MOJEH JEWELLERY & WATCHES ISSUE 4

+41 21 642 32 66 | AUDEMARSPIGUET.COM

TO BREAK THE RULES, YOU MUST FIRST MASTER THEM. THE VALLÉE DE JOUX. FOR MILLENNIA A HARSH, UNYIELDING ENVIRONMENT; AND SINCE 1875 THE HOME OF AUDEMARS PIGUET, IN THE VILLAGE OF LE BRASSUS. THE EARLY WATCHMAKERS WERE SHAPED HERE, IN AWE OF THE FORCE OF NATURE YET DRIVEN TO MASTER ITS MYSTERIES THROUGH THE COMPLEX MECHANICS OF THEIR CRAFT. STILL TODAY THIS PIONEERING SPIRIT INSPIRES US TO CONSTANTLY CHALLENGE THE CONVENTIONS OF FINE WATCHMAKING.

MILLENARY IN PINK GOLD

AUDEMARS PIGUET BOUTIQUES: THE DUBAI MALL | MALL OF THE EMIRATES

Chairman SHAHAB IZADPANAH

EDITORIAL

PUBLISHING

Editor in Chief MOJEH IZADPANAH

Managing Director IVAN DONCIC

Managing Editor NATASCHA HAWKE

Brand Manager KELLY BALDWIN

Deputy Editor ANNIE DARLING

Sales Director NADINE CHEHABEDDINE

Senior Fashion Writer MARY KEENAN

Digital Sales LAURA SOBH

Lifestyle Writer LAURA BEANEY

Senior Publishing Executive DESIREE LABANDA-GAVERIA

Senior Editorial Assistant SOPHIE PASZTOR

Administrative Executive MINA TAGT

Guest Fashion Stylist EDEM DOSSOU

Paris Representative GHISLAIN DE CASTELBAJAC

ART

Advertising Inquiries Tel: +971 4 553 90 49 Email: advertising@mojeh.com

Production and Creative Direction MOJEH MAGAZINE

Subscription Tel: +971 4 553 90 49 Email: subs@mojeh.com

Art Director AMIRREZA AMIRASLANI

Online Division ALI ROMAN

Graphic Designer BALAJI MAHENDRAN

LOUIS FOURTEEN FOR MOJEH

Contributing Photographers MEHMET ERZINCAN RAPHAEL DELORME ELENA LUKYANCHUK BORNA AHADI

Concierge Service Management DAISY MARCHANT Published under HS Media Group FZ LLC Registered at Dubai Design District Building No. 8, Offices 212 P.O.Box 502333, Dubai, UAE.

Cover featuring Winter Leaf Brooches in enamel, titanium and white gold with diamonds, CINDY CHAO

WWW.MOJEH.COM Louis Fourteen for MOJEH Follow us on Twitter @MOJEH_Magazine MOJEH Swiss Representative Office: Rue de Rive 4, 1204 Geneva, Switzerland For the UAE printed by Emirates Printing Press LLC. Distribution- UAE: Al Nisr Distribution LLC. Bahrain: Jashanmal & Sons BSC (C). Oman: United Media Services LLC. Lebanon: Messageries Du Moyen-Orient The publishers regret that they cannot accept liability for error or omissions contained in this publication, however caused. The opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessary those of the publishers. Readers are advised to seek specialist advice before acting on information contained in this publication which is provided for general use and may not be appropriate for the readers particular circumstances. The ownership of trademark is acknowledged, therefore reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. All credits are subjects to change. Copyright HS MEDIA GROUP FZ LLC 2011

INVESTING in

Time Let us help you curate a personalized and luxurious watch collection, a legacy for the next generations.

With attention to every detail, Louis Fourteen aims to go beyond expectations to fulfill your wishes and to make you save time.

At your service 24/7.

Central offices in Dubai. Liaison offices in Geneva, Paris, Milan and Los Angeles.

www.louisfourteen.com

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lifestyle@louisfourteen.com

The online style destination for fine jewellery and haute horlogerie.

FASHION

BEAUTY

The latest jewellery and watch news, insider interviews and expert opinions on how, where and what to buy.

JEWELLERY & WATCHES

Behind-the-scenes access to the ateliers of the world’s most prominent names in fine jewellery.

THE L ATEST

MOJEH.COM

LIFESTYLE

VIDEOS

Original and exclusive firsthand reporting live from key events on the jewellery and watch calendar.

68

BIRTHRIGHT

In recent years push presents have become increasingly popular, transcending cultures and receiving celebrity acclaim.

Here, we examine the rise and reality of post-natal presents.

80

COMPLEX TIMES

Timepieces take on classic and contemporary guises, style simple straps with patterned pieces or dress-up with grown-up tailoring.

90

PURIFIED NOTIONS

Enter into a refined yet spellbinding world of ice whitegold and timeless diamonds. Transition high jewellery pieces across seasons with a pared back palette.

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EXPRESSIONS OF AN ARTIST

Florals in exaggerated proportions dominate dress codes.

Gems in ballooned proportions and trails of winter leaves weave gracefully around the neckline.

122

REGIONAL REVOLUTION

An eye for exquisite jewels has marked the Middle Eastern woman as today’s high jewellery connoisseur, we applaud the fine jewellery fairytale.

Memoris, LOUIS MOINET

152

WHAT HE’S WEARING

Navigating between the swarve, sleek, classic, and contemporary, we take the wrist game up a notch, chartering the finest timepieces of the past year.

194

LEADING ROLE

From Moulin Rouge! to Breakfast at Tiffany’s, some of our most memorable on-screen moments are thanks to precious pieces. Here we celebrate jewellery’s spellbinding cinematic highpoints.

164

INTO THE FUTURE

An industry famed for its age-old

practices, watchmaking is entering into a new renaissance. MOJEH celebrates technology’s explosive impact upon horology’s traditions.

170

HOROLOGICAL HERITAGE

Better known for their extravagant ornamental eggs rather than their

superb watches, Fabergé presents the

Ruban jewellery watch in 18-karat white gold with diamonds, CHANEL

timepiece that could tip the balance.

176

MATERIAL INNOVATION

From chunks of shouldering meteorites

200

FIVE MINUTES WITH…

Adventurer Raha Moharrak is the first

female Arab brand ambassador for TAG

to lumps of fighter aircraft, MOJEH

Heuer. Here we journey with her to the

explores the unorthodox material

top and discover her world of watches.

choices that typify watchmaking’s new era of experimentation.

Elegance is an attitude Simon Baker

The Longines Master Collection

THE GIFT OF TIME

Photographed by Mehmet Erzincan

Opulence has always been at the heart of jewellery and watches, and collectors from the Middle East continue to be among the industry’s most devoted admirers. Myriad talents are flocking to the region, which has, in turn, recently drawn the presence of Sotheby’s Dubai. In Regional Revolution, we speak to David Bennett, Sotheby’s worldwide chairman of jewellery, to discuss the region’s skyrocketing influence.

Meanwhile Raha Moharrak, famous for being the youngest Arab and first Saudi Arabian woman to ascend Mount Everest, tells us about her watch preferences and role as a regional brand ambassador. Furthering our examination of those in the public eye, we look to the royal order of sartorial splendour, and decode the jewellery inclinations of Queen Rania of Jordan in Regional Revolution.

“Of all the gemstones, emeralds in particular have captured the Middle Eastern woman’s attention with their vivid beauty,” reveals Amit Dhamani of Dhamani Jewels, in Emeralds... A Love Story. Scintillating emeralds are seen throughout our photoshoots that showcase David Morris and Cindy Chao’s exceptional creations, while Van Cleef & Arpel’s demonstrates the timelessness of white diamonds in Purified Notions.

Many brilliant timepiece innovators have unveiled exceptional complications and tourbillons over the past year. We summarise the most handsome models, from Panerai’s latest Luminor to Patek Philippe’s 20th anniversary Aquanaut, in What He’s Wearing. We also speak with the region’s most prominent collectors who discuss their favourite timepieces and fondest watch-related memories. Enjoy, and remember, take your time when reading the issue!

Follow me on Twitter and Instagram @Mojeh_I and write to me at editor@mojeh.com

MOJEH IZADPANAH Editor in Chief

EDITOR’S LETTER

EDITOR’S PICKS Spectacular jewels that feature remarkable handpicked decadent diamonds are as enduring as they are opulent. Luxurious structures and excessive sparkle reign supreme, and will certainly stand the test of time.

VISIBLE HOUR PARROT DÉCOR WATCH, CARTIER Rhodiumised 18-karat white gold adorns the elegant case and complex bracelet of Cartier’s high jewellery timepiece. Set with 696 brilliantcut diamonds totalling 20.97 carats, the creation’s delicately curled parrot is perched atop the intricate diamond-studded dial, which swirls with flawless gemstones. Two faceted emeralds totalling 0.05 carats make up the bird’s dainty eyes, while sculpted mother-of-pearl denotes the resting creature’s curved beak. Perfectly suited for those who boast a smaller wrist, the cuff is water-resistant up to 30 metres, making this oneof-a-kind creation as practical as it is beautiful.

HIGH JEWELLERY NECKLACE, SAMA Derived from the Arabic word ‘Sumou’, which means either elevation or splendour, the Sama high jewellery line from Damas reaches new heights of artisanal excellence.

Each unique masterpiece has been magificently manufactured and artfully crafted. Part of a mesmerising three-piece set, this plunging peardrop necklace looks incredibly delicate when worn as a statement piece, and is drenched in diamonds with an impressive total weight of 93 carats. Unparalleled in their beauty and universal appeal, a diamond’s dazzling brilliance is unique, and superbly showcased in this high jewellery creation.

Photographed by Borna Ahadi, styled by Sophie Pasztor

ALAIR BRACELET, DHAMANI An elegant masterpiece, this intricate bracelet is part of Dhamani’s 1969’s Alair Collection, which is notably dear to the luxury maison’s master designer, Luciano Ponticello. Created using hundreds of tiny pear and round-cut diamonds that are superbly interwoven together, the Alair collection is a celebration of the classic diamond and its insatiable appeal. Breathtaking 18-karat white gold upholds a total of 67.36 carats in an undeniably lavish display of ethereal elegance and grace. Flawless and refined, this strikingly polished creation suits those of all styles and backgrounds, and is certainly one that cannot be compared or ignored.

THE EDIT Images courtesy of Cartier

Precious pieces, limited edition collections and custom-made creations.

J E W E L L E R Y & W AT C H E D I T

Cactus de Cartier ring in 18-karat yellow gold with emeralds and carnelians, set with a brilliant-cut diamond of 0.10 carats

PRECIOUS PIECES Cartier’s Highly Precious collection of evening bags see high jewellery pieces as delicate adornments that give new meaning to the bag as an essential accessory.

Cactus de Cartier bag in alligator skin tanned in 24-karat gold dust with cactus clasp of yellow gold, emeralds, carnelians and diamonds that transforms into a brooch

In a world where a phone is also a watch, why shouldn’t a bag also be a high jewellery piece? The concept of the precious evening bag was first introduced by Cartier in the early 1900s and has progressed from elegant styles with clasps encrusted in diamonds and finished in gold, to now transformable brooches and pendants that can be detached and worn as standalone high jewellery accessories.

Cartier’s archives showcase some of the earliest examples of precious evening bags: The 1906 owl head clasp of a chainmail purse, which was finished in rose-cut diamonds and four emerald cabochons; the Tutti Frutti evening bag from 1930 with tassles finished in ruby, emerald and sapphire beads and natural pearls; or the vanity case with cigarette compartment that was decorated in white enamel bands with the initial ‘C’ in diamonds that was rumoured to be a gift from the Duke of Westminster to his mistress Coco Chanel in 1924.

The modern reinterpretation of the precious bag sees the introduction of métier d’art pieces showcasing the finest craftsmanship using materials like peacock feathers and gold dust to create one-of-a-kind works of art that are far more than evening accessories. The new approach features the inspired addition of a high jewellery piece that can be removed and worn resulting in a two-in-one investment buy collectors love.

Created in September 2017, the centrepiece of the high jewellery Lovebirds bag is a white gold, sapphire, emerald and diamond pendant that clips onto the clasp of a piece covered in colourful feathers with an interior of green lambskin. The yellow gold crocodile covered in diamonds and emeralds that clips on to the pleated black satin clutch from July 2016 can be transformed into a brooch. Each piece as unique as the person who chooses to own it.

For those who fell for the successful Cactus de Cartier collection, the most recent Highly Precious editions are elegant structured box bags in alligator skin in mediterranean shades of gold, cactus green and terracota with a Cactus de Cartier brooch acting as the clasp and the cherry on top. A wardrobe investment worth making.

A custom-made Vendôme jewellery trunk would be the ideal home for the Conquêtes high jewellery collection from Louis Vuitton

TRUNK SHOW

Louis Vuitton’s most recent High Jewellery collection, Conquêtes, “pays homage to a conquering, self-assured, seductive woman,” says the brand, which in wake of a year where the global conversation has been geared towards the empowerment of women – through women’s marches to feminist T-shirts – is thoroughly on point.

Just as its narrative would suggest, the collection is full of impactful pieces that speak of success and celebrate the two integral motifs of the maison: the V and the Monogram flower. At the centre of the

collection are three significant necklaces, each showcasing a statement gemstone, among 60 other exceptional pieces.

Inspired by the independent spirit of such a collection, why not create a custommade trunk in which to showcase it, in collaboration with Louis Vuitton’s artisans?

Special Orders are overseen by PatrickLouis Vuitton, a skilled craftsman and fifth generation family member, at the Asnières workshop in France where each year 450 custom-made items are created making even the grandest of dreams come true.

Photography by Marius W Hansen

Louis Vuitton’s exquisite new High Jewellery collection is certainly worthy of its very own display case, and what better way to showcase this exceptional savoir-faire than in a custom-made Vendôme jewellery trunk?

BVLGARI At first glance, the face of Bulgari’s Lvcea Mosaïque watch could be mistaken for a handpainted mosaic, but on closer inspection it is apparent that each tile is, in fact, a tiny metal square. Individually placed on the dial plate, the 700 precisely cut gold squares measure 0.84mm each and are painstakingly handcrafted and positioned to sit, without joints, next to one another to create an uneven surface that reflects the light at all angles creating a shimmer effect.

The process means each watch is absolutely unique.

ASIAN INFLUENCE Inspired by the romance of a Japanese garden in spring, the Shinsei collection by Adler showcases elegant design elements that suggest the curved edges of blossom petals or soft scales of a koi carp that are so inherent in Japanese culture, immortalised in carbon, white and pink gold, and set with emeralds, rubies and diamonds. Available at Istana Jewellers at Four Seasons Resort Dubai at Jumeirah Beach

MOVE WITH MESSIKA To mark the 10th anniversary of Messika’s celebrated Move jewellery collection, model of the moment Gigi Hadid has collaborated on a capsule of limited edition pieces that reimagine the signature line recognised by its three moveable diamonds. Dubbed Move Addiction, the model has injected a contemporary punk edge that will resonate just as well with her millenial followers as it will with Messika’s loyal customer base. Available at Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons

THE WRITE STUFF The Richard Mille mechanical fountain pen takes the watchmaker’s art into new places.

That it costs $105,000 is not the point…

Richard Mille is one of the most creative watchmakers around and some of his creations are at the cutting edge of what the industry is doing right now.

The RMS05 was launched at the 2017 Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie watch fair and while it’s clearly not a watch, it utilises the same technology that Mille puts onto people’s wrists.

Essentially, it’s a mechanical fountain pen that uses watchmaking technology to deploy the nib. Almost like an old William Heath Robinson invention, it’s a complicated way to perform a simple task.

Developed by the brand’s movement creators, the pen took almost four years to research and develop before emerging as an exceptional, highly technological, one-of-a-kind product.

The movement is based on a skeletonised baseplate and bridges made of grade-five titanium. This mechanical heart with 12 jewels powers a captivating display of mechanised kinematics that releases the white gold nib.

The push-button at the end of the pen triggers the baguette movement fitted with a recoil escapement and a barrel.

This escapement, traditionally used in striking watches, releases the head of the nib within seconds in one harmonious mechanical motion.

Replacing the cap raises the barrel in a fraction of a second via a complex mechanism running through the body of the pen.

At the very same moment, the nib delicately retracts, ready to emerge again at the merest touch of the push-button. The pen’s creators also worked on an ingenious method of removing the nib to insert an ink cartridge without damaging the smooth functioning of the mechanism and the pen.

The case is made out of NTPT Carbon, a material with a distinctive finish obtained by superimposing hundreds of layers of carbon using an automatic deposit system that alters the direction of the fibers by 45° between one layer and the next. Heated to 120° in an autoclave similar to those used in the aeronautics industry, the material is ready to be machined by ProArt, the group’s case manufacturer. During this phase, the various NTPT Carbon layers are revealed randomly, making each pen a unique piece.

The mechanical movement is as complex as any Richard Mille calibre making it less a fountain pen, more a piece of art that does something.

DARING DE GRISOGONO

Photography by Laziz Hamani

An opulent mix of Byzantine influence contrasted with Florentine flair, Fawaz Gruosi’s designs for de Grisogono have been talking points since it was established in 1993. The new book de Grisogono: Daring Creativity is narrated by jewellery historian Vivienne Becker and celebrates the statement style that the Swiss jeweller has come to be recognised for. de Grisogono: Daring Creativity, Assouline

TWO FACED

OFF THE CUFF

Still one of the most popular timepieces in the Middle East, the Amadeo Fleurier Monsieur Bovet is a remarkable piece of mechanical engineering that proudly showcases a unique calibre, the Virtuoso II, that allows the display of the hours, minutes and seconds to be seen on both sides. Showmanship at its very best.

A watch is usually considered to be the only jewellery a man can wear, however fine jewellery accents can be applied to a man’s wardrobe in the elegant form of bejewelled cufflinks from Picchiotti (pictured above), or for a less flamboyant addition look to the architectural designs of Mont Blanc or Audemars Piguet.

Tambour Horizon Monogram

TIME TRAVELLER Louis Vuitton’s Tambour Horizon redefines the maison’s approach to the art of travel in a digital age.

Tambour Horizon men’s cruise18

Tambour Horizon women’s cruise18

Travel is at the very heart of Louis Vuitton’s heritage, the eponymous company was founded with the travel trunk after all, so it makes perfect sense that when the maison approaches the topic of time it does so with the traveller in mind. Enter the Tambour Horizon – the rebirth of the Tambour debut watch style first introduced in 2002 – an all-round more in touch, technologically advanced version to suit the digital world and Louis Vuitton’s tech-savvy customers.

Developed in close proximity with Google and Qualcomm Technologies, the Tambour Horizon is a smartwatch for those on-the-go who still crave the connection and reassurance of a heritage name. Useful features for seasoned travellers include ‘My Flight’, unique to the Tambour Horizon it informs departing travellers of flight times, any delays, and journey time remaining until reaching a destination; the display allows for the time zones around the world to be available at the touch of a button, and on arrival to a big city, travellers can access Louis Vuitton’s trusted city guides with a touch of the screen to discover hotels, restaurants and attractions as recommended by experts at the maison – a personal concierge always at hand.

Born from a fashion brand, the timepiece’s style is in keeping with the luxury customer’s desire to be flexible with how it is worn and therefore 60 strap variations are available to ensure wearability – 30 for women, 30 for men.

It is available in three contemporary finishes: graphite, monogram or black, all with the ability to customise the watch face digitally, thanks to Android Wear 2.0 technology, with numerous canvas colours and even the ability to monogram the owner’s initials. Recent additions to the watch face portfolio are two samurai faces in celebration of the cruise18 show held in Kyoto, Japan, for which Louis Vuitton’s creative director Nicolas Ghesquière collaborated with Japanese designer Kansai Yamamoto on prints showcased on dresses and bags, and now the Tambour Horizon.

Carnival Creations Rihanna’s recent additions to her effervescent collection for Swiss jeweller Chopard has seen her draw inspiration from her native Barbados in its totally tropical colours. The Haute Joaillerie collaboration has been an exciting and successful coupling between two of the world’s most recognised names that seems set to continue for the foreseeable future.

Necklace and matching earrings in 18-karat rose gold and titanium set with fancy-cut blue and yellow sapphires, mandarin garnets, sperssatite garnets, topazes, tsavorites and turquoises

Private View The Gallery Collection of fine jewellery pieces from Chanel are a bold interpretation of some of the favoured motifs of the maison. The graphic octagonal shapes seen in the ‘My Green’ selection are reminiscent of the Place Vendôme, one of Coco Chanel’s sources of inspiration, and offer a new statement for followers of the French fashion house.

My Green necklace and ring in 18-karat yellow gold set with emerald-cut tourmalines, carved malachites and brilliant-cut diamonds

Bracelet, Noor Fares | ring, Bil Arabi

THE JEWELS OF ARABIA THE POPULARITY OF MIDDLE EASTERN JEWELLERY DESIGNERS IS ON THE RISE, SO SHOW YOUR

SUPPORT TO REGIONAL GEMS.

JEWELLERY NEWS

NOOR FARES Central Saint Martins graduate Noor Fares was born in Paris but has her roots firmly planted in the Middle East through her Lebanese heritage. Her Rainbow collection demonstrates her love of the fantastical in her use of psychedelic stones, from opal to moonstone.

Available at S*uce Rocks

BIL ARABI A name that needs no introduction, Nadine Kanso’s Bil Arabi grows in popularity with each new collection. Her latest collection, KHATT, derived from the Arabic word for calligraphy, features all 28 letters of the alphabet engraved in rings, decorating bracelets and pendants.

Available exclusively at S*uce Rocks at The Galleria Mall Dubai

NC ROCKS Dubai-based mother-and-daughter team Nadine Hammoud and Cherine Altobaishi draw inspiration from their Middle Eastern heritage and love of abstract art to create their unique aesthetic. The Theory of Geoma is an fusion of art deco edge with ancestral myth.

Available at S*uce Rocks

JOANNA LAURA CONSTANTINE The timeless and contemporary pieces that come out of Lebanese designer Joanna Laura Constantine’s workshop are cherished for their easy-chic appeal.

Her Why Knot collection is a case in point.

Available at Bloomingdale’s-Dubai, Harvey Nichols-Dubai and Ounass.com

NADA G Fine jewellery pieces woven out of 18-karat gold string to form cage-like structures set with diamonds have become the signature of Nada G’s coveted designs.

