open letter to Women’s Wear Daily Models who are the most high profile currently hit (WWD) calling out a culture of “toxic masculinity the headlines for scoring a campaign, but also for and patriarchy”. Cara Delevingne went from pulling starting one. Adwoa Aboah, arguably the model of funny faces to speaking out to her 41m followers a generation, has used her about mental illness and sexuality, platform to support everything with her account tagline ‘Don’t “In a post-#MeToo worry, be happy. Embrace your from mental heath issues to the world, fashion is rights of girls and women and weirdness. Stop labelling, start sustainability. In the past year, living’. Leomie Anderson and realising there is Ebonee Davis, meanwhile, have she has won Model of the Year at power in women London’s fashion awards, appeared been vocal about racial diversity in who have a voice” on numerous magazine covers, the fashion industry, with Ebonee scored campaigns with Gap, recently saying: “There are so Burberry and Chanel but also worked on a festival many young black women who have experienced from her organisation Gurls Talk, championing lack of self-esteem and feeling inadequate. As feminist causes, with sponsorship by Coach. For someone with a platform and with a voice, I have Adwoa, to be judged on her looks alone no longer to stand up and use it.” cuts it. She takes advantage of her place in the While all this is to be applauded, surely it puts luxury public eye. “There’s no way I could not use that,” brands — typically a sector where politics is seen she told The Guardian newspaper last year. “It’s as a dirty word — off working with these women? not about having an opinion on every single thing Not any more. As a new generation becomes more just for the sake of it. I know what my causes engaged with the issues of the day, marching for are. And I care about them, so I’d rather get out women’s rights and showing solidarity for victims there and talk about them than just play it safe.” of discrimination and abuse online, these are exactly
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Leomie Anderson
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There’s this explosion of models speaking out and so they should. Naomi Shimada
the kind of faces — and indeed voices — that read 2018’s room. Since her TED talk, Cameron has been on a plethora of covers and Edie is still one of the hardest working models in fashion. Leomie and Ebonee are regulars on the catwalk, and Leomie starred in the ad campaign for Rihanna’s Fenty beauty. In a post-#MeToo world, fashion is realising there is power in women who have a voice. Naomi Shimada has used her voice in tandem with her look throughout her career: as a plus size model and outspoken voice around diversity. She now has that highly-prized blue tick on her Instagram account, with 58k followers, and she models for Nike, H&M and numerous magazines. She says that her account and the platform it provides means that the role of the model has shifted. “There’s this explosion of models speaking out and so they should,” she says. “When you have a job that has been about visuals for so long, there is something really positive that with instagram we’re able to show the different sides, our human sides.” Models, over time, have traditionally been passive, something otherworldly to look at rather than
someone to have a conversation with. Reportedly, in 1920, Paul Poiret told an interviewer surrounded by models: “Do not talk to the girls, madame, they do not exist.” In Phantom Thread, the Paul Thomas Anderson film telling the story of a mid-century designer Reynolds Woodcock, his muse is seen as highly unusual for speaking out during a fitting, and this idea of being seen and not heard has continued. Even Twiggy was more about a look than a personality. In 1970, Vogue wrote that the model had succeeded through a combination of “a Cockney accent, a lack of sophistication and of conceit, a limited vocabulary, and a very sweet nature.” Then think of the supermodels of the Eighties. As their name suggests, they were powerful, but they were anything but human. Instead, they were placed on a pedestal, living the lives of goddesses far high above the lives of ordinary people. There’s the famous Linda Evangelista quote, “I don’t get out of bed for less than 10,000 dollars a day” or the video for George Michael’s ‘Freedom’. These were icons, yes, but you knew next to nothing about their personal lives, let alone their thoughts on the issues of the day. Of course, even without opening their mouths, models have enormous power and influence. Look to the socalled Gisele Bündchen Stock Index, developed by economist Fred Fuld at the height of the Gisele effect. Famously, companies’ stock went up and down with the Brazilian’s association with them. See Victoria’s Secret parent company’s share price falling by 31.5 per cent when Bündchen terminated her contract with the lingerie brand in 2007. The numbers game was also writ large with the most recent wave of talent, the so-called Instamodels. The popularity of Kendall Jenner, Gigi and Bella Hadid, and Emily Ratajkowski is there for all to see on their Instagram accounts (88.5m, 39m, 17.1m, 16.8m respectively), such reach no doubt holding sway on brands when they were casting campaigns. Of course, these days models are not the only influential figures at the top of fashion — they’re fighting it out with another group. Enter the aptlynamed influencers. With the growth of bloggers from around 2006, influencers — young women who spend their time flown around the world by brands to their events, sharing their activities with their copious amounts of followers — are watched for their every move. See Kylie Jenner, Kendall’s 20-year-old sister who boasts 105m followers on Instagram. In February, she tweeted the immortal words, “sooo does anyone else not open Snapchat anymore? Or is it just me... ugh this is so sad.” The result? Dhs4.8bn off the app’s value, just like that. If Nancy Cunard, the Mitford sisters, Edie Sedgewick, Jane Birkin, Tina Chow and Alexa Chung have enjoyed the buzz of being an It girl
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I hope we find more ways to celebrate movements like #metoo which exemplify the power of community. Cameron Russell Cameron Russell
Adwoa Aboah
Photography: Taylor Hill/Getty, David M. Benett/Getty and Samir Hussein/Getty. Quotes courtesy of Cameron Russeel/Instagram
Cara Delevingne
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If you don’t like being in your skin, it doesn’t matter how many times people tell you you’re beautiful. Adwoa Aboah, Gurls Talk
Edie Campbell
96 Karen Wazen Bakhazi
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Don’t worry, be happy. Embrace your weirdness. Stop labelling, start living.
Lana El Sahely
Chiara Ferragni
Cara Delevingne
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To be influential in fashion really means to have a genuine sense of identity. Ritu Upadhyay
Photography: Antonio de Moraes Barros Filho/Getty, Ricky Vigil M/Getty, Jacopo Raule/Getty and Mireya Acierto/Getty
Kylie Jenner
in the past, the likes of Kylie, The Blonde Salad’s Chiara Ferragni, Song of Style’s Aimee Song, and make-up artist Huda Kattan are their modernday equivalents. Chiara has even had a Harvard Business Study dedicated to her, and there are fan sites documenting her every move. Crystal Abidin, author of Internet Celebrity: Understanding Fame Online, says they appeal because, by and large, they were not celebrities first. “Viewers will always remember them as ‘one of us’, they were ordinary social media users,” she says. “Because of this origin story as a normal person all the stories they put out there will be more relatable.” When it comes to retaining influence in fashion now, the key word is ‘authenticity’ – endless shots of, say, avocado on toast and perfect new outfits feel a bit flat by comparison. “People want to see real style on women of all shapes, sizes and colours,” says Ritu Upadhyay, the Middle East correspondent for WWD. “So to be influential in fashion really means to have a genuine sense of identity.” This has not gone unnoticed by brands. In the Middle East, companies have been able to use the power of influencers including Karen Wazen and Lana El Sahely to reach consumers, by products featuring in the feed of these women’s aspirational lives. But with new legislation in place this year, influencers in the United Arab Emirates will now have to have a media license to promote brands, meaning greater transparency is inevitable. Authenticity will come as standard because anything else is effectively outlawed. In this new environment, brands have to be careful to make connections that feel real — this generation can sniff out opportunism a mile away. “There are so many brands jumping on something that has been important and close to my heart for so many years,” says Naomi. “It doesn’t necessarily feel genuine.” Crystal has seen this trend too. “You sometimes find influencers deliberately trying to engage with these causes even if they may not feel anything about it,” she says. “We can see several examples of this awkward mismatch where it doesn’t match the content. On Instagram, there might be a picture of someone on holiday going ‘oh my god, I was in Paris six months ago and this could have been me #PrayForParis’. On some level we don’t want to discount that they are experiencing grief but on the other level I call this grief hypejacking to channel publicity back to themselves.” Ultimately, the world of social media has also given a platform to non-establishment voices that was simply not there before. Crystal says it has also empowered women to shift their position from the one in the picture to the one art directing it. “I really enjoy the fact that a lot of these influencers started out modelling other people’s clothes are giving up
Naomi Shimada
all of that to start their own labels,” she says. “They move from being ambassadors of brands to have their own businesses as powerful young women. It’s a savvy strategy for them.” Indeed. Harley Viera-Newton, who began as an It girl and DJ with an Instagram following of 124k, is now primarily a designer with her brand HVN. “When you launch your own business, you quickly realise its 24 hours a day, 365 days a year,” she says. “Social media has made it possible for designers and brands to have a direct conversation with their customers. This is a priceless tool.” Naomi says that Instagram allowed her to, as she says, “go rogue and not even have an agent for a while”, with clients finding her on the app. It’s been a career-defining move. “It’s amazing, especially as someone who was not skinny enough, too big, too small, didn’t fit into any of these boxes, too racially ambiguous,” she says. “Now, I literally get to turn up and know they booked me as me.” A strong sense of self ? Right now in fashion, that might just be the most influential thing there is.
