Mojeh Magazine Issue 14

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Chairman SHAHAB IZADPANAH

EDITORIAL

PUBLISHING

Editor in Chief MOJEH IZADPANAH

Publishing Director RADHIKA NATU

Associate Editor SHERI IZADPANAH

Publishing Assistant DESIREE LABANDA-GAVERIA

Assistant Editor KELLY BALDWIN

Subscription Assistant gracelyn gabriel

Guest Fashion Editors Anatolli Smith Guillaume Boulez Lester Garcia

Paris Representative GHISLAIN DE CASTELBAJAC Clémence Leray Advertisement Manager tala amhaz

Editorial Assistants Emma Bailey Harry McKinley Zoey coombe

Advertising Inquiries Tel: +971 4 454 20 50, +971 4 425 79 79 Email: advertising@mojeh.com

Editorial Contributors Giverney Megan Edwards Jareh das Jeremy Morris

Subscription Tel: +971 4 454 20 50 Email: subs@mojeh.com

Letters to the Editor Email: editor@mojeh.com

LOUIS FOURTEEN FOR MOJEH

ART

Digital Director AMIR AHMADI KHALILI

Producer LOUIS AGENCY

Digital Analyst Behnam Orang

Art Director AMIRREZA AMIRASLANI

Concierge Service Management ASSMA AHMED

Senior Designer MEHDI GHAREH MOHAMMADI

Head of Lifestyle OLGA KOVALCHUK

Graphic Designer Borna ahadi

Marketing Manager Aleksandra Kaloumenou

Digital Strategy LOUIS AGENCY

Corporate Manager JUBRAN HAMATI

Contributing Photographers Federico De Angelis Mitchell and Wulff Riccardo Vimercati Romain Bernardie-James Sebastien Jardini

Customer Representative Abdeljelil chaouch Published under HS Media Group FZ LLC Registered at Dubai Media City Building 10, Office 345 P.O.Box 502333, Dubai, UAE

Cover shot by: Federico De Angelis | Model: Zoi at Oui Management | Zoi wears Camelia Origami earrings and Camelia Origami bracelet, CHANEL HIGH JEWELLERY and clothes from Metiers d’Arts, Paris Edimbourg, CHANEL | Hair stylist: Christian Attuly at B Agency | Make-up artist: Jabe at B Agency | Photographer’s assistant: Ignazio Nano | Production: Louis Agency.

WWW.MOJEH.COM Louis Fourteen for MOJEH Follow us on Twitter @MOJEH_Magazine, www.shopmojeh.com, info@shopmojeh.com MOJEH Executive Office: Burj Khalifa, Floor 129, P.O. Box 888777, Dubai, UAE MOJEH Swiss Representative Office: Rue de Rive 4, 1204 Geneva, Switzerland Average qualified circulation as issued by BPA Worldwide (July – December 2012): 13,116 copies. For the UAE printed by Emirates Printing Press LLC. Distribution- UAE: Jashanmal National Company LLC. Qatar: Dar Al Sharq. Bahrain: Jashanmal & Sons BSC (C). Oman: United Media Services LLC The publishers regret that they cannot accept liability for error or omissions contained in this publication, however caused. The opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessary those of the publishers. Readers are advised to seek specialist advice before acting on information contained in this publication which is provided for general use and may not be appropriate for the readers particular circumstances. The ownership of trademark is acknowledged, therefore reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. All credits are subjects to change. Copyright HS MEDIA GROUP FZ LLC 2011

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Mojeh

Contents

Society

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MOJEH Snapshots

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Visit Paris for true romantic moments, feel the power of a smile and discover the ideal gift for Father’s Day.

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My Stylish Life

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Meet the duo behind the innovative concept Dinner Club by No.57 and find out why their party plans are causing quite a stir in the region.

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With this Rose I Give to you a Promise

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Jeremy Morris reveals why designing his wife’s engagement ring played such a significant role in the jewellery industry and his life overall.

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Celebrated Woman in Society We talk to artist Manal Al Dowayan about her influential works.



Mojeh

Contents

Fashion

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You are Cordially Invited From the sun-drenched Mediterranean to the snowy peaks of Gstaad, MOJEH marries both beauty and fashion trends to ensure you’re covered for any location.

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92 The One

We follow the endearing Lindsey Wixson backstage at the Chanel Haute Couture show to convey a story behind the fairy tale collection.

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In Love with Lhuillier

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Monique Lhuillier shares her design secrets and talks about creating timeless, stunning and feminine gowns, perfect for any bride-to-be.

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The Power of Three

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The Golkar brothers discuss their label Emperor 1688, sharing their visions and inspirations behind contemporary menswear in the Middle East.



Mojeh

Contents

accessories

142 Most Desired

Delve into a selection of the most desirable accessories catching our eye this summer.

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Beneath the Face of Time

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MOJEH speaks to the President of Dior Timepieces, Laurence Nicolas, about the importance of haute couture in imaginative watch designs.

148 Set in Stone

Find out who’s on our icon radar for their styling skills this month.

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The Perfect Proposal Tiffany & Co explain why their engagement rings are celebrated as a symbol of eternal love the world over.



Mojeh

Contents

Beauty

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the Darling Buds of May

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Match your make-up to your bouquet with a range of beauty looks perfect for the wedding season.

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Always a Bridesmaid

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Tips to see you through someone else’s big day.

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Bespoke Beginnings

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Create a special bespoke perfume with Guerlain and their exclusive fragrance service offering tailor made scents.

194 Under the Veil

MOJEH provides the top ten tips to perfect skin with the help of celebrity facialist, Rani Mirza.



Mojeh

Contents

culture

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The Art of Collaboration

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Louis Vuitton’s next star artist eL Seed takes the limelight.

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Weddings and Couture: A Match Made In Heaven The industry that is, quite simply, built on love.

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The Bigger Picture

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We speak to the super model and rock-star wife of David Bowie and find out why Iman is a woman and mother on a mission.

212 Read It And Weep

Have a good cry with our selection of romance novels, guaranteed to jerk a tear or two.


DUBAI MALL, DUBAI

CENTRIA MALL, RIYADH

OSCARDELARENTA.COM


Editor’s

Letter

What Works for You T

Mojeh Izadpanah Editor in Chief

Follow me on Twitter @Mojeh_I

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Love’s Understatement, Photographed by Sebastien Jardini

Make-up by Yasaman Shoaei. Hair by Luca Comella at Y-12 Salon, Dubai.

Mojeh Izadpanah, Photographed by Borna Ahadi

his issue is an ode to every woman out there. Whether you’re the singleton still weighing up your options, a bride-to-be or happily married, the wedding season won’t pass you by, but will instead bend to suit your sensibilities. It is what you make of it, for you, of course, are the one who calls the shots. For the woman who loves tenderly, the one who loves blindly and even she who loves fiercely – cue our cover look – there’s something to help guide everyone through this endlessly romantic season in terms of all things fashion, beauty and accessories. Will it be a fun and flirtatious affair under the glare of the Mediterranean sun, an icy and cool event atop the mountains of Gstaad or an unapologetically lavish soirée at a palace inside our Arabian desert? Throughout the pages you’ll find a multitude of options for both the modern bride and the modern woman; whether hosting your own wedding or simply attending those of friends and loved ones. In style choice, don’t be afraid to either break tradition, or follow it to the tee. Our spread of fashion shoots visit both the virtuous girl who still wears white and lives by everything it envisions in Love’s Understatement, and the extremities of the other woman who takes every measure imaginable to keep her love as hers, and hers only. Should you dare, The Depths of Desire is fashion and romance’s interpretation of a dark comedy, not for the faint hearted. Don’t sink too deep, but do be determined in your choices nonetheless. Look to our cover model; she’s tough, she’s tenacious, she’s soft to the touch and she’s nothing but timely in her fashion choices. In turning tradition on its head, we’ve played with Chanel’s metiers d’art collection and removed a little (or a lot) of fabric, added some killer rocks and presented you with a woman who will walk the aisle on her own terms. Of course, weddings don’t define our season, they merely offer a much wanted opportunity to dress up and stand close to those who we love. But there’s also plenty more to attract our attention this May. With the much-anticipated release of Baz Luhrmann’s Great Gatsby, Tiffany and Co have designed a standout high jewellery collection to run alongside. Follow the glitz and the glam in our 1940s inspired accessory story, The Diamond Days. And for those who are already looking to their summer breaks and weekend escapes we have plenty to set the wheels in motion. From the perfect Parisian penthouse suite at Le Royal Monceau hotel, to that ever irksome swimsuit choice, and then on to the exhibitions that you simply can’t afford to miss, from Chicago to Madrid and then off to Venice, we couldn’t leave the city of love out could we? Whether you’re a hopeless romantic or you err a little more on the side of caution, take from this fairytale season only the love story that you want as your own.



Snapshots

Editor’s

A Cool Clash

CH Carolina Herrera

Confidently clash bold colours with tangible textures for both day and eveningwear. Be adventurous and match your fierce animal prints with your soft ruffles, or nurture your femininity with a bold raspberry applique coat hung languorously over a floor-sweeping gown.

Mawi at Saks Dubai

Louis Vuitton

Michael by Michael Kors

Alberta Ferreti

CHANEL, Le Crayon a Levres in Rubellite and Rouge Allure Velvet in L’Eclatante

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Aquazzura


Snapshots

Dior

Van Cleef & Arpels

Editor’s

Rolex

Tabbah Fendi

Emilio Pucci

Giambattista Valli @matches.com

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snapshot

Mojeh

A Fashionable Romance www.leroyalmonceau.com

As you wander along cobbled boulevards and admire the lavish monuments, you discover what truly makes Paris the city of love and lights. Lovers incessantly escape to the idyllic destination to indulge in heart melting moments in a city that has been built, for the most part, on its romantic tendencies. Walk hand in hand along the meandering River Seine and visit the great Louvre, or in summer stroll through famous gardens as the vibrant flowers and perfected greenery of the impressive Tuileries flourish. Then where better to find your sanctuary than in Le Royal Monceau hotel whose stunning interior, designed by Philippe Starck, captures its former 1930s spirit in a celebration of the ‘art of living’? With its distinct ambience, this luxury hotel is the ideal meeting place for a new generation of couples in search of their home from home. Devoted to art, all 149 rooms and suites include unique features whilst Michelin star restaurants La Cuisine and Il Carpaccio are ideal for food lovers seeking quality French produce and modern cuisine. For a real lesson in luxury however, head toward the Presidential suites, each inspired by the 1940s and 50s, intended for art devotees and featuring their own private entrances. A hub for art, fashion, architecture and of course romance, Paris and Le Royal Monceau make for the perfect setting whether planning your wedding, honeymoon or simply a weekend escape.

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VERSACE.COM

THE DUBAI MALL | VERSACE JEWELLERY BOUTIQUE |+97144341570


snapshot

Mojeh

The Power of a Smile Many people don’t trust in the idea of just how powerful our facial expressions can be. When we smile, we automatically send a rush of happy messages to our brain that not only improve your own mood but also, for the most part, livens up those around you. Each year June 15th officially marks The Power of a Smile Day, a delightful excuse to purchase a new gloss and practice your grin ready for the remainder of the year. It’s a proven fact that no matter how blue you may be feeling - due to the psychological functions of the human brain – as soon as you break a smile endorphins travel down your spine and circulate around your entire body, reducing symptoms of physical or emotional strain. Whether coated in a sugar soft pink gloss, masked in a natural hue or obscured by a deep coat of thick lipstick – all fitting runway choices for the summer ahead – a smile is a natural and healthy remedy for any of those ‘feeling blue’ days. Go backstage with MOJEH and be inspired by the beauty looks dominating all four-fashion capitals for SS13; will you be taking inspiration from the Andy Warhol era and making a statement with bright, colourful lips like Missoni and Moschino? Maybe you’ll be swayed by Prada’s infusion of the orient and covet a poppy-red shade. Whatever the colour you choose to adopt wear your smile with pride, you’re in the right place for discovering beauty that’s bang on trend.

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CLARINS, Rouge eclat in Nude Rose


Lexus concept car LF-LC


HIGHLIGHTS

Mojeh

MOJEH Interview with Kiyotaka Ise Lexus International President Kiyotaka Ise, Lexus International President

Would you please tell us about the new strategy for Lexus? The new strategy is based on the product itself and the new brand image where we are positioning Lexus as a dynamic brand, which offers something new and exciting for our customers. What are your plans / ideas to improve driving performance? We have always maintained our focus on improving the handling and stability of our vehicles, and as a result our customers get to experience the sheer joy of driving with Lexus. One of the most significant aspects of Lexus is our hybrid range, which is unique to Lexus compared to other brands (most of the model lineup of Lexus has hybrids). Our hybrid system not only offers fuel efficiency but it also generates more power. In other words, both the engine and electrical motor give the driver extraordinary driving pleasure. Which point do you believe will be a major factor to attract a younger generation of Lexus buyers? From my perspective, there are four factors which will attract a younger generation of buyers to our models. These include: • More aggressive & emotional exterior / interior design • Driving pleasure with high level of joy • Provide comparable affordable models like CT200h • Offering sport models like the coupe What are the points you would improve in the product line up to make it more attractive ? We hope to serve our young customers with more sports model line ups which are more engaging.

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HIGHLIGHTS

Mojeh Amazing Flow- builds on the space design of Akihisa Hirata

LEXUS DESIGN AWARD

T

he objective behind the LEXUS DESIGN AWARD, an international design competition, was to create an opportunity for innovators to work with a world-famous designer as a mentor to create prototypes of their designs. Through this initiative, Lexus hopes to contribute to nurturing and supporting creators. The theme of the LEXUS DESIGN AWARD was motion - a word and concept directly connected to people’s everyday lives. Under this theme, Lexus welcomed innovators and called for works that display a deep understanding of Lexus design, uniquely interpret concepts and provide original perspectives and solutions to various issues of daily life. From October to December 2012, Lexus conducted the LEXUS DESIGN AWARD targeting innovators around the world. During this period, 1243 submissions were received. After careful consideration, Lexus selected 12 winners from entries received with two winning entries from the Middle East- one from Jordan (Abeer Seikaly for his entry titled ‘Weaving a Home’ where a structural fabric weaves tent shelters into homes) and one from Iran (Mani Zamani for his entry titled ‘Calm Kayak’-A boat specifically built for the calm reflection of thought).

