ISSUE 51

6 297000 384009

AED 40 / USD 11

OCTOBER 2017

Sartorial Stand

N°51

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14 Chairman SHAHAB IZADPANAH

EDITORIAL

PUBLISHING

Editor in Chief MOJEH IZADPANAH

Managing Director IVAN DONCIC

Managing Editor KELLY BALDWIN

Sales Director NADINE CHEHABEDDINE

Senior Fashion Writer MARY KEENAN

Senior Publishing Executive DESIREE LABANDA-GAVERIA

Lifestyle Writers LAURA BEANEY ANNIE DARLING

Junior Publishing Assistant KISADA HURIN Paris Representative GHISLAIN DE CASTELBAJAC

Senior Editorial Assistant SOPHIE PASZTOR

Advertising Inquiries Tel: +971 4 553 90 49 Email: advertising@mojeh.com

Guest Fashion Stylists STACEY CUNNINGHAM INA LEKIEWICZ

ART

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Production and Creative Direction MOJEH MAGAZINE

Online Division ALI ROMAN

Art Director AMIRREZA AMIRASLANI

LOUIS FOURTEEN FOR MOJEH

Graphic Designer BALAJI MAHENDRAN

Concierge Service Management DAISY MARCHANT

Contributing Photographers JESSE LAITINEN RIO-ROMAINE MARKUS LAMBERT RAPHAËL DELORME RUI FARIA DANILO HESS

Published under HS Media Group FZ LLC Registered at Dubai Design District Building No. 8, Offices 212 P.O.Box 502333, Dubai, UAE.

Cover photographed by Rui Faria, model wears Dior Jewellery

WWW.MOJEH.COM Louis Fourteen for MOJEH Follow us on Twitter @MOJEH_Magazine MOJEH Swiss Representative Office: Rue de Rive 4, 1204 Geneva, Switzerland Average qualified circulation (January-June 2016): 12,275 copies.

For the UAE printed by Emirates Printing Press LLC. Distribution- UAE: Al Nisr Distribution LLC. Bahrain: Jashanmal & Sons BSC (C). Oman: United Media Services LLC. Lebanon: Messageries Du Moyen-Orient The publishers regret that they cannot accept liability for error or omissions contained in this publication, however caused. The opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessary those of the publishers. Readers are advised to seek specialist advice before acting on information contained in this publication which is provided for general use and may not be appropriate for the readers particular circumstances. The ownership of trademark is acknowledged, therefore reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. All credits are subjects to change. Copyright HS MEDIA GROUP FZ LLC 2011

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M O J EH C O NTENT S

FASHION & TRENDS 50. STYLE From Scandinavia’s superior sartorial offerings to the style breakdown from the autumn/winter shows, MOJEH marks out its edit of the season’s pivotal trends.

100. COPY CATS As imitation, subversion, and all-out logomania dominate our style aspirations, we discover how fashion learnt to embrace its bootleggers.

106. ALL ROADS LEAD TO OUTER SPACE Lifting off with the Sixties’ Space Race that’s populated the catwalks ever since, MOJEH explores fashion’s love affair with the future.

PHOTOSHOOTS 38. THE HIGH SHINE EDIT

124. LOST IN TRANSLATION

It’s time to re-learn and refine the sartorial rule book.

High-shine elements are brought down to earth

From accessories clamped over cuffs to billowing

with fine and feminine florals for eveningwear.

blouses pinned in by basques, this season’s high

Give grown-up gowns a contemporary twist with

points are appreciated in the execution.

unexpected footwear.

114. FIELDS OF FALL

154. VELOCITY OF LIGHT

Transitioning from day-to-night, tweed receives a

Precious pieces share craftsmanship so expertly

futuristic reworking this season while knits enter

executed they exude an otherworldly quality. Choose

into a new-era with glistening, high-shine footwear

kaleidoscopic stones and shining facades to illuminate

and thigh-skimming hemlines.

pared-back wardrobe choices.

18 MOJEH FEATURES 32. THE PURSUIT OF HAPPINESS Humanity’s obsession with the formula for happiness is unwavering, but can material wealth, objects, and experiences ever offer us internal fulfillment?

194. A HIGHER STATE From physical duress to creative stagnation, the cluttered mind comes with its own set of problems.

MOJEH considers the payback of time spent alone with tutored thoughts.

218. THIRD CULTURE KIDS A new-gen mix that offers scope for enhanced social understanding, what happens when you’re raised in an ever-shifting environment in which travel is home?

MOJEH investigates.

HEALTH & BEAUTY 185. PASS ME THE KIMCHI

202. WHAT MEN WANT

Cure or craze? Peddled as a long-term fix for

A place of paradox, MOJEH shines a spotlight

everything from mood swings to food intolerances,

upon the vast gender inequality that continues

fermented foods have recently been propelled to

to populate the top-tier positions at multibillion-

new health heights.

dollar beauty companies.

198. ABSTINENCE AND ABUNDANCE

204. FIVE FENTY BEAUTY INSIGHTS

Proposing benefits that range from enhanced

Promising shades for all, as the highly anticipated

mental clarity to age reversal, MOJEH makes sense

Fenty Beauty hits the shelves MOJEH catches up

of the centuries-old practice that’s now sweeping

with Rihanna to discover more about her brand’s

the Silicon Valley – intermittent fasting.

all-encompassing appeal.

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E D I T O R ’S L ETTE R

Photographed by Rui Faria

INTROSPECTIVE EDIT Stirring our sartorial senses after what felt like an endless summer, the fashion weeks have given us a healthy appetite for wardrobe updates, and in the October issue we dissect and decode them. Navy is the hue of now, but what are the key pieces and how do we wear them? What elements of spring/summer can we take on-board and which pieces can we transition from the season before? Our trend reportage offers a visual tour between the standout solutions.

In All Roads Lead to Outer Space, we reinforce the social significance behind futuristic dress codes championed by the likes of Chanel and J.W. Anderson, while Copy Cats shines a spotlight on our current fixation with bootlegged branding and larger-than-life logos. These days everything about fashion is politicised, so it’s not merely a matter of dressing to our whims. High jewellery continues to hit a high note with precious pieces becoming daytime staples, increasingly worn in fresh and compelling ways, with Bulgari’s gilded garden rings that are stacked and worn in quantities. Timepieces take a turn towards kaleidoscopic colour-codes, but amid the household names, there’s an undercurrent of burgeoning local talent. In this issue we celebrate jewellery’s up-and-coming names that are rising rapidly from the Middle East.

October signals our entrance into the season of creativity and culture. As the calendar amps up with Abu Dhabi Art, Dubai Design Week and with the opening of the Louvre on the horizon, we invite renowned artist Mohamed Abla to recount his rise to fame via The Silk Road, and impeccably stylish collector, Doha Challah, to share her industry insight.

This issue is about making sense of the myriad offerings we’re presented with. As we seek to personalise both fashion and health practices, our beauty features hone in on topics like fasting – designed to enhance both body and mind – as well as millennials, who are perhaps wrongly branded as generation ‘me, me, me’, while Pursuit of Happiness questions our very approach to purchasing. From happiness to style, there’s something to be said for the millennial aptitude for self-centric behaviour, and our October issue encourages you to channel just a little bit of that.

Follow me on Twitter and Instagram @Mojeh_I and write to me at editor@mojeh.com

MOJEH IZADPANAH Editor in Chief

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E D I T O R ’S S N A P S H OT S

ORGANIC NOTION 2

1

3

4

Form and fluidity set the season’s sartorial mood, where wide-cut trousers and billowing blouses caress the body rather than confine it. Jewellery is moulded around organic contours, swirling clean-cut metals in artistic settings. Look to a complementary palette of azure and lightweight white to harmonise its overall aesthetic.

1. MANOLO BLAHNIK | 2. BURBERRY | 3. HUBLOT | 4. JASON WU @NETAPORTER | 5. DE GRISOGONO | 6. CHAUMET | 7. MATICEVSKI

5

6

7

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W AT C H N OTE

D I V I N E D I A L “A ball gown must be the one of your dreams, and must also make you a dream-like creature. In my opinion, a ball gown is just as important a piece in a woman’s wardrobe as a suit. And so wonderful for morale...” Christian Dior said. Inspired by this view, the Dior VIII Grand Bal Plissé Ruban was created, capturing the elegance of eveningwear and the magical swirl of a ball gown with it oscillating weight on the dial. A truly glamorous timepiece that

Photographed by Julia Chernih at The Factory ME, styled by Sophie Pasztor

will make the perfect addition to your collection.

26

S KY H IG H The thigh-high returns this season with galactic effect.

Metallic, high-shine leathers add a futuristic feel, while beautifully embellished styles go well with eveningwear.

Left to right: GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI | BALENCIAGA | SAINT LAURENT

Photographed by Julia Chernih at The Factory ME, styled by Sophie Pasztor

S T YL E NOTE

26 – 28 OCTOBER 2017 DUBAI DESIGN DISTRICT

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ST YL E NOTE

SILK ROAD Sumptuous satins are one of the more luxurious fabrics emerging from your autumn/winter accessories. The polished material took over the runways in opulent jewel tones, moulding footwear from designers such as Stella Luna and Roger Vivier.

Clockwise from top left: ALEXANDRE BIRMAN at Level shoes | STELLA LUNA at

Photographed by Julia Chernih at The Factory ME, styled by Sophie Pasztor

Level Shoes | PEDRO GARCIA at Level Shoes | ROGER VIVIER

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M O J EH INTER V I E W

FIVE MINUTES WITH

PAULA KNORR MOJEH gets to know the extremely talented emerging designer causing a sartorial stir.

Clothing to covet.

The key pieces from my collection are definitely the black and red-wine hued transparent dresses and tops. I used a silk and foil mix chiffon fabric, which can look like glossy transparent latex in pictures, but moves like super-light chiffon and creates a beautiful antithetical effect.

It’s all about the woman.

To support and illustrate the female identity is at the core of my design ethos. In fashion you

German-born and London-based designer

London as a Launchpad.

often get the feeling that the model wearing the

Paula Knorr is a star on the rise. Upon

I studied my master’s degree at The Royal

clothes on the runway is getting more attention

graduating from The Royal College of Art

College of Art and stayed on afterwards. London

than the real woman who wears the garment

in 2015, the young designer’s unique and

offers plenty of great chances to young designers

later on. Every season, I try to reverse that

innovative draping techniques caught the

such as sponsorship schemes like NEWGEN,

and remind people of the actual purpose of

attention of the British Fashion Council who

for example. They have supported me since my

fashion. The real woman should always be at

named her as the latest addition to their

first spring/summer17 season. They provide a

the forefront, not her clothes. It´s all about her

NEWGEN talent incubation scheme last year.

lot of support that young designers lose but

body, her movement and her personal beauty.

In addition to showing her autumn/winter17

still desperately need when they graduate.

and spring/summer18 collections at last

These schemes also connect you with so many

Thinking on your feet.

month’s London Fashion Week, she’s just

amazing people who mentor you and give you

As a young designer the biggest challenge I’ve

released an exclusive capsule collection with

the confidence you need to believe that you are

faced is having to learn all the skills and gain

Matches Fashion that builds on her vibrant,

on the right track with your ideas and designs.

the knowledge you suddenly need to have when starting your own label fast enough.

daring and fluid designs. Here, she chats to Femininity in all of its forms.

You aren’t just thinking from a designer

Fashion tends to showcase this one-

perspective but also from sales, financial and

Artistic beginnings.

dimensional, fictitious girl as a muse, so for

operational perspectives.

I grew up in a very artistic household as both

autumn/winter17 I wanted to showcase the

of my parents are artists and illustrators. I was

diversity and complexity of the female psyche

What the future holds.

always sketching and sewing outfits for my little

and form. I imagined a collage where all these

Seeing my garments stocked in stores and worn

sister, which made me realise that I wanted to

different emotions and characteristics that don’t

by real women still amazes me. I hope to see

create clothes from a really young age.

belong or fit are brought together.

more and more of that as my business grows.

MOJEH about her role as a designer.

malloftheemirates.com

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T A L K I NG P O I NT

The Pursuit of Happiness

or considered to be a specific destination that could be reached. And with work, family, community and religious duties typically filling the day, there was little time to ponder personal fulfilment. Today we have greater financial wealth, more disposable income, rights for women and

Our universal quest for happiness is often understood through the lens of our finances and how we choose to spend them. MOJEH considers the age-old conundrum – can objects and experiences ever offer us internal fulfillment?

racial equality have vastly improved, life expectancies have increased and access to education, healthcare, and global travel continue to expand. Appreciating these advancements alone we might expect that citizens of developed countries are happier than those of less prosperous nations, but Richard Easterlin, professor of economics at the University of Southern California,

Words by Laura Beaney

argues that this is not the case. Known as the Easterlin paradox, his research during the Seventies claimed that growing national wealth is not always inline with growing national happiness and that largely, affluent

into consideration factors like income, life

their poorer counterparts. Easterlin’s theory

navigates everything from our activities

expectancy and education. There’s a link

continues to be contested, examined, and

to our outlook, the highway to happiness

that’s commonly drawn between cash flow

redefined by economists and intellectuals.

is a universal quest. Attempts to define,

and contentment, but as children our elders

Another landmark study by researchers at

prescribe, codify, quantify, formulate and

warn us that money can never attain it. In

the London School of Economics attributed

create a framework for happiness have

the developed world we have more than

most human misery to failed relationships

perplexed the human race for centuries. In

the previous generations could have ever

and physical and mental illness rather than

reality it’s all we really want and what most

imagined yet self-help books, Xanax and

measurable problems like poverty. These

of us spend our lives searching for – be that

psychiatry sessions are some of our defining

findings pose a problem because, in the

through career progression, meditation, the

pastimes. The story of Mo Gawdat typifies

Western world, our levels of contentment are

attainment of a dream home, time spent with

this sentiment. Despite his career success

often closely linked to our spending habits.

loved ones, a sip of our preferred tea, or an

and notable wealth, he was admittedly

There are entire industries, from music

hour sat on the couch of our psychiatrist.

profusely unhappy, his state-of-mind fuelled

festivals to pharmaceuticals, built upon this.

Research into what makes us smile is

an obsession with finding a precise formula

“Happiness can never be a destination,”

widespread and ongoing. Social scientists

for happiness. The chief business officer at

advises Suzanne Degges-White, PhD, a

attribute it to genetics, circumstances

Google’s [X], a select team that comprise

professor and chair of the Counselling,

and moral values, while economists

Google’s futuristic dream factory, used

Adult and Higher Education department

and psychologists seek to quantify and

this engineer’s mind to create an algorithm

at Northern Illinois University. “When you

comprehend it through data. Indeed

based on an understanding of how the brain

begin to tie happiness to the accumulation

the United Nations, rank the happiness

processes joy and sadness, creating his

of objective measures, you will never be

of entire countries through their annual

equation for permanent happiness.

happy enough.” Consider the purchase of a

human development index that takes

In the past, happiness was not quantified

new sports car as an example: you save for

Tomorrow’s Dream, photographed by Julien Vallon, MOJEH Issue 35

countries are not necessarily happier than Elusive, subjective, and a driving-force that

it, and imagine a certain return of pleasure once you finally own it. You buy it, but the next week, that brand new vehicle yields less shine, and does nothing more than last year’s model would – takes you from A-to-B. The experience of the purchase was the thrill, but the object remains an object.

Indeed, recent spending trends have seen experience-driven purchases take precedence over luxury goods, but is the end result more enriching? “I’ve worked hard to build my own brand after breaking away from the family business where I had a guaranteed support network,” says luxury accessories designer, Sofia Al Asfoor, who believes her healthy lifestyle choices were critical to her emotional wellbeing during this challenging phase. “When you’re under pressure you can easily fall into negative patterns. For me, all forms of exercise, spending time in natural environments and eating well have kept me balanced. While enhancing your personal style and offering a certain sense of pleasure, material things cannot contribute to a better you.”

Certain spends cannot easily be categorised, but all share a commonality in that they are driven by how they make us ‘feel’. One of Al Asfoor’s unforgettable moments of euphoria came as sunrise drenched the top of a mountain in Bali, a space she’d reached after a five-hour hike under the stars. “Some experiences affect us on multiple levels and increase the personal value of the time, money, or resources invested in them,” says Degges-White. “The ‘happiness industry’ is the result of our belief that we are masters of our lives and that we should be able to hold control over our emotions and states of being. Unfortunately, anything that truly brings lasting contentment or authentic gratitude is more than likely not a thing, but an experience.”

34

T A L K ING P O I NT

TALKING ‘BOUT MY GENERATION Narcissistic, materialistic and technology-addicted, the millennial generation is conveniently distilled into a stereotype that screams ‘me, me, me’. But, as this generation redefines adulthood in more ways than one, are millennials simply misunderstood?

Words by Natalie Trevis

If you value meaning and purpose in life over

world.” As the traditional markers of success

The fact that many millennials believe, unlike

salaries and pensions, prioritise wellness, are

have changed over the years – becoming

Gen Xers, that they will never be able to retire,

more likely to be caught daydreaming about

both harder to achieve and less desirable

changes the way money and work are viewed

that life-changing trip to Costa Rica than

– millennials are redefining what were once

and, among other things, deepens the need

weddings and are making drastically different

immutable timelines, pursuing the life goals of

for career fulfillment. “Millennials’ focus on

life choices to your parents, the chances are

marriage, children and home ownership much

meaning and passion is very real,” says David

you’re a millennial. Commonly defined as the

later, if at all. “Take marriage,” says Walden,

Stillman of father-son Gen X/Gen Z speaking

generation born between 1982 and the late-

“Millennials have significantly delayed marriage

team, Gen Z Guru. “It is not because they have

Nineties, millennials are often characterised in

and starting families. Unlike generations before

struggled of late with their career paths. They

literature, film and popular media as entitled

them, they’re settling down in their late 20s

want to meet traditional life achievements as

and self-obsessed, living on a diet of kale and

and early 30s (which puts them at a different

well. The difference is that they are asking for

the instant gratification that comes from the

stage in their career than when Generation

meaning and passion at a younger age. The

public over-sharing of every life event from

Xers and baby boomers began getting married

other generations also wanted these things,

sipping an Insta-worthy Matcha tea to the major

and having kids). Millennials are also redefining

but their model was that you had to put in time

milestones of career, love and life. Yet while

what parenthood looks like – with their careers

before you could expect more meaning in the

it might make an attention-grabbing headline

ramping up, they’ve had to. What role does

role. Millennials want to find that on day one.

to casually dismiss an entire generation as a

the mother have? What role does the father

Not right or wrong… but definitely different.”

series of relentlessly self-sabotaging kidults

play? It’s all part of pursuing a life goal in a

But shooting for the moon has not come

like so many of the narcissistic characters in

way that fits with their generational identities,

without its impracticalities. “College turned

HBO’s cult show Girls, as millennials come of

but also with the life stage they’re in as they

out to be expensive. 2008 happened. Unpaid

age – dominating the workplace, technology

pursue these goals.”

internships were normal,” notes Austyn Rask,

and the dating scene – these idle stereotypes

Living through dramatic shifts in technology,

research and writing associate at BridgeWorks

ring ever more hollow.

as well as fluid social and workplace demands,

and a late millennial who identifies more with

“Millennial life goals look different,” says

has forced millennials to adapt to the times at

tech-integrated Generation Edge. “Following

Lisa Walden, communications director and

lightning speed and therefore prioritise values

their passions in college didn’t necessarily

consultant at BridgeWorks consultancy and

over goals. The shifting ideals, multiple career

land millennials the highest-paying jobs.

a millennial herself. “Millennials were told they

twists – millennials are the consumers of the

Many millennials boomeranged back home to

could define their own happiness and that

workplace, with 60 per cent open to a new job

live with parents and save money. They didn’t

they should reach for the stars. Because of

opportunity and 21 per cent having changed

all get the uber-responsible jobs they aimed

that, many millennials aren’t necessarily going

jobs in the past year (more than three times

for, as Joel Stein referenced in millennials:

out there and pursuing the more ‘traditional’

the number of non-millennials) according to

The Me Me Me Generation. We find ourselves

life goals. They’re looking to enrich their lives

a Gallup survey in 2016 – and indifference to

explaining to clients that no, their millennial

through experiences, and finding ways to give

putting down solid roots could be perceived as

employees are not lazy for taking a midday

back. Some aren’t prioritising saving for a

fickle. But perhaps it simply belies a nimbleness

yoga class or for rolling into the office at

down payment on a house, but instead have a

and tenaciousness that have escaped the

10am. Millennials are building a reputation

savings account to fund their goal to travel the

conformist generations of previous decades.

for working obscure hours, whether 9pm

36

The irony of generational stereotyping is that the group most offended by millennials acting entitled are other millennials who do not act entitled.

on a Wednesday or half the day Saturday.

think the entitled segment of the generation

Is Changing The Middle East, Juan Cole, a

Workaholism and vacation-shaming are on

is giving them a bad reputation. In terms of

youth bulge means that now more than a

the rise for this young generation.”

millennial truth vs. fiction, there are actually

third of the Arab world’s population is made

Fewer boundaries between home and work

more millennials working today than any other

up of millennials. Although facing staggering

life mean that millennials bring their whole

generation. At the same time, people love to

rates of unemployment in many nations,

selves to projects, insecurities and all, with a

say that millennials are broke, yet millennials will

these young adults were significantly more

transparency, freedom and expectation to be

outspend every other generation as consumers

urban and literate than preceding generations

heard that breeds ideas and innovation but

this year. The truth is that every generation –

at the time of the Arab Spring, leading to

can also be misunderstood. A recent Pew

whether millennials, Gen X, or boomers – has

widespread unrest among a population that

Research Center study found that three out

a sub-group that may act entitled, lazy, or be

not only had access to information from the

of five millennials in the US don’t even want

firmly attached to the latest technology, but

outside world, but the ability to analyse and

to be called millennials, such is the perceived

millennials have been branded with way more

spread it. Social media, camera phones and

stigma. “We might live at home, choose not

than their fair share of negative characteristics

blogs, found a political significance not seen

to get married, or participate actively in the

because of the click bait results the media is

before and millennials – exposing the lie of

sharing economy, but none of these decisions

able to generate by taking a negative angle

their supposed apathy – were at the helm.

mean a stunted state of growth or intellect –

towards millennials.”

