N°63 DEC/JAN
NEW YEAR
FASHION REFRESH
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14 Chairman SHAHAB IZADPANAH
EDITORIAL
ART
Editor in Chief MOJEH IZADPANAH
Production and Creative Direction MOJEH MAGAZINE
Managing Editor NATASCHA HAWKE
Art Director AMIRREZA AMIRASLANI
Acting Fashion & Beauty Editor DINA KABBANI
Graphic Designer BALAJI MAHENDRAN
Sub-Editor SARAH WALKER-DUFTON
PUBLISHING Brand Manager KELLY BALDWIN
Contributing Editors SOPHIE BEW AIMEE DAWSON ANNIE DARLING LAURA BEANEY HAFSA LODI KATE WILLS
Sales Director NADINE CHEHABEDDINE Office Manager JULIA NICOLAE
Guest Fashion Stylists STUART ROBERTSON LUCY REBER DES LEWIS DANEENART BURAKASIKORN NORA SAYURI NUSSNER
Senior Publishing Executive DESIREE LABANDA-GAVERIA Paris Representative GHISLAIN DE CASTELBAJAC Advertising Inquiries Tel: +971 4 553 90 49 Email: advertising@mojeh.com
Contributing Photographers GREG ADAMSKI INA LEKIEWICZ HELENE SANDBERG BENOIT PEVERELLI DEBORA BRUNE TINA PATNI BORNA AHADI
Subscription Tel: +971 4 553 90 49 Email: subs@mojeh.com
LOUIS FOURTEEN FOR MOJEH Tel: +971 4 425 86 00 Email: louis@louisfourteen.com Published under HS Media Group FZ LLC Registered at Dubai Design District Building No. 8, Offices 212 P.O.Box 502333, Dubai, UAE.
Cover photographed by BENOIT PEVERELLI Model Yvonne Bevanda wears CHANEL
WWW.MOJEH.COM Louis Fourteen for MOJEH Follow us on Twitter @MOJEH_Magazine MOJEH Swiss Representative Office: Rue de Rive 4, 1204 Geneva, Switzerland Average qualified circulation (February-June 2018): 11,077 copies For the UAE printed by Emirates Printing Press LLC. Distribution- UAE: Al Nisr Distribution LLC. Bahrain: Jashanmal & Sons BSC (C). Oman: United Media Services LLC. Lebanon: Messageries Du Moyen-Orient The publishers regret that they cannot accept liability for error or omissions contained in this publication, however caused. The opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessary those of the publishers. Readers are advised to seek specialist advice before acting on information contained in this publication which is provided for general use and may not be appropriate for the readers particular circumstances. The ownership of trademark is acknowledged, therefore reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. All credits are subjects to change. Copyright HS MEDIA GROUP FZ LLC 2011
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THE NEW CRUISE Designers play around with their mid-season lineups, giving
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wacky prints and statement-making accessories the spotlight
A TOUR THROUGH THE HISTORY OF FASHION The rules are there are no rules when it comes to between-season style, but we owe the eccentric cruise concept to none other than Chanel
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IN MOTION Chiffon and cashmere. Tweed and ecru.
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The season calls for a wardrobe built on versatility
WHAT’S UP PUSSYCAT? Louis Vuitton’s collaboration with cat-mad stylist Grace Coddington has resulted in a playful collection of purrrfect accessories
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A FURORE AT DIOR Maria Grazia Chiuri puts on a show for cruise ‘19 with a fashion rodeo at the great stables of Chantilly
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TRANSFORMABLE TREASURES
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Multi-wearable designs sit at the very core of fine and high jewellery, with pieces among the most complicated creations ever crafted
EXTREME BEAUTY In pursuit of perfection? State-of-the-art beauty treatments are about pushing boundaries to get results
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A FINE BALANCE Rebalancing our hormones is the latest frontier in wellbeing,
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said to improve everything from premature ageing to sleep. So could you benefit from seeing a ‘hormone whisperer’?
AN UNDERSTATED OASIS FOR CONTEMPORARY ART Dubai’s new Jameel Arts Centre might not dazzle like the Louvre on the outside, but inside it’s full of hidden gems
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MISTY-EYED TREASURES Chandelier-shaped silhouettes and decadent pairings evoke the opulence of yesterday Dress, GIVENCHY | Earrings and ring, DAVID MORRIS
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EDITOR’S LETTER
MAKE IT A FRESH START The December/January issue of MOJEH is always designed to be optimistic. We carefully cherry-pick the topics that offer a balance between beautiful gifting options to punctuate the end of the year, with a clear overtone of starting afresh, in fashion, health and beauty, and most importantly for a New Year issue, outlook. For many, myself included, the end of the year is a time of selfreflection. Looking back at the things we did well, and those that we can improve on. It’s also a great time to find the energy to try something new. In this issue we had the honour of receiving expert advice on how to make a career change by some of the world’s most successful women. Beauty entrepreneur Maria Hatzistefanis of Rodial and Classpass entrepreneur Payal Kadakia, both took the time to share their personal stories of making a risk-taking
Photographed by BENOIT PEVERELLI
career change, making the move from one industry into another in Work, Work, Work, Work on page 168. Both offering MOJEH readers invaluable advice on taking the leap: “Remember that it’s never too late to reinvent yourself and try new things,” says Payal. On the topic of transformations, we take an in-depth look at the trend for jewellery that has more than one way to wear by cleverly metamorphosing from one show-stopping piece to another. From Cartier’s Yoshino necklace to Chanel’s Étoile Filante necklace, Transformable Treasures, page 124, showcases the dazzling pieces of high and fine jewellery that fashion chameleons will adore. As it’s the end of the year, the cruise ’19 collections have arrived offering us myriad ways in which to update a tired winter wardrobe. From maximalist prints to smart blazers worn with prairie skirts – see A Furore at Dior, page 50 for inspiration – and accessories are playful and tongue-in-cheek. Louis Vuitton’s collaboration with the cat-mad, flame-haired stylist Grace with fashion, friends and family. Here’s to a successful 2019. Follow me on Twitter and Instagram @Mojeh_I and write to me at editor@mojeh.com
Mojeh Izadpanah Editor in Chief
Photographed by Hana Levan
Coddington sums up the mood. This new year, let’s all have fun
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THE MOJEH EDIT
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This season’s softer blooms aren’t just beautiful, they’re also pretty powerful. These modern floral pieces demand attention.
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1. GIOIA at MODA OPERANDI | 2. DE GRISOGONO | 3. DIOR HIGH JEWELLERY | 4. AQUAZZURA | 5. CHRISTIAN DIOR VINTAGE at FARFETCH | 6. ZIMMERMANN at MODA OPERANDI | 7. ROCHAS | 8. CHRISTIE NICOLAIDES at OUNASS
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5
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Sugar Rush The cruise ’19 collections offer an array of colourful, compact arm candy that’s as pretty as it is practical Photographed by Tina Patni Styled by Stuart Robertson
Bag, LOUIS VUITTON
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Bag, SAINT LAURENT
Bag, VALENTINO
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Bag, STELLA MCCARTNEY
Bag, CHANEL
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Bag, GUCCI
Bag, FENDI
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Bag, GIVENCHY
Photography by Tina Patni. Styled by Stuart Robertson
STYLE EDIT
ARTS
CRAFTS
Dior’s iconic bag is reimagined yet again, this time by American contemporary visual artist Polly Apfelbaum, who reinterprets her colourful drawings and fabric floor paintings on the Dior Lady Art. From fabric to materials, she gives us fashion reinvention at its most daring. Dior Lady Art #3 is available exclusively from January 5 at the Dior boutique in The Dubai Mall
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THE NEW CRUISE Call it game-changing – designers have played around with their mid-season lineups, pairing maximalist prints with even wackier ones, moving blazers over from suits to top off the dreamiest of tulle skirts, and making accessories big, loud and far from obvious.
THE REPORT
LA DOUBLEJ
ETRO
VALENTINO
LOUIS VUITTON
IT’S A PRINT THING Fashion took a whirlwind trip back in time as trippy blossoms and swirling 1960s prints made a dizzying comeback. Look for silk jacquard in floral or mod motifs and pair them with this season’s dainty heels.
GUCCI
HOW TO WEAR Keywords here are clashing prints and excessive layering. Do both and you’ve nailed it.
ETRO
CHLOÉ at MATCHES FASHION
J.W. ANDERSON at NET-A-PORTER
ERDEM
34 TRAIL BLAZER The conventional suit jacket has been reimagined for cruise, migrating from the traditional stiff boardroom ensemble to layering romantically over a skirt or dress. Ladylike and versatile, still with a hint of masculine edge, but the colour palette is soft, feminine tones of off-white and beige.
SALVATORE FERRAGAMO
STELLA MCCARTNEY ERMANNO SCERVINO
DIOR
ALTUZARRA
ELLERY
GIVENCHY
BIG, BOLD AND BEAUTIFUL Shoulder-sweeping, mismatched and sometimes worn single, sculptural earrings are back – and more dramatic than before. Whether as cascading chains at Ellery, or oversized and rough-around-the-edges as seen at Givenchy, there’s a conversation piece to suit every lobe.
Words: Dina Kabbani
WISH LIST WORTHY
ANNE MANNS at NET-A-PORTER | LOREN STEWART at MY THERESA | HILLIER BARTLEY | CHARLOTTE CHESNAIS at MATCHES FASHION
RAG & BONE
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HOW TO WEAR Despite previous seasons, where designers looked to accessories for a pop of colour, now it’s all about full immersion – so wear head-to-toe.
TIBI
JOHANNA ORTIZ at MY THERESA
OSCAR DE LA RENTA
3.1 PHILLIP LIM
MELLOW YELLOW Sunshine yellow is quite contagious and for good reason; like a ray of sunshine there’s absolute warmth in the arms of a marigold hue. Follow Giamba and Johanna Ortiz and go head-to-toe in a canary bright, or experiment with different saturated shades of 3.1 PHILLIP LIM
yellow as an instant mood lifter.
GIAMBA
JOHANNA ORTIZ
PREEN
OSCAR DE LA RENTA
A WINNING PAIR Swap last season’s all-in-one Balenciaga sock boot for the more versatile socks-withheels combination. This deconstructed take on luxe athleisure has been updated with the perfect pair to wear with this season’s points being ribbed, ankle-length and emblazoned with a logo. Team with a super chic midi skirt and pull your socks up, or ruche them around the ankles for a laid-back approach.
CHLOÉ
FENDI
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GUCCI
3.1 PHILLIP LIM
PRADA
JOHANNA ORTIZ
HEAD RUSH From straw and floppy to the good old bucket, the latest hat styles getting the most attention promise not to intimidate – work them into your wardrobe easily and without fear.
WISH LIST WORTHY
SENSI STUDIO at MODA OPERANDI | PRADA at NET-A-PORTER | KRISTINA FIDELSKAYA
ALL ABOUT THE BASE Ever heard the saying, cover your bases? Well cruise fashion is doing just that: bringing back the essential wardrobe building blocks in the form of second-skin layers. We are talking sheer bodysuits and lighter-than-air turtlenecks that can and should be layered under everything in your wardrobe.
GIVENCHY
PREEN BY THORNTON BREGAZZI RAG & BONE
MIU MIU
THE COLLABORATIONS
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DELPOZO CRUISE ’19
5 MINUTES WITH... CHARLOTTE AGER
Illustrations by Charlotte Ager for Delpozo’s cruise ’19 collection The limited edition luggage from Rimowa and Off-White
The colourful work of the London-based illustrator was the inspiration for Delpozo’s cruise ’19 collection Why Delpozo? The brand reached out to me because they had been inspired by my work when creating this collection. I love Delpozo’s work – the use of colour, pattern and embroidery. So it was a pleasure to be able to respond to the cruise collection with new illustrations. The inspiration behind the new illustrations? I was responding directly to seeing the collection. I wanted the illustrations to reflect the beauty of quiet moments and to bring in reference to Kwang-ho Lee’s cacti, which I know also inspired the collection. Favourite piece? The neon yellow flower printed dress, which I illustrated on the beach scene. I love the neck detail and the shape to it. It feels light and free. What’s your take on fashion and art merging? I think it’s wonderful! It’s such a great way to combine two art forms and to push what’s been done previously. Being involved in one discipline doesn’t mean that’s all you know. Creative people often like to dip into different ideas, and collaborating with someone can have such exciting consequences for your work. Why do you think illustration is inspiring? I think it’s accessible in a different way to a lot of
RIMOWA X OFF-WHITE
people; it communicates emotion and narratives in
After the first collection sold out, Rimowa and Off-White’s limited
thoughtful ways. It’s easy to see lots of illustrators’
edition suitcases are back again with a new version of the transparent
work online and I think that inspires people. You don’t
case. Featuring the same transparent polycarbonate outer shell,
have to live somewhere with great galleries, or spend
the white and black offerings come with Off-White luggage belt,
any money, you can see what people are doing with
rubber orange wheels and a set of ‘miscellaneous’ bags for more efficient
the click of a button.
packing. At Off---white.com
Jacket, KEITH HARING X AO
KEITH HARING X AO Having worked with Jean-Michel Basquiat and Donald Robertson, Alice + Olivia is adding Keith Haring to its roster of art world collaborations. The playful capsule features Keith’s signature dancing figures and prints in patchwork collages across fun and vibrant pieces, including a leather jacket, reversible bomber and ball gown skirt. At Alice + Olivia, The Dubai Mall KEITH HARING X AO
BURBERRY X VIVIENNE WESTWOOD
Pharell wears a yellow hoodie emblazoned with the Chanel insignia
The wait is over. Having teased fans with an Instagram portrait of Riccardo Tisci, Vivienne Westwood and Andreas Kronthaler back in July, Burberry has released the much-anticipated collaboration. Featuring reimagined iconic pieces from the house’s archive, there’s everything from a mini kilt to lace-up platforms, all in the famous vintage check. Proceeds from the line will go to rainforest charity Cool Earth.
The new collection features Burberry’s famous vintage check
PHARRELL X CHANEL For spring 2019, Pharrell for Chanel will be coming to a store near you. The longtime friend of the brand has teamed up with the French maison on a ready-to-wear and accessories capsule collection that will debut on March 29 at the new Seoul flagship store, followed by select boutiques on April 4.
42 DENIM IN DEMAND The everyday utility fabric gets
THE ACCESSORIES
reimagined in a variety of washes and heel heights. From toe-peeping stilettos to patchwork boots, there’s more than one style for the indigo die-hard. Here are three denim shoes you’ll love more than your jeans.
MIU MIU LV’s freshly recast Archlight boot
LOUIS VUITTON’S NEW HYBRID It’s been a favourite among the street style set, spotted on the pavement of many a fashion week since its debut. Now the Archlight gets recast for cruise ’19 in a series of hybrid boots that are bound to fly off the shelves just as their predecessors did. Sneaker turns to boot as this reinterpretation sees the popular chunky silhouette take on distinctive volume and different
Valentino limited edition python capsule
RENÉ CAOVILLA
A FASHION BIRTHDAY What better way to celebrate The Dubai Mall’s 10-year anniversary, than with a limited edition accessory? Maison Valentino is paying tribute to the shopping haven with a beautiful emerald python bag, exclusive to the Middle East. At Valentino, The Dubai Mall
LOUIS VUITTON
Photography: Sam Rock. Styling: Marie-Amélie Sauvé for Louis Vuitton. Image of Bulgari bag: Sofia Malamute
textures, in futuristic matte gold with sock-like options for those treading in the cold.
NEW ADDRESS There’s a new kid on the block at Bloomingdale’s-Dubai. With a beautiful shop-in-shop, Malone Souliers by Roy Luwolt has finally opened its doors in Dubai, with a chic new outlet inspired by its iconic showroom in London’s Mayfair. Dedicated to meticulously handcrafted shoes, the store embodies the label’s sophisticated aesthetic with its inaugural home within the emirates.
Shoes for the soul at Bloomingdale’s-Dubai
A VINTAGE RETURN AT FERRAGAMO Paul Andrew is keeping his archival revival game strong as he brings back a 1990s print in a special edit of cruise ’19 ready-to-wear, as well as a dedicated collection for the holiday season. The classic Salvatore Ferragamo pattern is reimagined, spliced and reproportioned on patchwork scarfs and pretty chain shoulder bags that combine a fresh yet vintage feel, synonymous with the Italian house’s traditional codes.