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HIGHLIGHTS

Mojeh

Lexus Global Campaign ‘Amazing in Motion’ Lexus featured in the campaign spectacular larger-than-life human figures (puppets). Lexus materials, including bamboo and walnut found in the interiors of Lexus cars, as well as Lexus exterior paint, were used to construct the puppets.

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HIGHLIGHTS

Mojeh

The ‘DESIGN MATTERS’ Event in New York City Lexus launched a global advertising campaign with the theme ‘Amazing in Motion.’

Lexus collaborated with The Weinstein Company to support emerging directors from around the globe, commissioning them to bring five wonderful stories to life as short films.

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A DANIEL KLEINMAN FILM

AMAZING IN MOTION C R E A T E D

B Y

L E X U S

DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY FRANZ LUSTIG EDITOR STEVE GANDOLFI PRODUCTION COMPANY RATTLING STICK PRODCUER JOHNNIE FRANKEL A LEXUS INTERNATIONAL AND CHI & PARTNERS PRODUCTION IN MADRID EXECUTIVE CREATIVE DIRECTOR JON BURLEY CREATIVE DIRECTORS MICKY TUDOR AND MONTY VERDI AGENCY PRODUCER ROSIE EVATT 42

AMAZING IN MOTION.COM


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Mojeh Date Self Winding Watch,VACHERON CONSTANTIN

AN Honourable

IN

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n Watch

, VACHERO NC ON ST AN T

Heirloom When we think of our fathers, we recall eternal bonds, unconditional love and those significant few who have greatly influenced our path in life. Whether we showcase our love in words, actions, through the material things in life or all three, Father’s Day is the perfect opportunity to celebrate those defining figures. Family trees document the past and present line of our relatives, and Vacheron Constantin recognises the importance of keeping these ties alive through intimate gifting on this special day. Patrimony, meaning inheritance from father, is a fitting title for this statement collection from the Swiss watchmaker as the art of design, an honour for both quality and craftsmanship and a respect for tradition are stylishly pulled together in two models: traditional and contemporary. Within both divisions lie a few select choices for any man interested in either the classics or the novel. Take for example the Patrimony Traditionnelle 14-day Tourbillon, featuring a two-week time reserve – the longest of any watch of its kind – and 231 parts including 31 jewels held within an 18 carat pink gold case. A collector’s item for those in the know. The Patrimony Contemporaine Date Self Winding model on the other hand exemplifies the 21st century man. Automatically run with a 40hour time reserve, yellow gold and sapphire glass casing and of course, waterproof – perfect for those father and son days spent exploring the high-seas. As a brand that understands true heritage, the Patrimony collection symbolises authenticity and tradition with a contemporary edge; good for a man who appreciates that simple aesthetics in fact count for much more both in terms of design and sentiment. Show your appreciation to great grandparents and fathers alike with a family heirloom that will filter down to even the most fashionable generations to come.

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1


Insider

Style

My Stylish Life

Buthaina Al Mazrui and Alamira Noor Bani Hashim, creators of The Dinner Club by No.57

Buthaina and Noor at Buthaina’s home in Abu Dhabi.

A coupling born from school, the ladies behind this new and innovative dining concept in the UAE have been causing quite a stir with their clandestine parties. Both Emirati born, but having attended university abroad, the two originally set out to create a boutique cafe in their home Abu Dhabi. Taking longer than anticipated the pair decided to embark on a dinner party plan; that of secret and unusual gatherings attended by specially picked guests, all of whom are unaware of the details of their invitation until the big unveiling. With previous events being held on construction sites and old buses, this is the first venture of its kind in the region and it’s making a mark.

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Insider

Style 1

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Buthaina Motto to live by: Live like no one cares | Best childhood memory: Friday nights in Al Ain huddled around my grandma whilst she poured us fresh milk | Most loved fairytale character: Ariel from The Little Mermaid | One thing that money can’t buy: Great friendship | Dream job: Travelling the world like Anthony Bourdain and experiencing food from different cultures | Best way to relax: Sitting in my garden with the sound of the fountain | Best discovery: Peanut butter pretzels | Favourite meal: A brioche burger with truffle fries | Favourite restaurant: Schweiger in Munich – a tiny restaurant with the freshest ingredients | Favourite place in the world: London – it’s my home away from home | Favourite artistic expression: Music | Signature scent: Molecule 01 | Go-to beauty brand: Nars | My style: A mix of prints and lots of layering | Ultimate accessory: A croc Hermes Constance in either burgundy or emerald green | Heels or flats: Flats – blessed with height | Best fashion moment: Being dressed by Razan Al Azzouni for one of our dinners

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Noor From top to bottom, left to right images courtesy of: Pascal Le Segretain/Staff, Matthew Lloyd/Stringer. All Getty.

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One piece of advice I would give to anyone: Be shameless and fearless | Hidden talent: Naming any font | Lifelong ambition: To spend an entire summer in the south of France on a vintage bicycle | One thing I can’t live without: My family | Biggest vice: French fries | Most treasured belonging: A gold Arabic nameplate necklace that my grandfather gifted me | Most desired belonging: A vintage convertible Mercedes SL | Person I look up to: My mother | What I collect: Sunglasses | Favourite book: Moby-Dick | Favourite movie: Hors de Prix with Audrey Tatou | Best home comfort: My bed | Favourite place in the world: The beach | Beauty must haves: MAC Concealer and Guerlain Terracotta Bronzer | Manicure style: Short and round. Usually in super dark colours | Favourite hairstyle: Simple and relaxed | Bad hair day product: Moroccan Oil Hairspray | Style Icon: Olivia Palermo | Best purchase: My Mercedes G500. I spend more time in my car than anywhere else | Wardrobe staples: A black leather jacket, a soft white shirt from The Kooples and a white summer dress | Most treasured wardrobe item: My grandmother’s fox fur stole | Favourite pair of shoes: YSL Mohawk Pumps | Favourite store: S*uce

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1. Audrey Tatou | 2. Brioche burger | 3. Moby Dick by Herman Melville | 4. HERMES, Constance bag | 5. S*uce | 6. London | 7. GUERLAIN, Terracotta Bronzing Powder | 8. ESCENTRIC MOLECULES, Molecule 01

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Insider

Style

My Stylish Life

Salem Al-Qassimi, graphic designer and founder of Fikra Design Studio

Salem in the Fikra Design studio in Sharjah.

Splitting his time between New York City and his home emirate of Sharjah, Salem Al-Qassimi became interested in the design world from an early age. Having received his bachelor’s degree in multimedia design from the American University of Sharjah, where he now teaches, he launched Fikra Designs in 2006, an experimental studio that specialises in bilingual ideas. Today sees him working across varied mediums and collaborating with worldwide designers whilst continuously contributing to the rising creative industry in the UAE.

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Insider

Style 1

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From top to bottom, left to right images courtesy of: Matt Mawson/Corbis

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Motto to live by: Make it work | One piece of advice I would give to anyone: Do what you love to do | Hidden talent: I can do a single tongue loop, double, and triple | Lifelong ambition: To contribute significantly to the design and cultural scene in the Arab world and create cultural bridges to different parts of the world | Best childhood memory: Watching ants marching whilst I listened to the call for prayer | One thing I can’t live without: Adobe InDesign | Most loved fairytale character: The Cheshire Cat from Alice in Wonderland | Person I’d like to be: An Arabic version of Milton Glaser, but younger | One thing that money can’t buy: My playlists | Most treasured belonging: My fonts | Heaven is to me: Good food | Most desired belonging: 3D printer | Early bird or night owl: Night owl | Dream job: Mine. Being a graphic designer, a teacher, and an entrepreneur all in my own time | How do I relax: I drive in the middle of the night, no music, windows down and listening to the wind | What do I collect: Anything Apple

Favourite book: Delivering Happiness by Tony Hsieh | Favourite movie: There Will Be Blood | Favourite meal: Anything with dates | Best home comfort: My bed | Website I can’t live without: clientsfromhell. net | Favourite restaurant: La Esquina, New York | Favourite place in the world: My house in Sharjah | Favourite city: New York | Favourite artistic expression: Arabic typography

Grooming must-have: An electric razor | Signature scent: Tom Ford, Tobacco Vanille | Top moisturiser: Clinique M Lotion | Bad hair day product: Label.M Matt Paste | Describe your style: Scruffy | Best purchase: Clinique Scruffing Lotion | Favourite designers: Michael Bastian, Jil Sander, Banana Republic, Scotch & Soda, Canali, Tods, Tom Ford, Dior Homme and Thamanyah | Wardrobe staples: Khaki pants, Diesel jeans, a lot of coats, coloured shirts, a grey suit and a blue blazer | Ultimate accessory: A Rolex | Favourite pair of shoes: Tod’s | Best fashion moment: When I get my hairstyle just right | Favourite store: Barney’s New York

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1. JIL SANDER, SS13 | 2. THAMANYAH | 3. ROLEX, Yacht Master Rolesium | 4. TOM FORD, Tobacco Vanille | 5. New York City | 6. Dylan design by Milton Glaser | 7. There Will Be Blood | 8. TODS

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Memoir

Mojeh

Jeremy and Erin Morris

With This Rose I Give to You a Promise Leader in luxury Jeremy Morris writes about his infatuation with rare gemstones, and why the poignant love story behind his wife’s engagement ring reflects the importance of distinctive designs for all women.

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I

t was in 1962 when my father launched his jewellery business, David Morris. His impressive designs quickly attracted an elite clientele including film stars, royalty and couples in love. Continuing in the family tradition, I took over as the company’s managing director and principle designer several years ago and my wife Erin later joined me as a creative. My career has offered many defining moments, but none more so for myself, the brand and my family than the creation of my wife’s engagement ring that later led to our most famous cut today – the Rose Cut Diamond. I feel very fortunate to be in a position to run a solidly established family business, although of course, there is always the self-imposed pressure of wanting to maintain the high standards set by my father, as well as take it to the next level. This is not such a bad thing, especially when you have the opportunity to be creative and discover perfection. Today we’re celebrated for our rose-cut pieces - standing out amongst the collections of rare gems and white diamonds - something I wouldn’t have visited had it not been for Erin. It all started when I designed a one-off piece for Erin’s wedding band, made up of rose-cut diamonds and surrounded by hand set micro-sized diamonds. I remember the day we first met as if it were yesterday. It was 2004 and I was at the Palm Beach Art and Antique Fair and she was there representing another brand specialising in antique pieces. In my mind I can still


Memoir

Mojeh

hear her talking about the exquisite craftsmanship of her rare gemstones and their intriguing provenances. It was with such a passion - the same passion in fact that I have for my own pieces - that her voice and tone truly struck a chord with me. What makes David Morris jewellery so distinctive is the combination of inspiration and efforts in sourcing the best and most precious gemstones, a long journey that can only be travelled by someone with passion for the cause, someone like Erin. Which is why when it came to designing her wedding band, it had to reflect just that. I knew that I wanted to give Erin something truly unique and special; something that she’d know I had designed especially for her and that no one else could have. It took me months to decide on a design that represents my vision of Erin and then I remembered the rose-cut diamonds that were popular in the Victorian era - so-called because the facets resemble a tightly packed rose bud just before it has opened, an idea originally devised in India in the early 16th century. It is much loved for its vintage feel, as well as the beguilingly soft and subtle glimmer it conveys. The beauty is in its many facets, giving it an almost translucent, delicate and romantic feel. I was sure they would be perfect for Erin’s wedding band as I could combine her love of antique and old-cut stones with my love of unique and contemporary designs in one band.

DAVID MORRIS, Rose Cut Diamond Earrings

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Memoir

Mojeh

‘I rely on my gemmologist wife as both my muse and creative spring-board and her touch can be seen in many of the collections.’

Little did I know how much people would be moved by the design and so it marked the beginning of the David Morris Rose Cut Collection. This had not been in the original plan, but it felt right that together we could conceive a collection with the ring that meant so much to us both at the centre. It’s now expanded to include other designs such as earrings and bracelets and in rose gold and yellow gold versions with pink diamonds. Erin knows however that she still has the original rose-cut design. ‘In my eyes, the rose cut collection is so popular and successful because of the poignant story behind it. Our clients are seeking special, distinctive creations. Whether it’s the lustre of a natural pearl, the provenance of a rare stone or the story behind a simple eternity band, these unique attributes all emphasise the exclusivity of our collections,’ says my wife. ‘The conch pearl ring that Jeremy and I designed together is a lovely example. On one of our

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first holidays together, in the Caribbean, we were walking along the beach and started chatting to a group of fishermen who had been diving for conches and their pearls. A small but vivid pink specimen caught my eye. We bought it and later made it into a gorgeous natural conch pearl and diamond bead tassel pendant. That was the start of our love affair with conch pearls.’ ‘I’ll always remember that walk on the beach and that first pearl, I believe our own passion and excitement for these incredible treasures comes across in our creations. Most of the pieces that I co-design with Jeremy have some sort of story, a memory or an emotion that I hope is translated in the design especially when using rose cut diamonds. When I design these pieces I remember the happiness and warmth that I felt when Jeremy gifted me my wedding band and I can imagine that the woman who receives her own rose cut piece feels just the same. It makes the whole process that bit more special,’ she says. Just as my father enjoyed the support of my mother Suzette in establishing the brand, I rely on my gemmologist wife as both my muse and creative spring-board and her touch can be seen in many of the collections. I have such a love for sourcing exquisite gems that I’ll often end up with pieces without having had a design in mind first. This is where Erin has stepped in time and time again, either by imagining a design herself or simply inspiring one of mine. ‘I think my infatuation with unusual and rare gemstones has been evident in our collections since I became involved almost 10 years ago,’ she adds. Our jewellery house is special in many ways, from the gorgeous designs, exquisite stones to the actual foundations built on special and unique relationships.