The tide continues to turn as the typecasting

just an evolving culture and worldview,” notes

Far from the navel-gazing hipsters society

wears increasingly thin and the millennial

writer Jeva Lange in The Week. While the

loves to hate, we find a generation of

dollar is courted by the consumer industries.

world might hate millennials, being one is even

workaholics afraid to take time off, who value

“Millennials are starting to get a more positive

worse, she says, particularly finding yourself

volunteering and community (both online and

spin,” says Dorsey, “but that seems to be

at the receiving end of tone deaf millennial-

IRL) more than any other generation before.

largely driven by millennials themselves who

caricature advertising campaigns, ‘hip’

In unstable global times, millennials are

are disproving – and disputing – the negative

political crusades, endless ironic posts about

more globally similar than other generations

stereotypes rather than other generations

how to get better at ‘adulting’, international

because of the rise of the Internet, yet the

adapting their view. The good news is that

news stories dumbed-down into GIFs from

strength of millennials is demonstrated

employers have recognised that millennials

The Hills and articles proclaiming millennials

differently depending on the context of their

can be valuable employees and are recruiting,

to be killing everything from the dinner date

environment. In the Middle East, not only

retaining, and developing millennials’

to the American dream.

does millennial power show itself in luxury

talent by adapting to bring out the best in

This desire for respect makes the broad-brush

spending, the rise of entrepreneurial tech-

this generation – while also expecting the

labels all the more difficult to accept. “The irony

conscious small businesses and the influence

generation to take some steps to adapt in

of generational stereotyping is that the group

of industry leaders with global reach, but in

return. On the consumer side, brands have

most offended by millennials acting entitled are

a growing social conscience and political

finally realised that millennials are not only the

other millennials who do not act entitled,” says

activism that now has an outlet coursing

drivers of every major consumer trend but

Jason Dorsey, president and researcher at The

through every smartphone.

also exhibiting brand loyalty. Millennials are

Center for Generational Kinetics, a millennial

According to historian and author of The

the number one generation to refer a friend

and author of Y-Size Your Business. “They

New Arabs: How The Millennial Generation

to a particular product, service, or person.”

Further cross-generational understanding

to invest time in the millennial mindset. That

our organisations.” As millennials – the most

of the issues millennials are facing and the

is not fair. The people complaining about

studied generation in history – grow up, forge

smart workarounds they have devised that

millennials are often the ones who raised

new paths for today’s young people to follow,

benefit everyone can ease the generational

them. The best thing we can do is end the

offer us solutions, leaders and creativity, it’s

gap even more. Think remote working,

negative chatter. More than just avoiding

time to leave behind the tired tropes of the

flexible hours, the ease of online shopping,

stereotypes it is about… having an open mind

avocado-addicted Peter Pan. Besides, it’s the

a guilt-free focus on wellbeing and apps

and learning how millennials are just different.”

progressive (‘woke’) Gen Zers who have never

for everything from dating to food delivery.

Draining generational conflicts hinder

known a world without the Internet, have

Progress brings change, which inevitably

productivity and happiness all round, agrees

an average attention span of eight seconds

meets pockets of resistance that can be

Rask. “With generational understanding,

and an annual spending power of $44 billion

overcome. “There is too much negative

however, we can understand our coworkers’

(AED 162 million) that are stepping into the

chatter about millennials,” notes Stillman.

perspectives, resolve some of those conflicts,

spotlight now. And with that heightened

“There is a lot of millennial fatigue today.

and leverage each others’ generational

sense of intuition, maybe, this time, they will

Therefore, people are not as likely to want

strengths to benefit ourselves, our teams, and

be the ones to define their own generation.

38

S T YL E NOTE

It’s time to re-learn and refine. This season it’s more about how you wear it. Clamp high-shine cuffs over sleeves and tuck billowing blouses into basques, punctuate your treasured pieces with delicate brooches, and juxtapose unexpected materials.

Photographed by RAPHAËL DELORME Styled by KELLY BALDWIN

Dress, MIU MIU | shirt, LANVIN

40

Dress and boots, SAINT LAURENT

Top, skirt and boots, FENDI | earrings, MARNI | necklace, SAINT LAURENT | bag, DOLCE&GABBANA

42

Dress, GUCCI | gloves, Bottega Veneta | bag, FENDI

Top and shorts, DELPOZO | bracelet, MARNI | rings, VERSACE | bag GUCCI

44

Dress (worn as shirt) and jacket, LANVIN | bag, GUCCI

Jumpsuit, DELPOZO | bag, FENDI | belt bag, GUCCI | belt, DOLCE&GABBANA | earrings and bracelet, MARNI | ring, VERSACE

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Top, AIGNER | dress, VALENTINO | belt (worn as necklace), LANVIN | sunglasses, MIU MIU

Dress, VALENTINO | bodice dress, GUCCI | jacket, VERSACE

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Cape, BOTTEGA VENETA | necklace, LANVIN

Model: Anastasia Tretyakova at Art Factory Management Hair and makeup: Marisol Steward Photography assistant: Hussein Attarwala Styling assistant: Sophie Pasztor Production: MOJEH Magazine

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F A SH I O N I N F O C U S

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BAROQUE BEGINNINGS Burnished burgundy and opulent azure shades present an ode to reality. The intricacy of

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brocade seen in Valentino’s coat creates a beautiful complexity that carries the eye while an accompaniment of gilded jewels brings a welcomed touch of glamour.

1. TIBI | 2. PATEK PHILIPPE | 3. PRADA | 4. ROBERTO COIN | 5. OSCAR DE LA RENTA | 6. GUCCI | 7. CARTIER | 8. VALENTINO | 9. POLLINI

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Compiled by Sophie Pasztor

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SENSUAL SOPHISTICATION Sleek silks and a multitude of lusciously languid silhouettes work to elevate bohemian designs. The ultra-luxurious slip dresses and honey-textured blouses, proposed by designers from Tibi to Mulberry, have made boudoir dressing hot on our radar.

1. FENDI | 2. TIBI | 3. DE GRISOGONO | 4. CHLOÉ | 5. NO.21 at Level Shoes | 6. DIOR | 7. ELISABETTA FRANCHI | 8. MULBERRY

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COLOUR CODES The demure shades we have come to expect during the cooler months are being challenged with more jovial pops of colour.

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Details are enriched through overtly bold embellishments, artistic embroidery and a juxtaposition of opposing fabrics.

1. CARTIER | 2. DELPOZO | 3. VALENTINO | 4. CHANEL | 5. CINDY CHAO | 6. TIBI | 7. OSCAR DE LA RENTA

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ON SIDE Alter preconceived notions that suggest athleisure is only suited to casual settings, and look to embrace it in a new context. Steer away from relaxed styles that play down sophistication and pair with other classic pieces such as a tailored suit or patent leather boots.

1. DIOR | 2. ROSETTA GETTY at BySymphony | 3. GUCCI | 4. CHLOÉ | 5. DELFINA DELETTREZ | 6 & 7. TIBI

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M O J EH NEW S

STYLE NEWS This October your Dubai diary will not be complete without a pitstop by Chanel’s new watch and fine jewellery boutique, while New York plays host to an exhibition that allows us to question the very fabric of our fashions and La Prairie’s latest launch looks set to become a skincare cult classic. MOJEH marks out the latest launches, events and additions to the style sphere.

The Launch, Comptoir 102 launches its own fine jewellery collection Dubai’s chic contemporary concept store, Comptoir 102, has announced the launch of its own jewellery collection, Numéro 102, crafted by fine jewellery designer Mathilde Danglade. Designed under the artistic direction of Comptoir 102’s founder, Emma Sawko, the collection features rings and pendants made of fine gold and semiprecious turquoise, and opals as well as gold-set rings and pendants with rough-cut edges. Throughout all the collections, the pieces feature the signature Comptoir 102 dots with materials and techniques heavily inspired by Danglade’s travels throughout Asia. “Some people collect bags or shoes, but for me it has been jewellery since my early childhood, whether in its simple form or precious,

The Book, Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott Seminal photo duo Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott have released their firstever photography publication in collaboration with Taschen. Over the past 20 years, the creative partnership have shaped the global image of contemporary glamour working with renowned brands such as Giorgio Armani, Fendi, Miu Miu, Gucci, Saint Laurent, Givenchy and Lancôme, as well as public figures including Madonna, Linda Evangelista, Gisele Bündchen, Angelina Jolie, and Rihanna. Their works showcase a diverse range of styles but are best known for their use of digitised augmentation of images, and preoccupation with strong female subjects.

Images Courtesy of Comptoir 102, Taschen, La Prairie, The Museum of Modern Art, and Chanel

jewels have always been important to my eye,” says founder Emma Sawko.

The Exhibition, Items: Is Fashion Modern?

Drawing together the present, past, and speculating upon the future, this exhibition focuses on 111 pivotal items of clothing and accessories that have had a strong impact on the world during the 20th and 21st centuries and continue to be relevant today. Pieces include the globally adored Levi’s 501s, and the LBD as well as culturally loaded items such as the sari, and the keffiyeh. Celebrating objects rather than their designers, the exhibition considers the complex relationships that entwine fashion with functionality, culture, politics, labour, identity, economy, and technology, extending the conversation into the future, and connecting the history of these garments with their current use.

The Museum of Modern Art, New York, October 1, 2017–January 28, 2018

The Treat, Skin Caviar Absolute Filler An elevated antidote to the seasonal wear-and-tear on our skin, La Prairie’s new Skin Caviar Absolute Filler uses new technology to target loss of volume and density – its main aim is to plump, reshape and refine the contours of the face, restoring the desirable appearance of youth.

La Prairie’s latest caviar technology, used for the first time in Skin Caviar Absolute Filler, features an advanced technological process that captures the most potent nutrients found in caviar. It contains highly concentrated caviar oil and caviar proteins – the two most powerful elements found in the ingredient – and in harmony they increase skin volume and firmness, delivering rich nutrients and moisture to stimulate collagen formation.

The Destination, Dubai welcomes its second Chanel Watch and Fine Jewellery Boutique The Mall of the Emirates’ new luxury wing becomes home to Chanel’s highly anticipated second watch and fine jewellery boutique. The interior of the new location has been conceived by notable New York architect Peter Marino, drawing inspiration from Gabrielle Chanel’s Parisian townhouse on Faubourg Saint-Honoré as well as her apartment at 31, rue Cambon.

In addition to the elevated interiors, each room showcases works of contemporary art commissioned for the fashion house. Visitors to the store can take in fine jewellery collections such as Bouton de Camélia, Coco Crush, Monsieur de Chanel and Première Boy watches as well as the latest fine jewellery and watch creations, such as Plume de Chanel, Sous le Signe du Lion and Mademoiselle Privé Coromandel watch. The gallery is also adjoined by a VIP room offering a private shopping experience.

Chanel watch and fine jewellery boutique, Mall of the Emirates, Dubai

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D E SI G N ER I NTERVIE W

ACCORDING TO ELLERY One of Australia’s most promising young design talents, Paris-based designer Kym Ellery brings MOJEH up to speed on her autumn/winter collection.

Interview by Mary Keenan

Why did you decide to start Ellery?

I grew up in a creative household with my artist mother always encouraging me to draw, paint and use my hands. We lived in a very remote part of western Australia and didn’t have a television, which definitely encouraged my creativity and imagination. I started sewing at a young age, however it wasn’t until I worked for a fashion magazine that I realised that there was a gap in the market for a brand like Ellery, that sat between the contemporary and luxury worlds.

You moved to Paris last year. Have new surroundings impacted your designs?

Living in Paris has certainly changed my outlook. I adore how French women have codes of dressing and I especially appreciate the way older men and women take such pride in their ensembles, the attention to detail is inspiring.

Talk us through your usual working day.

I like to start the day with meditation and tea and then head to the Tuileries Garden to do a boxing workout with my trainer. The morning is spent on Skype with my design team in Sydney, due to the vast distance between us we have all become extremely savvy digital communicators. Lunch is usually ordered in because I don’t have time to run out, then the afternoon is a mix of meetings and trying to get through my mountain of emails. In the evenings I like to spend some relaxing time with my boyfriend who is currently patiently teaching me my favourite Beatles songs on the guitar.

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What was your inspiration for your autumn/ winter17 collection?

An electric awakening inspired the collection. It tells the story of a traditional, bourgeois woman who goes on a journey of self-discovery.

What are some of the key pieces from this collection?

The PVC cropped flared trousers, the voluminous sleeved corset, the gold fringe kimono dress and the check suit are my favourites!

Tell us about the colours and prints used in the collection, what drew you to them?

I collaborated with my mother, Debra Ellery to create the psychedelic prints. She used a Japanese technique called Shibori to produce the vibrant prints.

Plaid fabrics are on trend this season, how do you suggest we wear them?

Mix them with interesting textures and colours to ensure the check doesn’t look too serious. I like the idea of a patent turtle neck with a check suit to fuse modern with traditional.

Your work often features architectural cuts and volume – what draws you to these two things?

I like to play with proportion in both a feminine and masculine way. It’s a fine line to dance on, but if correctly articulated it can make the wearer feel slimmer, taller and chicer. Isn’t that what we all desire?

Where do you seek inspiration?

I never know when or where inspiration will strike. It can be a song, movie, ideology or artwork that piques my interest. I enjoy the fact that inspiration can sit in the most unlikely of circumstances. The narrative of the collection is always born from thinking of a female character and exploring the world that she inhabits.

What’s on your mood board at the moment?

Brooke Shields; beaches; Martians; a young Gwyneth Paltrow; men’s tailoring references from the Seventies.

Watch this space!

Who is the Ellery woman?

She is intelligent, cerebral, creative and discerning.

What do women want from your clothing?

They want to feel confident and armoured to face whatever the day holds. They want to be able to seamlessly slip from day-to-night in the same outfit without overthinking.

Your designs are often trans-seasonal, in your opinion what are the staple pieces of a seasonless wardrobe?

Flares, a light trench coat, cashmere sweaters, ankle boots and the perfect cotton poplin shirt.

What has your best piece of advice been over the past decade?

Think big.

It tells the story of a traditional, bourgeois woman who goes on a journey of self-discovery.

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M O J EH W O M A N

Curating Culture Fashion stylist, dancer and all-round mover and shaker, Doha Challah speaks with MOJEH about her passion for the arts.

Interviewed by Sophie Pasztor

Doha is photographed by Borna Ahadi in her home wearing a dress by Valentino

Doha wears top by Warehouse, skirt by Chloé and shoes by Céline

What does fashion mean to you?

I’m not a person who is fixated on trends; fashion to me is an authentic form of self-expression. You can really identify with your mood, confidence, and vulnerability through your choice of clothing. People’s style fuels my curiosity about their personality and how they want to be perceived. Secretly, I’m a style voyeur… Am I revealing too much?

How does fashion and art connect?

I collect art because I love to immerse myself in it; each piece represents a thought-provoking emotion that my husband and I can relate to. As for fashion, I have a less complicated process. Perhaps the common aesthetics between the two is form, ambiguity and desire. But unlike my collection, my personal style is more understated and abstract, mostly with an edge.

What style of art are you drawn to?

Mostly modern and contemporary art. I like bodies of work that make me feel (and question) things. They can’t just be pretty to look at.

Tell us about the first piece of art you acquired.

A colourful piece by a cubist artist from Miami.

Has your taste evolved throughout the years?

Sometimes my heart (and mind) become set on something, and usually those pieces are the ones that stand the test of time, largely because of what they represent to me.

However, going to galleries, reading about artists and visiting museums help refine my taste and train the eye.

Which piece from your collection resonates with you the most?

A piece by Ayman Yossri Daydban called, Love Me, Love Me Not. It’s set on a lenticular screen with a freeze frame

62 Doha wears a jacket by Gucci

“Iranian-American artist, Ala Ebtikar, describes this work as a, ‘visual narrative that is a simultaneous deconstruction and reconstruction of time and space – a visual glimpse of a crossroad where present-day events meet history and mythology.

The planes are an accurate replica of the ones used in the Iraq-Iran war, and the prayer pages are the same as the ones passed on from one generation to another in Iran… It’s from one of my favourite galleries in Dubai: The Third Line.”

from a shot of Denzel Washington playing Russian roulette in the movie Malcolm X. The image changes when you walk by it. The image depicts Malcolm pointing a gun to the right side of his temple. On the right, the caption reads in Arabic ‘love me’, and on the left of Malcolm’s head the caption reads ‘love me not’. It is my favourite piece because, essentially, love is not pretty and yet there is no running away from it – I think it’s brilliant!

What’s inspirational about the regional art scene?

I think Dubai’s art scene is very exciting. There are so many opportunities for young collectors to explore, learn about art and develop their passion through various events, such as Art Dubai. There are also plenty of museums and foundations that also support regional galleries and creatives.

What common themes dominate the Middle Eastern art scene?

Obviously, political situations have triggered our own rebellious movements, but other than that, a lot of Middle Eastern artists have managed to distinguish their art from the common cultural influence of the Middle East as perceived by the West.

“The Paul Sibuet Flow in white is our favourite edition, because we like the idea that adding all primary colours together yields as white – the colour of perfection.”

How would you describe your home’s interior?

I think my home reflects my ‘taste du jour’. It’s quite eclectic at the moment.

Any tips for young collectors?

Do your research, go to as many shows and fairs as you can. Invest for love and try to maintain a certain narrative to give your collection a stronger point of view.

Any favourite artists?

Hard to name only a few, but maybe Robert Rauschenberg and Marcel Duchamp for their intellectual humour.

Are you inspired when you travel?

When it comes to our humble collection, the buying is a joint force between my husband and I. We try to build memories around each piece. That’s why, when we travel, we visit galleries, and we are constantly looking for something different and easy to integrate with our current collection. The joy of the pursuit makes the process more personal and dear to our hearts.

What’s next?

I’ve always tried to juxtapose my work in fashion to teaching dance classes. Both are close to my heart and go hand-in-hand - since they are both artistic and require passion, skill and experience. I want to continue working on a freelance basis as a stylist and consultant for established brands, emerging designers, magazines and online retailers. Also, I’m putting Dance Mash-Up on the map (watch this space).

“This piece we acquired recently is by a Tunisian Artist, Nicène Kossentini. It is particularly special because it’s our first work on paper. The artist drew Islamic geometric shapes in pencil and highlighted the core in watercolour; it represents our core values and how they shift (attract and repel) when impacted by outside influences, which is the state of our culture at the moment.”

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S T YL E NOTE

Decoding The Season From cool collaborations and high jewellery must-haves to a galactic embrace, MOJEH breaks down the key styles for the month ahead.

Photographed by BORNA AHADI Styled by SOPHIE PASZTOR

“I had a really good look through the archives to get an understanding of the history and their inspiration… So it was very much diving into the archive and mixing it with elements I find prevalent in my designs.” Nicholas Kirkwood on his collaboration with Bulgari.

Bag, BVLGARI

Shirt, top and trousers, GUCCI

Gucci’s creative director Alessandro Michele extends his repertoire of designer collaborations with young Spanish artist Coco Capitán, launching an exclusive capsule collection. The artist notes, “The focus was on the message and not so much

THE COLLABORATION

in the materials or platforms used to transmit it”.

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THE MOTIF

Top, DOLCE&GABBANA | Cosmic Diner Hard Rocket Candle Holder, SELETTI at Cities Design, Art and Lifestyle Store

Bag, DIOR | Cosmic Diner Lunar Brass Box, SELETTI at Cities Design, Art and Lifestyle Store

Designers gaze toward the stars with astronomical-inspired motifs.

Dolce&Gabbana departs from its signature Sicilian glamour to embrace mystical night skies and half-moons, while Dior retains its romantic zodiac references.

Bag, CHANEL

Chanel introduces us to the season’s new It bag. The rocket shaped carry-all will make a jovial addition to your wardrobe, and is thoughtfully decorated in the label’s trademark logo.

68 Embellish your look with pronounced metal accents by layering the season’s most noteworthy jewellery.

Don’t be afraid to mix metals and experiment with coloured stones.

Left to right: Stackable lace rings – set of 5, SHEEN at S*uce Rocks | 18-karat gold ring with emeralds, amethysts and rubies, ZAABEL JEWELRY at S*uce Rocks | Liens Séduction bracelet in 18-karat white gold with brilliant-cut diamonds and Liens Séduction bracelet in 18-karat pink gold with brilliant-cut diamonds from the Liens collection, CHAUMET | Key To My Heart ring with a pave of diamonds in gold, CHARMALEENA at S*uce Rocks | 18-karat gold swirl ring with diamonds, SUZANNE KALAN at S*uce Rocks | Lighting Bolt eternity ring, MARMAR at S*uce Rocks

Shoe, SAINT LAURENT

Sunglasses, SAINT LAURENT

Top: Anthony Vaccarello is a man of details, rifling through the archives in an attempt to revamp the heritage house of Saint Laurent, and putting back the Y in YSL. A throwback to the original logo and seen in heels, moulded to jewellery and placed on stockings, the iconic emblem provides a welcomed dose of sartorial nostalgia. This season it makes its debut in electric shades of azure and cherry.

Right: Eyewear is given a tough exterior with punk-metal studs that border frames and pair well with cigarette trousers and band tees.

Oversized knits are given new purpose as statement belts accentuate the female form, sculpting the waist for a structured look. Try complementing tough-metal hardware with fabrics that incorporate a subtle metallic sheen in their stitching.

The Allegra collection from De Grisogono shares a personal connection, embedded deep within its makeup. Bearing the name of founder Fawaz Gruosi’s first-born daughter, its playful design consists of elegant interwoven spirals, evoking the indestructible connection between two beings.

Earring, DE GRISOGONO

THE HARDWARE

Top, BALENCIAGA | belt, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

70 Jacket, MARNI | gloves, BOTTEGA VENETA

Bottega Veneta’s elbow-length gloves present an ode to old Hollywood glamour. Constructed in lustrous leather, they present a modern update to the retroinspired varieties, and are this

THE TEXTURE

season’s most coveted accessory.

Boot, BALENCIAGA

Reach new levels with thigh-high boots cased in patent leather for high-gloss shine. Styled best under a serviceable trench coat or an oversized knit dress.

Sleek, liquid-like leathers drape over the body, giving a refined finish to wardrobe staples. Look to invest in a new coat from designers such as Marni that will transition you from the office to after-hours gatherings with ease.

Coat and belt, MARNI

72 Earrings, DONNA HOURANI at S*uce Rocks

Embrace a rainbow of colour in your jewellery through a series of bright stones. Architectural designs such as an ear cuff or brooch work best.

The codes of colour step into overdrive with rainbow hues painted on everything from coats to bags. Artisanal details such as clever patchwork and contrasting mediums speak to your creative side, while the inclusion of gold ensures sophistication.

Bag, MARNI

Coat, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

Discovering the Cloutie tree on a trip to Cornwall, Sarah Burton dreamt up her autumn/ winter collection for Alexander McQueen. Their branches, decorated in colourful ribbons, represent the hopes and wishes of those who tied them. Burton translated this into a series of coats and dresses featuring

THE PALETTE

long colourful trails of thread.

74 Top to bottom: STELLA MCCARTNEY | GUCCI | VALENTINO

Nineties vision is back with a vengeance.

Undersized, horizontally inclined shades present an ode to The Matrix, with a tough, but cool aesthetic. Picked up by names like Kendall Jenner and Rihanna, this retro look

THE SHAPE

leaves its mark as a firm favourite.