Rediscover vintage prints with Salvatore Ferragamo
Tailor-made Bulgari
SNAKE CHARMER Nothing is more special than something made-to-order or better yet, personalised from A to Z. Enter Bulgari, the Roman jeweller, bringing a brand new service dedicated to its most sophisticated bags. Aptly named Made to Order, the beautiful range, from the Serpenti Forever to Diva’s Dream, can be exclusively customised from colour to finish to the famous snake jewels. Play around with one or several gem shades in exotic crocodile skin or brilliant nappa leather, and see your very own Bulgari bag come to life. At select Bulgari boutiques
THE RELEASES
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Backpack (above) and pouch (below), LOEWE X CHARLES RENNIE MACKINTOSH
A NEW LINE UP Inspired by the designs of Scottish architect and designer Charles Rennie Mackintosh, Loewe’s special seasonal collection explores the various facets of the Mackintosh universe. From accessories to ready-to-wear, it’ll be hard to turn down the Grid bags, evoking the Mackintosh signature lattice designs. At Loewe, The Dubai Mall
LOEWE X CHARLES RENNIE MACKINTOSH
PURIFICACIÓN GARCÍA
FOCUS ON FASHION The label might be famous for its Tangram and Origami bags, but Purificación García is serving up more than just hit accessories this season. The new winter chapter sees the Spanish brand bring us timeless separates and luxurious coats, a wonderful feat for its ready-to-wear. Purificaciongarcia.com
PETAR PETROV
KASSL
THE ROW
ONLINE LAUNCHES Get ready to fill your virtual shopping carts as favourite e-tailers launch a bevy of new labels just in time for the holiday season. The Modist teams up with Petar Petrov for a limited edition capsule collection, Ounass launches Kassl, a contemporary German brand known for stellar coats and finally, The Row debuts their inaugural menswear collection at Mr Porter, with 38 classic staples to borrow from the boys.
HILLIER BARTLEY
Bag, HILLIER BARTLEY at MATCHES FASHION
SAVILE ROW INSPIRED If you’re a fan of English tailoring, you’ll fall head-over-heels for Hillier Bartley’s vibrant cruise ’19 collection, available only from Matches Fashion. The exclusive styles found at the online store play on a mix of high and low British influences, taking men’s tailoring and making it feminine – another hit from the small and intimate label to fall in love with. Exclusively at Matchesfashion.com
UP CLOSE
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Shoes, RENÉ CAOVILLA X RAZAN ALAZZOUNI
EDOARDA CAOVILLA René Caovilla’s son and the brand’s creative director on making beautiful shoes and creating waves in the Middle East What was it like collaborating with Saudi designer Razan Alazzouni? I met Razan for the first time in March last year during the opening of our boutique in Dubai. She is a very sophisticated and elegant woman who shares my passion for art and design. We have the same vision of luxury and this was an important step for our brand, catering to the sophisticated Middle Eastern customer. Razan, being an Arab herself, really understood what the women in the region look for, and I feel the bridal capsule we have created together is something very unique and special which our customers will love. How important is it dressing celebrities for the brand? Does it have real power? I think it is very important. Many of the celebrities who usually wear our shoes are not chosen only for their beauty, but also because they are able to share the brand philosophy, based on three concepts: passion, creativity and exclusivity. Edoardo Caovilla in the René Caovilla workshop
UNITED NUDE X IRIS VAN HERPEN
dedicated to our Middle Eastern customers! At Dubai Mall
United Nude designer Rem D Koolhaas
UNITED NUDE X IRIS VAN HERPEN
REM D KOOLHAAS With a new store open at The Dubai Mall, the architect-turneddesigner talks everything United Nude Why United Nude? It stands for working together in a transparent way. At first, I wanted to call the brand NU (meaning ‘now’ in Dutch), but we couldn’t get the trademark, so we just flipped it and it became UN. How did your collaboration with the late Zaha Hadid happen? I was introduced to her in Hong Kong and I brought her a pair of shoes. I later became friends with people in her company, so when we opened our store in London, we invited them to come. That’s when one of her associates said: “Rem, when are we going to make a shoe together?” New projects? We are making a dance shoe with Lady Gaga’s choreographer, and we are talking to a few other people in the entertainment industry. There’s also a collaboration in the works on a pretty technical shoe with a car designer. It’s going to be next level. Now open at The Dubai Mall
Any big plans for 2019? We have a very exciting new collaboration
Meant to be slouchy and louche, these are the trousers that will be huge come spring
ELLERY
SALVATORE FERRAGAMO
GIORGIO ARMANI
YUZEFI
KHAITE
Having stylistically evolved past the slightly flared bottom, this season’s relaxed XXL silhouette makes a comeback for cruise ’19 – its connotations featuring a slighter, higher waistband and delicious A-line flares. You can now find extra-wide legs in flattering culottes, pretty pleats (courtesy of Giorgio Armani) and even cargo iterations. Loose fitting and unfussy, this stretched silhouette is easy to slip on and go. Nail trans-seasonal style by pairing with a slim top, for legs that look twice as long.
THE MOOD
SEE BY CHLOÉ
WIDE STRIDE
ON THE STREET
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TAN-TALISING In latte shades and the butteriest of browns, tan accessories are both timeless and timely. Promising true style mileage, these cult classics will carry you through a season, or four. Invest now and wear with everything.
Tan perfection with a classic saddle
A daring all-over tan
Neutrals on the streets of Paris
Beige perfection with J.W. Anderson A lesson in how to do maroon
Maroon details during Paris Fashion Week Timely and timeless with a tan accessory
The new way to wear the trouser suit
Sweet hues at New York Fashion Week
Emili Sindlev mixes sugary shades during Paris Fashion Week
Colour-blocking pastels
Two-tone pastels at London Fashion Week
Words: Dina Kabbani. Photography: GoRunway.com
Alla Kostromichova in fresh mint
SWEET ON SHERBET How to mix-and-match ice cream colours
From eggnog yellow to spring mint and cornflower blue, saccharine hues have us indulging our sweet sides. The best way to style them? Headto-toe, because this is how you should be doing colour-blocking this season.
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MOJEH INTERVIEW
A FURORE AT DIOR Maria Grazia Chiuri puts on a show for cruise ’19 with a fashion rodeo at the great stables of Chantilly
Photography: Ines Manai
Words by Dina Kabbani
DIOR
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Sculpted bodices accentuate waists at Dior cruise ’19
“
When I discovered the Escaramuzas, I thought they could prove a very interesting point of reference in my search for inspiring and powerful women. Maria Grazia Chiuri
A
s the world slowly changes, thanks to the currents started by the Me Too movement, there’s no designer set on introducing her feminist sensibilities quite like Maria Grazia Chiuri. Her mission has been clear right from her debut S/S17 show at Dior: to proclaim and introduce feminist values to the storied house, where she had become the first woman ever to take charge as creative director. And it was this same message that travelled 30 miles from Dior’s Paris headquarters up to the sweet town of Chantilly for Dior’s resort ’19 show. Left behind were the ‘We Should All Be Feminists’ t-shirts in exchange for something a little more equestrian, befitting the great stables of France’s favourite city of horses. This time less politically-charged, yet still true to the new strong Dior woman we have become accustomed to, Maria Grazia Chiuri paid tribute to another strong female persona, the famous female riders of Latin America. “I am fascinated by Mexico and its culture. So when I discovered the Escaramuzas – a type of sorority that brings together riders who won the right to compete in traditional Mexican rodeo competitions, just like men – I thought they could prove a very interesting point of reference in my search for inspiring and powerful women,” explains Maria Grazia. And that it was, a fashion rodeo championing real women with an eight-rider squad flown in from Mexico, all given the Dior makeover – clad in full riding skirts, folkloric-style embroideries and of course, wide-brimmed sombreros. The fashion crowd at Chantilly had to pony up (quite literally) as they received a quick lesson in equestrian history, complete with galloping choreography and the most fabulous fashion rodeo there ever was. Sidesaddled atop magnificent white horses, the grace and strength of these skilled horsewomen came to life as their illustrious cotton costumes were reinterpreted, merging both tradition and freedom – a little bit gaucho with a soupçon of equestrianism and, for good measure, a lot of delicate details that only Maria Grazia can deliver. “Full skirts, embroidery, bright colours, flowers, lace and exacting finishings, these outfits really struck me – precisely because they move away from the image of sportswear to which we’re used,” Maria Grazia explains.
Fabulous beasts come to life in Toile de Jouy prints
“This prompted me to reinterpret these elements in order to integrate them into the Dior silhouette, translating this desire for freedom into the clothing of today’s women, who have the ability to play with these dissonant influences and associations.” There was cloud-like tulle bouncing and flouncing on extravagant skirts, worn with fitted peplum jackets nipped in at the waist (sans starch), emphasised by strong high leather belts. The typical hard-wearing fabrics were guised with pretty delicate lace, peasant-style embroideries and fabulous beadings, evoking Maria Grazia’s delicately feminine flair. The effect was folkloric yet polished, sensible yet extraordinary. Toile de Jouy punctuated the collection in every form, as the famous house motif took over embroidery and prints, bringing fantastical scenes of wild animals to life with slithering serpents and wild tigers – a new breed of wonderful Dior beasts. There were dresses created in celebration of lace, varying from sweet frilly ruffles to layers in pleated flounces – because when in Chantilly, a city known for its lace, there’s no better
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“
Full skirts, embroidery, bright colours, flowers, lace – these outfits really struck me. Precisely because they move away from the sportswear to which we are used. Maria Grazia Chiuri
Sweeping ponytails come topped with sombreros
Exquisite riding gear for the modern day Dior woman
accolade than to use the local fabric. And use it she did, as Maria Grazia sent out frock after marvellous frock adorned in layers of intricately tiered lace in a compelling new take on the fabric, forgoing any connotations or associations of classicalism by modernising the looks with noir rubber boots and hard-to-miss wide-brimmed hats, courtesy of milliner Stephen Jones. It was all a clear tribute to the wonderfully austere uniform of the equally wonderful Adelita riders, their fearlessness and what can only be interpreted as a modern take on exquisite riding gear. The opulence of the traditional Escaramuzas did not stop there, bringing to life new iterations of Dior’s recent accessory resurrection – its famous Saddle bag. Maria Grazia made sure to finish off the rodeo-inspired looks with monogrammed and leather versions of the season’s it-accessory, the perfect complement to those cinched bustier dresses. “The Saddle is inspired by the curves of an actual equestrian saddle. I sought to personalise and reinterpret it in different dimensions and materials, according to the lines and the new codes represented in the collection,” noted Maria Grazia of the new bags. “My Saddle is sometimes delicate and classic, sometimes colourful and quite rock in feeling, depending on the materials used, the dimensions or the detailing that adorns it.” There were other themes woven into the collection with references to The House of the Spirits, a novel by Chilean writer Isabel Allende of the magical realism genre – a category familiar to and dearly loved by Maria. The thread of strong women she so thoughtfully had sewn into her collection were also the stars of Isabels’s narrative. The mysticism continued coming to life in the image of the Amazon, a mythical beauty from antiquity. This new and fantastical reference gave life to a slew of sporting pieces that overcome gender barriers, something the modern Dior woman knows all about. Europe, Paris to be precise, met Latin America as Stephen Jones took the Escaramuzas’ wide-brimmed hats and sent out two iterations in delicately woven straw. These wonderful chapeaus juxtaposed magnificently the tulle skirts and Bar jackets that trotted back and forth across the great stables of the Domaine de Chantilly. And it was all simply put, spectacular.
Magical realism in the form of embroidery and Chantilly lace
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A TOUR THROUGH THE HISTORY OF FASHION Words by Sophie Bew
Photography: Getty Images
MOJEH TALKING POINT
The full-scale La Pausa ship at the Chanel cruise ‘19 show
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n May of this year, guests climbed aboard Karl and has seen editors flying literally all around the world Lagerfeld’s ocean liner, a vast multi-decked and in order to catch them – to destinations like Brazil, Japan, glittering ship docked beneath the cavernous dome Dubai and Miami. And though difficult to define, cruise is of Paris’ Grand Palais. She was named, dutifully, La Pausa – also one of the most important collections of the year: an ode to the large detached villa in Roquebrune-Cap- living the longest on the shop floor, it tends to contain Martin, designed and owned by Mademoiselle Chanel more easily adaptable pieces and make up a far greater herself in the early 1930s (she named the property after proportion of customers’ wardrobes than pieces from a boat on which she’d met its future architect). And the ready-to-wear catwalks. It’s as if, in the face of this while Karl’s collections have always harked back to the somewhat perplexing split personality persona, Karl landmark moments of Coco Chanel’s history-making felt the need to take us back to the roots of cruise, career, not to mention its many talismans and motifs, this almost a century after its inception. particular nod was especially self-referential. The hulking As such, along the docks slunk a bevy of Karl’s breezy girls. model ship alluded to the birth of the very concept of the A series of slouchy, striped sailor pant looks teamed with cruise collection, which Chanel invented in 1919. a variety of covetable white jersey sweaters emerged first, In 1913, Coco Chanel opened her second boutique with a stamped red logo of interlocking Cs and on some, in Deauville, a resort town on the Normandy coast. ‘La Pausa’ written in French navy. A series of boxy wool The lavish seaside destination was bustling with visitors skirt suits followed, white tights and Mary-Janes in tow. at the beginning of the 20th century, A feast of trademark tweed and bouclé particularly the wealthy few who could ensued, cut and rearranged infinitely “Though difficult to escape the city during the first world to cater to both mother and daughter war. From the window of her suite at in a palette of pastels, denim (some define, cruise is one Hotel Normandy Deauville, Chanel ripped) and white – some in trim of the most important would study the style of both the workwear shapes, others in bombers collections of the year: and slouchy pants. Chanel codes sailors and the winter jet set. At the end of the autumn season in 1919, she were rife: gold buttons, camellias, living the longest on presented a small collection of clothes chain link details and pearls – the shop floor” – lighter and more comfortable, in berets adorned each and every unlined jersey and roomy silhouettes glossy mane. Dressier numbers that allowed for elegant movement while holidaying. followed later, spanning fluid kaftan shapes to puffed As American Vogue wrote in November that year, the pieces party dresses, each with a 1980s bent, but made for did “not differ particularly from those which she exhibited dinner and dancing en vacance. last year” but did differ “entirely from anything else shown A quick glance at this catwalk would offer an image of in Paris at the same time”. This was no doubt down to the an easy holiday vibe but up close, the story is very different. pieces’ looseness, their flow – their wearability. One striped party dress in fact consists of hundreds of In the 99 years that have passed since this between-seasons bright blue feathers pressed between layers of perspex; collection, the concept has been widely adopted and now these are layered into strips that fade away to clear plastic. goes by various names (‘cruise’, ‘resort’, ‘pre-spring’ and The soft wave-print on the finale frock is in fact a Hokusaieven ‘holiday’ – all of which refer to this same season, style crest hand-painted on to a floor-length sequined depending on where you’re writing) as well as various gown. Speckled berets are not knitted but covered with climates and activities that require garments running tweed sequins. What appears to be a zany zig-zag print the gamut, from furs to swimsuits, ski salopettes, ball on the latter more glamorous pieces is in fact a graphic gowns and beachy kaftans. In recent years the season print comprising Art Deco-style ships, compasses and has expanded to almost two months of fashion shows flags – redolent of the golden age of travel. – though far more spread out than the ready-to-wear One particular look sporting this print – a light and lively shows and with no official or designated schedule – little chiffon dress with puffed skirt and sleeves consists
Models in Chanel’s seafaring fashion for cruise ‘19
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Intricate opulence at Chanel cruise ‘19
of 39 metres of frills – 14 of black silk tulle, 14 of the shipprinted chiffon, 11 of white silk chiffon. The Lemarié ateliers spent 57 hours trimming these lengths with blue rickrack (a kind of zig-zag braiding) and sewing them together. It’s almost as if Karl indulges a perverse joy of disguising the houses’ exquisite craftwork, applying couture-style practices to looks that appear youthful and free – be it a bomber jacket or a slip dress. But in this context it’s a nod to the heyday of dressing up: a time when one would get dressed in order to be beheld in person, at arm’s length – rather than from across the web. In In Defence of Pleasure Cruising, Evelyn Waugh wrote of the people-watching enjoyed aboard ship in a piece called. “In a month’s cruise one gets to know a great deal about almost everyone. It is like a vast house party without any kind of mutual obligations. At hotels, one falls into unplumbed depths of speculation about the people at the next table and then they suddenly disappear and one is left in an abyss of unsatisfied curiosity. In a ship, one has prolonged proximity. There are 20 novels implicit in every cruise… It is extraordinary to see how people change and expand in sea air. The daughters, too, almost invariably fall in love. There is inevitably a great deal of falling in love
on board ship and inevitably, too, it has to happen more or less in the open. The boat deck during dances is a great centre of romance.” The luxury industry has always kept up to speed with travel trends. Take luggage master Louis Vuitton who, after designing the stackable flat-topped trunk that made his name in the mid-1800s, created items like the Aero Trunk – made to fit to the basket of a hot air balloon but also to float in the event of a calamity at sea – or the Auto Trunk which, often emblazoned with the car’s registration plate and strapped to the back, provided storage for early automobiles that had none. With the availability of the car, came weekend and short-haul trips – demanding needs that were fulfilled by the luxury industry faster than manufacturers could design the appropriate luggage space. Of course today’s travel industry bears little resemblance to the kind Evelyn Waugh revelled in: the leap in relatively affordable and faster global travel is reflected in that of fashion brands’ similarly inflated global access courtesy of that magical thing, social media. Testament to this escalation is the spike in resort wear collections and its adoption by countless brands in recent years. While Chanel has offered them since that
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We need more garments that make different kinds of women feel secure and well appointed for whatever their place is in the world. Vanessa Friedman
momentous year of 1919, it wasn’t until 2007 that Karl began presenting them in concurrence with grand trips: having taken over New York’s Grand Central Station for cruise 2007, he took over a Santa Monica plane hangar for cruise 2008 and The Raleigh Hotel in Miami for cruise 2009. Singapore, St Tropez, Dubai, Havana and Seoul followed. These exorbitant exhibits remained the eccentric behaviour of uber brand, Chanel. Other labels showed small presentations and made lookbooks instead. It wasn’t until cruise 2014 that a competitor held an exotic event: Raf Simons’ first at Dior. The following year he took cruise to the more prosaic streets of Brooklyn, New York – a shift that realigned the importance of the season, not simply for holiday fun but relevant to the everyday, depending on your coordinates. That same year, Louis Vuitton joined the movement, showing in Monaco – the first fashion show to take place in Palace Square; the power of cruise was at full-steam and none of the major players could afford to miss out on the pure fantasy of these exotic showcases. The result can be exhausting to follow – not least for journalists who find themselves checking in to multiple continents in a single season. But as The New York Times fashion critic Vanessa Friedman wrote in June this year, for an article aptly titled ‘How I Learned to Stop Complaining and Love the Cruise Collections’: “We need more well-designed garments that, in [the designers’] confidence, make different kinds of women feel secure and well appointed for whatever their place is in the world. If those garments are all over the place, well, so are we.” As guests climbed aboard La Pausa for the after-show party – complete with live band and oyster bar – pleasure was derived in this slippage between old and new. If anything, the cruise collections offer a metaphor for the power of fashion – the literal speed and breadth at which its fantasy and escapism can be felt instantly across the globe, epitomised by Karl Lagerfeld’s vision at Chanel.
