6 297000 384009
AED 40 / USD 11
OCTOBER 2017
Sartorial Stand
N°51
THE WORLD IS YOURS WITH LOUIS FOURTEEN Personalized concierge and lifestyle services, with attention to every detail, aiming to go beyond all expectations to fulfill your every desire!
At your service 24/7 Central offices in Dubai with liaison offices in Geneva, Paris, Milan and Los Angeles
T: +971 4 425 8600 | E: info@louisfourteen.com
14 Chairman SHAHAB IZADPANAH
EDITORIAL
PUBLISHING
Editor in Chief MOJEH IZADPANAH
Managing Director IVAN DONCIC
Managing Editor KELLY BALDWIN
Sales Director NADINE CHEHABEDDINE
Senior Fashion Writer MARY KEENAN
Senior Publishing Executive DESIREE LABANDA-GAVERIA
Lifestyle Writers LAURA BEANEY ANNIE DARLING
Junior Publishing Assistant KISADA HURIN Paris Representative GHISLAIN DE CASTELBAJAC
Senior Editorial Assistant SOPHIE PASZTOR
Advertising Inquiries Tel: +971 4 553 90 49 Email: advertising@mojeh.com
Guest Fashion Stylists STACEY CUNNINGHAM INA LEKIEWICZ
ART
Subscription Tel: +971 4 553 90 49 Email: subs@mojeh.com
Production and Creative Direction MOJEH MAGAZINE
Online Division ALI ROMAN
Art Director AMIRREZA AMIRASLANI
LOUIS FOURTEEN FOR MOJEH
Graphic Designer BALAJI MAHENDRAN
Concierge Service Management DAISY MARCHANT
Contributing Photographers JESSE LAITINEN RIO-ROMAINE MARKUS LAMBERT RAPHAËL DELORME RUI FARIA DANILO HESS
Published under HS Media Group FZ LLC Registered at Dubai Design District Building No. 8, Offices 212 P.O.Box 502333, Dubai, UAE.
Cover photographed by Rui Faria, model wears Dior Jewellery
WWW.MOJEH.COM Louis Fourteen for MOJEH Follow us on Twitter @MOJEH_Magazine MOJEH Swiss Representative Office: Rue de Rive 4, 1204 Geneva, Switzerland Average qualified circulation (January-June 2016): 12,275 copies. For the UAE printed by Emirates Printing Press LLC. Distribution- UAE: Al Nisr Distribution LLC. Bahrain: Jashanmal & Sons BSC (C). Oman: United Media Services LLC. Lebanon: Messageries Du Moyen-Orient The publishers regret that they cannot accept liability for error or omissions contained in this publication, however caused. The opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessary those of the publishers. Readers are advised to seek specialist advice before acting on information contained in this publication which is provided for general use and may not be appropriate for the readers particular circumstances. The ownership of trademark is acknowledged, therefore reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. All credits are subjects to change. Copyright HS MEDIA GROUP FZ LLC 2011
16
M O J EH C O NTENT S
FASHION & TRENDS 50. STYLE From Scandinavia’s superior sartorial offerings to the style breakdown from the autumn/winter shows, MOJEH marks out its edit of the season’s pivotal trends.
100. COPY CATS As imitation, subversion, and all-out logomania dominate our style aspirations, we discover how fashion learnt to embrace its bootleggers.
106. ALL ROADS LEAD TO OUTER SPACE Lifting off with the Sixties’ Space Race that’s populated the catwalks ever since, MOJEH explores fashion’s love affair with the future.
PHOTOSHOOTS 38. THE HIGH SHINE EDIT
124. LOST IN TRANSLATION
It’s time to re-learn and refine the sartorial rule book.
High-shine elements are brought down to earth
From accessories clamped over cuffs to billowing
with fine and feminine florals for eveningwear.
blouses pinned in by basques, this season’s high
Give grown-up gowns a contemporary twist with
points are appreciated in the execution.
unexpected footwear.
114. FIELDS OF FALL
154. VELOCITY OF LIGHT
Transitioning from day-to-night, tweed receives a
Precious pieces share craftsmanship so expertly
futuristic reworking this season while knits enter
executed they exude an otherworldly quality. Choose
into a new-era with glistening, high-shine footwear
kaleidoscopic stones and shining facades to illuminate
and thigh-skimming hemlines.
pared-back wardrobe choices.
18 MOJEH FEATURES 32. THE PURSUIT OF HAPPINESS Humanity’s obsession with the formula for happiness is unwavering, but can material wealth, objects, and experiences ever offer us internal fulfillment?
194. A HIGHER STATE From physical duress to creative stagnation, the cluttered mind comes with its own set of problems. MOJEH considers the payback of time spent alone with tutored thoughts.
218. THIRD CULTURE KIDS A new-gen mix that offers scope for enhanced social understanding, what happens when you’re raised in an ever-shifting environment in which travel is home? MOJEH investigates.
HEALTH & BEAUTY 185. PASS ME THE KIMCHI
202. WHAT MEN WANT
Cure or craze? Peddled as a long-term fix for
A place of paradox, MOJEH shines a spotlight
everything from mood swings to food intolerances,
upon the vast gender inequality that continues
fermented foods have recently been propelled to
to populate the top-tier positions at multibillion-
new health heights.
dollar beauty companies.
198. ABSTINENCE AND ABUNDANCE
204. FIVE FENTY BEAUTY INSIGHTS
Proposing benefits that range from enhanced
Promising shades for all, as the highly anticipated
mental clarity to age reversal, MOJEH makes sense
Fenty Beauty hits the shelves MOJEH catches up
of the centuries-old practice that’s now sweeping
with Rihanna to discover more about her brand’s
the Silicon Valley – intermittent fasting.
all-encompassing appeal.
20
E D I T O R ’S L ETTE R
Photographed by Rui Faria
INTROSPECTIVE EDIT Stirring our sartorial senses after what felt like an endless summer, the fashion weeks have given us a healthy appetite for wardrobe updates, and in the October issue we dissect and decode them. Navy is the hue of now, but what are the key pieces and how do we wear them? What elements of spring/summer can we take on-board and which pieces can we transition from the season before? Our trend reportage offers a visual tour between the standout solutions. In All Roads Lead to Outer Space, we reinforce the social significance behind futuristic dress codes championed by the likes of Chanel and J.W. Anderson, while Copy Cats shines a spotlight on our current fixation with bootlegged branding and larger-than-life logos. These days everything about fashion is politicised, so it’s not merely a matter of dressing to our whims. High jewellery continues to hit a high note with precious pieces becoming daytime staples, increasingly worn in fresh and compelling ways, with Bulgari’s gilded garden rings that are stacked and worn in quantities. Timepieces take a turn towards kaleidoscopic colour-codes, but amid the household names, there’s an undercurrent of burgeoning local talent. In this issue we celebrate jewellery’s up-and-coming names that are rising rapidly from the Middle East. October signals our entrance into the season of creativity and culture. As the calendar amps up with Abu Dhabi Art, Dubai Design Week and with the opening of the Louvre on the horizon, we invite renowned artist Mohamed Abla to recount his rise to fame via The Silk Road, and impeccably stylish collector, Doha Challah, to share her industry insight. This issue is about making sense of the myriad offerings we’re presented with. As we seek to personalise both fashion and health practices, our beauty features hone in on topics like fasting – designed to enhance both body and mind – as well as millennials, who are perhaps wrongly branded as generation ‘me, me, me’, while Pursuit of Happiness questions our very approach to purchasing. From happiness to style, there’s something to be said for the millennial aptitude for self-centric behaviour, and our October issue encourages you to channel just a little bit of that.
Follow me on Twitter and Instagram @Mojeh_I and write to me at editor@mojeh.com
MOJEH IZADPANAH Editor in Chief
22
E D I T O R ’S S N A P S H OT S
ORGANIC NOTION 2
1
3
4
Form and fluidity set the season’s sartorial mood, where wide-cut trousers and billowing blouses caress the body rather than confine it. Jewellery is moulded around organic contours, swirling clean-cut metals in artistic settings. Look to a complementary palette of azure and lightweight white to harmonise its overall aesthetic. 1. MANOLO BLAHNIK | 2. BURBERRY | 3. HUBLOT | 4. JASON WU @NETAPORTER | 5. DE GRISOGONO | 6. CHAUMET | 7. MATICEVSKI
5
6
7
24
W AT C H N OTE
D I V I N E D I A L “A ball gown must be the one of your dreams, and must also make you a dream-like creature. In my opinion, a ball gown is just as important a piece in a woman’s wardrobe as a suit. And so wonderful for morale...” Christian Dior said. Inspired by this view, the Dior VIII Grand Bal Plissé Ruban was created, capturing the elegance of eveningwear and the magical swirl of a ball gown with it oscillating weight on the dial. A truly glamorous timepiece that
Photographed by Julia Chernih at The Factory ME, styled by Sophie Pasztor
will make the perfect addition to your collection.
26
S KY H IG H The thigh-high returns this season with galactic effect. Metallic, high-shine leathers add a futuristic feel, while beautifully embellished styles go well with eveningwear. Left to right: GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI | BALENCIAGA | SAINT LAURENT
Photographed by Julia Chernih at The Factory ME, styled by Sophie Pasztor
S T YL E NOTE
26 – 28 OCTOBER 2017 DUBAI DESIGN DISTRICT
28
ST YL E NOTE
SILK ROAD Sumptuous satins are one of the more luxurious fabrics emerging from your autumn/winter accessories. The polished material took over the runways in opulent jewel tones, moulding footwear from designers such as Stella Luna and Roger Vivier. Clockwise from top left: ALEXANDRE BIRMAN at Level shoes | STELLA LUNA at
Photographed by Julia Chernih at The Factory ME, styled by Sophie Pasztor
Level Shoes | PEDRO GARCIA at Level Shoes | ROGER VIVIER
30
M O J EH INTER V I E W
FIVE MINUTES WITH
PAULA KNORR MOJEH gets to know the extremely talented emerging designer causing a sartorial stir.
Clothing to covet. The key pieces from my collection are definitely the black and red-wine hued transparent dresses and tops. I used a silk and foil mix chiffon fabric, which can look like glossy transparent latex in pictures, but moves like super-light chiffon and creates a beautiful antithetical effect. It’s all about the woman. To support and illustrate the female identity is at the core of my design ethos. In fashion you
German-born and London-based designer
London as a Launchpad.
often get the feeling that the model wearing the
Paula Knorr is a star on the rise. Upon
I studied my master’s degree at The Royal
clothes on the runway is getting more attention
graduating from The Royal College of Art
College of Art and stayed on afterwards. London
than the real woman who wears the garment
in 2015, the young designer’s unique and
offers plenty of great chances to young designers
later on. Every season, I try to reverse that
innovative draping techniques caught the
such as sponsorship schemes like NEWGEN,
and remind people of the actual purpose of
attention of the British Fashion Council who
for example. They have supported me since my
fashion. The real woman should always be at
named her as the latest addition to their
first spring/summer17 season. They provide a
the forefront, not her clothes. It´s all about her
NEWGEN talent incubation scheme last year.
lot of support that young designers lose but
body, her movement and her personal beauty.
In addition to showing her autumn/winter17
still desperately need when they graduate.
and spring/summer18 collections at last
These schemes also connect you with so many
Thinking on your feet.
month’s London Fashion Week, she’s just
amazing people who mentor you and give you
As a young designer the biggest challenge I’ve
released an exclusive capsule collection with
the confidence you need to believe that you are
faced is having to learn all the skills and gain
Matches Fashion that builds on her vibrant,
on the right track with your ideas and designs.
the knowledge you suddenly need to have when starting your own label fast enough.
daring and fluid designs. Here, she chats to Femininity in all of its forms.
You aren’t just thinking from a designer
Fashion tends to showcase this one-
perspective but also from sales, financial and
Artistic beginnings.
dimensional, fictitious girl as a muse, so for
operational perspectives.
I grew up in a very artistic household as both
autumn/winter17 I wanted to showcase the
of my parents are artists and illustrators. I was
diversity and complexity of the female psyche
What the future holds.
always sketching and sewing outfits for my little
and form. I imagined a collage where all these
Seeing my garments stocked in stores and worn
sister, which made me realise that I wanted to
different emotions and characteristics that don’t
by real women still amazes me. I hope to see
create clothes from a really young age.
belong or fit are brought together.
more and more of that as my business grows.
MOJEH about her role as a designer.
malloftheemirates.com
32
T A L K I NG P O I NT
The Pursuit of Happiness
or considered to be a specific destination that could be reached. And with work, family, community and religious duties typically filling the day, there was little time to ponder personal fulfilment. Today we have greater financial wealth, more disposable income, rights for women and
Our universal quest for happiness is often understood through the lens of our finances and how we choose to spend them. MOJEH considers the age-old conundrum – can objects and experiences ever offer us internal fulfillment?
racial equality have vastly improved, life expectancies have increased and access to education, healthcare, and global travel continue to expand. Appreciating these advancements alone we might expect that citizens of developed countries are happier than those of less prosperous nations, but Richard Easterlin, professor of economics at the University of Southern California,
Words by Laura Beaney
argues that this is not the case. Known as the Easterlin paradox, his research during the Seventies claimed that growing national wealth is not always inline with growing national happiness and that largely, affluent
into consideration factors like income, life
their poorer counterparts. Easterlin’s theory
navigates everything from our activities
expectancy and education. There’s a link
continues to be contested, examined, and
to our outlook, the highway to happiness
that’s commonly drawn between cash flow
redefined by economists and intellectuals.
is a universal quest. Attempts to define,
and contentment, but as children our elders
Another landmark study by researchers at
prescribe, codify, quantify, formulate and
warn us that money can never attain it. In
the London School of Economics attributed
create a framework for happiness have
the developed world we have more than
most human misery to failed relationships
perplexed the human race for centuries. In
the previous generations could have ever
and physical and mental illness rather than
reality it’s all we really want and what most
imagined yet self-help books, Xanax and
measurable problems like poverty. These
of us spend our lives searching for – be that
psychiatry sessions are some of our defining
findings pose a problem because, in the
through career progression, meditation, the
pastimes. The story of Mo Gawdat typifies
Western world, our levels of contentment are
attainment of a dream home, time spent with
this sentiment. Despite his career success
often closely linked to our spending habits.
loved ones, a sip of our preferred tea, or an
and notable wealth, he was admittedly
There are entire industries, from music
hour sat on the couch of our psychiatrist.
profusely unhappy, his state-of-mind fuelled
festivals to pharmaceuticals, built upon this.
Research into what makes us smile is
an obsession with finding a precise formula
“Happiness can never be a destination,”
widespread and ongoing. Social scientists
for happiness. The chief business officer at
advises Suzanne Degges-White, PhD, a
attribute it to genetics, circumstances
Google’s [X], a select team that comprise
professor and chair of the Counselling,
and moral values, while economists
Google’s futuristic dream factory, used
Adult and Higher Education department
and psychologists seek to quantify and
this engineer’s mind to create an algorithm
at Northern Illinois University. “When you
comprehend it through data. Indeed
based on an understanding of how the brain
begin to tie happiness to the accumulation
the United Nations, rank the happiness
processes joy and sadness, creating his
of objective measures, you will never be
of entire countries through their annual
equation for permanent happiness.
happy enough.” Consider the purchase of a
human development index that takes
In the past, happiness was not quantified
new sports car as an example: you save for
Tomorrow’s Dream, photographed by Julien Vallon, MOJEH Issue 35
countries are not necessarily happier than Elusive, subjective, and a driving-force that
it, and imagine a certain return of pleasure once you finally own it. You buy it, but the next week, that brand new vehicle yields less shine, and does nothing more than last year’s model would – takes you from A-to-B. The experience of the purchase was the thrill, but the object remains an object. Indeed, recent spending trends have seen experience-driven purchases take precedence over luxury goods, but is the end result more enriching? “I’ve worked hard to build my own brand after breaking away from the family business where I had a guaranteed support network,” says luxury accessories designer, Sofia Al Asfoor, who believes her healthy lifestyle choices were critical to her emotional wellbeing during this challenging phase. “When you’re under pressure you can easily fall into negative patterns. For me, all forms of exercise, spending time in natural environments and eating well have kept me balanced. While enhancing your personal style and offering a certain sense of pleasure, material things cannot contribute to a better you.” Certain spends cannot easily be categorised, but all share a commonality in that they are driven by how they make us ‘feel’. One of Al Asfoor’s unforgettable moments of euphoria came as sunrise drenched the top of a mountain in Bali, a space she’d reached after a five-hour hike under the stars. “Some experiences affect us on multiple levels and increase the personal value of the time, money, or resources invested in them,” says Degges-White. “The ‘happiness industry’ is the result of our belief that we are masters of our lives and that we should be able to hold control over our emotions and states of being. Unfortunately, anything that truly brings lasting contentment or authentic gratitude is more than likely not a thing, but an experience.”
34
T A L K ING P O I NT
TALKING ‘BOUT MY GENERATION Narcissistic, materialistic and technology-addicted, the millennial generation is conveniently distilled into a stereotype that screams ‘me, me, me’. But, as this generation redefines adulthood in more ways than one, are millennials simply misunderstood?
Words by Natalie Trevis
If you value meaning and purpose in life over
world.” As the traditional markers of success
The fact that many millennials believe, unlike
salaries and pensions, prioritise wellness, are
have changed over the years – becoming
Gen Xers, that they will never be able to retire,
more likely to be caught daydreaming about
both harder to achieve and less desirable
changes the way money and work are viewed
that life-changing trip to Costa Rica than
– millennials are redefining what were once
and, among other things, deepens the need
weddings and are making drastically different
immutable timelines, pursuing the life goals of
for career fulfillment. “Millennials’ focus on
life choices to your parents, the chances are
marriage, children and home ownership much
meaning and passion is very real,” says David
you’re a millennial. Commonly defined as the
later, if at all. “Take marriage,” says Walden,
Stillman of father-son Gen X/Gen Z speaking
generation born between 1982 and the late-
“Millennials have significantly delayed marriage
team, Gen Z Guru. “It is not because they have
Nineties, millennials are often characterised in
and starting families. Unlike generations before
struggled of late with their career paths. They
literature, film and popular media as entitled
them, they’re settling down in their late 20s
want to meet traditional life achievements as
and self-obsessed, living on a diet of kale and
and early 30s (which puts them at a different
well. The difference is that they are asking for
the instant gratification that comes from the
stage in their career than when Generation
meaning and passion at a younger age. The
public over-sharing of every life event from
Xers and baby boomers began getting married
other generations also wanted these things,
sipping an Insta-worthy Matcha tea to the major
and having kids). Millennials are also redefining
but their model was that you had to put in time
milestones of career, love and life. Yet while
what parenthood looks like – with their careers
before you could expect more meaning in the
it might make an attention-grabbing headline
ramping up, they’ve had to. What role does
role. Millennials want to find that on day one.
to casually dismiss an entire generation as a
the mother have? What role does the father
Not right or wrong… but definitely different.”
series of relentlessly self-sabotaging kidults
play? It’s all part of pursuing a life goal in a
But shooting for the moon has not come
like so many of the narcissistic characters in
way that fits with their generational identities,
without its impracticalities. “College turned
HBO’s cult show Girls, as millennials come of
but also with the life stage they’re in as they
out to be expensive. 2008 happened. Unpaid
age – dominating the workplace, technology
pursue these goals.”
internships were normal,” notes Austyn Rask,
and the dating scene – these idle stereotypes
Living through dramatic shifts in technology,
research and writing associate at BridgeWorks
ring ever more hollow.
as well as fluid social and workplace demands,
and a late millennial who identifies more with
“Millennial life goals look different,” says
has forced millennials to adapt to the times at
tech-integrated Generation Edge. “Following
Lisa Walden, communications director and
lightning speed and therefore prioritise values
their passions in college didn’t necessarily
consultant at BridgeWorks consultancy and
over goals. The shifting ideals, multiple career
land millennials the highest-paying jobs.
a millennial herself. “Millennials were told they
twists – millennials are the consumers of the
Many millennials boomeranged back home to
could define their own happiness and that
workplace, with 60 per cent open to a new job
live with parents and save money. They didn’t
they should reach for the stars. Because of
opportunity and 21 per cent having changed
all get the uber-responsible jobs they aimed
that, many millennials aren’t necessarily going
jobs in the past year (more than three times
for, as Joel Stein referenced in millennials:
out there and pursuing the more ‘traditional’
the number of non-millennials) according to
The Me Me Me Generation. We find ourselves
life goals. They’re looking to enrich their lives
a Gallup survey in 2016 – and indifference to
explaining to clients that no, their millennial
through experiences, and finding ways to give
putting down solid roots could be perceived as
employees are not lazy for taking a midday
back. Some aren’t prioritising saving for a
fickle. But perhaps it simply belies a nimbleness
yoga class or for rolling into the office at
down payment on a house, but instead have a
and tenaciousness that have escaped the
10am. Millennials are building a reputation
savings account to fund their goal to travel the
conformist generations of previous decades.
for working obscure hours, whether 9pm
36
The irony of generational stereotyping is that the group most offended by millennials acting entitled are other millennials who do not act entitled.
on a Wednesday or half the day Saturday.
think the entitled segment of the generation
Is Changing The Middle East, Juan Cole, a
Workaholism and vacation-shaming are on
is giving them a bad reputation. In terms of
youth bulge means that now more than a
the rise for this young generation.”
millennial truth vs. fiction, there are actually
third of the Arab world’s population is made
Fewer boundaries between home and work
more millennials working today than any other
up of millennials. Although facing staggering
life mean that millennials bring their whole
generation. At the same time, people love to
rates of unemployment in many nations,
selves to projects, insecurities and all, with a
say that millennials are broke, yet millennials will
these young adults were significantly more
transparency, freedom and expectation to be
outspend every other generation as consumers
urban and literate than preceding generations
heard that breeds ideas and innovation but
this year. The truth is that every generation –
at the time of the Arab Spring, leading to
can also be misunderstood. A recent Pew
whether millennials, Gen X, or boomers – has
widespread unrest among a population that
Research Center study found that three out
a sub-group that may act entitled, lazy, or be
not only had access to information from the
of five millennials in the US don’t even want
firmly attached to the latest technology, but
outside world, but the ability to analyse and
to be called millennials, such is the perceived
millennials have been branded with way more
spread it. Social media, camera phones and
stigma. “We might live at home, choose not
than their fair share of negative characteristics
blogs, found a political significance not seen
to get married, or participate actively in the
because of the click bait results the media is
before and millennials – exposing the lie of
sharing economy, but none of these decisions
able to generate by taking a negative angle
their supposed apathy – were at the helm.
mean a stunted state of growth or intellect –
towards millennials.”