MOJEH.COM Our carefully curated digital platform delivers engaging, inspiring and timely content with exclusive access to the industry’s most influential players.

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FA SH IO N F EATU RE

With last month’s Copenhagen Fashion Week serving as a visual smorgasbord of the sartorial nous the region has to offer, we unearth what makes Nordic style so unique.

of Fashion Scandinavia Dorothea Gundtoft.

“150 years ago fashion wasn’t a part of our lifestyle, instead local villages had their own embroidery techniques and styles that were used for costume-like pieces worn at weddings and festive occasions that decorated with floral patterns. As our economy has changed and our cities have developed and grown, there’s now a focus on clothes that can be easily worn while bicycling as that’s how everyone gets around.” Weather has played a pivotal part

From the edgy power dressing of New York and

incredibly stylish, balance between laid-back

in the development of Nordic style due to the

the Gucci-esque excess of Milan, to the eclectic

and sophisticated, Scandinavian women (and

harsh climes that sees the region engulfed in

melting pot of London and the polished chic of

men) have well and truly eclipsed their European

winter for six months of the year, averaging

Paris, each of fashion’s four capitals have their

and international counterparts in the sartorial

six hours of sunlight per day. “Our weather is

own distinct style aesthetics. However, a new

stakes. Fusing both cool and comfort with

more often rainy than sunny,” laments Gundtoft,

collective of power players have steadily climbed

unsurpassed ease, these Danish, Norwegian

“which means that you need a good coat and

their way to the top in mule (and sneaker-clad

and Swedish natives have serious style game.

winter clothes – but they don’t have to be dull.

feet) carving out a strong fashion identity for

“Scandinavian style has always had a

Scandinavian interior design from the Fifties

Northern Europe. Striking a harmonious, and

tendency towards minimalism and practical

onwards including the architectural lines and

Images courtesy of Marianne Theodorsen, photographed by Timur Emek and Christian Vierig at Getty

THE SCANDI SET

wear,” explains the Danish stylist and author

Words by Mary Keenan

functionalism with an effortless mastery. Think:

site, which eventually led to the launch of her

timeless camel coats, black oversized cashmere

highly successful print magazine, Styleby. This

knits and super-cool denim paired with backless

paved the way for an outcrop of fashion insiders

loafers or Balenciaga’s Instagram-worthy floral

such as Kling’s colleague Columbine Smille

ankle boots for a look that’s understated and

and Pernille Teisbaek both locally and abroad.

slick. However, there are subtle differences

Stockholm and Copenhagen Fashion Weeks

between the aesthetics of the three nations.

now draw a large international crowd of both

“In the past Danish fashion designers were

press and buyers thanks to brands like Ganni

slightly more experimental than the Swedes,

and by Malene Birger, which helps to elevate

who kept their clothes relatively minimalistic,

younger brands and street style stars on an

and the Norwegians always had strong knitwear,

international scale. “A lot more of the international

but they were more daring with their prints,”

press are attending the Scandinavian fashion

says Gundtoft. “Today, I feel like it has changed

weeks and are showing an interest in our street

slightly. Norwegian designers have a more

style,” explains Gundtoft. “Now, the collections

fashion-forward approach to their branding

are suddenly featured on the websites of

and presentation now, while colour and prints

international fashion publications and the street

are definitely the new mood in Danish fashion,

style is huge. It brings a lot more focus onto our

with designers such as Saks Potts mixing

designers and gives them incentive to produce

different coloured fur and Baum und Pferdgarten

great collections – the world is watching!”

combining printed fabrics to quirky effect.”

The fashion industry within the Nordic nations

For Nordic brands, the smaller markets

is currently booming. “There are so many great

within their home nations cause them to

things happening on the Scandinavian fashion

expand internationally quickly and efficiently.

scene right now,” enthuses Theodorsen. “Some

Take Stutterheim, for example: the Swedish

brands to look out for are Norwegian Tom

practicality of designers such as Arne Jacobsen,

raincoat brand was stocked at Barney’s New

Wood, Admir Batlak, Edda Gimnes and Michael

Finn Juhl and Svenskt Tenn have also greatly

York within its first year of operation and has

Olestad – they’re all bringing something new

influenced our fashion,” she notes.

grown its production from three raincoats

and exciting to the game.” Gundtoft is quick to

“Our style might not be as glamorous as our

a day to between 500 to 800 per day in

agree. “Keep an eye on the newcomers,” she

friends down south, but I think Scandinavians

six years. Swedish streetwear brand Acne

advises. “Freya Dalsjö, Saks Potts and Mark

have a coolness that´s pretty unique,” quips

Studios has an international mindset, staging

Tan alongside Stine Goya who is famous for her

Norwegian blogger Marianne Theodorsen.

runway shows on the Paris Fashion Week

prints. Baum und Pferdgarten do make a fine

A quick scroll through her wildly popular

schedule and has stores in London, Tokyo,

wardrobe, alongside Swedish brands such as

Instagram account can confirm this – on any

Seoul and New York. A strong command of

Acne Studios, Filippa K, Ida Sjöstedt, Totême

given day she could be rocking a checked

the English language often sees Scandinavian

and the Norwegian designers FWSS, Veronica

midi skirt with a hoodie and Hermès Birkin

brands launching English websites from their

B. Vallenes, and Elisabeth Stray Pedersen.”

bag or a slinky Proenza Schouler halter dress

inception, which makes them accessible

While the Middle Eastern climate is dramatically

with Marimekko patterned boots. “Essentially,

to a much larger international audience.

different to that of Northern Europe, following the

we’re laid back and practical and mix luxury

Social media has been one of the driving forces

Scandinavian style set’s lead towards garments

with brands like H&M and Zara – the key lies

behind the rise of Scandi street style fashion,

that offer quality and wear-ability is a wise move.

in putting your own unique twist on it.”

with Elin Kling arguably the first person to

“The key takeaways from our style is to wear

Built upon a solid foundation of tonal

put modern Scandinavian style on the map.

clothes that are practical for everyday activities,

monochrome palettes, uncomplicated clean

Kling started out as a blogger alongside the

with a focus on sustainability and items that are

lines and fluid silhouettes with just the right

likes of Anna Dello Russo, Rumi Neely and

well-made,” advises Gundtoft. “Combine classic

amount of bold colour and print thrown

Tommy Ton on the Now Manifest website and

elements, such as great cottons, cashmeres,

in, Scandi style combines minimalism and

picked up international cross-traffic from the

silks and pieces with architectural details.”

78 PERNILLE TEISBAEK Instantly recognisable by her shaggy blonde locks, the co-founder and creative director of Danish influencer marketing agency Social Zoo is street style icon. Playfully experimenting with proportion and structure, Teisbaek is a true style chameleon. Whether strolling the streets in an oversized turtleneck and faded jeans or spotted on her way to shows in a plaid shorts suit and sneakers, Teisbaek exudes polished nonchalance.

CAROLINE BLOMST Swedish street style blogger Caroline Blomst knows more than a thing or two about fashion.

With a fervent Instagram following of almost 95,000 she’s a regular fixture on the streets of Stockholm. An ardent proponent of athleisurestyle separates, tailored blazers and contemporary outerwear, Blomst plays confidently with colour and print and has mastered the art of mixing high street and high fashion with unparalleled ease.

MARIANNE THEODORSEN Norwegian public relations director and blogger Marianne Theodorsen has become known for her distinctly relaxed style that she infuses with a sharp streetwear edge. Pairing the prettiest of summer dresses with old school checkered Vans and leather biker jackets and faded vintage denim with sparkly Gucci slip on loafers, Theodorsen has a knack for combining old and new in a way that looks fresh and uncontrived.

ELIN KLING Playing a pivotal role in putting Scandinavian style on the map, Kling launched her blog Style by Kling in 2007 which was an overnight success. Two years later she started her own magazine Styleby before launching ready-towear brand TotĂŞme in 2014. Known for her less is more approach to styling, Kling nails simple sophistication in her rota of white shirts, black denim, turtlenecks and boxy knits.

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BY MALENE BIRGER Sleek, modern and minimal, By Malene Birger’s success lies in its simplicity. Launched by acclaimed Danish designer Malene Birger in 2004, the brand revolves around a thoughtfully curated core of layerable basics that every woman should own including mohair knitwear, leather trousers, tailored shirts, diaphanous dresses, wide-legged pants and understated tees.

GANNI Created by Ditte and Nicolaj Reffstrup in 2009, Copenhagen-based brand Ganni draws inspiration from the streets of the Danish capital with a contemporary yet easy to wear aesthetic. From dainty drop-waist dresses to romantic lace tops and leopard print coats to athletic stripe T-shirts, Ganni appeals to women looking for uncomplicated elegance.

ACNE STUDIOS Johnny Johansson is something of a household name in Scandinavia. The designer is the creative mind behind cult Swedish label Acne Studios.

Rooted deeply in streetwear culture with his denim offerings commanding cult status, Johansson also draws from art and architecture resulting in clothes that sit between the essential and the eccentric.

BAUM UND PFERGARDEN Rikke Baumgarten and Helle Hestehave are the design duo behind this playful Danish brand.

Established in 1999 their designs contrast strong colours against clashing prints and are imbued with a modern sportswear vibe. A firm favourite with the fashion set, their show is one of the most highly anticipated at Copenhagen Fashion Week.

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MONOCHROME MANTRA

SE A S O N A L S TY LE

Checkerboard hues articulate timeless sophistication and are personified through immaculate design. Look to pieces that add a point of interest through intricate patterns or strategically balance opposing shades.

Compiled by Sophie Pasztor

ANDREW GN

1. M2MALLETIER | 2. N°21 BY LINDA FARROW | 3. DE GRISOGONO | 4. TEMPERLEY LONDON | 5. CHANEL | 6. ALBERTA FERRETTI | 7. ROSETTA GETTY at BySymphony

UTILITARIAN BLUES

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DIOR

Blue is the new black and navy is its commanding shade. Paired best against serviceable denim and in modest silhouettes, this colour goes perfectly with robust accessories and when accented with metal hardware.

1. ROSETTA GETTY at BySymphony | 2. LOUIS LEEMAN at Level Shoes | 3. MATICEVSKI | 4. HERMÈS | 5. COACH | 6. YUUL YIE | 7. TIBI

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FA SH IO N P R O F I LE

A Sense of Occasion Known for their ability to seamlessly fuse sophistication and sensuality, Carly Cushnie and Michelle Ochs have got creating refined event attire down to a fine art. The New York-based duo share their insights on statement dressing for the season ahead.

Words by Mary Keenan

“It’s about modern sensuality,” Carly Cushnie

of impact. “Each season, we research an idea

explains of the design vision she shares with her

and expand upon that through the exploration

fellow designer and business partner Michelle

of colour and fabric before we define what the

Ochs. “We aim to create classic, iconic pieces

silhouettes and details of the season will be. Only

for the modern woman – basically we design

then does the sketching begin – we each sketch

the pieces that we want and need in our own

separately and we bring our ideas together,”

closets,” she says with a laugh. Carly and

explains Carly. “This season we looked to

Michelle met while studying at Parsons School

American artist Robert Smithson for inspiration,”

of Design in New York. Their similar aesthetics

recounts Michelle. “His broken glass sculptures

and shared creative tastes caused them to form

informed the icy tones, sharp angular lines and

a close friendship and upon graduating in 2007

the lace detailing of the collection.” From well-

the two decided to combine forces. A year later

cut jumpsuits and tuxedo jackets to peek-a-boo

they officially launched their eponymous brand,

bodycon and sheath dresses, the collection

Cushnie et Ochs, and debuted their spring/

holds endless options for women who require

summer09 collection at New York Fashion Week.

their wardrobes to exude round-the-clock allure.

The rest, as they say, is history. There have been plenty of milestones along the way to the

A sharply cut, collarless tuxedo jacket paired with trousers made a strong and appealing case for standout red carpet style

pair’s fast approaching 10-year anniversary, including winning the Ecco Domani Fashion Fund Award, selling a stake of their company to private investors and the expansion of their brand into accessories, not to mention the fact that their ready-to-wear offerings are consistently worn by some of the most powerful and influential women in the world – Michelle Obama, Rihanna and Selena Gomez are among them. Despite all their success, they remain extremely down to earth and have continued to work hard at developing and fine-tuning their sleekly tailored designs that celebrate the female form.

“As women, we want versatility and longevity from our wardrobes. As designers, we want to be able to dress our women from day to dusk or from dusk to day – in whichever order works for them,” Michelle says with a wink. It’s this profound understanding of what their peers want – laced with a touch of lightheartedness – that has seen the pair triumph by bringing together quality and functionality with just the right amount of sex appeal and sass. “While our woman has grown with us, she always remains the same. She’s strong and confident, yet feminine and sexy,” expounds Michelle.

“She’s a modern woman who is unapologetically bold in all that she does. We want to give her timeless and striking updates to her wardrobe season after season.”

The duo’s autumn/winter17 collection shown in New York earlier this year was a natural progression from their spring/summer show, consisting of simple yet powerful silhouettes that weren’t overtly ostentatious but held plenty

Carly Cushnie and Michelle Ochs

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Dresses and tops with full length sleeves and midi hemlines were cut away to frame dĂŠcolletages and shoulders

Sequin embellishments brought a hint of playfulness and a luxurious sheen to the collection’s eveningwear silhouettes

The duo debuted their first handbag collection which consisted of structured origami-like silhouettes on the runway

When it comes to naming the most glamorous

As the end of the year approaches, things show

look of the collection, Carly and Michelle are

no sign of slowing down for Michelle and Carly,

divided. “I love the midnight navy cocktail dress

who have just shown their spring/summer18

with the angular neckline and sequins because

collection and simultaneously debuted their

it’s sexy, glam and modern all at once,” declares

foray into footwear at New York Fashion Week.

Carly. “The finale look from our runway show is

“We can’t wait to receive our new handbags,

a glamorous, modern show-stopper,” counters

which we launched this season! This has been a

Michelle. “With head-to-toe embroidery and

much-anticipated category for us, and we’re so

glitter – it makes you look like a disco ball and

excited to carry our own bags around with us,”

you’ll command the attention of any room.”

highlights Michelle. If the recent Emmy Awards,

As purveyors of red carpet attire, Carly and

where Lea Michele and Padma Lakshmi donned

Michelle have their fingers well and truly on the

Cushnie et Ochs ensembles, are anything to go

pulse when it comes to what women should be

by, the duo’s standout designs will no doubt be

wearing come event season. “We’d like to see

in high demand as the film and entertainment

people taking more risks on the red carpet this

industry heads into awards and events season.

season and we especially want to see more

The lace detailing on garments was inspired by American artist, Robert Smithson’s, broken glass sculptures

pants!” Michelle asserts. “Pants should be more acceptable on the red carpet – we’re waiting for our moment to dress someone in a really amazing jumpsuit or trouser look for an award show.” Carly is quick to agree, “We believe jumpsuits and formal pant looks should take centre stage this season. Play with separates by pairing a great bodysuit or crop top with pants or a skirt, or try out a fitted suit. It’s all about power dressing.” Having found themselves on many a red carpet over the years, Carly swears by a strong cat’s eye or red lip as the key to pulling off any ensemble. For Michelle it’s sleek hair either worn blunt and straight or tiedback tightly.

In the time that they’ve worked together, Michelle and Carly have developed systems to bring their respective ideas together cohesively. “Because there are two of us, we have a vast amount of ideas and thoughts that we need to narrow down each season,” explains Carly. “Two heads are always better than one,” echoes Michelle.

“Our differences complement each other, which always works to balance out our collections.

We like being able to bounce ideas back and forth against each other and making directional decisions together each season. This results in the strongest representation of our collective vision.” However, it hasn’t always been smooth sailing; the pair took a major risk for their autumn/winter10 collection, which paid off in the end. “We had a change of heart just three weeks before the show, and ended up changing the entire collection,” recalls Carly. “We switched everything from the fabrics to the designs and the colours and even brought on a new stylist.

It’s still one our favourite collections to date.”

Carly and Michelle showcased their love of alternate eveningwear silhouettes sending out a series of jumpsuits and trouser looks

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S E A S O NA L M O M E NT S

Icon Status We look back to the most talked about moments from the autumn/winter shows to see how fashion is moving forward for the season.

Words by Sophie Pasztor

The Tribute – Stella McCartney made a touching tribute to the late George Michael for the label’s finale.

Models formed a flash mob while dancing to the singer’s iconic song, Faith.

The Reunion – Dries Van Noten enlisted his former 90s muses to be part of his 100th show for a reunion like no other.

STELLA MCCARTNEY

DRIES VAN NOTEN

92 The Home Coming – Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim made their debut for Oscar de la Renta, bringing with them a freshness that speaks to a younger demographic. Key design fundamentals such as resplendent embroidery and sophisticated sensibilities remained at the collection’s core.

OSCAR DE LA RENTA

Digital Domination – Dolce&Gabbana showed us the digital age has never been more imperative. Following last season’s selfie-themed runway, the designer duo once again opted to shake things up, electing influencers over models to unveil their new collection. This comes after Rebecca Minkoff’s similar spring/summer show that saw bloggers Chriselle Lim, Arielle Nachmani, Gala Gonzalez, Caroline Vreeland and Shea Marie take to the runway to promote the ‘see now, buy now’ concept trending by many a designer such as Burberry, Tommy Hilfiger and Tom Ford.

DOLCE&GABBANA

The Mood – The enthralling atmosphere generated at the Saint Laurent show was provoked by the venue’s raw amphitheatre, where we witnessed compelling after-dark looks that gleamed in iridescent light.

SAINT LAURENT

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A Night At The Museum – Staged inside the incredible Louvre museum, Louis Vuitton used the Cour Marly hall to platform its collection, weaving around an exceptional collection of sculptures commissioned by Louis XIV for the gardens of the Château de Marly. The house’s wanderlust approach to location scouting continued as the maison travelled to Kyoto in Japan for the brand’s cruise collection.

ALBERTA FERRETTI

LOUIS VUITTON

The Look – The desire for a polished complexion has returned, as bold beauty trends replace fresh skin looks with graphicly lined eyes and bold pigments.

96 Fresh Faces – Model diversity spoke to the times, with varying ages, nationalities, religions and body shapes unifying brands. Halima Aden was the first Hijab-wearing model, making her debut at Max Mara and Alberta Ferretti, Winnie Harlow continued to show us that imperfections can be our greatest weapons and designers such as Vetements and Dries Van Noten showed us that age has no limits.

ALBERTA FERRETTI

A Fluid Future – Alessandro Michele’s first amalgamated female/male collection blurred the confines of gender bigotry. Crystalembellished mesh masks became tools of concealment, disguising the identity of his models. Vivienne Westwood, Vetements and Public School are among some of the other names to make this move.

GUCCI

Breaking The Mould – Contemporary labels such as Marco de Vincenzo and MSGM remain experimental with ambitious designs and an eccentric vision.

Their innovative use of contrasting mediums like faux fur, PVC and mixing opposing prints such as leopard and tartan challenge other traditional names.

MSGM

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MOSCHINO

Advocating Activism – Social and political activism or direct overarching statements became prevalent, as fashion was used as a vessel to gain a greater reach. Prabal Gurung’s finale saw models walk out in statements that read “This is what a feminist looks like”, Alice + Olivia opted for shirts that read “Be the change you wish to see in the world”, Jonathan Simkhai donned a “Feminist AF” shirt and several designers, including Tommy Hilfiger, Thakoon, Phillip Lim, Dior and Diane von Furstenberg, displayed white bandanas in their shows as a symbol of inclusivity and acceptance.

CHLOÉ

A New Chapter – Clare Waight Keller’s tenure at Chloé came to an end after a memorable six-year reign. Nostalgic references of music and film hovered over her parting collection while celebrations backstage came in the form of golden confetti. We wait with eager anticipation to see how her whimsical aesthetic will imprint on her new role as creative director at Givenchy.

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FA SH IO N F EATU RE

COPY CATS Imitation is said to be the most sincere form of flattery, apart from when it comes to the fashion industry. As logomanina, brand subversion, and hi-lo collaborations dominate our desires, MOJEH discovers how fashion learnt to embrace the bootleggers.

Images courtesy of Gucci and Getty photographed by Christian Vierig, Edward Berthelot, Vanni Bassetti, Daniel Zuchnik, and Ben Pruchnie

Words by Laura Beaney

Vetements x Champion

Has logomania finally reached its peak? Not quite.

The barely-there branding that perpetuated the recession-era has well and truly dissolved, in place of the four understated white stitches that subtly signified Margiela are ballooned Fendi logos emblazoned across rucksacks, gaudy Gucci lettering scrawled in spray paint over tees and enlarged YSL lettering dangling from the ears in yellow gold. And then there’s the new names in fashion like Vetements that look to logo-play as an integral element of their brand identity. Since the mid-Noughties we’ve been shifting towards a ‘bigger and bolder is better’ stance, but there’s more to this trend than a sudden upward sweeping trajectory of logo love. Our understanding of conspicuous branding is fickle. What was once viewed as a status symbol and outward display of wealth became a marker of poor taste during the rise of Céline, The Row and Bottega Veneta. So when it comes to brandishing brand names there’s a certain sense of cynicism and irony attached that hasn’t gone unnoticed by those outside the French fashion houses. Back in 2006, renegade designer, Brian Lichtenberg, decided to materialise this sentiment.

One of his most popular attempts was the Homiés subversion of the Hermès logo that shot to fame after Rihanna was spotted wearing a sweater that almost immediately sold out. Street style soon saw lovers of high fashion accessorising with Homiés bobble hats and authentic Birkins in unison, the conjunction of the real and the subversion showed that the wearer was in on fashion’s joke. Lichtenberg’s work became notorious with no house left unturned,

Gucci’s Cruise 2018 jacket recalled one that Dapper Dan had designed in 1989

Balenciaga’s holdalls have recently been compared to Ikea carriers and Thai market bags

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Today’s catwalks are rife with references to popular culture, but it began with Andy Warhol during the 60s.

Chanel, Commes des Garçons, and Balmain all befell the recontextualisation treatment.

Since Lichtenberg, logo subversion has become all the rage but it’s by no means a new phenomenon.

Its roots can be traced back to Warhol’s Campbell’s Soup Cans (1962) and seen in the anti-globalisation movement of the 90s and Naomi Klein’s ‘No Logo: Taking Aim at the Brand Bullies’. “For streetwear designers defacing iconic logos can be both a tonguein-cheek homage to high fashion – think SSUR’s riffs on the Comme des Garçons logo telling us to ‘Comme de F**k Down’ – while also subverting luxury branding, bringing it down to earth from its rarefied position,” explains Melanie Plank, trend forecaster and UEL fashion marketing programme leader. “It’s a fashion ‘in-joke’ that only those in the know will Gosha Rubchinskiy x Fila

get, creating a cult status that appeals to fashionsavvy millennials.” Other logo appropriations such

Loaded with logo: Versace autumn/winter17

Sportswear overlapped with luxury embodies the hi-lo obsession

as Vetements’ cult DHL T-shirt take banality and use it as an anti-fashion statement. You can’t get more ubiquitous, less exclusive and more anti-luxury than DHL. In the same way that Warhol made us question what art is, designers are questioning what constitutes luxury albeit in a tongue-in-cheek way.