Available at S*uce Rocks

DONNA HOURANI Certified by the Gemology Institute of America and with a degree in Interior Architecture, Lebanese designer Donna Hourani’s handcrafted creations are made from ethically-sourced materials to create modern pieces for the contemporary woman. Her ear cuffs are a favourite.

Available at donnahourani.com

SUZANNE KALAN Born in Lebanon, Suzanne Kalan’s designs are recognisable for their modern take on Arabic motifs like the Evil Eye fashioned out of clusters of baguette diamonds and 18-karat gold.

Available at Harvey-Nichols-Dubai

AZZA FAHMY Egyptian designer Azza Fahmy’s collections are recognisable instantly for their use of Arabic script and motifs woven into her designs. The 12-piece Culture Collection fuses Egyptian, Greco-Roman and Victorian influences.

Available at Harvey Nichols-Dubai

JOANNA DAHDAH Based in Lebanon, Joanna Dahdah cut her teeth in jewellery design at Central Saint Martins in London, before being snapped up by Swarovski. Her eponymous line consists of delicate charms and modern shapes.

Available at joannadahdah.com

RALPH MASRI With collections named Phoenician Script and Arabesque Deco it is easy to see how much Ralph Masri’s heritage inspires his work, creating modern interpretations of symbolic shapes with diamonds, gemstones and 18-karat white gold.

Available at Harvey Nichols-Dubai

Hermès has long been a proponent of traditional artisanal crafts, seen here in the form of the Marche du Zambèze watch

T H E D E TA I L

WORKS of

ART

Hermès creates art on the dials of their new watches with a limited-edition hand-painted collection.

I

n close conjunction with the Hermès maison itself, artists delicately apply pigments and colours with the tip of their brush to a dial made of enamel, mother-ofpearl and – even more surprisingly – from camel bone, to meticulously create Persian miniature paintings on what will be the watch faces for four limited series.

The brand says this age-old oriental technique is all about subtle alchemy. First between the bone powder and a resin, which forms the dial base. It’s a porous surface that absorbs the colours, entirely made from natural pigments: saffron, walnut, henna, pomegranate, lapis lazuli, turquoise, gold leaf and silver leaf.

Then comes the turn of two motifs, each inspired by a silk scarf: Dans un Jardin Anglais by Alice Shirley; and Promenade de Longchamp by Philippe Ledoux. Gum Arabic (acacia gum) is used to mix the designs in place, before the miniatures are safely protected with a discreet layer of varnish.

This all works in conjunction with the watchmakers of Manufacture Hermès, who create the movements, cases and straps, thus representing tributes to numerous creative talents.

By giving carte blanche to an artist, Hermès have ensured that each watch is unique.

In a bold move, Vacheron Constantin unveils is most complicated wristwatch to date

Why does this watch cost

$1 MILLION Vacheron’s Les Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600 is more than a watch. It’s a piece of art.

THE TIMEPIECE

Here’s what Vacheron Constantin says about their latest timepiece...

CALIBRE Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin, the calibre 3600 movement boasts approximately three weeks of power reserve. With 514 components and 64 jewels in all, it’s an impressive 36mm in diametre and 8.7mm in thickness.

INDICATIONS A transparent sky chart of the northern hemisphere, complete with a map of the Milky Way, is one of many captivating functions, which include “the tripletime civil, solar and sidereal displays powered by three distinct gear trains, including a ‘tropical’ gear train dedicated to all the solar functions.”

STRAP

CASE This beautifully sculpted 18-karat white gold 45mm diametre caseback measures just 13.6mm in thickness and is married with transparent sapphire crystal, which has been water resistance-tested at a pressure of 30 metres.

DIAL “Swept over by a pair of white gold open-tipped hands, civil (or standard) time is read off in the traditional manner on the front dial,” while dramatic slatecoloured opaline is adorned with 18-karat gold applied hour-markers and hands.

A handsome ebony-black Mississippiensis alligator leather bracelet with alligator inner shell is hand-stitched, saddlefinished and decorated with an 18-karat white gold pin buckle clasp that’s polished into a half-Maltese cross shape.

W

atchmakers like to impress other watchmakers as well as the public. It’s like an ultra-polite arms race taking place in neutral Switzerland with all the different manufacturers creating increasingly impressive mechanical watches.

Earlier this year, Vacheron Constantin unveiled its most complicated wristwatch to date. The piece has taken five years to design and build and is the work of one master watchmaker. Inside there are 514 components yet, incredibly, it measures just 8.7mm in thickness. There are three weeks of power reserve and it has (most impressively of all) a staggering 23 complications.

A combination of exquisite astronomy and complex timekeeping, the Vacheron Les Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600 provides time in three modes: civil, solar and sidereal, each with its own gear train.

Here’s how the brand described the workings: “Epitomising the peak of horological mastery, this unique timepiece equipped with a wealth of astronomical complications united within an incredibly small area represents an impressive sum of knowledge, calculations and fine adjustments.”

In addition, a celestial chart of the northern hemisphere has been created on the back of this mechanical masterpiece.

Indicating the constellations, the Milky Way as well as projections of the celestial equator and the ecliptic, this sky map was devised in an innovative way involving two superimposed sapphire discs.

In fact, this entire publication could be dedicated to explaining all the details that are somehow housed within the slim casing of this timepiece. It’s genuinely impressive.

So there you have it. That’s why this one-of-a-kind watch holds an estimated value of more than USD 1 million.

HIGHLIGHTS DUBAI WATCH WEEK Each year, Dubai Watch Week hosts key industry spokespeople and leading horological personalities. As the event’s director, Melika Yazdjerdi and her team are passionate about celebrating the timepiece industry’s skill, innovation and craftsmanship.

MOJEH sits down with Melika Yazdjerdi, director of Dubai Watch Week

Tell us about Dubai Watch Week.

When we first created Dubai Watch Week our objective was to connect seasoned connoisseurs with master craftsmen and watchmakers; give novice collectors the opportunity to learn more about the remarkable craft of watchmaking; and inspire a new generation of watch enthusiasts. Now, we’re proud to be recognised as the world’s first and only non-commercial watch event that is dedicated to not only educating the wider public, but also preserving horological culture and heritage.

How do you get non-collectors interested in the elusive world of watches?

Education and cultural exchange is at the heart of Dubai Watch Week. This year continues to focus on the transmission of knowledge by ensuring we have a diverse assembly of people who contribute their time in order to share their expertise, whether in the form of watchmaking or commenting on industry issues.

How has the region’s interest in timepieces developed over the last few years?

We continue to foster the growing interest of collectors and watch lovers in the region. Our focus has remained on promoting the talent and skill of the craftsmen and women that dedicate their lives to the pursuit of horological perfection. Currently, the Middle Eastern region is a significant segment of the international watch community - it accounts for an impressive 49 per cent of Swiss watch exports.

Why Dubai?

We’re committed to establishing this emirate as a global destination for the education of fine watchmaking and horological craft.

‘Classic and Contemporary’ was the theme for 2017’s event. Tell us about this concept.

We wanted to pick a theme that would highlight the best of traditional techniques, but would still encompass modern innovation. We observed that many brands had adopted an increased number of heritage aesthetics when presenting new models this year so we were confident that our theme would be attractive to both participating brands and visitors alike.

THE INTERVIEW

Dubai Watch Week connects seasoned timepiece collectors with master craftsmen

What are your thoughts on watch models that have been specifically designed for the Middle East?

Middle Eastern-inspired watches combine the region’s cultural identity and exceptional craftsmanship into a single piece. Watch fans are able to purchase a timepiece that allows them to relate closely to the brand and experience inclusion and acknowledgement from the brand owners that they admire and appreciate.

So these models increase a watch connoisseur’s loyalty to a specific maison?

They certainly create a more intimate and personal attachment between the two parties. Additionally, they increase the exclusivity and rarity of each watch, immediately rendering it a more valuable piece.

How does Dubai Watch Week positively impact the Middle East as a whole?

This event leverages on the region’s solid foundation and

establishes a platform of education and networking for the regional watch community and international figures alike.

It also reinforces the emirate’s vision in establishing Dubai as a key destination for knowledge, culture and innovation.

The importance of UAE as a key market will remain the driving force behind our strategy for Dubai Watch Week over the next four years.

Speaking of the future, how would you like to see the event develop over the next few years?

We aim to grow Dubai Watch Week into the region’s foremost event dedicated to watches, watchmaking and horology.

Tell us about next year’s edition.

Our fourth edition will celebrate ‘Connectivity and Creation’, whereby we plan on examining how the watch industry has evolved over the past 100 years through technolgical advancements. We’ll also look at what the future holds for fine watchmaking.

F

Photographed by Borna Ahadi Styled by Sophie Pasztor

Designers look to redefine jewellery with contemporary panache, removing preconceived notions that fine jewellery be relegated to special occasions only.

Here we illustrate the way in which modern designs and traditional aesthetics fuse together into one streamlined look.

RESH PERSPECTIVES

W AY S T O W E A R

LESSONS IN LAYERING Layer your arms with an excess of wristwear from bracelets to timepieces.

This more is more mantra allows for a stronger and highly personalised style.

Keep things cool by mixing up metals: pair gold with silver, and gunmetal with rose, while also experimenting with proportions.

Dots ring in 18-karat white rose gold set with white diamonds totalling 1.39 carats, GLOW JEWELLERY at S*uce Rocks | La Mini D de Dior Satine watch, DIOR TIMEPIECES | Spiral watch featuring a 19mm case with pavĂŠ-set diamonds and a white motherof-pearl dial, GRAFF

PRECIOUS PAIRINGS The distinctive design in de Grisogono’s Allegra collection plays into fantasy, where interwoven spirals lock together to create a magical union. Juxtaposing gold and ceramic in one unique hybrid, each piece challenges the traditional notion of evening jewellery.

Allegra earrings in white gold and black nano ceramic avional with 174 white diamonds totalling 4.35 carats | Allegra Toi & Moi ring in white gold with 152 white diamonds totalling 1.55 carats | Allegra choker in white gold with 326 white diamonds totalling 10.25 carats, all DE GRISOGONO

ARM CANDY Evening soirees call for statement wristwear. Go big with pavĂŠ diamonds that glisten in the dark, or opt for stately designs that provide a strong architectural edge.

Left to right: Allegra bracelet in pink gold with 371 white diamonds totalling 13.60 carats, DE GRISOGONO | Paris Nouvelle Vague bracelet in pink gold with diamonds, CARTIER

PUNK BEAUTY Take an alternative approach to your jewellery and navigate towards edgy, powerful pieces that shy away from the more romantic styles. Go bold with a graphic ear cuff in gunmetal or look towards Cartier’s Juste un Clou collection for tough design details.

Berbere earring with 4 rings in black gold, REPOSSI at Istana Jewellers | Juste un Clou necklace in yellow gold, CARTIER

BARE BONES Bring the art of watchmaking into plain sight. Skeleton watches are perfect for men who appreciate both the appearance of stylish watches and the craftsmanship that goes into making them. Look to novelties that present bare bones through intricately executed openworked movements, which seamlessly blend classic and contemporary aesthetics.

Master Graff Skeleton watch in pink gold with white diamonds, GRAFF

THE SILHOUETTE Replace cocktail rings that are adorned with large statement stones with sleeker styles that offer a new silhouette, and architectural pieces that extend along the finger.

Berbere ring with eight lines in pink gold and Berbere Module ring with 6 lines in pink gold, REPOSSI at Istana Jewellers

EXPRESS YOURSELF Curate your office look with a thoughtful edit of pieces that illustrate your eye for detail, such as beautifully crafted cufflinks or an exquisite ballpoint pen. Let each item be one of self-expression, revealing preferences of colour and design.

Tank Cintrée watch in pink gold, CARTIER | White gold cufflinks featuring 30.42 carats of cat’s eye gemstones, a crystal and platinum ring with a 13.13-carat cat’s eye gemstone, DHAMANI | 1969 Meisterstück solitaire-blue hour midsized ballpoint pen, MONTBLANC

THE EVOLUTION Fine jewellery takes on the characteristics of contemporary fashion jewellery, offering an unusual edge while incorporating luxe materials that work to elevate each piece.

Stylish cuffs and chokers offer an urban edge that is not often associated within the illustrious realm of fine jewellery.

Tribal bangle in 18-karat yellow gold encrusted with diamonds totalling 0.72 carats, L’ATELIER NAWBAR at S*uce Rocks | Serpenti Viper ring in pink gold with pavé diamonds and Serpenti Viper ring in white gold with pavé diamonds, BVLGARI | Tilsam choker in rose quartz with grey gold and white diamonds totalling 0.38 carats, NOOR FARES at S*uce Rocks | White gold orange enamel earrings, THE JEWEL TELLER at S*uce Rocks

THE HYBRID Watches serve dual purpose, as function meets form. Look to novelties such as Bulgari’s Serpenti watch that commands attention through its aesthetics, elegantly coiling around the wrist for a statement like no other.

Serpenti Viper ring in white gold with pavĂŠ diamonds, Serpenti watch with five-loops steel bracelet, steel case and black dial, BVLGARI

Model: Maya O at The AgenC Hair and Makeup: Alexandra Gillespie Photography assistant: Princes Vinarao

NAEEM KHAN

WOMEN’S TRENDS

Compiled by Sophie Pasztor

THE MASHUP

Mixing metals is no longer taboo. Designers are embracing contrasting shades of white, yellow and rose gold. Whether you opt to stack a single-hued necklace over another in a contrasting metal, or look for pieces that take the guesswork out of styling, offering a hybrid of colour variations in one innovative design, layering and experimentation is the key to success.

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1. LIALI JEWELLERY | 2. CHAUMET | 3. LA MARQUISE | 4. CARTIER | 5. LUISA ROSA at S*uce Rocks

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ALBERTA FERRETTI

OPPOSITES ATTRACT

A colour combination that has long stood the test of time in fashion now transitions into the fine jewellery realm. The striking appearance of black and white stones makes for a powerful statement – best worn in an evening setting. Look to designers such as Chanel, de Grisogono and Bina Goenka, who call upon expert artisans to seamlessly balance opposing shades with clever design.

1. DE GRISOGONO | 2. CARTIER | 3. BOUCHERON | 4. CHANEL | 5. GILAN

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ETRO

BOHEMIAN RHAPSODY

Find a sense of rhapsody and broaden your jewellery scope with an eclectic mix of colourful gemstones in varying vibrant hues. Focus should be kept on the finer details, so navigate towards ornately designed pieces that showcase intricate and clever metalwork for elegance and refinement. Play with proportions by layering a long necklace over a choker, or stack numerous rings for a contemporary touch.

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1. NOUDAR JEWELLERY | 2. VERSACE | 3. BINA GOENKA | 4. CHOPARD 5. SHEEN at S*uce Rocks | 6. ROBERTO COIN

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MARY KATRANTZOU

FLORAL MASTERCLASS

The flower motif is in full bloom, with literal interpretations of varying floral formations decorating all types of jewellery. Look for intricate and life-like flowers – dainty leaves and bright bouquets – on earrings, necklaces, bangles and rings. Although it might seem an obvious choice, this feminine design is a timeless emblem that will inject a hefty dose of everlasting romance into your look.

1. DIOR | 2. CARTIER | 3. VAN CLEEF & ARPELS | 4. CINDY CHAO | 5. CHAUMET | 6. ROBERTO COIN

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PURCHASING

POWER

The number of women self-purchasing fine jewellery is on the rise, MOJEH investigates.

Words by Mary Keenan

Whether unravelling a meticulously tied red Cartier ribbon or lifting off the iconic duck egg-blue lid of a Tiffany’s box, there’s no doubt that there’s a special kind of thrill that comes with removing a new piece of jewellery from its packaging for the first time. But what brings a greater sense of satisfaction, opening up a piece that’s a gift from someone else or an item that you’ve bought for yourself? Traditionally, a woman’s relationship with fine jewellery has almost always been associated with the notion of gifting – thanks to countless marketing campaigns, advertisements and movies, we’ve grown accustomed to thinking that jewellery is a gift given to a woman by a significant other or her family for Valentine’s Day, anniversaries, birthdays and other milestones. However, over the past few years there’s been a marked shift. Women are no longer passive consumers but are, in fact, driving a significant trend in which they self-purchase their own fine jewellery pieces.

With the number of women in the global workforce continuing to grow year upon year and their roles within

the workplace and society continuing to develop, women have a much larger purchasing power than ever before.

“Women’s expanding roles within society and increases in their financial stability are creating new motivations for acquiring jewellery and driving the level of self-purchase,” explains Mayfairbased jeweller, Jessica McCormack.

“It’s a powerful and symbolic thing to purchase jewellery for yourself. Women trust their own tastes and are therefore more confident about purchasing their own fine jewellery, which is now being purchased to celebrate a range of occasions and milestones such as a new job, promotion and other personal achievements.”

De Beers’ Diamond Insight report for 2017 highlights three main factors that they believe are contributing to the growth of the self-purchasing female demographic. The first being a transformation in relationship dynamics. “Partnerships are now much more about the growth of the two equal individuals, as much as they are about the growth of the partnership itself,” the report states. The second key

TA L K I N G P O I N T

contributor is an increase in spending power: “Women now have much more spending power than they did in previous generations and there is a much higher degree of self-purchase than before.”

De Beers attribute a positive change in the way women perceive themselves as the final driver. “While there are distinct views in different countries, one constant is that womanhood is becoming more closely associated with a sense of strength and empowerment.” These insights are widely echoed throughout the fine jewellery community.

“A significant percentage of our clients are women who are buying for themselves,” says Francois Graff. “Many enjoy buying statement jewellery for themselves, such as our striking earrings or cocktail rings.”

But it’s not just about celebrating milestones. A study released by market research company Mintel demonstrated that in the United States, self-purchasing women are driving the sales of fine jewellery through one-off ‘just because’ purchases. Their report published in September states: “Women are integral to the success of this category. They not only buy more items in total – for themselves and as gifts – but they are also far more likely than men to buy items as a treat.” At Bonhams, self-purchasing women have a strong presence at jewellery auctions. “Many of our female buyers are financially independent coming from successful professional careers – this number has been steadily growing into the 21st Century – and is a growth trend we fully expect will continue,” says Henry Bailey, a specialist at Bonhams Fine Jewellery department in London. “Men continue to buy women jewellery as gifts throughout our sales – however many of our female buyers take a discerning interest in personally managing their own jewellery collections – and purchasing at auction through their own means, rather than having jewellery bought for them.”

Over the page, MOJEH meets four regionally-based women with unique insights into the self-purchasing female.

Baroque Beauty photographed by Alvaro Beaumud Cortes, MOJEH Issue 23

WOMEN TODAY ARE STRONG AND INDEPENDENT - THEY HAVE

FATIMA ABDULLAH AL HENDI 32, Emirati, Television presenter

Bulgari’s Serpenti Necklace is currently at the top of Fatima’s wishlist

“Jewellery is part of being a woman,” Fatima Abdulla Al Hendi informs MOJEH. The Emirati television presenter has an incredible jewellery collection – both self-purchased and gifted – which she has built up since her teenage years.

“I am a firm believer that women should buy 50 per cent of their jewellery because it’s a very nice way to feel independent and reward yourself after achieving something big in life or celebrating something which is dear to your heart. When you look at a certain piece of jewellery that you have bought, it will remind you of your achievements – instead of someone else getting that certain piece for you,” she advises.

Inspired by her mother’s love of jewellery growing up, Fatima’s own realtionship with jewellery began when she was a teenager.

“The most memorable piece I bought myself was a pair of earrings that I really wanted. I had begged my parents to buy them for me and they refused, so I saved and saved and I never gave up, and finally, I got them,” she recalls with a smile.

“They were white pearl Alhambra earrings by Van Cleef. I felt such an accomplishment when I got them and I still wear them proudly today, they’re one of my most favourite pieces.” While a strong proponent for self-purchasing women, Fatima also recognises the romance and significance of receiving jewellery from a partner or husband.

“It is, of course, a nice gesture when your husband, partner or fiancé gifts you a piece of jewellery that will always hold sentimental value, but we can’t depend on a man to get us all our jewellery,” she warns. “I’m all for a man to gift his lady on a special occasion – I still expect and wait for my husband to surprise me every now and then, but if I fall in love with a piece that calls out to me I will go ahead and buy it.

Women today are strong and independent – they have careers and jobs and are financially stable so they can afford to buy jewellery for themselves.

If you really love something and you can afford it, go for it.”

Photographed by Borna Ahadi in Dukes Dubai

CAREERS AND JOBS

ILKE SHAH 40, Turkish, Founder and creative director, Limelite Jewellery

“The whole reason I started my business was to cater to women who are buying jewellery for themselves,” Dubai-based entrepreneur Ilke Shah explains. “I always say my business philosophy is to create a husband-free zone and husbandfree jewellery,” she laughs. “It’s not like women only wear their solitaire and wedding band these days, jewellery is just as much a part of an outfit as shoes, bags and clothes – so if it’s good quality, affordable and they’re happy with their purchase then they’ve made a wise decision which they shouldn’t have to justify.”

Having recognised a gap in the market for high quality, yet reasonably priced fine jewellery pieces, Ilke launched Limelite from her Palm Jumeirah home in early 2016 and business is booming. “I think being able to buy your own jewellery is a form of freedom and it’s a very feminist action. Historically, it always used to be a man’s decision – women would get what they were given and wear it regardless of whether they actually liked it or not. In this day and age, I think men should buy jewellery for women to some degree, but it’s fantastic that women are now economically independent, can treat themselves and choose pieces that resonate with who they are and their personal tastes,” she

BEING ABLE TO BUY YOUR OWN JEWELLERY IS A FORM OF FREEDOM

muses. With the majority of her clients being selfpurchasing women, Ilke has a direct insight into their purchasing habits. “My clients like to treat themselves, they want to have fun with the way they look,” she says. “There doesn’t always have to be a special occasion or something for them to warrant buying a nice piece of jewellery, which is where they differ from men who will usually buy a piece of jewellery as a gift for a birthday or anniversary.”

Ilke has also bought many of the pieces that make up her personal jewellery collection. “I always value the things that I’ve bought for myself more and end up wearing them the most,” she explains.