The tide continues to turn as the typecasting
just an evolving culture and worldview,” notes
Far from the navel-gazing hipsters society
wears increasingly thin and the millennial
writer Jeva Lange in The Week. While the
loves to hate, we find a generation of
dollar is courted by the consumer industries.
world might hate millennials, being one is even
workaholics afraid to take time off, who value
“Millennials are starting to get a more positive
worse, she says, particularly finding yourself
volunteering and community (both online and
spin,” says Dorsey, “but that seems to be
at the receiving end of tone deaf millennial-
IRL) more than any other generation before.
largely driven by millennials themselves who
caricature advertising campaigns, ‘hip’
In unstable global times, millennials are
are disproving – and disputing – the negative
political crusades, endless ironic posts about
more globally similar than other generations
stereotypes rather than other generations
how to get better at ‘adulting’, international
because of the rise of the Internet, yet the
adapting their view. The good news is that
news stories dumbed-down into GIFs from
strength of millennials is demonstrated
employers have recognised that millennials
The Hills and articles proclaiming millennials
differently depending on the context of their
can be valuable employees and are recruiting,
to be killing everything from the dinner date
environment. In the Middle East, not only
retaining, and developing millennials’
to the American dream.
does millennial power show itself in luxury
talent by adapting to bring out the best in
This desire for respect makes the broad-brush
spending, the rise of entrepreneurial tech-
this generation – while also expecting the
labels all the more difficult to accept. “The irony
conscious small businesses and the influence
generation to take some steps to adapt in
of generational stereotyping is that the group
of industry leaders with global reach, but in
return. On the consumer side, brands have
most offended by millennials acting entitled are
a growing social conscience and political
finally realised that millennials are not only the
other millennials who do not act entitled,” says
activism that now has an outlet coursing
drivers of every major consumer trend but
Jason Dorsey, president and researcher at The
through every smartphone.
also exhibiting brand loyalty. Millennials are
Center for Generational Kinetics, a millennial
According to historian and author of The
the number one generation to refer a friend
and author of Y-Size Your Business. “They
New Arabs: How The Millennial Generation
to a particular product, service, or person.”
Further cross-generational understanding
to invest time in the millennial mindset. That
our organisations.” As millennials – the most
of the issues millennials are facing and the
is not fair. The people complaining about
studied generation in history – grow up, forge
smart workarounds they have devised that
millennials are often the ones who raised
new paths for today’s young people to follow,
benefit everyone can ease the generational
them. The best thing we can do is end the
offer us solutions, leaders and creativity, it’s
gap even more. Think remote working,
negative chatter. More than just avoiding
time to leave behind the tired tropes of the
flexible hours, the ease of online shopping,
stereotypes it is about… having an open mind
avocado-addicted Peter Pan. Besides, it’s the
a guilt-free focus on wellbeing and apps
and learning how millennials are just different.”
progressive (‘woke’) Gen Zers who have never
for everything from dating to food delivery.
Draining generational conflicts hinder
known a world without the Internet, have
Progress brings change, which inevitably
productivity and happiness all round, agrees
an average attention span of eight seconds
meets pockets of resistance that can be
Rask. “With generational understanding,
and an annual spending power of $44 billion
overcome. “There is too much negative
however, we can understand our coworkers’
(AED 162 million) that are stepping into the
chatter about millennials,” notes Stillman.
perspectives, resolve some of those conflicts,
spotlight now. And with that heightened
“There is a lot of millennial fatigue today.
and leverage each others’ generational
sense of intuition, maybe, this time, they will
Therefore, people are not as likely to want
strengths to benefit ourselves, our teams, and
be the ones to define their own generation.
38
S T YL E NOTE
It’s time to re-learn and refine. This season it’s more about how you wear it. Clamp high-shine cuffs over sleeves and tuck billowing blouses into basques, punctuate your treasured pieces with delicate brooches, and juxtapose unexpected materials.
Photographed by RAPHAËL DELORME Styled by KELLY BALDWIN
Dress, MIU MIU | shirt, LANVIN
40
Dress and boots, SAINT LAURENT
Top, skirt and boots, FENDI | earrings, MARNI | necklace, SAINT LAURENT | bag, DOLCE&GABBANA
42
Dress, GUCCI | gloves, Bottega Veneta | bag, FENDI
Top and shorts, DELPOZO | bracelet, MARNI | rings, VERSACE | bag GUCCI
44
Dress (worn as shirt) and jacket, LANVIN | bag, GUCCI
Jumpsuit, DELPOZO | bag, FENDI | belt bag, GUCCI | belt, DOLCE&GABBANA | earrings and bracelet, MARNI | ring, VERSACE
46
Top, AIGNER | dress, VALENTINO | belt (worn as necklace), LANVIN | sunglasses, MIU MIU
Dress, VALENTINO | bodice dress, GUCCI | jacket, VERSACE
48
Cape, BOTTEGA VENETA | necklace, LANVIN
Model: Anastasia Tretyakova at Art Factory Management Hair and makeup: Marisol Steward Photography assistant: Hussein Attarwala Styling assistant: Sophie Pasztor Production: MOJEH Magazine
50
F A SH I O N I N F O C U S
1 9
8 2
BAROQUE BEGINNINGS Burnished burgundy and opulent azure shades present an ode to reality. The intricacy of
3
brocade seen in Valentino’s coat creates a beautiful complexity that carries the eye while an accompaniment of gilded jewels brings a welcomed touch of glamour. 1. TIBI | 2. PATEK PHILIPPE | 3. PRADA | 4. ROBERTO COIN | 5. OSCAR DE LA RENTA | 6. GUCCI | 7. CARTIER | 8. VALENTINO | 9. POLLINI
6
5
7
Compiled by Sophie Pasztor
4
8
1
2
7
SENSUAL SOPHISTICATION Sleek silks and a multitude of lusciously languid silhouettes work to elevate bohemian designs. The ultra-luxurious slip dresses and honey-textured blouses, proposed by designers from Tibi to Mulberry, have made boudoir dressing hot on our radar. 1. FENDI | 2. TIBI | 3. DE GRISOGONO | 4. CHLOÉ | 5. NO.21 at Level Shoes | 6. DIOR | 7. ELISABETTA FRANCHI | 8. MULBERRY
4 6 3
5
52
1
7
2
COLOUR CODES The demure shades we have come to expect during the cooler months are being challenged with more jovial pops of colour.
6
Details are enriched through overtly bold embellishments, artistic embroidery and a juxtaposition of opposing fabrics. 1. CARTIER | 2. DELPOZO | 3. VALENTINO | 4. CHANEL | 5. CINDY CHAO | 6. TIBI | 7. OSCAR DE LA RENTA
4
3
5
7
1
6
2
ON SIDE Alter preconceived notions that suggest athleisure is only suited to casual settings, and look to embrace it in a new context. Steer away from relaxed styles that play down sophistication and pair with other classic pieces such as a tailored suit or patent leather boots. 1. DIOR | 2. ROSETTA GETTY at BySymphony | 3. GUCCI | 4. CHLOÉ | 5. DELFINA DELETTREZ | 6 & 7. TIBI
4 3
5
54
M O J EH NEW S
STYLE NEWS This October your Dubai diary will not be complete without a pitstop by Chanel’s new watch and fine jewellery boutique, while New York plays host to an exhibition that allows us to question the very fabric of our fashions and La Prairie’s latest launch looks set to become a skincare cult classic. MOJEH marks out the latest launches, events and additions to the style sphere.
The Launch, Comptoir 102 launches its own fine jewellery collection Dubai’s chic contemporary concept store, Comptoir 102, has announced the launch of its own jewellery collection, Numéro 102, crafted by fine jewellery designer Mathilde Danglade. Designed under the artistic direction of Comptoir 102’s founder, Emma Sawko, the collection features rings and pendants made of fine gold and semiprecious turquoise, and opals as well as gold-set rings and pendants with rough-cut edges. Throughout all the collections, the pieces feature the signature Comptoir 102 dots with materials and techniques heavily inspired by Danglade’s travels throughout Asia. “Some people collect bags or shoes, but for me it has been jewellery since my early childhood, whether in its simple form or precious,
The Book, Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott Seminal photo duo Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott have released their firstever photography publication in collaboration with Taschen. Over the past 20 years, the creative partnership have shaped the global image of contemporary glamour working with renowned brands such as Giorgio Armani, Fendi, Miu Miu, Gucci, Saint Laurent, Givenchy and Lancôme, as well as public figures including Madonna, Linda Evangelista, Gisele Bündchen, Angelina Jolie, and Rihanna. Their works showcase a diverse range of styles but are best known for their use of digitised augmentation of images, and preoccupation with strong female subjects.
Images Courtesy of Comptoir 102, Taschen, La Prairie, The Museum of Modern Art, and Chanel
jewels have always been important to my eye,” says founder Emma Sawko.
The Exhibition, Items: Is Fashion Modern? Drawing together the present, past, and speculating upon the future, this exhibition focuses on 111 pivotal items of clothing and accessories that have had a strong impact on the world during the 20th and 21st centuries and continue to be relevant today. Pieces include the globally adored Levi’s 501s, and the LBD as well as culturally loaded items such as the sari, and the keffiyeh. Celebrating objects rather than their designers, the exhibition considers the complex relationships that entwine fashion with functionality, culture, politics, labour, identity, economy, and technology, extending the conversation into the future, and connecting the history of these garments with their current use. The Museum of Modern Art, New York, October 1, 2017–January 28, 2018
The Treat, Skin Caviar Absolute Filler An elevated antidote to the seasonal wear-and-tear on our skin, La Prairie’s new Skin Caviar Absolute Filler uses new technology to target loss of volume and density – its main aim is to plump, reshape and refine the contours of the face, restoring the desirable appearance of youth. La Prairie’s latest caviar technology, used for the first time in Skin Caviar Absolute Filler, features an advanced technological process that captures the most potent nutrients found in caviar. It contains highly concentrated caviar oil and caviar proteins – the two most powerful elements found in the ingredient – and in harmony they increase skin volume and firmness, delivering rich nutrients and moisture to stimulate collagen formation.
The Destination, Dubai welcomes its second Chanel Watch and Fine Jewellery Boutique The Mall of the Emirates’ new luxury wing becomes home to Chanel’s highly anticipated second watch and fine jewellery boutique. The interior of the new location has been conceived by notable New York architect Peter Marino, drawing inspiration from Gabrielle Chanel’s Parisian townhouse on Faubourg Saint-Honoré as well as her apartment at 31, rue Cambon. In addition to the elevated interiors, each room showcases works of contemporary art commissioned for the fashion house. Visitors to the store can take in fine jewellery collections such as Bouton de Camélia, Coco Crush, Monsieur de Chanel and Première Boy watches as well as the latest fine jewellery and watch creations, such as Plume de Chanel, Sous le Signe du Lion and Mademoiselle Privé Coromandel watch. The gallery is also adjoined by a VIP room offering a private shopping experience. Chanel watch and fine jewellery boutique, Mall of the Emirates, Dubai
56
D E SI G N ER I NTERVIE W
ACCORDING TO ELLERY One of Australia’s most promising young design talents, Paris-based designer Kym Ellery brings MOJEH up to speed on her autumn/winter collection.
Interview by Mary Keenan
Why did you decide to start Ellery? I grew up in a creative household with my artist mother always encouraging me to draw, paint and use my hands. We lived in a very remote part of western Australia and didn’t have a television, which definitely encouraged my creativity and imagination. I started sewing at a young age, however it wasn’t until I worked for a fashion magazine that I realised that there was a gap in the market for a brand like Ellery, that sat between the contemporary and luxury worlds. You moved to Paris last year. Have new surroundings impacted your designs? Living in Paris has certainly changed my outlook. I adore how French women have codes of dressing and I especially appreciate the way older men and women take such pride in their ensembles, the attention to detail is inspiring. Talk us through your usual working day. I like to start the day with meditation and tea and then head to the Tuileries Garden to do a boxing workout with my trainer. The morning is spent on Skype with my design team in Sydney, due to the vast distance between us we have all become extremely savvy digital communicators. Lunch is usually ordered in because I don’t have time to run out, then the afternoon is a mix of meetings and trying to get through my mountain of emails. In the evenings I like to spend some relaxing time with my boyfriend who is currently patiently teaching me my favourite Beatles songs on the guitar.
58
What was your inspiration for your autumn/ winter17 collection? An electric awakening inspired the collection. It tells the story of a traditional, bourgeois woman who goes on a journey of self-discovery. What are some of the key pieces from this collection? The PVC cropped flared trousers, the voluminous sleeved corset, the gold fringe kimono dress and the check suit are my favourites! Tell us about the colours and prints used in the collection, what drew you to them? I collaborated with my mother, Debra Ellery to create the psychedelic prints. She used a Japanese technique called Shibori to produce the vibrant prints. Plaid fabrics are on trend this season, how do you suggest we wear them? Mix them with interesting textures and colours to ensure the check doesn’t look too serious. I like the idea of a patent turtle neck with a check suit to fuse modern with traditional. Your work often features architectural cuts and volume – what draws you to these two things? I like to play with proportion in both a feminine and masculine way. It’s a fine line to dance on, but if correctly articulated it can make the wearer feel slimmer, taller and chicer. Isn’t that what we all desire?
Where do you seek inspiration? I never know when or where inspiration will strike. It can be a song, movie, ideology or artwork that piques my interest. I enjoy the fact that inspiration can sit in the most unlikely of circumstances. The narrative of the collection is always born from thinking of a female character and exploring the world that she inhabits. What’s on your mood board at the moment? Brooke Shields; beaches; Martians; a young Gwyneth Paltrow; men’s tailoring references from the Seventies. Watch this space! Who is the Ellery woman? She is intelligent, cerebral, creative and discerning. What do women want from your clothing? They want to feel confident and armoured to face whatever the day holds. They want to be able to seamlessly slip from day-to-night in the same outfit without overthinking. Your designs are often trans-seasonal, in your opinion what are the staple pieces of a seasonless wardrobe? Flares, a light trench coat, cashmere sweaters, ankle boots and the perfect cotton poplin shirt. What has your best piece of advice been over the past decade? Think big.
It tells the story of a traditional, bourgeois woman who goes on a journey of self-discovery.
60
M O J EH W O M A N
Curating Culture Fashion stylist, dancer and all-round mover and shaker, Doha Challah speaks with MOJEH about her passion for the arts.
Interviewed by Sophie Pasztor
Doha is photographed by Borna Ahadi in her home wearing a dress by Valentino
Doha wears top by Warehouse, skirt by Chloé and shoes by Céline
What does fashion mean to you? I’m not a person who is fixated on trends; fashion to me is an authentic form of self-expression. You can really identify with your mood, confidence, and vulnerability through your choice of clothing. People’s style fuels my curiosity about their personality and how they want to be perceived. Secretly, I’m a style voyeur… Am I revealing too much? How does fashion and art connect? I collect art because I love to immerse myself in it; each piece represents a thought-provoking emotion that my husband and I can relate to. As for fashion, I have a less complicated process. Perhaps the common aesthetics between the two is form, ambiguity and desire. But unlike my collection, my personal style is more understated and abstract, mostly with an edge. What style of art are you drawn to? Mostly modern and contemporary art. I like bodies of work that make me feel (and question) things. They can’t just be pretty to look at. Tell us about the first piece of art you acquired. A colourful piece by a cubist artist from Miami. Has your taste evolved throughout the years? Sometimes my heart (and mind) become set on something, and usually those pieces are the ones that stand the test of time, largely because of what they represent to me. However, going to galleries, reading about artists and visiting museums help refine my taste and train the eye. Which piece from your collection resonates with you the most? A piece by Ayman Yossri Daydban called, Love Me, Love Me Not. It’s set on a lenticular screen with a freeze frame
62 Doha wears a jacket by Gucci
“Iranian-American artist, Ala Ebtikar, describes this work as a, ‘visual narrative that is a simultaneous deconstruction and reconstruction of time and space – a visual glimpse of a crossroad where present-day events meet history and mythology. The planes are an accurate replica of the ones used in the Iraq-Iran war, and the prayer pages are the same as the ones passed on from one generation to another in Iran… It’s from one of my favourite galleries in Dubai: The Third Line.”
from a shot of Denzel Washington playing Russian roulette in the movie Malcolm X. The image changes when you walk by it. The image depicts Malcolm pointing a gun to the right side of his temple. On the right, the caption reads in Arabic ‘love me’, and on the left of Malcolm’s head the caption reads ‘love me not’. It is my favourite piece because, essentially, love is not pretty and yet there is no running away from it – I think it’s brilliant! What’s inspirational about the regional art scene? I think Dubai’s art scene is very exciting. There are so many opportunities for young collectors to explore, learn about art and develop their passion through various events, such as Art Dubai. There are also plenty of museums and foundations that also support regional galleries and creatives. What common themes dominate the Middle Eastern art scene? Obviously, political situations have triggered our own rebellious movements, but other than that, a lot of Middle Eastern artists have managed to distinguish their art from the common cultural influence of the Middle East as perceived by the West.
“The Paul Sibuet Flow in white is our favourite edition, because we like the idea that adding all primary colours together yields as white – the colour of perfection.”
How would you describe your home’s interior? I think my home reflects my ‘taste du jour’. It’s quite eclectic at the moment. Any tips for young collectors? Do your research, go to as many shows and fairs as you can. Invest for love and try to maintain a certain narrative to give your collection a stronger point of view. Any favourite artists? Hard to name only a few, but maybe Robert Rauschenberg and Marcel Duchamp for their intellectual humour. Are you inspired when you travel? When it comes to our humble collection, the buying is a joint force between my husband and I. We try to build memories around each piece. That’s why, when we travel, we visit galleries, and we are constantly looking for something different and easy to integrate with our current collection. The joy of the pursuit makes the process more personal and dear to our hearts. What’s next? I’ve always tried to juxtapose my work in fashion to teaching dance classes. Both are close to my heart and go hand-in-hand - since they are both artistic and require passion, skill and experience. I want to continue working on a freelance basis as a stylist and consultant for established brands, emerging designers, magazines and online retailers. Also, I’m putting Dance Mash-Up on the map (watch this space).
“This piece we acquired recently is by a Tunisian Artist, Nicène Kossentini. It is particularly special because it’s our first work on paper. The artist drew Islamic geometric shapes in pencil and highlighted the core in watercolour; it represents our core values and how they shift (attract and repel) when impacted by outside influences, which is the state of our culture at the moment.”
64
S T YL E NOTE
Decoding The Season From cool collaborations and high jewellery must-haves to a galactic embrace, MOJEH breaks down the key styles for the month ahead. Photographed by BORNA AHADI Styled by SOPHIE PASZTOR
“I had a really good look through the archives to get an understanding of the history and their inspiration… So it was very much diving into the archive and mixing it with elements I find prevalent in my designs.” Nicholas Kirkwood on his collaboration with Bulgari.
Bag, BVLGARI
Shirt, top and trousers, GUCCI
Gucci’s creative director Alessandro Michele extends his repertoire of designer collaborations with young Spanish artist Coco Capitán, launching an exclusive capsule collection. The artist notes, “The focus was on the message and not so much
THE COLLABORATION
in the materials or platforms used to transmit it”.
66
THE MOTIF
Top, DOLCE&GABBANA | Cosmic Diner Hard Rocket Candle Holder, SELETTI at Cities Design, Art and Lifestyle Store
Bag, DIOR | Cosmic Diner Lunar Brass Box, SELETTI at Cities Design, Art and Lifestyle Store
Designers gaze toward the stars with astronomical-inspired motifs. Dolce&Gabbana departs from its signature Sicilian glamour to embrace mystical night skies and half-moons, while Dior retains its romantic zodiac references.
Bag, CHANEL
Chanel introduces us to the season’s new It bag. The rocket shaped carry-all will make a jovial addition to your wardrobe, and is thoughtfully decorated in the label’s trademark logo.
68 Embellish your look with pronounced metal accents by layering the season’s most noteworthy jewellery. Don’t be afraid to mix metals and experiment with coloured stones.
Left to right: Stackable lace rings – set of 5, SHEEN at S*uce Rocks | 18-karat gold ring with emeralds, amethysts and rubies, ZAABEL JEWELRY at S*uce Rocks | Liens Séduction bracelet in 18-karat white gold with brilliant-cut diamonds and Liens Séduction bracelet in 18-karat pink gold with brilliant-cut diamonds from the Liens collection, CHAUMET | Key To My Heart ring with a pave of diamonds in gold, CHARMALEENA at S*uce Rocks | 18-karat gold swirl ring with diamonds, SUZANNE KALAN at S*uce Rocks | Lighting Bolt eternity ring, MARMAR at S*uce Rocks
Shoe, SAINT LAURENT
Sunglasses, SAINT LAURENT
Top: Anthony Vaccarello is a man of details, rifling through the archives in an attempt to revamp the heritage house of Saint Laurent, and putting back the Y in YSL. A throwback to the original logo and seen in heels, moulded to jewellery and placed on stockings, the iconic emblem provides a welcomed dose of sartorial nostalgia. This season it makes its debut in electric shades of azure and cherry. Right: Eyewear is given a tough exterior with punk-metal studs that border frames and pair well with cigarette trousers and band tees.
Oversized knits are given new purpose as statement belts accentuate the female form, sculpting the waist for a structured look. Try complementing tough-metal hardware with fabrics that incorporate a subtle metallic sheen in their stitching.
The Allegra collection from De Grisogono shares a personal connection, embedded deep within its makeup. Bearing the name of founder Fawaz Gruosi’s first-born daughter, its playful design consists of elegant interwoven spirals, evoking the indestructible connection between two beings.
Earring, DE GRISOGONO
THE HARDWARE
Top, BALENCIAGA | belt, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
70 Jacket, MARNI | gloves, BOTTEGA VENETA
Bottega Veneta’s elbow-length gloves present an ode to old Hollywood glamour. Constructed in lustrous leather, they present a modern update to the retroinspired varieties, and are this
THE TEXTURE
season’s most coveted accessory.
Boot, BALENCIAGA
Reach new levels with thigh-high boots cased in patent leather for high-gloss shine. Styled best under a serviceable trench coat or an oversized knit dress.
Sleek, liquid-like leathers drape over the body, giving a refined finish to wardrobe staples. Look to invest in a new coat from designers such as Marni that will transition you from the office to after-hours gatherings with ease.
Coat and belt, MARNI
72 Earrings, DONNA HOURANI at S*uce Rocks
Embrace a rainbow of colour in your jewellery through a series of bright stones. Architectural designs such as an ear cuff or brooch work best.
The codes of colour step into overdrive with rainbow hues painted on everything from coats to bags. Artisanal details such as clever patchwork and contrasting mediums speak to your creative side, while the inclusion of gold ensures sophistication.
Bag, MARNI
Coat, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
Discovering the Cloutie tree on a trip to Cornwall, Sarah Burton dreamt up her autumn/ winter collection for Alexander McQueen. Their branches, decorated in colourful ribbons, represent the hopes and wishes of those who tied them. Burton translated this into a series of coats and dresses featuring
THE PALETTE
long colourful trails of thread.