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They move from being ambassadors of brands to have their own businesses as powerful young women. Crystal Abidin
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MOJEH INTERVIEW
Alia wears dress and jacket by Arwa Al Banawi, and has long promoted the work of modestwear fashion designers
PRET-A-COVER:
A NEW APPROACH TO MODESTY Islamic Fashion Design Council (IFDC) founder Alia Khan seeks to fill gaping holes in the fashion industry by creating a retail category for modestwear, and providing an alternative to the traditional fashion week model
Words by Hafsa Lodi
Photography: Borna Ahadi. Stylist: Sophie Pasztor. Location: Ninive in Emirates Towers Hotel
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odesty: it has become a buzzword in the fashion industry over the past two years, as international designers are increasingly showing more covered-up creations on the catwalks of Milan, Paris, London and New York. But it’s far more appreciable than a mere hashtag or fleeting trend. Modesty is a lifestyle, that requires the creation of a global organisation that can oversee and support fashion designers in the field — or at least that’s the thought that had been on the mind of Dubai-based Alia Khan five years ago. In 2013, her brainchild, the Islamic Fashion and Design Council (IFDC), was born. Now, after almost half a decade of promoting the work of modestwear designers, the council is introducing what it promises to be “the world’s first revolutionary modest fashion and design show,” taking place March 28 – April 2 at City Walk 2 in Dubai. Titled the Pret-a-Cover Buyers Lane, the event provides an alternative platform to fashion week, where designers are exhibiting their
modestwear collections without the use of a catwalk. The project has attracted the attention of sponsors like Emirates Airlines, Aston Martin and Pullman Hotels, who will be bringing in their own contacts and clientele, making the event a networking opportunity that some would consider to be even more beneficial than a spot at Paris Fashion Week. Historically, ‘Islamic’ clothing has not been portrayed in a very fashion-forward light. “If people want to stereotype, they will tell you that it’s a black abaya and a black shayla, so what’s the big deal about modest fashion? But that’s not even a small fraction of what the real scene is,” says Alia. Women who opt for a modest lifestyle are hardly happy with drab, shapeless or colourless clothing. They look for innovation in silhouette, texture, textile and colour, and will splurge on their well-kept wardrobes. While some European designers may dabble in modest attire subconsciously, influenced by the overarching ‘granny-chic’
style trend, the modest fashion movement is thriving not because of trend-savvy women in the West, but because of these wealthy, modesty-conscious consumers in the Middle East – a spending power that international designers and retailers are now growing more aware of. According to the 2017 Thomson Reuters State of the Global Islamic Economy report, consumers spent Dhs893 billion on Muslim clothing in 2015 (11 per cent of the global sales on clothing), and that’s expected to reach $1,352 billion by 2021. Khan emphasises that the council is not a solely Muslim organisation. “We have a very strong secondary following of the Christian and the Jewish, the Buddhist and the Hindu, and even just mainstream, modest people who don’t necessarily do it for faith-based reasons,” says Alia. “We believe that everyone, at some time in their life, has to refer their style to a modest level. Whether it’s because they have to go to a big meeting that’s going be a little more conservative or go see their grandparents and be more conservative – everyone is touched by that in some way or another.” To enhance the shopping experience of the modest consumer, the IFDC launched its Pret-a-Cover programme in 2015, aiming to help retailers display and market their modestwear more effectively. “Mainstream stores did have key pieces that people would have really appreciated from this market, but it just wasn’t really well explained to the modest consumer, and the modest consumer has the biggest spending power,” says Alia. She believes that the Pret-a-Cover Buyers Lane will bring about more awareness
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If people want to stereotype, they will tell you that it’s a black abaya and a black shayla, so what’s the big deal about modest fashion? But that’s not even a small fraction of what the real scene is. Alia Khan
to the need for an organised, modestwear retail category in stores. “We do believe that retailers are taking a bigger interest because it makes good business sense and this event will really help to catapult these efforts,” says Alia. While the IFDC has offices in New York, Toronto, Milan, Moscow, Cape Town, Istanbul and Karachi, Dubai is the home of its chairwoman, who says that the council shares many goals with the Dubai government. “It was fortuitous [when we launched] because it was the same time when Sheikh Mohammed came out with his mandate to make Dubai the global hub of the Islamic economy,” says Alia. Timing is everything, and location plays a big role too – the fact that Alia is based in the heart of the region’s fashion and design scene has helped her pave the way for the council’s activity in the Middle East, and beyond. When the council partnered with Torino Fashion Week last July, it marked the first time that an Italian fashion week had ever included a modestwear-dedicated segment, and LA-based brand Al Nisa, Pakistani Nida Azwer and Indonesian Dian Pelangi were among the labels to receive luxury awards from LVMH. Now, Alia is looking at newer ways to support her designers. “We’ve partnered with almost 100 summits and events and fashion weeks and the one thing I quickly realised was that the fashion week model is broken. It’s a bit of an antiquated model, that really does leave a lot of the participants disappointed,” she explains. Indeed, many designers put lots of time, effort and money into their collections, not to mention transportation
and accommodation costs, but after the hype of the show is over, they question whether it was all worth it. “They usually walk away pretty dismayed because they haven’t left with orders, or exposure. So, the challenges that a fashion week presents haven’t been fully addressed, in our opinion,” says Alia. Dubai-based Saudi designer Hatem Alakeel, who has taken part in numerous fashion weeks, is participating at the IFDC’s Pret-a-Cover Buyers Lane. “Fashion shows have become obsolete, with lots of investment but no return: you never cover your expenses,” he says. “The whole idea of a show doesn’t make sense anymore.” Rather than having designers parade their creations down a catwalk, the IFDC has asked each to prepare a video, giving them total creative freedom, within a time limit and modesty-based guidelines. “You can go up to 18 looks or you can just show one look and create a story around that one look. There are no rules – you use the components of your film to tell a narrative that will help us connect to you and your vision,” explains Alia. Designers have also been given pop-up spaces at the event, where they’re meeting consumers, buyers, media members and government representatives. Creatives have travelled from all over the world to take part in the Pret-a-Cover Buyers Lane, bringing their couture, eveningwear, ready-to-wear, loungewear, athletic-wear, leatherware, headscarves and even gloves, to the UAE. “You’re going to see a nice array of designers, from the GCC and from countries like Turkey and Jordan, India and Pakistan, France and Italy, and America and Australia, so
I think we’ve pretty much covered the world, which speaks to the fact that it truly is a global play,” says Alia, who promises that the event will be well worth the time of participating brands. Rather than pour blood, sweat and tears into producing samples, arranging fittings, sourcing models and organising a runway show that may or may not result in any traction with buyers or press, emerging and established brands will come face-to-face with one of the strongest consumer markets in the world, opening doors to potentially career-defining opportunities. “Each one should get exposure – we’re doing a lot of VIP introductions for them so that they can meet key players in the region – our government partners are very important to know at the Dubai Islamic Economy Development Centre (DIEDC), and we think this event is a strong opportunity to build a B-to-C client book, because of our high calibre partners, like Aston Martin, Emirates Airlines and Pullman Hotels. They’ll be bringing their GCC clientele to this event, and that’s a huge spending power that otherwise may not have been realised by these participants.” Even though the Pret-a-Cover Buyers Lane has not yet come to a close, Alia reveals that the council has already been contacted by organisers in Milan, Beverly Hills and London, who are keen to host the event in their own cities. Modesty may be in vogue right now, but by the looks of it, the movement won’t be losing any momentum – at least not while Alia and the IFDC continue to disrupt the industry, shatter stereotypes and revolutionise the retail landscape.
The founder of Islamic Fashion Design Council (IFDC), Alia wears jacket by Arwa Al Banawi
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ONES TO WATCH
A monochrome palette guides the aesthetic of this Melbournebased brand helmed by Zara Hassan. Pieces are classic and versatile: a white, floor-length shirt dress, for instance, can be worn closed and belted, or loose and open. Timeless striped
Alia Khan discloses which designers she thinks are the future of modest fashion
patterns and chic layering techniques feature in her upcoming autumn/winter 2018 range, however Zara isn’t restricted by basic styles or black-and-white fabrics. A pastel-pink dress splattered with birds, or black eveningwear adorned with sequins, may seem out-of-character, but Minnow Zola’s muse is one that leads a well-balanced lifestyle.
FRINGADINE Practical and purposeful, this Parisian label gives an elegant, French flair to thobe-inspired silhouettes. Garments are cosmopolitan but discreet, with shirt-dresses and trapeze skirts designed with utilitarianism in mind. The brand works with denims and linens, and creates dresses crafted from floral mousselines. Blouses featuring quintessential Peter Pan collars or exaggerated pussy-bows, are styled with A-line maxi-skirts and cropped pea-coats. A simple, natural and unfussy appearance is what the label’s self-taught designers, Hélène Agesilas and Malika Maza, strive for with their designs.
UNDER-RAPT Inspired by much-loved millennial brands like Vetements and Yeezy, UnderRapt makes trend-driven modest athleisure. The London-based label, which has even made an athletic hijab, works with sustainable textiles and ensures high quality, breathable, cooling and sweat-resistant fabrics. The brand’s founder and creative director, Yasmin Sobeih, is a stylist-turned-buyerturned-designer, and her background in fashion can be accredited for the stylish appeal of Under-Rapt’s sport pieces. Athleisure staples like raincoats, crewnecks, harem pants, tracksuits and T-shirts are designed with relaxed fits that are loose, yet flattering: ideal for the modern, multifaceted and modesty-focused female.
DOSOUGI DESIGNS ‘Millennial Muslims’ are the target audience of this American fashion label. But that’s quickly apparent once you see a few of the brand’s designs, like its metallic knit two-piece sets, and gowns adorned with corset-inspired belts and oversized eyelets. Designer Huda Eldosougi, who debuted her line at New York’s Harlem Fashion Week in 2016, has an eye for easy-to-wear textiles and cool, minimalist adornments, which she pairs together to appeal to mainstream consumers who may not even realise that the brand is one that focuses on modest fashion.
PHI CASA With an emphasis on expert tailoring balanced with feminine allure, designs from this South African fashion label are both playful and practical. Expect to see belted prairie dresses, peplum blouses, drop-waist tunics, trendy trenches and floral dresses galore. The designer, Aneeqah Stellenboom, cites New York City as a key inspiration. She doesn’t focus purely on modestwear, most of her designs are adaptable to a modest lifestyle.
TALABAYA Award-winning Czech designer Mirka Talavašková is the brains behind this Prague-based label. Female empowerment is engrained in the DNA of the brand, and pieces exude confidence and power, sometimes even playing with androgyny. Mirka creates for the contemporary businesswoman, but expect more than your typical power suit from this modestwear label. Necklines are crisp, collars are stark, and shoulders are strong. Tuxedo-inspired jackets feature artful pleating and work shirts are upgraded with balloon-like sleeves. Designs are completed with bold buttons, strips of graphic prints and, occasionally, men’s tie-inspired bows at the neck.
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SEASONAL STYLE
FENDI
Fashion labels are embracing their brand identity. Go bold with Chanel’s Bowling Bag or take a more elegant route in Dior or Oscar de la Renta to master the trend that’s dominating the season.
Compiled by Sophie Pasztor
LOGOMANIA
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1. VERSACE | 2. CHANEL | 3. BALENCIAGA | 4. MIU MIU | 5. OSCAR DE LA RENTA | 6. SAINT LAURENT | 7. CHANEL | 8. DIOR | 9. DOLCE & GABBANA
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GABRIELA HEARST
Revive power dressing with tailored separates and keep things feminine with shapely silhouettes. Navigate between clean lines, robust construction, and a minimalist palette.
Compiled by Sophie Pasztor
PURSUIT OF POWER
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1. BOYY at HARVEY NICHOLS - DUBAI | 2. LAMA JOUNI | 3. CÉLINE | 4. SEMSEM at THE MODIST | 5. TIBI | 6. M2MALLETIER | 7 & 8. YUUL YIE | 9. BALENCIAGA
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Shirt, dress, shoes, hat and choker, DIOR
Deliverance Summer at the House of Dior is cemented by the feminine ideals of creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri, in which both functionality and freedom roam free. Think low, block-heeled Mary-Janes and walking boots, but don’t forget frothy dresses and barely-there sheers
Photographed by Aurelia Le Styled by Ina Lekiewicz
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OPPOSITE PAGE: Dress, DIOR THIS PAGE: Dress, briefs and boots, DIOR
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Bodysuit, trousers, socks and shoes, DIOR
Jumper, dress, socks and hat, DIOR
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THIS PAGE: Jumpsuit, hat and boots, DIOR OPPOSITE PAGE: Jumpsuit, shirt, skirt, choker and boots, DIOR
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OPPOSITE PAGE: Jumpsuit and hat, DIOR THIS PAGE: Bodysuit, skirt, choker, necklace and boots, DIOR
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Dress and hat, DIOR
Jumpsuit and choker, DIOR
Model: Mayka at IMG Hair and make-up artist: Marita Thoma Politou Styling assistant: Karolina Jarosz Local production: New Order Warsaw
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Unexpected Extravagance The secret to the season lies in functional pieces, melded with sudden blows of punchy prints, rich tones and excessive shapes. Consider a pared back suit layered with peacock motifs, or metres of polka prints in a monochrome palette
Photographed by Danilo Hess Styled by Stacey Cunningham
Coat, PRADA | Top and skirt, SACAI | Blouse, HYKE | Earrings, COLETTE MALOUF | Gloves and tights, GASPAR | Shoes, CALVIN KLEIN
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Top, HYKE | Skirt (worn as dress), PRADA | Earrings, bracelet, COLETTE MALOUF | Belt, SAINT LAURENT
Clothing, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
This page: Coat, belt, tights and boots, GIVENCHY | Gloves, GASPAR Next page: Dress, shoes, CALVIN KLEIN | Gloves and tights, GASPAR
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Top, trousers, HERMÈS | Jacket, GUCCI | Boots, BALENCIAGA | Gloves, GASPAR
Dress, CHANEL | Leather jacket, LOUIS VUITTON | Earrings, bracelet, COLETTE MALOUF
This page: Top and trousers, HERMÈS | Jacket, GUCCI | Gloves, GASPAR Next page: Dress, JUNYA WATANABE | Gloves, GASPAR
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Dress, DIOR | Jacket and shoes, PRADA | Earrings, HAARSTICK
Creative director: Audie Umali Model: Juliana Schurig at DNA Make-up artist: Ryo Yamazaki Hair stylist: Hikaru Hirano Retouching: Gloss Studio
Top and shirt, MIU MIU | Dress, VALENTINO | Earrings, HAARSTICK | Brooches, COLETTE MALOUF
Sleeveless gilet, striped round neck pullover, printed silk shorts, Archlight trainers and Petite Boite Chapeau bag in crème, LOUIS VUITTON
Spirited Stance Elevated athleisure meets traditional fabrics and silhouettes. Think heavy leather outerwear worn over lighter, sports-inspired pieces in stripes and brocade. Wear with aplomb
Photographed by Wendy Bevan Styled by Anna Schilling
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Embroidered redingote, long-sleeved crop top with ruffles and silk shorts, LOUIS VUITTON
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Short-sleeved striped zip-up knit top, printed silk shorts, Archlight trainers, For Your Eyes Only sunglasses and holdall bag, LOUIS VUITTON
Striped turtleneck knit dress with band, Archlight trainers and Monogram Blossom Petite Malle bag, LOUIS VUITTON
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Leather redingote with cuff detail, embroidered boot cut pant and Archlight trainers, LOUIS VUITTON
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Embroidered leather jacket, long-sleeved blouse with necktie, ruffle detailed trousers and City Malle bag, LOUIS VUITTON
Model: Marina Sarovic at Phira LA Make-up artist: Stephanie GM Hair stylist: Tracy Moyer Digital assistant: Brian Cross Retouching: Charlotte Stevens
FEATURING Competitive Gaming Steven Spielberg Virtual Reality Johnny Depp Star Wars
N°11 2018
SUBSCRIBE TO MOJEH MEN MAGAZINE HAVE THE VERY BEST IN STYLE DELIVERED DIRECTLY TO YOU. Call or email us at +971 4 553 9049 and subs@mojeh.com
JEWELLERY EDIT Chiara Ferragni has been named Pomellato’s newest brand ambassador
Photography: Peter Lindbergh
ITALIAN INFLUENCE Since its inception, Pomellato has been dedicated to women, and
and fiercely independent,” Chiara says about her new role, before
the maison has now appointed influencer-designer-model Chiara
adding about the Milanese brand: “Pomellato’s unconventional
Ferragni as its new face of the PomellatoForWomen campaign,
style, along with the powerful perspective conveyed in each
which launched last year. The self-made businesswoman first
of Peter Lindbergh’s images, is just perfect chemistry.” For the
launched her blog The Blonde Salad in 2009, and she has since built
PomellatoForWomen campaign, Peter takes powerful black and
a fashion empire that’s made her one of the most inspiring female
white portraits of the brand’s chosen women. “What impressed
public figures worldwide. “I am so proud to join this campaign that
me the most about Chiara... is her strong and vibrant personality,”
represents everything that women can be — strong and capable,
he reveals. “She embodies the future of empowered femininity.”