“Right now my favourite piece is the Travelling Butterfly Ring from my own brand. I wear it everyday and I love it – it reminds me of how far I’ve come and that things are going very well.”

Ilke’s favourite piece of jewellery is the Butterfly ring from her own collection

FINE JEWELLERY IS DEFINITELY EVOLVING – IT DOESN’T ALWAYS MEAN DIAMONDS

FLEUR YENNECK-BUTCHER 28, British, founder of Fleur’s Finds and qualified goldsmith and gemologist

The Uhada Fortress earrings from Fleur’s Finds

“I’ve been obsessed with jewellery from a very young age,” smiles Fleur Yenneck-Butcher. “I still have the first piece I ever bought,” she recalls.

“I was 11-years-old and on summer holiday in France with my twin sister. We had pocket money that we’d saved up all summer as there was nothing to buy there and we went to this tiny jewellery shop, which had a sale on and there were these small amethyst 18-karat gold star pendants that we fell in love with and we decided we had to have them as a little twin token.

I still wear mine with other charms.” Founder of Fleur’s Finds, an online fine jewellery platform

that offers a highly curated edit of unique designs from original and emerging jewellers from around the world, around 75 per cent of all transactions on the site are made by selfpurchasing women. “Women’s purchasing power is growing every year and rapidly,” notes Fleur.

“This is because today they have more brilliant careers and go further up the ladder than ever before, resulting in the freedom of financial independence.” She cites the development of the definition of fine jewellery as another factor in the rise of self-purchasing consumer. “Fine jewellery is definitely evolving – it doesn’t always mean diamonds and huge costs anymore, very often a unique or special piece of fine jewellery costs less than a designer handbag or pair of shoes. Funnily enough with those kinds of purchases, women tend not to think twice about it and they’re always quite willing to spend on them. My female clients like to treat themselves – sometimes it can be for no particular reason, but women are also more likely to celebrate the smaller milestones, such as a promotion.” Fleur also purchases pieces for herself. “There’s no better feeling than having saved up for a piece that you love. Regardless of your job, if you’ve saved up the money and that piece that you haven’t been able to stop thinking about is yours, it’s a token of hard work and appreciation for yourself. Having a man buy that for you takes away that feeling of pleasure.”

ADELYA BAKHTIYAROVA 32, Kazakh, founder and creative director, Adelya Jewellery

“I think when you buy a piece of jewellery for yourself without having to consult your other half, you begin to feel a sense of financial independence,” explains Adelya Bakhtiyarova, who launched her own jewellery brand Adelya Jewellery in 2013 after studying at the International Gemological Institute. “Further to that, you appreciate the piece more. A lot of men struggle to make the correct choice when they buy a gift for their other half, which creates the problem of getting something that won’t be appreciated as much by the woman and therefore won’t be worn or used as much. This is an issue that the majority of my clients tell me that they have experienced over the years.”

According to the jewellery designer, a solid 90 per cent of her customer base consists of women buying pieces for themselves, which is something that she attributes to women becoming more independent consumers, as well as a big increase in the demand for affordable fine jewellery, which is being met on a global scale. “You see this so often in the UAE where there are a lot of professional women making the most of the tax-free salaries the region has to offer. They therefore have a higher disposable income than their peers in Europe as a result.

MEN STRUGGLE TO MAKE THE CORRECT CHOICE WHEN THEY BUY A GIFT FOR THEIR OTHER HALF

However they want to have options when it comes to price without compromising on quality.

My brand offers a number of collections across a variety of price points, which means that there are plenty of pieces with more accessible prices that can be worn with other items for everyday wear that I would not necessarily call investment pieces, but rather trend-based pieces. I also have a range of pieces that are very high end, which are better suited to customers who are looking to buy themselves a standout piece to mark a special occasion or significant milestone.”

No stranger to purchasing pieces for herself, Adelya’s latest acquisition was a pair of emerald marquise-shaped earrings set with pear-shaped diamonds, which she designed as a gift to herself to mark her 32nd birthday.

Adelya has her eye on a pair of Van Cleef & Arpel’s Alhambra earrings

HOW TO BUY AT AUCTION Jean Ghika, head of jewellery at Bonhams UK & Europe, talks MOJEH through eight fundamental steps to buying at auction.

DO YOUR RESEARCH Start by looking at past auction catalogues online as these will also show the prices realised. This will give you a flavour of the type of pieces likely to come up at auction and what you can expect to pay.

GET A SNEAK PEEK A public viewing is held four days prior to each sale where all items are displayed to view and try on.

READ THE FINE PRINT It’s possible to obtain a condition report on each lot, which provides a detailed account of the piece including specific information about diamonds. It will also highlight any repair or damage.

These reports can be obtained via email as well as in person.

REGISTER TO BID Before the auction you’ll need to go through a simple registration process, after which you’ll be issued a paddle. Then it’s a question of being patient and persistent!

12 34 56 78 THE EXPERT

MARK YOUR CALENDAR All our auction dates for the year are published on our website approximately two to three weeks before each sale. The online catalogue is also available to view online.

TALK TO AN EXPERT Specialists will be available throughout the public viewing to answer questions about the condition, quality and history of any piece.

CHOOSE A METHOD If you’re an auction novice, it’s always nice to try and attend the sale in person, you are then able to gauge the pace of the auctioneer and see the levels of interest firsthand. If this is not possible, bidding by either telephone or online is the next best thing.

PURCHASE WISELY Always buy something you love and want to wear. What’s equally important – buy the best quality you can afford within your allotted budget.

POINTS OF NOTE THE GRAFF PINK Fancy intense pink diamond, 24.78 carats Sold for USD 46,158,674 USD 1,862,739 per carat Sotheby’s Geneva, November 2010 World auction record price for a fancy intense pink diamond

THE BLUE MOON OF JOSEPHINE Fancy vivid blue diamond weighing 12.03 carats Sold for USD 48,468,158 USD 4,028,941 per carat Sotheby’s Geneva, November 2015 World auction record price per carat for any diamond and gemstone

TROMBINO RING Fancy deep blue diamond weighing 5.30 carats Sold for GPB 6,201,250 USD 1.8million per carat Bonhams London, April 2013 World record price per carat for a fancy deep blue diamond at auction

THE HOPE SPINEL Large octagonal step-cut spinel, weighing 50.14 carats, by direct descent from the extraordinary collection of Henry Philip Hope (1774-1839) Sold for GBP 962,500 USD 30,000 per carat Bonhams London, September 2015 World record price per carat for a spinel at auction

THE SUNRISE RUBY An extremely rare Burmese ruby and diamond Cartier ring weighing 25.59 carats Sold for CHF 28,250,000 Sotheby’s London, May 2015 World record for a ruby at auction, as well as for any jewel by Cartier

PAUL NEWMAN DAYTONA Paul Newman’s personal Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Sold for USD 17.75 million Phillips New York, October 2017 World record price for a wristwatch

BIRTHRIGHT As high jewellery push presents become an increasingly prevalent consideration among new parents, MOJEH uncovers the origins and examine the rise to contemporary celebrity status.

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eclining on sun-bleached decking, I while away the hours covering both old and new ground with my best friend, who recently gave birth. As she gently rocks her pram backwards and forwards I cant help but admire the new 18-karat gold handmade necklace by Jennifer Meyer sitting neatly on her neck. It’s twinkling with diamonds that form the initial of her beautiful baby daughter: ‘N’ for Noor. “It’s my push present!” she beams. It’s a term I was unfamiliar with, but it turns out that while living in my ‘single girl’ bubble I’d been oblivious to an age-old gift-giving practice that’s steadily on the rise.

So what exactly does my friend’s new sparkler signify?

Push presents, push gifts or baby baubles, as they’re commonly referred to, are different terms for the same concept: A gift that a husband bestows upon his wife after she ‘pushes’ out the baby (this is not to exclude wives who deliver by cesarean section, of course). Despite my ignorance, this concept isn’t even new, and was previously practised in various cultures for thousands of years. The act of giving a gift to a new mother can be traced back to both England and India before other European countries, and then later North America adopted the ceremony.

Archaeological evidence suggests than men have been honouring new mothers with gifts for thousands of years, with artefacts dating as far back as the 1700s.

These gifts typically came in the form of either jewellery or land because, at the time, it was important to men that their significant others had accessible wealth should they need to support themselves and their newborn during a turbulent time when males could be called up for battle at any moment.

But it was not until recent years that push presents really became a modern day trend. In a recent survey of 8,000 women conducted by Today Parents it was revealed that 45 per cent of respondents were aware but not fans of the concept, while 28 per cent wanted a push present and only 26 per cent were unaware of the term’s meaning. We can pin the recent proliferation down, at least in part, to the massive uptake by celebrity culture. While pregnant with her second child, Saint, Kim Kardashian West suggested on her

website that a Lorraine Schwartz diamond choker would sufficiently mark the arrival of her new son.

“I like the idea of a push present – after nine months of pregnancy it’s a sweet and well-deserved thank you,” she wrote. “This pregnancy, I would love a Lorraine Schwartz diamond choker like the ones I’ve worn before to the Art + Film Gala.” Of course, her wish was granted and publicised in April with a series of Instagram photographs that flaunted one of Schwartz’s highly-expensive designs. Stylist Rachel Zoe’s gift was equally attention grabbing. In 2011 she welcomed the birth of her son, Skyler, with a 10-carat cushioncut diamond ring by fine jeweller Neil Lane, while singer Mariah Carey famously showcased a AED 44,000 14-carat diamond and pink sapphire necklace from her then-husband, Nick Cannon, upon delivery. Not one to be outshone, after Beyoncé gave birth to Blue Ivy Carter, her extravagant push present made headlines as Jay-Z bestowed upon her an aptly coloured 10-carat blue tanzanite ring, worth an estimated AED 129,000.

Indeed, post-natal gifting is not an entirely new concept but it is becoming increasingly expected that the present will involve some expensive jewellery, but is the celebrity price tag warranted? As the stats suggest, the idea is divisive, having been met by both acceptance and irritation, with many mothers arguing that their baby alone should be gift enough, while others insist that they should be rewarded for the physical and emotional duress that pregnancy entails.

The term ‘push present’ could be part of the problem.

It comes across as an easy and breezy way to package what should be a significant, emotion-filled gesture.

But as today’s husbands become increasingly involved in the pre- and post-natal processes, it seems that they are becoming more sympathetic to what soon-to-be mothers go through during pregnancy and delivery.

Following celebrity trends does, of course, fall short when it comes to our celebrating our loved ones but, as with everything, it’s the intention that counts. If, like my friend’s partner, the purpose is to thank and cherish the mother for carrying their baby for 9.5 months, for enduring morning sickness and for sleepless nights, then an 18-karat gold momentum can go along way.

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Photographed by Michelle Ferrara at Trunk Archive

Words by Laura Beaney

Having been propelled into the spotlight by shine-addicted celebrities, high jewellery push presents are becoming an increasingly common practice

Toby Bateman, managing director of Mr Porter, is one of the most influential names in fashion and, now, timekeeping

THE INTERVIEW

PREPARED FOR

GREATNESS MOJEH speaks to Toby Bateman, managing director of Mr Porter, to learn more about the e-tailer’s expansion into fine watches.

Not unlike Net-a-Porter, its sister site aimed at affluent Instruments collection, specifically the WW1. BR 123 women with a penchant for splendour and high and BR 126 Chronograph timepieces. To celebrate living, over the past few years e-tailer Mr Porter has the illustrious label’s debut on Mr Porter, the online reimagined the luxury e-commerce experience for platform invited watch expert Robin Swithinbank men. It has undoubtedly become the prevailing online to participate in its new video series named, ‘Tick Talk’. destination for premium menswear, largely because Producing engaging and educational editorial content of its carefully curated selection of designer wares, on men’s style has long been Mr Porter’s bread which provide discerning gentlemen with the most and butter. Not only do the articles and videos get modern and wearable garments currently on offer. people coming back to the site more regularly, but it It, therefore, made sense that in 2013, the beloved enhances their customer’s knowledge about luxury digital platform announced style. The latter is, obviously, key to good watch collecting, that it had decided to develop its upscale offerings with and Mr Porter claims it has a selection of highly sought2.5 million monthly unique after timepieces that had visits globally. Pioneering the been sourced by numerous marriage between commerce fine watch brands. And the and content is, for Bateman, man who spearheaded this as important as the site’s MR PORTER’S OBJECTIVE robust purchasing service, much-welcomed expansion?

IS TO BECOME A LEADING Toby Bateman, managing which includes personalised director of Mr Porter and same-day delivery. “All of GLOBAL FINE WATCH arguably the best-dressed these aspects provide our DESTINATION man in all of London. customers and readers alike with a curated edit of Responsible for discovering the most exclusive and timepieces to purchase and desirable merchandise learn about. possible, Bateman regularly “As with fashion, where travels the world – and does so in superb style. Never people’s opinions of buying clothing and footwear out of place, he’s widely known to be the most stylish online have drastically changed over the past man in the room without really trying to be.

15 years, people’s opinions are also changing when “Mr Porter’s objective is to become a leading global it comes to buying a fine watch,” explains Bateman. fine watch destination,” he excitedly tells MOJEH when “Not only does e-commerce provide 24/7 availability asked about what’s in store for the coming year. And for research, purchasing and customer service, you things certainly seem to be on the right track. “We’ve can also do a lot of this from home, work or the had a busy twelve months, to say the least!” Recent fine back of a taxi.” watch launches include the unveiling of 21 handsome Despite these practicalities, some high-end watch wristwatches from Swiss maison Bell & Ross. The reveal brands still believe consumers won’t spend substantial incorporates key pieces from the brand’s Vintage and amounts of money on items that they can’t touch

The TAG Heuer Connected Kingsman Special Edition is sold exclusively through Mr Porter, and was released alongside the 2017 film, Kingsman: The Golden Circle

and feel. They view e-commerce as the home of counterfeit goods and unauthorised sellers. Mr Porter is spearheading efforts to shift these outdated attitudes, and is succeeding in doing so, with Baume & Mercier, Montblanc, Piaget, Weiss, Panerai and Glashütte all part of their 2017 expansion. The appeal for brands lies in Mr Porter’s high-net-worth clients – just two per cent of customers account for 30 per cent of revenues – as well as the white-glove services like personal shoppers.

For Bateman, it’s imperative that Mr Porter remain innovative, and while not all luxury brands are embracing e-commerce with vigour, his team are working hard to ensure that this phenomenon doesn’t

lose steam. As such, new avenues have been, and are currently being, explored to broaden the horizons of the e-tailer’s now firmly established collection of fine watches. “Not only have we launched new brands, we have worked with the likes of Ressence on two limited edition timepieces,” he tells MOJEH eagerly, about 2017’s endeavours. “We’re also the exclusive global launch partner for the Montblanc Summit and TAG Heuer Connected Kingsman Special Edition watch.”

Bateman leads Mr Porter’s business across all departments including marketing, buying, personal shopping, tech and editorial, and has been with the company since 2010. With numerous years of experience as a buyer for menswear, it’s no surprise

Polo S Steel Chrono Black Limited Edition, PIAGET

ONCE YOU SHOWCASE THAT E-COMMERCE IS A SECURE, CONVENIENT WAY OF PURCHASING A FINE WATCH WITH CONFIDENCE, CHALLENGES START TO DWINDLE

that the Englishman has an eye for tickers. He counts the Panerai Luminor and Piaget Altiplano among his favourites. The former is his go-to sports wristwatch.

The hand-wound mechanical, exclusive Panerai OP I Calibre boasts a power reserve of 56 hours, while the polished steel case and black dial features luminous Arabic numerals and markers. The latter, he reserves for a more sophisticated setting.

Hearing Bateman discuss such high-end creations with ease is perplexing. E-commerce has typically been popular for lower-priced products, and it’s bizarre to think that that’s changing. “Naturally, the first challenge is to change the way consumers typically shop for a fine watch,” furthers Bateman, “but once you showcase that e-commerce is a secure, convenient way of purchasing a fine watch with confidence, those challenges start to dwindle. Of course, a consumer can try on a watch in a physical shop, but the time taken out of your busy day to venture to the shop isn’t always convenient.”

The Mr Porter team, says Bateman, are discovering that timepiece enthusiasts are more than open to other ways of collecting. “We increasingly find that customers based in areas that are not served by traditional bricks and mortar stores are purchasing fine watches with us as we can conveniently deliver their watch direct to their door.” After all, in an increasingly interconnected world, most of us are continuously on the move. And for those who desire privacy, it’s not always easy to find the time to visit a boutique. “Instead, you can now learn and educate yourself online, and purchase the same watch at the click of a button,” says Bateman.

There have been additional challenges, too. “Ironically, time has proved the most difficult aspect of the expansion,” he reveals, with a grimace. “We know our customers are eager to have more of the world’s leading watch brands available on Mr Porter, but we want to give each watch brand the launch that they deserve.” Quality takes time, and subsequently the Mr Porter team’s hands are tied on how many watches and brands they can launch each year. Bateman’s forever the optimist. “The challenge then becomes an opportunity, as we have further stories and launches for 2018,” he laughs.

And with an ever-increasing number of luxury brands added to the roster, it would seem Mr Porter will have a lot to unveil over the coming months.

BR03-92 42mm ceramic and rubber watch, BELL & ROSS

Clifton Club Automatic 42mm stainless steel and rubber Watch, BAUME & MERCIER

THE LANGUAGE OF TIME You can tell a lot about a man by his chosen timepiece, here four horology enthusiasts share why a watch is an integral part of their identity.

THE COLLECTOR

It was a G-Shock watch that began Hassan Al Akhras’ fascination with timepieces in high school. “I used to collect them as I loved their functionalities and playfulness,” he explains. Fast forward to today, and his passion for watches remains, albeit with a higher price point, and he has a watch for every occasion. “For day, I usually switch between the Rolex Sea-Dweller 50th Anniversary, the Journe Élégante and Ressence Type 1 Squared as they’re practical, robust and very easy to wear with any outfit. For evening, at the moment I wear my Arnold & Son HM Perpetual Moon AWG Club edition as it is very elegant. It’s made from rose gold, which is one of my favourite case materials and it fits my suits. And finally, for special occasions I will wear a Patek Philippe 5970 in rose gold or a Vacheron Constantin Corne de Vache in platinum. Both are perfect for dark suits or tuxedos and they look very classy when coupled with the right cufflinks. Plus, the dials are busy which makes them great talking pieces.”

As for what attracts him to a particular timepiece, Hassan says it’s a variety of things. “It could be a certain colour on the dials that no one else has or isn’t very common in the market. I also look for complications that are useful to my daily life such as GMT and world times due to my constant travel; however I also love complications that are more aesthetic such as tourbillions.” Not drawn to one brand or style, Hassan’s collection is diverse as a result.

“I love the elegant classy pieces with simplistic dials but I also love innovative ways of showing time such as using liquid. I love to explore the entire range of offerings and adapt them to different times of my day.”

Watches, he tells us, are the most important part of any outfit. “I never leave home without wearing a watch – it is the most essential part of my style. It’s a continuation and a projection of my current mood, taste and overall look.

For me, a watch doesn’t only tell the time, it also tells you a lot about a person’s personality.

THE COLLECTORS

Written by Maddison Glendinning, photographed by Borna Ahadi in Dukes Dubai

Hassan Al Akhras, 34, Syrian, founder of Arab Watch Guide

IN THE MIDDLE EAST THERE IS CREATIVITY AND A CRAZE FOR BEAUTIFUL THINGS THAT ALLOWS WATCHMAKING TO FLOURISH. IT’S A REAL TERRITORY OF OPPORTUNITY

THE HOROLOGIST Alexandre Peraldi, 50, French, design director of Baume & Mercier

“The watch is almost the only piece of jewellery a man can wear. When choosing a watch to adorn one’s wrist, it is more than just an attribute of style, as a suit, jeans or a T-shirt can be. It’s a very personal choice that shows others a part of what he likes,” Alexandre Peraldi, the design director for Baume & Mercier tells MOJEH of why a watch is important to a man’s style. He adds, “The watch can also represent a social status. It is often a reflection of what we want to show. We choose it in our image.”

Currently, Alexandre’s personal go-to is “my Clifton Club on a metal bracelet. It almost never leaves my wrist right now. I wore it during Fashion Forward in Dubai on the first day with a very casual outfit and then on the second day with a straight collared shirt and a Hakama. In both outfits, it looked great on my wrist.” During this trip to Dubai, Alexandre’s appreciation for the region’s love of timepieces was further strengthened, too. “In the Middle East there is creativity and a craze for beautiful things that allows watchmaking to flourish. Every time I come to Dubai, for example, I find many reasons to rave about creativity, ingenuity and the means at the service of design. It’s a real territory of opportunity for watchmaking.”

When it comes to styling his watches with his outfit, Alexandre explains that his choice depends on the occasion.

“Generally, I try to coordinate my watch with my outfit – its colour and style are so important. But sometimes, I also play to break the codes – for example, wearing a sports watch with a chic outfit or a classic watch with sports clothes. It’s still the most fun.”

For Alexandre, Baume & Mercier’s designs tick all the right boxes. “The brand’s signature is contemporaneity but also simplicity. There are no extravagant attributes. The watches are comfortable to wear and to look at, and at a reasonable price.” This, he says, is why the brand is often the first a collector-in-the-making receives, sparking a lifelong

fascination with watches. “A Baume & Mercier is often offered as the first luxury watch for an important moment in life such as a graduation, an engagement, a wedding or the arrival of a newborn. We try, as much as possible, to be close to the people who wear our watches. They are the ones who make the brand’s style.”

If you’re considering buying a watch for yourself, or as a gift, Alexandre notes that are several important things to look out for. “First of all, you have to put the watch on your wrist, this is essential. Then, it must please you as you will wear it all day long. Think of what this watch will reflect as an image of you to others, and pay attention to the well-made bill of the watch to ensure there are no sharp areas and no flat areas too wide. Additionally, a high price point is not always a guarantee of quality, so I recommend you always compare prices – not only with other models from the same brand but also equivalent models from other brands.”

A WATCH IS ESSENTIAL TO A MAN’S STYLE. FAR MORE THAN A PRODUCT, A WATCH IS AN ACCESSORY VERY CLOSE TO THE SOUL OF ITS OWNER

THE CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Jean-Mare Schaller, 58, Swiss, CEO and creative director of Louis Moinet As the CEO and creative director of Swiss luxury watchmaker Louis Moinet, Jean-Marie Schaller knows a thing or ten about watches, and more specifically, what men look for in their timepieces. “Over the course of time, a watch has become a different product. 50 years ago, men would have looked for precision and reliability.