74 Top to bottom: STELLA MCCARTNEY | GUCCI | VALENTINO
Nineties vision is back with a vengeance. Undersized, horizontally inclined shades present an ode to The Matrix, with a tough, but cool aesthetic. Picked up by names like Kendall Jenner and Rihanna, this retro look
THE SHAPE
leaves its mark as a firm favourite.
MOJEH.COM Our carefully curated digital platform delivers engaging, inspiring and timely content with exclusive access to the industry’s most influential players.
76
FA SH IO N F EATU RE
With last month’s Copenhagen Fashion Week serving as a visual smorgasbord of the sartorial nous the region has to offer, we unearth what makes Nordic style so unique.
of Fashion Scandinavia Dorothea Gundtoft. “150 years ago fashion wasn’t a part of our lifestyle, instead local villages had their own embroidery techniques and styles that were used for costume-like pieces worn at weddings and festive occasions that decorated with floral patterns. As our economy has changed and our cities have developed and grown, there’s now a focus on clothes that can be easily worn while bicycling as that’s how everyone gets around.” Weather has played a pivotal part
From the edgy power dressing of New York and
incredibly stylish, balance between laid-back
in the development of Nordic style due to the
the Gucci-esque excess of Milan, to the eclectic
and sophisticated, Scandinavian women (and
harsh climes that sees the region engulfed in
melting pot of London and the polished chic of
men) have well and truly eclipsed their European
winter for six months of the year, averaging
Paris, each of fashion’s four capitals have their
and international counterparts in the sartorial
six hours of sunlight per day. “Our weather is
own distinct style aesthetics. However, a new
stakes. Fusing both cool and comfort with
more often rainy than sunny,” laments Gundtoft,
collective of power players have steadily climbed
unsurpassed ease, these Danish, Norwegian
“which means that you need a good coat and
their way to the top in mule (and sneaker-clad
and Swedish natives have serious style game.
winter clothes – but they don’t have to be dull.
feet) carving out a strong fashion identity for
“Scandinavian style has always had a
Scandinavian interior design from the Fifties
Northern Europe. Striking a harmonious, and
tendency towards minimalism and practical
onwards including the architectural lines and
Images courtesy of Marianne Theodorsen, photographed by Timur Emek and Christian Vierig at Getty
THE SCANDI SET
wear,” explains the Danish stylist and author
Words by Mary Keenan
functionalism with an effortless mastery. Think:
site, which eventually led to the launch of her
timeless camel coats, black oversized cashmere
highly successful print magazine, Styleby. This
knits and super-cool denim paired with backless
paved the way for an outcrop of fashion insiders
loafers or Balenciaga’s Instagram-worthy floral
such as Kling’s colleague Columbine Smille
ankle boots for a look that’s understated and
and Pernille Teisbaek both locally and abroad.
slick. However, there are subtle differences
Stockholm and Copenhagen Fashion Weeks
between the aesthetics of the three nations.
now draw a large international crowd of both
“In the past Danish fashion designers were
press and buyers thanks to brands like Ganni
slightly more experimental than the Swedes,
and by Malene Birger, which helps to elevate
who kept their clothes relatively minimalistic,
younger brands and street style stars on an
and the Norwegians always had strong knitwear,
international scale. “A lot more of the international
but they were more daring with their prints,”
press are attending the Scandinavian fashion
says Gundtoft. “Today, I feel like it has changed
weeks and are showing an interest in our street
slightly. Norwegian designers have a more
style,” explains Gundtoft. “Now, the collections
fashion-forward approach to their branding
are suddenly featured on the websites of
and presentation now, while colour and prints
international fashion publications and the street
are definitely the new mood in Danish fashion,
style is huge. It brings a lot more focus onto our
with designers such as Saks Potts mixing
designers and gives them incentive to produce
different coloured fur and Baum und Pferdgarten
great collections – the world is watching!”
combining printed fabrics to quirky effect.”
The fashion industry within the Nordic nations
For Nordic brands, the smaller markets
is currently booming. “There are so many great
within their home nations cause them to
things happening on the Scandinavian fashion
expand internationally quickly and efficiently.
scene right now,” enthuses Theodorsen. “Some
Take Stutterheim, for example: the Swedish
brands to look out for are Norwegian Tom
practicality of designers such as Arne Jacobsen,
raincoat brand was stocked at Barney’s New
Wood, Admir Batlak, Edda Gimnes and Michael
Finn Juhl and Svenskt Tenn have also greatly
York within its first year of operation and has
Olestad – they’re all bringing something new
influenced our fashion,” she notes.
grown its production from three raincoats
and exciting to the game.” Gundtoft is quick to
“Our style might not be as glamorous as our
a day to between 500 to 800 per day in
agree. “Keep an eye on the newcomers,” she
friends down south, but I think Scandinavians
six years. Swedish streetwear brand Acne
advises. “Freya Dalsjö, Saks Potts and Mark
have a coolness that´s pretty unique,” quips
Studios has an international mindset, staging
Tan alongside Stine Goya who is famous for her
Norwegian blogger Marianne Theodorsen.
runway shows on the Paris Fashion Week
prints. Baum und Pferdgarten do make a fine
A quick scroll through her wildly popular
schedule and has stores in London, Tokyo,
wardrobe, alongside Swedish brands such as
Instagram account can confirm this – on any
Seoul and New York. A strong command of
Acne Studios, Filippa K, Ida Sjöstedt, Totême
given day she could be rocking a checked
the English language often sees Scandinavian
and the Norwegian designers FWSS, Veronica
midi skirt with a hoodie and Hermès Birkin
brands launching English websites from their
B. Vallenes, and Elisabeth Stray Pedersen.”
bag or a slinky Proenza Schouler halter dress
inception, which makes them accessible
While the Middle Eastern climate is dramatically
with Marimekko patterned boots. “Essentially,
to a much larger international audience.
different to that of Northern Europe, following the
we’re laid back and practical and mix luxury
Social media has been one of the driving forces
Scandinavian style set’s lead towards garments
with brands like H&M and Zara – the key lies
behind the rise of Scandi street style fashion,
that offer quality and wear-ability is a wise move.
in putting your own unique twist on it.”
with Elin Kling arguably the first person to
“The key takeaways from our style is to wear
Built upon a solid foundation of tonal
put modern Scandinavian style on the map.
clothes that are practical for everyday activities,
monochrome palettes, uncomplicated clean
Kling started out as a blogger alongside the
with a focus on sustainability and items that are
lines and fluid silhouettes with just the right
likes of Anna Dello Russo, Rumi Neely and
well-made,” advises Gundtoft. “Combine classic
amount of bold colour and print thrown
Tommy Ton on the Now Manifest website and
elements, such as great cottons, cashmeres,
in, Scandi style combines minimalism and
picked up international cross-traffic from the
silks and pieces with architectural details.”
78 PERNILLE TEISBAEK Instantly recognisable by her shaggy blonde locks, the co-founder and creative director of Danish influencer marketing agency Social Zoo is street style icon. Playfully experimenting with proportion and structure, Teisbaek is a true style chameleon. Whether strolling the streets in an oversized turtleneck and faded jeans or spotted on her way to shows in a plaid shorts suit and sneakers, Teisbaek exudes polished nonchalance.
CAROLINE BLOMST Swedish street style blogger Caroline Blomst knows more than a thing or two about fashion. With a fervent Instagram following of almost 95,000 she’s a regular fixture on the streets of Stockholm. An ardent proponent of athleisurestyle separates, tailored blazers and contemporary outerwear, Blomst plays confidently with colour and print and has mastered the art of mixing high street and high fashion with unparalleled ease.
MARIANNE THEODORSEN Norwegian public relations director and blogger Marianne Theodorsen has become known for her distinctly relaxed style that she infuses with a sharp streetwear edge. Pairing the prettiest of summer dresses with old school checkered Vans and leather biker jackets and faded vintage denim with sparkly Gucci slip on loafers, Theodorsen has a knack for combining old and new in a way that looks fresh and uncontrived.
ELIN KLING Playing a pivotal role in putting Scandinavian style on the map, Kling launched her blog Style by Kling in 2007 which was an overnight success. Two years later she started her own magazine Styleby before launching ready-towear brand TotĂŞme in 2014. Known for her less is more approach to styling, Kling nails simple sophistication in her rota of white shirts, black denim, turtlenecks and boxy knits.
80 BY MALENE BIRGER Sleek, modern and minimal, By Malene Birger’s success lies in its simplicity. Launched by acclaimed Danish designer Malene Birger in 2004, the brand revolves around a thoughtfully curated core of layerable basics that every woman should own including mohair knitwear, leather trousers, tailored shirts, diaphanous dresses, wide-legged pants and understated tees.
GANNI Created by Ditte and Nicolaj Reffstrup in 2009, Copenhagen-based brand Ganni draws inspiration from the streets of the Danish capital with a contemporary yet easy to wear aesthetic. From dainty drop-waist dresses to romantic lace tops and leopard print coats to athletic stripe T-shirts, Ganni appeals to women looking for uncomplicated elegance.
ACNE STUDIOS Johnny Johansson is something of a household name in Scandinavia. The designer is the creative mind behind cult Swedish label Acne Studios. Rooted deeply in streetwear culture with his denim offerings commanding cult status, Johansson also draws from art and architecture resulting in clothes that sit between the essential and the eccentric.
BAUM UND PFERGARDEN Rikke Baumgarten and Helle Hestehave are the design duo behind this playful Danish brand. Established in 1999 their designs contrast strong colours against clashing prints and are imbued with a modern sportswear vibe. A firm favourite with the fashion set, their show is one of the most highly anticipated at Copenhagen Fashion Week.
82
MONOCHROME MANTRA
SE A S O N A L S TY LE
Checkerboard hues articulate timeless sophistication and are personified through immaculate design. Look to pieces that add a point of interest through intricate patterns or strategically balance opposing shades.
Compiled by Sophie Pasztor
ANDREW GN
1. M2MALLETIER | 2. N°21 BY LINDA FARROW | 3. DE GRISOGONO | 4. TEMPERLEY LONDON | 5. CHANEL | 6. ALBERTA FERRETTI | 7. ROSETTA GETTY at BySymphony
UTILITARIAN BLUES
84
DIOR
Blue is the new black and navy is its commanding shade. Paired best against serviceable denim and in modest silhouettes, this colour goes perfectly with robust accessories and when accented with metal hardware.
1. ROSETTA GETTY at BySymphony | 2. LOUIS LEEMAN at Level Shoes | 3. MATICEVSKI | 4. HERMÈS | 5. COACH | 6. YUUL YIE | 7. TIBI
86
FA SH IO N P R O F I LE
A Sense of Occasion Known for their ability to seamlessly fuse sophistication and sensuality, Carly Cushnie and Michelle Ochs have got creating refined event attire down to a fine art. The New York-based duo share their insights on statement dressing for the season ahead.
Words by Mary Keenan
“It’s about modern sensuality,” Carly Cushnie
of impact. “Each season, we research an idea
explains of the design vision she shares with her
and expand upon that through the exploration
fellow designer and business partner Michelle
of colour and fabric before we define what the
Ochs. “We aim to create classic, iconic pieces
silhouettes and details of the season will be. Only
for the modern woman – basically we design
then does the sketching begin – we each sketch
the pieces that we want and need in our own
separately and we bring our ideas together,”
closets,” she says with a laugh. Carly and
explains Carly. “This season we looked to
Michelle met while studying at Parsons School
American artist Robert Smithson for inspiration,”
of Design in New York. Their similar aesthetics
recounts Michelle. “His broken glass sculptures
and shared creative tastes caused them to form
informed the icy tones, sharp angular lines and
a close friendship and upon graduating in 2007
the lace detailing of the collection.” From well-
the two decided to combine forces. A year later
cut jumpsuits and tuxedo jackets to peek-a-boo
they officially launched their eponymous brand,
bodycon and sheath dresses, the collection
Cushnie et Ochs, and debuted their spring/
holds endless options for women who require
summer09 collection at New York Fashion Week.
their wardrobes to exude round-the-clock allure.
The rest, as they say, is history. There have been plenty of milestones along the way to the
A sharply cut, collarless tuxedo jacket paired with trousers made a strong and appealing case for standout red carpet style
pair’s fast approaching 10-year anniversary, including winning the Ecco Domani Fashion Fund Award, selling a stake of their company to private investors and the expansion of their brand into accessories, not to mention the fact that their ready-to-wear offerings are consistently worn by some of the most powerful and influential women in the world – Michelle Obama, Rihanna and Selena Gomez are among them. Despite all their success, they remain extremely down to earth and have continued to work hard at developing and fine-tuning their sleekly tailored designs that celebrate the female form. “As women, we want versatility and longevity from our wardrobes. As designers, we want to be able to dress our women from day to dusk or from dusk to day – in whichever order works for them,” Michelle says with a wink. It’s this profound understanding of what their peers want – laced with a touch of lightheartedness – that has seen the pair triumph by bringing together quality and functionality with just the right amount of sex appeal and sass. “While our woman has grown with us, she always remains the same. She’s strong and confident, yet feminine and sexy,” expounds Michelle. “She’s a modern woman who is unapologetically bold in all that she does. We want to give her timeless and striking updates to her wardrobe season after season.” The duo’s autumn/winter17 collection shown in New York earlier this year was a natural progression from their spring/summer show, consisting of simple yet powerful silhouettes that weren’t overtly ostentatious but held plenty
Carly Cushnie and Michelle Ochs
88
Dresses and tops with full length sleeves and midi hemlines were cut away to frame dĂŠcolletages and shoulders
Sequin embellishments brought a hint of playfulness and a luxurious sheen to the collection’s eveningwear silhouettes
The duo debuted their first handbag collection which consisted of structured origami-like silhouettes on the runway
When it comes to naming the most glamorous
As the end of the year approaches, things show
look of the collection, Carly and Michelle are
no sign of slowing down for Michelle and Carly,
divided. “I love the midnight navy cocktail dress
who have just shown their spring/summer18
with the angular neckline and sequins because
collection and simultaneously debuted their
it’s sexy, glam and modern all at once,” declares
foray into footwear at New York Fashion Week.
Carly. “The finale look from our runway show is
“We can’t wait to receive our new handbags,
a glamorous, modern show-stopper,” counters
which we launched this season! This has been a
Michelle. “With head-to-toe embroidery and
much-anticipated category for us, and we’re so
glitter – it makes you look like a disco ball and
excited to carry our own bags around with us,”
you’ll command the attention of any room.”
highlights Michelle. If the recent Emmy Awards,
As purveyors of red carpet attire, Carly and
where Lea Michele and Padma Lakshmi donned
Michelle have their fingers well and truly on the
Cushnie et Ochs ensembles, are anything to go
pulse when it comes to what women should be
by, the duo’s standout designs will no doubt be
wearing come event season. “We’d like to see
in high demand as the film and entertainment
people taking more risks on the red carpet this
industry heads into awards and events season.
season and we especially want to see more
The lace detailing on garments was inspired by American artist, Robert Smithson’s, broken glass sculptures
pants!” Michelle asserts. “Pants should be more acceptable on the red carpet – we’re waiting for our moment to dress someone in a really amazing jumpsuit or trouser look for an award show.” Carly is quick to agree, “We believe jumpsuits and formal pant looks should take centre stage this season. Play with separates by pairing a great bodysuit or crop top with pants or a skirt, or try out a fitted suit. It’s all about power dressing.” Having found themselves on many a red carpet over the years, Carly swears by a strong cat’s eye or red lip as the key to pulling off any ensemble. For Michelle it’s sleek hair either worn blunt and straight or tiedback tightly. In the time that they’ve worked together, Michelle and Carly have developed systems to bring their respective ideas together cohesively. “Because there are two of us, we have a vast amount of ideas and thoughts that we need to narrow down each season,” explains Carly. “Two heads are always better than one,” echoes Michelle. “Our differences complement each other, which always works to balance out our collections. We like being able to bounce ideas back and forth against each other and making directional decisions together each season. This results in the strongest representation of our collective vision.” However, it hasn’t always been smooth sailing; the pair took a major risk for their autumn/winter10 collection, which paid off in the end. “We had a change of heart just three weeks before the show, and ended up changing the entire collection,” recalls Carly. “We switched everything from the fabrics to the designs and the colours and even brought on a new stylist. It’s still one our favourite collections to date.”
Carly and Michelle showcased their love of alternate eveningwear silhouettes sending out a series of jumpsuits and trouser looks
90
S E A S O NA L M O M E NT S
Icon Status We look back to the most talked about moments from the autumn/winter shows to see how fashion is moving forward for the season.
Words by Sophie Pasztor
The Tribute – Stella McCartney made a touching tribute to the late George Michael for the label’s finale. Models formed a flash mob while dancing to the singer’s iconic song, Faith.
The Reunion – Dries Van Noten enlisted his former 90s muses to be part of his 100th show for a reunion like no other.
STELLA MCCARTNEY
DRIES VAN NOTEN
92 The Home Coming – Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim made their debut for Oscar de la Renta, bringing with them a freshness that speaks to a younger demographic. Key design fundamentals such as resplendent embroidery and sophisticated sensibilities remained at the collection’s core.
OSCAR DE LA RENTA
Digital Domination – Dolce&Gabbana showed us the digital age has never been more imperative. Following last season’s selfie-themed runway, the designer duo once again opted to shake things up, electing influencers over models to unveil their new collection. This comes after Rebecca Minkoff’s similar spring/summer show that saw bloggers Chriselle Lim, Arielle Nachmani, Gala Gonzalez, Caroline Vreeland and Shea Marie take to the runway to promote the ‘see now, buy now’ concept trending by many a designer such as Burberry, Tommy Hilfiger and Tom Ford.
DOLCE&GABBANA
The Mood – The enthralling atmosphere generated at the Saint Laurent show was provoked by the venue’s raw amphitheatre, where we witnessed compelling after-dark looks that gleamed in iridescent light.
SAINT LAURENT
94
A Night At The Museum – Staged inside the incredible Louvre museum, Louis Vuitton used the Cour Marly hall to platform its collection, weaving around an exceptional collection of sculptures commissioned by Louis XIV for the gardens of the Château de Marly. The house’s wanderlust approach to location scouting continued as the maison travelled to Kyoto in Japan for the brand’s cruise collection.
ALBERTA FERRETTI
LOUIS VUITTON
The Look – The desire for a polished complexion has returned, as bold beauty trends replace fresh skin looks with graphicly lined eyes and bold pigments.
96 Fresh Faces – Model diversity spoke to the times, with varying ages, nationalities, religions and body shapes unifying brands. Halima Aden was the first Hijab-wearing model, making her debut at Max Mara and Alberta Ferretti, Winnie Harlow continued to show us that imperfections can be our greatest weapons and designers such as Vetements and Dries Van Noten showed us that age has no limits.
ALBERTA FERRETTI
A Fluid Future – Alessandro Michele’s first amalgamated female/male collection blurred the confines of gender bigotry. Crystalembellished mesh masks became tools of concealment, disguising the identity of his models. Vivienne Westwood, Vetements and Public School are among some of the other names to make this move.
GUCCI
Breaking The Mould – Contemporary labels such as Marco de Vincenzo and MSGM remain experimental with ambitious designs and an eccentric vision. Their innovative use of contrasting mediums like faux fur, PVC and mixing opposing prints such as leopard and tartan challenge other traditional names.
MSGM
98
MOSCHINO
Advocating Activism – Social and political activism or direct overarching statements became prevalent, as fashion was used as a vessel to gain a greater reach. Prabal Gurung’s finale saw models walk out in statements that read “This is what a feminist looks like”, Alice + Olivia opted for shirts that read “Be the change you wish to see in the world”, Jonathan Simkhai donned a “Feminist AF” shirt and several designers, including Tommy Hilfiger, Thakoon, Phillip Lim, Dior and Diane von Furstenberg, displayed white bandanas in their shows as a symbol of inclusivity and acceptance.
CHLOÉ
A New Chapter – Clare Waight Keller’s tenure at Chloé came to an end after a memorable six-year reign. Nostalgic references of music and film hovered over her parting collection while celebrations backstage came in the form of golden confetti. We wait with eager anticipation to see how her whimsical aesthetic will imprint on her new role as creative director at Givenchy.
100
FA SH IO N F EATU RE
COPY CATS Imitation is said to be the most sincere form of flattery, apart from when it comes to the fashion industry. As logomanina, brand subversion, and hi-lo collaborations dominate our desires, MOJEH discovers how fashion learnt to embrace the bootleggers.
Images courtesy of Gucci and Getty photographed by Christian Vierig, Edward Berthelot, Vanni Bassetti, Daniel Zuchnik, and Ben Pruchnie
Words by Laura Beaney
Vetements x Champion
Has logomania finally reached its peak? Not quite. The barely-there branding that perpetuated the recession-era has well and truly dissolved, in place of the four understated white stitches that subtly signified Margiela are ballooned Fendi logos emblazoned across rucksacks, gaudy Gucci lettering scrawled in spray paint over tees and enlarged YSL lettering dangling from the ears in yellow gold. And then there’s the new names in fashion like Vetements that look to logo-play as an integral element of their brand identity. Since the mid-Noughties we’ve been shifting towards a ‘bigger and bolder is better’ stance, but there’s more to this trend than a sudden upward sweeping trajectory of logo love. Our understanding of conspicuous branding is fickle. What was once viewed as a status symbol and outward display of wealth became a marker of poor taste during the rise of Céline, The Row and Bottega Veneta. So when it comes to brandishing brand names there’s a certain sense of cynicism and irony attached that hasn’t gone unnoticed by those outside the French fashion houses. Back in 2006, renegade designer, Brian Lichtenberg, decided to materialise this sentiment. One of his most popular attempts was the Homiés subversion of the Hermès logo that shot to fame after Rihanna was spotted wearing a sweater that almost immediately sold out. Street style soon saw lovers of high fashion accessorising with Homiés bobble hats and authentic Birkins in unison, the conjunction of the real and the subversion showed that the wearer was in on fashion’s joke. Lichtenberg’s work became notorious with no house left unturned,
Gucci’s Cruise 2018 jacket recalled one that Dapper Dan had designed in 1989
Balenciaga’s holdalls have recently been compared to Ikea carriers and Thai market bags
102
Today’s catwalks are rife with references to popular culture, but it began with Andy Warhol during the 60s.