MOJEH.COM DAILY AT YOUR FINGERTIPS


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Belles

Society


Belles

Society

Celebrated Woman in Society

Manal Al Dowayan M

anal Al Dowayan has led the contemporary art movement in her home country of Saudi Arabia for over a decade. She is represented by Cuadro Fine Art Gallery in Dubai, still stands as one of the original members of Edge of Arabia artists, and has participated in numerous international exhibitions and residencies from London’s Delfina Foundation in 2009 and the British Council’s Common Ground project in 2006 to the Venice Biennale in both 2009 and 2011. Her work is celebrated for its delicate yet powerful insights into women’s rights issues and as a result has won her an international call for artists in 2003 for the Imagining Ourselves Anthology. Later, in 2005, her photograph Pointing to the Future was exhibited at the United Nations Commission on the Status of Women. Aside from these numerous recognitions offered by the art world, Manal and her various projects have made substantial and compelling steps in addressing the lifestyle of women from her home country. Here, we talk to the artist about her path to becoming who she is today, women’s liberation and conceiving contemporary art works with a significant message in mind.

Manal in front of her works Drive By Shooting 3.

You were born and raised in the eastern province of Saudi Arabia, what was your upbringing like and how did it influence what you do today? I actually had a lot of freedom growing up, which wasn’t very typical in such a conservative country. However it felt very normal and I became used to navigating myself back and forth between different walls and streets of freedom. Learning to travel in and out of startling different environments has played a lot into my lifestyle and work. I’ve always struggled with the idea of whether I belong to the landscape in which I live in, or does it belong to me? In Drive by Shooting from my ‘And we had no shared dreams’ project, I play with this idea by photographing the blurred views of landscapes in Saudi Arabia from a moving car, then adding a layer using a spray painting technique. How did you move into the art world? When I was in London studying for my masters I began practicing art in the evenings at Central St. Martins. Towards the end I got picked up by a gallery in Spain and put a concept together for a small exhibition. Afterwards however I moved back to Saudi Arabia and worked in oil for 10 years. There was a 1930s dark room in my compound that I was able to use almost to myself for printing. Then in 2006 I took part in the British Council’s Common Ground Project and shortly after the Edge of Arabia came to me. At the time I was the only contemporary artist in the group and they supported and offered a platform. The reaction was violent, but in a positive way. Many of your projects look at women’s rights, where did this derive from? I’ve always been interested in the place of a woman. My father was very supportive of me growing up and he believed a woman should earn her own financial independence, my parents allowed me to do what I wanted to do and they encouraged us to create strong dialogues with one another, we had a lot of debates. I was never really political, or an activist, but I new how to express myself in a delicate way – this is why my work has different layers and elements to it, so that there’s the underlying subtleties. The ‘I Am’ collection for example was inspired by King Abdulla Al Saud’s speech when he took the throne in Saudi. It was a very positive time for the liberation of women, but some of the press suggested that women would only sit in positions that ‘suit their nature’. It got me thinking what does actually suit my nature and who

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decides it? I looked around me and I was surrounded by so many brilliant women that I then invited them – from various professions: engineers, mothers, doctors and so on – to pose for me as a statement of their existence. I also dressed them in traditional jewellery because it’s beautiful but in the wrong place it doesn’t fit, in the same way that the traditional treatment of women no longer fits. ‘Esmi – My Name’ was ‘developed to highlight the unique social attitudes towards women’s names in Saudi society where men find it offensive to mention the names of the women in their lives, and women also hide their identity so as not to offend.’ You invited women across the country to come and write their names on beads, encouraging them to no longer hide their identities. What did you expect the reaction to be? I announced the project on social media and I really had no idea what the reaction would be, I never have an idea in fact. But over 400 women arrived to take part and I didn’t have enough beads for everyone, so some just sat on chairs at the back purely so they could be in the room and feel the atmosphere. After each sitting I’d give a speech and then it would be time to go home, but no one wanted to go home. The reaction was incredible, these women all gathered together because they believed in the message. As an artist you try to offer a platform for expression.What impact do you think art has today? Artists push, explore and create dialogues. It can instigate change and document current times and issues. For example women in my country need a permission document issued by their appointed guardian to travel. In ‘Suspended Together’ I asked women to share their documents and then I placed them on doves attached to the ceiling. The flock of birds appeared to be in flight but in reality they were just suspended. These women could have got into trouble, but they did it anyway and hence the installation documented the fact that they’re ready to move forward and see change. As both a female and as an artist, what other women are you inspired by? The artist Shirin Neshat, I appreciate what she does and our work shares similarities. I’m also very influenced by novelists who write about females with a poetic, subliminal twist. Through different mediums women can really have a strong voice, create dialects and express themselves. Doves carrying travel permission documents from Suspended Together.

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Pearly Whites Look to the cleanest of colours to transform your wardrobe into a white wonderland for the wedding season ahead. Agent Provocateur’s lace kimono offers a playful elegance, whilst subtle hints of gold and pearl in the form of Chanel’s bracelet add some lustre.

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The Perfect Planner Maintain an immaculate sense of style with looks that promise to be both functional and fashionable. Giambattista Valli’s A-line, bow-belted dress is ideal for a luncheon set to discuss wedding plans and make sure you never run late with this Van Cleef & Arpels Muguet watch.

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1. Roland Mouret | 2. Damiani | 3. Lanvin @net-a-porter.com | 4. Van Cleef & Arpels | 5. Kenzo @matchesfashion.com | 6. Giambattista Valli @matchesfashion.com |

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A Splash of Sun Whether an afternoon respire before the big day, a weekend break with your best girl friends or honeymooning in the Bahamas, reflect the warmth of the sun in fiery hues set to dazzle. Melissa Odabash is the go-to bikini brand whilst Bulgari, Dior and Tory Burch offer multiple options for accessorising by the pool.

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Through the Glare Photographed by Romain Bernardie-James Styled by Guillaume Boulez

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Bikini, ERES | Ring, bracelet and necklace CARTIER

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Swimsuit, THREE AS FOUR | Necklace, earrings and bracelet, CHANEL HIGH JEWELLERY

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Swimsuit, ERES | Jacket, WANDA NYLON | Earrings and bracelet, BOUCHERON

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Swimsuit, ERES | Bustier, DOLCE & GABBANA | I Earrings and rings, DIOR FINE JEWELLERY

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Bikini, ERES | Cap, MAISON MICHEL | Necklace, earrings and ring, CHANEL HIGH JEWELLERY

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Bikini, VERSACE | Necklace and earrings, CHOPARD

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Bikini, ERES | Trench coat, WANDA NYLON | Necklace, earrings and rings, DIOR FINE JEWELLERY

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Swimsuit, ERES | Bracelet and earrings, BOUCHERON

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Model: Dominika Kucharova at Elite Models | Hair Stylist: Christian Attuly at B Agency | Make-up Artist: Celine Exbrayat at WSM | Photographer’s assistant: Antoine Truffaut | Production: Louis Agency

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You Are Cordially Invited MOJEH explores the most stylish wedding destinations from the icy glaciers of Gstaad to the sun-drenched waters of the Mediterranean, bringing you the best of couture and ready-to-wear choices. Of course no wedding get-up is complete without the perfect hair and make-up to match, so filter through our pages for the style to suit your setting.

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Downton Abbey A lavish wedding at the country estate calls for femininity personified; choose from an abundance of floral designs and sugar soft palettes ideal for the verdant landscape. Float around the venue in Georges Hobeika with extravagant beading and sequin embellishments laden in every design. Embrace make-up in the softest pastel shades such as a pink blush and rose gloss for a flawless ballerina-beauty visage.

1. PORTS 1961 | 2. LUISA BECCARIA | 3. DIOR | 4. GEORGES HOBEIKA | 5. ALEXIS MABILLE | 6. ELIE SAAB | 7. ERIN FETHERSTON | 8. BASHARATYAN V

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The Hamptons A tranquil shoreline setting calls for fresh-faced beauties wearing minimal make-up in sunkissed tones teamed with peachy lips hydrated by the outside air. The gentle sea breeze will tease your tousled hair as you overlook the ceremony wearing nautical blues in whimsical designs, such as these Alberta Ferretti and Erdem dresses.

1. TESS GIBERSON | 2. ANTONIO BERARDI | 3. ERDEM | 4. ANNE VALERIE HASH | 5. ALBERTA FERRETTI | 6. BURBERRY PRORSUM | 7. LACOSTE | 8. EDUN

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The Mediterranean For a Mediterranean inspired day, take heed from your bold and beautiful surroundings as vibrant and daring colours take centre stage and make you the summer sensation. Surf the Sicilian wave in Gucci’s luscious green gown or experiment with flamboyant make-up and hairstyles, for a wedding filled with shades and shapes sure to create a fun and frivolous day.

1. DOLCE&GABBANA | 2. MATTHEW WILLIAMSON | 3. FELDER FELDER | 4. GUCCI | 5. ISSA | 6. VERSACE | 7. PETER SOM

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Gstaad With dresses from Oscar de la Renta and Giles, shine in radiant silvers mirroring the crisp and icy landscape of your wintery backdrop. Metallic eye-shadows combined with thick black kohl liner offer a daring and dazzling wedding look, whilst hair neatly slicked back suggests a simple modernity for that special day.

1. GIANFRANCO FERRE | 2. ELIE SAAB | 3. OSCAR DE LA RENTA | 4. GILES | 5. ANNE VALERIE HASH | 6. GUY LAROCHE | 7. VICTORIA BECKHAM | 8. RUE DU MAIL

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The Arabian Desert For a wedding that encourages elegance and luxury look towards a head-to-toe midnight black gown by Naeem Khan or a show stopping ruby red Elie Saab number. Hold on to some mystery with stunning smokey eyes in the deepest of shades or make an impact with claret coloured lips glossed to the max.

1. JEREMY SCOTT | 2. DENNIS BASSO | 3. NAEEM KHAN | 4. JENNY PACKHAM | 5. ELIE SAAB | 6. VERONIQUE BRANQUINHO | 7. JOHN GALLIANO | 8. NAEEM KHAN

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Wedding Cake Make your style sugar sweet with delicate lace, soft frills and preppy peplums in powdery pinks. Burberry’s pearly silk basque worn under CH Carolina Herrera’s sturdier jacket offers a soft sentiment to an otherwise strict style. Add some diamond and pearls, also known as the icing on the cake.

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1. Dior | 2. Lanvin | 3. Tiffany & Co | 4. Burberry Prorsum | 5. Alberta Ferretti | 6. Agent Provocateur |

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The ChangeUp Some invites require just that one special dress, but the requests we really look forward to are the weeklong affairs with the endless wardrobe changes. Go all out for the ceremony in floor length gowns in this season’s hues and then opt for below the knee floral numbers for the breakfasts and luncheons to follow. Mix and match fine jewellery with costume pieces to keep your style fresh throughout the week.

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1. Badgley Mischka | 2. Louis Mariette | 3. Faberge | 4. David Morris | 5. Erickson Beamon @net-a-porter.com |

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Under the Stars Be the star of your own show in evening gowns imagined from endless streams of sequins, diamonds and pearls such as these numbers from Stella McCartney, Marchesa and Elie Saab. For your finery, look to white gold jewellery sets by Damiani and Graff because whether it’s your honeymoon or simply another special occasion, diamonds are always a girl’s best friend.

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1. Zuhair Murad | 2&3. Damiani | 4. Cartier | 5. De Beers | 6. Marchesa @net-a-porter.com | 7&8. Graff | 9. Elie Saab @Boutique1.com |

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The One

Fantastical, gothic and forever moving, the Chanel SS13 Haute Couture collection was a woodland fairytale where dark battled light and the girls appeared as fragile swans on a catwalk destined for majesty. With every step came new possibilities and MOJEH was drawn to one figure in particular, Lindsey Wixson and the iconic path she cut through the crowd. We step into her shoes and take you through the possible journey of this one girl in that one dress on that one day.

‘Captured in the flashbulbs of the cameras a wicked smirk flits across her face. She makes eye contact with the lens and parts on a flurry of tulle and lace, her shoulders rounded perfectly so as to create a barrier of illusion. One amongst many, there is an aura that draws you in and holds you captive.’

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‘The one is always destined to wear that which does her justice. This dress, this piece of intricate and delicate mastery is carefully hand-stitched for the protagonist. Layer upon layer of artisan craft is minutely dissected and formed into a one of a kind piece for Wixson and her enchanting form.’

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‘Dancing to her own tune, she is not one to succumb to the notions of others. For she is coy yet confident, fearless yet faithful, true to herself throughout. A glance in the mirror ensures that everything is in place and the dress and the girl are ready for their close up.’

‘From the shadows she darts. Ready to take centre stage in the one place where she belongs; the spotlight with all eyes turned towards her. Multifaceted she descends, elegant as a swan yet stealthy as a fox. Mirrors fragment her appearance, she is everywhere, she represents everyone and everything. We long to piece the fragments back together but she is too quick, too light. We are left with but a memory.’

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‘In a heartbeat she is gone. The Lindsey, the one, the only. Slipping through the portals of our mind she disappears. A fleeting glimpse of myriad buttons, a scalloped edge, a framed shoulder is all that is left to hold on to. The gothic fairy of the runway is no more.’

All images courtesy of Chanel.