Of course today these two elements remain key factors, but a watch has become much more than a timepiece.

Today, a watch is the reflection of oneself. It has to express its wearer’s personality.”

This, he says, is incredibly important. “A watch is essential to a man’s style. When it comes to cars and watches, men usually feel the same passion they had when they were little boys playing with their toys. Far more than a product,

a watch is an accessory very close to the soul of its owner.”

Louis Moinet, Jean-Marie tells us, has a rich heritage, inspired by the famed watchmaker of the same name who was responsible for inventing the chronograph and creating timepieces for kings, presidents, tsars and sultans. “Based on this heritage, we manufacture rare and unique watches, incorporating special materials (such as dinosaur bone, palm tree and meteorites) and creating emotions.”

One of the most incredible pieces in his collection is the Sideralis Evo, which he tells us he likes to wear for formal dinners with a tailor-made suit. “It is a talking piece, with two large, raised tourbillon cages that rotate in opposite directions. The energy driven from these cages is directly used to power the complication at 12 o’clock on which you can see Mars, the moon and Mercury rotating on your wrist.” There’s a particular detail that really sets the watch apart from other models, too. “There are genuine fragments from the moon and Mars (with official certificates) and from a planet that might be Mercury but if not remains the oldest known piece from the entire solar system at more than 4.5 billion-years-old.”

That said, there’s one other watch from the brand – Space Mystery - that garners significant attention and that Schaller has only been able to wear for “a few moments during Baselworld as it’s a great success and is now nearly sold out. It comes in four limited editions of eight watches only so collectors like it very much.” As for what makes it so special? “The technology is unique – a satellite tourbillon coupled with a hand-engraved 18-karat gold case and real fragments from Mars and the moon. On the dial, there is a small piece from a meteorite containing the blocks of life: amino acids.” The next watch on his personal to-buy list “is an original from Louis Moinet in 1820. It’s a beautiful clock he manufactured for a very important person.”

His passion for watches is palpable – both for their science and sentimentality. “Watches touch people’s hearts. A watch is something special that you keep in your family. When my children were born I bought a watch – from two different brands – as a milestone. And whilst they keep trading and changing everything in their life, only the watch remains.”

THE FASHION INFLUENCER Mahmoud El Sidani, 28, Lebanese, founder of Mr Moudz

A WATCH IS VERY IMPORTANT TO ME. IT SAYS A LOT ABOUT ME

With over 100,000 followers on Instagram who keep a keen eye on his fashion choices, Mahmoud El Sidani (better known as Mr Moudz) knows the importance of details to help distinguish his aesthetic. One such detail is a watch. “A watch is very important to me as it says a lot about me and my style. I believe it’s one of the first things someone looks at when you walk into a room.

It’s a way to express who you are and make a statement without really ever having to speak.”

Mahmoud says his everyday watch is, “a white gold Rolex Datejust 41mm Oyster with a deep blue dial. It goes with anything I wear, and it’s so easy to dress up and down,” whilst his evening watch of choice is a rose gold Nautilus Patek Philippe as “it’s chic and not too bulky.” The latter is also the most expensive in his collection. “I don’t think I will ever own a more expensive watch than that,” he smiles, before adding that he would like to next invest in a Richard Mille. “I just need to see if I win the lottery first!”

His obsession with rose gold watches began early. “The first watch I ever owned was a rose gold Rolex Daytona which I got after graduating high school,” he explains.

Nowadays, he has several rose gold timepieces in his collection, including the aforementioned Nautilus as well as a Royal Oak Audemars Piguet which he says he is “more than happy pairing with jogging pants, a T-shirt and sneakers” for daytime wear.

There was also a moment in the film Get Carter that he’s remembered time and time again over the years. “Michael Caine was wearing a timepiece [in the film] that stuck in my mind. It was a classic Rolex Datejust with a gold face and brown strap.” It’s no surprise then, that his favourite strap material is “a dark brown leather strap. It works with anything.”

For Mahmoud, watches are an investment and he purchases them with longevity in mind. “The main things I look for are sustainability and character. It has to be something you know you will one day be able to pass onto your children.” His Patek Philippe watches fall into this category. “They are truly pieces of art. Not only do they make the ultimate statement, but they are timeless and, in my opinion, are the true representation of success when it comes to watches.”

Given his attachment to his collection, Mahmoud ensures that they are always looked after. “I have them regularly serviced and they are always kept in their boxes in a safe.

They are investments so you want to make sure they don’t lose value over time.”

Mahmoud says he loves both giving and receiving watches as a gift for the memories they create. “They are such personal items that a person can wear every day and be reminded of you. In my eyes, it’s the gift that keeps on giving.”

AND MY STYLE. IT’S A WAY TO EXPRESS WHO YOU ARE AND MAKE A STATEMENT WITHOUT REALLY EVER HAVING TO SPEAK

THE

THIRD WATCH

The watch you didn’t know you needed, but that will change the way you look at wearing a timepiece.

SBB Nord Sud, MONDAINE

THE TREND

Aviator Pilot, CHOTOVELLI

Khaki Takeoff Auto Chronograph, HAMILTON

Startimer Pilot Chronograph Big Date, ALPINA

Group B, AUTODROMO

Yes, we know, nobody needs a watch these days. You all have smartphones that can tell you the time anywhere on earth and a thousand other functions. But being able to tell the time isn’t the main reason why you wear expensive mechanical watches. Usually, the reasons are multiple, and personal.

You may have a really good watch. A Rolex, a Patek, JaegerLeCoultre, a pride-and-joy piece that one day you will give to your son. You may also have a complimentary second watch. After all, that JLC Reverso looks great with the tux but not so much with shorts and a polo at Friday’s brunch.

So you might invest in a nice TAG, or an Omega. But consider the third watch.

The third watch will cost under AED 3,700 (USD 1,000) and have little resale value. It’s not an investment, it’s an addition to the wardrobe. It’s fun, interesting and a bit different, or something with a story behind it. Perhaps it’s the watch for the occasion that the other two simply don’t cover. Or maybe it’s something that looks nice and won’t have you in tears if it breaks when your son half-volleys a football at your arm in the park.

The king of the third watch is arguably the Mondaine.

Racing Chronograph, JACK MASON

The Runwell Chrono, SHINOLA

The Mondaine Official Swiss Railways watch is an icon of 20th Century design. In 1944, Hans Hilfiker, a Swiss engineer, designer and employee of Federal Swiss Railways, created a clock, which has since become known as the ‘Official Swiss Railways Clock’. In 1986, the Mondaine watch company, owned by the Bernheim family, took the blueprint of the iconic design of the Railways Clock and turned it into a watch collection.

Clear, intelligent and boasting functional design, they’ve become iconic and although there are a range of variants – with new models each year – at their core they retain the look and feel of the clocks that are still used on the platforms of today’s Swiss Railways’s stations.

Mondaine’s SBB Nord Sud [pictured far left] highlights the union of the two compass opposites brought closer by the Gotthard Tunnel. North is represented through the traditional Swiss German welcome ‘Grieäzi’, embossed above the 12 o’clock mark. Below the 6 o’clock, embossed on the black leather strap are the local Italian words for good day ‘Buon di’, an indication of the tunnel’s journey to Canton Ticino in the south.

Complex Times Horology comes in the form of robust shapes, complicated mechanisms and a palette of crisp browns and blacks. Opt to dress up with traditional silhouettes or down with playful prints.

Photographed by Raphael Delorme Styled by Edem Dossou

Watch, BVLGARI | clothing, LOUIS VUITTON

Watch, DE GRISOGONO | clothing, LOUIS VUITTON

Watch, BVLGARI | clothing, KENZO

Watch, DE GRISOGONO | clothing, BALENCIAGA

Watch, BVLGARI | shirt, GIVENCHY

Watch, HUBLOT | clothing, SAINT LAURENT

Watch, DIOR HOMME | clothing, ACNE STUDIOS

Watch, CARTIER | clothing, GIVENCHY

Watch and clothing, DIOR HOMME

Model: Baptiste Mayeux at Elite Paris Makeup artist: Angelik Iffennecker Hair stylist: Alexandre Gloaguen Local production: Art Factory Management Location: Sir Winston Paris

Purified Notions A wash of white gold and diamonds add an air of refinement and virtue to fine jewellery styling. Accent with a soft palette of off-white, cream and blush-pink to carry you through all seasons.

Photographed by Mehmet Erzincan Style direction by Kelly Baldwin

Magic Alhambra earrings, Enlacement band, Sonate Solitaire ruby ring (both right hand), Fleurette band (left hand), Perlee bracelets in white gold and diamonds, VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Dress, TIBI at BySymphony

Magic Alhambra earrings, Frivole clip and ring, VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Shirt, DICE KAYAK | Jacket, CÉLINE

Fleurette earrings and Zip Antique Celeste high jewellery necklace, VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Top, ANTONIO BERARDI

Lotus earrings, necklace, ring and bracelet all in white gold and diamonds and Sweet Alhambra six motif bracelet, VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Jacket, CHRISTIAN SIRIANO at BySymphony

Magic Alhambra 16 motif necklace (worn as bracelet), Socrate ring and Fleurette earrings, VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Dress, LANVIN

Frivole earrings, Nine Flowers necklace, Frivole ring and Socrate ring, VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Shirt, ISA AFREN at BySymphony and coat JELENA BIN DRAI

Model: Magdalena at MMG Hair and makeup artist: Manuel Losada Nails: Dollhouse Dubai

EXPRESSIONS OF AN

ARTIST Florals in exaggerated proportions dominate dress codes while ballooned gemstones populate earpieces and lengthy trails of winter leaves weave gracefully around the neckline. Haute jewellery becomes your masterpiece.

Photographed by Mehmet Erzincan Style direction by Kelly Baldwin

Autumn Leaf ring in white and yellow gold with diamonds and yellow diamonds, and Mystère de l’Hiver cuff in lacquer with sapphires, yellow diamonds and diamonds, CINDY CHAO

Floral earrings in silver, yellow and rose gold with diamonds, yellow diamonds, pearls, conch pearls and kunzites, CINDY CHAO Top, DELPOZO at BySymphony

Winter Leaves brooches in enamel, titanium and white gold with diamonds, CINDY CHAO Dress, DICE KAYEK at BySymphony

Yellow Diamond Leaves ring in white gold with diamonds and yellow diamonds, and Brown Diamond Branch ring in yellow gold with yellow and brown diamonds, CINDY CHAO Dress, VERSACE

Ribbon earrings in titanium with two Colombian emeralds, diamonds, sapphires, alexandrites, tsavorites and blue spinels, CINDY CHAO Top, VALENTINO

Ribbon necklace in white gold with diamonds, CINDY CHAO Dress, VALENTINO

Model: Marta Gawron at Art Factory Management Hair and makeup artist: Manuel Losada

C O L O U R

THEORY Emeralds take over necklaces and bracelets in fiery green hues, while peony-pink stones frame the face and sapphires become the new emblems of love.

Photographed by The Factory

Photographed by Elena Lukyanchuk

Heart-shaped necklace in platinum with pear-shaped sapphires and white diamonds, DAVID MORRIS

Emerald bangle in white gold with emeralds and white diamonds, DAVID MORRIS

Lotus earrings in white gold with rubies and white diamonds, DAVID MORRIS

Tendril necklace in white gold with cabochon and emerald beads and white diamonds, DAVID MORRIS

EMERALDS...

A LOVE AFFAIR MOJEH examines the long-established regional significance of emeralds in the Middle East.

Ring, BVLGARI

M O J E H F E AT U R E

Photographed by Borna Ahadi

Words by Annie Darling

EMERALDS IN PARTICULAR HAVE CAPTURED THE MIDDLE EASTERN WOMAN’S ATTENTION

Serpenti gold, diamond and emerald necklace, BVLGARI

Ring, DE GRISOGONO | Oracle necklace, CARTIER

A

s the Middle East’s economy prospers, it brings a significant breakthrough in the jewellery market.

Amit Dhamani, managing director of Dhamani Jewels, has already started to notice the emergence of jewel trends that are specifically significant to younger connoisseurs from the region. “Of all the gemstones, emeralds in particular have captured the Middle Eastern woman’s attention with their vivid beauty, because the colour green holds a significant meaning in the region’s culture.” Considered the traditional shade of Islam, green represents fertility, luck, and wealth. Jean-Marc Mansvelt, CEO of Chaumet, reveals to MOJEH that the maison’s emerald-smothered Pastorale Anglaise set, which reinterprets the Scottish tartan motif, has been notably crowd-pleasing in the region. “It was designed around extraordinary emeralds from Muzo mines in Colombia,” he says. “The vivid green exceptional stones are particularly popular in the Middle East.” He also admits that many of the brand’s special orders and oneof-a-kind pieces have been sold to prominent regional families, while Fabergé says that the most important buyers of its imperial-class eggs, many of which are mottled by the world’s most exceptional emeralds, are also Middle Eastern.

Van Cleef & Arpels’s loyal Middle Eastern clientele have long had a fondness for the inescapable wonder of

scintillating emeralds. In November 1966, the maison received a request from the Iranian government to create several high jewellery sets for the former empress, Farah Pahlavi. Part of the gemstone’s appeal lies in its scarcity, which is important for both its demand and overall value.

Coloured diamonds fit into this category because they’re not as plentiful as white diamonds, particularly those of exquisite clarity. In the region’s culture, precious gems and metals have long been revered as the most solid financial investments of all, and this concept has seeped into the mindsets of present day jewellery connoisseurs, despite the associated practicalities not being as relevant for this younger generation of collectors.

To properly understand the substantial significance of the emerald within the Middle East, one must look back over six thousand years of purchasing jewellery. A fine emerald is often two to three times more valuable than a white diamond, and history records show that the jewel was well known and sold in markets in the ancient kingdom of Babylon by as early as 4,000 BC. In comparison, the earliest reference to emeralds in western literature comes from the ancient Greek philosopher Aristotle, who was born in 383 BC. A well-known admirer and collector of the gemstone, Aristotle famously wrote that owning an emerald increases the wearer’s importance and presence within the local and international community. He even

THE MIDDLE EAST IS BRIMMING IN EXCEPTIONAL JEWELS AND HIGHLY-PRECIOUS METALS

wrote: “An emerald hung from the neck or worn in a ring will prevent the falling sickness (epilepsy). We, therefore, commend noblemen that it be hanged around the necks of their children that they fall not into this.”

In the Islamic faith, a delicate and intricately decorated amulet featuring an emerald is often engraved with a verse from the Quran, while the ancient Egyptians believed the jewel assisted in a person’s fertility or rebirth. Emeralds were reportedly the favoured gemstone of Cleopatra, the Queen of Egypt and last ruler in a dynasty of Macedonian royalty founded by Ptolemy. Her emerald mine was found

by Frederic Cailliaud in 1817, which he located not far from the Red Sea; a truly remarkable discovery.

From Turkey to North Africa, and as far east as Afghanistan, the Middle East is brimming in exceptional jewels and highly-precious metals. Its location at the intersection of the Mediterranean Sea, the Indian Ocean, Africa and Eurasia, made the region an ideal hotspot for trade, thus connecting the east to west. However, it is probably emeralds that have left the most indelible stamp on the region’s jewel heritage, because of the stone’s various meanings that reflect the area’s vast diversity and dynamism.

The stone continues to be a source of inspiration for the whole world. German actress and singer Marlene Dietrich wore her own collection of dramatic jewellery set with

huge cabochon emeralds, in particular two bracelets and a clip brooch, during many of her well-known films.

Academy Award winner Halle Berry, meanwhile, sports one of the most standout emerald and 18-karat gold engagement rings, which was hand-forged by French jeweller Robert Mazio.

The market for coloured gemstones is currently ravenous, with record prices being achieved for various jewels, including sapphires and rubies. An 18.04-carat emerald once owned by the esteemed Rockefeller family recently sold at auction for an eye-popping AED 20.2 million in New York. At AED 1.1 million per carat, the bedazzling treasure broke the world record price-per-carat for an emerald ever sold at auction, and was later described

by Christie’s as “among the finest emeralds to be offered for sale at auction.” Bought by the illustrious jeweller Harry Winston, the luxury maison’s CEO Nayla Hayek had instructed her chief financial officer Robert Scott, who was bidding at auction, to “bring this magnificent gem home at any price.” She would later comment: “Harry Winston is immensely proud to own the finest emerald in the world, which once belonged to one of America’s most important dynasties.”

Tom Burstein, head of American jewellery at Christie’s added: “The Rockefeller Emerald is one of the best gemstones to ever be offered at auction, and its

Earrings and watch, DE GRISOGONO

Ring, DE GRISOGONO

superior beauty and quality are matched only by its historic name.” Emerald and rubies miner Gemfields, meanwhile, announced a 2017 auction of predominantly higher-quality emeralds from the Kagem emerald mine in Zambia in late 2016. Unsurprising, considering the demand – a typical emerald auction would attract 100 potential buyers, says the company, but admissions are limited to about a third of that.

After all, there’s nothing more fascinating that discovering the journey of a gemstone that’s passed through the hands of the rich and famous. Sotheby’s researchers studying the Stotesbury Emerald, for example, found a century-long tale of blue-blooded intrigue behind the hexagonal-cut 34.4-carat Colombian emerald. Estimated to be worth between AED 2.9 million and AED 4.4 million, its life in America began in 1908 when Cartier was commissioned to create a stunning necklace for the eccentric mining heiress Evalyn Walsh McLean. Famously known for being the last private owner of the 45-carat Hope Diamond, the stylish socialite’s Cartier creation featured her exceptionally large 94.8-carat Star of the East diamond, alongside the awe-inspiring emerald.

In the Middle East, the 20th Century oil boom in the UAE has attracted the attention of various auction houses.

Sotheby’s have recently opened up their first office space and gallery in Dubai and, in an interview with MOJEH,

David Bennett, worldwide chairman of international jewellery for Sotheby’s, explained that the region is of particular interest because of its high-end gem and jewellery collectors, many of which are amongst the most influential throughout the world. Sotheby’s have recorded a 46 per cent increase in spending by its Middle Eastern clients between 2015 and 2016, as well as a 30 per cent increase in buyers from the region over the past five years.

Emeralds are at the forefront of these purchases.

De Grisogono’s latest high jewellery collection is dominated by imaginative structures that adorn the most incredible emeralds. Contemporary creations and fragile designs are crafted using forest-green stones that denote pure luxury. Elegance and opulence is also achieved through playful nods to colour in Cartier’s Magicien Collection, which pays homage to geometric components and Art Deco-inspired patterns. Optical illusions are made all the more breathtaking in the emerald-studded Oracle necklace, which harks back to the splendid design of Elizabeth Taylor’s Emerald Suite collection by Bulgari.

An eye-catching gemstone, emeralds have been popular worldwide since they were first discovered in ancient Egypt, but they hold a particularly special place in the Middle East’s gold and silver-flooded heart. As the region’s demand continues to skyrocket, so will the number of pieces, and that’s nothing to be disappointed about.

BEYOND THE

BLOOMS MOJEH investigates the jewellery industry’s latest craze - its contemporary take on florals.

Photographed by Jason Pietra for Trunk Archive

Words by Annie Darling

M O J E H F E AT U R E

PERHAPS IT’S NOT SURPRISING THAT WOMEN ARE TURNING TO THEIR BELOVED AND CHERISHED MAISONS FOR A SENSE OF SAFETY

F

loral motifs have taken on a new role in jewellery. For thousands of years, beautifully delicate and feminine florets have long been a decorative subject and source of inspiration for artisans, but modern alternatives are becoming increasingly different from the traditional existing designs we’ve all worn to numerous occasions. Abandoning their usual dainty aesthetic, more and more creations are being unveiled that take on an empowering, sometimes masculine, and oftentimes authoritative creative design.

Midnight hues, darkened shades and commanding structures are overtaking the popularity of previously decadent and ethereal pieces, but why?

Jewellery is, of course, a curiously intimate accessory; we select creations knowing that they will provide others with an intimate insight into our personality, and the rarer the piece, the more personal and bespoke its meaning.

During a tumultuous period dominated by travel bans and the building of walls, and in which many think advancements

in equal and civil rights are under threat, perhaps it’s not surprising that women are turning to their beloved and cherished maisons for a sense of safety and self-expression.

Take Van Cleef & Arpel’s, for example; an illustrious jewellery house whose elaborations on the recently revealed Cosmos collection brought the dramatic heavy darkness of onyx to their whimsical interpretation of the four-leaf clover. Brilliant white mother-of-pearl extravagantly lifts the collection into an otherworldly and, subsequently, empowering state of purity and, perhaps, even dark reality.

A single diamond-studded leaf was added to the well-known three-dimensional shape, which is incorporated into both a ring and a pendant. The result? This minimalistic composition seamlessly transitions the piece from classically floral to contemporarily architectural.

A burgeoning thirst for innovative and unique jewellery designs continues to be particularly popular in the Middle East, says Yasmina Khoudja, general manager

for Chopard Middle East. “The Middle East embraces a culture of luxury and the women in this region appreciate and desire high-end watches and jewellery because it’s a sign of distinction,” she tells MOJEH, when asked about this seemingly insatiable desire for daring twists to longstanding and universal jewellery designs. “For women, it will always be a matter of aesthetics as well as an appreciation of the craftwork involved. They always look for novelties and exclusive pieces. In other regions, such as Europe, women’s tastes differ as they prefer more simple and modest models.”

Earlier this year, in an extraordinary move, Chopard introduced the Rihanna Loves Chopard collection of high jewels, and by doing so, capitalised upon the trend Khoudja outlines. Known for her incredible singing voice, as well as her innate sense of style, Rihanna’s collaboration with the brand doesn’t come as a total surprise – she’s a wellknown admirer of Chopard – but the collection’s aesthetic certainly shocks

Earrings and rings, BINA GOENKA | Garden collection rings, ROBERTO COIN

with its convivial and soulful approach to floral motifs. Inspired by the musician’s home island of Barbados, each piece’s colour denotes the vivacious country’s emerald-green and bruised-peach gardens, in addition to its lush foliage.