Chanel, Commes des Garçons, and Balmain all befell the recontextualisation treatment. Since Lichtenberg, logo subversion has become all the rage but it’s by no means a new phenomenon. Its roots can be traced back to Warhol’s Campbell’s Soup Cans (1962) and seen in the anti-globalisation movement of the 90s and Naomi Klein’s ‘No Logo: Taking Aim at the Brand Bullies’. “For streetwear designers defacing iconic logos can be both a tonguein-cheek homage to high fashion – think SSUR’s riffs on the Comme des Garçons logo telling us to ‘Comme de F**k Down’ – while also subverting luxury branding, bringing it down to earth from its rarefied position,” explains Melanie Plank, trend forecaster and UEL fashion marketing programme leader. “It’s a fashion ‘in-joke’ that only those in the know will Gosha Rubchinskiy x Fila
get, creating a cult status that appeals to fashionsavvy millennials.” Other logo appropriations such
Loaded with logo: Versace autumn/winter17
Sportswear overlapped with luxury embodies the hi-lo obsession
as Vetements’ cult DHL T-shirt take banality and use it as an anti-fashion statement. You can’t get more ubiquitous, less exclusive and more anti-luxury than DHL. In the same way that Warhol made us question what art is, designers are questioning what constitutes luxury albeit in a tongue-in-cheek way. Today, style consumers are both savvy and educated, thanks to the plethora of content on offer from live show streamings to hashtag campaigns and digital influencers spreading messages across social media. Millennials don’t just buy into any profitable brand, they approach their clothes with caution, intrigued by the production process and quality of the material, seeking current and authentic brand stories, and unexpected collaborations. “We live in meme-obsessed, gif-happy world where visual puns have moved from Instragram into our visual culture,” says Plank. “You just need to look at the #TFWGucci campaign and its recent collaboration with notable meme artists to promote its new watch collection to see how luxury brands are embracing Internet culture. Branding subversion is an extension of this cut-and-paste, hi-lo culture clash that has come to define our visual culture.” Clothing that is meme-able is also shareable and therefore highly desirable. Vetememes, a US brand that produced a parody of the Vetements branding, saw its raincoat go viral. An ironic take on a brand known for its ironic takes, Vetmemes is aping the meme culture that is the driving force of online youth culture. Away from the catwalk, Reilly, a London-based graphic
Anya Hindmarch spring/summer16
104 High fashion uptakes branded sportswear
Current season branding nears full saturation
designer and art director, lends digital humour to the land of logos. “The sheer power that some logos can carry is astonishing; people sometimes only need to see the colours to recognise the brand instantly,” he says. Known for reimagining Margiela as McDonalds, and Lanvin as Lidl, Reilly’s favourite and most famous offering created a social media storm. Working with a photograph of Celine Dion carrying a Dior handbag at the Dior Couture autumn/ winter17 show, Reilly doctored the image so the bag was emblazoned with ‘Céline Dior’. Style confusion and rumors of a forthcoming collaboration ensued but his work was regrammed by the House of Dior, who jokingly captioned: “A new member of the Dior family has just been baptised: welcome Céline!” Fashion has become fixated with parody, counterfeits, and most recently collaboration. What was once seen as ripping-off is now seen as an homage, and the bootleggers are becoming the bootlegged. 25 years after the industry’s key players forced couturier Daniel Day to close the doors of his infamous Harlem boutique, one of his aggressors is looking to rebuild bridges. Better known as Dapper Dan, during the 80s and early 90s Day’s 24-hour store sold custom-made extravagant outfits engulfed in an excess of fake logos, from fashion houses like Gucci and Louis Vuitton, catering to rappers, gangsters and those searching for streetcred via conspicuous consumption. It did not go Insider’s jokes remain part of the fashion rhetoric
unnoticed that some elements of Gucci’s Cruise 2018 collection referenced a design made by Dapper
Vetements spring/summer16
Dan in 1989 without due credit to the couturier. Taking a contemporary stance towards the issue, Gucci has announced that it will be collaborating with Dapper Dan on a capsule collection and sponsoring the relaunch of a new Dapper Dan atelier. But why are brands now embracing imitation? Of course, it depends on who’s doing the jacking. When it’s a cult brand with significant millennial pull, like say, Supreme, then both brands stand to benefit. “These subversions by designers and cult brands and the customers who buy them are in on the joke,” says Plank. “There’s no pretense, no intention to deceive; this is about humour and irony. To object would be seen to be missing the joke, meaning the joke is on you. No brand wants that.” To not be subverted today is to not be relevant and what’s worse than being talked about? Not being talked about at all.
Brian Lichtenberg, Homiés, 2006
106
FA SH I O N F EATU RE
All Roads Lead to Outer Space With cosmic connections a recurring theme on many of the season’s leading runways, is the fashion industry ready to lift off into unchartered territories?
Images courtesy of Gucci and Chanel
Words by Mary Keenan
Paco Rabanne autumn/winter17
108
Inspired by space suits and rockets, these Parisian designers crafted radically new miniskirts and pantsuits.
Annakiki autumn/winter17
This season marked the re-emergence of Space Age-inspired clothing. First seen in the Sixties, and later recycled during Studio 54’s heyday, space-age ensembles returned with a vengeance across New York, Milan, London and Paris in February. Brands such as Aigner and Christopher Kane crafted experimental iridescent fabrics into sleek outer space-worthy dresses, while at Balenciaga, Philipp Plein and OffWhite ensembles in futuristic shades of silver borrowed from astronaut suits and explorative puffer coats. At Paco Rabanne, Julien Dossena took us back to the future by seeking inspiration from far away galaxies, presenting separates and dresses cut from shimmering silver chainmail that the brand’s namesake would have been proud of. David Koma’s highly exaggerated angular shoulders at Mugler resembled alien attire and master showman Karl Lagerfeld blasted off even further into the stratosphere with his Chanel Ground Control show featuring sparkly moon boots and astronaut motifs as well as a set equipped with an enormous rocket that appeared to launch through the roof of the Grand Palais. It wasn’t just the clothes that sent showgoers into orbit, Wanda Nylon autumn/winter17
at Dolce&Gabbana the brand’s signature Sicily handbag was emblazoned with a colourful array of comets, shooting stars and rocketships while Manish Arora’s Cosmic Love collection came complete with glittery planet clutch bags slung from chain straps. Beauty looks channeled galactic glamour too with swathes of metallic eyeshadow in a spectrum of bold hues seen at Anna Sui, Maison Margiela, Versus Versace and Annakiki. In order to understand why this trend is where and what it is today, it’s integral for us to return to the beginning. The space race of the late 1950s and 1960s between the Soviet Union and United States had a huge societal impact globally... The era represented significant developments in exploration and unprecedented advancements in aeronautical achievements, which was reflected in the materials and silhouettes seen in fashion at the time. “Space Age style first appeared within the fashion world in the early 1960s when French designers like Paco Rabanne, Pierre Cardin, and Andrew Courrèges took inspiration from the Space Race and science fiction films to create sleek, minimalist, and, often, unisex garments in futuristic materials like plastic
and metal,” explains fashion historian Dr Kimberly
gogo boots, silver boxy dresses and goggles, while
Chrisman-Campbell. “Their designs were dramatically
Pierre Cardin presented a collection complete with
different from the grand and elegant styles of leading
astronaut helmets and dresses cut from high-shine
haute couturiers,” notes Patricia Mears, deputy director
transparent vinyl. Rabanne was tasked with designing
of The Museum at New York’s Fashion Institute of
the costumes for the science fiction film Barbarella,
Technology. “Inspired by space suits and rockets, these
which was released in 1968. Starring Jane Fonda in
Parisian designers crafted radically new miniskirts and
a series of futuristic yet undeniably sexy bodysuits,
pantsuits which were sleek, reductive, and geometric,
chainmail mini dresses and bikinis and white patent
rendered almost exclusively in white and pale colours
over-the-knee boots, the film’s outfits were not too far
with metallic and plastic trimmings.” Courrèges’ work
removed from Gucci’s present-day intergalactic warriors
in particular, which earnt the designer a personal invite
in their Gucci and Beyond autumn/winter17 campaign.
to NASA, stemmed from a deep fascination with space
The Space Age era ended in 1972 with NASA’s last
exploration which materialised in the form of white
mission to the Moon and Space Age-style waned
110 1. Dolce&Gabbana autumn/winter17 | 2. Pierre Cardin 1968 | 3. Emporio Armani autumn/winter17 | 4. Lacoste autumn/winter17 | 5. J.W. Anderson autumn/winter17
1
2
3
4
5
1
2
3
4
1. Barabarella 1968 | 2. Pierre Cardin 1968 | 3. Gucci & Beyond | 4. Chanel autumn/winter17
112
simultaneously, giving way to the flares, maxi dresses
seemingly never-ending terrorist activity and threats,
and psychedelic prints that went on to sartorially
could the reemergence of this trend represent a desire
define the decade.
for a better and brighter future, regardless of whether
Fashion has long been a form of escapism for many,
it’s on this planet or the next? “There is likely a link
so perhaps this season’s return to futuristic clothing
between Space-Age style and the current political
is not simply down to coincidence. A recurring theme
environment. Fashion is a good social and cultural
within pop culture too with shows like Stranger Things
barometer because it can either embrace or reject the
and recent films such as Arrival, Life, Passengers
world at large. One could say that the anti-science
and The Space Between Us broaching the subject
sentiments of some populists have inspired some
of extraterrestrial activity and humankind’s quest
designers to proactively support the role of science
to inhabit other planets. With all of this occurring
and scientists, including those who work to advance
amid the political backlash against Donald Trump,
exploration of the world beyond our planet,” reasons
heated climate change debates, the Brexit fallout and
Mears. Meanwhile, Dr Chrisman-Campbell has a
...Could the reemergence of this trend represent a desire for a better and brighter future, regardless of whether it’s on this planet or the next?
Brandon Maxwell autumn/winter17
slightly rosier outlook, “Historically, Space-Age style has been linked to optimism, not instability. I think its return reflects confidence in technology rather than government. SpaceX and NASA’s Mars explorations have ushered in a new Space Age, divorced from the geopolitics of the 1960s. A new generation of Star Wars and Star Trek films is making space trendy again. Fashion technology has advanced, too, giving us clothes and textiles produced with 3D printers and fibre optic cables. But much of this fall’s Space Age fashion is less futuristic than nostalgic for the more innocent era of the original Space Age. It’s a way of going back to the future.” When it comes to incorporating elements of Space Age dressing into this season’s wardrobe, simplicity is essential. Picking one or two key separates that can easily be interspersed with clean and classic pieces is definitely the way to tap into this trend without looking contrived. “I think to invest into this trend, I would go for the silver skirt from Balenciaga,” advises stylist Anna Klein. “It has a simplicity that makes it work for any occasion and you won’t tire of it after wearing it a few times. My recommendation would be to mix it with basics such as a T-shirt, turtleneck, big sweater or vintage denim to get a relaxed, modern and fashionable look.” Accessories with a hint of playfulness such as Manish Arora’s colourful planet clutches or Chanel’s rocket bag are also worthy investments as they will hold their own from season to season. “I’m a big fan of Paco Rabanne’s collection and the updated classics from Courrèges. There are also some pieces from J.W. Anderson, Loewe and Ann-Sofie Back in amazing fabrics and silhouettes.” So where does that leave us? With innovator Elon Musk teaming up with NASA to probe the possibility of colonising Mars and Richard Branson’s Virgin Galactic poised to make its first suborbital flight by the end of 2018, it turns out that the sky is most definitely not the limit, but in the meantime, we’re more than okay with biding our time and channeling our inner Barbarella by conjuring up an otherworldly smoky eye with one of Pat McGrath’s Dark Star kits and donning a pair of Chanel’s scintillating moon boots with one of Christopher Kane’s high-shine metallic cardigans.
114
FIELDS OF FALL Tweed takes on a futuristic form this winter with barely-there slithers of silver thread shining through intricate weaves. Bring knits into a new-era with glistening, high-shine footwear, head-pieces and thigh-skimming hemlines.
Photographed by MARKUS LAMBERT Styled by KELLY BALDWIN
Coat in multi-coloured fantasy wool tweed, Bermuda shorts in multi-coloured fantasy wool tweed, tights in silver polyamide, wrist warmers in pink alpaca wool embroidered with little stones and sparkling silver boots with black patent leather toe caps, CHANEL
116
Dress in white crĂŞpe embroidered with black vinyl, Bermuda shorts in white crĂŞpe embroidered with black vinyl, wrist warmers in navy blue alpaca wool embroidered with little stones and metal brooch embellished with faux pearls, CHANEL
Dress in black printed chiffon, top in black coated jersey, wrist warmers in black wool embroidered with little stones, tights in black and silver polyamide and sparkling white boots with black patent leather toe caps, CHANEL
118
Sweater in black embroidered wool, skirt in black sequinned cotton canvas, anthracite grey knitted headband embroidered with crystals and sparkling white boots with black patent leather toe caps, CHANEL
Grey knitted headband embroidered with rhinestones and dress in black sequinned tweed with removable collar in white duchess satin, CHANEL
120
Dress in black silk tulle embroidered with black vinyl, wrist warmers in iridescent cashmere, tights in silver polyamide and sparkling silver boots with black patent leather toe caps, CHANEL
Checked tunic in sparkling black and white tulle, skirt in pearl white fantasy tweed, cuffs in silver metal embellished with faux pearls and rhinestones, tights in silver polyamide and sparkling silver boots with black patent leather toe caps, CHANEL
122
Dress in black embroidered satin, CHANEL
Jacket in black and navy blue embroidered organza, top in black coated jersey, trousers in iridescent blue-green leather and tweed and sparkling silver boots with black patent leather toe caps, CHANEL
Model: Marta Pawlowska Makeup artist: Jihye Sim Hair stylist: Davide Barbieri Styling assistant: Melissa Von Doom Videography (watch on MOJEH.com): Dominic Clarke
As eveningwear enters into our psyche, futuristic high-shine elements are brought down to earth with fine and feminine florals. Give the grown-up evening gown a contemporary twist with intricately embellished flats or precisely pointed boots.
Photographed by JESSE LAITINEN Styled by INA LEKIEWICZ
Dress and choker, DIOR
Dress, PIERRE BALMAIN @netaporter
128
Dress, VALENTINO
Dress, PREEN
130
Dress, SONIA RYKIEL
Scarf, CEREMONY LONDON | dress, DE LA VALI @brownsfashion | shoes, MIU MIU
Dress, MULBERRY | shoes, DIOR
134
Dress, SONIA RYKIEL | shoes, MIU MIU
Dress, ELISABETH AND JAMES @netaporter
Model: Celine Delaugere Makeup artist: Potsang Ho Hair stylist: Pablo Kumin Styling assistant: Melissa Von Doom Casting director: Cicek Michelle Brown
COLOURLESS COMMAND Monochrome combinations let purposeful styling and expertly executed cuts do the talking. Keep conversational and contemporary by opting for cream rather than white and accessorise with commanding chokers and this season’s beret hat.
Photographed by DANILO HESS Styled by STACEY CUNNINGHAM
Top and dress, LOUIS VUITTON | earrings and bracelets, Eddie Borgo | Rings, Repossi
Dress, JASON WU | bag, EDDIE BORGO | choker, ISLYNYC | cuffs, RALPH MASRI | rings, HAARSTICK | ring, MARLO LAZ
Jumpsuit, CHANEL | belt and boots, LOUIS VUITTON | beret, EUGENIA KIM | earrings and ring, REPOSSI | choker and bracelet, EDDIE BORGO | collar, MOLLIE CUTLER | ring, stylist’s own
Waistcoat, trousers, cuff and earrings, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
Jacket, SAINT LAURENT | choker, EDDIE BORGO | earring, DE LARRA
Cardigan and skirt, GUCCI | top and boots, ALEXANDER WANG | belt, TOM FORD | earrings, HAARSTICK | cuff, SYD + PIA NYC
Model: Lauren De Graaf at The Society Makeup artist: Mark Edio Hair stylist: Menelaos Alevras Photography assistant: Sam Phillippe
SEASONAL S
H
E
E
N
Bulgari’s extraordinary floral elements appear in a seductive array of warm and rich jewel tones unfold them around your fingers and let them ornament your lobes. Wield multiple options upon the fingers for elevated impact and style with floral details to drive-home the style sentiments of the season.
Photographed by RIO-ROMAINE Styled by KELLY BALDWIN
Diva’s Dream ring in pink gold with mother-of-pearl and pavé diamonds, Diva’s Dream ring in pink gold with pavé diamonds and Diva’s Dream ring in pink gold with mother-of-pearl and malachite, BVLGARI | dress, GUCCI
Diva’s Dream necklace and bracelet in pink gold with amethyst, rubellite and pavÊ diamonds and high jewellery Extravaganza earrings in pink gold with spinels, amethysts, peridots and diamonds, BVLGARI | shirt, FENDI
Diva’s Dream earrings in pink gold with amethyst, rubellite and pavÊ diamonds, BVLGARI
High Jewellery Diva’s Dream necklace in pink gold with rubellite, amethyst and diamonds and Diva’s Dream necklace in pink gold with mother-of-pearl and pavé diamonds, BVLGARI | top, SALVATORE FERRAGAMO
Diva’s Dream necklace and bracelet in white gold with lapis lazuli, chrysoprase and pavé diamonds, Diva’s Dream rings in white gold with mother-of-pearl and pavé diamonds and Diva’s Dream ring in white gold with emerald and pavé diamonds, BVLGARI | top, VERSACE
Diva’s Dream necklace in pink gold with mother-of-pearl, carnelian and pavé diamonds and Diva’s Dream earrings in pink gold with rubellite, amethyst and pavé diamonds, BVLGARI | top, AIGNER
Diva’s Dream high jewellery earrings in white gold with round brilliant cut diamonds and pavé diamonds, Diva’s Dream ring in white gold with emerald and pavé diamonds and Diva’s Dream ring in white gold with mother-of-pearl and pavé diamonds, BVLGARI | dress, VALENTINO
Diva’s Dream high jewellery earrings in white gold with round brilliant cut diamonds and pavé diamonds, BVLGARI | dress, VALENTINO
Model: Sanje at Wilhelmina Makeup artist: Marisol Stewart Hair stylist: Ania Poniatowska
La Mini D De Dior watch, La Mini D De Dior Satine watch and La D De Dior Satine watch, DIOR TIMEPIECES
VELOCITY OF LIGHT Jewels and timepieces share craftsmanship so expertly executed they emit an otherworldly quality this season. Look to precious stones and shining facades with compelling and refreshing flashes of colour to illuminate pared-back wardrobe choices.
Photographed by RUI FARIA Styled by KELLY BALDWIN
Left page: Dior VIII Grand Bal Plissé Ruban watch, DIOR TIMEPIECES This page: Archi necklace, DIOR FINE JEWELLERY
Rose Dior Bagatelle necklace, Rose Des Vents ring, Archi ring and Bois de Rose bracelet, DIOR FINE JEWELLERY
This page: Archi earrings, DIOR FINE JEWELLERY Right page: Archi rings, Rose Dior Pre Catelan ring, Rose Dior Bagatelle ring and Bois de Rose ring, DIOR FINE JEWELLERY
Left page: La Mini D De Dior Satine watches, DIOR TIMEPIECES This page: Dior VIII Montaigne Ligne Corolle Rose watch, DIOR TIMEPIECES Model: Sibui at Next Models | Makeup artist: Linda Öhrström | Hair stylist: Davide Barbieri | Manicurist: Kate Cutler | Digital producer (watch on MOJEH.com): James Moriarty | Photography assistant: Jennifer Balcombe | Styling assistant: Rosie Borgerhoff Mulder | Makeup artist’s assistants: Asuka Fukuda and Mee Kee | Digital operator: Jean-Philippe Woodland | Casting director: Star & Co | Art and film director: Liam S. Gleeson
Compiled by Sophie Pasztor
164 H I G H N OTES
GUCCI
2
1
3
ANIMAL INSTINCT The style chemistry between jewellery and animal is one that is intensifying. A new wave of novelties from designers like Van Cleef & Arpels and Roberto Coin offer an enchanting flurry of small creatures such as butterflies, beetles and dragonflies, to enhance its appeal.
1. VAN CLEEF & ARPELS | 2. ROBERTO COIN | 3. CHOPARD | 4. CINDY CHAO | 5. LYDIA COURTEILLE
4 5
166
NINA RICCI
1 2
3
THINK PINK Femininity is embraced with ladylike jewels in blush shades. De Grisogono revives retro styles with a unique square-faced timepiece, while Cartier evokes romance with delicate blooms and a glamorous scattering of diamonds. 1. DE GRISOGONO | 2. ROBERTO COIN | 3. PIPPA SMALL @netaporter | 4. ZAABEL AT S*UCE ROCKS | 5. VAN CLEEF & ARPELS
4 5
168
T H E EV EN T
INSPIRING INNOVATION The Event: Opening the doors to the illustrious world of haute horology, Dubai Watch Week returns for its third consecutive edition. Dubai Watch Week (DWW) has announced its theme for this year’s event: Classic and Contemporary. The exhibition, which runs from the November 16-20, will welcome 60 leading industry legends and brands under one roof. Audemars Piguet, Bovet 1822 (as featured above), Vacheron Constantin, Parmigiani Fleurier and Piaget are just some of names that will be in attendance. Promising to be even bigger and better than previous years – with more masterclasses, creative hubs and panels added to the agenda – this season, DWW aims to explore the evolution of haute horology through examining the industry’s rich heritage and embracing new innovations. Melika Yazdjerdi, director of Dubai Watch Week and senior marketing and communication delighted to be hosting Dubai Watch Week for its third edition. This is a oneof-kind platform that promotes the sharing of information – everything from the individual stories behind each brand including technical movements, materials, and mechanisms to consumer trends and the future of watchmaking.”
Words by Sophie Pasztor
director explains, “Following on from its phenomenal success last year, we are
Nosheen is photographed by Borna Ahadi in her home wearing a dress by Fendi and her own jewellery
SHAPING THE SEASON Jewellery designer Nosheen Bakhsh, the creative mind behind cultural-led brand Sheen, shares her design aesthetic and styling tips for the season ahead.
Describe the Sheen woman in three words... Elegant, feminine and regal. The trigger... My love for jewellery began in elementary school - I used to
Designer must-haves...
love crafting beaded jewellery to gift to family and friends.
Rings. They are simple and comfortable for everyday wear. Also, anklets are totally underrated! I find them
Styling for the season...
so elegant and dainty; once they are on, they are
Stacking is definitely a trend to watch out for, especially
never coming off.
rings and bangles. In my new Aisha collection there are quite a few rings that come in sets of two, three,
Best for event season...
all the way up to five.
Diamonds would have been the obvious choice, but I prefer pearls. I’ve used them in many pieces, each set
Inspiration for autumn/winter17...
in different ways: hanging, complementing a piece or as
The Aisha collection is driven by the arts, crafts and
the main element of the design. I feel that no matter how
beautiful landscape of Kashmir, which is where my family
they are used, they immediately add a touch of elegance.
Interviewed by Sophie Pasztor
are from. It introduces blue sapphires which the region is well-known for and shapes and patterns that follow their
The importance of giving back...
traditions too. For example, the dome-shaped pieces which
It was through my visits to Kashmir and observing the
are common in the traditions of Indo-Asian countries.
brutality of war and the effects that it has on the region’s inhabitants, which fuelled my desire to support others.
Metal of the moment...