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IN LOVE WITH LHUILLIER By Giverney Megan Edwards

A woman’s bridal gown is as much to have and to hold, for better for worse and till death do us part as the man she chooses to marry, and the journey to find ‘the one’ is just as memorable and momentous as the wedding itself. We meet designer Monique Lhuillier, the magic-wandwaving expert who has perfected the miracle elixir of making each and every Ljuillier woman feel always the bride, and never the bridesmaid – an ode to the mantra of ‘confidence is key.’ 97


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or every bride to be, the choice of designer must be a match made in heaven, almost as pivotal as the maid of honour, and just as particular. Monique Lhuillier – having been a blushing bride herself, and a multitasking mother of two - understands this journey and more, vowing to make each one of her clients feel ‘confident, beautiful, sophisticated and special, whether it be their wedding day, an important event or just a fun evening out.’ It is the idea of personalisation - the emotive connection and the understanding that every bride must feel ‘special…because women always look their best when they feel beautiful,’ that makes Lhuillier stand out from her competitors. Individualisation is the key, far more so than silhouette and trend, and she genuinely cares about each creation; ‘Every time a bride chooses to wear one of my dresses I am honoured to be a part of one of the most important days of her life. It’s always gratifying when women show me pictures of themselves on their wedding day. It’s a special experience to know that with all the beautiful gowns out there, someone has chosen one of my designs.’ Each gown is bound to the bride in memory as much as the wedding band she wears, and it is Lhuillier’s intuitive adherence to the magnitude of this fact that is perhaps the secret to her success. She has personally encountered the challenge of finding a piece both ‘fashion-forward’ and yet ‘feminine, beautiful and timeless.’ As a result of searching to fulfil her own criteria, the pieces she designs are always ones that she admires or would personally wear herself. Lhuillier brides then, whether their chosen piece is custom made or handpicked from the collection,

‘Every time a bride chooses to wear one of my dresses I am honoured to be a part of one of the most important days of her life,’ Monique Lhuillier.

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can rest assured that the signature Lhuillier confidence will come hand in hand. Considering the magical, sylph-like quality to her bridal collections (her signature fabrics, lace and tulle, are paramount to almost every piece, allowing her to create her desired ethereal illusion of brides ‘floating through the room’), it is surprising to hear that Lhuillier gleans the stock of her inspiration from everyday life in California, in which her impish eye finds ‘so much natural beauty in the diverse surroundings.’ Having two young children opens her eyes to the beauty of innocence and purity, which laces itself evidently into her effortlessly elegant gowns; ‘they are a constant source of inspiration because their perspective on life is so open – they see the world through such an imaginative lens.’ Lhuillier’s lens is equally expansive, her vision encompassing far more than the bridal collection she is renowned for. Hers really is a fairytale, a classic case of a young girl with big dreams, who began sketching and customising dresses just like her mother - also a successful, high end children’s designer - from the age of 11. Now happily married with a serenely secure concrete foundation - her husband, Tom Bugbee, is the CEO of Monique Lhuillier Inc., founded in 1996 - she is able to indulge in her creative freedom and signature playfulness, living her dream and then some, cultivating a RTW collection (launched in 2002) and an entire lifestyle brand (launched in 2008). ‘With risk comes reward,’ she professes, and she is certainly testament to her own advice. For who would not want to buy into the Lhuillier lifestyle? The beauty of Lhuillier Inc. is its perfect entirety – cleverly connected by the three key elements of the Lhuillier aesthetic

Indulging in the lifestyle is a playful step into a tailor-made, real-life fairytale in which every woman can play the princess in her own life.

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– ‘chic, feminine and refined with a touch of glamour.’ Indulging in the Lhuillier lifestyle is a playful step into a tailor-made, real-life fairytale in which every woman can play the princess in her own life – not just while wearing beautiful occasion gowns, but with each ready to wear piece chosen, each accessory added, and every lifestyle element coveted for her home. The Lhuillier woman is the heroine of her own story, powerful, polished and poised – yet playful, of course. And if she could choose the perfect LHuillier muse? ‘I would love to dress the First Lady, Michelle Obama,’ she gushes. ‘She is the quintessential Lhuillier woman – confident, sophisticated and glamorous.’ But what for the woman who seeks a softer sophistication, as suitable for the every day as for her big day? The surprising cleverness of Lhuillier’s rtw collection is that each piece is less ready-to-wear as ready-to-wow. The inspiration for Spring 2013 stemmed from a fascination with the magical qualities hidden within our natural world, with ‘birds, brightly coloured fish, glowing sunlight on water and the luminescence of moonlit waves’ amongst the points of departure for both daywear separates and evening gowns. Delicate peplum dresses in silks and crepes dazzled in inky blues and blacks, smattered with virginal white, and an abundance of floor length gowns were characteristically clean cut with exquisitely weightless tulle that rippled in soft waves against the silhouette. Simplicity is key, and there is no fuss, no frivolity to any piece. ‘At the end of the day,’ explains Lhuillier, ‘I want to make clothing that women want to wear. Opening my own boutiques has really given me an

The Lhuillier woman is the heroine of her own story, powerful, polished and poised – yet playful, of course.

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Designer All looks Monique Lhuillier ss13 and Bridal ss13.

inside perspective to what Lhuillier women want and where they are willing to take some fashion risks. That knowledge has been really helpful for striking a balance between fashion- forwardness and wearability.’ Evidently, each piece keeps the feminine aesthetic close to its heart, and shapes never stray too far from the flattering feminine backbone that Lhuillier rtw has come to be associated with. Yet the spring collection was still wildly whimsical, showcasing sequins in peacock colours, flashes of emerald green and canary yellow, and indulgent metallic ‘wow’ gowns, marrying at once the idea of the sophisticated sylph with the daringly confident inner goddess. That desirable balance has recently been embraced by an elite ensemble of celebrity fans, including the tower of power Hilary Swank and queens of confidence Eva Longoria and Blake Lively. With an ever-expanding list of independent women dazzling in her designs, it’s no wonder that Lhuillier finds the process of working with celebrities energising. Heart-warmingly, we’re reminded of Lhuillier’s humbleness when she describes how flattered she feels upon seeing her dresses on the red carpet: ‘It is the ultimate compliment…I still get giddy with excitement!’ Let us not forget, of course, that Lhuillier is living as the heroine in her own fairytale – as much in search of her own happy ending as the women she dresses. In love with Lhuillier may well be an understatement. The perfect match for women who are sometimes the bride, sometimes the bridesmaid, but always the belle of the ball - what could be better? It’s enough to make us say ‘I do.’

The spring collection was wildly whimsical, showcasing sequins in peacock colours, flashes of emerald green and canary yellow.

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THE depths of desire Photographed by Mitchell and Wulff Styled by Anatolli Smith

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White embroidered cotton and lace dress, VINTAGE BY WILLIAM VINTAGE

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Smoking dress, DIOR | Leather socks, PRADA | Shoes, CELINE | Gloves, VINTAGE BY ATELIER MAYER | Brooch, CHANEL

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White netted dress, EMILIO PUCCI | Pants, AGENT PROVOCATEUR | Necklace, CHANEL

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Top and apron, PRADA | Gloves, VINTAGE BY ATELIER MAYER

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Coat, skirt and gloves, MIU MIU | Leather socks, PRADA | Shoes, CELINE

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Fur coat and shoes, CELINE | Leather socks, PRADA

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Sleeveless turtleneck and coat, CALVIN KLEIN | Belt, VICTORIA BECKHAM | Leather socks, PRADA | Shoes, CELINE

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Models: Mary Balentyne at Select Models and Lonnie at FM Models | Hair Stylist: Show Fujimoto | Make-up Artist: Keiko Nakamura | Photographer’s assistants: Panos Damaskinidis and Sam Hickson | Stylist’s assistant: Julia Dalrymple | Production: Louis Agency

Coat, shoes and hat, SAINT LAURENT BY HEDI SLIMANE

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Love’s Understatement Photographed by Sebastien Jardini Styled by Guillaume Boulez

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Top and Trousers, CELINE | Headpiece, Stylist’s own

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Trench coat, SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

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Skirt, top and shoes, ROCHAS

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Top, peplum, skirt, socks and shoes, PRADA

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Dress, necklace and bracelet, MIU MIU

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Dress, DIOR

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Dress, LANVIN

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Shirt, jacket, skirt and necklace, GIVENCHY

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Dress, MICHAEL KORS

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Model: Jenna Earle at Next Models | Hair Stylist: Mike Desir at B Agency | Make-up Artist: Elise Ducrot at B Agency | Photographer’s assistants: Caroline Lollo, Mohamed Ali Ghouayel | Stylist’s assistant: Clemence Leray | Production: Louis Agency

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A Stylish Proposal The marriage of navy and black is one that played out ubiquitously on the SS13 runways. Traditionally a moderate faux pas, interest is found in a subtle clash that feels borderline uncomfortable but nonetheless works. For date night or even the night on which you set the date, a pop of crimson passion in accent reds lifts the look from corporate to compelling, guaranteeing a yes or a simple ‘I do’.

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1. HERMES | 2. CH CAROLINA HERRERA | 3. CARRERA Y CARRERA | 4. COMME DES GARÇONS @Saks Fifth Avenue | 5. IWC | 6. BURBERRY PRORSUM |

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Be The Best Man Crisp, clean and complex, the new white is an exercise in contrasting minimalism with abstract. Think artist, as a well-cut blank canvas is adorned with graphic print. Spring blossoms in unconventional form with atypical florals – more dynamic than dainty – and pieces have an off kilter charm in what is really an updated take on traditionalism. Balanced but individual, it’s a recipe that is as much top table as top drawer.

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1. VALENTINO | 2. BRIONI | 3. MONT BLANC | 4. VACHERON CONSTANTIN | 5. VIVIENNE WESTWOOD | 6. CH CAROLINA HERRERA |

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7. SPENCER HART @MrPorter.com | 8. & 9. MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA @MrPorter.com | 10. ALEXANDER MCQUEEN | 11. RALPH LAUREN

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Haman, Farhan and Babak Golkar

The Power of Three Through their label Emperor 1688, the Golkar brothers are bringing their inimitable style to the Middle East. We stopped by their studio to discuss menswear, inspiration and why three is never a crowd when it comes to design.

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he Golkar studio, an immaculate space in the shadow of the Burj al Arab, is a testament to the progressive attitude of three brothers in arms. Despite a few flashes of ornate menswear – temporarily in situ after recently walking the runway at Fashion Forward – it is a shrine to their foray into women’s couture and demonstration that, despite the success of their menswear label Emperor 1688, they are not done yet. But of course it was in menswear that they made their name and it is here that they continue to bring their distinct

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aesthetic to a burgeoning but hungry audience. ‘The Emperor 1688 man is an innovator. He needs beautiful luxury garments and wears them with confidence,’ explains Haman. ‘His clothes are an outward expression of what he has achieved and how he feels on the inside.’ Indeed if achievement is gauged through style, then the British-Iranian brothers have scored on all accounts. Purveyors of pieces that combine classicism with a witty eccentricity, they have taken their idea of designing for a man who is,


Interview

For a brand with such a clear direction and vision, it is easy to forget that at the helm are three siblings. Any rivalries however, have been left at the door of the atelier in the quest to bring their concept to fruition. ‘The secret to our relationship is teamwork and the success in what we are achieving motivates us to work closer together,’ explains Farhan. ‘Of course we had many ups and downs and differences of opinion,’ continues Haman, ‘but we also think having three different mind-sets when designing is a benefit for our brand. Where Babak is the more creative one in our company, Farhan is all about making our garments look as luxury as possible. Then we have myself who is more classic and refined.’ Together the brothers are carving a niche for themselves in thinly tread territory, bringing the idiosyncratic edge that comes from a creative training in London to an audience with an appetite for individual style. And on the future for the fashionable triptych? ‘We’re concentrating on opening more stores across the Middle East but now having established a successful business in such a tough climate, I guess we work around the clock to maintain it.’

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‘aware of culture and the arts, of world civilization and fuses all of these into his modern life’, and created a successful label that is stocked by Saks Fifth Avenue and has a flagship store in the Madinat Jumeirah – the first of several boutiques planned for the Middle East. For their latest collection, an array of baroque prints and embellished separates, the brothers looked to historic France for contemporary inspiration. ‘We were thinking about what style would be like had the French Revolution never happened,’ says Babak whilst gesturing at an elaborately patterned shirt, ‘What would they be wearing? Thinking about this led us to merge elements of that bold style with modern dress.’ The result is a collection that feels vibrant and inventive, but grounded in the realities of what a fashion-savvy man of today wants to wear and, as importantly, be seen in. A hooded sweatshirt with a flamboyant rococo lining meets a classic blazer with gold applique, ‘Fun in fashion for us is using eccentric colours, fabric, patterns and embellishments within the details of our garments,’ they explain. ‘It’s different and yet wearable.’

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Ralph Lauren On a Scroll

Looking toward the rich traditions of Spain for a source of summer inspiration, Ralph Lauren’s SS13 collection went from strength to strength on the runway featuring the house’s most loved styles – bias cut dresses, lace skirts and masculine tailoring - infused with fierce Spanish sentiments such as the flamenco and senorita girls. The spotlight was on the accessories as floppy hats, silk ribbon neck scarves and leather fan clutches sang the Spanish lullaby for the brand. Standout pieces for any woman looking to showcase her penchant for quality come in the form of the Vachetta Scroll collection. With its

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spacious silhouette, sturdy lining and lasercut leather the tote is the new it bag to see you through the summer. The cutout design offers stunning curves that eventually script the famous RL emblem on the front and back. Similarly the clutch and shoes offer the same enchanting appeal but instead lean on the edge of eveningwear, perfect for a wedding or summer party. Crafted in Italy, as Ralph Lauren’s accessory house reaches its fifth anniversary, it’s fast becoming one of the most sought after lines in the luxury landscape. If the strength of SS13 is anything to go by, we’re already prepping our purses for autumn.


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Patricia Rosales The Shoe that Fits

Specialising in handcrafted ‘haute couture’ designs, Patricia Rosales’ customised shoes are created from an aesthetic that combines stylish designs with exquisite jewellery pieces and the personal preference of the wearer. The result? One-off pieces that beautifully mirror the woman who wears them. Her journey began as a young girl who instantly became fascinated by fashion, footwear in particular. Following her penchant for bespoke, Rosales crafted her first pair for a friend who also happened to be a Saudi Arabian Princess and thereafter the brand’s Cinderella-like repertoire began. Primarily using jewels,

precious stones and feathers to adorn each creation, Rosales encourages the dressingup treatment by using the personalities and desires of the women she designs for as a springboard of inspiration. But even bespoke has its consistencies and like each Louboutin swears by its red sole, Rosales delicately places individual pearls on the inside of each of her heels as a true mark of quality. She believes that shoes symbolise freedom, so for women who know where they want to go in life – whether it’s up the aisle, into the boardroom or down Fifth Avenue - this shoemaker promises to deliver.