Today, style consumers are both savvy and educated, thanks to the plethora of content on offer from live show streamings to hashtag campaigns and digital influencers spreading messages across social media. Millennials don’t just buy into any profitable brand, they approach their clothes with caution, intrigued by the production process and quality of the material, seeking current and authentic brand stories, and unexpected collaborations. “We live in meme-obsessed, gif-happy world where visual puns have moved from Instragram into our visual culture,” says Plank. “You just need to look at the #TFWGucci campaign and its recent collaboration with notable meme artists to promote its new watch collection to see how luxury brands are embracing Internet culture. Branding subversion is an extension of this cut-and-paste, hi-lo culture clash that has come to define our visual culture.” Clothing that is meme-able is also shareable and therefore highly desirable. Vetememes, a US brand that produced a parody of the Vetements branding, saw its raincoat go viral. An ironic take on a brand known for its ironic takes, Vetmemes is aping the meme culture that is the driving force of online youth culture.

Away from the catwalk, Reilly, a London-based graphic

Anya Hindmarch spring/summer16

104 High fashion uptakes branded sportswear

Current season branding nears full saturation

designer and art director, lends digital humour to the land of logos. “The sheer power that some logos can carry is astonishing; people sometimes only need to see the colours to recognise the brand instantly,” he says. Known for reimagining Margiela as McDonalds, and Lanvin as Lidl, Reilly’s favourite and most famous offering created a social media storm. Working with a photograph of Celine Dion carrying a Dior handbag at the Dior Couture autumn/ winter17 show, Reilly doctored the image so the bag was emblazoned with ‘Céline Dior’. Style confusion and rumors of a forthcoming collaboration ensued but his work was regrammed by the House of Dior, who jokingly captioned: “A new member of the Dior family has just been baptised: welcome Céline!”

Fashion has become fixated with parody, counterfeits, and most recently collaboration. What was once seen as ripping-off is now seen as an homage, and the bootleggers are becoming the bootlegged. 25 years after the industry’s key players forced couturier Daniel Day to close the doors of his infamous Harlem boutique, one of his aggressors is looking to rebuild bridges. Better known as Dapper Dan, during the 80s and early 90s Day’s 24-hour store sold custom-made extravagant outfits engulfed in an excess of fake logos, from fashion houses like Gucci and Louis Vuitton, catering to rappers, gangsters and those searching for streetcred via conspicuous consumption. It did not go Insider’s jokes remain part of the fashion rhetoric

unnoticed that some elements of Gucci’s Cruise 2018 collection referenced a design made by Dapper

Vetements spring/summer16

Dan in 1989 without due credit to the couturier. Taking a contemporary stance towards the issue, Gucci has announced that it will be collaborating with Dapper Dan on a capsule collection and sponsoring the relaunch of a new Dapper Dan atelier.

But why are brands now embracing imitation? Of course, it depends on who’s doing the jacking. When it’s a cult brand with significant millennial pull, like say, Supreme, then both brands stand to benefit. “These subversions by designers and cult brands and the customers who buy them are in on the joke,” says Plank. “There’s no pretense, no intention to deceive; this is about humour and irony. To object would be seen to be missing the joke, meaning the joke is on you. No brand wants that.”

To not be subverted today is to not be relevant and what’s worse than being talked about? Not being talked about at all.

Brian Lichtenberg, Homiés, 2006

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FA SH I O N F EATU RE

All Roads Lead to Outer Space With cosmic connections a recurring theme on many of the season’s leading runways, is the fashion industry ready to lift off into unchartered territories?

Images courtesy of Gucci and Chanel

Words by Mary Keenan

Paco Rabanne autumn/winter17

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Inspired by space suits and rockets, these Parisian designers crafted radically new miniskirts and pantsuits.

Annakiki autumn/winter17

This season marked the re-emergence of Space Age-inspired clothing. First seen in the Sixties, and later recycled during Studio 54’s heyday, space-age ensembles returned with a vengeance across New York, Milan, London and Paris in February. Brands such as Aigner and Christopher Kane crafted experimental iridescent fabrics into sleek outer space-worthy dresses, while at Balenciaga, Philipp Plein and OffWhite ensembles in futuristic shades of silver borrowed from astronaut suits and explorative puffer coats. At Paco Rabanne, Julien Dossena took us back to the future by seeking inspiration from far away galaxies, presenting separates and dresses cut from shimmering silver chainmail that the brand’s namesake would have been proud of. David Koma’s highly exaggerated angular shoulders at Mugler resembled alien attire and master showman Karl Lagerfeld blasted off even further into the stratosphere with his Chanel Ground Control show featuring sparkly moon boots and astronaut motifs as well as a set equipped with an enormous rocket that appeared to launch through the roof of the Grand Palais.

It wasn’t just the clothes that sent showgoers into orbit, Wanda Nylon autumn/winter17

at Dolce&Gabbana the brand’s signature Sicily handbag was emblazoned with a colourful array of comets, shooting stars and rocketships while Manish Arora’s Cosmic Love collection came complete with glittery planet clutch bags slung from chain straps. Beauty looks channeled galactic glamour too with swathes of metallic eyeshadow in a spectrum of bold hues seen at Anna Sui, Maison Margiela, Versus Versace and Annakiki.

In order to understand why this trend is where and what it is today, it’s integral for us to return to the beginning.

The space race of the late 1950s and 1960s between the Soviet Union and United States had a huge societal impact globally... The era represented significant developments in exploration and unprecedented advancements in aeronautical achievements, which was reflected in the materials and silhouettes seen in fashion at the time. “Space Age style first appeared within the fashion world in the early 1960s when French designers like Paco Rabanne, Pierre Cardin, and Andrew Courrèges took inspiration from the Space Race and science fiction films to create sleek, minimalist, and, often, unisex garments in futuristic materials like plastic

and metal,” explains fashion historian Dr Kimberly

gogo boots, silver boxy dresses and goggles, while

Chrisman-Campbell. “Their designs were dramatically

Pierre Cardin presented a collection complete with

different from the grand and elegant styles of leading

astronaut helmets and dresses cut from high-shine

haute couturiers,” notes Patricia Mears, deputy director

transparent vinyl. Rabanne was tasked with designing

of The Museum at New York’s Fashion Institute of

the costumes for the science fiction film Barbarella,

Technology. “Inspired by space suits and rockets, these

which was released in 1968. Starring Jane Fonda in

Parisian designers crafted radically new miniskirts and

a series of futuristic yet undeniably sexy bodysuits,

pantsuits which were sleek, reductive, and geometric,

chainmail mini dresses and bikinis and white patent

rendered almost exclusively in white and pale colours

over-the-knee boots, the film’s outfits were not too far

with metallic and plastic trimmings.” Courrèges’ work

removed from Gucci’s present-day intergalactic warriors

in particular, which earnt the designer a personal invite

in their Gucci and Beyond autumn/winter17 campaign.

to NASA, stemmed from a deep fascination with space

The Space Age era ended in 1972 with NASA’s last

exploration which materialised in the form of white

mission to the Moon and Space Age-style waned

110 1. Dolce&Gabbana autumn/winter17 | 2. Pierre Cardin 1968 | 3. Emporio Armani autumn/winter17 | 4. Lacoste autumn/winter17 | 5. J.W. Anderson autumn/winter17

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1. Barabarella 1968 | 2. Pierre Cardin 1968 | 3. Gucci & Beyond | 4. Chanel autumn/winter17

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simultaneously, giving way to the flares, maxi dresses

seemingly never-ending terrorist activity and threats,

and psychedelic prints that went on to sartorially

could the reemergence of this trend represent a desire

define the decade.

for a better and brighter future, regardless of whether

Fashion has long been a form of escapism for many,

it’s on this planet or the next? “There is likely a link

so perhaps this season’s return to futuristic clothing

between Space-Age style and the current political

is not simply down to coincidence. A recurring theme

environment. Fashion is a good social and cultural

within pop culture too with shows like Stranger Things

barometer because it can either embrace or reject the

and recent films such as Arrival, Life, Passengers

world at large. One could say that the anti-science

and The Space Between Us broaching the subject

sentiments of some populists have inspired some

of extraterrestrial activity and humankind’s quest

designers to proactively support the role of science

to inhabit other planets. With all of this occurring

and scientists, including those who work to advance

amid the political backlash against Donald Trump,

exploration of the world beyond our planet,” reasons

heated climate change debates, the Brexit fallout and

Mears. Meanwhile, Dr Chrisman-Campbell has a

...Could the reemergence of this trend represent a desire for a better and brighter future, regardless of whether it’s on this planet or the next?

Brandon Maxwell autumn/winter17

slightly rosier outlook, “Historically, Space-Age style has been linked to optimism, not instability. I think its return reflects confidence in technology rather than government. SpaceX and NASA’s Mars explorations have ushered in a new Space Age, divorced from the geopolitics of the 1960s. A new generation of Star Wars and Star Trek films is making space trendy again. Fashion technology has advanced, too, giving us clothes and textiles produced with 3D printers and fibre optic cables. But much of this fall’s Space Age fashion is less futuristic than nostalgic for the more innocent era of the original Space Age. It’s a way of going back to the future.”

When it comes to incorporating elements of Space Age dressing into this season’s wardrobe, simplicity is essential. Picking one or two key separates that can easily be interspersed with clean and classic pieces is definitely the way to tap into this trend without looking contrived. “I think to invest into this trend, I would go for the silver skirt from Balenciaga,” advises stylist Anna Klein. “It has a simplicity that makes it work for any occasion and you won’t tire of it after wearing it a few times. My recommendation would be to mix it with basics such as a T-shirt, turtleneck, big sweater or vintage denim to get a relaxed, modern and fashionable look.” Accessories with a hint of playfulness such as Manish Arora’s colourful planet clutches or Chanel’s rocket bag are also worthy investments as they will hold their own from season to season. “I’m a big fan of Paco Rabanne’s collection and the updated classics from Courrèges. There are also some pieces from J.W. Anderson, Loewe and Ann-Sofie Back in amazing fabrics and silhouettes.”

So where does that leave us? With innovator Elon Musk teaming up with NASA to probe the possibility of colonising Mars and Richard Branson’s Virgin Galactic poised to make its first suborbital flight by the end of 2018, it turns out that the sky is most definitely not the limit, but in the meantime, we’re more than okay with biding our time and channeling our inner Barbarella by conjuring up an otherworldly smoky eye with one of Pat McGrath’s Dark Star kits and donning a pair of Chanel’s scintillating moon boots with one of Christopher Kane’s high-shine metallic cardigans.

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FIELDS OF FALL Tweed takes on a futuristic form this winter with barely-there slithers of silver thread shining through intricate weaves.

Bring knits into a new-era with glistening, high-shine footwear, head-pieces and thigh-skimming hemlines.

Photographed by MARKUS LAMBERT Styled by KELLY BALDWIN

Coat in multi-coloured fantasy wool tweed, Bermuda shorts in multi-coloured fantasy wool tweed, tights in silver polyamide, wrist warmers in pink alpaca wool embroidered with little stones and sparkling silver boots with black patent leather toe caps, CHANEL

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Dress in white crĂŞpe embroidered with black vinyl, Bermuda shorts in white crĂŞpe embroidered with black vinyl, wrist warmers in navy blue alpaca wool embroidered with little stones and metal brooch embellished with faux pearls, CHANEL

Dress in black printed chiffon, top in black coated jersey, wrist warmers in black wool embroidered with little stones, tights in black and silver polyamide and sparkling white boots with black patent leather toe caps, CHANEL

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Sweater in black embroidered wool, skirt in black sequinned cotton canvas, anthracite grey knitted headband embroidered with crystals and sparkling white boots with black patent leather toe caps, CHANEL

Grey knitted headband embroidered with rhinestones and dress in black sequinned tweed with removable collar in white duchess satin, CHANEL

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Dress in black silk tulle embroidered with black vinyl, wrist warmers in iridescent cashmere, tights in silver polyamide and sparkling silver boots with black patent leather toe caps, CHANEL

Checked tunic in sparkling black and white tulle, skirt in pearl white fantasy tweed, cuffs in silver metal embellished with faux pearls and rhinestones, tights in silver polyamide and sparkling silver boots with black patent leather toe caps, CHANEL

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Dress in black embroidered satin, CHANEL

Jacket in black and navy blue embroidered organza, top in black coated jersey, trousers in iridescent blue-green leather and tweed and sparkling silver boots with black patent leather toe caps, CHANEL

Model: Marta Pawlowska Makeup artist: Jihye Sim Hair stylist: Davide Barbieri Styling assistant: Melissa Von Doom Videography (watch on MOJEH.com): Dominic Clarke

As eveningwear enters into our psyche, futuristic high-shine elements are brought down to earth with fine and feminine florals.

Give the grown-up evening gown a contemporary twist with intricately embellished flats or precisely pointed boots.

Photographed by JESSE LAITINEN Styled by INA LEKIEWICZ

Dress and choker, DIOR

Dress, PIERRE BALMAIN @netaporter

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Dress, VALENTINO

Dress, PREEN

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Dress, SONIA RYKIEL

Scarf, CEREMONY LONDON | dress, DE LA VALI @brownsfashion | shoes, MIU MIU

Dress, MULBERRY | shoes, DIOR

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Dress, SONIA RYKIEL | shoes, MIU MIU

Dress, ELISABETH AND JAMES @netaporter

Model: Celine Delaugere Makeup artist: Potsang Ho Hair stylist: Pablo Kumin Styling assistant: Melissa Von Doom Casting director: Cicek Michelle Brown

COLOURLESS COMMAND Monochrome combinations let purposeful styling and expertly executed cuts do the talking. Keep conversational and contemporary by opting for cream rather than white and accessorise with commanding chokers and this season’s beret hat.

Photographed by DANILO HESS Styled by STACEY CUNNINGHAM

Top and dress, LOUIS VUITTON | earrings and bracelets, Eddie Borgo | Rings, Repossi

Dress, JASON WU | bag, EDDIE BORGO | choker, ISLYNYC | cuffs, RALPH MASRI | rings, HAARSTICK | ring, MARLO LAZ

Jumpsuit, CHANEL | belt and boots, LOUIS VUITTON | beret, EUGENIA KIM | earrings and ring, REPOSSI | choker and bracelet, EDDIE BORGO | collar, MOLLIE CUTLER | ring, stylist’s own

Waistcoat, trousers, cuff and earrings, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

Jacket, SAINT LAURENT | choker, EDDIE BORGO | earring, DE LARRA

Cardigan and skirt, GUCCI | top and boots, ALEXANDER WANG | belt, TOM FORD | earrings, HAARSTICK | cuff, SYD + PIA NYC

Model: Lauren De Graaf at The Society Makeup artist: Mark Edio Hair stylist: Menelaos Alevras Photography assistant: Sam Phillippe

SEASONAL S

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Bulgari’s extraordinary floral elements appear in a seductive array of warm and rich jewel tones unfold them around your fingers and let them ornament your lobes.

Wield multiple options upon the fingers for elevated impact and style with floral details to drive-home the style sentiments of the season.

Photographed by RIO-ROMAINE Styled by KELLY BALDWIN

Diva’s Dream ring in pink gold with mother-of-pearl and pavé diamonds, Diva’s Dream ring in pink gold with pavé diamonds and Diva’s Dream ring in pink gold with mother-of-pearl and malachite, BVLGARI | dress, GUCCI

Diva’s Dream necklace and bracelet in pink gold with amethyst, rubellite and pavÊ diamonds and high jewellery Extravaganza earrings in pink gold with spinels, amethysts, peridots and diamonds, BVLGARI | shirt, FENDI

Diva’s Dream earrings in pink gold with amethyst, rubellite and pavÊ diamonds, BVLGARI

High Jewellery Diva’s Dream necklace in pink gold with rubellite, amethyst and diamonds and Diva’s Dream necklace in pink gold with mother-of-pearl and pavé diamonds, BVLGARI | top, SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

Diva’s Dream necklace and bracelet in white gold with lapis lazuli, chrysoprase and pavé diamonds, Diva’s Dream rings in white gold with mother-of-pearl and pavé diamonds and Diva’s Dream ring in white gold with emerald and pavé diamonds, BVLGARI | top, VERSACE

Diva’s Dream necklace in pink gold with mother-of-pearl, carnelian and pavé diamonds and Diva’s Dream earrings in pink gold with rubellite, amethyst and pavé diamonds, BVLGARI | top, AIGNER

Diva’s Dream high jewellery earrings in white gold with round brilliant cut diamonds and pavé diamonds, Diva’s Dream ring in white gold with emerald and pavé diamonds and Diva’s Dream ring in white gold with mother-of-pearl and pavé diamonds, BVLGARI | dress, VALENTINO

Diva’s Dream high jewellery earrings in white gold with round brilliant cut diamonds and pavé diamonds, BVLGARI | dress, VALENTINO

Model: Sanje at Wilhelmina Makeup artist: Marisol Stewart Hair stylist: Ania Poniatowska

La Mini D De Dior watch, La Mini D De Dior Satine watch and La D De Dior Satine watch, DIOR TIMEPIECES

VELOCITY OF LIGHT Jewels and timepieces share craftsmanship so expertly executed they emit an otherworldly quality this season. Look to precious stones and shining facades with compelling and refreshing flashes of colour to illuminate pared-back wardrobe choices.

Photographed by RUI FARIA Styled by KELLY BALDWIN

Left page: Dior VIII Grand Bal Plissé Ruban watch, DIOR TIMEPIECES This page: Archi necklace, DIOR FINE JEWELLERY

Rose Dior Bagatelle necklace, Rose Des Vents ring, Archi ring and Bois de Rose bracelet, DIOR FINE JEWELLERY

This page: Archi earrings, DIOR FINE JEWELLERY Right page: Archi rings, Rose Dior Pre Catelan ring, Rose Dior Bagatelle ring and Bois de Rose ring, DIOR FINE JEWELLERY

Left page: La Mini D De Dior Satine watches, DIOR TIMEPIECES This page: Dior VIII Montaigne Ligne Corolle Rose watch, DIOR TIMEPIECES Model: Sibui at Next Models | Makeup artist: Linda Öhrström | Hair stylist: Davide Barbieri | Manicurist: Kate Cutler | Digital producer (watch on MOJEH.com): James Moriarty | Photography assistant: Jennifer Balcombe | Styling assistant: Rosie Borgerhoff Mulder | Makeup artist’s assistants: Asuka Fukuda and Mee Kee | Digital operator: Jean-Philippe Woodland | Casting director: Star & Co | Art and film director: Liam S. Gleeson

Compiled by Sophie Pasztor

164 H I G H N OTES

GUCCI

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1

3

ANIMAL INSTINCT The style chemistry between jewellery and animal is one that is intensifying. A new wave of novelties from designers like Van Cleef & Arpels and Roberto Coin offer an enchanting flurry of small creatures such as butterflies, beetles and dragonflies, to enhance its appeal.

1. VAN CLEEF & ARPELS | 2. ROBERTO COIN | 3. CHOPARD | 4. CINDY CHAO | 5. LYDIA COURTEILLE

4 5

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NINA RICCI

1 2

3

THINK PINK Femininity is embraced with ladylike jewels in blush shades. De Grisogono revives retro styles with a unique square-faced timepiece, while Cartier evokes romance with delicate blooms and a glamorous scattering of diamonds.

1. DE GRISOGONO | 2. ROBERTO COIN | 3. PIPPA SMALL @netaporter | 4. ZAABEL AT S*UCE ROCKS | 5. VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

4 5

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T H E EV EN T

INSPIRING INNOVATION The Event: Opening the doors to the illustrious world of haute horology, Dubai Watch Week returns for its third consecutive edition.

Dubai Watch Week (DWW) has announced its theme for this year’s event: Classic and Contemporary. The exhibition, which runs from the November 16-20, will welcome 60 leading industry legends and brands under one roof.

Audemars Piguet, Bovet 1822 (as featured above), Vacheron Constantin, Parmigiani Fleurier and Piaget are just some of names that will be in attendance.

Promising to be even bigger and better than previous years – with more masterclasses, creative hubs and panels added to the agenda – this season, DWW aims to explore the evolution of haute horology through examining the industry’s rich heritage and embracing new innovations. Melika Yazdjerdi, director of Dubai Watch Week and senior marketing and communication delighted to be hosting Dubai Watch Week for its third edition. This is a oneof-kind platform that promotes the sharing of information – everything from the individual stories behind each brand including technical movements, materials, and mechanisms to consumer trends and the future of watchmaking.”

Words by Sophie Pasztor

director explains, “Following on from its phenomenal success last year, we are

Nosheen is photographed

by Borna Ahadi in her home wearing a dress by Fendi and her own jewellery

SHAPING THE SEASON Jewellery designer Nosheen Bakhsh, the creative mind behind cultural-led brand Sheen, shares her design aesthetic and styling tips for the season ahead.

Describe the Sheen woman in three words...

Elegant, feminine and regal.

The trigger...

My love for jewellery began in elementary school - I used to

Designer must-haves...

love crafting beaded jewellery to gift to family and friends.

Rings. They are simple and comfortable for everyday wear. Also, anklets are totally underrated! I find them

Styling for the season...

so elegant and dainty; once they are on, they are

Stacking is definitely a trend to watch out for, especially

never coming off.

rings and bangles. In my new Aisha collection there are quite a few rings that come in sets of two, three,

Best for event season...

all the way up to five.

Diamonds would have been the obvious choice, but I prefer pearls. I’ve used them in many pieces, each set

Inspiration for autumn/winter17...

in different ways: hanging, complementing a piece or as

The Aisha collection is driven by the arts, crafts and

the main element of the design. I feel that no matter how

beautiful landscape of Kashmir, which is where my family

they are used, they immediately add a touch of elegance.

Interviewed by Sophie Pasztor

are from. It introduces blue sapphires which the region is well-known for and shapes and patterns that follow their

The importance of giving back...

traditions too. For example, the dome-shaped pieces which

It was through my visits to Kashmir and observing the

are common in the traditions of Indo-Asian countries.

brutality of war and the effects that it has on the region’s inhabitants, which fuelled my desire to support others.

Metal of the moment...

With every collection, Sheen donates a percentage of

Yellow gold. It has become synonymous with a more

its sales proceeds to a selected charity. Previously,

traditional and classic style over the years and even

donations were made to the Syrian crisis through

though it fell out of fashion at one point, we are starting

UNHCR and MSF, but moving forward, the cause will

to see a shift back towards it.

be related to the collection’s inspiration, Revive Kashmir.

