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16 Chairman SHAHAB IZADPANAH
EDITORIAL
PUBLISHING
Editor in Chief MOJEH IZADPANAH
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Contributing Editors ELAINE LLOYD-JONES GEMMA DEEKS LAURA BEANEY AIMEE DAWSON DINA KABBANI
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Contributing Photographers ANDREW YEE CHANTELLE DOSSER FILIP KOLUDROVIC RAISSA BISCOTTI GREG ADAMSKI AUSRA OSIPAVICIUTE TINA PATNI
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Published under HS Media Group FZ LLC Registered at Dubai Design District Building No. 8, Offices 212 P.O.Box 502333, Dubai, UAE.
ART Production and Creative Direction MOJEH MAGAZINE Art Director AMIRREZA AMIRASLANI Graphic Designer BALAJI MAHENDRAN
Cover photographed by ANDREW YEE Model Gabi Devitry wears CARTIER MAGNITUDE HIGH JEWELLERY
WWW.MOJEH.COM Louis Fourteen for MOJEH Follow us on Twitter @MOJEH_Magazine MOJEH Swiss Representative Office: Rue de Rive 4, 1204 Geneva, Switzerland Average qualified circulation (February-June 2018): 11,077 copies For the UAE printed by Emirates Printing Press LLC. Distribution- UAE: Al Nisr Distribution LLC. Bahrain: Jashanmal & Sons BSC (C). Oman: United Media Services LLC. Lebanon: Messageries Du Moyen-Orient The publishers regret that they cannot accept liability for error or omissions contained in this publication, however caused. The opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessary those of the publishers. Readers are advised to seek specialist advice before acting on information contained in this publication which is provided for general use and may not be appropriate for the readers particular circumstances. The ownership of trademark is acknowledged, therefore reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. All credits are subjects to change. Copyright HS MEDIA GROUP FZ LLC 2011
18
52
HEART OF GLASS
62
As she makes her first trip to the UAE, MOJEH talks exclusively to Kate Spade’s new creative director Nicola Glass
COSTUME DRAMA The fashion designers dedicated to saving the planet, one sustainable swimsuit at a time
76
FIX UP, LOOK SHARP Brains, beauty, and a knockout sense of style to top it all off –
98
MOJEH meets the UAE-based entrepreneurs whose business
acumen is as sharp as their dress sense
TAKING CARE OF BUSINESS The power suit swaggers into AW19, proving this fresh take on an eighties classic elbows aside the rules
142
FEMININE CHARM Delicate jewellery is the modern
woman’s go-to, slipping seamlessly
between day and night
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Praesent imperdiet pretium en
20
166
HIGH CONTRAST
176
Cheekbones shimmer and iridescent eyes hide heavy secrets
in the noirish landscape of Chanel Beauty’s Parisian winter
WHAT 74 LOOKS LIKE MOJEH talks exclusively to the legendary American fashion designer Norma Kamali about the launch of her new lifestyle concept, and what it takes to look this good as she approaches her ninth decade
194
ART AND CULTURE HAS LANDED
204
Inside Saudi Arabia’s spaceship-like mega museum
LIFE & STYLE Fashion designer, Haya Jarrar invites MOJEH into her beautifully bohemian Dubai apartment
S T R A T E G I C
HELLO GORGEOUS.
30 OCT - 2 NOV 2019 DUBAI DESIGN DISTRICT
P A R T N E R S
22
EDITOR’S LETTER
WHO RUN THE WORLD?
Above: Photographed by Raissa Biscotti; Below: Photographed by Greg Adamski
Welcome to the October issue of MOJEH, where we are celebrating innovation, collaboration and entrepreneurial spirit by featuring some of the region’s smartest female business founders. From fashion to film, in Fix Up, Look Sharp on page 76, we meet the UAE-based businesswomen bringing something unique to the city. Sharing their life lessons while looking fabulous in the new season power suits, the Canadian founder of The Daily Prep Co. Preeya Malik advises, “Success is a direct result of what you’re willing to give,” while Butheina Hamed Kazim, the Emirati co-founder of Cinema Akil, can’t stress enough the importance of believing in yourself to make your dreams come true. Other incredible women we are honoured to feature are Lebanese-American designer Léa Daaboul, and business partners Henna Marie Kaarlelah and Anna Maria Nielsen, who share their reasons for founding sustainable swimwear brands – see Costume Drama on page 62, while esteemed French designer Julie de Libran talks exclusively to us about the launch of her eponymous, sustainable label. Full of important insights and advice for anyone looking to start a business, and full of cutting-edge fashion to help you look good success inspire you as much as they have inspired me. Follow me on Twitter and Instagram @Mojeh_I and write to me at editor@mojeh.com
Mojeh Izadpanah Editor in Chief
Photography by Hana Levan
along the way, I hope this issue of MOJEH and the stories of
THE MOJEH EDIT 1
Pair luxe accessories with modern gold accents and a clean beauty look for polished sophistication
1. MESSIKA PARIS | 2. SAMER KHOUZAMI DIVINE MATT FOUNDATION | 3. FENDI | 4. CHLOÉ | 5. VHERNIER | 6. JIMMY CHOO | 7. LANCÔME HYPNÔSE MASCARA
4
2
5
3
7 6
24
ELECTRIC
AVENUE Pop-art brights, wet-look vinyl and patent leathers are perfect for taking on the night
Photographed by Tina Patni Styled by Stuart Robertson
26
Shoes, PRADA
Ville XXS Bag, BALENCIAGA
28
30 Montaigne Bag, DIOR
Sylvie 1969 Bag, GUCCI
30
Boots, BALLY
Aby Lock Bag, CHLOÉ
32
Sicily Bag, DOLCE & GABBANA
Shoes, CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN
34
Boots, FENDI
Daisy bag, BOTTEGA VENETA
36
Bag, SALVATORE FERRAGAMO
Shoes, SAINT LAURENT
Photography: Craig McDean for Louis Vuitton
38
STYLE EDIT
A CLASSIC, CONTINUED Louis Vuitton’s iconic Capucines is the bag that keeps on giving
First launched in 2013, the Capucines quickly became a fashion favourite, and now boasts a signature design for the house. Acknowledging its popularity, each season Louis Vuitton releases a new interpretation of the bag in a variety of colours and materials – this season celebrating with a campaign featuring industry icon, Julia Nobis.
CAPUCINES MINIS IN TAURILLON AND PYTHON LEATHER
THE PIECE
40
ARTS AND CRAFTS Arriving in store this October and introducing a new green colourway into Dior’s accessories repertoire, Dior’s 2019 Cruise collection draws inspiration from African cultures seen in the traditional embroidery that adorns the coveted Book Tote bag and the new Star Tarot Lady Dior bag. From left: Embroidered canvas Book Tote bag; Lady Dior bag in mint green lambskin; Embroidered Star Tarot Lady Dior bag, all DIOR
Dior Cruise 2019 bag collection
THE TECH
42
FASHION AT YOUR FINGERTIPS Fashion Forward, Dubai’s annual style event and platform for fashion designers in the Middle East returns this month, this time collaborating with UAE-based technology company Zbooni for a ‘see now, buy now’ fashion initiative
FASHION FORWARD DUBAI
Seen something you love on the catwalk but have to wait six months to get your hands on it? Fashion Forward Dubai is launching the region’s first ever fully shoppable Fashion Week straight from your phone, thanks to Zbooni, a tech app that helps businesses with the tools to sell. The fourday event, which showcases both regional and international designers, will allow attendees to shop immediately from the catwalks and presentations via messaging services including WhatsApp. Fashion Forward Dubai’s CEO and
Co-Founder, Bong Guerrero commented, “This new partnership underscores Fashion Forward Dubai’s commitment to innovation in achieving our designer’s retail objectives in a seamless, convenient and engaging way. Building relationships between shoppers and designers help create a customised experience while giving independent brands access to vital new buying audiences.” Fashion Forward Dubai returns to Dubai Design District from October 30 – November 2, 2019; Fashionforward.ae
HASS IDRISS
FARAH WALI
The Beirut-based designer
Farah Wali is a mixed
moved to London aged 17 to
media artist known for her
study fine arts, and showed
innovative collections that
his first collection at London
showcase wearable art. She
Fashion Week in 2009.
won the Fashion Star Arabia
Shadowing the visionaries from
competition in 2018, the first
David LaChapelle to Alexander
and youngest female Egyptian
McQueen his collections fuse
to win a fashion contest in the
art and technology.
Middle East.
MEET FASHION FORWARD’S NEW FACES The new designers making their debut at Fashion Forward this October
TANYA SKAFF
JESSICA KHOUEIRIACHKAR
Born and raised in Africa, Tanya Skaff aspired to become a designer from the
Lebanese designer Jessica
age of nine, with a special interest in
Khoueiri-Achkar created her label
textiles and tailoring. Her practice is
Jessica K in 2010 with the modern
informed by a desire for storytelling,
woman in mind. Her feminine
and in 2017 she was awarded the ‘Elie Saab internship for commitment to excellence and craftsmanship’.
silhouettes are mixed with an urban
REBECCA ZAATAR The Beirut-based designer was discovered by Elie Saab and joined his creative team for seven years. In April 2016, she launched her own clothing line, Thym.
edge for easy day-to-night dressing.
44
GIVENCHY
PEARLY QUEEN THE TRENDS
Headbands are having a moment, still. First seen at the Givenchy autumn/winter haute couture presentation by Clare Waight Keller, and then, notably on Ariana Grande, the Ariana headband with large resin pearls and Swarovski crystals is available alongside the house’s ready-to-wear collection this season for exceptional evening dressing. Take your accessories to new heights.
BLUES CLUES Sky blue accessories are the new millennial pink, from Bottega Veneta’s quilted square-toe leather pumps to Chanel’s cornflower sheepskin bag, fashion’s got the blues
BOTTEGA VENETA CHANEL
BY FAR J.W. ANDERSON
FOR THE LOVE OF DIOR emblems of the house, including the Lady Dior bag, and reimagined them with the colour red. A favourite shade of Christian Dior, who described it as “the colour of life,” along with symbols of love – the heart, one of the founding couturier’s lifelong lucky symbols. Fashion jewellery, pumps, silk scarves and ready-to-wear are also decorated with declarations of love. Be still, our beating hearts. Dior.com
DIOR
RIXO
STYLISH KNITS A first for the London-based label that was a year in the making, Rixo’s new knitwear styles include lighter transitional, silk-mix knit dresses and separates perfect for a middle eastern winter. Rixo.co.uk
LE SMOKING Standing by the statement that every woman should own at least one in her wardrobe, Max Mara’s tuxedo-themed capsule collection unleashes the brand’s ‘boss lady’ aesthetic with seven special looks in a black, white and rose quartz. Max Mara, The Dubai Mall
MAX MARA
THE LAUNCHES
Diorarmour, an exclusive collection from Dior has taken icons and
THE HOT LIST
46 ACCEPTABLE IN THE ’80S
SQUARE-TOED SHOES
Launching this month, Dutch designer Lieselot Elzinga talks us through her bold
Bottega Veneta’s square shapes have been
debut collection, exclusively available on Matches Fashion
the sharpest shoe of the season. Next up? Simple sandals are following suit with
ELZINGA AT MATCHES FASHION
a linear upgrade.
BY FAR
BOTTEGA VENETA
What’s an average workday for you? I work from my studio in Amsterdam East. We are still a very small team, it’s just me and my companion/co-designer and a product
THE ROW at NET-A-PORTER
developer. I’m usually busy with sketching, designing prints and finding new inspiration in books, magazines and online. How did the label come to be? I have been a bass player in an all-girl band since the age of 12. Being on stage from such a young age, and especially in a man’s world like the music industry, made me discover how to use fashion as a tool to gain more confidence on stage. It was like designing a mini collection every time we went on stage. After we stopped performing, I continued with this vision and that’s how the brand started. There’s a strong ’80s feel to your collection, why choose that decade? The ’80s is a great era music-wise! I listen to a lot of new wave and punk from the eighties, so that’s definitely something I’m influenced by. I also like the way women appear to be really strong in ’80s fashion, it’s all about power dressing which is something I did too on stage. How did the process come about in partnering with Matches Fashion? In my second year of art school I got approached by Parrot
STAUD
Agency, and after my graduation collection I decided to start my own brand and work together with them. After I finished this collection, I got to show it in their showroom in Paris and that’s where Matches Fashion saw it for the first time. What can we expect from the Matches Fashion collection? Simple shapes, extravagant prints and dresses. Which piece from the collection do you believe to be your best-selling one and why? The Zebra Circle Sleeve Mini dress – because it’s bold, exciting and unique! What are your favourite pieces? I would say either one of the Circle Sleeve dresses. I just really like the simplicity of the item combined with the print. Do you see yourself as a designer for a new generation? Definitely! Fashion is changing all the time and I’m a designer who represents the time I’m in. Elzinga.studio.com
CULT GAIA at HARVEY NICHOLS-DUBAI
SNAKE EYES THE COLLABS
Bulgari have collaborated with American fashion designer, Alexander Wang on a limited-edition collection of handbags reimagining the brand’s iconic Serpenti motif designs. Wanting to create something desirable for the global consumer of any age, Wang’s fresh, clean-cut styles are a modern vision for the Italian brand.
STELLA MCCARTNEY X HUNTER
A SUSTAINABLE STEP For AW19, Stella McCartney has teamed up with Hunter to create a sustainable boot that fuses Stella’s modern design aesthetic with iconic British heritage. The new generation of footwear uses sustainably-sourced natural BVLGARI X ALEXANDER WANG
rubber and an innovative material called Yulex™. We’re eagerly anticipating rainy European city breaks.
RODARTE X COLE HAAN
RODARTE X COLE HAAN Global footwear brand, Cole Haan has partnered with Laura and Kate Mulleavy, the sisters behind fashion house Rodarte, on a capsule collection of accessories fusing Haan’s superior comfort and flexibility designs with Rodarte’s romantic aesthetic. The Dubai Mall
MARY KATRANTZOU X THE OUTNET
PRINTS CHARMING Available online from October 2, The Outnet x Mary Katrantzou capsule collection offers 14 pieces in one of her signature prints using innovative fabrics that have been re-worked in four different colour combinations exclusively for the e-tailer. The capsule includes a variety of feminine dresses, signature separates and a super-chic jumpsuit. TheOutnet.com
48 THE STAPLES
RAEY
RAEY at MATCHES FASHION
WARDROBE CLASSICS Matches Fashion’s in-house label, Raey, offers stylish everyday pieces, finished in luxurious fabrics and oversized, androgynous silhouettes. The new AW19 collection encapsulates the modern woman’s wardrobe with an impressive selection of desirable pieces, including a coveted oversized suit and easy chic shirt and skirt separates that you will wear time and time again.
NEW SHAPES Ditch the basic bags and opt for artistic arm candy in smooth, structured leather. They’re an AW19 necessity
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1. LOEWE | 2. STAUD | 3. J.W. ANDERSON | 4. SIMONE ROCHA at NET-A-PORTER
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THE POP-UPS I WANT CHOO Between October 3-12, Jimmy Choo will open a dedicated pop-up shop in The Dubai Mall’s Fashion Avenue, debuting the new Jimmy Choo monogram featuring the label’s initials on bags, shoes and ready-to-wear. Exclusive Middle East styles will be available, including the MINEA 45 mules and sandals in different variations.
CUSTOM KICKS Available at a selection of stores worldwide, Dior’s personalisation service, ABCDior, allows you to customise your Walk’n’Dior sneakers with up to three embroidered letters on a two-tone label fixed to the back of your shoe. Put your best foot forward.
DIOR
50 THE DUO
ARIK AND LAURENT BITTON
FIVE MINUTES WITH... IRO PARIS With newly-opened stores at The Dubai Mall and Mall of the Emirates, MOJEH speaks to the design duo about the birth of the contemporary label, Middle Eastern style, and their return to eveningwear Tell us about Iro Paris. The name comes from the way we pronounce “hero”, it sounds like “iro”. We like to be fully behind the brand by sharing our inspirations and projects with our customers, as it’s something you never see – the behind the scenes. We come from a music background, which is very ironic in our collections. What has inspired you for the AW19 collection? The AW19 collection was inspired by the parties of the ’80s and ’90s, the sexy, shiny dresses, but styled in a soft way. In the ’00s, especially in America, we saw people wearing jeans and a sweatshirt to work and then wearing sexy dresses in the evening to go out. We believe that today we are coming back to that, dressing cool and casual in the day and then sexy in the evening. There is a need for seduction in our nightlife. Why do you think the collection will do well in the Middle East? We believe that the region loves to enjoy life, to share moments and parties, and live in the moment with all the intensity that brings. What do you admire about the style of the women in the Middle East? Today, with all the social networking, fashion is more globalised, so we see cool girls in the Middle East just as we see cool girls all around the world. We are excited by the fact there are so many of these cool girls who can repurpose different looks and perceptions of fashion. We are convinced that the Middle East has a lot to say about fashion. What are your favourite pieces in the collection and why? All the sexy and shiny dresses! We are big fans of eveningwear, so we came back to it. We also love the oversized coats and high-waisted trousers that can be mixed with big knits and a high-waisted belt.
THE SHOW: POETRY IN MOTION An enduring visionary, Pierpaolo Piccioli enlisted four poets to collaborate with him on a collection inspired by love, with guests at the AW19 Valentino show gifted with a booklet of poems describing the romance of clothes and self-expression at the fashion house. Demonstrating modern day romanticism, these love letters were printed onto his designs amongst pieces covered in roses and starry skies, with one poem extolling, “There’s a forever beyond the sky, I think we should go there tonight”. He received an emotional standing ovation.