Coco Chanel on the deck of the Flying Cloud
La Pausa is emblazoned across lifesaver-shaped bags
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FASHION IN FOCUS
CHLOÉ
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2 6 FIFTY SHADES OF KHAKI The perfect trans-seasonal wardrobe hero comes in sandy beiges, rich terracottas and the most natural of fabrics. After all, it’s a classic for good reason. 1. SUPERGA X PHILOSOPHY DI LORENZO SERAFINI | 2. TIBI | 3. ACNE STUDIOS | 4. LOEWE | 5. SONIA RYKIEL | 6. ZERO + MARIA CORNEJO | 7. PRADA at MODA OPERANDI
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VALENTINO
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2 NOUVEAU AMERICANA The stars and stripes are celebrated in quirky modern pieces – think varsity jackets with fringing, striped palazzo pants and accessories emblazoned with the famous red, white and blue. 1. STELLA JEAN at MODA OPERANDI | 2. MDS STRIPES at MODA OPERANDI | 3. SENSI STUDIO at MATCHES FASHION | 4. GUCCI at MY THERESA | 5. CHLOÉ | 6. FENDI at MATCHES FASHION | 7. MIU MIU
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Compiled by Dina Kabbani
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TRE BY NATALIE RATABESI
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HIGH GLOSS
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Rendered in lamé and the most iridescent fabrications, this new take on foil is how the fashion-forward will do metallic next season. Play with accessories if head-to-toe feels too much. 1. CALVIN KLEIN 205W39NYC at NET-A-PORTER | 2. ELLERY at MY THERESA | 3. POPPY LISSIMAN at NET-A-PORTER | 4. PROENZA SCHOULER at MODA OPERANDI | 5. MIDNIGHT 00 at MATCHES FASHION | 6. MARC JACOBS at NET-A-PORTER | 7. HILLIER BARTLEY at MATCHES FASHION
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KHAITE
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PATCHWORK POLKA The signature dotty print gets made over in colourful new iterations that will have you seeing spots (in colour) this season. Mix-andmatch for the utlimate in polka play. 1. MARY KATRANTZOU at NET-A-PORTER | 2. ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER at MATCHES FASHION | 3. LOUIS VUITTON | 4. NORMA KAMALI at MATCHES FASHION | 5. MALONE SOULIERS BY ROY LUWOLT at MY THERESA | 6. VIVETTA at MODA OPERANDI | 7. SAINT LAURENT
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IN MOTION Chiffon and cashmere. Tweed and ecru. The season calls for a wardrobe built on versatility Photographed by Benoit Peverelli Styled by Daneenart Burakasikorn
Printed chiffon top and dress, trainers in silver leather and pink tweed beret, CHANEL
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White cashmere jumper and black and white striped trousers in broadcloth, CHANEL
Blue jacket and trousers in iridescent cotton tweed, CHANEL | Shoes, model’s own
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THIS PAGE: White cotton poplin shirt, navy blue, white and silver skirt, white and black leather and metal bag, CHANEL OPPOSITE PAGE: Blue jacket and trousers in tweed and necklace in gold metal, resin and strass, CHANEL
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Ecru, black and gold cardigan and trousers in cotton and polyamide, CHANEL
Ecru tweed jacket and skirt and bracelets in gold metal, resin and strass, CHANEL
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THIS PAGE: Navy blue dress in iridescent crepe and silver quilted leather and metal Boy Chanel bag, CHANEL OPPOSITE PAGE: Striped t-shirt in pink and white cotton, blue and white striped skirt in cotton poplin, trainers in silver leather and pink tweed beret, CHANEL
Model: Yvonne Bevanda Make-up artist: Phuwadon Dechphrom (using Libre 2018 Maximalisme de Chanel) Hair stylist: Decachai Kerdphol Photography assistant: Suratham Thepphasut Styling assistants: Tanakit Tanyakorn and Jittida Kemkomnerd Local production: Ketkhanee Suyanand Brand manager: Kelly Baldwin/MOJEH Production
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WHAT’S UP PUSSYCAT? Louis Vuitton’s collaboration with cat-mad stylist Grace Coddington has resulted in a playful collection of purrrfect accessories Photographed by Tina Patni Styled by Stuart Robertson
Twist MM bag, GRACE CODDINGTON FOR LOUIS VUITTON
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Catogram scarf and bag, GRACE CODDINGTON FOR LOUIS VUITTON
Petite Boite Chapeau, GRACE CODDINGTON FOR LOUIS VUITTON
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Star Trail ankle boot, GRACE CODDINGTON FOR LOUIS VUITTON
Essential Trunk, GRACE CODDINGTON FOR LOUIS VUITTON
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Catogram Bom Dia flat mule and Catogram scarf, GRACE CODDINGTON FOR LOUIS VUITTON
Orange Cat, GRACE CODDINGTON FOR LOUIS VUITTON
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BLOCK PARTY Head-to-toe hues make for bold style statements. Look towards rich, lively tones for added oomph Photographed by Helene Sandberg Styled by Des Lewis
Blazer and trousers, ERDEM | Earrings (worn throughout), A.LU.F at JERYCO | Boots (worn throughout), MAX MARA
Dress, EDELINE LEE
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Blue shirt and trousers, JOSEPH
Dress, ROKSANDA
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Top and skirt, PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND
Jumper, CHRISTOPHER KANE | Trousers, JOSEPH at MATCHES FASHION
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Dress, PREEN BY THORNTON BREGAZZI
Jumpsuit, MARQUES’ ALMEIDA Model: Karolina Laczkowska Hair and make-up: Amy Conley
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RETRO REDUX Vintage quirks meet modern twists in a dreamy vision of old and new
Photographed by Debora Brune Styled by Nora Sayuri Nussner
Jumper, STINE GOYA | Skirt, stylist’s own | Socks, KUNERT | Shoes, N°21
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Dress, RIKA | Brooch, SAINT LAURENT | Boots, GUCCI
Shirt, PUGNAT
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Top, STINE GOYA
Top and leggings, GANNI | Shoes, MANOLO BLAHNIK
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Shirt, A.W.A.K.E | Gloves, GUCCI
Top, PUGNAT | Dress, TARA JARMON
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Dress, RIKA | Brooch, SAINT LAURENT
Shirt, ZIMMERMANN | Skirt, ALEXA CHUNG | Tights, HUDSON | Earrings, ELLERY | Shoes, N°21 Model: Alice Laush at Modelwerk Hair and make-up artist: Nadine Thoma at Nina Klein Photography assistants: Lydia Huber and Rachel Branning Videographer (live on MOJEH.com): Janik von Wilmsdorff
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Dress, GIVENCHY | Earrings and ring, DAVID MORRIS
MISTY-EYED TREASURES Chandelier-shaped silhouettes and decadent pairings evoke the opulence of yesterday
Photographed by Ina Lekiewicz Styled by Lucy Reber
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Earrings, DAVID MORRIS
Dress, MIU MIU | Shoes, CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN | Necklace and ring, GRAFF
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Dress, STELLA MCCARTNEY | Scarf and coat, BURBERRY | Earrings and ring, DE GRISOGONO
Scarf, BURBERRY | Earrings and ring, DE GRISOGONO
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Dress and earrings, CHANEL
Jacket, top and skirt, PRADA | Earrings and bracelet, TIFFANY & CO
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Dress, STELLA MCCARTNEY | Necklace and ring, TIFFANY & CO
Earrings and dress, LOUIS VUITTON
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Dress and scarf, VALENTINO | Ring, DE GRISOGONO
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Dress, CHLOE | Earrings, PIAGET
Dress, SAINT LAURENT | Earrings, PIAGET
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Shirt, earrings and ring, DIOR
Model: Florence Kosky at Models1 Hair and make-up artist: Aga Brudny Photography assistant: Sandra Baczek Brand manager: Kelly Baldwin/MOJEH Production
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THE JEWELLERY & WATCH BOOK 2019
SUBSCRIBE TO THE JEWELLERY & WATCH BOOK HAVE THE VERY BEST IN STYLE DELIVERED DIRECTLY TO YOU. Call or email us at +971 4 553 9049 and subs@mojeh.com
Photography: Tina Patni. Styling: Stuart Robertson. Words: Annie Darling
JEWELLERY EDIT
SEEING RED Traditionally-cut white diamonds still exert timeless appeal, but for those who wish to add something slightly unconventional to their jewellery collection, Daniel K’s diamond-studded choker is interspersed with blood-red rubies. This season’s ultimate party piece, it’s a striking creation that’ll elevate any outfit, and it’s one steeped in significance – among European royalty, rubies have long been thought to guarantee wealth, wisdom and success in love, and at Daniel K, each stone is personally selected by the brand’s founder. Diamond and ruby necklace, DANIEL K
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BLOOM BOOM From the abstract to the more literal, these floral-themed statement rings, which are sculpted using the highest quality stones, showcase vibrant bouquets that achieve maximal drama. 1. BOUCHERON | 2. ORTAEA | 3. MAGERIT | 4. BVLGARI
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JEWELLER TO THE STARS Irene Neuwirth is a celebrity favourite (her one-of-a-kind creations have been worn by Julianne Moore and Gwyneth Paltrow), and her latest collection, aptly named SS19, is set to be no different, having recently been launched at Moda Operandi. Expect plenty of glistening opal, as well as pink tourmaline and tanzanite stones.
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Moda Operandi launches Irene Neuwirth’s latest collection
Maria Tash opens at The Dubai Mall
Fiorever bracelet, BVLGARI
LA DOLCE VITA
NEW ARRIVAL
During a highly-anticipated launch event hosted at the Bulgari
“I’m delighted to bring my designs and expertise to Dubai,” says fine
Resort Dubai, the Italian jeweller reveals Fiorever, which reinterprets
jewellery designer and celebrity piercing expert, Maria Tash, about her
one of the house’s classic jewellery motifs: the flower. Unrivaled
new store in The Dubai Mall’s Fashion Avenue. With a cult international
craftsmanship meets the maison’s bold creativity.
following, Maria’s refined aesthetic is set to make its mark.