“I have always been in love with Chopard’s exquisite jewellery, so to actually design collections with them is something I still can’t believe,” said Rihanna, at the time of release. “It was a really incredible process and I learned so much! I can’t wait for everyone to see it.”

Chopard co-president and creative director Caroline Sheufele worked directly with Rihanna in the making of the new high jewellery pieces.

“Rihanna and I collaborated closely on the collection so you can feel her unstoppable energy, strong creativity, and inherent sense of design in every piece. With her unique style, she redefines the way people see and wear jewellery.”

The sensual and oversized blossoms utilised in the Rihanna Loves Chopard collection are, unsurprisingly, set with dazzling diamonds and kaleidoscopic

gemstones. Dramatic earrings in white gold and titanium are set with an array of Paraiba tourmalines, rubies, amethysts, tsavorites, and green beryl, as well as pink, blue and yellow sapphires.

However, they are fascinatingly set in clean lines and geometric shapes, which achieves a flamboyant and grandiose overall feel that simultaneously manages to look both feminine and commanding.

Perhaps this sudden interest in floral jewellery with a robust flourish coincides with the international increased enthusiasm for the feminist movement, which is a phenomenon that’s captured the attention of women, and men, worldwide - particularly of late. For some, making a stand or expressing a political opinion can be achieved simply by wearing a slogan T-shirt; for example, Dior’s spring/summer17’s ‘We Should All Be Feminists’ garment, which was pioneered by superwoman and Italian fashion designer, Maria Grazia Chiuri.

Overt messages demanding change and reform, such as this, are often a necessary precursor in any social movement,

which can be later followed by a more subtle and longer-lasting, aesthetic sensibility. While fashion provides a powerful platform for bold statements and theatrical demonstrations – both on and off the catwalk – jewellery, in its sheer modesty and unrivalled sophistication, almost inescapably slots into the role of the latter. Taking a concept as stereotypically effeminate as flowers and updating the motif with rebellious gemstones or an anarchistic framework seems to be the jewellery industry’s way of taking a stand in favour of equal rights for women.

“With world modernisation, new cultures and designs are being introduced, and they bring with them different ways to display gemstones, ” explains Amit Dhamani, managing director of Dhamani Jewels, when asked by MOJEH about Middle Eastern women’s jewellery and watch preferences. “In the last four to five years, with the increased accessibility of digital and social media platforms, they’re [Middle Eastern women] coming to know more about

WHETHER OR NOT THIS TREND IS ONE THAT WILL CONTINUE IS YET TO BE DECIDED

Signature necklace, WENDY YUE | Conch Pearl Rose earrings, CINDY CHAO

Left to right: Ring, DE GRISOGONO | ring, CHANEL

gemstones and jewellery designs that the world has to offer.” Experimentation with classic and more traditional concepts, which, in turn, often break cultural and societal boundaries, has been encouraged and made possible with the rise of the Internet, Dhamani explains; particularly in the Middle East.

“With new technology, they [Middle Eastern women] have broadened their knowledge. In turn, this has increased their interest in new and different designs. They’re now better able to keep up with the latest fashions and trends.”

An increase in the use of social media and online resources has also impacted the Middle Eastern jeweller’s ability to conjure up different and distinctive designs, says Dhamani. “To keep up with the market, jewellers have also increased their range of jewellery styles and types of gemstones that they use to make sure they have items that will appeal to a wider range of clientele.”

There’s also an eye-catching baroque intensity to the handful of high jewellery

brands that are emerging from the Far East. Hong Kong-based Wallace Chan’s fantastical sculptures and Taiwanese jeweller Cindy Chao’s elaborate works of wearable art take floral fantasies into an unchartered realm of incredible beauty and discussion. So much more than a spectacular piece of jewellery, creations crafted by these highlyskilled and sought-after artisans spark conversations and leave important questions unanswered.

Anna Hu, the New York-based Taiwanese jeweller whose work has made headlines for its sales value at auction, creates pieces that incorporate courageous cultural influences. From solid diamond bangles decorated with plum blossoms formed using rubies and black diamonds, to Celestial Lotus earrings crafted from vivid blue Paraiba tourmalines and sapphires, Hu’s pieces are preoccupied with definitions of masculinity and femininity. Back in Europe, and Chanel’s 62-piece high jewellery collection Les Blés de Chanel takes unmistakable

inspiration from one of the maison’s founder’s favourite emblems: wheat. An ode to every stage of the crop’s life-cycle, each exquisite 18-karat gold creation with their asymmetrical form and naturally flawless brilliant-cut yellow diamonds are unlike any collection that’s been released before, while the sculptural Cactus de Cartier collection masters the use of chrysoprase, a vibrant apple-green hardstone, which, when married to red carnelian, produces verdant and fresh pieces that perfectly resemble the thorny plant species. Instead of imagining super-stylised floral motifs, brands are delving into real life details, such as the deeply ribbed barrel shapes of a cactus, which adorns each Cartier ring, cuff and earring in the collection, and all of which are expertly finished with a berry-like fruit-inspired gemstone.

Whether or not this trend is one that’ll continue is yet to be decided, but the reasons behind the increased interest in bold, abstract floral motifs are certainly long-standing. Perhaps, only time will tell.

Valses d’Hiver diadem in white gold, set with a brilliant-cut diamond of 2.13 carats and a white cultured pearl of 12mm, CHAUMET

REGIONAL REVOLUTION W

omen in the Middle East have long been enthusiastic appreciators of diamonddrenched high jewellery and boundarybreaking timepieces. According to the market research company Euromonitor International, the value of ladies’ high-end watch sales in the region has increased by nine per cent year over year, and the vast majority of sales are reportedly made in the UAE. Numerous high-profile beauties have been known to adorn the finest creations available.

Queen Rania of Jordan, for example, is renowned for her sensational tiaras that sparkle in the spotlight; an exquisite diadem, crafted by Boucheron in 2008, is arguably her most notable. First worn during a state visit to Brunei, her royal highness donned the dazzling headpiece two years later at the wedding of Crown Princess Victoria of Sweden, and again for the tenth anniversary celebrations of her husband’s accession to the throne.

In Dubai, meanwhile, on a sweltering mid-summer morning, the luxurious Four Seasons Resort in the city’s international financial centre (DIFC)

is an inviting escape from the dewy humidity and blazing-hot sun. The hotel’s opulent café is adorned in palatial pepper-hued lounge chairs, which are surrounded by gilded ornaments and slick, metallic surfaces. After ordering a creamy cappuccino, MOJEH sees David Bennett, worldwide chairman of Sotheby’s International Jewellery Division, enter with an exuberant smile, alongside Daniela Mascetti, the firm’s senior international jewellery specialist, who wears an eye-catchingly thick string of splendid fat pearls.

“There’s been about 50 years, really, of major jewellery buying history in the Middle East,” begins Bennett, who is regarded internationally as an authority in the field of precious stones. A key figure in the auction world, he’s presided over the sale of numerous exceptional coloured gems, including the world auction record for any pink diamond: AED 170 million for the 24.78-carat Fancy Intense Graff Pink, in November 2010. These days, he says, the ever-increasing rise of spending power among Middle Eastern consumers is shaping the way

THE WOMAN

Words by Annie Darling. Photograph courtesy of Getty

Bursts of prosperity have propelled the Middle Eastern woman to the highest echelons of high jewellery connoisseur. MOJEH celebrates this rise to consequence, as well as the shifts in taste that reflect changes to power.

Queen Rania of Jordan has become renowned for her exquisite taste in jewellery

Rubellite, pink sapphire, diamond and pink gold Corona Necklace, GIAMPIERO BODINO

jewellery is both worn and appreciated worldwide.

Worn as a classic choker or generously draped over the body, the Persian Gulf’s celebrated pearls will, of course, always be popular in the region (and worldwide), while immaculate Golconda diamonds have long been imported from India; often reserved for nightfall, their multifaceted surfaces dance when reflected in flickering candlelight. But the modern Middle Eastern woman isn’t just richer, furthers Bennett – an insightful twinkle glimmers from behind his rectangular black-rimmed glasses.

She’s becoming impressively advanced and global in her high jewellery tastes. “The region is not only becoming rapidly prosperous, but its women are also travelling hugely, including to London and Paris,” he exclaims with unmistakable admiration.

Mascetti interjects in a voluptuous, rolling accent: “It’s this century’s phenomenon that the Middle Eastern woman has really slighted traditional tastes and graduated to more sophisticated, European tastes.” Amit Dhamani, managing editor of Dhamani Jewels, agrees. “She’s had a great love for plain gold and semi-precious stones,” he tells MOJEH, when asked about how regional penchants have developed, “but with world modernisation, new cultures and designs being introduced, they bring with them different ways to display precious gemstones.” French maison Chaumet’s CEO, Jean-Marc Mansvelt, says that while, “jewellery and watches have always been an important part of the Middle Eastern woman’s culture, her assertive taste has developed, influenced by travels and socio-cultural evolution.”

“Tastes have developed from relatively ‘loud’ pieces, not necessarily branded or well manufactured, to more ‘elegant’ items,” concurs Omar Chaoui, managing director of the Middle East and India region for de Grisogono, before adding that, despite the change in contemporary designs, clients are still “very much into novelties”. Roberto Coin believes that there’s a gap in the market for creations with aesthetics that are more refined, sophisticated and less ostentatious. Speaking about his own company he tells MOJEH, “It’s difficult to be a brand that’s so different that you don’t recognise the jewellery, because normally you buy a brand because you want it to be recognised that you’re wearing a Cartier or a Chopard.”

Pascal Mouawad, co-guardian of Mouawad, is dedicated to the pursuit of artistic excellence and technical perfection. “Today, more than ever, women in the region seek unique, contemporary designs that mirror their character,” he tells MOJEH. “The Middle Eastern woman is very much about discerning taste and, most importantly, being unique.” He fondly adds that, “She looks for finesse and elegance. Settling for second best is not an option for her as she always wants to make a bold statement.” Mansvelt also considers regional jewellery preferences to be clear-cut and specific. “The Middle Eastern woman looks for sophistication and distinction with her jewellery as part of defining her style and status. Design, recognition and legitimacy are important factors.”

The preferences of an emerging-market and younger consumer who’s tech-savvy and

THE MIDDLE EASTERN JEWELLERY CLIENTELE IS ONE OF THE GREATEST ADMIRERS OF EXTRAORDINARY CRAFTSMANSHIP AND BEAUTY

extraordinarily well connected are also having a growing influence on the jewellery that’s sold in the region, explains Bennett. Millennials constitute 40 per cent of the population in the Middle East; they value authenticity and like to differentiate themselves. “In the beginning when you’re not confident in your own tastes you generally buy what’s the accepted thing,” suggests Bennett, when discussing the purchasing behaviour of previous generations. “If you see your peers wearing a Van Cleef & Arpels necklace, you’re going to aspire to own and wear that necklace. Gradually, when you become more confident in your own tastes, you then want what nobody else has got,” he explains. “You want something that’s very special.”

The Middle Eastern high jewellery clientele is one of the greatest admirers of extraordinary craftsmanship and beauty, which are present in both historic and present-day collections. “They are more than well informed about jewellery,” affirms Mouawad, “making sure they’re selecting an exceptional piece that’s different from everyone else, while radiating timeless sophistication.”

Dhamani agrees. “Middle Eastern women have always been educated about gemstones,” he says.

“However in the last four to five years, with the increased accessibility of digital and social media platforms, they are coming to know more about gemstones and jewellery designs that the rest of the world has to offer.”

“I wouldn’t say that that they’re better educated as taste and elegance are more of a natural talent, especially here,” says Chaoui. “I would say that they are better informed today.” The impact of the Internet has heavily influenced consumer awareness. In a country that has one of the highest number of shops per capita in the world, with 4.7 million-square-metres of shopping centres in Dubai and Abu Dhabi alone, UAE aficionados have been slow to make online purchases. But over the past few years, there has been a seismic shift towards e-commerce with Dubai, despite being famed for its luxury mega malls, boasting the highest number of online shoppers – at 46 per cent – in the UAE, according to a survey by Awok.com. A separate study by Network International found that 34 per cent of residents

Top to bottom: Ruby ring, DIOR | Diamond brooch, VAN CLEEF & ARPELS | Diamond-studded earcuffs, STEPHEN WEBSTER

Prominent style influencer, Lana El Sahely is photographed in Chaumet’s Liens collection

HISTORICALLY THE WORLD OF HIGH JEWELLERY HAS BEEN REGARDED AS A MEMBERS-ONLY CLUB

Collier Casati, MESSIKA JOAILLERIE

make online purchases frequently – between one and five times each week. And while historically the world of high jewellery has been regarded as a members-only club, opening the door to the masses means extraordinary pieces are much more covetable in the digital age.

This online phenomenon has been capitalised upon by various luxury maisons, most notably

by Chaumet who have been promoting numerous Middle Eastern brand ambassadors that are photographed wearing the brand’s spectacularly beautiful creations. Lebanese socialite, prominent style influencer and the creative force behind international fashion and lifestyle blog L’Armoire De Lana, Lana El Sahely has been particularly crowd-pleasing. Elegantly snapped in Chaumet’s recent Liens collection, looking graceful, she’s shown in 18-karat white gold and brilliant-cut diamond layers of treasure.

Mascetti points out that, when it comes to jewellery, the Middle East is starting to hark back to historically

decadent time periods. “This generation has joined the Old World,” she leans forward, eagerly.

“She [the Middle Eastern woman] has started to appreciate vintage jewels from the Twenties and Thirties, rather than coloured gemstones that were big, that were flashy, and that were opulent.”

It seems that prosperity and travel are reviving the taste for decadent, cultured objects, and that the grand style of old is back in vogue. “In recent years, we’ve seen an increase in interest for historical and archive pieces,” concurs Mansvelt, which makes one wonder: are Middle Eastern women trying to obtain, what was (for their ancestors) the unobtainable?

Are they grappling for a slice of age-old luxury and nostalgia while living in a region that’s dominated by gutsy ambition and futuristic vision? Whatever the reason, these acquired tastes in jewellery are not only being adapted, but oftentimes spearheaded by jewellery connoisseurs in the Middle East. Surely, it’s only a matter of time before the region takes flight and becomes a leader in the industry’s well-gilded evolution.

PIÈCE de RÉSISTANCE WORDS BY ANNIE DARLING

From the traditionally cut that exert timeless appeal to contemporary creations that amaze and inspire, MOJEH brings together the most noteworthy high jewellery creations unveiled during the past year.

THE JEWELLERY YEAR

High jewellery Olive necklace in white gold with seven peridots weighing 47.84 carats, seven amethysts weighing 43.47 carats, six tourmalines, fancy colour pavĂŠ and round brilliant-cut diamonds, BVLGARI

CARTIER RÉSONANCES DE CARTIER An illustrious maison, Cartier’s latest high jewellery collection takes the brand’s extraordinary heritage one step further. Precious jewels and exquisite gemstones are painstakingly selected based on their distinctive and enduring character. Playing on contrasts, a bold and graphic aesthetic dominates each creation’s powerful personality, while expert designs and longstanding motifs that have, over the years, become synonymous with the luxury jeweller, exude sleek movement and seamless fluidity.

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS LE SECRET Since the early-20th Century, numerous precious pieces have been steadily unveiled by Van Cleef & Arpels; a maison whose intimate and fanciful approach to jewellery values each treasure’s origin and foundation above all else. Heartshaped rubellite of a pinkish purple is displayed alongside opulent garlands of mauve sapphires and pear-shaped diamonds, which further consists of hidden mechanisms and smooth transformations that both surprise and inspire.

BVLGARI FESTA The infectious jubilance that inevitably arises from Italian art de vivre inspires Bulgari’s festive collection of more than 100 soulful creations.

Festa epitomises European exhilaration and exuberance, which transcends all peoples and differences, in the form of sugarloaf sapphires that shimmer like cobalt Mediterranean oceans. Whether worn socialising in a gilded palace or while strolling Venice’s cobbled canals, attitude and authenticity prevails, much like the historic jeweller itself.

GIAMPIERO BODINO MEDITERRANEA An opulent and guileful assortment, Giampiero Bodino’s Corona creations from the maison’s Mediterranea collection are reminiscent of historic Sicilian majolica. Energetic colours are gracefully contrasted in a complex and decorative pattern of gemstones, which are flawlessly connected by strings of timeless white diamonds. Pond-blue sapphires, verdant emeralds and burnt orange-hued opals form bulging bouquets of blossoming flowers that come together in a fine-tuned chromatic harmony.

CHOPARD RED CARPET COLLECTION Unveiled each year at the Cannes Film Festival, 2017’s Red Carpet Collection was particularly special as it marked the 70th anniversary of the prestigious event, and additionally celebrated the 20th edition in which Chopard served as official partner. Oversized, chandelier earrings and richly brocaded arabesque motifs are presented alongside richly royal-blue stones that are set within audacious necklaces, which brilliantly illustrate the jeweller’s boundless creativity and unrivalled expertise.

CHAUMET CHAUMET EST UNE FÊTE Enthralled by old world decadence, Chaumet pays tribute to the Parisian appreciation for elegance and refinement.

Chaumet Est Une Fête’s divided into four breathtaking themes: the dark and romantic ruby-drenched Aria Passionata; the vivacious and delicate pearl-draped Valses d’Hiver; the unconventional but exceptional Rhapsodie Transatlantique; and Pastorale Anglaise, which reinterprets the Scottish tartan motif with bursts of yellow sapphire and meadow-green emerald.

BOUCHERON HIVER IMPÉRIAL Inspired by the East’s incomprehensible stretch of snow-smothered horizons, Hiver Impérial celebrates Boucheron’s intimate history with Russia. The first French maison to open a boutique in 19th Century Moscow, nature as well as couture and architecture define the three themes that dominate this wintertime collection. Diamonds, pearls and cascading spinels add to the brand’s already mesmerising character, guaranteeing the wearer’s role as any event’s centrepiece.

DAVID MORRIS HIGH JEWELLERY Renowned for spearheading technical excellence within the jewellery industry, David Morris’s feminine narrative continues with a collection that’s mounted in rose and white gold.

Expertly set with white diamonds and a variety of blue-blood gemstones, each unique piece is undeniably a tremendous work of art. Crafted to the highest standards, the latest creations have been sought out by royalty and international jewel connoisseurs alike, in keeping with the maison’s five-decade long tradition.

CHANEL FLYING CLOUD Named after a palatial yacht that belonged to Hugh Grosvenor, the second Duke of Westminster, Chanel’s luxurious Flying Cloud compilation is simultaneously severe and sensual.

Long anticipated, think white gold, sapphires and cultured pearls; black, sailor blue, and maritime white are presented alongside polished copper hues and white gold to form a restless selection of buried treasure that emanates the sweet flavourof salt-water air and the scent of sun-kissed skin.

MESSIKA JOAILLERIE ROARING DIAMONDS Since her first high jewellery collection was unveiled in 2013, ValÊrie Messika has continued to produce exceptional collections that showcase unique diamond expertise, technical virtuosity and a contemporary aesthetic. Perfectly asymmetrical earrings with a ripple effect are displayed alongside flamboyant Twenties-inspired bracelets, all of which are drenched in marquise-cut diamonds. A timeless and superbly wearable collection, Roaring Diamonds is one that shouldn’t be missed.

The 163.41-carat emerald-cut diamond sits as the centrepiece in Creation I, carried by a white gold necklace set in pear and brilliant-cut emeralds and brilliant-cut diamonds Below: The original stone was discovered in Angola in 2016 at 404.20-carats rough, prior to it being cut and polished into four separate pieces

Flawless Finds The largest D-colour, flawless diamond to go to auction is mastered into Creation I, an exceptional piece by de Grisogono’s founder, Fawaz Gruosi.

THE DIAMOND

The diamond is detachable from the necklace, and turns the creation into a transformable piece

“A stone this size is not easy to wear, its vastness might become overpowering. Very few designers could develop a piece which allows the diamond to be a part of something,” explains Francois Curiel, chairman of Christie’s Europe and Asia. We met in late 2017 during their unveiling of Creation I in Hong Kong, a masterpiece created by Fawaz Gruosi, founder of de Grisogono, which used the 163.41-carat flawless diamond. “The diamond itself is very rare, I’ve never seen a stone like that in the world. There may be others of that size but they’re brown diamonds or hold too many inclusions,” continues Curiel. “To find one this large and flawless is already a unique event in the world of jewellery.”

The story of this 163.41-carat treasure began in Angola, February 2016, as a colossal 404.20-carat rough diamond, named the ‘4 de Fevereiro’. Soon after its discovery de Grisogono acquired the piece

and Gruosi was tasked with deciding its future.

“I never thought that I would reach this level in my life. Creation I took a total of 1,700 hours, across six months with a team of 14 master craftsmen,” says the designer. “And we still have three more cuts to set from the original 404.20-carat diamond.”

As Curiel points out, it’s Grousi’s design that makes this story that much more exceptional. The necklace is a collaboration of diamonds and emeralds, each chosen and placed with just as much importance as the 163.41-carat emerald-cut centrepiece. Trailing on its left side are 18 more emerald-cut diamonds and to the right, two rows of pear and brilliantshaped emeralds in a flexible setting, allowing it to mould to the wearer’s neck (whoever she may eventually be once the final Christie’s auction takes place).

“I’m very fond of white and green. Throughout my collections I mix a lot of colours but my preference is always diamonds and emeralds, so I knew as soon as I began designing that it would marry the two,” explains Grousi. The inside setting is just as meticulous, engraved with the diamond’s weight and set with a cluster of delicate yellow diamonds.

“It’s like a secret between the necklace and the wearer, only they know the settings at the back.

The baguette diamonds building the chain are also interesting – cut from big to small in order to create the curve, ” notes Curiel.

Finally, as if this spectacular 163.41-carat gemstone isn’t breathtaking enough, de Grisogono decided to turn the creation into a transformable piece, also offering a chunky black bracelet to help frame the dazzling diamond. “I imagine the woman who owns this piece will wear it more often as a bracelet,” admits Curiel. “Its softer, more subdued, allowing for a day option and leaving Creation I for those exceptional moments.”

WHAT She’s WEARING

Words by Annie Darling

Women’s luxury timepieces are becoming increasingly decadent and complicated.

Here in the Middle East, it’s all about the extraordinary and the extravagant.