VALENTINO
THE SNEAKERS Chunky soles, colour-blocked designs and bold laces; new season sneakers will up your style game in a flash
2 1
3 1. ISABEL MARANT at NET-A-PORTER | 2. CHLOÉ | 3. SANDRO
52
As she makes her first trip to the UAE, MOJEH talks exclusively to Kate Spade’s new creative director, Nicola Glass, about what it means to follow in the footsteps of one of fashion’s most fearless female trailblazers Words by Lucy Wildman
Photography: Courtesy of Kate Spade New York
W
alking in the footsteps of an industry legend is that much fashion. My mum was very stylish – she’d go to no easy task. But that’s exactly the path Jaeger, and she wore a lot of Jackie O-style headscarves, Nicola Glass, the new creative director of but it was a challenge sourcing things.” Citing her mother, Kade Spade New York, is treading in her role at the famed 80s girl band, Bananarama, and Margot from 1970s British American fashion label. Responsible for leading all creative TV show, The Good Life, as her early style inspirations, aspects of the brand, including women’s accessories and the designer used to cut out articles on Kate as a teen. ready-to-wear design, homewear, imagery and store “She was such a shining example of a female entrepreneur environments – which includes the brand’s newly-upgraded who’d set up a successful business,” recalls Nicola. boutique at Dubai’s Mall of the Emirates which she’ll open “I remember reading about Kate and pulling magazine this month – Nicola’s impeccable credentials have been clippings that were written about her. I was inspired by honed at some of the biggest fashion houses in the business. her entrepreneurial spirit – she was a true pioneer in this Briefly studying architecture in Edinburgh before industry. I really felt if she could do it, a girl from Missouri, relocating to London to focus on bag then I could maybe do something in design at The Royal College of Art fashion coming from Belfast.” With “Kate was a while she interned with Alexander such a long-standing admiration for pioneer in affordable the brand’s founder, Nicola’s McQueen, the Northern Irish native moved on to work in Gucci’s handbag appointment at the label decades later luxury. A true division, alongside a young Alessandro seemed almost written in the stars. trailblazer” Michele, Gucci’s now creative director, And seeing an opportunity when she Nicola Glass when it was based in London under took the helm, to evolve the brand’s Tom Ford. Leaving the UK to begin ready-to-wear collection, while what would become a 13-year tenure at Michael Kors in maintaining the DNA and unique personality Kate Spade New York as senior vice president of accessories, Nicola’s is known for, Nicola’s decision to redefine house codes, fashion pedigree is unquestionable. Positioned at the while injecting a fresh new perspective of her own, saw beating heart of some of the most commercially successful the label present its first ever runway show just nine high and affordable luxury brands in the world, replacing months after her arrival. “It was really important to do a Kate Spade New York’s long-serving creative director show for my ready-to-wear debut. It allowed the guests to Deborah Lloyd in January last year, Nicola took on her see the fluidity in the collection, to properly reflect the new role with a nuanced understanding of what both Kate shift to a modern silhouette by infusing movement into Spade the woman and the brand represented, just before the experience,” says Nicola, whose SS19 catwalk show it’s namesake creator sadly passed away in June 2018. was noted as a huge success from both industry and “Kate was one of the reasons I decided to go into fashion,” consumer perspectives. “Details are important to me, so says Nicola. “Growing up in Belfast, there really wasn’t I also wanted the guests to be able to see the pieces up
THE CREATIVE DIRECTOR
HEART OF GLASS
54
Nicola in her office at Kate Spade New York HQ
close, which is why shows have been held in a smaller venue with the models passing directly in front of our guests. As we continue to grow and evolve, we might try new formats or experiment with new ideas, but that is the beauty of this brand – it allows for a lot of creativity.” Presenting fit and flare crêpe de chine midis and velvet trouser suits in glorious jewel shades, a smattering of pastels and elevated signature prints topped off with glossy leather bags and boots, Nicola’s refined and eclectic 40s-meets-70s-inspired line proved a big hit on the front row and, most importantly, in store. “The feedback from press and customers has been wonderful,” smiles Nicola, who credits her ability in creating affordable luxury pieces from her time at Michael Kors. Instrumental in the launch of Kors by Kors, the designer’s second line, the diffusion range kickstarted a global rush for his luxurious-looking Dhs1,500-Dhs2,000 bags. “I’ve learned how to make a Dhs2,000 bag look its best, and last,” says Nicola, who stripped Kate Spade’s exisiting bag designs of any fussy details when she arrived, updating the line with a collection of distinctive, streamlined pieces that look far more expensive than they are. “I really love where Kate Spade sits – the sweet spot for a dress is around Dhs2,500. You should be able to expect quality and longevity for that. It’s not cheap, but it feels a lot more relevant than all those luxury brands charging
Dhs25,000 for a dress.” Presenting her spring/summer 2020 show at New York Fashion Week last month in another intimate setting, this time at community sculpture hub, Elizabeth Street Garden, one of the city’s prettiest and most secret green oases, the designer’s fifth collection for the brand is inspired by an urban safari. Staying true to Kate Spade’s core DNA, and the promise of ‘Optimistic Femininity’, timeless safari-inspired silhouettes are reimagined in ultra-feminine fabrics, prints and colours, with fit and flare dresses, A-line sweaters, lace co-ords, leather, tweed and crochet separates topped off with beautifully-constructed wicker bags. “My starting point for this season was imagining everything a woman would need for her next big adventure – even if that adventure is right outside her door,” explains Nicola. “I wanted to find the balance between functionality and style, using luxe fabrics but in relaxed silhouettes, and cross-body handbags in unique materials and whimisical shapes.” Diversifying its catwalk for the first time by inviting globally-recognised actresses, influencers and models – exemplifying a range of body types and ages – to walk the show, Nicola explains she focused on how real women wear the collections when designing what was sure to be a highly-scrutinised second ready-to-wear line. “When I started working on spring 2020, I concentrated on how I saw real women wearing
“
85 per cent of our company, and 85 per cent of our leadership team are women. We’re one of the few brands in the industry whose CEO and creative director are both female. Nicola Glass
our pieces from last season, because I saw that she was responding to our new prints. For the show, we wanted to reflect real women in real situations, and evoke the feeling of viewing a diverse range of women walking past you on the street.” Highlighting the existing brand ethos of female empowerment, established in the very beginnings of the label by its founder, the show included appearances by an array of women admired by the brand – from model Karen Elson and actress Debi Mazar to art curators and film makers. “One of the things I love the most about working for Kate Spade is that the brand believes in the power of women in all aspects,” says Nicola. “Not only is 85 per cent of our company female, but 85 per cent of our leadership team are women. We’re one of the few brands in the industry whose CEO and creative director are both female.” Creating a second catwalk collection that appeals on numerous levels – ticking the boxes of flattering, wearable, stylish, luxurious and affordable, and finished with exacting attention to detail – Nicola’s aim of creating pieces that both existing and new customers find covetable appears to be well on track. “Kate Spade is a celebration of women across time zones, generations and style creeds who are living their lives to the fullest,” says Nicola. “Our woman is real, confident and youthful at heart, no matter her age. A woman who is in love with life, with a self-defined purpose, who expresses this through her clothes and how she wears them.” Working to move the brand forward – creating modern and iconic products while establishing consistencies across categories she can build upon season after season – while steering a multi-billion dirham brand in such challenging times – is no picnic and Nicola approaches the challenge philosophically. “Faith not fear is my motto. Believe in yourself. It’s good to try things that scare you – it’s how you grow and develop. When I remind myself of that, I look around and think about how Kate created all this herself. She was a pioneer in affordable luxury. The more I find out about her, the more I realise that she was a true trailblazer.”
Nicola’s fit and flare midi dresses from her debut collection proved a huge success
Supermodel Karen Elson walked Kate Spade’s diversity-focused SS20 catwalk
56 HELLO, SUNSHINE Buttercup, marigold, lemon – yellow was big for
ROKSANDA
LANVIN
THE BUYS
last season and it’s here to shine on for AW19
KAREN WAZEN | CHLOÉ | LOEWE
RETRO SHADES Whether inspired by the ’80s or ’90s, vintage-looking sunglasses will
STELLA MCCARTNEY
have you throwing some serious style shade. Coloured lenses essential.
BOTTEGA VENETA
Made exclusively for Dubai and Kuwait, Bottega Veneta’s iconic pouch mules to match. It’s going to be a sell-out. Exclusive to Bottega Veneta stores in Dubai and Kuwait
ALESSANDRA RICH
has been reinvented in a luxe metallic blue, with a pair of square-toe
Photography: Gorunway.com
MIDDLE EAST METALLICS
DRESS DRAMA
Clothes spoke volumes on the AW19 catwalks, from over-the-top ruffles and puff sleeves to balloon skirts and masses of colourful tulle. Londonbased designers Molly Goddard and Mary Katrantzou opted for layers of ruffles in punchy shades, while Alexander McQueen and Richard Quinn showed off balloon-shaped taffeta skirts that looked ready for take-off. Eveningwear has taken a show-stopping step-up, and is more elevated than ever. More is more, ladies...
MARY KATRANTZOU ERDEM
MARC JACOBS
RICHARD QUINN
BRANDON MAXWELL
MOLLY GODDARD
THE MOOD
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
Designers pumped up the volume this season and took dresses to new heights. Minimalists, look away
58
ESPOSA PRIVÉ
CAROLINA HERRERA AT ETOILE LA BOUTIQUE
THE WEDDING EDIT
KHOON HOOI at THE LIST
GOWNS OF GLORY Wedding season is upon us, so let the frock shopping begin. Don’t know where to start? Then allow us to assist. New luxury occasionwear brand Khoon Hooi prides itself on luxurious fabrics and clean cut silhouettes, and can be ordered exclusively on gothelist.com from the comfort of your sofa. The Privé collection from the Dubai-based Esposa boutique on Al Wasl Road has an impressive selection of classic and contemporary gowns, while Etoile “La Boutique” has a curated eveningwear edit of the world’s finest designers. Say yes to the dress.
WHAT TO WEAR Nail wedding guest attire with ladylike lace, pretty pastel shades and feminine florals you can wear again and again.
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1. COSTARELLOS at HARVEY NICHOLS – DUBAI | 2. ALICE MCCALL | 3. SELF PORTRAIT at NET-A-PORTER | 4. VALENTINO
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THE LABEL
BY FAR AW19
From left: By Far designers Sabina Gyosheva, Valentina Bezuhanova, Denitsa Bumbarova
because the team on the other side of world is just waking up. I usually go to bed at around 2am with a book. How did the label come to be? Like all great things, it started with a love affair with fashion. Sabina and I had so many ideas about what we wanted to wear and see in the marketplace. Things started to come together, and the puzzle was almost complete when we found a small, family-operated factory where we wanted to produce. Then we found Italian leathers we loved and of course, the community of By Far girls we wanted to represent with our designs. What has inspired you for the AW19 collection? A common theme about the Artist and the Muse kept coming up throughout the whole process of creating this collection. The silhouettes have a classic ’90s feel while an artistic twist alters the whole vibe with whimsical colours, textures and shapes. It’s timeless and elegant but elevated with slight exaggeration, and
GOING FAR...
is most of all intended to be fun. We want girls to feel good about
MOJEH meets Valentina Bezuhanova, one third of the
this collection? We wanted to explore texture as much as
brains behind Australian accessory label By Far, the brand
colour this season with splashes of lime green and turquoise
she set up with twin sister Sabina and best friend Denista...
on decadent plissé, red and blue snake prints and different
Describe an average work day for you? My day starts at
revisit every time? While it’s important for us to look ahead
6am with a double espresso, cold water and a bunch of emails
and constantly change with each season, we’re also sentimental
to answer. By 7:30am I leave to take my son to school. The
about certain styles from our previous collections. You’ll discover
whole team gathers at 9:00am sharp at the office where we all
them reiterated in exciting new fabrications like the Tanya mule
start with a quick brainstorming session over collections, how
and Rachel baguette. For AW19, we’ve really gone above and
we can stay closer to our By Far girls, and lots of other cool
beyond with so many new shapes and fantastic silhouettes.
ideas. Our team is spread globally, so most of our meetings are
How does this collection differ from previous seasons? I feel
on the phone. I’m usually back home at 6:00pm, and spend
it’s more grown up in a sense yet at the same time doesn’t take
quality time with the kids (we have four kids between the three
itself too seriously. There is a palpable evolution in our aesthetic
co-founders.) Once they go to bed, our working day continues
which is exciting as we feel like we’re changing with our customer.
wearing it. What materials did you choose to work with in
variations of our staple crocodile emboss. Are there pieces you
60 An oversized purple blazer is a new season must
ON THE STREET
Leonie Hanne mixes pastels at London Fashion Week
Pair icy blues with stark white accessories
Blue and fluoro green should always be seen
Forget mellow yellow, go neon for ultimate impact Emerald green leather nails two trends in one
COLOUR ME HAPPY Colourblocking was as hot on the street as it was on the catwalk at Fashion Week. Whether worn head-to-toe or mixed and matched, this season is all about making a colour splash.
The power of pink at Paris Fashion Week
STYLE SOLDIERS Attention! Fashion-meets-function as this season’s utility trend makes a sartorial stand. Statement combat pockets, pronounced buttons, epaulettes and sharp tailoring are an essential on the front line of your fall wardrobe.
Knockout black accessories and the jumpsuit of the season by The Frankie Shop
A feminine midi, military-style
Functional pockets add army-allure
Photography: Gorunway.com
Unexpected detail elevates a classic trench coat
Camo green makes an appearance in Milan
Elbow-length leathers are this season’s glove story
Relaxed utility tailoring is your new work uniform
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Photography: Borna Ahadi. With special thanks to Nikki Beach Resort & Spa Dubai
MOJEH TALKING POINT
Léa Daaboul wearing her label’s best-selling Monroe swimsuit
COSTUME DRAMA
The fashion designers dedicated to saving the planet, one sustainable swimsuit at a time
Words by Dina Kabbani and Lucy Wildman
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he sad reality of the state of our oceans makes heartwrenching headlines every day. From islands beseiged by tonnes of plastic washing up on their shorelines to magnificent sea creatures dying from ingesting discarded bottles and bags, the global emergency of plastic pollution cannot be ignored. But while the responsible citizen has become more mindful of the devastating effect general plastic waste has upon the environment – and sustainability is currently a huge subject of debate in the fashion industry – seemingly clued-up consumers may not have considered the effect their choice of swimsuit has upon the very waters we are trying to save. The specific problem with swimwear being that the innocent-looking bikini or knockout one-piece you bought for that longed-for return to the UAE’s beaches this winter is probably made of plastic. Standard swimwear is commonly made from synthetic virgin materials such as elastane, polyester, Lycra and Spandex, perfectly suited to the product because they wick moisture and stretch across the body, thus reducing friction in the water. Versatile and inexpensive to make, these plastic-based fabrics are heavily relied upon by the fashion industry, not just for swimwear, but also activewear, outerwear, and cheap, ‘fast fashion’ garments. But this is where the appeal ends and the trouble begins. Causing serious damage to the environment, once in the water, most synthetic swimwear sheds tiny plastic fibres, known as microplastics, choking up the ocean and destroying the aquatic life that lives there. Shedding fibres not only when you swim in it, but again when it’s thrown into the washing machine, these cheapto-buy and even cheaper-to-produce swimmers come at the expense of the earth. An estimated 65 million tons of these plastic-based materials are generated every year – and because plastic is not biodegradable, it never decomposes. Instead, it sits in landfills or
Manufactured responsibly in Bali, Léa The Label sources only the highest luxury fabrics from Italy to produce its swimwear
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A champion of sustainability, designer Mara Hoffman uses Econyl fibre in all of her swimwear
oceans forever, adding to the estimated eight billion tons of plastic that already exists on the planet. With no biogradeable material comprising all the requirements neccessary for a swimsuit currently available on the market, eco-friendly brands are relying upon the next best sustainable alternative: recycled plastics. First adopted by luxury swimwear brands like Mara Hoffman, a pioneer in the use of Econyl (nylon created from recycled plastic, including industrial plastic diverted from landfills and oceans) and Repreve (polyester fibre made of 100 per cent recycled plastic taken from discarded water bottles), a growing list of new brands are creating swimwear using these fabrics to make high-performance products boasting minimal environmental impact with maximum allure. Amongst these independent labels is Dubai-based Ohoy Swim, a sustainable swimwear brand founded in 2016 by Danish friends Henna Marie Kaarlelah and Anna Maria Nielsen. “We are both keen surfers and spend a lot of time in the sea. We’ve seen how the water is changing, and how much waste and pollution is ending up there,” explains Henna. “Sitting on a surfboard on holiday in Indonesia and feeling plastic bags floating around our legs was a defining moment. It made us decide to start a company to produce sustainable swimwear as well as support non-governmental organisations that are committed to cleaning up the oceans.” With a mainstay collection of signature pieces, as well as new style and
Photography: Jem Mitchell. Styling: Natalie Brewster
Ohoy Swim focuses upon minimalistic, Scandinavian design
Ohoy Swim’s founders Anna Nielsen and Henna Marie Kaarlelah
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Sitting on a surfboard in Indonesia feeling plastic bags floating around our legs was a defining moment. It made us decide to start a sustainable swimwear company that would help clean up the ocean. Henna Marie Kaarlelah
colour drops launched approximately four times a year, the slow fashion label is all about upholding green practices and creating responsibly-sourced products. The sustainably-minded design duo use Econyl for their pieces, made from abandoned fishing nets, carpets and rigid textiles – one that aims to be a green alternative to nylon, which is made from an oil derivative. “After a lot of research, we discovered Econyl, a fabric which we source from Italy and use in all of our suits,” explains Anna. “Our product is quite simple. We use two layers instead of using a lining; to us it made no sense to use a recycled part of a product and then use regular nylon for the rest.” With a focus on Scandinavian simplicity, their look-good-do-good pieces are cut with a minimalistic silhouette that prioritises functionality – their bestselling piece being the Marrakesh bikini, a high-waisted pant with a bikini top that covers the midriff. Launched last year by Lebanese American designer Léa Daaboul, swimwear brand Léa The Label also champions the ‘need to go green’ movement with its use of the same environmentally friendly material. “We currently manufacture responsibly in Bali, a place where yoga, beach culture and sustainable visions are widely common,” says the 30-year-old designer. “I’m keen on delivering excellence and wanted to make sure that we used the highest quality fabrics. That’s when we came across Econyl – all our premium swimwear is created with this fabric.” With her second collection packaged using non-plastic materials, like Ohoy Swim, Léa’s brand concept is also focused on supporting the slow fashion movement. “We make timeless collections, avoiding fast fashion and mass production to allow more time for creativity and construction. We want to focus on ethical, affordable pieces, using luxury, eco-friendly fabrics that last,” says Léa. Despite being a key focus of fashion news for seasons, one of the challenges she has faced is getting consumers to understand this slower design cycle. “The industry is growing rapidly, and new collections are launched monthly, if not weekly.
But fast fashion compromises on numerous different levels, and more environmental damage is caused. The more people are taught about sustainability, understand these matters, and then demand sustainable practices are met, the more likely the fashion industry will listen to their customers and react accordingly,” Léa explains. “It’s vital those who are championing sustainability in the industry continue with a positive approach, avoiding unneccessary wastage, prioritising environmental concerns and helping to reduce toxic working conditions.” Henna and Anna face similar issues when it comes to educating the consumer. “We do not produce volumes at small cost price, but smaller collections that are therefore more expensive,” explains Henna. “The Middle Eastern market seems less concerned with sustainability issues than others. We sell the vast majority of our stock in Europe, where it appears that they are focusing more upon the environment, but here, it’s still not an obvious choice for people.”
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Brazilian sustainable swimwear brand Casa Raki is the brainchild of ex-photographer, Josefina Alazraki
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I have a huge amout of respect for the sea. It wouldn’t sit right with me if I created a brand that was contributing to the problem. Josefina Alazraki
Online fashion giant MatchesFashion.com has long made the environmental impact of fashion a focus of their business, and are very much part of the movement educating consumers about sustainable swimwear. Championing a range of sustainable vacationwear brands, from eco-focused originals like Mara Hoffman to a clutch of new labels including Fisch, Talia Collins, Pippa Holt, Dos Gardenios and My Beachy Side, one of their most recently-launched sustainability stars is Brazilian brand, Casa Raki. The brainchild of London-based, Argentinian fashion photographer Josefina Alazraki, the brand combines mindful production with pared-back, beautiful design, resulting in a line that perfectly balances style with substance. “As a photographer, I was able to analyse the market and saw a real lack of sustainable and ethical products,” she explains. “There were many that approached it half-heartedly but not many tackled it head-on and in every aspect of the business. I wanted to combine this with my dream of having a vacationwear brand, giving consumers an elegant and
easy way to do the right thing by the environment.” As a girl born and raised in Buenos Aires, beachwear was naturally a huge part of her lifestyle. “Growing up in Argentina meant it was almost always summer,” says Josefina. “As a result, people take their swimwear very seriously. You have to when you essentially live in it.” Crafted from Econyl, the Casa Raki collection comprises classic, form-flattering swimsuits and bikinis that Josafina believes make women feel “empowered, not exposed.” Combining the beachwear style of both her native and adopted countries, her designs appeal on multiple levels. “There is a touch of the risqué as the cuts are a hybrid of South American sexiness and European elegance,” she smiles. “The Casa Raki woman is feminine but sexy. She’s caring, ethical, cultured and modern. She’s confident in her own skin.” Initially inspired by the moral standing of her younger sister, Josafina’s business model was created with environmental responsibility at its very core. “My sister is a true advocate for sustainability, her love for the ocean and surfing is just contagious, and she has educated me well,” she explains. “I couldn’t contemplate starting a project in 2018 without thinking about the future. I have a huge amount of respect for the sea; it wouldn’t sit right with me if I created a brand that was contributing to the problem.” In addition to utilising upcycled materials, Josafina has also considered the longevity of her product. “These pieces are intended to be kept,” she says. “I give my customers tips on how to prolong the life of their swimwear, so the romance comes as you fall in love with a style and wear it for ever.” Part of Net Sustain, Net-A-Porter’s recently-launched platform for brands, products and content driven by a desire to make fashion more sustainable, Australian label Peony’s exclusive capsule for the online retailer has been created using entirely sustainable and recycled fabrics. Debuting a recycled and sustainable lining developed inhouse at Peony, every layer of designer Becky Morton’s swimwear is made from recycled content, which marked a huge milestone for the independent, family-run label. The eldest of four girls, Becky grew up in south east Queensland, surrounded by some of the world’s most
Peony founder Becky Morton was one of the first to champion the use of luxury sustainable fabric, Econyl, in her swimwear
pristine beaches, where it’s summer for nine months of the year. “We lived in our bikinis when we were kids, and school holidays consisted of family trips to Byron Bay and Noosa,” recalls Becky, who originally trained to be a solicitor. “For me, there was a very warm sense of association as well as a thorough understanding of what a great swimsuit looked like, so when I decided to ditch my law career and pursue design, swimwear was the natural choice.” Always an environmentally mindful label, in 2017, Peony started taking significant steps towards being a wholly-sustainable brand. “We refer to this process as a journey, because as we progress, we realise there is always more to learn, new ways to adapt and endless possibilities to evolve,” says Becky. An eco-pioneer in the swimwear category, Peony only use premium textural materials like Econyl, as well as it’s own sustainable fabrications and textile prints created exclusively in-house, aligning sustainability with luxury as each stage of production. “Our collections are inspired by a life-long love affair with the ocean,” says Becky of Peony’s classic shapes and soft colour palettes. “We care deeply for our environment and community – after all, we create garments to wear while enjoying the infinite beauty of nature. But beyond that, are creating so much more than swimwear. We are creating a world that our girl is a part of.”