Photography: Tina Patni. Styling: Stuart Robertson
Tag Heuer continues to impress with its Formula 1 timepiece for women. Fashion meets function. Sporty meets slinky. This casual sports wristwatch has been made for fast-paced ladies that value style as much as punctuality. Formula 1 watch, TAG HEUER
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FASHION’S FINE JEWELLERY Fashionability and uniqueness are driving a new wave of fine jewellery, as luxury fashion brands, whose images are already tied up in the concept of exclusivity, expand their already-successful jewellery and watch suites into new territory, with higher price points. Houses like Louis Vuitton, Dolce & Gabbana and Gucci are blurring the lines between industry trends and the long-lasting appeal of fine jewellery; choosing to elevate their costume collections into lines dominated by precious metals and stones that offer the perfect blend of opulence and style. More clients than ever are purchasing online, and fashion brands have proven particularly successful in delivering seamless e-commerce experiences. As such, these collections are the next step in fine jewellery’s evolution, as a long-established industry continues to adapt to the modern world. Gucci’s range of fine jewellery includes exquisite gold and silver pieces
THE EDIT
Ouroboros bracelet set with turquoise in 18-karat gold, GUCCI
Run Away watch set with diamonds in stainless steel, FENDI
Sofia watch with mother-of-pearl dial and silk satin strap, DOLCE & GABBANA Star Blossom ring set with diamonds in 18-karat yellow gold, LOUIS VUITTON
Photography: Tina Patni. Styling: Stuart Robertson
Precious stones set within sharp geometric structures dominate Versace’s Virya fine jewellery line, which comprises necklaces, rings and earrings adorned in black onyx, vibrant amethyst and honey citrine. Virya necklace, VERSACE FINE JEWELLERY
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MOJEH JEWELLERY & WATCHES
Cartier’s Yoshino necklace set in white gold with two emerald-cut morganites totalling 55.18 carats, three cabochon-cut opals, tourmaline beads, pink sapphires and brilliantcut diamonds. The necklace has an additional chain and can be worn in three different ways
TRANSFORMABLE
TREASURES Multi-wearable designs sit at the very core of fine and high jewellery, with pieces among the most complicated creations ever crafted Words by Annie Darling
A sublime work of art, this heritage high jewellery necklace by Bulgari features a sapphire centre stone that can be transformed into a ring (left)
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asters of metamorphosis, transformable pieces that can be worn in multiple ways are making a comeback, with distinguished houses engineering state-of-the-art creations from Art Deco double clip brooches to sapphire-speckled tiaras. “Transformable pieces are special because you can create different styles to suit different occasions,” says Valérie Messika, founder of Messika and daughter of the famous diamond merchant André Messika. “I want to offer my clients the ultimate in versatility,” she explains. “For example, a few years ago I created the Glam’Azone double ring.” The piece’s removable chain allows for it to be worn in multiple ways. “Clients can have a ‘timeless’ piece of jewellery,” she furthers, “while having fun, by opting for different types of wear.” “We have made modular jewels since the 1930s,” says Bulgari’s creative director, Lucia Silvestri. “The main challenge is manufacturing and maintaining a high level of quality, while trying to make a jewel versatile and wearable. Sometimes a jewel can be easy to transform – even into five pieces – but it must be convenient for the wearer to do this easily.” One of the brand’s most noteworthy jewels, a vintage sapphire and diamond high jewellery necklace, separates into both a ring and bracelet. For Valérie, her maison’s Eternal Soul necklace is a standout piece. “It’s the most famous and exceptional piece from our new high jewellery collection, Once Upon a Time. With this necklace, I wanted to pay tribute to the world of high fashion.” The sensual choker features numerous emeraldcut diamonds – a magnificent five-carat whopper, which is encircled by an entourage of micro-set stones. “Inspired by trends from the world’s most exclusive catwalks, the piece can be worn in three different ways,” she explains. The history of transformable pieces can be traced to the 18th and 19th centuries, when jewellers perfected the en tremblant technique, which utilised complex engineering that enabled diamonds to be set on tiny concealed springs, that shivered with even the slightest move of its wearer. Prior to its development, motion in jewellery was largely unappreciated, in part because gem-cutting wasn’t yet able to set fluid-fitting stones that captured sufficient sparkle. As such, the craftsmanship involved in creating jewels that
incorporate movement eventually fell out of fashion – although exceptional creations like Van Cleef & Arpels’ transformable zipper necklace, and Bulgari’s Serpenti timepiece, have long been celebrated. Interpretations of the former have been worn by celebrities including Cate Blanchett, Margot Robbie and Anne Hathaway, having first been inspired by the Duchess of Windsor in 1938, after she requested the iconic design from Renée Puissant, the maison’s artistic director and daughter of its founder, Alfred Van Cleef. “The Zip necklace in yellow gold with round diamonds transforms into a bracelet, and is one of our avant-garde transformable creations,” says Alessandro Maffi, managing director of Van Cleef & Arpels Middle East and India. “This piece harmoniously combines technical ingenuity and design, giving it a playful yet functional character which perfectly matches the spirit of the maison. To ensure the perfect fall of the piece around the neck and on the wrist, extreme care has been lavished on these pieces to ensure exceptional flexibility and the fluidity of feminine movement.” “I like my pieces to be comfortable, modern and sophisticated,” adds Valérie, agreeing that wearability is essential to transformable jewels’ long-lasting success. “When I collaborated with Gigi Hadid for our Move Addiction collection, we designed a ball allowing a wearer to easily alter the length of its chain, resulting in multiple ways of wearing the same necklace.” Traditionally bold centrepiece gemstones and static structures have dominated necks, ears and wrists worldwide. However, a number of jewellers are
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Taking inspiration from Gabrielle Chanel’s original jewellery designs from 1932, the maison’s Étoile Filante necklace boasts a star-shaped jewel that can be detached and worn as a brooch
Van Cleef & Arpels’ Le Secret high jewellery collection is an exquisite collection of transformable jewels with hidden messages and features
now taking inspiration from the archives, having embraced the jaw-dropping effect achieved by moving masterpieces, and often taking designs one step further – it would seem the considerable effort required is worthwhile. Dubai-based designer Yara Tlass is behind the fine jewellery brand Usfuur, which means ‘bird’ in Arabic. “Transformable jewellery is appealing because it’s always interesting to be able to interact with a piece and play around with it,” she explains. “The wearer can try it on in different ways to represent her different moods.” Transformable pieces are particularly prevalent in Usfuur’s latest collection, which Yara reveals is inspired by the sea. “The ocean’s colours and movement are reflected in our Seashell earrings, for which we use motherof-pearl set in 18-karat white gold, as well as turquoise stones and 18-karat yellow gold for our Blue Bird earrings.” The challenge in creating transformable pieces, says Yara, lies in presenting jewellery that you would never guess is transformable. Designers often have to use sophisticated techniques to hide a piece’s mechanisms. “It’s challenging because you want the jewellery to be perfectly functional and easy to wear, but also sophisticated and appealing – we always try to satisfy both purposes when designing transformable pieces,” she explains. Le Secret collection by Van Cleef & Arpels is renowned for mastering this
illusion, most notably in its extraordinary Oiseau sur la Branche necklace, which can be worn three different ways. The central part of this elegant pendant contains a carved nightingale that’s revealed only by the sliding of a beautiful diamond door. Several other jewellers have also presented creations that showcase similar ingenuity and know-how, including Boucheron, Cartier, Dior and Graff, with many releasing pieces that can be broken down into their individual components; to be worn either together or separately. Le Lys de Chaumet celebrates the different facets of feminine beauty with floral motifs and royal emblems that pay tribute to the maison’s storied history as a jeweller to the kings and queens of France. Its Passion Incarnat tiara is an exceptionally versatile piece that can be manipulated into a brooch or a necklace, while the set’s earrings can be modified into smaller versions of themselves. Similarly, the jeweller’s La Nature de Chaumet suite’s Étoiles Boréales white gold ring features a 12.62-carat cabochon-cut Australian black opal, which is set alongside vivid Paraiba tourmalines and yellow and violet sapphires. The sensuous curves of its matching necklace, set in white and yellow gold, is transformable, featuring nine oval-cut black opals, as well as one pear-shaped Paraiba tourmaline weighing 0.81 carats and another weighing 1.8 carats. Dubai-based boutique jewellery house Vik Jethwani specialises in bespoke fine jewellery. Natasha Jethwani is one half of the husband-and-wife duo that founded the brand. “Without a doubt, our adjustable necklaces and chokers are some of the most famous pieces from our label,” she reveals. “Made with a unique ball clasp, these are our most versatile, and worn on any part of the neck, allowing the wearer to play
with them and stack differently to suit their mood or outfit.” From a Marco Bicego diamond necklace that can be turned into a bracelet to Brumani earrings with detachable gemstone drops, it would seem that a large part of transformable jewellery’s appeal is its ability to remain on trend, despite the industry’s increasingly fast-paced environment and client demands. Take Boucheron’s Cigale des Neiges necklace, for instance, set in white gold with chalcedony and paved with diamonds, which features a detachable butterfly, and Chanel’s Étoile Filante white gold pendant with brilliant-cut diamonds. From the Comète collection, it is a sophisticated creation that celebrates Coco Chanel’s passion for movement, boasting numerous baguette-cut diamonds that are held together by a large diamond star that can be removed and worn as a brooch. Mademoiselle Chanel launched her first jewellery line in 1932, with several pieces that could be transformed, including a necklace that could be dismantled into three bracelets and a brooch. “The long-lasting appeal with transformable pieces is that they become timeless because of their versatility. You may wear a necklace higher up on your neck now, because chokers are trending,” suggests Natasha, “but when that trend starts to fade, you can adjust the length and wear the same piece on your collarbone or even lower later on.” Chopard’s Garden of Kalahari necklace, for instance, comprises two beautiful pendants – featuring heart and pear-shaped diamonds – and is wearable in four different variations. The ability to alter a bespoke piece to accommodate the wearer’s whims, says Natasha, is also important, because it increases the overall enjoyment she gets from the jewellery. Innovation is also key to a design’s success. “Each season we try to do something a little different. For our latest collection, called FW18, we created a new line of adjustable necklaces using uncut diamonds,” explains Natasha. “We use 18-karat gold and diamonds, in addition to semi-precious stones in all our pieces.” When Cartier unveiled its Magicien line, the maison elevated high jewellery’s already-exceptional standard for transformable jewellery, with technical prowess that hadn’t been seen previously. A striking example of the house’s awe-inspiring craftsmanship can be admired in the Incantation necklace. A dark, seductive piece of high jewellery, it boasts numerous geometric components, each pavé set with diamonds. When inverted, a 22.84-carat cushion-cut Ceylon sapphire, which can also be worn as a ring, is affixed to create a bewitching pendant. Without doubt, transformable jewels have opened up a whole new world of options for fine and high jewellery, and no matter how you choose to wear them, there’s no denying that these hardworking structures add a head-turning versatility to even the most adventurous jewel connoisseur’s diamonddrenched repertoire. Considering the trends longstanding history, we should be used to such tricks, but thanks to exceptional craftsmanship and daring designs, multi-role creations continue to be the most complicated and collectible. Imaginative constructs mottled with the finest gemstones reveal hidden motifs and showcase the finest example of artisanship – and long may they reign.
The iconic Zip motif is revamped by Van Cleef & Arpels for its antique Sunflower necklace (top), which can be modified into a bracelet, set in yellow gold with diamonds, turquoise, lapis lazuli and white cultured pearls (bottom)
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FANTASY GARDEN Turquoise lakes luminate with splashes of chartreuse, and multi-hued florals are blinded by the all-encompassing force of amethyst
Photographed by Greg Adamski Styled by Kelly Baldwin
My Dior Cuff, DIOR FINE JEWELLERY | La D de Dior Precieuse watch, DIOR HIGH JEWELLERY
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Diorette rings, DIOR FINE JEWELLERY
Rose Dior Pré Catelan earrings, DIOR FINE JEWELLERY
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Soie Dior earrings, DIOR HIGH JEWELLERY
Dior Grand Bal Jardins Imaginaires watch, DIOR TIMEPIECES
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Dior Grand Bal Plissé Soleil watch, DIOR TIMEPIECES | Rose Dior Bagatelle ring (left), DIOR HIGH JEWELLERY | Gourmande Libellule ring (right), DIOR FINE JEWELLERY
Rose Dior Bagatelle ring (left), DIOR HIGH JEWELLERY | Miss Dior ring (right), DIOR FINE JEWELLERY Model: Klaudia at MMG Models Hair and make-up artist: Bianca Hartkopf Nails: NStyle Beauty Lounge
Photography: Gorunway.com
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MAX MARA S/S19
BEAUTY EDIT
PLAITS PLEASE! They took over the S/S19 runways at Max Mara and Versace, worn sleek, low and with super shine – long bold braids are back with a vengeance
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orget the humble braid, this season’s iterations are sculpted, utterly immaculate and anything but modest. Our favourite? Eugene Souleiman’s dramatic airborne plaits at Jil Sander’s A/W18 show. Stiff and slicked back, they hovered high, defying gravity, almost as if laughing in its face. During the S/S19 shows, a swooshing plait followed suit, reigning supreme. At Alexander McQueen, hair stylist Guido Palau served up not one, but two high-shine waist-grazing braids, an edgy take on the typical pigtail. Meanwhile at Erdem, Anthony Turner’s modern Victoriana hair gave us centre partings and braids that started from the nape of the neck. And finally, who could forget Kaia Gerber, who took to the Max Mara runway with a chunky plait that meant business.
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ALL ABOUT DENSITY Tension is the key to maintaining a strong braid. Thickness is also important in the aesthetic of your braid, so if your hair is quite fine, using hair extensions or hair pieces is a great way to bulk out the braid.
A CLEAN PALETTE In order to style your braid, make sure that your parting has definition and is neat to start. You can then tame fly-aways with the use of a control cream.
GROOMING IS KEY
JILL SANDER A/W18
If your hair is quite dull, your braids can often look flat and boring. A light paste, such as the medium hold pliable paste from Davines, is great at helping maintain a neat look. Then a shine spray gives an added finishing touch. We recommend the shimmering mist from Davines.
FINAL TOUCHES To achieve a polished look, make sure your colour is looking fresh and your regrowth maintained. Finally, if you want to accessorise your braid, silver hoops are a really cool finishing touch!
Hair styling tips provided by Fiona Baxendale, stylist at Trevor Sorbie, The Dubai Mall, +971 4 362 7500
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MOJEH BEAUTY
Her, BURBERRY
Tudor Rose, BURBERRY
BURBERRY’S BRITANNIA Master perfumer Francis Kurkdjian has managed to capture the very BURBERRY
essence of two of Britain’s most iconic symbols – London and the English Rose – in sweet and floral fragrances that are a worthy tribute.
THE PARTY EDIT They say the eyes are the windows to the soul, and there’s no better time to dress them up than the present, as luminous and metallic powders promise to have you hovering over your eyeshadow palette this party season.
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4 1. 5 Couleurs in Midnight Wish – Limited Edition, DIOR | 2. Kenzo World Eyeshadow Palette, KENZOKI | 3. Palette of Pops in Starlight – Limited Edition, CHARLOTTE TILBURY | 4. Ombre Première Poudre in Electrum Lamé, CHANEL
Lily-Rose Depp wears Chanel’s Collection Libre 2018 holiday make-up look
5 MINUTES WITH...
NICOLAS DEGENNES Givenchy’s creative director of make-up on the secrets of a good primer and the stars of his latest collection Upgrade your beauty skills at the Toni Malt Make-up Academy
Prepping and priming are essentials to today’s beauty routines. What’s so special about the Givenchy Prisme Primer? The Prisme’s
BOOK YOUR MAKE-UP MASTERCLASS Brush up on your make-up abilities and take your beauty skills to the next level in a five-day intensive make-up masterclass by leading editorial make-up artist, Toni Malt. Starting from December 9 at the school in Dubai’s Al Quoz , you can learn from the very best in the industry through theory sessions, make-up demonstrations and a one-day photoshoot, where you can put what you’ve learnt to the test. Book at Tonimaltacademy.com
texture is completely different to other primers, so you can really trust them. They are all about luminosity – something that I am always talking about. You see, when you put on a loose powder, you want it to be matte and luminous. Our primers are creamy, they’ll turn matte, yet give you all that light you need. Everyone is talking about the Teint Couture Radiant Drop. Why? Just because it shines. The drops are texture-less, they’ll turn matte but with shine. You can apply it as a base if you wish, or for evenings, mix it with your primer and turn it into something else. It’s an easy product to handle and work in your own way. That’s what I love to offer women – the possibility to use something during the daytime in one way, and then in the evening in another way. So we should use the primer together with the drops? Yes. It’s all about layering – one is correcting, the other is colouring. It helps to avoid any thickness. What is the ‘little black dress’ of the collection? The highlighters. You sweep them across your face, and in two seconds you have the shine you need. It’ll do the job without anything else, something you can trust in. It’s a product that’ll give you the right texture to correct the right thing, to get the right luminosity you need. All without heaviness. What’s the common thread between all three? In my collections I love to make things a little bit easier for women. To create products where you don’t have to think too much, like a game show somehow, where you can just have fun and play.
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1. Teint Couture Radiant Drop in Radiant Bronze | 2. Teint Couture Shimmer Powder in Shimmery Pink | 3. Prisme Primer in Jaune, all GIVENCHY
1 Beauty goodies await
SELF GIFT THIS SEASON
Words: Dina Kabbani
See yourself through the entire festive season with Net-a-Porter’s super-luxe take on the advent calendar. Featuring gifts from Oribe to Philip Kingsley and Marc Jacobs, the online e-tailer will have you forgoing the chocolate guilt for 25 days’ worth of travel size make-up, hair and skincare beauty goodies. Available at Net-a-porter.com
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ON THE WISH LIST
Orchidée Impériale Black, GUERLAIN
SEASON TREATS Give your skin the gift of hydration with Orchidée Impériale Black, Guerlain’s skincare masterpiece. And don’t stop there, Charlotte Tilbury’s new advent calendar will have you rediscovering the multiverse of make-up magic with a new beauty treat every day, up until the new year.
Beauty Universe, CHARLOTTE TILBURY
BADGELEY MISCHKA
Unmask naturally radiant skin with Foreo at Sephora
5 THINGS TO KNOW ... Foreo’s regional expert, Ryan Saddik, gives us the lowdown on the revolutionary new UFO Smart Mask device What is the Foreo UFO? The UFO (Ur Future Obsession) is a brand new innovation offering professional-level 360 smart mask treatment anywhere and on-the-go, turning a 20-minute treatment into a 90-second treat. How does it work? It begins with 30 seconds of thermotherapy and red LED light to prep the skin. It opens the pores, infusing the mask’s ingredients into the deepest layers
CLEVER COLOUR MAKEOVER
of skin. It then cools to lift and firm the skin, integrating T-Sonic pulsations into the treatment to heighten the absorption of
It’s the time of year when parties and the multiple blow-dries that go with
the mask’s essence. After, it switches to lower frequency
them can leave hair looking worn and lacklustre, so it may feel counterproductive
pulsations to add a radiant boost.
to go to a salon. Not so, says Declan McQueenie, part of the Pastels artistic team
What products can you use? You can only use Foreo masks,
and principal of education at the Ritz-Carlton Dubai JBR location, who stresses
which are made from soft microfibre, infused with plant and
the importance of having intensive hair treatments when visiting your hairdresser.
fruit extracts, botanical oils and natural flower water.
He uses L’Oréal Professionnel Smartbond, which can be applied both in the
When can you see results? Right from the first use, you’ll
salon and at home. Declan says: “I love it because it works in unison with every
notice a clearer and healthier complexion in 90 seconds.
L’Oréal colour and can be used before and after a service. It also allows me to
How often do you need to use it? The UFO skincare routines
push my blondes further and helps keep colour illuminated.” Pastels Salon
are for twice-a-day use, morning and evening. However,
Ritz-Carlton, +971 4 399 5016
depending on your skin, you can use it more or less frequently.
Words: Dina Kabbani. Natascha Hawke. Photography: Andreas Kuehn / Getty Images
EXTREME
B E AU T Y In pursuit of perfection? State-of-the-art beauty treatments are about pushing boundaries to get results. Futuristic technology and minimally-invasive procedures have taken over in a bid to achieve deeper, longer-lasting results, here are some new and improved treatments to try to get great skin in time for 2019
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Mesotherapy does wonders for tired, dull skin
Photography: Svetikd / Getty Images
PICO GENESIS
TEETH WHITENING
There’s nothing that Rebecca Treston at Euromed Clinic Dubai doesn’t know about cutting-edge aesthetic treatments. Her latest skin-saving technique is the Pico Genesis laser, which she personally loves. She tells MOJEH what makes it so special.