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Each contemporary piece is designed to be wearable and withstand the test of time.
HANDMADE WITH LOVE Seattle- and Taipei-based jewellery brand charXchen is focused around creating neutral pieces that easily blend into a woman’s everyday life. Each contemporary piece is designed to be wearable and withstand the test of time. Now, for the brand’s autumn/winter 2018 collection, charXchen has incorporated sapphires and rubies into their sterling silver designs, making them that little bit more luxurious. Previous collections include pieces cast in brass, 14-karat gold, plated in 20-karat gold, 18-karat gold, rose-gold and platinum. Designers work with a traditional Japanese technique of enamel-shippoyaki, which highlights each piece’s jewel-toned colours, adding an extra dimension to minimal abstract shapes that superbly adorn the wrist, neck and ears. Available at Charxchen.com CHARXCHEN
Ring, MONICA VINADER
Ring, DAMIANI
FRESH FORMS
A ROYAL AFFAIR
Monica Vinader’s beloved Siren collection has been revamped for
Spring is finally here, and to celebrate, Damiani has unveiled
the spring season. Light shades of colour sweep across distinctive
pieces that pay tribute to Italy’s Queen Margherita of Savoy. An
pre-stacked rings and earrings, which feature the semi-precious
icon of style and elegance, the queen’s sophistication is present
gemstone, Kyanite, which boasts a characterful translucent blue
throughout the feminine pieces which boast dazzling diamonds
hue. Available at Monica Vinader in Mall of the Emirates
and contrasting colours. Available at Damiani in The Dubai Mall
PRECIOUS PEARLS Pearls have long been revered for their renowned protective properties, particularly here in the Middle East, and Robert Wan’s Amulette collection certainly channels their rebirth in various cultures as hidden treasures that protect, inspire and transport. Each Amulet pendant carries between one to three pearls in a visually stunning display of white gold links Amulette pendant, ROBERT WAN
and diamonds. At Harvey Nichols — Dubai
DOUBLE CUT Valérie Messika’s latest creations come in the form of the Siren Song set, a collection that comprises a collar-style Ring, MESSIKA
necklace and matching bracelet. The sumptuous line’s double ring is also crafted using a similar technique that ensures a sensual curve as well as optimum comfort, while the wire-based articulation method creates the impression of stones floating. At Messika, The Dubai Mall
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Oversized silver leaves and pretty baubles were the earrings of choice at Valentino CATWALK REPORT This year’s spring/summer runways gave the magpies among us plenty of eye candy to lust after. Statement shoulder-sweeping earrings took centre stage at New York thanks to Oscar de la Renta’s sunburst structures and Prabal Gurung’s mismatched cascades of pearls. Meanwhile, Valentino opted for oversized silver leaves and baubles that hung from delicate gold threads. In London, dramatic chandelier earrings were worn at Burberry and sculptural pieces were spotted at Rejina Pyo, who is heavily inspired by the works of Alexander Calder. Of course, last but not least, gem-smothered giant monogram studs showcased sun-kissed faces at Chanel, solidifying dramatic earrings as the trend of now.
VALENTINO
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MOJEH INTERVIEW
FAMILY BUSINESS As a new boutique opens in Dubai, Gaia Repossi discusses her family heritage and what it means to be the first female creative director of the House of Repossi
Photography: Antoine Doyen
Words by Victoria Townsend
Gaia Repossi never planned to become a jewellery designer, but in 2007 she took over the family business, Repossi, which was founded in Italy in 1920
Following Monte Carlo and Paris, the House of Repossi has chosen Dubai to open its third flagship store. Prior to the April 2018 inauguration of the boutique’s prime location at Fashion Avenue in The Dubai Mall, creative and artistic director Gaia Repossi found the time to sit down with MOJEH, to discuss the rich heritage of her family’s jewellery creations, the evolution of the Repossi brand, and its customers here in the Middle East. Named creative and artistic director of the House of Repossi in 2007 at the age of 21, Gaia is the fourth generation and first woman of the family to design jewellery under the Repossi name. 15 collections, including several bestsellers — think of Berbère, Serti sur Vide and Antifer — are characterised by a modern, architectural, and minimalist style. Gaia reveals that she “fell into the profession” in the same way that her father did: “Through his father,” she smiles. Founded by her great-grandfather in 1920 who established the fine jewellery house in Turin, Italy, and developed by her grandfather who started the brand with Art Deco and avant-garde jewellery creations, Repossi was soon propelled into the role of an international house with global influence, thanks to Gaia’s father, Alberto. The opening of the first flagship store in Monte Carlo in 1979 was followed by a Paris boutique at 6 Place Vendôme in 1986, the year of Gaia’s birth. In 1995, Repossi became the official purveyor of Prince Rainier III of Monaco. “My father wanted to pursue an artistic career, be a painter, but by the age of 16 he became interested in my grandfather’s work, drawing jewellery, and also cars and furniture,” reveals Gaia. “He wanted to create an entire world, a very complete 360-degree approach, bringing his own personality to the industry.” The evolution, says Gaia, “from the Art Deco avant-garde influence of my grandfather to a more classic approach, with royal majestic pieces and travels to India to purchase stones, was the result of his [Alberto’s] desire to bring luxury to another level, combined with design.” While Gaia grew up in an environment of gemstones and drawings, her first ambition
Antifer ring, REPOSSI
Antifer bracelet, REPOSSI
was, like her father, to pursue an artistic path. She studied painting at the École Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts de Paris, and obtained a master’s degree in archaeology, but soon realised that the Repossi family’s jewellery legacy was part of her DNA, and that it brought her “instinctive knowledge” about the industry. Gaia feels that because Repossi is a family business, it brings true luxury to partner LVMH (the international group first announced that it would take a minority stake in the jewellery brand in 2015), because “it is built from the inside, with an identity and image that comes from a person, not from a business point of view.” She continues to draw and paint “to avoid producing ‘market-influenced products’.” A fan of artists Alexander Calder or Richard Serra, and the effects of metal within sculpture and modern architecture, she laughs that, “while what we do, as jewellery professionals, is an applied art, when I see a shape, volume or metal, I automatically imagine it as a necklace.” One of Gaia’s greatest satisfactions is the worldwide success of the Berbère collection, launched in 2011, which takes inspiration from native tattoos of the Touareg Berbers, a sector of nomadic people living in the
Antifer ring, REPOSSI
North African desert. The groundbreaking earcuff design from that collection, now iconic, “is the symbol of a new generation looking for change and tradition at the same time,” reveals Gaia. “It is a bestseller in the Middle East, along with the Serti sur Vide collection, designed to make diamonds look as if they are floating in the air.” “I think with Instagram,” she continues, when asked about the impact of technology and social media, “there is not much difference between our French and Middle Eastern clientele. Everything is immediate and clients here are very well-informed. There is also a strong desire for novelties in the Middle East; I feel we always need to produce more to surprise and fulfil this desire to have the latest trends. The region understands high-end jewellery, like couture, because it maintains tradition and craft at a high level. The Dubai Mall is one of the most incredible malls in the world, and it is my wish with the store here to really surprise the clients with a very specific experience in a modern, luxurious way.” Specialties also include engagement and wedding rings, as well as rare one-of-a-kind diamond solitaires in addition to limited edition pieces and exclusive collaborations, all of which will be available in the latest boutique.
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THIS PAGE: Dress, GIVENCHY | Mosaico earrings and necklace in white gold with diamonds, GIAMPIERO BODINO OPPOSITE PAGE: Blouse and jacket, SAINT LAURENT | Earrings in white gold with diamonds, DAVID MORRIS
bsédée
avec le noir White gold and diamonds in polished, full-bodied formations set the tone for a formidable month ahead. In clothing, black makes for a powerful backdrop against this year’s sleekest fine and high jewellery pieces
Photographed by Rui Faria Styled by Masha Mombelli
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THIS PAGE: Dress, ELLERY | Le Renard ring in white gold with emeralds, onyx and diamonds, Le Renard necklace in white gold with emeralds, sapphires and white diamonds, FABERGÉ OPPOSITE PAGE: Shirt, tie and jacket, GUCCI | Earrings in white gold with diamonds, DE GRISOGONO
THIS PAGE: Jacket and hat, DIOR | Archi Dior necklace and bracelet in white gold with diamonds, DIOR FINE JEWELLERY OPPOSITE PAGE: Jacket and blouse, LOUIS VUITTON | Acte V earrings and ring in white gold with onyx and diamonds, LOUIS VUITTON
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THIS PAGE: Top and jacket, TOGA | Earrings in white gold with multi-coloured pearls and diamonds, CHOPARD OPPOSITE PAGE: Jacket and trousers, CÉLINE | Glam’Azone Graphic Pavé earrings in white gold with diamonds; Move Romane Pave bracelet in white gold with diamonds, MESSIKA Art and film director: Liam S. Gleeson Model: Maria Clara at Next Models Make-up artist: Alex Babsky at Premier Hair and Make-up Hair stylist: Davide Barbieri at Caren Manicurist: Robbie Tomkins at Premier Hair and Make-up Photography assistant: Pierre Lequeux Styling assistant: India Grove Make-up assistant: Virginia Bertolani Digital operator: Jennifer Balcombe Casting director: Rebecca Knox Retoucher: Charlotte Stevens
Photography: Elena Lukyanchuk at The Factory ME. Stylist: Sophie Pasztor
160 HIGH NOTES
SWAROVSKI
7 1 6 BVLGARI
2 5
3
KALEIDOSCOPIC COLOUR Designers add a welcome splash of colour to their collections with bright hues in an array of rainbow shades.
1. DIOR | 2. BVLGARI | 3. SUZANNE KALAN | 4. MELISSA JOY MANNING at NET-A-PORTER | 5. POMELLATO | 6. BOUCHERON at NET-A-PORTER | 7. SWAROVSKI
4
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PIAGET
7 6
1 CARTIER
2
5
3
4 STACKING FUNDAMENTALS Customise your look by stacking luxe jewellery pieces together to create a truly individual style statement.