With every collection, Sheen donates a percentage of
Yellow gold. It has become synonymous with a more
its sales proceeds to a selected charity. Previously,
traditional and classic style over the years and even
donations were made to the Syrian crisis through
though it fell out of fashion at one point, we are starting
UNHCR and MSF, but moving forward, the cause will
to see a shift back towards it.
be related to the collection’s inspiration, Revive Kashmir.
170
J E W EL L ERY & WAT C H E S
Words by Annie Darling Van Cleef & Arpel’s Pétale de Papillon clip in yellow and white gold seamlessly transforms from a sunshine-yellow and emerald-stemmed flower into a separate sapphire-studded butterfly. The maison’s Le Secret collection is full of surprises and fragile treasures.
FALL’S FINERIES Sumptuous romanticism provides a grandiose and sensory experience this autumn/winter, with high jewellery and exceptional timepieces taking on an entrancing mood that welcomes royal blues, deep crimsons and plum-ripe shades. The impending drop in temperature sees a light-hearted, albeit dramatic, beauty breathe new life into characterful motifs and traditional hues.
172
For over a century, panther motifs have defined and directed the House of Cartier. What has since become an iconic signature first appeared on one of the maison’s wristwatches in 1914. More recently, the big cat appears on this charismatic Panthère Gardienne timepiece, which features a diamond and onyx-encrusted head that moves to reveal a hidden dial. Taiwanese jewellery artisan Cindy Chao is an exceptional contemporary artist best known for her impossibly delicate, one-of-a-kind butterflies. These autumn leaf-moulded earrings are smothered in dream-catchingly dazzling diamonds and feature a gilded curve that delicately transitions their ebony-silver body into a bronze-kissed wing.
Refined taste and incredible precision are merged with the Lady Compliquée Peacock Emerald. This hand-engraved piece is one of the Swiss watchmaking industry’s best, having been inspired by the maison’s renowned Peacock Egg, the diamond and emerald-set dial boasts mother-of-pearl indicators and a retrograde hand-winding movement.
Wildlife Watch
Dark Nights Since 1998, Chopard has marked each year’s ultra-glamorous Cannes Film Festival with specially crafted high jewellery pieces featuring sparkling coloured stones. Original and exclusive, this dazzling diamond choker’s rich cobalt-hued jewels perfectly capture the cooler months’ darker nights, and is wholly suited for an after-hours soirée.
These bold and exquisitely shaped earrings by La Marquise are encrusted with diamonds that superbly accent flawless and bold blue sapphires, which make the creations nothing short of breathtaking. Known for utilising the finest gemstones, which are merged with whimsical designs and structures, La Marquise’s latest sapphire collection is one to covet.
Baume et Mercier’s Classima was made for men, with a satin-blue dial that boasts a minimalist design and timeless black leather strap. As autumn nights fall darker, and earlier, this sophisticated and comfortable timepiece transitions seamlessly from a daytime wristwatch to an eveningappropriate steel signature – ideal for the more daring woman.
174
The Mademoiselle Privé Décor Aubazine is inspired by the French village’s 12th Century Cistercian abbey where Gabrielle Chanel spent her secluded childhood. Its 37.5mm-sized face replicates the building’s architecture and Romanesque aesthetics, which feature celestial motifs that have long inspired the maison’s high jewellery collection.
White gold and sapphire crystal is presented with hand-guillochage on a grey-blue dial crafted by Patek Philippe. Illuminated by dazzling diamonds that encircle the face, a 24hour rotating disc powered by a mechanical automatic movement made from 239 components displays 24 time zones.
Autumnal Equinox Gold, diamonds and opal make this one-of-a-kind piece by Dior a star cluster-inspired replica of the autumnal night sky. Mulberry and mauve tones are interjected with flashes of forest-green and midnight-blue. The Grand Bal Piece Unique Galaxie Draco is set with baguette-cut diamonds and comes with a patent calfskin strap.
Umba garnets, pink tourmalines, as well as sky-blue and yellow-green sapphires are meticulously assembled to resemble bulging bouquets of prismatic flowers. The Rhapsodie Transatlantique collection by Chaumet includes this set of three brooches, which proudly boast a sophisticated elegance that’s rarely achieved, even in the most exceptional creations.
Fall Foliage The exquisite allure of warm climes and Europe’s florid nature is celebrated by Bulgari with their Tradizione necklace, which is part of the maison’s high jewellery Festa collection. A writhing, magically vibrant wreath is adorned with what resembles ripened grapes in olive-hues, designed using peridots, amethysts and tourmaline jewels.
David Morris’s limited edition watches are, without question, truly mesmerising works of art. Individually crafted and proportioned with the finest diamonds and precision Swiss movements, this forest-green emerald and diamond circular-dialed timepiece is feminine and exquisite, and guaranteed to impress both jewellery and watch connoisseurs alike.
176
Glitz and Glamour
Pink gold is celebrated in a superbly elaborate fashion with Van Cleef & Arpels’ Ruban Secret Saphirs Roses watch. Round diamonds and Barbie-pink sapphires generously adorn this thin and dainty piece, which features an oversized ribbon that adds fluidity and elegance to a couture form that screams romance and allure.
Suzanne Kalan’s Fireworks Baguette Bangle features white diamond baguettes, which are set into 18-karat rose gold using the maison’s bespoke fireworks setting. Supremely comfortable, the bracelet is also available in yellow and white gold, and becomes a standout piece when layered with Kalan’s other bangles and hand shrapnel.
18-karat pink gold lace adorns Piaget’s Altiplano Double Jeu watch. The 38mm dial is set with 12 marquise-shaped diamonds and 52 brilliant-cut diamonds, while the brand’s 430P ultra-thin hand-wound mechanical movement makes this limited-edition, state-of-the-art piece a beautifully graceful high jewellery treasure.
Brilliant-cut diamonds and a snow-set dial complete the Serpenti Incantati wristwatch by Bulgari. The maison’s iconic snake motif is present in an unusually discreet form – rather than forming the rose gold case, the reptile coils around the dial and hand-wound, openworked movement, which results in a smooth and sensual structure that’s elevated with a refined satin strap.
Changing Colours Audemars Piguet’s renowned women’s timepiece, Royal Oak, has been updated to celebrate the model’s 40th anniversary. The Royal Oak Frosted Gold is a superbly feminine contemporary wristwatch that was designed in collaboration with jewellery creative Carolina Bucci, who implemented an ancient Florentine technique to achieve the watch’s mottled finish.
De Grisogono’s superlative high jewellery proudly boasts the most exceptional jewels available, as well as eye-catching designs, which combine vibrancy and creativity with a contemporary vision that nurtures the refined taste of the Middle Eastern woman. A nuance of candy-coloured jewels twinkle in the light, and replicate the ripening hues of autumnal florals.
178
J E W EL L ERY F EAT U R E
L O C A L T A L E N T MOJEH examines the intense inspiration behind the region’s most promising homegrown jewellery talent, and discovers why these creatives are turning heads on the international circuit.
Words by Jennifer Bell
Gold necklaces, GHENEJ
Top to bottom: Pink hair piece, dancer earrings in yellow gold with blue gemstones, string dancer weiqi rings with pink, yellow and blue gemstones, ALEZAN BY SK
A new generation of UAE jewellery designers are
jewellery industry. The DGJG, itself, has played
their exceptional talent, but for the designers
striving to make their mark on the global luxury
a driving role in establishing Dubai’s status as
themselves, they see it as merely a platform for
stage – and, by doing so, establish themselves
the ‘City of Gold’, catering to the Middle East’s
what they hope to achieve: to give the jewellery
as the Middle East’s answer to powerhouses
robust jewellery demand, and it is also among the
world something it’s never seen before.
like Bulgari, Tiffany & Co, Van Cleef & Arpels,
reasons why Emirati designers are recognising
Their aim is to create collections that, in terms
and Cartier. As the nation cements its position
that this is their time to shine.
of quality and diversity, can stand comparison
as the world’s leading trading hub for gold,
They certainly don’t lack ambition, as Muna Al-
with the best, but which – through reflecting
jewellery, gemstones and diamonds, it’s also
Haddad’s horizons demonstrate. UAE-born and
central aspects of Arabic culture – have their
increasingly seeing exceptional homegrown
based, she aims to transform her brand Ghenej
own unique character. They see this as their
design talent emerge, with each up-and-
into a worldwide force to be reckoned with. The
gateway to success, recognition, and respect
coming newcomer determined to ensure their
maison was launched in 2009 and showcases
in the international marketplace.
handmade offerings – whether they are delicate
jewellery that’s influenced by Al-Haddad’s
Many UAE designers also believe that their own
keepsakes, bold and adventurous pieces, or
enduring passion for poetry, Arabic calligraphy,
personalised insight into what the wearers of
timeless accessories – become the next
and painting. Asked about her goals, she doesn’t
their pieces want, and how they would like their
collectable item that fashion editors across the
hesitate to unveil her aspiration to reach high
jewellery to reflect their personality, gives them an
world rave about and people clamour to own.
heights: “I want to become an internationally
advantage in a market that’s always looking for
Home to the Dubai Gold and Jewellery Group
renowned jewellery designer.”
something fresh and exciting. Salama Khalfan’s
(DGJG) – a non-profit trade association that
Al-Haddad, and others, have already made
brand, Alezan – a collection of fine, bespoke, and
represents companies accounting for almost
strides toward securing the visibility they are
individually handmade jewellery – is driven by the
80 per cent of the regional jewellery trade – the
seeking, within their home nation, across the
Middle East’s equestrian heritage, but she feels
UAE is positioning itself at the centre of the global
MENA region, and beyond. It’s testament to
it also chimes with the way the modern woman
180
For all their creative intensity and business focus, they are also a collective – supporting each other...
produced a diverse range of further collections, variously inspired by poetry, the Arabic alphabet, Gulf leaders, equestrianism, and pride in her country, leading to her receiving the Sheikha Shamsa bint Suhail Award for Creative Women in the UAE and gaining a clientele that includes regional royalty. Now, she aims to replicate this at international level. Such lofty ambitions are an indication that young Emiratis are looking beyond conventional career paths and realising that they can make an impact on the world without sacrificing their dreams. In this regard, Azza Al-Qubaisi stands as a trailblazer as the UAE’s first jewellery artist, corporate gift and awards designer. She – like Al-Haddad and Khalfan – originally planned to pursue a more traditional career, and had hopes to further her education in environmental studies. But she believed art was “a calling”, Rose gold circular necklace, GHENEJ
and now the pieces she creates are well known to be thought-provoking perceptions of nature. “I have always had an interest in making things, but initially I didn’t know you
sees herself, no matter where she is in the world.
a local or regional market, but will turn heads
could study to become a jewellery designer
The main inspiration behind Khalfan’s
around the world. Having designed her first
and make it a career,” says Al Qubaisi, who,
collections is her horse, Penelope. As a former
creation in her 20s, Al-Haddad aims to do
after switching paths, formed a jewellery design
showjumper, it seems fitting that Khalfan’s
this by channelling her enduring passion for
workshop ARJMST – an amalgam of her name
brand’s name is the literal French translation
poetry, Arabic calligraphy, and painting into
and those of her siblings – in 2002. But she
for chestnut, the rich colour of her horse’s coat.
her jewellery. “In the Arab world, we have a
admits that the initial response she received
“She is a horse that has a lot of harnessed
very beautiful heritage that includes jewellery
was not entirely encouraging. “People thought
energy,” says the jewellery designer. “She is
which does not exist today,” she says”I want
my work was weird,” she explains. “It was an
forceful and strong. When you ask her to go
to bring back such beauty, ensuring that the
issue of taste, and what people were used to In
for it, she gives 120 per cent. This is the kind of
generations of today will never forget their
the past, it was about a brand, and diamonds,
woman I wanted to design for.” She adds: “I love
culture, and never be denied the beauty that
and wearing copies. People were not seeking
creating things that become part of the woman.
our grandmothers saw.”
to be different. Now people want bespoke
When she moves her head, when she dances,
Proof that her personal vision can translate
pieces – they want to be individual.”
the jewellery also moves and flows with her.”
into wider appeal is evident from the track
Al-Qubaisi
This approach epitomises the extraordinary
record she has already established. Her first
collections, and those of her peers, are gaining
extent of the creativity and imagination that
collection, Turathy, was displayed in Dubai’s
from designers and buyers alike is a sign of an
exists within the emerging Emirati jewellery
Harvey Nichols store in 2009, making it the
emerging homegrown jewellery design culture
design world, with those at the centre feeling
first Emirati jewellery brand to launch in an
in the UAE. “There are lot of young jewellery
their own unique perceptions – and the
international store, with Bloomingdale’s soon
brands in the past few years that have been
ability to turn them into luxury reality – can
following suit. Al-Haddad, who now has a
working really hard in participating in local and
create something that will not just appeal to
private boutique in Dubai’s Wafi Mall, has since
international exhibitions to put their fingerprint
believes
the
attention
her
Top to bottom: 5 way earrings, reining fan ear cuff, chevron bangle with diamonds in yellow gold, ALEZAN BY SK
on the international stage,” she says. “I admire
style,” she says. “We always try to support
Emirati jewellery design talent, that suggests
the hard work of those young designers –
each other as we work to make ourselves
the impact being made by Al-Quays, Al-
some of whom I have got to know really well
known in the global market.”
Haddad, Khalfan, and others like them, can
through local jewellery competitions which I
Meanwhile, Al-Subasi’s Lamest Ida initiative,
build into something bigger.
have established for rising designers.”
which she launched in 2011 in Abu Dhabi,
All three of these women have their individual
That is one of the cornerstones of the way
provides a workplace for talented UAE
influences and sources of inspiration, and their
this new breed of Emirati jewellery designers
designers to hone and advance their skills. She
own unique eye for design. But they are united
go about their work. For all their creative
has also established the NGO project Made in
in their ambition – for their jewellery to be as
intensity and business focus, they are also a
UAE to develop and promote Abu Dhabi’s crafts
familiar a sight on the streets of New York,
collective – supporting each other, putting a
and design world, and the jewellery exhibition
Paris, and London as it is in their home country,
framework in place for others to follow their
space Voice Gallery. Meanwhile, in 2011,
and for their work to galvanise other young
lead, and determined to show young like-
she was named the British Council’s most
Emiratis into realising where their creativity
minded Emiratis that jewellery design can be
successful UAE Young Design Entrepreneur
can take them. It is this 360-degree vision –
a successful and fulfilling career avenue. Al-
in Fashion and Design and Emirates Woman
dedication to making an international mark as
Haddad points to the support she received
of the Year in two categories: community
designers and businesswomen, spearheading
from Khalfan when she was looking to get her
contribution and business achievement.
a burgeoning Emirati industry that has the
brand up and running; now she combines her
“I do believe we need to support one another
potential to gain a high global profile, raising
own work with supporting the emerging talent
and help each other through sharing our
worldwide awareness of their culture through
looking to follow in her footsteps. “Many Emirati
experiences,” she emphasises. And it is this
the medium of jewellery, and acting as role
designers are becoming known internationally,
determination to not only achieve personal
models and mentors – that suggests the world
and I think each of us has our own signature
success, but to create a continuous cycle of
will hear, and wear, a lot more from them.
182
M O J EH WO M A N
BEAUTY SECRETS WITH
NATALIE PORTMAN MOJEH speaks exclusively with Natalie Portman about her collaboration with Rouge Dior, as well as what beauty means to her.
How has the Rouge Dior woman evolved since the last campaign? She is still elegant and glamorous but this time she feels a little more fun and sensual. What makes a woman ‘feminine’ in your eyes? I think it’s all about attitude – a feminine woman is one who is comfortable in her own skin and full of desire for experience. The colour palette of Rouge Liquid is very versatile. Which effect do you personally prefer? It depends on the occasion, but I’m always comfortable in nudes for everyday life. When do you think it’s best to apply a statement shade? I think an event where you are wearing a neutral colour and want a gorgeous pop to accentuate the look. But, truly, what’s special about want to conform to what society deems ‘appropriate’. I think what’s most appropriate is what makes a woman feel her best. To which Dior value are you the most attached? Independence. What do you love most about working with Peter Philips, image What makes a woman beautiful?
and creative director, Dior Makeup?
Beauty always starts on the inside. Someone who is loving, individual,
What I love most is that Peter creates individual looks for his subjects.
and passionate inside shines just as much on the outside.
He is particularly adept at accentuating the individual beauty unique to every woman. Everyone whose makeup he does always looks
What is your beauty philosophy?
like her best and true self even when he’s pushing the envelope
To drink tons of water and get a great night’s sleep. There is truly
with a new look.
nothing better you can do for yourself as a beauty routine than to give yourself rested, hydrated skin.
What is the best beauty tips you learned from Peter Philips? He taught me I could use my greige Dior lipstick as a cream blush
Rouge Dior was created in 1953 as a result of Christian Dior’s
as well. I love getting to use one product two ways.
desire to “dress women’s smiles.” Do you think this vision is veering in a different direction?
Do you have one lipstick colour that makes you feel extra-
Rouge Dior has and always will be about the power of colour, and
confident?
Dior is using new techniques to capture the way women like to
It really depends on your mood and whatever clothing you’re putting
wear colour. I don’t think the vision is veering in a different direction
on so you can make sure they complement each other. If it’s the
but instead taking a more modern approach to reflect different
right circumstance, a bold colour can be a fun way to make the rest
personalities and moods.
of your look pop and make you feel confident.
In this new Rouge Dior campaign, you are a true rock icon. Do
Do you like to experiment with lipstick shades or have you found
you like this style in your everyday life?
a colour palette that you love and stick to?
I’m not sure I would consider my style ‘rock’ in everyday life, but it
I like to experiment from time to time, but also love a classic red like
was fun to dress up for the campaign and bring out a bit of the rebel
the Rouge Dior 999 or pink. I like to apply lip liner and then lipstick
we all have inside of us.
starting at the centre and going outwards.
Photographed by David Bellemere for Parfums Christian Dior, Makeup by Peter Philips, Hair by Bryce Scarlett, Manicure by Nelly Ferreira, Styled by Kate Young
Rouge Dior is that this line represents the woman who doesn’t always
Complexion, Diorskin Forever Perfect Mousse 020, Diorskin Forever Undercover 020, Diorskin Forever & Ever Control Loose Powder 001 | Eyes, All-In-Brow 3D Kit 001, Diorshow Pump ’n’ Volume 090, 5 Couleurs – Magnify 157 | Lips, Rouge Liquid – 999 Rock Matte
184
They said red is the colour of passion, do you feel that way? Red definitely has the essence of passion and romance, while also being elegant. What is your go-to makeup routine? In my everyday life when I’m not on a red carpet, I like to keep it simple. I always start with sunscreen on my face and then wear a bit of Dior Forever foundation or makeup base, and maybe a light colour on my lips with a hint of Diorshow mascara. From your perspective, what kind of beauty do you think young women should aspire to achieve? Makeup can and should be something fun, but it’s important to remain true to who you are. It’s about striking the right balance and bringing out your natural features through the use of makeup. Womanhood is having a very crucial moment right now, regarding the fight for women’s rights. What would be your words in support for women in difficult situations around the world? The most important thing for women right now is to fight for girls’ education. That is the key to all other issues affecting girls and women. Who has inspired you the most? My parents. What have been the guiding principles for you in your life so far? To be good and have fun. My mum always says to me to live in a way you can be honest about. And also, both my parents have such a good time - always laughing and dancing and spending time with friends and engaging in cultural events and traveling. They’ve been good role models in how to enjoy life and be good to others. You were nominated for an Oscar for your role in Jackie this year. Which attributes do you share with Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis? I don’t love to compare myself to characters. But I admire her How do you differentiate being the face of Rouge Dior and Miss
resilience and her devotion to the arts and to helping build
Dior? Do you think you portray different women or do you think
American cultural identity.
both roles are complementary? I think both roles are complementary. Women aren’t necessarily just
You travel a lot for work. Have these travels changed some of
one thing at all times – sometimes we feel like being more feminine
your views?
and romantic, other times bolder and daring. It’s what makes playing
I still love to travel and explore different places throughout the world.
with makeup so fun.
Of course, that opens your eyes to other cultures, which can only serve to make you understand other points of view and experiences.
How do you take care of your lips?
I would love to visit Southeast Asia (Cambodia/Laos/Bhutan/Vietnam)
Papaw balm from Australia is a great product to keep your lips
and South America, which I know too little.
moisturized. The Dior Crème de Rose Smoothing Plumping Lip Balm is also great for keeping lips moisturized and/or Dior Lip
What is your current playlist?
Sugar Scrub for keeping lips exfoliated.
A lot of Bach, Schubert, and James Blake, Chance the Rapper and all my old hip-hop stuff, like A Tribe Called Quest.
Do you remember how old you were when you tried on lipstick for the first time?
What’s your favorite possession?
Probably when I went to the premiere of The Professional.
My wedding ring.
PASS ME THE KIMCHI Fermented foods may be the long-term cure to mood
swings and food intolerances. MOJEH discovers why this age-old tradition is gaining momentum.
a time. Unfortunately with the advancement of food, lack of time and availability of meals that are quick and easy to prepare and eat, this age-old tradition has become lost in transition. “Fermented foods and drinks have shown to improve bowel health, relieve bloating and aid digestion and chronic fatigue, to name a few health-related issues. Furthermore, probiotic/ fermented foods are also known to help those with food intolerances, sensitivities and food allergies,” says Zenia Menon, nutritionist at Dubai Herbal Treatment & Centre. The link between food and overall wellbeing can be attributed to your gut in more ways than you can imagine. “A leaky gut is a result of poor diet choices, toxic overload, chronic stress and bacterial imbalance, and can cause malabsorption of vital nutrients like zinc, iron and vitamin B12,” says Menon. By including fermented foods that contain probiotic cultures, you can treat digestive problems and a leaky gut. Melanie Waxman, Nutritionist and Specialist in Natural Therapies at SHA Wellness Clinic, further confirms that a healthy digestive system reflects on our immune system, energy levels, brain functioning and mood, as does Dr Mahmoud Ghannoum in MOJEH Issue 48’s feature Gut Instinct. Through his lifetime of research, Dr Ghannoum discovered that bacteria and fungi
Words by Nicola Raf, photographed by Enrique Diaz/7cero from Getty
work together to create digestive plaque in The only time you’ll most likely relish kimchi
essential bacteria grows in dairy products
the gut and his findings have been named as
is during a mouthwatering meal in a Korean
and vegetables. The process gives these
a breakthrough in internal health.
restaurant, when a hint of spice is needed to
foods a longer shelf life, after the vegetables
But why the sudden craze? Of late, fermented
elevate your meal. But what you may not know is
are submerged in a salty brine to eradicate
foods have been springing up on menus – and
that it is more than just a piquant ingredient. This
pathogenic bacteria. The good bacteria then
online – with celebrity chefs such as David
fermented cabbage is a nutritional food, hailed
breaks down lactose as well as other sugars
Chang and Jamie Oliver offering rave reviews
for its ability to heal a leaky gut. And it isn’t just
and starches in the food, making it easily
and inspirational recipe ideas. To incorporate
kimchi that’s being touted for its health benefits.
digestible while conserving nutrients. These
these foods into your diet, Barghout suggests
Sauerkraut, kefir and raw coconut yoghurt are
foods exist in the space between both fresh
eating a fermented food at least two to three
equally as nutritive, supporting the immune
and rotten states, and while that may not
times per week, whether they be organic
system while promoting beneficial bacteria
sound appealing – or smell enticing – they are
pickles that are rich in vitamin K, miso (a
cultures. “The best way to regain gut balance
preferred for their distinct flavour, creation of
paste created by fermenting soybean, barley
and create a healthy digestive system is to
enzymes, vitamins, Omega-3 fatty acids and
or brown rice with koji) that has anti-ageing
nurture your body with plenty of good bacteria.
gut-promoting abilities.
properties, vitamin B-rich and cholesterol-
Most people go for probiotic supplements;
While this may seem like a trend-to-try, the
reducing tempeh (a soybean product made
however, they are not as useful as the good
preservation process isn’t a novel approach for
with a mix of live mould), energy-booster
bacteria found in fermented foods,” says Hala
healthy living. Fermentation came into existence
kombucha (a carbonated sweet tea made with
Barghout, dietician and founder of Colour My
over 7,000 years ago (pre-refrigerator and
a mould known as Scoby), or Natto (fermented
Plate (a nutritious meal-plan delivery service).
canning method days) when seasonal produce
soybeans) that contains anti-inflammatory
So what is fermentation? It’s a process whereby
needed to be conserved for many months at
enzymes, as well as raw cheese and yoghurt.