With fillers and injectable moisturisers at the heart of the non-invasive beauty conversation, the topic of teeth whitening doesn’t come up too often, but it’s an important one for a bright, ageless smile. These days brightening is fast, easy and without risks to the teeth. “People come in looking for a fresh clean smile,” says Julien Tanneau, director of operations and smile tender of Dubai’s latest teeth-whitening clinic, The Smile Bar. “Our revolutionary gel formula from Sweden will not only do the trick, but it’s 100 per cent safe.” The process is simple. Teeth are evaluated using a shade guide to match the current colour of your teeth, then a quick cleaning takes place, followed by 20 minutes in a comfortable Egg Chair, sitting under an LED light as the whitening gel is applied. Teeth are visibly brighter and two to nine shades whiter, with results lasting up to six months depending on the person’s lifestyle. “We encourage clients to refrain from tea, coffee and tobacco for the next three days to avoid any discolouration,” notes Julien. For a healthy-looking, clean, white smile it’s so worth it. The Smile Bar, +971 4 339 1216
What is Pico Genesis? It’s a game-changing skin revitalisation laser treatment that gives you a more radiant, brighter and uniform complexion in just 20 minutes. In addition to general rejuvenation, the multiple wavelengths also enable customised treatments to target a wide variety of concerns such as superficial pigmentation, sun spots, melasma, acne scarring and much more. I love it because the technology means amazing results can be achieved with much less downtime than traditional lasers and with a far lower risk of post inflammatory hyperpigmentation. What results have you had? When I came back from my vacation everyone was saying how tired I looked. One day, I had enough and I made room in my schedule to have the Pico Genesis. The difference in the comments about my skin was like night and day. People were complimenting me, telling me how fabulous I looked, saying they wanted skin like mine. I’ve had the same results with my patients – I often get messages from them telling me what a difference the treatment has made to their skin, how much better they feel, and how much they love the compliments they are getting. The feedback has been overwhelming! How does it work? I have the Pico Genesis Enlighten 3 which combines the benefits of three highly effective wavelengths in ultra-short pulses to cause an intense, non-thermal, photo mechanical disruption and remodelling of the upper dermis. It also destroys the pigment, leaving your skin clearer and giving you a more even, uniform complexion. Basically, we are able to deliver the fastest, most powerful pulse to the skin in a very safe and effective way. Best of all, because it is not a thermal energy, it cannot burn you or create hyperpigmentation. What skin conditions can it treat? Originally developed for tattoo removal (and can still be used for this), picosecond lasers are now being used for a variety of conditions including skin toning, reducing hyperpigmentation, and building collagen. It’s also used to treat brown spots, sun damage, age spots and malasma. Are results immediate? You may see results after one to two sessions. Those suffering from dermal melasma can take slightly longer to see dramatic results and so more treatments may be needed to really see an improvement. How many sessions must you have? With some high-intensity laser treatments as many as 10 to 15 sessions are required to see results. With Pico, you may need just one to two treatments, or if you have severe pigmentation you may need up to five to see results. They should be spaced two weeks apart. Are there any negative side effects? There may be some slight flaking or swelling with the procedure, but in most cases there is no downtime. Rebecca Treston, Euromed Clinic Dubai, +971 4 394 5422
PRP Certainly not new, but always being improved, as the name suggests this facial has everything to do with blood. First brought to the mainstream by Kim Kardashian, but now a common appearance on the treatment menus of most aesthetic clinics, the Vampire Facial or PRP (platelet-rich plasma) looks to the patient’s own blood cells for its active ingredients that are injected back into the face. Originally developed for joint damage and wound healing, the plasmarich platelets contain growth factors and proteins of which the main purpose is to restore and heal damaged skin through activation and rejuvenation of cells. After blood is taken and platelet-rich plasma extracted, it is applied to the skin and pushed deep into the epidermis via microneedling which signals the skin to heal itself by creating more collagen. Dr Timm Wolter at The Nova Clinic in Dubai, who has over 20 years of experience as a plastic surgeon and regularly does PRP, says the risks are minimal which is what makes it such a good choice: “As it’s your own blood, PRP is very safe and there is little risk of allergic reactions. But, because a needle is used to inject, the risks include minimal pain, pinprick bleeding, redness and bruising.” Improvement in skin texture can be noticed early on, and collagen production around 10 to 15 weeks afterwards. Three to four treatments over six weeks is recommended and it will last for about 12 to 18 months. PRP can be injected into crow’s feet, cheeks, around the mouth and nose for volumising and improving skin tone, tightness and texture, and under the eyes to help with dark circles. The Nova Clinic, +971 4 384 5666
144 EYEBROW/EYELASH TRANSPLANTS Originally created to assist those suffering from extreme burn trauma where hair has been extinguished, eyelash and eyebrow transplants have increased in popularity as beauty trends gravitate to longer lashes, fuller arches and bushier brows. Known as FUE (Follicular Unit Extraction), the minimally-invasive procedure takes two to three hours under local anaesthesia, as hair follicles are grafted from the back of the scalp and then implanted through extremely small incisions in the same direction and angle as lashes or brows. At Dubai Cosmetic Surgery, each transplant procedure is unique and tailor-made according to the client’s face shape, hair thickness, and arch and brow shape. As hair begins to slowly regenerate, regrowth results can be seen four to five months after surgery, with full development somewhere between eight and12 months. FUE is considered a more efficient and permanent solution than procedures like brow tattooing or lash extensions, giving a natural finish. Dubai Cosmetic Surgery, +971 4 348 5575
MESOTHERAPY
BRANDON MAXWELL A/W18
VELASHAPE A non-invasive treatment using what resembles a large vacuum cleaner, the Velashape II is designed to help you achieve the slim, toned curves you’ve always wanted, cellulite free and smooth. It works by using suction to clamp on to the chosen area (hips, thighs, buttocks, stomach and arms are the most popular) which pulls the fat layer up into a roller and blasts it with infrared light and heat – up to 42 degrees Celsius – that break down the fat cells that cause orange peel skin. It’s not without discomfort. As the roller moves along the legs, areas prone to cellulite are a little painful as it sucks up the skin, but the constant movement means the pain doesn’t last for long. Each session lasts for around an hour and it’s recommended to have at least six sessions, while maintaining regular exercise and a healthy diet to really see results. With no side effects and no downtime, it’s worth a try if you’re looking to tone up and get rid of cellulite prior to slipping into this season’s Balmain party dress. NStyle Beauty Lounge, Mall of the Emirates, +971 4 450 5137
If you’re looking to address dehydration and fine lines without Botox or a facelift, then Mesotherapy could be the glow-giving answer. Considered a minimallyinvasive procedure, the popular technique consists of a series of small injections of a nutrient cocktail containing Hyaluronic acid – one of the most talkedabout ingredients on the beauty market – into the mesoderm layer of the skin. “Mesotherapy solutions are great for anyone who feels like they look tired,” explains Nathanaël Aknine founder of the newly opened Maison Lutétia clinic in Dubai’s Festival City. “It can stimulate the fibroblast cells in the skin and this will help produce more collagen and combat any signs of ageing,” he continues. To enhance the overall results, the treatment begins with a Radiance Peel, a gentle and light peel that helps to remove any superficial pigments and boosts elasticity. The Mesotherapy cocktail is then delivered into the skin via tiny needles, a painless process that takes only 20 minutes. It is combined with Medical LED light therapy to further improve blood flow circulation. There is minimal downtime – a little redness may appear and skin will feel taught – but it should settle within 24 hours. The result? It takes a couple of days before that much-talked about Mesotherapy ‘glow’ shows up, but when it does it reveals skin that looks as if you’ve had a really good sleep. Maison Lutétia, + 971 4 706 4000
STEM CELL REGENERATION The New York-based surgeon Dr Steven Victor is bringing the only DHA-approved Stem Cell Treatment to Dubai, he tells MOJEH why it’s better than any cosmetic filler. What are stem cells? A stem cell is an undifferentiated cell in your body that has the capabilities to become another type of cell such as heart muscle, cartilage etc... Think of it as a repair cell that replaces old, damaged or missing cells in tissue. Explain the process of extracting stem cells? After a consultation, the patient will come to the hospital for fat harvesting. This can be done awake or under light sedation in the operating room. The area where the fat harvesting will take place is numbed and the fat cells extracted. It is taken to the lab, and the stem cells are removed and tested for cell count, viability and sterility. The cells are returned to me (the doctor) and then intravenously put back into the patient’s blood stream, and then through local injections. The treatment takes four to six hours. What makes stem cell regeneration different? Other fillers just fill and do nothing for the skin. Stem cells are anti-inflammatory, without any side effects. They grow back new blood vessels and increase the flow of blood. They stop cell death and grow back new tissues. This helps the quality of the skin in terms of texture, scarring and tightening.
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Other fillers just fill and do nothing for the skin. Stem cells are anti-inflammatory without any side effects. Dr Steven Victor What can go wrong? Nothing can go wrong since they are your own cells. In beauty treatments we are 100 per cent successful. Is there downtime? 90 per cent of patients go back to their normal lives the next day. There is a little soreness where the fat was harvested, and sometimes there is a little bruising. How long does it take to see results? The external results are seen immediately but get better over time, while feeling younger can take up to 90 days. The results last for five to 10 years. Would you consider this an investment? It is about the cost of a facelift, but you get better skin quality in addition to increased volume and improvement in sagging skin, so it’s a very wise investment. By appointment only with Dr Steven Victor at Emirates Hospital Dubai. For enquiries email dubai@regenmedicalpc.com or Whatsapp +1 917 402 9551
CHROMAT A/W18
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MOJEH BEAUTY
AND CHILL...
DEEP CLEANSING FACIAL
CAFFEINE FIX
It’s nothing new that a humid climate and polluted city leads to
For a perfect post party season body blitz, try SensAsia’s 150-minute
open pores and dull skin, so for a fresh start, look towards Linda
The Skinny Latte. You’ll start with a caffeine-powered coffee scrub
Meredith’s Deep Cleansing Facial at the Versace Palazzo Spa.
to detoxify, energise and stimulate circulation, followed by a mask
Be prepared for an extraction and peel (neither particularly pleasant,
and intense massage to smooth stubborn fat deposits. Then it’s on to
but both results driven), followed by a relaxing mask and facial massage.
an Esse probiotic and organic facial – using the power of probiotics
Luminous skin is revealed instantly, but even better is the smooth
and botanicals to hydrate, strengthen and restore the barrier function
complexion and tight pores which surface around three days afterwards.
of your skin – to kick start your new year rejuvenation regime and
We’d expect nothing less from Meredith’s Haute Couture line.
leave feeling completely renewed. Dhs699, SensAsia Urban Spa
Dhs850, The Spa – Palazzo Versace Dubai, +971 4 556 8750
locations, +971 4 417 9820
Words: Dina Kabbani. Kelly Baldwin. Natascha Hawke. Photography: Pelle Lannefors
With a new year beginning, there’s no better time to press pause, check out and reboot. Here are nine spa treatments designed to soothe the soul, recharge the spirit and get you ready to face life
CINNAMON & SPICE DETOX
VITAMIN C FACIAL
The post-party calm makes for an ideal opportunity to detoxify
Using Natura Bissé’s luxurious spa products, the Vitamin C Facial at
and Habtoor Palace’s Silk Spa will have you kick start that cleanse.
The Spa at Address Montgomerie is designed to refresh, nourish and
Begin the body healing process with a warm cup of cinnamon-
hydrate dull-looking skin. Using products infused with real vitamin
infused tea, then draw out toxins and impurities with a reinvigorating
C, the facial follows the usual four steps of cleanse, tone, exfoliate
salt scrub, which will leave your skin feeling smooth and revitalised
and moisturise, but with the added benefit of a 20-minute peel-off
ready for step three, an energising 90-minute bespoke massage
mask. Vitamin C is known to reduce the effects pollution, stress and
with frankincense and myrrh essential oils. Dhs690, Silk Spa at
sun exposure has on the skin, leaving it radiant and blemish-free.
Habtoor Palace, +971 4 435 5500
Dhs285, The Spa at Address Montgomerie, +971 4 363 1274
ARABIAN RITUAL
HOLISTIC CRYSTAL THERAPY
For those looking to be cleansed, scrubbed and replenished, Chi, The
In search of mental clarity? There’s nothing quite like a mindful body
Spa is offering an Arabian Ritual treatment that does all three. Kick
exfoliation to bring alignment to your seven main chakras. Deeply
off with a 30-minute lemon and coffee full body scrub, before you
meditative, Talise Ottoman Spa’s holistic treatment was created
are wrapped up in rose and Rhassoul clay, sourced straight from the
to bring harmony and Zen by using essential oil blends and healing
Atlas Mountains in Morocco. An aromatherapy massage continues
crystals inspired by the ancient principles of Ayurveda. Begin your
the pampering experience, strengthening the body’s vital energy
journey to ultimate relaxation with an energy-recalibrating scrub, and
leaving you as blissed out as the Arabian sun. Dhs830, Chi, The Spa
end it with a fluid combination of massage. Dhs999, Talise Ottoman
at Shangri-La Dubai, +971 4 405 2441
Spa at Jumeirah Zabeel Saray, +971 4 453 0000
OPEN INVITATION
Revive a stressed out soul in time for the new year
For a little well-deserved time off, Armani/Spa offers the ultimate in luxury self-care. Put yourself first this holiday season with the ultimate spa pass, a 100-minute treatment of your choice. Whip your skin into better shape with a custom facial or wrap, scrub your way to smoother skin or splurge on a restorative massage, it’s totally up to you. Don’t forget to take home a little goodie courtesy of the spa in the form of one of its cult beauty products. Dhs860, Armani/Spa at Armani Hotel, +971 4 888 3282
HOLISTIC CEREMONY Muds and oils only go so far when it comes to dissolve muscular stress and tension. Enter the Holistic Ceremony treatment, Amara Spa’s restorative escape. Begin your journey to true wellbeing with smooth volcanic stones that are warmed and massaged along the body to balance the central nervous system. This is followed by the ancient therapy of ear candling to help relieve sinusitis and headaches. A pressure-point massage to follow will ensure you reach your happy state. Dhs1,000, Amara Spa, Park Hyatt Dubai, +971 4 602 1660
HAMMAM EXPERIENCE Restorative therapy for the body starts at The Spa at Address Boulevard with the Hammam experience, a high-end version of the traditional bathing ritual. Skin is prepped and exfoliated with Turkish castile soap and a Kessa glove to remove dead skin. Then a gentle Rhassoul hair wash, top-to-toe body mask and blissful foot massage follow. To complete the hammam experience, a plunge in the coldwater outdoor pool is the finishing step to a magnificent Arabian journey. Dhs613, The Spa at Address Boulevard, +971 4 561 8126
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MOJEH BEAUTY
A FINE BALANCE Rebalancing our hormones is the latest frontier in wellbeing, said to improve everything from premature ageing to sleep. So could you benefit from seeing a ‘hormone whisperer’?