T H E W AT C H Y E A R

DIAMOND OUTRAGE AUDEMARS PIGUET Part three in a trilogy that started in 2015 with the highly-anticipated Diamond Punk, Swiss watch brand Audemars Piguet’s glittering creation, Diamond Outrage, is an exceptional example of diamond-set time-keeping. Elegant, yet angry, this powerful piece isn’t one for the faint-hearted, thanks to its sharp spikes and audacious shade of blue.

CHÂTEAU DE MÔTIERS 40 BOVET 1822 For almost two centuries, exquisite miniature paintings have adorned the cases and dials of Bovet 1822’s wristwatches.

The maison has subsequently delighted and captivated the most demanding connoisseurs of both the art world and fine watchmaking industry. In true form, Château de Môtiers 40’s release continues to push boundaries with an innovative technique that enables exceptional visibility of the mother-of-pearl dial by night, as it is by day. To achieve such a feat, the artist must repeatedly move from a lit room to a dark one while applying coats of luminescent paint in order to accurately balance the illustration’s detail. The phenomenal creation is perfected with a full skin alligator strap and selfwinding movement, complete with 42-hour power reserve.

EMERALD SOUTH PARTERRE DIOR An exploration of Versailles’s lush landscape and flirtatious fountains, Victoire de Castellane’s Emerald South Parterre timepiece is a dramatic treasure that encompasses the palace’s architectural opulence and botanical splendours.

Kaleidoscopic flowerbeds, ornamental ponds and buxom statues are epitomised through a well-balanced blend of white, yellow and pink gold. Meadow-green emeralds, tsavorite garnets, sky-blue sapphires and candyfloss-coloured sapphires are married with sunshine-yellow gemstones and royal-hued rubies. A fervent feast for the eyes, Dior’s most recent high jewellery timepiece is certainly one to covet.

VALSES D’HIVER CHAUMET An impossibly soft and irresistibly youthful grace commands Chaumet’s latest design aesthetic.

A majestic swirl of white gold, dazzling diamonds and plump-ripe pearls adorn this timepiece’s layered strap, which boasts a delicate movement that evokes the gentle rhythm of a classical Strauss waltz. Two brilliant-cut D colour diamonds totalling 1.27 carats are assembled alongside the lightest of gemstones that conjure elegant scenes from the Vienna Opera.

ROYAL OAK FROSTED GOLD LIMITED EDITION AUDEMARS PIGUET Following the success of the Royal Oak Frosted Gold late last year, the glittering model’s limited edition white gold alternative of only 200 pieces boasts an 18-karat case and bracelet. An anti-reflective sapphire crystal caseback and blue-toned ‘Grande Tapisserie’ dial completes this meticulously crafted timepiece. The distinguished Florentine finish is a superb textured surface decoration.

Invented decades ago, gold is pummelled with a diamondtipped tool, which creates tiny indentations on the surface that produces a sparkle reminiscent of diamond dust.

AZUREAN BRAID CHANEL Awash with sailing motifs – think kooky anchors, offbeat rope, and quirky knots – Chanel’s lighthearted Flying Cloud collection stays true to strict nautical codes, yet somehow manages to avoid becoming gimmicky. Take the Azurean Braid timepiece, for example; tempered with 658 brilliant-cut sparkling diamonds set within gleaming 18-karat white gold, it’s as breathtaking as it is luxurious. Here, the coil knot is reimagined with supreme artistry. The result?

A stupendously delicate and standout cuff that’s guaranteed to turn heads at any modish occasion.

MONETE PENDANT BVLGARI In homage to the world-famous brand’s origins, specifically founder Sotirios Bulgari, the Monete Pendant is rooted in classical Greek tradition and enhanced by Roman culture. An entirely skeletonised manualwinding gold tourbillion is hidden under an ancient coin – a silver tetradrachm – depicting Alexander the Great. A statement piece, the 41mm octagonal-shaped pink gold case is smothered in decadent diamonds and softpink rubies, mimicking motifs that adorn the ceiling of the Basilica di Massenzio in Rome.

LUNA DE GRISOGONO De Grisogono’s artisans dedicated more than six months to refining Luna’s impeccable shape, curve and delicate balance. From 3D modelling and gold casting to the piece’s gemsetting and polishing, this jewellery watch embodies the quintessential skills that have been cultivated by the illustrious brand.

A cambered and bevelled bezel, domed dial, and half-moon outline all contributes to this atypical timepiece that seamlessly merges outstanding technical sophistication with exceptional feminine beauty.

RUBAN SECRET WATCH VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Ample round diamonds smother this exquisite secret watch, sleekly capturing the soft suppleness of a dainty ribbon delicately tied around the wrist. The oversized, sparkling bow stealthily opens to reveal the time on its hidden, petite dial, as the Quartz movement steadily works to keep perfect time. Pink gold is set with blush-brushed sapphires, which graciously marry Van Cleef & Arpel’s two most longstanding passions: the mystery surrounding hidden treasure, and the pure enchantment of haute couture.

WHAT

He’s

WEARING From the impressively sleek to the impossibly handsome, upgrade your wrist game with some of the finest timepieces that have been released over the past year.

T H E W AT C H Y E A R

Drawing on over 165 years of history, GlashĂźtte Original manufactures excellently engineered watches

ALT1-P BREMONT 2017 marks the 10th anniversary since the launch of Bremont’s first collection of watches. Part of that launch collection back in 2007 was the ALT1-P chronograph, which has become popular with civilians and aviation professionals.

The ‘P’ stands for pilot and this model was designed with aviators in mind, offering both accuracy and clarity.

Bremont have always aimed to create classically understated watches that would never date and the ALT1-P has exemplified this, but this 2017 release is a nice update on the original.

New dials and hands housed in an updated case design remain 43mm in dimension. For the first time, a cream-coloured dial will be added to sit alongside the very well-known and respected blue and black variants.

There is an enlarged exhibition caseback with sapphire crystal that showcases a beautifully finished chronometre-rated automatic BE-53AE movement. SuperLumiNova hands and effective dial markers remain an important feature to maintain the legibility that the ALT1-P has become known for.

MOON PHASE 1 A. LANGE & SÖHNE The German brand have been making moon phase watches for some time now and this is the 20th to come out of their factory in Glashütte.

The new arrangement of the display has a separate solid-gold moon that hovers in orbit in the foreground.

Behind it, a celestial disc – also made from solid gold – performs exactly one revolution every 24 hours.

The different times of day are represented by varying blue hues caused by interference effects.

During the day, it shows a bright sky,

while at night it depicts a dark sky with prominently contrasting laser-cut stars. Thus, the moon always orbits against a realistic background that doubles as a day/night indicator when setting the watch.

Based on the Lange 1 movement that was introduced two years ago, it has the same performance attributes, including a power reserve of 72 hours and the precisely jumping outsize date display. And like many of the A. Lange & Söhne watches, it works with a suit and tie, as well as casual attire.

LUMINOR 1950 REGATTA ORACLE TEAM USA PANERAI A classic Panerai is revisited, paying tribute to the legend of the America’s Cup. Personalised with the colours of the logo, the Luminor 1950 is part of the 35th campaign and one of the oldest international sport competitions in the modern world.

Historically created for the commandos of the Italian Navy, the watch is made from AISI 316L stainless steel, as is the lever device protecting the crown, on which it exercises a light pressure that protects it from accidental shocks and helps to guarantee water-resistance

to 30 bars (about 300 metres). A special edition of 300 pieces, the polished bezel surrounds a classic Panerai black dial with its sandwich structure, on which large luminous linear markers and figures (the date at 3 o’clock and the small seconds counter at 9 o’clock) are all perfectly legible, even under conditions of little or no light.

Panerai’s have always been solid watches, but this one has the added tie-in with the America’sCup, while the extra flashes of colour really add something extra to the timepiece’s overall feel.

MP-09 TOURBILLON BI-AXIS HUBLOT Hublot’s never been the subtlest of brands.

Not one to hide away, it’s fitting that the thinking behind the MP-09 is to provide maximum visibility of the tourbillon, in addition to its double rotation.

Here, the function defines the form. This perfectly reflects the prevailing philosophy in the design of all of Hublot’s MPs, which is namely to develop an exclusive movement dedicated to function and specific external parts that highlight the motor.

The MP-09 features a self-winding mechanical movement boasting a five-day power reserve. It also features a bi-axial tourbillon that undertakes a complete rotation per minute for the axis, as well as a rotation every half a minute

for the second. This means that the dynamic movement of this double tourbillon frame has an appearance that’s as fascinating as it’s fun.

In order to offer the greatest possible visibility to its beating heart, watchmakers at Hublot Manufacture have created an all-new design for both the intricate movement and for the case.

There’s also an innovative date corrector, while the construction of the dial over several levels enhances its elegant character.

Around the hours and minutes display, the date indication is arranged in tiers in two half-circles on two distinct levels, while the 5-day power reserve is displayed in a gauge at 9 o’clock.

SENATOR CHRONOGRAPH PANORAMA DATE GLASHÜTTE The Glashütte Calibre 37 integrated chronograph movement triggered great excitement in the watch world when it came out in 2014. Its innovative, compact and highly functional design, precision and reliable performance earned the new column wheel chronograph immediate respect in the world of watch experts and connoisseurs.

Now Glashütte adds some sporty charm to the line-up. A distinctive new version of the Senator Chronograph Panorama Date in stainless steel now complements the elegant inaugural models.

The new Senator Chronograph Panorama Date has a contemporary design with a deep black dial set off by high-contrast

white print and enhanced by the use of radiant blue Super-LumiNova, which highlights the white gold hour, minute and stop seconds hands, Roman numerals at hours six and 12 and all hour indexes, permitting excellent legibility even in the dark.

The date is positioned in the lower half of the dial, beneath the upper-half triad formed by 30-minute and 12-hour chronograph counters and the small seconds display, in which the power reserve is integrated. There’s a choice of three different bracelets. Our pick is the black calfskin model sewn with blue thread, to complement the dial’s distinguished blue Super-LumiNova.

BR-X1 RS17 TOURBILLON BELL & ROSS The new Bell & Ross BR-RS17 collection features some bright flashes of colour, all based on the hues found on the steering wheel of the Renault F1 single-seater.

These complementary primary colours, rarely used in high-end watches, allow functions to be identified and prioritised according to the makers. And it’s always nice to see the odd flash of Renault yellow – ever since the French constructor entered F1 in 1977, its single-seaters have sported this shade.

On this tourbillon model, the flying tourbillon (one of the most impressive things you can have in a watch) compensates for the detrimental effect the earth’s

gravitational pull has on the mechanism and increases the accuracy of the watch.

It is incredibly complex, built with miniscule pieces and housed inside a ‘floating’ cage that is fitted on a hub but appears to suspend in the air.

The chronograph function is activated by a paddle-styled mono-pusher positioned to the right of the case. The key component of the system, the column wheel, coordinates the starting and stopping of the chronograph.

The timer indications are red and yellow.

The 4-day power reserve is shown in green, and white hands coated in SuperLuminova indicate the time.

NAVITIMER RATTRAPANTE BREITLING With its two superimposed central chronograph hands, of which one can be stopped so as to measure an intermediate (split) time, before ‘catching up’ (rattraper in French) with the first one still sweeping onwards, the split-seconds chronograph is considered one of the hardest watchmaking mechanisms to create.

The major challenge for the developers of a split-seconds chronograph movement relates to the level of energy. The constant stopping and starting of the split-seconds hand results in variable energy requirements that can prove detrimental to chronometric precision and reduce a watch’s power reserve.

One of the means of resolving this issue consists of equipping the movement with an isolating system serving to disconnect the split-seconds hand when it is stopped.

What makes this watch impressive are the new innovations that the team at Breitling introduced. Their new system has resulted in extremely precise stopping and a system that is simpler to produce and thus more reliable.

Even now, in the digital age of apps and smartphones, it’s nice to know that there are watchmakers driving innovation with mechanical watches and the incredible micro-engineering that these involve.

CLIFTON CLUB COBRA BAUME & MERCIER To celebrate the Shelby Cobra Daytona Coupe, Baume & Mercier has released a watch that’s inspired by the classic car.

In recognition of the speed record achieved by the Daytona at Le Mans in 1964, only 196 pieces will ever be produced, each numbered to prove its place in this exclusive collection.

Powered by a self-winding movement (La Joux-Perret 8147-2) with flyback chronograph function, the watch allows the wearer to move from one chronograph reading to another in a single button push. This 44mm diametre case is forged in titanium and polished stainless steel, a highly resistant and light material. Central to its persona is a dial inspired by Shelby designer Peter Brock himself, mirroring the half blue/half

silver-coloured Shelby livery chosen for the Daytona’s tail marking it as a true original.

Framing the bi-colour dial are modern Arabic numerals, while the horizontal chronograph counters are offset by a tachymetres scale that highlights the speed record of ‘196 mph’.

Between the hands that are illuminated with Superluminova C1 blue emission, is a vivid red chronograph second hand that features the iconic Cobra logo created

by Brock to mark the Shelby brand.

The Cobra insignia is forged into the case band in tribute to the Cobra 289 engine.

It comes in a presentation box with a 1:43 scale model of the Shelby Cobra Daytona Coupe, alongside an original card signed

by Brock himself.

AQUANAUT - 20TH ANNIVERSARY PATEK PHILIPPE 2017 marks the 20th birthday of Patek Philippe’s Aquanaut line that was first introduced in Basel in 1997. With the Aquanaut Ref. 5168G (a men’s wristwatch in 18-karat white gold), the manufacturer delivers impressive proof of how well the elegance of the noble metal complements a rugged and decidedly masculine watch that is water-resistant to a depth of 120 metres.

To commemorate the 20th anniversary of its exceptionally successful sporty Aquanaut series, Patek Philippe has planned several premieres. The new Ref. 5168G is the first men’s Aquanaut wristwatch in 18-karat white gold. With its somewhat warmer hue, it clearly sets itself apart from stainless steel.

But as with the other Aquanaut models

(and the Nautilus watches), the design of the gently rounded octagonal bezel with vertically satin-finished flats and chamfered, polished flanks remains unchanged.

With a diametre of 42mm, it is the largest model in this line in tribute to the original 1976 Nautilus of the same size that was nicknamed ‘Jumbo’ and today is still referred to by that name among collectors.

The night blue hue of the strap and dial are new updates. Additionally, the night blue colour of the dial gradiates from bright in the centre to black toward the outside, the finely embossed checkerboard pattern providing a good backdrop for the applied Arabic numerals in white gold.

The Panerai LAB-ID Luminor 1950 Carbotech 3 Days PAM 700 watch utilises different materials in its movement that have reduced friction to a minimum

INTO THE FUTURE

INTO THE

FUTURE Watchmaking is no longer about ageing men working in Alpine chalets, it’s increasingly about sterile labs and the hi-tech. MOJEH discovers why the industry is now embracing new materials and radical new ideas.

T

here was a time when mechanical watch design, haute horlogerie, was predicated on having at least one foot firmly in the past. Indeed, that was the point: the preservation of triedand-trusted craft methodologies, passed down from master to apprentice. “Using very traditional techniques and materials means these watches will be around for hundreds of years,” as Roger Smith, arguably the world’s greatest living watchmaker, has it. Smith is perhaps best known for improving the efficiency of the co-axial escapement designed by his mentor George Daniels, largely by reducing its weight. Yes, watchmaking

has long advanced by such very small steps, of-a-kind appreciated mostly by other watchmakers.

But perhaps a revolution is afoot in the watchmaking industry, characterised by an eager readiness to advance the efficiencies of mechanical movements by any means necessary, even if that requires embracing the latest technologies, rather than merely refining those already well-established.

Take lubrication, for example. “It’s the massive issue in watchmaking,” Carole Forestier, Cartier’s head of movement design, stresses. “Even

the most basic movement has 60 points that need oil and six different types of oil in certain quantities. Have too little and you’re back to diminishing durability.

Have too much and it gets everywhere.

And the perfect oil doesn’t exist yet either, so it has to be changed. Solve that problem and it would completely change the way watches were made.”

So imagine the excitement at watchmaker Panerai earlier this year when it unveiled its pioneering LAB-ID watch. It’s liquid lubricant-free. Instead, it keeps the cogs and gears running smoothly by covering them with DLC (diamond-like coating) while bridges

Top to bottom: Classic Fusion Chronograph Berluti Scritto King Gold, HUBLOT | T-Touch Expert Solar II, TISSOT | Excalibur Quatuor, ROGER DUBUIS

and plates are made from a composite material integrating a Tantalumbased ceramic, whatever that is. With many watchmakers proudly boasting of the high number of jewels employed in their movement design – these tiny gems have long been used to reduce friction at the points of heaviest wear – Panerai boasts that its new watch has only four. The dial is covered with carbon nanotubes to reduce reflection.

The case is made of Carbotech, a light, corrosion-free composite. This is a mechanical watch that looks forward.

It is, as the company puts it – as though this material was a shockingly new thing to watchmaking – an expression of ‘Advanced Technology’.

But, interestingly, nor is Panerai alone.

If independent watchmakers have long been overshadowed by the big guns of mechanical watchmaking – those brands either global in standing or historic in import – in recent years many have come to fore, bringing their often radical but genuinely progressive ideas as to what constitutes modern watchmaking. Felix Baumgartner, one half of the duo behind the Urwerk watch company, recalls that when he was training as a watchmaker, “contemporary watchmaking just didn’t exist – and what there was wasn’t respected. Of course, there’s still a space for those companies that want to protect all the watchmaking traditions, but I think now there’s also a space for makers to explore new possibilities, both in terms of movement design and watch aesthetics.”

Indeed, according to Benoit Mintiens, the owner/designer of Ressence watches – who, as a product designer by training and an outsider to the watch industry, admits to being somewhat overly critical of it – experimentation with new production methods, materials and ideas is the preserve of more niche companies such as his and the likes of HYT or MB&F. “It’s too expensive for the giants of watchmaking to, for example,

change their approach to production,” he says. “Indeed, most of the industry is conservative for three reasons. One is technical and one is economic. If you’re deciding whether to spend millions developing a new alloy or putting it into advertising, then it typically goes to the ad campaign, because the alloy is unlikely to sell many more watches.

But it’s also cultural. For many brands tradition is precisely what they’re about.

Can you imagine A. Lange & Söhne suddenly saying they’re going to work with some high-tech material? It’s not going to happen.”

Perhaps the question is: should it? Given – over the long term – the smartwatch’s inevitable influence on the perception of what a watch actually is, what it’s for, and what it represents? Benoit concedes that pushing new ideas in watch technology is not easy. With Ressence’s first model he wanted to use aluminium for the dial. “But I soon found out that, when you treat it against oxidisation, the tolerances all change, and the jewels just fell right through it. It was a nightmare,” he recalls. “And when that technical issue was solved, the watchmakers had no idea how to work with aluminium and deformed the dials. ‘But we’ve never worked with aluminium!’ they complained, even though it’s used in every other industry.

That made me more cautious about using ‘new’ materials. A few months ago I tried to do something with magnesium and, well, don’t go there…”

But for all these challenges, arguably the industry is going to have to change its ways to meet the expectations of younger consumers, more sold on products and experiences than brands, according to studies. Take, for example, the issue of weight – precisely why Mintiens had wanted to use aluminium. Four years ago Patek Philippe auctioned a watch for charity, raising €AED12.6 million in the process. The allure of this timepiece was that it was a one-off, specifically in that it was made in titanium. As the

Master watchmaker Felix Baumgartner is part of the duo behind the industrial and masculine timepieces from Urwerk

company noted, it typically only uses “traditional materials”, the likes of steel, gold and platinum – solid, dependable, heavyweight materials. Clearly, the watch was not perceived as being lesser for its fewer ounces.

But that is relatively a new idea: historically weight has been perceived concomitant with quality, a lack of it with a lack of substance. As Peter Harrison, the CEO of Richard Mille, puts it: “The idea of Patek Philippe using a lightweight material would have been considered laughable not that long ago. Of course, there’s still a market for the kind of

chunky gold watch, for the kind of man who sits in an oak-panelled boardroom and wants something heavy and jangly dangling from his wrist to show who he is. But they’re followers not leaders.

And the people that drive trends are thinking differently.”

Certainly, millennials are more inclined to equate weight with wastefulness and inefficiency, and a lack of weight with modernity. They still want durability and reliability, without the heft – and they expect technology to deliver this.

This perspective is one reason why Richard Mille developed its super-light

RM27-01, ostensibly for the tennis champion Raphael Nadal who, unlike most sponsored players, actually wanted to wear the watch during play.

Mille had worked with Nadal for some years, “and he would keep breaking the watches too, but that was OK because it just obliged us to make them tougher and to experiment with different materials.” Even so, the forces exerted during serving continued to slowly rattle the movement to bits. Mille’s solution?

The entire movement was made to be free-floating, suspended on four 0.35mm-thick braided steel cables.

There is more interest in technology across the high-end watch industry than meets the eye. The question is: why the secrecy?

The result? The watch is said to be able to withstand accelerations of over 5000G. The model’s case is also made out of carbon nanotubes, meaning that the watch, including strap, weighs just 19 grammes.

“We’re dealing with a generation that is as likely to wear, if anything, a Fitbit on their wrist as a watch,” says Harrison.

“They’re just not hung up on tradition.

It’s why Richard Mille has always strived to make its watches as ergonomic as possible, which has meant working with new materials and finding new methods. All that is treating watch design with the same criteria that you’d find in any good product design.

“You’ll always get the customer who wants a carbon fibre watch just because it’s black – they like the tech aesthetic rather than its benefit,” Harrison adds.

“But, long term, I just don’t see how the traditional watch industry can survive if it stays with traditional methods – anymore, given hybrid technology and automation, makers of cars with traditional combustion engines can

The partnership between professional tennis player Rafael Nadal and Richard Mille has led to a string of timepiece successes

expect to survive with changing. How many men do you see wearing a threepiece suit these days? And even if you do go to a modern tailor, they’re using the kind of more functional fabrics they would not have used a decade ago.”

The shift towards modernity is happening, but slowly. To stay with the question of weight, recent years have seen, for example, the likes of Tissot, Hamilton and Hublot launch pieces with solid aluminium watch cases; Roger Dubuis created its Excalibur Quatuor in silicon, also an extremely lightweight material, which is half the weight of titanium.