186
TA L K ING P O I NT
THE MILLENNIAL MAKEOVER Statistics show that selfie culture and social media are causing an alarming number
It used to be a topic shrouded in speculation and with plenty
Snapchat stories and is responsible for Kylie Jenner’s infamously
of stigma attached to it, but now thanks to social media Botox
publicised pout. Ourian boasts a 2 million-strong Instagram
has emerged as one of the beauty industry’s biggest and most
following and regularly posts before and after pictures and
publicised buzzwords. No longer reserved for ageing actresses
videos of his patients to his account. Across the country in New
and reality television housewives, a new wave of millennial
York City, Dr Dara Liotta, a board-certified plastic surgeon also
consumers are causing the popularity of non-invasive procedures
shares before and after posts of her signature treatment created
– Botox in particular – to skyrocket.
especially for millennials called the LitLift, which uses Botox and
Botulinum toxin, or Botox as it is most commonly known, is
fillers to mimic the effects of contouring and strobing. And it’s
a neurotoxic protein produced by the bacterium Clostridium
clearly working, in a study by the American Academy of Facial
botulinum, commonly associated with food poisoning. The
Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery released earlier this year, over
toxin has a paralyzing effect and is injected directly into certain
40 per cent of surgeons surveyed reported that looking better in
muscles in diluted amounts causing a controlled relaxation.
selfies on Instagram, Snapchat and Facebook was an incentive
Initially used as a remedy for crossed eyes in 1977, Botox has
for their patients getting surgery. British plastic surgery group
been used to treat a variety of medical conditions over the past
Transform coined the term ‘The Dash Effect’ after reporting an
three decades including chronic migraines, uncontrolled blinking,
overnight 700 per cent increase in enquiries about lip fillers after
chronic muscle pain and excessive sweating. Approved by the
Kylie Jenner admitted to having them on an episode of Keeping
FDA for cosmetic purposes in 2002, the use of Botox has grown
Up With The Kardashians.
exponentially over the past 15 years.
“50 per cent of my patients are in their 20s to 30s,” notes
According to statistics released by the American Society of
McGoldrick. “I think that’s because there is evidence to suggest
Plastic Surgeons 1.2 million Botox injections were administered
that there is a preventative aspect to Botox. If you stop wrinkling
in 2016 and of those 10 per cent were performed on patients
your face because your muscles are inactive, you reduce the
in their 20s and 18 per cent on patients in their 30s, as well
creases you get in your skin,” he explains. “It is also probably
as almost 20,000 administered to patients in their teens. The
the most popular non-surgical treatment worldwide, so we
increase in millennial patients is a growing demographic here in
know that on pure numbers it’s safe. People are usually really
the Middle East too. “I have seen a significant rise in millennial
happy with the results they get.” As well as the preventative
patients over the last few years and I do believe that’s down to
aspect, convenience plays a part, too. “The ease of a standard
plastic surgeons, dermatologists and celebrities talking about
Botox procedure is a draw card for millennials,” states Dr Luiz
Botox on Instagram and social media and an awareness as well
Toledo, a plastic surgeon practicing in Dubai for whom millennials
as a desire to look better in selfies,” remarks Dr Rory McGoldrick,
constitute 30 per cent of his patient list. “It’s done in 10 minutes
a board-certified plastic and reconstructive surgeon based in
and has great results, plus, using Botox in the early stages of
Dubai. “On the whole, more patients are educated these days
ageing will postpone other surgical procedures and maintain a
because of social media. Surgeons are using Instagram to
younger look for a longer period of time.”
demonstrate the capabilities and limitations of certain treatments
At present there aren’t any laws in the UAE that stipulate a
to potential patients. Therefore, an increasing amount of patients
minimum age requirement for Botox. But how young is too
already know what they want when they come in.”
young? “I have patients coming in that are 21 and 22,” confides
Take Dr Simon Ourian, for example. The Beverly Hills-based
McGoldrick, “But I would draw the line at 18, I think to treat
cosmetic dermatologist has featured in Kim Kardashian’s
anyone younger than 18 with Botox is unethical.”
Winter’s Dream, Photographed by Remi Kozdra and Kasia Baczulis, MOJEH Issue 40
of millennials to turn to Botox. MOJEH investigates.
Winter’s Dream, Photographed by Remi Kozdra and Kasia Baczulis, MOJEH Issue 40
188
B E A U TY NOTE
THE BEAUTY LOWDOWN From snail slime and sheep placenta to bee venom and bull semen, the beauty industry has been known to push the boundaries when it comes to ingredients – none more so than the products crafted in Korea. The Korean beauty industry has been responsible for some of the most unusual skincare ingredients including snail mucus, pig collagen and, now, horse oil and donkey milk – we look at these growing phenomenas.
DONKEY MILK According to historians, Egyptian Queen Cleopatra bathed and moisturised with donkey milk every day to soften her skin and prevent wrinkles, and it turns out she was onto something. Picked up as an ingredient by the K-beauty industry, donkey milk contains four times the amount of vitamin C as cow’s milk as well as vitamins A, D, E, B1, B2 and B6, casein and omega 3 and 6. Proven to help with skin conditions such as eczema, acne and psoriasis, it has a soothing and calming effect on skin. Available in soaps, sheet masks, cleansers and moisturising creams, donkey milk products are best suited to dehydrated complexions and sensitive skin. Left to right: Donkey Milk Skin Gel Mask, SOO AE | Auto Pilot Hydrating Milk Cleanser, NAPOLEON PERDIS
HORSE OIL Derived from horse fat and containing high amounts of oleic acid and alpha-linolenic acid – a fatty acid that helps to prevent ageing and protect skin cells from the damage of free radicals – horse oil is a byproduct of the production of horse meat, which is eaten in many countries across Asia and Europe. Ancient Eastern medicine has used horse oil in products as a treatment for scars, cuts and burns for centuries due to the anti-inflammatory properties and reparative qualities of linolenic acid. Easily absorbed by the human dermis, it is being used in hydrating masks, shampoos, creams, soaps and body washes. Left to right: Horse Oil Hydrogel Gold Mask, GUÉRISSON | Horse Oil Body Soap, KUMANO YUSHI
THE NONSURGICAL NOSE JOB MOJEH explores this growing phenomenon within the world of beauty that means painful surgery and lengthy recovery time is a thing of the past.
“A lot of people are afraid of surgery you know. So when they hear they can do something non-invasive they obviously want to come and try it,” explains Dubai-based dermatologist Dr Hala Fadli. “That’s why this is a good option for them.” She’s referring to the non-surgical nose job – a non-invasive procedure that doesn’t require anesthesia designed to correct and improve the overall appearance of the nose using fillers, that has been gaining popularity worldwide. Intended for people who have minor defects with the shape of their nose such as bumps, unevenness and shallow or low bridges, the procedure, which takes 10-15 minutes to complete, sees the practitioner use Botox or injectable fillers to add volume and smooth out imperfections of the nose. Where exactly the filler is injected is determined on a case-by-case basis, with some of the most common areas being on the nose bridge, below or above a bump and on the tip or sides of the nose. Recovery time is minimal and the results last from nine to 12 months. “After the injection patients may experience a little bit of redness and swelling, which is normal and will subside after a couple of hours,” notes Dr. Fadli. “It’s not painful – it’s just a tiny prick of a needle. My patients leave and can go back to work immediately.” Like any procedure, there are risks involved – including blindness as a result of the filler being accidentally injected into the retinal artery, which controls blood flow to the eye. Compressed blood flow to the skin over the nose is another complication that can arise when filler is injected into the tip, however both are extremely unlikely. Unfortunately the procedure isn’t a solution for everyone. “We can correct the results of bad nose jobs for patients with fillers and we can elevate the tip and fix bumps,” explains British plastic surgeon Dr Rory McGoldrick. “But, there is a limit to what you can do. For example, you can’t narrow the tip of the nose and for a comprehensive change it’s still the traditional rhinoplasty.” “Since starting my clinic in 2011, the number of patients I see for this procedure has risen steadily,” divulges Dr Fadli, “I would say it’s an even split of both men and women in their 20s and 30s that are having it done. The good thing about the procedure is that it isn’t permanent. This allows you to see if you’re happy with the results – which most people are – but if you’re not, we use a substance called hyaluronidase that will dissolve the fillers,” she continues. With a wide array of clinics in Dubai now performing the procedure, it’s important to do your homework and look for a reputable doctor with plenty of experience.
190
B E A U TY IN F O C U S
Soft shades of rose punctuate eyes and lips for a youthful romance that is beautifully offset by accompanying warm tones of chocolate. Trial colour in unlikely places such as a graphic liner over the eyes for a modern update. Don’t be afraid to experiment with floral hair accessories that heighten glamour and draw out blush tones.
1
1. Enchanted Island Salt Spray, RAHUA | 2. Les 4 Ombres Multi-Effect Quadra Eyeshadow, CHANEL | 3. Dior Addict Lip Tattoo Long-Wear Colored Tint, DIOR | 4. Shimmer Bloc in Peach Mosaic, LAURA MERCIER | 5. Beach Stick Las Salinas Lip To Cheek Dewy Colour Pop, CHARLOTTE TILBURY | 6. Tuscan Soul, SALVATORE FERRAGAMO
2
DARE TO BLUSH
CHALAYAN
4
6 5
3
Transition your bronzed summer beauty looks into the cooler months by redirecting pigment from the cheeks to the eyes. Your complexion should remain flawless and dewy with a very subtle dusting of colour to the cheeks. Nourishing oils restore hydration to your skin and hair, allowing for a healthy shine. 2 1. Palette Essentielle in 150 Beige Clair, CHANEL | 2. Medi Heel Rejuvenating Gold Spritz, ELIM | 3. Heatwave, PRADA | 4. Sunrise Highlighter Crayon, LAURA MERCIER | 5. Airbrush Flawless Finish in Fair, CHARLOTTE TILBURY | 6. Diorshow Bold Brow, DIOR
1
SUNSET HUES
J. JS LEE
5
3 4
6
192
M O J EH H EA LTH
RUNNING THROUGH THE AGES More women than ever before are continuing to run as they age, could it be more beneficial for our health than previously thought? MOJEH investigates.
Words by Annie Darling
For almost a decade, more women runners have
muscles.” That doesn’t mean, however, that
he tells MOJEH. “You have to remember that
been crossing the finish line than men, according
women in their 30s, 40s and 50s should stop
running is very much a skill that needs to be
to research conducted by Jens Jakob Andersen,
altogether. “Combining running with lower impact
learned and practised.” As we age, form becomes
a former competitive runner and statistician from
exercises such as swimming can help reduce
more important. “Focus more on technique rather
Copenhagen Business School, Denmark. His
pressure on the joints,” advises Olivier and,
than speed and explosiveness.” It’s also important
study, which looked at nearly two million results
despite her concerns, a 2013 study published
to adjust your training – and expectations – to
from a total of 131 marathons from around the
in the journal Medicine & Science in Sports &
the realities of ageing. “I don’t think you need
world, reports that female race participation has
Exercise found that runners were half as likely as
to slow down,” he explains. “What I do believe
skyrocketed by 27 per cent, compared to 8 per
walkers to develop osteoarthritis [a degenerative
is that you need to be more mindful of your
cent for men, and it seems that they’re not only
joint disease] or need a hip replacement.
body with reference to your lifestyle, especially
running more; they’re running better – women
Modern science and cardiovascular research
healthy nutrition, as well as rest and recovery.”
are nearly 19 per cent more likely than their male
has long argued that a regular treadmill session
For those who aren’t yet seasoned cross-country
counterparts to complete a race with a controlled
increases a person’s life expectancy, with the
joggers, a notable study published in Archives
and consistent pace.
Journal of the American College of Cardiology
of Internal Medicine suggests that taking up
Despite this, on average, women only make
publishing that, on average, runners live three
running in your 30s and 40s, even if you haven’t
up 30 per cent of marathoners worldwide, and
years longer than non-runners. Lee Harris
previously bothered with exercise, reshapes the
although most scientists don’t argue that too
is a Dubai-based fitness coach and sports
landscape of ageing. “It’s never too late to start
much exercise increases the likelihood of poor
ambassador for activewear brand, The North
a new activity,” says Olivier; in fact, it seems
health or permanent injury, many of us continue
Face. “When done right, with the right intensities
that midlife is the ideal time to take up running.
to believe the age-old myth that running as you
and consistency, as with any cardiovascular
At the 2014 Twin Cities Marathon, 59-year-old
get older will cause arthritis, cartilage breakdown,
exercise, it [running] will naturally help slow down
Californian Christine Kennedy ran an age-defying
and premature ageing – think sinking eyelids,
the ageing process by increasing cardiovascular
2:59:39 – a time many runners half her age can
crows’ feet and sagging jowls, all of which are
fitness and reducing stress and anxiety.”
only dream of. And while elite runners peak at the
often associated with mature female athletes.
Runners of any age aren’t injured because
age of 25, according to the Institute of Biomedical
“[Running] can be hard on some people’s knee
of exercise, says Harris, but because of their
Research and Sport Epidemiology, the rest of us
joints,” contends Laura Olivier, general manager
technique. “Running does produce a lot of impact
don’t peak until we’re 50, despite the fact that
at fitness boutique, DEFINE Dubai, “and too
stress on the body, which can have a detrimental
once we turn 35 our muscle mass and bone
much running can lead to inflammation in the
effect as we get older if continually done wrong,”
density decreases by 0.7 per cent each year.
The Drop, photographed by Greg Adamski, MOJEH Issue 35
RUNNING RULES KNOW YOUR LIMITS Don’t increase your weekly training mileage by more than 10 per cent per week. Joe Henderson, the first editor of Runner’s World, and Dr Joan Ullyot, an author who has published three women’s running books, first advocated the 10 per cent recommendation after noticing runners who increased their training load too quickly were incurring injuries. THE RIGHT SHOES Before the Eighties, manufacturers didn’t make women’s running shoes and, instead, sold smaller versions of men’s trainers. Finding the right style is imperative – your heel and instep should feel supported but not tight. Check out Under Armour’s UA SpeedForm Gemini 3 for lightweight comfort, or Nike’s Free TR Flyknit Sneakers for natural movement. STRENGTH AND ENDURANCE Strength training is often excluded from many runners’ routine workouts, but it’s the backbone of agility and endurance, and will dramatically decrease the risk of injury. Head to The Gym “Believing that you’re still in your 30s, 40s and
Anyone taking a skill or discipline on board has
in Business Bay’s state-of-the-art Vision Tower
50s when you’re not is the biggest danger,” says
to ‘walk before you run’, and this is no different.”
for variety or, if you prefer to train alone, try out
Omar Al Duri, fitness trainer and ambassador
Honesty and acceptance increases the chances
some floor exercises and hill workouts that
for Sun & Sand Sports. “Our bodies develop
that a mature woman will either begin or continue
improve your core stability.
with age and we have to adapt to that. Muscle
to enjoy running. “Some love to run, and some
memory is on our side, and as long as we are
prefer to sprint or do intervals, which requires
STAY INSPIRED
looking after our engine then the body should
short but more explosive movements. Music
Tracking statistics like time, pace, distance and
drive smoothly.” Accumulated ‘wear and tear’
may play a big part when running long distances
elevation will give new runners a hefty dose of
makes older runners less flexible, and recovering
or finding your rhythm and pace.” Whatever
self-confidence and inspiration. Phone apps like
from hard workouts takes longer, but the key
the person’s approach or preference, scientific
RunGo are ideal for adventurous runners who
to success lies in each workout’s individualised
research continues to refresh the idea that
travel frequently and like to explore new cities.
pace, says Al Duri. “I would recommend following
running has very real and genuine benefits for
RunGo provides real-time voice navigation and
a training programme where you track your
the older woman, and evidence suggests that
suggests the best routes near your area, and
progress, especially if you have never ran before.
they’re more than happy to enter the ballot.
allows you to save maps offline.
194
M O J EH H EA LTH
A HIGHER STATE Cluttered with notions that span from mundane to morbid, for some, time spent alone with their thoughts is the ultimate punishment. Transforming creativity, confidence and physical health, MOJEH considers the payback of a tutored mind.
Words by Laura Beaney
My mind is the equivalent of a hoarder’s purse, brimming with
the human race would be extinct. There needs to be a balance
ATM receipts, cinema ticket stubs, calling cards from taxi
between the two, but a study by Moshe Bar, a neuroscientist
drivers in countries I rarely visit and even the odd crumpled
and director of the Multidisciplinary Brain Research Center at
tissue. At any one time there’s myriad information spiralling
Bar-Ilan University suggests that our internal exploration, which
around. Thoughts dart between the mundane and ever-present
can yield innovation, creativity and fulfilling new experiences, is
wanderings of a typical mind like memorising grocery lists
diminished by an overly occupied (or messy) mind.
and pondering whether 6pm is too late to drink coffee, then
Long stints alone with our thoughts can be torture – just
there’s the more pensive notions – the habitual suppliers of
ask anyone who has trouble sleeping. Insomniacs toss and
mental load like: ‘Is that pain in my head normal?’ Or ‘How’s
turn desperately trying to quiet restless thoughts. Indeed we
the situation in Syria?’ While these pressing thought patterns
often credit our ugliest emotions with lack of sleep – stress,
tend to manifest as anxiety, stress, and depression, both ways
anxiety, guilt and fear – and at night there’s nowhere to hide
of thinking consume considerable mental capacity, stunting
from negative notions. Daylight offers temporary respite – its
our creativity and limiting our ability to experience pleasure. It
monotonous tasks, continuous flow of interactions and social
sounds cheesy but while we spend our minutes bemused by
feeds fill the hours – but destructive thoughts can re-emerge
brain fog, we are too occupied to absorb what’s in front of us
when the external simulation goes away. “If we’re constantly
and become a bystander in our own life.
filling our awareness with social media and information, we can
To further understand this mess in our minds our brains operate
lose touch with how we’re actually feeling in the moment,” says
in a state of tension between exploration and exploitation. In
Dr Tara Well, a professor of psychology at Columbia University
exploratory mode, we consider things with a wide lens; we’re
who is currently conducting laboratory studies on how mirror
inquisitive and thirsty for knowledge. But when we’re in an
meditation – the practice of looking at oneself in the mirror for
exploitative state we look to what we already know, falling back
10 minutes a day, with no goal other than to be present with
on old information to provide the comfort of an unsurprising result
yourself – reduces stress and increases self-compassion. “Our
or setting. We tend to be more exploratory when on holiday,
attention gets hijacked by our devices and that can often be
finding our feet in a new country, whereas times of exploitation
a welcome escape from feeling lonely in the moment – but it
often come when under physical or emotional duress, like
perpetuates the problem because it becomes even more difficult
returning home and tackling dinner and chores after the long-
to be with ourselves without seeking distraction,” she continues.
haul flight. Both pathways are fundamental to progression.
From emersion in mundane tasks to more extreme actions,
Without exploration, the world would have remained flat; but
some are prepared to go to great lengths to escape alone time
without exploitation, we would have taken too many risks and
with their mind. In a 2014 study carried out by psychologists
Fierce, Fresh and Freethinking, photographed by Anthony Arquier, MOJEH Issue 43
196
at Harvard and the University of Virginia, 42 college students
and meditation help us slow down and land in the present
were left to sit alone in a bare, undecorated room, thinking freely
moment,” says Wells. “Making time on a regular basis to do
for up to 15 minutes. The feedback afterwards was that most
your practice can build emotional resilience and help manage
found it difficult to concentrate and around half confirmed that
stress because it makes it easier to come back to yourself and
they didn’t enjoy the experience. Taking the experiment a step
be aware of how you’re feeling in the moment.” And while the
further, a new study found that being left alone in an empty
studies say we prefer to do rather than to think, even if what
room was so unpleasant that many elected to give themselves
we are doing is so unpleasant we’d normally pay to avoid it,
electric shocks. The participants were first asked to rank the
by simply being alone and looking at yourself, you gain greater
unpleasantness of a shock and say whether they would pay
self-awareness, grow to feel more comfortable in your own skin
a small fee to avoid having to experience it again. They were
and eventually, quiet the restless mind.
then left alone again for 15 minutes and given the opportunity to shock themselves at will. Summarising their findings in a report for Science journal, researchers wrote: “What is striking is that simply being alone with their own thoughts for 15 minutes
MINDFUL MODES
was apparently so aversive it drove many participants to selfadminister an electric shock that they had earlier said they would
THE APP. HEADSPACE
pay to avoid.” After all, when we seek to break a prisoner’s
Headspace founder, Andy Puddicombe cut his degree short
deviant spirit, we send them to solitary confinement – our
to immerse himself in meditation. He spent over 10 years in
harshest level of human discipline.
training travelling across the world and was eventually ordained
For years, medical professionals and wellness practitioners
in the Indian Himalayas. An excellent entry into daily practice, the
alike have considered a positive mindset to be the absence of
techniques used within the Headspace app have been refined and
a negative one, but stating that humans are unable to enjoy our
developed over many centuries. Their aim is to cultivate awareness
own thoughts suggests that our mental flora should be eternally
and compassion through short daily mental exercises so we
blooming. “Mindfulness is about observing thoughts and feelings
can better understand both the mind and the world around us.
without judgment or criticism,” writes Headspace founder, Andy Puddicombe on his blog. “Instead, simply acknowledge the
THE RETREAT. BALI SILENT RETREAT, MOUNT BATUKARU
feeling, recognise it is part of being human and understand
The aim at Bali Silent Retreat is to maintain eco-green-off-
that all human beings experience something similar – even if
grid standards while supporting a personal, spiritual journey.
it sometimes feels we are the only one.” Indeed, our negative
The lush Bali space includes hot springs and is Wi-Fi-free,
thoughts serve a purpose just as physical pain warns us of an
and chat-free supporting internal contemplation. Stays range
injury that needs to be addressed; it’s more about cultivating
from three days to one-week and there’s no set daily schedule
healthy thought flow and channelling mental clutter. “We tend
meaning visitors can spend their time in silent meditation
to view loneliness as an enemy or some sort of punishment,”
while roaming the rice fields, practicing yoga, or partaking
says Wells. “Time alone can help you feel more comfortable
in New Earth Cooking classes that involve preparing healthy
in your own skin and you can make your own choices without
dishes with ingredients from the retreat’s medicine garden
outside influences. It can help you develop more insight into who
– it’s about silencing the mind but on your own terms.
you are as a person,” she continues. “Research finds that the ability to tolerate being alone is linked to increased happiness,
THE BOOK. A PATH WITH HEART BY JACK KORNFIELD
better life satisfaction, and improved stress management. And
Credited with introducing the practices of mindfulness and
people who say they enjoy their alone time are less likely to
meditation to the West, Jack Kornfield’s A Path With Heart, is
experience depression.”
regarded by many as the most important book yet written on
While anger and negative thoughts are natural without due
meditation. Having developed his practice in Thailand, India, and
attention, our ever-wandering mind can become a tax on our
Myanmar, Kornfield has been teaching meditation internationally
quality of life. It’s important to realise when the proverbial purse
since 1974 and his book is rife with the wisdom and methods
is brimming with excess receipts and have the resources to
he accumulated on the way. Ideal for those seeking detailed
address it. Meditation is one avenue that facilitates this state,
direction, Kornfield systematically walks the reader through
providing the means to be able to quiet the mind at will. “Yoga
some of the notable challenges that arise during meditation.