Photography: Getty Images
Words by Kate Wills
I
recommend a hormone test for all women, of any age,” says Although testosterone is traditionally associated with men, it’s nutritional therapist Kay Ali, of London-based You Need actually a key hormone for women, too. “Women actually have A Nutritional Therapist. According to Kay, whose clients call three times as much testosterone as we do oestrogen,” says Kay. her ‘the hormone whisperer’, it’s “crazy” that women only tend to “It’s essential to our sex drive, mood and motivation. Too little is think about our hormones when we’re trying to get pregnant or associated with low muscle tone and osteoporosis, and yet not going through the menopause. “Hormone levels are crucial for enough women are aware of it.” bone health, weight, beauty, age and mental health throughout New research surrounding progesterone – sometimes called ‘the pregnancy hormone’ because of its high levels in the body during every stage of life.” “A urine test not only looks at the obvious hormones like this time – has linked it to brain health. “Progesterone is found in testosterone, progesterone and oestrogen, it also looks at how your brain cells at levels 20 times higher than what circulates in our body is using them, which gives us a much clearer understanding blood,” says Kay. “It’s a key component of the myelin sheath, the of what’s going on,” she explains. “A 21-year-old client came to protective layer that insulates each nerve fibre and ensures quick me with hair loss and acne. She tested positive in a blood test communication from neuron to neuron. It also activates GABA for high levels of testosterone. We tested again with a dry urine receptors in the brain, making us feel happy and calm.” test – which shows us how hormones are metabolised – and it At Beyond Nutrition in Dubai hormone testing comes as standard showed that her elevated testosterone was going down a specific for new patients. “Hormonal imbalances are becoming increasingly pathway associated with male pattern baldness and acne, hence common,” says Katharina Elbracht, clinical director at Beyond her symptoms. Similarly, I recently had a 32-year-old lawyer who Nutrition. “Women are especially affected by hormonal disorders was feeling unusually tired all the time. She and prevalence of Polycystic Ovarian Syndrome went to her doctor and had a blood test and (PCOS) is rapidly increasing incidence in “I realised hormones her hormone levels looked fine, but when we UAE, with about 60 per cent of Gulf women did a urine test, it turned out her body wasn’t suffering from its condition. More people dictate what your metabolising testosterone efficiently.” are realising that many health issues are the body does with food, Where once ‘being hormonal’ was something result of, or caused by hormone imbalances, and that realisation for women to feel embarrassed about or such as increased weight, fatigue, high blood try to mitigate, now a new conversation changed everything ” pressure, insulin resistance, acne, anxiety and is emerging in the wellness space which many more. Because medical interventions Dr. Sara Gottfried pushes hormonal health in a new direction. sometimes fail to address hormonal imbalances Rather than just being associated with and only treat the symptoms without getting to PMS, hormones are essential to understanding our moods, sleep, the root cause of the problem, more people are willing to take a energy levels and even ageing. “Certain lines and wrinkles are holistic, natural approach to balancing their hormones.” associated with oestrogen dominance or progesterone deficiency,” Although celebrities such as Kim Cattrall and Angelina Jolie explains Kay, who conducts Skype consultations around the world. have started talking about the changes that come with the “Jowls sagging can be due to low oestrogen, and forehead wrinkles menopause, hormone imbalances can happen at any stage of life. can be a sign of a testosterone imbalance. Even your brows thinning “While hormone levels naturally start to decline as you age, any out can be a sign of hypothyroidism, where your thyroid, which number of factors can contribute to irregularities,” says hormone regulates your hormones, isn’t working properly.” specialist Dr. Sohere Roked from Omniya Clinic in Knightsbridge, Though the word ‘hormone’ was first used in 1905, derived from the London. “Hormonal contraception, such as ‘the pill’, as well as Greek meaning ‘to arouse or excite’, the science of endocrinology stress, pollution and lack of sleep can all be an issue. Busy lives didn’t develop until the 1930s. In the last few years, hormone can stimulate too much cortisol, which can end up switching off the health has become a hot topic. There are now endless articles hypothalamus, the part of the brain which stimulates the pituitary about balancing hormones on Gwyneth Paltrow’s website Goop. gland into secreting hormones.” There’s YouTuber Hannah Witton with her first-person vlogs, So what can you do if you think your hormone levels might be out The Hormone Diaries. The Library chain of gyms in London of kilter? Diet is a good place to start. “Hormones are made from focuses its workouts on optimal hormonal function. There are cholesterol,” explains Kay. “So eating good healthy fats, such as even hormone tracking apps, such as Moody Month, which enable avocados, olive oil and oily fish is essential. Zinc is also implicated women to recognise patterns in their hormones. in testosterone production and with so many people pursuing plant-
150 based diets now, it can be difficult to get enough zinc.” Good sources of zinc include pumpkin and sunflower seeds, eggs and pulses. Similarly, a vitamin D deficiency can cause low oestrogen in women, which means a low sex drive and low serotonin – the happy hormone. On the subject of diet, a hormonal imbalance might also be the reason you can’t lose that stubborn five pounds. That’s what happened to Dr. Sara Gottfried, author of The Hormone Cure. “My defining moment came in my mid-thirties,” she explains. “I had an extra 25 pounds of baby weight I couldn’t shake and my old diet tricks no longer worked.” A blood test confirmed that her cortisol and oestrogen levels were high. “That’s why I was suffering with my weight, low energy and generally feeling bad,” she says. “It took me 21 days to turn the ship around, but when I did, I felt like myself again – happy, free and curious about the world instead of angry and resentful. I realised hormones dictate what your body does with food and that realisation changed everything.” Dr. Sara’s Hormone Reset Diet offers a spring clean of the endocrine system. Meat and alcohol, sugar, fruit, caffeine, grain, dairy and toxins are omitted for initial three-day bursts in order to reset the seven hormones of metabolism. “When you can’t lose weight, despite trying the usual sound methods, your metabolism is broken, and 99 per cent of broken metabolism is related to hormonal misfires,” she explains. “Your hormones govern nearly all aspects of fat loss, from where you store fat (and how much) to your cravings, appetite, gut bacteria and even your addictive patterns with food. If you struggle to get and stay lean, I promise that your hormones are to blame.” Sara, whose patients are mostly female, says she can now spot hormonal imbalances just by looking at someone. “Thinning hair, including eyelashes and the outer third of the eyebrows, signal a slow thyroid,” she explains. “Sunken tear troughs can indicate waning oestrogen in the second half of perimenopause and menopause. Fat around the middle can indicate hormonal imbalance, specifically leptin resistance, high cortisol and insulin resistance.” Understanding our hormones, and how they change throughout our cycle, can also be used to recalibrate our lives, and how we make decisions. Claire Baker is an Australian life coach who specialises in using hormonal profiling to find a ‘flow’ in life and work. “Just before my period, I’d be exhausted, whereas two weeks later my energy and libido would be sky-high,” she explains. “I noticed I was more positive and resilient at times, and then more self-critical at others. I started tracking how I felt, what my body was doing, everything.” And Claire realised her clients showed the same signs. “At sessions, clients would be in completely different moods for no particular reason. It was a recurring pattern, so I asked them to start tracking too,” she says. “Women understand they’re on a rhythm, but don’t know how to work with it. We can use how we’re feeling at different times in our
cycle to live and work in an optimum way; with our bodies rather than against them. I sync my life, where possible, to my cycle.” Claire uses a ‘seasons’ analogy to explain the stages of a typical cycle. ‘Winter’ (days one to six) is the period, when we feel like hibernating. Then we move into ‘spring’ (days seven to 13), when hormones are steadily on the rise and most women feel more energised and positive. ‘Summer’ (days 14 to 21) is mid-cycle, at ovulation, and we feel more sociable and our libidos are at their highest. Then, we enter ‘autumn’ (days 22 to 28), the week before menstruation where, generally, women feel moodier, but perhaps more grounded and creative too. Then the ‘year’, or cycle, begins again. According to Claire, once we pay attention to our hormones, good things start happening. Being conscious of our hormonal cycles can help us bring our A-games to life on a day-to-day, month-to-month basis. And what could be more empowering than that?
FIND YOUR BALANCE KAY ALI, NUTRITIONAL THERAPIST Kay Ali is a UK registered nutritional therapist, senior associate member of The Royal Society of Medicine and co-founder of You Need A Nutritional Therapist. Sparked by feelings of burnout in her twenties, Kay retrained at The Institute for Optimum Nutrition, committed herself to the study of nutritional science for health and wellbeing, and now advises clients all over the world. Youneedanutritionaltherapist.com
SKIN III, DUBAI Skin III’s SK Woman test includes a thyroid panel II test (T3 free, T4 free and TSH), progesterone test and estradiol (E2) test. It is a suggested option for women who are particularly struggling with infertility, menstrual difficulties or symptoms of menopause. The SK Woman test can also identify the early onset of breast, cervical, endometrial and ovarian cancers. Skin111.com
DUBAI HERBAL & TREATMENT CENTRE Combining both conventional and proven alternative medicine in its therapies for 15 years, the Dubai Herbal & Treatment centre conducts comprehensive lab testing and an in-depth questionnaire, before creating a personalised treatment plan to balance hormones for optimal health and wellness. Dubaihtc.com
BEYOND NUTRITION, DUBAI Beyond Nutrition measures hormone production and cortisol levels via saliva samples taken at different times of the day. Some samples are taken independently, with instructions provided. Beyond-nutrition.ae
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here is no denying that the beauty industry is big business, in 2017 the global spend on cosmetics according to Mordor Intelligence was $532.43 billion and is predicted to reach $805.61 billion by 2023. That’s a lot of beauty products. But while we are happy to spend away on anti-ageing face creams and beautifying potions every month because somebody tells us we should, experts argue we should be looking deeper into ourselves before relying on a magic cream. Dr. Hoda Makkawi, an integrative holistic and anti-ageing medicine specialist at Euromed Clinic Dubai, believes that the secret to maintaining optimum health and great skin starts with understanding your genes. The Skin DNA Genetic Test she offers her clients is designed to identify how your genes affect the ageing process by analysing how they impact elasticity, glycation, pigmentation, free radical damage and inflammation of the skin. “Your genes can be active in a good or bad way. It is what you feed the genes that will allow them to be expressed or not,” Dr. Hoda explains. “For example, if you have a gene that says you are deficient in collagen, and you can’t make good collagen, then you are not eating the right food.” By analysing the DNA taken from a simple saliva swab, the test feeds back genetic strengths and weaknesses, indicating what issues your skin is most susceptible to, and suggests the lifestyle and diet changes you personally need to make in order to see optimum results. After the DNA sample is taken, two weeks later a 10-page document comes back with the genetic diagnosis. “The test will come back with all the food you need and should eat according to your skin. It will also give you a breakdown per category: vitamin C deficiency will give you the vitamin C food to add to your diet; for collagen deficiency, the collagen food, and so on,” explains Dr. Hoda. For example, if skin is prone to Glycation, the test suggests Hyaluronic Acid, ceramides and blueberry extract be among the topical ingredients you need to combat it, as well as cumin and vitamin B1 among the supplements you should be taking. It also suggests professional aesthetic treatments, in the case of Glycation, Collagen Induction Therapy, and a low sugar diet should be followed to assist in glowing skin. It is not just ageing that the test can indicate, but also risk of diseases like cancer, which at a time when approximately 38.4 per cent of men and women will be diagnosed with at some time in their lifetimes, is surely a no-brainer. When asked if this is the future of skincare, Dr. Hoda says confidently: “Yes, I think so. If everyone is eating the right food for their genes and taking the right supplements so the right genes are being expressed, then you will see tremendous changes, and also prevent disease, which is the most important.” Dr. Hoda Makkawi is the consultant family medicine, integrative holistic medicine and anti-ageing medicine specialist at Euromed Clinic Dubai. The SkinDNA Test starts from Dhs3,500, +971 4 394 5422; Euromedclinicdubai.com
THE BEAUTY OF DNA
State-of-the-art genetic testing to fight against disease and the ageing process is fast becoming the norm, but is it worth it?
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BEAUTY IN FOCUS
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TRAVEL EDIT
THE DESTINATION Words: Natascha Hawke
Immerse yourself in a world of relaxation at a luxury spa destination and enter 2019 ready for anything
Pictured: Euphoria Retreat, Sparta, Greece
156 THE RITZ-CARLTON, LANGKAWI Voted the World’s Best New Resort Spa 2018 at the annual World Spa Awards, check into The Ritz-Carlton Langkawi for some rest and relaxation designed to take you back to nature. Overwater walkways and treatment rooms with floor-to-ceiling windows offer views across the Andaman Sea and into the lush 10 million-year-old rainforest, creating the perfect environment in which to enjoy traditional Malaysian spa therapies. Ritzcarlton.com
Below: Amilla Fushi’s Wellness Tree House by Bodyism
AMILLA FUSHI, MALDIVES Nowhere does secluded luxury like the Maldives. With its tropical climate and breathtaking natural beauty, this is the ultimate place to hit refresh. For something other than the usual beachfront bungalow, Amilla Fushi’s magical Wellness Tree Houses by Bodyism, which are described as “one-bedroom spa nests”, offer secluded havens with a 360-approach to reaching optimum health through clean eating, yoga and spa therapy. Equipped with private treatment suites, enjoy wellness experiences as instructed by a personal Bodyism performance specialist and spa therapies from the award-winning Javvu Spa. Spa heaven incarnate. Amilla.mv
Six Senses Kaplankaya re-opens in April 2019
SIX SENSES KAPLANKAYA The internationally-recognised Six Senses Spa is at the heart of this hotel, located on the storied Aegean coastline in Turkey. With magical sea views and an integrated approach to wellness, the spa facilities include a Watsu pool, salt grotto, hydrotherapy pool, Finnish sauna and a treatment menu that will make your dreams of rejuvenation come true. Sixsenses.com
On board the Jiva Spa Boat
EUPHORIA RETREAT, GREECE Greece’s latest wellness destination opened in July 2018 and has since become one of the most talked about in Europe. Its ultimate goal is to “offer a state of euphoria” through tailor-made programs combining exercise and diet, with spiritual and mental guidance. Located in the picturesque Peloponnese close to the UNESCO town of Mystras, the retreat is ideally situated for complete escape. Euphoriaretreat.com
The outdoor pool at Euphoria
TAJ LAKE PALACE, INDIA Set sail from the serene surrounds of the Taj Lake Palace in Udaipur on the hotel’s unique Jiva Spa Boat. Offering guests signature treatments from Taj’s renowned Jiva Spa menu, trips across Lake Pichola range from two- to four-hours while custom massages, body scrubs and wraps take place on board. Surrounded by open water and the majestic backdrop of Udaipur, sip cocktails in post-massage bliss as the sun sets. Tajhotels.com
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THERMES MARINS MONTE-CARLO If you holiday in Monte Carlo, then this 6,600 metres squared, dedicated health and fitness hub should be top of your relaxation and rejuvenation plans. Located in the heart of Monaco with calming views across the Med, the centre is the epitome of state-ofthe-art wellness in luxury surroundings. With a team of experts on hand to guide you through the extensive treatment list, from slimming to preventative health testing, the Thermes Marins Monte-Carlo is a one-stop shop for a total body reboot. Montecarlosbm.com Views across the Med await at Thermes Marins Monte-Carlo Monaco
Find peace at Clinique La Prairie
CLINIQUE LA PRAIRIE The world-renowned wellness and medical clinic in Switzerland has introduced its Advanced Beauty Program, which fuses antiageing technology with a roster of beauty and wellness treatments. Scheduled over a four- or five-night stay, the programme aims to bless those who undertake it with a more youthful appearance before they leave, through treatments like mesotherapy, Hollywood peels ad lymphatic drainage, as well as plastic surgery, beauty and dental consultations. Laprairie.ch Detox at the Chenot Palace Health Wellness Hotel
CHENOT PALACE HEALTH WELLNESS HOTEL, AZERBAIJAN Founded as a detox, regeneration and rejuvenation destination specifically to support the wellness pioneer Henri Chenot’s Chenot Method, the hotel comprises a 6,000 metres squared medical centre, spa facilities and 72 guest rooms. Multiple treatment programmes are on offer, but for a long weekend power detox the three-day Active Detox Henri Chenot Programme aims to rebalance the body by treating oxidative stress and metabolic intoxication, sending you home feeling lighter, healthier and with lots more energy. Chenotpalacegabala.com
AND THE REST
CHIC TRAVEL ESSENTIALS Up your travel game with these stylish accessories
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Luxury skiing personified at Cheval Blanc Courchevel
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CHEVAL BLANC COURCHEVEL Set in the world’s largest ski domain, Les Trois Vallées, Cheval Blanc Courchevel opens its doors for the ski season on December 14, welcoming guests back to enjoy the boutique luxury it is known for. With only 36 rooms and a three-star restaurant, Le 1947, the ski-in ski-out chalet has everything the discerning ski junkie requires. For this new season the hotel is introducing the playful sport of skijoring, where guests can explore the landscape on skis, while being towed behind a horse. Chevalblanc.com
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The lobby inside The Abu Dhabi Edition
THE ABU DHABI EDITION Following a spate of new openings this year, including Shanghai, Bodrum and Barcelona,
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Ian Schrager ventures into the Middle East for the first time with The Abu Dhabi Edition. Located waterside on the Al Bateen peninsula in the Abu Dhabi Marina, 20 minutes from the Louvre, the hotel offers 198 rooms, three signature restaurants by Michelinstarred chef Tom Aikens, a spa and three-storey nightclub. Editionhotel.com/abu-dhabi
1. Vanity case, GLOBE-TROTTER at NET-A-PORTER | 2. Cashmere travel set, MORGAN LANE at MATCHES FASHION | 3. Horizon soft luggage, MARC NEWSON X LOUIS VUITTON | 4. Luggage tag, BOTTEGA VENETA | 5. Travel pouch, GILES X ASPINAL
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CULTURE EDIT
The Big Book of Chic at Maison Assouline
Ibiza Bohemia at Maison Assouline
BOOK SHOPPING The publishers of some of the world’s most beautiful books, Assouline, has opened a new concept store at The Dubai Mall’s Fashion Avenue. Maison Assouline is a dedicated store lined with floor-toceiling bookshelves showcasing the luxury brand’s roster of books on fashion, design, art and travel, with a dedicated section displaying the oversized collectible tomes that come in exclusive boxes, including the showstopping Iran Modern: The Empress of Art. There will be monthly pop-ups, and at the centre of the store is the vintage-inspired Swans Bar, complete with a menu inspired by classic book titles. Iran Modern: The Empress of Art at Maison Assouline
BEING BALENCIAGA A collaborative project between Balenciaga’s artistic director Demna Gvasalia and fashion photographers Johnny Dufort and Pierre-Ange Carlotti, Balenciaga: Winter 18 (Rizzoli) is a behind-the-scenes look at the makings of the catwalk show, starting with castings at the house’s headquarters in Paris and ending with a post-show photoshoot. “With this show in particular, even backstage looked like a story,” says Demna. “I realised every show I do from now on for Balenciaga is cinematographic, and each of them I’d like to accompany with some memorabilia – something that actually puts you into that show, and the process behind it.” Inside Balenciaga: Winter 18 is out in February
We Should All Be Feminists by Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie
FEMINISM TRANSLATED The book inspired by Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie’s inspirational 2013 TEDx talk of the same name, as well as inspiring an entire collection from Dior designer Maria Grazia Chiuri, We Should All Be Feminists, and the other two books by the author, has been translated into Arabic by Lamis bin Hafez, published by Rewayat. A must-read and thoughtful gift for the women in your life.