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Philip Treacy Hats Off

With a client base that boasts the likes of Sarah Jessica Parker, Grace Jones and Sam Taylor-Johnson, Treacy’s creativity and bold vision has captured the hearts of celebrities and hat lovers the world over. The London based milliner grew up with an eye for style and today describes his pieces as having a ‘life beyond just a fashionable item of clothing’. Best-friend, model and muse Susie Bick is frequently seen adorning his newest creations, more often than not on the over-sized end of the spectrum. ‘I always feel protected wearing

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one; it acts like a veil from the world.’ The designer uses fashion shows as his platform for expression – Treacy has been commissioned by Chanel, Gareth Pugh and Donna Karen to name just a few – where he showcases his design precision, attention to detail and a slight eccentricity at times. ‘I haven’t invented the hat,’ he declares. ‘I have a worldwide audience open to seeing hats from a different perspective and one of the most exciting aspects of my job is that I have an opportunity to influence how people see hats in the twenty-first century.’


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Vera Wang Table-Top Treasures

One of Manhattan’s most famed design houses, headed by one of the city’s most respected designers, Vera Wang, has been the industry leader in bridal collections since it opened its doors to the New York boutique in 1990. With rich embellishments, stunning designs and sumptuous fabrics (not to mention a penchant for the big screen), each Vera Wang gown breathes elegance and romance. Setting the standards, as opposed to following them, modern twists on classic ideals are endlessly re-imagined throughout her collections, including ready-

to-wear, fragrance, gifts and crystal. This feminine and delicate collection of tableware exemplifies a brand already built on precision and strong design. Embracing the same aspirational undertones used in her bridal wear, Vera Wang appreciates the meaning and sentiment of marriage and designs pieces to match the strength and unique nature of partnerships. The china and crystal dinnerware set, created in collaboration with Wedgwood, promises not only to live up to the beauty of your marriage but host many a momentous occasion to run alongside it.

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Interview

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Beneath the Face of Time MOJEH talks to Laurence Nicolas, the President of Dior Timepieces and Head of Fine Jewellery, about the new additions to the Dior VIII collection and why the meaning of haute couture is just as important when imagining timepieces.

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How does the process of creating a new timepiece work in the Dior house? Do the designs come first and then the technology after? Yes, this is the way we work. As an Haute Couture house the idea will come from our Paris studio on Avenue Montaigne, who then challenges our R&D department in La Chaux-de Fonds to convey the artistic message through the technicality of the watch. This is never an easy task and sometimes the makers in Switzerland will tell us it’s not possible. To introduce the feathers into the Grand Bal watch for example was completely unfeasible at first, but we insisted and finally won. At the end of the day everyone is very proud to come up with a design that is both creative and demanding in craftsmanship.

Interview

Mojeh

What can we expect from Dior watches this year? We have two key launches. Firstly we worked around the theme of god and gold following Jean Cocteau’s famous quote about Mr Christian Dior himself, ‘Dans Dior, il y a dieu et de l’or.’ Meaning that in Dior there is god and gold. We studied this idea with the design studio and then introduced gold into the Dior VIII collection, firstly with gold finishes and secondly with the colours of the feathers. This year we really wanted the colours of the feathers to work in harmony with the pink gold detailing. These additions were launched at Baselworld last month. Then at the end of the year the Grand Bal watch will be available with a 33mm case, a more technical launch for the collection. Our objective was to provide a very small and feminine complication for the woman, however it took over two years to achieve with the R&D department as complications ideally need a lot of space. Launching in September, the new version will have more jewels and will look more feminine and be easier to wear on small wrists.

Dior VIII, 33mm in white ceramic with pink gold, mother of pearl and diamonds

Which part of the Dior house does the Grand Bal collection represent? The inspiration of Grand Bal is really Mr Dior himself. He was so fond of having big parties and balls and was delighted to see the costumes in the room. So we decided to reproduce this scene inside of a watch, the movement inside works like the twirling effect of a skirt for example. It’s really a metaphor for femininity and the princess way of life – very Dior! Mr Dior once said, ‘elegance is an ensemble where the invisible is as important as the visible’. How does this apply to Dior timepieces? This aspect is really crucial for us. For timepieces the craftsmanship is extremely demanding and the inner details are vital – in just the same way that the lining of a dress must be as exquisite as the outside. This is why the tiny details and mechanisms in our watches - all those parts that you can’t see - must be as refined as the ones that you can. For instance, even on a very simple watch the buckle could be steel but paved in diamonds. This is an element that is only recognised when you look very closely, but for the woman, the excitement is in knowing that she is wearing diamonds. Victoire de Castellane follows the same passage in her high-jewellery collections, this really is what a true haute couture house is about.

Dior VIII, Grand Bal Plume 38mm in black ceramic with pink gold, mother of pearl, diamonds and feathers

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Icon

American actress Emma Stone carries herself with an air of sensibility: a young woman who is already at ease with her burgeoning style status, flying the flag for everything simple but statement. The naturally blonde beauty has remained in the limelight since her debut in the hit movie Superbad, in part down to her winning skills on screen, but otherwise it’s her achingly enviable red carpet looks that keep the cameras flashing. Rather than adorning herself in bling, Stone prefers quality over quantity and accessorises with minimal pieces attracting maximum attention. The Arizona born star is often seen with just one or two rings in place, the cleanest of diamonds in her ears and the slenderest of slides in her hair. If the dress strays toward fussy, the trimmings pull it back in place. There is of course a certain experimentation that comes with being 24 and in showing her versatility she quickly shifts from Hollywood sweetheart to striking siren. With the kick of a stiletto or the flash of her neck laden in striking and strong statement pieces - add a pop of colour to the lips and hair tightly pulled back - the rising star goes from girly to grown-up instantaneously.

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From top to bottom, left to right courtesy of: Ben Pruchnie, Andrew H. Walker, Jason Merritt, Pascal Le Segretain, Frazer Harrison, Ethan Miller, Jason Merritt, Larry Busacca, Pascal Le Segretain, Dimitrios Kambouris, Alberto E. Rodriguez, Jason Merritt, Carlos Alvarez /All Getty Images.

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The Perfect Proposal E

Legacy Rings photographed by Carlton Davis.

ach moment is different. A couple sits beneath fragrant cherry blossoms on a park bench. Maybe they are on a moonlit bridge over the River Seine, surrounded by the magic of Paris. Perhaps they are by a roaring fireplace in the mountains or in the restaurant where they first met. He reaches into his pocket for a tiny blue box. He looks into her eyes. He asks, ‘Will you marry me?’ No matter the place, the magic is in the Tiffany Blue Box. No diamond means ‘true love’ like a Tiffany diamond and no engagement ring means ‘I love you’ in quite the same way. The unmatched sparkle says romance, the famed settings say tradition, and together they make the magic moment of a marriage proposal perfect.

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Exclusive

Mojeh Grand Central Terminal, New York City. Photographed by Carter Smith.

Tiffany & CO, Legacy diamond rings in platinum

Long before Tiffany and Co. opened its doors in New York City in 1837, engagement rings were a thing of joy. The first was set with a diamond and given to Mary of Burgundy by Archduke Maximilian of Hamburg in 1477. Still, it was Charles Lewis Tiffany (1812–1902) who made the engagement ring a cause for worldwide celebration. In 1886 he introduced the Tiffany Setting, raising a single diamond above the band and into the light using six platinum prongs that mirror the symmetry of the stone’s cut. ‘The simplicity of the style stood out at the turn-of-the-century,’ says fine jewellery historian Marion Fasel. ‘Charles Lewis Tiffany understood that women really just wanted to see a beautiful stone that represented fidelity and an invincible relationship,’ she says. ‘He lifted the stone to the light in the purest and most romantic way.’ The introduction of the Tiffany Setting, along with the purchase of the French Crown Jewels in 1887, solidified Mr Tiffany’s reputation as the ‘King of Diamonds,’ and thus began the legacy of extraordinary gemstones that have made Tiffany the diamond authority it remains today. From the famed Tiffany Diamond that appeared in publicity shots for Breakfast at Tiffany’s - its 128.54 blazing carats make it one of the largest and finest fancy yellow diamonds in the world - to the 10-carat yellow diamond necklace worn by Kate Winslet on the red carpet at the 2010 Oscars, Tiffany & Co. sells only the world’s most superlative stones. They are cut for beauty, not size, a sacrifice the company makes to ensure the utmost brilliance, dispersion and scintillation. What makes them truly special however is the simple elegance of their settings. ‘Every Tiffany setting is unique, just like the bride who wears one,’ says Jon King, Tiffany’s Executive Vice President. ‘We cut the stones for optimal brilliance and pay special attention to proportion and scale to create the absolute perfect ring. From the design, to the craftsmanship, to the little Blue Box, Tiffany symbolises nothing but the best when it comes to love’s ultimate statement.’ You only need to hold any of the Tiffany masterpieces to believe in the unique magic these jewels offer. There’s the Lucida whose diamond is set in an open, diamond encrusted band and the Legacy which features a cushion-cut diamond, even the Novo, Grace or Soleste – each evoking its own charm and poise. Then of course comes Harmony. As the newest edition to the Tiffany engagement family, Harmony features an exquisitely hand cut, round diamond mounted in a tapered platinum setting that elegantly shoulders the stone, handcrafted to support both style and sentiment. ‘The Tiffany engagement ring has withstood the test of time,’ Fasel says. ‘Brilliant simplicity to wear every day of your life.’ There is no finer moment to celebrate, and no more perfect a proposal.

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Something Old Nothing says classic quite like an array of beautifully quaint accessories, such as Dior’s cream and gold finished clutch purse or Mikimoto’s delicate branch of pearls. Monochrome colour combinations like these Manolo Blahnik and Balenciaga heels create a timeless feel for the woman who maintains a sophisticated appeal.

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1. Chanel | 2. Marianna G | 3. Dior | 4. Ralph Lauren | 5. Manolo Blahnik | 6. Philip Treacy | 7. Balenciaga | 8. Slink | 9. Hermione Harbutt | 10. Mikimoto

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Something New Look shiny and new with a brilliant-cut diamond and let its many facets reflect the light like none other. Graff’s butterfly watch will attract others with its emerald leather strap and bewildering diamond face, whilst Faberge’s earrings will draw attention as they elegantly showcase all the colours of the rainbow.

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1. Jenny Packham | 2. Bulgari | 3. Faberge | 4. Tiffany & Co | 5. Graff | 6. Chanel | 7. Dior | 8. Chopard

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Something Borrowed Adorn yourself in jewellery’s most iconic pieces, borrowed from the past and now re-imagined for contemporary collections. Follow Coco Chanel through time and space with the Etoile necklace inspired by the original 1932 collection or try the reworked Bulgari Serpenti watch. Princess Josephine may have worn it on her head, but Chaumet’s tiara ring makes for just as royal a statement.

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Something Blue Dive into the ocean with an array of crystal clear turquoise and ultramarines and add a wave of the deep blue to your summer wardrobe. Be bold with a Dior tweed clutch or go for something simpler with Chanel’s quilted version.

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The Diamond days Photographed by Riccardo Vimercati Styled by Lester Garcia

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Savoy Headpiece and Black Onyx diamond ring, TIFFANY & CO | Green metallic dress with sequin neckline, GIUILIETTA | Brown fox fur stole, ADRIANNE LANDAU | Baby blue satin gloves, LA CRASIA He wears: Ziegfeld ring, TIFFANY & CO

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Daisy Hand ornament and Diamond Double Tassel necklace, TIFFANY & CO | Light green satin two piece skirt and top set, PRADA | Gold satin gloves, CAROLINA AMATO

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Daisy Brooch, Morganite Earrings, Pink and White Diamond Round ring, TIFFANY & CO | Ivory silk-satin slip dress and brown turban, ROCHAS | Brown fur vest, THE ROW AT BOUTIQUE1 | Ivory silk-satin gloves, CAROLINA AMATO He wears: Ziegfeld ring, TIFFANY & CO

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Lucida earrings, Diamond Corsage bangle and Diamond Corsage Tiered Petal ring, TIFFANY & CO | Light grey satin coat, white satin bra top and nude maxi skirt, MIU MIU | Powder blue sheer gloves, SERMONETA

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Diamond Corsage necklace and Corsage Floral Cluster ring, TIFFANY & CO | Pink silk chiffon dress and pink resin headband, DONNA KARAN | Pink sheer gloves, LA CRASIA

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Pink and White Diamond Square ring and Fringe necklace, TIFFANY & CO | Black jersey V-neck jumpsuit, VALENTINO | Black and white marabou feather stole, L’WREN SCOTT | Black turban, ALERTUS QUARTUS

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Aquamarine Diamond Drop earrings, Montana Sapphires Trellis bracelet and Montana Sapphires Open Work bracelet, TIFFANY & CO | Ivory silk slip dress, BLUMARINE | White lamb fur stole, ADRIANNE LANDAU | Pink satin gloves, LA CRASIA

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Flower ring and Diamond Corsage Floral Cluster ring, TIFFANY & CO | Black sheer and sequin slip dress, JASON WU | Black satin gloves with black and white marabou feather trim, LA CRASIA | Black headband with feathers, LEAH C

Models: Suzzana D at Next Models, Victor N at Ford Models and Phillip M at NY Models | Hair Stylist: Marco Santini for ION Studio at the Wall Group | Make-up Artist: Munemi Imai for munskin.com at The Magnet Agency | Photographer’s assistants: Zomnia Vasquez, Dave Sweeney and Marc Vacchi | Stylist’s assistants: Marcelo Gaia, Gerry Henry and Sam Woolf | Jazz band: Michael Feinberg | NY Casting and local Production: Roger Inniss at Boom Productions | NY production assistant: Walter Vroegop | Production: Louis Agency Male 1: Tan two piece suit and white shirt, JIL SANDER | Brown brogues, BURBERRY | Black round optical frames, MOSCOT Male 2: Pink two piece suit and pink shirt, GIVENCHY | Tortoise round optical frames, MOSCOT

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With this rock Photographed by Federico De Angelis

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Petales de Camelia earrings, CHANEL HIGH JEWELLERY

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Duo de Camelias earrings, Duo de Camelias necklace (worn on hand) and Duo de Camelia bracelet, CHANEL HIGH JEWELLERY

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Camelia Solaire ring and Camelia Solaire bracelet, CHANEL HIGH JEWELLERY

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Camelia Gourmand necklace and Camelia Corolle ring, CHANEL HIGH JEWELLERY

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From left to right: Camelia Givre, Camelia Crinoline and Camelia rings, CHANEL HIGH JEWELLERY

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Petales de Camelia necklace and Petales de Camelia cuff, CHANEL HIGH JEWELLERY

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Left hand: Camelia Exotique brooch and right hand: Camelia Ocean ring, CHANEL HIGH JEWELLERY

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All make-up: CHANEL All clothes: Metiers d’Arts, Paris Edinburgh, CHANEL

Camelia Origami earrings and Camelia Origami bracelet, CHANEL HIGH JEWELLERY

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Model: Zoi at Oui Management| Hair stylist: Christian Attuly at B Agency | Make-up artist: Jabe at B Agency | Photographer’s assistant: Ignazio Nano | Production: Louis Agency

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Beauty

The Darling Buds of May Match your makeup to your bouquet the MOJEH way.