There is more interest in technology across the high-end watch industry than might be apparent on the surface. Developments are under the radar because the industry seems to like it that way. Forestier – mistress of 3D printing and rapid prototyping in the development of her designs for Cartier – expresses exasperation at brands, “still pushing that old idea of watchmaking being done in a chalet on a mountain top, when watch production is essentially high-tech – an image much of the industry seems scared of”.

The issue is rather the enthusiasm with which advances are pursued, or the speed at which they’re adopted when clearly available – much as ceramic and titanium have finally come to enjoy greater use in watchmaking.

And whether both can be increased.

“I have a friend, for example, who owns perhaps five Patek Philippes and he says that he won’t be buying another one,” notes Richard Mille, whose company was the first to borrow North Thin Ply (laminating) Technology from yacht racing and apply it to a watch. “Don’t get get me wrong – Patek and the like make fantastic watches. But he says he can no longer get excited by them. Collectors are very passionate about watches but

perhaps they need something more extreme, more directional.”

Mintiens asks, too, whether such technological advances are being embraced for the right reason – because they’re a trend, or because they offer a certain look, rather than because they offer new efficiencies. While most concede that there will always be a demand for mechanical watches – as expressions of craftsmanship, which in turn may come to be seen as an expression of history – he

remains skeptical of the prospects of the industry embracing tech for much more than lip-service.

“A friend once said to me that if the car industry was progressive in the same way as the watch industry, we’d have carbon fibre wheels, but we’d still be moving about in carriages,” he says with a laugh. “And, for the time being at least, I think that explains the watch industry’s attitude. There’s a lot of technology, but most of it is basically there for marketing reasons.”

HOROLOGICAL

HERITAGE FabergĂŠ is probably still more famous for its extravagant ornamental eggs than its watches. But here is a model that could tip the balance.

THE MAISON

The Visionnaire Chronograph’s movement is automatic and visible, alongside its winding rotor, through the beautifully-made sapphire case back

Words by Chris Anderson

W

hen most people think of the Fabergé name, the image often tends to be of the way the brand once was, before the Russian Revolution of 1917. These were the days when Peter Carl Fabergé, commissioned by the Russian Tsars, would create elaborate jewel-encrusted eggs in his St Petersburg workshop, to be presented as gifts at Easter, with each containing some form of surprise, such as a gold or silver miniature and even more precious stones. Today, these items occasionally change hands for millions at auction.

So well known are the Imperial Easter eggs, it can often come as a surprise that Fabergé makes other jewellery items, including watches. “It’s true,” says Aurelie Picaud, the brand’s global timepieces director. “Not many people realise that Fabergé offers timepiece collections, or additionally that two of our watches have won a Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) award. But Fabergé has created objects with timekeeping components since the beginning, and these historic creations continue to inspire the design and development of the contemporary timepiece collections today.”

By contemporary, Picaud means 2013 onwards, which is when the Fabergé name was acquired by mining company Gemfields,

who relaunched it as a high end jewellery house. After the Fabergé family fled to Paris in 1917, the brand changed hands many times over the years and was even applied, at one stage, to Brut aftershave. A high point came when a Fabergé egg was used as a major plot point in the 1980s James Bond movie Octopussy, which helped to raise the maison’s profile once again.

Now it has returned to its luxury roots, although some are yet to make a connection between the Fabergé name and haute horlogerie.

Case in point: the debut of the Visionnaire Chronograph at Baselword earlier this year.

It is common for one particular innovation or design to become the talk of the event, but attendees rarely consider Fabergé to be the brand that presents it to them.

Picaud explains, “It’s definitely our most unexpected timepiece to date, as it houses a revolutionary interpretation of the chronograph. Peter Carl Fabergé had a penchant for surprise, as we saw with the Imperial Easter eggs, and in keeping with that tradition, here is a watch that surprises with its movement.”

The secret mechanism is the calibre AGH6361, known as the AgenGraphe, created

by Aghenhor, a Swiss boutique movement maker that specialises in complications.

The same company devised the movement

The Visionnaire DTZ watch - a dual time zone piece - is unlike any other

18-karat rose gold and titanium or, alternatively, black ceramic and titanium encompass the Visionnaire Chronograph’s white opaline or black dial

for the award-winning Visionnaire DTZ, a dual time zone watch, released last year.

The Chronograph shares a few visual traits with its predecessor, such as the hour and minute hands along the outermost circumference of the dial and the complication in the centre, but adds even more complexity.

It has three hands at the centre of its chronograph arrangement, plus the two outer hands, mounted on a single spindle.

This frees up space inside the movement, with multi-functional snail cams, low-torque spiral springs and a lateral-friction clutch added to reduce vibration and increase accuracy.

The design is said to be very different to a conventional chronograph movement, with Fabergé hailing it a world first. “Nearly a decade of work and five horologicallysignificant patents are employed in the calibre 6361,” Picaud adds.

Aghenhor, run by watchmaker Jean-Marc Weiderrecht, is no stranger to luxury watch

A unique black and yellow Visionnaire Chronograph will be auctioned for charity by Christie’s in Geneva

brands, and has worked with Harry Winston, Van Cleef & Arpels and Hermès. Fabergé enlisted Weiderrecht’s help to produce a watch of the highest standards in time for an important anniversary. “It was our intention to release the timepiece in 2017 to honour 100 years since the start of the Russian Revolution,” says Picaud.

It was a year that marked huge change, as the brand’s founding family had to leave the country, but it also meant that the last of the Imperial Easter eggs – the Constellation Egg – was never finished.

Only two empty halves, sat on a cloud made from rock crystal, remain, but old drawings reveal that a clock mechanism was supposed to be added, plus a concentric ring, reminiscent of planets like Saturn.

In many ways, the Visionnaire Chronograph has been influenced by the Constellation Egg. “There is a laser-engraved etching of the egg, visible to those who know where to find it,” Picaud enthusiastically reveals. “Then the design, with the outer watch dial and the chronograph function at the centre, is like the egg, which would have also had a ring around the outside.”

But there is more to the story. While the

Visionnaire Chronograph will be available in two versions – a choice of rose gold, or black and grey DLC-treated ceramic – there will be a special edition, the Only Watch. This is the titanium version with added yellow detailing, a special engraving and textile strap, to be auctioned for charity by Christie’s, under the patronage of HSH Prince Albert II of Monaco.

For each version of the Visionnaire Chronograph, the cases are 43mm wide, with a 60-hour power reserve. Water resistance is up to 50 metres, and the prices are AED127,000 (USD34,500) for the black ceramic model and AED145,000 (USD39,500) for the rose gold. Anyone looking to buy the Only Watch will unfortunately need to fund a plane ticket to Geneva.

But perhaps this is the kind of activity that Fabergé needs in order to draw the attention to its products and away from luxurious eggs: a watch that is technically different to any other, and in many ways superior; an anniversary to showcase an important event in its history; and an auction for an exclusive model. With all of this, an appearance in another Bond movie may not be necessary, although Daniel Craig might still need a new watch.

RESTORING CLASSICS Words by Annie Darling

Audemars Piguet claims it can repair any watch. MOJEH visits their workshop in Le Brassus, Switzerland, to find out the truth.

T H E H E R I TA G E

T

o get a glimpse into the future, sometimes watch aficionados must look into the past. Particularly when high-end vintage timepieces have been selling for record-setting prices. Audemars Piguet, founded in 1839, is the oldest haute horlogerie manufacturer still in the hands of its founding families. Today, the company is helmed by Jasmine Audemars, the great-granddaughter of Jules Louis Audemars, the company’s co-founder with Edward-Auguste Piguet. Since the mid-19th Century, the beloved Swiss maison has written some of the finest chapters in the history of watchmaking, and it claims that it’s able to repair any of its watches, regardless of the piece’s age or model.

Audemars Piguet restores these beautifully fragile antique pieces in the very same building in which the company was first founded. Sleepily nestled in the quaint Swiss village of Le Brassus, Vallée de Joux’s deep-seated valleys, vast stretches of lake and uninhabited wilderness dominate the landscape this maison has decided to call home. Although drenched in sunlight for six months of the year, the region is smothered in snow throughout winter. This extreme weather is why the area has become renowned for fine watchmaking. Farmers sought out alternative sources of income during the cold and harsh winter months, and subsequently started to craft watch parts that they could sell on to firms, both in Geneva and abroad.

Michael Friedman’s extensive career in watches first began in 1996, and he’s since gained a sterling reputation as an established horological appraiser, curator, and auctioneer.

As Audemars Piguet’s brand historian, he has the responsibility of acquiring the maison’s rarest watches. “The relationship and kinship between technology and art advancement, having one foot in the past and one in the future, is not a contemporary notion or idea. It’s in the fabric of the company,” he says about Audemars Piguet’s passion for restoration. “The company was created during the industrial revolution when most of the watchmaking industry went automotive.”

In an energetic American accent, he adds: “In the States, we started producing watches by the millions. It was the same with the United Kingdom, but in Switzerland, they said, ‘You know what? We’re going to keep doing things primarily the traditional way.’” Today, Audemars Piguet produces about 38,000 watches each year; Rolex, by comparison, produces close to a million. Rather than inventing numerous models, Audemars Piguet focuses on achieving a remarkable degree of horological perfection for a limited, and therefore special, few, which also gives artisans more time to repair antique pieces.

“Some of the earliest watches that we work with and work on are those with a perpetual calendar,” reveals Friedman, “which tracks the face of the moon. This intricacy and detail was really central to survival in earlier times and, later, for aesthetics as well. People love to see that slower passage of time on their timepiece.”

The French-speaking team who work studiously in the peaceful workshop at Le Brassus take an estimated 200 hours to restore each watch they receive. Fixing a broken screw can often take over 15 minutes, and a pocket watch has more than one hundred screws – it’s time-consuming work. Replacement parts, some of which are as small as a hundredth of a millimetre, must be sourced firsthand from various locations throughout the world, or alternatively reproduced with the same instruments that were painstakingly used over a century ago. In the corner, ledger pages handwitten in splattered ink document every Audemars Piguet watch ever made. It’s proudly tucked away in a cabinet that’s overwhelmed with worn wooded boxes that housed the brand’s original 19th Century pieces. Audemars Piguet, it would seem, are passionate about reviving its illustrious past.

CAPTURED IN TIME

MATERIAL INNOVATION From chunks of smouldering meteorite to lumps of fighter aircraft, brands are experimenting with materials that push the limits of modern watchmaking.

ROGER DUBUIS EXCALIBUR SPIDER PIRELLI The strap features rubber inlays from certified Pirelli-winning tyres.

The flying tourbillon is one of the grand complications of watchmaking, so to have two in a single piece is next level. But what Roger Dubuis does is incorporate that into one of their Pirelli collaborations to give it a whole new look.

Its sturdy 47mm-diametre black titanium skeleton case includes Pirelli vulcanised blue rubber accents highlighting its titanium crown and ‘container’. Fans of fine mechanics and workings get a full transparent view of the new RD105SQ Calibre with its signature blue Astral Skeleton. The flying tourbillons at 5 and 7 o’clock are rimmed by speedometre-like second counters complete with automobile-inspired pointers, while the multi-coloured power-reserve indicator represents a cool nod to racing-car cockpit fuel gauges.

There are only eight pieces in this limited edition but they do come with a moneycan’t-buy high adrenaline experience: a two-day VIP program organised by Pirelli at a future motorsport event.

LOUIS MOINET JURASSIC WATCH Wear a dial made from dinosaur bone on your wrist.

As fans of Louis Moinet know, the firm loves all things unusual. On its Mecanograph City watches, it was the first to include fragments of lunar meteorites and other rocks from the far-flung corners of the universe. Meanwhile, the Treasures of the World collection has opened up another creative path: that of dials made from rare, fossilised stones. Derived from the Mecanograph family, the Jurassic Watch is the first to feature a dial made from Jurassic-era dinosaur bone – between 145 and 200 million years old.

The mechanical heart of the Jurassic Watch is the certified Mecanograph chronometre, and the unique timepiece comes with a 43.5mm-diametre case made from rose gold. The dinosaur bone in question, discovered in North America, has been authenticated by geologist Dr. Andreas Stucki, in association with the Aathal Dinosaur Museum in Switzerland. The bone itself is from the family of large herbivores (the likes of Diplodocus) that used to wander North America millions of years ago. Now you can carry fossilised remains with you as you wander.

CHRISTOPHER WARD C9 P2725 TM-B LIMITED EDITION This limited-edition watch contains a piece of fighter aircraft.

On 15 September, 1940, a Hawker Hurricane fighter plane, call sign P2725 TM-B, was being flown by Flight Lieutenant Ray Holmes over London. The RAF were defending the capital from another attack by the German Luftwaffe, something that was a near nightly occurrence, and Holmes was up there trying to shoot down incoming planes.

Out of bullets, and with Buckingham Palace at the mercy of an oncoming Luftwaffe bomber, Holmes made the staggering decision to ram the German bomber mid-air with his smaller and lighter Hawker Hurricane. The impact took out both planes.

Watchmaker Christopher Ward, and their partners at TMB Art Metal, excavated its wreckage from underneath Buckingham Palace Road, and it’s part of this very plane that’s been used in the making of the striking limited edition P2725 TM-B watch, released to help celebrate the 100th anniversary of the RAF. Limited to 100 pieces, the back casing of the watch has been engraved with a map of central London and its crash site identified with a red dot.

BREMONT CODEBREAKER SS LIMITED EDITION A number of real historical artefacts are incorporated into the design.

UK watchmaker Bremont’s Codebreaker is a flyback chronograph with GMT function, made in collaboration with the historical Bletchley Park Trust. The park’s important role as the centre of code breaking operations for the British Army during the Second World War is highlighted in the maison’s vintage-styled model by incorporating numerous real historical artefacts into the design, including parts of the punchcards used for code breaking.

Only 240 steel and 50 18-karat rose gold Codebreakers have ever been produced, and to mark each piece, Bremont secured segments of five extremely rare punchcards, which are cleverly used on the side of the timepiece’s case, thus denoting each watch’s unique serial number.

Powered by the BE-83AR self-winding chronograph with 46-hour power reserve based on the Valjoux 7750, the watch’s movement was modified to suit this limited edition piece’s precise specifications – most notably, a flyback mechanism which was added along with a GMT hand.

ROMAIN JEROME MOON DUST CHRONOGRAPH Fragments of the Apollo 11 spacecraft and actual moon dust are embedded into this incredible watch.

In homage to the most incredible human adventure of all, the conquest of space, Romain Jerome’s Moon DustDNA collection incorporates authentic fragments from the aerospace universe, including fragments from the Apollo 11 spacecraft and the International Space Station.

In an exceptional attempt to denote the moon’s sombre shades of grey, craggy cliffs and desolate craters, Romain Jerome watchmakers have adopted a revolutionary procedure from the world of art, and applied mineral coating comprising of authentic moon dust, which is combined with natural pigments.

Meanwhile, in an additional twist, the piece’s hour and minute hands are influenced by the solar panels of a spacecraft. An extraordinary, and handsome, wristwatch, the Moon Dust Chronograph is certainly one that’ll have heads turning. A wearable black and silver colour-combination makes the piece surprisingly versatile. After all, not many gentlemen can claim to have worn something that’s from outer space,

DE BETHUNE DREAM WATCH 5 The case is made from the largest meteorite ever found on Earth.

The largest meteorite ever found on Earth weighed 600 tonnes before entering the planet’s atmosphere around 4,000 years ago. Ever since it was first discovered in 1576, some 100 tonnes of meteorite has been recovered, including a three-kilogram lump, which was used to create the case of De Bethune’s Dream Watch 5.

The 49mm by 39mm case is pared-down and shaped to look like a futuristic spaceship, showing off distinctive depth effects and a cabochon-cut ruby that decorates the crown at 3 o’clock. Mirror-polished titanium is handfinished alongside a 329-part mechanical hand-wound Calibre DB2144 with five days of power reserve.

Self-regulating twin barrels, a silicon and white gold balance wheel, balance spring with flat end curve, triple parachute shock-absorbing system and silicon escape wheel all adds to the creation’s overall feel and ability, thus contributing to De Bethune’s already sterling reputation as a watchmaker that’s driven by an unquenchable passion for innovation and excellence.

O U T

T H I W S O R L D

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Known for producing some of the most interesting and complicated watches available, MB&F have become famous for merging traditional watchmaking with futuristic, fiercely unconventional, timekeeping methods.

INTO THE FUTURE

DESTINATION MOON MB&F founder Maximilian Büsser said of his Destination Moon machine: “In the 1960s, science fiction had us flying through the air on hoverboards and our imaginations soared, but we ended up with non-hovering boards with wheels on solid ground. Science fiction promised us 3D TV and engineers delivered, but we took one look, felt queasy and out they went. Science fiction filled our imaginations with elegant ovoid-shaped rockets that would fly us to the moon and beyond. Again engineers delivered, but the rockets, although eminently practical, ended up being straight, uninspiring cylinders. Some things are best left to the imagination and MB&F’s Destination Moon does just that. It delivers just enough engineering for an eight-day clock looking like an exciting science fiction rocket from the 1960s, but with plentiful empty space allowing our imaginations to fill in the details.”

Conceived by MB&F and built by L’Epée 1839, Switzerland’s premier clock maker, Destination Moon is the quintessential torpedo-shaped rocket of childhood dreams.

Developed specifically, the architecture of L’Epée’s eight-day movement follows the basic design of a real spaceship. Power in a rocket comes from its base; the power for Destination Moon comes from the oversized winding crown in its base.

The management and control systems of a rocket are above the power source; the same holds true for Destination Moon, which has a vertical regulator controlling precision below the time display, as well as a time-setting knob at the top of the movement. That eye-catching regulator with its animated balance is protected from cosmic radiation (and curious fingers) by a small panel of mineral glass.

MUSIC MACHINE 3 MB&F celebrated its tenth anniversary in 2015 with the tagline: “A creative adult is a child who survived.” This machine is based on the TIE Fighters from Star Wars – a film that Maximilian Büsser, who was 10 years old when he first saw Star Wars in 1977, is a big fan of.

Those lattice-like vertical wings support and protect the dual music cylinders, each playing three melodies: the theme tunes from Star Wars, Mission Impossible, and James Bond on the right and The Godfather, Merry Christmas Mr. Lawrence, and The Persuaders on the left. Those side wings also play a vital role in propagating sound vibrations down from the combs to the naturally amplifying resonant base, manufactured by JMC Lutherie.

This timepiece may appear to come from a galaxy far, far away; however, its origins are much older and much closer to home, featuring all

of the traditional elements of a beautifully arranged, high-end mechanical music box, it was developed and crafted according to MB&F’s design

by Reuge, the Swiss music box manufacturer with 150 years of expertise and experience.

Powered by two independent movements mounted on the two tail sections, each has its own winding key (disguised as thrusters), a mainspring barrel, horizontal cylinder with pins, and comb with hand-tuned teeth sounding each note. An air regulator in the form of a circular fan (resembling a rotating radar dish) governs the unwinding speed/music tempo of each cylinder.

Music boxes amplify sound through their wooden cases, much like guitars and violins do, but Music Machine 3 is designed to transmit the musical vibrations from the combs down the two vertical side wings to its resonance base.

THE OCTOPOD MB&F’s latest art piece, The Octopod, is a polycarbonate sphere sitting on eight legs that are constructed out of a 31-piece structure of stainless steel, nickel, and palladium-plated brass. Each of those legs can be articulated to set the Octopod in various poses.

Octopod continues MB&F’s exploration of aquatic themes with an eight-leg, eightday clock inspired by cephalopods, marine chronometres and film, The Abyss (1989) – blending contemporary design with kinetic sculpture and a transparent bubble filled with precision horology.

Each leg can be individually adjusted to varying heights, enabling Octopod to rest securely on the most uneven of surfaces, just like a real octopus. However, the real horological

magic and mystery takes place in Octopod’s completely transparent spherical ‘head’.

The first thing to notice is that Octopod’s transparent sphere is gimballed in a similar way to how traditional ship chronometres were gimballed – although on one axis rather than two – so that they remained flat despite the rolling of the ship. In Octopod’s case, the gimbal ensures that no matter what angle or height it sits, it is easy to rotate the bubble so that the time display inside is at the ideal plane for maximum legibility.

The works are suspended, so that it appears to be floating. The baseplate of the movement is a transparent glass plate that has been treated with a film of anti-reflective coating on both sides so that it is virtually invisible.

ASTROGRAPH The maison Caran d’Ache and MB&F combined their expertise for the Astrograph writing instrument, an artistic union that took four years of discussions to perfect. The result of this collaboration is an instrument that includes a multitude of innovative features among a total of 99 components: a ‘detent’ system of vertical stabilisation, launch-pad box, and magnetic figurine.

It took a whole year to develop the final model and takes more than 500 manual operations to produce each writing instrument. The slim, curved body of the Astrograph, is immediately reminiscent of the outline of a space rocket.

Its fluid design is accentuated by a chequered pattern, while the proportions have been designed to ensure that the whole body is perfectly balanced so that it rests perfectly in the hand.

The structure is articulated by an ingenious mechanism inspired by penknives: a miniature lever – the entry door to the rocket, concealed in the ring of the pen – activates the simultaneous and symmetrical lowering of three stabiliser legs. These, just like the miniature ladder than runs alongside the ‘thruster engines’ have parts that are sandblasted, satin-finished and rhodium-plated. Once the stabiliser legs have been deployed, it is possible to stand Astrograph up, vertically, ready for take-off.

The instrument unscrews to reveal a fountain pen inside the fuselage. The fountain pen is ‘launched’ from its ‘base’ to join the hand that will write the rest of the story, setting down on paper dreams of space, speed and conquest. At this point, Astrograph’s tactile dimension takes on its full significance: touch it, feel the smooth run of the screw thread when you undo the cap and the way the rhodium-plated 18-karat gold nib glides across the paper.

ARACHNOPHOBIA Engineered and crafted by L’Epée 1839 – Switzerland’s only specialised high-end clock manufacture – Arachnophobia was inspired by a giant spider sculpture called Maman by Louise Bourgeois, which Büsser had seen in both Geneva and Doha.

Büsser developed the highly unusual concept with L’Epée, by selecting a high-end L’Epée clock movement; subsequently re-imagining it as the mechanical head and torso of a spider.