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DRIFT BEACH DUBAI For lovers of a beach party, Drift at One & Only, Royal Mirage is hosting a three-course dinner starting at 7.30pm, followed by an after-party from 11pm until 3am. Driftbeachdubai.com
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SKY LOUNGE, MEYDAN For awesome views looking back at the city of Dubai, Meydan’s Sky Lounge Rooftop Party will go off from 10.30pm until the small hours of 3am with live DJ and fireworks. Themeydanhotel.com
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ALL’ONDA RESTAURANT, DUBAI Set to open in December, be the first to celebrate new year at chef Chris Jaeckle’s New York-born eatery, fusing Asian and Italian cuisines with views over the city skyline. Kempinksi.com
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ZIGHY BAY, OMAN Ring in the new year dancing under the stars to live music beside Zighy Bay’s saltwater pool, after an extensive buffet dinner. The ultimate choice for the boho-luxe beach babe. Sixsenses.com/zighybay
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MINISTRY OF SOUND, YAS HOTEL If music is your thing then Skylite’s Ministry of Sound NYE Party at Yas Hotel Abu Dhabi is the place to be, with international DJ Seb Fontaine making a special
7 OF THE BEST...
appearance. Yashotelexperiences.com
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NEOS, ADDRESS DOWNTOWN
Words: Natascha Hawke. Photography: Getty Images
Set on level 63, with panoramic views over the Burj Khalifa, Neos is a front row seat to all the action. Indulge in world-class food to live music and the city’s number one fireworks display. Myfestivedubai.com
EMIRATES PALACE, ABU DHABI
Enter into the new year as you mean to go on – dancing and dining the night away at one of the region’s most exclusive venues
An oldy but a goody, Emirates Palace always puts on a good show. Ring in the new year with a seven-course dinner, followed by a spectacular firework display on the beach. Kempinski.com/abudhabi/emiratespalace
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Keep your Givenchy leathers in top condition
SCREEN TIME Roxy Cinemas has opened its second boutique cinema on the beachfront at La Mer. Offering luxury seating in semi-reclining chairs and an extensive menu of dishes that are delivered to your seat, there is no other way to see a movie. Theroxycinemas.com
LOOK AFTER YOUR LEATHER 800 Leather has opened a premium boutique at The Dubai Mall dedicated to all kinds of leather care, including repair, cleaning, restoration, upholstery and re-upholstery. So you can keep shoes, bags and this season’s leather trousers in top condition. 800leathersolutions.com Book tickets to watch Bohemian Rhapsody at Roxy La Mer
Marie France Van Damme is now open at The Dubai Mall
Yves Saint Laurent pictured with actress Catherine Deneuve
STYLE NEWS As the cruise collections come into stores across the city, so does an entire boutique dedicated to the classic cruise aesthetic. Hong Kong-based designer Marie France Van Damme has opened a store at The Dubai Mall’s Fashion Avenue, offering her brand of seafaring fashion. Think glittering slips that
CHRISTIE’S YSL SALE
look as elegant at an evening
On January 24, during Haute Couture Fashion
soiree as a poolside lunch, a
Week, Catherine Deneuve’s wardrobe, designed
nautical colour palette and plenty
by the great Yves Saint Laurent, will be auctioned by
of billowing kaftans – that have
Christie’s at 9 Avenue Matignon, 75008 Paris, and
made her a go-to for holiday style.
will continue online until January 30. Christies.com
Zeta at Address Downtown
The Vintage Hat Box by Forever Rose
SAY IT WITH FLOWERS If vintage florals is a trend that resonates with you, then extend the aesthetic to your home with a Forever Rose bouquet from the Hotel 1960 Collection. The three vintage-inspired styles, the Vintage Trunk, Vintage Hat Box and Luxury Carry Me, all finished in faux ostrich leather evoke the glamour of times gone by. At Forever Rose Roberto’s in DIFC
It’s polo season at Meliá Desert Palm
Inside Barbary’s urban interior
BARBARY DELI + COCKTAIL CLUB
THREE AL FRESCO The cooler weather in the region equals long lunches and evenings spent eating al fresco, until the early hours. Get involved by booking a table at
From the restaurateur Joey Ghazal, who brought you Maine, Barbary
the newly-opened Zeta at the refurbished Address Downtown, which offers
has been just as much of a success. With the terrace now open, the
a spectacular view of the Burj Khalifa, while dishing up a Californian-Asian
intriguing crowd, music from a host of DJs and an unexpected menu
fusion of cuisine. Back on the scene after a summer renovation is the city’s
of French charcuterie and cheeses, prime cuts and aptly-named
favourite Italian Roberto’s in DIFC, returning with some new additions to its
drinks, set in surroundings inspired by 1930s Paris, makes it a go-to for
menu, and welcome in the polo season with the Vintage Friday Brunch at
Friday brunch, after-work meet-ups or simply just to eat. Barbary.ae
Rare at Meliá Desert Palm.
164 NEW ALBUM: LAYLA KARDAN Iranian-Belgian-Australian singer Layla Kardan’s star is on the rise. Her latest album Saved, released on November 30, is an exploration of the social conventions of Middle Eastern women. What inspired Saved? Love. Heartbreak. The oppression of Middle Eastern women and the expectation to conform – and breaking away from that. I’m going up against people who expected me to be a certain type of woman, who say that singing is reserved for ‘bad women’. The album is about being saved, being reborn... coming into my skin to be my most authentic self. Illuminating the cracks, both the title of the album and cover art depicts the ‘gold joinery’ inspired by the traditional Japanese form, Kintsugi – the art of repairing broken ceramics with gold. Saved is an invitation into the inner world of Layla Kardan, dedicated to women and their perfect imperfections. What’s your favourite track on the album? All the Beauty. It’s introspective and dark, but also very beautiful and uplifting at the same time. It has a very heavy bass line with a very feminine melody and light delivery. I feel like it’s a true reflection of my personality. It’s a song about shifting your perspective of the world to see it for all the beauty it has to offer, and to make your place in it where you feel content and comfortable. Do you have a favorite lyric? “Never without, I look within,” which is about dropping validations and the need for material things to seek the answers and find fulfillment from within yourself. How has your heritage influenced you? My lyrics are in English, my melodies pop and jazzy, my production has subtle Middle Eastern undertones with use of warped setar and daf sounds (traditional Persian instruments), the rhythms of certain songs are typical of the sounds of the Gulf region. I am proud of my heritage and love it to be represented in any way possible. Layla Kardan, photographed by Lamya Gargash
Luxury furnishings as choreographed by Issarch’s chief architect Antonio Minutella
WANT A HAUTE HOME? Looking for a luxury interior update? Put Issarch Atelier on speed dial. Working with established luxury brands such as Longhi, Boca do Lobo, Koket and Brabbu, as well as designers like Fendi and Versace, welcome in a whole new look for your home in 2019. +971 4 388 2770
Jameel Arts Centre opened at Dubai Creek in November
AN UNDERSTATED OASIS FOR CONTEMPORARY ART Dubai’s new Jameel Arts Centre might not dazzle like the Louvre on the outside, but inside it’s full of hidden gems Words by Aimee Dawson
Photography: Mohamed Somji, courtesy of Art Jameel
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t’s hard to believe that more than a year has passed since the opening of the long-awaited Louvre Abu Dhabi. But on the anniversary of its inauguration on November 11, 2018 a very different art space opened up in the UAE. Located on the Jaddaf Waterfront at Dubai Creek, the non-profit Jameel Arts Centre aims to promote contemporary art from the Middle East and beyond, some of which will be drawn from the several hundred-strong Art Jameel Collection that includes works by artists such as Kader Attia, Monir Shahroudy Farmanfarmaian and Ahmed Mater. Unlike its Louvre predecessor, with its glitzy dome, the Jameel Arts Centre looks very unassuming upon first glance. The building, designed by UK-based firm Serie Architects, is made up of a series of white, aluminium-clad boxes that are inspired by the Gulf ’s traditional Sha’abi architecture. But the simplicity of the building is sleek and carefully considered, with small surprising details punctuating the spaces, from the hidden commission spaces to the beautiful, sculptural desert gardens – designed by the landscape architect
Anouk Vogel – that fill the connecting courtyards. Inside, there is a research centre and library, an events space and an outdoor sculpture area, as well as 1,000 metres squared of galleries. The centre in Dubai is the first dedicated space for Art Jameel, which is the cultural philanthropic arm of the Saudi business conglomerate, Abdul Latif Jameel. Led by Antonia Carver, the former director of the Art Dubai fair, Art Jameel’s other projects include the Jameel House of Traditional Arts and Jeddah Sculpture Museum in Saudi Arabia, plus a number of international partnerships, such as with the Delfina Foundation and Victoria and Albert Museum in London and the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. Antonia says the decision to open a centre in Dubai “reflects the strong role the UAE art scene has been playing across the larger region, and the country’s unique position as a global meeting place.” But it won’t be Art Jameel’s only space for long – Hayy: Creative Hub in Jeddah is scheduled to open in 2020, and Antonia says the multidisciplinary development will include both an art centre and arthouse cinema.
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Green House: Interior yet Exterior, Manmade yet Natural (2018) by Shaikha Al Mazrou
Contrary Life: A Botanical Light Garden Devoted to Trees (2018) by Alia Farid and Aseel AlYaqoub
GARDENS IN THE DESERT There are all kinds of unexpected spaces for artistic creations to sprout up in the centre’s surrounding grounds. Out the back, looking across the Creek, there is a small Garden Commission area – a space for artists to cultivate and experiment, which will change every year. The inaugural installation is by the Emirati artist Shaikha Al Mazrou. Her garden is in fact not a garden at all – Green House: Interior yet Exterior, Manmade yet Natural (2018) is a semi-translucent, segmented green structure that stands in stark contrast to the surrounding centre’s cladding. The piece explores common themes in Shaikha’s work, such as the contrasts of inside and outside space, the manmade and the natural. On top of the building another curious garden has taken root. A garish, neon, light-up mass of foliage that spreads across the terrace – Contrary Life: A Botanical Light Garden Devoted to Trees (2018), which is on display until September 2019 – is another unique interpretation of what a ‘garden’ means in the arid deserts of the Gulf. The Kuwaitbased artists Alia Farid and Aseel AlYaqoub were inspired by the artificial trees and plants that are used to line the highways and boulevards of some Middle Eastern nations as a cheery, long-living alternative to real foliage. The pair travelled to China to find the place to produce the perfect plastic oasis, that they say, ironically, is already weathering under the Emirati sun. The installation both metaphorically and literally lights up at night, creating a nocturnal pseudo-natural garden hovering high above the Creek.
Crude, curated by Murtaza Vali
CRUDE IN NAME BUT NOT IN NATURE “Oil is magical and insidious,” reads the opening text to the Jameel Arts Centre’s first group exhibition, printed on an iridescent polyethylene banner – the kind of plastic only made available through the petrochemical industry. The show, which includes 17 artists and is curated by Murtaza Vali, looks at the Middle East’s complex relationship with oil, as a driver of both development and political upheaval in the region. “Contemporary art exhibitions can be both reflective of society and an invitation to reflect upon society, and this role is perhaps particularly urgent in the UAE and region where we’re based,” says Antonia. The show is spread over five galleries on the first floor and major works include Latif Al Ani’s 1960s photographs, which documented the UAE’s first taste of oil wealth, Monira Al Qadiri’s dark, pearlescent sculptures that allude to the machinery used in refineries and Hassan Sharif ’s giant pile of plastic flip-flops, which points to the endless plastic objects produced from oil.
FEMALE ARTISTS GO SOLO
Departure (2018) by Chiharu Shiota
Artist’s Rooms: Maha Malluh
The programme includes four solo Artist’s Rooms by four female artists: Maha Malluh, Lala Rukh, Chiharu Shiota and Mounira Al Solh, all of whom have a presence in the Art Jameel Collection. “They’re pioneering artists whose works engage with curatorial themes that we’ve been exploring as a team, including exchange, confluence and connectivity, in multifarious ways,” says Antonia. “There’s a real richness of media across the four rooms, ranging from major new commissions to sculpture, works on paper and video,” she adds. There has been a lot of focus in recent months on the improving rights of women in Saudi Arabia, and it seems female power is extending to the Jameel Arts Centre. “The shows draw on personal experiences from Saudi, from the Arab world, from Pakistan, and from beyond the region,” Antonia explains. “The four artists happen to be women, and we’re proud of this. It is also perhaps representative of this region too, where women play a major role as curators, gallerists and patrons as well as artists.”
The centre’s boxy design is inspired by traditional Sha’abi architecture
WHAT’S ON • Artist’s Rooms: Maha Malluh, Lala Rukh and Mounira Al Solh, until February 9 • Artist’s Rooms: Chiharu Shiota, until May 11 • Crude: until March 30 • Future Artist’s Rooms will feature Hemali Bhuta, Seher Shah, Randhir Singh and Farah Al Qasimi • A new sound installation by Hassan Khan will be revealed in spring 2019
Artist’s Rooms: Mounira Al Solh
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MOJEH WOMEN
WORK Are you following your dreams? We meet the women who have stepped away from the careers they fell into, to pursue their passion project
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Photography: Borna Ahadi, Getty Images
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emales of today are a force to be reckoned with. Highly educated and supremely stylish, they rise to the top of their game and look good while doing so. But no matter how much we might love our job or rapidly tick off career goals, most of us harbour a niggling concern. These are the moments of self-questioning that crop up while we are on the morning commute or getting ready to return back to the office after a vacation. The times when you wonder how your life might have played out if you’d pursued your interest in human rights law or ignored your family and studied fashion instead of finance. Who doesn’t wonder, if not panic, about the doors that they closed? When 33-year-old Russian entrepreneur Miroslava Duma, best known for her work in publishing, announced she would sell her stake in fashion and lifestyle portal Buro 24/7 this year, many were surprised. After all, she’d spent the last seven years establishing her site as an internationallyrecognised name, launching it in 11 markets, from Mongolia to Mexico and the Middle East. On her decision to step out, she issued a statement saying that she had decided to focus on other projects, most notably one that looks set to rethink the industry that shaped her career. Future Tech Lab (FTL) is a multinational think tank, investment company and incubator, that is bridging together fashion and science to create a sustainable future. Working with small businesses like Modern Meadow and VitroLabs, it is pioneering the growth of artificial leather while, together with Leonardo Dicaprio, backing Diamond Foundry to create lab-grown jewellery-grade diamonds that could transform the market for mined diamonds. Rising to the top of the corporate ladder was once deemed the pinnacle of success, but now women want more, and are armed with the self-belief and skillset to instigate change. High profile women are also increasingly rethinking their roles. Gwyneth Paltrow established herself as a reference point in the world of wellness with Goop, a project which began in 2008 as a simple newsletter designed to collate travel recommendations and recipes, while Jessica Alba’s organic baby care brand, The Honest Company – which was inspired by a hopeless search for high quality, natural baby products – is today valued at Dhs6.2 billion. Model Karlie Kloss acted on her love for maths and science with Kode
Words by Laura Beaney
With Klossy – a coding camp for girls that she established in 2015, to empower the next generation of women and become leaders in the male-dominated tech field. Central to these success stories is the pursuit of personal passion. It’s the thing that makes the fear and stress associated with escaping your current profession feel worthwhile, and the ‘why’ that you come back to when you’re wondering if it’s all worth it. Comptoir 102 founder, Parisian Emma Sawko, 48, moved to Dubai from New York, leaving behind a career in advertising she hadn’t really planned, to open a café. Her business idea came from a desire to bring the things she missed from New York and Paris to her new location, and it’s the belief that Comptoir 102 represents positive change that has maintained Emma’s passion, six years after its launch. “My greatest piece of advice to women that want to start again is, whatever your project, try to make sure it’s something that does good, whether for the people you love, the planet, or those in need,” she says. Another changemaker is Lebanese-Egyptian-American, Hanan Sayed Worrell, whose career shift transformed the cultural landscape of Abu Dhabi. “My background in engineering allowed me to contribute to several impactful projects in the region,” she explains. “But after 20-something years in the for-profit sector, it felt natural to channel my expertise into large-scale project development in the non-profit sector.” Among her accolades, Hanan, who is 57, is the senior representative and advisor for the Solomon R. Guggenheim Foundation in Abu Dhabi and recently published her first book inspired by her city, Table Tales: Exploring Culinary Diversity in Abu Dhabi. Stepping away from a hard-earned career feels daunting. And while there’s no fixed formula, the best way to master something new is to learn from those who’ve already been there and done that. From risk-taking to reinvention, we share the stories of two women who prove that our dreams don’t have to come with an expiry date.