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White Anemone Family: Ranunculaceae Season: Winter Meaning: Unfading love Place of origin: Europe Did you know: According to Greek legend, the Anemone emerged from the tears of Aphrodite during her mourning for Adonis.

1. ESTEE LAUDER, Nail Lacquer in Smashed | 2. DEBORAH LIPPMAN, Nail Lacquer in Stairway to Heaven | 3. DIOR, J’adore Voile de Parfum | 4. GUERLAIN, L’or Makeup Base | 5. LAURA MERCIER, Lip Plumper in Lychee | 6. CHANEL, Hong Kong Collection, Ombres Matelassées in Pearl River | 7. YSL, La Laque Couture in 29, Dore Orfevre | 8. MAC, Eyeliner in Permaplum | 9. GIORGIO ARMANI, Fatal Attraction Quad | 10. CHANEL, Le Vernis in Taboo | 11. ESTEE LAUDER, Pure Colour Palette in Desert Heat

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French Tulip Family: Liliaceae Season: Spring Meaning: Desire and passion Place of origin: Central Asia Did you know: In Persia, giving someone a red tulip is to declare your love, with the black centre representing the lover’s heart burned to coal by love’s passion.

1. OPI, Nail Lacquer in Brights Power | 2. ELLIS FAAS, Ellis Eyes E302 in Light Green Gold | 3. JO MALONE, Orange Blossom Cologne | 4. GUERLAIN, KissKiss Gloss in Frizzy Mango | 5. ESSIE, Nail Varnish in First Timer | 6. GIORGIO ARMANI, Eyes to Kill in Intense Acqua | 7. TOM FORD, Lip Colour Shine in Insidious | 8. YSL, La Laque Couture in 34, Jade Impérial | 9. CHANEL, Rouge Coco in Sentiment | 10. GUERLAIN, Four Colour Eyeshadow Palette in Les Fauves

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Thistle Family: Asteraceae Season: Summer Meaning: Independence and nobility Place of origin: The Mediterranean Did you know: The Thistle is the national emblem of Scotland and came to be during the war between Scotland and the Vikings. When the Vikings attempted to surprise the Scots at night, one of them placed his foot upon a thistle, crying out in pain and thus alerting the unsuspecting army to their presence.

1. MAC, Nail Lacquer in Girl Trouble | 2. LANCOME, Vernis in Love, Midnight Roses | 3. TOM FORD, Lipstick in Violet Fatale | 4. NARS, Soft Touch Shadow Pencil in Calabria | 5. MAC, Liquid Last Liner in Power Plum | 6. BOBBI BROWN, Metallic Eyeshadow in Cognac | 7. TOM FORD, Neroli Portofino Eau de Parfum | 8. CLARINS, Mineral Palette in Iris Blossom | 9. YSL, Rouge Volupte Shine in No.3 | 10. YSL, Dessin du Regard in No. 15

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Tea Rose Family: Rosaceae Season: All Meaning: Happiness, romance and admiration Place of origin: Asia Did you know: The world’s oldest living rose is 1000 years old and grows on the wall of the Cathedral of Hildesheim in Germany. According to legend, its existence symbolises the prosperity and future of the city.

1. CHANEL, Lèvres Scintillantes in Daydream | 2. SISLEY, Phyto Lip Gloss in Beige Rose | 3. BALENCIAGA, Eau Rose | 4. ILLAMASQUA, Nail Varnish in Duck Egg Scarce | 5. DIOR, Vernis in Gris Trianon | 6. YSL, Pure Chromatics in No. 19 | 7. CHANTECAILLE, Les Pétales, Lumière de Rose Highlighter | 8. KEVYN AUCOIN, The Expert Lipstick in Dantrice | 9. NARS, The Happening palette | 10. LAURA MERCIER, Lip Hydrant in Rose Tint | 11. KEVYN AUCOIN, The Expert Lip Stick in Faith

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Column

The Beauty

CHLOE, Love Eau de Parfum miniature

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LAURA MERCIER, Secret Finish, Mattifying

any of us have experienced that moment when our best friend asks us to be a bridesmaid – a moment of exhilaration, then gratitude and then a slightly irksome feeling that, as much as we wouldn’t want to admit, bears a small resemblance to envy. Now we’re not saying that it’s a rule of thumb for everyone. We’re sure there are numerous people who are genuinely happy to run around after a bride satisfying her every want and need, but for some this ‘privilege’ wears thin fast. And here’s why. As much as the bride is concerned that her bridesmaids look respectable you’ll never be allowed to look as good as you can and that is because your one, unwavering duty throughout this day is to ensure the bride looks blooming marvellous from start to finish; a time consuming task that removes any small possibility of touching up your own visage along the way. When your handbag is crammed full of touch-up products for the bride, cameras, confetti and the like then the chance of squeezing any of your own tricks and tools into the remaining nooks and crannies is pretty slim. You are not there to worry about yourself and a dilemma such as this always brings to mind a rather apt quote from one Charlotte York a la Sex and the City. ‘I’ve been tasteful and appropriate at seven other weddings. It’s always – ‘Don’t look at me, look at the bride’,’ she exclaims, whilst adopting the air of a petulant child. For those of us who are less fixated on finding ‘the one’ than Miss York, this reaction might seem a tad over-zealous. It’s more than likely that most of us would go about our duties with a smile, if somewhat strained, plastered across our faces. For everyone that falls into this category a handy checklist of emergency supplies is in order; we wouldn’t want to fall short at the last hurdle when the bride is in desperate need of some lip pucker now would we? As anyone would guess

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LANCOME, Doll Eyes Waterproof Mascara

PHILIP B, Jet Set Precision Control hair spray

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a Bridesmaid We can’t begrudge the bride her big day but sometimes being a bridesmaid is a lot more hassle than it’s worth. the first essential tool is a sturdy waterproof mascara. Tearing up at a wedding is all part of the course, for guests and bride alike, but unlike her friends and relatives the star of the show has to be photo-ready at any given opportunity (panda eyes really aren’t a great look). The new Lancome Hypnose Doll Eyes is our go-to favourite of the moment, resistant to the hilt and easy to apply on the go. A small bottle of perfume is another must. Running around with a dress that no doubt weighs more than you is no mean feat and a handy spritz throughout the day will be forever appreciated. From that we go to the slightly less obvious make-up resuscitator. Laura Mercier’s Secret Finish is a hidden gem and when quickly and lightly patted over your existing foundation will mattify, lift and generally improve an otherwise fading aura. On an occasion as big as your wedding day no bride has the energy or inclination to worry about a smudged lip and a stray flyaway, so it’s the job of a bridesmaid to keep watch and rectify as soon as possible. One day they’ll return the favour and you’ll be glad you paid so much attention in the first place.

DIOR, Dior Addict Gloss in Atout Cœur



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From top to bottom, left to right images courtesy of: DOLCE&GABBANA

Secrets

The Beauty


Secrets

The Beauty

The Italian Way Actress Monica Bellucci on a beauty regime that includes children, good food and a little bit of gloss. MOJEH delves into the Italian way of a beautiful life.

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arried to actor Vincent Cassel, a mother of two and a long-standing ambassador for Dolce&Gabbana, Monica Bellucci’s life is made up of more than just the characters she plays. Known for her passionate approach to living and an attitude that takes everything with a pinch of salt, she is no stranger to diversity. With a film portfolio consisting of everything from the extreme to the passionate she has made an impression on the world with her dark, alluring looks and curvaceous figure. Here we talk to the star about the children that changed her outlook on life and how she keeps up with the demands of a beauty obsessed industry.

I never leave home without: My passport. In my fridge you will always find: Good and nutritious fresh food. The products l can’t live without are: Moisturiser and red lipstick. My secret to staying fit is: Always being on the go. My favourite thing about life is: My daughters. I treat myself with: Good food and female friends whenever l have the chance to relax. I look my best when: l’m happy. The biggest beauty faux pas is: Wearing heavy eye makeup and bright lipstick at the same time. The best beauty tip l’ve learnt on set is: Making sure moisturiser is applied before the makeup is piled on. The Italian climate is perfect for: Eating outside. My favourite beauty eras are: The Fifties, Sixties and Seventies.

My morning routine consists of: Getting my daughters out of bed, making them breakfast and getting them ready for school. I don’t have the time to put on makeup until later in the day, or l wait until l get on set.

I prepare my skin for a photo shoot by: Drinking lots of flat mineral water beforehand.

My beauty icons are: Claudia Cardinale, Anna Magnani, Sofia Loren, Gina Lollobrigida, Silvana and Mangano.

My hair is best: When it’s long and straight.

The secret l will pass down to my children: To cultivate a passion in life. My off duty look is: A bit of mascara and some gloss.

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Bespoke Beginnings MOJEH talks to Sylvaine Delacourte, Guerlain’s fragrance evaluation and development manager, who heads a service perfect for any newlyweds looking for that special something.

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Sylvaine Delacourte

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ix months in the making and exclusive solely to you and your family, the bespoke perfume service from Guerlain is a one-of-a-kind experience that will see you walk away with a scent tailor-made to you and your senses. Headed by Sylvaine Delacourte, who has been with the company a total of 20 years and has created over 80 scents for the brand, the process is personal, psychological and, as she says, ‘straight to the point.’ Developed to be your ‘perfume for life’ it is a service that couples are renowned for engaging with, try as they might to create a scent that is unique to them and them alone. ‘I have recently created a unisex perfume for a couple in Canada,’ elaborates Sylvaine. ‘This couple wanted to celebrate their love and seal their engagement.’ Taking part in a two-hour consultation that sees your memories, tastes and life analysed for clues the three to six month process, including myriad allergy tests, results in two sacred litres of the discovered aroma. Bottled and sealed the recipe is protected – only re-created should you yourself ask for it. As for this couple, ‘the perfume was a result of the raw materials and smells that they both loved and was named after their 10 year old family.’ A perfect and unique tribute to a life built together. With celebrity clients including the likes of the Prince of Qatar, and an average of 10 bespoke perfumes made each year, Guerlain knows that when it comes to your fragrance, no expense should be spared and the more exclusive you can make it, the better.


Exclusive

Mojeh

Bottled and sealed the recipe is protected – only re-created should you yourself ask for it.

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Beauty Recently engaged and hitting our movie screens with vigour, Olivia Wilde, once an extra in the acting world, is finally coming to the fore. Her enchanting cat-like eyes dazzle the most unsuspecting of people leaving her look preened but bewitching. With acting credentials that range from House to Tron as well as the upcoming Better Living Through Chemistry, Wilde is a force to be reckoned with. Here, MOJEH charts the rise of the blond to brunette beauty, showcasing her simple yet pristine facade and demonstrating that a little eyeliner can go a long way.

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A strong and trend-setting look from Olivia. Fringes aren’t for everyone but this full-bodied style combined with poker straight hair perfectly frames her features.

1. DIOR, Diorshow Artpen | 2. GUERLAIN, Parure de Lumière | 3. CLARINS, Rouge Eclat in Juicy Clementine | 4. BOBBI BROWN, Lilac Rose Eye Palette | 5. BUMBLE AND BUMBLE, Bb Texture | 6. CLINIQUE, Blushing Blush in Pink Love

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Olivia’s natural blond colour is rarely on show and this tousled crop, paired with a shimmering silver eye and lashings of black, harks back to the actress’s earlier days in the industry.

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Unblemished, smooth and perfectly contoured Olivia’s skin is only ever enhanced by a smattering of light rouge that brings the apples of her cheeks to the fore.

From top to bottom, left to right images courtesy of: Jason Merritt/Staff, Ian Gavan/Stringer, Jason Merritt/Staff, Craig Barritt/Stringer, Stephen Lovekin/Staff, Jamie McCarthy/Staff, Jason Merritt/Staff. All Getty.

Evolution

The Beauty

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Evolution

The Beauty 2

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A jubilant pop of colour on the lips in a fiery red; an area where the actress usually prefers to tread the nude and neutral path.

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Pulled high and messy a quick topknot is a go-to look for Wilde. With extra texture and flyaways it adds an edge to her fresh and clean aesthetic.

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Sleek and slick - minimal makeup in the form of mascara and lip sheen compliment a tight, low-slung pony. A restrained but just as stunning a look from Wilde.

The actress’s most recent look; it’s those famous eyes that will keep drawing us in. Rimmed in thick black pigment and a subtle mauve, they are without doubt Wilde’s standout feature and she certainly makes the most of them.

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1 Start the day by drinking fresh lemon juice squeezed into a glass of warm water to kick start your metabolism. Cut down on all dairy and red meat and increase your intake of green vegetables and fruit with low-acidity.

Under the Veil:

10 Steps to Perfect Skin Flawless, fresh and youthful looking skin is a must on your big day and brides will go to endless lengths to achieve that coveted all natural glow. To aid you in your skincare workout MOJEH spoke to London based facialist Rani Mirza, whose client list includes Naomi Campbell and Anna Friel to name but a few. Consider these 10 simple steps to eradicate the risk of looking anything less than perfect.