1. GUCCI at OUNASS | 2. MARLI at OUNASS | 3. VAN CLEEF & ARPELS | 4. BOUCHERON | 5. DAVID YURMAN at BLOOMINGDALE’S - DUBAI | 6. GUCCI at OUNASS | 7. PIAGET
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Photography: Rosdiana Ciaravolo/Getty
MOJEH BEAUTY
Somali-American Model Halima Aden was the first beauty pageant contestant in America to wear a hijab
THE EVOLUTION OF EASTERN BEAUTY Once influenced by iconic historical figures, Arab beauty enthusiasts are now inspired by the region’s social media-savvy bloggers, who encourage experimentation and expression through make-up
Words by Hafsa Lodi
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T
here’s a certain stereotypical image of the Arab woman that has come to represent her across media and literature. She’s veiled, with only her eyes visible. They’re lined with thick kohl, smokey shadow and dramatic cat-eye wings. Sometimes, ornate head jewellery, or a Henna-adorned hand will make it into the frame too. And while bold eye make-up is indeed a hallmark of Middle Eastern beauty, today’s Arab woman carries far more than just an eye palette in her make-up pouch. The vast world of cosmetics is an enchanting world for her, offering an outlet for creative expression and sometimes, escapism. Idols throughout Middle Eastern history have inspired her make-up practices and in today’s digital age, beauty bloggers influence her cosmetic investments. Over the past few years, data analysed by Euromonitor International shows that Middle Eastern women are major players when it comes to the booming beauty business. When spending habits in the rest of the world dipped during the 20072010 recession, women in the Middle East continued to splurge on prestige cosmetics. In 2016, consumers in the GCC spent Dhs34.2 billion on beauty products, with numbers projected to rise over the next few years. And, in Saudi Arabia alone, the average working woman reportedly spends up to 80 per cent of her monthly salary on make-up and skincare products. Beauty is deeply embedded into the culture here, more so than in western societies, perhaps because the abaya is a regional fashion staple, leaving wearers only with
their hands and faces uncovered. “Beauty is key for those who like to cover and dress in abayas – the only thing left for them to show the world is their face, and it’s the only place they can be creative to showcase their personality or character,” explains Shaheena Usman, co-founder of newly-launched fragrance brand Sous Arabia, which was a sponsor at last month’s MyBeautyFest fair in Dubai. In a region that has had its fair share of political turmoil, beauty has continued to play a pivotal role in the lives of its women, sometimes symbolising liberty and rebellion. The Arab woman is often thought to be ultra-conservative, duty-bound and homely, living a segregated lifestyle in a strict, patriarchal household. And at times, these generalisations have rung true for females, who have found safe havens in spas and salons, where they are free to experiment with their appearances. “Growing up, I was fascinated by the atmosphere and vibes bred in those exclusive spaces by women, where looks can change in a matter of hours if not minutes: from changing your hair colour and style, to applying make-up and shaping your eyebrows, allowing you to see yourself in a different way,” explains Bodour Al Hilali, founder of Belle Femme salon and co-founder of Beauty Pop: an upcoming beauty-themed lifestyle event taking place from April 19-21 at Dubai Design District. The sheer number of salons scattered across the Middle East are a testament to the Arab woman’s fixation on grooming. And while the recent influx of beauty bloggers may seem to be the source of the current widespread beauty movement, this
Photography: Stephane Cardinale - Corbis/Getty
French-Algerian model Farida Khelfa poses in front of an old picture of herself (left)
Afef Jnifen’s exotic looks have stood the test of time
“
Beauty is such a huge part of the Middle Eastern culture and history; it’s as though it’s in your blood to love beauty if you are Middle Eastern. Mona Kattan
Photography: Agostino Fabio/Getty and Samir Hussein/Getty
Hanaa Ben Abdesslem was Lancôme’s first muslim spokesperson
fascination with skincare and cosmetics has been engrained in Arab cultures since time immemorial. “Beauty is such a huge part of the Middle Eastern culture and history; it’s as though it’s in your blood to love beauty if you are Middle Eastern,” says Mona Kattan, founder of The Dollhouse Salon. Beauty secrets and traditions, she explains, are passed down over generations in Arab families. “A lot of Middle Eastern women use ingredients from around the home because it’s what their mothers and grandmothers did for so many years, and they trust it. When it comes to skincare, we love natural ingredients — like using coconut oil to remove our make-up, castor oil for our brows, or rose water as a toner. These beauty trends are deeply embedded in our culture.” One historical figure can be accredited for popularising some of these beauty practices, like using rose water for skincare. Perhaps the oldest known beauty icon of the region is Egypt’s Queen Cleopatra, who is known to have washed her face and body with rose water, exfoliate with sea salt, soften her hair with olive oil, and use a mask of grape and honey to lighten her skin. But the Queen of the Nile’s legacy extends far further than just that of a beautiful ruler — she was known to be clever, cunning and ruthless, and played a key role in shaping her nation’s history. More contemporary beauty icons from the region are also known for far more than their looks, gaining popularity for their work in the entertainment or fashion fields and becoming regional icons not only for their talent and physical allure, but for the ideals of freedom, confidence and independence that they embody. Syrian singer and actress Asmahan for instance, emigrated to Egypt in 1926, and was known to have beautiful features and a smouldering gaze. Her musical flair, coupled with her striking looks, led her on a path of adventure and espionage, before she was killed in a suspicious car crash. She allegedly played a role during World War II as a spy for the MI6, and was sent to notify her Syrian village that the British and French were coming to invade. Lebanese singer Fairuz, who bears a striking resemblance to Lady Gaga, rose to fame in the ’60s and earned the title ‘The First Lady of Lebanese Singing.’ Her distinctive bold, lined lips and deep eyelids brushed with ghoulish shadow, inspired women to diversify their palettes and elect for more brazen hues. Fairuz lived in Lebanon throughout the nation’s civil war, and while the country was in conflict about religion, sect and government, they all adored her voice, inspiring the popular Arabic saying,
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Moroccan-British beauty Nora Attal has a unique beauty, seen here backstage at Lanvin
When it comes to beauty, you have the world’s most talked-about beauty influencers based in the Middle East.
“the Lebanese have disagreed on everything except Fairuz.” Other Arab beauty icons gained their fame in the West. Some, like Farida Khelfa, were never raised in the Middle East, but are nonetheless labelled as symbols of the empowered Arab woman. At the age of 16, Farida fled the home of her traditional Algerian parents and moved to Paris, where she ended up working as a model for Jean-Paul Goude and Azzedine Alaïa, who were captivated by her unconventional beauty. Jean-Paul and Azzedine were also enamoured with Tunisian model Afef Njifen — a feisty, outspoken daughter of a politician, who even spent a night in jail in the ’80s after hitting back at a police officer during a political coup In Tunisia. Another Tunisian model — Hanaa Ben Abdesslem — was signed by Lancôme in 2012, making her the brand’s first-ever Muslim spokesperson. Early stories of her rise to fame were rarely without mention of the Arab Spring, making her too, a poster girl for the liberated Middle Eastern beauty. And Dutch model Imaan Hammam, who has Egyptian and Moroccan ancestry, is another Muslim model who has helped diversify international beauty norms. Though she used to straighten her hair as a young model, she soon embraced her natural, textured curls, which have become her trademark look. Over the past year, the international fashion industry has been flooded with a host of new faces from the MENA region, with models like Halima Aden and Nora Attal becoming recent runway stars. Last year, CoverGirl announced its first Muslim ambassador — hijab-wearing Nura Afifa, who is American, with Lebanese and Moroccan ancestry. 2017 also saw YSL Beauty recruit its first hijab-wearing influencer: Afghan-Dutch blogger, Ruba Zai. In the post- 9-11 era, these young women are becoming role models in the realm of fashion and beauty, and they also represent deeper ideals relating to religion and multiculturalism, becoming beacons of inspiration for Middle Eastern women worldwide. Social media is where many of these millennial beauties thrive, thanks to apps like Instagram and sites like YouTube. The modern-day beauty icons in this region, explains Shaheena of Sous Arabia, are the influencers who give their followers access to their daily lives — including their beauty routines, where they reveal what products they use and how to use them. “When it comes to beauty, you have the world’s most talked-about beauty influencers based in the Middle East, such as Huda Beauty — her following (24.5 million on Instagram) is crazy, and she is a prime example of how beauty is using social media as a basis for generating sales
Dutch model of Egyptian and Moroccan descent, Imaan Hammam has been influencing the beauty industry for eight years
Photography: Cindy Ord/Getty
Shaheena Usman
Huda Kattan (right), creator of the blog and beauty brand Huda Beauty, and her sister Mona Kattan, founder of The Dollhouse Salon, have dominated the beauty scene in the Middle East for years
as a business,” she says. Famed Armenian-American make-up artist Hrush Achemyan (2.2 million followers on Instagram), who headlined at MyBeautyFest last month, likens social media to a sort of virtual portfolio, where you can share your work and find new clients. “It has played such a tremendous role in my growth as a celebrity makeup artist and influencer, and I actually landed my first celebrity client via Instagram. Kim Kardashian West discovered my page and I received an email. We have worked together ever since.” Hrush explains that while fashion may be subjective, informed by local cultures and dress codes, beauty products are sought out by all women. “People all around the world, of all different ethnicities, are using similar make-up products,” she says. “This is why beauty bloggers have worldwide, universal influence.” A GFK study commissioned by Facebook found that beauty was the most-viewed topic on Facebook among UAE residents last year, and 88 per cent of beauty buyers in the UAE shop primarily through their mobile phones — likely swayed by the recommendations of beauty influencers on social media. And, many are opting for newer, contemporary beauty brands, such as Nars and Anastasia Beverley Hills, as opposed to sticking to heritage names like Chanel and Dior. “The notion of ‘traditional beauty’ really doesn’t exist anymore,” explains Mona. “Social media has helped to break down barriers and has allowed women all over the world to experiment with different beauty looks that they otherwise wouldn’t have tried.” Today’s Arab beauty buyer has a range of
products in her shopping basket, and her make-up practices are impressionable, to say the least. One morning, red eyeshadow will be in vogue, and the next, iridescent cheeks topped off with shimmer will be the new trending look. “I don’t believe anything will remain a constant, even in the beauty industry. People like to experiment, and trends vary every day,” says Laila Bin Shabib, who founded Absolute Events, and has partnered with Bodour to launch Beauty Pop this month in Dubai. Over the span of a century, the industry has certainly evolved, with social media giving rise to totally new methodologies for exposure. Needless to say, today’s crop of new-age influencers often come across as being somewhat frivolous and seem to lack the substance of more traditional Arabic beauty icons, whose talents surpassed mere make-up skills. Most of these bloggers aren’t equipped with any political acumen, and they don’t lead clandestine spy-lives either. But many of them have found their calling in make-up artistry and are using their exposure to inspire others through beauty tips and tutorials. And while the vehicle for influence may be different, the motivation behind the make-up, and the ideals celebrating freedom, independence and creativity that come with it, have remained consistent over time. Mona vocalises what appears to be something of a motto for beauty enthusiasts, both in this region and beyond: “Anything that allows a woman to feel better about herself is empowering, and even a small amount of make-up has the power to change how you carry yourself.”