Photographed by Julia Chernih at The Factory ME, styled by Sophie Pasztor
Our obsession with green juices and the all-important superfoods has spilt over into the realms of skincare. The recent crop of good-for-you-ingredients such as kale and orange, have picked up steam with brands like Éminence and Kiehl’s. The vitamin-rich foods contain formulas that promise to boost skin’s hydration and fight off free radicals. Clockwise from top left: Cilantro & Orange Extract Pollutant Defending Mask, KIEHL’S | Ginger Flight Therapy, AESOP | Citrus & Kale Potent C+E Masque, ÉMINENCE
198
M O J EH H EA LTH
ABSTINENCE AND ABUNDANCE A culturally rich ideology that’s once again gaining momentum as an avenue for weight loss, mental clarity, and overall wellness, MOJEH asks whether fasting should become an integral element of our existence.
Winter’s Palace, photographed by Amber Gray, MOJEH Issue 23
The minds that populate the Silicone Valley are said to be some of the greatest on the planet,
Word on the street is that Silicon Valley workers regularly practice fasts.
so if there’s a lifestyle trend that’s raging among them it comes with a tad more credibility than those found flourishing between the neighbouring Orange County housewives. Their current approach to eating is gimmick-free, carries deeprooted foundations spanning religion, culture, and scientific research and is actually nothing new. Word on the street is that Silicon Valley workers regularly practice fasts that last between 36 and 60 hours once a week, observing that this adjustment results in greater mental clarity, increased productivity, and ultimately, healthy weight loss. But how exactly does dietary abstinence better our body and mind? Scientific research in this field dates back to the 1930s when scientists in the USA and Russia began to explore the benefits of fasting on the body and brain. The first experiments showed that mice put on calorie restricted diets lived significantly longer than their counterparts who ate as normal. Historically, fasting has also been an integral part of our lifestyle; our ancestors (the hunter-gatherers) went through times of feast and famine, often forced to spend days at a time without food awaiting the next big kill. Today we’re a much more sedentary species, taking the lift rather than the stairs and seldom looking up from our screens, yet we still consume a considerable amount of food resulting in energy that might go unused and can manifest itself as obesity and other metabolic disorders. “Fasting can be compared to surgery without a knife,” explains Dr Harold Strossier, a practitioner at Viva Mayr Maria Worth, a revered clinic that prescribes medically supervised fasting as a treatment for a spectrum of ailments, from diabetes to cancer. “The latest research into physiology shows that fasting has a positive influence on lifespan, and on health in general, it reduces the risk of cancer, most of our civilian and rheumatic diseases, and of course it influences our weight and helps to protect against obesity. Fasting not only lets us
200 reset the body and remove physical waste but it also has the potential to clear the mind and have an emotionally cleansing process,” he continues. Indeed our bodies are designed to fast, they do it every night. During times of fasting the body gets rid of old, broken-down cells and creates new ones, but if you’re snacking regularly this simply doesn’t happen. Intermittent fasting has also been shown to boost levels of BDNF (brain-derived neurotrophic factor), which plays a critical part in protecting you from dementia and depression. One of the modern pioneers in the link between mental health and fasting is Professor Mark Mattson, head of neuroscience at the National Institute on Aging in the USA. He has shown that when you put mice on a 5:2 diet they grow new brain cells, particularly in the areas of the brain associated with memory. He is currently doing human studies, looking at whether 5:2 intermittent fasting can protect people at risk of dementia. Another important benefit, Fasting is said to be Silicon Valley’s health craze du jour with its inhabitants saying the practice contributes to their focus and productivity, so naturally an app soon followed. Drily named for the amount of food consumed during a fast, Zero is a tracker that helps users sync their fast with their biological clock. The app takes the user’s location and calculates sunset as well as ticking down the hours until the fast begins.
which has been proven in many trials, is that it improves insulin sensitivity, which is a measure of how well your body is able to deal with excess sugar in the blood. “If you are insulin insensitive that means your pancreas is having to produce ever larger amounts of insulin to bring your blood sugar levels back to normal,” says Dr Michael Mosley, author of The Fast Diet and The 8 Week Blood Sugar diet. “Eventually your pancreas packs in and you become a type 2 diabetic.” On top of that Mosley notes that calorie restriction and intermittent fasting are the only things that have consistently been shown to delay the ageing process. “Intermittent fasting not only means your body gets the chance or repair and replace old cells, it also revs up your body to protect itself against molecular damage.” Looking at fasting through the lens of faith, we can see that all major religions from Catholicism prescribed cutting back on food as a means to clear the mind, enhancing enlightenment and tightening the relationship between the individual and their spirituality. This being said, we all know what it’s like to walk into a meeting, stomach growling having skipped breakfast. For the average person juggling office interactions, exercise and social commitments, while integrating fasting into their daily routine can seem like a completely alien prospect, so what’s the best way to begin?
Looking to fasting as a method of weight loss, the 5:2 diet, also known as intermittent fasting, is a favourite among models and Hollywood elite. It entails following five days of regular eating patterns followed by two days of severe calorie restriction (cutting down to around 500 calories). It’s a simple solution for foodies who don’t wish to negate their favourite dishes and it’s one of the few forms of intermittent fasting that has been properly tested in clinical trials.
Fasting comes in many formats ranging from going without food for weeks on end to cutting your calories a couple of days a week or not eating during daylight hours. “The main disadvantages with going on a long fast are two fold. First, it is hard (I’ve done it!) and it’s safest done in a supervised setting as there are risks,” warns Mosley. “Secondly, your body does not store
Words by Laura Beaney. Images courtesy of Dr. Michael Mosley and Buchinger Wilhelmi Clinic
to Islam, like the Silicon Valley workers, have
Practicing medically guided fasting in striking natural surroundings for the last 60 years, Buchinger Wilhelmi is a clinic for therapeutic fasting and integrative medicine facilitating guests with a tight web of medical doctors, nurses, therapists, personal trainers and many other professionals. Their medically equipped facilities attract guests seeking treatment for metabolic diseases like type 2 diabetes and hypertension as well as chronic inflammatory diseases like arthritis.
protein and we need protein to build things like our
with, and it’s not suitable for everyone. “I would
white cells, that defend our bodies from infection.
not recommend it for pregnant women, people
If you go without any protein for more than a
who are underweight or anyone who has a history
day or so then your body will start to scavenge
of emotional issues with eating,” warns Mosley.
protein from your muscle.” For those looking to
It’s also important that you drink at least seven-
fast unsupervised, Mosley advises intermittent
to-eight glasses of water each day during a fast,
fasting, in the vain of the famed 5:2 diet where,
as you lose a lot of water when you burn fat and
for two days a week calories are cut down to 800
may incur headaches. From faith to tech workers
and a healthy diet is maintained on the remaining
and those in the field of medical science, one
five. Another way to dip one’s toe into intermittent
recurrent theme drawn from the feedback is that
fasting is what Strossier describes as ‘dinner
our approach to food in the Western world is
cancelling’ the process of simply skipping dinner
excessive and has the potential for a manifold
each day. “We know this is scientifically proven,
of negative effects. Whether looking to fasting
dinner cancelling expands the lifespan,” he says.
as an avenue for mental clarity or considering
As with any change to lifestyle and diet, intermittent
it for overall health, it’s critical that we evaluate
fasting can be quite challenging, at least to start
closely how much food our bodies actually need.
202
TA L K ING P O I NT
WHAT MEN WANT In light of recent research, MOJEH asks why multibillion-dollar beauty companies lack powerful women business leaders.
Words by Annie Darling
It goes without saying that there are lots of
absent from this much-needed conversation.
Clinique La Prairie has just revealed its latest
luxury companies for the modern beauty
Dawn Watt is global PR manager for FOREO,
innovative product, Skin Caviar Absolute Filler,
enthusiast to treat themselves to – many of
a cosmetics company that specialises in
which returns lost density while simultaneously
which the MOJEH woman has already had the
technically advanced beauty products that firm
reshaping and redefining the contours of the
opportunity to test and try. Quite apart from
and nourish skin. During a thought-provoking
face. Its success, says Gibertoni, along with
providing an excellent (and sometimes much-
discussion with MOJEH, Watt explains why, in
the brand’s exceptional reputation, is based
needed) source of quick fixes, beauty counters
an industry that’s principally aimed at female
on “the famous mantra of being ‘global and
are also a great place to hunt down the latest in
consumers, men occupy the vast majority
local’ in the same moment”, which cannot be
grace, glamour, and youthfulness. What many
of management positions. “A lot of CEOs at
done, she adds, without diversity. For Watt, it’s
of us don’t know, however, are the details
beauty companies are poached from existing
important to note that the beauty industry fares
about who spearheads these highly coveted
successful businesses beyond this industry,
better in comparison to other sectors such as
lipsticks, luminisers, foundations and primers.
and have proven track records in, for example,
health, banking and energy and further contests
Behind-the-scenes, products found stacked on
tech companies or publishing,” she explains.
that male leaders can be extremely beneficial
shelves in-store are concocted and constructed
“They all come from that same pool of high-
to a beauty company’s success. “A male CEO
with enthusiasm and dedication, and in recent
earning, high-powered executives, and they’re
in a beauty company isn’t inherently negative,
months, the multibillion-dollar beauty industry,
very attractive to shareholders.”
but it [beauty] is a strangely lopsided industry
which sells primarily to women, has made
Be that as it may, it’s been proven that
in that respect,” she says. “The problem, if it
headlines for being driven predominantly by men.
increasing the number of women in leadership
is a problem, is not endemic to the beauty
Various industries have come under scrutiny
positions improves a company’s bottom line.
industry, but represents a much broader gender
over their lack of gender representation in
A study by Harvard Business Review suggests
bias in business generally.” And while there are
upper management. Although significant
that boosting females in upper management
“promising signs of progress”, she acknowledges
progress has been made, with 40 per cent
from zero to 30 per cent is associated with
that “we can see that the wider industry is
of today’s global workforce female, only 5 per
a 15 per cent increase in profitability. Simone
currently still far from egalitarian at the top.”
cent of chief executive officer [CEO] positions
Gibertoni, CEO of Clinique La Prairie, one
Gibertoni expresses her admiration for female
are held by women, according to analysis by
of the world’s most iconic Swiss brands,
role models, and stresses their importance
CNNMoney. The technology sector, in particular,
tells MOJEH that change that’ll increase the
in empowering the next generation of beauty
has found itself in the hot seat earlier this year
number of women leaders is “inevitable”. “Far-
business owners and consumers. “I have been
after salary database Comparably released
sighted management in a global sector where
lucky,” she says warmly, “in both my experience
a study highlighting the industry’s pay gap,
there are so many regional differences and
in consulting and later in the world of beauty.
revealing that women under the age of 25
specificities must be able to put together a
I have worked with a lot of women, many of
earn on average 29 per cent less than men
heterogeneous team that brings innovation
whom are in positions of great responsibility.”
the same age. Interestingly, up until now
and uniqueness, and at the same time is able
Watt agrees that mentors are essential to
leading beauty companies have been largely
to respond to different local needs.”
increasing the number of women holding
Blonde Ambition, photographed by Nicolas Valois, MOJEH Issue 20
powerful positions. “[Current statistics] boil
being made.” Coty, for example, which owns
by men. “[It’s important] to encourage men
down to the limitations on women in business
several influential brands such as Covergirl,
currently occupying those positions to take
education, and to hiring processes,” she
Sally Hansen, OPI and Philosophy, had no
a more positive attitude towards diversity,”
explains. “Women should be encouraged to
women on its board until earlier this year, having
insists Watt. “Speaking very frankly, it
get into business education courses, and the
previously employed an all-male executive team.
would be very useful to see some of those
industry should make business ownership more
“It [diversity] is absolutely key to our [beauty
influential men using their influence to make
attractive to women by forcing a change in
industry’s] success: that blend of backgrounds,
the changes we want to see.” While it’s no
conventional attitudes.”
viewpoints, experience and intuition is incredibly
secret that we have yet to achieve equal gender
A new wave of women-led start-ups including
valuable,” says Watt. “That can’t be taught – it
representation in the business world, there’s
Birchbox, Glossier and Ipsy are doing just that.
can only be the result of diversity.”
little doubt that lasting change is taking place,
“When it comes to empowering women to be
Demonstrating fairness, however, requires
which will better meet the needs of today’s
business owners, we [FOREO] are entirely
support from those who already hold
modern women. After all, the more we (as
supportive,” smiles Watt. “It’s an exciting time,
upper management positions – and, as
beauty enthusiasts) are able to help direct and
because changes are real, and progress is
aforementioned, these tend to be occupied
develop products that empower us, the better.
204
M O J EH W O M A N
You launched the base first, why is this such a priority for you and what did you do differently to existing makeup brands when formulating your tones? One of the things that I felt was really important to start with was foundation. Foundation is one of those areas in the beauty industry that has a big void for women at extreme ends of the shade spectrum. There’s this middle ground that’s covered really, really well. But then if you’re very pale or if you’re very dark, there aren’t a lot of options. And so, I wanted to make sure that women of all skin tones were covered so they could be included in what I created. We worked really long and hard on the texture of each formula. It was really important to me that each product is made to easily build and layer with lightweight textures that are flexible even when you want to re-apply.
FIVE FENTY BEAUTY INSIGHTS FROM RIHANNA
How will future launches reflect your signature style?
seasoned pro when it comes to an elevated beauty
How will the range work for the diverse aesthetics
regime, MOJEH catches up with Rihanna as her
highly anticipated Fenty Beauty brand hits the shelves, discovering more about its universal allure.
bold lip colours? From here on out, it’s only about having fun. We could do so many things here. There are endless options when it comes to makeup. As a musician, why the jump into the beauty industry and what’s so appealing to you about makeup? My lifelong obsession with makeup started with watching my mom put her makeup on. I always loved to watch her, and all the funny faces she was making in the mirror. I never understood it until I got older and fell in love with makeup myself and really started becoming obsessed. I love that makeup has so many colours, so many options, so many ways to create looks, so many moods that you can express through different products. I think makeup is one of the most fun ways to express yourself. Describe your go-to makeup routine. The Fenty Face was created for women of all skin tones, of all personalities. I wanted to share a look that every woman feels they can wear every day, and at any occasion, and at any age. It’s been my go-to method for years: the foundation, the concealer, the contour, the highlight, the mattifying powder— and then, go! These steps are key to starting your makeup, no matter the look you’re going for.
of Middle Eastern women? Fenty Beauty was created for everyone: For women of all shades, personalities, attitudes, cultures, and races. I wanted everyone to feel included. That’s the real reason I made this line.
Images courtesy of Fenty Beauty
A name synonymous with stylistic integrity and a
For example, can we expect to see your signature
206
M O J EH NEW S
Culture Coming From the app launch set to shake up the art world to the Middle Eastern culinary icon making its mark in London, and Yayoi Kusama: Infinity Mirrors, the hottest exhibit ticket to hit the West Coast, here MOJEH consolidates October’s cultural highpoints.
ArteVue Launches With Inaugural Art Prize ArteVue, is a first-of-its-kind app designed to upheave the status quo and unite the art world in an instant on a single platform. For curators and gallerists, it’s the ultimate platform for finding the next big thing, and for collectors, the stage on which new work by artists from across the world can be acquired. The app offers art enthusiasts the opportunity to curate their own galleries, finding and pinning works; it also allows artists to upload their portfolios and create professional catalogues. ArteVue includes buy and sell options and enables curators and gallerists to contact artists directly. With the winner set to be announced November 20, ArtePrize 2017 is a non-profit competition running in parallel to the app launch affording young artists the chance to win a cash prize of AED 55,095 and an all expenses paid, artist residency at the Delfina Foundation in London. ArteVue available on iPhone and iPad
Bahrain’s Villa Mama’s opens in London, September 25 An icon in the Bahrain food scene, Villa Mama’s is known across the GCC for its exquisite take on home-cooked, local cuisine. Now, the restaurant has a second location having recently opened its first branch outside the Middle East in London. The food in the new outpost will continue to fly the flag for authentic Bahraini cuisine, including dishes like lamb and feta koftas with cherry molasses, and saffron rice cake with spiced chicken and pine nuts. Elystan Street, London, UK
The Line of March, by Pouran Jinchi, September 13 – October 21 Pouran Jinchi’s works have been featured in global exhibitions spanning New York, to London, Dubai, Jeddah, and Tokyo. This exhibition returns to a fundamental preoccupation of the artist: the parallels between art and language as avenues for communication. The exhibition’s title is taken from a painting by the 18th Century French artist Jean-Antoine Watteau, who depicted the lives of soldiers in times of war. Jinchi studied photographs of Koblenz, where architectural fragments that remain from the destruction of World War II have been woven into modern architecture and in parallel to this her notes explore how military jargon now permeates common language. The Third Line, Street 6, Al Quoz 3, Dubai, UAE
The Graduation (Claire Simon) This fly-on-the wall release documents the long and arduous admissions process of France’s most prestigious filmmaking institution, La Femis – a state-run, extremely selective and highly funded institution whose alumni include such names as François Ozon and Arnaud Desplechin. This French documentary by director Claire Simon (Gare du Nord) offers a privileged insight into the institution’s unique method of picking its pupils.
Yayoi Kusama: Infinity Mirrors, October 21 2017 - January 1 2018 The eagerly awaited exhibition of the 88-year-old artist arrives at The Broad. Yayoi Kusama: Infinity Mirrors is the first visiting special exhibition to be hosted at the contemporary art museum and will explore the celebrated Japanese artist’s famed immersive Infinity Mirror Rooms. The set-up will provide visitors with the unique opportunity to experience six of Kusama’s infinity rooms – the artist’s most iconic kaleidoscopic environments – alongside large-scale installations and key paintings, sculptures and works on paper. Highlights include her most recent edition, All the Eternal Love I Have for the Pumpkins (2016). The Broad, Los Angeles, USA
208
A RT IS T IN EX H I BIT ION
P
E
A C
E
Creative and author Zena el Khalil seeks to help her city heal and move into the future through an artistic collective that confronts the violence, pain and conflict of war. MOJEH visits the exhibition in Beirut, Lebanon.
Words by Nadine Kahil
Cover. Courtesy of Zena el Khalil
Space without the dark could not hold the stars. Ink, ash, pigment and embroidery on canvas. 90 x 90 cm. 2017
Zena el Khalil, author of Beirut, I Love You, brings together an artistic collective to explore issues of violence, pain and conflict during war. At incredible mixed-media exhibitions and workshops in Lebanon’s famed Beit Beirut, the artist seeks to provide the city with an art platform for peace and reconciliation. Displayed at an iconic space at the intersection of Damascus Street and Independence Avenue, the collection of events – running until October 27 and entitled Sacred Catastrophe: Healing Lebanon – highlights the role art has to play in mental and social reconstruction following a conflict.
Catastrophe: Healing Lebanon certainly is.
exhibition is to transform Beirut into a ‘city of
El Khalil will be working with two curators:
The exhibition, accompanied by numerous
light’, using Beit Beirut, a relic of our war or
Janine Maamari of Liban Art, based in Lebanon;
events, including workshops, conferences,
wars, to share my belief that art and culture
and Beatrice Merz of the Fondazione Merz in
performances, concerts and debates, will
can have a positive impact on society, and that
Turin, Italy. Alongside artwork and installations,
animate Beit Beirut, a symbol of the troubled
this exhibition aims to transform what was once
a series of collaborators will present a wide
history of Lebanon’s war. The building is located
a symbol of violence into a platform for peace
variety of events, lectures, talks and workshops.
on the former Green Line, on what was a ‘no-
and reconciliation.” Within this most powerful
Each and every event or piece is rooted in the
man’s land’ during the Lebanese civil war, which
of settings, the artist is bringing together
art of healing and El Khalil believes that this
served as a demarcation line dividing the city
a collective of creatives, including works,
collaboration can help turn Beit Beirut into a
into two. For the Beit Beirut exhibition, El Khalil
presentations and installations by herself and
communal space that will offer an opportunity
presents a series of paintings, sculptures, sound
others such as Ginou Choueiri, Mona Hallak,
for exchange and dialogue, as well as a platform
and video works distributed over the four floors
Dima Matta and Cliffhangers and more.
for reconciliation with one’s inner and outer self.
of the building. The works presented in the
On the first floor, El Khalil presents paintings
“The core of my work has consistently been
exhibition are the result of a working method
she makes using intricate fabrics, such as
about taking an idea or object of violence and
the artist has pursued in recent years, a process
kuffiyehs dipped in a black ink she creates
transforming it into something peaceful. To
that begins with healing ceremonies in places
from ash and pigment. The photography and
reconnect to love, in the most impossible of
that have endured violent experiences such as
videos describe the places where healing
situations. The love that is the essence of who
massacres, torture of human beings and also
ceremonies have been held, showing the state
we are; the subatomic texture of the universe,
environmental disasters.
of destruction as a result of the war. Words of
the dark matter that connects everything,” says
“This beautiful yellow war-torn building [Beit
peace, love, forgiveness and compassion are
the artist. The goal is clear, to tackle conflict,
Beirut] in Sodeco, was once home to militias
again the protagonists of ceramic and stone
violence and discord through the creation
and snipers, and is located on what was the
sculptures. A sound installation fills the entire
of something unique – and unique; Sacred
Green Line,” says El Khalil. “My aim with this
exhibition space, linking all works together.