Using luxury sustainable fabrics in classic shapes are a Peony signature
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MOJEH FASHION
“A DRESS IS LIKE A PIECE OF MUSIC” As she launches her eponymous label, Julie De Libran reveals her mission to create fashion with meaning through dresses that have a story to tell Words by Lucy Wildman
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MatchesFashion.com are the exclusive etailer for the limited-edition leopard print version of the Alexia evening dress
t’s been something of an an eventful year for Julie De Libran. Departing suddenly from French fashion house Sonia Rykiel in March after five years as their artistic director, and shortly before the historic brand went into liquidation this summer, the 39-year old designer launched her eponymous, made-to-order label just three months later, showing her debut collection to an exclusive group of guests at her Paris home in July. Gearing up to launch a limitededited capsule of sustainably-focused dresses with Matches Fashion at the end of September, “2019 really has been a crazy year!” reveals Julie, as we chat to her from her Paris atelier. “What happened at Sonia Rykiel was really sad and absolutely shocking for me,” she says, when we ask about her much-discussed split with the label. “It was really sad because it’s a beautiful brand – so historic, so iconically French. I was there for five years. I left because of... disagreements. It was was all very complicated with the management. Ideas just weren’t moving forwards... about launching the brand internationally, about investing, about strategy. I don’t know. It was a very difficult five years in that respect. Always a bit of a battle. But I don’t regret a minute of it. In those five years, we did some incredible things at Sonia Rykiel. We did a haute couture show. We opened a street dedicated to the memory of Sonia, the label’s incredible, wonderful founder. I worked with such a talented and dedicated team, and enjoyed it all so very much. And I learned so much. But I’m trying to be philopsophical about things, and not look back. So, I’m focusing upon the future.” From all perspectives, the future for Julie looks bright. After studying fashion at Instituto Marangoni in Milan and Ecole de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture in Paris, her career began in 1991 at Gianfranco Ferre in Milan before
Designer Julie De Lebran (pictured right) poses with model wearing her Bluebird evening dress
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The Jones cocktail dress
The Bluebird cocktail dress
being asked to join Gianni Versace as his assistant in 1996. intimate gathering at her house in Paris during couture week Moving to Prada two years later, she spent ten years in July. “I’m much less scared now than I was,” reveals Julie. overseeing women’s ready-to-wear, made-to-measure, “I think I probably didn’t do it beforehand because I genuinely celebrity dressing and lingerie collections, rising to design was scared, but now, I feel like I know I can do this.” director as Miuccia Prada’s right-hand woman. Returning to After thinking about it for so long, the physical launch of Julie’s Paris in 2008, for the next six years she served as creative label was rapid. “In fashion, you’re used to working quickly, director for women’s ready-to-wear because fashion is all about the moment, and head of the design studio under so it didn’t really feel like it happened “For me, a dress is Marc Jacobs at Louis Vuitton, before that fast. I’d had the idea for a long time like a piece of music. being tapped as artistic director for too, so in a way, it was an opportunity Sonia Rykiel in 2014. Launching her to push myself – to just go out there and It’s a memory of a long-considered label in June of this get it done!” Choosing to focus entirely party or a person year, was she scared to be suddenly upon dresses, Julie’s business plan that you met, a going out on her own? “Yes and no,” revolves around a sustainability angle says Julie. “Maybe because I’d been in the – using archived or deadstock fabric to moment that you’ll business for so long, and always working create every piece in both her readyalways cherish” in different houses, I finally realised to-wear and made-to-order collections. Julie De Libran that after all that time and experience, “I wanted to do something very intimate, after Prada, Vuitton and Rykiel… I’d and personal, and just make dresses,” actually been doing it all along anyway. So it just felt natural, explains Julie. “I feel that dresses are very special to me – the actually, to go out on my own, and do what I needed, what first piece I ever designed was a dress when I was 14 years I had worked so hard for. And I feel like it was right to do old. As a designer, a dress allows for so much interpretation it.” Taking less than three months to launch, Julie’s debut and creativity, with different fabrics and lengths and line of dresses – the focus of her label – was revealed at an volumes and silhouettes. But for me, it’s more than that.
The Gilda tunic
A dress is like a piece of music. It’s a memory of a party, or a person that you met, a moment that you’ll always cherish. Something that you can pass on, to share that story, that joy that you felt when wearing it. It’s something really special.” With a desire to create “heirloom pieces” from stocks of existing luxurious fabrics, Julie melds sustainability with collectibility, without compromising on quality. “I’m working with the best Italian mills that I have worked with for many, many years, and have built wonderful relationships with,” she says of her fabric sources. “But bearing in mind all the times I’ve visited these mills before, I didn’t know they had so many archives; warehouses literally full of fabrics either over-made in production, or ordered by a client and then cancelled because the colour didn’t work. There were all these incredibly beautiful, luxurious fabrics there, just waiting to be used.” Never really knowing what to expect with each visit, Julie says the fabric mills have added an extra element of magic to her creative process. “What I really love about those visits is that I might discover some treasure of a roll of fabric, maybe just 30 metres or so, of an amazing silk, or print or embroidery that I could make maybe a dozen dresses from. So of course, I have to have it – but when it’s gone, it’s gone. I love the idea that these dresses we make are created from something so rare, which is why I name every one of
The Charly evening dress
my designs, and number each piece. It gives each piece an identity and a story. It makes every dress even more special.” The focus on sustainability and accountability is a concept that Julie is dedicated to upholding as a new entrepreneur. “The way the world is today, championing sustainability isn’t even a question in my mind,” says Julie. “We all know about the amount of waste and pollution that the fashion industry creates, you can’t ignore it. We’re already really late in cleaning up after ourselves, so we have to be extremely active about doing something about it now.” Partnering with the famously eco-aware Matches Fashion as her brand’s exclusive e-tailer, Julie’s hope is to make people think more about the origins of the clothes they buy, and where they will end up in the future. “Being a mother as well as a designer in this industry, I feel its necessary to know how things are made, and be more responsible in how we create things. We’re making everything in Europe, and I want people to know the process, so they know how much time it takes to make their dress, how many people’s hands this garment goes through before it’s eventually worn. It’s important that people know – that future generations know – and cherish these pieces, pass them on to their children. It makes each one a treasure. Something that’s sentimental and valuable, not just another dress that hangs soulless in your closet.”
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FASHION IN FOCUS
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GIVENCHY
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Florals may not be groundbreaking, but they blossomed all over this season’s catwalks. Say it with flowers in dark and dramatic tones for an autumnal update on a spring perennial.
1. LOBOROSA at OUNASS | 2. ERDEM | 3. GANNI at MATCHES FASHION | 4. DOLCE & GABBANA | 5. VALENTINO | 6. ZIMMERMANN | 7. RANJANA KHAN at NET-A-PORTER
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THE LEATHER REPORT Real or faux, soft, buttery leather is a staple this season. As we eagerly await the cooler months, buy yours in classic, neutral tones for top-notch transitional dressing.
1. ALEXANDER WANG x BVLGARI | 2. ISABEL MARANT | 3. TOM FORD | 4. BOSS | 5. GIVENCHY | 6. HUISHAN ZHANG at THE MODIST | 7. BALLY
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Add a Midas touch to your A/W wardobe in lustrous metallics with glittering embellishments designed to be be worn in all their gilded glory. 1. JONATHAN SIMKHAI at BLOOMINGDALES-DUBAI | 2. PETAR PETROV at THE MODIST | 3.CELINE | 4. TOM FORD | 5. GUCCI | 6. PACO RABANNE at MATCHES FASHION | 7. BOTTEGA VENETA
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Bold hues reigned supreme on the catwalk, with pops of primary colour making a powerful comeback. Wear head-to-toe for maximum impact. 1. DINOSAUR DESIGNS at MATCHES FASHION | 2. ATTICO at HARVEY NICHOLS-DUBAI | 3. VALENTINO | 4. DOLCE & GABBANA | 5. GUCCI | 6. STELLA MCCARTNEY | 7. BY FAR at NET-A-PORTER
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MOJEH WOMEN
Butheina wears jacket and trousers, Rejina Pyo at Boutique 1
FIX UP, LOOK SHARP
Brains, beauty, and a knockout sense of style to top it all off – MOJEH meets the UAE-based entrepreneurs whose business acumen is as sharp as their dress sense Photography by Ausra Osipaviciute Words by Elaine Lloyd-Jones
BUTHEINA HAMED KAZIM
Hair and Make-up: Paula Goia. With special thanks to Nasab Dubai, KOA Canvas. Styling: Gemma Deeks
Co-founder, Cinema Akil “We felt there was room for a kind of cinema that engages looks every inch the culture heroine. She’s totally at ease communities and reflects their realities, asks the tougher with being her own boss, too. “The decision making and questions, makes people think about their place in the the ability to define certain conventions, define a culture of world, sparks debates, and also looks at the artists in working, shape an idea from A to Z, and be involved in every film making,” Butheina Hamed Kazim tells us. She is, aspect has its benefits. A lot of pressure, a lot of rewards and of course, talking about Cinema Akil, of which she is the a lot of responsibility too,” she muses. With a style that’s co-founder. Starting off as a nomadic cinema, travelling artfully polished and considered, she finds inspiration in around the UAE four years ago, Butheina opened her first magazines and film. “It’s not a style per se, but when I found arthouse space in Al Quoz in September 2018, feeling it was it – an article in Pitchfork (an American online magazine) the right time in the Dubai landscape called ‘Ghetto Regal’ – the concept for a permanent fixture. “I think there just clicked. It was a combination “I can feel of glamour, ostentatious flair and are a lot of places that benefit from Bollywood, I can feel what we have created, but there is street style, a ready-to-go attitude.” something very exciting about being Naturally film plays an integral part Tim Burton. A lot of in Dubai. It’s very diverse. You are in a in inspiring the way she dresses, too. my style reference place that is at the forefront of defining “I can feel Bollywood, and I can feel choices are ways of what city life is like. You see a Tim Burton, it creates an amazing repository. A lot of my reference palpable change and that’s exciting.” from film” Although she admits the path has been choices are from film,” Butheina tells Butheina Kazim challenging, enriching the culture us. Making sure that we note her scene in the UAE, her homeland, is choices are always diverse – “Some ultimately very rewarding. “Being able to show the films days it’s Fendi and some days, Nike” – Butheina’s preferred that change people’s lives, and being able to create a space working wardrobe is red lipstick, sneakers, some form that makes people from different communities in Dubai get of jeans, a statement top and big earrings. “I’m trying together and get to know each other on an equal playing to not get too caught up in power dressing and drawing field” has made the journey worthwhile, and Butheina’s from your outer skin, I believe sartorial choices inform advice is to always “try doing things, and believe your the way you feel and think, but I also feel that has to be own story and conviction.” Posing confidently in a striking drawn from the inside. I think it is our responsibility terracotta suit and her trademark red lipstick, Butheina as women to reclaim these things and reinvent them.”
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PREEYA MALIK Co-founder, The Daily Prep Co. Meet Preeya Malik, the 32-year-old Canadian co-founder of The Daily Prep Co., a healthy food company focused on providing delicious, whole, natural foods. As a modern working woman, Preeya often found it hard to maintain a healthy diet. “With a full time job, it was very difficult to find the time, let alone the energy to prepare healthy, fast convenient meals,” she explains. The Daily Prep Co. flourished from there, and is celebrating its first year in business. “I never imagined myself in the food and beverage industry,” she says, “however I have always been business-minded and fairly creative, so I do think this career combines the best of both worlds.” Preeya also happens to be a U.S licensed attorney, and runs an immigration firm in Dubai called Step Global. “Success is a direct result of what you’re willing to give,” she admits candidly. Despite her success, she’s humble and appreciative, attributes she credits to her father’s mentoring. When it comes to style, Preeya’s wardrobe has to reflect both of her careers, but she’s acutely aware that dressing well can be both powerful and empowering. “My personal style changes from day-to-day based on what I’m doing, or how I’m feeling. I think this comes from swinging between being a lawyer where I have to dress up quite a bit – I I’ve always usually wear high-waisted pants and a cute top or a Diane Von loved Victoria Furstenberg wrap dress – to working on The Daily Prep Co., where I can be in workout clothes or denim all day,” she tells Beckham’s style. us. “I think it’s very important to dress how you feel and dress It’s just so easy and for how you want to feel. When I’m laid back at work I feel more sophisticated. casual and comfortable. When I’m dressed up, I feel like I’m ready Preeya Malik to meet people and make things happen.” Preeya cites Michelle Obama as being a career-inspiration, and turns to Instagram for all matters of style. “Fozaza is amazing. I love looking at her Instagram posts and seeing what she is wearing next. I’ve also always loved Victoria Beckham’s style, post-Spice Girls. It’s just easy and sophisticated.” Favouring designers like Givenchy and Balmain for clean lines, tailoring and longevity, Preeya likes to invest in timeless pieces while still staying on-trend. “Most of my Givenchy and Balmain pieces from years ago are still in my closet and I still wear them today. I also just bought a lot of things from All Things Mochi, I love the bohemian look of their pieces.” Preeya is also tuned in to the brand’s ethical message, saying, “My sister has taught me a lot about shopping responsibly. Avoiding waste and being conscious of the production of clothing, and this is something I’m trying to nurture more.”
Make-up: Charlotte Tilbury Beauty. Hair: Instaglam
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Preeya wears blazer, skirt and camicole by Tom Ford
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I dress to reflect the kind of energy I feel like channelling. There is no consistency in my look. Ayat Toufeeq
From left: Amina wears shirt, Iris and Ink at The Outnet; Trousers, Chinti and Parker at Etoile La Boutique; Shoes, Jimmy Choo | Ayat wears shirt and trousers, Victoria Beckham at Harvey Nichols–Dubai
AMINA GRIMEN & AYAT TOUFEEQ Co-founders, Powder.ae “Find what works for you. This is what we hope to achieve with while Amina confesses to wearing a lot of denim and pieces Powder.ae, in that in making it inclusive there is something that you can mix and match. Obviously when it comes to for everyone. You just have to find it,” says Norwegian-Somali beauty, both girls are experts and are adept at adding a red Amina Grimen on her business mantra. And it’s an ethos lip, or a bold brow as the finishing touch to a look. They also that has obviously proved successful. The 35-year-old is both recognise how much impact what you wear can have co-founder of Powder, an online retail destination for beauty upon how you feel, and how you want to project yourself, and skincare, offering unbiased advice. “We provide insights too. “It’s in how much of an effort you are making, rather on all things beauty through an informative blog and editor’s than your specific style. Zero effort, unless I genuinely notes on each product, so you can make the right choice for have zero time, probably means that I’m not going to be your skincare and hair care needs.” Amina started Powder feeling positive, creative or energised, so even when I’m with Ayat Toufeeq, 32, nearly two years ago. “We started it working at home, I always make an effort to get dressed,” because we found it difficult to shop for our favourite beauty says Ayat. “You have to dress for the job you want, not the brands online and realised there was a job you have,” Amina adds. “Working on gap in the market when it comes to the Powder, I like to wake up in the morning “I always make an accessibility of high-quality skincare and dress up for work as it gives me effort to get dressed. and beauty products,” she says. Britisha boost of confidence.” Amina’s new You have to dress for season wish list includes a Cloud Iraqi Ayat worked in security and bag from Daniel Lee’s collection for management consulting, while Amina the job you want, not had been working in communications Bottega Veneta, and she cites New York the job you have.” before the business was borne out of label Deveaux as one of her favourites Amina Grimen their shared desire to fulfil a personal – it recently launched womenswear under the creative direction need. The pair are equally as in-sync when it comes to their style ethos. Although there are of former street-style photographer Tommy Ton obvious nuances, the ideology is the same. “I dress to reflect – “His clothes are designed to be worn for years.” the kind of energy I feel like channelling. I can be in a She also looks up to brands like Victoria Beckham, feminine tea dress one day, a formal jumpsuit the next, and Stella McCartney and Carolina Herrera. Ayat has in a pair of ripped jeans and a faded band T-shirt the day recently refined the way she shops, avoiding fast after – there is no consistency in my look,” admits Ayat. fashion and opting for outfits that she’ll wear more Amina’s style is equally unpredictable, “Perhaps a cross than once. “I’d like an Orseund Iris blouse, everything between street and casual,” she muses. “It’s constantly at Loewe and an Equipment crepe wrap dress. I also evolving and pretty eclectic.” Ayat favours high-waisted like Velvet by Graham and Spencer, for comfortable, silhouettes that are “flattering, elegant and comfortable”, well-made, but not boring, clothes in quality fabrics.”
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REEM KANJ Co-founder, Ego & East Lebanese sisters Reem and Natalya Kanj co-founded Ego & East – a premier talent agency representing some of the most exciting names on YouTube and Instagram in the MENA region, Europe and the US – in 2016. Natalya and Reem’s experience as international influencers, combined with Natalya’s hands-on PR experience working with luxury global brands, made the venture a natural progression for the siblings. “We wanted to create an agency in line with the brand new requirements of a buzzing industry,” explained 32-yearold Reem. “Our ethos has always been to create a family feel and strong support system for all our names.” When it comes to dressing for success, Reem has had plenty of experience. Working as a blogger for eight years has given her ample insight into fashion, and the outside world’s perception of and responses to it. One look at the moodboard that is her Instagram feed reveals an enviable luxurious but relaxed aesthetic. “Comfort is my priority, and my style is completely mood-dependent,” she says. While she admits to favouring jeans and T-shirts most of the time, with a vintage pair of Levi 501s being her signature look, she also knows how to ramp it up. “I love the Materiel Tbilisi suit I’m wearing, I love the designer in general, and this is a I feel good in great, modern take on a power suit,” she says. “I feel good in a a power suit, power suit, but I also know empowerment comes from within.” but I also know As well as stocking her undoubtedly burgeoning wardrobe, Reem also likes to nourish her mind. “I love The Power of Now,” empowerment she tells us of the best-selling self-help book by Eckhart Tolle, comes from within. which encourages readers to live in the now, and make the most Reem Kanj out if it. Setting up a business isn’t without its challenges, but a pragmatic approach keeps both Reem and Natalya balanced. “Every day you are faced with challenges, but that’s part of being an entrepreneur. I like going for what I want, and believe that failure isn’t a negative, just another learning curve.” For boardroom inspiration, Reem looks to the likes of Emily Weiss – founder of cosmetics company Glossier – and Natalie Massenet, while her sartorially-focused eye is on Hailey Bieber’s very ‘street’ sense of style. As far as designers go, Reem’s approach is considered rather than frivolous. “I love Magda Butrym, Orseund Iris, by FAR, and what Rihanna is doing. Magda is so luxe, Orseund is simple and classic and by FAR is understated and minimal. I love well-made pieces that aren’t too flashy. Alexander Wang is also a go-to for me.” Testament to her style, at the top of her wish list for this season is a pair of Marni boots, but while fashion can sometimes project a prickly exterior, Reem’s ethos is to “Work hard, be nice to people.” Something we can all relate to.