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MOJEH BEAUTY
BEAUTY NEWS From the miracles of dragon’s blood and the pioneers of personalised skincare, to some of the region’s newest launches, we breakdown what is happening in the incredible realm of beauty PERFECT PAIRINGS Unwind in The H Dubai’s award-winning Balinese wellness space, Mandara Spa. The venue offers 10 idyllic treatment rooms including two couples’ suites and separate male and female changing facilities that include a thermal and hydrotherapy steam chamber and sauna, a whirlpool and experiential showers. The tranquil retreat has recently launched a new collection of spa experiences featuring the sumptuous skincare brand, Natura Bissé. The Spanish brand, which prides itself on avantgarde technologies and high quality ingredients, has been thoughtfully paired with the expertise of the Mandara Spa’s attentive therapists. Treat yourself to one of the many services on offer, from the Diamond Experience Rose Massage or the Cure Detox Facial to the Oxygen Perfecting Body Massage, to get you into an ultimate state
THE HYDRATOR
THE AGE-DEFYER
THE GLOW
Shiseido Essential Energy Cream
Linda Meredith V-TOX Facial
La Prairie White Caviar Crème Extraordinaire
Combat unruly skin with Shiseido’s Essential
Botox may be something A-listers swear by,
Having discovered the single, most
Energy Moisturizing Cream. Designed to
but it’s certainly not for everyone. Thankfully
powerful illuminating molecule of light,
work as an energising hydrator, with ReNeura
now it doesn’t have to be, thanks to Linda
Lumidose has allowed scientists at La
Technology that reawakens skin sensors, other
Meredith’s V-TOX Facial. Like Botox, the serum
Prairie to develop a cream that promises
ingredients include Ashitaba, a Japanese plant
reduces expression lines when the muscles
to banish dark spots and even out skin
embraced for its regenerative powers, and
contract. This is done by using neuropeptides
tones. Incredibly, the product’s results are
Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract, known to support
and natural algae, which are blended into
measurable within the first two weeks, are
skin’s inner moisture-generating power.
one luxurious serum that firms the skin.
visible in four, and are extraordinary in eight.
At Bloomingdale’s - Dubai
At Harvey Nichols - Dubai
At Harvey Nichols - Dubai
Words: Sophie Pasztor
of relaxation. +971 4 501 8270
Nirvana Black and Nirvana Rose, ELIZABETH AND JAMES
NEW TO THE UAE Perfume and fashion lovers rejoice! Elizabeth and James’s Nirvana fragrance collection has arrived in the Middle East, launching exclusively at Sephora. The Olsen sister’s fragrance portfolio offers Nirvana Black (a woody scent with notes of violet, sandalwood and vanilla), Nirvana White (a floral fragrance with notes of peony, muguet and musk), Nirvana Rose (another floral scent with notes of geranium, rose de mai and vetiver) and Nirvana Bourbon (an oriental essence blending notes of vanilla bourbon, with oakwood and hints of tuberose). At Sephora
ELIZABETH AND JAMES
BASE COAT Get the perfect base with Nars Cosmetics new Natural Radiant Longwear Foundation. Providing 16-hour fade-resistant foundation in 33 skin-matching shades. The incredible staying power is enhanced by an exclusive technology that delivers a uniquely weightless texture that improves the appearance
Dragon’s Blood Cleansing Water and Dragon’s Blood Essence Mist, RODIAL
of skin through a blend of raspberry, apple, and watermelon extracts.
DRAGON’S BLOOD The magical powers of the Sangre de Drago tree has long inspired Rodial’s iconic Dragon’s Blood range. Now, the covetable collection welcomes two new editions: the Dragon’s Blood Cleansing Water and Dragon’s Blood Essence Mist. Known for its hydrating, plumping and smoothing properties, all of which are achieved by high levels of Hyaluronic acid, which essentially puts the brakes on the ageing process while helping to replenish the skin and encourage cell renewal. At Harvey Nichols - Dubai
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Left to right: Dior Addict Lacquer Plump in 327 Glitterati., DIOR | Eye Gloss in Clear, TOM FORD BEAUTY | The Exotique Diamond Eye Gloss in Cosmic, KEVYN AUCOIN at NET-A-PORTER
LOST FOR GLOSS Just like the PVC clothes on the runway, beauty is experiencing a glossover. Latex-like lids were spotted backstage at Preen by Thornton Bregazzi, where wet-look shadows offered a fresh update to traditional pigments. Look to brands such as Kevyn Aucoin and Tom Ford who have formulated lightweight glosses to transform any colour into a high-shine, glassy finish. PREEN BY THORNTON BREGAZZI
BEAUTIFUL INSIDE & OUT “My earliest memory of make-up was using my mum’s red lipstick in her dresser while she wasn’t watching,” recalls Barkha Shewakramani, founder of Barkha Beauty. “I was so fascinated by her glamour and beauty that I knew it right then that one day I will have my own beauty brand — I even have a lipstick shade named after her.” Barkha Beauty was conceptualised out of Barkha’s personal quest to find the perfect foundation. A sufferer of eczema, she struggled to find products that are hypoallergenic and provide good coverage and a flawless finish. Her newly launched collection includes a range of liquid matte lipsticks, an all-inone concealer and foundation, highlighter and a kit of promises to take care of all your beauty needs, but it is also striving to make a difference in the lives of others. A large percentage of profits raised from the line will be donated to the Hothur Foundation, a charitable organisation that gives a voice to acid attack survivors in India. “We are planning an event where we will do live transformations on survivors using my beauty products,” Barkha reveals. Available at Quara in La Mer Liquid Matte Long Stay Lipsticks, BARKHA BEAUTY
Photography: Borna Ahadi. Stylist: Sophie Pasztor
professional make-up brushes. Barkha Beauty not only
PERSONALISED SKINCARE Ma Crème and Cell Protector, IOMA
Jean Michel Karam is the creative mind behind IOMA, a Parisian brand established in 2002 that changes the way in which we view skincare. IOMA is a gamechanger, offering pioneering personalised skincare that provides the best level of care and treatment for the skin. “What we provide is the ability for every consumer to have a skin diagnostic, which is the most advanced, using the highest standard of technology”, explains Jean Michel. “We use this same technology to make our diagnostic devices which characterise your skin, and based on this, we automatically recommend your unique regimen and bespoke product that can go in your formula.” Since its inception in 2002, other likeminded brands have followed IOMA’s lead, creating somewhat of a phenomenon in skincare. However, as Jean Michel explains, “the most important thing in personalisation is that it’s not about being the epitome of luxury but of being the foundation of efficacy.” At Bloomingdale’s - Dubai
Fullscreen Lash Mascara and Private Shadow in Violet Vinyl 03, TOM FORD
FRESH FRAGRANCE
EASY ON THE EYES
A remake of a classic, the new Black Opium Eau de Toilette is a
Tom Ford breaks into a new realm of beauty with the introduction
play on the original 2014 edition — Black Opium. This specially
of his first collection focused on the eyes. The comprehensive range
formulated blend incorporates signature Black Coffee accords
covers all your beauty bag essentials, complete with clutch-sized
with fruity citrus notes and a white flower compound, designed to
powder eyeshadows, mascaras, kohl eyeliners and a clear eye gloss
enhance while energising with one fragrance spritz. At Sephora
to achieve the perfect eye-catching look.
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MOJEH BEAUTY
Fragrance’s Formidable Force Spanning seasons and crossing geographical borders, there are certain perfumes that break the rules, remaining untouched by trends. From No. 5 to J’adore and CK One, MOJEH applauds these untouchable icons
Words by Laura Beaney
Photography: Chanel
Hollywood star Marilyn Monroe, photographed here in 1955, was well-known for her obsession with Chanel No.5 perfume
176 Jean Shrimpton photographed by Helmut Newton, 1971
Chanel No. 5 depicted by caricaturist and poster artist SEM, 1927
Lily-Rose Depp’s first fragrance campaign for Chanel’s No. 5 L’Eau
Photography: Chanel
Nicole Kidman photographed by Patrick Demarchelier, 2006
“Not vision, not hearing, touch, nor even taste — so nearly François has revisited Dior’s iconic perfumes, keeping akin to smell — none other, only the nose calls up from them inline with the times yet protecting their profound the vasty deep with such verity those sham, cinematic identity. “I’ve redesigned Miss Dior Eau de Parfum by materialisations we call memories,” wrote Roy Bedichek lightning its patchouli notes and emphasising a sensual in The Sense of Smell (1960). Indeed, scent more than and vivacious Grasse Rose. For J’adore, I created J’adore any other human sense, has the ability to emote, engage, In Joy, which reinvents its floral charm by giving it an and excite, which explains the enduring global success unexpected hint of salt. Each time, I inject a modern the perfume industry has enjoyed. Perfume’s significance element into compositions that speak to women — all transcends cultural and societal boundaries from the women,” he continues. days when the Persians first used distillation to extract What other luxury item might appeal to a 60-year-old oils from flowers to its present incarnation as a universal woman in Beijing in the same way that it does a 13-yearbeauty cabinet staple. But interestingly many of the old teen in Santa Barbara? Perfumes may come and go, perfumes we continue to covet today were first developed but there’s certain fragrances that breach the code of in the Twenties. Guerlain Shalimar (1925) is an oriental trends, enduring the passing of seasons, appealing to fragrance often described as the all-time ‘sexiest scent’, multiple generations, and cropping up in unexpected inspired by the love story of Emperor Shahjahan and corners of the globe. But what accounts for the 70-year worn by such standout female figures as Joan Collins, staying power of a cult classic like Miss Dior? Rita Hayworth, and Meryl Streep, while Chanel No. 5 In the past, perfumery was known as a world typically (1921) has been an unmovable closed off and steeped in best-seller in the UK for family tradition, its nuances the last 25 years, adored by handed down from generation “These perfumes are Catherine Deneuve, Kate to generation, or hidden icons, handed down from Moss, and Marilyn Monroe in the storied laboratories generation to generation. of Grasse. But thanks to who famously quipped: “What do I wear in bed? Why, Chanel cultural shifts in perspective They continue to speak to No. 5 of course.” and the innovation of new women today because they technologies the industry This staying power is are so skillfully composed” has opened up to a whole a significant feat in the now new market, and with this fickle world of luxury. If we François Demachy look to fashion, the recent rise advent our understanding and of streetwear saw houses like expectations of fragrance have Gucci and Louis Vuitton rapidly rethink their collections vastly transformed. During the Eighties the invention and advertising approach to appeal to a new generation of ‘headspace technology’ revolutionised our approach with a new mindset, but their core fragrances have stayed to ingredients. For the first time, perfumers were able true to their roots. Instantly recognisable at first whiff, to capture the odour compounds in the air surrounding since their early days classics like Dior’s J’adore Dior objects to recreate a synthetic scent from something that (1999), and Yves Saint Laurent’s Opium (1977), have wasn’t previously extractable like petrol, water droplets, seldom deviated from their iconic branding, formulations, or tarmac. and packaging, but when they were first revealed these All of a sudden the industry known for playing it safe and icons were marked out as renegades. Chanel No. 5’s affirming gender binaries with static womens’ and mens’ purposefully simple flask was, for example, a stark aromas saw the delicate florals, musks, and fruity notes contrast to the baroque bottles that were fashionable at assigned to women and the spice, smoke, and wood for the time, while Miss Dior (1947) was a green chypre that men become much less significant. Over the next three stood out in an endless landscape of powdery perfumes. decades perfumers became increasingly experimental “In the same way, J’adore arrived on the scene with its with their ingredients and inspirations. Demeter’s extraordinary floral bouquet in the middle of a trend ‘Dirt’, État Libre d’Orange’s ‘Jasmin et Cigarette’, and for unisex fragrances that were somewhat cold and Christopher Brosius’ ‘In The Library’ are characteristic streamlined,” explains François Demachy who has of this movement. Then, during the Nineties, Calvin been the nose at Parfums Christian Dior since 2006. Klein’s CK One (1994), a clean and fresh contemporary
178 icon in its own right took down the concept of gendered that we all crave. “My father used to wear Eau Sauvage perfumes becoming our first unisex fragrance. Since then by Christian Dior,” shares Alberto. “Its remarkable our idea of smells being either masculine or feminine freshness of Mediterranean citrus and aromatics marked my childhood.” In fact, our memory greatly have become completely unhinged. Today, our perfumes are gender fluid and unrestricted in informs our taste for scent, and the success of Thierry terms of ingredients, with Blood Concept’s Blood Type or Mugler’s Angel is testament to this. Composed of the Killian Wells’ Barbie doll aroma, Plastic By Trixie Mattel, smells of his childhood, the saccharine sweet aromas of proving that previously defining characteristics are no candy floss and toffee apples are paired with strawberry, longer required. Known for game-changing offerings like dewberry and coconut. A fresh, soft, citrus scent with Ambre sultan and Tubéreuse, in 2017 Serge de Lutens notes of lavender and verbena, Acqua di Parma Colonia added to Lutens’ Collection Noire with Dent de Lait (1916) bottles up memories of family holidays and became (milk teeth) a fragrance that comes with a description symbolic of Italian elegance. Beloved by male and female that includes ‘loose teeth, milk, blood, and a young wolf.’ celebrities like Cary Grant, David Niven, Ava Gardner, In 2018 it’s difficult to shock, but despite our many avant- and Audrey Hepburn, its formulation has remained garde options, concept perfumes sometimes fall short of unchanged throughout its 100 years in the spotlight. expectations feeling gimmicky, unwearable, or fading fast. “In order for a scent to appeal to multiple generations “Nowadays we often mention specific expectations from the scents should release pleasant and mellow emotions the millennials and identified a quest for authenticity, from past moments within the family,” insists Frau Tonis, quality and naturality that a Berlin-Based perfumer whose eponymous store is naturally fit their mood and personality,” says Alberto inspired by her grandmother’s “In order for a scent to appeal Morillas, the nose behind penchant for exotic scents. to multiple generations Bulgari’s Le Gemme Reali Through art, fashion and the scents should release collection. “I’m convinced food we seek comfort and the other generations escapism so it makes sense pleasant and mellow that we would want to wear wouldn’t deny this ambition emotions from the past towards fragrances,” he a scent that conjures up the moments within the family” continues. And François same positive feelings. “The is in agreement: “At Dior, beauty of extraordinary scents Frau Tonis the firstborn of the house is: they function as an ‘inner fragrances Miss Dior, along cinema’,” Frau enthuses. “You with J’adore, are models of longevity and enduring close your eyes and remember a special moment in your modernity. These perfumes are icons, handed down life. Perhaps you associate a scent with the first kiss or an from generation to generation. They continue to speak unforgettable vacation in Tuscany. I’m committed to the to women today because they are so skillfully composed. scent of edible wild herbs and clover. Behind my parents’ They were created to emphasise the beauty, freedom, joie house was a big wild meadow, which was the scene of my de vivre and strength of women. I believe these themes endless childhood summers,” she continues. are still current,” he insists. Quality and attention to An intimate and personal preference that rides upon detail are two things that will never go out of style, but many variables, the chance of one definitive scent a perfume’s success relies upon many additional factors. attracting drones of women is slim, which makes the “Brand, concept, name, creativity. It’s not just about the unwavering and universal allure of fragrances like fragrance,” says Alberto. “In my opinion, a good fragrance No. 5, Colonia, and J’adore all the more miraculous. has a distinctive signature that drives the desire to wear Upending traditional approaches to perfume at their it, no matter the generation. A fragrance whose trail is birth and quickly becoming an exception to rules, seminal strong enough to be easily recognisable by anyone.” scents have the ability to entrance magnificent female Our preference for a certain fragrance also runs deeper. figures from Monroe to Moss, enliven our emotions The interconnection between scent and our emotions is and reawaken fond memories which is why we can rest a powerful one. Uniquely, a smell has the power to trigger assured that there are certain scents that will never the reassuring feelings of happiness, nostalgia, and love fade from our favour.