210 Finally, on the second and third floor, there is Zena el Khalil’s performance of ‘Three Druze Women’ in and around the Beit Beirut, Lebanon. 1998. Photographed by Yarob Marouf
a single large installation, a ‘forest’ of memory in remembrance of the 17,000 people declared missing in the conflict. An intense experience, Sacred Catastrophe: Healing Lebanon is set to be heart wrenching, yet also to offer hope for the future, hope exhibited in the creative powers of the artists El Khalil has brought with her. Lebanon’s turbulent past, and present, significantly impacted El Khalil. Returning to Beirut after spending time abroad in the midNineties, the artist and city grew together. Walking the streets of Lebanon’s capital, El Khalil took in as much as she could, discovering the vibrant history of this most iconic of cities. “I was open to receive and she was ready to share. As Beirut was being rebuilt, I followed traces of her history… learnt about her past, that went back thousands of years ago. It felt as if I had been coming to Beirut for many lifetimes. Everything was new yet so familiar,” she says. It is this experience that fuels much of el Khalil’s work, her love for the city and her desire to help heal it.
Site specific paintings. (Abandoned) Grand Hotel Sawfar, Lebanon. Variable sizes. 2015
Grand Hotel Sawfar 1. Ash, ink and pigment on canvas. 240 x 145 cm. 2015
El Khalil’s paintings are site-specific and focus
who we are as individuals, as well as a society
daily Arabic vernacular. It also breaks global
on areas; places that have seen suffering.
and, through their very horror, give a glimpse
stereotypes, fuelled by ‘the war on terror’
Environmental disasters, torture, death – El
of what might be possible. It is this hope that
imposed on the Arabic language and culture.
Khalil has seen the aftermath of it all, from
inspires El Khalil, the idea that one must hit
Through global participation in painting these
destroyed family homes to the infamous Khiam
rock bottom before rising once more. “I am not
mantras, the Arabic language becomes an
Prison, the artist uses violent pasts to create
entirely sure if one person can change the world,
international instrument of peace.”
a sense of hope for the future; one where her
but I do know that we can work on becoming
The goal is clear, laudable and potentially of
art can transport the viewer into a positive
the best possible version of ourselves. If we
great benefit to this troubled city and a world that
place, one where healing, reconciliation and
each invested time to cultivate self-love and
is often wracked by despair and destruction.
love can come to the fore.
compassion, we become the change we wish
“Suffering is part of life, the same way love and
Part of this work includes the conducting
to see in the world. How can you give to others,
joy are. Pain cannot be avoided. If we embrace,
of healing ceremonies that seek to bring
if you don’t know how to give to yourself? How
accept and respect it, we learn to see pain as a
people and communities a sense of unity
can you function, if you are broken? How can
teacher and not an enemy. If there is a specific
and release from the past. “The ceremonies
you love someone if you cannot be kind to
pattern of pain in your life that seems to be on
include a process of meditation, chanting,
yourself?” Ponders El Khalil.
repeat, it is worth questioning what habits or
dancing, whirling, and a purifying fire ritual.
“I work on the ground transferring imprints,
thought patterns in your mind keep attracting
From the residual carbon ashes, I create
energy and history onto the canvas hoping to
that specific type of pain. If we can see it for
black ink that investigates the absence of
relieve the land of its pain and burden. In a final
what it truly is, without attachment, we can
light, and this is what I use to paint with.
act, I paint ‘mantras’ in Arabic that read love
learn to let go of it,” explains El Khalil. “The law
I paint with veils, symbolising the death –
(mawada), compassion (rahma), forgiveness
of attraction deems that we attract the energy
or transformation – of worldly illusions. In
(gufran) and peace (salam) and I leave them
that we give off. What we think will happen,
this process, I transmute negative energetic
fixed in these spaces. These words serve as
will indeed happen. This all goes back to the
residues in the land into love and light.”
an offering to the space and the connecting
power of thought and intentions. By repeating
It is within the context of healing and Lebanon’s
dots in my growing global mantra peace grid.
the words love, compassion, forgiveness,
violent recent past that Sacred Catastrophe:
Using the power of thought, by simply repeating
I believe we can become more loving,
Healing Lebanon sits. A 40-day celebration
these words, with positive affirmations, I
compassionate and forgiving to ourselves…
of art and creativity, the event will host myriad
believe we can collectively send healing to
and that overflow that we allow to spill out into
artists, all with the aim of creating a sense
these locations that have endured trauma,”
the world around us, that manifests through
of closure, of peace and of hope. The name
the artist tells MOJEH. “Our thoughts shape
our daily actions, that is what will change the
itself, Sacred Catastrophe: Healing Lebanon,
our realities and by repeating these words,
world and make it more loving, compassionate
hints that some horrific events can somehow
we help build a global matrix of peace and
and forgiving.” Simple concepts, but ones
hold a higher meaning, or offer a means to
reconciliation. On a more substantial level, this
that we so often forget. Sacred Catastrophe:
move forward. They offer the chance to study
work reintroduces nonviolent words back into
Healing Lebanon might just help us remember.
212
A RT IS T IN R ES I DE NC E
RESPONDING TO REVOLUTION In the run up to his highly anticipated and spellbinding solo exhibition at Tabari Artspace, MOJEH sits down with renowned artist Mohamed Abla as he reminisces about his rise to fame and subsequent success.
Sweet-scented spices, glittering jewels and generous rolls of
which led me to read about mythology and fairytales from the
supple silk were often brought westward by traders along the
East. I started researching stories from China and Kurdistan, to
Silk Road. A network of merchantry routes that were formally
Iran and Pakistan.” For over a year, Egypt’s most influential and
established during the Han Dynasty of China, this complex
established contemporary artist studied the history surrounding
labyrinth connected the East to West and, by doing so, linked
these extraordinary and bewitching countries. He soon discovered
ancient peoples in commerce. Named by the German geographer,
that the Silk Road was essential to the region’s prosperity and
geologist and traveller Ferdinand von Richthofen, who called
expansion. “The Silk Road is where cities were born, where cities
the meandering passages ‘Seidenstrasse’, luxury products
died, and so many stories were transformed into other stories,”
ranging from solid gold nuggets to bundles of wool would be
he attests. “A lot of new inventions happened because of the Silk
exchanged, both on land and overseas. The Silk Road transported
Road. Inventions in art and religion stretched from one area to
more than just merchandise, however; intellectual and cultural
another, all through the Silk Road.”
exchanges were inescapable, and had a profound impact on
Abla’s artwork seamlessly merges calligraphy and collage with
various civilisations for generations.
traditional Middle Eastern techniques and, for Mohamed Abla:
Mohamed Abla: The Silk Road showcases a selection of abstract
The Silk Road, the artist experimented with a new method of mark
artworks that explore folktales from north Africa, the Levant, Asia
making known as the Turkish Ebru. Paper floats in a tray filled
and the Indian subcontinent, most of which have been derived
with water and oil paint, before being carefully transferred onto
from Mohamed Abla’s research into the Silk Road’s dynamic
another piece of paper to create colourful marble-like patterns.
history. Thick swirls of sky-blue and acid-green paint provides
Various shapes from dyed sheets are cut and arranged into
the backdrop for age-old horsemen and damsels in distress.
compositions that resemble animals and princesses Abla imagines
The concept is largely inspired by one of the prolific artist’s
once frequented the ancient Silk Road network. “I researched
previous exhibits; entitled Tales For Reem, the display presented
techniques and sourced handmade paper and colours that I
a collection of fantasy stencil and collage-based mono-prints.
knew came from this area,” he explains. “For me, discovering a
“Three years ago, I had an exhibition about fairytales, which was
new technique or practising a new technique is like travelling or
for my granddaughter – the daughter of my son,” he explains with
exploring something new.”
palpable affection. “She was born, and I was seeking to make an
Wayfaring has long been a significant source of inspiration for Abla,
exhibition for her to tell her a story so that when she grows up I
who recently returned from exploring India, Syria and Iraq, having
can tell her, ‘This story, I made it for you.’”
gained a strong following among artists and art consumers, both
Tales For Reem is what first ignited Abla’s fascination with folktales
in the Middle East and worldwide. He travelled extensively after
and mythicism. “I started to become interested in fairytales,” he
graduating from Alexandria University’s faculty of fine arts, and
explains to MOJEH. “I started to read about different stories,
was largely able to do so thanks to his installations and paintings,
Mohamed Abla: The Silk Road at Tabari Artspace, Dubai, October 10 – November 24, 2017
Words by Annie Darling
Mohamed Abla, The Princess, 2016, mixed media on canvas, 70 x 100 cm, courtesy the artist
214
Mohamed Abla, Offering, 2016, mixed media on canvas, 70 x 100 cm, courtesy the artist
Mohamed Abla, The White Horse, 2016, mixed media on canvas, 100 x 70 cm, courtesy the artist
Mohamed Abla, The Copper City, 2016-2017, mixed media, courtesy the artist
216
Abla selects specific fairytales that he considers symbolic of the issues that have overshadowed Egypt since the 2011 revolution.
Mohamed Abla, The Happy Island, 2016-2017, mixed media, courtesy the artist
which quickly paved the way for him to exhibit internationally. “I
have to play. You have to be joyful. You have to enjoy it yourself,
got a scholarship to go to Spain from the Spanish government,”
and you have to take it easy.’ Technique is not that important.
he recalls. “I went to Spain, but after a while, I didn’t feel like
The important thing is the idea, and what’s behind that idea.”
studying anymore, so I went travelling in Europe.” For seven years
The aforementioned has always been easy for Abla, who started
in the late-Seventies and early-Eighties, Abla visited museums in
drawing as a young child. “I was in primary school,” he says,
France, Belgium and Germany, before deciding to, once again,
“and my teachers discovered this talent, and they encouraged
study art, sculpture and graphics in Vienna and Zurich.
me to continue working at it.” He talks with pride. Unlike other
It was imperative, says Abla, that while in his 20s and 30s he took
students, at a young age, Abla could already read and write, which
the time to visit other parts of the world. “During that time, we didn’t
freed up his time, allowing him to play and learn in the school’s
have the Internet and things like that,” he reminds MOJEH. “So it
art room. “I played with colours and looked through books,” he
[travel] was the only way for us to see international art. For me,
smiles, warmly. “I suppose it was just my luck. From the beginning
travel gave me the opportunity to see museums and meet other
it was clear to my teachers and I that I was going to be an artist.
artists – to see what it was like to be an artist in another country. It
It was always in my very being to study art.” The young creator,
was very, very special.” He smiles at the memory. “To meet artists
however, had to first face the disapproval of his father, who had
and see how they really are, and how they are active in their own
hoped that his son would become a military officer.
society – it influenced me greatly.” His first solo exhibition ran at
“My father didn’t like this [talent for art],” says Abla, his voice
the Hohmann Gallery in Germany, six years after his graduation
becoming serious. “He wanted me to be in the army.” He laughs
from Alexandria University. Exhibitions at Gallery Ewat, Holland,
at the thought. “When I finished high school, he sent me to army
Art Hall, Sweden, and the Egyptian Academy of Rome, Italy,
school. After one week, I escaped.” Abla’s father didn’t discover his
soon followed until he returned to Egypt for the birth of his son.
son had fled and enrolled at Alexandria University until six months
“My life after travelling to Europe started to become busy with
later, and he was furious. “He told me, ‘If you go on studying art,
more global ideas,” he says. “More ideas for myself. More
you don’t come home!’” For the following five years, Abla wasn’t
freedom, if you will. I started to address big questions in
allowed to visit his mother or sisters, but after graduation, his
life.” For decades, Abla’s work has consistently commented
father softened when he realised how talented and ambitious his
on the harsh realities associated with living in Egypt, and he
son was. “After I finished art school, I started to have exhibitions.
has documented the political changes that have taken place
People started to write about me and I became successful. He
there. Canvas paintings, photography, and newspaper cutouts
[father] became proud of me,” Abla muses, “in his own way.”
dominated several of his solo exhibitions in the mid-Nineties, all
Back to the present, and Mohamed Abla: The Silk Road is set
of which carried a significant amount of social commentary. In
to be the first showcase at Tabari Artspace under the gallery’s
1994, he subsequently won the First Prize at the Kuwait Biennial,
new name, having previously gone by Artspace Dubai. One of
followed by the Grand Prix at the Alexandria Biennale in Egypt,
the first commercial art galleries in the region, it’s dedicated to
three years later. He’s since founded several artistic institutions
the promotion of modern and contemporary Middle Eastern art
that connect artists locally and internationally, has founded the
and has enjoyed a longstanding relationship with Abla. “We’ve
Fayoum Art Centre in Egypt and established the first caricature
worked together for a long time,” he tells MOJEH. “For more
museum in the Middle East, also in Fayoum.
than 10 years!” He chuckles in disbelief at how time has flown.
More recently, Abla selects specific fairytales that he considers
“They’re very active and they have many ideas, and I really like
symbolic of the issues that have overshadowed Egypt since the
to work with them.” For Abla, Middle Eastern artwork is in a
2011 revolution. Despite these problems, for Abla, being creative in
league of it’s own. “The quality of our art is very strong and
his homeland has become much easier. “Years ago, being an artist
very real. It is real art. Art that really has to do with society,
in Egypt was difficult,” he admits, “because there were very few
with the environment. It deals with real problems.” Dubai, as
artists at that time who were really dealing with political and social
a destination, also holds a place close to the Egyptian’s heart.
aspects, or conflicts and problems.” He also argues that, during
“Dubai has brought history and so many other things to the Middle
the 20th Century, artists were discouraged from self-expression
East.” And for the month of October, it will also bring a bout
and from embracing their creativity. To be successful, he says, you
of history, and a spell of fantasy to the region’s art aficionados
must be able to enjoy the artistic process. “I say to artists, ‘You
thanks, in no small part, to Alba and his extraordinary imagination.
218
M O J EH C U LTU R E
Third Culture Kids The Middle East is a region particularly comfortable with the Third Culture Kid set-up, but what happens when you’re raised in an ever-shifting environment in which travel is home?
“The art of life lies in a constant readjustment to our
one passport. Notable TCK examples include Hollywood
surroundings,” suggests Okakura Kakuzo, one of the most
actress Uma Thurman, who was was born in Boston,
influential authors of the 20th Century. And this piece of
Massachusetts, but grew up in the Himalayan town of
art is constantly being reworked and refined by the Third
Almora Uttarakhand, India; Yoko Ono, who was born to
Culture Kids. As adults much of our understanding of
parents in the banking sector and moved from Japan
the world relies upon our childhood experiences, from
to the US during her childhood; and perhaps the most
our allergies and phobias to our favourite dishes, the
famous TCK of all, Barack Obama who, as well as being
way we greet new acquaintances, and the languages
half Kenyan, was born in Honolulu and raised in Jakarta.
we speak. The term Third Culture Kids, or TCK, was first
“My mother is from Dhaka, Bangladesh, and my father is
coined during the Fifties by American sociologist Ruth Hill
from Lebanon, New Hampshire,” says Laila Plamondon,
Useem. During her time spent as an expat in India with her
director of operations at School Choice International. “My
husband and children, Useem observed the formation of a
father’s state department career took us to the Ivory Coast,
‘third culture’ where the birth culture (first culture) and the
Thailand and finally Bangladesh, where I graduated from
new culture (second culture) result in a new, third culture.
the American International School. I went to Smith College,
Useem used the phrase to identify children, like her own,
and was interested in how multiracial, multicultural, and
who spent their formative years in places foreign to that
multilingual individuals straddle multiple worlds and forge
of their parents’ own society and the term later when
their own unique identities and communities. New York
on to encompass children who accompany their parents
City and Dhaka are my cities. My homes are wherever my
into a different culture.
families are,” she continues.
Occupying a space somewhere in between cultures and
Stories like Plamondon’s were once limited to a niche
straddling the realms of immigrant and expat, TCKs are
segment of the population that included the children of
global citizens by nature. Speaking generally, the typical
diplomats, missionaries, military workers or those involved
TCK can most likely speak multiple languages, attended
in the set-up of new cities like Abu Dhabi that started
an international school and sometimes holds more than
with core contributors during the Sixties and went on to
The Observer, photographed by Pelle Lannefors, MOJEH Issue 40
Words by Laura Beaney
220
The communities and identities of the past were understood through geographical location, but now we exist in a different world.
include the diverse spectrum of society that had flooded
of the benefit associated with a nomadic upbringing.
into the Gulf by the late Nineties. Indeed, today TCKs have
“I’m able to have a broad, global perspective on life,”
parents that cover roles in myriad industries including
explains Plamondon. “I can see past the American bubble.
teachers, construction workers, bankers, and transnational
I’m comfortable travelling abroad and visiting different
businesspeople, and while exact figures are difficult to
countries. I have a lot of respect for people from every
pinpoint, in Pico Iyer’s TedGlobal talk, “Where is Home”
country, religion, background.” Indeed, being able to see
(2013), Iyer estimates the growing tribe of people “living
the bigger picture often gives TCKs a unique perspective
in countries not their own” to be 220 million.
and greater understanding when it comes to work and
Despite their proliferation, TCKs are a segment lacking
relationships. TCKs often develop an affinity with other
narrative in popular culture which can account for the
cultures without having full ownership of it. “You become
feeling of unease that tends to arise when the harmless
a sort of cultural hybrid,” says El-Ashmawi. “You balance
and all too common question, “where are you from?” crops
between two realities, juggle between languages and
up. “Often there’s a feeling of being ‘undefined’,” says
accents, beliefs and customs. It may feel incompatible,
Perryhan El-Ashmawi, a TCK who was raised by Egyptian
but you grow adaptable to different environments.”
parents in Bahrain. “My idea of home is dependent on
Cities like Hong Kong, Dubai, and Singapore have served
where my parents are based. My family lived in Bahrain
as TCK hubs in recent years, but will they continue to be
for almost 30 years, and then we recently moved to the
relevant to this segment of society in the future? Perhaps
UAE. And while my childhood memories are all based in
not. “There will definitely be an increase in children with
Bahrain, for some reason when someone asks me where
mixed backgrounds (race, ethnicity, language, etc.), but
I’m from, I naturally answer Egypt, although I’ve never lived
I don’t know if there will be an increase in TCKs with
there.” Identity confusion, and at times isolation can be
the technical definition,” says Plamondon. “I don’t think
common traits of the TCKs who are often required to bid
large corporations are sending expats abroad like they
farewell to school friends and family members and start
used to and technology has made it much easier to work
afresh at an early age.
remotely.” The communities and identities of the past
A posterchild for TCKs today, during his presidency
were understood through geographical location, but
Obama was both applauded and antagonised for his
now we exist in a different world. Technology and the
accepting worldly view and unassigned origins. But
reshaping of the traditional workplace might render expat
increased cultural empathy and the ability to transition
cities as useless, which means that our understanding
easily between religious and societal customs are all part
of the role of the geographical border is due an update.
222
M O J EH I NTER V I E W
FIVE MINUTES WITH AMY SMILOVIC
Interview by Mary Keenan, images courtesy of Tibi, Céline, Bobbi Brown and La Prairie, photographed by Silver Screen Collection at Getty
The designer behind cult American label Tibi reveals her artistic inspirations, beauty essentials and go-to labels exclusively to MOJEH.
jeans and sneakers modern and serves as the perfect topper for when the temperatures cool. I also love a blazer over a slip dress, or even to a dinner party when you’re wearing something a bit more special underneath. My own personal style is… Relaxed and easy with a minimal spin. I dress with a neutral base and may add a touch of colour here and there. I tend to go towards bold earrings or shoes since I like my clothing to be quite anonymous. I definitely have a uniform that includes a wide range of menswear blazers, Levi’s and sweatshirts. The most cherished pieces in my wardrobe are… My Levi’s, Céline earrings (I collect them each season), a black Prada dress from my rehearsal dinner and an oddly out of character Saint Laurent tuxedo blazer with a Hawaiian motif beaded on the lapel. The Tibi woman… Has an ease about her, with a clean and somewhat minimal approach to styling. There is a consistent sense of modernness An average day for me starts…
with a feminine edge.
At 6:30am when I get up to make breakfast for my kids. Two cups of coffee later, I’m on the 8.00am train to Grand Central
The most valuable lesson that I’ve learned…
Station, where I spend my commute sketching on my iPad. By
Is that I must stay true to myself, because having the confidence
9:30am I’m in the office with a third cup of coffee in my hand.
to deliver a point of view is critical for a designer. In this business, many different people and entities will have opinions
Art as an inspiration…
on what your point of view should be, but after 20 years in
I have always been passionate about art. My father is an artist
this business, I know that I need to believe in my own vision.
and I’ve been painting since I was seven or eight-years-old, which is probably why art in all of its various forms regularly
My go-to brands are…
serves as an origin of inspiration for my work. Day-to-day, I
Céline, Stella McCartney, Marni, Maison Margiela, JW
visit museums, bookshops and just walk the streets. Honestly,
Anderson, and Loewe.
inspiration resides anywhere and everywhere; the key is to be open to finding it.
Two of my style icons… Charlotte Rampling and Patti Smith.
A woman’s life… Was my source of inspiration for autumn/winter17. I wanted
The items currently in my beauty bag include…
to convey how important it is to have pieces that can take
Bobbi Brown lotions for my skin, SPF cream and foundation
you from the beginning of your day, to your office and to the
and La Prairie’s cream blush.
other places you frequent in daily life. In short, my goal was to create clothing that looks amazing in real life.
The thing I love most about my job… The talented, creative people I get to work with every day.
The key piece from my collection this season is… The strong shoulder blazer. The blazer has always been a
What is your biggest luxury…
staple piece in my wardrobe. The plaid version makes a pair of
Sketching with my kids.
224
LOST IN TIME We look back in order to move forward, taking inspiration from past decades. Saint Laurent draws on the 70s with round, retro shades, while Gucci’s Alessandro Michele looks towards myths and legends with embroidered dragon motifs.
Shoes, GUCCI | sunglasses, SAINT LAURENT | desk drawers, NADA DEBS at Cities Design, Art & Lifestyle Store
Photographed by Borna Ahadi, styled by Sophie Pasztor
F I N A L N OTE
SUBSCRIBE TO
MOJEH MAGAZINE HAVE THE VERY BEST IN STYLE DELIVERED DIRECTLY TO YOU. Call or email us at +971 4 553 9049 and subs@mojeh.com