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Reem wears suit by Materiel Tbilisi at Harvey Nichols–Dubai
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Arianna wears Balenciaga blazer, Saint Laurent shoes and Uterque earrings
ARIANNA POSENATO Co-founder, Maiolica.ae A vision of confidence in cobalt blue Balenciaga, Arianna who managed to disrupt traditional luxury by empowering Posenato is the Italian 35-year-old co-founder and head the female consumer.” As for style, that’s something of operations at Maiolica.ae – a Dubai-based e-commerce that has been passed down through the generations. start-up selling handmade homewear inspired by all “My grandma is a fashion addict, she has always been things Mediterranean. Sourcing and curating an edit my fashion mentor and still is today at 90 years old. She of authentic boutique brands from Italy, Portugal, and often says, ‘Always have a gala gown in your wardrobe, other Mediterranean countries, having travelled the world and hide a red lipstick behind the console at home. You personally selecting products from aspirational artisans never know who’s knocking at your door!’” For Arianna, and finding beautiful and unique homewares, it should fashion’s appeal is in its diversity. “I love how fashion can come as no surprise that Arianna be heterogeneous, yet always fresh has a refined sense of style. Having and exciting.” She says, admitting her “I truly consider own style leans towards a more sleek recently celebrated the platform’s one Tamara Mellon a and contemporary aesthetic. Arianna year anniversary with her business partner, Marianna Piccolo, Arianna credits Racil and Peter Pilotto as business icon who describes her business as going well her go-to designers for well-tailored managed to disrupt beyond her expectations. “I love design blazers, as well as Fozaza. When it traditional luxury comes to accessorizing, she can be in all its forms, whether fashion, more experimental. “I like all the interiors or arts, and somehow always by empowering the knew I would have ended up working colourful, retro-style hairbands, too, female consumer.” for an inspirational, design-related and lots of jewellery. I like to mix and Arianna Posenato match luxury brands with affordable project,” she tells us. Not one to let an opportunity pass, Arianna constantly fashion or vintage finds.” As well as tunes in to the industry around her, looking to podcasts and enjoying the convenience of online shopping she also says people to stay motivated and up-to-date. “I like to follow she loves the physical experience of “strolling, looking in daily videos and podcasts from Italian entrepreneur Marco store windows, and actually shopping in-store. “When Montemagno,” she says. “I believe people have to find it comes to personal style icons, actress Blake Lively their own path, but I really admire the late Franca Sozzani is top of her list. “She can be extravagant in Christian and Tamara Mellon, the co-founder and former creative Louboutin pumps, or feminine in a Gatsby-inspired suit, director of Jimmy Choo. She very much believes in female but always classy,” she says. Concluding with the famous entrepreneurship, and I truly consider her a business icon Coco Chanel quote, “Fashion changes, but style endures.”
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MOJEH TALKING POINT
OVERWORKED AND UNDERWHELMED As the term ‘burnout’ becomes a permanent fixture in workplace vocabulary, we consider the social, technological and economic shifts contributing to unprecedented levels of professional pressure
Words by Laura Beaney
Photography: Leny Guetta
T
he working world is rapidly changing. And while carving out a successful career has remained a broad goal for generations of employees, the measure of what constitutes ‘success’ is fluid. Stateside, in the post-war period of the 1950s, the American Dream gained momentum, where job stability paired with a manicured home and a housewife to match were priorities for many. The women’s liberation movement of the 1970s helped the career woman of the eighties to flourish, while the so-called ‘Yuppy’ “greed is good” mantra perpetuated by Wall Street stockbrokers laid the foundations for our current age of inequality and the normalisation of corporate gluttony. Indeed, inequality.org reported that since 1979, the “before-tax incomes of the top one per cent of American households have increased more than seven times faster than the bottom 20 per cent.” Despite making up a large part of today’s workforce, millennials have found themselves branded as ‘work-shy’ by those who came before them, but it’s a stereotype that doesn’t hold up. Tech billionaires are a new breed, famed for working round the clock, while entrepreneurship has reached celebrity-like status, reflected in our unprecedented interest in figures like Mark Zuckerberg, Huda Kattan and Sophia Amoruso. In tune with technology and accustomed to unpredictable social changes, millennials are adaptable and ambitious, proposing a sophisticated work ethic. Since the early Noughties we’ve increasingly been advised to “Do what you love.” It seems it’s no longer enough for us to work hard and be good at it – the best employees are expected to “love” it at the same time. Indeed, high-minded messaging has become commonplace in the corporate world. Social media feeds are populated with peppy statuses like “It’s a
privilege to be able to wake up early and hustle” by Instagram’s @Before5am handle; Dropbox’s mission statement claims it’s there to “unleash the world’s creative energy by designing a more enlightened way of working”, while AirBnB’s new logo, ‘Bélo’, signifies a “universal symbol of belonging.” In 2019, work has seemingly reached a spiritual state. Change is happening across the board, from mental to structural shifts, with remote working and playful office environments designed to invoke our inner genius while screaming that all this should be ‘fun!’ But it’s also an era of ‘bio-hacking’, where employees seek everything from bulletproof coffee to prescription medication to boost their productivity, positioning themselves as a resource that’s there to be maximised. Indeed, a 2016 Bloomberg interview with one of Google’s first, and most notorious employees, former Yahoo! CEO, Marissa Mayer, whose career started at the company as a code writer in 1999, revealed that the 130-hour working week was possible “if you’re strategic about when you sleep, when you shower, and how often you go to the bathroom.” Her words typify a culture that prizes ambition not just as a vehicle to reach success, but as a lifestyle choice. “I don’t think there’s anything wrong with wanting to love your job and feel fulfilled by it,” says 33-year-old Maya Itani, the Lebanese managing director of Itani & Company Marketing Consultants, and co-president of Ellevate’s Dubai Chapter. “However, I think the issue is that in modern society we’re conditioned to believe that we can only find fulfillment at work, and if we don’t, we’re failures.” For many, this pressure to perform is overwhelming. “Women are told they can have it all, and that if they’re more organised, wake up earlier, or just try harder then they can be model employees, Pinterest-worthy
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The truth is, you can’t have it all – something’s got to give, and unfortunately, it’s usually a woman’s mental health. Maya Itani
wives, super fit, and have an active social life. The truth is, you can’t have it all – something’s got to give, and unfortunately it’s usually women’s mental health,” she adds. Today’s workers were taught that good grades and overachievement would equal financial stability and emotional fulfilment, but there’s a disconnect. A 2019 report conducted by the Office for National Statistics in the UK found that more than a third of graduates had more education than was required for the job they were doing, while in America, wages of workers have “flat-lined.” inequality.org’s study states that while US salaries increased just 23 per cent between 1979 to 2017, worker productivity increased by 138 per cent during the same period. This increase in talent and decline in opportunities has resulted in a climate of hyper-competitiveness and fear. “I come from a highly-charged working environment, where if you’re seen to leave early it’s a negative,” says Monica Hashemi, an Iranian, Dubai-based legal advisor. “Having a ‘crazy work schedule’
and ‘buzzing on the adrenaline’ of all-nighters is almost a badge of honour, while the lines between personal and professional time are blurred, as we’re expected to socialise with a smile as part of the industry.” A reflection of these increasing pressures and their subsequent impact on mental health, in May 2019, the World Health Organization announced that ‘burnout’ should now only be understood as being a work-related concern. The WHO upgraded burnout from a “state” of exhaustion to a “syndrome” and a product of “chronic workplace stress.” This reclassification puts into question the impact of our cultural expectation that work should be “enjoyable” at all times. Is it holding individuals back from prioritising their mental health in favour of keeping face? “Burnout is a state of mental and physical exhaustion that is usually characterised as having an increased cynicism, disconnect and reduced feelings of accomplishment and satisfaction at work,” explains
Dr. Saliha Afridi, PsyD clinical psychologist and managing and where society and media tell women they can and should director of The LightHouse Clinic in Dubai. “It can look like ‘have it all’. But women often have a greater struggle with the depression, because it exhibits similar symptoms. However prospect of balancing work-life with familial expectations. ‘burnout’ is when a person has arrived at this place, specifically “I always tell my female patients, if you’re going to have a as a result of their work. It’s beyond sadness or anxiety — it’s family and work, you have to really have a Spartan mentality apathy,” she continues. Chronic stress and burnout have when it comes to self-care,” says Dr Saliha. “We are not serious physical implications. “The body will typically start infinite beings. We have a certain amount of life force, and to tell you that something is wrong by giving any one or a when we give too much of ourselves in one part of our life, number of signals that range from headaches to low immunity, mentally or physically, we aren’t giving enough to the others.” fatigue, hair loss, loss of libido, and infertility,” says Dr. Saliha. So how does self-care look in 2019? Taking a break from “When people ignore these signals, the ailments escalate technology and cultivating a healthy relationship with one’s resulting in heart disease, high blood pressure, diabetes, phone is a starting point that’s achievable for most. “Set and even cancer.” boundaries on when you respond to your emails and Whatsapp Many clients of The Lighthouse Clinic are entrepreneurs messages, and limit the hours spent on social media. Anytime that dedicate too much energy to their project of passion, you’re on your phone, you’re not ‘in the moment’ and that or ambitious employees striving to ‘make partner’ or get a can result in increased feelings of depersonalisation over promotion – all whilst neglecting the things that contribute to time,” says Dr. Saliha. “Tend to your physical body – eat from their wellbeing. “There’s also those who don’t understand their the earth, drink plenty of water, exercise, and have a sleep limits,” says Dr. Saliha. “People ritual which is thought through and compare themselves to others – effective. It’s about ‘filling your cup’ ‘what he can do and what she can on a continual basis, not just once a “It can look like do’ – but don’t look at their own year when you go on holiday. Build in depression. But ‘burnout’ capacity. Everyone has different activities throughout the week with occurs specifically as a circumstances and life demands friends, family and yourself that that pose limitations.” increase positive emotions.” result of a person’s work. The prevalence of burnout runs The expert advice is hardly It’s beyond sadness or deeper than toxic working groundbreaking, but in the era of anxiety – it’s apathy” cultures and demanding bosses, “doing what you love”, stepping with societal shifts alongside away from your start-up or work Dr. Saliha Afridi advancements in technology and presentation for even just a few hours modes of communication adding may come with the burden of guilt. new weight to working life. In regions like the Middle East, “Individuals who have ambition, drive and purpose can often it’s typical for a person to be required to tend to multiple cities find themselves burnt out because they were all-consumed by and countries as part of their role. “Travelling frequently their work,” says Dr. Saliha. “Remember, too much of a good impacts people’s eating, sleeping and exercise habits, which thing can also result in burnout.” What might sound radical, over time can result in mental and physical exhaustion,” however, is the notion that work doesn’t necessarily even have explains Dr. Saliha. And the UAE’s position in the “middle” to factor in our happiness. We are complex beings, capable of the world also poses its own unique set of problems, with of deriving fulfilment from so many different sources and workers having to manage calls and meetings at unpredictable activities, but it’s down to the individual to negotiate their hours to accommodate Eastern and Western time zones and measures of happiness and success accordingly. “You can have conflicting working weeks. a perfectly decent job that doesn’t exactly light your fire, but It’s beneficial to bring into question our motivations for our then find your fulfillment elsewhere,” suggests Maya Itani. actions. Will the 130 hour working week bring us happiness, or “I was once asked what my definition of success is, and my balance? Most likely it will not. Wealth and celebrity perhaps, response was: ‘Success is waking up every day to a life I’m but neither one is guaranteed. We’re faced with a working excited about.’ Find what excites you, and accept the fact that world where education doesn’t necessarily mean opportunity, it may not actually be work.”
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BAD R O M A N C E
Louis Vuitton’s AW19 collection fuses dark florals with eighties silhouettes for a dramatic take on streetwear
Photographed by Greg Adamski Styled by Gemma Deeks
Kimono, belt and platform derby shoes, LOUIS VUITTON
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Black top with plaid detailing, zipped trousers and belt, LOUIS VUITTON
Cropped perfecto jacket, floral print skirt and platform derby shoes, LOUIS VUITTON
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Denim jumpsuit, belt bag and platform derby shoes, LOUIS VUITTON
Leather jacket, ruffled dress, ankle boots and lipstick case, LOUIS VUITTON
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Ruffled floral print blouse, zipped trousers, belt and speedy teddy bag, LOUIS VUITTON
Kimono, roll-neck top and MM teddy bumbag, LOUIS VUITTON | Model: Yana at Signature Elements | Hair and Make-up: Nadine Elias
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Suit, GUCCI | Glasses, FENDI at MATCHES FASHION | Tights, WOLFORD
TAKING CARE OF BUSINESS The power suit swaggers into AW19, proving this fresh take on an eighties classic elbows aside the rules Photographed by Andrew Yee Styled by Rocky
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Coat, jackets, skirt and blouse, BURBERRY
Suit and jacket, ROLAND MOURET | Black leather boots, GRENSON | Rings, SLIM BARRETT
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White sweater, HERMÈS | Suit, MUGLER | Earrings and rings, SLIM BARRETT
Skirt, sweater, jacket, coat and boots, MAX MARA | Tights, WOLFORD
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Dress, CHANEL
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This page: Suit, sweater and hat, TOM FORD | Boots, CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN | Rings, SLIM BARRETT | Opposite page: Coat, CHLOÉ | Choker, SLIM BARRETT
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Skirt, sweater, jacket and belt, LOUIS VUITTON | Tights, WOLFORD
Dress, DAVID KOMA | Glasses, BALENCIAGA at MATCHES FASHION | Tights, WOOLFORD | Boots, STELLA MCCARTNEY | Model: Nayara Oliveira at Established Models London | Make-up: Marco Antonio using MAC COSMETICS | Hair Stylist: Matthew Gavin | Photographer’s Assistant: David Hoolbrook | Digital Operator: Andreas Klassen
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NEW NOSTALGIA Winter collections usher in smart layers in a soft colour palette with a touch of retro influence
Photographed by Raissa Biscotti Styled by Alessandra Mastantuoni
Coat, MONCLER x SIMONE ROCHA
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Sweater, MAX MARA | Trousers, CHANEL | Shoes, FENDI | Mono earring, ROSANTICA
Coat, BOTTEGA VENETA | Earrings, ROSANTICA
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Dress, boots and earrings, CHLOÉ
Dress, AVAVAV FIRENZE
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Ring, ROSANTICA
Dress and coat, HERMÉS | Shoes, AVAVAV FIRENZE
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Top, skirt and earrings, GIVENCHY
Coat, MONCLER x SIMONE ROCHA
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Earrings, CHLOÉ
Dress, GUCCI | Shoes, BOTTEGA VENETA | Model: Shahd Rezkana at The Fabbrica | Stylist’s Assistants: Giorgia Papa and Silvia I | Hair and Make-up: Bianca Del Giudice
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JEWELLERY EDIT
GOLD RUSH Introducing the new Serpenti Seddutori watch styles from Bvlgari, to the Middle Eastern jewellery designers you need to know now, MOJEH’s jewellery edit strikes gold this October
Serpenti Seduttori watch in pink gold with diamonds, BVLGARI
The Serpenti Seduttori bracelet has been updated with hexaganol links designed to replicate the Serpenti scale motif
OFF THE SCALE Making its debut at Baselworld 2019, with the introduction of three new styles launched during London Fashion Week last month, the Serpenti Seduttori watch is the Roman jewellers’ most important timepiece to date. Having taken on many iterations over the years since it was first created in the late 1940s, the Serpenti watch is an icon of Bulgari, and the Seduttori collection is representative of the seamless way the house has stayed
Editor: Natascha Hawke. Photography: Tina Patni. Styling: Stuart Robertson
true to its traditions while continually working to remain at the forefront of design and contemporary style. Taking its inspiration from the iconic Serpenti Tubogas watch collection, with its snaking bracelet, the Seduttori displays the same drop-shaped watch head that is instantly recognisable as Bulgari, but designed with the modern woman in mind, the case is slimmer than ever, so as to sit almost unnoticed on its wearer’s wrist. The addition of a reinterpreted, more flexible bracelet, replicating the sleek hexagonal Serpenti scale motif, is a fuss-free contemporary touch, more wearable than the Tubogas’ spiral, and timeless in its aesthetic – an heirloom piece if ever there was. Now available in steel, steel with rose gold bezel and steel with rose gold and diamonds, joining the rose, yellow and whitegold timepieces launched previously, the Seduttori symbolises a stylish new chapter to Bulgari’s heritage.
From left: Serpenti Seduttori watch in pink gold; Serpenti Seduttori watch in steel and pink gold; Serpenti Seduttori full pavé diamonds watch in pink gold, all BVLGARI
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FABERGÉ FEELS Inspired by the Fauvist artists’ love of colour and painterly qualities, the Emotion Multi-coloured Crossover ring from Fabergé’s Emotion Collection showcases the intense colour of the world’s most precious gemstones sourced from Gemfields mines – including diamonds, rubies, emeralds, and orange, yellow, blue and pink sapphires. Jewellery designer Noor Fares in her home studio
5 MINUTES WITH... NOOR FARES The Lebanese designer, 33, is known for her colourful, eclectic designs that take a spiritual approach to creating fine jewellery What inspired the latest collection? Padma, an extension of the Prana collection, is derived from the Sanskrit word “lotus”, often referred to as the “sacred flower”. Padma is one of the most ancient symbols of our planet – many of the chakra symbols draw on the lotus as a representation of purity and divine beauty. What materials did you work with? I love designing with new materials. This experimentation part is very fulfilling. With this new collection I have experimented with the use of rosewood, muzo emerald, amaranth garnet, amethyst, ruby and abalone, amongst others. What are your favourite pieces in the Padma collection? The Madhya carved earrings because of the carving’s intricacy, the reinterpretation of the Lotus’ petals, and the striking pavé. Then, I would say the bespoke Sahasrara pendant, which won a Couture Design award 2019 under the Coloured Gemstones below $20,000 category. Both pieces are hand-carved. How does this collection differ from the previous? This new collection is in the same spirit of the previous one: Prana. This new but intertwining chapter includes bold geometric patterns, coloured stones and unique crystal pendants as well as one-of-a-kind pieces that are related to each of the seven chakras. What is your design process? I always start the process by creating a moodboard in order to gather all my ideas that comes from travelling, exhibitions, books etc. How many collections are you designing a year? I design one collection per year with some collaborative projects and new colourways of some core pieces. Designing a whole new collection takes me a year, but it usually takes me three to four months to collect ideas, create moodboards and tech sheets. How has your aesthetic developed? My aesthetic and designs have become more intricate and elaborate throughout the years, focusing more on craftsmanship and using more innovative techniques. What has been your
Bespoke Sahasrara Pendant, NOOR FARES Hamsa earrings and necklace, HAK THE LABEL
career highlight to date? So far, graduating from Central Saint Martins with a Masters in
ONE TO WATCH: HAKIMA AL SAID
Design and winning the Couture Design award
Launched in 2018, HAK The Label by Hakima Al Said brings
2019. What does the future look like for Noor
us delicate gold pieces inspired by cultural symbolism from
Fares? In 10 years from now, I would love to have
the many places she has lived, including geometric shapes
my first flagship store in London, and continue
and Hamsas favoured by the Middle East. Beautiful in
to design collections that inspire people.
their simplicity, her of-the-moment Kindred Collection is
Noorfares.com
a smart first investment. Hakthelabel.com
OFF THE CUFF Elevate your ear with this showstopping Python cuff from Akillis. One of the new wave of jewellery designers to venture into the contemporary realm of high fashion fine jewellery, Caroline Gaspard balances luxury and left field with aplomb. Python ear cuff in pink gold with diamonds, AKILLIS
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MOVE WITH MESSIKA With Kate Moss, Joan Smalls and Sylvia Hoeks as Messika’s contemporary heroines for autumn 2019, the Lucky Move pieces have also been updated to reflect this more rock ‘n’ roll aesthetic. Bigger, bolder and packed with personality, the collection is also available in pink gold, yellow gold and black gold. Lucky Move MM Pavé necklace in white gold with diamonds, MESSIKA
18k gold and diamond hoop earrings, AZLEE
18k gold hoop earrings, AURATE
18k gold hoop earrings, PATCHARAVIPA
DOING THE ROUNDS Gold hoops are having a revival, but rather than last season’s oversized, say hello to smaller hoops worn in multiple piercings to create a modern bohemian look that’s perfectly on-point.