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Book yourself into a salon for body wraps to get rid of any toxins, cellulite and fluid retention. Also a good excuse for a pre-wedding pamper.

Always massage your cleanser in with slow circular movements and then apply your moisturiser with upward and outwards strokes using your fingertips. Finally, your eye contour formula should be patted on gently thus stimulating the blood circulation to aid in removing toxins and puffiness.

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Visit a good facialist who will recommend the best routine for your skin type in order to achieve that ‘glow’. Steer clear from any extreme procedures that could cause a reaction to your skin.

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Avoid any harsh products and instead look to salons and beauty lines with natural ingredients, free from chemicals.


After making any alterations to your diet and skin regime, your skin may become oily or blemished. Take the juice of half a lemon and add to 500ml boiling water. Leave to cool for a few minutes and then rinse your skin with it after you’ve cleansed. Try this two to three times a week before going to bed.

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8 Cardiovascular exercise will speed up your metabolism, increase your blood circulation, bring an increased supply of oxygen to your skin and improve the lymphatic system’s function. This in turn will help remove toxins from your system.

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My Red Carpet facial followed by the CryoDerm treatment is a must for many of my celebrity clients before any big event. The benefits of these treatments used together will ensure that the bride’s skin is glowing for her big day.

Avoid caffeine, especially in the evenings. Relax and read a book, listen to music or soak in a bath with essential oils. To clear your thoughts and ease any stress, go for a walk before you retire to bed.

You should be working an exfoliation into your morning routine by now, be it with a loofah, salt scrub or dry skin brushing. I would highly recommend the French range Yon-Ka, which is based on essential oils and fruit extracts. The American brand Image is another great line worth trying.

1. SISLEY, Botanica D-Tox, detoxifying night treatment | 2. YON-KA, Masque 103 | 3. AESOP, Parsley Seed Anti-Oxidant Facial Treatment | 4. IMAGE SKINCARE, Vital C, Hydrating Facial Cleanser | 6. CLARINS, Double Serum | 9. NATURA BISSE, Diamond Infusion

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In Residence

Artist

The Art of Collaboration ‘I like graffiti because it brings art to everyone. I like the fact of democratising art. I hope it will inspire other people to do crazy projects and not to be scared,’ eL Seed, artist. by Jareh Das

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In Residence

Artist Louis Vuitton and eL Seed scarf

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eL Seed

ollaborative practice allows multiple voices to manifest and rethink the ways in which we all experience and engage with art. It’s not uncommon to find fashion houses and luxury brands collaborating with artists, as this leads to a new division of works and allows onlookers to experience art outside of its traditional context. Consequently we see new and diverse audiences watching as fashion houses and their artists take us into a new genre of art. Parisian brand Louis Vuitton’s longstanding commitment to collaborative artistic practices stems from its commitment to craftsmanship, with its iconic trunks and scarves standing tall at the centre. The brand has collaborated with art-world stars such as Farhad Moshiri and Stephen Sprouse in recent years, with reinterpretations of the LV logo, bags and their flagship store windows each playing with their visual identity. Entering into the second stage of their Foulards d’Artistes project – which has seen personalities from the street art movement breath new life into the house’s emblematic scarves, such as AIKO, RETNA and Os Gemeos – Tunisian artist eL Seed takes the reigns. This commitment showcases the fashion brand’s

dedication to exploring unchartered territories and creating new platforms for the art world. In the United Arab Emirates, LV explores this growing relationship with its most recent offering from the urban graffiti artist eL Seed (or ‘calligraffiti’ as it’s preferably known as) in collaboration with the START foundation and Tashkeel. The partnering also sees Louis Vuitton working with a regional artist for the first time. Alongside eL Seed, all three organisations – the charity, the art institute and the luxury fashion house – share a passion for fostering emerging talent and bringing more diverse groups of people together. The visual result? A re-interpretation of the brand’s classic scarf on which eL Seed recounts an Arabic poem. ‘I’m proud to put an Arabic script on this scarf and happy that Louis Vuitton welcomed this concept and gave me carte blanche. When I was approached by Louis Vuitton, I found the proposal really interesting – it’s a high-class make wanting to bring the spirit of the streets into a luxury brand,’ explains eL Seed. Tashkeel, the UAE’s hub for the creatively minded, founded by HRH Sheika Lateefa Bint Maktoum, will host eL Seed in its 2013 Annual Resident Artist Programme, offering him

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In Residence

Artist

Louis Vuitton and eL Seed Alzer luggage

a second platform, next to that of Louis Vuitton’s, to express his dialect to the region. The residency is a result of an on-going conversation between the artist and Tashkeel over recent years, whereby a shared ethos has been formed when it comes to extending art practices outside the traditional white cube and offering diverse projects to a wider community. In a recent press call Sheika Lateefa expressed the need for ‘art to be less closed up and more inclusive.’ She feels this is where the work of the artist and LV meet, creating windows of opportunity and alternative platforms for experiencing art. Louis Vuitton has led the industry with this idea for many years, continuously nurturing the bond between craftsmanship and design. Artists such as Yayoi Kusama, Takashi Murakami and Richard Prince have all collaborated with the house under varying projects, with this latest partnership taking particular precedence in our region. As a second offering to the re-imagined scarf, eL Seed used his urban art to decorate the iconic Louis Vuitton Alzer luggage – later to be auctioned for START – and then custom created a window installation in the Mall of Emirates store, Dubai, using the three suitcases. ‘It’s a momentous day when we can unveil to our clients what is both a unique and beautiful product created by a regional

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artist for the first time in history,’ said Francois Pedrol, General Manager of Louis Vuitton Middle East. ‘Not only that, but in the style of Arabic calligraphy meets urban art of eL Seed, which is both a fitting tribute to the Middle East, but also creatively poetic on many levels when one reads into the historical references. With the added window installation, we can not only share this evocative art form of urban calligraphy, but also give back once again to the people of the UAE who have embraced regional and Arab contemporary art and taken it to new heights.’ Why eL Seed in particular? ‘Calligraffiti was born out of a quest for a search for identity, it’s a fusion of calligraphy and graffiti and a term I use to describe the bringing together of the Arabic script with the language of the street,’ said the artist. The form used is based on the Islamic calligraphy associated with geometric Islamic art, commonly found on walls and ceilings of mosques. Here, eL Seed reinterprets this historic art form for a contemporary audience by drawing on its heritage but delivering it through the street art movement of graffiti. eL Seed arrived at this visual language whilst learning Arabic in his teens after renewing an interest in his heritage as an Arab born and raised in the suburbs of Paris, explaining it as ‘seeking to find his roots


In Residence

Artist Louis Vuitton store window by eL Seed, Mall of Emirates, Dubai

through learning the technique of the art of Arabic script-writing and fusing this with the language of street graffiti.’ He is a self-taught artist with a personal drive and desire for uniting people. Scale and context play a significant part, as his works adorn walls and building in cities across the globe, continually developing socially engaged practices that transcend cultural and religious boundaries. This idea has led him to work with communities in the slums of Cape Town along with creating monumental murals in cities such as Doha, Sharjah, Paris, Los Angeles and London. His most ambitious piece stands tall on the Jara Mosque in Tunisia measuring 10 by 47 metres. eL Seed engages with the past in order to look to a more prosperous future where cultures are unified. Using this ethos as a point of departure, for his Louis Vuitton scarf he looked back at the values of 12th century Venetian society where tolerance and unification were promoted through the continuation of trade links between port city and the Middle East. He inscribes the poem Venetian Carnival by Taha Mohammad Ali – praising Venice for its beauty and elegance – across the limited edition scarves. By using the versus of this poem in the calligraffiti style, eL Seed is visually uniting the luxurious with the street, akin to how Christian society in Venetian’s

port city united itself with the Islamic world. In the example of the collaboration between eL Seed, Louis Vuitton, Tashkeel and START, we’re witnessing the fusion of different commerce both in terms of the principles and people they represent, and the traditional mediums in which they would normally converse with them in. The debate surrounding artistic collaborations focuses on the importance of reaching out to different audiences and bringing artists, institutions and brands together in a display that sees no geographical or cultural boundaries. The revisiting of history through art – embodied within the luxury scarves, trunks and window installations that marry luxury emblems with street culture – creates a raw energy that has undoubtedly created new dialogues for a new generation. eL Seed is the current recipient of Tashkeel’s 2013 Guest Artist Annual Programme. He will explore and contribute to a number of activities within Tashkeel, including studio workshops, kids and teens’ after-school initiative as well as the Saturday Art Club programme and will visit schools in the UAE as part of Tashkeel’s educational development program. For more information visit guestartist. tashkeel.org

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in Exhibition

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Impressionably Modern It goes without saying that we are far from the generation that invented fashion. Before runways, supermodels and even Iris Apfel – but after crinolines and Beau Brummell - were the Impressionists. Exploring the crossroad period between the 1860s and 1880s, Impressionism, Fashion and Modernity at The Art Institute of Chicago, examines how they used fashion in their work to communicate notions of innovation and appealed to the burgeoning interest in, and accessibility to, all things mode. The era that saw the rise of the department store and the spread of the fashion magazine, the exhibit uses figure painting, costumes and photography to unpick how fashion conveyed new concepts and was channeled as a means of creative expression. 26th June to 22nd September 2013, Impressionism, Fashion and Modernity, Art Institute of Chicago, Chicago

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Jean Béraud, A Ball, 1878, Musée d’Orsay, Paris


in Exhibition

Artist

When a Manet Loves A Woman In a landmark exhibition at Doge’s Palace, Manet: Return To Venice sees two masterpieces meet, Manet’s Olympia and Titian’s Venus of Urbino, and the first journey of the seminal Olympia outside of Paris since 1890. With Manet drawing inspiration from the reclining Venus for his own creation, spectators will now be able to directly compare the two greats, as one masterwork comes face to face with its progeny. Featuring 80 pieces, from grand paintings to intimate documents, the exhibit will also be a truly insightful look at an artist whose ties to Italy and Venice speak loudly through his oeuvre – presented here as a carefully curated nucleus of key pieces. 24th April to 18th August, Manet: Return to Venice, Doge’s Palace, Venice Édouard Manet,
Il Balcone, 1868-1869, Courtesy Musée d’Orsay, Paris

Does Size Matter? As the old adage goes, less is more. Petite, bijou or scintillatingly small, the one common denominator of the Hidden Beauty exhibit at the Museo del Prado is the diminutive size of its pieces. Spanning the 14th to 19th centuries - by way of landscapes, scenes from portable altarpieces and mythological paintings that adorned Italian wedding chests – the collection is a complex mix of styles and form. Featuring pieces from the likes of Rubens and Goya, the exhibit offers a sweeping insight into the narrative of art history, from the rise in popularity of landscapes to the 17th century taste for portraiture. Despite featuring over 250 works, it is advisable to pay attention - after all, blink and you’ve missed a masterpiece. 21st May to 10th November 2013, Hidden Beauty, Museo Nacional del Prado, Madrid Andrea del Sarto, Saint John The Baptist With The Lamb, 16th Century, Museo Nacional del Prado, Madrid

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Talking

Weddings and Couture:

A Match Made In Heaven Couture may be the pinnacle of luxury but MOJEH explores why it is ultimately the industry built on love and how Middle Eastern women are keeping timeless glamour alive for the fashionistas of the world.

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hen it comes to the Big Day, in the Middle East there are few half measures. What would be a gentle two-day affair in Scandinavia - a region famed for its clean simplicity - or even an afternoon service and yellow cab to dinner for fast paced New Yorkers, is here laid across the entire week like a crisp white sheet on an extended banquet table. A sense of scale and fanfare come hand in hand with nuptials. It’s as much an ode to tradition as a contemporary desire to turn a life changing moment into a grand social event. Maximal trumps minimal. Not just about magnitude of course, but grandeur. In a part of the world synonymous with supercars and shopping malls, tying the knot means opting for the best and, with the stage set, who wants to skimp on costumes? It’s estimated that women in the Middle East will attend a suitably impressive 15 to 20 weddings a year. The phrase ‘all dressed up and nowhere to go’ is as likely to be uttered by an Arab woman as a recently purchased pot plant and in terms of looks, repeat performances are certainly not on the playbill. For a woman of style with an overflowing social schedule, or even that large red cross by the words ‘wedding day’, couture is now de rigueur for both

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bride and guest as ‘buy bespoke’ have seemingly become the most popular two words after ‘I do’. ‘Marriage is an important institution in our societies,’ explains couturier Zuhair Murad, ‘and inviting everyone to witness this commitment encourages Middle Eastern men and women to put an emphasis on big weddings and all of the ceremonies that go with it. These traditions mean that couture dresses are not only for the bride, but the entire family who want to look unique on that special day.’ As a brand with global appeal, and as a regular fixture on the international red carpet, Zuhair Murad understands that in the Middle East a show stopping wedding demands all of the drama of a blockbuster. ‘The general context of the region where people celebrate often and organise huge parties means women want a one-off. Middle Eastern women tend to be very sophisticated and elegant; they love glamour, seduction and luxury and like to be distinguished from the others,’ says the couturier. ‘They are always on the lookout for anything new in fashion and they want singular gowns for their occasions. This is what couture offers them.’ There’s a certain whimsy that - on an occasion based on the coming together of two people - when it comes to style, there’s nothing more crucial than standing apart. Middle Eastern women understand luxury in its most visual sense. Previously a region where dress was grounded in tradition and a reverence to antiquity, today prestige labels vie for attention on billboards and the Arab debutante emerges into society with a fully formed education in Euro-fash brands and their assorted wares. The marble floors of the private sixth floor salon of Versace’s Fifth Avenue flagship or the Via Gesù pad in Milan, where valued couture clients are invited, are as likely to feel the caress of a billowing abaya as the clipped steps of European royalty. So whilst individuality sits high on the agenda, it is not at the expense of fashion kudos. Not that expense in the traditional sense factors significantly into the decision making process. Naturally there’s no point in putting a gloss on the simple fact that, as a whole, the world is still in the steely grip of financial uncertainty and couture is an expensive habit. It would be nice to think that the sordid topic of coin plays no part in this romantic