Photography: Elena Lukyanchuk. Stylist: Sophie Pasztor
Clockwise from top: My Burberry Black, BURBERRY | Knot, BOTTEGA VENETA | Guilty Absolute Pour Femme, GUCCI | Velvet Amber Skin, DOLCE & GABBANA | Fleur de Peau Eau de Parfum, DIPTYQUE
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BEAUTY IN FOCUS
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DARE TO BLUSH The runways were peppered with a plethora of pink shades, spanning from rose to neon. This season, application is experimental, with pigment applied to the lids and cheeks in a sweeping wash of colour.
A. DÉTACHER
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BYBLOS
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1. Météorites Heart Shape Glow-Shaping Strobing Palette in Teinte Universelle, GUERLAIN | 2. L’Arbre Illuminé Palette, CHANTECAILLE at NET-A-PORTER | 3. Cheek To Chic Swish & Pop Blusher in Love Is The Drug, CHARLOTTE TILBURY at NET-A-PORTER | 4. Velour Extreme Lipstick in Neon Pink Fab, LAURA MERCIER at BLOOMINGDALE’S DUBAI | 5. My Burberry Blush Palette, BURBERRY BEAUTY | 6. Natural Radiant Longwear Foundation in Aruba, NARS at SEPHORA
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Words: Sophie Pasztor
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FRESH-FACED Stay on trend and keep things fresh with a natural look for spring. Focus on accentuating features such as brows and cheekbones for an elevated day look, while keeping skin healthy, glowing and hydrated.
PROENZA SCHOULER
3 ISABEL MARANT
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1. Brow Kit in Light, BOBBI BROWN | 2. Good Genes Treatment, SUNDAY RILEY at NET-A-PORTER | 3. Cleanser Concentrate, KYPRIS BEAUTY at NET-A-PORTER | 4. Anti-Pollution Mattifying Cream, CHANTECAILLE at NET-A-PORTER | 5. The Ritual of Ayurveda Hand Balm, RITUALS | 6. Moisturizing Cream, LA MER at HARVEY NICHOLS - DUBAI
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MOJEH TRAVEL
A ROOM WITH A VIEW Looking for inspiration? These destinations offer aesthetic interiors and views that will feed the imagination
ADVENTURES IN AFRICA One of the most spectacular natural wonders of the world, Victoria Falls is a bucket list destination steeped in the kind of wild romance that only Africa can offer. Situated only 10 minutes away from a private entrance directly into the park, The Royal Livingstone Hotel by Anantara couldn’t be more desirably located for those with a sense of adventure. Offering unlimited access to the park, days are spent exploring the breathtaking Victoria Falls by riverboat, and nights are for watching the zebra and impala grazing on the banks of the Zambezi River as the sun sets, from the terrace of your Deluxe Room. Royal-livingstone.anantara.com
MAGICAL MAURITIUS Interior designer Kelly Hoppen’s latest project is the stylish LUX* Grand Gaube on the picturesque island of Mauritius. Designed with easy living in mind, book into an elegantly-appointed room, junior suite or private pool villa, all of which come with uninterrupted views of the Indian Ocean, to assist you in reaching a new level of relaxation. Spend time drfiting between the three swimming pools and two flawless beaches for days lazing in the sun, or indulge at one of the many dining destinations after treating yourself in the LUX* Me Spa. Luxresorts.com
TRAVEL EDIT
ADULTS ONLY If a private getaway without the children is what you most desire, Victoria Beachcomber Resort & Spa in Mauritius has launched a new concept as part of its already established luxury escape portfolio. ‘Victoria for 2’ is an adults-only wing of the beachside resort that consists of 40 terraced rooms that include swim-up options which are the first of their kind on the island. To add to the adult exclusivity, the new steakhouse Morris Beef offers barefoot dining without a child in sight. Luxury incarnate. Beachcombertours.uk
ROMANCE IN MARRAKECH The reputation of Mandarin Oriental is well-deserved for its unrivalled approach to luxury, and the Marrakech property is a shining example. Fusing the hotel’s know-how with local culture has resulted in a stunning resort that offers all the hospitality of Moroccan traditions with the timeless elegance the hotel group is known for. Situated within 20 hectares of landscaped gardens filled with 100,000 roses and set against a backdrop of the Atlas mountains, the property offers 54 private villas in the style of Moroccan riads and penthouse suites with breathtaking panoramic vistas. Mandarinoriental.com/marrakech
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PARIS, JE T’AIME Nowhere does romance quite like Paris: the food, the fashion, and the Eiffel Tower set the scene for the perfect weekend away. La Réserve Hotel and Spa has recently renovated its iconic Imperial Suite in the “spirit of Emperor Napoleon” — all red shades and handpicked antiques — to give the 118 square-metre space regal appeal. When not roaming the streets of the city or dining in the hotel’s Michelin-starred restaurant Le Gabriel, sip something cold on the terrace while looking out across a stunning Parisian skyline that features the Grand Palais, the Eiffel Tower and the steeple of Notre-Dame. Lareserve-paris.com
EXPLORE BARCELONA A cultural mélange, Barcelona is a vibrant city that offers everything from great food and shopping, to art and architecture. It will keep you on your feet, so it’s best to stay central and the Mandarin Oriental, Barcelona on Passeig de Gràcia is an ideal choice. The modern interior design by Patricia Urquiola is complementary to the classic contemporary backdrop of the bustling Barcelona that you will watch from the terrace of your suite. Mandarinoriental.com/barcelona
MY PARIS
Le Jardin du Luxembourg
By Judith Milgrom, creative director of Maje Judith Milgrom
“I live in the 16th district of Paris which is in the northwest of the city. It’s a quiet and serene neighbourhood. There’s great daylight in the apartment. I like the scale of the space and the large wooden windows.”
“On my day off, I like walking in the streets of Paris, visiting galleries and sitting at a café for a hot chocolate. I love Le Jardin du Luxembourg, especially during the weekend.”
Françoise Hardy
Naomi Campbell walks Chanel’s spring/ summer 1994 runway
Photography: Guy Marineau/Getty and David Cairns/Getty. As told to Natascha Haw
“I have many fond memories of Paris. It’s the city where I live, where I founded Maje. I remember the opening day of our first shop: I stayed in front of the shop before the doors were open to see who would come in and I could not believe that so many women would enter the space and leave it full of shopping bags!”
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Françoise Hardy epitomises Parisian cool for me – her style and her beauty are timeless. Judith Milgrom
“I love vintage shops, vintage Yves Saint Laurent from the ’70s, vintage Alaïa from the ’80s and vintage Chanel. I also love shoes. Manolo Blahnik does beautiful shoes and although their heels are very high, they’re still comfortable.”
WHERE TO EAT Café de Flore, 172 boulevard St Germain; Cafedeflore.fr Takara, 14 Rue Molière; Takar-paris.com Caviar Kaspia, 17 Place de la Madeleine; Caviarkaspia.com Cibus, 5 Rue Molière; +33 1 42 615 019 Aux Prés by Cyril Lignac, 27 Rue de Dragon;
Café de Flore
Restaurantauxpres.com Le Duc, 243 Boulevard Raspail; Restaurantleduc.com Spring/summer 2018, MAJE
“If I want to people-watch I sit on a terrace like Café de Flore where you see many stylish women of different ages walking by.”
Photographed by Marco Cella, MOJEH Issue 28
MOJEH.COM Our carefully curated digital platform delivers engaging, inspiring and timely content with exclusive access to the industry’s most influential players.
CULTURE EDIT GET CREATIVE READY FOR -ING? Injecting a dose of art and design to the culture scene in Dubai is the much-awaited –Ing Creative Festival. Back for its fourth consecutive year, the event — taking place at Dubai Design District from April 11-13 — will bring together renowned designers, animators and calligraphers from across the globe. Creative minds and their enthusiasts can learn tricks of the trade from industry experts, while participating in workshops hosted by calligrapher Seb Lester, graphic designer Jessica Walsh — best known for her collaborations with Jay-Z, Levi’s, Adobe and The New York Times — and ‘design junkie’ Mitch Sinclair. Other notable speakers include Google’s senior designer Joel Beukelman and advertising guru Ramsey Naja. Choose from around 50 workshops, spread across three days to take your talent to the next level. A three-day pass is available for Dhs920; Ingcreatives.com
Sunny The RV, Salvation Mountain California, Frankie Ratford, courtesy of the artist
Clothing, WINDE RIENSTRA
SPOTLIGHT ON: WINDE RIENSTRA Dutch-born Winde Rienstra had one goal at the age of 12, to be a fashion designer. “I just knew I wanted to do something creative,” she says. That dream waned with time, as she tested out other careers, including being an art teacher. It was only until she watched The Lunatics perform at a theatre festival that she realised her true calling was in fashion. “The costumes were interesting, the nature setting, décor with the lighting in the dunes — it was just magical,” she says. Visiting the Middle East for the first time for -Ing Creative Festival, Winde will be hosting two accessory design workshops this year (April 11 and 12, 2:50pm - 5:50pm) while retailing accessories, and exhibiting a selection of handbags and shoes. The fashion designer’s latest collection is inspired by the Royal Eise Eisinga Planetarium in Franeker, Netherlands, for which the Tilburg Textile Museum has Words: Nicola Raf
helped her develop three designs on their unique machinery. “I’m looking forward to interacting with the talent,” she says about -Ing Creative Festival. “I’m looking forward to meeting new people with different perspectives to inspire me.” As for the future? Winde is working on several collaboration projects, “which I am very excited about.”