AURATE
BOUCHERON
From top: Plume de Paon ring in white gold with diamonds; Plume de Paon earrings in white gold with diamonds, BOUCHERON
PRETTY PLUMES 160 years ago, inspired by the intricate beauty of a peacock’s feather, Frédéric Boucheron created his first Plume de Paon collection. Today, Boucheron introduces a new set of elegant Plume de Paon pieces encompassing statement earrings, rings and necklaces in pink, yellow and white gold, set with morganite and diamonds, both feminine and traditional pieces that will stand the test of time.
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Pop chain in rose gold and turquoise, VHERNIER
CHAIN REACTION The new Pop Collection from Italian jeweller Vhernier injects colour into its classic chain with the use of black kogolong, coral and turquoise for a contemporary touch.
IN FOCUS: NOSHEEN BAKHSH The Dubai-based, Saudi designer of Sheen Fine Jewelry fuses Middle Eastern inspiration with benevolence in her thought-provoking pieces How did your label come to be? Sheen was originally a branding project in university in 2009. We had to come up with a company name and business concept. I thought about my two passions and what I’d imagined my ‘perfect job’ to be: a combination of design (an outlet for my creativity) and humanity (doing something to giveback). That is exactly what the founding roots of Sheen are today. With every piece purchased, I donate to a selected cause. What has inspired the Kenza collection? Like all my narrative collections, the inspiration is always a place, region or culture. This one is especially close to my heart because its dedicated to female empowerment in the region and the advancement of gender equality, especially in Saudi Arabia. Which Tambour Horizon Monogram Eclipse, LOUIS VUITTON
materials are at the core? Kenza is designed in 18k gold and diamond, as are most of my collections. I did experiment with and introduce enameling this time and I love it because you can get really specific and creative with the colouring. This collection also features emeralds, which I haven’t used much of in the past. Would you say you
FRESH FACES Louis Vuitton introduces four new digital watch face designs to its collection of Tambour Horizon watches, this season with neon Monogram flowers and electric initials.
have a signature? I subconsciously design in organic shapes that are intricate and always aligned symmetrically. This collection, however, introduces more rigid geometric shapes because traditional jewellery from the Gulf uses a lot of squares and triangles. The end result was designs that incorporate both organic shapes – to stay true to my personal style – and geometric shapes to display the influence of heritage designs. In general, I tend to always put long-chained necklaces in every collection. I feel that they’re versatile and can go with both western and Arabian clothing more easily. Does your heritage inspire you? Yes, definitely. My origin is Kashmiri, my nationality is Saudi. I feel that both of these play a strong influence in my identity. I would best describe myself as a ‘Third Culture Kid’ and perhaps that is why I am so fascinated with different cultures, their traditions and their arts and crafts. All my designs are either inspired by heritage pieces, the traditional arts and crafts of a place or the flora of
Rose Dior Pop ring in white and pink gold with diamonds, pink sapphire and pink lacquer, DIOR JEWELRY
the region. What part of what you do fulfils you the most? Firstly, seeing my vision coming to life. The feeling of seeing and holding a finished product is so satisfying! Secondly, the fact that we are changing lives, even at a small scale, with every
BLOOMIN’ LOVELY
purchase. It is so heartwarming to hear
Designed by Victoire de Castellane for Dior Jewelry’s 20th
from the causes/organizations donated to,
anniversary, the Rose Dior Pop collection presents the
such as UNHCR, and seeing the impact
signature bloom in a kalaeidoscope of colours.
Cactus earrings, SHEEN FINE JEWELRY
of donations. Sheen.ae
FEELING FRUITY The Berry collection from David Morris encompasses sautoir necklaces, earrings and stackable rings and bracelets embellished with baubles in mouthwatering shades of turquoise, pink and pearl that add perfect little pops of colour to your jewellery repertoire. Berry sautoir necklace and Berry tassel pompom in rose gold with turquoise, akoya pearls, white diamonds and pink sapphires, DAVID MORRIS at THE DUBAI MALL
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MOJEH JEWELLERY
HEAVEN SENT The new Les Ciels de Chaumet high jewellery collection is a constellation of celestial diamond and precious gemstone pieces fit for a deity
Envol earrings in white and yellow gold with garnets, yellow and green sapphires, and diamonds, CHAUMET
Lueurs d’Orage transformable necklace in white and yellow gold with Imperial topaz, spinels, morganites, sapphires and diamonds, CHAUMET
Lueurs d’Orage earrings in white and yellow gold with Imperial topazes, morganites, sapphires and diamonds, CHAUMET
Étoiles Étoiles earrings in white gold with diamonds, CHAUMET
Étoiles Étoiles tiara in white gold with diamonds, CHAUMET
Words: Jenna Calvert
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t the heart of every piece created by Chaumet is a poetic narrative rich in symbolism and sentiment. For Les Ciels de Chaumet, the maison’s latest high jewellery collection, storied skies are reimagined in jewels that form constellations of their own: necklaces drop into swirling sunbeams, tiaras twist into shooting stars and earrings turn to feathers in flight. Saturated in a palette of sunset shades and cosmic colours, the collection references abstract skies depicted in art; from J. M. W. Turner’s turbulent horizon to Vincent van Gogh’s sun-soaked scene and poet Gérard de Nerval’s “sky of azure and light.” Art and nature are entwined in elegant silhouettes and fluid lines that seamlessly move into gem-coated crescent moons, solar spheres and bird-inspired baubles. Divided into a four-part story, Les Ciels de Chaumet encompasses the sky in all its enchanting states. The first
chapter, Les Fulgurances du Ciel, is an ode to the stars with shining stones set in comet clusters. Les Couleurs du Soleil is dedicated to the ever-changing celestial colour spectrum – from fireball orange and Tuscan sun to amethyst dusk and glittering midnight blue – orbs, spinels and gems adorned in every hue. A phase of illumination, Les Caprices du Ciel, embodies a streak of lighting in the landscape or a ray slipping through a stormy cloud, a momentary piece of magic recreated in elegant sapphires, topaz and tanzanite. For Les Habitants du Ciel, the closing chapter, migratory birds are painted in green tsavorite garnets from Africa, with hints of diamonds and yellow sapphires to highlight the splendor of the sky’s soaring inhabitants. Fringe falling earrings, bejeweled brooches and pendant necklaces draped in powerful poetry celebrate the blue yonder above, with the many motifs of the firmament masterfully embedded in the Les Ciels de Chaumet collection.
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DARE TO BE DIFFERENT Magnitude by Cartier pairs precious stones in unexpected combinations to create a high jewellery collection like no other Photographed by Andrew Yee Styled by Natascha Hawke
Aphelie necklace and earrings in pink gold with morganite, coral, onyx and diamonds, CARTIER MAGNITUDE HIGH JEWELLERY | Dress, MARY KATRANTZOU
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This page: Soreli necklace in white gold with rutilated quartz and diamonds, CARTIER MAGNITUDE HIGH JEWELLERY | Dress, BOTTEGA VENETA | Opposite page: Kiruna necklace and earrings in white gold with Australian opals, Colombian emerald and lapis lazuli, CARTIER MAGNITUDE HIGH JEWELLERY | Dress, ATTICO
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This page: Theia necklace and earrings in platinum with rock crystal and Colombian emeralds, CARTIER MAGNITUDE HIGH JEWELLERY | Jacket, ATTICO | Opposite page: Zemia earrings in white gold with spessartite garnets and Madagascar sapphires, CARTIER MAGNITUDE HIGH JEWELLERY| Dress, DUNDAS at MATCHES FASHION
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Hemera earrings in white gold, with Ceylon sapphires, yellow and white diamonds, CARTIER MAGNITUDE HIGH JEWELLERY | Dress, ATTICO
Yuma necklace and earrings in platinum with yellow diamonds, CARTIER MAGNITUDE HIGH JEWELLERY | Dress, MSGM
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Equinoxe earrings and ring in yellow gold with sapphires, lapis lazuli and diamonds, CARTIER MAGNITUDE HIGH JEWELLERY | Dress, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN | Model: Gabi Devitry at Premium Models | Styling: Natascha Hawke | Stylist’s Assistant: Lottie Franklin | Make-up Artist: Marco Antonio | Hair Stylist: Brady Lea at The Only Agency | Photographer’s Assistant: David Holbrook | Digital Tech: Andreas Klassen
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Feminine Charm Delicate jewellery is the modern woman’s go-to, slipping seamlessly between day and night
Photographed by Chantelle Dosser Styled by Anna Klein
Rose Des Vents necklace, DIOR FINE JEWELLERY
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Rose Dior Pré Catelan earrings, DIOR FINE JEWELLERY
Rose Des Vents bracelet, DIOR FINE JEWELLERY
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Rose Des Vents ring, DIOR FINE JEWELLERY
Gem Dior Bleu Outremer sapphire earrings, DIOR HIGH JEWELLERY
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Rose Des Vents ring, DIOR FINE JEWELLERY
Rose Des Vents bracelet, DIOR FINE JEWELLERY
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This page and opposite: My Dior earrings, DIOR FINE JEWELLERY
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Bois De Rose earrings, DIOR FINE JEWELLERY
Dior Mitza Leopard Paw ring, DIOR HIGH JEWELLERY
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Rose Des Vents Rose Céleste Medallion necklace, DIOR FINE JEWELLERY
Archi Dior Diorama earrings, DIOR FINE JEWELLERY | Model: Karime Bribiesca at Women Management | Stylist: Anna Klein | Hair: Annesofie Begtrup at Agency TBP using Bumble and Bumble | Make-up: June Sawyer at Agence Aurelien | Photographer’s assistant: Olivier Colairo | Digital tech: Chad MacDonald | Stylist’s assistant: Agnes Gustafsson | Production: GD Company | With thanks to Petra at Hotel Amour Paris
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A CUT ABOVE Autumn’s fresh take on tailoring
SUBSCRIBE TO MOJEH MEN MAGAZINE HAVE THE VERY BEST IN STYLE DELIVERED DIRECTLY TO YOU. Call or email us at +971 4 553 9049 and subs@mojeh.com
Photography: Tina Patni. Styling: Stuart Roberston. Editor: Gemma Deeks
BEAUTY EDIT
BEAUTY NEWS
From new skincare launches to gorgeous new scents, it’s time to indulge in the best of beauty Clockwise from top: Water Stain in Wet Vermillion, YSL BEAUTY | Lip Magnet Freeze in Ruby, GIORGIO ARMANI BEAUTY | L’Absolu Rouge Drama Matte in Adoration, LANCÔME | Ultra Slim Refillable Lipstick in Desire, HOURGLASS
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Behind the scenes of YSL’s campaign shoot for their latest women’s fragrance, Libre, with the brand’s newest ambassador, multi-award winning singer, Dua Lipa
DUA LIPA’S NEW RULES The face of YSL’s latest fragrance, Libre, multi-award-winning singer Dua Lipa reveals the life lessons learned, and rules she lives by, to MOJEH What did you know about YSL before you became the face of Libre? I knew about YSL first and foremost because of its fashion. Yves St. Laurent changed the way that women dress, gave them a choice – to choose whether they want to wear something with more attitude or be more elegant; or even be elegant with an attitude at the same time in a gorgeous dress or a classic YSL tux. Back then, it allowed women to feel powerful and confident, and that message is even more relevant today. What do you like about the name of the fragrance? To be free is something that we all need to be reminded of, it’s something that we all deserve. The name really stands out, and fits well with the amazing legacy of YSL. I feel proud to be part of this fragrance, because “to be free” is what I stand for. For women in 2019, it’s such a big part of who we are – we just want to live our lives the way we feel we deserve to. And that’s why I think the fragrance is such an amazing way to introduce this concept to the worlds of fashion and music, and make it really resonate with people. What should we let go of in order to live fully and freely? It’s important to not be scared by the things we sometimes experience in life, but instead to allow ourselves to fully partake in everything. Although sometimes it can
be tempting to live your life on auto-pilot, it’s important to appreciate and be grateful for the things we get to do on a daily basis. What does it mean to be successful today? There are so many things I’ve achieved, so many milestones I’ve hit that I once dreamed about, but I feel like I have so much more to do, and so much more to give, that it pushes me to work a lot harder, to be better, to do more. Finally being at a stage where I have discovered what’s possible makes me more curious to know what else could be on the horizon. What do you try to preserve that might be affected by your huge success? My authenticity. Knowing who I am and what I believe in. I never like to compromise on things that feel true to me. I have a clear idea of the way I see myself and what I want to do in my career and because I have that, although I am still learning, I am able to make certain decisions without any regrets and to know what’s good for me in what part of my life and what isn’t. As a singer, what message would you like to give to your fans? I’d like to inspire them to be fearless, to be bold, to never take no for an answer, to always follow their dreams and… to be nice. What does it mean to be free for any woman in 2019? It goes without saying. We live life by our own rules.
FELINE FLICK Perfect your cat eye with the latest liquid eyeliners on the market, from water-resistant wonders to superpigmented, smudge-proof superstars. From top: Voyeur Waterproof Liquid Liner, HOURGLASS | Feline Flick Eyeliner Pen, CHARLOTTE TILBURY | Diorshow On Stage Liner, DIOR BEAUTY | Life Liner Duo Pencil & Liquid Eyeliner, HUDA BEAUTY
THE TREATMENTS We test the latest Hammam offerings guaranteed to transform you from head-to-toe
BEST OF SKINCARE New month, new launches, an update for your skincare routine. Here is the best of now
Pixi Beauty is taking the clean cosmetics world by storm, and its newest DetoxifEYE Depuffing Gel Eye Patches soothe and moisturise your under eyes in the time it takes to have your morning coffee. Three hours of total indulgence await with the Luxury Golden Treatment
They’re refreshing too. Sephora.ae
at Anjana Spa. Taking place in the authentic, stunning surrounds of the hammam, a honey peel scrub is followed by a golden body mask wrap, ending with a 50-minute full body massage using gold-infused oil. You will never have felt so clean. Luxury Golden Treatment, Dhs1,200, Anjana Spa, Rixos The Palm; +971 4 457 5415
Sisley’s Ecological Compound 2019 Limited Edition serum is inspired by nature with a formula boasting naturally sourced plant extracts that helps to nourish and protect the skin. Harvey Nichols-Dubai
New to the region, Pestle & Morter is a 100 Newlook Salon’s luxurious Hammam room is a traditional bathhouse
per cent Vegan skincare brand founded
with an opulent and modern feel and marble bathroom goals you’ll
by a mother-of-five. The Pure Hyaluronic
just want to Instagram. Evoking scents of Amber and Musk, the Royal
Serum is lightweight, fragrance-free and
Hammam, a traditional Moroccan-style ritual including a massage, will
both super-hydrating and anti-ageing,
leave you feeling completely rejuvenated and relaxed by the end of your
resulting in plumper and firmer skin.
treatment. Royal Hammam, Dhs550, Newlook Salon; +971 4 330 1310
Beautysolutions-me.com
Glamglow has been a cult favourite in our bathrooms for years, and this month we see the launch of its Berryglow Probiotic Recovery Mask, boasting the benefits of a nutrientrich smoothie in one small pot. Available at Nbar salons
Aside from the zen space, blending traditional Moroccan influences with elegant contemporary design, the Zaaz Hammam Malaki at Zaaz Wellness & Beauty should not be missed. With an organic black soap scrub, hair treatment, green tea scrub, mask and ghassoul body wrap, topped off with a foot scrub, leave feeling blissed-out and buffedup, with baby-soft, glowing skin. Zaaz Hammam Malaki, Dhs550, Zaaz Wellness & Beauty; +971 50 935 4577
Adding to its successful Clear Improvement range, Origin’s OilFree Moisturizer with Bamboo Charcoal has one per cent salicylic acid to help clear skin and prevent new breakouts. Sephora.ae
Photography: Gorunway.com
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COMPLEXION PERFECTION Whether you’re looking for a fresh dewy glow or a full-on face, these brand new foundations have you covered (literally) From top: Airbrush Flawless Foundation, CHARLOTTE TILBURY | Pro Filt’r Soft Matte Longwear Foundation, FENTY BEAUTY | Dior Backstage Face & Body Foundation, DIOR BEAUTY | Phyto-Teint Ultra Eclat, SISLEY PARIS
162 HAIR GOALS Whether you have unruly locks or dehydrated ends, from reformulated old favourites to new kids on the block,
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the essential buys for your bathroom this season guarantee healthier-looking hair in a heartbeat.
Michael Kors
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4 NATURAL INSTINCTS With a flagship in The Dubai Mall, Spanish skincare brand Alissi Brontë is organic, natural and uses
1. Sap Moss Shampoo and Conditioner, AVEDA | 2. Dream Coat for Curly Hair Mist, COLOUR WOW | 3. Extreme Caviar Imperial Smoothing Shampoo, MIRIAM QUEVEDO | 4. Oi Hair Butter, DAVINES
ecological ingredients aimed to provide longlasting effects on beauty, well-being and good skin health. Ethical and effective.
FALL FRAGRANCE EDIT From notes of vibrant pink peppercorn at Hermès to warming notes of rum and ginger from Christian Dior, sniff out a delicious autumnal scent from the world’s finest fragrance houses.
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1. Rose & Cuir by Jean-Claude Ellena, FREDERIC MALLE | 2. Rolling In Love, KILIAN | 3. Spice Blend, CHRISTIAN DIOR | 4. 3 Bouquet Floral, MKS | 5. Twilly d’Hermès Eau Poivrée, HERMÈS
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Photography: Gorunway.com
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BRONZE AND BEYOND Get that fresh-from-Mykonos glow without even setting foot on a plane with this season’s best new bronzers. O!mega Bronze Perfect Tan in Tantalizer, MARC JACOBS BEAUTY | Terracotta Thalia Island Bronzing and Blush Powder, GUERLAIN | Ambient Lighting Bronzer, HOURGLASS | Sun Stalker Instant Warmth Bronzer, FENTY BEAUTY
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Robinsons Beauty Hall
CHANEL Sublime: The Cleansing Collection
THE LUXE CLEANSE 30-MINUTE MAKE-OVER Chanel’s iconic Sublimage skincare line unveils a new collection Home to some of the finest beauty brands, Robinsons Beauty Hall have launched a new luxurious make-over service offering women a complimentary one-onone session with a make-up artist who will create your own personalised look.
that’ll outshine your current routine. With its divine textures and indulgent formulas, you’ll look forward to your daily cleansing ritual as you would an indulgent spa treat.
Call for appointments, +971 4 706 3910
1. The Art of Studio Fix Soft Matte Foundation Stick, MAC COSMETICS | 2. Le Rouge Extension Lipstick in N333, GIVENCHY BEAUTY | 3. Skin Caviar Loose Powder, LA PRAIRIE | 4. Dior Backstage Custom Eyes Palette, DIOR BEAUTY | 5. Damn Girl Mascara, TOO FACED
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Sunday Riley’s best-selling Good Genes
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5 2 NEW MONTH, NEW MAKE-UP
NOT JUST SUNDAY SKINCARE
From illuminating your complexion with La Prairie’s Caviar-infused loose powder
Sunday Riley skincare is finally dropping in Dubai, exclusively at
to creating multi-dimensional looks with Dior’s Backstage Custom Eyes Palette,
Sephora, and you need to get your hands on it. Fusing science
perfect your new-season face painting with gloriously saturated autumnal tones
with botanical ingredients, the multi-tasking formulas address skin
with the most-wanted buys at the beauty counter.
concerns from acne to ageing. There’s something for everyone.