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J E W EL L ERY & WAT C H E S

Words by Annie Darling Van Cleef & Arpel’s Pétale de Papillon clip in yellow and white gold seamlessly transforms from a sunshine-yellow and emerald-stemmed flower into a separate sapphire-studded butterfly.

The maison’s Le Secret collection is full of surprises and fragile treasures.

FALL’S FINERIES Sumptuous romanticism provides a grandiose and sensory experience this autumn/winter, with high jewellery and exceptional timepieces taking on an entrancing mood that welcomes royal blues, deep crimsons and plum-ripe shades.

The impending drop in temperature sees a light-hearted, albeit dramatic, beauty breathe new life into characterful motifs and traditional hues.

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For over a century, panther motifs have defined and directed the House of Cartier. What has since become an iconic signature first appeared on one of the maison’s wristwatches in 1914. More recently, the big cat appears on this charismatic Panthère Gardienne timepiece, which features a diamond and onyx-encrusted head that moves to reveal a hidden dial.

Taiwanese jewellery artisan Cindy Chao is an exceptional contemporary artist best known for her impossibly delicate, one-of-a-kind butterflies. These autumn leaf-moulded earrings are smothered in dream-catchingly dazzling diamonds and feature a gilded curve that delicately transitions their ebony-silver body into a bronze-kissed wing.

Refined taste and incredible precision are merged with the Lady Compliquée Peacock Emerald. This hand-engraved piece is one of the Swiss watchmaking industry’s best, having been inspired by the maison’s renowned Peacock Egg, the diamond and emerald-set dial boasts mother-of-pearl indicators and a retrograde hand-winding movement.

Wildlife Watch

Dark Nights Since 1998, Chopard has marked each year’s ultra-glamorous Cannes Film Festival with specially crafted high jewellery pieces featuring sparkling coloured stones. Original and exclusive, this dazzling diamond choker’s rich cobalt-hued jewels perfectly capture the cooler months’ darker nights, and is wholly suited for an after-hours soirée.

These bold and exquisitely shaped earrings by La Marquise are encrusted with diamonds that superbly accent flawless and bold blue sapphires, which make the creations nothing short of breathtaking. Known for utilising the finest gemstones, which are merged with whimsical designs and structures, La Marquise’s latest sapphire collection is one to covet.

Baume et Mercier’s Classima was made for men, with a satin-blue dial that boasts a minimalist design and timeless black leather strap. As autumn nights fall darker, and earlier, this sophisticated and comfortable timepiece transitions seamlessly from a daytime wristwatch to an eveningappropriate steel signature – ideal for the more daring woman.

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The Mademoiselle Privé Décor Aubazine is inspired by the French village’s 12th Century Cistercian abbey where Gabrielle Chanel spent her secluded childhood. Its 37.5mm-sized face replicates the building’s architecture and Romanesque aesthetics, which feature celestial motifs that have long inspired the maison’s high jewellery collection.

White gold and sapphire crystal is presented with hand-guillochage on a grey-blue dial crafted by Patek Philippe. Illuminated by dazzling diamonds that encircle the face, a 24hour rotating disc powered by a mechanical automatic movement made from 239 components displays 24 time zones.

Autumnal Equinox Gold, diamonds and opal make this one-of-a-kind piece by Dior a star cluster-inspired replica of the autumnal night sky. Mulberry and mauve tones are interjected with flashes of forest-green and midnight-blue.

The Grand Bal Piece Unique Galaxie Draco is set with baguette-cut diamonds and comes with a patent calfskin strap.

Umba garnets, pink tourmalines, as well as sky-blue and yellow-green sapphires are meticulously assembled to resemble bulging bouquets of prismatic flowers. The Rhapsodie Transatlantique collection by Chaumet includes this set of three brooches, which proudly boast a sophisticated elegance that’s rarely achieved, even in the most exceptional creations.

Fall Foliage The exquisite allure of warm climes and Europe’s florid nature is celebrated by Bulgari with their Tradizione necklace, which is part of the maison’s high jewellery Festa collection. A writhing, magically vibrant wreath is adorned with what resembles ripened grapes in olive-hues, designed using peridots, amethysts and tourmaline jewels.

David Morris’s limited edition watches are, without question, truly mesmerising works of art. Individually crafted and proportioned with the finest diamonds and precision Swiss movements, this forest-green emerald and diamond circular-dialed timepiece is feminine and exquisite, and guaranteed to impress both jewellery and watch connoisseurs alike.

176

Glitz and Glamour

Pink gold is celebrated in a superbly elaborate fashion with Van Cleef & Arpels’ Ruban Secret Saphirs Roses watch. Round diamonds and Barbie-pink sapphires generously adorn this thin and dainty piece, which features an oversized ribbon that adds fluidity and elegance to a couture form that screams romance and allure.

Suzanne Kalan’s Fireworks Baguette Bangle features white diamond baguettes, which are set into 18-karat rose gold using the maison’s bespoke fireworks setting. Supremely comfortable, the bracelet is also available in yellow and white gold, and becomes a standout piece when layered with Kalan’s other bangles and hand shrapnel.

18-karat pink gold lace adorns Piaget’s Altiplano Double Jeu watch. The 38mm dial is set with 12 marquise-shaped diamonds and 52 brilliant-cut diamonds, while the brand’s 430P ultra-thin hand-wound mechanical movement makes this limited-edition, state-of-the-art piece a beautifully graceful high jewellery treasure.

Brilliant-cut diamonds and a snow-set dial complete the Serpenti Incantati wristwatch by Bulgari. The maison’s iconic snake motif is present in an unusually discreet form – rather than forming the rose gold case, the reptile coils around the dial and hand-wound, openworked movement, which results in a smooth and sensual structure that’s elevated with a refined satin strap.

Changing Colours Audemars Piguet’s renowned women’s timepiece, Royal Oak, has been updated to celebrate the model’s 40th anniversary. The Royal Oak Frosted Gold is a superbly feminine contemporary wristwatch that was designed in collaboration with jewellery creative Carolina Bucci, who implemented an ancient Florentine technique to achieve the watch’s mottled finish.

De Grisogono’s superlative high jewellery proudly boasts the most exceptional jewels available, as well as eye-catching designs, which combine vibrancy and creativity with a contemporary vision that nurtures the refined taste of the Middle Eastern woman. A nuance of candy-coloured jewels twinkle in the light, and replicate the ripening hues of autumnal florals.

178

J E W EL L ERY F EAT U R E

L O C A L T A L E N T MOJEH examines the intense inspiration behind the region’s most promising homegrown jewellery talent, and discovers why these creatives are turning heads on the international circuit.

Words by Jennifer Bell

Gold necklaces, GHENEJ

Top to bottom: Pink hair piece, dancer earrings in yellow gold with blue gemstones, string dancer weiqi rings with pink, yellow and blue gemstones, ALEZAN BY SK

A new generation of UAE jewellery designers are

jewellery industry. The DGJG, itself, has played

their exceptional talent, but for the designers

striving to make their mark on the global luxury

a driving role in establishing Dubai’s status as

themselves, they see it as merely a platform for

stage – and, by doing so, establish themselves

the ‘City of Gold’, catering to the Middle East’s

what they hope to achieve: to give the jewellery

as the Middle East’s answer to powerhouses

robust jewellery demand, and it is also among the

world something it’s never seen before.

like Bulgari, Tiffany & Co, Van Cleef & Arpels,

reasons why Emirati designers are recognising

Their aim is to create collections that, in terms

and Cartier. As the nation cements its position

that this is their time to shine.

of quality and diversity, can stand comparison

as the world’s leading trading hub for gold,

They certainly don’t lack ambition, as Muna Al-

with the best, but which – through reflecting

jewellery, gemstones and diamonds, it’s also

Haddad’s horizons demonstrate. UAE-born and

central aspects of Arabic culture – have their

increasingly seeing exceptional homegrown

based, she aims to transform her brand Ghenej

own unique character. They see this as their

design talent emerge, with each up-and-

into a worldwide force to be reckoned with. The

gateway to success, recognition, and respect

coming newcomer determined to ensure their

maison was launched in 2009 and showcases

in the international marketplace.

handmade offerings – whether they are delicate

jewellery that’s influenced by Al-Haddad’s

Many UAE designers also believe that their own

keepsakes, bold and adventurous pieces, or

enduring passion for poetry, Arabic calligraphy,

personalised insight into what the wearers of

timeless accessories – become the next

and painting. Asked about her goals, she doesn’t

their pieces want, and how they would like their

collectable item that fashion editors across the

hesitate to unveil her aspiration to reach high

jewellery to reflect their personality, gives them an

world rave about and people clamour to own.

heights: “I want to become an internationally

advantage in a market that’s always looking for

Home to the Dubai Gold and Jewellery Group

renowned jewellery designer.”

something fresh and exciting. Salama Khalfan’s

(DGJG) – a non-profit trade association that

Al-Haddad, and others, have already made

brand, Alezan – a collection of fine, bespoke, and

represents companies accounting for almost

strides toward securing the visibility they are

individually handmade jewellery – is driven by the

80 per cent of the regional jewellery trade – the

seeking, within their home nation, across the

Middle East’s equestrian heritage, but she feels

UAE is positioning itself at the centre of the global

MENA region, and beyond. It’s testament to

it also chimes with the way the modern woman

180

For all their creative intensity and business focus, they are also a collective – supporting each other...

produced a diverse range of further collections, variously inspired by poetry, the Arabic alphabet, Gulf leaders, equestrianism, and pride in her country, leading to her receiving the Sheikha Shamsa bint Suhail Award for Creative Women in the UAE and gaining a clientele that includes regional royalty. Now, she aims to replicate this at international level.

Such lofty ambitions are an indication that young Emiratis are looking beyond conventional career paths and realising that they can make an impact on the world without sacrificing their dreams. In this regard, Azza Al-Qubaisi stands as a trailblazer as the UAE’s first jewellery artist, corporate gift and awards designer. She – like Al-Haddad and Khalfan – originally planned to pursue a more traditional career, and had hopes to further her education in environmental studies. But she believed art was “a calling”, Rose gold circular necklace, GHENEJ

and now the pieces she creates are well known to be thought-provoking perceptions of nature. “I have always had an interest in making things, but initially I didn’t know you

sees herself, no matter where she is in the world.

a local or regional market, but will turn heads

could study to become a jewellery designer

The main inspiration behind Khalfan’s

around the world. Having designed her first

and make it a career,” says Al Qubaisi, who,

collections is her horse, Penelope. As a former

creation in her 20s, Al-Haddad aims to do

after switching paths, formed a jewellery design

showjumper, it seems fitting that Khalfan’s

this by channelling her enduring passion for

workshop ARJMST – an amalgam of her name

brand’s name is the literal French translation

poetry, Arabic calligraphy, and painting into

and those of her siblings – in 2002. But she

for chestnut, the rich colour of her horse’s coat.

her jewellery. “In the Arab world, we have a

admits that the initial response she received

“She is a horse that has a lot of harnessed

very beautiful heritage that includes jewellery

was not entirely encouraging. “People thought

energy,” says the jewellery designer. “She is

which does not exist today,” she says”I want

my work was weird,” she explains. “It was an

forceful and strong. When you ask her to go

to bring back such beauty, ensuring that the

issue of taste, and what people were used to In

for it, she gives 120 per cent. This is the kind of

generations of today will never forget their

the past, it was about a brand, and diamonds,

woman I wanted to design for.” She adds: “I love

culture, and never be denied the beauty that

and wearing copies. People were not seeking

creating things that become part of the woman.

our grandmothers saw.”

to be different. Now people want bespoke

When she moves her head, when she dances,

Proof that her personal vision can translate

pieces – they want to be individual.”

the jewellery also moves and flows with her.”

into wider appeal is evident from the track

Al-Qubaisi

This approach epitomises the extraordinary

record she has already established. Her first

collections, and those of her peers, are gaining

extent of the creativity and imagination that

collection, Turathy, was displayed in Dubai’s

from designers and buyers alike is a sign of an

exists within the emerging Emirati jewellery

Harvey Nichols store in 2009, making it the

emerging homegrown jewellery design culture

design world, with those at the centre feeling

first Emirati jewellery brand to launch in an

in the UAE. “There are lot of young jewellery

their own unique perceptions – and the

international store, with Bloomingdale’s soon

brands in the past few years that have been

ability to turn them into luxury reality – can

following suit. Al-Haddad, who now has a

working really hard in participating in local and

create something that will not just appeal to

private boutique in Dubai’s Wafi Mall, has since

international exhibitions to put their fingerprint

believes

the

attention

her

Top to bottom: 5 way earrings, reining fan ear cuff, chevron bangle with diamonds in yellow gold, ALEZAN BY SK

on the international stage,” she says. “I admire

style,” she says. “We always try to support

Emirati jewellery design talent, that suggests

the hard work of those young designers –

each other as we work to make ourselves

the impact being made by Al-Quays, Al-

some of whom I have got to know really well

known in the global market.”

Haddad, Khalfan, and others like them, can

through local jewellery competitions which I

Meanwhile, Al-Subasi’s Lamest Ida initiative,

build into something bigger.

have established for rising designers.”

which she launched in 2011 in Abu Dhabi,

All three of these women have their individual

That is one of the cornerstones of the way

provides a workplace for talented UAE

influences and sources of inspiration, and their

this new breed of Emirati jewellery designers

designers to hone and advance their skills. She

own unique eye for design. But they are united

go about their work. For all their creative

has also established the NGO project Made in

in their ambition – for their jewellery to be as

intensity and business focus, they are also a

UAE to develop and promote Abu Dhabi’s crafts

familiar a sight on the streets of New York,

collective – supporting each other, putting a

and design world, and the jewellery exhibition

Paris, and London as it is in their home country,

framework in place for others to follow their

space Voice Gallery. Meanwhile, in 2011,

and for their work to galvanise other young

lead, and determined to show young like-

she was named the British Council’s most

Emiratis into realising where their creativity

minded Emiratis that jewellery design can be

successful UAE Young Design Entrepreneur

can take them. It is this 360-degree vision –

a successful and fulfilling career avenue. Al-

in Fashion and Design and Emirates Woman

dedication to making an international mark as

Haddad points to the support she received

of the Year in two categories: community

designers and businesswomen, spearheading

from Khalfan when she was looking to get her

contribution and business achievement.

a burgeoning Emirati industry that has the

brand up and running; now she combines her

“I do believe we need to support one another

potential to gain a high global profile, raising

own work with supporting the emerging talent

and help each other through sharing our

worldwide awareness of their culture through

looking to follow in her footsteps. “Many Emirati

experiences,” she emphasises. And it is this

the medium of jewellery, and acting as role

designers are becoming known internationally,

determination to not only achieve personal

models and mentors – that suggests the world

and I think each of us has our own signature

success, but to create a continuous cycle of

will hear, and wear, a lot more from them.

182

M O J EH WO M A N

BEAUTY SECRETS WITH

NATALIE PORTMAN MOJEH speaks exclusively with Natalie Portman about her collaboration with Rouge Dior, as well as what beauty means to her.

How has the Rouge Dior woman evolved since the last campaign?

She is still elegant and glamorous but this time she feels a little more fun and sensual.

What makes a woman ‘feminine’ in your eyes?

I think it’s all about attitude – a feminine woman is one who is comfortable in her own skin and full of desire for experience.

The colour palette of Rouge Liquid is very versatile. Which effect do you personally prefer?

It depends on the occasion, but I’m always comfortable in nudes for everyday life.

When do you think it’s best to apply a statement shade?

I think an event where you are wearing a neutral colour and want a gorgeous pop to accentuate the look. But, truly, what’s special about want to conform to what society deems ‘appropriate’. I think what’s most appropriate is what makes a woman feel her best.

To which Dior value are you the most attached?

Independence.

What do you love most about working with Peter Philips, image What makes a woman beautiful?

and creative director, Dior Makeup?

Beauty always starts on the inside. Someone who is loving, individual,

What I love most is that Peter creates individual looks for his subjects.

and passionate inside shines just as much on the outside.

He is particularly adept at accentuating the individual beauty unique to every woman. Everyone whose makeup he does always looks

What is your beauty philosophy?

like her best and true self even when he’s pushing the envelope

To drink tons of water and get a great night’s sleep. There is truly

with a new look.

nothing better you can do for yourself as a beauty routine than to give yourself rested, hydrated skin.

What is the best beauty tips you learned from Peter Philips?

He taught me I could use my greige Dior lipstick as a cream blush

Rouge Dior was created in 1953 as a result of Christian Dior’s

as well. I love getting to use one product two ways.

desire to “dress women’s smiles.” Do you think this vision is veering in a different direction?

Do you have one lipstick colour that makes you feel extra-

Rouge Dior has and always will be about the power of colour, and

confident?

Dior is using new techniques to capture the way women like to

It really depends on your mood and whatever clothing you’re putting

wear colour. I don’t think the vision is veering in a different direction

on so you can make sure they complement each other. If it’s the

but instead taking a more modern approach to reflect different

right circumstance, a bold colour can be a fun way to make the rest

personalities and moods.

of your look pop and make you feel confident.

In this new Rouge Dior campaign, you are a true rock icon. Do

Do you like to experiment with lipstick shades or have you found

you like this style in your everyday life?

a colour palette that you love and stick to?

I’m not sure I would consider my style ‘rock’ in everyday life, but it

I like to experiment from time to time, but also love a classic red like

was fun to dress up for the campaign and bring out a bit of the rebel

the Rouge Dior 999 or pink. I like to apply lip liner and then lipstick

we all have inside of us.

starting at the centre and going outwards.

Photographed by David Bellemere for Parfums Christian Dior, Makeup by Peter Philips, Hair by Bryce Scarlett, Manicure by Nelly Ferreira, Styled by Kate Young

Rouge Dior is that this line represents the woman who doesn’t always

Complexion, Diorskin Forever Perfect Mousse 020, Diorskin Forever Undercover 020, Diorskin Forever & Ever Control Loose Powder 001 | Eyes, All-In-Brow 3D Kit 001, Diorshow Pump ’n’ Volume 090, 5 Couleurs – Magnify 157 | Lips, Rouge Liquid – 999 Rock Matte

184

They said red is the colour of passion, do you feel that way?

Red definitely has the essence of passion and romance, while also being elegant.

What is your go-to makeup routine?

In my everyday life when I’m not on a red carpet, I like to keep it simple. I always start with sunscreen on my face and then wear a bit of Dior Forever foundation or makeup base, and maybe a light colour on my lips with a hint of Diorshow mascara.

From your perspective, what kind of beauty do you think young women should aspire to achieve?

Makeup can and should be something fun, but it’s important to remain true to who you are. It’s about striking the right balance and bringing out your natural features through the use of makeup.

Womanhood is having a very crucial moment right now, regarding the fight for women’s rights. What would be your words in support for women in difficult situations around the world?

The most important thing for women right now is to fight for girls’ education. That is the key to all other issues affecting girls and women.

Who has inspired you the most?

My parents.

What have been the guiding principles for you in your life so far?

To be good and have fun. My mum always says to me to live in a way you can be honest about. And also, both my parents have such a good time - always laughing and dancing and spending time with friends and engaging in cultural events and traveling. They’ve been good role models in how to enjoy life and be good to others.

You were nominated for an Oscar for your role in Jackie this year.

Which attributes do you share with Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis?

I don’t love to compare myself to characters. But I admire her How do you differentiate being the face of Rouge Dior and Miss

resilience and her devotion to the arts and to helping build

Dior? Do you think you portray different women or do you think

American cultural identity.

both roles are complementary?

I think both roles are complementary. Women aren’t necessarily just

You travel a lot for work. Have these travels changed some of

one thing at all times – sometimes we feel like being more feminine

your views?

and romantic, other times bolder and daring. It’s what makes playing

I still love to travel and explore different places throughout the world.

with makeup so fun.

Of course, that opens your eyes to other cultures, which can only serve to make you understand other points of view and experiences.

How do you take care of your lips?

I would love to visit Southeast Asia (Cambodia/Laos/Bhutan/Vietnam)

Papaw balm from Australia is a great product to keep your lips

and South America, which I know too little.

moisturized. The Dior Crème de Rose Smoothing Plumping Lip Balm is also great for keeping lips moisturized and/or Dior Lip

What is your current playlist?

Sugar Scrub for keeping lips exfoliated.

A lot of Bach, Schubert, and James Blake, Chance the Rapper and all my old hip-hop stuff, like A Tribe Called Quest.

Do you remember how old you were when you tried on lipstick for the first time?

What’s your favorite possession?

Probably when I went to the premiere of The Professional.

My wedding ring.

PASS ME THE KIMCHI Fermented foods may be the long-term cure to mood

swings and food intolerances. MOJEH discovers why this age-old tradition is gaining momentum.

a time. Unfortunately with the advancement of food, lack of time and availability of meals that are quick and easy to prepare and eat, this age-old tradition has become lost in transition.

“Fermented foods and drinks have shown to improve bowel health, relieve bloating and aid digestion and chronic fatigue, to name a few health-related issues. Furthermore, probiotic/ fermented foods are also known to help those with food intolerances, sensitivities and food allergies,” says Zenia Menon, nutritionist at Dubai Herbal Treatment & Centre. The link between food and overall wellbeing can be attributed to your gut in more ways than you can imagine. “A leaky gut is a result of poor diet choices, toxic overload, chronic stress and bacterial imbalance, and can cause malabsorption of vital nutrients like zinc, iron and vitamin B12,” says Menon.