The Season of Grandeur, photographed by Federico de Angelis, MOJEH issue 11


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yarn but with dresses that can reach prices in the hundreds of thousands (AED) and even millions for haute couture bridal gowns, it is partly the style elite of the Middle East who are not just indulging their appetite for fashion finery, but keeping the already loss-leading industry afloat. Joan DeJean, author of The Essence of Style, once estimated there were no more than 100 true couture buyers globally whilst a more recent estimate by Nicholas Coleridge, author of The Fashion Conspiracy, says that while the number of buyers is in the thousands, the haute couture industry – the regulated upper echelon of couture – would collapse without the custom of perhaps 30 well-heeled, and presumably well-gowned, women. Stack these figures beside a 2012 report by Deloitte which states that a third of the world’s Haute Couture business stems from the Middle East and it’s clear why the region is playing such an integral role in an industry previously the preserve of European queens. Middle Eastern weddings are to couture what Valentine’s is to red roses and Love Hearts. Although a burgeoning market, it is now widely accepted that Arab women aren’t just big buyers for the big day, but the biggest buyers - even if they’re simply along to savour the canapés and toss the confetti. Speaking to news agency Reuters on the subject Simon Lock, creative director of Dubai Fashion Week, explained how at a recent wedding in the city, ‘4000 women were invited to the reception and everyone in the room was wearing haute couture.’ In his experience some Arab women will in a single sitting, ‘buy maybe 20 or 30 couture outfits for a season.’ An efficient strategy for women for which shopping is a sport and in a region where party season lasts 12 months. Marc Jacobs famously said, ‘I think there is something about luxury, it’s not something that people need, but it’s what they want. It pulls at their heart.’ And therein lies the real crux of the relationship with couture - it is in itself a love affair and the most fitting of apparel for the most romantic of occasions. In its myriad forms it could be argued that couture represents the most authentic form of fashion. In its personalised approach and onus on uniqueness, it affords the wearer a VIP pass to the land of fashion fantasy – a few kilometres beyond ready-to-wear and a veritable continent hop from diffusion. When a wedding

The Season of Grandeur, photographed by Federico de Angelis, MOJEH issue 11

The couture industry now thrives on partnerships forged under the desert sun. From brides who want their day to be the most personal it can be, to guests with a penchant for glamour and a sense of occasion.

rolls around only the legal teams – who invariably weren’t invited – spend much time contemplating the paperwork. For even the iciest of heart, it is a day wrapped in age-old ideas of romance and the perception of a fruitful future – and fantasy occasions need fantasy dress. ‘We do not shop for a couture dress, we acquire it,’ explains Murad. ‘Couture has a world of its own where every designer expresses his state of mind through the general architecture of his premises, decoration, ambiance and the quality of his service. The atmosphere is magical and clients are indulged and pampered. They come not only to buy a dress, but for the whole atmosphere of luxury where each of them gets special treatment.’ It seems that for the Middle East, couture is the paint and weddings the canvas or perhaps more accurately, if couture is the plumage of a peacock’s tail then weddings serve as a vivid stretch of green on which to strut – a platform where all of the glamour, exclusivity and individuality of the world’s most desirable gowns plays out in celebration, not of vanity, but love, commitment and institution. From the runways of Paris, where bold creations are revealed to the world under the glare of the spotlight and pop of the flash bulb, it seems a long leap to exchanging rings on the Arabian Peninsula. Yet the couture industry now thrives on partnerships forged under the desert sun. From brides who want their day to be the most personal it can be, to guests with a penchant for glamour and a sense of occasion, the region’s combination of social frequency and financial prosperity are keeping the couture fantasy alive for brides, guests and fashionistas the world over. It really is for this reason why the partnership between bridal and couture equals the perfect marriage.

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Life

The Bigger Picture She’s more than just the model rock-star wife. Iman is a makeup mogul, a mother of two and a woman on a mission.

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here’s a purpose to Iman’s stride as she makes her way across the hotel lobby. She’s finished her shoot two hours early, checked in with her daughter who’s just completed a school test, dropped by the office of her $25m cosmetics company and met with the alliance presenting her with the WIE Icon award. Need we mention that the Women’s Inspiration and Enterprise group tried awarding her three years ago, but she was too busy fundraising for the famine in her homeland Somalia? With almost 40 years of career behind her, Iman is more than grateful for the recognition, but still, she does not talk like a woman who is done. In fact, she thumps the table several times during our conversation, causing her glass of water to take precarious leaps towards the edge. Among her issues: the glamorisation of celebrities behaving badly; the strict discipline required to police her 12-year-old daughter; and the importance of educating women about freezing their eggs. We are in New York’s Mercer hotel, just across the street from the apartment she shares with her husband, David Bowie. She insists the couple live a quiet, metropolitan life now -school runs, trips to museums, restaurants, date nights - and rarely give interviews, but with the release of his album The Next Day, and the V&A exhibition, David Bowie Is, there is much speculation as to whether the Bowies will even be in London to see the show. ‘I’m in the dark, like all of you,’ she laughs. ‘I’m sure we will. But we won’t leave town while school is open, so I don’t know when we will make it. We’re parents first.’ Lexi - to whom Iman gave birth at 45 after going through IVF treatment - is absolutely the priority, (she breaks off to phone her about the school test.) Iman has a rule never to be away from home for longer than a day and a half, but this may be as much for her husband’s benefit — the couple have one of

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the most romantic marriages in showbiz. Iman had been married twice before, Bowie once, but this time it seems everything is right. ‘I have to say, I’m really lucky: I found my soul mate,’ she says. ‘I had no intention of gettingmarried again, ever. And to somebody in music? Never. Like a hole in the head. But as I’ve always said, I’m not married to David Bowie, I’m married to David Jones.’ They met in 1990, when their mutual hairdresser invited them to dinner, and were married in a civil ceremony in Switzerland two years later. Their very first date was on the 14th of the month, and even now, 20 years later, he sends her flowers on the 14th of every month. ‘I pretend each time, who is this? A secret admirer?’ she laughs, ‘he’ll mix it up — sometimes he’ll bring them home, to the office, or if I’m travelling he’ll send them to the hotel.’ So there we go: David Bowie, a hopeless romantic. But then so is she. As she talks about how they sustain the romance her face softens and she lets out the first of many deep, throaty laughs. ‘First, you are attracted to each other - that doesn’t go. It might take different forms, but he’s good company. He’s funny, he’s engaging, he’s whip-smart and he’s interested in different ways. It keeps on evolving and never stays sedentary.’ They chose to settle in New York and subsequently spend a lot of time here: ‘We have dates you know - we’ll go to a museum and then we’ll have a long lunch. That’s what’s interesting, that’s what keeps it exciting.’ They are a pretty intoxicating couple. When Iman was honoured as an icon by the Council of Fashion Designers of America three years ago, she quipped: ‘I finally have the right to say to my husband, ‘Move over! You’re not the only icon in the house’.’ The night of the ceremony coincided with their wedding anniversary, and even though she felt the award was ‘the nicest thing that ever happened to me’, she didn’t stay on for the parties and instead left to have dinner with her husband. WIE, an alliance set up by Sarah Brown, Arianna Huffington and Donna Karan, has now added to her trophy shelf. ‘There are awards by the dozen nowadays. You turn around, there’s a red carpet. Arianna said, ‘I want you to be part of this’, and she’s such an inspiration.’ Their conferences, designed to empower and connect women all over the world, have attracted speakers including Melinda Gates, Tamara Mellon, Nancy Pelosi and Martha Lane Fox. This sort of high-powered network suits Iman perfectly - she may have made her name as one of the first global black super-models, but she was originally a politics student. The daughter of an ambassador, she was studying political science at university in Nairobi when the photographer Peter Beard spotted her. ‘I’m the kind of girl who’s the first online at 5.30am come election day. I come from a place where you didn’t even have the right to vote. So when you get it, you had better exercise it.’


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‘It doesn’t matter if the whole world tells you you’re beautiful, what stays with you is what you know and feel.’

She recently co-authored a piece with her elder daughter, Zulekha Haywood, about the importance of women’s choices and the lack of education in women’s health. ‘Zulekha is 34 and she wants to freeze her eggs because she doesn’t have a partner, but I wish somebody had told me that there was that option when I was young,’ she says. ‘They’ve spent so much money on research for men, but its unmatched for women. How many females know you can freeze your eggs in your twenties and use them in your forties? Not that many.’ At this point, it’s worth saying that it’s almost impossible to believe she has a daughter in her thirties - she looks no older herself. ‘Genes!’ she insists. ‘My dad’s 80, he looks 40.’ So, no work? ‘Not yet, but never say never.’ Her secret? ‘You need 5lb more weight after you hit 40. What I see in the western world now is mature women who want to have good bodies, not an ounce of fat, which plays havoc with your face as you get older. This type of body might look tight and trim, but the face will look older.’ The payback for her however is the weight. ‘The older I get, the harder it is to get rid of. It’s scary how it doesn’t move. Before, I put on 1lb, I exercise, gone. Now, nothing happens.’ Still, I guess you can live with that when you are one of the most beautiful women in the world. Iman shakes her head. ‘I have always suffered from low self-esteem, especially when I was growing up. I was an ugly duckling, I was not considered beautiful in my country. I have never in my life thought I was beautiful, and it took me well into my thirties to accept myself. I still have days when I’ll say, ‘Yeah, well, I’m not beautiful, but I’ve got other things going for me’.’ It might sound disingenuous for Iman to be professing insecurities about her appearance, but you often find that women whose careers and identities are tied up with their looks feel deeply inadequate. ‘You end up in the business and you think, ‘Oh, okay, I am beautiful.’ Then in walks Linda Evangelista!’ She laughs. ‘It’s a business that wants you to start young when you’re at your most vulnerable, and then it’ll eat away at your self-esteem. It doesn’t matter if the whole world tells you you’re beautiful, what stays with you is what you know and feel.’ When she was seven Iman’s mother sent her away

to boarding school while her older brothers and younger sister remained at home. ‘I felt like I was not loved and that always made me feel insecure.’ It toughened her up however, ‘I learnt I could take care of myself. I was bullied, I took care of it. That ability never left me.’ Further dents to her selfesteem came during her teenage years. ‘We had a military regime take over in Somalia in 1969 and my father was an ambassador at the time. There was a Russian military base with lots of Russian teachers who built an incredible academy and found the best students in Somalia to place in it. Four hundred and fifty students were accepted, 32 were girls, and I was one of them.’ Pretty esteem boosting? ‘When it came to the end of school, there was a big dance. With 32 girls, they had plenty of boys to choose from, but I had nothing. Nada. Not one. I found out years later my father paid one of my cousins at the school to take me.’ Two years later, at the age of 17, it all changed. Iman fell in love and got married. ‘My parents were totally against it and I realised in the first week that it wasn’t right.’ By this point however her family were living in Kenya, so to support herself through university Iman - who speaks five languages - took a job in tourism. It was here that the life-changing encounter with photographer Peter Beard happened and Iman was on a plane to America. How do her experiences affect the way she raises her own daughters? ‘In spite of me, my eldest Zulehka has come out to be the most sane, smart young girl ever. I say in spite of me because I was only 22 when I had her.’ Her father was Iman’s second husband, baseball star Spencer Haywood. They divorced nine years later and Iman raised Zulehka on her own. She then had her second daughter Lexi at 45. ‘Society had changed majorly. Now women are bombarded with images of perfection. You compare and compare again - there’s always someone who’s skinnier, prettier, smarter than you. So don’t compare.’ After two children, the temptation was even more so for Iman. When asked if she’s a strict mum, the answer is a straight up yes, ‘and there are no two ways about it.’ What must Lexi make of Iman and David’s childhoods, caught up in the hedonistic worlds of modelling and music? ‘She doesn’t know it yet. There are no pictures of me in working mode at home, because home is home. For a long time she didn’t even know I was a model, just that I had a cosmetics company. It’s the same with her father. When we walk outside she sees how people react, but at home he’s just dad to her,’ she explains. ‘But nobody has lied about their past. It’s an open book: if Lexi wants to discuss it, it will be discussed. When she first saw a picture of her father wearing red hair and make-up, she didn’t comment on the make-up, she just said, ‘You have red hair!’ When the time comes, we’ll tell her everything.’ As the world gears up for more Bowie mania, that time may not be too far away.

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Bookshelf

Read it, and Weep Having a good cry is what life’s all about, and any budding romantic knows only too well that an epic love story penned even more lovingly by its creator, is as good a chance as any for that tissue box moment. Take a look at this selection of romantic lines pulled from some of our favourite classic page-turners, and prepare yourself for a season of tear-jerking joyfulness.

Doctor Zhivago By Boris Pasternak

Vintage Publishing, Out Now

‘You and I, it’s as though we have been taught to kiss in heaven and sent down to earth together, to see if we know what we were taught.’

Captain Corelli’s Mandolin Vintage Publishing, Out Now

By Louis de Bernières.

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‘When you fall in love, it is a temporary madness. It erupts like an earthquake, and then it subsides. And when it subsides, you have to make a decision. You have to work out whether your roots have become so entwined together that it is inconceivable that you should ever part.’


Bookshelf

The

The English Patient Vintage Publishing Group, Out Now

By Michael Ondaatje ‘Her life with others no longer interests him. He wants only her stalking beauty, her theatre of expressions. He wants the minute secret reflection between them, the depth of field minimal, their foreignness intimate like two pages of a closed book.’

Atonement By Ian McEwan

Anchor, Out Now

‘I’ve never had a moment’s doubt. I love you. I believe in you completely. You are my dearest one. My reason for life.’

Never Let Me Go ‘And so we stood together like that, at the top of that field for what seemed like ages, not saying anything, just holding each other, while the wind kept blowing and blowing at us, tugging our clothes, and for a moment, it seemed like we were holding onto each other because that was the only way to stop us from being swept away into the night.’

Faber and Faber, Out Now

By Kazuo Ishiguro

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