LIGHT UP YOUR LIFE Highlighters are a make-up bag essential and these are guaranteed to bring a glow to your cheekbones. Shine on. Killawatt Foil Freestyle Highlighter in Penny4UThots, FENTY BEAUTY | Dior Backstage Glow Face Palette, DIOR BEAUTY | Limited Edition Exposed Cheek Palette, NARS
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Skin: Le Gel PailletĂŠ highlighter gel | Eyes: Les 4 Ombres eyeshadow palette in 334 Modern Glamour; Ombre Premiere Top Coat eyeshadow in 317 Carte Blanche | Lips: Rouge Coco Gloss in 814, CHANEL BEAUTY
HIGH CONTRAST Cheekbones shimmer and iridescent eyes hide heavy secrets in the noirish landscape of Chanel Beauty’s Parisian winter
Photographed by Filip Koludrovic Make-up by Toni Malt
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Skin: Le Gel Pailleté highlighter gel | Eyes: Les 4 Ombres in 332 Noir Supreme; Les 4 Ombres in 334 Modern Glamour; Ombre Premiere Top Coat eyeshadow in 317 Carte Blanche | Lips: Rouge Allure Liquid Powder in 974, CHANEL BEAUTY | Comète Perles Shooting Star single earring in 18k white gold, pearls and diamonds, CHANEL FINE JEWELRY
Skin: Le Gel Pailleté highlighter gel | Eyes: Les 4 Ombres in 332 Noir Supreme; Ombre Premiere Top Coat eyeshadow in 317 Carte Blanche | Lips: Rouge Allure Liquid Powder in 974, CHANEL BEAUTY
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Skin: Le Gel Pailleté highlighter gel | Eyes: Ombre Premiere Top Coat eyeshadow in 317 Carte Blanche | Lips: Rouge Allure Velvet Extrême in 130 Rouge Obscur, CHANEL BEAUTY
Skin: Le Gel Pailleté highlighter gel | Eyes: Les 4 Ombres in 332 Noir Supreme; Ombre Premiere Top Coat eyeshadow in 317 Carte Blanche | Lips: Rouge Allure Liquid Powder in 974, CHANEL BEAUTY
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Skin: Le Gel Pailleté highlighter gel | Eyes: Les 4 Ombres in 332 Noir Supreme; Ombre Premiere Top Coat eyeshadow in 317 Carte Blanche | Lips: Rouge Allure Liquid Powder in 974, CHANEL BEAUTY
Skin: Le Gel Pailleté highlighter gel | Eyes: Les 4 Ombres in 332 Noir Supreme; Ombre Premiere Top Coat eyeshadow in 317 Carte Blanche; Stylo Yeux Waterproof mascara in 949 Blanc Graphique | Lips: Rouge Allure Velvet Extrême in 130 Rouge Obscur, CHANEL BEAUTY
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Eyes: Ombre Premiere Top Coat eyeshadow in 317 Carte Blanche; Stylo Yeux Waterproof mascara in 88 Noir Intense | Lips: Rouge Allure Velvet Extrême in 130 Rouge Obscur | Skin: Le Gel Pailleté highlighter gel, CHANEL BEAUTY
Eyes: Ombre Premiere Top Coat eyeshadow in 317 Carte Blanche | Lips: Rouge Coco Gloss in 816 | Skin: Le Gel PailletĂŠ highlighter gel, CHANEL BEAUTY Model: Anastasiia Koval at Signature Elements | Make-up: Toni Malt using Le Noir et Blanc de Chanel, Chanel Beauty Fall/Winter 2019 collection | Hair Stylist: Ann-sofie Begtrup at Things By People
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MOJEH BEAUTY
WHAT 74 LOOKS LIKE ...Well, it does if you’re Norma Kamali. MOJEH talks exclusively to the legendary American fashion designer about the launch of her new lifestyle concept, and what it takes to look this good as she approaches her ninth decade Words by Lucy Wildman
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Photography: Getty Images, Courtesy Norma Kamali
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here are some people whose looks seem to defy the both men and women of all ages, skin colours and types. laws of time. Those individuals who, regardless of Way ahead of her time in the world of nutrition and selfhow many years have passed, never seem to age. care, Norma was the first to purvey the art of athleisure in We’re talking the likes of Jennifer Lopez, Halle Berry, the 1970s, combining workout gear with streetwear, Pharrell Williams, Keanu Reeves, Sandra Bullock, Eva resulting in her signature sweatshirt dresses, wearMendes, Gwen Stefani, Liv Tyler, Rob Lowe… all impossibly anywhere one-pieces and her now legendary puffa jackets. youthful-looking and vibrant, seemingly untouched by the She opened a wellness cafe as an extension of her New cruel hands of time that gift the majority of us with York boutique in 2001, years before it became cool to sip wrinkles, sagging jawlines, and waists that magically a freshly-blended green juice as a post-shopping reward. thicken overnight. Add Norma Kamali to that list of And she made her own beauty treatments from olive oil, age-defying, Benjamin Button types. With glowing, line- hand-ground olive stones, and charcoal because she didn’t free skin and a body that puts want to drown her skin in products women a quarter of her age to containing ingredients she didn’t shame, it’s hard to believe the trust or believe in. So as an advocate “I stopped wearing American designer will be of healthy living for decades, and face make-up celebrating her 75th birthday next one of the first who incorporated in 1993, and have been June. So what’s her secret? “Well, lifestyle concepts into her fashion it’s not a secret anymore!” laughs business, why only now has the using this skincare Norma, as we chat to her from her designer launched the skincare line concept for as long as office in downtown New York. Just she’s been keeping under wraps for I can remember. I can’t weeks before her SS20 show at the best part of 40 years? “I guess Fashion Week in September, it’s been a long time coming,” says imagine changing now.” Norma launched her own skincare Norma. “In the 80’s I lost some very Norma Kamali range, Skinline, the first component dear friends to AIDS. It was such a of her new NormaLife concept. huge shock. Nobody knew what that Based on the products she’s long used on her own skin, was, or had any idea about the complexity of it, but what Skinline offers four core natural beauty items: Clean I knew was that it was the result of the immune system not (a soap-free cleanser for the face and body made with being able to defend the body. I’m an action person, so charcoal and aloe leaf juice); Glow (Kamali’s own version I felt that I needed to do something. I started to pursue as of a self-tanner, made with cacao seed butter, and sugar much information about maintaining a healthy immune beet); Soft (an every day face and body moisturiser with system as possible. In that search, I learned more than olive fruit oil); and Smooth (an exfoliator containing olive I could have thought possible about the holistic approach seed powder). Free of parabens, synthetic colours, artificial to wellness and also the negative things in our environment fragrances, phthalates and other chemicals, the unisex that can impact well-being. Fast forward to 9/11 and the line is inclusive and democratic, designed to be used by opening of my Wellness Cafe. I was sure this event would
74-year-old designer Norma has added a skincare line to her successful fashion business
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Norma credits daily workouts at the New York branch of Physique 57 with helping her stay in shape
stress the immune system even more for everyone, and every baby born from that day forward. Fast forward again to now, and I see a proliferation of products that promise good health that I think may actually be motivated by a business opportunity rather than genuinely helping people adopt and follow a healthy lifestyle. There are a glut of products and trends in the wellness space, so I just wanted to enter this world of thinking and simplify it with information I’ve learned over the years. Products that are not complicted, and easy for people to incorporate into their lives. That’s how NormaLife came about.” The first launch from NormaLife, Skinline, has been created using the finest, all-natural ingredients, upgraded from the original versions she created for her own use decades ago. During development, she became accustomed to questioning everything. “‘Why is this ingredient in my product?’ I would ask,” she says. “And they would tell me, ‘Don’t worry; it’s okay.’ I’m like, ‘No, no, no, you don’t understand. I don’t trust anybody.’” Undergoing the most
stringent testing everywhere from Europe to Asia, Norma’s products have been scrutinised for safety and effacacy by the toughest labs in the industry, at the designer’s insistence. “Whenever someone says clean, natural or organic, the intention is that the product is safe for popular use. But there are some ingredients that should not be in a skincare product, and everybody, including me, should have information or new data that says something could be harmful,” says Norma. Ensuring that every ingredient included in Skinline is kind to the skin and safe, Norma’s dedication to creating products that are safe, natural and, most importantly, do what they claim to, is of paramount importance. “I have a responsibility to people if I am asking them to use my products on their body,” she says. “People trust me with their clothes, so knowing that I am using all of these products personally, and have done for years, means they can trust me with their skincare too.” Quite the best advertisement for her own product, Norma’s simplistic
Aged 19 in 1964. Aspiring to be a painter, she studied fashion illustration at university.
Pictured in 1984, Norma became famous for creating pieces from parachute silk material.
Wearing her own design at the CFDA in 2016, her works are displayed at the Smithsonian Institute.
attitude to skincare extends to all aspects of her life. using olive oil and tumeric on a daily basis and avoiding “I stopped wearing face make-up in 1993, and have been all alcohol, processed foods and sugar, Norma also works using this skincare concept for as long as I can remember. out every day, and is a long-time devotee of the New York I’ve improved the product recipes and simplified them branch of studio fitness concept, Physique 57. “I’ve done over the years of course, as I’ve discovered ingredients every kind of exercise you can possibly imagine in my that do the best job, but I think we’ve got there now,” says life,” reveals Norma. “I used to do a lot of circuit training, Norma. “I remember how I used to worry about being and prior to that, I had a personal trainer, but then I seen when I woke up in the morning without any make-up decided to try something new. Twelve years ago, when I on. I can’t imagine feeling like that now.” Her pared-back was 62, Physique 57 opened a few doors down from my building, I had no idea what it was, beauty routine is indeed a far cry from many other women her age. but I signed up for five classes, and “I think the secret is to by the fifth class, I was addicted. I “There are two camps of women saw my body change almost when it comes to make-up. The not want to be young, overnight. I felt really strong, and ones who say they could never put but to be the best make-up on every day, and others it gave me such a boost. I feel at where you are energised every time I go.” And who simply couldn’t imagine their while Norma doesn’t believe lives without it.” Admitting she is in your life.” getting older should be a concern now one of the former, after being Norma Kamali – “age is nothing to be afraid of ” one of the latter, Norma is all about – having a healthy lifestyle should minimalism when it comes to make-up. “After I’ve cleansed and put on moisturiser, be the focus, not the number of candles on your birthday I apply Glow to my face instead, which evens out my cake. “If I do something and it makes me look good, I’m skintone, and makes me look healthy and a little- prone to want to keep doing it,” she says. “Everything I sunkissed. I feel totally good about showing my skin, started researching had to do with how to look better. I which I think is very freeing. You can put on lipstain, and think the secret is to not want to be young, but to be the you can do your eyes, but having good skin gives you best at where you are in your life. And that has a lot to do confidence – it’s empowering.” Following a meat and with fitness and health.” And if that’s what will make us dairy-free diet, eating “a tonne of fruit and vegetables,” look as good as Norma at 74, who are we to question her?
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The grand entrance to Le Royal Monceau-Raffles Paris
ONE NIGHT IN PARIS The Philippe Starck designed hotel, Le Royal Monceau-Raffles Paris, brings a unique twist to the city’s saturated hotel scene, encompassing Michelin-star food, contemporary art and French hospitality under one incredibly chic roof Words by Natascha Hawke
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ince its inception in 1928, Le Royal Monceau hotel in Paris has been a meeting place for the rich and famous, where celebrated artists and musicians of the day, such as Josephine Baker, Ernest Hemingway and Walt Disney would rendez-vous with Indian Maharajahs, Egyptian kings and high society in one of its many salons. Today is no different; the property has played host to everyone from Madonna to Kim Kardashian, who favour its super-luxe hotel aesthetic – created by French designer Philippe Starck – and world-class service. Not to mention that it is home to some of the largest suites in Paris at 350sqm, all with private access direct from the street should a swift exit be neccessary. A quick Google search reveals that the Hadid sisters, Kaia Gerber, Jessica Chastain, Sophie Turner and Celine Dion have all been recent guests. When I arrive on a scorching hot summer’s day during Couture Week in July, the scene that awaits me does not disappoint. A frenzied crowd of photographers, cameras in hand, flood the pavement outside the art deco entrance. At the heart of the commotion is an unidentifiable, glamorous blonde woman in towering heels and oversized dark sunglasses, hurriedly pushing through the crowd to get to a waiting chauffeur-driven Mercedes, before shooting off down Avenue Hoche. Having caused
TRAVEL EDIT Mirrors and soft grey furnishings in the 241 Presidential suite
quite the stir, within moments of her stepping into the car, the crowd dissipates and it’s business as usual. I am quickly ushered inside by an apologetic doorman, who confirms that this is commonplace for the hotel, especially during fashion weeks. The lobby is abuzz with French voices, and although it’s the middle of the day, the connecting bar and outdoor terrace are full of couples, both business and pleasure, in the midst of intense tête-à-têtes. The inside of the hotel is dark, almost gothic in its palette of reds and dark wood, acting like a protective cloak designed to shield guests from prying eyes, evoking a feeling of romance and mystery that is only found in Paris. At the heart of the hotel is Nobu’s Matsuhisa – his first restaurant in France – that transforms into La Cuisine for breakfast until 11am, before hosting lunch and dinner. Hailed as one of the best dining experiences in the city, Matsuhisa has competition in the neighbouring one Michelin-starred Il Carpaccio, which is hidden away in a glass conservatory across the courtyard. I am told by guest relations that as soon as the venues open they remain full until closing time, so be early or book in advance if you want a table for lunch or dinner – especially in the courtyard during the summer months – or the chance is slim to none. Since its reopening in 2010 under the design direction of Starck, art has become of particular importance to the hotel’s DNA. Paintings and photographs line the walls, an obscure sculpture sits at the heart of the lobby, there is even a gallery space which holds numerous exhibitions every year, a dedicated art concierge, plus an art newspaper in every guest room highlighting events taking place in the city. The in-house art bookstore showcases the best in cutting-edge fashion and art books, as well as collectible objets d’art and branded keepsakes, for guests to take away with them. The location is a top selling point for Le Royal Monceau. Tucked away on sleepy Avenue Hoche, but within moments of the legendary shopping of the Champs Élysées and Arc de Triomphe, it’s within walking distance of some of the City of Lights’ most famous attractions – and if there is one way to really explore Paris, it’s on foot. The central location allows for days spent discovering the city without ever needing to take a taxi – a bit of a blessing in Paris’ famed congested traffic. Minutes from the picturesque Parc Monceau, should one have brought a dog – pets up to 5kg are allowed to stay as guests too – the hotel’s location is also ideal for furry friends. Art, culture and French panache in droves, it’s easy to see why Le Royal Monceau-Raffles Paris, as it is now known, is the chosen address for those looking to see or be seen.
The lounge of Le Royal Monceau Suite
The bedroom of a Junior Suite
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The living room of the 241 Presidential suite
Matsuhisa Paris by Nobu is his only restaurant in France
THE SUITE LIFE Housing 149 suites and rooms, including three 350sqm Presidential suites, the 241, the Katara and the Raffles, complete with private gyms, as well as a 167sqm penthouse, the hotel offers some of the largest suites in Paris, and with private entrances direct to the street, it offers unrivalled luxury and privacy – if desired – when it comes to choice of accomodation. The Philippe Starck designed interiors throughout the rooms come in a pastel colour palette of soft pinks and greys that create a contemporary-kitsch aesthetic reminiscent of a 1950s boudoir, with the chic sophistication of Starck’s ultramodern, architectural aesthetic. His design signature of unexpected objets d’art positioned ‘just so’ appear throughout the hotel in various forms: a lamp with a deliberately tilted shade, an acoustic guitar that sits in the corner of every room, and paintings sat on the floor rather than hung on the wall – all carefully considered to inspire curiosity. Signature furnishings are found in every room, custom-made for the hotel. Highlights include desks manufactured by Philippe Hurel that reveal a map of Paris that has been specially curated with not-to-be-missed sites chosen by Starck. The bathrooms are mirrored floor-to-ceiling, creating infinite space, while freestanding bathtubs positioned next to the window with views over the Parisian rooftops add a dash of romance. Not to disrupt his design flow with the addition of a bulky TV, Starck has selected large mirrors that conceal the screen inside the glass. Every corner is thought about and no expense has been spared.
SPA MY BLEND BY CLARINS In the basement of Le Royal Monceau sits Spa My Blend by Clarins. Also designed by Philippe Starck, it showcases Paris’ longest hotel pool at 23 metres residing in an all-white room lined with futuristic daybeds and sophisticated sofas, the walls stacked with multiple mirrors – decor you’d more likely find in a Parisian bar.
NEW HOTEL: THE SINNER PARIS
Complete with sauna and steam rooms for both men and
Brand new to the hotel scene is the enticingly named Sinner
women, as well as an ice fountain and plunge pool, the spa offers
Paris from Evok hotels. Located in the heart of Le Marais
welcome respite after a long day on your feet exploring the city.
district, the 43-room property, designed by Tristan Auer, is an
The treatments on offer, all devised by Dr Olivier Courtin-Clarins,
Instagrammer’s dream with colour-pop furnishings in photogenic
range from skin diagnosis and cutting-edge facials to signature
tones, designed with creative types in mind. The ‘tribal’ food
Clarins body treatments, and there’s also a make-up artist on
is brought by Adam Bentalha who blends North African and
hand to create a personalised beauty look before you head out
South American cuisine, and the spa offers eco-responsible
for a night on the Parisian tiles.
and vegan treatments using Orveda products. Sinnerparis.com
LAGERFELD, THE CHANEL SHOWS Coinciding with Paris Fashion Week, and marking the launch of
MUST VISIT: LA MAISON SISLEY
photographer Simon Procter’s Rizzoli book of the same name,
The go-to skincare destination for Parisians in the know,
Lagerfeld, The Chanel Shows exhibition will be on display at Le
La Maison Sisley on Avenue de Friedland in the Golden Triangle is
Royal Monceau art gallery until November 15. Featuring unpublished
the spa address of the revered beauty brand. Designed as a home
images of the late German designer’s iconic shows for Chanel, the
from home, the spa contains six treatments rooms, a cafe and a
exhibition is a tribute to one of fashion’s greatest designers and a
Sisley boutique showcasing the complete product range. Book in
must-see if you are planning a trip to Paris.