By including fermented foods that contain probiotic cultures, you can treat digestive problems and a leaky gut. Melanie Waxman, Nutritionist and Specialist in Natural Therapies at SHA Wellness Clinic, further confirms that a healthy digestive system reflects on our immune system, energy levels, brain functioning and mood, as does Dr Mahmoud Ghannoum in MOJEH Issue 48’s feature Gut Instinct. Through his lifetime of research, Dr Ghannoum discovered that bacteria and fungi

Words by Nicola Raf, photographed by Enrique Diaz/7cero from Getty

work together to create digestive plaque in The only time you’ll most likely relish kimchi

essential bacteria grows in dairy products

the gut and his findings have been named as

is during a mouthwatering meal in a Korean

and vegetables. The process gives these

a breakthrough in internal health.

restaurant, when a hint of spice is needed to

foods a longer shelf life, after the vegetables

But why the sudden craze? Of late, fermented

elevate your meal. But what you may not know is

are submerged in a salty brine to eradicate

foods have been springing up on menus – and

that it is more than just a piquant ingredient. This

pathogenic bacteria. The good bacteria then

online – with celebrity chefs such as David

fermented cabbage is a nutritional food, hailed

breaks down lactose as well as other sugars

Chang and Jamie Oliver offering rave reviews

for its ability to heal a leaky gut. And it isn’t just

and starches in the food, making it easily

and inspirational recipe ideas. To incorporate

kimchi that’s being touted for its health benefits.

digestible while conserving nutrients. These

these foods into your diet, Barghout suggests

Sauerkraut, kefir and raw coconut yoghurt are

foods exist in the space between both fresh

eating a fermented food at least two to three

equally as nutritive, supporting the immune

and rotten states, and while that may not

times per week, whether they be organic

system while promoting beneficial bacteria

sound appealing – or smell enticing – they are

pickles that are rich in vitamin K, miso (a

cultures. “The best way to regain gut balance

preferred for their distinct flavour, creation of

paste created by fermenting soybean, barley

and create a healthy digestive system is to

enzymes, vitamins, Omega-3 fatty acids and

or brown rice with koji) that has anti-ageing

nurture your body with plenty of good bacteria.

gut-promoting abilities.

properties, vitamin B-rich and cholesterol-

Most people go for probiotic supplements;

While this may seem like a trend-to-try, the

reducing tempeh (a soybean product made

however, they are not as useful as the good

preservation process isn’t a novel approach for

with a mix of live mould), energy-booster

bacteria found in fermented foods,” says Hala

healthy living. Fermentation came into existence

kombucha (a carbonated sweet tea made with

Barghout, dietician and founder of Colour My

over 7,000 years ago (pre-refrigerator and

a mould known as Scoby), or Natto (fermented

Plate (a nutritious meal-plan delivery service).

canning method days) when seasonal produce

soybeans) that contains anti-inflammatory

So what is fermentation? It’s a process whereby

needed to be conserved for many months at

enzymes, as well as raw cheese and yoghurt.

186

TA L K ING P O I NT

THE MILLENNIAL MAKEOVER Statistics show that selfie culture and social media are causing an alarming number

It used to be a topic shrouded in speculation and with plenty

Snapchat stories and is responsible for Kylie Jenner’s infamously

of stigma attached to it, but now thanks to social media Botox

publicised pout. Ourian boasts a 2 million-strong Instagram

has emerged as one of the beauty industry’s biggest and most

following and regularly posts before and after pictures and

publicised buzzwords. No longer reserved for ageing actresses

videos of his patients to his account. Across the country in New

and reality television housewives, a new wave of millennial

York City, Dr Dara Liotta, a board-certified plastic surgeon also

consumers are causing the popularity of non-invasive procedures

shares before and after posts of her signature treatment created

– Botox in particular – to skyrocket.

especially for millennials called the LitLift, which uses Botox and

Botulinum toxin, or Botox as it is most commonly known, is

fillers to mimic the effects of contouring and strobing. And it’s

a neurotoxic protein produced by the bacterium Clostridium

clearly working, in a study by the American Academy of Facial

botulinum, commonly associated with food poisoning. The

Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery released earlier this year, over

toxin has a paralyzing effect and is injected directly into certain

40 per cent of surgeons surveyed reported that looking better in

muscles in diluted amounts causing a controlled relaxation.

selfies on Instagram, Snapchat and Facebook was an incentive

Initially used as a remedy for crossed eyes in 1977, Botox has

for their patients getting surgery. British plastic surgery group

been used to treat a variety of medical conditions over the past

Transform coined the term ‘The Dash Effect’ after reporting an

three decades including chronic migraines, uncontrolled blinking,

overnight 700 per cent increase in enquiries about lip fillers after

chronic muscle pain and excessive sweating. Approved by the

Kylie Jenner admitted to having them on an episode of Keeping

FDA for cosmetic purposes in 2002, the use of Botox has grown

Up With The Kardashians.

exponentially over the past 15 years.

“50 per cent of my patients are in their 20s to 30s,” notes

According to statistics released by the American Society of

McGoldrick. “I think that’s because there is evidence to suggest

Plastic Surgeons 1.2 million Botox injections were administered

that there is a preventative aspect to Botox. If you stop wrinkling

in 2016 and of those 10 per cent were performed on patients

your face because your muscles are inactive, you reduce the

in their 20s and 18 per cent on patients in their 30s, as well

creases you get in your skin,” he explains. “It is also probably

as almost 20,000 administered to patients in their teens. The

the most popular non-surgical treatment worldwide, so we

increase in millennial patients is a growing demographic here in

know that on pure numbers it’s safe. People are usually really

the Middle East too. “I have seen a significant rise in millennial

happy with the results they get.” As well as the preventative

patients over the last few years and I do believe that’s down to

aspect, convenience plays a part, too. “The ease of a standard

plastic surgeons, dermatologists and celebrities talking about

Botox procedure is a draw card for millennials,” states Dr Luiz

Botox on Instagram and social media and an awareness as well

Toledo, a plastic surgeon practicing in Dubai for whom millennials

as a desire to look better in selfies,” remarks Dr Rory McGoldrick,

constitute 30 per cent of his patient list. “It’s done in 10 minutes

a board-certified plastic and reconstructive surgeon based in

and has great results, plus, using Botox in the early stages of

Dubai. “On the whole, more patients are educated these days

ageing will postpone other surgical procedures and maintain a

because of social media. Surgeons are using Instagram to

younger look for a longer period of time.”

demonstrate the capabilities and limitations of certain treatments

At present there aren’t any laws in the UAE that stipulate a

to potential patients. Therefore, an increasing amount of patients

minimum age requirement for Botox. But how young is too

already know what they want when they come in.”

young? “I have patients coming in that are 21 and 22,” confides

Take Dr Simon Ourian, for example. The Beverly Hills-based

McGoldrick, “But I would draw the line at 18, I think to treat

cosmetic dermatologist has featured in Kim Kardashian’s

anyone younger than 18 with Botox is unethical.”

Winter’s Dream, Photographed by Remi Kozdra and Kasia Baczulis, MOJEH Issue 40

of millennials to turn to Botox. MOJEH investigates.

Winter’s Dream, Photographed by Remi Kozdra and Kasia Baczulis, MOJEH Issue 40

188

B E A U TY NOTE

THE BEAUTY LOWDOWN From snail slime and sheep placenta to bee venom and bull semen, the beauty industry has been known to push the boundaries when it comes to ingredients – none more so than the products crafted in Korea.

The Korean beauty industry has been responsible for some of the most unusual skincare ingredients including snail mucus, pig collagen and, now, horse oil and donkey milk – we look at these growing phenomenas.

DONKEY MILK According to historians, Egyptian Queen Cleopatra bathed and moisturised with donkey milk every day to soften her skin and prevent wrinkles, and it turns out she was onto something. Picked up as an ingredient by the K-beauty industry, donkey milk contains four times the amount of vitamin C as cow’s milk as well as vitamins A, D, E, B1, B2 and B6, casein and omega 3 and 6. Proven to help with skin conditions such as eczema, acne and psoriasis, it has a soothing and calming effect on skin. Available in soaps, sheet masks, cleansers and moisturising creams, donkey milk products are best suited to dehydrated complexions and sensitive skin.

Left to right: Donkey Milk Skin Gel Mask, SOO AE | Auto Pilot Hydrating Milk Cleanser, NAPOLEON PERDIS

HORSE OIL Derived from horse fat and containing high amounts of oleic acid and alpha-linolenic acid – a fatty acid that helps to prevent ageing and protect skin cells from the damage of free radicals – horse oil is a byproduct of the production of horse meat, which is eaten in many countries across Asia and Europe.

Ancient Eastern medicine has used horse oil in products as a treatment for scars, cuts and burns for centuries due to the anti-inflammatory properties and reparative qualities of linolenic acid. Easily absorbed by the human dermis, it is being used in hydrating masks, shampoos, creams, soaps and body washes.

Left to right: Horse Oil Hydrogel Gold Mask, GUÉRISSON | Horse Oil Body Soap, KUMANO YUSHI

THE NONSURGICAL NOSE JOB MOJEH explores this growing phenomenon within the world of beauty that means painful surgery and lengthy recovery time is a thing of the past.

“A lot of people are afraid of surgery you know. So when they hear they can do something non-invasive they obviously want to come and try it,” explains Dubai-based dermatologist Dr Hala Fadli. “That’s why this is a good option for them.” She’s referring to the non-surgical nose job – a non-invasive procedure that doesn’t require anesthesia designed to correct and improve the overall appearance of the nose using fillers, that has been gaining popularity worldwide.

Intended for people who have minor defects with the shape of their nose such as bumps, unevenness and shallow or low bridges, the procedure, which takes 10-15 minutes to complete, sees the practitioner use Botox or injectable fillers to add volume and smooth out imperfections of the nose. Where exactly the filler is injected is determined on a case-by-case basis, with some of the most common areas being on the nose bridge, below or above a bump and on the tip or sides of the nose. Recovery time is minimal and the results last from nine to 12 months. “After the injection patients may experience a little bit of redness and swelling, which is normal and will subside after a couple of hours,” notes Dr. Fadli. “It’s not painful – it’s just a tiny prick of a needle. My patients leave and can go back to work immediately.”

Like any procedure, there are risks involved – including blindness as a result of the filler being accidentally injected into the retinal artery, which controls blood flow to the eye. Compressed blood flow to the skin over the nose is another complication that can arise when filler is injected into the tip, however both are extremely unlikely. Unfortunately the procedure isn’t a solution for everyone. “We can correct the results of bad nose jobs for patients with fillers and we can elevate the tip and fix bumps,” explains British plastic surgeon Dr Rory McGoldrick. “But, there is a limit to what you can do. For example, you can’t narrow the tip of the nose and for a comprehensive change it’s still the traditional rhinoplasty.”

“Since starting my clinic in 2011, the number of patients I see for this procedure has risen steadily,” divulges Dr Fadli, “I would say it’s an even split of both men and women in their 20s and 30s that are having it done. The good thing about the procedure is that it isn’t permanent. This allows you to see if you’re happy with the results – which most people are – but if you’re not, we use a substance called hyaluronidase that will dissolve the fillers,” she continues. With a wide array of clinics in Dubai now performing the procedure, it’s important to do your homework and look for a reputable doctor with plenty of experience.

190

B E A U TY IN F O C U S

Soft shades of rose punctuate eyes and lips for a youthful romance that is beautifully offset by accompanying warm tones of chocolate.

Trial colour in unlikely places such as a graphic liner over the eyes for a modern update. Don’t be afraid to experiment with floral hair accessories that heighten glamour and draw out blush tones.

1

1. Enchanted Island Salt Spray, RAHUA | 2. Les 4 Ombres Multi-Effect Quadra Eyeshadow, CHANEL | 3. Dior Addict Lip Tattoo Long-Wear Colored Tint, DIOR | 4. Shimmer Bloc in Peach Mosaic, LAURA MERCIER | 5. Beach Stick Las Salinas Lip To Cheek Dewy Colour Pop, CHARLOTTE TILBURY | 6. Tuscan Soul, SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

2

DARE TO BLUSH

CHALAYAN

4

6 5

3

Transition your bronzed summer beauty looks into the cooler months by redirecting pigment from the cheeks to the eyes.

Your complexion should remain flawless and dewy with a very subtle dusting of colour to the cheeks. Nourishing oils restore hydration to your skin and hair, allowing for a healthy shine.

2 1. Palette Essentielle in 150 Beige Clair, CHANEL | 2. Medi Heel Rejuvenating Gold Spritz, ELIM | 3. Heatwave, PRADA | 4. Sunrise Highlighter Crayon, LAURA MERCIER | 5. Airbrush Flawless Finish in Fair, CHARLOTTE TILBURY | 6. Diorshow Bold Brow, DIOR

1

SUNSET HUES

J. JS LEE

5

3 4

6

192

M O J EH H EA LTH

RUNNING THROUGH THE AGES More women than ever before are continuing to run as they age, could it be more beneficial for our health than previously thought? MOJEH investigates.

Words by Annie Darling

For almost a decade, more women runners have

muscles.” That doesn’t mean, however, that

he tells MOJEH. “You have to remember that

been crossing the finish line than men, according

women in their 30s, 40s and 50s should stop

running is very much a skill that needs to be

to research conducted by Jens Jakob Andersen,

altogether. “Combining running with lower impact

learned and practised.” As we age, form becomes

a former competitive runner and statistician from

exercises such as swimming can help reduce

more important. “Focus more on technique rather

Copenhagen Business School, Denmark. His

pressure on the joints,” advises Olivier and,

than speed and explosiveness.” It’s also important

study, which looked at nearly two million results

despite her concerns, a 2013 study published

to adjust your training – and expectations – to

from a total of 131 marathons from around the

in the journal Medicine & Science in Sports &

the realities of ageing. “I don’t think you need

world, reports that female race participation has

Exercise found that runners were half as likely as

to slow down,” he explains. “What I do believe

skyrocketed by 27 per cent, compared to 8 per

walkers to develop osteoarthritis [a degenerative

is that you need to be more mindful of your

cent for men, and it seems that they’re not only

joint disease] or need a hip replacement.

body with reference to your lifestyle, especially

running more; they’re running better – women

Modern science and cardiovascular research

healthy nutrition, as well as rest and recovery.”

are nearly 19 per cent more likely than their male

has long argued that a regular treadmill session

For those who aren’t yet seasoned cross-country

counterparts to complete a race with a controlled

increases a person’s life expectancy, with the

joggers, a notable study published in Archives

and consistent pace.

Journal of the American College of Cardiology

of Internal Medicine suggests that taking up

Despite this, on average, women only make

publishing that, on average, runners live three

running in your 30s and 40s, even if you haven’t

up 30 per cent of marathoners worldwide, and

years longer than non-runners. Lee Harris

previously bothered with exercise, reshapes the

although most scientists don’t argue that too

is a Dubai-based fitness coach and sports

landscape of ageing. “It’s never too late to start

much exercise increases the likelihood of poor

ambassador for activewear brand, The North

a new activity,” says Olivier; in fact, it seems

health or permanent injury, many of us continue

Face. “When done right, with the right intensities

that midlife is the ideal time to take up running.

to believe the age-old myth that running as you

and consistency, as with any cardiovascular

At the 2014 Twin Cities Marathon, 59-year-old

get older will cause arthritis, cartilage breakdown,

exercise, it [running] will naturally help slow down

Californian Christine Kennedy ran an age-defying

and premature ageing – think sinking eyelids,

the ageing process by increasing cardiovascular

2:59:39 – a time many runners half her age can

crows’ feet and sagging jowls, all of which are

fitness and reducing stress and anxiety.”

only dream of. And while elite runners peak at the

often associated with mature female athletes.

Runners of any age aren’t injured because

age of 25, according to the Institute of Biomedical

“[Running] can be hard on some people’s knee

of exercise, says Harris, but because of their

Research and Sport Epidemiology, the rest of us

joints,” contends Laura Olivier, general manager

technique. “Running does produce a lot of impact

don’t peak until we’re 50, despite the fact that

at fitness boutique, DEFINE Dubai, “and too

stress on the body, which can have a detrimental

once we turn 35 our muscle mass and bone

much running can lead to inflammation in the

effect as we get older if continually done wrong,”

density decreases by 0.7 per cent each year.

The Drop, photographed by Greg Adamski, MOJEH Issue 35

RUNNING RULES KNOW YOUR LIMITS Don’t increase your weekly training mileage by more than 10 per cent per week. Joe Henderson, the first editor of Runner’s World, and Dr Joan Ullyot, an author who has published three women’s running books, first advocated the 10 per cent recommendation after noticing runners who increased their training load too quickly were incurring injuries.

THE RIGHT SHOES Before the Eighties, manufacturers didn’t make women’s running shoes and, instead, sold smaller versions of men’s trainers. Finding the right style is imperative – your heel and instep should feel supported but not tight. Check out Under Armour’s UA SpeedForm Gemini 3 for lightweight comfort, or Nike’s Free TR Flyknit Sneakers for natural movement.

STRENGTH AND ENDURANCE Strength training is often excluded from many runners’ routine workouts, but it’s the backbone of agility and endurance, and will dramatically decrease the risk of injury. Head to The Gym “Believing that you’re still in your 30s, 40s and

Anyone taking a skill or discipline on board has

in Business Bay’s state-of-the-art Vision Tower

50s when you’re not is the biggest danger,” says

to ‘walk before you run’, and this is no different.”

for variety or, if you prefer to train alone, try out

Omar Al Duri, fitness trainer and ambassador

Honesty and acceptance increases the chances

some floor exercises and hill workouts that

for Sun & Sand Sports. “Our bodies develop

that a mature woman will either begin or continue

improve your core stability.

with age and we have to adapt to that. Muscle

to enjoy running. “Some love to run, and some

memory is on our side, and as long as we are

prefer to sprint or do intervals, which requires

STAY INSPIRED

looking after our engine then the body should

short but more explosive movements. Music

Tracking statistics like time, pace, distance and

drive smoothly.” Accumulated ‘wear and tear’

may play a big part when running long distances

elevation will give new runners a hefty dose of

makes older runners less flexible, and recovering

or finding your rhythm and pace.” Whatever

self-confidence and inspiration. Phone apps like

from hard workouts takes longer, but the key

the person’s approach or preference, scientific

RunGo are ideal for adventurous runners who

to success lies in each workout’s individualised

research continues to refresh the idea that

travel frequently and like to explore new cities.

pace, says Al Duri. “I would recommend following

running has very real and genuine benefits for

RunGo provides real-time voice navigation and

a training programme where you track your

the older woman, and evidence suggests that

suggests the best routes near your area, and

progress, especially if you have never ran before.

they’re more than happy to enter the ballot.

allows you to save maps offline.

194

M O J EH H EA LTH

A HIGHER STATE Cluttered with notions that span from mundane to morbid, for some, time spent alone with their thoughts is the ultimate punishment. Transforming creativity, confidence and physical health, MOJEH considers the payback of a tutored mind.

Words by Laura Beaney

My mind is the equivalent of a hoarder’s purse, brimming with

the human race would be extinct. There needs to be a balance

ATM receipts, cinema ticket stubs, calling cards from taxi

between the two, but a study by Moshe Bar, a neuroscientist

drivers in countries I rarely visit and even the odd crumpled

and director of the Multidisciplinary Brain Research Center at

tissue. At any one time there’s myriad information spiralling

Bar-Ilan University suggests that our internal exploration, which

around. Thoughts dart between the mundane and ever-present

can yield innovation, creativity and fulfilling new experiences, is

wanderings of a typical mind like memorising grocery lists

diminished by an overly occupied (or messy) mind.

and pondering whether 6pm is too late to drink coffee, then

Long stints alone with our thoughts can be torture – just

there’s the more pensive notions – the habitual suppliers of

ask anyone who has trouble sleeping. Insomniacs toss and

mental load like: ‘Is that pain in my head normal?’ Or ‘How’s

turn desperately trying to quiet restless thoughts. Indeed we

the situation in Syria?’ While these pressing thought patterns

often credit our ugliest emotions with lack of sleep – stress,

tend to manifest as anxiety, stress, and depression, both ways

anxiety, guilt and fear – and at night there’s nowhere to hide

of thinking consume considerable mental capacity, stunting

from negative notions. Daylight offers temporary respite – its

our creativity and limiting our ability to experience pleasure. It

monotonous tasks, continuous flow of interactions and social

sounds cheesy but while we spend our minutes bemused by

feeds fill the hours – but destructive thoughts can re-emerge

brain fog, we are too occupied to absorb what’s in front of us

when the external simulation goes away. “If we’re constantly

and become a bystander in our own life.

filling our awareness with social media and information, we can

To further understand this mess in our minds our brains operate

lose touch with how we’re actually feeling in the moment,” says

in a state of tension between exploration and exploitation. In

Dr Tara Well, a professor of psychology at Columbia University

exploratory mode, we consider things with a wide lens; we’re

who is currently conducting laboratory studies on how mirror

inquisitive and thirsty for knowledge. But when we’re in an

meditation – the practice of looking at oneself in the mirror for

exploitative state we look to what we already know, falling back

10 minutes a day, with no goal other than to be present with

on old information to provide the comfort of an unsurprising result

yourself – reduces stress and increases self-compassion. “Our

or setting. We tend to be more exploratory when on holiday,

attention gets hijacked by our devices and that can often be

finding our feet in a new country, whereas times of exploitation

a welcome escape from feeling lonely in the moment – but it

often come when under physical or emotional duress, like

perpetuates the problem because it becomes even more difficult

returning home and tackling dinner and chores after the long-

to be with ourselves without seeking distraction,” she continues.

haul flight. Both pathways are fundamental to progression.

From emersion in mundane tasks to more extreme actions,

Without exploration, the world would have remained flat; but

some are prepared to go to great lengths to escape alone time

without exploitation, we would have taken too many risks and

with their mind. In a 2014 study carried out by psychologists

Fierce, Fresh and Freethinking, photographed

by Anthony Arquier, MOJEH Issue 43

196

at Harvard and the University of Virginia, 42 college students

and meditation help us slow down and land in the present

were left to sit alone in a bare, undecorated room, thinking freely

moment,” says Wells. “Making time on a regular basis to do

for up to 15 minutes. The feedback afterwards was that most

your practice can build emotional resilience and help manage

found it difficult to concentrate and around half confirmed that

stress because it makes it easier to come back to yourself and

they didn’t enjoy the experience. Taking the experiment a step

be aware of how you’re feeling in the moment.” And while the

further, a new study found that being left alone in an empty

studies say we prefer to do rather than to think, even if what

room was so unpleasant that many elected to give themselves

we are doing is so unpleasant we’d normally pay to avoid it,

electric shocks. The participants were first asked to rank the

by simply being alone and looking at yourself, you gain greater

unpleasantness of a shock and say whether they would pay

self-awareness, grow to feel more comfortable in your own skin

a small fee to avoid having to experience it again. They were

and eventually, quiet the restless mind.

then left alone again for 15 minutes and given the opportunity to shock themselves at will. Summarising their findings in a report for Science journal, researchers wrote: “What is striking is that simply being alone with their own thoughts for 15 minutes

MINDFUL MODES

was apparently so aversive it drove many participants to selfadminister an electric shock that they had earlier said they would

THE APP. HEADSPACE

pay to avoid.” After all, when we seek to break a prisoner’s

Headspace founder, Andy Puddicombe cut his degree short

deviant spirit, we send them to solitary confinement – our

to immerse himself in meditation. He spent over 10 years in

harshest level of human discipline.

training travelling across the world and was eventually ordained

For years, medical professionals and wellness practitioners

in the Indian Himalayas. An excellent entry into daily practice, the

alike have considered a positive mindset to be the absence of

techniques used within the Headspace app have been refined and

a negative one, but stating that humans are unable to enjoy our

developed over many centuries. Their aim is to cultivate awareness

own thoughts suggests that our mental flora should be eternally

and compassion through short daily mental exercises so we

blooming. “Mindfulness is about observing thoughts and feelings

can better understand both the mind and the world around us.

without judgment or criticism,” writes Headspace founder, Andy Puddicombe on his blog. “Instead, simply acknowledge the

THE RETREAT. BALI SILENT RETREAT, MOUNT BATUKARU

feeling, recognise it is part of being human and understand

The aim at Bali Silent Retreat is to maintain eco-green-off-

that all human beings experience something similar – even if

grid standards while supporting a personal, spiritual journey.

it sometimes feels we are the only one.” Indeed, our negative

The lush Bali space includes hot springs and is Wi-Fi-free,

thoughts serve a purpose just as physical pain warns us of an

and chat-free supporting internal contemplation. Stays range

injury that needs to be addressed; it’s more about cultivating

from three days to one-week and there’s no set daily schedule

healthy thought flow and channelling mental clutter. “We tend

meaning visitors can spend their time in silent meditation

to view loneliness as an enemy or some sort of punishment,”

while roaming the rice fields, practicing yoga, or partaking

says Wells. “Time alone can help you feel more comfortable

in New Earth Cooking classes that involve preparing healthy

in your own skin and you can make your own choices without

dishes with ingredients from the retreat’s medicine garden

outside influences. It can help you develop more insight into who

– it’s about silencing the mind but on your own terms.

you are as a person,” she continues. “Research finds that the ability to tolerate being alone is linked to increased happiness,

THE BOOK. A PATH WITH HEART BY JACK KORNFIELD

better life satisfaction, and improved stress management. And

Credited with introducing the practices of mindfulness and

people who say they enjoy their alone time are less likely to

meditation to the West, Jack Kornfield’s A Path With Heart, is

experience depression.”

regarded by many as the most important book yet written on

While anger and negative thoughts are natural without due

meditation. Having developed his practice in Thailand, India, and

attention, our ever-wandering mind can become a tax on our

Myanmar, Kornfield has been teaching meditation internationally

quality of life. It’s important to realise when the proverbial purse

since 1974 and his book is rife with the wisdom and methods

is brimming with excess receipts and have the resources to

he accumulated on the way. Ideal for those seeking detailed

address it. Meditation is one avenue that facilitates this state,

direction, Kornfield systematically walks the reader through

providing the means to be able to quiet the mind at will. “Yoga

some of the notable challenges that arise during meditation.