The body is outfitted with a black dome with white numerals depicting the hours and minutes and it boasts a power reserve of eight days.

At either end of Arachnophobia’s time-displaying abdomen, important mechanical processes take place: the head houses the regulator with its oscillating balance wheel, while the other end contains the mainspring barrel, which powers the movement. Attached to the abdomen are eight legs articulated where they join the body by ball-and-socket joints.

The legs can be rotated so that Arachnophobia can stand tall on a desk or splayed flat for wall mounting.

American actor Steve McQueen wearing the TAG Heuer Monaco chronograph watch in the 1971 movie Le Mans

THE ICONS

GULF I - Monaco CW2118, 2005, TAG HEUER

GULF II - Monaco CW211A, 2007, TAG HEUER

GULF III- CAW2113, 2009, TAG HEUER

TIMEPIECE I

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Much the same as their predecessors (at least - at a glance), MOJEH examines the exemplary watches that have been upgraded with state-of-the-art movements and ingenious design aesthetics.

CHANGING FACES Tag Heuer’s Monaco Gulf Special Edition 50th Anniversary

Back in 1967, the first cars painted in the Gulf livery started racing after Grady Davis, the vice-president of Gulf Oil, bought a Ford GT40 and formed a racing team. After winning the 1,000-kilometres of Spa-Francorchamps, Belgium, an endurance race for sports cars, the team entered the famous Le Mans 24-hour race in 1968 and 1969. It was here that the world first took notice of the Gulf liver.

Meanwhile, the Heuer Monaco was the first water-resistant automatic chronograph with a square case in the history of Swiss watchmaking. It took its name from the Monaco Formula One race, but became famous when Steve McQueen wore one in the 1971 film Le Mans, while driving a Porsche 917 and dressed in the equally iconic white race suit. Heuer and McQueen became one of the most successful branding partnerships in watchmaking and the two were forever intrinsically linked.

The TAG Heuer Monaco Gulf Special Edition 50th Anniversary is the fourth Monaco dedicated to Gulf. The biggest point of difference for this year’s special edition is the sunray-brushed dial, which is characterised by blue and orange Gulf Oil stripes on the right side of the navy face. Protected by a bevelled, domed sapphire crystal, a date window’s positioned at 6 o’clock alongside diamondpolished horizontal hour indices. A small Gulf logo is visible just above the date window.

The movement, visible through a sapphire display back, is the Swiss automatic TAG Heuer Calibre 11 with 59 jewels, 28,800 vibrations per hour and a power reserve of 40 hours. It’s presented on a blue calf-skin leather strap with orange lining and stitching and a steel folding clasp. Only 4,000 are being made and it will become a collector’s piece.

DUAL DESIGNS Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Reverso 2017

Reverso Tribute Duoface in pink gold, JAEGER-LECOULTRE

In 1930, Swiss businessman and watch collector César de Trey was travelling through India and attended a polo match at a club for British army officers. One of the polo players had broken the glass front on his watch during a game, and de Trey put this to Jacques-David LeCoultre, owner of the LeCoultre manufacture. LeCoultre appointed the firm Jaeger S.A. to create a reversible case, which invented the, now famous, slide-and-flip mechanism that allows the wearer to flip over the watch face, thus protecting it and revealing a caseback that could be personalised.

The design of the 2017 Reverso Tribute Moon draws inspiration from the original Reverso watch, but rather than a blank reverse, engraving or piece of art, it offers two contrasting dials, each displaying a different time zone. The front evokes the Art Deco style of the original, an art movement that started as a symbiosis between form and function, making it ideal for a watch like this.

The Dauphine hands move across a silvered, grained dial, and point towards thin, raised hour-markers, while the iconic railtrack minute circle around its edge is punctuated by a small seconds at 6 o’clock.

At six o’clock, a moon disc hammered into shape entirely by hand shows the current lunar phase. The date is indicated by a crescent moon set on the end of a delicate hand at its rim.

A trigger discreetly built into the top of the case allows the second time-zone to be set without affecting the front. It’s a mechanical marvel that all this can be fitted into one small watch and inside a rectangular case with 223 individual parts all playing a role and offering a 42-hour power reserve.

TESTING TIME Montblanc’s Timewalker Collection

Far more than a mechanical timing device – it’s an instrument that enforces the gentleman’s code of fair play and good sportsmanship, becoming witness and judge to almost every type of sporting competition. Of all the motor sports, car racing is the one that has always had an intricate link to the chronograph. The history of competitive driving and performance timing are so inseparable that one could not exist without the other. With the capacity to capture and record time for eternity, the chronograph has borne witness to some outstanding automotive sporting moments.

Founded in 1858 in Villeret in the Saint-Imier Valley, Minerva developed stopwatches that could measure 1/5th of a second by as early as 1911, rapidly increasing to 1/10th of a second. In this innovative spirit, in 1916 Minerva was one of the first to produce a high-frequency movement that could measure 1/100th of a second, a development that was further technically improved in 1936, putting the maison on the map as a specialist in professional watches and stopwatches.

The new Montblanc TimeWalker collection combines these legendary timing instruments of the past with the spirit of motor racing, encapsulating the Minerva heritage, technology, highest performance and the style of the glory days of racing.

In order to guarantee the reliability of such a sporty professional product line, all the Montblanc TimeWalker models undergo over 500 hours of controls, with specific testing and general operating evaluation under extreme conditions.

To also ensure sporting performance in terms of waterproofness, all the models are water-resistant to 100 metres – proof that Montblanc are continuing to successfully pursue new technological challenges.

Top to bottom: Horsemen watch, Football watch, MONTBLANC

50th Anniversary Speedmaster, 2007, OMEGA

Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch, 1968, OMEGA

Speedmaster 38mm ‘Cappuccino’, 2017, OMEGA

BIGGER AND BETTER Omega’s Speedmaster

As many timepiece aficionados already know and appreciate, 2017 marks an important anniversary for the OMEGA brand, which – for well over half a century – has produced formidable timepieces that have witnessed events that have tested the limits of physical endurance, as well as human courage. Most famously, the Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch was worn during the first manned lunar landing in the summer of 1969 by American engineer and astronaut Buzz Aldrin. Various models have been worn by all space explorers aboard every one of NASA’s piloted missions since 1965.

OMEGA’s 60th anniversary has been celebrated with a number of exceptional models, including tributes to three classic watches all released in 1957: The Seamaster 300, the Railmaster and the Speedmaster. For the latter, in keeping with the brand’s well-known and beloved masculine aesthetic, simplicity once again meets innovation, while master chronometre precision takes centre stage.

One of the most recognised chronographs in the world, the newest and refined 38mm update on the Speedmaster has retained the iconic model’s famous structure and bold heritage. MOJEH’s favourite, nicknamed ‘Cappuccino’, is made from stainless steel and 18-karat Sedna gold, and features an attractive bi-colour dial and strap that’s been made from taupe-brown leather. Horizontal oval subdials and a vertical oval date window at 6 o’clock marry the famous Seahorse medallion, which is engraved into the caseback of each model in a respectful nod to the Speedmaster’s rich history. The OMEGA Calibre 3330, meanwhile, solidifies the piece’s reputation as one of quality and reliability.

In 1969, astronaut Buzz Aldrin stepped onto the lunar surface as part of Apollo 11 wearing his OMEGA Speedmaster wristwatch

LEADING ROLE Commanding storylines and captivating audiences for decades, glistening jewels have the ability to both transform a scene and steal the show.

Here, we outline high jewellery’s cinematic success stories.

I

ngrained like a snapshot in time, there’s a few movie scenes that we’re unable to forget.

Championed as cult classics, remember when Kate Winslet released her grasp upon The Heart of the Ocean, a deep-blue cubic zirconium with a white gold setting, letting it fall, in slow motion, into the sea during Titanic? Or the moment when Marilyn Monroe burst into song decked out in pink satin gloves and a matching gown, throngs of diamonds blazing around her neck? And then there’s that iconic scene where Elizabeth Taylor first appeared in her 24-karat gold cloth cape, effortlessly balancing her weighty headpiece, an imitation of the ancient Egyptian goddess Isis’s famed throne headdress, detailed with intricate metal work and beading. From tales of pirates seeking treasure and the notorious Pink Panther thieves to J.R.R Tolkien’s trilogy that attributed murder, mystery and misery to one ring, jewels have been fundamental to our storytelling and dramatisations for thousands of years, with precious stones and trinkets made central to plots and included in plays as far back as 100 B.C. Back to the big screen and some of our favourite cinematic highpoints and stories continue to revolve around jewels, high jewellery maisons, and the besotted women who lust after their wares. Indeed, cinema and jewellery have enjoyed a dynamic and mutually fruitful relationship spanning more than half a century. “Lavish jewels are shorthand for luxury, and they have a visual appeal that money itself doesn’t,” says Kimberly Chrisman-Campbell, journalist, author and fashion historian. “They also carry stories with them. A piece of jewellery may be said to have a past or a curse or a royal provenance that interacts with the characters and events on screen. It is a symbol

for financial stability, but in a more literal sense it has always been a form of portable wealth – it can be worn and enjoyed, but it can also be sold if necessary,” she continues. Take Harry Winston, for example, the jeweller was first propelled into global popularity when Marilyn Monroe declared her love for him in Gentlemen Prefer Blondes and more recently, in Legally Blonde leading lady, Elle Woods, wails in envy: “She’s got the 6-carat Harry Winston on her bony, unpolished finger.” The Winston dynasty must at least, in part, thank cinema for its now ubiquitous status as jeweller to the stars both on and off screen.

And jewellers like Cartier, Tiffany & Co., and De Beers have also received both kudos and notoriety from silver stars, with firm mentions in films like Miracle on 34th Street and Blood Diamond. And then, of course, there’s Tiffany & Co. who defined Audrey Hepburn’s Breakfast at Tiffany’s.

But what is it about these on-screen moments that makes them unforgettable? Maybe it’s the cinematography, the acting or perhaps the jawdropping sapphires, rubies and emeralds that lend spellbinding animation. When we think of compelling period pieces such as Marie Antoinette, Cleopatra, and Anna Karenina the costumes are striking, but it’s the jewels that are able to transport us back in time and have the ability to bring a historically accurate aesthetic to life. From Kiera Knightley’s enchanting aura that’s supported by her mesmerising Chanel diamonds to the revival of the original jade dial Piaget watch worn first by Jackie Kennedy and later in the film biopic by actress Natalie Portman, we chronicle jewellery’s cinematic strongpoints, lesser-known odysseys and pick out the unforgettable pieces that stole the show.

THE LEGACY

Images courtesy of Getty, Rex Features, and Piaget

Words by Laura Beaney

Henry B. Platt, great-grandson of the founder of Tiffany & Co., adjusts actress Audrey Hepburn’s necklace to signal the start of production for the film, Breakfast At Tiffany’s (1961)

During the promotional campaign for Gentlemen Prefer Blondes, Marilyn Monroe wore the 24.04-carat pear-shaped canary yellow Moon of Baroda, which was the largest diamond she wore in her lifetime

Gentlemen Prefer Blondes (1953) “Talk to me Harry Winston, tell me all about it.” These words, uttered by Marilyn Monroe in Gentlemen Prefer Blondes, are perhaps one of the most iconic references to a jewellery brand in cinematic history, carving a name for Harry Winston as the jeweller to the stars.

The diamond that Monroe wore during the filming for her song, Diamonds are a Girl’s Best Friend, is equally pivotal. The Moon of Baroda is a 24-carat pear-shaped yellow canary diamond that was formerly the property of the Maharajah of Baroda in India until the 18th Century, before it was acquired by the Empress Maria Theresa of Austria and, later, Marie Antoinette.

Breakfast at Tiffany’s (1961) In the opening scene, Audrey Hepburn steps out of her yellow cab, dressed in a Sixties-esque LBD by Hubert de Givenchy that’s accessorised with colossal costume pearls, glimmering earrings and a mini-tiara. Her character, Holly Golightly, gazes adoringly through sunglasses upon the Tiffany & Co. store. Later Golightly famously insists: “The only thing that does any good is to jump in a cab and go to Tiffany’s… Nothing very bad could happen to you there.”

And while Golightly’s obsession with Tiffany’s remains undisputed, the necklace she wore in this opening scene was, in fact, crafted by Roger Scemama, a French parurier who designed pieces for Givenchy.

Audrey Hepburn and George Peppard browse through jewellery at Tiffany & Co.’s department store

Pretty Woman (1990) It was recently revealed that the legendary scene in Pretty Woman where Richard Gere snaps a jewellery box on Julia Roberts’s fingers was originally staged as a practical joke intended for the film’s gag reel. Many critics say this is the point where we, as film viewers, fell in love with the actress. Her necklace was worth an estimated AED 920,000 at the time, and comprised of a captivating collection of 23 heart-cut rubies, interlaced by diamonds and custom-designed by Fred Paris, the French jeweller, renowned for selling sizeable diamonds and rare coloured stones such as the 275-carat Blue Moon sapphire and the famed yellow Soleil d’Or diamond of 105 carats.

Casino (1995) Never before, or since, has there been such a display of fine jewellery in one scene. In Casino, Robert Deniro’s character, Ace, bestows a banquet of heritage Bulgari pieces upon his femme fatale bride Ginger (Sharon Stone) serving as a reminder of the extravagant lifestyle enjoyed by the dying breed of ostentatious Vegas gangsters at that time. Scattered across their bed, several trays are filled with solid gold-ribbed chokers, emerald-encrusted bangles and gold hoop earrings punctuated with pearls. As Ginger eagerly basks in this excess she quips: “Do you think it would be too much to wear these all in the same day?”

Julia Roberts wore a necklace

by Fred Paris comprising of 23 heart-cut rubies worth around AED 920,000, for her role as Vivian Ward in Pretty Woman

Sharon Stone stars in Casino. While there are a few signs of 1970s Bulgari heritage jewellery true to the film’s period setting, the vast majority are actually pieces created during the 1990s

In 2001, the Satine necklace worn by Nicole Kidman in Moulin Rouge! was passed to auction, however, the necklace’s creator withdrew it at the last minute saying he couldn’t part with his masterpiece Below: Costume designer Jacqueline Durran looked to feminine pearl pieces that didn’t specifically fit the era of the 19th Century epic but offered a stylised aesthetic

Moulin Rouge! (2001) A tale of 19th-Century romance and decadence that played out in Paris, Baz Lurhmann‘s musical Moulin Rouge! captivated audiences thanks to its over-the-top costumes, with one item in particular commanding attentions. The intricate collar-piece, designed by Australian jeweller Stefano Canturi was worn by Nicole Kidman‘s character, Satine. Inspired by the Louis XVI aesthetic, the openwork lace patterns and scrolled diamond necklace offered to the beautiful courtesan became the symbol of giving up on true love.

The necklace took four months to make using 100-yearold artisanal techniques and a staggering 1,308 diamonds, as well as a 2.5-carat sapphire.

Anna Karenina (2012) Setting Anna apart from the ballroom crowds, costume designer Jacqueline Durran thanks Keira Knightley’s role as the face of Chanel’s Coco Mademoiselle perfume for the AED 7,400,000 worth of Chanel diamonds that she was able to work with while constructing the costumes for Joe Wright’s filmic portrayal of Leo Tolstoy’s Anna Karenina. “Never in my experience on film sets have I seen anyone with such a range of diamonds and pearls,” Durran said in an interview with WWD. “But I have to say it was very useful for Keira to have at her fingertips all this fine jewellery, as Anna would. It was the aura of Anna Karenina that we were creating.”

Carey Mulligan’s handpiece in The Great Gatsby was inspired by an illustration of a compact mounted on elastic strings from the 1920s, as well as Indian wedding jewellery Below: For her portayal of Jackie Kenedy in the 2016 movie, Natalie Portman wore the First Lady’s original Piaget watch

The Great Gatsby (2013) For The Great Gatsby, Tiffany & Co. looked to achieve new heights, outfitting the cast with a series of oneof-a-kind headpieces, bracelets, necklaces and strings of pearls that recalled 1920s designs and amounted to AED 7,400,000 in total. “The jewellery symbolises the story’s themes of wealth and privilege, and we approached its design with the utmost style and luxury in mind,” said Jon King, executive vice president of Tiffany & Co. Lending life to frivolous character, Daisy Buchanan, The Savoy headpiece, in particular, was a showstopper, enchanting viewers with Tiffany diamonds that formed a tassel and a spray of feathers that doubled-up as a brooch.

Jackie (2016) A style icon known for her fashion sensibilities and eye for accessories, Natalie Portman portrayed President John F. Kennedy’s wife in the biopic, Jackie. Characterising her timeless style, Portman wore Kennedy’s original 18-karat gold Piaget watch as well as other Piaget fine jewellery pieces, including diamond earrings and a diamond and pearl necklace. The watch has an oval-shaped dial made from natural green jade in a horizontal format, with a case surrounded by 1.20 carats of diamonds and four brilliantcut green tourmalines, and powered by a quartz Piaget movement. Piaget released a special limited edition re-release of the watch in three different combinations.

FIVE MINUTES WITH

RAHA MOHARRAK

Images courtesy of TAG Heuer

MOJEH talks to Raha Moharrak, the first Saudi female to conquer Mount Everest, about the importance of time and becoming TAG Heuer’s first female Arab ambassador

MOJEH INTERVIEW

How many watches do you currently own?

I have six. I have to tell you that they’ve all be gifted to me, or borrowed or stolen from my mother! The TAG Heuer ones are my new favourites because they symbolise where I am in life and where I am in terms of my achievements. But my all-time favourite watch is a really old one I borrowed from my mother as a child and never returned.

What do you look for in a timepiece?

Comfort, function and simplicity. I don’t want anything overpowering. I have an Aquaracer and a Link. I really love the fit of the Link – it doesn’t bother me at all when I’m climbing.

In a digital age, why do you think watches are so important?

They are a nod to the past and the perfect accessory for the understated person.

How does it feel to be the first female Arab ambassador for TAG? I’ve been a huge fan of the brand for quite a few years now, after landing at an airport and seeing one of the ‘Don’t Crack Under Pressure’ billboards. The message really resonated with me as I believe everyone is capable of great things, but only those that don’t fold achieve them. When they [TAG Heuer] approached me with the opportunity to collaborate with them I was overwhelmed and blown away by the honour.

It’s an absolute dream come true to be the first female Arab ambassador for them and to join such a distinguished family.

Why did the brand feel like the right fit for you?

I really admire the mix of ambassadors that TAG have. They come from all walks of life, but are extraordinary in their own right, so it felt fantastic to have the chance to be a part of that. I also think the designs are very refined but also suitable for a variety of activities.

Why do you think it’s important for brands to select regional men and women to represent them?

I think it’s crucial for brands to shift their interests to local talent. As beautiful and amazing as international models and ambassadors are, you miss the opportunity to inspire a regional generation when the ambassador is very far removed from our culture and traditions. When you have someone who is from here it sheds a light on a new type of role model; someone that people here can relate to and aspire to be. There are so many amazing and inspirational Arab sportswomen these days and forming partnerships with international brands gives them a platform to share their stories and for their voices to be heard.

Do you think there are enough sporting Arab female role models?

I don’t think there will ever be enough. I certainly won’t be happy until you can no longer count on two hands the number of female Arab athletes. We have so much more to give the next generation and it’s the best way to prove that

the impossible is possible. I always believed I could do all the things that I have achieved. I can assure you I’m not an extraordinary person, I’m just a little bit more stubborn than most. I want to give people a voice and a platform and more people like me must be out there.

Do you think attitudes and stereotypes about Arab women are changing for the better?

Based on the fact that TAG Heuer have named a Saudi woman as an ambassador for their brand is a huge step forward. People are so perceptive to being enlightened. When I travel and meet people overseas they are always so receptive to the fact that I’m from Saudi and I’m a climber.

What is your next climbing challenge?

I’ll always climb and hike but high altitude expeditions take such a big toll on you, so for now I’m taking some time out to finish my book and don’t have any climbs planned at the moment.

What does 2018 hold for you?

Now that I’ve ticked all the major climbing boxes, there are two things that I really dream to do. The first is finishing my book. It has been a labour of love for the last three years.

I’ve been writing what I call a love letter to my parents. It’s my memoir of being a Saudi woman and managing to climb all these mountains. I’m about 90 per cent done and am hoping to find the right publisher next year. The second thing is that I’ve always dreamed of going to outer space, so I believe that if I say it enough and put it out there the right opportunities will come my way.

PRETTY IN PINK

Introducing the world’s largest known and most exceptional fancy intense pink diamond, which weighs an impressive 37.30 carats.

FINAL NOTE

Photographed by Tristan Fewings at Getty for Sotheby’s

A

truly resplendent gemstone, according to Sotheby’s, the rough diamond that yielded the scintillating jewel that is ‘The Raj Pink’ was studied for more than a year after its well-publicised discovery in 2015. The stone, which boasts an almost mirror-like rose-blushed hue, was then entrusted to an experienced master cutter, who crafted the highly sought-after treasure into a cushion-modified brilliant cut.

Weighing an impressive 37.30 carats, ‘The Raj Pink’ was named by a previous owner who requested anonymity and is the world’s largest known fancy intense pink diamond with an estimated worth of AED 73.4 million – 110 million (USD 20 million – 30 million). David Bennett, worldwide chairman of Sotheby’s International Jewellery Division, said: “The discovery of any pink diamond is exceptional, but ‘The Raj Pink’s’ remarkable size and intensity of colour places it in the rarefied company of the most important pink diamonds known.” Diamonds such as the 24.78-carat ‘Graff Pink’, which sold for more than AED 169.3 million (USD 46.1 million) at Sotheby’s Geneva in 2010.

More than just a stunning stone, pink diamonds are a natural marvel that will be cherished for centuries to come. After all, the discovery of a gem-quality pink diamond of any size is an extremely rare occurrence, which is what makes ‘The Raj Pink’ even more special.

“The brilliance, hue and size of this precious gem are truly exceptional,” says the Gemological Institute of America (GIA). Of all the diamonds submitted to the GIA each year, fewer than 0.02 per cent are predominantly pink.

‘The Raj Pink’s’ name is, therefore, more than appropriate, given its intense colouring. Based on the Sanskrit word for ‘king’, it certainly solidifies its place as one of the most majestic gemstones ever discovered.

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