for the best facial of your life. Sisley-Paris.com
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MOJEH TRAVEL
THE DESTINATION From superyachts and underwater suites in the Maldives to British countryside estates, travel gets diverse this October
My Vittaveli sits in the ocean beside Jumeirah Vittaveli resort
From top: On deck dining with uninterrupted ocean views; My Vittaveli’s indoor lounge
JUMEIRAH LAUNCHES A SUPERYACHT Looking for an unforgettable group or family holiday experience in the Maldives? Look no further than Jumeirah’s 85ft Azimut superyacht, which resides off the shore of Bolifushi Island, the home of the Jumeirah Vittaveli resort in the South Male Atoll. Three luxuriously-appointed decks house two master cabins, two twin cabins, an indoor lounge area, outdoor dining area, sun and swim deck, plus four-person jacuzzi, all accomodating up to eight people staying on board and up to 20 for a day out cruising the Indian Ocean. Check in with friends or family and head off to explore uninhabited islands, stop for a BBQ lunch in a private cove, and dive or snorkel with whale sharks and dolphins. If staying on board, rest assured My Vittaveli is equipped with all mod-cons including hydrosonic massage bathtubs in each en-suite bathroom, accessorised with Hermès toiletries, Italian marble inlays throughout the bedrooms, jet skis and other thrill-seeking watersports equipment, all available at a moment’s notice to ensure boredom never sets in. Starting from Dhs92,000 ($25,000) per night, My Vittaveli is available for private bookings only, inclusive of all four cabins and four hours of cruising per day. Guests will also have full access to the main resort’s facilities. Surely the only way to experience the Maldives. Jumeirah.com
EXPERIENCE CONRAD MALDIVES If staying in The Muraka – the Conrad Maldives’ exclusive two-level private residence with underwater master bedroom, 16ft below sea level – isn’t entertaining enough, guests can now book culturally immersive experiences for those looking to explore. The Wanderers Experiences include visits to neighbouring fishing villages to see how locals live; snorkelling with a film crew capturing the scene, and Moonlight Movies under the stars. Conradmaldives.com
A guest room at The St. Regis Amman
THE ST. REGIS DEBUTS IN AMMAN This September, St. Regis Hotels & Resorts celebrated the launch of its first fivestar hotel in the Kingdom of Jordan with the inauguration of The St. Regis Amman, a 16-storey, 260-room property located in the 5th Circle district of Abdoun. Its central location means Jordan’s many heritage sites are within easy reach, and the hotel can create tailor-made experiences to ensure all cultural corners can be explored in the comfort and luxury of St. Regis’ first-class hospitality. Of course, rest and relaxation are also at the heart, and the elegant Iridium Spa offers both in abundance through world-class treatments. Stregisamman.com
The boardwalk leading to The Muraka private residence at Conrad Maldives
Inside the spectaculr Grand Lobby
The iconic facade of Raffles Singapore
RAFFLES SINGAPORE REOPENS Founded in 1887, Raffles Singapore has a rich history contained within its colonial-style facades. A rite of passage for adventurers, and thoroughfare for the rich and famous, it has gained a legendary Editor: Natascha Hawke
reputation over its 130 year history as the only place to be when in the Lion City. Ava Gardner, Rudyard Kipling and Elizabeth Taylor all passed through the famous Long Bar (the birthplace of the Singapore Sling cocktail) which remains a top attraction. Newly renovated for 2019, the hotel maintains its Old World appeal, but with the addition of new bars and restaurants. Raffles.com/singapore
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Highclere Castle – most popularly known as Downton Abbey
Lady Carnarvon
STAY AT DOWNTON ABBEY To celebrate the upcoming movie, Lady Carnarvon of Highclere Castle, the filming location of Downton Abbey, is opening up her home to two guests for one night only on November 26, for the set price of Dhs700. In partnership with AirBnB, reservations will go live on October 1 and the proceeds of the stay will be donated to The International Federation of Red Cross and Red Crescent Societies. Airbnb.com
GARDEN ROUTE GAME WALKING This November, the award-winning Gondwana Game Reserve on the Garden Route in South Africa’s Eastern Cape is launching the Pioneer Trail. A three-day walking safari for groups of up to eight guests, the Pioneer Trail will be led by expert guides and will cover around 20km over two days of the 11,000-hectare reserve, taking in Gondwana’s open grassland, Outeniqua and Langeberg mountains, and, if lucky, lion, zebra, rhino, hippo, elephant, and many more. Gondwanagr.co.za
The chic interiors of a one-bedroom suite at The Biltmore
THE BILTMORE MAYFAIR Just when you thought there was no more space in central London, another luxury hotel opens its doors. The Biltmore Mayfair joins Habtoor Palace Dubai as the second property from Hilton LXR. Situated in the prime spot of Grosvenor Square, with 307 rooms and 51 suites, the hotel also brings with it four new restaurants from superstar chef, Jason Atherton. Thebiltmoremayfair.com Get up-close to Gondwana Game Reserve’s magnificent residents
W Aspen’s chalet style facade
The terrace of the Dome Penthouse at Hotel Café Royal
THE FRIEZE LONDON PACKAGE Art enthusiasts with a weekend to spare take note of the
W ASPEN
Hotel Cafe Royal’s exclusive package in collaboration with Frieze
Nestled slope-side on Aspen Mountain, home to some of the
London. Inclusive of overnight stay with a bottle of bubbles on arrival,
best skiiing in the world, W Aspen last month opened its doors,
two passes to the Frieze London art fair with complimentary BMW
marking the launch of the first new luxury hotel to open in the
transfer to the event in Regent’s Park, spa access and breakfast,
ski resort in 25 years. Joining the W Verbier as the second
starting at Dhs2,800, it promises to be a weekend to remember.
W Mountain Escape, the resort also brings with it Wet Deck – the
Available until October 10; Hotelcaferoyal.com
area’s only year-round rooftop venue with panoramic views, hot tub, heated pool, fire pits and a dancefloor to set après ski off with a bang. With 88 rooms, five WOW suites and 11 residences all decked out in retro style, Aspen is the only place to ski this season. Waspenhotel.com
Striking contemporary design abounds at Na Lotus Hotel
The spa pool with mountain views at Clinique La Prairie
LA PRAIRIE’S NEW AESTHETICS PROGRAM
NA LOTUS HOTEL BY THE LUXURY COLLECTION The Luxury Collection introduces its eighth hotel in China with the debut of the Na Lotus Hotel in Nanning in the Guangxi
The Swiss clinic on the shores of Lake Geneva couldn’t be a more
Province. Also known as the Green City due to its abundance
appropriate place in which to rejuvenate. Fresh air and mountain views
of lush foliage, Nanning offers plenty of exploration for the
set the scene for the newly-launched Advanced Aesthetic Beauty Program,
adventurous in treks to Qingxiu Mountain and the Detian
which includes five days of cutting-edge, results-driven treatments such as
Waterfall – the largest in Asia – and the ancient towns of Na Lian
Botox, PRP and mesotherapy to give you the beauty boost you deserve –
and Yangmei which can be arra ged by the hotel’s concierge.
perfect before a big event. Starting from Dhs62,000. Cliniquelaprairie.com
The-luxury-collection.marriott.com
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MOJEH TRAVEL
SPREAD YOUR WINGS
A mini-break that balances relaxation with adventure? Head to the city of angels, and stay at The Peninsula Bangkok The spectacular skyline view from The Peninsula Bangkok
I
A Thai-themed suite
Thiptara, the hotel’s signature restaurant on the Chao Phraya river
f Bangkok conjures visions of Leonardo DiCaprio in The Beach downing a shot of snake’s blood on the Khao San Road, then leave it to the Peninsula hotel to show you an entirely different side of the Thai capital. Situated on the bank of the slightly chaotic Chao Phraya river, the five-star property is right in the heart of the action of Thailand’s capital city, and offers elegant accommodation with exceptional city views, all within easy reach of the many tourist attractions. Not exactly a beautiful city, but with plenty to experience, exploring is best done by river, which, with its private pontoon and shuttle boat, is made easy departing directly from the hotel’s terrace. Within minutes guests can be sightseeing one of the many temples that line the Chao Phraya, or shopping and eating at one of the bustling markets, all in the knowledge that if it gets too much – with the Bangkok crowds it’s to be expected – there is an oasis of calm ready to welcome them back. Tranquility away from the crowds can be found on a daybed beside the riverside swimming pool where the attentive staff create a holiday vibe, delivering colourful cocktails and bite-sized entrees garnished with a heavenly-scented frangipani flower. Real peace, however, is found in the three-storey colonialstyle spa where the true Thai magic happens. Traditional massages, state-of-the-art facials and specially curated spa journeys are performed by highly-trained therapists who will pummel stresses of the day away, and for couples looking to relax together, a hot tub can be prepared in a private spa suite with views over the river. Naturally, food is a big part of the Thai experience and when not experimenting with local cuisine in the markets, authentic gastronomy can be tried at Thiptara, the hotel’s signature restaurant, where spicy curries, splendid seafood and delicate desserts, paired with the disco boats and barges traversing the river at night, set a memorable scene to revisit again and again. Peninsula.com
Chilled vibes rule at the Peninsula Bangkok‘s swimming pool
a free-flowing form made from multi-coloured mesh on the exterior of the building, ready to greet guests as they arrived. Inside, Timothy Paul Myers created an all-red, al fresco dining scene beneath wilting trees, while Iván Navarro constructed an infinity box which encased neon letters that read ‘home.’ Following the success of Hong Kong, the spectacle will now move to its next stop: Paris. This month, The Peninsula Paris will welcome Iván Navarro’s returning neon sculpture, as well as works from newly commissioned artists Saya Woolfalk and Elise Morin. French artist, Morin, will craft a large-scale installation using unconventional materials like pulverized CDs – referencing climate change and the burden of manman objects on the planet. Each featured work of art has an emphasis on engagement, designed to generate a meaningful conversation that tackles issues of our time. From cultural diversity to immigration, the luxury hotel brand wanted the programme to address global challenges through the eyes of
THE PENINSULA ART IN RESONANCE
emerging talent. Through immersive and impactful displays, the
For one of the world’s leading hoteliers, art is not used to
Peninsula Hotels are supporting both the artist and their vision.
simply decorate the walls, it is thoughtfully placed with a
The Paris edition of ‘Art in Resonance,’ will take place from
purpose. The Peninsula Hotels’ ‘Art in Resonance’ programme,
September 26 until November 15, opening with a Paris Fashion
supports emerging artists in the cultural sphere by displaying
Week presentation from emerging designer Brother Vellies.
their work in a series of exhibitions featured at Peninsula
The exhibition will return to Hong Kong in March 2020, with a
Hotels around the world. The concept was launched in Hong
fresh set of inspiring installations to anticipate. In April 2020,
Kong in March 2019; which saw artist, Janet Echelman, suspend
the travelling show debuts in Tokyo.
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CULTURE EDIT
Portable speaker, BANG & OLUFSON
LIMITED EDITION BANG & OLUFSON According to achingly hip Danish audio brand, Bang & Olufsen, authentic sound should be impeccably styled. For AW19, classic products have been reworked in a new seasonal palette of cosy chestnut, trench coat tan and pretty peony as part of a limited edition line. Made to elevate your ensemble, the neutral hues can be effortlessly paired with autumn’s tawny tones of sepia, cinnamon and taupe – enhanced by a fresh punch of pink. Decked in the soft and sophisticated shades, portable speakers, lightweight Beoplay H9 headphones and wireless earpieces become statement accessories to wear all season long. Bang-olufsen.com
Left: Vases, MAREMORO; Plates, BITOSSI HOME all at MAIOLICA
TABLE MANNERS As the weather cools, it’s time to think about al fresco dining, garden parties and drinks on the terrace. For all your table decorating needs, Dubai-based e-commerce platform Maiolica has a collection to suit, from crockery inspired by Mediterranean summers with a romantic Sicilian aesthetic, to colourful florals. Add a hint of colour to your table with one of their vibrant novelty vases, rainbow tinted goblets and handpainted plates in pastel shades. Maiolica.ae
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN X THE RUG COMPANY Finely woven tapestries of moody blooms, signature skulls and gothic prints can only mean one thing: a McQueen collaboration. A focal point in any space, an Alexander McQueen x The Rug Company masterpiece creates a statement feature to layer beneath velvet chairs and clustered coffee tables. For the Chiaroscuro rug (a dark floral design), each colour is expertly blended to form a stunning photographic effect. Therugcompany.com
COFFEE CORNER A smooth latte in the morning can set the mood for the whole day. With Vertuo, Nespresso’s latest innovative method, brewing is simplified in the touch of a button. From espressos to flat whites, the Vertuo process revolutionises the way coffee is made with an automatic adjusting system that recognizes a variety of new capsule sizes. Large or small, coffee aficionados can now enjoy their favourite cup, any way they like. Buynespresso.com
Words: Jenna Calvert
New Nespresso Vertuo
Arabic coffee cup, UM KULTHUM at O’ DE ROSE
Travel cup, LUTZ MORRIS X KPM at MATCHES FASHION
THE NEW CHANEL BOUTIQUE From iconic handbags to signature pearls, Chanel’s Fashion House is where to head for a dose of shopping therapy. The boutique, located in The Dubai Mall, has been given a chic renovation to elevate your experience. Surrounded by a colour code of beige, burgundy and gold, browse through the emblematic Camélia and Coco Crush collections or try on the latest RTW in the ornate fitting room, complete with a limestone antique French fireplace.
192 EXHIBITION: LOEWE IN MADRID Take a tour through the Loewe archives of 1800s vanity cases and travel trunks, right through to the iconic handbags of the modern era. The fashion house will open its doors to the public over a special weekend dedicated to luxury leather: from a viewing of Casa Loewe, the flagship boutique in Madrid’s Salamanca neighbourhood, to a craft workshop that uncovers the secrets behind the savoir faire of a Loewe bag. The exhibition takes place from October 13-14 LOEWE Open Archives
Portrait of Umayma Hussein Ibish by Louay Kayyali
ONE WEEKEND ONLY: OPERA IN OMAN Spend a night at the Royal Opera House Muscat to witness the world premiere of La Bohème by the Philharmonique de Monte Carlo and the choir of Opéra de Monte Carlo. Making a stop in Oman on its world tour for just one weekend before it returns to Monaco in January 2020, conducted by Giuseppe Finzi and staged by Jean-Louis Grinda, the opera boasts a cast of internationallyacclaimed stars. Playing on October 3 and 5, it’s a spectacle not to be missed.
Rohmuscat.org.om The exquisite interiors of Opera de Monte Carlo
The Untitled by Hadieh Shafie
CHRISTIE’S MIDDLE EAST ART AUCTION Modern Arab works will be auctioned for the third Christie’s Middle Eastern art sale during Islamic Art Week in London. A popular platform for artists in the region, pieces from emerging creative talents from Iran, Egypt and Syria will be showcased. From Untitled by Hadieh Shafie, a multi-dimensional ink and acrylic work inspired by the effects of the 1979 Iranian revolution, to the Portrait of Umayma Hussein Ibish by Louay Kayyali, a feminine depiction told through fluid lines and constructing colour, the October 23 auction includes an exceptional offering of contemporary Arab art. Christies.com
Marco’s New York Italian at Fairmont Bab Al Bahr
ABU DHABI WELCOMES MARCO PIERRE WHITE A new addition to the capital’s culinary scene, Marco’s New York Italian is located at Abu Dhabi’s five-star Fairmont Bab Al Bahr. With famed chef Marco Pierre White at the helm, classic eats blend with a casual-chic ambience inspired by the city that never sleeps. Softly lit floating bulbs, mix-and-match furnishings and monochrome photographs create a social environment where sourdough pizza, honeyed ribs and creamy cheese cake are all on the menu. Lunch, brunch or dinner – the restaurant offers an all-day dining experience envisioned by White; you can even sit in the chef’s legendary chair, if you like. +971 2 654 3238
Il Ristorante
Marco Pierre White
WEDNESDAY’S AT MAREA Mid-week blues take on a new meaning at Marea, with live jazz music performed every Wednesday by vocalist Claudia Patrice. A great date night choice, soulful hits accompany exceptional, authentic cuisine from the coastal towns of Italy. If you’re just perched at the bar, be sure to order the Crostini Trio topped with black truffle. +971 4 583 6366
Marea’s stylish staircase
BVLGARI’S CULINARY GRAND TOUR A contemporary cuisine concept centred on a journey through eighteenth century Europe, the Grand Tour is a perfect way to reminisce a summer spent in Italy. Launched by Bvlgari Resort Dubai, the unique tasting menu begins at Il Ristorante by chef Niko Romito and stops at some of Italy’s beloved cities: Florence, Bologna, Venice, Naples, Palermo and Rome. Romito’s menu incorporates culture, art and gastronomy, in a fusion of taste and place. +971 4 777 5433
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MOJEH CULTURE
ART AND CULTURE HAS LANDED Inside Saudi Arabia’s spaceship-like mega museum
Words by Aimee Dawson
A
fter a decade of construction and a build cost of around Dhs1.5 billion, the vast King Abdulaziz Center for World Culture, otherwise known as Ithra, protrudes from its desert surroundings as if it has crash-landed from the future – and in a way, it has. Located in Saudi Arabia’s eastern province of Dhahran, the sinuous, glinting metal structure is not only the first museum of its kind in the Kingdom, but is also rather unique in the world. A combination of research centre, incubator, library, education space and art hub, Ithra could perhaps be compared to New York’s New Museum or the whole of Dubai’s d3 Design District squeezed into one building. In every part of the museum, from its architectural design to its “Idea Lab”, at Ithra, innovation is key.
The location is a little off the beaten track — while arts and culture hubs are well-founded in Jeddah and Riyadh, the scene in Dhahran (around a fourhour drive from the capital) is pretty minimal. So why has this — one of the biggest museums in all of Saudi Arabia — ended up in this coastal town? The answer is the museum’s funder, Saudi Aramco, a huge oil and gas producer and the world’s most profitable company, which is based in Dhahran. They launched Ithra back in 2008 to mark their 75th anniversary, with the idea to “empower human development” and to “give back to the Kingdom.” The initiative is part of the increasing realisation that oil won’t last forever and that Saudi Arabia needs to diversify its economy, which is the key point of the country’s Vision 2030.