Photographed by Julia Chernih at The Factory ME, styled by Sophie Pasztor

Our obsession with green juices and the all-important superfoods has spilt over into the realms of skincare. The recent crop of good-for-you-ingredients such as kale and orange, have picked up steam with brands like Éminence and Kiehl’s. The vitamin-rich foods contain formulas that promise to boost skin’s hydration and fight off free radicals.

Clockwise from top left: Cilantro & Orange Extract Pollutant Defending Mask, KIEHL’S | Ginger Flight Therapy, AESOP | Citrus & Kale Potent C+E Masque, ÉMINENCE

198

M O J EH H EA LTH

ABSTINENCE AND ABUNDANCE A culturally rich ideology that’s once again gaining momentum as an avenue for weight loss, mental clarity, and overall wellness, MOJEH asks whether fasting should become an integral element of our existence.

Winter’s Palace, photographed by Amber Gray, MOJEH Issue 23

The minds that populate the Silicone Valley are said to be some of the greatest on the planet,

Word on the street is that Silicon Valley workers regularly practice fasts.

so if there’s a lifestyle trend that’s raging among them it comes with a tad more credibility than those found flourishing between the neighbouring Orange County housewives. Their current approach to eating is gimmick-free, carries deeprooted foundations spanning religion, culture, and scientific research and is actually nothing new. Word on the street is that Silicon Valley workers regularly practice fasts that last between 36 and 60 hours once a week, observing that this adjustment results in greater mental clarity, increased productivity, and ultimately, healthy weight loss. But how exactly does dietary abstinence better our body and mind?

Scientific research in this field dates back to the 1930s when scientists in the USA and Russia began to explore the benefits of fasting on the body and brain. The first experiments showed that mice put on calorie restricted diets lived significantly longer than their counterparts who ate as normal. Historically, fasting has also been an integral part of our lifestyle; our ancestors (the hunter-gatherers) went through times of feast and famine, often forced to spend days at a time without food awaiting the next big kill.

Today we’re a much more sedentary species, taking the lift rather than the stairs and seldom looking up from our screens, yet we still consume a considerable amount of food resulting in energy that might go unused and can manifest itself as obesity and other metabolic disorders. “Fasting can be compared to surgery without a knife,” explains Dr Harold Strossier, a practitioner at Viva Mayr Maria Worth, a revered clinic that prescribes medically supervised fasting as a treatment for a spectrum of ailments, from diabetes to cancer.

“The latest research into physiology shows that fasting has a positive influence on lifespan, and on health in general, it reduces the risk of cancer, most of our civilian and rheumatic diseases, and of course it influences our weight and helps to protect against obesity. Fasting not only lets us

200 reset the body and remove physical waste but it also has the potential to clear the mind and have an emotionally cleansing process,” he continues.

Indeed our bodies are designed to fast, they do it every night. During times of fasting the body gets rid of old, broken-down cells and creates new ones, but if you’re snacking regularly this simply doesn’t happen. Intermittent fasting has also been shown to boost levels of BDNF (brain-derived neurotrophic factor), which plays a critical part in protecting you from dementia and depression. One of the modern pioneers in the link between mental health and fasting is Professor Mark Mattson, head of neuroscience at the National Institute on Aging in the USA. He has shown that when you put mice on a 5:2 diet they grow new brain cells, particularly in the areas of the brain associated with memory.

He is currently doing human studies, looking at whether 5:2 intermittent fasting can protect people at risk of dementia. Another important benefit, Fasting is said to be Silicon Valley’s health craze du jour with its inhabitants saying the practice contributes to their focus and productivity, so naturally an app soon followed. Drily named for the amount of food consumed during a fast, Zero is a tracker that helps users sync their fast with their biological clock. The app takes the user’s location and calculates sunset as well as ticking down the hours until the fast begins.

which has been proven in many trials, is that it improves insulin sensitivity, which is a measure of how well your body is able to deal with excess sugar in the blood. “If you are insulin insensitive that means your pancreas is having to produce ever larger amounts of insulin to bring your blood sugar levels back to normal,” says Dr Michael Mosley, author of The Fast Diet and The 8 Week Blood Sugar diet. “Eventually your pancreas packs in and you become a type 2 diabetic.” On top of that Mosley notes that calorie restriction and intermittent fasting are the only things that have consistently been shown to delay the ageing process. “Intermittent fasting not only means your body gets the chance or repair and replace old cells, it also revs up your body to protect itself against molecular damage.”

Looking at fasting through the lens of faith, we can see that all major religions from Catholicism prescribed cutting back on food as a means to clear the mind, enhancing enlightenment and tightening the relationship between the individual and their spirituality. This being said, we all know what it’s like to walk into a meeting, stomach growling having skipped breakfast. For the average person juggling office interactions, exercise and social commitments, while integrating fasting into their daily routine can seem like a completely alien prospect, so what’s the best way to begin?

Looking to fasting as a method of weight loss, the 5:2 diet, also known as intermittent fasting, is a favourite among models and Hollywood elite. It entails following five days of regular eating patterns followed by two days of severe calorie restriction (cutting down to around 500 calories). It’s a simple solution for foodies who don’t wish to negate their favourite dishes and it’s one of the few forms of intermittent fasting that has been properly tested in clinical trials.

Fasting comes in many formats ranging from going without food for weeks on end to cutting your calories a couple of days a week or not eating during daylight hours. “The main disadvantages with going on a long fast are two fold. First, it is hard (I’ve done it!) and it’s safest done in a supervised setting as there are risks,” warns Mosley. “Secondly, your body does not store

Words by Laura Beaney. Images courtesy of Dr. Michael Mosley and Buchinger Wilhelmi Clinic

to Islam, like the Silicon Valley workers, have

Practicing medically guided fasting in striking natural surroundings for the last 60 years, Buchinger Wilhelmi is a clinic for therapeutic fasting and integrative medicine facilitating guests with a tight web of medical doctors, nurses, therapists, personal trainers and many other professionals. Their medically equipped facilities attract guests seeking treatment for metabolic diseases like type 2 diabetes and hypertension as well as chronic inflammatory diseases like arthritis.

protein and we need protein to build things like our

with, and it’s not suitable for everyone. “I would

white cells, that defend our bodies from infection.

not recommend it for pregnant women, people

If you go without any protein for more than a

who are underweight or anyone who has a history

day or so then your body will start to scavenge

of emotional issues with eating,” warns Mosley.

protein from your muscle.” For those looking to

It’s also important that you drink at least seven-

fast unsupervised, Mosley advises intermittent

to-eight glasses of water each day during a fast,

fasting, in the vain of the famed 5:2 diet where,

as you lose a lot of water when you burn fat and

for two days a week calories are cut down to 800

may incur headaches. From faith to tech workers

and a healthy diet is maintained on the remaining

and those in the field of medical science, one

five. Another way to dip one’s toe into intermittent

recurrent theme drawn from the feedback is that

fasting is what Strossier describes as ‘dinner

our approach to food in the Western world is

cancelling’ the process of simply skipping dinner

excessive and has the potential for a manifold

each day. “We know this is scientifically proven,

of negative effects. Whether looking to fasting

dinner cancelling expands the lifespan,” he says.

as an avenue for mental clarity or considering

As with any change to lifestyle and diet, intermittent

it for overall health, it’s critical that we evaluate

fasting can be quite challenging, at least to start

closely how much food our bodies actually need.

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TA L K ING P O I NT

WHAT MEN WANT In light of recent research, MOJEH asks why multibillion-dollar beauty companies lack powerful women business leaders.

Words by Annie Darling

It goes without saying that there are lots of

absent from this much-needed conversation.

Clinique La Prairie has just revealed its latest

luxury companies for the modern beauty

Dawn Watt is global PR manager for FOREO,

innovative product, Skin Caviar Absolute Filler,

enthusiast to treat themselves to – many of

a cosmetics company that specialises in

which returns lost density while simultaneously

which the MOJEH woman has already had the

technically advanced beauty products that firm

reshaping and redefining the contours of the

opportunity to test and try. Quite apart from

and nourish skin. During a thought-provoking

face. Its success, says Gibertoni, along with

providing an excellent (and sometimes much-

discussion with MOJEH, Watt explains why, in

the brand’s exceptional reputation, is based

needed) source of quick fixes, beauty counters

an industry that’s principally aimed at female

on “the famous mantra of being ‘global and

are also a great place to hunt down the latest in

consumers, men occupy the vast majority

local’ in the same moment”, which cannot be

grace, glamour, and youthfulness. What many

of management positions. “A lot of CEOs at

done, she adds, without diversity. For Watt, it’s

of us don’t know, however, are the details

beauty companies are poached from existing

important to note that the beauty industry fares

about who spearheads these highly coveted

successful businesses beyond this industry,

better in comparison to other sectors such as

lipsticks, luminisers, foundations and primers.

and have proven track records in, for example,

health, banking and energy and further contests

Behind-the-scenes, products found stacked on

tech companies or publishing,” she explains.

that male leaders can be extremely beneficial

shelves in-store are concocted and constructed

“They all come from that same pool of high-

to a beauty company’s success. “A male CEO

with enthusiasm and dedication, and in recent

earning, high-powered executives, and they’re

in a beauty company isn’t inherently negative,

months, the multibillion-dollar beauty industry,

very attractive to shareholders.”

but it [beauty] is a strangely lopsided industry

which sells primarily to women, has made

Be that as it may, it’s been proven that

in that respect,” she says. “The problem, if it

headlines for being driven predominantly by men.

increasing the number of women in leadership

is a problem, is not endemic to the beauty

Various industries have come under scrutiny

positions improves a company’s bottom line.

industry, but represents a much broader gender

over their lack of gender representation in

A study by Harvard Business Review suggests

bias in business generally.” And while there are

upper management. Although significant

that boosting females in upper management

“promising signs of progress”, she acknowledges

progress has been made, with 40 per cent

from zero to 30 per cent is associated with

that “we can see that the wider industry is

of today’s global workforce female, only 5 per

a 15 per cent increase in profitability. Simone

currently still far from egalitarian at the top.”

cent of chief executive officer [CEO] positions

Gibertoni, CEO of Clinique La Prairie, one

Gibertoni expresses her admiration for female

are held by women, according to analysis by

of the world’s most iconic Swiss brands,

role models, and stresses their importance

CNNMoney. The technology sector, in particular,

tells MOJEH that change that’ll increase the

in empowering the next generation of beauty

has found itself in the hot seat earlier this year

number of women leaders is “inevitable”. “Far-

business owners and consumers. “I have been

after salary database Comparably released

sighted management in a global sector where

lucky,” she says warmly, “in both my experience

a study highlighting the industry’s pay gap,

there are so many regional differences and

in consulting and later in the world of beauty.

revealing that women under the age of 25

specificities must be able to put together a

I have worked with a lot of women, many of

earn on average 29 per cent less than men

heterogeneous team that brings innovation

whom are in positions of great responsibility.”

the same age. Interestingly, up until now

and uniqueness, and at the same time is able

Watt agrees that mentors are essential to

leading beauty companies have been largely

to respond to different local needs.”

increasing the number of women holding

Blonde Ambition, photographed by Nicolas Valois, MOJEH Issue 20

powerful positions. “[Current statistics] boil

being made.” Coty, for example, which owns

by men. “[It’s important] to encourage men

down to the limitations on women in business

several influential brands such as Covergirl,

currently occupying those positions to take

education, and to hiring processes,” she

Sally Hansen, OPI and Philosophy, had no

a more positive attitude towards diversity,”

explains. “Women should be encouraged to

women on its board until earlier this year, having

insists Watt. “Speaking very frankly, it

get into business education courses, and the

previously employed an all-male executive team.

would be very useful to see some of those

industry should make business ownership more

“It [diversity] is absolutely key to our [beauty

influential men using their influence to make

attractive to women by forcing a change in

industry’s] success: that blend of backgrounds,

the changes we want to see.” While it’s no

conventional attitudes.”

viewpoints, experience and intuition is incredibly

secret that we have yet to achieve equal gender

A new wave of women-led start-ups including

valuable,” says Watt. “That can’t be taught – it

representation in the business world, there’s

Birchbox, Glossier and Ipsy are doing just that.

can only be the result of diversity.”

little doubt that lasting change is taking place,

“When it comes to empowering women to be

Demonstrating fairness, however, requires

which will better meet the needs of today’s

business owners, we [FOREO] are entirely

support from those who already hold

modern women. After all, the more we (as

supportive,” smiles Watt. “It’s an exciting time,

upper management positions – and, as

beauty enthusiasts) are able to help direct and

because changes are real, and progress is

aforementioned, these tend to be occupied

develop products that empower us, the better.

204

M O J EH W O M A N

You launched the base first, why is this such a priority for you and what did you do differently to existing makeup brands when formulating your tones?

One of the things that I felt was really important to start with was foundation. Foundation is one of those areas in the beauty industry that has a big void for women at extreme ends of the shade spectrum. There’s this middle ground that’s covered really, really well. But then if you’re very pale or if you’re very dark, there aren’t a lot of options. And so, I wanted to make sure that women of all skin tones were covered so they could be included in what I created.

We worked really long and hard on the texture of each formula. It was really important to me that each product is made to easily build and layer with lightweight textures that are flexible even when you want to re-apply.

FIVE FENTY BEAUTY INSIGHTS FROM RIHANNA

How will future launches reflect your signature style?

seasoned pro when it comes to an elevated beauty

How will the range work for the diverse aesthetics

regime, MOJEH catches up with Rihanna as her

highly anticipated Fenty Beauty brand hits the shelves, discovering more about its universal allure.

bold lip colours?

From here on out, it’s only about having fun. We could do so many things here. There are endless options when it comes to makeup.

As a musician, why the jump into the beauty industry and what’s so appealing to you about makeup?

My lifelong obsession with makeup started with watching my mom put her makeup on. I always loved to watch her, and all the funny faces she was making in the mirror. I never understood it until I got older and fell in love with makeup myself and really started becoming obsessed.

I love that makeup has so many colours, so many options, so many ways to create looks, so many moods that you can express through different products. I think makeup is one of the most fun ways to express yourself.

Describe your go-to makeup routine.

The Fenty Face was created for women of all skin tones, of all personalities. I wanted to share a look that every woman feels they can wear every day, and at any occasion, and at any age. It’s been my go-to method for years: the foundation, the concealer, the contour, the highlight, the mattifying powder— and then, go! These steps are key to starting your makeup, no matter the look you’re going for.

of Middle Eastern women?

Fenty Beauty was created for everyone: For women of all shades, personalities, attitudes, cultures, and races. I wanted everyone to feel included. That’s the real reason I made this line.

Images courtesy of Fenty Beauty

A name synonymous with stylistic integrity and a

For example, can we expect to see your signature

206

M O J EH NEW S

Culture Coming From the app launch set to shake up the art world to the Middle Eastern culinary icon making its mark in London, and Yayoi Kusama: Infinity Mirrors, the hottest exhibit ticket to hit the West Coast, here MOJEH consolidates October’s cultural highpoints.

ArteVue Launches With Inaugural Art Prize ArteVue, is a first-of-its-kind app designed to upheave the status quo and unite the art world in an instant on a single platform. For curators and gallerists, it’s the ultimate platform for finding the next big thing, and for collectors, the stage on which new work by artists from across the world can be acquired. The app offers art enthusiasts the opportunity to curate their own galleries, finding and pinning works; it also allows artists to upload their portfolios and create professional catalogues. ArteVue includes buy and sell options and enables curators and gallerists to contact artists directly.

With the winner set to be announced November 20, ArtePrize 2017 is a non-profit competition running in parallel to the app launch affording young artists the chance to win a cash prize of AED 55,095 and an all expenses paid, artist residency at the Delfina Foundation in London.

ArteVue available on iPhone and iPad

Bahrain’s Villa Mama’s opens in London, September 25 An icon in the Bahrain food scene, Villa Mama’s is known across the GCC for its exquisite take on home-cooked, local cuisine. Now, the restaurant has a second location having recently opened its first branch outside the Middle East in London. The food in the new outpost will continue to fly the flag for authentic Bahraini cuisine, including dishes like lamb and feta koftas with cherry molasses, and saffron rice cake with spiced chicken and pine nuts.

Elystan Street, London, UK

The Line of March, by Pouran Jinchi, September 13 – October 21 Pouran Jinchi’s works have been featured in global exhibitions spanning New York, to London, Dubai, Jeddah, and Tokyo. This exhibition returns to a fundamental preoccupation of the artist: the parallels between art and language as avenues for communication. The exhibition’s title is taken from a painting by the 18th Century French artist Jean-Antoine Watteau, who depicted the lives of soldiers in times of war.

Jinchi studied photographs of Koblenz, where architectural fragments that remain from the destruction of World War II have been woven into modern architecture and in parallel to this her notes explore how military jargon now permeates common language.

The Third Line, Street 6, Al Quoz 3, Dubai, UAE

The Graduation (Claire Simon) This fly-on-the wall release documents the long and arduous admissions process of France’s most prestigious filmmaking institution, La Femis – a state-run, extremely selective and highly funded institution whose alumni include such names as François Ozon and Arnaud Desplechin. This French documentary by director Claire Simon (Gare du Nord) offers a privileged insight into the institution’s unique method of picking its pupils.

Yayoi Kusama: Infinity Mirrors, October 21 2017 - January 1 2018 The eagerly awaited exhibition of the 88-year-old artist arrives at The Broad. Yayoi Kusama: Infinity Mirrors is the first visiting special exhibition to be hosted at the contemporary art museum and will explore the celebrated Japanese artist’s famed immersive Infinity Mirror Rooms. The set-up will provide visitors with the unique opportunity to experience six of Kusama’s infinity rooms – the artist’s most iconic kaleidoscopic environments – alongside large-scale installations and key paintings, sculptures and works on paper. Highlights include her most recent edition, All the Eternal Love I Have for the Pumpkins (2016).

The Broad, Los Angeles, USA

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A RT IS T IN EX H I BIT ION

P

E

A C

E

Creative and author Zena el Khalil seeks to help her city heal and move into the future through an artistic collective that confronts the violence, pain and conflict of war. MOJEH visits the exhibition in Beirut, Lebanon.

Words by Nadine Kahil

Cover. Courtesy of Zena el Khalil

Space without the dark could not hold the stars. Ink, ash, pigment and embroidery on canvas. 90 x 90 cm. 2017

Zena el Khalil, author of Beirut, I Love You, brings together an artistic collective to explore issues of violence, pain and conflict during war. At incredible mixed-media exhibitions and workshops in Lebanon’s famed Beit Beirut, the artist seeks to provide the city with an art platform for peace and reconciliation. Displayed at an iconic space at the intersection of Damascus Street and Independence Avenue, the collection of events – running until October 27 and entitled Sacred Catastrophe: Healing Lebanon – highlights the role art has to play in mental and social reconstruction following a conflict.

Catastrophe: Healing Lebanon certainly is.

exhibition is to transform Beirut into a ‘city of

El Khalil will be working with two curators:

The exhibition, accompanied by numerous

light’, using Beit Beirut, a relic of our war or

Janine Maamari of Liban Art, based in Lebanon;

events, including workshops, conferences,

wars, to share my belief that art and culture

and Beatrice Merz of the Fondazione Merz in

performances, concerts and debates, will

can have a positive impact on society, and that

Turin, Italy. Alongside artwork and installations,

animate Beit Beirut, a symbol of the troubled

this exhibition aims to transform what was once

a series of collaborators will present a wide

history of Lebanon’s war. The building is located

a symbol of violence into a platform for peace

variety of events, lectures, talks and workshops.

on the former Green Line, on what was a ‘no-

and reconciliation.” Within this most powerful

Each and every event or piece is rooted in the

man’s land’ during the Lebanese civil war, which

of settings, the artist is bringing together

art of healing and El Khalil believes that this

served as a demarcation line dividing the city

a collective of creatives, including works,

collaboration can help turn Beit Beirut into a

into two. For the Beit Beirut exhibition, El Khalil

presentations and installations by herself and

communal space that will offer an opportunity

presents a series of paintings, sculptures, sound

others such as Ginou Choueiri, Mona Hallak,

for exchange and dialogue, as well as a platform

and video works distributed over the four floors

Dima Matta and Cliffhangers and more.

for reconciliation with one’s inner and outer self.

of the building. The works presented in the

On the first floor, El Khalil presents paintings

“The core of my work has consistently been

exhibition are the result of a working method

she makes using intricate fabrics, such as

about taking an idea or object of violence and

the artist has pursued in recent years, a process

kuffiyehs dipped in a black ink she creates

transforming it into something peaceful. To

that begins with healing ceremonies in places

from ash and pigment. The photography and

reconnect to love, in the most impossible of

that have endured violent experiences such as

videos describe the places where healing

situations. The love that is the essence of who

massacres, torture of human beings and also

ceremonies have been held, showing the state

we are; the subatomic texture of the universe,

environmental disasters.

of destruction as a result of the war. Words of

the dark matter that connects everything,” says

“This beautiful yellow war-torn building [Beit

peace, love, forgiveness and compassion are

the artist. The goal is clear, to tackle conflict,

Beirut] in Sodeco, was once home to militias

again the protagonists of ceramic and stone

violence and discord through the creation

and snipers, and is located on what was the

sculptures. A sound installation fills the entire

of something unique – and unique; Sacred

Green Line,” says El Khalil. “My aim with this

exhibition space, linking all works together.