170 THE BEAUTY ENTREPRENEUR Maria Hatzistefanis, 47, founder of Rodial and Nip + Fab, TV personality and author
Populating beauty counters from Harvey Nichols to Harrods and selling across 35 countries worldwide, Rodial, Nip + Fab, and Nip + Man are household names, but the route to acclaim for Greek founder Maria Hatzistefanis saw career shifts, a second stint in education and a gamble with her savings. Maria’s career began in the early 1990s when she was working as a beauty writer for an American teen magazine, spending her days researching new products and keeping up with the latest trends and innovations in the industry. It was at this time that she pinpointed her niche. The offering at that time seemed bland and general: there were no skincare products to target specific skin concerns like fine lines or pigmentation, which was baffling to Maria. Young and inexperienced, she felt it wasn’t her time to tackle this deficit and looked instead for a new challenge, in a new industry. She made the move from London to New York, enrolling at the prestigious Columbia Business School, where she studied for an MBA and later transitioned into finance. “I wanted to experience living in New York, and getting a degree was an added bonus,” says Maria, now 47. “The combination of living in another country and learning a new skill gave me a great basis for taking risks in the future. I don’t think I really needed a degree to be where I am today, but it didn’t hurt either.” A career in finance was exciting to begin with – Maria worked for investment bank Salomon Brothers on Wall Street before moving back to London. The role offered her an impressive salary and the opportunity to travel, but after two years she felt her thirst for the industry and work standards slip. “That’s why I was fired,” she admits. “But this was ultimately a gift, as it forced me to take the risk and start Rodial and Nip + Fab.” Her focus came back to the discovery she made during her days as a beauty writer, and she decided to take the plunge and establish her first brand, Rodial, in 1999. Of course it wasn’t easy, and Maria was faced with hurdles from the start. Investors were hesitant to back Rodial as Maria didn’t have experience in running a business, and she was forced to use her savings and become a one-woman-show in order to get her brand off the ground. “I started Rodial from a back room at home and did everything myself,” she recalls. “I worked with chemists, factories for packaging, and sold the product into retailers. I would go into the stores in London myself and sell my products on the shop floor.” She didn’t take a salary for the first few years and directed profits back into the business. “I think that when you set up your own brand, you are overwhelmed with excitement and belief in your ideas, so naturally I was impatient,” she continues. “I think some of the most difficult moments
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I had to learn to slow down. Brand building takes time and you can’t expect everything all at once. Maria Hatzistefanis
for me were times when I felt frustrated that Rodial was not in a certain store, or a buyer wouldn’t respond to my emails. I wanted so much for Rodial so quickly, and I had to learn that you need to slow down and accept that brand building takes time. You can’t expect everything all at once.” Doing things differently from day one, with product names like Snake Serum and Dragon’s Blood, helped to set Rodial apart while a marketing budget wasn’t available, and her products soon rose to cult status for their groundbreaking use of innovative ingredients that delivered unexpected results. In 2001, Fenwick in London became Maria’s first department store stockist and in 2010 she launched her second beauty brand, Nip + Fab, a range aimed at a younger clientele, at a lower price point. Her latest feat is her book, How To Be An Overnight Success, which aptly tackles the topic of career change. The project was important to Maria because it was an opportunity to inspire other women to be able to achieve their goals, both professionally and personally. “My career has been a series of risks. Some worked out and some didn’t, but I wouldn’t be where I am today if I didn’t take those risks,” she says. “I use my story as a way to show people that you can shift careers and follow a different path to success.” WORDS OF WISDOM Take risks: It’s scary, and sometimes they won’t pay off, but you have to take risks to achieve great things. Have a plan B: Always have an alternative direction to go in if things don’t pan out as expected. You need to have other ideas and directions, and you need to be creative with your ideas. Be realistic: Don’t walk into a new job or new business and assume that everything is going to come to you immediately. Success takes time and lots of hard work, and you need to make things happen for yourself. Don’t sit there and wait for amazing opportunities to come to your door, get up and make them happen. Try something new: Staying in your comfort zone won’t allow you to be experimental and experience new ways of working. Try something new every week, no matter how small. You will find the results empowering. Be patient: Being successful takes time, and you may want that top job right now, or your own business, but there is a series of steps you need to go through to reach your goals.
Greek entrepreneur Maria maximised a gap in the beauty market
172 Payal, who wears AlaĂŻa, says her love for Indian dance has remained her driving force
THE FITNESS GURU
Payal is photographed Isaarch Atelier Del Design show apartment designed by architect Antonio Minutella, located in Boulevard PLaza 1, Downton Dubai
Payal Kadakia, 35, founder of ClassPass
As a young girl, Payal Kadakia loved to dance. She began at the age of three, training in the classical Indian and folk styles of her heritage, and kept her passion alive as she moved into adulthood, studying economics and operations research at Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT) and establishing herself as a force within the corporate world. Working as a consultant at Bain & Company and later in digital strategy and business development at Warner Music Group, Indian but US-born Payal had an impressive profile to begin with, but now, aged 35, her net worth is estimated at Dhs180 million and she is named among the most promising businesswomen by Fortune magazine, in its annual recognition of female innovators, groundbreakers and game-changers, thanks to the startup that was first inspired by her hobby. “I’ve always had a huge passion for dancing,” says Payal. “But when I started looking for classes online, I felt frustrated by the inaccurate and limited offerings that didn’t seem to fit in with my work schedule. I realised that there was a need for something that streamlined the options and made classes readily available for women like me.” The idea for ClassPass was born, and Payal set about creating the online platform which she hoped would take the hassle out of online searching, letting subscribers select between a number of classes and studios, and essentially fitting fitness into their hectic lives. ClassPass describes itself as ‘an all-access membership to a global network of 10,000 fitness studios’, which today boasts more than 250,000 members in more than 50 cities across the UK, the US, Singapore, Canada, Australia, and most recently the UAE. But how did her idea become a reality? By taking action. “There are a lot of people with a lot of great ideas out there, but what’s important is execution,” Payal says. Her undergraduate degree provided a fundamental knowledge of business and a mindset to solve problems. “I studied elements of engineering and gained an in-depth understanding of business and technology at MIT, but one thing that really helped me to realise ClassPass was the Indian dance school I started in 2008, The Sa Dance Company,” she says. “This taught me how to operate a business and was an education in the small details, from taking bookings to managing events. Most importantly, it taught me how to lead and execute.” Her idea was solid, but Payal went through several rounds of trial, error and adjustment before getting it right. It was a game of patience and persistence. “There was an initial phase where many changes took place,” she says. “When we started in 2011, it wasn’t a subscription service for example.
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Surround yourself with the people that believe in what you’re doing, support you, and remind you of your ‘why’. Payal Kadakia
We had to fail a few times as we developed ClassPass and made alterations based on what customers wanted.” Naturally there were struggles, but Payal credits her strong support network with keeping her on track: “You doubt yourself from time-to-time, but one important thing I learnt is to surround yourself with people that believe in what you’re doing, support you, and remind you of your ‘why’.” There were also the challenges associated with educating the market that had to be overcome. “When ClassPass was ready to launch in 2013, we seeded it with fitness influencers and friends that really helped to generate initial awareness,” says Payal. “I believe the best products sell themselves. As soon as people tried it, they fell in love with the concept and each person would subsequently tell more friends and bring them to class, and that’s how we went viral. We had a rapid but organic growth.” And ClassPass continues to develop and grow. Payal and the team have big plans for international expansion in 2019, with hopes to enter in to 17 new markets. The beauty of Payal’s story is that she’s doing something that she’s loved since her youth: it’s a passion that keeps her committed and actively invested in her business’ future. “Sharing the incredible joy and pleasure I get from dancing with others has remained my driving factor,” she says. “It’s what kept me going, and I knew I wouldn’t stop until I succeeded.” WORDS OF WISDOM Take the leap: Remember that it’s never too late to reinvent yourself and try new things. Never coast: You shouldn’t ever feel like you’re not pushing yourself, that’s where transformation and success happens. Remain true to yourself: Don’t doubt yourself, be authentic and stay close to your mission – that’s your driving force. Uplift others: This is probably the most important piece of advice I can give. Women today can do it all, but it’s important that they share how they’re doing it and uplift others.
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SO YOU DREAM OF BEING A DESIGNER? Train to suit your own schedule with the Professional Design Institute’s self-paced online interior design programme
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etraining to action the career change that keeps you up at night can be an overwhelming prospect, but budding interior designers can gain a recognised qualification on a flexible timeframe from the Professional Design Institute. An expert team of educators, handpicked at the peak of their careers, support and mentor students as they work through a 12-module programme to pursue their passion, and realise their dream. Founded in 2015 by entrepreneur Reza Afshar who saw a gap in the market after his wife searched for an online interior design course that allowed her to balance life and two kids, Reza says, “She needed the flexibility of studying at her own pace, while being mentored by tutors. I couldn’t find a course which was internationally accredited and had world-class teachers, so I created the learning experience myself.” Hiring teachers who are authorities in their field, the Professional Design Institute has seen great success, now with over one thousand students globally and plans to translate the course into different languages, as well as offer more video seminars and bonus modules. Dianne Bolar, a professional interior designer and tutor at the institute thinks it’s a great choice for students of all ages. “It’s for anyone who has the passion to learn the subject, has a creative streak and dreams of building a career in design. We are proud that currently we have students from all age groups and different professional backgrounds who are pursuing their passion,” she shares. Courses can be completed over a timeframe of six to 18 months after which students will receive a diploma that is internationallyrecognised that will allow them to follow their design dreams. “Students can go on to be interior designers, decorators, stylists, furniture designers...” says Dianne. Whatever they choose, an accredited diploma from the Professional Design Institute will empower them to confidently move into a new career with the right qualification.
REASONS TO ENROLL
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CREATIVE LEARNING With creativity at its core, the course aims to ignite students’ imaginations through hands-on projects.
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COMPREHENSIVE TRAINING Including conceptual design, space planning, technical knowledge, and creating a design portfolio.
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FLEXIBLE PROGRAMME AND PRICING The course is self-paced and can be completed over a period of six to 18 months. Payment plans are available.
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PROFESSIONAL CERTIFICATION On completion of the course, students can obtain an internationally accredited diploma that is recognised by prestigious educational partners that are internationally respected.
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REAL WORLD APPLICATION Industry experts offer first-hand experience in business development and strategic planning, to start your new career.
For more information on the Professional Design Institute visit www.design-institute.com or call +971 4 246 9709
Life & Style Eclectic Emirati fashion designer Basma Abu Ghazaleh invites us to her home ahead of the 10-year anniversary of her fashion label Kage Words by Hafsa Lodi
Photography: Borna Ahadi
F
irst stop, coffee!” Like many busy creatives, that’s how an average day kicks off for Basma Abu Ghazaleh, the Emirati co-founder and designer behind Dubai-based fashion label, Kage. Working on her laptop, powered by caffeine and a light breakfast is how Basma, 39, starts her morning, before heading to her showroom in Dubai’s Design District, where she’ll work on executing the designs for her next collection or settle in for some business development brainstorming. Home, however, is Basma’s sanctuary, and her favourite space here, she says, is the dining room. “It’s a place where everyone comes together and gets to spend quality time with each other.” Socialising with loved ones over a good meal is one of the designer’s favourite ways to end her day, and she’ll pour just as much effort into arranging the details and ambience of a dinner party, as she will in designing innovative and fashion-forward garments for her label. Next up on her homeware shopping list is a new set of plates. “I have so much fun decorating tabletops with accessories while hosting, and a nice plate set makes all the difference.” Basma’s Emirates Hills home is a haven of contemporary furniture pieces, sculptural décor and antique touches. Bold, geometric patterns cover the tiled floors, while walls are pristine, providing excellent backdrops for a variety of statement artwork. “I love a minimal home with lots of art on the walls,” says Basma. “The wall colours are natural hues and were chosen to provide a complementary background for our art, which was designed to become the focus.” Basma says her most treasured pieces are those by Syrian-American artist Diana Al-Hadid, whom she met while the artist was exhibiting at Art Dubai. “She’s a contemporary artist who creates sculptures, installations and drawings using various media,” she tells us. “She lives and works
Above: Basma wears a dress from Kage’s cruise ’19 collection with a jacket by Oscar de la Renta and Common Projects sneakers
KAGE
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Clockwise from left: Basma’s neutral walls showcase a piece by Georges Bassil; Plush seating is backed by a bold work of iconic red strokes by Àlex de Fluvià; The living room is dramatic yet simple
in Brooklyn, New York and we commissioned two artworks from her. I love the pieces, as they are extremely detailed in their construction and complement the room beautifully.” Basma is a quintessential Dubai girl who combines luxury with tropical effervescence. A sprawling courtyard fitted with romantic pools and majestic palm trees welcome visitors to her home. Inside, the decadent floor-to-ceiling windows, which are completed with patterned drapery, velvet upholstery, patchwork cushions, gothic chandeliers, black marble and textured woods exude stately drama – a theme that also informs Basma’s aesthetic for Kage. “Designing clothes is in some respects similar to creating a piece of artwork,” she says. “Whether I’m drawing inspiration from architecture through lines or shapes or gathering inspiration from landscapes in nature – it’s all interconnected.” The designer’s current A/W18 collection is centered on printed jacquards in earthy tones with a touch of metallic sheen, combined with it-girl cuts and regal undertones. Overall, the Kage effect is effortless yet powerful, which is why the homegrown label
has managed to maintain its strong presence, with a list of returning clients and committed stockists, in a competitive retail market. “I’m very proud to say that I am approaching Kage’s 10-year anniversary and have been able to evolve over time, while remaining faithful to my brand DNA,” says the designer. While her home is marked by upscale artwork and understated opulence, at heart, Basma is a down-to-earth millennial who swears by online shopping, regular workouts and large cups of coffee. Of all of her home’s swanky components, she names her cosy bed as her favourite piece of furniture. “I treasure a good night’s sleep and comfort, and my bed gives me both,” she says. Much of her wardrobe is sourced from fashion e-tailers like Net-a-Porter and Matches Fashion, and her most recent purchase was a pair of floral leggings from Lululemon. Basma’s personal style is timeless and practical, with a subtle punch of glamour. She has a weakness for delicate fine jewellery and names the classic, oversized white shirt as the constant staple piece in her closet. With a bit of finessing, she incorporates variations of a white boyfriend-cut button-down shirt into
Above: A colourful piece by Adel El Siwi
Above: Basma wears dress from Kage cruise ’19, standing in front of a piece by Sylvain Tremblay Below: A commissioned artwork by Diana Al-Hadid
her collections for Kage too: the autumn/winter line features the Frost shirt, a double-layered design that reaches the thigh, with an unexpected ruffle at the elbow of each sleeve. When the designer wears this herself, it’s teamed with a pair of sleek leather leggings and white trainers. “I wouldn’t necessarily define my style by one particular aesthetic, rather an eclectic fusion,” says Basma. “I love to mix-and-match accessories with different silhouettes to keep my look playful and experimental.” Her penchant for creating silhouettes that strike a balance between youthful exuberance and elegant sophistication has been proven time and again; one of Kage’s strongest assets is its voguish cuts, consisting of tunics with drop-waists and peplum finishes, skirts with overlapping ruffles, tailored playsuits, longline vests and belted kimonos. Now, she’s working on releasing the brand’s upcoming cruise ’19 collection, which she says is inspired by warm weather, tropical destinations and beautiful scenery, with a colour palette to match. “From cool blue hues representing sky and water, to crimson reds and soft pink prints personifying nature’s fresh blooms,” she explains of the hues. “New fabrics were utilised for the first time: from lightweight linens to see-through chiffons and light summer tweeds, providing versatility for easy-to-wear suitcase essentials.” The collection, aimed at the contemporary globe-trotting female, features covetable high-waisted shorts splattered with feminine blooms, paired with short-sleeved white collared shirts, with their tails tied into feminine bows at the naval. Soft denim suit sets, breezy wrap skirts, off-the-shoulder jumpsuits and striped shirt-dresses that could double as kaftans are also in the versatile range, which Basma has styled with glamorous headbands tied in knots under the chin, or at the top of the head. The overall looks achieved are at once glamorous yet relaxed, with subtle bohemian undertones, provoking wistful plans of a Mediterranean cruise for the new year.
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