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“
We chose this design because we wanted it to tie to the futuristic, pioneering vision and intent of the centre itself. Fatima Al-Rashid
What Lies Behind The Sun, 2019, by Zahrah Al-Ghamdi is made entirely of Acacia tree branches
Maha Malluh’s Oil Candies, 2019
Contemporary works from 11 Saudi artists are on display in Zamakan
“Our aspiration is to play a leading role in establishing the Kingdom as a hub and as a platform for creativity on the local, regional and global stage,” says the centre’s Head of Learning, Abdullah Al-Rashid. Everything about Ithra’s design has a symbolic meaning. First, the site was chosen because it is close to the Prosperity Well — Saudi Arabia’s first commercial oil well — and is meant to represent the transition from that old source to a “new source of energy” – human energy. The building itself is meant to be shaped like the stones that hold oil reserves and these ‘rocks’ appear to be leaning on one another, symbolising the need to work together. The outer coating that gives the museum its silver sheen is a façade of individually-formed stainless steel tubes that resemble the kinds of pipes that draw oil from the earth. The list of metaphors is endless, but the most interesting thing is that the museum meets LEED standards – Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design, the most widely-used green building rating system in the world – for low energy usage and sustainability, despite being situated in the scorching heat of the desert. Created by Norwegian firm Snøhetta, the design was chosen from an open call in 2007 by Fatima Al-Rashid, head of the Ithra Advisory Group. Instrumental in the conception and design of the museum, Fatima worked closely with the team at Snøhetta. “We wanted this project to be an iconic architectural landmark,” she explained. “We chose this design because we wanted it to tie to the futuristic, pioneering vision and intent of the centre itself.” People were sceptical that a museum in Saudi would show modern and contemporary art,
On loan from LACMA, the Beauty and Identity exhibition features over 130 rare and exceptional Islamic objects
presuming the country to be too conservative for potentially avant-garde works. But the vast building has four exhibition galleries boasting a range of displays, from ancient Islamic objects to cutting-edge contemporary pieces. The Funoon gallery, which is dedicated to contemporary works, is a small but tightly-edited collection by the museum’s curator and public programs coordinator, Candida Pestana. The first show she put together was Wasl: Beyond the Pen, in 2018, which looked at art inspired by Arabic script and calligraphy. The current exhibition, Zamakan, shows how 11 Saudi and Saudi-based creatives approach the theme of time and place, and includes brilliant artists such as Dana Awartani, Sara Abdu and Omar Abduljawad – his installation Thuluth (2018) proving a standout work in the show. Excitingly, Pestana and her team are working on creating an impressive, permanent contemporary collection for Ithra. Many of the works on show in Zamakan are commissions or recent acquisitions: the circular sculpture What Lies Behind the Sun (2019), made up of branches from the desert’s Acacia trees, is by land artist Zahrah Al-Ghamdi, who represented Saudi Arabia at the Venice
Biennale this year. Maha Malluh’s monumental Oil Candies installation (2019) comprises brightly coloured oil cans that have been crushed flat, representing Saudi Arabia’s once economically transformative oil industry that’s now making way for a more diverse economy. This newlyacquired work is almost a visual representation of the museum’s entire raison d’etre. The contemporary programme also issues an annual open call for emerging artists in the eastern province as part of their plan to develop the local artistic scene. For Zamakan, the curators received over 600 applications for the prize, choosing Dhahran-born artist Aziz Jamal as this year’s beneficiary. The gallery’s next exhibition, opening in November, will be a photographyfocused show about the Middle East, including works from both Saudi and international artists. Downstairs, the museum houses an exceptional loan exhibition of Islamic objects from the Los Angeles County Museum of Art (LACMA), Beauty and Identity. The dramatically lit, state-of-the-art gallery includes around 130 objects, including artefacts from Mughal India and Moorish Spain. The jewel in the crown of the display is an entire 18th-century reception room taken from
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The striking perforated ceiling of The Great Hall
Damascus, which boasts lavish decoration. It was purchased by LACMA in 2014, and lent to Ithra after the Saudi museum helped fund much-needed restorations for the American museum’s interior. When the works are sent back to Los Angeles next year, Ithra will fill the gallery with its own growing Islamic art collection, including a rare page from the famous Blue Qur’an, a late-9th or early 10th-century holy book made of indigo sheets and gold writing that has been described as one of the most extraordinary luxury manuscripts ever created. The most dazzling space in the whole building, however, is the Great Hall. The 1,600 square metre room has a perforated vaulted ceiling to let in dappled light, creating a similar feel to the Louvre Abu Dhabi’s dome, and is coated in copper. This unique space has been designed to host travelling or loaned exhibitions, and has so far displayed works of master artists including Leonardo da Vinci, Vincent van Gogh and, most recently, Edvard Munch. “Here in Saudi Arabia, Ithra’s most recent exhibition featured the works of acclaimed Norwegian artist, Edvard Munch
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We wanted to show them something that was about more than technique – that was about capturing emotion, about expressing creativity. Farah Abushallaih Works from Edvard Munch were displayed in rooms dedicated to specific emotions
there is so much focus on science and technology — everyone is an engineer,” says the show’s curator, Farah Abushallaih, on bringing Munch’s famed works to Ithra. “They look at works of art in a museum, which is a new experience for them, and say, ‘I could have done this’. We wanted to show them something that was about more than technique — that was about capturing emotion, about expressing creativity.” Ithra is abuzz with activity, receiving 700,000 visitors since the soft opening last June. The library, which spans four floors and has the most space-like feel of the whole interior, has more than 220,000 books printed in both Arabic and English, and regularly hosts book clubs as well as iRead, an annual reading competition. The 300-seat theatre welcomes international shows and musicians — the musical The Wizard of Oz is currently playing – while the 300-seat cinema screens non-commercial and locally-made films, as well as commissioning new productions by local filmmakers. This month sees the return of Ithra’s big multidisciplinary festival, Tanween. Now in its second edition, this “creativity season” is themed around the idea of play, includes over 100 talks and workshops, 13 installations, and many other shows and activities. Running from October 10-26, one of the highlights of the festival are the interactive artworks by German-Polish new media artist, Karina Smigla-Bobinski. Her work, ADA, is a giant, helium-filled ball covered in charcoal nodules that visitors can throw around a blank canvas room to create a collaborative, crowd-sourced drawing. Meanwhile, Karina’s piece Kaleidoscope is a touch-sensitive lightbox room where the audience is actively encouraged to walk along and press down on the surfaces to make the walls and floor change colour.
The museum recently exhibited a magnificent collection of the works of Leonardo da Vinci
The museum’s space-age design was created by Norwegian company Snøhetta
Ithra’s multi-disciplinary festival Tanween returns to the museum for the second time this October
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Photography: Getty Images
MOJEH CULTURE
The Grand Canal in Venice, Italy
IN MY DREAM I WAS IN KUWAIT An unprecedented artist residency programme creates unity between Kuwait’s emerging talent and Venice’s art appreciators. Words by Laura Beaney
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hen considering the art of Kuwait, the Grand Canal in Venice may not be the first backdrop that springs to mind. But a new exhibition showcasing the work of six emerging artists, selected to receive the prestigious Sheikh Abdullah Al Salem Cultural Centre’s residency, brings two realities together. The exhibition, In my dream I was in Kuwait, is the second in a two-part series under Heart of Culture, the centre’s pioneering international visual arts programme. Presented in the Scuola dell’Arte dei Tiraoro e Battioro, a storied space along Venice’s central artery, the Grand Canal – a former home to the city’s Guild of artists and makers of gold thread – In my dream I was in Kuwait comes to life at a particularly pertinent moment when the creative ties between the East and the West are being fervently explored. Despite the rife climate for rich intercultural exchange, aspiring artists continue to struggle to make a name for themselves internationally while funding the development of their practice – hindrances synonymous with the art world that often sees fresh talent left unnurtured. In support of progression and to foster critical and interpretive thinking within the Kuwaiti community, the Sheikh Abdullah Al Salem Cultural Centre, developed by the Amiri Diwan, has embarked on an ambitious programme of exhibitions and public activations to facilitate the exchange of knowledge. Its artist-in-residence programme, one part of this mission, places Kuwait’s artistic talent in a supportive and immersive framework where they can hone their technique, fuel their inspirations and thrive within the country’s nascent but promising cultural community.
202 Mahmoud Shaker observes a Venetian artist at work in his studio
Ahmed Muqeem’s 2013 oil on canvas works chart the acceleration of the aviation industry in Kuwait
Khaled A Al Najdi’s 2017 oil on canvas works, Obey and Survive and Women at the Balcony
The panel selected the six who they felt would ultimately benefit from this type of support – Amani Althuwaini, Mahmoud Shaker and Zahra Marwan, whose works were on view until August, and Ahmed Muqeem, Khaled A Al Najdi, and Naseer Behbehani whose works are currently being exhibited. “One of the biggest problems that we, as artists, face in Kuwait is the lack of studio space,” says Ahmed Muqeem. “But the residency has overcome this, offering us a much-needed place to work and engage with others from all areas of contemporary artistic practice. There’s a sophisticated social dimension embedded within the initiative that sees outside visitors join the artists in their creative environment, observing studio life and the development of our work – it’s really helped to incite an optimistic public perception of art in Kuwait,” he continues. For the artists, the opportunity to exhibit in Venice, a city whose DNA and waterways flow with art is potentially career-changing. The weight of the Biennale and institutions like Prada Fondazione and Peggy Guggenheim for the Guggenheim Museum draws international art appreciators in their droves, and for this discerning audience, In my dream I was in Kuwait is an exciting window into the country’s heritage and contemporary face. A common thread in the curation is humanity and its fragmented iterations found within Kuwaiti society. Ahmed, a painter inspired by the individuals and instances that impact his world, employs traditional materials, much like those of the Italian masters, to form realistic depictions of his country’s leaders, actors and events. The works on display include oil paintings from 2013 charting the acceleration of aviation in Kuwait, a development that underpins the country’s connectivity with the rest of the world, while a series of 12 portrait works on paper from 2017 celebrate the lineage of Kuwait’s Rulers. “I’ve always been influenced by the techniques of the old Italian Masters,” says the artist. “I’m self-taught, and dedicated much time to reading about the Italian art schools and incorporating the elements that resonated most into my practice. My choice of charcoal, and oil in particular, stemmed from this.” Khaled A Al Najdi, is also a painter but his focus falls into the realm of introspection. He casts an artist’s eye upon the cognitive twists that occur in individuals, articulating their personae upon canvas. His four selected works produced between 2016 and 2017 see paint unite with charcoal, acrylic and oil pastel to explore personifications of negative states of being – sadness, confliction, obnoxiousness, anxiety, unhappiness, dissatisfaction and unsettledness – a reflection of Khaled’s view of the world and the psychological state of its inhabitants. The third in the current exhibition, Naseer Behbehani, moved from drawing to photography in 2006. He felt the medium was able to capture the emotions and definitive
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Ahmed Muqeem’s 2017 charcoal and pastel portraits celebrate the lineage of Kuwaiti rulers
It’s interesting to see how people from different cultures respond to my work. It facilitates fresh ways of understanding that I might not have considered otherwise. Naseer Behbehani
aspects of humanity more closely. Displayed in pairs, his four thought-provoking portraits are a snapshot of the new narratives emerging from Kuwait as it rapidly modernises. The male in a western-style double-breasted blazer, for example, signals sartorial shifts while the artist’s daughter, facing boldly outwards, represents the aspirations and hopes of a new generation. “It’s interesting to see how people from different cultures respond to my work,” says Nasser. “It facilitates fresh ways of understanding that I might not have considered otherwise.” The city as muse has long appeared as an archetype in art history, from Caravaggio’s Syracuse to Keith Haring’s New York. “It’s a place that reshapes your soul in the right way,” says Ahmed. “Walking in Venice, you don’t have to be worried about taking the right direction. It’s beautiful to be lost in the right direction,” he muses. Appreciating the importance of taking the artists out of the confines of their studios, the residency sends them on a journey of visual discovery across the city, proposing encounters with its past, celebrated for artisanal excellence, and a strong dose of its compelling contemporary scene. Over the course of a week, the artists immersed themselves in a series of curated workshops with local Venetian master craftsmen and contemporary creators. Tessitura Bevilacqua works with traditional weaving techniques; artist and glass maker Leonardo Cimolin uses lamp working techniques to produce captivating contemporary glass pieces, while provocative conceptual artist Silvano Rubino is known for his approach that melds glass, photography and installation. Championing the construction of new ideas, and the epiphanies discovered through contrasts and unlikely connections, Heart of Culture stimulates an unprecedented interplay between Kuwait’s artists, Venice’s culturallyloaded environment and shared experience. “During the residency I worked on imagery revolving around day-to-day life in Kuwait, focusing on the beauty of its intricacies,” says Zahra Marwan who currently resides in the US. “My work also focused upon my love for my home and the nostalgia that comes with it. Living in the
Photographer Naseer Behbehani’s striking portraits are displayed in pairs
West and its pool of misconceptions about the Middle East, it’s important to me to share a dialogue of the beauty and complexities of the Arab Gulf, especially since I so often live the micro-aggressions of being a Persian-Arab woman in America,” she continues. And while visitors to the exhibition are compelled to consider the vision of Kuwait’s rising creatives and the communities behind them on a personal level, the exhibition itself excitedly allows an insight into how this privileged chance for immersion bears influence upon the residents’ practices. Heart of Culture: In my dream I was in Kuwait is on display until November 28, 2019 at Scuola dell’Arte dei Tiraoro e Battioro, Campo San Stae, Venice, Italy
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MOJEH CULTURE
LIFE & STYLE
Fashion designer, Haya Jarrar invites MOJEH into her beautifully bohemian Dubai apartment Words by Lucy Wildman Photography by Ausra Osipaviciute
With Teacup Pomeranian Bella, Haya wears pieces from her own SS20 collection
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When Carrie Bradshaw upgraded her apartment in SATC and said, ‘I’ve been cheating on fashion with furniture’, I completely identify with her. Haya Jarrar
Styling: Lucy Wildman
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s one would expect of the home of a fashion designer, Haya Jarrar’s apartment in Dubai’s financial district is a beautifully curated collection of highly-desirable pieces. Exploring multiple design fields during her education in London, taking a degree in fashion design at the London College of Fashion and the Condé Nast College of Fashion, as well as an interior design course at the Inchbald School of Design, the 25-year-old Jordanian’s eye for detail extends not only over the design work for her label, Romani, which she launched in 2018, but also her love of interiors. “I designed the interiors of my apartment myself, which was so much fun. I did an interior design course in London, and I think if I hadn’t gone into fashion, I would have pursued a career in that field instead,” smiles Haya. “I really love furniture.” Haya’s passion for both design disciplines is more than evident on first glimpse inside her spacious apartment. Dominated by a huge portrait of one of Haya’s greatest style inspirations, 1960s fashion icon Brigitte Bardot, which hangs above a vast charcoal grey velvet sofa, Haya admits she has to curtail her spending when it comes to indulging two of her greatest loves. “When Carrie Bradshaw upgraded her apartment in SATC, and said, ‘I’ve been cheating on fashion with furniture’, I completely identify with her. I just love furniture too much! How Carrie feels when she moves into her new place with Big is exactly my situation,” she laughs, comparing herself to the fashion-obsessed central character of the iconic TV show. “Since I launched Romani, I stopped shopping for clothes as regularly, because pretty much everything I wear I’ve designed myself. But when it comes to what I buy for my home, I really have to try hard to make myself stick to a budget, because if I didn’t I’d go crazy buying furniture and decor. I mean, I have to at least try and keep myself grounded. ‘Try’ being the operative word here!” Describing her apartment as bohemian in style, Haya explains that her home is an absolute reflection of her fashion line’s dominant mood and aesthetic – an expression of the free-spirited lifestyle and rebellious nature of a woman with an unapologetic desire to stand out from the crowd. “Gabriella Crespi is undoubtedly my favourite
From Top to Bottom: Cosy reading corners are dotted around Haya’s apartment; elegant acrylic chairs in the dining area; Haya’s favourite sculpture
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A huge portrait of French actress and fashion icon Brigitte Bardot dominates the living room
Haya’s glass coffee table displays her collection of books, and shows off a glamorous zebra-print rug
interiors artist, and her apartment in Milan is one of my favourites in the world,” says Haya of the famed Italian designer who made beautifully-crafted furniture and objects and passed away in 2017, aged 95. “The way she mixed colour and print and silhouettes speaks to me so much – she was so bohemian and free – I just love her taste. Both she and her work has inspired me a lot, not only from a design perspective, but in life in general.” With distinctive similarities between the decoration of Gabriella’s apartment and Haya’s home – animal prints, bold sculptures, luxurious, tactile fabrics and flashes of glamorous metallics are key – the globe-trotting collector trait is very much a shared characteristic between the 25-year-old designer and her artistically-acclaimed Italian muse. “I travel a lot, and have lived in three major cities in my life, so every time I visit a new place or stay in a new hotel and like the design concept, I take a picture and keep it in a folder of inspirational ideas,” says Haya. “If I like the vibe of somewhere, like a restaurant or a boutique I visit, or I see something on Instagram or a blog I follow, I’ll just add that element of inspiration to my home.” An ever-changing design project, Haya says she’s impulsive when it comes to creating her space. “I keep redesigning the apartment every two or three months – it’s just part of my thing about loving furniture too much,” she explains. “I’ve been here for about a year now, and keep buying new pieces and changing the look of the place. I don’t think about what I want to do beforehand. If I see an item and I like it, I base the entire house around my new
Teacup Pomeranian Bella is a fan of the plush, velvet upholstery
Standing by her beloved dining table, Haya wears a suit from her SS20 collection
208 One of Haya’s favourite reading spots is her matching velvet chairs
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My goal in 10 years time, in my future house with my husband, is to have a huge library, so I can continue my love affair with books. Haya Jarrar
Japanese BearBricks act as contemporary bookends
favourite piece.” Inspired by the flawless canvas she had to work with – the apartment is an elegant combination of dark wood floors, white walls and large windows that flood the space with light – Haya’s interior jigsaw puzzle started with her dining table. “When I saw it, I knew immediately that I had to have it,” she says of the circular, heavy wooden piece that works perfectly with the flooring. “It’s exactly how I would design my dream table – it’s very bold and simple, which allows for it to be accompanied by more intricate pieces, like these acrylic chairs inspired by Philippe Starck’s iconic Louis Ghost chair.” Admitting that she doesn’t have a go-to store for buying pieces for her home, preferring to simply pick up items she loves as and when she sees them, Haya does have her eye on one particular new addition – the much-coveted Froisse mirror by Hungarian artist, Mathias Kiss. “For me, it’s a true work of art,” says Haya. “You see your reflection from so many directions. If you look at it from the front, it’s so pretty, like a jewel. Then from the side, it gives a completely different viewpoint. It’s so sharp and rigid, but it has a really deep, cultural meaning behind it. It’s definitely one of my favourite contemporary sculptures.” While most of her most cherished pieces with sentimental value remain at her family home in Amman – “I’m not allowed to take anything, or move anything from the house in Jordan,” she laughs – Haya does have possessions that have moved around the world with her. “Most things in my apartment are relatively new, but I do collect books, and the ones I have really mean something to me,” she says. “I had the books on my coffee table with me when I lived in London and I brought them with me when I moved to Dubai. I have loads of books all over the place – some are on the table, some are on the cabinets, some are by the sofa, some are by my bed... they’re actually everywhere in the apartment. My goal in 10 years time, in my future house with my husband, is to have a huge library so I can continue my love affair with books.” Citing the living room as her favourite room in the apartment, because it contains the majority of her most prized possessions, when she’s not working on her fashion collections, hitting Barry’s Bootcamp for a daily workout or horse riding, Haya likes to chill out here with
Haya’s collection of coffee table books have travelled around the world with her
Haya’s other notable in-house resident is a giant, silver iguana statue, named Tony
her Teacup Pomeranian, Bella, curled up on the sofa with a book, or watching one of her favourite TV shows. “Bella is so spoiled,” she says of her 15-month-old pooch, who happily poses for photographs during the shoot. “She loves to be the centre of attention, so being a model for the day is a dream for her,” she notes as Bella perches on a teal blue velvet chair and stares intently down the photographer’s lens. But canine supermodel-in-training Bella isn’t the only one of Haya’s four-legged friends. Standing guard beside the mashmallow-soft velvet sofa as Brigitte Bardot looks on is Tony, a silver iguana statue that Haya has been the proud owner of for the past three years. Two Japanese BearBricks act as contemporary bookends for her collection of fashion magazines, while an oversized version, modelled on Batman’s arch-enemy The Joker, takes pride of place by the TV. Finally, a stunning horse head bust that resides on the breakfast bar is a nod to keen horse rider Haya’s love of the equine world. Despite having no plans to leave Dubai, Haya’s passion for globetrotting will inevitably lead her to move somewhere in the future. And with her label named after the language of gypsies, and the nomadic ethnic group bound by no specific homeland, Haya and her animal entourage will certainly be exploring the world’s fashion capitals soon. “Maybe Paris or New York,” she smiles, “let’s see.”
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THE MESSAGE
THE MESSAGE
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reast cancer is the most prevalent cancer in women worldwide, with nearly 1.1 million new cases diagnosed each year. In the UAE, it is the most common cancer affecting women, constituting 38 per cent of all female cancers, the incidence of which has steadily increased over the last 30 years. As Breast Cancer Awareness month begins this October, the UAE’s breast cancer awareness initiative, Pink Caravan, is urging private organisations to take part in their Corporate Wellness Days, which feature expert educational sessions, clinical breast examinations and on-site mammogram screenings. “In the past nine years, Pink Caravan has been able to detect more than 73 positive cases after delivering over 64,000 free clinical examinations across all seven emirates,” says Dr. Sawsan Al Madhi, head of Pink Caravan’s Ride Medical and Awareness Committee. “Many of the patients we support have fought and conquered the disease, and are living healthy, happy lives today. Our efforts have only been successful because of the support
and acceptance we have received from all corners of the nation – and while we have accomplished a lot, more still needs to be done. Support from all our public-private partnerships will be utilised into future efforts and initiatives to assist breast cancer patients in the UAE, so we are urging organisations from across the emirates to partake in Pink Caravan’s Corporate Wellness Days to promote a stronger culture of corporate, social responsibility, and potentially save lives.” Running from now until the end of the year, the initiative can accommodate between 40-80 employee screenings per day. “The UAE is determined to bring down cancer fatalities by nearly 18 per cent by 2021, so it’s now more important than ever to double our efforts towards attaining this goal,” says Dr. Al Madhi. “We are calling on our nation’s corporations to continue supporting us in our mission to fight one of the most widespread cancers in the UAE and worldwide.” For more information about Pink Caravan’s Corporate Wellness Days, email: info@pinkcaravan.ae
Photography: Getty Images
Dr. Sawsan Al Madhi, director general of Friends of Cancer Patients and head of Pink Caravan Ride Medical and Awareness Committee, talks to MOJEH about the initiatives taking place in the UAE this Breast Cancer Awareness Month that are helping to save lives
Photographed by Lara Jade
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