210 Finally, on the second and third floor, there is Zena el Khalil’s performance of ‘Three Druze Women’ in and around the Beit Beirut, Lebanon.

1998. Photographed by Yarob Marouf

a single large installation, a ‘forest’ of memory in remembrance of the 17,000 people declared missing in the conflict. An intense experience, Sacred Catastrophe: Healing Lebanon is set to be heart wrenching, yet also to offer hope for the future, hope exhibited in the creative powers of the artists El Khalil has brought with her.

Lebanon’s turbulent past, and present, significantly impacted El Khalil. Returning to Beirut after spending time abroad in the midNineties, the artist and city grew together.

Walking the streets of Lebanon’s capital, El Khalil took in as much as she could, discovering the vibrant history of this most iconic of cities. “I was open to receive and she was ready to share. As Beirut was being rebuilt, I followed traces of her history… learnt about her past, that went back thousands of years ago. It felt as if I had been coming to Beirut for many lifetimes. Everything was new yet so familiar,” she says. It is this experience that fuels much of el Khalil’s work, her love for the city and her desire to help heal it.

Site specific paintings. (Abandoned) Grand Hotel Sawfar, Lebanon. Variable sizes. 2015

Grand Hotel Sawfar 1. Ash, ink and pigment on canvas. 240 x 145 cm. 2015

El Khalil’s paintings are site-specific and focus

who we are as individuals, as well as a society

daily Arabic vernacular. It also breaks global

on areas; places that have seen suffering.

and, through their very horror, give a glimpse

stereotypes, fuelled by ‘the war on terror’

Environmental disasters, torture, death – El

of what might be possible. It is this hope that

imposed on the Arabic language and culture.

Khalil has seen the aftermath of it all, from

inspires El Khalil, the idea that one must hit

Through global participation in painting these

destroyed family homes to the infamous Khiam

rock bottom before rising once more. “I am not

mantras, the Arabic language becomes an

Prison, the artist uses violent pasts to create

entirely sure if one person can change the world,

international instrument of peace.”

a sense of hope for the future; one where her

but I do know that we can work on becoming

The goal is clear, laudable and potentially of

art can transport the viewer into a positive

the best possible version of ourselves. If we

great benefit to this troubled city and a world that

place, one where healing, reconciliation and

each invested time to cultivate self-love and

is often wracked by despair and destruction.

love can come to the fore.

compassion, we become the change we wish

“Suffering is part of life, the same way love and

Part of this work includes the conducting

to see in the world. How can you give to others,

joy are. Pain cannot be avoided. If we embrace,

of healing ceremonies that seek to bring

if you don’t know how to give to yourself? How

accept and respect it, we learn to see pain as a

people and communities a sense of unity

can you function, if you are broken? How can

teacher and not an enemy. If there is a specific

and release from the past. “The ceremonies

you love someone if you cannot be kind to

pattern of pain in your life that seems to be on

include a process of meditation, chanting,

yourself?” Ponders El Khalil.

repeat, it is worth questioning what habits or

dancing, whirling, and a purifying fire ritual.

“I work on the ground transferring imprints,

thought patterns in your mind keep attracting

From the residual carbon ashes, I create

energy and history onto the canvas hoping to

that specific type of pain. If we can see it for

black ink that investigates the absence of

relieve the land of its pain and burden. In a final

what it truly is, without attachment, we can

light, and this is what I use to paint with.

act, I paint ‘mantras’ in Arabic that read love

learn to let go of it,” explains El Khalil. “The law

I paint with veils, symbolising the death –

(mawada), compassion (rahma), forgiveness

of attraction deems that we attract the energy

or transformation – of worldly illusions. In

(gufran) and peace (salam) and I leave them

that we give off. What we think will happen,

this process, I transmute negative energetic

fixed in these spaces. These words serve as

will indeed happen. This all goes back to the

residues in the land into love and light.”

an offering to the space and the connecting

power of thought and intentions. By repeating

It is within the context of healing and Lebanon’s

dots in my growing global mantra peace grid.

the words love, compassion, forgiveness,

violent recent past that Sacred Catastrophe:

Using the power of thought, by simply repeating

I believe we can become more loving,

Healing Lebanon sits. A 40-day celebration

these words, with positive affirmations, I

compassionate and forgiving to ourselves…

of art and creativity, the event will host myriad

believe we can collectively send healing to

and that overflow that we allow to spill out into

artists, all with the aim of creating a sense

these locations that have endured trauma,”

the world around us, that manifests through

of closure, of peace and of hope. The name

the artist tells MOJEH. “Our thoughts shape

our daily actions, that is what will change the

itself, Sacred Catastrophe: Healing Lebanon,

our realities and by repeating these words,

world and make it more loving, compassionate

hints that some horrific events can somehow

we help build a global matrix of peace and

and forgiving.” Simple concepts, but ones

hold a higher meaning, or offer a means to

reconciliation. On a more substantial level, this

that we so often forget. Sacred Catastrophe:

move forward. They offer the chance to study

work reintroduces nonviolent words back into

Healing Lebanon might just help us remember.

212

A RT IS T IN R ES I DE NC E

RESPONDING TO REVOLUTION In the run up to his highly anticipated and spellbinding solo exhibition at Tabari Artspace, MOJEH sits down with renowned artist Mohamed Abla as he reminisces about his rise to fame and subsequent success.

Sweet-scented spices, glittering jewels and generous rolls of

which led me to read about mythology and fairytales from the

supple silk were often brought westward by traders along the

East. I started researching stories from China and Kurdistan, to

Silk Road. A network of merchantry routes that were formally

Iran and Pakistan.” For over a year, Egypt’s most influential and

established during the Han Dynasty of China, this complex

established contemporary artist studied the history surrounding

labyrinth connected the East to West and, by doing so, linked

these extraordinary and bewitching countries. He soon discovered

ancient peoples in commerce. Named by the German geographer,

that the Silk Road was essential to the region’s prosperity and

geologist and traveller Ferdinand von Richthofen, who called

expansion. “The Silk Road is where cities were born, where cities

the meandering passages ‘Seidenstrasse’, luxury products

died, and so many stories were transformed into other stories,”

ranging from solid gold nuggets to bundles of wool would be

he attests. “A lot of new inventions happened because of the Silk

exchanged, both on land and overseas. The Silk Road transported

Road. Inventions in art and religion stretched from one area to

more than just merchandise, however; intellectual and cultural

another, all through the Silk Road.”

exchanges were inescapable, and had a profound impact on

Abla’s artwork seamlessly merges calligraphy and collage with

various civilisations for generations.

traditional Middle Eastern techniques and, for Mohamed Abla:

Mohamed Abla: The Silk Road showcases a selection of abstract

The Silk Road, the artist experimented with a new method of mark

artworks that explore folktales from north Africa, the Levant, Asia

making known as the Turkish Ebru. Paper floats in a tray filled

and the Indian subcontinent, most of which have been derived

with water and oil paint, before being carefully transferred onto

from Mohamed Abla’s research into the Silk Road’s dynamic

another piece of paper to create colourful marble-like patterns.

history. Thick swirls of sky-blue and acid-green paint provides

Various shapes from dyed sheets are cut and arranged into

the backdrop for age-old horsemen and damsels in distress.

compositions that resemble animals and princesses Abla imagines

The concept is largely inspired by one of the prolific artist’s

once frequented the ancient Silk Road network. “I researched

previous exhibits; entitled Tales For Reem, the display presented

techniques and sourced handmade paper and colours that I

a collection of fantasy stencil and collage-based mono-prints.

knew came from this area,” he explains. “For me, discovering a

“Three years ago, I had an exhibition about fairytales, which was

new technique or practising a new technique is like travelling or

for my granddaughter – the daughter of my son,” he explains with

exploring something new.”

palpable affection. “She was born, and I was seeking to make an

Wayfaring has long been a significant source of inspiration for Abla,

exhibition for her to tell her a story so that when she grows up I

who recently returned from exploring India, Syria and Iraq, having

can tell her, ‘This story, I made it for you.’”

gained a strong following among artists and art consumers, both

Tales For Reem is what first ignited Abla’s fascination with folktales

in the Middle East and worldwide. He travelled extensively after

and mythicism. “I started to become interested in fairytales,” he

graduating from Alexandria University’s faculty of fine arts, and

explains to MOJEH. “I started to read about different stories,

was largely able to do so thanks to his installations and paintings,

Mohamed Abla: The Silk Road at Tabari Artspace, Dubai, October 10 – November 24, 2017

Words by Annie Darling

Mohamed Abla, The Princess, 2016, mixed media on canvas, 70 x 100 cm, courtesy the artist

214

Mohamed Abla, Offering, 2016, mixed media on canvas, 70 x 100 cm, courtesy the artist

Mohamed Abla, The White Horse, 2016, mixed media on canvas, 100 x 70 cm, courtesy the artist

Mohamed Abla, The Copper City, 2016-2017, mixed media, courtesy the artist

216

Abla selects specific fairytales that he considers symbolic of the issues that have overshadowed Egypt since the 2011 revolution.

Mohamed Abla, The Happy Island, 2016-2017, mixed media, courtesy the artist

which quickly paved the way for him to exhibit internationally. “I

have to play. You have to be joyful. You have to enjoy it yourself,

got a scholarship to go to Spain from the Spanish government,”

and you have to take it easy.’ Technique is not that important.

he recalls. “I went to Spain, but after a while, I didn’t feel like

The important thing is the idea, and what’s behind that idea.”

studying anymore, so I went travelling in Europe.” For seven years

The aforementioned has always been easy for Abla, who started

in the late-Seventies and early-Eighties, Abla visited museums in

drawing as a young child. “I was in primary school,” he says,

France, Belgium and Germany, before deciding to, once again,

“and my teachers discovered this talent, and they encouraged

study art, sculpture and graphics in Vienna and Zurich.

me to continue working at it.” He talks with pride. Unlike other

It was imperative, says Abla, that while in his 20s and 30s he took

students, at a young age, Abla could already read and write, which

the time to visit other parts of the world. “During that time, we didn’t

freed up his time, allowing him to play and learn in the school’s

have the Internet and things like that,” he reminds MOJEH. “So it

art room. “I played with colours and looked through books,” he

[travel] was the only way for us to see international art. For me,

smiles, warmly. “I suppose it was just my luck. From the beginning

travel gave me the opportunity to see museums and meet other

it was clear to my teachers and I that I was going to be an artist.

artists – to see what it was like to be an artist in another country. It

It was always in my very being to study art.” The young creator,

was very, very special.” He smiles at the memory. “To meet artists

however, had to first face the disapproval of his father, who had

and see how they really are, and how they are active in their own

hoped that his son would become a military officer.

society – it influenced me greatly.” His first solo exhibition ran at

“My father didn’t like this [talent for art],” says Abla, his voice

the Hohmann Gallery in Germany, six years after his graduation

becoming serious. “He wanted me to be in the army.” He laughs

from Alexandria University. Exhibitions at Gallery Ewat, Holland,

at the thought. “When I finished high school, he sent me to army

Art Hall, Sweden, and the Egyptian Academy of Rome, Italy,

school. After one week, I escaped.” Abla’s father didn’t discover his

soon followed until he returned to Egypt for the birth of his son.

son had fled and enrolled at Alexandria University until six months

“My life after travelling to Europe started to become busy with

later, and he was furious. “He told me, ‘If you go on studying art,

more global ideas,” he says. “More ideas for myself. More

you don’t come home!’” For the following five years, Abla wasn’t

freedom, if you will. I started to address big questions in

allowed to visit his mother or sisters, but after graduation, his

life.” For decades, Abla’s work has consistently commented

father softened when he realised how talented and ambitious his

on the harsh realities associated with living in Egypt, and he

son was. “After I finished art school, I started to have exhibitions.

has documented the political changes that have taken place

People started to write about me and I became successful. He

there. Canvas paintings, photography, and newspaper cutouts

[father] became proud of me,” Abla muses, “in his own way.”

dominated several of his solo exhibitions in the mid-Nineties, all

Back to the present, and Mohamed Abla: The Silk Road is set

of which carried a significant amount of social commentary. In

to be the first showcase at Tabari Artspace under the gallery’s

1994, he subsequently won the First Prize at the Kuwait Biennial,

new name, having previously gone by Artspace Dubai. One of

followed by the Grand Prix at the Alexandria Biennale in Egypt,

the first commercial art galleries in the region, it’s dedicated to

three years later. He’s since founded several artistic institutions

the promotion of modern and contemporary Middle Eastern art

that connect artists locally and internationally, has founded the

and has enjoyed a longstanding relationship with Abla. “We’ve

Fayoum Art Centre in Egypt and established the first caricature

worked together for a long time,” he tells MOJEH. “For more

museum in the Middle East, also in Fayoum.

than 10 years!” He chuckles in disbelief at how time has flown.

More recently, Abla selects specific fairytales that he considers

“They’re very active and they have many ideas, and I really like

symbolic of the issues that have overshadowed Egypt since the

to work with them.” For Abla, Middle Eastern artwork is in a

2011 revolution. Despite these problems, for Abla, being creative in

league of it’s own. “The quality of our art is very strong and

his homeland has become much easier. “Years ago, being an artist

very real. It is real art. Art that really has to do with society,

in Egypt was difficult,” he admits, “because there were very few

with the environment. It deals with real problems.” Dubai, as

artists at that time who were really dealing with political and social

a destination, also holds a place close to the Egyptian’s heart.

aspects, or conflicts and problems.” He also argues that, during

“Dubai has brought history and so many other things to the Middle

the 20th Century, artists were discouraged from self-expression

East.” And for the month of October, it will also bring a bout

and from embracing their creativity. To be successful, he says, you

of history, and a spell of fantasy to the region’s art aficionados

must be able to enjoy the artistic process. “I say to artists, ‘You

thanks, in no small part, to Alba and his extraordinary imagination.

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M O J EH C U LTU R E

Third Culture Kids The Middle East is a region particularly comfortable with the Third Culture Kid set-up, but what happens when you’re raised in an ever-shifting environment in which travel is home?

“The art of life lies in a constant readjustment to our

one passport. Notable TCK examples include Hollywood

surroundings,” suggests Okakura Kakuzo, one of the most

actress Uma Thurman, who was was born in Boston,

influential authors of the 20th Century. And this piece of

Massachusetts, but grew up in the Himalayan town of

art is constantly being reworked and refined by the Third

Almora Uttarakhand, India; Yoko Ono, who was born to

Culture Kids. As adults much of our understanding of

parents in the banking sector and moved from Japan

the world relies upon our childhood experiences, from

to the US during her childhood; and perhaps the most

our allergies and phobias to our favourite dishes, the

famous TCK of all, Barack Obama who, as well as being

way we greet new acquaintances, and the languages

half Kenyan, was born in Honolulu and raised in Jakarta.

we speak. The term Third Culture Kids, or TCK, was first

“My mother is from Dhaka, Bangladesh, and my father is

coined during the Fifties by American sociologist Ruth Hill

from Lebanon, New Hampshire,” says Laila Plamondon,

Useem. During her time spent as an expat in India with her

director of operations at School Choice International. “My

husband and children, Useem observed the formation of a

father’s state department career took us to the Ivory Coast,

‘third culture’ where the birth culture (first culture) and the

Thailand and finally Bangladesh, where I graduated from

new culture (second culture) result in a new, third culture.

the American International School. I went to Smith College,

Useem used the phrase to identify children, like her own,

and was interested in how multiracial, multicultural, and

who spent their formative years in places foreign to that

multilingual individuals straddle multiple worlds and forge

of their parents’ own society and the term later when

their own unique identities and communities. New York

on to encompass children who accompany their parents

City and Dhaka are my cities. My homes are wherever my

into a different culture.

families are,” she continues.

Occupying a space somewhere in between cultures and

Stories like Plamondon’s were once limited to a niche

straddling the realms of immigrant and expat, TCKs are

segment of the population that included the children of

global citizens by nature. Speaking generally, the typical

diplomats, missionaries, military workers or those involved

TCK can most likely speak multiple languages, attended

in the set-up of new cities like Abu Dhabi that started

an international school and sometimes holds more than

with core contributors during the Sixties and went on to

The Observer, photographed by Pelle Lannefors, MOJEH Issue 40

Words by Laura Beaney

220

The communities and identities of the past were understood through geographical location, but now we exist in a different world.

include the diverse spectrum of society that had flooded

of the benefit associated with a nomadic upbringing.

into the Gulf by the late Nineties. Indeed, today TCKs have

“I’m able to have a broad, global perspective on life,”

parents that cover roles in myriad industries including

explains Plamondon. “I can see past the American bubble.

teachers, construction workers, bankers, and transnational

I’m comfortable travelling abroad and visiting different

businesspeople, and while exact figures are difficult to

countries. I have a lot of respect for people from every

pinpoint, in Pico Iyer’s TedGlobal talk, “Where is Home”

country, religion, background.” Indeed, being able to see

(2013), Iyer estimates the growing tribe of people “living

the bigger picture often gives TCKs a unique perspective

in countries not their own” to be 220 million.

and greater understanding when it comes to work and

Despite their proliferation, TCKs are a segment lacking

relationships. TCKs often develop an affinity with other

narrative in popular culture which can account for the

cultures without having full ownership of it. “You become

feeling of unease that tends to arise when the harmless

a sort of cultural hybrid,” says El-Ashmawi. “You balance

and all too common question, “where are you from?” crops

between two realities, juggle between languages and

up. “Often there’s a feeling of being ‘undefined’,” says

accents, beliefs and customs. It may feel incompatible,

Perryhan El-Ashmawi, a TCK who was raised by Egyptian

but you grow adaptable to different environments.”

parents in Bahrain. “My idea of home is dependent on

Cities like Hong Kong, Dubai, and Singapore have served

where my parents are based. My family lived in Bahrain

as TCK hubs in recent years, but will they continue to be

for almost 30 years, and then we recently moved to the

relevant to this segment of society in the future? Perhaps

UAE. And while my childhood memories are all based in

not. “There will definitely be an increase in children with

Bahrain, for some reason when someone asks me where

mixed backgrounds (race, ethnicity, language, etc.), but

I’m from, I naturally answer Egypt, although I’ve never lived

I don’t know if there will be an increase in TCKs with

there.” Identity confusion, and at times isolation can be

the technical definition,” says Plamondon. “I don’t think

common traits of the TCKs who are often required to bid

large corporations are sending expats abroad like they

farewell to school friends and family members and start

used to and technology has made it much easier to work

afresh at an early age.

remotely.” The communities and identities of the past

A posterchild for TCKs today, during his presidency

were understood through geographical location, but

Obama was both applauded and antagonised for his

now we exist in a different world. Technology and the

accepting worldly view and unassigned origins. But

reshaping of the traditional workplace might render expat

increased cultural empathy and the ability to transition

cities as useless, which means that our understanding

easily between religious and societal customs are all part

of the role of the geographical border is due an update.

222

M O J EH I NTER V I E W

FIVE MINUTES WITH AMY SMILOVIC

Interview by Mary Keenan, images courtesy of Tibi, Céline, Bobbi Brown and La Prairie, photographed by Silver Screen Collection at Getty

The designer behind cult American label Tibi reveals her artistic inspirations, beauty essentials and go-to labels exclusively to MOJEH.

jeans and sneakers modern and serves as the perfect topper for when the temperatures cool. I also love a blazer over a slip dress, or even to a dinner party when you’re wearing something a bit more special underneath.

My own personal style is…

Relaxed and easy with a minimal spin. I dress with a neutral base and may add a touch of colour here and there. I tend to go towards bold earrings or shoes since I like my clothing to be quite anonymous. I definitely have a uniform that includes a wide range of menswear blazers, Levi’s and sweatshirts.

The most cherished pieces in my wardrobe are…

My Levi’s, Céline earrings (I collect them each season), a black Prada dress from my rehearsal dinner and an oddly out of character Saint Laurent tuxedo blazer with a Hawaiian motif beaded on the lapel.

The Tibi woman…

Has an ease about her, with a clean and somewhat minimal approach to styling. There is a consistent sense of modernness An average day for me starts…

with a feminine edge.

At 6:30am when I get up to make breakfast for my kids. Two cups of coffee later, I’m on the 8.00am train to Grand Central

The most valuable lesson that I’ve learned…

Station, where I spend my commute sketching on my iPad. By

Is that I must stay true to myself, because having the confidence

9:30am I’m in the office with a third cup of coffee in my hand.

to deliver a point of view is critical for a designer. In this business, many different people and entities will have opinions

Art as an inspiration…

on what your point of view should be, but after 20 years in

I have always been passionate about art. My father is an artist

this business, I know that I need to believe in my own vision.

and I’ve been painting since I was seven or eight-years-old, which is probably why art in all of its various forms regularly

My go-to brands are…

serves as an origin of inspiration for my work. Day-to-day, I

Céline, Stella McCartney, Marni, Maison Margiela, JW

visit museums, bookshops and just walk the streets. Honestly,

Anderson, and Loewe.

inspiration resides anywhere and everywhere; the key is to be open to finding it.

Two of my style icons…

Charlotte Rampling and Patti Smith.

A woman’s life…

Was my source of inspiration for autumn/winter17. I wanted

The items currently in my beauty bag include…

to convey how important it is to have pieces that can take

Bobbi Brown lotions for my skin, SPF cream and foundation

you from the beginning of your day, to your office and to the

and La Prairie’s cream blush.

other places you frequent in daily life. In short, my goal was to create clothing that looks amazing in real life.

The thing I love most about my job…

The talented, creative people I get to work with every day.

The key piece from my collection this season is…

The strong shoulder blazer. The blazer has always been a

What is your biggest luxury…

staple piece in my wardrobe. The plaid version makes a pair of

Sketching with my kids.

224

LOST IN TIME We look back in order to move forward, taking inspiration from past decades.

Saint Laurent draws on the 70s with round, retro shades, while Gucci’s Alessandro Michele looks towards myths and legends with embroidered dragon motifs.

Shoes, GUCCI | sunglasses, SAINT LAURENT | desk drawers, NADA DEBS at Cities Design, Art & Lifestyle Store

Photographed by Borna Ahadi, styled by Sophie Pasztor

F I N A L N OTE

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