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My main source of inspiration is the Planetarium of Eise Eisinga (1971) in Franeker. Winde Rienstra
188 From left: Untitled artwork from Resurrection Series, Khaled Zaki, courtesy of the artist; Mr. W, Atelier M paintings, courtesy of the artist
A TALE OF REALITY French artist, Myriam Schryve paints under the name ‘Atelier M paintings’, and has always been drawn to items that are slightly unconventional. Mr. W is part of her Inner Vision exhibition, which takes into consideration the limitations of the visually impaired. Each piece portrays a person the artist followed for 10 years, and each painting is known to provoke a reaction. Meanwhile, Egyptian artist Khaled Zaki’s series of nine sculptures are on display at Tabari Artspace. Comprised of marble, his untitled work — inspired by shrapnel from the aftermath of the Egyptian revolution of 2011 — depicts the geopolitical unrest in the Middle East. Inner Vision at La Galerie, Alliance Francaise Dubai, until May 5; Resurrection at Tabari Artspace, until April 25
FUSING ART FORMS “[I have] a desire to create paintings and sculptures. It ends up being your existence, obsession and necessity,” says Manolo Valdés, a celebrated Spanish artist who is exhibiting in the UAE this month. “The Dubai show is very special because it is the first time I am going to a country where few people know my work.” Manolo’s topic types include portraits, still-life and landscape, and he is excited to showcase his work in the Middle East. “When I travel to a new place, I open my eyes more and I get very excited because I am going to encounter something new.” Manolo has plans to exhibit in Geneva, Zurich and Italy later this year but, for now, is focusing on Dubai. “In addition to paintings, I am bringing monumental sculptures that will be installed on the streets, which means that even those people who will not visit the exhibition itself will still be able to see my work and enjoy it.” At Opera Gallery Dubai, until April 14
Mariposas Plateadas, Manolo Valdés, 2017, courtesy of the artist and Opera Gallery Dubai
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Nothing would make me happier than the Dubai public connecting to my work. Manolo Valdés
The Sweet Escape, photographed by Adam Secore, MOJEH Issue 21
MARK YOUR CALENDAR Get your fascinator ready for the Dubai Polo Gold Cup 2018, taking place on April 6-13 at Al Habtoor Polo & Resort Club. A series of the two premier Polo Tournaments in the Middle East, this cup is a medium eight-toten goal handicap tournament that witnesses Dubai’s socialites in their finest attire. The family-friendly event is a calendar highlight, and one not to be missed. Dubaipologoldcup.com
New Zealand and Australian chefs Jesse Blake (left) and Kate Christou are launching a new food concept, Lowe, in partnership with KOA, to re-energise the food scene in the UAE
From left: Flair No. 5, The Ritz Carlton DIFC; Mina Brasserie, Four Seasons Hotel DIFC
DINING HOTSPOTS DIFC has become a gastronomic hub at the centre of the city, especially with the launch of Mina Brasserie in the region’s Four Seasons Hotel. A contemporary eatery complete with a sprawling al fresco terrace, guests can expect seasonal dishes including za’atar salmon and caviar with shallot potato cake, succulent wood-fired lamb chops, and decadent desserts such as the restaurant’s s’mores bar. Flair No. 5 at The Ritz-Carlton, DIFC is another place to visit for chilled out lounge beats and a botanically-influenced menu comprising sharing-style dishes such as charred rosemary flatbread. Sit back, unwind and “build your own drink” with a selection of fruits, herbs and spices. And keep your eyes peeled for Lowe, the all-new gourmet concept by KOA launching on The Palm Jumeirah this April. With New Zealand and Australian chefs Jesse Blake and Kate Christou at the helm of the kitchen, diners are in for a treat — the menu focuses on a sustainable and homegrown philosophy that is very of the moment.
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MOJEH INTERVIEW
THE DECISION MAKER Tunisian curator Myriam Ben Salah speaks about her background, curatorial practice, and relationship with Art Dubai, having just coordinated this year’s edition of the prestigious Abraaj Group Art Prize
Photography: Borna Ahadi. Stylist: Sophie Pasztor
Words by Annie Darling
Myriam wears top and trouser by Sem Sem, shoes by Stuart Weitzman
Photography: Art Dubai
This page, from left: Trompe l’Oeil, Basma Alsharif, 2016; The Digger, Ali Cherri, 2015. Courtesy of the artists and Galerie Imane Farès
“Good artwork starts with a very simple and human concept, which materialises in a very strong image. I think that when the viewer sees the work, he should be able to appreciate it without any context, but at the same time, when he gets the layers of meaning, it just makes his appreciation grow.” Based in Paris, curator Myriam Ben Salah has firmly established herself as a force in the European and Middle Eastern art scenes. “It has to have both the aesthetic ability to grab one’s attention, and also the background layering of meaning that is both relevant and well designed,” Myriam explains, when asked to describe what pushes ordinary artworks into the realm of the extraordinary. An avid writer, in addition to being the editor-in-chief of the international edition of Kaleidoscope Magazine, Myriam has long coordinated special projects and public programmes, mostly on behalf of Palais de Tokyo, where she has worked since 2009. The Tunisian creative first launched her career at the dynamic space shortly after graduating from business school. She describes her choice of higher education as “unexpected”, largely because of her creative tendencies. “I met someone from Palais de Tokyo, this huge art space in Paris, and we were talking about their mission at the museum,” she recollects. “I found it very interesting and randomly sent an email to start an internship there, which I did.” Not long after, Myriam became addicted to experiencing
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I think the moving image is really something interesting and of our time. Myriam Ben Salah
art in all its guises, and has since organised shows in some of the world’s most distinguished galleries, often forging long-term relationships with celebrated creatives such as Austrian philosopher Armen Avanessian and Italian sculptor Maurizio Cattelan. “I started meeting artists and curators and I started reading. I just started taking everything in I could, as I knew it would do a lot for my career.” Notable curatorial projects include I Hear You Laughing at Galerie Gregor Staiger in Zurich, which showcased the works of regional artists including Meriem Bennani, Fatima Al Qadiri, Khalid Al Gharaballi and Sophia Al Maria. “I definitely have something for new media and video,” Myriam readily admits, when asked about her favoured art form. “I think the moving image is really something interesting and of our time. I like the way it mixes with more mainstream formats.” Despite her appreciation for and knowledge of different types of artistry, Myriam says that she “couldn’t work in a gallery” because she prefers to nurture talent rather than commercialise it. “I couldn’t sell art,” she laughs, “I really couldn’t. I’m really on the creative side, trying to make artists produce what they can produce.” Despite her education, she adds with irony: “I don’t think that there is any business involved in my job, whatsoever.” Her occupation is surprising, considering her family history. “Both of my parents are doctors,” she reveals.
192 Trembling Lanscapes (Beirut), Ali Cherri, 2014. Courtesy of the artist and Galerie Imane Farès
A Convention of Tiny Movements, Lawrence Abu Hamdan, 2015
High Noon, Basma Alsharif, 2015. Courtesy of the artist and Galerie Imane Farès
“When I grew up, my grandfather in Tunisia used to buy art to support artists from his generation, but other than that, I don’t come from a creative family.” As such, Myriam disagrees with the longstanding perception that the art world is highbrow and discriminative. “I think that there is a bit of misconception about the contemporary art world, because it seems like a very elitist environment. It’s either: you come from there; or you don’t. And even if you come from there it is a very competitive environment.” This isn’t true, she continues. “From my experience, it is really an environment of opportunity and even if you come from another background, if you are willing to work hard and travel the world, and meet the right people, it can be completely open.” Success, she contends, is dependent on one’s observance and exposure. “If you enter the right conversations, especially conversations with artists, I think that’s the way to learn most.” Myriam acknowledges, however, that Middle Eastern artists, in particular, face hurdles that are difficult to overcome. “Working in France and Europe, I’ve come across a lot of misconceptions about artists from the Middle East, and I feel like there are expectations that are put upon them,” she concedes. “We always expect a kind of dramatic storytelling, in a way. Like they [Middle Eastern artists] should pursue narratives about politics or religion or conflict. But I’m realising that the new generation are shifting away from those kinds of narratives, because they’re much better connected.” Many young creatives from the region are finding inspiration online, and have been using websites and apps as a medium for artwork over several years. “This new generation has grown up in a globalised world,” explains Myriam, “so I think their production shouldn’t be defined only by their region, but rather as an artistic production that just makes sense in and of itself.” Setting oneself apart, however, is easier said than done when curators and galleries worldwide continue to define artists by their origins. “They [artists] are always going to find themselves in a show about art from the Middle East, or art from the Arab world,” Myriam sighs. “There is definitely a challenge to get out from under that stereotype.” Thankfully today’s artists are increasingly partnering with edgy digital start-ups to get noticed and reach new audiences. “The younger the generation, the easier it is to break these patterns,” explains Myriam; but despite these advancements limitations remain, many of which she believes reflect larger societal issues. “Until a year ago, I only had my Tunisian passport; I just got my French passport. I realise now that I needed to get a visa for anywhere I went. And that’s true for most of the Middle Eastern artists out there, and this makes it more difficult for them to travel.” Such restrictions make it all the more important that talent is showcased in the Middle East, and the Abraaj Group Art Prize has been pivotal in creating a foundation for the region’s thriving arts ecosystem. Myriam acted as curator for its 10th edition, which was held as
Wissam, Lawrence Abu Hamdan, 2016. Courtesy of the artist and Maureen Paley Gallery
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There is definitely an effort to make women artists more visible but we’re not at an equal level yet. Myriam Ben Salah
part of Art Dubai last month, as it continues to enable emerging artists throughout the Middle East, North Africa and South Asia. “This position really allows me to work with an amazing group of artists,” says Myriam, before adding that this year the jury received a record number of applications from 65 countries. Dhs370,000 was awarded to winning artist Lawrence Abu Hamdan to develop a new commission, while Dhs37,000 was given to three shortlisted artists to support the development of their artistic practice: Basma Alsharif, an artist and filmmaker born in Kuwait of Palestinian origin; Neil Beloufa, a Franco-Algerian artist; and Ali Cherri, a filmmaker and visual artist who splits his time between Beirut and Paris. “Art Dubai is essential,” explains Myriam, about the leading international art fair. “Firstly, because it brings an interesting alternative to all the western art fairs that are very much focused on western art. Art Dubai shows that there is a whole other market. It’s a creative space that’s not focused on western countries. And also, of course, it’s an art fair that involves lots of projects and specific endeavours that are made by artists to bring together a very interesting group of individuals to the region. It makes art much more accessible.” She proudly concludes: “It’s become one of the main stops on the international map of contemporary art, for sure.” Art Dubai also showcases an impressive roster of modern and contemporary female artists, including Iranian creative Avish Khebrehzadeh whose paintings take inspiration from her childhood memories, and Sara Rahbar, whose autobiographical works range from photography to sculpture and installation. “There is definitely an effort to make women artists more visible but we’re not at an equal level yet,” Myriam says. “I know that Art Dubai makes an effort to work with more women artists, and there are lots of galleries also that are run by very powerful women, which is great, but I think the problem is more systemic and it’s not really about Art Dubai. It’s really a more global thing.” Women should be encouraged to pursue their preferred
careers as children, she says. “I think that it is a very long process to get to where we [women] want to get, because I guess it starts with the educational system,” she muses. “Also, the people who are in power now are mostly men, so for the whole structure to change it’s going to take many more years.” Myriam references the 1971 essay, Why Have There Been No Great Women Artists? by American art historian Linda Nochlin, adding that it “describes pretty well the systemic problem we are facing.” She adds, however, that as a curator she works with many women, and not always purposely. “I work with women because they are good at what they do,” she explains. “In that sense, I don’t find any difference between men and women.” Her perspective is refreshing; one that many curators in the region promote and encourage. And with art in the region certainly taking centre stage with numerous galleries, fairs and museums showcasing spectacular works by local and international talent, it would seem Myriam will certainly have her work cut out choosing from the Middle East’s cream of the crop.
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MOJEH INTERIORS
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1. SIEGER BY FÜRSTENBERG at WHITE ALMONDS | 2. MOOOI at HOUSEOLOGY | 3. DIPTYQUE | 4. TOM DIXON at HOUSEOLOGY | 5. EICHHOLTZ TRAPEZIUM at HOUSEOLGY | 6. ANNA BY RABLABS | 7. MAZE CREATIVE CONCEPTS at THOUQI | 8. RITUALS | 9. SIGNED PRINT, PEDRO ALMODÓVAR at TASCHEN
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Creative Hub
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Curate your interior style with contemporary designs in a complementary mix of gold and monochrome.
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Compiled by Sophie Pasztor. Photography: The Pedro Almodóvar Archives. Art Edition Digital C-print, 26.9 x 37.2 cm, leather-bound hardcover, 41.1 x 30 cm, in a silk-screened box with original film strip, 410 pages
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Photography: Borna Ahadi. Stylist: Sophie Pasztor
An avid art collector, Najeh wears a blazer by Gucci, a T-shirt by DKNY, jeans by Stella McCartney, trainers by Jil Sander, a bracelet by Balenciaga and her favourite ring by Idonthaveasister
Life & Style Art enthusiast Najeh Zimmermann brings emerging designers to the forefront at her quaint Jumeirah villa
Words by Nicola Raf
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Najeh wears top and trousers by Etro
A
n art collector’s home can be identical to a gallery, with sculptures, paintings and miniature-framed pieces adorning every bare wall, corner, and surface. Najeh Zimmermann’s three-bedroom house, tucked away in a backstreet of serene Al Manara, is testament to this. Nestled within a villa community boasting sand-hued exteriors, the architecture harks back to traditional Arabic homes with interiors comprising classic tiles and a certain layout style untypical to a newly constructed house. The fact that these slightly dated features lured Najeh in wasn’t a surprise at all for the art and design graduate who moved to Dubai ten years ago. “I’ve always loved Jumeirah villas because of their character and appeal. I went from hotel suite-styled homes to one with charm,” says Najeh, co-founder of Antidote — an online art and design platform. Having previously lived near Dubai Festival City, followed by the Palm Jumeirah, Najeh was on the lookout for something central. The “vintage villa” — as she refers to it — holds within its walls
timeless charm, albeit now with a contemporary touch in the form of a bevy of mixed media pieces. Originally from Pakistan, Najeh considers herself a nomad, having lived in England, Germany, and the United States, before relocating to Dubai. The mother-of-three girls — aged 11, 13 and 15 — has spent most of her career in art and design in some capacity, whether as an art history lecturer at university or as a consultant for Art Dubai, before launching her own company. “I met my partner [French art consultant, Laure Parise] and we decided we wanted to work together and do something different. We finally took that plunge, left everything we were doing and experimented with Antidote,” she says. The concept takes art away from a gallery and museum, showcasing it in a manner where people aren’t overwhelmed or feel distanced. “Galleries can be a bit intimidating for people, which is why we created Antidote,” Najeh reveals. The online space functions between Paris — where her partner resides — and Dubai, focusing on budding designers and artists from across the globe, displaying their pieces at unconventional places including commercial spaces, residences, yachts, tents, and just about anywhere exciting the duo could showcase. “We’ve been doing this for three years and we’re going online with our next phase by launching our e-commerce platform. This year is a pivotal year. We do a lot for our artists and designers, whether it’s funds, awards, or residencies,” says Najeh. Her home is a showcase for up-and-coming designers too, with artists sending across pieces every now and then. Najeh does warn us that the space is incomplete — she only moved in five weeks ago — but the living room is already set up to entertain guests. Stealing the limelight is an Alexander McQueen rug from The Rug Company that brings a solid grey IKEA couch to life. The rosewood and mild-steel coffee table from Coalesce Design Studio in Pakistan holds four hand-crafted ceramic pieces from the Bahraini pavilion at Design Days — an indication of Najeh’s design-led style, fusing looks to create harmony. “I always say I’m drawn to design,” says Najeh. She points to a lightbox piece — a form she loves — titled Dollhouse, that has the name Malala written in it. The frill-adorned design brightens up a corner, adding an element of intrigue. The piece was created about two-to-three years after Pakistani activist Malala Yousafzai was shot. “There were all these theories and the artist Amir Habib, being Pakistani, was a bit tired of hearing the name and wanted people to move on. His work is quite political, but in a way, it also pays homage to her.” A far corner of the room reveals a selection of paintings, photographs and ballpoint sketches
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Galleries can be intimidating for people, which is why we created Antidote. Najeh Zimmermann
This page (clockwise from top left): The Meeting on Friday by Egyptian artist Mohamed Rabie; The Dream which Slept Forever, a wooden chair and cementcasted plane, by Idrees Hanif; Najeh decorates her home with artistic books and photographs of her family; The living room includes a table by Amir Habib, titled Duboo, which is made from wood, glass and LED lights, a three-legged stool by French artist StĂŠphanie Marin, and a design installation (hanging on the right wall), titled Shifting Dunes, by Andre Meyerhans
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This page (clockwise from top left): Girgit Mini Lamp by Tahir Mahmood sits on a sidetable below the painting Grandpa Kleurplaat by Yemeni-American artist Ibrahim Quraishi; Acrylic on paper portraits, titled Portrait #1 and Portrait #2, by Mohamed Rabie; Jor Juk table by Coalesce Design Studio in Pakistan sits on top of an Alexander McQueen rug by The Rug Company
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I prefer design over brands... I would rather buy something with a story or history than just another piece from a boutique. Najeh Zimmermann
Najeh wears top and trousers by Roland Mouret at BySymphony, shoes by Givenchy and cuff by Nina Bakry
from various artists. The wall is festooned with art from France, Egypt, Belgium and Switzerland, each placement indicative of her eye for design and structure. Her style is a depiction of this also, with a chunky Murano glass ring and gold leaf insert, from Italian-brand Idonthaveasister, being one of her favourite accessories. An element of playfulness is prevalent throughout Najeh’s home, with the dining table acting as a creative art form, too. The prototype is a carrom board/poker table that can be played upon. Najeh had the table fitted with glass to make it functional. Her statement yellow chair is another piece that showcases Najeh’s fun side, adding a pop of colour to the living room. Speaking of colour, Najeh is quick to declare her wardrobe is predominantly black, with the only bits of colour coming through via subtle prints and accessories. The entrepreneur leans towards local designer Essa for easy-to-wear pieces with contemporary flair. “I prefer clean lines and love supporting local talent. Most of my pieces are from Essa as they are versatile. I realised my clothes don’t have to be loud, but they speak volumes in different ways,” she says. Since Najeh’s demanding schedule comprises meetings, viewings, and travels, she often finds herself shopping while globetrotting, or gravitating towards trusty Net-a-Porter for convenience. “I prefer design over brands. When I shop, it depends on my mood or pieces that speak to me. I would rather buy something with a story or history than just another piece from a boutique,” she says. Her most recent purchase was a Gucci handbag picked solely for the crystal embellishment and clasp. Najeh’s oldest daughter has followed her mother’s footsteps with all-black ensembles being her go-to option. Does she rummage through her mother’s closet? “She recently asked to borrow my Balenciaga dress for an outing. It’s crazy how they even know these brands,” laughs Najeh, as she mentions how she turned down the request, making her daughter aware of the fact that she needs to work hard and earn it. While her style is quite contemporary, fashion and décorwise Najeh does enjoy an offbeat retro aesthetic. Certain art pieces resemble vintage furniture, with Najeh describing each one as we continue our tour. The Dream which Slept Forever is by a Pakistani artist who had an ambition of becoming a pilot, however, didn’t reach his goal. The heartrending piece is a wooden chair, used in Pakistani schools during an examination, with a cement plane falling off the desk. While a touching story, it infuses character to a vacant area. Najeh also mentions she has a few heirloom pieces from her grandmother, placed carefully around the home. Her personality comes through with details such as the evil eye protection side table and a human-sized tree
that sits alongside a bookshelf crammed with novels and family photos. Her home is best described, in her words, as “quite eclectic and very contemporary, in a way.” It’s apparent that time is of essence to Najeh. “My daughters have these huge lists of items they require for their rooms, and I keep telling them we will get around to shopping.” While she would love to allocate time towards designing her home, Najeh understands it’s a remarkable year for Antidote. In addition to the launch of the e-commerce platform, they will be showcasing their artists’ works in New York, Paris, and the distinguished La Biennale di Venezia — a highlight for Antidote, with the crème de la crème of architectural companies gathering for the occasion. Back in Dubai, the company has been receiving a great response, too. “Dubai is very much the centre right now. It attracts people and has the capacity to absorb.” When compared to the West, Najeh believes that in Dubai it’s easy to prove your worth when it’s good quality. “If you show that you’re dependable and people trust you, that is half of your success.”
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FINAL NOTE
THE
MESSAGE
Michelle Napchan, head of public policy for Instagram across Europe, the Middle East and Africa highlights the importance of expressing kindness and support on social media
teams around the goal of fostering the safest, kindest, most supportive global community. As a result, we’ve rolled out a number of tools and resources to make our community safer and empowered to express themselves. Things like launching a filter that automatically hides the most offensive or inappropriate comments and giving people the option of turning comments off altogether. Our commitment to fostering kindness online also means we get to shine a spotlight on some of the most inspiring accounts in the Middle East who are championing this approach in such exciting ways. We held our first ever ‘Power of Kindness’ panel in Dubai for World Kindness Day where we celebrated some of the communities of support that are growing on Instagram, and the individuals who are building a culture of positivity online through their own accounts. The Middle East is home to some of our most engaged and passionate community members who in the last few months alone have used the new right-to-left functionality to post in Arabic script to express themselves in even more innovative and creative ways on Instagram. As our commitment to well-being and kindness deepens, the inspiration we draw from this region will continue to grow. Today it’s about giving a voice to the people celebrating imperfections and challenging stereotypical concepts, such as ‘perfect’ skin, by sharing fresh-faced selfies using #skinpositivity and #acneisnormal. I always look forward to tomorrow when I can open up Instagram and discover the next trend, account or community who are striving to spread kindness and support to others in new ways. We have barely scratched the surface. Our work is far from finished and our commitment is stronger than ever.
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It’s about giving a voice to the people celebrating imperfections and challenging stereotypical concepts... Michelle Napchan
Shereen Mitwalli Butler, @shereenmitwalli
Luanne D’Souza, @weeshasworld
Photography: Instagram
Michelle Napchan, head of public policy for Instagram EMEA
Instagram’s global community is a pretty remarkable thing and I feel very lucky to watch how so many people use it every day to share stories, connect and support each other. We know, however, that the debate about technology’s impact on our lives is as important as it is challenging, and at Instagram, we want to be part of that conversation — to listen and improve — so that we can help be part of the solution. From all the accounts I follow, some are a real daily reminder to me of the kind of positive change we can bring about by sharing personal stories online and supporting others to do the same. Luanne D’Souza, for example, is using Instagram to challenge the notion of the ‘perfect body’ and help move people away from unhelpful stereotypes when it comes to body image. Similarly, Shereen Mitwalli Butler is on a mission to inspire and offer encouragement to female entrepreneurs in the region, by offering advice and encouragement to young women in direct messages and comments on a regular basis. We want to help foster this positivity, which is why last year our company founders made a public commitment to make Instagram the safest, most supportive online platform. As someone working at the company, when they made this announcement, I know how much has happened and how quickly — we have reassessed priorities, reassigned engineers and researchers, and aligned
Photographed by Dimitri Hyacinthe, MOJEH Issue 55
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